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A LL J E E P S!

STEAM-POWERED JK WRANGLER IN MOAB!

READY FOR WHEELING MOAB TRAIL REPORTS:

FLAT IRON MESA STEEL BENDER METAL MASHER STRIKE RAVINE BACKWARDS BILL

CHECK OUT THIS STUDEPOWERED FLATTIE! PAGE 18

OFF-ROAD TRAILER BUILDUP SIMPLE AND EASY TAGALONG BUILD

WHEEL SCIENCE BASICS

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU BUY

REBUILD AN ENGINE AT HOME PART 2 OF OUR L134 GO-DEVIL REFRESH

TABLE OF CONTENTS

60

MARCH 2018 COVER SECTION: MOAB TRAIL REPORTS! Flat Iron Mesa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

It’s not just for flatties anymore Steel Bender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A trail that lives up to its name Backwards Bill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wipe-Out Hill the wrong way Metal Masher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Another trail that eats Jeeps Strike Ravine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Canyon crawling at its finest

60

68

62 64 66 68

FEATURES

TECH

Upgraded Flattie Power . . . . . . 18 Only a grandpa would use a Studebaker Steam-Powered JK Wrangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 The Loco Hauk is unique

Wheel Science Basics . . . . . . . . 24 Read this before you buy wheels

Homemade Jeep Truck. . . . . . . .

Taking a TJ Wrangler further

42

Two-Door JK Rock Champ . . . 50 A well-built two-door stands out

Original 4-Cylinder Engine Rebuild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Part 2: Taking a ’46 L134 ’head from rust to rescue Trailer Build in a Flash . . . . . . . .

Smittybilt helps us haul freight Driveshaft Rehash for Vintage Jeeps. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

How to measure and install old-school ’shafts

36 44

66 DEPARTMENTS Trail Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Mailbag. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Dispatch

56

30

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14

Nena Knows Jeeps . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Jeep Shots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 New Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Your Jeep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Marketplace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Sideways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

ON THE COVER

Freelancer Traci Clark caught the Studebakerpowered flattie at the Fall Color Tour in Colorado. Traci also nabbed the steam-powered JK Wrangler while in Moab for EJS.

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MARCH 2018

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TRAIL HEAD

The Wrangler is dead! Long live the Wrangler!

How the new Wrangler JL killed the Wrangler JK

We’ve all been awaiting the coming of the new Jeep Wrangler JL, and it’s finally here. The wraps are off, driving impressions are available, and the truth is now known. Simply put: The new Wrangler JL slays the old standby Jeep JK. That’s not to say that every JK will be put out to pasture, and surely plenty will be around for future upgrades and modifications. It was a great vehicle for the last 10 years, but its reign is over. Now you can see that the new Wrangler is the JK’s hotter, younger sibling, just waiting to hit the trails. We were lucky enough to test them last month, and we’ll be reporting soon in full detail.

Getting to this point wasn’t easy for the hard-core Jeep enthusiasts secreted throughout the FCA mega-company that controls the Jeep brand. The faithful scratched, clawed, and fought the good fight to retain the classic and enduring body-on-frame architecture with solid axles front and rear. Along with the convertible aspect and ever iconic design elements needed on a Jeep, the engineers and design teams drew a line in the sand and forced executive money grubbers to see that a Jeep needs to be a Jeep—not an

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independently suspended hardtop me-too mobile that would catapult the brand into a death spiral that no one could ever escape from.

And that brings us to the new King of 4x4-dom; The Jeep Wrangler JL. From the Sahara and Sport packages to the Rubicon, the four- and two-door models have been completely re-engineered to replace the old JK, not just refresh an old favorite. The Wrangler JL is a bit longer, but the Rubi now sports 33-inch BFGs, and 35s will fit in stock form. It’s also a tad wider on the axles, which reduces the turning radius, and the ramp breakover and approach and departure angles are better as well. The interior is revamped for a flat-ish dash with more space and room, and ergonomically placed control features. The new 2.2L Turbo 4 powerplant matches well with the improved Pentastar 3.6L V6, and we all know what other engines will be coming in later years.

A choice of a full-time transfer case is also a welcome addition to the option list, and the new soft top is a one-handed marvel of modern engineering.

Next month we’ll have a complete writeup with more photos than you can shake a stick at. Let us know what you think!

—Rick Péwé jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

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MAILBAG

By John Cappa jpeditor@jpmagazine.com formats will make sure you see and do the things you’ve always wanted, yet it provides enough time to include things you could have never expected or planned for.

You could start with a large map and pinpoint specific locations you’d like to see. Chain them together with a logical route and give yourself plenty of time between stops to take a break and smell the roses or hit an unexpected trail. Follow social media accounts of the off-road areas you want to see, and reach out to others who frequent those areas.

First and foremost, get the Jeep done!

Good luck with your adventure planning.

Still Willys Wondering

Bucket List Jeeping I am a lifelong Jeep lover, have followed Jp mag, and have actually met Rick Péwé at the Bantam Jeep Fest in Pennsylvania a few years back. I have a pic of Péwé and me as my Jeep forum pic. Anyway, I need some advice. Along with being a Jeep lover, I’m also a minister of a small church in New York. As I get older, I have been planning and dreaming of one thing: My bucket list cross-country Jeep trek on a budget. We little ministers don’t have too much money. I’m building maybe my last Jeep. It’s a ’98 TJ and it will be my first trailer-only rig. I hope to pack up the wife, Jeep, and trailer and start in New York and head all the way to California. I plan on hitting as many famous trails as I can, including all the trails that I have only dreamed about and read about. Now my question is this: How would I plan such a trip? How would I hook up with the right people to wheel with from state to state?

It’s something I hope to do before my life here is over. My Jeep is about 75 percent done. Thanks for your time and passion.

Pastor Scott Kraniak Via email There are a few different ways you can plan a trip like this. You can try and plan it down to the minute, you can see where your adventures take you, or you can use a combination of these tactics.

Over-planning a Jeep-venture usually means you miss out on something. How could you possibly know everything there is to see in a specific area if you’ve never been there? We typically don’t recommend taking that route. On the other end of the spectrum, we have friends who will plan month-long trips overseas with only a hotel room the first and last nights of their visit. Everything else is done on a whim.

This type of unplanned vacation certainly requires a specific type of personality; something that most of us simply don’t possess. Using a combination of these

10 Jp

In the May ’17 Mailbag, Ivan Brown wishes you guys would figure out that the Willys pickup came out in 1946, not 1947.

He states his title shows his truck was first registered in Arizona in February, 1946.

He is the third owner and has met both the previous and also the original owner who bought it in California. In your response to him, you say he is absolutely correct, that the Willys truck was available in 1946. The first year production of the Willys Model 463 2WD station wagon began in early 1946, followed shortly by the Model 463 2WD panel delivery. Those body styles began with serial number 463 10001 and concluded with serial number 463 16534.

No Willys pickup trucks were produced for

1946. The ’47 model 463 station wagons and panel deliveries began with the consecutive serial number at 16535. The ’47 two-wheel-drive pickup truck production began around February 1947, beginning with serial and model number 463 2WD T 10001 and concluded with serial number 12642. The 1947 four-wheel-drive pickup production began shortly after the 2WD production, and began with model 463 4WD 4T 10001 and ended with serial number 12346. If Mr. Brown’s serial number falls anywhere in the number sequences for the 2T or 4T numbers shown, his vehicle is a ’47, not a ’46, especially since Willys truck production did not begin until the 1947 calendar year.

My guess is that in the course of title transfers between the previous owners, an assumption or mistake was made in the numbers and February 1946 was entered.

We are also aware that Willys vehicles have been titled indicating the year they were sold as new, even though the vehicle was actually built the year prior.

My personal ’48 VJ2 Jeepster carries a

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mid-1948 serial number, but apparently sold new in Phoenix in May 1949 and was mistakenly titled as a ’49 model.

Sometimes we have seen even the year before. A ’48 being titled as a ’47. To title a Willys vehicle as a ’46 when production records indicate no vehicles of that body style were even built in the date recorded on the title can only be considered a clerical mistake.

I have been an Arizona resident for over 65 years and dealt with the Arizona Motor Vehicle Division numerous times as a vehicle owner (including numerous Jeep vehicles) and in my occupation as a Sergeant with the Arizona Highway Patrol/ Arizona Department of Public Safety. I have encountered numerous mistakes on vehicle titles.

There are sufficient authoritative sources in the Willys world who will bear out the production records on two- and four-wheel-drive Willys pickup trucks only being built after the calendar year 1947 began and none before.

You guys still put out a great magazine!

Colin Peabody Phoenix, AZ

Road Warrior I’m an avid reader of Jp and enjoy it thoroughly. I recently jotted down a quick thought from a different perspective on the beloved Jeep Wrangler.

While nobody can deny that off-roading is a blast and that most of us dream of taking on the Rubicon Trail, some of us poor suburban daily grinders purchased our Jeeps for their on-road capabilities. As we get older and trade in our Harley motorcycles, some of us look for a replacement vehicle that lets us keep our connection to nature with the wind in our hair (what’s left of it) and road noise in our ears. So, we search. Might it be a convertible muscle car? Nah, that’s just a car without a top!

The real, keep in touch with the outdoors vehicle is the Jeep Wrangler. Talk about a convertible. Pull the doors and remove the top and you have the ultimate convertible and almost a four-wheel motorcycle.

Don’t for a minute think we don’t spend our fair share of time and money fixing these on-road warriors up, because we do!

We just take a slightly different approach.

Our money is spent building road-worthy monsters with a premium sound system and accessories that enhance our everyday driving. We start by putting in new LED headlights and reverse lights. (How can anyone see with the stock lights?)

Then we have to jack it up a few inches so we can fit bigger tires and wheels. After all, we can’t be outdone or looked down on by the pickup trucks! We follow that up by getting rid of the stock plastic bumpers and replacing them with nice, damagecausing metal ones, also known as don’t get too close to me in traffic bumpers.

While we’re at it, we might as well throw a winch on the front. You never know who

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MAILBAG you’ll need to pull from a ditch or which wheeling friends you’ll have to rescue.

Naturally, you’ll need to have a rear bumper that takes the spare tire weight off of the tailgate. Then we can add the appropriate skidplates and armor below for road hazards and bad weather. Lastly, we add a few extra parts and pieces to personalize our Jeeps, because we can. Now you have the ultimate on-road vehicle for tackling and enjoying the everyday battle with the other humans on our godforsaken highways and byways.

Don’t get us suburban road warriors wrong. We still look for bumpy and muddy trails and sit around making plans for a trail ride, but not all of us are fortunate enough to live in the great wheeling spots of this good ol’ USA that we read about in Jp. Finally, keep in mind we still have to drive our Jeeps to work on Monday morning!

Warren Kmetz Via email

Roped In I enjoy the Nena Knows Jeeps column; I actually enjoy the whole magazine.

Last year, I purchased my first winch after much research. I thought I had it all planned out so well, but I ended up changing my mounting system and bumper after just a few uses. So, when I read the October ’17 Nena Knows Jeeps concerning winch ropes, I got a bit confused. Since my research was still fresh in my mind, I thought I remembered that synthetic rope users should use the hawse fairleads, and wire rope users should use the roller fairleads. Maybe I am misremembering it, or maybe it really doesn’t matter, but I thought I’d ask you for clarification.

Mark Houston Kansas City, MO Winch rope popularity has increased immensely over the last decade or so.

Many new winch rope suppliers surfaced to capitalize on that consumer demand.

Unfortunately, not all winch ropes are equal, and neither are the manufacturer’s recommendations for a winch rope fairlead. Adding to the confusion is a multitude of aftermarket recovery parts that cater to the winch rope market. Knowing what’s right for your winch rope can be quite the head-scratcher.

One of the bigger problems we see is adding a winch rope to a recovery system that has been run with a wire cable. The winch drum, fairlead, and even your snatch block can become scarred and burred by the wire cable. The rough surfaces are no big deal for the wire cable, but they can eat through a synthetic winch rope under load if not properly addressed.

Before inserting a winch rope into a used recovery system, inspect all the surfaces very carefully, including the rollers on the fairlead. You may need to smooth the rollers and winch drum with a sander.

Make sure all of the fairlead rollers still roll smoothly. Unfortunately, it will be difficult if not impossible to sand the burrs off of a

12 Jp

well-used snatch block, so it’s usually better to simply replace it when switching from wire cable to a synthetic rope. ARB (arbusa. com) offers a lightweight snatch block with a polymer pulley wheel that won’t scar and chew into your winch rope. It can be used with wire cable or synthetic rope.

Having said all that, some companies such as Warn (warn.com) require the use of an aluminum hawse fairlead with its Spydura synthetic rope. As with any winch fairlead application, make sure that the bumper or mounting plate on the backside of the fairlead is not making contact with the rope or cable. You should have 3⁄8 - to 1 ⁄2 -inch of clearance here.

Master Pull (masterpull.com) has been in the synthetic winch rope market longer than most companies, and the company has its own recommendations. Master Pull generally recommends a new fairlead with the installation of a new winch rope. An aluminum hawse fairlead is said to work very well because it provides a smooth surface that will not damage the rope. Cast steel hawse fairleads do not have a smooth enough surface for synthetic rope and are not recommended. The company also says that the use of a steel roller fairlead is perfectly fine as long as the rollers are smooth and not burred or gouged. Master Pull does not recommend the use of older roller fairleads that do not have overlapping rollers. The gaps in the corners of the fairlead could cause a winch rope to get caught up and damaged.

If your steel rollers are damaged and you just don’t like the idea of a hawse fairlead, Daystar (daystarweb.com) offers fairlead rollers made from polyurethane.

They replace the steel rollers on any conventional roller fairlead so you can retain the benefits of a roller fairlead while running a synthetic winch rope.

Ultimately, there are many different ways to damage a synthetic winch rope or steel cable. Proper use, correctly rewinding the line on the drum after each use, and staying on top of maintenance will help make sure your synthetic rope or steel cable lives a long life.

Fire Suppression Revisited A word of caution to your readers: in Mailbag (Dec. ’17) you stated that “You could very easily install a solenoid or actuator, switch, hardline, and CO2 nozzle onto your Power Tank and plumb it into the engine compartment to use as a low-buck fire suppression system.”

This would not work the way that you might think. The Power Tank and other similar brands are designed to provide a pressurized gas supply for air tools and inflating tires. The CO2 in the tank is a liquid on the bottom with CO2 vapor or gas at the top. It’s that CO2 gas that is powering the tools and inflating the tires. CO2 fire suppression system tanks have a different design. They have a tube

jpmagazine.com

extending to the bottom of the tank. The vapor at the top of the tank forces the liquid CO2 up the tube and out the nozzle where it then expands over 500 times into CO2 gas. It’s this massive amount of CO2 gas that disperses the oxygen and extinguishes the fire. Trying this with a Power Tank you would only be dispersing 1⁄500th the volume of CO2 gas per second. It would not work, even if you mounted the Power Tank upside down.

The regulators on Power Tanks are not designed to dispense liquid CO2.

Installing a properly designed fire suppression system like those from Safecraft is still a good idea and I plan on doing that myself when I get to it on my long wish list.

