The Valley Table 86, Summer 2019

T H E M A G A Z I N E O F H U D S O N VA L L E Y F A R M S , F O O D A N D C U I S I N E NUMBER 86 JUNE–AUGUST 2019 VALLEYTABLE.COM

Apples, too, it turns out, express a sense of place— what wine lovers call terroir.

—Eric Asimov, New York Times

JUNE 7–16

HUDSON VA L L E Y

Hudson Valley is cider country, and Cider Week comes just in time for summer cider sipping season.

Set amidst the beauty of the river valley and its orchards, Cider Week is an annual tradition celebrating the quality and variety of the region’s signature agricultural product.

Highlight events include: Destination Ciders Kickoff Event at Angry Orchard, saturday, june 8 Glynwood x Gramercy: Cider Dinner on the Farm, friday, june 14 Boutique Wine & Spirits Hudson Valley Cider Tasting, saturday, june 15 4th Annual Father’s Day Pig Roast at Brooklyn Cider House, sunday, june 16 Visit cider making orchards to try Destination Ciders (new and limited release ciders) during Cider Week. www.CiderWeekHV.com

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number 86 june–august 2019

19 featured articles 19 hudson valley hotel scene, act 2

Four recently renovated vintage hotels are redefining what true Hudson Valley hospitality can be. by Robin Cherry

28 craft can art

Aluminum cans are back! And local craft producers are putting exemplary art on the outside of their cans as well as on the inside. photos by Meghan Spiro

36 farming for people

More and more farmers are finding that bringing the public onto the farm is not only good for the people, it can be really good for business, too. by Jeff Storey

70 coming home with peperoni di senise

A highly localized chile is prized in Italy, but an American visitor finds a surprising connection that brings it all home (in more ways than one). by Eliot Gee

PHOTO BY SUSAN BAKER

departments 11 good stuff 16 openings 45 farms, food & markets 50 eating by the season 55 locally grown 60 directory 67 up close 72 last call

recipes 52 Rumtopf; Cherry Pie; Sweet cherry salsa; Sour cherry salsa; Sour cherries and dumplings

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EDITORS LETTER

second acts If you stick around long enough, you get to do things twice. If you’re lucky, you get to correct mistakes you made the first time around, you get to improve on the things you did right and to thank those you’ve forgotten.

This issue is about second acts, second chances, second attempts. We didn’t plan it that way, but something must have been in the air, because just about every article we scheduled has resurrection, renovation, restoration or rebirth underlying it.

For one reason or another, the farmers Keith Stewart interviewed for his column are transitioning from farming to, well, something else. Each has a different rationale, but collectively they give us an intimate look at what it means to be a farmer today, the issues that must be dealt with and the sometimes difficult decisions that must be made. Straight from the horse’s mouth, as they say.

Jeff Storey takes a similarly long, hard look at the changing face of agritourism in the Hudson Valley and the impact it has on the region. Some wellknown farmers—Ray Bradley, Pete Taliaferro, Guy Jones and Cheryl Rogowski among them—have been hosting on-farm dinners for years. (And what farmer worth his manure didn’t have hayrides, pumpkin-rolling contests or a corn maze on his or her fall schedule?) But the idea of bringing lots of people onto the farm for education or entertainment as a way of making significant money is catching on, big time. There are drawbacks, but it’s become an important part of the agricultural and tourism economies here.

And there’s a genuine renaissance taking place among the hotels and highend inns in the valley. The region has been a favorite of travelers practically since it was discovered, and there was a time when an overnight stay almost anywhere was a special occasion. Everybody, especially the hoteliers, knew it. But the fast-food, interstate highway, drive-up window culture of the motorized 1950s seemed to put convenience and speed ahead of comfort. There’s a new wave of hospitality afoot, however, that’s aiming to do things the old-fashioned way—to truly treat travelers as guests. Four restored Golden Age hotels that follow that creed are spotlighted here.

One of our youngest and most-traveled writers, Eliot Gee, stops at a bar in Italy on a snowy night, has a bite to eat and a beer, and finds himself on an intellectual adventure that resurrects childhood memories of Warwick and solves a long-standing puzzle. Meanwhile, veteran photojournalist David Handschuh goes upstate to sample the fare at a reborn Catskill Mountain resort. Henny Youngman is nowhere in sight.

—JN

ON THE COVER: Table setting at The Corner, the restaurant at Hotel Tivoli (see page 19).

PHOTO BY SUSAN BAKER

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THE VALLEY TABLE THE MAGAZINE OF HUDSON VALLEY FARMS, FOOD AND CUISINE THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. 380 MAIN STREET, SUITE 202 BEACON, NY 12508 (845) 765-2600 valleytable.com hudsonvalleyrestaurantweek.com NUMBER 86 JUNE – AUGUST 2019 PUBLISHER Janet Crawshaw janetc@valleytable.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jerry Novesky jerryn@valleytable.com Managing Director Jennifer Bannan jennifer@valleytable.com Content Coordinator Lesley Rozycki Marketing Coordinator Marcella Micillo Office Administrator Meghan Merry meghan@valleytable.com Graphic Design & Production Honest Creative Advertising sales@valleytable.com Contributors to this issue Patrice Athanasidy David Handschuh Susan Baker Meghan Spiro Robin Cherry Keith Stewart Leslie Coons Bostian Jeff Storey Eliot Gee THE VALLEY TABLE is exclusively devoted to Hudson Valley agriculture, food and cuisine. We support sustainable agricultural practices and efforts to strengthen the links among regional producers, marketers, restaurateurs and consumers. We urge you to patronize businesses that feature Hudson Valley products and to support initiatives that benefit regional agriculture and related efforts.

Letters to the editor regarding magazine content are welcome and will be published as space permits.

Letters should be mailed to the address above, or emailed to editor@valleytable.com. To be considered for publication, letters must be signed.

THE VALLEY TABLE is published four times a year (March, June, Sept and Dec). Distribution is free at selected sites throughout the Hudson Valley or by subscription. Subscriptions are $20 per year. To subscribe, mail a check or money order payable to The Valley Table, 380 Main St., Suite 202, Beacon, NY 12508 or visit valleytable.com.

COPYRIGHT © 2019, THE VALLEY TABLE, INC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, mechanical or electronic, without written permission of the publishers. Advertisements designed by The Valley Table are copyrighted and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission.

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8 North Broadway, Nyack | 845.353.1200 | 8NorthBroadway.com

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adams fairacre farms

From farm, to farmstand, to super farm market...we’re celebrating our centennial throughout 2019!

Go to adamsfarms.com for promotions, historic information and more!

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GOOD STUFF

CIDER FOR SUMMER There will be plenty to party about during this year’s Cider Week Hudson Valley, a 10-day celebration that kicks off Friday, June 7 and runs through Sunday, June 16. New York, which already leads the nation in cider production, is in the midst of a boom in craft cider, and more people are discovering and enjoying the beverage, especially in the Hudson Valley.

Cider Week Hudson Valley connects the region’s cider makers and apple growers to craft beverage enthusiasts through a variety of coordinated, beverage-focused events and orchard-based interactions.

Returning this year will be Destination Ciders of the Hudson Valley. The top cider makers in the region will produce limited edition ciders available only at the cideries and at the Cider Week kickoff event, Saturday, June 8, at Angry Orchard’s Walden Cider House (admission $5). The bottles and barrels of these special ciders celebrate the versatility of apples and cider, the creativity of the cider makers and cider’s rapid rise to potentially become the signature beverage of the Hudson Valley.

The 10-day cider festival wraps ups Sunday, June 16, with a party and pay-as-you-go feast of suckling pig, wood-fired pizza, and cider from more than 10 Hudson Valley cideries at Twin Star Orchard, New Paltz.

Fifteen Hudson Valley cideries are participating in Hudson Valley Cider Week 2019. Public events are free

and visitors are invited to cool down with a crisp and refreshing cider and cider-friendly food available for purchase. Participating cider makers include: Angry Orchard Innovation Cider House (Walden) Brooklyn Cider House (New Paltz) Doc's Draft Hard Cider (Warwick) Graft Cider (Newburgh) Hardscrabble Cider (North Salem) Kettleborough Cider House (New Paltz) Kings Highway Fine Cider (Millbrook) Little Apple Cidery (Hillsdale) Metal House Cider (Esopus) Naked Flock Hard Cider (Warwick) Nine Pin Cider Works (Albany) Orchard Hill Cider Mill (New Hampton) Pennings Farm Cidery (Warwick) Slyboro Cider House (Granville) South Bridge Cider (Hudson) Treasury Cider (Hopewell Junction) Wayside Cider (Andes) Westwind Orchard (Accord) Launched by Glynwood in 2010, Cider Week is produced by the New York Cider Association to celebrate New York’s orchard-based ciders and highlight their diversity and exceptional quality. For more information, updated schedule of events and a full overview of the festivities, go to ciderweekhv.com.

—VT

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LIFE IS JUST A GLASS OF CHERRIES

GREENER MICROGREENS Michael McDonough’s Tongore Brook Farm, a small, family-owned farm in Stone Ridge (Ulster County) is as green as they come. Solar and geothermal energy power the greenhouse where certified organic microgreens, including pea shoots, adzuki bean sprouts, wheatgrass and sunshoots grow year ‘round. The nutrient-rich greens, grown in specialized soil blends, are fed with purified rainwater before being hand-picked and brought to market.

In addition to marketing individual microgreens, McDonough is constantly creating new and custom mixes like Ayurvedic Mix and Holiday Mix. The journalist-turned-farmer uses the mixes to create an edible narrative on the shelves of the local stores he stocks.

McDonough currently is working with the New York State Department of Ag and Markets to develop non-CBD/non-THC certified organic hemp microgreens, as well as organic hemp CBD products. Other new goods from the farm include a line of unblended and unfiltered single-forest organic maple products, including maple water and maple syrup. The farm will soon launch a new line of pesto using only New York State-sourced organic ingredients.

Tongore Brook Farm’s microgreens can be found at retail locations throughout the region, including Adams Fairacre Farms, Mother Earth’s Storehouse, Nature’s Pantry, Sunflower Natural and Beacon Natural Market.

—LR Tongore Brook Farm Stone Ridge (646) 256-4497; tongorebrook.com

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From pies and jams to cherry balsamic short ribs—cherry season inspires creativity in commercial and home kitchens alike throughout the Hudson Valley. The taste of those succulent orbs just says “get ready for summer.” The folks at Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery (Orange County) have helped extend the season by crafting an alternative to the more traditional cherry indulgences like pies or various cooking sauces. Think of their award-winning Sour Cherry Cordial as cherry season in a bottle.

In 2002, Warwick Valley Winery opened the American Fruits Distillery on site and began crafting fruit cordials in the style of French and German fruit brandies—even using an imported German copper still. The Sour Cherry Cordial ($14.99/375ml) is an infusion of a distilled spirit with Finger Lakes-sourced Montmorency cherries. The cherries impart a beautiful ruby color and evoke a ripe cherry and cinnamon nose from the cordial.

The cordial proves cherries are as versatile in drinks as they are in the kitchen. For a bright summer refresher, the Sour Cherry Cordial can be combined with prosecco for a Sour Cherry Royale, or added to a Collins glass with ice and lemon-lime soda for an elevated Dirty Shirley. Poured over vanilla ice cream, it mimics that summertime staple, cherry pie à la mode. It’s a perfect way to extend the fleeting cherry season, no oven necessary.

—MM Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com

EVENTS

GREAT HUDSON RIVER REVIVAL Croton Point Park, Croton-on-Hudson Jun 15-16 This music and environmental fest features seven sustainably powered stages with diverse music, dance, storytelling and family-oriented programming as well as a juried Handcrafters Village, Green Living Expo, Working Waterfront with small boat exhibits and rides, Artisanal Food & Farm Market and environmental education exhibits. clearwaterfestival.org HUDSON VALLEY WINE AND CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz June 15 Sip wine and sample chocolates from across the Hudson Valley. With over 80 vendors of wine, craft beer, cider, honey, olive oil and more. Food trucks will be on site for snacks to purchase.

Must be 21+. Tickets: $10-$30. hvwineandchocolate.com

SAINTLY CHEESE Up in Stephentown (Rensselaer County), a small but mighty team of ambitious cheesemakers (make that cheeselovers) had dreams of someday owning a creamery of their own. And by golly, they did it.

Willy and Shaleena Bridgham opened Four Fat Fowl five years ago, intending to produce a world-class, triple-cream cheese.

The husband-wife team have been involved in cheesemaking since 2001, when they worked at Old Chatham Sheepherding Company.

Willy went on to make cheese at Maple Hill Creamery (Kinderhook) and Coach Farm (Pine Plains); Shaleena focused on distribution and marketing. “After many, many years of talking and dreaming about how much we would love to have our own creamery, we started making cheese in 2014,” Shaleena says. “We would take family vacations and spend days on end talking about what style cheese we would make. How would we finance it? Were we even capable of taking on such a huge project? We carried on these conversations for about five years.”

The cheese, dubbed St. Stephen, is made from jersey cow milk and cream sourced from Dutch Hollow Farm in Stuyvesant. Four Fat Fowl recently increased production at a new location and added a second cheese to the roster: Inagada Ricotta, made from fresh jersey milk and cream and the whey from St. Stephen production. St. Stephen is available in fine cheese outlets nation- and regionwide ($12.99/7.5 ounces), or online at igourmet.com.

—MM

TASTE OF SUMMER WALK Glynwood Center for Food & Farming, Cold Spring July 21 An insider’s look at Glynwood Center.

See animals grazing, vegetables growing.

Learn about the impacts of a changing climate on food production, how it Glynwood is addressing this on the farm. glynwood.org BLUEBERRY FESTIVAL Village of Ellenville August 10 The Shawangunk Ridge was once a reknowned blueberry destination. This street fest celebrates Ellenville’s historic blueberry industry with all things blueberry—pies, muffins,goodies, crafts, and fun. ewcoc.com/blueberry-festival HUDSON VALLEY RIB FEST Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz August 16-18 Enjoy the excitement as 50+ teams compete for the best BBQ ribs. Live music, craft vendors, and, of course, finger-lickin’ ribs over three days. hudsonvalleyribfest.org UPDATES: VALLEYTABLE.COM

Four Fat Fowl 473 State Rt 43, Stephentown (518) 733-5230; fourfatfowl.com

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NOT-SO-GOOD STUFF

RIVER WOES A proposed US Army Corps of Engineers project that calls for the installation of massive, in-water storm surge barriers would have “catastrophic consequences” for the environment and the economy of the Hudson Valley, according to a recent report by the nonprofit environmental group American Rivers. The outlook is so dire that the organization has ranked the Hudson second on its “America’s Most Endangered Rivers” list (behind only New Mexico’s Gila River), a move designed to increase public awareness and rally protest against the project.

