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New Classics Shaved Mushroom and Pecorino Salad, p. 80

FOOD S TREND

ESSENTIAL RECIPES YOU’LL LOVE FOREVER SHEET PAN PIZZA CHOPPED SALAD SHRIMP FRIED RICE BEEF TARTARE SWEET POTATO STICKY BUNS NEGRONI & TONICS

JANUARY 2018

12 ICONIC WINES TO STASH AWAY

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FOOD & WINE

JANUARY

40

43

52

17 64

THE NEW CLASSICS Chinatown, USA 52 Ugly Delicious 64 The Reitz Stuff 76 9 Editor’s Letter 12 F&W Taste Test Fizz Factor 14 Hungry Crowd Andy Cohen 17 Trendspotting The New Old-School Edition 24 Where to Go Next Buenos Aires 30 Classics Reborn Life of the Pâté 36 Opening Act The Great Good Place 40 Travel Journal Postcard from London 43 Handbook What to Cook Now 48 Bottle Service Cellar Classics 92 Most Wanted Handy and Hot’s Sweet Potato–Salted Pecan Sticky Buns

On the cover: Brooks Reitz’s Shaved Mushroom and Pecorino Salad (p. 80) from “The Reitz Stuff.”

Photograph by Christina Holmes; food styling by Simon Andrews; prop styling by Robyn Glaser J A N UA R Y 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photograph (top middle): peter frank edwards; food styling: vivian lui; prop styling: suzie myers

76

RECIPE INDEX

Staff-Favorite Pairings

Fish & Shellfish

RECIPE KEY ● FAST Can be prepared

● Halibut with Smoked

Oyster Sauce p. 86

in 45 minutes or less. ● VEGETARIAN Contains no

● Skate with Capers and

Bread p. 41

meat, poultry, or seafood. ● STAFF FAVORITE

Noodles & Grains

Recipe we especially love.

● Egg Fried Rice p. 60

Starters ● Beef Tartare with Celery

and Parmigiano-Reggiano p. 89 ● Hot-and-Sour Soup p. 86 ● Original Egg Rolls p. 63

Salad & Vegetables ● ● Antipasto Chopped Salad

p. 89 ● ● Bitter Greens Salad with

Dijon Vinaigrette p. 41 ● ● ● Cauliflower Curry p. 74 ● Chinese Greens with Oyster

Sauce p. 57 ● Roasted Broccoli with Brown

Butter Fish Sauce p. 44 ● ● ● Shaved Mushroom and

Pecorino Salad p. 80

● ● ● Lemony Zucchini-Fregola

Put the egg back in the roll.

Salad p. 85 ● Pickled Pepper Macaroni

and Cheese p. 46 ● ● Roasted Mushroom and

Vermouth Risotto p. 74 ● ● Roman Pizza p. 89 ● ● Seared Gnocchi with Roasted

Arugula p. 45 ● Shortcut Baked Rigatoni with ● ● Welsh Rarebit p. 41

with

Off-dry Riesling: 2015 Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl (p. 74).

Drinks & Sweets ● ● Banana Sticky Toffee

Pudding p. 87 ● ● ● Negroni and Tonic p. 79 ● ● Sweet Potato–Salted Pecan

Sticky Buns p. 91 ● ● Yogurt Panna Cotta with

Meat & Poultry

FISH SAUCE–CARAMEL CHICKEN

Meatballs p. 47

Marmalade and Olive Oil p. 89

● ● Fish Sauce–Caramel

Chicken p. 74 ● Hungarian Goulash p. 87

There’s no better aperitivo than this bitter cocktail.

● Poblano Pimento Cheese–

Roasted Chicken p. 45 ● Pork Braised in Milk p. 73

Pork Pies with Pine Nuts and Dried Fruit p. 32

SHORTCUT BAKED RIGATONI WITH MEATBALLS

Salt-and-Pepper Pork Chops p. 87

with

● Spicy Kimchi Tofu Stew p. 73

Herb-scented Chianti Classico: 2013 Castello di Bossi (p. 47).

Warm Sausage and Lentil Salad p. 73

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662.

Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). January 2018, Vol. 41, No. 1. Published monthly by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: Subscriptions: 12 issues, $37; Canada, $49. If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send change of address to Food & Wine, P.O. Box 62665, Tampa, FL 33662-6658. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2017 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media.

J A N UA R Y 2018

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¥KA £ FUAV>M ££ 5A7U MKGb

In Florida, even winter is packed full of moments of sunshine. With 825 miles of beaches, waterfront dining and exciting night life, the Sunshine State is your perfect escape.

Find your moment of sunshine at

editor in chief Hunter Lewis digital content director, food@time inc.

Stacey C. Rivera deputy editor executive food editor executive wine editor digital director managing editor

Christine Quinlan Kate Heddings Ray Isle Danica Lo Caitlin Murphree Miller

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culinary director Justin Chapple senior food editor Mary-Frances Heck contributing test kitchen senior editor Laura Rege test kitchen manager Kelsey Youngman

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Occasionally, FOOD & WINE makes portions of our magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact Subscriber Services at 800-333-6569 or write to: TCS, P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662-2160.

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printed in the u.s.a.

Switch to GEICO and save money for the things you love.

Maybe it’s a serving of sturgeon roe. Or a few ounces of white truffle. Amazing food is what you love – and it doesn’t come cheap. So switch to GEICO, because you could save 15% or more on car insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.

Auto • Home • Rent • Cycle • Boat geico.com | 1-800-947-AUTO (2886) | local office Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Homeowners and renters coverages are written through non-affiliated insurance companies and are secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company.

GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2017 GEICO

EDITOR’S LETTER

C

LASSIC WILL ALWAYS BE COOL. Like 82-yearold Jacques Pépin cool. Or an icy platter of Island Creek oysters at Grand Central Oyster Bar cool. Or the opening guitar notes of Tom Petty’s “American Girl” cool.

American culture has always mined the past to create new things of lasting value.

And we seem to be mining the deep tracks of global classics now, especially in food and drink. Our editors, hunting for the new and the next, keep bumping into fresh versions of the past: new restaurants with brassy patinas. Perfectly seared sweetbreads luxuriating in tomato-cream sauce. Clubby steakhouse revamps. Deep, satisfying hot pots of kimchi stew.

A simple, brilliant Negroni. With tonic.

Why is classic the overarching trend of 2018? Maybe it’s because the more topsy-turvy the world becomes—and the faster it spins on the axis of technology—the more we crave the familiar, seeking shelter from the storm in spaces that offer restoration and nourishment. Places like those conjured by Brooks Reitz, the Charleston wunderkind (see “The Reitz Stuff,” p. 76) who reassembles found objects and ideas from the past into instant classics that still feel wholly original, like Little Jack’s Tavern and the forthcoming Melfi’s. And places like the ones writer Chris Ying finds in the Chinatowns of San Francisco and Manhattan (“Chinatown, USA,” p. 52), where next-generation versions of hot-and-sour soup and egg rolls bridge the neighborhoods’ pasts and presents. But most of all at home, where delicious global comfort food delivers soul—if not 300 Instagram likes. As Anthony Bourdain tells Laurie Woolever in “Ugly Delicious” (p. 64), a story inspired by David Chang’s use of #UglyDelicious, sometimes social media perfection can be the enemy of good flavor.

photography: wes frazer

Drafting off history isn’t an excuse to perpetuate bad behavior, however. We should carry forward the best elements from the past and jettison the rest. That’s one reason we recently launched Communal Table, a first-person forum on foodandwine.com created to amplify the voices of restaurant and bar employees who are part of an industry with a work culture that brings out either the worst or the best in people.

The forum is personal for me because I trained as a cook in restaurants on both coasts. I worked alongside a few bad actors, but I also benefited from the kindness of kitchen mentors. Communal Table is just one of the Food & Wine initiatives you’ll see this year championing better, more humane workplaces and leaders who uphold the classic values of hospitality. As paying customers, we have a role to play at the table, too. We should care about the people serving us as much as we do the food.

And lastly, another update to a classic: This issue marks the first produced by a new hybrid team based in both Birmingham, Alabama, and New York City. We’re honored to be stewards of this nearly 40-year-old publication, and we aim to make it even more fun and easier to use in 2018.

Cheers and happy new year, folks. Take care of one another out there. Share good food and drink, and nourish the people you love. Now that’s classic.

HUNTER LEWIS @NOTESFROMACOOK HUNTER_LEWIS@TIMEINC.COM

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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J A N UA R Y 2018

ADVERTISEMENT

CHEF’S TABLE

AN EXCLUSIVE MEAL WITH CHEF TIMOTHY HOLLINGSWORTH OF OTIUM It was an exclusive evening at the chic LA eatery Otium—offering not only inspired food, but also intimate access to chef Timothy Hollingsworth himself.

In a defining moment of this Inside Access event, United MileagePlus® Chase Cardmembers explored the gardens that the chef calls “the most special part of the restaurant.” They listened as Hollingsworth explained his vision, saying, “I wanted to help redefine the perception of what American food is.”

Later, Hollingsworth presented fall-inspired bites featuring ingredients grown in the garden. Amid the lights of downtown LA, guests savored not only their meal, but also the exclusivity of such a unique event.

From first bites to final sips, Otium’s hospitality and Hollingsworth’s creativity boosted an already dazzling evening for United MileagePlus Chase Cardmembers.

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“

I WANTED TO HELP REDEFINE THE PERCEPTION OF WHAT AMERICAN FOOD IS.” —CHEF HOLLINGSWORTH

F&W TASTE TEST

Fizz Factor JUST IN TIME FOR THOSE NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS: SIX REFRESHING, HEALTHIER WAYS TO SATISFY SODA CRAVINGS.

GOLDEN BEAR BITTERS The Spring Botanical Tonic Syrup from Golden Bear Bitters is a bright combination of bitter greens, wild sage, lemon balm, and other ingredients gathered along the California coast. Just a dash transforms plain seltzer. $11 for 8 oz.; goldenbearbitters.com

SPINDRIFT

DRAM APOTHECARY Shae Whitney adds bitters to sparkling water to get flavors like lavender (lavender flowers, lemon peel, lemongrass, gentian root) and citrus (citrus peel, orange blossom, hibiscus). Meet gin’s new best friends. $29 for 12 (12-oz.) bottles; dramapothecary.com.

TOPO CHICO The big-bubbled, cult-favorite mineral water from Mexico is now even easier to find, including the zippy lime-flavored version. From $1.50 for 12 oz.; topochicousa.net.

HINT FIZZ Hint’s cherry sparkling water is subtle and refreshing, a surprise to those used to artificial, cloyingly sweet cherry drinks. $20 for 12 (17-oz.) bottles; drinkhint.com.

photography: con poulos; food styling: simon andrews; prop styling: alistair turnbull

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TICKLE WATER Created with kids in mind, these subtly sweet sparklers were a hit with grown-up editors as well. The cute cans hold nostalgic flavors like grape and green apple. From $15 for 12 (8-oz.) cans; drinkticklewater.com.

J A N UA R Y 2018

12

california wine country needs your love more than ever.

While the majority of Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino County wineries, restaurants and resorts have been unaffected by the fires, the people who grow, pour, craft and welcome you are in need of your support.

The best way to show them your California love is to come celebrate: sip, savor, dine and unwind. Your next getaway can help us make a

comeback .

V i s i t C a l i fo r ni a .co m / S u p p o r t - W i n e - C o u n t r y

#CALove

HUNGRY CROWD

TV HOST

HOLIDAY CHEER

HOMETOWN HERO

My entertainment style is probably the antithesis of Food & Wine. My holiday party starts after 9 p.m. so I don’t have to deal with feeding everyone. I have noshy stuff around that you pick on later after you’ve had enough to drink—my parties are really about drinking.

When I’m back home in St. Louis I like going out for Italian food because they serve Provel cheese, which is considered disgusting in most other parts of the country. In St. Louis it’s fully acceptable, and I love when something that is kind of disgusting is treated as actual food.

DREAM TRIP

I love Brazil, especially the small beach town of Trancoso and the Fasano hotel in Rio. The people are beautiful and the energy is amazing.

I was there recently for John Mayer’s 40th birthday, and on the last night of the trip he performed in São Paulo. It was just incredible.

SQUAD GOALS

The last few years I’ve been going to watch the Oscars at Jimmy Fallon’s, and they always have great food. I’m lucky that a lot of my friends are really into food. My friend Liza is a great cook; so is Matthew Broderick. And John Benjamin Hickey is a really good cook.

RINGING IT IN

CANINE CRAVINGS

I’m so excited that this year I’m co-hosting New Year’s Eve with Anderson Cooper. At most parties you have at least one TV tuned to CNN so you can see what’s going on around the world and in Times Square, so I feel like I’m going to be the background scenery at a lot of them.

J A N UA R Y 2018

I don’t give my dog Wacha human food. He was with me recently when I went to meet some Chicago Cubs for drinks, so I asked the driver to watch him. After, he told me that he gave Wacha three shish kebabs. I was like, “Are you kidding me?!” INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE QUINLAN

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

(photography left to right): aleksandar todorovic/ shutterstock, contour by getty images, fcafotodigital/ getty images

Bravo star Andy Cohen dishes about his love for Christmas, cocktails, and fake cheese.

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Meet Emilio.

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WHAT’S HOT NOW

TREND SPOTTING PRODUCED BY ELYSE INAMINE

THE NEW OLDSCHOOL EDITION

photograph: beth galton

Chef Mark Ladner custom-built his own pasta cooker at Pasta Flyer.

NOODLE REVOLUTION

FINDING A GREAT BOWL OF PASTA is serious business among American gastro-

nomes. But lately, we’ve seen stateside chefs giving Italy’s iconic carb the fast-food treatment, from the Pasta Sisters takeout empire in Los Angeles to the hotly anticipated Pasta Flyer in New York City. “I always wanted to do a concept like the Italians: quality ingredients, simply prepared, very fresh and fast,” says Pasta Flyer honcho Mark Ladner.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

»

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J A N UA R Y 2018

TRENDSPOT TING

continued from p. 17

NOODLE REVOLUTION The chef is a legend among pasta-obsessives, earning serious accolades at Mario Batali’s fine-dining temple Del Posto.

Here, Ladner breaks down the nuts and bolts of his innovative enterprise. pastaflyer.com.

Ann Street Studio’s modern take on a classic art form.

PASTA FLYER, BY THE NUMBERS:

20

5,000

BOWLS OF NOODLES LADNER HAS ALREADY DISHED OUT DURING PASTA FLYER’S PREOPENING POP-UP PHASE

10

SECONDS IT TAKES TO COOK PASTA TO A PERFECT AL DENTE IN LADNER’S CUSTOMDESIGNED CONTRAPTION

5

SHAPES OF PASTA AVAILABLE AT ANY GIVEN TIME. WE LIKE THE WHOLEGRAIN RIGATONI PAIRED WITH ONE OF FOUR SAUCES

$

8

THE AVERAGE PRICE OF A RESTAURANT-LEVEL PASTA AT PASTA FLYER

Instagram Goes Vermeer

THROW SHADE.

GET HIGH. “When I’m shooting food, I like to build height so the objects aren’t sitting flat. I’ve used old matchboxes, eye cream containers, and balls of tape to lift up objects.”

“Create dynamic shadows in your photographs by holding up branches or leaves between the light and the subject.”

“I dip a paintbrush in olive oil to add highlights onto fruits, like grape skins or halved plums.”

LOOK AT STILL LIFES by Ann Street Studio

LIGHT UP. “I like to use

(annstreetstudio.com), and you’ll do a double take.

