The Jeju Weekly Issue84

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Publisher : Song Jung Hee Editor : Darren Southcott Designer : Yun Seong Un Address : Rm. 306 Jeju Venture Maru Bldg. 217 Jungang-ro, Jeju City, Korea Phone : +82-64-724-7776, 702-8885 / Fax : +82-64-724-7796 For advertizing or further inquiries please contact: editor@jejuweekly.com

Vol. IV No. 84

March 2013

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Winner O Muel “shares the glory� with Jeju By Darren Southcott HGLWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP

Jeju-born director O Muel’s latest release “Jiseul,� a moving monochrome portrayal of the Jeju Massacre, has scooped the prestigious Grand Jury Prize at the Sundance Film Festival, in Salt Lake City, Utah. Jiseul, meaning potato in the Jeju dialect, is set during the Jeju Massacre, a period of conflict between state paramilitary and

local armed groups, also known as “4.3� (sa-sam), after events triggered on April 3, 1948. Between 15,000 and 60,000 islanders were killed. In a recent interview with The Weekly, director O said he was committed to telling the truth about Jeju life and the awardwinning Jiseul brings Jeju’s tragic past to an international audience for the first time. In those dark days, sandwiched between liberation from Japan and civil war, Jeju locals, many opposing the division of the Korean peninsula and UNsponsored elections, were labelled “reds,� or communists, by the government of Rhee Syngman; paramilitary groups were sent to eliminate the perceived threat with tacit US support, leaving lingering resentment on the island. The upland “jungsangan,�

Gangjeong simulation results endorsed by governor, dismissed by protesters By The Jeju Weekly HGLWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP

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between 200-600 meters above sea level, was declared enemy territory, and a scorched earth policy ensued, forcing many frightened locals to hide in the valleys and oreum of Mt. Halla. Written and directed by O, the film centers on the inhabitants of one such village who flee to a cave Continued on page 4

The results of the long-awaited simulation tests for the feasibility of the naval base at Gangjeong Village were released on Jan. 31, giving the green light to further construction. Pro-base advocates now hope the construction plans, which are 15 months behind schedule, can continue unobstructed; protestors, however, have vowed to continue their opposition. The results indicate the proposed joint navy base and cruise port at Gangjeong Village can simultaneously accommodate two 15 thousand ton cruise liners with no safety concerns, even in extreme weather conditions. Specialists conducted a computer simulation at the Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, in Daejeon City, on Jan. 17 and 18. Researchers said Continued on page 2

02 Jeju now

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

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By Darren Southcott HGLWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP

www.jejuweekly.com

Seogwipo expat Heloise Stankard received a 100 thousand won fine for failing to abide by a little-known rule requiring movers to notify authorities within 14 days of moving.

“I went to the Immigration Office to receive my new Alien Registration Card and I asked to change my address,� Stankard said. “I was told I should have done this within 14 days and was asked to return with my housing contract. Upon returning with the contract, Stankard was taken upstairs to an investigation office, where: “The

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investigations officer was speaking at me in rapid Korean. Even though I speak decent Korean, I had trouble dealing with all the complex terminology.� Stankard was then handed “a thick wodge of paper in a folder� - the Jeju immigration policy. “The room was full of men who spoke no English and it was hard to follow what I was being told,� she added. Stankard was informed that she failed to follow the proper procedure and would have to pay a fine. “I think it was really unfair because I voluntarily informed them and it had only been two months. Maybe if I had kicked up a fuss I could have got off the hook,� she said. “I was instead told to go straight to an ATM and return with the money.� Poor communication with non-Korean speakers at the Immigration Office has long attracted the criticism of the international community on Jeju and Stankard also feels this is a weakness. “As an immigration office, I am always surprised at the low level of English there. The people downstairs do sometimes have passable English, but for important issues like this there really should be better communication,� she said. Learning that other expats had also been hit with the unexpected fine only added to Stankard’s discontent. “The stupid thing was when I went to speak to the investigations officer he said, “this happens so much with foreigners.� I thought, if this happens so much why aren’t they doing anything about it?� The Immigration Office confirmed that E2-visa holders are required to keep the authorities informed of their current