Bob Campbell VP High Desert 4 Wheelers Via email Thanks for the fire suppression system lesson. We are in agreement, the Power Tank (powertank.com) is not designed for use as a fire suppression system. An actual fire suppression system would be a better choice than plumbing the Power Tank into a fire suppression system. Our response included “These kits (fire suppression) would likely work much better than adapting a system to your Power Tank.”

But, it could be done and would certainly provide better results than having no fire suppression system at all. A small fire could probably be extinguished given the confined space of an engine compartment. However, if a large, hot fire were to start, a true fire suppression system would be a much better choice.

Write Us! Got a question or comment about Jp Magazine or the village idiots at the helm?

Drop us a line. Don’t forget to include your full name and where you’re from or we’ll make fun of you. Actually, we may make fun of you anyway. Keep it short and to the point or we’ll hack and chop your letter as we please. We get a lot of mail, but we read every letter. Unfortunately, we can’t print or personally answer every request.

We’re too busy surfing the Internet on the company dime. Digital images should be no less than 1,600 by 1,200 pixels (or 2 megapixels) and should be saved as aTIFF, an EPS, or a maximum-quality JPEG file.

Write to: Jp Magazine, Editor 831 S. Douglas St. El Segundo, CA 90245 Email to: jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

DISPATCH

By Tori Tellem

COURTESY OF UCLA ATHLETICS

jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Industry News

• Velocity Network is now airing Lund

Jeep News & Rumors

• Did Jeep build an obstacle course, and then give employees of the Toledo plant the keys to Wranglers so that they could go faux–off-road and better understand the product?

• Is Jeep the only American vehicle brand that’s doing well in Japan?

• What Jeep wants you to know: “Breakout artist Halsey and three emerging renegade artists—Molly Kate Kestner (Atlantic Records), Uri Grey, and Chloe Nixon—are featured in a new Jeep-brand marketing campaign for the Jeep Renegade that celebrates the spirit of Renegades on the Rise—women with a quest to find their voices, even if it breaks the mold.” See the cheesy, 1980s-vibe photo supporting this announcement.

• So, the Jeep Wrangler JL’s production might be starting immediately as the calendar turns to 2018?

• Rumor: The Wrangler will get a 368hp four-banger.

• Rumor: That’s probably completely untrue.

• Alexa for the vehicle? The ’18 Cherokee Latitude will get Amazon Alexa and Echo Dot capabilities as part of Uconnect Access. This will mean being able to voice-demand that the engine start and stop and the doors lock and unlock, among other things.

14 Jp

International Truck & Jeep Show at 8:00 a.m. Sundays. If you know the name Sam Mahdavi as a Jeep builder, then you’ll know the host. It’s all about road trips, events, and installs. Find the schedule here: bit.ly/2hBeuFl. • New brand ambassador for Daystar: Ian Johnson.

• Two companies scored wins for lawsuits accusing companies of producing counterfeit parts based on their products.

The winners: Fab Fours and Omix-ADA. • Interesting new product if you’re wanting a quick way to find high-pressure leaks (think: turbo and exhaust). It’s the MotorVac Cool Smoke HP. It’s digital technology for thick smoke and contaminant-free UV dye for finding the

precise location of the leak. Learn more at cpsproducts.com/automotive.

• Holley will build a $9.15 million facility in Franklin, Kentucky.

• The Official Tire of UCLA Athletics and the Rose Bowl is Toyo Tire. It’s a threeyear partnership.

• Yokohama planted 2,000 new trees at the Mississippi factory for the Yokohama Forever Forest project that started in 2007 and is meant for absorbing carbon dioxide.

• New name for Mastercraft: 30Racing.

• The recent collaboration between Bestop and the American Cancer Society (ACS) gave owners of Jeeps an opportunity to win Bestop soft tops embroidered for breast cancer awareness. The full price of the raffle tickets was donated to ACS, and Bestop also matched that, for a donation of $6,234 to ACS.

Auto Graphs Quote Without Story

“It’s incorrect to assume that FCA’s future hinges on doing a deal.”

—Fiat Chrysler’s Sergio Marchionne, according to The Detroit News, denying sale of the Jeep brand to Great Wall Motor Co. jpmagazine.com

• An all-electric future? GM is throwing its weight in that direction.

• Uber has created the Uber Lounge as a dedicated pickup and dropoff area—great news if you’re borderline road-raging over Uber drivers currently stopping anywhere they please on streets to do those tasks. Bad news if said street is not part of a Westfield shopping center, since that’s the new partnership and where this convenient feature will exist.

MARCH 2018

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DISPATCH • 2016 stats are in for fatal traffic crash data. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said 37,461 deaths were recorded, up 5.6 percent from 2015.

Fatalities caused by distracted driving and sleepy driving were actually down, but fatalities for reckless behavior— including not wearing seatbelt, alcohol, and speeding—were up. Pedestrian deaths are at the highest since 1990.

• Speaking of road rage, next up? Humans vs. autonomous vehicles. They have been programmed to abide by the rules

of the road. Humans? They don’t follow signs or laws. And robots do not like that.

And humans don’t like these law-abiding robots. Stay tuned.

• A survey via Hum by Verizon (hum. com, regarding vehicle connectedness) found that 57 percent of teen drivers would prefer to learn driving skills from someone other than a parent or guardian, and 77 percent said their biggest worries are accidents. 53 percent feel that way about aggressive drivers. And 51 percent wished they’d learned more about driving in inclement weather, while 47 percent regret not getting educated in tire changing. Did you hear that, driver’s ed classes?

• If you aren’t already familiar with the phrase “walking urbanism,” get familiar with this phrase as it relates to cities creating a more walking-friendly environment. For example, Seoul’s Seoullo 7017 is a pedestrian walkway built on an overpass, and already 5,000,000 people have been there.

• FUV…that’s the nickname for the Ferrari SUV, confirmed for production.

Catch these shows on the Motor Trend OnDemand channel this month. motortrendondemand.com Dec 22 • Auto Mundial • FIM Freestyle MX World Championship, Wenzhou, China • Motorsport Mundial • Roadkill, Episode 73 Dec 26 • Tuner Battle Week Dec 27 • Tuner Battle Week Dec 28 • Tuner Battle Week Dec 29 • Auto Mundial • Motorsport Mundial • Tuner Battle Week • Junkyard Gold, Episode 3 Dec 30 • Tuner Battle Week Jan 1 • Roadkill Garage, Episode 26 Jan 3 • Engine Masters, Episode 30 Jan 5 • Put Up or Shut Up, Episode 7 Jan 10 • Ignition, Episode 187 Jan 12 • Dirt Every Day, Episode 72 Jan 15 • Hot Rod Garage, Episode 61 Jan 17 • Head 2 Head, Episode 97 Jan 22 • Roadkill, Episode 74 Jan 26 • Junkyard Gold, Episode 4 Jan 29 • Roadkill Garage, Episode 26 Jan 31 • Engine Masters, Episode 31 Feb 2 • Put Up or Shut Up, Episode 8 Feb 5 • Roadkill, Episode 75 Feb 7 • Ignition, Episode 188 Feb 9 • Dirt Every Day, Episode 73 Feb 12 • Hot Rod Garage, Episode 62 Feb 14 • Head 2 Head, Episode 98 Feb 19 • Roadkill, Episode 76 Feb 23 • Junkyard Gold, Episode 5 Feb 26 • Roadkill Garage, Episode 27 Feb 28 • Engine Masters, Episode 32 Mar 2 • Put Up or Shut Up, Episode 9 Original programming in italics.

Program information subject to change.

Cummins Offering New Diesel Crate Engine (A Jeep Got the First One)

The Rezvani Tank is a Jeep Wrangler The Rezvani Tank is an “extreme utility vehicle” and “tactical urban vehicle” (both phrases are used by Rezvani), featuring a 3.6L V-6 or optional 6.4L V-8 (hello, Hemi), which puts out 500 hp. The options list includes two different off-road packages (both with 6 inches of lift, Dynatrac axles, 37s, and Fox shocks) and ballistic armor. Starting price: $178,000. It’s based off the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (mainly, a modified frame). Check it out for yourself: rezvanimotors.com/rezvani-tank.

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Cummins has finally revealed its first crate engine, the R2.8, a 2.8L four-cylinder turbodiesel worth 161 horses and 267 lb-ft of torque. Pricing is $8,999, and it’s the first in the company’s Repower Crate Engine series. The first Jeep to get this engine?

Not yours. More than a year ago, Cummins worked with Axis Industries to put one in a Wrangler, and testing included 20,000 miles in that time. Go to the Axis Industries Facebook page to hear the Jeep fire up. And await more crates coming soon from Cummins.

Also, while we’re talking Cummins, it has joined forces with Achates to engineer a new Advanced Combat Engine for the Department of Defense. The project will be developed with the work of the U.S. Army Tank Automotive Research, Development and Engineering Center.

jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

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7.5 Inch 13.5 Inch 21.5 Inch 50 Inch

Wonder what would happen if you crossed a Jeep CJ-2A and a Studebaker? What would Grandpa Bob do?

By Traci Clark jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Traci Clark

What would Grandpa Bob do if he found a little spare cash?

Buy something to tinker with, of course. When Grandpa Bob passed away, he left his grandson Stephen Rudy from Conifer, Colorado, a bit of extra coin, which Stephen used to find the perfect little project to build in honor of his grandfather. When Stephen started this search, the main criteria were floorboards and a title. The finished project, a 1947 CJ-2A affectionately known as the Stude-aWillys, would make Gramps proud.

The search didn’t take Stephen very far from home. The little gem was just a few miles up the road sitting abandoned in a mountain meadow. It barely ran, but most of the parts were there, and it met his two main requirements. Several months of sweat equity and a few modifications later he had a great trail rig—in which he attends several of the flatfender events around Colorado.

Its exterior is all Willys, however, when you hear it run there is a little different ring to it. Most common engine conversions for this era of Jeep lean toward the Chevy 4.3L V-6, but there is

Stude-a-Wil

something more intriguing under this hood. In it beats the heart of a Champion: a Studebaker Model 6-170 Champion six-cylinder, to be exact. This engine has been beefed up a bit to perform at high altitude where the air is thin. At lower elevations, it might produce as much as 100 horsepower; at elevations above 8,000 feet, it is estimated more in the neighborhood of 60 to 70 hp. Even with horsepower that averages close to the age of most who may have driven a Champion, the CJ-2A gets up and goes.

Read on for all the details.

llys

The heart of a Champion or a Weasel? A little careful trimming of the firewall was needed to fit the Studebaker Model 6-170 Champion straight-six originally found in the WWII Studebaker M29 Weasel. This engine bolts easily to the T90A transmission and Dana 18 transfer case combo, but a few other mods needed to be made to accommodate the length of the block. Custom motor mounts were built, and the front crossmember was removed and replaced with C-channel so the new four-row radiator could be moved closer to the grille and leave enough room for the fan.

STUDE-A-WILLYS

The radiator outlet had to be moved to the other side of the tank. Intake/exhaust, starter, and generator are also on the opposite side of the original L134 “Go-Devil” engine. This situation required an “interesting” throttle linkage to be crafted. The engine was bored 0.40 over by the previous owner, and Stephen replaced the original head with a shaved Studebaker Lark head for a little higher 8.5:1 compression ratio to help deal with thin-air life at elevation. The handmade cloth-covered plug wires with exposed Rajah screw-down terminals are a blast from the past.

White Kelsey-Hayes slotted civilian wheels set off the Colonial Red RustOleum red exterior color. STA Super Traxion 6.50-16LT tires provide great traction in all weather and trail conditions. Dualmatic locking hubs keep that vintage vibe going. The frame horns have been boxed, and the home-fab “Farm-tough 2000” front bumper houses the PTO-driven homemade winch. The steering box is a Ross cam and lever style.

One of the things that caught our interest, aside from the engine conversion, was the PTO-driven winch setup. The rear output PTO was refitted with a sprocket that runs down through a roller chain to a shaft that is supported by pillow blocks. U-joints and square-shaped driveshafts transfer the torque to the handmade winch. A skidplate installed prior to Stephen purchasing the Willys protects the oil pan, T90A transmission, and Dana 18 transfer case.

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Plush interior comfort isn’t the idea when it comes to owning an old Willys. The seats are naturally heated by the power of the sun, so care must be observed in summer if you hop in wearing shorts. Stephen added a couple of Stewart Warner gauges to the dash panel along with the stock gauges to monitor oil pressure, temperature, vacuum, and fuel consumption.

jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

Why This Jeep?

There are some very interesting features on this little Willys.

The homemade PTO winch setup is extremely well thought out and functional. Today almost everything is a pre-fab bolt-on accessory that some variation of is readily available from any aftermarket supplier. The ingenuity behind the design and the pride of this rig that is evident in every weld speaks of true craftsmanship. It was made to withstand the test of time.

HARD FACTS Vehicle: ’47 Willys CJ-2A Engine: Studebaker Model 6-170

The Dana 25 front axle is original equipment.

A Powr-Lok limited-slip differential was added to help the 5.38 gears on some of the steep, loose climbs Stephen often encounters when wheeling in Colorado. He believes these are the original leaf springs from 1947. KYB Excel G gas shocks cushion the bounce a bit.

Champion six-cylinder (WWII Studebaker M29 Weasel) Transmission: Spicer T90A Transfer Case: Dana 18 Suspension: Stock leaf springs and KYB Excel G shocks Axles: Dana 25, 5.38 gears, Powr-Lok LSD, Dualmatic locking hubs (front); Dana 41, 5.38 gears, Lock-Right (rear) Wheels: Kelsey-Hayes slotted civilian Tires: 6.50-16 STA Super Traxion

When Stephen bought the little Willys, a previous owner had given the Dana 41 the old “Lincoln Locker” treatment. The welded spider gears were removed, and Stephen had planned to leave it stock—until he found out how easy it was to get stuck in a minor amount of snow. Now a Lock Right locker and 5.38s in the rear help this little flattie go just about anywhere.

Stephen and Stude-a-Willys have attended several flattie gatherings in Colorado—a favorite being the annual Fall Color Tour.

Future additions to this little sweetheart include returning the windshield to the stock configuration. Stephen also said he needs to break down, give in, and get a soft top for those cold September trail rides.

MARCH 2018

jpmagazine.com

Jp 21

Wheels make Jeep life go ’round—here’s what you should know when looking for your next set of rims

By Stuart A. Bourdon jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Stuart A. Bourdon and the Manufacturers

Wheels, rims, donuts, hoops, rollers, or whatever you call them—they are a must on your Jeep, or it’s not going anywhere. More importantly, the right wheels are a must, and we don’t just mean the bolt pattern.

Depending upon the tires you expect to run, the manner in which your Jeep has been modified, and the terrain you expect to encounter, there are a host of other things you need to know about the wheels you’re thinking of bolting to your Jeep’s axles.

We’ll discuss the most common types of wheels (construction and material),

the pros and cons of each, and give you an overview of how important the diameter, offset, and backspacing can be. We’ll give you the basic information needed to make intelligent choices. From that point it’s up to you—color and style are a personal thing.

Unless you’re interested in steelies for that plain-Jane look and bottomdollar price tag, almost all the wheels you’re probably going to be looking at for your 4x4 are made from aluminum alloy. Aluminum wheels can be forged or cast, and there are even different types of casting and forging methods.