Did that fly on a pile of oranges just move? That’s the beauty of the cinemagraph, a Harry Potter–like animated image invented by artists Jamie Beck and Kevin Burg. “A still life, in fact, is not still,” says Beck. “Light, bugs, and plants move, and we wanted to bring that dimension into our work.” So the two blended together a classic aesthetic with modern technology—the drama and beauty of baroque paintings in an Instagram context—to create their arresting moving images. But for their recent residency in Provence, the two went back to basics, using ordinary objects to achieve their extraordinary look. Here, Beck shares tips on how to up your own food photos with things you’ll find around the house.

a compact makeup mirror to reflect natural light back into my still lifes. It fills the images with beautiful highlights.”

RAID THE PANTRY.

The Comeback Kid: Lambrusco It’s not just the bubbly party fuel favored by the ancient Romans—and Americans in the ’70s—anymore.

Lambrusco is made from one of Italy’s oldest grape varieties, and respected somms like Steven Dilley of Bufalina in Austin are making a case for it. Want to explore the new generation? Dilley recommends the refreshing NV Denny Bini Lambrusco dell’Emilia ($17).

J A N UA R Y 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: ann street studio. (wine) lambrusco dell’emilia/rootstock wines

YEARS LADNER HAS BEEN MAKING PASTA—HE GOT HIS START AT OLIVES IN CHARLESTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS

TRENDSPOT TING

1. Thirty-six oysters span both coasts: Rappahannock, Olde Salts and Rochambeau from the east and Olympia and Nisqually Sweets in the west.

7

6

2. Pink peppercorn– celery mignonette enhances the fruitiness and sweetness of the oysters.

3. Dungeness or king crab legs are cooked in courtbouillon and cracked.

4. Slices of lonza are rippled with fat and sourced from Spain.

6. Housemade headcheese is pressed with lemon zest and parsley.

7. Duck liver mousse, traditionally made with shallots, thyme, and butter.

8. Palo Alto Firefighters hot sauce is produced by Northern California firefighters with peppers plucked from their backyard garden.

4 3

5

5. Maine lobster; the tail meat is mixed with umamipacked yuzu kosho.

1

8

photography: (seafood tower) mark mediana. (plate) jonah freedman

2

Stacking the Deck EVERY SEASON NEEDS A FLASHY STUNNER OF A DISH —massive hams in spring, plump birds in fall. Winter’s answer: an ice-cold tower of briny oysters, meaty crab legs, and mignonettes. Chefs are taking it up another notch with over-the-top plateaus at restaurants like Whaley’s in Washington, DC, and The Darling Oyster Bar in Charleston. But at Chris Cosentino’s Jackrabbit (gojackrabbitgo.com) in Portland, Oregon, the offal-obsessed chef gives his a surf-andturf touch. “We use both bivalves and crustaceans with a rotating mix of local, imported, and housemade charcuterie,” he says. “The pairing of pork and shellfish is the backbone of many cultures’ cooking, and this is our nod to that.”

Lox and Loaded First, there was the rise of the modern delicatessen, led by pioneers like Mile End Deli in New York City.

Then came the ensuing bagel boom. (Remember those pretzel Pop Bagels from Portland?) Now we’ve entered a third wave, with chef-driven delis reinterpreting the Jewish culinary canon: Freedman’s in Los Angeles, 405 Deli in Miami, and more.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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J A N UA R Y 2018

TRENDSPOT TING

At the bar inside Compline in Napa

Sommelier Jill Roberts at her Montana shop

curated by wine director Helen Johannesen. “It’s a gem box, a showroom, a meeting place, a sanctuary,” says Johannesen, who often leads classes in the retail nook. It’s been such a hit that there’s another outpost in the works—look for the second location of Helen’s Wines in Brentwood this spring. helenswines.com.

H E L E N A , M O N TA N A

Stevie Stacionis and Josiah Baldivino at Bay Grape in Oakland

Somms Open Up Shop Everything is just one click away these days—including wine. Podcasts, blogs, and digital wine clubs are changing how we buy our bottles. In response, a handful of wine experts are taking a stand for doing things the old-fashioned way, with brick-and-mortar retail.

CHARLESTON

Monarch Wine Merchants Justin Coleman, formerly

general manager at The Ordinary, wants to be Charleston’s first caviste, the French term for someone who runs a neighborhood

wine shop: “I have a connection with each bottle and can speak to the wine with every person who walks through the door.” He stocks what he loves—mostly European selections, from Piedmont to new-wave Beaujolais. monarchwine merchants.com.

LOS ANGELES

Helen’s Wines At the back of Jon & Vinny’s, a pizza hot spot from 2009 Best New Chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, you’ll find this closet-size shop packed with 300 bottles

Jill Roberts worked at finedining gem Eleven Madison Park for four years before bringing her wine savvy back to her home state of Montana. The mission at her bar and store: Make wine accessible. “We’ll taste as many wines with a guest as it takes to find the perfect one,” says Roberts. “There are too many delicious wines for someone not to be thrilled with what they purchase.” Many of her bottles are priced at $10, and she’s starting a wine club in the future. thehawthorn wine.com.

N A PA

Compline Sommelier Matt Stamp’s wine shop occupies the entryway of his restaurant Compline. The French Laundry vet’s project may be small, but it’s mighty, with 150 wines for purchase— a different selection than what’s poured in the dining room. complinewine.com.

»

Inn Style Once just cheap lodging for cross-country motorists, motels are getting new life—and next-level food and drink. We’re ready to road-trip to these new destinations: Tourists Welcome in North Adams, Massachusetts, from Wilco bassist John Stirratt and chef Cortney Burns, and Mother Earth Motor Lodge in Kinston, North Carolina, with its own namesake craft beers available.

J A N UA R Y 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography (clockwise from top): donna kopol bonick, eliza wiley, rachel goble. (mother earth) brandon potter

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TRENDSPOT TING

continued from p. 20

SOMMS OPEN UP SHOP

Open Sesame

OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA

Bay Grape In Stevie Stacionis and Josiah Baldivino’s book, top-notch service means Dr. Dre on the speakers and their dog, Napoleon, at your feet. The couple, who spent time at Corkbuzz in New York City and Michael Mina in San Francisco, has made the wine shop into a sort of community center, with classes nearly every day, including an intro to the Loire Valley and a blind tasting primer. baygrapewine.com.

THE NEW IT INGREDIENT

ORCAS ISLAND, WA S H I N G T O N

Doe Bay Wine Company After working at restaurants in Vail and Las Vegas, sommelier Cole Sisson needed a change of pace. So he opened a 450-squarefoot wine shop where he grew up—on a small island about 100 miles north of Seattle. He wants to introduce neighbors to new things, like wines from the Canary Islands and Sardinia: “We feel a certain kinship with island wines,” he jokes. doebaywine company.com.

Western Belize | travelbelize.org

A CURIOUS PLACE

Halvah soft serve with sumac sour cherries

Chocolate and halvah puff pastry

Plum sorbet with halvah floss

THE RESTAURANT

THE BAKERY

THE RESTAURANT

V Street (Washington, DC)

Frena (San Francisco)

Bessou (New York City)

THE BRAINS

THE BRAINS

THE BRAINS

Chefs Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby

Owners Isaac Yosef and Avi Edri

Owner Maiko Kyogoku and chef Emily Yuen

THE INSPIRATION

THE INSPIRATION

THE INSPIRATION

Snacking on halvah after trips to the hardware store

Picking up chocolate croissants and fresh halvah from the local bakery as a kid

Ghaya Oliveira’s nowiconic Grapefruit Givré dessert at Boulud Sud in NYC

THEIR FAVORITE BRAND

THEIR FAVORITE BRAND

Achva halvah

Galil shredded halvah

THEIR FAVORITE BRAND

Beirut brand tahini

photograph: yoni nimrod

in the country’s hottest pastry kitchens isn’t actually new at all. Chefs are looking back thousands of years, pulling from the Middle Eastern pantry to put halvah in the spotlight. The crumbly sweet is made of crushed sesame seeds and is typically eaten on its own as a snack. But chefs are finding creative ways to work with it, from soft serve to tarts. Here, a few of our favorite new halvahpowered desserts.

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WHERE TO GO NEXT Sausages, like this wild boar chorizo, and small-batch gin are specialties at Chori, a casual spot.

Something Old, Something Nuevo AS A NEW WAVE OF AMBITIOUS CHEFS REDEFINES THE FORMERLY TRADITION-BOUND RESTAURANT SCENE IN BUENOS AIRES, LONGTIME VISITOR PETER KAMINSKY HIGHLIGHTS SEVERAL SPOTS LEADING THE WAY.

FOR MANY YEARS, my annual fishing trip to Patagonia has included a stop off in Buenos Aires, where the food never seemed to change much beyond the excellent grilled-meat restaurants and simple neighborhood joints serving breaded minute steaks and pasta in red sauce to porteños, as residents of the Argentine capital are known. More recently, however, the city has witnessed a full-blown dining renaissance. Young chefs trained in Europe and the US are breathing new life into the traditional cuisine, introducing artisanal breads and cheeses, fermented fruits and vegetables, and unexpected international flavors, notably—thanks to an influx of Colombian and Peruvian cooks—lots of spicy chiles. At these five not-to-miss spots, next-generation talents are changing up old porteño favorites and reinvigorating Buenos Aires’s food scene.

J A N UA R Y 2018

ALTHOUGH I NEVER THOUGHT of washing down a ballpark frank with a gin and tonic, that’s basically what the chefowners at La Carnicería, along with cocktail impresario Tato Giovannoni, offer at Chori. The fast-food-style restaurant’s name honors choripán, the ubiquitous sausage on a bun consumed at every soccer stadium across Argentina. But Chori’s are no garden-variety sausages. And you likely won’t come across Príncipe de los Apóstoles, a small-batch gin infused with yerba maté, at a match either. “Instantly franchise-able” is a phrase that comes to mind when you see the decor, featuring blazing yellow walls covered with cartoon sausages and condiments. I loved the classic chori, served with lettuce, tomato, and mayo, livened up with oregano and ají chile.

Lamb sausage comes with caramelized red onions, huacatay (Peruvian black mint), and crisped sweet potato threads. And—a first for me—there’s sausage made with fish, topped with rocoto chile and ají amarillo. As a side, try a small cup of grilled corn, fresh mozzarella, and tomato-onion salsa. You’ll likely have to wait in line, but Chori has a drinks trolley that cruises the picturesque side street. Go for the gin and tonic with a sprig of singed rosemary. Thames 1653, 54-11-3966-9857.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: macías crudeli

1. Chori

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WHERE TO GO NEX T

2. Los Galgos IF YOU ARE A FAN OF COCKTAILS, how could you not love a place that has negronis on tap? Opened in 1930, Los Galgos— which means “the greyhounds”—was a popular café and vermutería that served breakfast and sandwiches alongside vermouth cocktails in the heart of the city’s business district.

In 2015, Julián Díaz, who is at the forefront of the city’s new wave of mixology at his wildly popular 878, finished a restoration and culinary upgrade of Los Galgos. Díaz and his partners installed a parrilla, or grill, as well as taps for craft beer, vermouth, and those negronis. He also brought in Magalí Zanchi, a talented young chef who prepares all of the defining dishes of porteño cuisine, including puchero, the Argentine version of France’s pot-au-feu or Spain’s national dish, cocido. Per tradition, puchero is served in three courses: rich broth and noodles, followed by If you are marrow bones, and, finally, braised a fan of meats. In a creative twist, Zanchi’s cocktails, puchero comes with a dipping how could sauce of homemade mustard made you not love with Torrontés wine vinegar and a place that wasabi—which most definitely is has negronis not a traditional condiment. Ave. on tap?

Callao 501, 54-11-4371-3561.

3. La Alacena

4. La Carnicería

IT ALWAYS FEELS LIKE A BRIGHT, unhurried Sunday morning at La Alacena in Palermo, even when it’s two in the afternoon on a Wednesday. Run by chefs and close friends Mariana Bauzá and Julieta Oriolo, the women are also the bakers, greeters, and seaters at this light, airy restaurant and its adjoining bakery. La Alacena is open all day, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Long-fermented sourdough bread and flaky croissants are all made in-house. So is the tagliatelle pasta, a staple at old-time bodegones porteños (neighborhood hangouts). Here, it’s served with a bright, lemon-inflected carbonara sauce featuring guanciale cured by Pietro Sorba, the food writer and reigning authority on porteño cuisine.

Fainá (chickpea pan bread), a standby of traditional pizzerias and bodegones, is topped with a swipe of ricotta and served with a side of peperonata goosed with spicy ají chile. Chicken livers almost melt into a bed of deeply caramelized onions with crisped, creamy polenta and capers. Like many of the new Buenos Aires chefs, Bauzá and Oriolo shop in Chinatown.

It’s where they buy the fresh sardines they cure and serve with sautéed chard, chickpeas, raisins, and braised celery—or whatever combination speaks to them on any given day. Veal meatballs, stewed in tomatoes from Argentina’s Mendoza wine region and served with a dollop of fresh mozzarella, are surprisingly light, a term I’ve never before used to describe a meatball. Gascón 1401, la-alacena.format.com.

IN A CITY FAMED FOR MEAT, La Carnicería (its name means “butcher shop”) serves the oversize rib eyes and chops that you expect to find in any Buenos Aires restaurant worth its salt—and salt is abundantly showered on its crusty, charred meats served straight from the parrilla. If you’re sharing, which I recommend, one steak will do for two people… or three… maybe four. The meat, free-range and grass-fed, comes from chef-owner Germán Sitz’s family farm and is cooked over wood fire. A thick, juicy sausage, from the farm’s pigs, arrives in a cast-iron skillet with crisped small potatoes, English peas, and two fried eggs. Argentines refer to this last flourish as a caballo—“on horseback.” A family-style portion of burnt cabbage with broccoli, peas, Parmesan cheese, and garliclaced yogurt holds its own against all of La Carnicería’s meats.

You can taste the influence of Sitz’s Colombian-born partner Pedro Peña in what I think of as a gaucho ceviche: thin slices of rump steak marinated in lime and bracing tiger’s milk, tossed with pickled red onions, celery, and sweet potatoes, set in a halo of pureed ají amarillo. It’s absolutely brilliant.

Thames 2317, 54-11-2071-7199.

J A N UA R Y 2018

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photography: (la alacena) juan paronetto. (la carnicería) macías crudeli

Julieta Oriolo and Mariana Bauzá, LEFT, of La Alacena, offer housemade tagliatelle, pear crostata, and lemon curd pie.

Do More with Your Meals!

WHERE TO GO NEX T

5. Proper YOU COULD BE FORGIVEN IF, arriving at Proper, you thought your GPS was oďŹ&#x20AC;. The place looks more like an underfunded government oďŹ&#x192;ce. Or maybe a car repair shop, which it was before becoming an always-busy restaurant, recently named among Latin Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best, where a wood-burning oven, Ă la Francis Mallmann, is the centerpiece. Chef Leo Lanussol earned his culinary chops at El Celler de Can Rocaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the Spanish restaurant twice ranked No. 1 in the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Bestâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and his hipster certiďŹ cation at Frankies 457 Spuntino in Brooklyn. The menu at Proper oďŹ&#x20AC;ers large and small plates, including slices of sourdough (made from green apple sourdough starter) served with house-cured anchovies from nearby Mar del Plata and fresh-oďŹ&#x20AC;-the-churn butter.

