Workbook

WORKBOOK

ASSESSMENT 2

JEANNIE OCTAVIANI 00158822T

2

TABLE

CONTENTS

WEEK 5

Zara Kidswear Case Studies ............................................................................ 4

WEEK 6

Antonio Berardi for Marcs Full Costing Sheet............................................ 6 Brand Analysis Reflection .............................................................................. 10

WEEK 7

Chloe for Sportsgirl Make Only Sheet .......................................................... 16 Direct / Indirect Costs Exercise .................................................................... 18 Buttonhole Machine Troubleshooter ........................................................... 19

WEEK 8

Tencel Report Case Studies ...........................................................................20 Dolce Gabbana for Zara Full Costing Sheet .................................................24 J.I.T Essay............................................................................................................28 Reference ...........................................................................................................31 3

H I S T O RY Zara is a Spanish clothing and accessories retailer based in Arteixo, Galicia. The company was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega and Rosalía Mera. It is the main brand of the Inditex group, the world’s largest apparel retailer. The fashion group also owns brands such as Massimo Dutti, Pull and Bear, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho, Zara Home, and Uterqüe. Zara as of 2017 manages up to 20 clothing collections a year.

BUSINESS MODEL Zara is committed to fulfil the desire of customers to provide new designs made from high quality materials that are affordable.

Zara aim to contribute sustainable development of society and environment around through a cycle of MIS (Management Information System), Marketing, Production, and Design.

Production and Distribution main businesses including maintaining quality, cost leadership, offering varieties products, and fast distribution system. Design main businesses including ability to produce new products in short time, coordinating with Research and Development stores to adapt new trends, reviewing customer feedbacks and response. MIS main businesses including product distribution system, improving inventory system, and stores ordering system. Marketing business model including Research and Development, reviewing market and location of stores, penetrating market, and analyzing consumer behavior.

With four to five weeks on the process of designing a new product to be ready on the store floor, Zara produces approximately 11.000 different products per year while its major rivals only produce 2.000 to 4.000 items. Making Zara one of the leading brand in fast fashion retail category.

4

KIDSWEAR REPORT

R AN G E & C AT E G O R I E S Zara Kids price are ranging from AUD 13 - AUD 65. These prices are ranging

ZARAKIDS Just after expanding their brand to Zara Home, the company expanded to Zara Kids. Zara produces unique and sophisticated range for children. Zara Kids provides great place to shop and feel secure in finding fun, unique, great quality clothes that set lifestyle for children to be tomorrow’s fashionistas.

from Girl & Boy 5-14 years old, Baby Girl & Baby Boy 3mo - 4 years, and Newbown 0-12 Months. These include Outerwear, Dresses & Jumpsuits, Tops, Bottoms, Shoes, Accessories, Bags, Shoes, Underwear and Pyjamas.

M AR K E T D E M AN D S Following their first brand Zara success, Zara Kids demand were going strong.

Market demands the brand to deliver high quality merchandise in short time from the runway to their wardrobe. Zara delivers same trend for adult adaptated to suit Kidswear. Customer asks for the same quality and trend they get from the adult section to dress their kids in reasonable price point. Market demands Zara Kids to expand their brand to 1.923 stores in 88 countries as per 2015.

B U S I N E S S AN ALY S I S With a lot of products offered by Zara, to reduce time and cost, Zara choose to handle design, production, and distribution in-house and put the whole production close to their headquarters in Spain to ensure the production is under their control. Through the entire process, Zara can react much faster towards new trends that its competitor, it is directly related to their ability of understanding their customer’s desires and their successful innovation strategies.

CONCLUSION Providing a lot of products in different categories in such a short time frame are their key success factors. More style means more choice and more chance hitting on the customers. By opening a massive number of stores around the world, making Zara visible to customer and putting them as number one fast fashion retail business.

5

COSTING SHEET DATE : DESCRIPTION : CUSTOMER : COMMENTS :

13/07/2017 Inverted Dart Blouse Marcs

TOTAL RAW COST WHOLESALE RRP

STYLE # DEPARTMENT : SEASON : BLOCK # : PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

$26.30 $52.60 $115.72

AM13072017 Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017 AM13072017 Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

FABRIC FABRIC SELF CONTRAST 1 CONTRAST 2 LINING FUSING

CODE SE01

DESCRIPTION 100% Cotton Poplin

FUS01

Collar Band, Collar, Cuff TOTAL

CODE TR01

DESCRIPTION Grey Plastic Button

YIELD / M 2.30

WIDTH (M) 1.50

1.00

$ PER METER $4.50

$0.50

COST $10.35 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.50 $10.85

ACCESSORIES ACCESSORIES BUTTON ZIPPER 1 ZIPPER 2 BLOCK/PC FUSING COST ELASTIC

SWATCH

SWATCH

FRONT SKETCH QTY 12.00

SIZE / WIDTH 5mm

$ / UNIT $0.05

SUBTOTAL $0.60 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.60

DESCRIPTION

QTY

SIZE / WIDTH

$ / UNIT

Cost to Promote Main Label (Poly Printed Woven)

1.00 1.00

6 x 3 cm

$1.00 $0.30

Polyester Cotton Printed Carton Swing Tag

1.00 1.00

6 x 3 cm 6 x 3 cm

$0.05 $0.50

Steam Only Construction Price Sea Freight From Dock to Store Front TOTAL

1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

SUBTOTAL $0.00 $1.00 $0.30 $0.00 $0.05 $0.50 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $1.00 $10.00 $1.00 $1.00 $14.85

TOTAL SUNDRIES SUNDRIES PRINTING ADVERTISING INT. LABELS EXT. LABELS CARE LABELS SWING TAG WASH TYPE ARTWORK AWTA TEST ACCESS / FREIGHT HANGER PRESSING MAKE PRICE AIR / SEA FREIGHT FREIGHT TO STORE

6

CODE

$1.00 $10.00 $1.00 $1.00

FRONT SKETCH

TOTAL RAW COST WHOLESALE RRP

$26.30 $52.60 $115.72

MAKE SPEC

STYLE #

13/07/2017 Inverted Dart Blouse Marcs

DATE : DESCRIPTION : CUSTOMER : COMMENTS :

AM13072017 Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017 AM13072017 Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

DEPARTMENT : SEASON : BLOCK # : PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

FRONT

BACK

Fall of collar pressed nicely with fusing inside and 2mm single needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch at the bottom part

Main label attached in Middle Neck Facing with single needle stitch on both left and right edges. Size Label attached on the right of the Main Label.