The concrete structures, which look something like giant highway lane barriers, would be strategically placed in the river to protect certain areas from the kind of flooding spurred by Hurricane Sandy in 2012.

But the project will permanently degrade the ecology of the river, which supplies critical habitat for several endangered species and is at the core of the valley’s $5.5 billion tourism industry, the group says. For more information, visit endangeredrivers.americanrivers.org.

If that’s not enough bad news for you, the mood is not good among those who fought to get General Electric to clean up the PCB contamination that led to some sections of the river being declared Superfund sites.

Though the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation claims the cleanup is incomplete, the federal Environmental Protection Agency issued a “certificate of completion” in April that says GE’s mandated work is done. The decision was tempered somewhat by the EPA’s declaration that more study is needed regarding the long-term effectiveness of the cleanup effort, conceding that more cleanup might be ordered pending more study. The state claims parts of the river still pose health threats and reportedly plans to sue the EPA. —VT

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COUNTY FAIR TIME There’s one summertime tradition you don’t want to miss. County Fairs bring entertainment and education together in a showplace for the region’s farmers and agricultural heritage. There’s something for everyone from demolition derbies to tractor pulls, sheep shearing to pig racing, contests for pie baking and eating, jam making and cow milking. Live music, amusement rides, mid-way games and just plain fun. Pack up the family and prepare yourself for a full day (and night) at the Hudson Valley’s renowned county fairs.

July 18–28 Orange County Fair Orange County Fairgrounds, Middletown orangecountyfair.com July 26–28 Putnam County 4-H Fair Putnam County Veteran Memorial Park, Carmel putnam.cce.cornell.edu/putnam-county-fair July 31–August 5 Ulster County Fair Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz ulstercountyfair.com August 20–25 Dutchess County Fair Dutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck dutchessfair.com August 28–September 2 Columbia County Fair Columbia County Fairgrounds, Chatham columbiafair.com

BOOKS

TRUTH AND CONSEQUENCES There are plenty of lessons to be learned from artist-turned-farmer Andy Brennan’s forthcoming Uncultivated: Wild Apples, Real Cider, and the Complicated Art of Making a Living (Chelsea Green, 285 pages, $24.95 hardcover). Inspiring, intriguing, enlightening, at times verging on fanatical, the book chronicles the genesis, growth and philosophical underpinnings of Aaron Burr Cider, Brennan’s small farm cidery in Wurtsboro (Sullivan County).

What makes Brennan’s tale different from the average “How I Gave Up Everything and Went Back to the Land” story is that he remains steadfast and independent throughout.

“Compromise” in his view equals “sellout,” and neither word is in his dictionary.

Brennan’s first attempt at establishing a conventional orchard failed miserably. He refocused his efforts after literally stumbling upon some “wild” apple trees growing in the edge of the Catskills forest in Sullivan County.

A thorough researcher, he outlines the history of apples in this country, beginning with the Pilgrims’ apple plantings from seeds 200 years before Johnny Appleseed took his walk. Brennan develops a single-minded objective: to show that genuine, authentic American cider (a worldclass drink) was, and still can be, produced from apples grown from seed and uncultivated (rather

‘ Nothing is worse than a sellout.’ than from the hybridized and grafted stock now universally marketed and so recognizable in orchards here and elsewhere).

Modern commercial apples are hybrids, their genetics carefully guided and developed to emphasize certain characteristics like size, shape, color and other factors. The genetic characteristics of “real” apples, grown from seed, are unpredictable—each fruit contains five seeds, and each seed contains a different mix of the parents’ genes; basically, each seed will produce a different variety of apple. Some will not survive, of course, but the ultimate result of apple seed planting would be a mind-boggling number of apple varieties—tens of thousands—in just a few generations. Each tree would adapt as

best it could to the environment; each fruit might be shaped differently, but, more importantly, each would taste unique.

These are the apples that populated the region into the eighteenth century, descended from the seeds planted by the Pilgrims. They were even crudely cultivated by some Native American groups.

Brennan remains both an independent businessman and an independent thinker.

Uncultivated remains part history, part philosophical text, part memoir, and it offers plenty of insight into the reasoning behind almost every decision Brennan makes on the way to becoming the first commercial producer of wild-apple hard cider. (The difficulty finding, gathering and hauling these apples limits his production to only 1,500 gallons a year, if that.) Brennan cogently argues that, for various reasons, only wild apples can legitimately exhibit the terroir of the region.

Ultimately, Uncultivated is a book about Brennan’s life, not just his cidery. The philosophy that guides his foraging treks also guides his search for investors and customers and business methods. If there is a guiding slogan that could be posted above the door in his barn, it might be a quote from the book: “Nothing is worse than a sellout.” —JN

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OPENINGS

Lucky Dragon

Howard and Chris Jacobs, team behiond The Amsterdam in Rhinebeck, have spread their good fortune to a second location in town.

Lucky Dragon, their “farm-to-chopsticks” restaurant, opened in mid-April. The Amsterdam’s Executive Chef Alex Burger brings his experience traveling, living and cooking throughout Asia and San Francisco’s Chinatown to the restaurant, alongside Chef Angelyne Schofield, a CIA grad who will step into the executive chef role at Lucky Dragon.

In the location formerly occupied by Catch 38 and The Local, Lucky Dragon draws its inspiration from the classic Chinese restaurants of 1970s Toronto. Lucky Dragon’s nineteenthcentury wooden bar combines with authentic Chinese décor, a rich, deep color palette (dark greens, reds and golds) and custom lighting to create an atmosphere that makes for a memorable dining experience.

Enjoy classic Chinese food, of course, like soup dumplings, crab Rangoon, General Tso’s chicken and Peking Duck, all prepared with locally sourced produce. For drinks, choose from beers from China and Asia, sake, cocktails and wines by the glass and bottle. A dim sum brunch is offered on weekends. Open 7 days, late night every night spring through fall.

38 E Market St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-2214 getluckydragon.com

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PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY LUCKY DRAGON

Hudson’s Mill Tavern 55 W Railroad Ave, Garnerville (845) 429-5700 hudsonsmillny.com History is at the heart of Rockland County’s newest restaurant, Hudson’s Mill Tavern, in Garnerville. Executive Chef Peter Muller and his partners, Dan O'Kane and Joseph Sparta, embarked on a renovation project to bring the building, a former textile mill at the Garner Arts Center, back to its earlier glory. The work, which took more than three years to complete, included restoring all the original woodwork and removing 20 layers of paint to reveal the Haverstraw Clay brick walls underneath.

The county’s history and multi-ethnic heritage and diversity also are reflected in the menu. Italian, Asian, American and Latino dishes, all utilizing locally sourced ingredients, are offered, which means diners can savor everything from pasta agilo e olio to steak sliders with bacon jam and apple pie (made with apples from The Orchards of Conklin in nearby Pomona)—and wash it all down with a craft beer from a rotating menu of local brews on tap.

Eugene’s 112 Main St, Port Chester (914) 481-5529 eugenesdiner.com Billed as “a feel-good, diner-inspired restaurant and bar serving a new take on classic diner fare,” Eugene’s in Port Chester is ready to serve up burgers, shakes, pancakes and caviar the way you remember them. It is that kind of twist David DiBari, owner of The Cookery, The Parlor, The Rare Bit and Dough Nation, brings to his newest venture. Named after his grandfather, the diner memorializes the diners DiBari and his grandfather visited after church on Sundays. Recalling the diner as a focal point for the community, DiBari invites customers to think of Eugene’s the same way.

The decor is ‘70s vintage Woolworth’s —wood paneling included—as is the menu. From fried bologna sandwiches and rotisserie Spam to moldedJello desserts and display-case pies, DiBari’s nostalgic playfulness pervades everything. A groovy cocktail menu featuring far out names like the Flamingo Beach (gin, grapefruit and aperol) and local beers on tap complete the experience. Eugene’s is not open for breakfast, but you can order up breakfast all day. Opens 5pm Tue–Thu; 11:30am Fri-Sun. Closed Mon.

The Barking Goose Bookstore Bar & Cafe 16 North Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 674-9808 barkinggoosebookbar.com The Barking Goose in Newburgh is ready to make you feel at home. Owners and Newburgh residents Jenifer Flynn and Lani Ricozzi enjoyed their time at Rough Draft in Kingston and decided Newburgh would be the perfect place to create a “nice, cozy little hang-out spot,” says Flynn, an English lit major in college, who sees the venture as a way to merge her love of food and books.

You can order a local brew in the bar, then hop to the adjoining bookstore, where big couches beg you to kick back, relax and read while you munch on great fries, pork sliders or quiche. Flynn says book clubs and writers’ groups are planned, and writers such as Ken Foster, author of The Dogs Who Found Me and City of Dogs, have visited to sign books, meet fans and have a beer. Whether to relax with friends and sip wine after work or browse books with a beer in hand, Flynn and Ricozzi invite you to “Come, hang out.” Tue–Thu, Sun 11–9; Fri, Sat to 10. Closed Mon.

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PEONY VODKA Fine Dining in a Historic Tavern & Former Speakeasy

perfect alone or in a brilliant cocktail!

Outdoor Garden Patio Open For Summer!

Now offering Happy Hour at the bar, 3–6PM Also available at the Bar: New Bar Menu Available All Day

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30 Plank Rd, Newburgh, NY • (845) 562-5031 (Just off of 9W at I-84)

Tuesday through Sunday for Dinner, open at 3pm Call for Reservations & Other Information

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PeonyVodka.com

hudson valley hotel scene, act 2

by robin cherry photos by susan baker june

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T

H E H U D S O N V A L L E Y H A S N ’ T A L W AY S H A D T H E

most robust hotel scene, but, contrary to what F. Scott Fitzgerald said (“There are no second acts in American lives”), there

appears to be a renaissance of fine hotels that even locals will want to experience. Second acts are all the rage in the Hudson Valley, especially at four Mid-Hudson region inns that have been restored to their Golden Age glory. Each of the inns described here also is blessed with an innovative chef who both appreciates and elevates the bounty of the Hudson Valley.

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HOTEL TIVOLI Overlooking the marshy flats that mark the upper Hudson is the two-street village of Tivoli (Dutchess County). In the early twentieth century, the little village was home to a shirtwaist factory, a gristmill and The Madalin House hotel, a three-story hotel built in 1910 after the original hotel, built in 1839, was destroyed in a fire during the 1909 Fulton Centenary Celebration. The Madalin served as the center of Tivoli’s social scene through much of the twentieth century—even Eleanor Roosevelt stopped by after tennis at the nearby Edgewood Club.

Today, Tivoli is again anchored by the hotel, though the Madalin, closed in 2012, is now known as the Hotel Tivoli. The building, not so much restored as reimagined by New York artists Brice and Helen Marden, has been stripped of its dark, Victorian-style furnishings and brightened up with contemporary light fixtures and artwork by the couple’s friends and contemporaries, including Robert Rauschenberg, Julian Schnabel and Francesco Clemente. Brice even created his own paint color—Brice Gray—for use throughout the hotel. (Its bright, lively tone comes from the cadmium orange mixed in.) The restaurant, The Corner, opens to an outdoor wraparound porch, a major draw in warmer weather, but the airy dining room is equally light and enchanting. The dreary, old wooden bar was replaced with a show-stopping white marble top streaked with fuchsia and purple.

The Mardens brought in Chef Devon Gilroy, formerly at New York’s Chanterelle and A Voce, to run the restaurant. Gilroy’s interest in Moroccan cuisine is evident in several menu items, including the shrimp tagine with green olives, paprika, cumin, leeks and cilantro. And because he also owns Tivoli Mushrooms, diners at The Corner get to sample exotic fungi in several of Gilroy’s dishes, including the Phoenix mushroom risotto. At the bar, the cocktail recipes are credited to Gilroy’s father, whose East Village bar, Employees Only, has been voted to The World’s 50 Best Bars list for 10 years running.

(Tip: Try the Rosehill, a cocktail named for the Mardens’ Hudson Valley estate and made with Pisco Barsol, elderflower liqueur, fresh ginger and apples.)

Hotel Tivoli 53 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2100; hoteltivoli.org

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Artists, antique dealers and architecture aficionados from New York City have discovered once-gritty Hudson.

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WM. FARMER AND SONS Upriver a bit, Hudson (Columbia County) got its start in the eighteenth century as a whaling center and trading port and went on to become a major industrial center for cotton, bricks and cement. It also was infamous for the size of its red-light district in the 1920s and ‘30s: Fifteen brothels employing as many as 75 prostitutes were kept busy serving primarily bigwig Albany politicos. More recently, artists, antiques dealers and architecture aficionados from New York City have discovered once-gritty Hudson, and it has become one of the region’s most popular and captivating cities.

At one time or another, several cities along the river have been dubbed “Brooklyn North,” but the cliche seems particularly appropriate when applied to Hudson. So it’s not surprising that a couple of former Brooklynites—William Kirby Farmer, a CIA-trained chef, and his wife Kristan Keck, a set designer—bought a nineteenthcentury South Front Street building and transformed it into Wm. Farmer and Sons, an upscale inn/restaurant.

The seven “rustic-chic” rooms in the main building are supplemented by four eloquent guest rooms and a private garden patio in the Hudson Merchant House next door. For longer stays and families, there are four contemporary, apartment-style suites in another building.

The Wm. Farmer and Sons restaurant is bright and comfortable, with a welcoming fireplace and contemporary lighting contrasting with the exposed brick walls and dark wood. Chairs, salvaged from the US Naval Academy in Annapolis, include built-in shelves under the seats (specifically for the cadets’ hats). The kitchen is known for oysters and meats as well as midwesternand southern-influenced family specialties.

The Country Ham Board, for example, is inspired by Kirby’s grandfather, an Ozark banker, who cured hams to give to his best clients; his grandmother Abigail’s buttermilk fried chicken is served with biscuits and sawmill gravy. At the bar, aficionados can enjoy libations based on recipes created

by Sasha Petraske, the late founder of New York’s iconic cocktail bar, Milk and Honey.

Wm. Farmer & Sons 20 S Front St, Hudson (518) 928-1636; wmfarmerandsons.com

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STEWART HOUSE Across the river over the Rip Van Winkle Bridge directly west of Hudson is the sleepy village of Athens (Greene County), where a stunning, Italianate-style former boarding house built in 1883 still graces the waterfront. Now dubbed The Stewart House, the hotel and restaurant reopened in 2018 after dramatic restoration by Lois and Lon Ballinger, former owners of the Webster Hall nightclub in New York’s East Village. (Movie buffs may recognize the Athens building—it portrayed an Albany flophouse in the 1988 movie Ironweed, starring Jack Nicholson and Meryl Streep, based on Albany writer William Kennedy’s 1983 novel. Streep’s character died in a corner room.) Thanks to the renovation, there will be no more flophouse roles in the building’s future. The hotel has nine casually elegant guest rooms, all but two of which have large windows with magnificent river views.