Construction Forged: Monoblock forged aluminum wheels tend to be lighter and stronger than other wheel build types, when comparing same-size wheels, and are most often used for high performance applications.

These are one-piece wheels that are forged (deforming metal into a predetermined shape using forging dies under extreme pressure) from a solid billet of aluminum.

These are very sturdy, and on the pricey end of the spectrum.

There are a few types of forging used for wheels. Hot forging (usually in the 300 to 600 degree Celsius range for aluminum alloys) is more common. Cold forging is

done below the metal’s recrystallization temperature to retain its microscopic grain structure, allowing for increased dimensional control and better overall surface finish, which means that little or no finish work is needed during final fabrication of the wheel. Heat treating or “tempering” is often done when finishing cold-forged wheels.

Forged two-piece wheels are made of a forged center welded to a forged outer barrel. This construction allows for a very customizable wheel with multiple widths and backspaces available. Forged three-piece wheels are made with a forged center bolted to a forged inner and outer barrel. This wheel style is primarily used on luxury and exotic applications, and allows for the most customization in size, offset, and finishes.

Billet: Although the descriptors billet- and monoblock-forged are sometimes used interchangeably, there are wheel makers that offer one-piece wheels CNC-cut from an aluminum log. These are often referred to as billet wheels, and they can be wallet-depleting.

There are a variety of monoblockforged wheels available, and they are typically more expensive than multi-piece forged wheels. A number of off-road racing

Wheel Science Read before you buy rims A finished barrel for a two-piece wheel is spun at high speed and heated on a purpose-built jig in the Wheel Pros Custom Shop, allowing it to easily accept the center section. After cooling and QC, the two parts are welded together.

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jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

and rockcrawling competitors use monoblocks, and they have become attractive to hard-core recreational off-roaders too.

Flow Forging: This process is also referred to as Spun-Rim, Flow-Forming, and Rim-Rolling. The barrel of a low-pressure cast wheel is heated and spun, while steel rollers under high pressure form the rim. This creates a wheel rim area with strength similar to a forged wheel, but at a lower cost.

Cast: One-piece cast aluminum wheels are the most common and affordable option because they can be produced in large quantities. These wheels have set sizes and widths, so they are the least customizable. Some manufacturers stock these as “blanks� with no bolt pattern, allowing them to be drilled based on demand. That keeps inventory manageable and helps control costs.

There are a few different casting methods. The most common are gravity casting, low-pressure casting, and highpressure casting. Gravity casting is just as it sounds, the molten aluminum is poured directly into the mold. This method creates a casting that is less dense than some other processes, and frequently a higher weight for desired strength. In low-pressure casting, the molten aluminum is forced

This is how a forged wheel begins. This solid aluminum billet comes from the foundry in rough form (top), but must be cleaned and prepped for forging (above).

A pallet full of finished forged aluminum monoblock wheels, milled and bored, are ready for final inspection prior to shipping out.

These monoblock aluminum wheels have reached the stage in the forging process at which they are ready for final milling and bolt and hub hole boring.

Casting molds are made of machined sections of steel. When all the pieces come together, a cavity is formed into which the molten aluminum is poured. This is what is known as a counter-pressure casting mold.

It’s pressurized with molten aluminum, but because gravity begins the process, the mold is positioned vertically. The technician is spraying a releasing agent on the upper part of the casting mold to keep the hot aluminum wheel casting from sticking to the mold.

MARCH 2018

jpmagazine.com

Jp 25

WHEEL SCIENCE

Backspacing and offset are sometimes confused, but are not the same. Some wheels will have offset numbers molded or stamped into them. If the wheels you’re looking at do not offer that information, this diagram of a wheel cross section shows how the two measurements are derived. Offset is the backspacing minus the centerline. The centerline is one-half of the overall outside width of the wheel. If the centerline is greater than the backspacing, it’s a negative offset; less than the backspacing, it’s a positive offset.

The amount of work that it takes to get a cast aluminum wheel ready to ship is plain to see in this side-by-side comparison photo of a newly cast wheel ready for clean up (left), and the result of grinding and polishing (right).

Measuring backspacing is pretty easy.

Place a straightedge across the outside surface of the inboard rim, and use a ruler to measure the distance from the hub mating surface on the back of the wheel (shown here) to your straightedge.

into the mold. The pressure fills the mold faster and produces a denser and stronger wheel. Some companies offer highpressure cast wheels, but that additional density and strength comes with a cost.

Two-piece cast wheels are also widely available. These are made with a cast center bolted to a cast outer barrel. This construction allows for custom finishes, like hydro-dipped camouflage. The cast three-piece weld design has a number of offerings, mostly hot rod and vintage application wheels. These are made from a cast center welded to a forged outer barrel. Like two-piece forged wheels, these are very customizable with a huge range of sizes and offsets that can be built.

Wheel Dimensions Bolt pattern, center hub bore diameter, wheel diameter, width, backspacing, and 26 Jp

Measuring wheel bolt pattern size on a wheel with an even number of bolts is simple, just measure from two opposing bolt holes. On odd-number bolt patterns, such as this fivelug wheel, measure from a hole on one side to either of the holes on the opposing side of the bolt circle that are slightly off-angle from the lug or hole you started from.

An often overlooked but incredibly important part of any wheel choice is load rating. All wheels will have their weight rating molded or stamped into the inside. You build up your Jeep and add hundreds of pounds to its weight. Don’t shortchange your build with wheels that are not rated to handle the maximum gross vehicle rating of your Jeep.

Each wheel is rated for what it will carry, so if you have four 2,500-pound rated wheels, you have a Jeep JKU’s maximum gross vehicle weight rating more than covered.

offset are things you need to know when looking at wheels for your Jeep. The bolt pattern and center hole size must match the axle hubs for your specific vehicle.

Your choices really come in relation to the rest of these dimensions on a wheel.

Width: Wheel width comes in ranges that the manufacturer suggests for a certain tire width. Go to the wide end of that spectrum and it can help spread out the tire’s contact patch, but also make it easier to peel off the rim at low tire pressures. Running tires on too wide a wheel also means less sidewall flex to soak up bumps.

Backspacing: Most wheels are offered in several choices of backspacing. Greater backspacing than your stock wheel will bring the wheel and tire farther inward, less-than-stock backspacing pushes the wheel farther outside. Too

much backspacing can create wheel clearance problems with front suspension components when the steering wheel is turned to full lock, and tires may rub on the inner fenders. Backspacing can be easily measured on a wheel using a tape measure or ruler and a straightedge.

Offset: A wheel’s mounting surface centered in the wheel width has zero offset. A positive offset means the mounting surface is closer to the outboard rim of the wheel, making the wheel tuck farther in. A wheel with a negative offset means the mounting surface is closer to the inboard wheel rim, so that the wheel sits farther outside. In most applications, larger (almost always wider than stock) tires need decreased backspacing or less (negative) offset when compared to stock to keep the new tires from having conflicts with components.

jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

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WHEEL SCIENCE

We like to keep our wheels at about half the diameter of the tire to be run (20s for 40s, 17s for 35s, and 15s for 30s), although we often run 15s on 35s. This simple formula seems to work out well, keeping the sidewall tall enough to be flexible off-road, but not squirmy on the highway.

Another look we saw lots of during the 2017 SEMA Show was typified by the low-pressure cast aluminum Arsenal from Black Rhino. It features a modern military styling that has its appeal. What do you think? Write to us at jpeditor@jpmagazine.com about what you look for in a wheel.

In case you hadn’t noticed, bronze-colored wheels are coming on strong, and have become a very popular treatment for a Jeep wheel. This forged aluminum monoblock beadlock from KMC XD is a perfect example. The 2017 SEMA Show had wall-to-wall wheels, and lots of them were sporting bronze in one way or another.

Who knows what next year’s trend will be?

Black wheels are like a tuxedo or a leather jacket; like Carey Grant or Marlon Brando.

They look good under any circumstances, and on just about any color Jeep. As a matter of fact, we’ve seen a set of great-looking black wheels like these cast aluminum Mickey Thompson Sidebiter Lock rims class up an otherwise ordinary build.

loaded with people and gear for a trip into the wild. Make sure the wheels you bolt up are capable of handling the chore by multiplying the load rating of the wheel by four. That total load rating number must be greater than the maximum load rating of your vehicle.

tall enough for good flex and soaking up bumps, yet not so tall that the tire is excessively squirmy with too much deflection on the highway.

Wheel width can also play a part in tire performance. It affects the sidewall and tread shape, and how they flex against the terrain. The wheel width will also determine the amount of sidewall bulge beyond the wheel edge. In general, wider wheels will offer more footprint and flotation for the given tire, as opposed to using a narrow wheel. However, narrow wheels typically allow you to run lower air pressure without pushing the tire off the wheel bead.

Beadlocks We can’t talk about wheels and then walk away without bringing up beadlocks. Really meant for hard-core off-roading like racing and rockcrawling, beadlocks have become a part of the Jeep thing. Or we should say that there are a lot of wheels with simulated beadlock rims on the market, and some with real beadlocks. In our opinion, if you like the look, then bust out and go for the real thing. And not all beadlocks are alike. There are some that feature recessed mounting holes to protect the ring’s bolts. Some beadlock wheels are cast; some are forged. Some companies offer DIY beadlock conversions. Some beadlocks are considered DOT-compliant (street legal), while others are for off-road use only. Do your research; call the manufacturer and ask.

The nice thing is that most aftermarket suspension manufacturers can offer recommended wheel sizes, backspacing, and offset for your specific vehicle application when using their products.

You will do well talking to the suspension company you’re considering sharing your wealth with before buying new wheels.

Bolt Pattern: If you don’t know the bolt circle on a wheel you’re looking at, or the axle’s bolt circle, you can measure the bolt circle with a tape measure or a ruler.

For 4-, 6-, or 8-bolt patterns, measure the distance between a stud or hole on one side of the bolt circle and the farthest stud or bolt on the opposite side of the bolt circle. On five-lug wheels, measure from a stud or hole on one side to either of the studs or holes on the opposite side of the bolt circle that are slightly off-angle from the lug or hole you started from. A factory JK is 5 inches across a 5-bolt pattern, and referred to as 5-on-5.

Load Rating: Extremely important is the load rating of the wheel you’re looking at. You never want to downgrade when procuring new wheels for your ride. Wheels designed for Jeeps range anywhere from about 2,000 to 3,500 pounds. The more you build up your rig, the more weight gets added to it.

Assuming the stock axles are kept, at some point you will be getting close to the vehicle’s GVWR when it’s fully 28 Jp

Choices A good rule of thumb we use when choosing wheels for off-road use is to look at wheels that are about half the diameter of the tire to be run (20s for 40s, 17s for 35s, and 15s for 30s), although we often run 15s on 35s. This keeps sidewall height

Sources American Racing Performance Wheels, americanracing.com ATX Series Wheels, atxwheels.com Black Rhino Wheels, 800/4799723, blackrhinowheels.com Center Line Alloy Wheels, 877/283-6347, centerlinewheels.com Dick Cepek Tires & Wheels, 800/222-9092, dickcepek.com Fuel Off-Road Wheels, fueloffroad.com jpmagazine.com

Gear Alloy Wheels, 714/990-2233, gearalloy.com KMC Wheels, kmcwheels.com Method Race Wheels, 866/7798604, methodracewheels.com Mickey Thompson Tires & Wheels, 800/222-9092, mickeythompsontires.com Pro Comp, 800/776-0767, procompusa.com TIS/Dropstar Wheels, 877/2839433, tiswheels.com Ultra Wheel Company, 800/3214456, ultrawheel.com MARCH 2018

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A E V – C O N V E R S I O N S . C O M

“Hell on wheels” doesn’t begin to describe the latest creation by Kenny Hauk, owner of Hauk Designs and River Raider Off-Road in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania. This faux locomotive weighs in at six tons—a mere 12,000 pounds of smoke-and-steam-belching Jeep Wrangler. When we saw it chug into Moab, Utah, during Easter Jeep Safari we knew we needed a closer look.

At first glance, some might think this 2008 Wrangler Unlimited may have been rear ended by a steam engine, but there is much more to this Jeep than meets the eye. Watching Kenny and the crew bring it to life is an experience that will stay with you for a very long time. You hear the burner ignite, then a faint shimmer of heat is detected above what appears to be a giant rolling barbeque on 41.5-inch Pit Bull Rockers. Slowly the black coil of smoke increases. A look to the hood shows small wisps of steam; then it lurches to life.

Imagine the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang movie

Steam-powered 6x6 Wrangler

By Traci Clark jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Traci Clark, Tom Kimmel, and Rick Péwé

Loco Hauk 30 Jp

jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

Stretched 51 inches to accommodate the additional pass-through axle and distribute the weight of this Jeep, the Loco Hauk has an impressive 165-inch wheelbase. 41.5x13.50R17 Pit Bull Rocker tires on Grid Off-Road GD-1 wheels support the massive weight. The body is 3 ⁄16 -inch steel armor and a modified Star Fabricating hardtop. Satin Black PPG paint and gold leaf hand-painted lettering give this Jeep the authentic locomotive appearance from the Old West. The Hauk Design team installed a Rugged Ridge grille with a functional seven-pipe oil reservoir to maintain the “7-slot” Jeep grille look. A modified River Raider Rock Crawler series front bumper and a Warn Zeon 12-S winch with beefy tow hooks give it that tough Wild West vibe. Vision X headlights were added, and these are actual modern locomotive 48-volt lights.

LOCO HAUK from your childhood, but on a grander scale, as it chugs along like a freight train.

Under the hood of this behemoth is what some may consider a relatively tiny engine—a 100ci V-4 single-acting, trunk-piston, poppet-valve uniflow steam engine. The design is based on the center two throws of a small-block 272ci Ford crankshaft. This engine was designed and built by Charles Keen for the Keen Steamliner 2 automobile sometime around 1960. It is capable of 130 to 140 horsepower. While that’s not many horses under the hood, it does generate roughly 2,500 foot-pounds of torque. The factory NSG370 6-speed manual transmission and NP241 transfer case were left in play, but the engine only allows for one high forward, one low forward, and one reverse gear. Loco Hauk is capable of speeds between 50 and 60 mph, and it is most efficient at a boiler pressure of 800 The engine was designed and made by Charlie Keen out of Madison, Wisconsin, around 1960.

The cylinders are individual castings and the crankcase is cast aluminum. The crankshaft is the center two throws of a small-block Ford engine, so it is a flat crank, (otherwise known as a 180-degree crank). When made into a V-4 with a flat crank it is self-starting, which is what everyone wants in a steam engine. With a V-4 and flat crank, there is one piston at TDC (top dead center), one at BDC (bottom dead center), with the other two right at mid-stroke; one going up and one going down. At that point only the one piston going down will be able to make power. Once it gets off of TDC then the next piston will start making power.