Fall of collar pressed nicely with fusing inside and 2mm single needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch at the bottom part

Collar stand has 2mm twin needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch around the inside part of the collar stand.

MARCS

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock

Three folded front placket cutting with 2mm single needle chainstitch, topstitch around the edges near bodice

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock 5mm grey plastic dome button attached every 7cm.

The first one placed at the collar stand.

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock

Waistband cutting has 2mm single needle chainstitch, topstitched, pressed with light weight fusing inside at the top and bottom edge.

FRONT SKETCH

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock

Dart seam has 8cm long.

Three sectioned inverted pleats tucked under the waistband cutting

Waistband cutting has 2mm single needle chainstitch, topstitched, pressed with light weight fusing inside at the top and bottom edge.

BACK SKETCH Care Label attached with single needle stitch on edges in between front and back cutting.

Three sectioned inverted pleats tucked under the waistband cutting

Bottom hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with double needle thread overlock

Bottom hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with double needle thread w overlock

Sleeves Cuff hem edges has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched on top and bottom edges. Cuff has double fabric.

Sleeves Cuff hem edges has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched on top and bottom edges. Cuff has double fabric.

7

TRIM SPEC 13/07/2017 Inverted Dart Blouse

DATE : DESCRIPTION :

Marcs

CUSTOMER :

STYLE #

AM13072017

DEPARTMENT : SEASON :

Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017

BLOCK # :

COMMENTS :

PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

FABRIC

COLORWAYS 1

COLORWAYS 2

2.30 METER

2.30 METER

1 METER

1 METER

SELF

FUSING

BUTTON TYPE : 42 Holes Button COLOR : Grey SIZE : 5mm Diameter POSITION : Hidden in between front placket QUANTITY : 10 + 2 spare

BRAND LABEL TYPE : Woven Polyester Printed COLOR : Black SIZE : 6 x 3cm, 2 x 4cm POSITION : Middle Neck Facing QUANTITY : 1

CARE LABEL TYPE : Polyester Cotton Printed COLOR : White SIZE : 6 x 3cm POSITION : Side Cutting, 30cm from bottom QUANTITY : 1 page

8

AM13072017 Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

COLORWAYS 3

SIZE SPEC 13/07/2017 Inverted Dart Blouse Marcs

DATE : DESCRIPTION : CUSTOMER : COMMENTS :

STYLE #

AM13072017

DEPARTMENT :

Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017 AM13072017

SEASON : BLOCK # : PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

FRONT

BACK

Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

O

I

P

F

H A M D

FRONT SKETCH

BACK SKETCH

B M

E J C

K L

N

G

MEASURING POINT A B C D

DESCRIPTION 1/2 BUST 1/2 WAIST 1/2 HIP TOP SLEEVE LENGTH UNDER SLEEVE LENGTH SHOULDER

8 50.5 39.5 53.5 51

10 53 42 56 51

12 55.5 44.5 58.5 51

14 58 47 61 51

16 60.5 49.5 63.5 51

0 1 0.6 1.2 1.2

32 51 47.4 52.8 38.8

32 52 48 54 40

32 53 48.6 55.2 41.2

32 54 49.2 56.4 42.4

32 55 49.8 57.6 43.6

N

CENTER BACK LENGTH CUFF HEIGHT WAISTBAND HEIGHT PLACKET WIDTH

0.6 0.6 0 0.6 0

60.4 60.4 8 9.4 2

61 61 8 10 2

61.6 61.6 8 10.6 2

62.2 62.2 8 11.2 2

62.8 62.8 8 11.8 2

O

COLLAR HEIGHT

0.6

3.4

4

4.6

5.2

5.8

P

COLLAR FALL BOTTOM OPENING

0.6 2.5

5.9 77.5

6.5 80

7.1 82.5

7.7 85

8.3 87.5

E F G H I J K L M

Q

SLEEVE HEM CIRCUMFERENCE ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE NECK CIRCUMFERENCE CENTER FRONT LENGTH

INCREMENT (cm) 2.5 2.5 2.5 0

TOL +/-

S

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

T

0

0

0

0

R

9

A . B R A N D D E V E L O P M E N T & S T R AT E G I C PLANNING 1.

Market Definition : To get a comprehensive understanding of the market and how consumers perceive the brands in that market. Following are some of the most important points you need to gather market intelligence about: • Which brands have the highest unaided awareness levels?

JETS, Triangl, Zimmermann, Kopper & Zink, Zulu & Zephyr.

BRAND RESEARCH

FUNDAMENTALS

REFLECTIVE STATEMENT This series of brand research gives a critical component of business success. Brand research gives data to make effective decisions according to the purpose and target market. Also it gives a business deep an insight into consumer’s mind to influence their loyalty and needs to the brand.

In the future, I’m planning to build a luxury swimwear brand that is trend forward and durable in usage in an affordable price point which will be sold throughout Southeast Asia & Australia.

10

• What words do consumers associate with other brands in the market?

Luxury, summer, durable, colorful, minimal, and fashionable.

• What do consumers like about those brands?

Experimental, unique, durability, exclusivity.

• What do consumers dislike about those brands?

Easy to get copied, doesn’t fit properly in all types of body.

• What do consumers think is missing from brands on the market today?

Exclusivity, uniqueness, without missing the functionality.

Brand research needs to be done to identify existing label for consumers to determine which brands they like and factors behind that. This is the stage to look for opportunities to differentiate my brand and define brand value proposition.