Housemade sausages are paired with pickled fennel and caramelized cane syrup infused with guajillo and ancho chiles. Crispy kale and chunks of wood-smoked potato temper the piquancy of Patagonzola cheese, an artisanal Patagonian take on Gorgonzola. Among my chief meat memoriesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and what trip to Argentina doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a few?â&#x20AC;&#x201D;is Properâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chuleta de cerdo, a double-thick, juicy pork chop with a ďŹ nishing coat of mustard and krain, a Yiddish word for horseradish Argentines adopted in the absence of a common Spanish translation. ArĂĄoz 1676, 54-11-4831-0027.

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MISHIGUENE FAYER

photography: (portrait) santiago soto monllor

TomĂĄs Kalikaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest combines Jewish cuisine with Argentine ďŹ re.

Probably no restaurant better reďŹ&#x201A;ects the resurgent food scene in Buenos Aires than chef TomĂĄs Kalikaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mishiguene (named after the Yiddish word for crazy), recently named one of Latin Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best. His updated mix of Jewish food from Israel, Eastern Europe, and North Africa combines ďŹ&#x201A;avors used by generations of grandmothers, interpreted by a Vespa-driving, tattooed modern chef. In his latest venture, Mishiguene Fayer, he adds the Argentine way with ďŹ re to a mash-up that can best be described as Ottolenghi-meets-Mallmann.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Situated on a quiet street just behind La Rural (the BeauxArts arena thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home to a big annual cattle exhibition), the 87-seat restaurant features a kitchen where all the cooking is done at wood-ďŹ red stations, using the super-hard, longburning native timber called Quebracho Colorado. Pastramicured short ribs, perhaps his most famous dish, achieve succulent perfection inside a state-of-the-art smoker, while a new favorite, the rack of beef, is slow-cooked on a rotisserie and served familystyle. Ave. CerviĂąo 4417, fayer.com.ar.

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Life of the Pâté PARIS CHEF ARNAUD NICOLAS IS REVIVING OLD-WORLD FRENCH CHARCUTERIE FOR A NEW GENERATION. WRITER ALEXANDER LOBRANO GETS TO THE MEAT OF THE MATTER.

A

S A BASTION of the bourgeoisie, the elegant tree-lined Avenue de la Bourdonnais on Paris’s Left Bank seems an unlikely setting for a revolution. And yet here on a quiet residential block, beneath a black awning emblazoned with the name Arnaud Nicolas, a polite little revolt is brewing. Since chef Nicolas opened his restaurant and adjacent shop in May, he has been winning Parisian hearts and minds by doing something downright subversive: In a city obsessed with gastronomic novelty, he’s looking backward and embracing tradition, reviving the art of handmade charcuterie.

“Charcuterie is an ancient craft that dates back to the Middle Ages when smoking, salting, and conserving meat in fat were the only ways to preserve it,” explains Nicolas.

J A N UA R Y 2018

“Charcuterie is a profound expression of the French culinary identity, which is why I set out to save it and restore it to its proper place in our diet.” Trouble is, the pâtés, terrines, sausages, and hams that comprise classic charcuterie have been suffering from a serious image problem in France. The high cost of production has led to a decline of dedicated shops making and selling their own charcuterie, and today many young French people only know the mediocre, industrially produced stuff found in supermarkets. And they’ve stopped eating it, dismissing charcuterie as a heavy, fatty, unhealthy vestige of their grandparents’ generation.

So Nicolas has made it his mission to convince Parisians that charcuterie can not only be refined and delicious but even wholesome. He’s got his work cut out for him, to be sure, but he’s not alone in his cause. In Paris, there’s also Gilles 30

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: christopher testani; food styling: simon andrews; prop styling: kaitlyn du ross walker

A pâté flecked with pistachios and pine nuts lies beneath this flaky crust (p. 32).

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Turn out comforting slow-cooker dishes and luscious desserts with “another-piece-please” deliciousness!

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CL ASSICS REBORN

Pork Pies with Pine Nuts and Dried Fruit page 30

I want to make great modern French charcuterie available to everyone, whatever their budget or diet.” — CHEF ARNAUD NICOLAS

Active 20 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 10 1/4

cup pine nuts All-purpose flour, for dusting

12 to 16 oz. frozen all-butter puff pastry, thawed

Verot, who runs three locations of Maison Verot, first opened by his charcutier grandfather in 1930. At his eponymous shop in the Loire Valley, Sébastien Girardeau is winning awards for his boudin blanc (veal sausage) and andouillette (chitterling sausage).

And in Le Conquet there’s Fumaisons d’Iroise, where Harold Le Meur is reviving old recipes, including seasoning sausages with seaweed and smoking them over fragrant beechwood fires. Still, no one is playing a bigger or more impassioned role in French charcuterie’s comeback than Nicolas— and he’s the perfect man to do it.

After beginning his career at age 15 as an apprentice charcutier, Nicolas won an MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) award, the highest distinction the country bestows on craftspeople, when he was only 24. He also has serious culinary cred, having worked for Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco.

That classical training is evident at his Left Bank shop and restaurant, where it is balanced with a modern sensibility.

The usual old-world trappings—hams dangling from hooks overhead, cases full of sausages—are nowhere to be seen.

Instead, the shop is strikingly minimalist, with low lighting, oak parquet, gray woodwork, and exposed stone walls that make the place look more like a hip French boutique.

At the wood-framed stainless steel counter, you can order a slice of pâté de

Southeastern Belize | travelbelize.org

A CURIOUS PLACE

cochon et fruits secs, a surprisingly light pork pâté shot through with pistachios, pine nuts, dried apricots, and dried whole cranberries, wrapped in a flaky, butter-perfumed pastry. There’s also a luscious duck foie gras pâté en croûte with figs, as well as what may be the best headcheese in Paris—smooth and luscious without sacrificing that barnyard earthiness so fundamental to fromage de tête. Charcuterie has pride of place at Nicolas’s attached 80-seat restaurant, where there are usually at least 10 different pâtés on the everchanging menu, from a luscious quail and foie gras pâté en croûte to a spectacular duck terrine with prunes cooked in red wine.

Lately Nicolas has been looking for other ways to make charcuterie more accessible to more people. Breaking with convention, he’s been toying with vegetarian recipes, including an all-green terrine (with peas, string beans, zucchini, spinach, Swiss chard, artichokes, and pine nuts) and a meatless pâté en croûte. At the same time, he’s hatching plans for a walletfriendly rotisserie and charcutier where a slice of pâté and a salad can be had for less than $15. “I want to make great modern French charcuterie available to everyone, whatever their budget or diet,” says Nicolas, who believes this type of food should be a right, not a privilege, in France. After all, he adds, “Charcuterie is our heritage.”

1 lb. ground lean pork belly 1/4

cup whole milk

1/4

cup dried cranberries

8 dried Turkish apricots, chopped 3 Tbsp. unsalted roasted pistachios 1 tsp. fine sea salt 3/4

tsp. white pepper

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tsp. water

1. In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over moderate heat, shaking occasionally, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Place in a large bowl and let cool completely.

2. On a lightly floured work surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the puff pastry to 1/8-inch thickness. Stamp out ten 4-inch rounds and ten 2 1/2-inch rounds.

Transfer rounds to 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper, and refrigerate.

3. Meanwhile, add the pork, milk, cranberries, apricots, pistachios, salt, and pepper to the bowl with the pine nuts, and gently mix with fingers until just combined. Form into ten 2-inch patties. Place a 4-inch dough round in a cupped hand. Top with a pork patty and a 2 1/2-inch round. Crimp the edges to seal, and transfer to a prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and pork patties, and refrigerate pies until firm, 1 to 8 hours.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°. Brush the pies with egg wash and, using the tip of a small knife, poke 3 slits in the top of each. Bake until puffed and golden, 40 to 45 minutes.

Let cool slightly and serve warm.

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OPENING ACT

The Great Good Place

I

T’S ANOTHER NEAR-PERFECT MORNING in Los Angeles: sunny, 76 degrees, with a southerly breeze and high visibility. Wearing black shorts and a large black Bob Marley T-shirt, Ken Friedman, the New York restaurateur, stands in the courtyard of his soon-toopen restaurant on Sunset near Vine, gazing suspiciously at a pair of very large ficus trees climbing up the stucco walls to the red Spanish tile roof.

“Overgrown house plants,” he says. “Someone bought them at Safeway 30 years ago and, because this is Southern California, everything just grows and grows.” He shakes his head.

“They’re not even native.”

Built around 1927 by silent-movie cowboy Fred Thomson, who called the property Court of Olive, 6530 Sunset Boulevard has a picturesque brick patio with a fountain burbling in the

J A N UA R Y 2018

middle of it—and a history with which Friedman is reckoning.

He and his longtime collaborator, chef April Bloomfield, are weeks away from the fall opening of their first L.A. restaurant, Hearth & Hound. For an East Coast restaurateur and chef, best known for their legendary, meat-centric The Spotted Pig in New York City’s West Village, it’s a daunting task—especially so in an altogether sunnier, healthier environment like that of Los Angeles.

Like any city, L.A. has its own constellation of power players, chamber dramas, and kitchen hustles. But there’s more to it here. For the last 30 years, the old brick patio and now-gutted room had been the Cat & Fiddle, one of Hollywood’s most beloved pubs. In a studio flats town where reality struggles to find purchase, the Cat & Fiddle occupied the rare air of the unforced. It wasn’t cinéma vérité; it was the

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photography: security pacific national bank collection/los angeles public library

ON THE EVE OF A MAJOR LOS ANGELES RESTAURANT OPENING IN A HISTORIC HOLLYWOOD PUB, WRITER JOSHUA DAVID STEIN GRAPPLES WITH THE CHALLENGES OF CULTIVATING A RESTAURANT THAT MATTERS IN THIS MODERN ERA.

OPENING ACT

opening a “third place” kind of restaurant—one with an vérité. It was a pub, run by a real Englishman, a musician environment conducive to the organic accretion of meaning named Kim Gardner, whose star talent lay less in bass lines that comes from time, community, and shared experience— and more in recreating a bit of home far from his own. The has become increasingly difficult. patio of the Cat & Fiddle drew plenty of Gardner’s Yes, lots of restaurants continue to open, and the ones we countrymen, from Morrissey and Ronnie Wood to Rod rightly celebrate as the best newcomers of the year are indeed Stewart. And there were the un-English: Drew Barrymore, virtuosic. Eventually, for restaurants to really matter, the Metallica, and Quentin Tarantino, who often wrote at a table sapling of year one—design, menu, service, vibe, PR—must take there. Friedman, who managed the Smiths for a time before root and grow on its own. Organic meaning accumulates until becoming a restaurateur, remembers Morrissey and Johnny the question of how it was created in the first Marr arguing whether to reunite the band at place is moot. In a few years, for instance, no one the Cat. (They didn’t.) But it wasn’t the star will consider the highly conceived set design and power that made the place. It was that the Cat, original menus of New York City’s Le Coucou. as regulars called it, fulfilled the hallowed Instead they’ll take the cinematic glow as tradition of a social hangout that didn’t put on naturally occurring, cross-index with meals airs—what sociologist Ray Oldenburg named a Friedman and they’ve already had, and murmur over Daniel “third place” in his 1989 book The Great Good Bloomfield Rose’s sweetbreads, “They don’t make Place. “A third place,” he wrote, “is determined thrive against restaurants like they used to.” most of all by its regular clientele and is the backdrop So it makes sense why restaurateurs like marked by a playful mood... Though a radically of a crisis in Friedman want to graft onto history, but it is risky different kind of setting for a home,” it is American business either way. Resurrecting a new soul in “similar to a good home in the psychological restaurants— an old space can be a headache—just ask Tom comfort and support that it extends.” what might be Colicchio. Last year, the chef opened his splashy In other words, the Cat & Fiddle’s greatness called the restaurant Fowler & Wells in New York City’s lay not in its ambitions but in its lack of Great Beekman hotel. In August, he found out that the pretense. When you have a pub like that, you titular Orson Fowler studied phrenology, an just don’t mess with it. And for three decades, Meaning outdated scientific practice steeped in racism. To no one did. First opened in 1982, the Cat was a Slowdown.

Colicchio, Fowler had an old-timey ring to it, but family-run business: Kim and his wife, Paula, the dead speak, too. Their sins trickle through and their three kids, Ashlee, Eva, and Camille. the water table of the years. So Colicchio did what few others As Ashlee recounts, she and her sisters would head to the pub might: He changed the name to Temple Court. One can’t help after school at the nearby Blessed Sacrament to sell carnival but notice the new name is a double whammy for morality tickets to the early afternoon patrons. Darts were played. The (temple) and justice (court). But Colicchio is a woke outlier. fish and chips were passable. The draught lines were Farther uptown, The Grill, set in a shimmering modernist impeccably kempt. Protected from the changing world by the jewel box designed by Philip Johnson and originally opened in stucco walls, the patio never changed. But by 2014, property values in Hollywood had skyrocketed, and the area around the 1959, represents the triumphs and pitfalls of swallowing the past whole. After a long decline, the old Four Seasons Cat went from seedy to sparkling. After a protracted and ugly restaurant closed in 2016. Last year, restaurateurs Mario dispute, Paula and her daughters (Kim passed away in 2001) Carbone, Rich Torrisi, and Jeff Zalaznick of the Major Food picked up and moved around the corner, where, in a smaller Group reopened it as two separate restaurants—The Grill and though no less charming space, they’re still serving fish and The Pool—to epic fanfare. It’s all glitzy, grand, and tremendously chips, and loyalists still come to watch Manchester United tasty. The team described the place as a midcentury American games at ungodly morning hours. steakhouse, and here, the power brokers of the Mad Men years When the landlord came calling, Friedman and Bloomfield mingle with Instagramming tastemakers. Once again, the sensed opportunity. The duo is known for two things: making space is home to the powerful, swaggering, and hungry. It’s as the old new again, as they did at Tosca Cafe, the near-centuryif the last half-century never happened. And yet, though no old San Francisco bar they took over in 2013; and turning the gastropub into a Michelin-starred hot spot, like they did at The one wants to say it, there’s something blithe, at best, in bringing an old space soaked in the privilege of yesteryear Spotted Pig. Both made them ideal stewards of the pub space. back to life with nary a nod to patterns of exclusion that Friedman and Bloomfield thrive against the backdrop of a undergirded it. Who really wants to resurrect Mad Men– crisis in American restaurants—what might be called the Great era hierarchies? Only those few at the top.

Meaning Slowdown. Over the last decade or so, especially in cities like Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York, where BACK IN L.A., Friedman stands behind temporary fencing in the rent is a noose and, to quote the poet (and Tosca regular) courtyard of Hearth & Hound. The space is in bardo. “This is Lawrence Ferlinghetti, “money is breath,” opening a the money shot, right here,” he said, gazing at the newly laid restaurant has become increasingly difficult. More precisely,

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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J A N UA R Y 2018

OPENING ACT

bricks and the newly transplanted olive tree, an homage to the original one planted there many decades earlier. A score of wooden chairs sits in the courtyard like an empty jury box, awaiting placement inside. Roman and Williams, the firm behind Le Coucou and the Ace Hotel in New York City, designed the space. (The hotel is home to the FriedmanBloomfield collaborations The Breslin and the John Dory Oyster Bar.) Flooded with light and white marble, it now resembles an exposed beam cathedral. Moroccan tiles cover the walls, and the titular hearth, in white brick, glows brightly. Cords of oak and almond wood are stacked neatly by the grill. Gone are the Cat’s dartboard, drop ceiling, and flat-screen televisions. Even the faintest whiff of pub has been sublimated. It’s not that Roman and Williams ignores history. It just follows an earlier one, drawing from the old Hollywood glamour, pre-Cat days of Fred Thomson, the movie star, and an obsession with “L.A.’s longstanding trademark Spanish-style courtyards,” according to a statement by the firm’s founders, Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch.