HARD FACTS trunk-piston, poppet-valve uniflow steam engine Transmission: NSG370 6-speed manual Transfer Case: NP241 Suspension: BDS 4-inch 4-link and Fox shocks Axles: TeraFlex D60, 3.73 gears, Auburn Gear Max Lock locker (front); Ford 9-inch pass-through axle 3.70 gears (mid drive axle); TeraFlex D60, 3.73 gears, Auburn Gear Max Lock locker (rear) Steering: Modified Toyota steering box with Redneck Ram hydraulic assist Wheels: Grid Off-Road GD-1 Tires: 41.5x13.50R17 Pit Bull Rocker

Steam Science A steam power system has many components, and so it is not the engine itself that is complex to build. There is the burner and the boiler (or steam generator, as we like to say). The steam flow is intake from a poppet-valve, cam-controlled setup like a flat-head with the poppet valve right beside the head and a small channel taking steam from underneath the valve into the clearance volume. The exhaust is exactly like a two-cycle engine with ports drilled into the side of the cylinder at BDC (bottom dead center). About 30 percent of the steam stays in the cylinder after the pistons close off the exhaust ports. This is then compressed up to about boiler pressure, depending on the clearance volume, and this is fine for efficiency reasons. There are twice the power strokes per revolution in this steam engine than in a four-cycle engine, so it only needs half the displacement. Steam at about 800 psi and 800 degrees F has

32 Jp

The burner is a 20-gallon per hour kerosene pressure atomizing nozzle burner with a big DC motor turning a centrifugal fan to provide air. The boiler is a Babcock & Wilcox design.

The B&W design has 2-inch diameter tubes welded up at an angle because it is a natural circulation boiler. It is also a water level boiler, meaning that it is easy to control. There are three probes that look like spark plugs that sense water level and that operate sensor lights in the dash and automatically turn on the water pumps when the water level gets low.

Turning the fire on and off controls the steam pressure, and there is a pressure transducer that is hooked up to the fuel solenoids to turn the burner on and off as needed.

TOM KIMMEL

Vehicle: ’08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 6x6 Engine: 100ci V-4 single-acting,

a higher MEP (mean effective pressure) than is found in a naturally aspirated four-cycle engine. So, theoretically a steam engine can make more than twice the horsepower for its displacement than a regular engine.

The camshaft is three-dimensional, meaning that there are four grinds for each cam follower/push rod/poppet valve. There is an inclined step between these grinds so the camshaft can be slid with a long lever. There is a subtle and very clever aspect to Keen’s design as the valves are slightly offset, about the width of the big end of the connecting rod, so that any one cam grind will actuate the two opposing cylinders. Therefore, only two sets of cams are needed for the four cylinders. The camshaft is conventionally located in the valley of the V. The cam grinds are long cut-off reverse, long cut-off forward, medium cut-off forward and very short cut-off forwards. Cut-off is the standard steam terminology for the dwell time of how long the intake valve is

jpmagazine.com

open. For good fuel economy the intake valve is kept open for about 15 percent of the stroke so that the steam gets to expand and give up most of its power on the down stroke. On the other hand, if the valve is kept open most of the time, say 80 percent, then there is full pressure on the piston for almost all of the down stroke and more torque is made. This is what happens when starting from a dead stop. Once moving, and when the engine is turning more rapidly, less torque is needed so the cam is shifted. There are detents on the shifting rod to indicate each of the cam positions.

The reason for the poppet-valve intake and two-cycle type of exhaust (known as a unaflow or uniflow engine in steamspeak) is for both simplicity in making the valve train and for some very subtle thermodynamic efficiencies having to do with conserving heat because the steam cools down rapidly as it expands, thus cooling off the surrounding cast iron.

—Tom Kimmel

MARCH 2018

The interior has that vintage steam train feel with some modern comforts and necessities.

Kenny used old water well pump handles for the steam control and shifters. The main focal point in the dash is the 1800s locomotive steam gauge. There is a water level sight gauge to monitor boiler levels on the passenger side of the dash. Handmade Hauk valve-style steering wheel and window cranks round out the old iron horse theme. Modern conveniences include Auto Meter instrumentation, Kicker stereo, and Star Fabrication diamond stitch leather seats for those long days riding the rails.

Although the weight of the engine is minimal, the pipes and fittings are built to handle pressures up to 3,000 psi, and this added considerable pounds to the build. The need for a beefy TeraFlex D60 front axle was paramount. The 3.73 gears, an Auburn Gear Max Lock locker, and stock Wrangler disc brakes complete the forward drivetrain. Front suspension components include 4-inch BDS coils paired with Fox shocks. The team modified a Toyota steering box, and added the Redneck Ram hydraulic assist to improve the handling capabilities.

Continuing the old locomotive theme Hauk Designs converted the Jeep to the 6x6 configuration. Hauk used a Ford 9-inch with 3.70 gears as the mid- or pass-through axle, while the rear axle is another hefty TeraFlex D60. Internals include 3.73 gears, an Auburn Gear Max Lock locker, BDS 4-link suspension, 4-inch BDS coil springs, and Fox shocks.

Getting the power to these big axles called for 1350-series J.E. Reel driveshafts, and “whoa” mode is provided by stock Jeep disc brakes.

Six XS Power A3400-series batteries and six constant duty solenoids supply power to the electric oil pump, electric power steering unit, and three water pumps that feed water to the boiler at up to 1,000 psi. The boiler and burner unit are housed behind the battery bank and 55-gallon water tank.

Why This Jeep?

Fascinated by the odd and unique, we knew this Wrangler would deliver that and more. Not only is it impressive to look at, but its creativity, science, and design caught our attention. While it may not handle the hard-core trails with ease, it has opened doors for learning more than we ever dreamed about the world of steam power that had its place in the Old West and conquered wild country and blazed new trails. We look at this Jeep as a bit of modern rolling history.

One of the fun aspects of this build, and according to the Hauk Design team one of the easiest, was the integration of two antique steam whistles. A few things we can tell you from personal experience: first, stand clear when they clear the lines of water or you will take a shower; and second, cover your ears because these babies can wake the dead!

psi when a drier type of steam is created.

In the steam-powered world, more boiler pressure equals more horsepower.

The standard 16-gallon fuel cell has been converted to run on kerosene, as that is burned to heat the boiler. There is a 55-gallon water tank mounted in the area behind where the rear seat was originally located, and the boiler holds an additional 20 gallons of water. Fuel economy, or shall we say water economy, isn’t its finest attribute; while at 500 psi and speeds of 30 to 35 mph, 55 gallons of water will only transport you 1 to 1.5 miles. We could fill an entire issue with all the cool features and tech on Loco Hauk, but unfortunately, we don’t have the room within these pages. We suggest you do a web search for and check out Kenny’s new TV show Road Hauks. New episodes began in August, and the Loco Hauk build aired in fall of 2017. We did ask Kenny the question on everyone’s mind: Why? He replied with a smile, “It’s the most insane thing we could come up with.”

MARCH 2018

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If you’ve been following the restoration of our CJ-2A, you know we finally have our L134 Willys flathead back from the machine shop. After spending some idle time sitting in the garage on an engine stand wrapped in an oily bag, we are finally getting around to the rewarding and much cleaner part of the job—assembling the “Go-Devil” engine. Once you start this process it is best to finish it in a timely manner, especially if the climate is less than ideal, as the polished surfaces are now more prone to flash rust. Not to mention that having a lot of important and costly parts lying around can become hard to keep track of in most people’s garages, and we’re no different.

Rebuilding with the right parts can make all the difference in the performance, reliability, and longevity of any engine, so once again we looked to Kaiser Willys Auto Supply (KWAS) in Aiken, South Carolina, for the rebuild kit. Using quality pistons, rings, oil pump, valves, and bearings can also save you serious time and money down the road—not to mention the frustration of pulling apart something you recently assembled! The KWAS rebuild kit came with top-of-the-line parts such as Sealed Power pistons, Hastings rings, a made-inUSA oil pump, stainless exhaust valves, and many other quality parts. You could also spend a tad more and purchase Clevite rod and main bearings, and a copper head gasket, which we opted for. If you don’t already have a service manual for your Willys, now would be a good time to get

Part 2: Rebuilding an L134 engine for a 1946 Willys CJ-2A

By Chris Fox jpeditor@jpmagazine.com Photography: Chris Fox

Go-Devil Rebuild Kaiser Willys Auto Supply has been our go-to for this CJ-2A restoration, and we tapped them again for an L134 rebuild kit (L134-HEAD-GEA) for the Go-Devil engine using timing gears.

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one from KWAS, as you will likely need to reference it many times during assembly.

When ordering the rebuild kit you will need to specify the piston size, main bearing size, and rod-end bearing size information you get from the machine shop. Our L134 needed 0.040 oversize pistons, 0.040 undersize bearings for the mains on the crank, and 0.030 undersize for the rod-end bearings. Before we started any of the assembly, we prepped the block by carefully cleaning the oil galleys and blowing out any metal debris left behind by the machine shop. And trust us when we tell you that even though it had been “washed,” it still had metal shavings hiding in many of its cavities. We also used a quality thread sealant specifically resistant to oil, coolant, and fuel on all necessary NPT block plugs when installing them. Follow along as we install the rotating assembly and complete the rest of the L134 engine with timing gears.

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We were able to use the same cam that came out of this block, as it cleaned up well at the machine shop. Here we installed the cam into the block using liberal amounts of assembly lube.

Before you install the crank, make sure to spec the main bearing clearance with a preferred method (we used Plastigauge), and install the bolts and tapered pins on the flywheel flange as shown. We also used the rubber seals provided in our gasket kit and Permatex #2 on the rubber dowel seals (not rope) as we aligned and installed our rear block cap per the markings.

Once the front retaining plate, cam key, and bolts were in, we then installed the main bearings for the crank.

We then torqued all the main caps to spec, and installed the front engine plate with the provided gasket. Then we proceeded to install the thrust washer, keys, and finally, the timing gears on the front of the engine.

At TDC (top dead center) the gears should be installed with markings aligned, and then the oiling jet installed between the gears to spray them during operation. Note: The assembly had been rotated after install, so this photo does not actually show the markings meshed together.

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It is recommended that the oil pump be primed prior to installation to get oil into all the cavities and bearing surfaces for lubrication. We filled a clean drain pan with oil and then rotated the gear to suck in the oil.

With the oil pump ready to install, we inserted it in the block, but not all the way. Then using a long flathead screwdriver, we rotated the pump gear to mesh with the cam gear according to the manual for proper timing, before installing the oil pump bolts using thread sealant. We then installed the distributor as shown to make sure that at TDC compression stroke the rotor tip points at cylinder #1 on the cap.

Using Permatex #2 sealant we liberally coated both sides of the timing cover gasket, the block plate, and the cover. They were installed using a new hardware kit we got from KWAS.

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GO-DEVIL REBUILD While assembling the four new pistons onto the rods using the supplied pins, we made sure to place the small oiling hole on the lower shoulder of the rod on the opposite side of the open vertical slot area on the piston (visible on left piston).

Before the rings were installed onto the pistons, we made sure the new rings met the manual’s acceptable spec while they were sitting in the cylinder bore.

At this time we also installed the new rod bearings onto the rods and all four caps, then checked each spec on the crank using Plastigauge.

After the rod bolt nuts were torqued it was time to install the locking nuts to spec in order to prevent the rod bolt and nut from being able to loosen up.

Once the rings were placed on the piston per instructions provided in the ring kit, we used a ring compressor to clamp around all the rings as shown, then gently placed them into the cylinder. Next, we installed the rod bolts before installing the rod and piston assembly. Having someone underneath was crucial so they could carefully guide the rod with bolts over the crank and hold it still while we tapped the piston into the cylinder with a rubber mallet. We then installed the matching numbered caps and bolts to each rod.

We were able to install our stock oil pickup assembly using a new gasket with Permatex gasket sealant #2 on the base and a cotter pin for the pickup, but only after we disassembled the entire unit and thoroughly cleaned the tube and filter screen.

At this point, it was best to rotate the engine for easy access, inspect caps once again, and torque all the rod bolt nuts to the manual’s specifications.

When installing the oil pan and front engine splash guard, make sure to flatten all holes using a ball-peen hammer and reuse the six spacers as shown that drop it down far enough to make room for the front belt installation. Here we also used gasket sealant #2.

KWAS also has the spacers in case any are missing from a previous rebuild.

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Using a high-performance thread sealant, we installed the new head studs we also purchased from KWAS using the double-nut method. There are some different theories here—to torque studs or not to torque studs—but we prefer to torque on the mild side with a non-hardening thread sealant.

We now had a complete rotating assembly, valve train, and crank pulley installed. The block was ready for paint.

Install the six splashguard bolts and the rest of the oil pan bolts, and torque to spec, making sure not to over-torque.

Moving on to the valve springs, we installed one at a time by placing the spring over the valve guide, then slid the valve down into position, and then placed a lock retainer on the bottom of spring. Using a valve spring compressor, we lifted the retainer and spring to make enough room to allow both sides of the locks to be placed as shown, and then released the compressor tool.

One of the tricks we like to use before the high-temp engine enamel is applied is taping up an old or spare exhaust manifold gasket, as shown. We also marked the edges of where the valve cover gasket would lay and taped around it to keep the rust away from exposed machined surfaces later on. Using wire nuts to plug threaded holes in the block also helps to keep the paint out of unwanted areas.

Finding out that Kaiser Willys Auto Supply now sells this brand-new and “Mopar-approved” cylinder head was great news since we had a serious crack in the old head and did not want to risk a costly fix or junkyard replacement.

We simply cleaned it with paint prep, plugged the heater opening, taped off the thermostat housing area, filled the plug holes with old spark plugs, and gave it a coat of high-temp low-gloss enamel paint.

Just to make sure the small locks don’t go into the bottom of the engine if dropped, it helps to place rags in the lower holes. As you proceed with each valve spring it should start to get easier as the steps become familiar.

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GO-DEVIL REBUILD

With the new copper head gasket in place, we placed the head into position and gently worked it onto the studs. The next step was to install the air intake crossover tube and oil filter bracket. Then we torqued the head studs and bolts in the manual-specific 1-to-15 sequence in three phases working our way up to the final spec.

Moving to the transmission bellhousing, we prepped accordingly and installed the clutch cable, release fork and fulcrum, throw-out bearing, and a new return spring.

As the engine was slowly lowered on the hoist, we used the leveler to properly locate the engine onto the motor mounts, and back onto the input shaft and snout of the transmission. We had test-fit the pilot bushing in the center of the flywheel to the input shaft snout prior to installation, so we already knew it would fit properly.

Once the engine is in you can tighten all of the bellhousing bolts, and that should easily cinch up the last bit of separation you may have. You can then tighten the lower slotted motor mount bolts, and finally the main mount stud nut with a lock washer.

With the engine securely in the chassis, was time to start installing all the other parts needed, as shown, to prepare the engine to testfire and make sure it runs like it should, which for us is hopefully real soon.

In order to transition the engine from the stand to the engine hoist, we used an inexpensive engine leveler, and a simple sling method using our Mac’s tie-down straps. It worked great and did not cause any strain on the new head.

Source Kaiser Willys Auto Supply, 888/648-4923, kaiserwillys.com

Once the engine was off the stand we could access the rear of the block, and installed the rear plate first, then the resurfaced flywheel with a new KWAS 97-tooth ring gear, and finally, the new KWAS clutch and pressure plate, as shown. You can use a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc and then tighten to correct torque spec. Note: They might be hard to notice at this point, but the crank flange and flywheel have small arrows engraved to make sure they get attached correctly and not 180 degrees out of phase.