The ca. Tavern 1883 consists of an Art Deco bar and dining room. Murals in both the bar and the dining room were originally hand-painted 25 years ago by well-known muralist Nora Johnson; the Ballingers brought her back to liven them up, and today, they shine again. During the summer, the tavern is reserved for private events and the public action moves to The River Grill, an outdoor space surrounded by weeping willows on the banks of the river. The River Grill has its own dock for people who want to arrive by kayak. There’s a bar and a wood-fired grill where Chef Bob Turner will serve burgers and other grilled fare from Wednesday to Sunday.

Turner also has a robust entertainment program planned, including local music acts performing under the stars. Monday is movie night—food will be provided by local food trucks. On Tuesdays, Turner will showcase a different pop-up menu each week. Any cuisine that begins with T is fair game—Turner mentions Taco, Thai, Thali (Indian) and Toko, a Japanese popup inspired by his Japanese pastry chef.

But don’t forget Turkish, Taiwanese and Trinidadian, or, for a real challenge, try Tajikistan, Timor-Leste or Tokelau.

Stewart House 2 N Water St, Athens (518) 444-8317; stewarthouse.com

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During the summer, the public action moves to an outdoor space surrounded by weeping willows on the banks of the river.

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The approach to restoring the historic property was to do as little as necessary. The result is both comfortable and elegant.

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photos these pages by paul barbera courtesy troutbeck

TROUTBECK comfortable and elegant, with touches of unexpected Once home to iron mines and steelworks, the tiny town whimsy (like pink vinyl bar stools that belly up to a of Amenia (Dutchess County) also is home to Troutbeck, a copper bar, and a ballroom lit by contemporary coppermagnificent 18th-century estate that re-opened in late 2017 and-iron chandeliers). Spread across 45 acres, the estate’s following masterful restoration by world-renowned designer ample rest and recreation spaces include tennis courts, a Alexandra Champalimaud, the vision behind the renovation pool and a fairytale-worthy stone bridge. The enchanting, of such iconic properties as The Dorchester (London) and circa 1916 two-tiered walled garden was built to Raffles (Singapore). Champalimaud completed the Troutbeck house Spingarn’s clematis collection. Visitors who find project alongside her son, Anthony (a partner in a firm that themselves tuckered out from playing tennis, swimming or specializes in restoring buildings of “natural, cultural or walking the grounds can nap in one of the 14 hammocks historical significance”) and his wife, Charlie. Keeping it all that dot the property. in the family, Alexandra’s husband, private equity investor Four buildings form the main complex that is Troutbeck.

Bruce Schnitzer, supervised the landscape design.

Troutbeck originally was the residence of the Benton family, The stone Manor House includes 17 guest rooms, along with the restaurant and bar, a seductive wood-paneled who hosted many well-known nineteenth-century literary library with a commanding limestone fireplace, a figures there, including Mark Twain, Ralph Waldo Emerson sunroom and the ballroom. The eighteenth-century and Henry David Thoreau. The second owners, professor, Century Lodge, originally a tavern, has four bedrooms poet and civil rights activist Joel Spingarn and his wife and and can be rented as a cottage. It is joined by a common fellow activist Amy, also had a prestigious guest list of topspace to the more contemporary Century House; Garden tier, early twentieth century cultural and political notables, House rooms include patios or balconies with views of including Sinclair Lewis, Ernest Hemingway, President the garden.

Theodore Roosevelt, and their longtime friend, Supreme During the summer, the Pool Grill serves a wickedly Court Justice Thurgood Marshall. The estate was a nexus for good lobster roll with house-made crisps. the early civil rights movement—two seminal civil rights conferences were held there, and it is the official birthplace Troutbeck of the NAACP, which Spingarn chaired from 1913 to 1919.

515 Leedsville Rd, Amenia The Champlimauds' approach to restoring the historic property was to do as little as necessary. The result is both (518) 828-1635; troutbeck.com

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photos by meghan spiro

T

H E E X P L O S I O N I N L O CA L C R A F T

beverages in the past few years has had ramifications in other industries, as well. Farmers, coopers, packagers and distributors are busy keeping up with demands from emerging producers.

Currently, more and more brewers and cider makers are marketing their products in aluminum cans, which not only allows for a fresher product, it also helps retail visibility and makes it easier to reach a wider customer base than if distribution was limited to kegs or even bottles.

Beer cans, introduced in 1935, originally were made of steel (yes, they rusted), and they had an image problem from the git-go: Canned beer was generally regarded as lower-quality and cheaper than the bottled varieties. But that began to change in 2001, when a Colorado craft brewery began canning its beer. The word “trendy” is nothing if not a definition of how craft brewers now consider aluminum cans.

The use of cans has opened up opportunities for another segment of the community to hop on the craft beverage bandwagon: the artists and designers whose

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talents and skills are showcased on those gleaming aluminum cylinders that now crowd the shelves of supermarkets, convenience stores and specialty outlets throughout the region.

Aside from the textbook requirement of brand identity and recognition, the art and design of an aluminum beverage can must meet several challenges not usually present in other print or display media.

The can usually sits on a shelf surrounded by dozens of similar objects, and it must be recognizable from various distances and angles. The can’s cylindrical shape means the design must accommodate 360˚ views. And there is the medium itself: Should the design utilize the gleaming metallic aluminum of the can or cover it up?

Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Hudson Valley Brewing Company and Graft Cidery are regional producers who put “craft” both inside and outside of their canned beer and cider. Their design and artistic philosophies represent different (and unique and successful) approaches to meeting the challenges presented by the medium. Have a look (and have a sip or two while you’re at it).

—JN

AS REPORTED BY MARCELLA MICILLO

INDUSTRIAL ARTS BREWING CO. My background in brewing science comes in handy in the development of the labels—it becomes a challenge to translate heady technical concepts into something the average consumer can relate to. The market has changed substantially even in the three short years that we've been open. Now, in addition to standing out on a shelf with 20 other brands, it needs to look good on social media.

For our core beers, my inspiration was the various and detailed blueprints of our build-out. I was so fascinated by the level of detail; they also reflected our commitment to state-of-the-art technology that many small breweries can only dream of.

The idea behind the metallic is to emphasize the package—we want customers to embrace drinking their beer from a can, which best preserves the lush hop notes we work so hard to capture. The colors reference the ethos of each brand. For example, Metric Pils is a bright spring green, representing the crisp, herbal notes in our classic unfiltered lager. Wrench is a play on the color referred to in pop culture as "millennial pink." Both the color and the beer are aligned in their awareness of their popularity but also their irresistible draw.

The Landscapes series is designed to highlight New York agriculture, feature the work of a prominent local artist, benefit various nonprofit organizations and demonstrate our love of traditional lagers. We worked with artist Ursula Schneider, who has lived in the Hudson Valley for decades. She captures a lot of what we want to convey: the importance of place and to pay attention to what each season has to offer. I wanted to preserve her paintings as much as possible on the label so I kept it simple and clean.

—Sofia Barbaresco, General Manager Industrial Arts Brewing Company 55 W Railroad Ave #25, Garnerville (845) 942-8776; industrialartsbrewing.com

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GRAFT CIDERY The Graft art style [by artist/illustrator Caleb Luke Lin] is colorful, lighthearted and genderneutral—we wanted to break from tradition and bring a “cool factor” to label design. There were too many cider labels with your grandfather or bearded hipsters on them.

We have three different labels in the season, one each month, each part of the story arc of The Book of Nomad, a seasonally rotating short story series. Our core cider lines follow the travels of Nomad, an explorer, through a fantasy 1920s-style world. His exploration parallels drinkers trying our wild and flavorful sour ciders.

Outside of our core lineup, we have three high-end lines, each with its own art theme.

Cloud City is our hop/Dreamsicle cider line, made from a rotating lineup of fruit, hops, as well as vanilla and milk sugar. The labels are set in sci-fi cities that are part of the Cloud Empire, featured in The Book of Nomad. Shared Universe is our collaborative cider series— we work with other breweries, wineries and cideries from around the world. This has seen the creation of a dual-labeled cider-wine hybrid that we did with Revel Cider out of Ontario, and an epic Newburgh Brewery character fighting Godzilla in the Hudson River. The labels are no holds barred, anything goes.

—Kyle Sherrer, Owner Graft Cidery 218 Ann St, Newburgh (410) 967-1926; graftcidery.com

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HUDSON VALLEY BREWERY We're interested in using our product as a medium for telling the story of our lives, both as individuals and as a company. My partners Michael Renganeschi and John Anthony Gargiulo and I bring new concepts—usually inspired by books we've read, spanning mythology, fantasy, science fiction, and so on—to our art department meeting each week. Once we've workshopped these ideas, our illustrator, Evan M. Cohen, brings them to life. His illustrations are applied to a broad range of products, including cans and bottles, glassware, clothing and whatever other cool stuff our graphic designer can imagine.

Once we've got the products in house, our marketing director and photographer put together a roll-out plan for social media, pictures for Instagram, the blog for our website, etc. Our general manager is involved throughout this process, facilitating the development of special projects and making sure everything comes together the right way and on schedule.

Even though we've all got separate roles and responsibilities, our process is very much collaborative. It wouldn't be nearly as special or compelling if we weren't working together as a team.

—Jason Synan, Co-owner Hudson Valley Brewery 7 Main St, Beacon (845) 218-9156; hudsonvalleybrewery.com

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farming

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for

people by jeff storey

PHOTO BY SCOTT D. SNELL / SDS IMAGERY

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A

S A C H I L D I N I TA LY, F A B I O C H I Z Z O L A

went to the mountains each summer with his father, who cultivated a small plot of land there. “I never paid much attention to what he was doing,” Chizzola says. He grew up, became a photographer and moved to the United States; in 2002, he and his wife, fashion stylist Laura Ferrara, purchased a weekend home in the Ulster County hamlet of Accord that reminded them of Italy. The purchase included a 32-acre abandoned apple orchard that was in bad shape. Chizzola couldn’t find anyone to rent and revive the orchard, so he learned pruning and other farm skills with the help of neighbors. “I was so naïve—I made a lot of mistakes,” he admits. “I still make mistakes.”

It’s no mistake, nor is it an accident, that now, Chizzola’s successful Westwind Orchard caters to an eclectic clientele of long-time local residents, second homeowners and those transitioning to local status. It offers pick-your-own apples and other fruit in season, homemade wood-fired pizza, cider and Italian dishes in a new tasting room, open to the public Thursdays through Sundays, starting in June. Monday nights will feature Rosendale’s Dojo Dance Company for a Monday Tango and Salsa night.

Westwind Orchard exemplifies the growing trend of “agritourism” in the Hudson Valley. Falling right in step with the European tradition of farmhouse hospitality, agritourism combines elements of tourism against a backdrop of agriculture—farmers open their gates and provide onsite education, entertainment and/or recreation to the general public. An increasing number of farmers are benefitting from these new and increased revenue streams. They are entertaining children, selling their products directly to visitors, offering farm dinners, tastings and concerts and renting out their scenic properties for weddings and other private events.

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Tourism directors agree that agriculture is a major tourist draw in the region.

Blooming Hill Farm, near Monroe (Orange County), established in the 1980s by a former lawyer, sells produce to restaurants in the Hudson Valley, Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey—but it also will stage more than 30 weddings this year, and serve weekend dinners and a Sunday brunch in a new restaurant and kitchen. This August, Chaseholm Farm, a dairy farm and creamery in Pine Plains (Dutchess County), will host for the fourth time Huichica East, the local incarnation of a popular California music-food-wine boutique festival to go along with its own, homegrown burger nights.

Some farms even rent out rooms to guests who are eager to get a closer look at how their food is made. At Kinderhook Farm (Columbia County), for example, Lee Ranney has been renting rooms for up to four adults and two children during summer and fall since 2011. “They’re very nice,” Ranney says of his guests. “They don’t expect a lounge or concierge service.” Some return year after year, and the renovated FarmStay barn on his 1,200-acre farm is booked solid again this year. Participation in farm chores is optional.

On-farm weddings, concerts and other events are becoming more frequent and common as more farmers look for innovative ways to satisfy visitors’ thirst for a unique experience.

New York State Agriculture Commissioner Richard Ball credits the local food movement with stimulating tourists’ interest in local agriculture. “We’re seeing more and more of it every year—almost every day,” Ball notes. “Everybody wants to know what their grandmother knew.”

PHOTOS THESE PAGES COURTESY FABIO CHIZZOLA, WESTWIND ORCHARD

The 826 New York farmers who reported engaging in agritourism and offering recreation to the public in the 2017 Census of Agriculture, released in April, earned income of $36,847,000, up from $31,250,000 in 2012 and $17,985,000 in 2007.

Tourism directors in three major mid-Hudson counties agree that agriculture is a major tourist draw in the region.

Visitors “crave a farm experience,” claims Orange County Tourism Director Amanda Dana; her Ulster County counterpart, Rick Remsnyder, says that agritourism is increasingly an “economic engine” for the region. Dutchess Tourism Director Mary Kay Vrba observes that “the chefs are into it,” and predicts, “it will continue for a while.”

In a 2015 survey and report by Glynwood, a nonprofit organization that promotes sustainable agriculture, community action and economic development projects, concluded that the Hudson Valley has the potential to be a leader in agritourism. But the group, based in Cold Spring (Putnam County), argued that “the paradigm for agritourism in the Hudson Valley is shifting away from ‘agri-tainment’ to more participatory experiences that are more directly related to the actual work of food production.”

“People want to know where their food comes from,” says Megan Larmer, regional food program director at Glynwood, who notes that the organization has experienced “an uptick” in attendance for its public programs.

Other nonprofits, like the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, in Pocantico Hills (Westchester County),

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the Rockland Farm Alliance, and Sprout Creek Farm, near Poughkeepsie (Dutchess County), have been using working farms as a lens through which visitors can view the food system and reconnect with the state’s agricultural legacy. Their public tours, school programs and workshops are tapping into the same growing interest as the commercial farmers’.

In fact, the renowned education and research programs and public events at Stone Barns draw visitors from around the globe as well as from down the street. Stone Barns Senior Communications Manager Jessica Galen says 25,000 people attend its public programs annually, while 300 young farmers participate in its hands-on training programs.

This summer, the center will work with 120 teachers from around the country who want to teach its high school-level food studies course. Galen says the goal of the program is to “inspire people to reckon more critically with the food system, to take ownership in what they eat.” She stresses that the type of programs offered by Stone Barns make it less an agritourism site and more of a “farm-based education” center.