Behind a wide counter, Bloomfield, assisted by chef de cuisine Chris Lim, presides over a menu she calls “very personal.” At 43, the chef known for her burger has started taking better care of her body. She’s been eating well and taking pilates. “I can finally touch my toes,” she says proudly.

Like the space and the city, Bloomfield describes the vegetable-heavy Hearth & Hound menu as “light and airy” with “some birds here and there—pigeons maybe, perhaps some aged duck.” Off the menu, too, it’ll be very La-La Land.

Mike D, of the Beastie Boys, will handle the wine list. Kanye West is designing shoes for the staff, and Rihanna is lending a hand with styling.

In short, the new Hearth & Hound will look nothing like the Cat & Fiddle. What it was is irrevocably gone. And any attempt at a eulogy rankles Friedman, a man allergic to post-mortem nostalgia. “Look,” he says, folding his large frame onto a bar stool, “the Cat was great, but it wasn’t any good. The same was true of the old Tosca. It’s better now than it ever was.”

Classics shutter for many reasons. Times, neighborhood, and rents change. Momentum slows. The kitchen goes downhill. The place gets by on nostalgia and memory alone.

Sometimes the great outstrips the good.

Being good—that is, as Friedman means it, with an exacting chef, expertly executed menu, and top-notch staff—is tremendously hard work. Hard work takes cold cash; cold cash demands fast returns. And there’s nothing fast or certain about the accumulation of meaning that yields greatness. Sometimes it takes luck. Or nine lives. Sometimes, good is the enemy of great. Like a tree, the great good place requires space and time to grow. A future classic must be watered and cared for; it must not burn too hot, nor grow too cool. The good news for Hearth & Hound is that it’s in Southern California, where, as Friedman notes, “everything just grows and grows.” Native or not.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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TRAVEL JOURNAL

Postcard from OUR PERIPATETIC CONTRIBUTOR ANDREW ZIMMERN REGALES US WITH THE MOST DELICIOUS DISCOVERIES FROM HIS TRAVELS. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

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cooking—turning offal into magical braises, or elevating the classic pies of the Anglican kitchen into small treats or huge festive centerpieces—earned Henderson a reputation as an innovator. That was, in a way, ironic, as his goal was to execute the best of rural culinary traditions with all the impactful thrift contained in the restaurant’s motto of nose-to-tail eating. But that approach was innovative. His signature dish of roasted bone marrow and parsley salad has now been copied worldwide by an entire generation of chefs—many of whom have also tattooed their bodies with pigs’ heads as the ultimate nod of respect.

Henderson has done more to promote eating every part of the animal than any other chef. To say he’s influenced my career is the understatement of the decade. Yet his approach is so sensible. Shouldn’t we always eat every part of the animal?

And the hero worship he gets still puzzles him. He told me last year, “I simply don’t see it.” But I do. And I regularly turn to a memory of a great meal at St. John and recreate something from memory, trying as best I can to channel his magic.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food styling: simon andrews; prop styling: kaitlyn du ross walker

L

ONDON has been a magical food town for a very long time. From the first time I dined on the superb Dover sole at Wheeler’s, I’ve been hooked. My first taste at Veeraswamy on Regent Street, London’s first Indian restaurant that’s now over 90 years old, had me reeling. And the oysters Bitter greens brighten at Wiltons—it’s more than 200 years the rich, butter-fried, crouton-topped fish old, though the location has (p. 41). changed since George Wilton shucked his first oyster at his Haymarket cart way back when.

There are newer classics, too, like The Ivy or The River Cafe, but for my money, I vote for St. John, which just celebrated its 24th birthday. I’m hoping my son will take his kids there, just as my father turned me on to his favorites the first time I visited this historic food city.

Anyone who follows chefs knows the high esteem in which St. John and its brilliant chef-owner, Ferguson Henderson, are universally held. From Chris Cosentino, America’s official offal oracle, to Chang, Batali, Bourdain, and everyone in between, we’ve all worshipped at this Smithfield eatery’s altar.

St. John is essentially a neighborhood restaurant. It opened in 1994 in a former smokehouse, and its humble nature is part of the magic. No marketing team could have concocted the place—it fulfilled Henderson’s personal, passionate mission to not only “eat on the wild side” but to reclaim British fare that truly mattered (crucial in light of the misconception that all British food was boiled, bland, or boring). St. John honors real food: visceral chow with intense flavors, deeply unpretentious, eminently craveable, and firmly British. This honest, traditional

TRAVEL JOURNAL

SKATE The idea for this dish comes from Fergus Henderson’s first book, The Whole Beast. The brilliant London chef builds a sauce around buttery croutons, which absorb a tangy blend of lemon juice, capers, and herbs.

Bitter Greens Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette

RAREBIT Quintessential English ingredients—aged cheddar, brown ale, and good bread—join forces in this toasty tavern staple. The sauce gets a savory boost from dry mustard and Worcestershire.

Total 10 min; Serves 4 3 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

Welsh Rarebit

2 Tbsp. hazelnut or extravirgin olive oil

Total 20 min; Serves 4

2 Tbsp. canola oil

Skate with Capers and Bread Total 20 min; Serves 4 3/4

cup unsalted butter, divided

1 tsp. olive oil 4 skinless skate wing fillets (about 2 lb. total) Kosher salt and white pepper 1/2

lb. day-old sourdough boule, crusts removed, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes (about 3 cups)

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. dry white wine 1/4

cup salt-packed capers, rinsed well and drained

1/4

cup chopped parsley

1/4

cup chopped tarragon

1/4

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

cup heavy cream

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

1 1/2 Tbsp. minced chives

1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

Kosher salt and pepper

2 tsp. dry mustard

5 oz. mixed bitter baby greens, such as frisée, watercress, and arugula (about 5 cups)

1/2

tsp. black pepper

10 oz. aged cheddar cheese, shredded (3 1/4 cups)

In a small bowl, whisk the mustard with the vinegar. In a slow, steady stream, whisk in both oils until emulsified. Whisk in the cream and chives, and season with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, toss the greens with enough dressing to coat.

Serve immediately.

1/4

cup brown ale, such as Samuel Smith’s

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce Four 1/2 -inch-thick slices of country bread, toasted 1 Tbsp. chopped chives

1. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallot and cook over moderate heat,

MAKE AHEAD The vinaigrette

can be chilled for up to 1 week.

stirring occasionally, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in the flour, dry mustard, and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute.

Add the cheese, ale, and Worcestershire sauce, and cook over moderately low heat, whisking, until the cheese melts, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Preheat the broiler and position a rack 4 inches from the heat. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, and arrange the toasts on top.

Spoon the cheddar mixture over the toasts, and broil until bubbling and browned around the edges, about 2 minutes.

Sprinkle with chives, and serve.

BEER British ale: Fuller’s ESB.

photography: (on location) courtesy of travel channel

Bitter Greens Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1. Preheat the oven to 475°. In a large ovenproof skillet, melt 1/4 cup of the butter with the oil.

Season the skate with salt and pepper, add to the skillet, and cook over moderate heat until bottom is browned, about 3 minutes. Flip the skate, transfer the skillet to the oven, and roast until the skate is just white throughout, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer to plates and loosely cover with foil to keep warm.

2. In the same skillet, melt the remaining 1/2 cup of butter. Add the bread cubes and cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and wine, and cook until reduced slightly, about 1 minute.

Stir in the capers and herbs.

Spoon the mixture over the skate, and serve with the salad.

Fergus Henderson tells me a story at Shanghai Dalston in London.

Sharp cheddar sauce drapes crusty bread for classic Welsh Rarebit.

WINE Minerally Alsace white:

2015 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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J A N UA R Y 2018

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WHAT TO COOK NOW

HANDBOOK Pimento cheese really gets under this chicken’s skin, and you’re going to love it!

This Month’s Kitchen Lineup 44 CHEF-INSPIRED

The best restaurant dishes, translated for home kitchens: Next-level flashroasted broccoli Sautéed gnocchi Pimento cheese– roasted chicken 46 MAD GENIUS TIPS

photography: con poulos; food styling: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers. skillet by lodge

No-boil baked pastas from culinary director Justin Chapple.

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Dinner Like a Pro We distill chefs’ brilliant ideas and bring them home for supper. Brighten broccoli, spice up chicken, and sear gnocchi to amp up your weeknight cooking.

RECIPES BY LAURA REGE AND JUSTIN CHAPPLE

The Inspiration FROM CHEF JOHN NGUYEN At Hanoi House in NYC, Nguyen drizzles morning glory, a.k.a. water spinach, with brown butter, fish sauce, and capers. This French-Vietnamese sauce is delicious with broccoli, too.

Roasted Broccoli with Brown Butter Fish Sauce Active 15 min; Total 35 min Serves 4 1 lb. broccoli crowns, cut into large florets 1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2 -inch wedges 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and pepper 1/4

cup unsalted butter

1 Tbsp. capers 1 tsp. fish sauce

1. Preheat the oven to 500°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the broccoli and red onion with the olive oil. Spread in an even layer, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Bake, without tossing, until the broccoli is just knife-tender and browned, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter.

2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt the butter. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter browns and smells nutty, about 6 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, and stir in the capers and fish sauce. Drizzle the brown butter sauce over the vegetables, and serve.

Flash-roasted broccoli and onion stand up to the salty one-two punch of capers and fish sauce.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

bowls by miro made this; serving spoon from cb2

CHEF-INSPIRED

HANDBOOK

HANDBOOK

The Inspiration FROM CHEF ASHLEY CHRISTENSEN At Poole’s in Raleigh, Christensen uses poblanos and green hot sauce in her pimento cheese. We spread it under chicken skin for crispy, melty, juicy results.

Poblano Pimento Cheese–Roasted Chicken page 43 Active 30 min; Total 1 hour 30 min Serves 4 1 poblano chile 1/2

cup sharp yellow cheddar cheese

2 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. minced onion 1/2

tsp. green hot sauce Kosher salt and pepper One 4-lb. chicken Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing Lime wedges, for serving

Seared gnocchi swim in cheesy, lemony sauce.

The Inspiration

plate from humble ceramics; fork from tableart

FROM CHEF MATT MCCALLISTER At Dallas’s FT33, McCallister sautés boiled gnocchi to get them crisp and brown. We love them with roasted arugula, chile, and lemon.

Seared Gnocchi with Roasted Arugula Total 30 min; Serves 4 5 oz. baby arugula 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt 1 lb. gnocchi 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 lemon, halved and very thinly sliced into half-moons 4 small garlic cloves, thinly sliced

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1/4

cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

undisturbed, until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes.

Stir in half of the lemon and half of the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi, lemon, and garlic to a plate. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi, lemon, and garlic.

1 Fresno chile, seeded and thinly sliced into half-moons

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large bowl, toss the arugula with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and season with salt. Divide the arugula between 2 baking sheets and spread it evenly.

Bake until crisp, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Add the reserved pasta water to the skillet, and bring to a boil. Cook over moderately high heat until saucy, 2 to 3 minutes. Return the gnocchi mixture to the skillet, and toss to coat. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the cheese and chile, and season with salt.

Transfer to a platter or plates, top with the roasted arugula, and serve.

2. Meanwhile, in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the gnocchi according to package directions until tender. Reserve 1/2 cup of the water, and drain.

3. In a large skillet, melt the butter in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add half of the gnocchi and cook,

WINE Floral Italian white: 2016 Piero Mancini Vermentino di Gallura.

45

1. Roast the poblano directly over a gas flame or under the broiler, turning occasionally, until charred all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let cool. Peel, stem, and seed the chile. In a mini food processor, pulse the chile until finely chopped. Add the cheese, mayonnaise, onion, and hot sauce, and pulse until blended. Scrape into a bowl; season with salt and pepper.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°.

Carefully run your fingers under the breast and thigh skin of the chicken to loosen it. Spread the cheese mixture under the skin over the breast and thighs. Rub olive oil all over the chicken skin, and season with pepper. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the inner thigh registers 160°, about 50 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a carving board; let rest for 10 minutes. Cut the chicken into 8 pieces. Serve with lime wedges.

SERVE WITH Green salad.

WINE Nutty California white: Sean Thackrey La Pleïade II.

J A N UA R Y 2018

Put Away the Pot These smart pastas are easier than boiling water. Justin Chapple shares his impressive onepan recipes for sweet and spicy mac and cheese and ultrasatisfying rigatoni with basil-studded meatballs.

Pickled Pepper Macaroni and Cheese Active 30 min; Total 1 hr Serves 8

Crispy panko breadcrumbs add crunch to this rich and cheesy pasta casserole.

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for brushing 4 cups half-and-half 2 Tbsp. all-purpose ďŹ&#x201A;our 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 lb. uncooked extra-wide egg noodles 2 cups shredded Fontina cheese 2 cups shredded sharp white cheddar cheese 1 cup chopped mixed hot and sweet pickled peppers, plus more for garnish 1 cup panko

1. Preheat the oven to 425°.

Brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with butter.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the half-and-half with the flour, salt, pepper, and 1 cup of water. Stir in the noodles, both cheeses, and the peppers. Scrape the noodle mixture into the prepared baking dish, and bake until bubbling and the noodles are tender, about 30 minutes.

3. Preheat the broiler and position a rack 8 inches from the heat. In a small bowl, toss the panko with the 3 tablespoons of melted butter until evenly moistened. Sprinkle the panko mixture over the macaroni and cheese, and broil until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Garnish with peppers and serve.

WINE Full-bodied, creamy Chardonnay: 2014 Anaba Sonoma Coast.

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

serving spoon from tableart

MAD GENIUS TIPS

HANDBOOK

HANDBOOK

Dry pasta and meatballs get baked with mozzarella and marinara in this genius shortcut recipe.

Shortcut Baked Rigatoni with Meatballs Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 45 min Serves 6 to 8 1/2

lb. ground pork

1/2

lb. ground beef

1/2

cup plain dry breadcrumbs

1/3

cup lightly packed torn basil, plus more for garnish

1/4

cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish

2 large eggs, lightly beaten Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. uncooked rigatoni 1 lb. fresh mozzarella, torn into 1-inch pieces

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

water to the dish, and cover tightly with foil.

3 cups store-bought marinara sauce

3. Bake until the pasta is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 1 hour.

Uncover and bake for 5 more minutes. Turn on the broiler, and broil 8 inches from the heat until the top is lightly browned. Let stand for 5 minutes, and then garnish the baked pasta with basil and cheese and serve.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large bowl, combine the pork, beef, breadcrumbs, basil, cheese, eggs, and 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper; mix well. Roll tablespoonfuls of the mixture between wet palms to form 30 meatballs.

2. In a 9-by-13-inch ceramic baking dish, spread half of the pasta in an even layer. Arrange half of the meatballs and mozzarella over the pasta. Spoon half of the marinara sauce on top, and season with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Repeat with the remaining pasta, meatballs, mozzarella, sauce, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Add 2 1/2 cups of

VARIATION You can use other

pasta shapes, such as longer, thinner ziti, curly rotini or fusilli, shells, or campanelle, which look like little bells.

WINE Herb-scented Chianti Classico: 2013 Castello di Bossi.