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Clint Malburg wanted a TJ pickup, so he built one

By Jake Headlee jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Jake Headlee

HARD FACTS Vehicle: ’99 Jeep Wrangler TJ Engine: 4.0L I-6 Transmission: AX-15 manual Transfer Case: Dana 300 with 4:1

low-range Suspension: 3-inch Rusty’s coils,

ACOS bumps, custom long-arms, Fox reservoir shocks (front); 3-inch Rock Krawler coils, custom long-arms, FOA shocks, Fox bumps (rear) Axles: Wagoneer Dana 44, 4.88 gears, ARB Air Locker (front); Dynatrac 60, 4.88 gears, ARB Air Locker (rear) Wheels: 17-inch Method Tires: 37x12.50x17 Goodyear MT/R Steering: Custom-built with PSC power assist

There are millions of different ways to build a Jeep. When the end of the MJ Comanche came about for the 1992 model year, a hole was left in the Jeep market. FCA has teased us with Jeep trucks for years, and we may finally have a Wrangler-based Jeep truck on the way in the next few years. What can you do if you just can’t wait and want a body-on-frame Jeep pickup truck now? You do what Clint Malburg did and build your own.

The 2017 Jp Dirt ’N Drive presented

by Jeep brought folks from all over North America, traveling long distances to experience our pre-event pilgrimage to Moab, Utah, for the Easter Jeep Safari.

Clint didn’t have to travel far, as he is a resident of Las Vegas, Nevada, the kickoff point for the year’s Jp Dirt ’N Drive.

He brought along his highly customized 1999 Jeep Wrangler TJ with a homebuilt truck bed conversion. “I saw some Jeeps like this at SEMA and thought it would be cool to build,” Clint explained. We agree completely; it is cool. Clint knew exactly what he wanted to build before he bought the Jeep.

While making his plans, he found an OE replacement quarter-panel on Craigslist that someone had purchased to repair their TJ and then realized it was over their head. The panels on a TJ Wrangler are mostly flat, and the main piece of this patch-panel Clint needed was the belt-rail of the tub for the soft top to hook into.

With the exiting corners of the donor Jeep and the new panel, he now had what he needed to cap the cab behind the front seats and build a factory-looking bed.

The frame was stretched and the final wheelbase ended up 18 inches longer than stock. With that, the emergency brake

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cables, brake and fuel lines, and rear driveshaft also had to be stretched. The main hoop of the rollbar was retained and then added on too. Clint wanted to keep the factory hardtop as an option, so he sectioned out the middle and ’glassed it back together. Because the Jeep doesn’t have air conditioning and lives in the southern Nevada desert, Clint redesigned the rear window attachment so it could be removed with two bolts for better airflow.

As if all those body modifications weren’t enough, Clint also custombuilt high-clearance front fenders after trimming the hood sides up. The custom front and rear fenders make ample clearance for the 37-inch Goodyear MT/Rs on 17-inch Method wheels. Under the hood lives a reliable stock 4.0L straight-six backed by a rebuilt AX-15 manual transmission. Splitting power to the front and rear differentials is a flipped Dana 300 transfer case with a 4:1 low-range conversion. The front and rear driveshafts were rebuilt and modified with 1350 U-joints

by Dan’s Driveline in Las Vegas.

The stock front axle was ditched in favor of a Wagoneer Dana 44 loaded with 4.88 gears and an ARB Air Locker.

Clint built the new track bar and steering linkage with PSC power assist to allow the Waggy 44 to work properly.

He also decided to use custom longarm links and 3-inch Rusty’s Off-Road Products coils up front. To fine-tune the ride height, JKS Adjustable Coil Over Spacers (ACOS) were installed, and Fox 2.0 shocks with reservoirs provide just the right amount of control. Out back, a Dynatrac 60 with 4.88 gears and an ARB Air Locker was slung under the frame using custom long-arm links, and the axle is capped with a Currie Enterprises diff cover. Rear damping duty is handled

by Rock Krawler coil springs, and the shocks and bumpstops are FOA and Fox, respectively. The rear shocks were moved outboard of the frame to provide a little more stability.

Clint started his own shop after retiring from the police force. To protect the underbelly, Clint built all the skidplates in his own shop, Rust To Dust Fabrications in Las Vegas, except for the fuel tank skidplate, which is from MetalCloak. It’s there that he built most of the Jeep you see in these photos. Like most Jeep owners, the process is never really finished. Who knows, by the 2018 Jp Dirt ’N Drive, Clint’s rig may sport a V-8, auto trans, and an Atlas T-case.

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A lightweight and compact trailer is a perfect match for the Jeep lifestyle. There are dozens

Build a Jeep Trailer We assemble the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit

By Stuart A. Bourdon jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Stuart A. Bourdon and Boyd Jaynes

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of brands, ranging from classic-style basic teardrops to multipurpose trail units loaded with features that unfold like a Swiss Army knife. Some are for the campground, while others are for the outback. One of the new off-road–ready little trailers to come onto the market, the Smittybilt SCOUT, leans far toward the off-road side, and that intrigued us. We were able to get one of the SCOUT Trailer Kits into our shop so we could take a close look at it and assemble it ourselves.

The Smittybilt SCOUT does not come assembled. It’s a kit. We did it with a complete standard and metric wrench and socket set. We did use power tools in some stages to save time, but all nuts and bolts were hand-torqued to final specifications. Feature-packed is an accurate description of the SCOUT. It provides a 1,763-pound rating and uses a heavy-duty trailing-arm suspension with coil springs, dual shock absorbers, limit straps, and alignment cams. Electric brakes

and 5x5-inch bolt pattern hubs can be tipped standard with LT265/70R17 Pro Comp A/T Sport tires on 17x9-inch Pro Comp Series 51 steel wheels.

Storage is the key word here. Two cabin drawers can be accessed through the rear door; a generator drawer and a kitchen with sink drawer are gained through opposing sides of the trailer; and a large tongue box offers generous, sealed, weatherproof space. Side compartments feature heavy-duty sliders and stainless steel locks. The large open rear compartment offers dual locking sliding drawers (one flat, one recessed), 200-pound storage capacity, and an overall dimension of 47 inches wide, 26 inches long, and 27 inches high. Also on board are an adjustable height tent/awning rack, spare tire rack, two stabilizers and a dolly jack, a 2-inch receiver on the rear for accessories, and a 2-inch ball hitch receiver up front.

There are dual rear shackle mounts and D-rings, and a 7-pin RV-style electric plug is standard and pre-wired. Optional accessory (such as a fuel can) mounting solutions and toppers such as an integrated awning and a tent designed for the 800-pound static load capacity tent/cargo rack system are available.

With a 3,000-pound GVWR the cargo capacities are not shy, despite the compact nature of the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer. With an overall size of 75 inches wide, 54 inches high, and 120 inches long, this trailer, with its 1,543-pound (dry curb weight) and 65-inch wheel track, is quite maneuverable. Its independent trailing arm suspension allowed for generous axle articulation, and when hooked up to our JK with its articulating hitch, the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer was almost forgotten as we hauled it behind us over miles and miles of southeastern Utah trails. Follow along as we give you the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit assembly highlights.

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The trailer box is heavy and caution should be used at all times during unpacking and assembly, especially until you get the dolly jack attached to the tongue and the tires and wheels bolted on to the hubs.

The Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer can open up like a Swiss Army knife, providing a tent, awning, drawers for a kitchen and generator, and dual rear sliders for massive amounts of gear storage.

Stowed inside drawers or slung underneath the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit was the trailer tongue; the storage box and spare tire rack that mount on top of the tongue; and the fenders.

When we said kit, we meant kit. Stashed for shipping in the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit drawers were all the accessory parts and hardware needed to assemble the trailer.

The only other things needed to completely assemble the SCOUT are you, a buddy to help, and a full roster of wrenches and sockets.

This is how the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit arrived. It was shipped bolted into a steel tube frame. Ours came with three Pro Comp tires and wheels attached. You can order the SCOUT Trailer Kit without tires and wheels to save money if you already have rims and rubber for it.

The hubs are a 5x5 wheel pattern to fit ’07-andup Jeep JK Wranglers, so it will be easier to get trailer wheels to match your Jeep’s wheels.

The trailer tongue was loosely attached with bolts to the front side of the trailing arm brackets, just tight enough to be secure, but still loose enough so the front of the tongue could be swung up after attaching the adjustable-height jockey wheel. Using a floor jack to help support the trailer tongue, the final tongue mounting brackets were aligned and bolted up to their matching holes in the trailer body.

With the trailer tongue installed, we moved underneath the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit. A pair of coil-spring, dual-shock trailing arms with limiting straps create the suspension system for the trailer. Once the bumpstops were bolted into the upper cups, we used a floor jack to raise the trailing arms to carefully compress and seat the coil springs into their upper and lower rubber isolators (rings) that were placed inside the upper and lower spring cups. At that point, it’s easy to use the floor jack to raise or lower the trailing arm to the right locations to install the limit straps, and then install shocks last. Be sure to lube the shock bushings and their receptacles with lithium-based grease prior to assembly.

It took a good hour to unwrap; unbolt; jack up the steel trailer box using floor jacks and 4x4 wood beams; pull the steel frame out from under from the trailer box bit by bit replacing the jacks with stands as we went; and unload all the parts stowed in drawers for shipping.

Only then could the assembly of the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit really begin.

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BUILD A JEEP TRAILER

The brake hubs come ready to bolt up to the trailing arms, but there is a left and a right hub.

The hubs should be oriented for assembly so that the brake lever pulls upward and toward the front of the trailer. Once the hubs are attached to the trailing arms, the brake wire plug was connected to the socket on the trailing arm side. A dab of dielectric grease was used on the pins before connecting pins in the socket.

It’s easier to cycle the suspension during assembly without the tires installed. We installed the tires and wheels to the brake hubs next, tightening in a star pattern. Only then did we fully torque any suspension system mounting bolts so that the full weight of the trailer could rest on the suspension.

If the shock bolts are fully torqued beforehand, the suspension can bind the bushings, causing premature wear and squeaking.

The Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer kit comes with a spare tire holder that can accommodate up to a 37x12.50 tire. The carrier was bolted to the tongue, directly in front of the trailer box. Per the kit’s instructions, the carrier was positioned with the opening to the passenger side. Two tie-downs were used to secure the spare tire in the rack; one over the top of the tire’s circumference, the other strap can run from the rack’s front tab to the rack’s rear tab or to the eyelet on top of the trailer box.

Next came the fenders. Those made for the Smittybilt SCOUT are tube-style, steel, and come with integrated taillights. Now with the tires and wheels on the suspension, we used a jack stand to fully compress each trailing arm to its full upward travel one at a time. Then we held the fenders up to their pre-drilled mounting holes on the sides of the trailer box. Since we were using the Pro Comp tires and wheels matched to the kit, we could mount the fenders in their “stock” locations. If we had brought in larger tires, we would have known just how much higher on the trailer box to drill a set of matching fender mount holes to clear the larger tires.

The last large object to be attached was the tongue storage box.

It takes two to do this job easily, as the mounting holes go through the bottom of the box and the tongue cover plate, so a nut must be held below while the bolt is tightened from deep inside the box. This is one of the many times during the SCOUT trailer kit assembly that a second set of hands came in handy.

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This was the best time to install the electric breakaway brake system. The breakaway controller and battery box was mounted to the trailer tongue using kit-supplied brackets and hardware. The pins and connectors were assembled to the unfinished ends of the wiring harnesses at this time. One side of the wiring was pre-strung from the tongue to the brakes, and the otherside is what came with the breakaway kit. The breakaway cable was strung at this time, too. When all parts of the electric breakaway brake system were assembled and mounted properly, the two completed wiring harnesses were connected.

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BUILD A JEEP TRAILER

Now was a good time to string up the parking brake system. First, we routed the parking brake cable through the brake lever pulley to the halfway mark we made on the cable.

Next, each end of the parking brake cable was strung through the guides on the side of the tongue and frame, through the brake drum actuator arms, and then looped back on itself; the loop secured using kit-supplied U-bolts.

Adjustments here are critical, and we suggest making sure the cable is strung and adjusted tightly and properly before the U-bolts are completely torqued down on the cable loops.

Two adjustable-height stabilizer jacks come in the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer Kit. The kit-supplied stabilizer-mounting brackets were attached to a rail along the rear lower edge of the SCOUT box, using cotter pins and jam bolts.

A pull pin locks and unlocks the rotating lower stabilizer bracket mount, allowing the swingup stabilizer jacks to be locked vertically for camping and storage or horizontally for travel.

The jam bolts must be fully tightened when using the jacks vertically to stabilize the trailer.

The tent mounting bars were next on the list.

Using cotter pins, the tent mounting bars are easily installed in the mount channels that run vertically on both sides of the trailer box.

Height adjustment is a simple task of removing and reinserting the cotter pins as the tent mounting bars are raised or lowered. Assessing your tent’s open and closed height, and the desired rack height, prior to installation of the tent is ideal, since rack height adjustments after tent installation can be difficult.

Two F-shaped awning mounts were the last things to be installed. Fully adjustable and secured with cotter pins, as well as threaded knobs to take up any slack, the awning mounts jut upward. The adjustable horizontal top bar can be set outward and the vertical bar adjusted upward to accommodate an open tent for camping with the awning pulled out, or the horizontal bar can be turned inward and the vertical bar adjusted downward to help secure the tent in its closed position for travel with the awning closed up.

All bolted up and torqued down, the Smittybilt SCOUT Trailer kit assembly was finished in a good day’s work. We can’t emphasize enough that without a buddy to assist in the assembly, the job is near impossible. For convenience and safety’s sake, find a friend!

You will need a full complement of standard and metric wrenches and sockets, and lunch standing by would be a good idea, too.

Source

Smittybilt, 888/717-5797, smittybilt.com

Once the trailer coupler was assembled it could be attached to the trailer tongue. We then strung the safety chain on the trailer tongue near the coupler. Adjustment of the coupler is important, and can be done through the nut at the bottom of the coupler latch. The easiest way to make this adjustment is to use a hitch ball inserted into the coupler. When the coupler’s handle is locked down on the ball, the ball should be tight enough to still pivot, but not bind in the coupler. The coupler and ball should be lightly greased. We recommend wheel-bearing grease.

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Two-Door Rock Champ Not all customized Jeep JKs began life as sedans

By Jake Headlee jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Jake Headlee

From building and tuning bikes to getting in trouble for dismantling his Dad’s remotecontrol car, Paul Peñas realized at a young age that his passion for the automobile (of any kind) wasn’t going away. His first car was a junker he could work on, but it wasn’t long before he stepped up his game and started work on a Nissan 350Z that would eventually win multiple trophies, features in magazines, a track race, and even a spot in the Continental Tires booth at the SEMA Show a few times.

As Paul got older, his love of driving translated into a career as a commercial big rig driver. He can’t leave anything alone, so his big rig has been customized and is a trophy winner as well.

Throughout all those years he developed a sense of outdoor adventure, formed by camping as a kid, that eventually led to the purchase of a Jeep.

Paul brought home a 2007 two-door JK Wrangler Rubicon. The Rubicon gave him a great base to build from. Over the course of four years, he took the slow and careful approach, eventually converting the “little” stock JK Rubicon into a coilover-sprung, armored beast that allows Paul and his wife to explore the world.

They have wheeled in Johnson Valley, Big Bear, tackled the Rubicon Trail, bounced all over Moab, and explored many trails in the western United States.