The increasing interest in tourism many farmers are showing dovetails with the explosive growth in the craft beverage industry—wineries, distilleries, breweries and cideries—promoted by changes in state laws and regulations. The number of farm-based beverage manufacturers in New York has grown by 174 percent since 2012, with 359 farm wineries, 232 farm breweries,

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140 farm distilleries and 42 farm cideries now operating statewide. As of a year ago, 106 of these producers were based in the mid-Hudson region. Many farmers with on-farm production businesses (and those nearby) see an added economic stimulus from regulations that require using a specified threshold of state-grown ingredients in their products.

Hillrock Estate Distillery in Ancram (Columbia County), for example, makes premium whiskey with rye and barley grown on its own 100 acres. In Orange County, the Westtown Brew Works produces small-batch beer with its own hops and ingredients provided by neighboring farms; Orange County Distillery is located on a fifth-generation farm in the rich Black Dirt region, which provides the required ingredients for its vodka, gin and whiskey.

One of Westwind’s neighbors in Accord is the Arrowood Farm Brewery, which has enjoyed steady growth since it opened in 2013. “There have been a lot of challenges, but the response has been pretty incredible,” says cofounder Blake Arrowood, a former English teacher. Arrowood Farm grows all the required hops and grain for its beer, which can be sampled at its tasting room in New Paltz. Arrowood says his goal is to tap the “rich terroir” of the Hudson Valley, “brewing the best beer that expresses the times and the people.”

Visitors really want to have a full day's experience.

According to local tourism promoters, as of midApril there were 25 craft beverage producers in Orange County (both farm and non-farm), 35 in Ulster, 22 in Dutchess and 15 in Columbia. New operations seem to appear almost weekly, and many existing businesses are expanding. The craft beverage industry is a “huge” tourism draw, Dana stresses; Columbia County Tourism Administrator Ann Cooper says it’s the “hot spot” in her county, too.

Interest is so high that Orange County developed a free computer app to help visitors plan craft beverage tours. Private “craft beverage” bus tours also are becoming available.

The plethora of farms and orchards in the region where local residents can pick apples and vegetables and otherwise experience life on a farm clearly fits the definition of “agriculture” for most people (as do the growing number of on-farm distilleries and breweries).

While corn mazes and hayrides also fit the general profile, some question what relationship activities like jumping pillows, miniature golf, petting zoos, playgrounds, trivia

PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY DUTCHESS TOURISM, HARLEM VALLEY HOMESTEAD

competitions, field trips, concerts and other activities have with agriculture. (By these standards, the 1969 Woodstock Festival, held on Max Yasgur’s Farm in Bethel, could be considered the mother of all “agritourism” events.)

“You have to do stuff to get people to come out of their houses, away from all the binge TV we’re competing with,” Sharon Soons, chief operating officer of Soons Orchards in New Hampton (Orange County), says. Soons runs a monthly farm dinner on site, and Soons Orchard is host to the Orchard Hill Cider Mill and its tasting room. Soons is skeptical about mixing animals with food and scorns the “jumping, bouncy pillows” as “not farming.”

David DuBois, who bought a defunct orchard in Highland 11 years ago and turned it into DuBois Farms, a successful pick-your-own business that employs 40 people and draws 4,000 people a day during the busy season, agrees. “I don’t want a carnival,” he notes.

Clearly, no hard and straight rules govern the agritourism market. Peter Hall, who presides over both Apple Dave’s Orchards in Warwick (where Labor Day marks the start of the season), and Apple Dave’s Distillery, where he has begun making applejack, declares that orchard owners “all do things differently.” He notes that the scenic vistas on his property recently have been attracting “hipsters” from Brooklyn and Kingston, yet his website announces that the orchards are only 20 minutes from Woodbury Common Premium Outlets (New York’s busiest tourist attraction).

PHOTO BY ETHAN HARRISON, STONE BARNS

Barton Orchards in Poughquag (Dutchess County) quit the wholesale produce market 27 years ago to concentrate on pick-your-own produce and family entertainment.

Last year, the orchard attracted a couple of hundred thousand visitors, according to Peter Barton, who touts the business on its website as “more than just a farm; we are a destination.” With this in mind, Barton, recipient of a Business Excellence Award from the Think Dutchess Alliance for Business, has come up with a number of activities to keep people busy on the farm, including hayrides, a 5-acre corn maze, music, and an elaborate ropes-and-ladders obstacle course called “Tree Top Adventure.” Why? Because when you pick apples, “you’re done in 20 minutes,” Barton says, “but visitors really want to have a full day’s experience.”

At Josh Morgenthau’s 270-acre Fishkill Farms in Hopewell Junction (Dutchess County) 5,000 people a day—almost 100,000 yearly—line up just to pick the farm’s fruits and vegetables in season. According to a recent survey of Fishkill Farms’ customers, visitors regard the farm’s growing practices (organic for vegetables, eco-certified for fruits), produce quality and variety and customer service as the most important reasons for their visits, less so food and activities. Individual respondents applauded the fact that the farm wasn’t “commercialized” or an “amusement park for kids.”

While a new tasting room for the farm’s cidery, a new porch, kitchen (with a pizza oven), restrooms and larger

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farm store are currently in the works, the working farm is still subject to the vagaries of the weather and climate change. The operations have been hit by drought and fire, and last spring, a microburst (akin to a tornado) destroyed 2,500 apple trees. “Extreme weather events have caused more devastation in the past seven years to our orchard than ever before,” Morgenthau notes.

And, despite the economic boost that agritourism has brought to many locations in the region, it apparently is possible to have too much of good thing. Increasing

Legislation approved in Albany last year aims to protect farmers from liability. emphasis by some local farms on hosting private events, particularly weddings, has brought complaints from neighbors about noise and traffic. The town of Warwick amended its zoning laws in February to reduce allowable noise levels at outdoor farm events, clarify the number of outdoor events permitted at any single location and specify the time for “lights out.”

In Montgomery (Orange County), town officials had welcomed the Angry Orchard Hard Cider Research and Development Center at the former Crist Bros. Orchard,

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but they were nonplused by the crowds that lined up for the festivals, tastings and workshops offered by the cidery, owned by the Boston Beer Company, maker of Samuel Adams beer. (According to Dana, Angry Orchard is one of the top three most popular agritourism sites in Orange County—the other two are Brotherhood Winery, in Washingtonville, and Warwick Valley Winery and Distillery, in Warwick.)

Nonetheless, Jamie Corrao, general manager at Angry Orchard, said in a statement that the company has plans to expand its parking lot by approximately 140 spots at the former site of the Walden Lanes Bowling Center, and “there are also future plans to rework the inside space of the cidery in order to best accommodate our guests.”

For its part, the state has taken steps to facilitate agritourism and to help farmers and tourists alike have a successful (and nonlitigious) experience. Legislation approved in Albany last year—the so-called “Safety in Agricultural Tourism Act”—aims to protect farmers from liability for the “inherent risk” of visitors stepping onto a farm and to curb farmers’ high insurance costs. Ball says the new laws “will take the shackles off farmers.”

The legislation requires farmers to post warning signs in conspicuous locations about the potential risks of on-farm activities and the responsibilities of visitors; to distribute written information to visitors directing them to the signs; to post directional signs; to take reasonable care to prevent foreseeable risks; and to provide safety training for employees.

In all, agritourism has become a bona fide and significant segment of the mid-Hudson economy, and will likely continues as long as agriculture remains important in the region. While some exploit the concept strictly for profit, for many more it is simply a continuation of a tradition that extends as far back as farming itself. 

PHOTO COURTESY BROOKLYN CIDER HOUSE, TWIN STAR ORCHARD

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FA R M S , F O O D & M A R K E T S

VEGETABLES

what's in season?

With the warmer weather, the farmers' markets return to communities across the Hudson Valley, bringing the season's freshest fruits and vegetables as well as locally produced meats, eggs, breads, cheeses, milk and artisanal goodies each week. From the first of the season’s greens, garlic scapes and rhubarb, to the arrival of berries and the first ripe tomatoes, each week there’s something new and delicious to taste. From asparagus to zucchini, apples to watermelon, here's a guide to what you’ll find at the market as summer unfolds. It's time to welcome back the farmers!

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Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Asparagus Beans, Dry Beans, Lima Beans, Snap Beets Beet Greens Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Collard Greens Corn Cucumbers Eggplant Garlic Herbs Kale Leeks Lettuce Mustard Greens Onions Parsnips Peas Peppers Potatoes Pumpkins Radishes Rhubarb Spinach Squash, Summer Squash, Winter Swiss Chard Tomatoes Turnips Turnip Greens Zucchini

FRUITS Apples Blackberries Blueberries Cantalopes Cherries Currants Grapes Peaches Pears Plums Prunes Raspberries Strawberries Watermelon

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HUDSON VALLEY FARMERS MARKETS 2019

HUDSON VALLEY FARMERS MARKETS 2019 COLUMBIA COUNTY Chatham Farmers & Makers Market Village Green, Route 66 Main Street May 24–Oct 4; Fri 4-7 facebook.com/ chathamfarmersandmakersmarket/ Copake Hillsdale Roeliff Jansen Park, 9140 Rt 22 May 25–Oct 26; Sat 10–1 copakehillsdalefarmersmarket.com Hudson Farmers Market 6th St & Columbia April 27–Nov 23; Sat 9–1 hudsonfarmersmarketny.com Kinderhook Village Green, corner Broad & Chatham St May 11–Oct 12; Sat 8:30–12:30 kinderhookfarmersmarket.com New Lebanon Farmers Market 516 State Route 20/Columbia Pike June 2–Oct27; Sun 10–2 facebook.com/newlebanonfarmersmarket

DUTCHESS COUNTY

Arlington Vassar Alumni Lawn May 30–Oct 31; Thu 3–7 arlingtonhasit.org/events/farmers-market/ Beacon Veterans Pl between Main St & Henry May–Nov; Sun 10–3 beaconfarmersmarket.org Big Rock Community Farms 6031 Rt 82 Year-round; Mon & Thu 9-6:30; Fri 8–7; Sat– Sun 8–6 bigrockmarketny.com Fishkill Main St Plaza, 1004 Main St May 30–Oct 31; Thu 11:30–6:30 Hyde Park 4390 Rt 9 Jun 1–Oct 28; Sat 9–2 hydeparkfarmersmarket.org

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Middletown Cottage St at Railroad Ave Jun 1–Oct 26; Sat 8–1 facebook.com/MiddletownFarmersMarket

Millerton 6 Duchess Ave Year–round; Sat 10–2 millertonfarmersmarket.org

Monroe Commuter parking lot, Millpond Park Jun 3–Nov 18; Sun 9–2 villageofmonroe.org/farmersmarket.html

Hudson Valley Farmers’ Market Greig Farm, 229 Pitcher Ln Year–round; Sat 10–3 greigfarm.com/hudson-valley-farmers-market. html

Newburgh Downing Park, corner of Carpenter & 3rd St. July 13–Oct 19; Sat 10–2 facebook.com/DowningParkFarmersMarket

Pawling Charles Colman Blvd Jun 15–Oct 12; Sat 9–1 pawlingfarmersmarket.org Poughkeepsie Waterfront Market 75 N Water St Jun 5–Oct 2; Mon 3–6 facebook.com/POKWaterfrontMarket Rhinebeck 61 E Market St May 5–Dec 28; Sun 10–2 rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com Taste NY Store at Todd Hill 4640 Taconic State Pky N (Poughkeepsie) May 25–Oct12; Fri 2–6 ccedutchess.org/taste-ny-at-todd-hill/todd-hillfarmers-market

Amenia 4988 Rt 22 Year-round; May–Oct; Fri 3–7:30 ameniafarmersmarket.com

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Millbrook 3263 Franklin Ave May 25–Oct 26; Sat 9–1 millbrooknyfarmersmarket.com

2019

GREENE COUNTY Catskill Dutchman’s Landing Park Jun 7–Sept 13; Fri 4–7 catskillcommunitycenter.org/catskill-farmersmarket

ORANGE COUNTY

Newburgh Mall Parking lot, 1401 Rt 300 July 13–Oct 19; Sat 10–2 facebook.com/newburghmall Pine Bush 62 Main St May 25–Oct 12; Sat 9–2 Facebook.com/Pine-Bush-Farmers-Market Port Jervis Farmers’ Market Park, corner Pike St & Hammond Jun 22–Oct 12; Sat 10–2 pjfarmmarket.com Tuxedo Tuxedo Metro North station, 240 Rt 17 Jun 15–Oct 26; Sat 9–2 tuxedofarmersmarket.com Warwick Valley Parking lot, corner South & Bank St May 12–Nov 24; Sun 9–2 warwickvalleyfarmersmarket.org West Point Town of Highlands Municipal parking lot, West Point Highway Jun 16–Oct 27; Sun 9–2 facebook.com/WPTOHfarmersmarket

PUTNAM COUNTY

Cornwall Town Hall lawn, 183 Main St June 1–Sept 30; Wed 11–5 cornwallny.gov/departments/farmers-market

Brewster 15 Mount Ebo Rd S May–Oct; Sun 10–2, brewsterfarmersmarket.com

Florida 190 N Main St Jun 11–Oct 29; Tue 10–4 facebook.com/floridanyfarmersmarket

Cold Spring Boscobel house and gardens, 1601 Rt 9D May 4–Oct; Sat 8:30–1:30 csfarmmarket.org

Goshen Farmers Village Square; Main St & S Church May 24–Nov 1; Fri 10–5 facebook.com/Goshen-Farmers-Market

Putnam Valley 729 Peekskill Hollow Rd Jun –Aug 31; Fri 3–6:30 putnamvalleyresidents.com

FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS

Taste our award winning gin!

ROCKLAND COUNTY

From grain to glass on-site

Haverstraw Village Hall, 40 New Main St & Maple Ave Jun–Oct ; Sun 9–1 voh-ny.com/faq

Your cocktails will thank you

Nyack Main St parking lot Apr–Dec; Thu 8–2 nyackchamber.org/nyack-farmers-market

Come experience the flavor

Piermont M&T Bank parking lot, 527 Piermont Ave Apr 28–Nov 24; Sun 10–3 facebook.com/piermontfm

Stoutridge Distillery 10 Ann Kaley Lane Marlboro, NY

www.stoutridge.com

GLORIE FARM WINERY

We grow grapes.

We make wine.

Wines you know, and Wines you should meet.

“We GROW Glorie Wine.”

Tasting and Sales:

Weekends April through December.