47

Get these recipes, build grocery lists, and share calendars with this free meal-planning app from Time Inc. Available on iTunes and Google Play.

J A N UA R Y 2018

BOTTLE SERVICE

Cellar Classics IF YOU PLAN TO AGE YOUR WINES OVER TIME, HISTORY IS A BETTER GUIDE THAN FLAVOR-OF-THE-MONTH TRENDS. RAY ISLE SEEKS OUT A DOZEN GREAT BOTTLES TO DRINK NOW OR STASH AWAY FOR YEARS.

M

ENTION THE WORDS “WINE CELLAR” to someone, and they’ll likely envision some sort of crepuscular stone vault, possibly under a Scottish castle, dimly lit and filled with dust-covered bottles from decades past. That’s great, if you’re a Scottish laird or whatever; strangely (and, I’ve always felt, unfairly), most of us aren’t.

The truth about cellaring wine is that you do not need a cellar. All you really need is cool, constant temperature, about 55 to 60 degrees or so. A wine fridge works great—there are innumerable models. A chilly basement, so much the better.

Most of my own wine is in a warehouse in New Jersey with a company called Nest Egg. Like many other wine-storage firms around the country, they do an excellent job of keeping the

J A N UA R Y 2018

bottles cool, cataloging them, and delivering me a case when I need it (for a fee, of course).

There are other myths about cellaring wine worth putting to rest, too. One, for instance, is that any wine you put away will need decades to reach its peak. In truth, and especially for whites, five or six years will often lead to fascinating changes.

Something else to consider is that plenty of ageworthy wines are neither spectacularly expensive Bordeaux firstgrowths nor the hard-to-find “unicorn” bottles that sommeliers lately trample each other to get. Classics are classics for a reason: a track record of quality over dozens of vintages and a proven ability to change and develop (for the better) over time in a cellar. Here are 12 to seek out—all are delicious now, but wouldn’t it be fun to see where they go over time?

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: amos chapple/getty images

Ancient stone walls look great, but you don’t need an underground cellar to age your wine.

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BOT TLE SE RVICE

2016 SPOTTSWOODE SAUVIGNON BLANC $38 People rarely think to cellar Sauvignon Blanc, but this lemon-guava scented version from one of Napa Valley’s most historic producers only becomes more compelling over time. It’s fully drinkable now, but stash it away for four or five years and then give it a try.

2016 DOMAINE HUET LE MONT SEC VOUVRAY $40 Vouvray is one of the world’s most ageworthy white wines. Dry (“sec”) versions, like this pear-inflected, floral bottling from one of the appellation’s most storied producers, take on more richness and honeyed notes as they age.

2015 RUDI PICHLER GRÜNER VELTLINER TERRASSEN SMARAGD $40 Minerally Austrian Grüner Veltliner gets even more savory as it ages, taking on toasty and creamy notes.

Pichler’s basic Terrassen bottling, floral and peppery, is at the level of many other producers’ singlevineyard wines. It should develop for a decade easily.

2015 STONY HILL NAPA VALLEY CHARDONNAY $48 Since the winery’s first vintage in 1952, Stony Hill’s nuanced Chardonnays have stood apart from other California versions— restrained and tautly focused, they improve for years. The 2015 is lovely now, with fragrant green apple notes and brilliant acidity, but will only add layers of flavor in years to come (for the impatient, the winery also currently sells the 2009 through its website).

2015 ANTINORI CERVARO DELLA SALA $55 At a recent tasting in New York, this Umbrian blend of Chardonnay and the local Grechetto grape proved that it can age effortlessly for at least 25 years: The 1988 vintage was still full of life. (And in fact the wine really comes into its own after five years or so, as its initially straightforward citrus flavors turn nutty and complex.)

Southeastern Belize | travelbelize.org

A CURIOUS PLACE

One of California’s most storied whites.

2015 SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG SILBERLACK RIESLING TROCKEN GG $75 When Schloss Johannisberg was founded, the Crusades were still going on. Nine hundred years later, the property is still growing grapes and making thrilling Rieslings like this peach-scented, stony (and entirely dry) bottling. Over time its complexity will only deepen.

Red 2013 COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL ROUGE $34 Château de Beaucastel’s benchmark Châteauneuf-du-Pape runs over $100 a bottle. Winemaker Marc Perrin sources this dark, fruity Côtes du Rhône from vineyards directly across the street from those of his flagship wine, but it costs $70 less. Buy a few bottles, drink some now, and put the rest away for five to 10 years.

2014 CHÂTEAU MEYNEY $39 I’ve been buying and aging Meyney’s tobacco-y, polished Bordeaux red for years. It’s a perennial cellar bargain, and in recent vintages—like this powerful 2014—the château is making some of its best wine ever. As for how long Meyney lasts, recently the 1989 was still tasting great.

2014 DOMAINE RASPAIL-AY GIGONDAS $39 This is a classic, old-school Gigondas from a fifth-generation family producer, full of dark cherry and white pepper notes. Lush and rich now, it will get spicier and more exotic over the next decade or even a bit longer.

2014 DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES NUITS-ST-GEORGES $66 What to do about Burgundy? The top crus cost a king’s ransom, and many basic Bourgogne rouges are uninspiring. But village bottlings from great producers like Gouges, while not cheap, can be spectacular after five to 10 years (case in point, the seductive 2005 vintage right now).

A Rhône red to drink now or cellar for a decade.

2012 TASCA D’ALMERITA ROSSO DEL CONTE $70 Created in the late 1960s by Count Giuseppe Tasca, this Nero d’Avola– based red proved that Sicily could produce world-class wines, not just simple quaffers. Robustly tannic when young, over time (up to 20 years or so) it softens and takes on luscious dried black cherry and warm spice notes.

2013 BERINGER PRIVATE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON $170 Beringer’s classic Private Reserve bottling doesn’t have the flavor-ofthe-month cachet of some cult Napa Valley brands, but it remains one of the region’s top reds. In 2013 it’s formidably intense, with layers of sweet blackberry fruit and massive tannins. (Note that vintages going back to the 1980s can often be found for a good price—but as always, make sure they were stored well.)

photography (from left): courtesy of beringer, courtesy of stony hill vineyard, courtesy of domaine raspail-ay

White

What is the sound of southeastern Belize? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the paranda, the punta, and a variety of other Afro-Caribbean rhythms brought to our shores with the arrival of the Garifuna people in 1797. Generations later, the music still wafts through the air, calling locals and travelers alike to dance.

Learn more about this curious place at travelbelize.org

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WRITER CHRIS YING EXPLORES THE HISTORY, UBIQUITY, AND ALLURE OF AMERICAN CHINATOWNSâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; FROM THEIR BEGINNINGS AS IMMIGRANT HAVENS TO THE NEW CROP OF RESTAURANTS THAT CELEBRATE THEIR LEGACIES.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAOLA + MURRAY

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N NEARLY EVERY major city in the world, you will find a Chinatown. Strictly speaking, any place with a preponderance of ethnically Chinese people could be considered a Chinatown.

It can be a street or a neighborhood or its own municipality, so long as the residents, the business owners, and the cultural touchstones—the people and things that make the place go—are Chinese. There are usually visual cues— architectural and decorative flourishes—that tell you that Chinese people live there, or used to, or once were required to by law. Shoppers know to go to Chinatown for the freshest (and cheapest) produce in town—herbaceous Asian greens, ginormous winter melons, tangy-sweet mangosteens, and electric-pink dragon fruit, as well as your workaday bananas and iceberg lettuce. Some Chinatowns are more ornamental than functional. Others draw in visitors by the millions.

In the US, the oldest and largest Chinatown is in San Francisco. Its quasi-official entrance is at the intersection of Bush Street and Grant Avenue, where a conspicuous jadegreen gate is flanked by lions and topped with serpentine dragons. Since the middle of the 19th century, San Francisco has been the port of entry for thousands of Chinese immigrants, and for many of them, their first stop was Chinatown. When my mother came to the States from Taiwan in 1965, she was surprised by many things. (Salad, for instance—she just couldn’t wrap her head around why people were happily eating bowls of uncooked leaves.) Chinatown, in particular, struck her as odd. She was startled to find the Chinese people in America congregating in cloistered parts of this inconceivably vast country. And the sloping ceramic eaves atop the buildings—modeled after pagodas from the previous millennium—looked straight out of a history book.

That Chinatowns tend to bear little resemblance to China itself won’t come as a surprise to anyone. But what’s compelling about the one in San Francisco—as well as those in New York, Toronto, London, Melbourne, and elsewhere—is the balance it strikes between tourist destination and functional cultural harbor for new immigrants. Wandering the streets of certain Chinatowns can evoke the strange sensation of being at Disneyland and coming across a working blacksmith among the faux log cabins of Frontierland. That uncanny duality is as old as Chinatowns themselves. And it’s as potent » today as it ever was, reflected in a new crop of ambitious

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Scenes from Mister Jiuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in San Francisco: (clockwise from top left) Chef Brandon Jew; ribbons of mango sorbet; guests in the airy dining room; a bowl of hot-andsour soup (recipe p. 86).

Action in the open kitchen at Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco.

restaurants operated by young Chinese- and TaiwaneseAmericans in Chinatowns across the country—places like Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco and Nom Wah Tea Parlor and Mimi Cheng’s Dumplings in New York City.

On the one hand, there’s the made-to-order narrative: entrepreneurial sons and daughters of immigrant families lifting up the old neighborhoods, bringing a new kind of relevance to urban areas that have remained relatively impervious to change. But then there’s the more functional truth: Chinatowns are where the opportunity lies. These places were stepping stones for previous generations, and they are being used by the current generation in a similar way. The restaurants they’ve built play on our collective fascination with Chinatown and funnel it into dining experiences that feel both familiar and wholly unexpected.

When you walk into the dining room of Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco, you’re confronted immediately by the history of the space. The chandeliers of the previous tenant, the storied Four Seas restaurant, still light up the room. Mister Jiu’s menu riffs on a number of Chinatown classics. The archetypal baked pork bun comes gilded with a mottled crust of sugar and rice flour, in the style of the Bay Area’s preferred sandwich roll, the Dutch Crunch. Sea urchin and Meyer lemon elevate and brighten a plate of stir-fried pea tendrils. Wontons are stained black with squid ink and

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nestled among rings of chewy squid, curls of microgreens, and slivers of green onion. There’s also egg drop soup and mapo tofu and roast duck—things you might expect from a Chinatown restaurant, yet each miles removed in terms of preparation and presentation.

The restaurant seems at first glance to be completely out of place among the no-frills dives that populate the rest of the neighborhood. But that’s not exactly true, says the restaurant’s chef and owner, Brandon Jew. “When the Four Seas opened in 1960, it was a progressive restaurant,” he says. Jew describes the Four Seas as a “showpiece” where San Franciscans—Asian and otherwise—brought guests and clients they wanted to impress. “Having that understanding of what Chinatown used to be makes it feel a little more natural to have a restaurant that’s different than what people might expect.”

Jew grew up in San Francisco. His grandfather lived in Chinatown when he first arrived in the States, but by the time Brandon was born, his family had long ago left the neighborhood behind. Jew recalls going to Chinatown only to shop for groceries and the occasional special event.

Among the few times he visited the Four Seas was when his uncle got married in the upstairs banquet hall.

Chinatowns may be gateways for Chinese immigrants, but most of those immigrants aspire to leave someday. When »

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THESE RESTAURANTS PLAY ON OUR COLLECTIVE FASCINATION WITH CHINATOWN.

Chinese Greens with Oyster Sauce page 63 Total 20 min; Serves 2 to 4

Here’s the secret to craveable Chinese vegetables: boil them in a mix of water, soy sauce, and oil, then drizzle with sauce.

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. soy sauce Kosher salt 1 lb. Chinese greens, such as baby bok choy or Chinese broccoli

(From left): Halibut with smoked oyster sauce (recipe p. 86); a sourdough scallion pancake; the dining room at Mister Jiu’s.

Oyster sauce, for serving

In a large pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add the oil, soy sauce, and a generous pinch of salt. Stir in the greens, and cook until dark green and barely crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and transfer to a platter. Drizzle with oyster sauce, and serve immediately.

—JONATHAN WU, NOM WAH

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CHINATOWNS STRIKE A BALANCE BETWEEN TOURIST DESTINATIONS AND FUNCTIONAL CULTURAL HARBORS FOR RECENT IMMIGRANTS.

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Egg Fried Rice

Mister Jiu’s first opened, Jew assumed that one of the benefits of the location would be that he would have access to enthusiastic young cooks who understood the context of his food. But once again, the reality proved different. “The parents of the kids in Chinatown are like, ‘No way you can go work for a Chinatown restaurant. You’re studying hard so you can get us out of here,’” Jew says with a laugh.

Nom Wah Tea Parlor’s Wilson Tang had that exact experience as a kid growing up in New York. When Tang was younger, his uncle owned Nom Wah, the almost century-old dim sum house on Doyers Street. “My parents really wanted to get me the hell out of the restaurant,” Tang says. “Chinatown just wasn’t a place to hang out as a kid. There was all that riffraff, the gangs, the extortion.”

After dutifully working a job in finance for a few years, Tang eventually defied his parents and took the reins of Nom Wah from his uncle. He resisted the urge to modernize the restaurant too much, choosing instead to lean into the existing aesthetic and lived-in charm that other restaurateurs might pour money into recreating. He gave the dim sum menu a subtle punch up—egg rolls enveloped in thin homemade crêpes rather than store-bought wrappers and delicate dumplings cradling sweet shrimp and bright snow pea leaves. Tang’s lightly updated Nom Wah grew into a runaway success. He went on to open three more locations that have spread as far as Philadelphia, and he eventually teamed up with Chinese-American chef Jonathan Wu. “You want to start here, do something, and then move on to something else,” says Tang. “I always say I made my first pot of gold in Chinatown. But in order to really be successful, you » have to have other things in other parts of the city.”

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 20 min Serves 4 to 6

Jonathan Wu’s generous helping of shrimp turns a side dish into an unmissable menu item.

1 1/2 cups long-grain rice, rinsed and drained Kosher salt 7 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 12 raw medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped 5 medium eggs, beaten 1/2

tsp. sugar

1/4

tsp. black pepper

1 cup frozen peas, thawed 3 Tbsp. light soy sauce

1. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 1/4 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and a generous pinch of salt, and return to a boil. Stir once; cover and simmer over low heat until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, and let steam for 20 minutes. Fluff with a fork, and spread on a large baking sheet to cool completely, about 30 minutes.

2. In a very large skillet or wok, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the shrimp, and stir-fry over moderately high heat until nearly cooked through, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate.

Shrimp and egg fried rice at Nom Wah Tea Parlor.

3. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 5 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the eggs, and stir-fry over moderately high heat until small curds form and the eggs are nearly cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the rice, sugar, pepper, and a generous pinch of salt, and stirfry until the rice is hot, about 3 minutes. Add the shrimp, peas, and soy sauce, and stir-fry until the shrimp are cooked through and the peas are hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and serve immediately.

—JONATHAN WU, NOM WAH

WINE Fragrant Oregon Pinot Gris: 2016 Elk Cove Willamette Valley.

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Nom Wah Tea Parlorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basket of steaming soup dumplings.

Guests line up at Nom Wah for dishes like these “OG” egg rolls and greens with oyster sauce (opposite top, recipe p. 57).