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Up front is an EVO Stubby front bumper, loaded with a Warn Powerplant winch and Rigid Dually LED lights. The factory front fenders were replaced with EVO flat fenders with matching 2-inchnarrower-than-stock flares.

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TWO-DOOR ROCK CHAMP

Under the hood lives the original 3.8L V-6, but it has been upgraded to pump more power out. An Airaid intake system lets fresh air in, a Diablo Tuner tweaked the ECU program, and an Odyssey Extreme battery keeps it juiced up.

Practically the entire Jeep is covered in armor. The rear corners are customized EVO MFG Rockskins with flat fender flares that are 2 inches narrower than stock. The tub-mounted swing-away tire carrier allowed Paul to ditch the rear bumper entirely for an optimal rear departure angle.

Under the nose is a Dynatrac ProRock 44, loaded with the OEM selectable locker and a 5.13 ring-and-pinion from Motive Gear. Added to that: Reid Racing knuckles, EVO Draglink Flip Kit, and a PSC Motorsports hydraulic steering-assist ram system.

The long-arm front suspension system is from EVO and features 14-inch King coilovers alongside King triple bypass shocks with internal bumpstops.

The OEM rear Dana 44 lives happily under the back, loaded with the OEM selectable locker and matching 5.13 Motive Gears. For the suspension, Paul chose to run the EVO Double ThrowDown EVOLever system. The King coilovers and bypass shocks allow the Jeep’s ride to be nimble, controlled, and smooth—all while not having a coilover hanging where it could get snagged by a rock. The suspension was stretched to 100 inches.

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Why This Jeep?

The off-road world is dominated by four-door JKs; so much so that a moderate but well-built two-door really stands out. Paul’s rig is extremely capable and looks great. He’s done a good job of making the best of the 3.8L V-6, and has created a build that works and looks good.

To protect the body between the wheels, a set of EVO weld-on rock rails were installed.

Even a short wheelbase can be susceptible to body damage between the tires.

A set of RIPP Performance long-tube headers were installed to get a little more power out of the early JK motor. Behind it is a high-flow catalytic converter and Flowmaster resonator.

Inside the Jeep, Paul opted for a set of MasterCraft Safety Baja R/S reclining seats. A full Rock Hard 4x4 rollcage was installed to protect occupants as well as provide mounting points for the CB radio and grab handles.

HARD FACTS Vehicle: ’07 Jeep JK Wrangler Engine: Jeep 3.8L V-6, Airaid air intake,

RIPP Performance long-tube headers, high-flow catalytic converter, Flowmaster resonator, Diablo Sport Tuner, Sprint Booster, and Odyssey Extreme battery Transmission: 42RLE automatic transmission Transfer Case: Rock-Trac 4.0:1 Axles: Dynatrac Pro Rock 44, Reid highsteer knuckles, RCV axleshafts, OEM locker, 5.13 gear set from Motive Gear, and Dynatrac diff cover (front); OEM Dana 44, RCV axleshafts, OEM Locker, 5.13 gear set from Motive Gear, and Dynatrac diff cover (rear) Wheels: 17-inch Spyderlock beadlocks Tires: 37x12.50R17 Goodyear MT/R Other: Custom-built J.E. Reel driveshafts with 1350 joints front and rear, Evap skidplates, oil pan, transmission and crossmember skidplates from EVO Mfg. and RockHard 4x4

The factory rear seat was reupholstered to better match the front MasterCraft seats.

Paul’s green beast allows him and his wife the ability to escape into the great outdoors. The uber-capable Jeep hits trails all over the western United States, and will continue to do so.

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Off-roading is a whole heap of fun, and it’s also a whole heap of extra stress and additional loading on your Jeep. The first common upgrade is to get high-traction tires, maybe even a couple sizes larger than stock. That leads to better axleshafts or beefier axle assemblies. It’s all in the name of running even larger tires and driving your Jeep over more difficult obstacles.

With all of that going on you have likely overlooked one item: the propeller shaft—and we aren’t talking about boats. It’s that steel tube with wiggly ends delivering torque to the axles.

Driveshaft upgrades are often the last thing we think to do when outfitting an older Jeep. Luckily, the driveshaft experts

Upgrading this weak link on the front driveshaft can keep early Jeeps running down the trail longer

By Brian Gabriel jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Brian Gabriel

at Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts have the knowledge and parts to help even the older and rustier side of Jeeping.

If you own a Willys or Kaiser-era Jeep, it likely has a 1310-sized universal joint on the rear driveshaft that is still common today in many 4x4s, but the front driveshafts use the smaller-yet 1210 universal joint. These 1210 U-joints are still available, but spares might be hard to find when you’re in Timbuktu, and it’s still a 1210 and not as strong as the factory rear 1310 driveshaft.

Our choice was to not go crazy on a rig that in all probability, and barring an engine swap, tops out at about 150 hp.

Upgrading to a stronger and more common 1310 U-joint front driveshaft for any Jeep equipped with a Dana 25 or Dana 27 front axle sounded like a darn good idea.

Early Jeep Driveshaft Fix Our 1967 Jeepster Commando was suffering from factory 1210 U-joint syndrome. We checked in with Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts for advice on the most logical upgrade that would get the job done well without emptying our wallet. Here’s what we came up with.

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The stock front driveshaft on this Jeepster was a two-piece design with a carrier bearing to help the driveshaft clear the exhaust. A previous owner had eliminated the awkward two-piece design, with the help of some long tube headers on the stock Buick 225 Dauntless V-6, and installed a simple one-piece driveshaft. The one-piece was too short and was fully extended at ride height leaving no room to allow for suspension movement. The slip joint could have separated on the trail.

The yoke on the front axle must be changed out to a yoke similar to a Dana 30, which Tom Wood’s provides in the package. It has the same spline count to fit the Dana 27 or Dana 25 pinion. All-new Spicer U-bolt hardware was included with the new driveshaft.

The old yoke was removed from the pinion with the help of a puller. Sometimes they get stubborn after being bolted down for 50 years.

Be prepared with an oil pan; the differential may have some oil left in it, even after draining.

The size difference is considerable between the new 1310 Gold Seal Universal joint installed

by Tom Wood’s versus the stock 1210 Spicer U-joint. Some CJ-5 and CJ-6 Jeeps are equipped with a Dana 27 front axle with the smaller 1210 joint and can benefit from upgrading to a stronger 1310 universal joint front driveshaft.

The transfer case yoke is the easy part. Our Jeepster was equipped with a Dana 20 transfer case. All that had to be done was install a Dana 20 front output yoke that was intended for a 1310 U-joint.

Easy, he said. If you are working with an older CJ-5 or Willys Jeep with a Dana 18 transfer case, then the job and the parts are the same. Since the Dana 18 and Dana 20 are so similar, a 1310 Dana 20 front yoke bolts in place. No puller was needed to remove the old yoke. You will need to drain the transfer case first to avoid a mess.

MARCH 2018

The front axle’s new yoke (right) is slightly shorter overall than the stock Dana 27 yoke (left). If this issue is not addressed, the new yoke will not properly hold the outer pinion bearing into place when the pinion nut is seated. No worries, Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts machines custom bushings to compensate so that the same pre-load force is applied to the bearings.

Comparing the faces of the stock 1210 yoke versus the new 1310 yoke makes it easy to see the difference in size. Size really does matter when it comes to the strength and reliability of your driveshaft components.

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EARLY JEEP DRIVESHAFT FIX

The new driveshaft assembly from Tom Wood’s is made from better-than-stock materials. It features all-new components coupled with a high-strength 0.180-inch wall DOM tube that will put up with some serious abuse. Our Jeepster may be relatively stock, but it sees its fair share of obstacles out on the trail.

The front yoke was installed on the Dana 27 along with a new Yukon pinion seal. The Yukon seal is a newer double-lip design that has a slightly different offset than the factory Dana 27 single-lip pinion seal. We found that the factory replacement pinion seal from the auto parts store did not properly seal around the new 1310 yoke and custom-machined spacer, and we observed a leak almost immediately.

The Yukon seal for a Dana 27 worked perfectly.

Torque the pinion nut to spec. Always consult a manual for the proper specifications. A friend with their foot on the brake and the hubs locked in is enough to keep things from turning so you can properly torque the axle pinion nut. To torque down the transfer case output yoke nut, simply put the transmission and transfer case in gear.

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The Dana 20 1310 yoke from Tom Wood’s bolted right into place without any issues.

The original seal was working perfectly and did not need to be changed. If your old seal was leaking beforehand or looks to be in bad shape, then this is a perfect time for a fresh one. Don’t forget to refill your transfer case with fresh gear oil after the new yoke is in place and torqued to spec.

Source Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts, 877/497-4238, 4xshaft.com Yukon Gear & Axle, 888/9055044, yukongear.com jpmagazine.com

Now we could bolt in the Tom Wood’s Custom Drive Shafts 1310 driveshaft. If you’ve never done this, it’s difficult to imagine the balancing act that goes on for a few minutes underneath the rig with a heavy driveshaft in one hand and a wrench and parts in the other.

Four new Spicer U-bolts were included with the new Gold Series 1310 U-joints. We made sure that the joints were properly seated in the yokes before cranking down the U-bolts.

Don’t overtighten these bolts though, as too much stress on the U-joint caps could distort them and lead to premature failure.

That’s it. Not only do we now have a much stronger and more reliable driveshaft, but we have also created common components across the Jeep. A spare 1310 U-joint in our toolbox will work on the front or rear driveshaft of the Jeep now. We will also be able to easily find U-joint parts on the shelf at any auto parts store. Time to hit the trail!

MARCH 2018

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Trail

Report

Flat Iron Mesa

South of Moab, Utah, is the Flat Iron Mesa trail. It begins right off of Highway 191 with a rock-studded hill as soon as you leave the pavement. Rated a 6 on the Red Rock 4-Wheelers’ scale of 1 to 10, the trail is made up of numerous old trails with breathtaking canyon views and some challenging four-wheeling. This rating means that much of the trail is sandy dirt two-track inlaid with bedrock, with quite a few sections of slickrock, a gravel hillclimb, loose rock, and many rocky ledges. After a rain, water in excess of 12 inches and muddy conditions can be present in some stretches. Your rig should have 4WD and 33-inch-or-larger tires; and two tractionadding devices (lockers, limited slips) are required. Lifted suspensions and good ground clearance are also a great idea.

This is not a trail for novice four-wheelers.

We ran it with the crews from Dynatrac and Falken, as well as about 30 other vehicles. Highlights of the Flat Iron Mesa trail include a 30-foot, steep, downhill slickrock section with

a sharp hook to the right called “Tilt A Whirl.” Another obstacle called “Easter Egg Rock” causes the driver to squeeze between a rock wall and an egg-shaped boulder the size of a truck while being off-camber toward the boulder and straddling a large boulder that lies underneath the vehicle. Needless to say, inattention to your spotter will likely cost you some sheetmetal damage here. The third place you might have trouble is not really difficult, but it is nonetheless scary.

Not long after Easter Egg Rock, you must carefully navigate a narrow path between a large boulder and a cliff edge that is also slightly off-camber (toward the cliff, of course). Your passenger will be able to lean out their window and look straight down the cliff. Not paying attention to your spotter here could cost you more than sheetmetal damage. There is a go-around for Easter Egg Rock and the cliff squeeze. The entire trail is about 55 miles total from town and back, 17 miles of that being off-road. We had no trouble, and the trail took about seven hours to complete. Take a look at the photos to see our awesome Flat Iron Mesa trail trip.

We tackle the Flat Iron Mesa trail at Easter Jeep Safari—here’s what you should know before you go

By Stuart A. Bourdon jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Stuart A. Bourdon 60 Jp

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Trail

Report The Steel Bender trail changes with every season and every change in the weather, as erosion alters its character and obstacles. This trail is rated a 6, which according to the Red Rock 4-Wheelers means your 4WD rig will need 33-inch-orlarger tires, a lifted suspension, and two traction-adding devices (lockers, limited slips). This is not a trail for beginners or stock 4x4s. Steel Bender crosses a creek a few times, climbs steeply into the mountains between Moab and the La Sal Mountains, and then moves on to the base of South Mesa.

Steel Bender is an easy, sandy road through creek crossings that quickly turns into a trail that climbs steeply onto a bedrock trail with many shelves ranging from 12 inches to 2 or 3 feet. The major obstacle on this trail has been nicknamed “Tail of the Dragon,” and it’s not advised for shortwheelbase vehicles.

The 8-foot (depending upon current trail condition) vertical drop does have a go-around, which is not much less intimidating, with its off-camber, rocky descent.

The Red Rock 4-Wheelers suggest “extreme caution” on this obstacle. From there, the trail returns to its general nature, with sandy sections interrupted by rock ledges and a final creek crossing before returning to gravel road.

We did the trail with the Anzo USA lighting crew, who sponsored that day’s run, and a group of about 30 rigs. The entire trip took about 7 hours, but with a smaller group that time will be shorter. Also, be a good neighbor. Don’t be “that guy” like we encountered the

day we ran Steel Bender who had BS’d the sign-up list and got on with no lockers, held up the entire group while he struggled with obstacles, and nearly busted his gear rig.

And as far as we’re concerned, on a trail such as Steel Bender, limited-slip devices are not lockers. No amount of feathering the brakes to get that LSD to bind up will make it work as well as a true locker.

Check out the photos below to see more of what you can expect when you run the Steel Bender trail in Moab, Utah.

We run the Steel Bender trail—here’s what you need to know before you do

By Stuart A. Bourdon jpeditor@jpmagazine.com Photography: Stuart A. Bourdon

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Trail

Report

Backwards Bill is named so because Bill Hughes of the Red Rock 4-Wheelers is the one who designed it. The trail is a combination of two trails (the second half of Wipe-Out Hill and the first half of Sevenmile Rim), but they are run backwards. So you get some hard-core four-wheeling in the beginning, the gorgeous red rock formations of the Merrimac Butte and the Monitor Butte (named such because they resemble the famous Civil War ironclad ships) in the middle, and then a pleasant and scenic trail leading to the cliffside switchbacks down Sevenmile Rim. The majority of the trail alternates between sandy roads and slickrock surfaces. In the early stages, the dramatic descent of Rattlesnake Hill and the extremely challenging ascent of Wipe-Out Hill got our adrenaline pumping.

Our lunch stop on a red rock slab the size of four football fields, parked in between the

Merrimac and Monitor Buttes, gave our group a scenic respite. After lunch, we wheeled through varying terrain and scenery, checked out Uranium Arch (a cave with an arch in front), and then climbed to the top of Sevenmile Rim— from which we had views of the distant snowcapped Monti La Sal mountain range—before descending the switchbacks down to the highway leading us back into Moab, Utah. We left about 8:30 a.m. and got back on the highway around 3:30 p.m., although a smaller group can easily cut that time short.

The Backwards Bill trail is rated a 5 by the Red Rock 4-Wheelers, and it suggests your 4WD vehicle have 33-inch-or-taller tires, enhanced suspension travel with good ground clearance, and traction aids such as lockers or limited-slip devices in both axles. Trail sponsor Dana/Spicer was along for the ride, and our group consisted of about 30 vehicles. We found Wipe-Out Hill to be extremely challenging, and it required us to pay close attention to the helpful spotters. Having a winch on your rig might be a good idea (just in case) on this trail. Enjoy the photos from our day on Backwards Bill below.