2.

Audience Segmentation : Target audience must be determined in order to create brand and products that are sellable to certain group of customer. This can be done by segmenting target market into smaller groups of people with similar behaviors to develop specific advertising and branded experiences that appeal to those audience segments and will most successfully raise brand awareness and sales.

• Why do consumers choose one brand over another?

Unique style, durable material, and trend forward design.

• W hy do consumers choose not to buy other brands?

Brand positioning in their circle of friends whether it’s famous between them or not.

• Why do consumers buy frequently or infrequently?

Depends on their needs to get an influence of getting various swimwear – just like daily clothes.

• Why do consumers buy in a specific store?

To get a certain experience : be treated well, get an updated informations.

• How do consumers use the brands they buy?

They proud of what they bought and confidently wear them out.

• When do consumers use the brands they buy?

They use it from regular day out in the beach to a special pool party.

• How do consumers make the decision to make the actual purchase?

Based on the item itself and influence from her circle or store team member about how it looks in their body.

11

B . B R A N D C R E AT I O N 1.

B r a n d Po s i t i o n i n g B r a n d p o s i t i o n i n g i s a s t a t e m e n t a n d p ro m i s e wh i c h a re u s e d t o a p p e a l t o t h e t a r g e t m a rke t a n d p o s i t i o n e d c o r re c t l y t o m e e t t h e i r exe c t a t i o n s a n d f i t s d i v e r s e c u s t o m e r s .

M a k i n g s u re o u r b u s i n e s s a l w a y s i n l i n e w i t h t h e b r a n d p o s i t i o n i n g t o ke e p i t o n t h e t r a c k .

E x a m p le : S H O R E i s a l u x u r y s w i m w e a r b r a n d d e l i v e r i n g h i g h q u a l i t y s w i m w e a r b i k i n i s t o a d i v i n g s u i t s a n d o v e r s w i m s . S H O R E b re a t h e s m o d e r n i s m a n d t h e l a t e s t f a s h i o n t re n d .

S H O R E m a k i n g s u re t h e q u a l i t y a n d t e c h n olo gy c o m b i n e s i n e a c h o f t h e i r p ro d u c t s .

2.

B r a n d Id e n t i t y A g o o d b r a n d m u s t h a v e t h e r i g h t t a n g i ble e le m e n t s s u c h a s b r a n d n a m e , lo g o , c olo r p a le tt e , m e s s a g i n g , a n d o t h e r i m a g e r y t h a t goes in line with the brand positioning.

B r a n d e le m e n t s a re t h e v i s u a l , a u d i t o r y, a n d ol f a c t o r y re p re s e n t a t i o n s o f t h e b r a n d p ro m i s e a n d p e r s o n a . T h ey n e e d t o m a t c h y o u r b r a n d p ro m i s e a n d p e r s o n a a s w e l l a s c o n s u m e r s ’ ex p e c t a t i o n s fo r y o u r b r a n d .

12

C. BRAND PROMOTION 1.

Brand Research and the 4Ps There are four core elements that make up any business’ marketing mix as follows: • Product: Your product is what you’re offering to consumers for a specific price. Swimwear • Price: Your price is the dollar amount (and the perceived emotional currency) that consumers must pay to get your product. AUD 39 – AUD 229 • Place: The place of your marketing mix refers to the distribution process from manufacturing to transportation, retail, resellers, shelf space, and so on.

• Promotion: The promotion part of your marketing mix refers to the marketing tactics that you execute in order to increase awareness, recognition, sales, and loyalty. VIP membership progamme, special The brand must touches all parts of the 4Ps and all elements of the marketing mix.

2.

Promotions Include More Than Ads Promotion a well-known short-term marketing tactics such as sales and discounts as well as the overall promotion aspect of the brand’s marketing mix. Following is a list of common marketing tactics that are part of the brand promotion: Advertising • Direct mail and email marketing • Social media participation and content publishing • Trade shows and events • Publicity • Packaging 13

3.

Brand Research and the 3Ms

Brand promotion research occurs in three phases: preparing the promotion, during the promotion period, and after the promotion ends. By conducting ongoing research, the brand can provide the best promotions to create, when they need tweaking before it’s too late, and how to improve them in the future.

• Media: What media does your audience consume and how does that media differ by audience?

When and where do they access that media?

Fashion magazine, Instagram, Pinterest.

They access is almost every day in their spare time or while having their me time.

• Message: What will your ad say? How will your message address different segments of your audience? Does your message appeal to your target audience based on the media where your promotion will live? What messages does your audience want and need to hear from you through this media? Are your messages believable and do they move consumers to a desired action? SHORE c a m p a i g n w i l l i n d i re c t l y s p e a k i n g a b o u t o u r u n i q u e d e s i g n a n d exc l u s i v i t y.

• Mode: How will your ad deliver your message? Does your audience respond negatively to an online pop-up ad? Is there a specific way that your target audiences like to have marketing messages delivered through the media t h e y c o n s u m e ? Wo u l d a 3 0 - s e c o n d t e l e v i s i o n c o m m e r c i a l b e m o r e e f f e c t i v e o r a half-hour infomercial? Which would be more effective in driving your target audience to action? How does your audience prefer to receive your message?

S H O R E c u s t o m e r i s a t e c h s a v v y, h e n c e t h e r i g h t a d v e r t i s i n g w o u l d b e t h ro u g h social media and social influencer through indirect advertising campaign.

14

D . B R A N D A N A LY S I S 1.

Researching Brand Emotions It is a fundamental truth that when consumers are highly emotionally attached to a brand, their loyalty and advocacy of that brand knows no bounds. You can’t buy that level of brand emotion through clever marketing messages, but you can create it through brand consistency, persistence, and surrounding consumers with branded experiences where they can choose how they want to interact with the brand.

2.