40 Mountain Rd. Marlboro, NY 12542

845.236.3265

gloriewine.com

SULLIVAN COUNTY Callicoon Callicoon Creek Park, Dorrer Dr May–Nov; Sun 11–2 callicoonfarmersmarket.org Liberty Creekside Park, 119 N. Main St. June 14–Sept 13; Fri 3–6 catskillmountainkeeper.org/mountainkeeper_ markets Narrowsburg 7 Erie Ave, behind Narrowsburg Union May 18–Oct 26; Sat 10–1 narrowsburgfarmersmarket.org Rock Hill 223 Rock Hill Dr June 1–Sept 28; Sat 10–1 rockhillfarmersmarket.com Roscoe Niforatos Field, Rt 206 May 13–Oct 7; Sun 10–2 facebook.com/Roscoe-Farmers-Market

ULSTER COUNTY Gardiner Gardiner Common May 29–Oct 30; Wed 3–6 gardinermarket.org

SHOP NY Local Farms, Local Food, Local Flavor

Taconic Pkwy, 10 miles north of I-84 1 mile south of Route 55 Mon, Wed, Thu and Sat: 8AM–6PM Fri: 8AM–8PM and Sun: 9AM–7PM, Closed Tue

Outdoor Farmers’ Market Fridays: May 25 - Oct 13 2PM–6PM

Kingston Wall St between Main St & John St May 11–Nov 23; Sat 9–2 kingstonfarmersmarket.org Kingston YMCA Farm Project, 507 Broadway May 16-Oct 31; Thu 3:30–6 kingstonymcafarmproject.org Milton Cluett Schantz Park, 1801–1805 Rt 9W Jun 22–Oct 19; Sat 9–2 hhvfarmersmarket.com

@tasteny tastenytoddhill.com | 845-849-0247

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HUDSON VALLEY FARMERS MARKETS 2019 Rosendale 408 Main St behind Rosendale Theatre Jun–Oct; Sun 10–2 rosendalefarmersmarketny.com

“Baked & Grown, Just Like Home”

Saugerties 115 Main St May 25-Oct 26; Sat 10–2 saugertiesfarmersmarket.com Woodstock 6 Maple Ln May 29–Oct 16; Wed 3:30–dusk woodstockfarmfestival.org

WESTCHESTER COUNTY

Jones Farm & Country Store

Clearwaters Distinctive Gifts

Grandma Phoebe’s Kitchen

Clearwaters Gallery & Custom Framing

Homegrown Seasonal Produce Local & Gourmet Foods

Bronxville Stone Place at Paxton Ave May 11–Nov 23; Sat 8:30–1 bronxvillefarmersmarket.com

Fine Gifts, Home Decor, Toys, Ladies Clothing & Accessories

Homemade Baked Goods Fudge & Gift Baskets Breakfast & Lunch Cafe

Chappaqua Chappaqua Train Station May 11–Nov; Sat 8:30–1 chappaquafarmersmarket.org

Archival Framing

Artwork by Terri A. Clearwater

190 Angola Rd. Cornwall, NY 845-534-4445(P) • 845-534-4471(F) www.JonesFarmInc.com Mon & Wed - Fri: 8-6 • Sat & Sun: 8-5 Closed Tuesdays

Hartsdale E Hartsdale Ave Metro North station Jun–Nov; Sat 8–4 Hastings 7 Maple Ave Jun–Nov; Sat 8:30–1:30 hastingsfarmersmarket.org

Organic Berries, Vegetables & Eco-Certified Tree Fruit

Irvington Main St school parking lot May–Nov; Sun 9–1:30 irvmkt.org

Strawberries

Blueberries & Cherries

Katonah John Jay Homestead, 400 Jay St May 11–Nov 23; Sat 10–2 johnjayhomestead.org

Blackberries Raspberries & Peaches Apples Veggies

Katonah Muscoot Farm, 51 Rt 100 May 12–Oct 27; Sat 9:30–2:30 muscootfarm.org

Find out what’s picking: www.fishkillfarms.com 9 Fishkill Farm Rd. Hopewell Jct. NY, 12533 | (845)897-4377

Larchmont Chatsworth Ave Metro North parking deck Apr 27–Dec 28; Sat 8:30–1 downtoearthmarkets.com New Rochelle North Ave at Sicard Ave Jun 7–Nov 22; Fri 9–2 downtoearthmarkets.com New Rochelle Downtown 1 Library Plaza June–Oct; Sat 9–2 facebook.com/newrochellegrandmarket Ossining Corner Spring St & Main May 11–December; Sat 9–1 downtoearthmarkets.com

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The Valley Table sets a place for foodies, bringing together the farmers, producers, purveyors and consumers who revel in our one-of-a-kind food experience.

Subscribe to our newsletter to stay up to date on all things food, farms and cuisine in the Hudson Valley!

Peekskill - sent email 4/18 Bank St between Park St & Main May–Nov; Sat 8–2 facebook.com/peekskillfarmersmarket 48

we’re farmers, we’re foodies

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2019

VALLEYTABLE.COM/NEWSLETTER   

DAILY, 9 AM - 6 PM FRESH DONUTS MADE DAILY!

FARMS, FOOD & MARKETS Pleasantville Memorial Plaza next to Metro North station April 6–Nov 23; Sat 8:30–1 pleasantvillefarmersmarket.org

“Premium fresh organic food grown and produced mostly local...

Truly a superstore that includes selling raw milk from cows you can thank in person...” aresh j.

Pound Ridge 22 Westchester Ave Sat year-round; hours by appt (914) 764-3006 facebook.com/PoundRidgeOrganics

ANOTHER 5-STAR GOOGLE REVIEW!

Rye Theodore Fremd Ave parking lot May 12–Dec 8; Sun 8:30–2 downtoearthmarkets.com

O R G A N I C • B I O DY N A M I C ® • LO C A L • D E L I C I O U S

CRAFT BEER & HARD CIDER | FRESH BAKED ORGANIC BURGER + HOTDOG BUNS ANIMAL WELFARE APPROVED BEEF, PORK + CHICKEN FOR YOUR SUMMER BBQ & SO MUCH MORE! PFM_HVT_2019.qxp_5 4/4/19 11:08 AM Page 1

O P E N D A I LY 7 : 3 0 A M - 7 P M • H V F S T O R E . O R G

Pawling Farmers Market Grass-fed Beef & Lamb Pastured Pork Raised naturally on Warwick’s LOWLAND FARM

On the Pawling Green Charles Colman Blvd pawlingfarmersmarket.org

South Salem 1202 Rt 35 Year-round; Sat 9–2 gossettbrothers.com/wp/farmers-market Tarrytown/Sleepy Hollow Patriots Park, N Broadway May 25–Nov; Sat 8:30–2 tashfarmersmarket.org

Worth Getting Up For!

Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

June 15 - October 12

Scarsdale Boniface Circle Apr–Nov; Thu 11–5 facebook.com/scarsdalefarmersmarket

On-Farm Store: Open Saturdays 10 - 3

White Plains Court St between Martine Ave & Main St Apr 24–Nov 27; Wed 8–4, May 18-Nov; Sat 8–2 facebook.com/pg/Friends-of-White-PlainsFarmers-Market Yonkers Historic site park across from Metro North train station Jun–Oct; Fri 12–4 groundworkhv.org

UPDATES: VALLEYTABLE.COM

Enter at 32 Prices Switch Road (845) 461-3459 info@lowlandfarm.com Warwick, NY 10990

Ten family farms located in Columbia, Dutchess & Ulster Counties

Natural, Local, Fresh Premium Quality Dairy

No other milk comes close!

(845) 226-3065 www.hudsonvalleyfresh.com 

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EATING BY THE SEASON

cherries by leslie coons bostian

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I

N E A R LY S U M M E R — A

season brimming with fresh, green and delicious foods—there is one fruit that is, well, the cherry on top.

There are hundreds of cherry varieties, mostly of the Prunus cerasus (sour or tart) or Prunus avium (sweet) species. Both of these species are believed to have originated in eastern Europe and western Asia, and both thrive in much of the Hudson Valley.

Cherry season in the Hudson Valley varies slightly, depending, of course, on the weather, where the farm is located and the cherry variety, but it generally begins in early June and can last through the end of July for some varieties. A number of farms offer pick-your-own options in season.

Cherries are not suited for extended storage; they should be enjoyed fresh.

For long-term enjoyment, they can be frozen or made into preserves.

According to the USDA, a cup of fresh cherries (without pits) has fewer than 100 calories and contains antioxidants and phytochemicals, vitamins A and C, other nutrients and fiber. Some traditional remedies include sour cherry juice to reduce inflammation, improve digestion, and help with insomnia and weight loss, though no clinical verification of these claims could be found.

Sweet cherries are best for eating fresh. A few chopped or sliced sweet cherries tossed into a chicken or ham salad will give the flavor a delightful twist. They are tasty when added to sandwiches as a substitute for tomatoes (especially with ham or turkey; ditto for cheese). Try adding fresh sweet cherries to a mixture of jalapeños, onion, cilantro, olive oil (optional), lime or orange juice to make a springtime salsa (see recipe) for dipping with corn- or pita chips or to top chicken or veggie burgers on the grill.

PHOTOS THESE PAGES COURTESY FISHKILL FARMS

COME AND GET ’EM Depending on weather conditions, sweet red cherry picking usually begins mid- to late-June and runs to mid-July.

Sour cherries begin to ripen early- to mid-July. Here are some farms that offer pick-your-own cherries; check with the individual farm websites for updates on this year’s crop.

Fishkill Farms 9 Fishkill Farm Rd, Hopewell Jct (845) 897-4377; fishkillfarms.com Sweet red cherries, golden sweet cherries, Hungarian tart cherries, Montmorency.

Fix Brothers Farm 215 White Birch Rd, Hudson (518) 828-4401; fixbrosfruitfarm.com Sweet cherries, red sour cherries, black sour cherries.

Lawrence Farms Orchards 306 Frozen Ridge Rd, Newburgh (845) 562-4268 Sweet and sour cherries.

Prospect Hill Orchards 340 Milton Tpk, Milton 845-795-2383; prospecthillorchards.com Sweet red cherries, golden sweet cherries, sour cherries.

Red sour cherries, a light red variety that includes the well-known Montmorency, are popular for baking in pies, muffins, turnovers and cakes, or turned into jellies, jams and chutneys.

Dark sour or black sour cherries also make delicious jelly, jam, salsa and chutney, but they’re especially rewarding steeped in alcohol, then used for topping desserts or adding to drinks. Perhaps the most famous cherry for this use is the Morello.

(This cherry is not really a variety, but rather a subgroup of sour cherries with very dark skin and dark red juice and flesh.) They can be found in fine food stores preserved in glass.

Extending the storage life of cherries is easy: Just freeze them. (Wash, pit and arrange them in a single layer on a tray or cookie sheet lined with parchment or wax paper and place in a freezer. No blanching is necessary.

After the cherries are frozen solid, they should be stored in a freezer bag or other freezer-safe container.) Frozen cherries retain most of their flavor for six to 12 months, depending on how quickly they were frozen and how cold the freezer gets. If you have a sweet tooth, pack them in a very light sugar syrup and then freeze.

Of course, cherries have pits. (If there is a polite way to spit out the pits while you’re blissfully enjoying a handful of fresh cherries, we haven’t seen it yet, but then, who cares?) For processing a lot of cherries in preparation for cooking, a mechanical pitter comes in handy. Cherry pitters can be found in most kitchen supply stores or some supermarkets. There are several types; all are relatively inexpensive and, one way or another, they all do what they’re supposed to do. In a pinch, the narrow end of a chopstick, a pastry bag tip or a (non-paper) drinking straw can also be used to push that infernal seed out of the fruit. 

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RUMTOPF (BRANDIED FRUITS WITH SOUR CHERRIES)

FRESH SOUR CHERRY PIE

LESLIE COONS BOSTIAN

Use your favorite pie crust recipe for this pie, or visit valleytable.com/recipes to see Judy Clarke’s crust recipe.

JUDY CLARKE / PROSPECT HILL ORCHARDS

The ingredients listed here will fill a 2-gallon crock; for easy holiday gifting, use 10 24-ounce Mason jars. Use fruits as they come in season—melons and peaches are NOT recommended because they may soften and discolor.

Ingredients 2 cups each, 8 to 12 different ripe and unblemished fruits, prepared and added as they come into season.

Examples: • apples (cored, sliced) • apricots (pitted, sliced) • blackberries • blueberries (pierced) • cherries, pref. dark sours (pitted) • currants, red and black (pierced) • gooseberries • pears (cored, sliced) • plums (pitted, sliced) • raspberries • strawberries (hulled) 1 cup sugar for every 2 cups of fruit used 2 liters organic dark rum or brandy, at least 80 proof Note: You may want to include more than 2 cups of strawberries and/or cherries—if you do, be sure to increase the amount of sugar proportionately as well (1 cup sugar per 2 cups fruit).

Method 1. When a fruit comes into season, collect, wash and prepare the fruit as specified above.

2. Place prepared fruit in a bowl and toss gently with 1 cup sugar for every 2 cups of fruit. Allow fruit/sugar to macerate at room temperature 30 minutes, preferably overnight.

3. Add the fruit/sugar and any juices to the crock or jars.

4. Add enough rum or brandy to cover the fruit. Place a small plate, glass lid or large marbles atop the fruit to keep it submerged in the liquid.

5. Cover the crock or jars and place in a quiet, cool place.

6. As the next fruit comes into season, repeat the process. (Remember: Before adding another layer of fruit to the crock or jars, remove the weight holding the previous fruit under the liquid, add more rum or brandy to cover all the fruit and be sure the fruit stays submerged.)

7. After the last fruits are added, let the rumtopf sit for another month or two.

The mixture can last a year or more.

To serve: The fruit and liquid can be mixed with spirits or beer or used as a dessert topping.

Adapted from a recipe published in Organic Gardening, October 2013

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Ingredients 4 cups fresh cherries, washed, drained, pitted 1/4 teaspoons almond extract 1 1/2 cups sugar 5 tablespoons flour makes 1 9-inch pie

CHERRY SALSA LESLIE COONS BOSTIAN

SOUR CHERRY SALSA Ingredients 2 1/4 cups fresh sour cherries, pitted, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon sugar 3 tablespoons diced red onion (about half of a small red onion) 1 large fresh jalapeño, seeded, ribs removed, finely chopped (reserve some seeds, add to taste) 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1/2 teaspoon salt makes about 2 1/2 cups Method 1. In a bowl, mix chopped cherries with the sugar until the sugar is evenly distributed and dissolved.

2. Add onion, jalapeño, orange juice, cilantro and salt and mix well.

3. Allow to sit at room temperature 30 minutes before serving.

SWEET CHERRY SALSA Ingredients 2 cups sweet cherries, pitted, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup red onion, diced 1/2 fresh jalapeño, seeded, ribs removed, finely chopped (reserve some seeds, add to taste) juice of 1 lime 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced salt, pepper to taste 1 ⁄8 to 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (optional, to taste) makes about 2 1/2 cups Method Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes before serving.