Hannah Cheng and her sister Marian opened their first restaurant, Mimi Cheng’s Dumplings, in New York’s East Village, filling tasty little pot stickers (their mother’s recipe) with upmarket ingredients like pasture-raised pork, organic cabbage, and free-range eggs. The second location, opened last year on Broome Street, is only a few blocks from the Museum of Chinese in America. “We used to go to Chinatown a lot to do grocery shopping, to get haircuts, and to get Chinese newspapers,” says Hannah, who points out that the restaurant is technically just outside of Chinatown, in Nolita. “It’s a really special neighborhood to us because it’s the intersection of Chinatown and Little Italy, which basically sums us up.”

And there’s the rub. These restaurants and the food they serve are reflections of their owners’ experiences in America, both in and outside of their respective Chinatowns. Tang and Jew got their start in the neighborhood; the Chengs moved closer with their second location.

Thankfully, the borders of Chinatown are loosely defined and malleable. New generations move in and out, and as they do, they change the way food is cooked in the restaurants where their parents ate, and they influence the way their children will eat as well. In doing so, they are writing the next chapter in a narrative that is alternately triumphant and tragic, peculiar and ubiquitous. It’s a Chinatown story, but it’s also a deeply American one.

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Original Egg Rolls Active 1 hr 10 min; Total 2 hr Serves 6

Instead of using standard egg roll wrappers, Wu bundles the filling in egg “crêpes,” then dips them in batter before frying.

CRÊPES

Vegetable oil, for brushing 10 large eggs, beaten FILLING

10 dried shiitake mushrooms 2 Tbsp. light soy sauce 2 Tbsp. cornstarch, divided 1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 1/4 tsp. sugar, divided 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for frying 1/2

cup canned bamboo shoots, julienned

1/2

cup small button mushrooms

1/2

cup chopped baby corn

1/2

cup finely chopped celery

1/2

cup water chestnuts

1 small carrot, julienned 1 garlic clove, minced 6 oz. shredded cooked chicken breast Kosher salt and white pepper 1 cup all-purpose flour

1. Make the crêpes Heat a 9-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat. Brush the skillet lightly with vegetable oil, then add 1/3 cup of the eggs, swirling the pan to coat evenly.

Cook until light brown on the bottom and just set, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the crêpe to a plate and cover loosely to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining eggs, stacking the crêpes as they’re done, to form 6 total.

2. Make the filling In a small bowl, cover the dried shiitake mushrooms with boiling water and let stand until softened,

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about 20 minutes. Drain well and thinly slice.

3. In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce with 1 tablespoon of the cornstarch, the wine, sesame oil, and 1/4 teaspoon of the sugar. In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil until shimmering. Add the shiitakes, bamboo shoots, button mushrooms, baby corn, celery, water chestnuts, carrot, and garlic. Stir-fry over moderately high heat until the vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes.

Add the soy sauce mixture and cook until thickened, about 2 minutes. Scrape into a medium bowl, stir in the chicken, and season with salt and white pepper. Let cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes.

4. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon of cornstarch with 1 tablespoon of water. Place 1 crêpe on a work surface and spoon one-sixth of the filling onto one end. Roll up the crêpe into a neat bundle, folding in the sides. Dab the edges of the egg roll with cornstarch slurry to seal. Repeat with the remaining crêpes and filling to form 6 egg rolls.

5. In a medium bowl, whisk flour and remaining 1 teaspoon of sugar with 1 cup of water until smooth. In a large saucepan, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil to 350°. Fry egg rolls in two batches: Coat egg rolls in batter one at a time. Using tongs, carefully lower into the hot oil.

Fry until lightly browned and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat with remaining egg rolls and batter. Serve immediately.

MAKE AHEAD The filling can be prepared through Step 3 and chilled for up to 4 hours.

—JONATHAN WU, NOM WAH

WINE Vibrant, citrusy Cava: 2013 Gramona La Cuvee. continued on p. 86

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food styling: simon andrews; prop styling: kaitlyn du ross walker

D E L I C I O U S AS GLOBE-TROTTING OMNIVORE ANTHONY BOURDAIN RECOUNTS, WHEN IT COMES TO EATING WELL, LOOKS CERTAINLY ARENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T EVERYTHING.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

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This satisfying vegetarian cauliflower curry is fresh and bright tasting, with a subtle coconut flavor (recipe p. 74).

I T A L I A N S have an apt descriptor for a simple, crunchy-chewy hazelnut meringue cookie that tastes delicious but looks like something you’d scrape off your shoe after a visit to the dog park: brutti ma buoni, which means “ugly but good.” It’s a great name, though it’s honestly wasted on a cookie, when in fact there’s a whole world of food out there—and I’ve seen and tasted a lot of it—that rightfully could be called “ugly but good.”

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

The late cookbook author Marcella Hazan popularized this Italian method of slowcooking pork shoulder in milk, which yields a velvety sauce for spooning over the pork and sopping with bread (recipe p. 73).

A dash of fish sauce adds depth and an extra hit of umami to an otherwise classic Hungarian goulash (recipe p. 87).

NOW, I’LL BE THE FIRST to admit that I enjoy using social media—and Instagram in particular—as a way to shit-stir envy and rage among my chef friends (and anyone else who’s paying attention) when I’m eating a perfectly fried whole artichoke in Rome, a pile of freshly cracked crabs in Seattle, or a pornographic selection of cheeses in France. I know well the seductive power of a visually stunning food image. But I also know that some of the most inherently delicious food has been pickled, butchered, braised, stewed, and/or charred in a way that maximizes flavor, visual appeal be damned.

Take char kway teow, my absolute favorite dish from Singapore, as a good example. Flat rice noodles, cockles or prawns, bean sprouts, lap cheong (Chinese sausage), and fish cakes are stir-fried with soy sauce, fish sauce, shrimp paste, and pork fat. It’s uniformly brown, greasy, mushy, and, in general, not a looker. But it’s the first thing I go for in Singapore—or wherever else in the world I can find it—and it delivers a wallop of smoke, porkiness, fishy brine, and satisfying chew.

It’s neither a secret nor a surprise that limp, brown, stewy, soupy, unlovely-but-delicious food is often the food of poverty, or at least of necessary thrift. Feet, heads, snouts, organs, and tails are, of course, cheaper than whole-muscle meats. But when treated right—which is most often to say, when cooked slow and low, with plenty of aromatics and seasonings—the surrounding fat and connective tissue contribute greatly to hearty, satisfying flavor and mouthfeel. Chinese duck tongues with spicy mustard; Hungarian goulash; Indian fish-head curry from Kerala; Tuscan pork braised in milk; or a rich, black bowl of Brazilian feijoada—this humble, homely stuff is what most of the world really always has eaten, long before rainbow bagels and all other manner of look-at-me consumption.

A centerfold-worthy, rare rib eye steak is a social-media no-brainer with a high price tag (and, if you’re that guy, a dozen excruciating hashtags).

At a fraction of the cost to cook, a pot of earthy trippa alla Romana demands technical skill, patience, and the clarity of vision to recognize that, sometimes, the “ugly but good” guts are the glory.

AS TOLD TO LAURIE WOOLEVER

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Vinegar and brown sugar form a beautifully balanced glaze for Vietnamese-style chicken legs (recipe p. 74).

Serve with rice and steamed greens.

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Serve Banana Sticky Toffee Pudding warm for an extracomforting dessert (recipe p. 87).

Some of the most inherently delicious food has been pickled, stewed, or charred in a way that maximizes f lavor, visual appeal be damned.

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French green lentils soak up flavor and hold their shape after cooking, which make them the perfect legume for warm winter dishes.

Pork Braised in Milk

Spicy Kimchi Tofu Stew

page 67 Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 45 min Serves 6

Slow cooking pork shoulder in milk creates succulent meat and a caramelized, velvety sauce. Serve with crusty bread.

WARM SAUSAGE AND LENTIL SALAD Active 40 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4

3 cups whole milk 4 strips of lemon zest 3 sage sprigs 3 thyme sprigs

6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for serving Kosher salt and pepper 2 carrots, finely chopped 1/2

small fennel bulb, finely chopped

1 1/4 lb. garlic sausages, preferably French 1 1/2 cups green lentils, preferably du Puy (10 oz.)

2 shallots, halved 3 thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf 1 cup shelled walnuts (4 oz.)

1/4

cup chopped parsley, plus more for serving

1. In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar with the mustard.

Slowly drizzle in 1/4 cup of the olive oil, whisking constantly, until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

2. In a large nonreactive pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the carrots and fennel, and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Place the vegetables on a plate.

3. In the same pot, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1/2

1/8

Add the sausage, and cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the lentils, shallots, thyme, bay leaf, and 5 cups of water; bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until the sausage is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Using tongs, remove the sausage to a work surface. Cover and cook the lentils until tender, about 15 minutes.

tsp. baking soda

6 small leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise

1. Preheat the oven to 275°.

Season the pork with salt and pepper. In a medium-size nonreactive oven-safe pot, melt the butter. Add the pork, and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Add the milk, zest, sage, thyme, bay leaves, and baking soda; cover and bring to a simmer. Transfer to the oven, and cook, covered, turning the pork a few times, for 2 hours and 40 minutes. Using tongs, carefully lift the pork and place the leeks underneath. Return to the oven and cook, uncovered, until the leeks and pork are very tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the walnuts on a small rimmed baking sheet, and toast until browned, 8 to 9 minutes, tossing once halfway through. Let cool, and coarsely chop.

5. Partially drain the lentils, leaving them saucy. Discard the shallots, thyme, and bay leaf. Add the carrots and fennel to the lentils, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the vinaigrette. Thinly slice the sausage, and add to the lentils. Stir in the 1/4 cup of parsley. Top with the walnuts, sprinkle with more parsley, and drizzle with olive oil. Serve with mustard.

2. Transfer the pork and leeks to a work surface. Discard the herbs and zest. Pour pan juices, which may look curdled, into a blender, and puree until smooth. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper.

lb. pork belly, cut into 1/2 inch pieces One 1-lb. jar kimchi, drained, 1/4 cup liquid reserved

Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

3 bay leaves, preferably fresh

2 tsp. Dijon mustard, plus more for serving

Stop at a Korean market on the way home from work, and you can have this soothing, vibrant dish on the table in 30 minutes.

1 boneless pork shoulder (3 1/2 lb.), tied

This earthy French classic with smoked sausages, green lentils, and pungent mustard vinaigrette is custom-tailored for winter weekends in front of the fire. Updated twist: Toasted walnuts add great contrast and crunch.

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

Total 30 min; Serves 4

1/2

onion, thinly sliced

4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. gochujang (Korean red pepper paste) 1 Tbsp. gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes) Kosher salt One 14-oz. container silken tofu, cut into large pieces Steamed short-grain rice, for serving

1. In a medium-size nonreactive pot, cook the pork belly pieces over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is sizzling and the pork is light golden, about 8 minutes. Add the kimchi and the onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the reserved kimchi liquid, mushrooms, gochujang, gochugaru, and 4 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, and cook over moderately low heat for 10 minutes.

3. Season the stew with salt.

Stir in the tofu, breaking it up slightly with the spoon, and bring to a boil; remove from the heat. Serve the stew hot with steamed rice.

WINE Off-dry French Chenin Blanc: 2015 François Pinon Les Trois Argiles.

3. Remove the strings from the pork, and thinly slice the meat.

Serve pork slices with the leeks and sauce.

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 3 and refrigerated overnight.

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated overnight. Reheat before proceeding to Step 2.

WINE Plummy Mediterranean red: 2014 Domaine Lafage Cuvée Nicolas.

WINE Cherry-inflected Tuscan Sangiovese: 2014 Altesino Rosso di Altesino.

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Cauliflower Curry page 65

Fish Sauce– Caramel Chicken page 70

Total 40 min; Serves 4

This coconut-infused curry is thickened with a vegetable puree that coats the cauliflower for a rich-tasting vegetarian main course. And it’s endlessly variable: Swap in green beans, eggplant, carrots, potatoes, or a mix for the cauliflower.

Total 45 min; Serves 4

This addictive take on ga kho gung, Vietnamese caramelized chicken with ginger and fish sauce, is sweetened with shallots, garlic, and palm sugar.

4 whole chicken legs (2 1/2 lb.)

1 onion, chopped

4 Tbsp. neutral oil, divided

3 large garlic cloves

3 large shallots, thinly sliced

One 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped 1/4

4 garlic cloves One 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled, julienned

cup coconut oil

2 tsp. garam masala 1 tsp. ground turmeric

1/2

3 Tbsp. rice vinegar

1 long Indian green chile or Thai bird chile, sliced, plus more for serving

1 jalapeño, sliced

Steamed basmati rice, plain yogurt, and lime pickle, for serving

1. In a food processor, pulse the onion, tomatoes, garlic, and ginger until a paste forms. In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil.

Add the onion paste, and cook over moderately high heat, stirring often, until the paste is thickened, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the garam masala and turmeric, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the cauliflower, chile, and 2 cups of water. Season generously with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over moderately low heat until the cauliflower is just tender, about 10 minutes. Serve with rice, yogurt, lime pickle, and sliced chiles.

WINE Citrusy Australian Riesling: 2016 Pewsey Vale Eden Valley.

Total 35 min; Serves 4

cup palm sugar or light brown sugar

1 head of cauliflower (1½ lb.), cut into florets

Kosher salt and pepper

ROASTED MUSHROOM AND VERMOUTH RISOTTO

Kosher salt and pepper

3 small plum tomatoes

Roasting mushrooms concentrates their flavor, while dry vermouth offers an aromatic kick to this otherwise classic risotto.

2 Tbsp. fish sauce

1. Season chicken with salt and pepper. In a deep 12-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add chicken to skillet, skin side down. Cook over moderately high heat until browned, about 5 minutes. Turn chicken and brown other side, about 4 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Pour the oil out of the skillet and discard.

1 lb. mixed wild mushrooms, such as oyster, hen-of-thewoods, and chanterelle, torn into small pieces 1/4

Kosher salt and pepper 7 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

2. Return skillet to moderate heat. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil, shallots, garlic, and ginger; cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes.

1/4

cup unsalted butter, divided

4 shallots, minced (about 3/4 cup) 1 1/2 cups arborio rice

3. Add sugar, vinegar, fish sauce, and 1/2 cup water to skillet. Bring to a boil, and return chicken to skillet, skin side down. Simmer over moderate heat, occasionally basting the chicken, 8 minutes. Turn chicken and continue basting, adding water by tablespoonfuls if sauce thickens too rapidly, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of chicken registers 165° and sauce is thickened, about 15 minutes. Add jalapeño, and toss to coat in sauce. Transfer chicken to a platter, and drizzle sauce over the chicken.

1 cup dry vermouth 1/2

cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425°.

On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the mushrooms with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Spread the mushrooms in an even layer, and roast until golden and crisp, about 15 minutes, tossing halfway through.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, bring the broth to a simmer. Keep warm.

WINE Off-dry Riesling: 2015 Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl.

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cup extra-virgin olive oil

3. In a large, deep skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the

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butter. Add the shallots; cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the rice, and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Add the vermouth and cook, stirring until the vermouth is absorbed, about 2 minutes.

Add 1 cup of the warm broth; cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until nearly absorbed. Continue adding the broth 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly, until it’s nearly absorbed between additions, for 15 minutes.

4. Add half of the roasted mushrooms to the risotto.

Cook the risotto, adding more broth as needed, until the rice is just tender and suspended in a thick, creamy sauce, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, topped with the remaining half of the roasted mushrooms and more Parmesan.