Subjective Brand Research All of the objective brand research data collected is incomplete without tying subjective analysis to it. That’s because consumers don’t always act the way they say they will. Qualitative and quantitative research results about buying propensity and brand preferences can be misleading if they are viewed without subjective context. Following are several tricks to gather subjective data in a more reliable way than objective research questions might provide: • Use word association and sentence completion questions to encourage respondents to provide their own words to describe your brand.

• Ranking, sorting, and grouping questions can be used in a multitude of ways to gain insight into consumer brand preferences.

• Analogies offer an excellent way to learn how consumers feel by asking them to compare the brand to unrelated things. For example, ask respondents, “if the brand were a celebrity, who would it be and why?”

• Storytelling works well to draw out underlying emotions and thoughts about the brand. Ask respondents to tell a story about the brand (it could be based on a real experience or fictitious).

• Role-playing can be used to have consumers act like the brand or try to convince a friend to purchase the brand.

3.

Brand Research Decision-Making Brand research is never done, but it can help the brand to make intelligent decisions rather than assuming what your customers want and need and what the market will bear.

15

MAKE ONLY CHLOE RUFFLE SHIRT F O R S P O RT S G I R L

16

MAKE SPEC 1/08/2017 Tied Ruffle Blouse

DATE : DESCRIPTION :

Sportsgirl

CUSTOMER :

CH010817

DEPARTMENT : SEASON :

Womenswear Spring / Summer 2018 CH010817

BLOCK # :

COMMENTS :

Jeannie Octaviani 6 to 12

PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

FRONT

Main label attached in Middle Neck Collar Facing with single needle stitch on both left and right edges. Size Label attached on the right of the Main Label.

Collar stand has double layer fabric with 2mm twin needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch near neck cutting.

Bow made from the extension of collar. Has double layer fabric with plain seam inside.

STYLE #

BACK Collar stand has double layer fabric with 2mm twin needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch near neck cutting.

SPORTSGIRL

Back yoke has a 2mm twin needle chainstitch flat felled seam topstitch near bodice cutting.

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock

Armhole 12mm plain seam overlock

Neck opening 8cm down from the top edge of the collar.

Finished with bias tape made from the same fabric all around the opening.

Bottom of the bodice hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with the ruffles gathering layer seam.

FRONT SKETCH

BACK SKETCH

Bottom of the sleeves hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with the ruffles gathering layer seam.

Ruffles gathering layer attached with ruffles stitching at 2cm down from the top edge all around the hem of the sleeves.

Bottom of the sleeves hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with the ruffles gathering layer seam.

Care Label attached with single needle stitch on edges in between front and back cutting.

Bottom of the ruffles has smooth baby overlock as a finishing to have a flounce drape look.

Bottom of the bodice hem has 5mm chainstitch, topstitched with the ruffles gathering layer seam.

Ruffles gathering layer attached with ruffles stitching at 2cm down from the top edge all around the hem of

Bottom of the ruffles has smooth baby overlock as a finishing to have a flounce drape look.

17

DIRECT

COST INDIRECT Direct costs are directly attributable to the object. In construction, the costs of materials, labor, equipment, etc., and all directly involved efforts or expenses for the cost object are direct costs. In manufacturing or other non-construction industries the portion of operating costs that is directly assignable to a specific product or process is a direct cost.

Indirect costs are not directly attributable to a cost object.

Indirect costs are typically allocated to a cost object on some basis. In construction, all costs which are required for completion of the installation, but are not directly attributable to the cost object are indirect, such as overhead.

In manufacturing, costs not directly assignable to the end product or process are indirect. These may be costs for management, insurance, taxes, or maintenance, for example.

18

MATERIALS

LABOURS

OTHER

Woolen fabric Sleeve lining Buttons Fabric for a dress Embroidery Digital printing

Cutters wages Machinists wages Fusing service payment Buttonholes wages Stone washing Sewing machine needle Designer wages Hiring models Freight to store

Factory rent Bank free charges Pattern paper card Paper for sketching Computer Stationery cost Photocopy paper

Factors to consider in getting a broken buttonhole machine fixed : • Time needed • Cost of service (replacement parts, service, repair, shipping, installation) • Cost of Disposal • Health and environmental cost • To repair or to replace the machine • Safety Consideration Things to consider : • How long does it take to replace the broken parts up until installation?

• Where does it ship from?

• Can the spare parts ordered immediately?

• Is it gonna work immediately as soon as it gets replaced?

• What shipment used? By air (more expensive but faster, how fast?) or by sea (cheaper but slower, how slow?)

• How long does it take to get installed from the time it’s arrived in the country?

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE

trouble shooter Option 1 : Repairing + Lower cost investment + Easy solution to get it replaced + Reduce maintenance cost + Access to updated new technology - Takes longer time - Safety issues coming from the repairing - The older the machine, the cheaper it gets Option 2 : Outsource If we’re in the middle of a production with a deadline, as a manager, I’d send the rest of production to other company that can do button hole. + Saving the company’s reputation by makin the delivery on time + Don’t have to wait for long time to get the machine fixed - Cost more to outsource - Failure risk due to outsourcing

Option 3 : Overtime If we’re in the middle of a production with a deadline and we still have more machine worked fine, as a manager, I’d send the rest of production to other machine and have the employees working overtime. + Can reduce the cost by not outsourcing + Don’t have to wait for long time to get the machine fixed - Cost more time and salary to pay the employee Future Prevetions : - Perform regular maintenance - Outsource supplier of parts company list - Invest in more than 1 buttonhole machine - Invest in common replaced spareparts - Make sure employees to follow standard operational on the machine 19

REPORT TENCEL® is the brand name owned by Lenzing Fibers of Austria made from a recent improved fabric based in fiber generically called lyocell. TENCEL® is are actually a lyocell while TENCEL® is actually just the brand name for a type of lyocell. According to Michael Kininmonth, a spokesman for Lenzing Fibers, “the blend composition of a fabric must be a minimum of 30% TENCEL® to be able to use the brand name.

been harvested from tree farms. TENCEL® fibre is then spun using amine oxide (MMNO) as the solvent. In the process, amine oxide is heated and is then used to dissolve wood pulp. TENCEL® is then filtered and spun into a bath containing a dilute aqueous solution of solvent. The bath removes the amine oxide from the fibres. The fibres are then washed and dried. The removed solvent is reclaimed for further use. The unique closed loop process makes TENCEL® fibers the fibers of the future since the solvent used is recycled by almost 100% in the closed loop process. This special process received the “European Award for the Environment” from the European Union.