Method Preheat oven to 425˚F. 1. In a bowl, stir together cherries and almond extract.

2. In another bowl, combine sugar and flour and mix evenly.

3. Combine cherries and sugar/flour mixture and stir until evenly coated.

4. Pour filling into the pastry-lined pie pan.

5. Lay the top crust over the filling. Trim the top crust 1/2- to 3/4-inch beyond the bottom crust.

6. Fold the top crust under the edge of the bottom crust, catching it inside the fold. Flute edge in desired pattern.

7. Place pie on a baking sheet and bake in 425˚F oven 35 to 45 minutes, until nicely browned.

SOUR CHERRIES & DUMPLINGS JUDY CLARKE / PROSPECT HILL ORCHARDS

Ingredients 4 cups whole sour cherries, washed, drained, pitted 1 1/2 cups sugar 1/2 teaspoon almond extract 2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted 4 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon shortening, at room temperature 2 ⁄3 cup whole milk 1/4 to 1/2 cup water, as needed serves 6 to 8 Method 1. In a good-sized Dutch oven with a cover, combine the cherries and sugar. Add almond extract. Bring to a boil. Maintain over medium heat.

2. In a mixing bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt.

3. Cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles rice kernels.

4. Quickly stir in the milk with a fork until just blended.

5. Drop the batter by tablespoons into the boiling cherries. Add water as needed to keep the dumplings submerged in liquid.

6. Cover the Dutch oven tightly and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes.

Serve the dumplings and hot stewed cherries with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

2019

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L O C A L LY G R O W N

farmers future on their

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N I S S U E 8 5 O F T H E VA L L E Y TA B L E , I W R O T E

by keith stewart

PHOTO BY DAVID HANDSCHUH

about a double-fisted threat to the Hudson Valley’s rich agricultural tradition: Aging farmers, whose days in the field are numbered, and high land prices and startup costs that confront younger individuals keen to pick up the mantle. To follow up, I interviewed several established farmers to find out what they believe lies ahead for them and their farms.

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The farmers featured here are responsible for keeping close to 2,500 acres of land in agricultural production.

They all care deeply about their chosen path; they work long hours and struggle against unpredictable weather and harsh economic realities. Three have protected large portions of their property with conservation easements that preclude future commercial or residential development, but, as currently written, do not guarantee continued agricultural use.

Larger questions remain: Will our cherished rural landscape and agricultural traditions survive constant development pressure and our ever-expanding industrial food system? Or will our working farms continue to slip away, leaving only pockets of agritourism and mini-farms that don’t need much land and cater primarily to niche markets? The answers to these and related questions will surely affect those of us who choose to live in the Hudson Valley, now and in the future.

Bob Stap, 58, is a third-generation dairy farmer in Pine Bush (Orange County). With help from his wife, Stacey, and son, Garrett, he milks 120 cows and looks after an additional 100 young stock on their 150-acre farm (about a third of which extends into Ulster County). It sounds like a lot of land, but it’s not enough to keep all those bovine bellies well fed. The Staps lease additional neighboring land, bringing the total area under their management to 700 acres.

Given the bleak outlook for dairy in the Hudson Valley, the Staps are always looking for opportunities that might help them keep farming for another generation or two.

Several years ago, they tried bottling and selling raw (unpasteurized) milk, but have discontinued that.

Today, Garrett is spearheading a slightly different on-farm bottling operation: The milk is pasteurized using an older method and different equipment that heats the milk to 146° F for 30 minutes. (In contrast, the supermarket milk most of us are accustomed to is processed in large plants where it usually is heated to 165°F for just 30 seconds. Garrett explains the higher temperatures kill the milk’s lactase enzyme, which can cause a lactose intolerance reaction in some humans.)

Garret Stap

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Will Brown

You’ve got to love farming in order to stay with it. Either that, or be a little crazy.

—Pete Taliaferro

Bob Stap

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BOB STAP & GARRET STAP PHOTOS PROVIDED; WILL BROWN PHOTO BY ABBY LUBY

Garrett’s milk also differs from supermarket milk in that it is not homogenized. This means the cream separates and settles on the top—the “creamy top” is regarded as a special treat by some dairy lovers.

At this point, the Staps are selling their bottled milk (both plain and chocolate-flavored) at the farm and at a couple of local delis in Walker Valley (Ulster County). It has met with positive reviews. They are hoping to convince Hannaford Supermarkets to carry their single-source, local product, but there’s a lot of regulations and paperwork yet to go through.

The husband-and-wife team of Will Brown and Barbara Felton purchased an old 200-acre dairy farm in the town of Warwick in 1985. At that time, Will was an economist at a major financial house in New York City and Barbara was on the faculty at New York University’s psychology department. For 10 years, they leased their land to neighboring farmers for hay and pasture, but in 1995, the couple turned to raising beef cattle. Thus was born Lowland Farm. Over nearly 25 years, their business has grown substantially and they have earned an excellent reputation for their high-quality, sustainably produced local meat.

Today, with the help of a farm manager, the couple raises cattle, pigs and sheep on about 900 acres they own (700 acres are protected with conservation easements). They rent an additional 200 acres of neighboring land for pasture or hay. The farm’s cattle spend their entire lives outdoors eating grass and hay.

At age 69, Will estimates he has about another five years of active farming in him. He envisions a future in which he steps back but the farm keeps running, responsibilities divided among three principal partners: one who takes care of the animals; one who operates and maintains the equipment; and one who focuses on marketing and promoting the farm’s label. He knows that pulling this off will be a challenge. What will he do if his plan doesn’t work out? “At this point,” he admits, “there is no plan B.” Pete Taliaferro’s life in agriculture began at age 13. For a couple of decades he spent most of his time on other people’s farms or helping growers set up irrigation systems.

In 1995, he and his wife, Robin, fulfilled a lifelong dream when they purchased 32 acres of rundown apple orchard adjacent to the Wallkill River on the outskirts of New Paltz. Within a few years, they were up and running, and Taliaferro Farms was on its way to becoming one of the most popular and productive organic vegetable operations in Ulster County.

The Taliaferros’ approach to marketing was broad. It included a 215-member CSA, four farmers’ markets, restaurant sales, wholesale distribution (including to the Culinary Institute of America) and on-farm sales. Gross sales reached into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, but real profit has been modest, erratic and sometimes non-existent.

Now, at 62 years old, Pete is beginning to feel his age.

The physical demands and the financial challenges of farming have taken their toll. He had hoped that either or

Pete Taliaferro

PETE TALIAFERRO PHOTO BY JERRY NOVESKY

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both of his sons would take over the operation—both put in their time on the farm [see Valley Table 42, Aug–Sept 2008]—but they chose not to. In 2011, Hurricane Irene hit, followed by Tropical Storm Lee, and the farm was devastated. “We’re still recovering from that washout,” Pete says, adding, “You’ve got to love farming in order to stay with it. Either that, or be a little crazy.”

Robin’s off-farm teaching job has been critical to the couple’s financial solvency while they scale back operations and search for a farm manager. The farm has been listed on Hudson Valley Farmland Finder for four years with no luck. (Farmland Finder is one of several Farmlink programs in the Northeast that attempts to match would-be farmers with retiring farmers or landowners wishing to sell or lease their property.)

In April 2018, the Taliaferros signed a Purchase of Development Rights (PDR) contract with Scenic Hudson and the Wallkill Valley Land Trust, with additional help from the town of New Paltz and Ulster County, that enabled them to pay off their mortgage and ensure their land will never be developed (though its resale value is much diminished). Pete and Robin now rest easier, knowing that another farmer may yet make Taliaferro Farms a home.

Russ Smiley, 56, has been a dairy farmer all his working life. He purchased his 240-acre farm in the town of Wallkill (Orange County) from his father in 2009 after most of the land was protected by a PDR agreement. Smiley admits he’d like to keep milking cows but doesn’t see much future

Laura Nywening

Johnson has farmed all his life, but because of chronically low milk prices, he says this year will probably be his last. in it—he says he might last another two or three years. He hopes to transition to raising beef cows until retirement— and he already has a starter herd of eight Black Angus.

The last decent year for dairymen in the Hudson Valley was 2014. Since then, the cost of feed, equipment, maintenance and trucking have continued to rise, while the price of milk locally has stayed flat or gone down.

Smiley openly wonders when the distant processing plant he works with will notify him that they won’t make the trip to pick up his milk anymore. He believes the days of mom-and-pop dairy farms in the Hudson Valley are over— the 10,000- and even 30,000-cow operations (factories, actually) in other parts of the country eventually will produce all the milk we drink.

Gary Johnson, 62, a fourth-generation dairyman, currently milks 180 cows on a 350-acre farm in the town

Russ Smiley

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PHOTOS THESE PAGES BY DAVID HANDSCHUH

Gary Johnson

Curtis Johnson

of Chester (Orange County). Johnson has farmed all his life, mostly in partnership with his father and brother, but because of chronically low milk prices, he says this year will probably be his last, and the future of the farm may be in limbo. Johnson prefers not to sell; if he does, he says the land’s last crop would probably be houses. Trading the dairy herd for beef cattle is an alternative, but he says the economic viability of such a move is shaky.

A couple of small but promising ventures are underway that truly define the term “family” farm. Johnson’s son, Curtis, is growing hops and built a nano-brewery on the property. His on-farm tasting room, already a hit with local residents, offers 10 different beers sold under the Long Lot Farm Brewery label. Curtis says he hopes to keep growing the business and eventually place his products in local retail outlets.

Seven years ago, Johnson’s niece, Laura Nywening, who worked on our farm in 2011, started Peace and Carrots Farm on the family land. Nywening grows certified naturally grown vegetables on five acres; she markets her crops through a CSA, a farm stand and a farmers’ market in Tarrytown. Her Peace and Carrots CSA currently has 80 members, a number she says she’d like to double, though she admits she’s skeptical about investing in a business that depends so heavily on land with an uncertain future.

With a cautious laugh, she says she’s proud to have beat the statistics so far, knowing full well that, these days, the odds are not good for young start-up farmers. 

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D I R E C T O RY

ART EXPOSURES GALLERY 1357 Kings Hwy, Sugar Loaf (845) 469-9382; exposures.com Beautiful art for fine homes, corporate offices and healthcare spaces from internationally recognized and the Hudson Valley’s preeminent landscape photographer, Nick Zungoli.

NEWBURGH ART SUPPLY 5 Grand St, Newburgh (845) 561-5552; newburghartsupply.com Mon-Thur 10-6; Fri 11-7; Sat 10-6; Closed Sun See, feel and experience quality art materials in one of Newburgh's restored landmarks in the heart of the Washington Market neighborhood.

Your local source for essential creative supplies for the student, professional and enthusiast. Join us for Newburgh Open Studios Sept. 28 & 29!

AC C O M M O DAT I O N S BEAR MOUNTAIN INN 99 Service Rd, Tomkins Cove (855) 548-1184 for reservations; visitbearmountain.com Idyllic destination getaway for the adventurer, the romantic, or those looking to celebrate a memorable wedding or special event.

BUTTERMILK FALLS INN & SPA 220 N Rd, Milton (845) 795-1310; buttermilkfallsinn.com This 75-acre Hudson River Valley estate offers a remarkable selection of lodgings, a farm-totable restaurant, an organic kitchen garden and orchard a world-class spa, gardens, trails and animal sanctuary.

HOTEL TIVOLI 53 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2100; hoteltivoli.org Set in a charming early 20th-century stone building, this warm boutique hotel with a modern vibe features 10 guest rooms, a farmto-table restaurant and is filled with an eclectic collection of furniture, lighting and art.

HUDSON HOUSE RIVER INN 2 Main Street, Cold Spring (845) 265-9355; hudsonhouseinn.com Just steps away from the Hudson River, this charming inn offers 11 guest rooms and 2 suites, a fine dining restaurant and casual dining tavern in an impeccably restored 1832 landmark building.

RESORTS WORLD CATSKILLS 888 Resorts World Drive, Monticello (833) 586-9358 for reservations; rwcatskills.com Located in the heart of the Catskill region, this integrated casino and entertainment resort offers two unique hotel options for experiences in excitement, entertainment and luxury.

ROUNDHOUSE 2 East Main Street, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com This historic property overlooking a beautiful waterfall and rushing creek offers a full-service

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experience, including a boutique hotel, award winning American restaurant and popular event space for up to 200 guests.

RED LINE DINER 588 Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 765-8401; dineatredline.com

STEWART HOUSE 2 North Water St, Athens (518) 444-8317; stewarthouse.com Discover nine elegant guest rooms, a ca. 1883 tavern featuring craft cocktails and locally sourced cuisine and a river front bar, all recently restored.

TABLE TALK DINER 2519 South Rd (Rt 9), Poughkeepsie (845) 849-2839; tabletalkdiner.com

BAKERIES THE ALTERNATIVE BAKER 407 Main St, Rosendale (845) 658–3355; lemoncakes.com Sun, Mon, Thu 7–5; Fri & Sat 7–7:30; Closed Tue & Wed Celebrating 22 years of small-batch, 100 percent handmade all-butter baked goods.

Offering gluten-free and other allergyfriendly options, we offer breakfast and lunch sandwiches; Harney Teas and JB Peel coffees (hot or iced); award-winning Belgian hot chocolate (hot or frozen); a seasonally-changing dessert menu and special occasion cakes, including weddings and birthdays. “Worth a detour”—The New York Times C AT E R I N G TERRAPIN RESTAURANT CATERING & EVENTS 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 889-8831; terrapincatering.com Enjoy the same high-quality ingredients and service that you know at Terrapin Restaurant anywhere in the Hudson Valley. Catering events of all types and sizes, Terrapin prepares custom menus for every event, using local, organic ingredients whenever possible. Contact Catering Director Hugh Piney.

LOLA'S CAFE & CATERING lolascafeandcatering.com Voted top caterer by Wedding Wire for 9 years in a row. Brilliant food. Stunning venues.

Impeccable service.

CIDERY ANGRY ORCHARD 2241 Albany Post Rd, Walden (845) 713-5180; angryorchard.com The cider makers continue to innovate with ingredients and cider making techniques. Visit the beautiful grounds, tasting room, exhibits and fire pit. Learn how cider is made and sample the specialty ciders made on-site. Check the schedule for special brunch and dinner dates.

DINERS DAILY PLANET 1202 Rt 55, Lagrangeville (845) 452-0110; dailyplanetdiner.com

FA S H I O N NYCE BLU nyceblu.com NYCe BLU produces creatively designed, and expertly crafted, high quality, sculpted leather handbags; using the finest materials and the highest attention to detail. Carry the vibrance of New York City everywhere you go.