WINE Earthy Umbrian red: 2014 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Rosso.

continued on p. 87 F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

Roasting mushrooms while the rice cooks helps this risotto come together in just 35 minutes.

Dinner party winner: Erin and Brooks Reitz serve crispy pizza with stracciatella cheese and fresh basil (recipe p. 89).

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THE

R e i t z CHARLESTON’S BROOKS REITZ AND HIS WIFE, ERIN, SHARE AN ECLECTIC DESIGN SENSE THAT ENLIVENS THEIR HOME AS

Stuff

WELL AS HIS INCREDIBLY POPULAR RESTAURANTS— AS THEIR FRIENDS FIND WHEN THEY ARRIVE FOR A FESTIVE DINNER PARTY TO PREVIEW HIS LATEST VENTURE: THE ROMANSTYLE PIZZERIA MELFI’S.

BY MATT LEE AND TED LEE PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

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i

N BROOKS AND ERIN REITZ’S sunny bungalow in a northern neighborhood of Charleston, every object tells a specific travel story—and there are many. On one side table alone rest a 1970s Danish modern desk calendar gifted from a shopkeeper in Copenhagen; an ashtray pilfered from Rosati, Rome’s iconic Art Deco café; and a collection of pecan-sized bud vases from a craft collective in western North Carolina. In less capable hands, such a dense assortment of tchotchkes might feel like the work of a hoarder, but the Reitzes have a knack for weaving these mementos into a space that feels serene, modern, and comfortable.

At 34, Brooks Reitz (pronounced “rights”) is one of the Holy City’s youngest restaurant owners, and his places show signs of that magpie urge to jumble things up. Leon’s Oyster Shop, his first restaurant, is an ode to New Orleans oyster bars—and to fried chicken spots in his native Kentucky. His second, Little Jack’s Tavern, is a midcentury New York–style saloon crossed with a Cornish country pub. But the lived-in homeyness of his places (and the spot-on consistency of their kitchens) is just right for these times. In the bustling, even chaotic, Charleston restaurant scene, Brooks’s places have become instant classics.

“I design my restaurants, but I hesitate to call myself a ‘designer,’” he says. “I just borrow all these little pieces from places I’ve been. It’s stitching them together that’s original.”

Like many young food and design tastemakers, the Reitzes have hyphenate jobs. They met five years ago, when Brooks

was managing Mike Lata’s seafood temple, The Ordinary, and Erin walked in with a friend for lunch. Smitten, Brooks lingered at the table long enough to learn Erin was a clothing designer on the verge of hanging out a shingle for her own housewares business. He told her about his own sideline, Jack Rudy, a tonic syrup he’d developed out of frustration with sickly sweet tonic water; it was already a hit with cocktail hounds. And he offered to share some tips he’d learned (trial by fire) in the packing and shipping of fragile goods. As for Erin, she followed up—and not just for mail-order counsel from Brooks, who is four years her junior. “I robbed the cradle,” she says. “And you can quote me on that!”

Nowadays, Jack Rudy is a line of cocktail syrups and bitters stocked in 46 states, from Surdyk’s in Minneapolis to Stone Creek Kitchen in Monterey, California. And in addition to designing clothing for the cult label Alabama Chanin, Erin also has created the Shelter Collection, her own line of glassware and pottery. Its clean, minimalist lines seem to echo the role she has in the design dialogue between the couple: the serene, grounding influence.

Today, they’ve invited some of their closest friends over to workshop some recipes and design elements for Brooks’s third restaurant, Melfi’s, on the eve of its opening. Housed in a former apothecary on Upper King Street, with wide pine floors and original tin ceilings, Melfi’s will—not surprisingly— be another mash-up, taking inspiration from the legendary »

The Reitzes test pizza toppings, LEFT, as Kate and Ben Towill relax with other guests.

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food styling: vivian lui; style editor: suzie myers. (opener) small ramekins and glasses from the shelter collection

Cyrus Buffum gets a tonic topper on his Negroni. Erin Reitz, LEFT, tucks into beef tartare (recipe p. 89).

Negroni and Tonic Total 5 min; Makes 1 cocktail

This twist on a gin and tonic gets a bitter kick from Campari and grapefruit peel.

Ice 1 oz. Jack Rudy Classic Tonic Syrup (see Note) 1/2

oz. gin

1/2

oz. sweet vermouth

1/2

oz. Campari Soda water

1 large strip of grapefruit zest

Fill a chilled collins glass with ice. Add the tonic syrup, gin, vermouth, and Campari and stir well. Top with soda water, garnish with the grapefruit zest, and serve.

NOTE Zippy Jack Rudy Classic Tonic Syrup is a concentrated blend of quinine, sugar, lemongrass, and orange peel.

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Crushed red pepper and lemon juice add zing to this shaved mushroom and pecorino salad.

COOK THE COVER

Shaved Mushroom and Pecorino Salad Total 20 min; Serves 8 Brooks Reitzâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s salad has only a few components, so find the finest, freshest, most expertly sourced ingredients.

1/3

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1/4

cup fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley 1/4

tsp. crushed red pepper Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. fresh white button mushrooms, very thinly sliced (preferably on a mandoline) 2 oz. pecorino cheese, shaved

1. In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice, parsley, and red pepper. Season generously with salt and pepper.

2. Spread half of the mushrooms on a large platter. Drizzle with half of the dressing and sprinkle with half of the cheese.

Repeat with the remaining mushrooms, dressing, and cheese. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

WINE Savory Langhe Nebbiolo: 2014 Damilano Marghe.

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THE CASUAL, FUN FEEL OF THIS DINNER PARTY IS SOMETHING BROOKS HOPES TO REPLICATE AT MELFI’S, HIS NEW ROMANSTYLE PIZZA

(opposite) bowls by humble ceramics

PLACE.

Pizzeria da Baffetto, which he and Erin fell in love with on their first trip to Rome and where Brooks had a revelation about Baffetto’s textbook-Roman thin-crust pizze. They were, he realized, Italian analogues to the “bar pizza” he’d devoured in cozy Midwestern taverns when he was growing up. “Bar pizza is made with commodity cheese and low-quality sauce, but in Rome they were using the best tomatoes, amazing cheese, and a wood-burning oven instead of a deck oven,” he says. Melfi’s will be his tribute to both, with top-quality pizze in a space with a lived-in, comfortable vibe.

When they arrive, the guests tumble in the front door like a band of teenagers. The first in, Cyrus Buffum, a water quality

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

advocate turned oyster harvester (his Seaborn Oyster Co. has small leases in the marshes north of Charleston), hands over jars of colatura, the Italian fermented anchovy sauce. The vibe is raucous and warm; the entire group hasn’t been together since the Reitzes’ July 2016 wedding, an intimate affair (parents, siblings, and these six friends) at a ramshackle inn in the English countryside. Brooks pours Negroni and tonics for Ben and Kate Towill, also a restaurateur-designer team, who have a 3-month-old baby. The cocktail was designed for the Melfi’s menu and is made with Jack Rudy’s latest product, a tonic water about to hit the shelves at Whole Foods Markets nationwide. As the friends tuck into shaved mushroom and »

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THE

R e i t z

1

Stuff BOTH BROOKS AND ERIN REITZ SEEK OUT DESIGN INSPIRATION EVERY TIME THEY TRAVEL AND FILL THEIR HOUSE WITH THEIR FINDS.

1. M o d e r n Vi n ta ge

2. Re sta u ra n t R i c h e s

The Reitzes fell in love with the form and function of this white Bakelite desk calendar at an hourglass shop in Copenhagen. “We spent so much time admiring it,” Erin says. “In the end, the shopkeeper just gave it to us!”

Restaurant collateral— menus, coasters, ashtrays, and more—amassed over 15 years is a prime source of inspiration for Brooks, not only for type styles but also for insight into cooking trends that have come and gone.

3. A u st i n S ty l e

4. Lo n d o n P i g

Brooks and Erin are fans of the eclectic yet elegant interiors of Texas hospitality maven Liz Lambert. This ashtray and matchbook were picked up at Lambert’s Hotel Saint Cecilia in Austin.

On one of their annual trips to London, the Reitzes (self-confessed Anglophiles) scored this ashtray, with its butcher’s illustration of a pig, from Fergus Henderson’s famed nose-to-tail restaurant St. John.

5. C e l e b r i ty K i ts c h

6. T h e Pe r fe c t G l a ss

Hotel notepads and postcards yield design concepts. A vintage shot of Jack Kerouac encouraged Brooks to use a Victor Bockris photo of Muhammad and Hana Ali on the postcard for Little Jack’s Tavern.

Stemmed, pale pink Negroni glasses from Bar Termini in London were a reminder to Brooks that “we can interpret a classic drink and make it unique, even when there are thousands of bars serving it all over the world.”

7. Fo r m a n d Fu n c t i o n

8. To p To n i c

Erin loved selling these can openers, made from lengths of brass hexagonal bar, at her much-loved shop The Commons. But she recently sold the business to her partner to focus on her own Shelter Collection housewares.

This label for the Jack Rudy Tonic Water, hitting markets this fall, takes inspiration from an antique apothecary bottle photographed in a Southern cookbook in the Reitzes’ library.

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3

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2

7

4

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The Reitzesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; buffetstyle dinner finishes off with silky yogurt panna cotta, OPPOSITE (recipe p. 89).

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Lemony ZucchiniFregola Salad Total 40 min; Serves 8

Roasting zucchini turns them soft and concentrates their flavor. Chunks of them are tossed with alluringly chewy nubs of fregola pasta and crunchy pistachios, then brightly seasoned with lemon, fragrant basil leaves, and a hit of crushed red pepper.

3 large zucchini (2 1/2 lb.), cut in half lengthwise and sliced crosswise into 1/2 inch half-moons 1/2

cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. uncooked fregola 1 cup unsalted roasted shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped 3/4

cup packed torn basil leaves

1/2

tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. crushed red pepper

pecorino salad and beef tartare seasoned with ParmigianoReggiano and Buffum’s colatura, talk turns quickly to the new restaurant. Brooks describes the six large-scale illustrations of jaunty, urbane swells he bought in Rome by artist Andrea Ferolla (of the duo behind the Via di Monserrato design boutique Chez Dédé) that will be the only art on display in the space. A 1940s Brunswick bar and backbar were sourced in Pennsylvania, but there will be new elements, too: tabletops and a banquette custom-covered in leather from the Virginia tannery Moore & Giles and hardwired lamps for the bar top from the North Charleston firm The Urban Electric Co. But there’s been a hitch.

New ceiling fans have dashed his original idea for hanging fixtures, so he needs the very friends who are raving about the mushroom salad, Stefanie Brechbuehler and Robert Highsmith, the designers behind the interior design firm Workstead, to pay a site visit for some advice.

Then it’s time for the main event. The Reitzes set out a buffet on the dining room table. There’s fregola with lemon and zucchini and a chopped salad composed of classic antipasto elements: soppressata, peperoncini, black olives, and provolone.

A selection of sheet pan pizzas includes pistachio pesto with ricotta and a classic Roman combination of tomato sauce, stretchy stracciatella cheese, and fresh basil leaves. As people begin to rave about them, Brooks makes a confession: Although these are the toppings he intends to serve at Melfi’s, the crust isn’t exactly the crackery, thin Roman-style crust that will be found there. He’s lacking the 800-degree wood-burning ovens Melfi’s will have and also, he admits, the requisite skill with the notoriously labor-intensive dough, which requires a stretching and resting process that can test the patience of even the most experienced baker.

“I mean, I love y’all,” he says. “I really do. But in this kitchen…?” recipes continued on p. 89

(opposite) large salad bowl by humble ceramics; dinner plates and glasses from the shelter collection. (right) ceramic by miro made this

1. Preheat the oven to 450°.

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven. In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with 1/4 cup of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Divide the zucchini between 2 rimmed baking sheets and spread in even layers. Roast until tender, about 30 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through. Let cool.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot

of salted water to a boil. Add the fregola and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fregola is al dente, about 10 minutes.

Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Let cool.

3. Add the zucchini, the remain-

ing 1/4 cup olive oil, pistachios, basil, lemon zest and juice, and crushed red pepper to the fregola. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Serve.

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CHINATOWN from p. 63

Halibut with Smoked Oyster Sauce page 57 Active 40 min; Total 2 hr Serves 4

Brandon Jew’s halibut appears delicate because the snow-white fish is served in a golden broth. But the dish gets soul-deep funk from dried mushrooms, seaweed, and fermented black beans.

6 cups clam broth 2 cups dried shiitake mushrooms (2 oz.)

2 celery stalks, chopped 1 fennel bulb (10 oz.), chopped One 8-by-6-inch piece of dried kombu (1 oz.)

Kosher salt and pepper 1 Tbsp. fermented black beans 1 Tbsp. sunflower or peanut oil 2 garlic cloves, minced One 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced 1/3

cup smoked oysters (one-half 3.7-oz. can)

1 Tbsp. oyster sauce

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the fermented black beans with 1 inch of water, and let soak for 20 minutes.

2 lb. steamed Dungeness crab, King crab, or other hard crab legs, shells and meat separated

3. In a small skillet, heat the sunflower oil.

Add the garlic and minced ginger, and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the garlic is golden brown, about 1 minute.

1 lemongrass stalk, smashed and chopped

4. Drain the black beans, discarding the liquid. In a food processor, pulse the black beans, garlic mixture, smoked oysters, oyster sauce, and 2 tablespoons of water until smooth. Scrape the smoked oyster sauce into a small bowl.

5. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the rice bran oil until shimmering.

Season the fish with salt and pepper, and cook over moderately high heat until opaque throughout, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a heatproof platter.

6. In a small skillet, heat the peanut oil until very hot, about 1 minute. Immediately pour the oil over the fish.

7. Dollop the smoked oyster sauce in 4 shallow bowls. Set fish on top. Ladle the warm broth around the fish. In a medium bowl, toss the tatsoi with the lemon juice and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of rice bran oil, and season with salt. Scatter the tatsoi around the fish and garnish with the scallions and julienned ginger. Serve hot.

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 4 up to 4 hours ahead.

—BRANDON JEW, MISTER JIU’S

WINE Flinty Pouilly-Fumé: 2015 de Ladoucette.

Hot-and-Sour Soup page 55

1/2

1 Tbsp. plus tsp. rice bran or peanut oil, divided Four 5- to 6-oz. skinless halibut fillets 2 Tbsp. peanut oil 2 oz. baby tatsoi 1/2

tsp. fresh lemon juice

4 scallions, white and light green parts only, finely julienned Two 1-inch pieces of ginger, peeled and finely julienned

1. Set a fine sieve over a large bowl. In a medium saucepan, combine the clam broth, mushrooms, celery, fennel, kombu, and 4 cups of water; bring to a simmer.

Cook over low heat for 1 hour. Strain the broth into the prepared bowl; discard the solids. Season the broth with salt, if needed, and keep warm.

Active 1 hr; Total 4 hr Serves 4

This is the hot-and-sour soup of your dreams: It’s an alluring mix of pliant mushrooms, springy cubes of tofu, and sweet crabmeat in a rich broth. Feel free to add a few pieces of seasonal vegetables, like tomatoes or peas, to each bowl.