There are two categories of fibers: natural fibers (cotton, wool, hemp, ramie and silk) and artificial fibers (nylon and polyester). TENCEL® is a natural, man-made, biodegradable fiber that categorized somewhere in-between. It is made from cellulose from wood pulp of sustainably grown eucalyptus trees which TENCEL® is produced via are then regenerated to an advanced ‘closed loop’ a cellulose fiber that is solvent spinning process, manufactured using an with minimal impact on extremely efficient closed-loop system. It is processed using a the environment and economical use of energy and water. TENCEL® non -toxic, organic solvent of which 99% of the materials used are uses an amine oxide as a non-toxic solvent which is continually recovered and reused, making the fiber extremely sustainable. recycled during the production process. Production plant emissions into the air from smokestacks and from wastewater are significantly TENCEL® is made from cellulose found in wood pulp which has lower in comparison to many other man-made fiber operations.

20

As with conventionally manufactured cotton fabric, great moisture absorption and fast moisture release. TENCEL® there are many steps and processes involved in taking absorbs up to 20% water at 90% relative humidity, which is lyocell from fiber to fabric. The major steps are: approximately the same water vapor absorption capacity as wool, yet TENCEL® dries three times faster than pure Merino Wool.

1. Creating a solvent solution from wood pulp 2.

Durable: TENCEL® is a high-tenacity cellulosic ber 2. Spinning lyocell fiber from the solvent solution that is twice as strong as cotton. It is stronger than all 3. Washing lyocell fiber to remove solvents other cellulosic bers, and becomes stronger when wet.

4. Dyeing fiber and producing yarns 3.

Active Cooling: At high physical activity levels or hot and 5. Finishing to produce lyocell fabric humid climates, the human body regulates temperature with the production and evaporation of sweat. The quick moisture While production of lyocell fibers is generally eco-friendly and transfer properties of TENCEL® aid the body in maximum environmentally sustainable, the transformation of lyocell fibers cooling in these conditions, and the bers feel cool to the touch. into fabric and garments can use many or the same harsh, and even 4.

Breathable: The strength of the TENCEL® ber toxic, chemicals and processes used in conventional garments. allows for a loose knit while maintaining durability.

This is because of two properties of lyocell: it doesn’t always ac- This results in an extremely open and breathable fabric. cept dyes well, and it has an inherent tendency to fibrillate or 5.

Anti-Microbial: Like wool, TENCEL® absorbs “pill”. In wet processes the surface of lyocell fibers begins to peel moisture into the very core of the ber. Without moisture away. These hairs on the fiber surface are called fibrils. When con- on the surface of the ber, there is nowhere for bacteria to trolled in the correct way, the fabric is given a “peachskin” surface. grow. While this is true of most cellulosic bers, TENCEL® shows 10 times less bacterial growth than cotton.

TENCEL® fibres performances are categorized as follows : 6.

Neutral Electricity: Even at low humidity, TENCEL® fabric has a surface electricity resistance 3 times higher than 1.

Moisture Management: TENCEL® is hydrophilic with Polyester causing it to carry little to no static electricity.

21

TENCEL® fiber compared to rayon is it has higher tensile strength, both wet and dry. TENCEL® does lose some strength when wet, though not as much as rayon.

The degree of polymerization is great in is about twice that of rayon, but cotton is still four to six times higher—which is why cotton does not lose strength when wet.

Lyocell fiber has a relatively low surface energy, which makes it difficult for dyes to bind to it. Depending upon their ideological leanings, the manufacturing facility might use a variety of chemical processes, enzyme baths, and dye treatments which might, or might not, be eco-friendly. Enzymes are bio-chemicals used to weaken surface hairs on fabrics so they can be removed to prevent excessive 22

pilling. Enzymes do occur in nature and are responsible for the breakdown of leaves and vegetation on the forest floor, for example. This is in keeping with the Lenzing Fibers goal of using low impact chemistry in their fabric manufacturing.

garments manufactured in Europe or the U.S. Sustainable clothing and eco-friendly clothing have great value to the earth but they are not the same as organic clothing.

TENCEL® is a cotton alternative with even better benefits such as softness, strength, The manufacturing of TENCEL® does have and breathability. Compared to cotton, significant environmental and ecological TENCEL® shrank less, wrinkled less, softer, benefits. Most of concern about lyocell stronger and breathed more than most cotton. comes from the sometimes heavy use of chemicals to turn lyocell fiber into TENCEL® fibre is a little bit more garments. TENCEL® and lyocell are expensive because it costs more to produce possibly not appropriate for those with which transfers to shoppers, leading to Multiple Chemical Sensitivities. People TENCEL® perception as a luxury fibre. that may have chemical sensitivities that TENCEL® can carry as much as a 50are interested in purchasing apparel to-100% premium over Egyptian cotton, made from TENCEL® and lyocell is to one of the most pricey levels of cotton. proceed carefully and to shop for lyocell

Based on my research, customer who bought 100% TENCEL® based product were happy with their purchase. It is silky and more airy than a normal cotton. Also, users won’t have to wash it as often to have it looked good.

TENCEL® are built using sateen weave.

This type of construction creates a soft, smooth, cool and luxurious feel. TENCEL® review are good for customer who wants a soft comfortable fabric for an affordable

price

with

eco-friendly

process. world with different type of skin and weather. TENCEL® can be sourced as one TENCEL® has been used for various of sustainable fabric to use in the future. garment at Target and ASOS, to more luxury brand like Opening Ceremony and TENCEL® price is not considered as high Yves Saint Laurent, and Australia leading anymore especially when it’s bought bedding brand Adairs and Sheridan. in bulk to use for major retailers. This can change costing of our products to To replace cotton, TENCEL® may need be more expensive, but if it’s followed few more years of research to improve with improvement in quality, I believe their fibre ready to use for a lot more customer wouldn’t mind paying more for range of customers from around the a more luxurious fabric image and quality.