Continued from page 1 they had never before tested comparable vessels under such extreme conditions. Scientists simulated two 15 thousand ton cruise liners entering and exiting the port in 27 knot winds, while one is moored at the south breakwater, and another enters at the west breakwater. The tests were carried out in secret and critics have challenged their credibility and independence. Jeju Governor Woo Geun-min fully endorsed the results and supported dual military-civilian use of the base. In a special press conference called on Feb. 4 Woo stated: "Once the crucial issue of the controversy has been settled, we must gather energy to materialize our vision for the naval base.� Woo, however, sought to offset criticism from the antibase movement by pledging to develop civilian uses of the port and campaign for pardons for protesters arrested in connection with the protest movement. Protesters at Save Jeju Now called these pledges “sugar-coated words,� claiming: “It is a great deception and betrayal again for the central and island governments to lie to the people.� Pointing to technical errors they claim invalidate the tests, the protesters vowed to continue the fight on behalf of the Gangjeong villagers with renewed vigor. Polls show that members of the provincial assembly are still deeply divided over the simulation results: 34 percent believe the right decision was reached; 34 percent believe the decision was wrong; while 29 percent believe it was an inevitability. Despite the results being hailed triumphantly by probase advocates, the dispute is set to continue in the months ahead.

address and movers should immediately notify either the Immigration Office, or Jeju or Seogwipo City Hall. Stankard said: “I had no idea I could just do it in my local City Hall. More information needs to be available to the international community.� An officer at Jeju Immigration Office said: “All of the basic information is given to foreigners when they receive their registration card. All of the laws related to foreigners can also be found online, in Korean.� Despite the continued aspirations of Jeju as an international city, the lack of English language information and poor communication highlighted the chasm between rhetoric and reality. The officer continued: “English is not an official language in Korea [and] due to our tight schedules it’s difficult to explain to foreigners about the law.� Despite this law also applying to Korean residents, The Jeju Weekly was unable to find any Korean citizens who had been similarly fined. International Jeju residents should take both their housing contract and Alien Registration Card with them to register their new address at one of the following locations: Immigration Office:

673-8, Geonip-dong, Jeju City. Tel: 064-722-3494

Jeju City Hall:

10 Gwangyang 9-gil, Ido 2-dong, Jeju City. Tel: 064-120

Seogwipo City Hall:

105 Jungang-ro, Seohong-dong, Seogwipo City. Tel: 064-120

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The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

Jeju Now 03

“Tamna Cultural Square” to gentrify gateway to Jeju City By The Jeju Weekly HGLWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP

One of the most neglected areas of Jeju City is slated to undergo a major redevelopment in the coming months. The Sanjicheon area of Tapdong has long been eyed by developers wanting to take advantage of its riverside location and plans are being set out to give the area a major facelift. Jeju Special Self-Governing Province is pushing for the landmark "Tamna Cultural Square" development to attract foreign and domestic tourists, and to cater to increasing numbers of cruise passengers coming through nearby Jeju City port. A feasibility study was carried out in 2011 and an architectural design competition was held. The result is a 12.2 billion won project, slated for completion by 2015, which includes the ecological restoration of Sanjicheon and the creation of a pedestrian-only entertainment and shopping area. The project will begin in July of this year. A total of 23 billion won is needed to compensate property owners in the area, yet currently only 8.5 billion won is available. An additional 14.5 billion won in funding is therefore needed. The scale and nature of the Tamna Cultural Square is controversial as the provincial assembly is pushing for a landmark development to gentrify the area, while the provincial government maintains that redevelopment could take different forms. Critics are also urging caution, stressing that it cannot be assumed that international restaurants, theme cafes and other businesses will naturally be drawn to the area. There are also concerns about potential negative effects on the established community in this historic area. Despite recent regeneration efforts, such as that of the Sanjicheon (river) itself, the area remains beset by decaying infrastructure and thinning trade. The debate is set to rumble on over a development that could redefine an area of the city has suffered economic decline.

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“They didn’t communicate at all with the community” www.jejuweekly.com

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Plans to redevelop the Sanjicheon area of Jeju City have not been positively received in all quarters. Local guesthouse manager Hyeon Jong-hyeon is sweating over losing 50 million won in refurbishment costs if he is forced out by gentrifiers. “Tamna Cultural Square,” to begin later this year, is slated for completion by 2015 at a cost of 12.2 billion won, with a further 23 billion set aside for compensation to businesses and property owners affected by the development. Tenant Hyeon feels it will not adequately cover his effort in time and capital. “I thought it would only take a small investment to improve the interior, but I have invested around 50 million won, which includes my own personal time and effort. I have had to borrow money from friends,” said Hyeon. Hyeon runs the “Game Guesthouse” in Geonip-dong, leasing the property. After moving in last July, to draw increasing numbers of young travellers he invested heavily in remodelling the interior; the fresh wooden doors and benches are