HOME N&S SUPPLY, INC. 205 Old Rt 9, Fishkill (845) 896-6291; nssupply.com Your one-stop resource for all plumbing, heating and HVAC needs, including specialty products designed and manufactured to meet your lifestyle needs; the latest innovative products, including cutting-edge bathroom technology from remote flushing toilets to hands-free faucets. Six locations: Fishkill, Brewster, Kingston, Catskill, Hudson and Danbury.

KITCHEN WARREN KITCHEN & CUTLERY 6934 Rt 9, Rhinebeck (845) 876-6208; warrenkitchentools.com Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30; Sun 11–4:30 The Hudson Valley’s complete source for professional kitchen knives and tools, commercial quality cookware, bakeware, pocketknives and woodcarving tools. We stock the largest selection of name-brand cutlery in the region at prices well below retail. Knife sets, knife blocks and carving boards. Professional knife sharpening while you wait.

MARKETS ADAMS FAIRACRE FARMS 1560 Ulster Ave, Kingston; (845) 336-6300 1240 Rt 300, Newburgh; (845) 569-0303 765 Dutchess Tnpk, Poughkeepsie; (845) 454-4330 160 Old Post Rd, Wappinger; (845) 632-9955 adamsfarms.com Open daily A family-owned farm market/garden center. A cornucopia of fresh produce, meats, fish, deli, and prepared foods. Featuring Hudson Valley products, a great selection of the best local cheese, meat, produce and more.

TASTENY STORE AT TODD HILL Taconic State Parkway, Lagrange; Located 10 miles north of I-84 and 1 mile south of Rt 55 (845) 849-0247; ccedutchess.org Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat 8-6; Fri 8-8; Sun 9-7; Closed Tue

eating is believing. a delightfully unique experience in rhinebeck.

restaurant | bistro | bar 845-876-3330 www.terrapinrestaurant.com june

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An asset along the Taconic State Parkway, find a vast array of foods and products grown or made in the Hudson Valley.

N AT U R A L F O O D S BEACON NATURAL MARKET 348 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-1288; beaconnaturalmarket.com Mon–Sat 9–7; Sun 10–5 Lighting the way for a healthier world. Featuring organic prepared foods, deli and juice bar, organic and regional produce, meats and cheeses. Open since 2005, proprietors L.T. and Kitty Sherpa are dedicated to serving the Hudson Valley with a complete selection of products that are good for you and good for the planet, including an extensive alternative health department. Nutritionist on staff. Catering available.

MOTHER EARTH’S 300 Kings Mall Ct, Kingston; (845) 336-5541 249 Main St, Saugerties; (845) 246-9614 1955 South Rd, Poughkeepsie; (845) 296-1069 motherearthstorehouse.com Open daily Offering the finest natural foods, bulk spices, herbs, vitamins, supplements and organic produce. The valley’s best organic, hot and cold takeout at our Kingston and Poughkeepsie locations.

SUNFLOWER NATURAL MARKET 75 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock (845) 679-5361 24 Garden St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-0798 sunflowernatural.com Mon–Fri 8–9; Sat 9–9; Sun 10–7 The area’s most complete natural foods market, featuring certified organic produce, organic milk, cheeses and eggs, a wide range of bulk organic grains and nuts, non-irradiated herbs and spices, plus vitamins, homeopathic and body care products.

R E S TAU R A N T S 8 NORTH BROADWAY 8 N Broadway, Nyack (845) 353-1200; 8northbroadway.com Mon-Sat 12-10; Sun 12-9 With a menu inspired by locally sourced seafood, beef, lamb, poultry and organic produce, this seasonal restaurant reflects the freshest ingredients from the Hudson Valley.

BAJA 328 328 Main St, Beacon (845) 838-BAJA; baja328.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11–10, Fri–Sat 11–11, Sun noon–8 Main Street’s newest hot spot, Baja 328 offers the finest authentic Southwestern food couples with 110-plus tequilas, the largest selection in the area.

CAFÉ AMARCORD 276 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-0050; cafeamarcord.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu noon–10; Fri–Sat noon– 11; Sun noon–9

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Creative New American cuisine with Italian undertones, served in a warm atmosphere. Enjoy an artisanal cocktail at the onyx bar before having dinner in the bistro-style dining room or on our Main Street terrace. Bring colleagues for a casual lunch, or a date for a romantic night out.

CITY PERCH KITCHEN + BAR 1 Livingstone Ave, Dobbs Ferry (914) 348-7003; cityperch.com Seasonal American dining meets handcrafted garden-to-glass cocktails and a boutique wine list. Featuring an open kitchen, raw seafood bar and brick oven pizza.

CLOCK TOWER GRILL KITCHEN & BAR 512 Clock Tower Dr, Brewster (845) 582-0574; clocktowergrill.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu noon–9, Fri noon–11; dinner Sat 5–11, Sun 3–9 Set in a renovated barn, the atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated; the menu “rustic American” with many ingredients drawn from area farms.

THE CORNER RESTAURANT AT HOTEL TIVOLI 53 Broadway, Tivoli (845) 757-2100; hoteltivoli.org Dinner: Sun – Thu 5:30 to 9:30pm, Fri – Sat 5:30 to 10pm. Closed Tuesdays Brunch: Sat – Sun 11 to 2:30pm Mediterranean-inspired menu, prepared using local ingredients as well as select imported items. The bar offers a well-curated selection of wines as well as fresh-ingredient cocktails designed by Employees Only in NYC. COSIMO’S RESTAURANT GROUP Cosimo’s On Union 1217 Rt 300, Newburgh; (845) 567-1556; fax (845) 567-9246 Cosimo’s Middletown 620 Rt 211 East, Middletown; (845) 692-3242 Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie 120 Delafield St, Poughkeepsie; (845) 485-7172 Cosimo’s Woodbury Rt 32, Central Valley; (845) 928-5222 cosimosrestaurantgroup.com Lunch & dinner daily Casual trattoria-style dining with some of the world’s best wines. Old-style Italian cuisine with a New World twist. Daily specials, pasta, fish and meat dishes. Distinctive cocktail lounges, a unique wine cellar for private dinner parties and beautiful catering facilities.

CRAFT 47 47 W. Main St, Goshen (845) 360-5253; craft47.com Lunch & Dinner Tue-Thu noon-10; Fri-Sat noonmidnight; Sun noon-10 Kickback, relax and sample the best of the Hudson Valley at Craft 47. We offer small-plate American tapas, craft wine and 12 craft beers on tap, with even more in the cooler.

THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA 1946 Campus Dr (off Rt 9), Hyde Park The premier culinary college offers exceptional global cuisine in its award-winning restaurants: American Bounty Restaurant (845) 451-1011; americanbountyrestaurant.com The Bocuse Restaurant (845) 451-1012; bocuserestaurant.com Reimagines classic French cuisine using modern techniques.

Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici (845) 451-1013; ristorantecaterinademedici.com The Apple Pie Bakery Café (845) 905-4500; applepiebakerycafe.com ENOTECA AMA 297 Main St., Beacon (845) 765-2909; enotecaama.com Mon–Thu noon–10; Fri–Sat noon–11; Sun noon–9 Pizza as it should be—al forno. All-Italian wines.

GINO’S RESTAURANT 1671 Rt 9, Wappingers Falls (845) 297-8061; ginoswappingers.com Lunch & dinner Tue–Thu 11:30–9; Fri–Sat 11:30–10; Sun 1–9 Serving the Hudson Valley since 1984.

Traditional southern Italian cuisine in a casual environment. Only the freshest ingredients used to prepare your favorite veal, chicken, seafood and pasta dishes. Catering on- and off-premise.

HENRY’S AT BUTTERMILK FALLS 220 North Rd, Milton (845) 795-1500; henrysatbuttermilk.com Lunch Fri–Sat 11:30–3; Dinner Sun–Thu 5–9; Brunch Sun 11–3 Local comes alive at this bucolic Inn & Spa, where the main ingredients are sourced from local producers and purveyors. An inventive menu features a fresh selection of large and small plates from casual burger and fries to refined New American dishes. Enjoy a predinner stroll through the organic gardens and orchards or a drink overlooking the Hudson River and sweeping lawns. Al fresco dining available.

HUDSONS RIBS & FISH 1099 Route 9, Fishkill (845) 297-5002; hudsonsribsandfish.com Dinner nightly. Sunday brunch.

A little bite of New England in the Hudson Valley.

HUDSON HOUSE RIVER INN 2 Main Street, Cold Spring (845) 265-9355; hudsonhouseinn.com Lunch, Dinner, Sunday Brunch A charming, historic inn and restaurant overlooking Storm King Mountain and the Hudson River.

JAEGER HAUS 5084 NY-9G, Tivoli (845) 757-1011; jaegerhaustivoli.com Wed, Thu 5-9; Fri 5-9:30; Sat 12-9:30; Sun 12-9 Closed Mon, Tue The restaurant serves a modern interpretation of German classics in a casual environment.

The international beer and wine list features both German and local selections. Conveniently located on Route 9G in Tivoli with indoor and outdoor seating available in the restaurant and biergarten.

LEO’S RISTORANTE Rt 9D, Wappingers Falls; (845) 838-3446 22 Quaker Ave, Cornwall; (845) 534-3446 1433 Rt 300, Newburgh; (845) 564-3446 leospizzeria.com Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat 11–10; Sun 2–9 A family favorite since 1981, Leo’s offers traditional classic Italian dishes, pizza, hot/cold subs, pasta, veal, chicken and appetizers. Daily specials and catering for all occasions whether in our location or yours. Great food served in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.

Warren Kitchen & Cutlery’s

Summer Sale.

The lowest prices of the year on everything for the kitchen!

Professional cutlery from around the world • Cookware Bakeware • Grilling tools • Glassware and Barware Kitchen Appliances • Serving pieces and accessories Coffee makers • Unique kitchen gadgets Thursday through Sunday

*selected, store in-stock only.

SAVIN%GS

UP TO

50

JULY 18 T H

SUMMER R A S YE

FOUR DA Y S ~

E ~ L A

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ONCE 21 ~ A RU

The Hudson Valley’s best selection of fine cutlery, professional cookware, appliances, serving pieces and kitchen tools.

6934 Route 9 Rhinebeck, NY 12572 Just north of the 9G intersection 845-876-6208 Mon–Sat 9:30–5:30, Sun 11–4:30 Visit us on the web at www.warrenkitchentools.com

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LOLA’S CAFÉ 49 Main St, New Paltz (845)255-6555 Mon–Thu 11–9; Fri– Sat 11–10; Sun 11–8 131 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845)471-8555 Mon–Fri 10–5; Sat 10–4 lolascafeandcatering.com.

Poughkeepsie’s hottest lunch spot is now New Paltz’s newest lunch and dinner spot. Fast and friendly vibe. Great food, Generous portions abound. One of the Hudson Valley’s leading gourmet catering companies.

LOLITA’S 129 Washington St, Poughkeepsie (845) 452-8100’ lolitaspizza.com Tue-Thu, Sun 11:30-9; Fri-Sat 11:30-10 Located under the Walkway, the 50-seat eatery specializes in wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza, fresh pasta made in-house, as well as a Wine Spectator award winning wine list, local craft beers and specialty cocktails based off of what is available at the local farmers’ market.

MEYER’S OLDE DUTCH 184 Main St, Beacon (845) 440-6900; meyersoldedutch.com Sun–Thurs 11:30–9; Fri–Sat 11:30–12 Fun and casual, modern take on the classic burger joint with locally sourced loaded burgers, killer crispy chicken sandwich, house made veggie burgers and a full bar.

NINA 27 W. Main St, Middletown (845) 344-6800; nina-restaurant.com Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner Mon-Sun from 5; Brunch Sun 9:30-2 New York City-trained chef Franz Brendle brings an elegant flair to classic American cuisine.

Features include filet mignon Roquefort, shrimp asparagus risotto and seafood specials. Nice selection of wines in various price ranges.

Friendly staff, cozy décor. Hearty Sunday Brunch.

NORTH PLANK ROAD TAVERN 30 Plank Rd, Newburgh (845) 562-5031; northplankroadtavern.com Dinner Tues-Thurs 3-9; Fri-Sat 3-10; Sun 3-9 New American restaurant in operation since 1801, using locally sourced ingredients to produce a fine dining experience. Originally built as a hotel along a plank road, The Tavern has a rich historical significance and an oldworld atmosphere.

PAULA’S PUBLIC HOUSE 2186 New Hackensack Rd, Poughkeepsie (845) 454-7821; paulaspublichouse.com Mon & Tue 4–11; Wed & Thu 11–11; Fri & Sat 11–1; Sun 12–6 An inviting gastro pub sporting a cozy and friendly environment complemented by the warmth of a fireplace and a rustic ambiance.

Paula’s offers lunch, supper and late-night fare and features live music, open mic and karaoke nights.

RESTAURANT 1915 AT BEAR MOUNTAIN INN 55 Hessian Drive, Bear Mountain (845) 786-2731 ext. 1915; visitbearmountain.com Mon, Tues 11–8; Wed–Sun 11–9; Sunday Brunch 11–3 Located at the historic Bear Mountain Inn, enjoy a seasonal menu in a beautiful lodge setting.

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RIVER GRILL AT STEWART HOUSE 2 North Water St, Athens (518) 444-8317; stewarthouse.com Enjoy live music and wood fired delights in the garden under the shade of the famous Stewart House willows.

THE ROUNDHOUSE 2 E Main St, Beacon (845) 765-8369; roundhousebeacon.com Lunch & dinner Wed–Sat 11:30–Close; Sun Brunch 11–3; Lunch 3–8 Set in a historic textile mill transformed into boutique hotel, the restaurant serves elegant, locally inspired American fare and offers a wellcurated list of craft beers, cocktails and wines.

The main dining room, lounge and seasonal patio all overlook Beacon Falls.

TERRAPIN RESTAURANT & RED BISTRO 6426 Montgomery St, Rhinebeck (845) 876-3330; terrapinrestaurant.com Lunch & dinner daily 11:30–midnight; dining room daily 5–9pm From far-flung origins, the world’s most diverse flavors meet and mingle here. From elements both historic and eclectic comes something surprising, fresh and dynamic: dishes to delight body and soul. Choose fine dining in Terrapin’s dining room or casual fare in Red Bistro & Bar. From good burgers and quesadillas to wild salmon and local filet mignon. Terrapin’s local organic and authentic menu satisfies all.

WILDFIRE GRILL 74 Clinton St, Montgomery (845) 457-3770; wildfireny.com Lunch Mon–Sat 11:30–3; Sun noon–3; dinner Sun–Thu 5–9; Fri & Sat 5–10 Eclectic is the buzzword at this popular local eatery, where patrons can feast on a predominantly American menu with Asian, Mexican and Italian influences in a rustic Victorian setting.