Everything you need to know about Moab’s Backwards Bill trail

By Stuart A. Bourdon jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Stuart A. Bourdon

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Trail

Report Our guide to Moab’s Metal Masher trail

By Rick Péwé jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Rick Péwé

The famous Metal Masher trail in Moab is aptly named; it’s not a trail for poesy pickers.

Long and arduous, it has plenty of obstacles to keep your attention—and we recommend paying close attention if you don’t want scarred sheetmetal. We took a brief jaunt with some fellow Jeepers and found that the week after Easter Jeep Safari is without a doubt far better for traffic. We only made it through half the trail before encountering L.A.-style traffic jams with no way around.

Rated a 7 by the red Rock 4 Wheelers, the trail starts out with dirt roads and a few sandstone ledges. Finally the obstacles come, which do have some bypasses. Make sure your tires are at least 35s and you run lockers front and rear, or you will be needing help and maybe a cable. Rock Chucker and Mirror Gulch are famous for carnage, and the Widow Maker is so tough that few even attempt it. The whole trail is around 45 miles, with the Arth’s Rim view about halfway in being the most spectacular view of the valley and US 191 miles below.

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Trail

Report

Strike Ravine

Area BFE is just south of Moab, and within that private enterprise is a wealth of trail systems. The Strike Ravine trail is on BLM and private land, and is one of the more challenging and fun trails you can do during the Easter Jeep Safari. We headed out on a Bestop event being held at the facility, and even ran into a BFG/Warn event, all in one place!

Strike Ravine is not exceedingly difficult. In fact, it rates between 4-7, depending on the obstacles selected. It can be a loop or a one-way trail depending on your desire, and you can easily get lost on numerous sidetracks. It also passes by the famous Helldorado and Greenday trails, so we often park and walk these trails for the awesome photos we can grab from the Kings of Carnage that bash and crash their way through. Strike Ravine, however, is tough enough to keep out bone-stock rigs, and depending on Big Ugly (a loose, tough hill climb), you may need a winch or other assistance. We also caught the Warn guys showing how to ascend ledges nearby on a cable. Anytime at Area BFE can be a good one, and Easter Jeep Safari is no exception!

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We hit Moab’s Strike Ravine trail

By Rick Péwé jpeditor@jpmagzine.com

Photography: Traci Clark and Rick Péwé MARCH 2018

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NENA KNOWS JEEPS 3

1

2

4

1. This is not recommended at home. Few places on the planet are blessed with such hightraction rock as to allow crawling up and down such steep inclines. 2. This famous obstacle on the Hell’s Revenge Trail is not called Tipover Challenge for nothing, but if you place your wheels just right, you should keep at least three of them on the ground at all times. Crawl it. Bouncing tires will demonstrate why it got its name. 3. If you don’t like the weather, just wait 30 minutes.

That’s how long I was parked waiting for this cloudburst and flash flood to pass. We waited on a rise in the terrain to not get flooded out, but not on a high point where there was risk of lightning.

Then we eased our way across the newly formed mud puddle to disturb it as little as possible.

Tread Lightly! 4. Stay on the trails. That means between the signs, trail markings, ruts in the dirt, or black tracks on the rocks. There really is no excuse to wander off of the established routes.

5. This tire track is probably 10 years old. The dark crusty top layer of dirt, called cryptogamic soil, is a living layer composed of a network of lichens, algae, fungi, and minerals that provide the life-supporting foundation for all desert plant life. It holds in moisture and nutrients for plants and trees, and prevents the wind and rain from blowing away the loose soil underneath. When we drive across this cryptogamic soil, a trench is created that will erode and undermine whole sections of land, creating dust, erosion, and eventually trail closures. Stay on the trails.

How-to: Moab for first-timers

By Nena Barlow jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Photography: Nena Barlow

Moab. You hear the name whispered in reverence throughout the Jeep world.

If you are planning a wheeling trip in Moab for the first time, there are some things you should know about visiting and driving the trails there.

First, there are some driving techniques that are specific to red rock country. The sandstone offers some amazing traction— we call it “sticky.” This exceptional traction means you will be able to climb surreal inclines and hang off of heart-pounding sidehills, but it also means that horsepowering your way up an obstacle is more likely to snap axles and grenade differentials than other terrain types that allow more wheel spin. It takes a lot more torque to break traction here, so slow and steady is usually the best first approach.

That said, the “Moab bump” is a technique with which you will want to familiarize yourself. The Moab bump is used to get up and over any number of

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Moab’s famous, short, steep obstacles, only after a slow and easy crawl has failed, and the challenge is not approach or breakover clearance. Creep your front tires up the obstacle, and then about two to three feet before your back tires get to the obstacle, apply a slight blip of the throttle to create a little momentum before your back tires get to the resistance. This is a very slight application of throttle at just the right moment. At the first couple of attempts, most people will make the mistake of waiting until the back tires touch the obstacle before they bump the throttle, and this will just cause tires to spin. The bump starts before your tires touch the obstacle. Then the momentum carries the back tires up and over it.

Remember, it is a very slight blip, not full throttle, and not all the way to the top of a long, steep climb. If you are attempting the bump, back off if you just start bouncing. Bouncing is bad. You usually get three bounces before something breaks—we call it the “snap, crackle, pop” effect.

The next thing you need to know is the desert is very delicate. Most people think of the desert as very tough and rugged.

Though you need to be to survive there, it is because everything is just barely clinging to existence. The desert doesn’t get enough regular rain to have a deep and resilient soil base, so when you drive offtrail, you leave those tracks for decades, whereas a wetter climate will just grow right back. When we do get rain, it comes

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5 in torrential downpours, which can create flash floods—a phenomenon which is not to be taken lightly. People die needlessly every year in flash floods when they should have just hunkered down on higher ground for an hour or so, rather than try to cross temporarily flooded low spots in the trail.

We don’t go “muddin’” here because as fast as it gets muddy, it will dry out again, and those deep and hard ruts you carved will stay for weeks, months, or years.

Finally, understand that Moab is a small town. With a population of only 5,000 residents, local businesses have a tough time pulling in a workforce large enough to meet the demands of a few busy weeks a year. So, if you come during April or any number of busy event weekends, expect dinner lines to be an hour or more, expect the grocery store to run out of pretzels, and expect morning coffee to be a leisurely affair, not a grab and go. Be patient and generous with the local wait staff, and remember that in small towns, unlike the anonymity of big cities, everyone knows everyone and you don’t want to be “the guy in the silver JK who was rude” because they will recognize you.

Bottom line on visiting Moab: don’t be in a hurry! Take your time dealing with obstacles, getting around each other in town or on the trail, dealing with weather or breakdowns, and even getting a bite to eat. What’s the hurry anyway? Appreciate the slow pace to give you the chance to take in all of the stunning scenery.

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JEEP SHOTS

By Ali Mansour jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

AT&TJ

Springs Over Bryce Crawford snapped this shot of his ’91 Wrangler twisting it up on the trail. The 2.5L four-cylinder engine YJ is equipped with a spring-over-axle conversion and 31-inch-tall Mickey Thompson Baja Claws.

A Bulldog front bumper is outfitted with a Badlands winch, while a Pro Comp rear bumper finishes out the back.

The AT&T branch in Dickson, Tennessee, has a crew of Jeep enthusiasts working there. This submission comes from Russ Higginbotham, an Electronic Tech for the company. He states, “The white ’15 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon belongs to Jeremy Hudspeth, a Senior-Technical Process/Quality employee. It is a work in progress. Next to it is Brian Rickard’s ’99 Wrangler 4.0L five-speed with a 2½-inch lift and a 9,500-pound Superwinch. It runs on 32-inch-tall tires. Brian is a Digital Technician. Next to that is Todd Castner’s ’98 Sahara TJ fit with a 4.0L and five-speed transmission. It has a 1-inch body lift and 31-inch-tall tires. Todd’s role is Senior-Network Support. On the other end is my ’06 65th Anniversary Wrangler. It has a 4.0L inline-six engine, six-speed transmission, and 4-inch RCD short-arm lift. Other mods include a Smittybilt 9,500-pound XRC winch, Barricade front and rear bumpers, Hi-Lift Jack, and a Midland CB.”

Solar Hunt

Thrill of the Hunt

Gregory Hunt states that he’s picked up much of his automotive knowhow from wrenching on his Solar Yellow ’02 Wrangler X and reading Jp. Purchased stock, Hunt has steadily modified the TJ over the years.

After a few years of wheeling on smaller tires, Hunt moved up to taller treads and a 4-inch suspension lift. Also adding height is a 1.25-inch body lift, which made room for the flat-belly conversion. Out back, you’ll find a Dana 44 axle plucked from under a Jeep Cherokee XJ, while the Dana 44 front was sourced from a Rubicon TJ.

Chris Dale told us that there wasn’t much left of his ’69 CJ-6 when he found the Jeep sitting on blocks. Powering the classic CJ is a Dauntless V-6, which churns a T-14 transmission. The Dana 20 transfer case splits power to the original axles.

A 4-inch suspension lift makes room for 35-inch-tall BFG M/Ts, while a new rear bumper and tire carrier help tote the spare tire and extra fuel. The interior was redone with new seats along with a coating of Rhino liner, while the outside was served a rattle-can Woodland Camo paint job.

Schooled in Jeeps With the help of his dad, Michael Nembrotti of Budd Lake, New Jersey, built this CJ-7 in high school. The Jeep now sports a Ford 302ci V-8, which is backed by an NP435 transmission. The locker-filled Dana 44 axles sourced from an International Scout spin 4.10 gears. Gone is the original tub, and in its place sits a fiberglass body.

The 4-inch suspension lift was used to help clear the 35-inch-tall tires. Here, the CJ-7 can be seen wheeling at Rausch Creek Off-Road Park in Tremont, Pennsylvania.

72 Jp

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Write Us! Want to get your Jeep into Jeep Shots?

Send some photos (each at least 1,600 by 1,200 pixels) and a description, including all mods and upgrades, to jpeditor@jpmagazine.com. Be sure to write “Jeep Shots” in the email subject line so it will get to the right department. Or, snail mail it to: Jp Magazine, Jeep Shots 831 S. Douglas St. El Segundo, CA 90245

MARCH 2018

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NEW PRODUCTS

By John Cappa jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

Tube Mounted Daystar introduces Pro Mounts with Kevlarinfused Polyurethane Spacers. They are designed to mount a variety of accessories such as fire extinguishers, flashlights, lightbars, as well as anything else to most tubular rollbars. Each kit includes two 6061 billet aluminum rollbar clamps and eight Kevlarinfused polyurethane spacers. The spacers fit 7 ⁄8 -inch, 11⁄2 -inch, 13⁄4 -inch, and 2-inch tubing.

Pro Mounts are available in anodized silver, black, blue, and red finishes. Information: Daystar, 800/595-7659, daystarweb.com

Fab Fittings Earl’s Performance Plumbing has unveiled a huge assortment of new products. The new products include LS/LT GM V-8 oil cooler and oil filter adapters, one-way check valves, LS oil pressure gauge adapters, LS oil cooler block-off plates, Swivel-Seal banjo hose ends, brake adapters, metric Uni-Flare adapters, metric brake tees, and LS dry sump adapters.

The new line of products is designed to help make Jeep engine, axle, and brake swaps go smoother and keep your plumbing leak free.

Information: Earl’s Performance Plumbing, 866/464-6553, holley.com

New Oil AmsOil has launched a new formulation of its Signature Series synthetic motor oil.

The Signature Series line is said to now offer Jeepers a new level of engine protection that exceeds new and upcoming engine oil specifications. It’s also said to provide 75 percent more engine protection against horsepower loss and wear than required by a leading industry standard, which extends the life of vital components like pistons and cams. AmsOil Signature Series synthetic motor oil is available in seven viscosities which include 0W-20, 0W-40, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, and 5W-50.

Information: AmsOil, 800/777-8491, amsoil.com

Dash Cam Want to record dash cam video of your Jeep adventures and daily commute?

Waylens might have just what you need with the Secure360 automotive security camera. The Waylens Secure360 provides a full-circle point of view in and around your Jeep. Unlike other cameras that stitch together images from various perspectives, the Waylens Secure360 has a realtime view with images that are captured and saved to the cloud. Thanks to the mobile app, you can also monitor your 4x4 and its environment in real time 24 hours a day. Information: Waylens, waylens.com

Stop Like A Pro Baer Brake Systems introduces the new Pro+ braking system for the Jeep JK Wrangler. Both the front and rear systems feature Baer 6P six-piston calipers mounted to 14-inch two-piece slotted, drilled, and zinc-plated rotors. The Baer Jeep Pro+ brakes are said to fit inside many of the popular aftermarket 18-inch wheels to provide the improved stopping power needed with bigger tires. Each kit includes Corvette C5/C6 brake pads. The Baer Pro+ Jeep Wrangler JK brake systems are said to be completely bolt-on with no modifications necessary. Information: Baer Brake Systems, 602/233-1411, baer.com

Write Us! Adventure Tent Get out of the weather with the new Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp. It features three primary pitch configurations to create a shelter that provides protection from rain and sun for hunting, camping, and overland adventures. To accommodate a variety of needs, it can be set up as a single-pole A-frame with a Jeep, as a dual-pole awning with a Jeep, or as a dual-pole A-frame without a Jeep. Each Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp includes a 168-square-foot 68D polyester tarp, two 96-inch steel poles, stakes, guylines, and a carry bag. Information: Slumberjack, 800/233-6283, slumberjack.com

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Are you building a product that the Jeep world needs to know about?Take a high resolution digital picture (at least 1,600 by 1,200 pixels) and email it along with a brief description of the product to jpeditor@ jpmagazine.com. Or, snail mail it to: Jp Magazine, New Products 831 S. Douglas St. El Segundo, CA 90245

MARCH 2018

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YOUR JEEP

By John Cappa jpeditor@jpmagazine.com Environment, although the types of gauges available are limited.

Control Arm Query What is the best method for determining aftermarket control arm length on a TJ Wrangler?

Scott Brubaker Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

All-in-One Readout I have a gauge question. I wanted to run a Racepak gauge in my ’67 Commando.

The Jeep has a 5.3L V-8, Howell wiring harness, 4L60E four-speed automatic transmission, and an Advance Adapters Atlas transfer case. I was told that the Racepak was only a little water resistant.

So I’m looking for a water-resistant gauge kit that has oil pressure, water temperature, volts, and so on. A GPS speedometer would be nice too. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Curt Starkey Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4 The all-in-one data-logger gauge clusters have been very popular in on- and off-road racing for some time. In most race applications the gauge units can be kept relatively dry. The Racepak (racepak. com) IQ3 Logger Dash and IQ3 Display Dash are recommended for off-road use.

They are designed to be water resistant but not waterproof. The company says to avoid excessive moisture. When the unit is installed in an open cockpit, the gauge is safe for use in light rain, but it’s not designed to be immersed in water. For an open-top Jeep that sees rain and mud, this may not be the best option.

Auto Meter (autometer.com) has two different gauge packs available. The MFDL display systems are said to be designed specifically for the harshest environments. The carbon composite housing of the MFDL display is IP67-rated and sealed against water and dust intrusion. It can also withstand 20 g of continuous vibration and 50 g of shock. The Competition LCD Display is a little different and is IP65-rated against water and dust intrusion.