23

COSTING SHEET DATE : DESCRIPTION : CUSTOMER : COMMENTS :

31/07/2017 Ruffle Peasant Dress Zara

TOTAL RAW COST WHOLESALE RRP

$30.13 $60.26 $132.57

STYLE #

ZA31072017

DEPARTMENT : SEASON : BLOCK # : PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017 ZA31072017 Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

FABRIC FABRIC SELF CONTRAST 1 CONTRAST 2 LINING FUSING

CODE SE01

DESCRIPTION 100% Tencel

YIELD / M 3.20

WIDTH (M) 1.50

$ PER METER $4.00

LI01

100% Polyester

2.00

1.20

$1.20

TOTAL

COST $12.80 $0.00 $0.00 $2.40 $0.00 $15.20

ACCESSORIES

SWATCH

SWATCH

FRONT SKETCH

ACCESSORIES BUTTON ZIPPER 1 ZIPPER 2 BLOCK/PC FUSING COST ELASTIC

CODE

DESCRIPTION

TR01

Elastic Thread TOTAL

SUNDRIES PRINTING ADVERTISING INT. LABELS EXT. LABELS CARE LABELS SWING TAG WASH TYPE ARTWORK AWTA TEST ACCESS / FREIGHT HANGER PRESSING MAKE PRICE AIR / SEA FREIGHT FREIGHT TO STORE

CODE

DESCRIPTION

QTY

Cost to Promote Main Label (Poly Printed Woven)

1.00 1.00

6 x 3 cm

$1.00 $0.30

Polyester Cotton Printed Carton Swing Tag

1.00 1.00

6 x 3 cm 6 x 3 cm

$0.05 $0.50

Steam Only Construction Price Sea Freight From Dock to Store Front TOTAL

1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

QTY

SIZE / WIDTH

$ / UNIT

1.00

6mm

$0.08

SIZE / WIDTH

$ / UNIT

SUBTOTAL $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.08 $0.08

SUNDRIES

24

$1.00 $10.00 $1.00 $1.00

SUBTOTAL $0.00 $1.00 $0.30 $0.00 $0.05 $0.50 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $1.00 $10.00 $1.00 $1.00 $14.85

FRONT SKETCH

TOTAL RAW COST WHOLESALE RRP

$30.13 $60.26 $132.57

MAKE SPEC 31/07/2017 Ruffle Peasant Dress Zara

DATE : DESCRIPTION : CUSTOMER : COMMENTS :

FRONT

Shoulder strap has double fabric with plain seam turn around inside and pressed

Main label attached in middle back lining with single needle stitch on both left and right edges.

Ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part has no lining inside.

ZARA

STYLE #

ZA31072017

DEPARTMENT : SEASON : BLOCK # : PATTERN MAKER : SIZE RANGE :

Womenswear Spring / Summer 2017 ZA31072017 Jeannie Octaviani 8 - 16

BACK

Ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part has no lining inside.

Shoulder strap has double fabric with plain seam turn around inside and pressed

Ruffles gathering done by stitching 6mm elastic rubber to the fabric. Start from the gathering, lining stitched to the outer fabric part.

Ruffles gathering done by stitching 6mm elastic rubber to the fabric. Start from the gathering, lining stitched to the outer fabric part.

Armhole inside finished with 12mm plain seam overlock Armhole inside finished with 12mm plain seam overlock

Ruffles sleeves hem gathering done by stitching 6mm elastic rubber to the fabric. Lining ends at the bottom of the gathering by stitching the lining to the outer fabric.

Ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part part has no lining inside.

Layered ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part has no lining inside. Ruffles gathering done by stitching 6mm

Bottom hem lined with plain seam turn around inside and pressed, leaving 3cm excess at the bottom of the hem

BACK SKETCH

FRONT SKETCH

Care Label attached with single needle stitch on edges in between front and back lining cutting.

Ruffles sleeves hem gathering done by stitching 6mm elastic rubber to the fabric. Lining ends at the bottom of the gathering by stitching the lining to the outer fabric.

Ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part part has no lining inside.

Layered ruffles finished with baby overlock chainstitch. Ruffles part has no lining inside. Ruffles gathering done by stitching 6mm

Bottom hem lined with plain seam turn around inside and pressed, leaving 3cm excess at the bottom of the hem

25

26

SIZE SPEC 31/07/2017

DATE : DESCRIPTION :

Ruffle Peasant Dress Zara

CUSTOMER :

STYLE #

ZA31072017

DEPARTMENT : SEASON :

Spring / Summer 2017

Womenswear ZA31072017 Jeannie Octaviani

BLOCK # :

COMMENTS :

PATTERN MAKER :

8 - 16

SIZE RANGE :

F

FRONT

BACK

A

B

D

E

G

FRONT SKETCH

C

BACK SKETCH I

H

Q

DESCRIPTION

MEASURING POINT

8

10

12

14

16

A

1/2 BUST

INCREMENT (cm) 2.5

TOL +/-

42.5

45

47.5

50

52.5

B

1/2 WAIST

2.5

35.5

38

40.5

43

45.5

C D

2.5 0

43.5 30

46 30

48.5 30

51 30

53.5 30

E

1/2 HIP TOP SLEEVE LENGTH UNDER SLEEVE LENGTH

0

24

24

24

24

24

F

SHOULDER STRAP WIDTH

1

6

7

8

9

10

G

0.6

29.4

30

30.6

31.2

31.8

H

SLEEVE HEM CIRCUMFERENCE CENTER FRONT LENGTH

0.6

97.4

98

98.6

99.2

99.8

I

CENTER BACK LENGTH

Q

BOTTOM OPENING

0.6 2.5

97.4 77.5

98 80

98.6 82.5

99.2 85

99.8 87.5

R

190

190

190

190

190

S

0

0

0

0

T

0

0

0

0

27

When first developed in Japan in the 1970s, the idea of just­ i n­ t ime ( JIT) marked a radical new approach to the manufacturing process. It cut waste by supplying parts only as and when the process required them.

and an integrated system for production management that evolved slowly through a trial­a nd­e rror process over a span of more than 15 years. There was no masterplan or blueprint for JIT. `Just-in-time’ is a management philosophy and not a technique.