5 lb. fish bones 4 cups ice cubes 1 celery stalk, chopped

1 cup Shaoxing wine 1/4

cup black vinegar, plus more for serving Kosher salt and white pepper

24 dried lily bulbs 4 oz. fresh nameko or honshimeji mushrooms 4 oz. fresh wood ear mushrooms 7 oz. firm tofu or yuba sheets, cut into 3/4 -inch pieces Cilantro leaves and nasturtium petals, for serving 1. Set a large fine sieve over a large pot. In a separate large stockpot, combine the fish bones, ice cubes, and 5 quarts of water, and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, skimming. Add the celery, fennel, leek, ginger, lemon zest, and parsley, and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Strain the broth into the prepared pot; discard the solids.

2. Wipe out the stockpot. Add 1/4 cup of the oil, the onions, crab shells, and lemongrass, and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, and cook, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom, until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the broth, bring to a simmer, and cook over moderately low heat for 1 hour.

Wipe out the large pot, and set a large fine sieve on top. Strain the broth; discard the solids. Add the black vinegar, and season with salt and white pepper.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cover the lily buds with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain, and discard the tough tips.

4. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add all of the mushrooms, and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Spoon the mushrooms, lily bulbs, tofu, cilantro, nasturtium petals, and crabmeat into 4 bowls. Ladle in the broth, and serve with extra black vinegar.

1/2

fennel bulb, chopped

1/2

leek, chopped

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated overnight.

One 1-inch piece of ginger, chopped

—BRANDON JEW, MISTER JIU’S

2 strips of lemon zest 1 parsley sprig 1/4

cup plus 2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided

3 white onions, chopped (1 1/2 lb.)

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UGLY DELICIOUS from p. 75

Salt-and-Pepper Pork Chops Active 40 min; Total 2 hr 40 min Serves 4

Marinating thin pork chops in a cornstarch slurry (a.k.a. velveting) produces supertender meat. Plus, the five-spice powder and pepper sprinkled on the fried chops tastes like a touch of fairy dust.

1 large egg

Banana Sticky Toffee Pudding

Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min Serves 8

Overripe bananas add flavor and decadence to this classic cake-like dessert.

Serve with unsweetened whipped cream to balance the sweet dates and toffee sauce.

Hungarian paprika and caraway seeds jump-start the flavor development of this comforting stew.

1/2

cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided, plus more for greasing

3/4

cup boiling water

cup potato starch Kosher salt

1 tsp. baking soda 1 1/2

Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for frying Four 4-oz. boneless pork chops, lightly pounded Chinese five-spice powder and white pepper, for dusting

page 68

page 71 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr Serves 9

1 1/4 cups cornstarch, divided 1/4

Hungarian Goulash

6 oz. pitted dates, chopped (1 cup) 1 tsp. baking soda 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1 3/4 cups light brown sugar

6 oz. thinly sliced bacon, chopped 2 1/2 lb. well-marbled boneless beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2 -inch pieces Kosher salt and pepper 2 onions, chopped 1/4

cup Hungarian sweet paprika

1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1/2

tsp. caraway seeds

2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar, divided 1 1/2 lb. small Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces

Thinly sliced jalapeño, for garnish

2 large eggs

1 green bell pepper, chopped

Steamed white rice, for serving

2 medium-size overripe bananas, mashed (1 cup)

2 tsp. fish sauce, optional

1. In a large bowl, beat the egg with 2 cups of water, 1/4 cup of the cornstarch, the potato starch, 1 tablespoon of salt, the baking soda, and the 1 1/2 tablespoons of canola oil. Add the pork, and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

2. In a large saucepan, heat 3 inches of canola oil to 350°. Spread the remaining 1 cup of cornstarch in a shallow bowl.

Remove 2 of the pork chops from the batter, letting the excess batter drip back into the bowl, then dredge in the cornstarch.

Add the coated pork to the hot oil, and fry until golden and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer to paper towels to drain. Dust with five-spice powder and white pepper, and season with salt. Repeat with the remaining 2 pork chops.

3. Transfer the pork chops to a carving board and cut into strips. Transfer to plates or a platter, top with jalapeño, and serve with white rice. —JONATHAN WU, NOM WAH WINE Peppery Chilean Pinot Noir: 2015

Kingston Family Vineyards Tobiano.

1/2

cup heavy cream Unsweetened whipped cream, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9-inch square metal cake pan with butter. In a small heatproof bowl, pour the boiling water over the dates; stir in the baking soda. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat 1/4 cup of the butter with 3/4 cup of the brown sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. At low speed, beat in the flour mixture until just combined. Add the date mixture and bananas, and beat at low speed until just combined.

3. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the heavy cream, the remaining 1/4 cup of butter, and the remaining 1 cup of brown sugar. Bring to a gentle boil over moderate heat, and cook until slightly thickened and deep golden, about 3 minutes. Keep warm.

5. Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Using a skewer or toothpick, poke holes all over the cake. Pour half of the warm sauce over the cake, and let stand until absorbed, about 10 minutes. Serve warm with the remaining sauce and the whipped cream.

Sour cream and toasted rye bread, for serving

1. In a large Dutch oven, cook bacon over moderate heat until crisp, about 7 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a plate, leaving fat in pan.

2. Season beef with salt and pepper. In batches, add beef to pot, and cook in bacon fat over moderately high heat until browned all over, about 5 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer beef to plate with bacon.

3. Add 1/4 cup of water and onions to pot.

Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon and scraping up browned bits, until all liquid is evaporated and onion is softened, about 6 minutes. Add paprika, tomato paste, and caraway seeds; cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

4. Add 7 cups of water and 1 tablespoon of the apple cider vinegar; return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pot.

Bring the goulash to a boil, cover partially, and simmer over low heat for 1 1/2 hours.

5. Add potatoes and bell pepper to pot, and simmer, partially covered, over low heat until beef is very tender and sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 hour.

6. Stir in fish sauce, if using, and remaining 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve with sour cream and rye bread.

MAKE AHEAD The goulash can be cooled, covered, then chilled for up to 2 days.

WINE Medium-bodied Hungarian white:

2015 Royal Tokaji The Oddity Furmint.

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THE REITZ STUFF from p. 85

Beef Tartare with Celery and Parmigiano-Reggiano page 79 Total 15 min; Serves 8

Crumbly cheese, crunchy celery, and umamirich colatura, made from anchovies, give this tartare layers of flavor and texture.

1/2

baguette, cut diagonally into 1/4 -inchthick slices

1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing One 1 1/4 -oz. chunk ParmigianoReggiano cheese, chopped

1 tsp. colatura or Asian fish sauce 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water, and let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring cream and vanilla bean and seeds to a simmer, and cook over moderately low heat for 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat, and whisk in gelatin mixture.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk sugar with olive oil until combined. Whisk in yogurt until smooth. Gradually whisk in the vanilla cream; remove and discard vanilla bean.

Pour mixture into eight 6-ounce ramekins and refrigerate until set, at least 3 hours and up to 2 days.

3. Drop a tablespoon of marmalade on each panna cotta. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve.

tsp. crushed red pepper

2 lb. Angus beef tenderloin, cut into 1/4 -inch dice 1 celery stalk, finely chopped, plus leaves for garnish Kosher salt and pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Arrange baguette slices on a large baking sheet, and brush each with olive oil. Bake until crostini are golden brown, about 7 minutes. Let cool.

2. In a mini food processor, pulse cheese until finely crumbled. In a large bowl, whisk cheese with the 1/4 cup olive oil, colatura, lemon juice, and crushed red pepper. Add beef and chopped celery, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with celery leaves, and serve with crostini.

WINE Sparkling rosé from Italy: NV Berlucchi Franciacorta Rosé.

Roman Pizza page 84

a simmer. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper, and let cool.

5. Brush a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon olive oil and press dough into pan. Using fingers, dimple the dough all over and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Let dough rise until puffed, about 30 minutes.

6. Preheat oven to 450°. Spread 6 tablespoons sauce over dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border; reserve remaining sauce for another use. Tear stracciatella into pieces and scatter over pizza. Bake until crust is golden and the cheese is lightly browned, about 25 minutes. Scatter basil leaves over pizza and serve.

WINE Juicy sparkling Lambrusco: NV Cleto Chiarli Grasparossa di Castelvetro.

Antipasto Chopped Salad

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 45 min Makes 12 slices This pie uses focaccia as the base for a simple topping of tomatoes, melty stracciatella cheese, and basil.

3/4

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

tsp. sugar

1 3/4 cups plus 2 Tbsp. bread flour, divided, plus more for dusting 7 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 3/4

Total 20 min; Serves 8

There is something naughty—and really delicious—about eating a green salad studded with rich nuggets of cheese and salami.

cup warm water (100° to 110°)

1 1/2 tsp. active dry yeast 1/4

page 84

tsp. kosher salt

1 small garlic clove, finely grated

1 Tbsp. chopped parsley 1 1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2

garlic clove, minced

1/2

tsp. dried basil

1/8

Pinch of dried oregano

Kosher salt and pepper

Kosher salt and pepper One 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained

8 oz. stracciatella cheese

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Marmalade and Olive Oil page 85 Active 20 min; Total 3 hr 20 min Serves 8

Brooks Reitz liked the tangy-sweet panna cotta at Jody Williams’s restaurant, Via Carota in New York City, so much that he put it on his menu at Melfi’s.

One 1/4 -oz. envelope unflavored gelatin 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped 1/2

cup sugar

1/3

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 1/2

cup orange marmalade Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

tsp. crushed red pepper

One 15-oz. can crushed tomatoes

Torn basil leaves, for garnish

1. In a large bowl, stir together warm water with yeast and sugar and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir 3/4 cup flour and 3 tablespoons olive oil into yeast mixture. Let stand until small bubbles appear, about 20 minutes.

3. Brush a large bowl with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Stir remaining 1 cup and 2 tablespoons flour and 3/4 teaspoon salt into dough. On a lightly floured work surface, knead the dough until it comes together in a uniform ball. Transfer to prepared bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until garlic begins to turn light golden, about 30 seconds. Stir in crushed tomatoes and bring to

89

1 heart of romaine (8 oz.), sliced 1/2

small head of radicchio, sliced

1 small English cucumber, chopped 4 1/2 oz. soppressata, diced 4 oz. provolone cheese, diced 4 oz. black olives, pitted and chopped 1/2

small red onion, thinly sliced

1/4

cup chopped peperoncini peppers

1/4

cup packed celery leaves

In a large bowl, whisk the olive oil with the vinegar, parsley, lemon juice, garlic, basil, crushed red pepper, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chickpeas, romaine, radicchio, cucumber, soppressata, provolone, black olives, onion, peperoncini, and celery leaves; toss to coat.

WINE Crisp Italian rosé: 2016 Cantele Negroamaro Rosato.

J A N UA R Y 2018

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MOST WANTED from p. 92 slightly, and discard the foil. Halve the potatoes lengthwise. Spoon the flesh into a medium bowl and mash with a fork. Discard the skins.

Sweet Potato–Salted Pecan Sticky Buns page 92 Active 1 hr 45 min; Total 5 hr 40 min Makes 12 DOUGH

2 sweet potatoes (1 lb.)

1 1/4

cups whole milk One 1/4 -oz. envelope active dry yeast

1/4

cup warm water

5 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for dusting 3/4

1 1/2 1/2

cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided tsp. kosher salt cup vegetable shortening

2 large eggs 1/2

tsp. finely grated orange zest Unsalted butter, for brushing

FILLING

1 1/4 cups pecan halves (4 1/2 oz.)

1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature 1/4

cup sugar

2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

SALTED PECANS

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 1/4 cups pecan halves (4 1/2 oz.), coarsely chopped 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

CARAMEL

1 cup sugar 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1/2

cup whole milk

1/4

tsp. kosher salt

CINNAMON BUTTER 1/4

cup unsalted butter

1/2

tsp. ground cinnamon

1. Make the dough Preheat the oven to 425°. Pierce the sweet potatoes all over with a fork, and wrap each potato tightly in aluminum foil. Place on a baking sheet and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Let cool

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. In a small saucepan, warm the milk over moderate heat until bubbles appear around the edge; remove from the heat. In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the warm water, and let stand until bubbly, about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the warm milk with the yeast mixture, 2 cups of the flour, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and the salt. Let stand in a warm place until bubbly, about 15 minutes.

3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the shortening with the remaining 3/4 cup of sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Beat in 3/4 cup of the mashed sweet potato and the orange zest; reserve the remaining potato for the filling. Beat in the bubbly milk mixture and the remaining 3 cups of flour at mediumlow speed until a smooth, sticky dough forms, about 4 minutes. Scrape the dough into a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

crosswise into 6 equal slices, about 1 1/2 inches thick. Arrange the buns, cut side up, in the prepared cake pans. Cover the pans with plastic wrap, and let the buns rise in a warm place until almost doubled in size, about 40 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, make the caramel In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil, and cook over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until deep amber, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, and carefully whisk in the butter. Gradually whisk in the milk and salt. Return the pan to moderately high heat, and simmer until the caramel has thickened slightly, about 1 minute. Keep warm.

9. Make the cinnamon butter In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the cinnamon.

Keep warm.

10. Preheat the oven to 375°. Remove the plastic wrap from the cake pans, and bake the buns until golden and risen, about 25 minutes. Immediately brush the buns with the warm cinnamon butter, and drizzle with the warm caramel. Sprinkle the buns with the remaining salted pecans. Let cool slightly, and serve warm.

4. Make the filling Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread the pecans on a small rimmed baking sheet, and bake until browned, about 6 minutes, stirring halfway through.

Transfer the pecans to a food processor, let cool, then pulse until finely chopped. Add 1/2 cup of the reserved mashed sweet potato, the stick of butter, sugar, maple syrup, and salt, and pulse until smooth.

Scrape the filling into a small bowl.

5. Make the salted pecans In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the pecans, and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 4 minutes. Scrape onto a plate, and season with the salt.

6. Make the buns Turn the dough out onto a generously floured work surface, and cut the dough in half. Working with 1 piece at a time, roll out the dough to a 9-by-7-inch rectangle, about 1/4 inch thick. Spread half of the filling over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle one-fourth of the salted pecans evenly over the filling. Brush one long side with water. Starting from the opposite long side, roll up the dough into a tight log, and pinch the ends to seal. Transfer to a baking sheet and refrigerate until chilled, about 20 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough, filling, and one-fourth of the salted pecans.

7. Generously brush two 9-inch square metal cake pans with butter. Transfer the logs to a work surface, and cut each

91

J A N UA R Y 2018

RECIPE REQUEST

MOST WANTED

+

HUNGRY FOR MORE?

Sweet and Sticky EASTERN NORTH CAROLINA grows 60 percent of the sweet potato crop in the United States. “They are a cornerstone of the diet here. My grandfather left lunch with a hot sweet potato in his pocket for an afternoon snack,” says Vivian Howard, the star of PBS’s A Chef’s Life and owner of several local spots: Chef & the Farmer and Boiler Room in Kinston and Benny’s Big Time Pizzeria in Wilmington.

So when her new cafe, Handy and Hot, opens in Kinston early this year, it will offer sticky buns fortified with local J A N UA R Y 2018

sweet potatoes. Modeled after the honey bun, another local staple, Howard’s sticky buns (p. 91) will come with a twist—a shower of salty toasted pecans.

What tips does the chef have for inexperienced sticky bun bakers? “Find a warm, sunny window for proofing the dough,” she says. “Really, the most important thing is that the proofed buns touch each other in the pan, so they don’t get dry on the outside when they bake. The best ones always come from the center.” JANE SIGAL 92

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: con poulos; food styling: simon andrews; style editor: suzie myers

The ooey-gooey goodness continues at foodandwine.com /sticky-buns.

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Â?2017 Stagsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Leap Winery, Napa, CA

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