The Auto Meter DashLink app is a great option for vehicles with an OBDII port.

It’s a plug-and-play virtual dashboard display system that turns your Apple iOS or Android device into an advanced display and monitoring system. It can even read and clear vehicle trouble codes. The DashLink gives you the ability to use a phone or tablet as your gauge cluster. You could even buy an older device, put it in a waterproof case, and stick it to the dash with Velcro, tape, or glue.

Auto Meter also offers a new line of waterproof gauges called Extreme

76 Jp

The correct control arm length to use on any Jeep is dictated by several factors.

These factors include axle location, frontend caster, and front and rear driveshaft pinion angles. Generally, you use the lower control arms to adjust the location of the axle in question. You can slightly alter the axle location from stock to make room for larger tires, but make sure the axle won’t make contact with the steering or other chassis components. With the axle location set, you can tune in the caster and pinion angles of the front axle with the upper arms. The rear axle pinion angle will need to be adjusted via the upper control arms as well. Make sure that all of the corresponding arms are equal lengths from side to side or the axle will sit in the chassis crooked.

could be damaged or worn unevenly and throw off your shim setup when the new bearings are installed. You should purchase both the new setup bearings and the clamshell puller. Removing and reinstalling new pressed-on carrier bearings multiple times with a puller to access the shims increases the chances the bearings will become damaged. The ring-and-pinion and bearings aren’t cheap.

You’re better off setting them up properly the first time. Cutting corners will likely only cause you grief.

Spider Man I’m taking the drop-in lunchbox lockers out of the Dana 30 and Dana 35 axles in my TJ Wrangler. I have the sets of differential gears and I don’t know which is which or how to identify them.

Karl Schultz Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4 The Dana 35 differential gears go with all the C-clip parts. If both gear kits are mixed up, shame on you. You’ll just have to put it together with the parts that fit properly since both axle assemblies have 27-spline axleshafts. However, the Dana 30 gears have an internal diameter of 1.16 versus 1.18 on the Dana 35. It should be fairly obvious if the parts aren’t fitting correctly.

Setup Stuff

XJ to the Rubicon

I’m regearing my ’90 XJ Dana 30 to 4.10.

Would it be better to invest in a clamshell bearing puller and make setup bearings from the old bearings or just buy new setup bearings?

Chris Davis Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

I have wanted to run the Rubicon Trail for a number of years. I have had Jeeps that I know would work, but I’m not sure about the overlander I am building right now. It is my only Jeep. I am building a ’95 four-door Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport. Will an XJ make the trip on 31-inch tires and a 3-inch lift? The Jeep has a Mercedes Benz 617 five-cylinder turbodiesel engine mated to an AX15 five-speed manual transmission. The rear axle is a Ford 8.8 with 4.10 gears, Yukon chromoly axleshafts and an Ox Locker. The Dana 30 front axle features matching 4.10 gears, another Ox Locker, Yukon chromoly axleshafts, and gussets on the end forgings. The XJ has off-road bumpers front and rear as well as a winch in front. I will be adding a steering box brace and sliders for protection. The transfer case is the stock NV231J and the exhaust is up and out of harm’s way. I also added a skidplate over the fuel tank. The XJ

Setting up ring-and-pinion axle gears requires some gear setup knowledge and a handful of specialty tools. A clamshell bearing puller is pretty handy for removing the old Dana 30 carrier bearings to get to the shims underneath. These old shims will at least give you a good shim starting point to use with the new 4.10:1 ratio ringand-pinion. Your plan to save money by not purchasing the clamshell puller isn’t a great idea. The tool will save you a lot of frustration. I also recommend purchasing new setup bearings rather than boring out your old used bearings. Used bearings

jpmagazine.com

MARCH 2018

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YOUR JEEP has good approach and departure angles.

My thinking is that a stock TJ Rubicon has about the same stats with lower transfer case gearing and a shorter wheelbase.

I know that a Rubicon TJ will make the trip.

Do you think my XJ will do the same? If not, would it make the trip if I did it with Jeep Jamboree or did a big group trip where there would be rock stacking for the Jeeps? I want to make the trip while you can still do it. I fear someday some political groups or politicians will close the road!

I trust your experience and enjoy reading every issue of Jp. I read it start to finish as soon as I receive it! I’m glad you and the staff do a great job keeping the magazine what it is, the best off-road magazine in print!

Vance Myers Chelan, WA Thanks for reading Jp, and thanks for the compliments!

It’s kind of interesting how the Rubicon Trail has become a sort of measuring stick for off-road capability. Many OE manufacturers, including Jeep, have been known to use the Rubicon as a testing ground for off-road–specific trim packages. The Rubicon Trail actually changes quite a bit year to year, and even seasonally. Of course in winter it’s usually impassable for most 4x4s because of deep snow. In spring, water runoff from melted snow can alter the trail and even move large boulders. There are also a few spots near Buck Island and Rubicon Springs with deep water and mud crossings. By mid-to-late summer, most of the trail is dry and dusty. At the end of summer many of the loose head-sized rocks have been pushed off to the side of the trail or stacked in various holes around the difficult obstacles. Once winter hits, the process starts all over again.

The Rubicon Trail has a few side hills and climbs on granite slabs, but there is nothing incredibly difficult or impossible for a Jeep like yours to get past. However, a good portion of the Rubicon Trail is absolutely littered with granite boulders, and as such, your biggest concern will be ground clearance. With 31-inch tires you’ll want to make sure all the vitals underneath are well protected with skidplates. You’ll also want to invest in a sturdy pair of rocker guards. They should be able to support the weight of the vehicle, because they will likely have to at some point on the trail.

Most people have a tendency to over-pack for the Rubicon. Bring what you think you’ll need, but keep in mind that the added weight will compress the suspension, decrease the body ground clearance, and make obstacles more difficult to climb.

Even if you have traversed the Rubicon Trail 100 times, it’s still a good idea to not travel alone. Multiple vehicles and winches can make recovery and broken vehicle repair and extraction much less difficult.

You can’t exactly walk off the Rubicon trail and head to the parts store for replacement components or supplies. The nearest stores are many miles away through very mountainous terrain.

78 Jp

The Jeep Jamboree (jeepjamboreeusa. com) guides do a great job of helping firsttimers as well as Rubicon veterans through the trail. The Rubicon Jeep Jamboree would be a great way for you to see and conquer the trail in your XJ as well as make new friends.

Leaky Rear I have a ’99 TJ Sport with a Dana 44 that has leaky rear wheel seals. I recently had the passenger-side rear wheel bearing go out. I replaced both sides with Omix-ADA bearings and seals. I had the bearings pressed on by a local mechanic. Once it was all back together, a leak developed on the passenger-side rear wheel seal. I had zero leakage prior to the bearing going out. I drove it like that until a strange noise developed in the rearend. My differential gears were damaged and my pinion seal was leaking so I decided to get a regear done and all the seals and bearings replaced. After the regear, both wheel seals were leaking again. I took it back and the wheel seals and bearings were replaced. After getting the Jeep back, the wheel seals started leaking yet again. I took it back and they found that my vent tube had a hole in it and it was clogged so they cleaned that out. Now, on long drives of a half an hour or more, I still get leakage out of both rear wheel seals. The mechanic said that the only thing he would know to do next is to replace both rear axleshafts.

I currently have Alloy USA axleshafts.

I have done some research online and seen where others have had to put in three or more seals before the Dana 44 seals properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Nathan Patterson Via email

jpmagazine.com

The TJ Dana 44 rear axleseals are a little bit persnickety. I have had some seal fine and others cause grief. There are several things that can cause an axleseal to leak, so it’s important to find out exactly where the oil is seeping out of the housing. To figure this out you will need to remove the wheel and brake drum. If oil is leaking out of the seal surface that makes contact with the axleshaft, you should check the axleshaft seal surface smoothness. If there is a groove worn in it you can either replace the axleshaft or try and find a press-on sleeve for it. These grooves form when contaminants such as brake dust, mud, and dirt get into the seal surface. As the wheel spins, a groove is worn in by the seal. It typically only happens on highmileage or poorly maintained applications.

The more likely source of your leak is where the outside diameter of the seal makes contact with the axlehousing. The TJ Dana 44 wheel seal is fairly narrow and sometimes does not seal as well as it should in this area. If you find that the leak is indeed coming from the outer diameter of the seal, remove the axleshafts. Thoroughly clean the outer diameters of the seals and the seal mating surfaces on the axle ends with brake parts cleaner or other solvent. Smear a small amount of high-quality silicone around the perimeter of the wheel seals and carefully reinstall the axles. It’s not an ideal solution, but it’s sometimes necessary to keep axle leaks from happening.

Write Us! Got a tech question you’re just itching to get answered? Send it on in to Jp Magazine,Your Jeep, 831 S. Douglas St., El Segundo, CA 90245, or email it to jpeditor@jpmagazine.com.

MARCH 2018

Jp Marketplace 9 98

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80 Jp

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SIDEWAYS

By Tori Tellem jpeditor@jpmagazine.com

ALERT: Send us your familyvacation-in-a-Jeep experience, especially if it’s vintage or parked in front of a monument or noteworthy thingy (world’s largest ball of string, or whatever you come across).

We also want to see the usual fare: Rather than the same built rides that we put in Readers’ Rigs, Sideways is all about your military Jeep experience, your sunk/stuck/ rolled Jeep experience, family experience with a Jeep, or other personal history in which a Jeep played a part. We want to see and hear, so send us a pic and don’t forget the most important parts of all: who is in the photo (first and last name), where it was taken, what year/type of Jeep, and the fun backstory info. And tell us who you are and where you’re from if you’re not the one in the photo. Make sure the photo is high resolution (no less than 1,600 by 2,000 pixels or around 2 megapixels) and a JPG (maximum quality), BMP, or TIFF file. No PDFs. Email the photo and story to jpeditor@jpmagazine.com with the subject line, “Sideways.”

Army Buddies “This is a picture of my mother, Mamie (Mary) E. Lombardi (maiden name), leaning on the jeep, when she was assigned as a military nurse in Azerbaijan, Iran, during the American Russian lend lease program of WWII,” explains Marcus Wiese. “This is in far northern Iran adjoining Russia. She was in what was called the ‘Persian Gulf Command.’

America supplied Russia with war supplies (airplanes, weapons, etc.) and helped take care of injured Russians. She later married a military man she met there, Walter Wiese.”

And that’s her “lifelong friend” Margaret Lanham at the wheel. “They knew/visited with each other until their deaths in New England in 2000.” He also points to “the Russian markings on the American jeeps! I have no idea what model or year this jeep was, about 1944 or so.”

Totality Eclipsin’

They Got Maui’d

Bobby Noble sent us photos from not one but two family vacations. That’s vacation as a plural. Due to space limitations, we’re only able to run this pic, which is his rental Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (the other trip was in his personal ’15 Wrangler). It’s parked 10,000 feet above the Pacific Ocean. Bobby says, “This is on top of the Haleakala Volcano on the Hawaiian island of Maui. We love Jeeping, so when on vacation 6,000 miles away, we rented a Jeep.” One day, Bobby and Jillian’s kids, Molly and Charlie, will grow up and move out. That’s when we’d like to be adopted and take their spots on a Jeep vacation—plural.

Jp Magazine (ISSN 1097-2730), March 2018, Vol. 23, No. 3. Published monthly by TEN: The Enthusiast Network, LLC, 261 Madison Avenue, 6th Floor, New York, NY 10016-2303. Copyright 2017 by TEN: The Enthusiast Network Magazines, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and additional mailing offices. Printed in the USA. Single copy price is $5.99. Subscription rates for 1 year (12 issues) U.S., APO, FPO, and U.S. Possessions $18.00. Canadian orders

82 Jp

Woot! Here’s a historic one for Sideways: August 21, 2017, or as you may recall, the date on which almost everyone looked up at the sky through special glasses, Saltines, paper plates, colanders, or other innovations. This is Kenneth Carlson’s capture. “Witnessing the total solar eclipse was truly an amazing experience that I will never forget! Driving over 1,000 miles with my wife, Mary, in my ’13 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon to Salem, Oregon, we were determined to get into the zone of totality!”

add $12.00 per year and international orders add $24.00 per year (includes surface mail postage). Payment in advance, U.S. funds only.

For subscription inquiries please write to Jp, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to Jp, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235.

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MARCH 2018

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399.99!

For ’97-’06 Wrangler: Winch Ready Bull Bars for without Fog Light Provisions #12057.0200 ...$399.99 Winch Ready Bull Bars with Fog Light Provisions #12057.0201 ...$449.99 Fog Lamp Kits with Plug-n-Play Wiring Kits for Winch Ready Bull Bar Bumper: Halogen “JK” Style Fog Lamp Kits for ’97-’06 Wrangler #97109.007X ...$69.99 pair LED “JK” Style Clear or Amber Fog Lamp Kits for ’97-’06 #97109.007X ...$159.99 pair 4” LED Round Auxiliary Light Kits (3500 Lumens) Pair 10° Spot Beam with Wiring #97109.2102* ... Only $169.99 Pair Pair 30° Flood Beam with Wiring #97109.2103* ... Only $169.99 Pair

Winch Ready Bull Bar shown without Grille Tube.

Available with or without Fog Light Provisions

Features Integrated Winch and Fairlead Mount.

NEW! Quadratec® Modular Winch Ready Bumper for ’07-’18 Wrangler JK Only > All-New multi-piece steel design with heavy duty 4mm thick plate $ > Includes removable 3” diameter grill guard hoops & detachable end caps > Direct bolt-on with no drilling & features integrated 6mm thick winch plate > E-Coated for corrosion resistance, finished in black textured powder coat > 71” overall width with factory fog light provision in the end caps > With end caps removed for tire clearance if needed 43.5” width > Complete kit includes hardware pack and detailed instructions > 3 year Limited Warranty. *Extension cords needed for factory fog lamps

499.99!

Quadratec Winch Ready Bumper with Factory Fog Light Provisions #12057.0210 …$499.99 *Extension cords 18” for ’07-’09 JK OE Fog Lamps #97109.0914 …$19.99 pair *Extension cords 18” for ’10-’18 JK OE Fog Lamps #97109.0915 …$24.99 pair LED Fog Light Kit for ’07-’18 Wrangler #97109.001X …$139.99 pair (Specify year of vehicle & choice of Clear or Amber fog lenses)

Full Bumper shown w/6” Round Quadratec LED Lights.

Visit Quadratec.com

Remove End Caps to Create an Instant Stubby Bumper!

Features Integrated Winch and Fairlead Mount.

Mon - Thurs 8AM - 12AM, Fri 8AM - 9PM & Sat 9AM - 5PM EST

800-745-5337 Code H196K *Free Shipping program details & restrictions available online.

Offers valid until 3-31-2018; Copyright 2017 Quadratec, Inc.

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The Jeep Experts ®

The terms Quadratec and Essentials are Registered Trademarks of Quadratec Incorporated, Registered at U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Quadratec, Inc., an independent supplier of accessories for sport utility vehicles, has no affiliation with Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA). Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, and the Jeep Grille Design are registered trademarks of FCA and are used for identification purposes only.