Background & History JIT is a Japanese management philosophy which has been applied in practice since the early 1970s in many Japanese manufacturing organizations. It was developed and perfected within the Toyota manufacturing plants by Taiichi Ohno as a means of meeting consumer demands with minimum delays . Taiichi Ohno is frequently referred to as the father of JIT. Toyota was able to meet the increasing challenges for survival through an approach At the heart of JIT lies the kanban, the that focused on people, plants and Japanese word for card. In this context systems. Toyota realised that JIT it refers to the card that is sent to would only be successful if every reorder a standard quantity of parts individual within the organisation as and when they have been used up was involved and committed to in the manufacturing process. Before JIT, batches of, say, X + it, if the plant and processes were arranged for maximum Y parts would be ordered at a time, and the kanban would be output and efficiency, and if quality and production sent for a replacement order when only Y parts were left. Y was programs were scheduled to meet demands exactly. precisely the quantity needed to carry on until the new parts arrived. With JIT only Y parts were ordered, and the kanban was During Japan’s post-World War II rebuilding of industry: sent off as soon as the new order arrived. It thus eliminated, in effect, the need to hold X parts in permanent storage. • Japan’s lack of cash made it difficult for industry to finance the big-batch, large inventory production methods Over the years, JIT gathered around it the trappings of an almost common elsewhere. mystical philosophy. In their book “Operations Management”, • Japan lacked space to build big factories loaded with Roberta Russell and Bernard Taylor described how it evolved: inventory.

If you produce only what you need when you need it, then • The Japanese islands were (and are) lacking in natural there is no room for error. For JIT to work, many fundamental resources with which to build products. elements must be in place—steady production, flexible • Japan had high unemployment, which meant that labor resources, extremely high quality, no machine breakdowns, efficiency methods were not an obvious pathway to maintain the other elements. Just­i n­t ime is both a philosophy industrial success.

JIT eliminated the need for each stage in the production process to hold buffer stocks, which resulted in huge savings.

JIT has other advantages too. It involves the workforce much more directly in controlling their own inventory needs, and it allows a variety of models to be produced on the same assembly line simultaneously. Before its introduction, assembly lines had been able to cope with only one model at a time. To produce another model required closure of the line and expensive retooling.

JUST-IN TIME

MANUFACTURING

28

Thus the Japanese “leaned out” their processes. “They built smaller factories ... in which the only materials housed in the factory were those on which work was currently being done.

In this way, inventory levels were kept low, investment in inprocess inventories was at a minimum, and the investment in purchased natural resources was quickly turned around so that additional materials were purchased.” Plenart goes on to explain Toyota’s key role in developing this lean or JIT production methodology.

These benefits manifest themselves in employee loyalty, low turnover costs and fulfilment of company goals. It originally referred to the production of goods to meet customer demand exactly, in time, quality and quantity, whether the `customer’ is the final purchaser of the product or another process further along the production line.

It has now come to mean producing with minimum waste.

“Waste” is taken in its most general sense and includes time JIT manufacturing has the capacity, when properly adapted and resources as well as materials. to the organization, to strengthen the organization’s competitiveness in the Methodology marketplace substantially by reducing Housekeeping – physical organization wastes and improving product quality and discipline. Make it right the first time and efficiency of production.

– elimination of defects. Setup reduction – flexible changeover approaches. Lot There are strong cultural aspects sizes of one – the ultimate lot size and associated with the emergence of JIT in flexibility. Uniform plant load – leveling Japan. The Japanese work ethic involves as a control mechanism. Balanced flow – the following concepts. organizing flow scheduling throughput.

• Workers are highly motivated to seek Skill diversification – multi-functional constant improvement upon that workers. which already exists. Although high standards are currently being met, Control by visibility – communication there exist even higher standards to media for activity.

Preventive achieve. Companies focus on group e ort which involves maintenance – flawless running, no defects. Fitness for the combining of talents and sharing knowledge, problem- use – producibility, design for process. Compact plant solving skills, ideas and the achievement of a common layout – product-oriented design. Streamlining movements goal.

– smoothing materials handling. Supplier networks – • Work itself takes precedence over leisure. It is not unusual extensions of the factory. for a Japanese employee to work 14-hour days. Employees tend to remain with one company throughout the course Worker involvement – small group improvement activities. of their career span. This allows the opportunity for them Cellular manufacturing – production methods for flow. Pull to hone their skills and abilities at a constant rate while system – signal [kanban] replenishment/resupply systems. ordering numerous benefits to the company.

29

Elements of JIT include: 1. Continuous improvement.

• Attacking fundamental problems - anything that does not add value to the product • Devising systems to identify problems • Striving for simplicity - simpler systems may be easier to understand, easier to manage and less likely to go wrong • A product oriented layout - produces less time spent moving of materials and parts • Quality control at source - each worker is responsible for the quality of their own output • Poka-yoke - `foolproof ’ tools, methods, jigs etc. prevent mistakes • Preventative maintenance, Total productive maintenance ensuring machinery and equipment functions perfectly when it is required, and continually improving it.

2. Eliminating waste. There are seven types of waste to eliminate: • Waste from overproduction • Waste of waiting time • Transportation waste • Processing waste • Inventory waste • Waste of motion • Waste from product defects 3. Good housekeeping - workplace cleanliness and organization 4. Set-up time reduction - increases flexibility and allows smaller batches. Ideal batch size is 1item. Multi-process handling - a multi-skilled workforce has greater productivity, flexibility and job satisfaction 30

5. Levelled / mixed production - to smooth the ow of products through the factory 6. Kanbans - simple tools to `pull’ products and components through the process 7. Jidoka (Autonomation) - providing machines with the autonomous capability to use judgement, so workers can do more useful things than standing watching them work 8. Andon (trouble lights) - to signal problems to initiate corrective action.