XAVIAR’S RESTAURANT GROUP Chef-owner Peter Kelly offers his signature service and exceptional cuisine. Critics agree: Dining in the valley will never be the same.

Restaurant X & Bully Boy Bar 117 North Rt 303, Congers (845) 268-6555 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2:30; dinner Tue–Thu 5:30– 10, Fri 5:30–10:30, Sat 5–11, Sun 5–8; brunch Sun seating 1pm X2O Xaviars on the Hudson 71 Water Grant Way, Yonkers (914) 965-1111 Lunch Tue–Fri noon–2; dinner Tue–Fri 5:30–10, Sat 5–10, Sun 5–9; brunch Sun noon–2 T R AV E L COLUMBIA COUNTY TOURISM (518) 828-3375; columbiacountytourism.org DUTCHESS TOURISM (845) 463-4000; dutchesstourism.com ORANGE COUNTY TOURISM (845) 615-3860; orangetourism.org ROCKLAND COUNTY TOURISM (845) 364-2170;bexplorerocklandny.com ULSTER COUNTY TOURISM (845) 340-3566; ulstercountyalive.com

WESTCHESTER COUNTY TOURISM (800) 833-9282; visitwestchesterny.com WHOLESALE RED BARN PRODUCE 217 Upper North Rd, Highland (845) 691-7428 Full-service, family owned and operated wholesaler servicing restaurants and institutions with a complete selection of fruits and vegetables for 20 years. A proud distributor of local, New York, high-quality produce at competitive prices emphasizing reliable and personal service. Pick-up or delivery available to Dutchess, Columbia, Ulster and Orange counties.

WINERIES GLORIE FARM WINERY 40 Mountain Rd, Marlboro (845) 236-3265; gloriewine.com Near the top of Mt. Zion Mountain with spectacular views of the Hudson, this boutiquestyle winery produces award-winning wines—a mix of red, white and fruit wines, dry, semi-dry and sweet, European varietals and hybrids as well as blends.

SHAWANGUNK WINE TRAIL (845) 256-8456; (845) 291-1927; gunkswine.com Nestled between the Shawangunks and the Hudson River, just 60 miles north of NYC is a trail of 14 family-owned wineries from New Paltz to Warwick. The wineries offer tours and tastings amidst scenic beauty. A complete listing of wineries and events is available on our website.

STOUTRIDGE VINEYARD & DISTILLERY 10 Ann Kaley Ln, Marlboro (845) 236-7620; stoutridge.com Many of our wines and spirits are locally grown, and all are from New York fruits and grains. Our wines are sold exclusively at the winery. Enjoy an authentic taste of the Hudson Valley at our winery, distillery and grounds.

WARWICK VALLEY WINERY & DISTILLERY 114 Little York Rd, Warwick (845) 258-4858; wvwinery.com Daily 11–6 for tastings Food & Wine magazine calls our draft cider “clean, vibrant” with a “sweet finish.” We produce wine for every occasion: Chardonnay, Riesling, Harvest Moon, Black Dirt Blush and Red, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir. As the Valley’s first distillery, we produce a line of fine brandies and liqueurs. Bakery Café serves lunch and fresh breads on weekends.

WHITECLIFF VINEYARD 331 McKinstry Rd, Gardiner (845) 255-4613; whitecliffwine.com Daily 11:30–5:30; Sat til 6 One of the valley’s largest vineyards boasts beautiful views of the Shawangunk Ridge.

Owner/wine maker Michael Migliore produces award-winning wines from European vinifera varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling, as well as new hybrids. Visit our friendly tasting room. Winery tours by appointment, special events.

Mo NOW th O er PE Ea N I rth N K ’s IN Ca GS fé TO & N! De li

Summer in the Hudson Valley just got SWEETER

Since

1978

• Certified Organic Produce • Bulk Items • Body Care Products • Vitamins & Supplements • Homemade Desserts • Delicious Food

For Reservations (845) 757-1011 june

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Whole sale fruit & Produce

Where quality rules, local comes first and taste matters 217 UPPER NORTH ROAD, HIGHLAND • 845.691.7428 • FAX 845.691.7468

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UP CLOSE

resorts world catskills:

a low-roller’s food notes

T

H E R E ’ S N O S T U F F E D CA B BAG E O R K I S H K A .

text and photos by david handschuh

There’s no all-you-can-eat herring or kasha varnishkes.

No ghosts of 1950s comedians wander the halls. No, the gleaming glass-and-metal Resorts World Catskills resort/casino on the site of the former Concord Hotel in Kiamesha Lake isn’t your grandparents’ Catskills.

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Here you may bump into celebrity chef Scott Conant wandering the bar area of Cellaio, an Italian-inspired steakhouse, or you can meet friends at a street-taco Mexican joint where margaritas are on tap and there’s a rainbow of tequilas for sipping or cocktails. There are three bars scattered around the smoke-free casino, a pool bar and food for all tastes at all price points.

“Our goal is to offer innovative concepts that entice the local community and our guests to view us as a culinary destination,” Resorts World Catskills Vice President of Food and Beverage Michael Beford says. “We were inspired to provide a dining experience that reflected seasonal, local offerings, casino classics and the diversity of the guests who are traveling to visit.”

So, if you want your lychee martini, jade shrimp dumplings or salt and pepper calamari in luxury style, take in some high-end Asian dining at Lotus. The Peking duck, abalone or cumin lamb chops there rival the best in Hong Kong or Shanghai. The Tsing Tao jumbo prawns use, by far, the largest shrimps you’ll ever be served.

Gamers who crave congee, a fast noodle dish, an order of pork pot stickers or other Asian street food can find the real stuff at Good Friends. Order from a self-serve kiosk and you can watch the chefs stir-fry your meal in the window of the open kitchen.

When he’s in the house, you’ll often find Chef Conant chatting with guests in the bar or posing for photos with his fans from “24 Hour Restaurant Battle,” “Top Chef,” or

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“Chopped.” A large glass window at Cellaio allows diners to watch fresh linguini being made, cooked and tossed in sauce. (That secret ingredient you’ll see the chef add to his sauce? Butter.) Another large window allows guests with slower heart rates to watch slabs of Black Angus beef, tomahawk steaks, prime rib and other meats age among blocks of pink Himalayan salt.

In the adjacent Alder Hotel, Dos Gatos Cantina will satisfy every Mexican street food fantasy you dare muster.

The pork belly, carne asada, mole chicken, crispy fish and shrimp or veggie tacos will likely make your toes curl. (We ordered them all for a group and added rice and beans on the side. Standards like guacamole, Mexican street corn, fried plantains and nachos went well with sips of Clase Azul and Milagro Single Barrel Añejo tequilas, straight up.)

There are 40 agave-based spirits, like tequila and mezcal, currently available at the bar, but Dos Gatos plans to have 120 different bottles for sipping or mixing.

Insomniacs will love the 24/7 Bistro, which offers amped-up diner classics 24 hours a day. Order the fried chicken with waffle butter to take back to your room for a bedtime snack. While you’re waiting for it, have a boozy milkshake, like Kahlúa, cookies and cream or a Drunken Monkey (made with Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and hazelnut liqueur).

If you still need options, try the RW Food Hall, which has everything else, from Philly cheesesteak and corndogs to wings, pizza, sandwiches or fruit salad.

Resorts World Catskills offers more than 100,000 square feet of gaming space with 2,150 slot machines and more than 150 live table games. Surprisingly, there’s actually daylight in the casino, something you won’t find in Vegas or Atlantic city.

There are 433 rooms between the all-suites casino hotel and the Alder. For high rollers, there are 27 garden or penthouse suites and two-story villas with their own little pools, or roll the dice all night long in the Palace high-limit gaming area or in a private gaming salon. There’s a helipad ready if you travel by helicopter.

“The building celebrates and embraces the beautiful tension between modern design and the rustic charm of the Catskills,” says Kevin Kline, Resorts World Catskills chief operating officer and general manager. “Windows strategically incorporated provide a connection to the outdoors, offer scenic views and bring natural light into the interior.”

If you’re going to a concert this summer at Bethel Woods, note that it’s only 12 miles away. You can fight the traffic down Rt.17, or you can stay the night at Resorts World Catskills. The food ain’t half bad, either. 

PHOTOS BOTTOM LEFT COURTESY RESORTS WORLD

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T R AV E L I N G T A B L E

coming home with

peperoni di senise text and photos by eliot gee

T

H E S O U T H E R N I TA L I A N C I T Y O F M AT E R A

is characterized by its distinctive sassi, rocky dwellings carved into the rugged tan slopes that have been occupied by humans for millennia. Part of the beauty of this place is its rough and unforgiving landscape—the historic center has doubled as ancient Jerusalem in eight motion pictures, in fact, including Passion of the Christ—and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as a European Capital of Culture for 2019. Still, the impression is of a windswept medieval mountain town ready to defend itself from hoards of invaders.

In January, the invaders were two cold and footsore Americans. A few days after New Year’s, a winter gale propelled my friend and I through Matera’s meandering and eerily empty alleys and into a small bar, where glowing lanterns and an array of local beers beckoned.

We shook off our jackets, squeezed around a table and ordered a mix of regional specialties: bruschette with sheep cheeses and wild mushrooms, crunchy taralli crackers,

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and a mound of quick-fried chile peppers served on a strip of smooth amber paper. These dark, glistening, crinkled red tubes were not spicy but both smoky and sweet, with a thin skin that dissolved into crispy shards. Our fingers shamelessly chased these small pieces around the table so as not to lose a bite.

I was told that these peperoni cruschi (“crunchy”) were a particular kind of pepper found only in a few nearby towns, sun-dried and then lightly fried in olive oil. A few days later I returned to the bar to sample them again, only to find it closed.

Fast forward a few months to my daily train ride to work.

This trip I’m nose-deep in a book chronicling another peppery research odyssey. Chasing Chiles: Hot Spots Along the Pepper Trail (Chelsea Green, 2011; $19.95 paperback), a collaborative effort of Kurt Michael Friese (a chef), Gary Paul Nabhan (an ethnobotanist) and Kraig Kraft (an agroecologist), explores how a changing climate and food culture may affect the vast range of chile peppers that

have evolved over the millennia. While many already have disappeared, the book cites the success story of one pepper that spread from an Italian immigrant’s Connecticut garden all across the United States.

The story goes that these plants crossed the Atlantic in 1887 with the Nardello (formerly Nardiello) family, natives of the Basilicata region, in the arch of Italy’s boot. The pepper was passed down from one generation to the next before it was donated to the Seed Savers Exchange—it’s now found in seed catalogues as Jimmy Nardello’s Sweet Italian Frying Pepper. Its thin skin is fiery red, but it lacks capsaicin and therefore tastes light and savory, with only a hint of smoky warmth.

The name was enough to jog memories of my mother’s garden in Warwick, where throughout my childhood she trialed all varieties of heirloom vegetables, from wildly named tomatoes (one of my favorites was Cherokee Purple) to chile peppers. I remembered being bemused by the name “Jimmy Nardello,” wondering who this man was, picturing an eccentric, elderly Italian stooped over a backyard garden not unlike our own. I don’t remember how we ate the peppers—certainly not sun-dried and fried with a cold glass of beer on the side—but I was almost

It’s curious, and a bit ironic, that these peppers, so regionally particular in Italy, have proliferated in the United States. immediately certain that these were the exact same peppers I had savored in Matera.

Delving deeper into this unexpected connection, I confirmed that various iterations of the Nardello family saga consistently place them in Basilicata. I also learned peperoni cruschi are cooked peperoni di Senise, a chile exclusively grown in the municipality of Senise and designated parts of Matera and Potenza in Basilicata.

This specificity is so important that the peppers have been granted I.G.P. (Indication of Geographic Protection) status under the Italian national food certification system, recognized throughout the European Union as a legal standard of quality linked to locale, similar to the designation of origin backing fine cheeses, prosecco and other specialty products.

It’s curious, and a bit ironic, that these peppers, so regionally particular in Italy, have proliferated in the United States, where heirloom varieties are shared by seed banks, swaps and catalogues (including Slow Food’s Ark of Taste,

which added Jimmy Nardello’s pepper to its collection in 2005). No doubt the Nardello family’s efforts to preserve a link with the Old Country played a role in the crop’s successful distribution. Yet, this chile’s real roots are in the Americas, as are the roots of that other Mediterranean culinary necessity, the tomato.

So, despite the geographic protection this chile has acquired, its evolving story hops from Central America (possibly onto one of Columbus’s boats) to mountainous southern Italy, then to the United States (possibly in an immigrant’s pocket), where it evokes memories of a snowy night in a Matera bar and my mother’s garden on a summer afternoon.  Eliot Gee, a Hudson Valley native, is currently working in Rome for an organization that researches agro-biodiversity worldwide. He is particularly focused on sharing knowledge about the health benefits of indigenous and wild edible plants. Contact eliot.gee@gmail.com.

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mea culpa

LAST CALL

text and photos by jerry novesky In the far reaches of northern Quebec there was a tiny village—an outpost, really—of maybe eight or 10 log dwellings. Most of the inhabitants were members of the Huron tribe who guided wealthy sportsmen flown in to hunt bear and moose or fish for massive lake trout, big native brook trout, 50-pound northern pike or the rare and elusive Canadian red trout.

I spent much of one summer there with a cadre of other boys from the states in a sort of wilderness training program. But, unlike the sportsmen, we weren’t flown in. We left New Hampshire and reached camp in three days via train, truck, tractor, canoe and 15-mile hike, in that order.

The Hurons there learned early on what they had to do to survive. Kids started hunting when they were eight or nine years old, trapping chipmunks and squirrels, graduating to larger quarry as they grew up. Everything that was edible or that could be used for baiting traps went into permanently frozen under­ ground root cellars lined with ice cut from the lake in winter and insulated with bundles of grass.

We returned to the village to eat and sleep when we weren’t on a multi-day portage to one of the dozens of small lakes and ponds that dotted the region.

We set out one day on a two-day hike to a remote lake, looking for red trout— my job on that trip, though, was to carry a heavy, oilcloth sack that held a big, leg-hold bear trap. A few days later, I woke at camp to see a bear skin nailed to a shed door. The trap had been set correctly and worked properly. I helped flesh the skin with pieces of honed shoulder bone until it was clean and supple. The dogs got their share of the meat.

I was 14 years old.

Perhaps we edit our memories of people and events so they fit into whatever world view we’ve adopted, or perhaps our memories themselves coalesce and become our world view. I don’t know how that summer in Quebec fits into my life, but it spawned poems, essays, art, a lifelong love of fishing and, above all, love and respect of simpler things and a simpler life. And though I can never go back, in my dreams I return there often. 

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