Just in Time Manufacturing ( JIT) - also known as “lean manufacturing” refers to a system of manufacturing in which products are not built until the product is ordered and paid for. Some companies that have successfully implemented JIT include Toyota, Dell and Harley Davidson.

JIT’s main philosophy is to eliminate waste - wasted inventory, wasted stock and wasted time. By creating and delivering products quickly when consumers request them excess inventory is eliminated, customers receive their orders quicker and the manufacturer doesn’t need to keep a large inventory of stock parts.

Although the history of JIT traces back to Henry Ford who applied Just in Time principles to manage inventory in the Ford Automobile Company during the early part of the 20th Century, the origins of the JIT as a management strategy traces to Taiichi Onho of the Toyota Manufacturing Company.

He developed Just in Time strategy as a means of competitive advantage during the post-World War II period in Japan.

Toyota Toyota is considered by many to be the poster child for JIT success. The Toyota production strategy is highlighted by the fact that raw materials are not brought to the production floor until an order is received and this product is ready to be built. No parts are allowed at a node unless they are required for the next node, or they are part of an assembly for the next node. This philosophy has allowed Toyota to keep a minimum amount of inventory which means lower costs.

This also means that Toyota can adapt quickly to changes in demand without having to worry about disposing of expensive inventory.

Autonomation The origin of kanban effected precise specifications of item quantities, leaving no room for defects. The success of this initiative therefore depends on no defective components entering the assembly line. To ensure this, Toyota introduced autonomation, or automating the production system and reducing human intervention only on detection of defects.

The system detects defect automatically and will not proceed until human intervention fix the problem.

The implementation of autonomation meant stoppage of the entire production line, and in the first week, line stops occurred almost hourly. It took six months for line stops to fall to few-a-week and have no economic impact.

The implementation of JIT met with remarkable success at Toyota. The sale of in-process inventory generated surplus cash, response time fell to about a day, product quality increased improving customer satisfaction, and vehicles built to order eliminating the risk of vehicles remaining unsold, improving the company’s return on equity.

Important Factors to Toyota Success Small amounts of raw material inventory must be kept at each node in production, so that production can take place for any product. These parts are then replenished when they are used. Accuracy of forecasting is important so the correct amount of raw materials can be stocked.

Challenges Faced and Results The major challenges faced by Toyota in implementing JIT included multi-skilling the workforce to operate multiple machines based on work-flow patterns and redesigning every part of the vehicle to eliminate or widen tolerance since assembly lines did not have a choice of which parts to use and every part had to fit perfectly.Testing and training suppliers of parts to assure quality and delivery in time on demand.

31

advantages

disadvantages

DEVELOPMENT

Just - in- time inven t o ry c o n t rol has s ever al ad vantages over t ra ditio n a l m odel s. Pro duc t i o n runs remain s h or t, wh ich m ea n s ma n u f ac t urers c an move from one typ e of p rod u ct t o a n o th e r ve ry easi l y. Thi s me thod red u ces cos ts by eliminating warehouse storage needs. Companies also spend less m o n ey o n raw mat eri al s bec au s e th ey b u y ju s t enou gh t o m a ke th e p ro duc t s an d n o mo re. The d is ad vantages of just - in- time inven t o ri es i nvol ve dis r u p tions in th e s u p p ly ch a i n . I f a s u p pl i er o f raw mat eri als h as a breakd own and ca nn o t d e l ive r t he go o ds o n t i me, one s u p p lier can s hu t down th e e n tire pro duc t i o n pro c e s s . A s u d d en ord er for good s th a t s u r passes expec t at i o n s may d elay d eliver y of fi ni s h e d p ro d u c t s t o c l i en t s.

The system was soon being widely copied, both inside and outside Japan. There was some initial skepticism in the United States, however, until companies like HewlettPackard (where it became known as “stockless production”) began to demonstrate that the system could be transplanted successfully into other cultures. One study found that American firms that introduced JIT gained over the following five years (on average) a 70% reduction in inventory, a 50% reduction in labour costs and an 80% reduction in space requirements.

It b e c o me s n e c essary t o fi n d supplier s that are clos e by or ca n s u p p l y mat eri al s qui c kl y wi t h limited ad vance notice.

Wh en o rd e r in g smal l quan t i t i es of mater ials , s u p p lier s ’ m i ni m u m o rd er pol i c i es may po se a p roblem.

Em p loye e s a re at ri sk o f prec ari o u s work when emp loyed by f a c to r ie s t hat ut i l i z e just -in-time and f lexible pro d u c tio n te c hn i ques. A lo n gitu d inal s tu d y of US wo rke r s s in c e 1970 i n di c at es employer s s eeking to eas ily a djus t th e ir work fo rc e i n respo n se to s u p p ly and d emand cond itio n s re s po n d by c reat i n g more nons tand ard work a rra n g e me n ts , suc h as c o n t rac t i n g and temp or ar y work.

30

FUTURE

WEEK 7 ChloĂŠ Pussy Bow Ruffled Printed Georgette Blouse

reference

https://www.net-a-porter.com/ us/en/product/891308/see_ by_chloe/pussy-bow-ruffledprinted-georgette-blouse

WEEK 8 Dolce & Gabbana Hydrangea Printed Off-theShoulder Dress http://www.neimanmarcus.com/ Dolce-Gabbana-HydrangeaPrinted-Off-the-ShoulderDress-Green/prod198210298/p. prod

WEEK 6 Antonio Berarti Pleated Cotton-Blend Shirt https://www.net-a-porter.com/au/ en/product/939640/antonio_berardi/pleated-cotton-blend-shirt

31