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testament to the carpentry work. Much of Geonip-dong, despite being a stone’s throw from upmarket hotels such as the Ramada, has long suffered from the southward shift in economic activity away from the Tapdong area. The area’s reputation for shady business establishments only lends urgency to the redevelopment plans, particularly with its proximity to the international port and increasing numbers of cruise passengers passing through its narrow streets. Behind Imhang-ro’s hotels and coffee shops are crumbling stone-walled houses, punctuated by small motels and derelict-looking blocks; most activity

comes from the slinking alley cats, or the blinking neon of rarely frequented singing rooms. Hyeon thought the investment made sound business sense, despite rumors of redevelopment. He stresses that at no point was there consultation from government officials to confirm these. “I started my business last July and at that time there were no plans to redevelop the area. There were rumours, but we received no contact. Then, suddenly, the government moved the plans forward - it was a shock,” Hyeon said. Hyeon feels that communication has been poor from city officials; he claims local residents and business have been kept in the dark about the extent of the redevelopment area. “A local officer told me that the development would not include my property. But then they changed, saying that the development will include the guesthouse - even the owner of the building didn’t know that. He had no idea if it would be included or not,” said Hyeon. “In my opinion, this village needs redevelopment, as the atmosphere is

really bad. I agree that something needs to be done, but it needs to be done in a different way. There has been no consultation. There should be a more democratic way,” said Hyeon. While the money may come as a blessing to some locals, Hyeon feels his investment should be properly compensated. “Some people might see this as a windfall, as the compensation seems good, but it is not sufficient for the investment I have sacrificed,” Hyeon said. This is not only a financial issue, as Hyeon also urges government officials to improve communication with locals and understand the community’s concerns. “Older people will be scared of having to move to a new place. It would be ideal if they could not only give money, but give continued help to resettle in a new area. People are tired of this,” Hyeon said. “They didn’t communicate at all with the community.” As the gentrification plans move forward, Hyeon’s example shows that development always comes at a cost. How well the provincial government can manage these costs remains to be seen.

04 Exhibition Continued from page 1 to escape the roving military. Potatoes from local fields provide their main food source and the film captures their grim tale in harrowing detail. Regarding the title, O told the Chosun Ilbo: “Potatoes are considered a staple food in many countries, often symbolizing survival and hope. That’s why I picked it as the title of my film.� O accepted his award in absentia having returned to Korea a day before the ceremony - telling the Sundance festival website: “I would love to share the honor with the people of Jeju Island. I want to share this glory.� The Sundance Film Festival, held by the Sundance Institute in Salt Lake City, Utah, is one of the most prestigious independent film festivals in the world. Began in 1981, it is considered the premier platform to showcase new independent films. Fast becoming something of a hero for Jeju people, O is one of few filmmakers covering Jeju’s history and culture. Graduating from Jeju National Uni-

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

versity, he majored in painting and worked with the local arts community on the island before turning to film. He says his characters use Jeju dialect not to be “exotic,� but because “it is a matter of course for Jeju people.� Reviews have been mixed of O’s latest work, with Craig McGeady, from “Word from the R.O.K.� website, judging the film to be: “powerful and tender, at times hard to watch because of the content and at times extremely engaging.� Justin Lowe, of The Hollywood Reporter, reviewed the film as: “Oblique, austere and remote,� but cautions its inaccessibility leaves “little potential beyond dedicated enthusiasts.� O, it seems, captured more than one side of Jeju’s elusive character in Jiseul. Jiseul premiers in Jeju City on March 1 before being released nationwide. The Facebook group “Jiseul: A screening with English subtitles� is pressing for an English-subtitled screening in Jeju City. Join the group to receive further information.

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Art with a Korean essence

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By Lee Yeo Jun

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The first thought that came to my mind as I entered the gallery was: “are these xylographs?â€? Or, to be more precise: “can these possibly be xylographs?â€? Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art was full of unbelievably intricate woodblock prints, full of color and tenderness. Each print was pure wonder and none of them were alike. The exhibition was divided into three parts: Daybreak, Country and Nature. First, in Daybreak there were works by Kang Seung-hee. I expected to see vivid and strong colors, representing the hope and new beginning of dawn. However, contrary to my clichĂŠd expectations, the prints were black and white. Also, Kang’s daybreak consisted of mostly trees and oreum. The conciseness of Kang’s prints made me realize another aspect of dawn - that of serenity before sunrise. One who has looked out on the horizon while all others are sleeping will know this peculiar calmness: the oddly satisfying loneliness as if you are alone in the universe. Maybe this tranquility is the true character of daybreak. However, this does not mean that

Kang’s prints are static. The trees, though still, whisper ceaselessly to each other, as if awaiting something. The trees in “Daybreak 21228� look as if they have gathered to view the sunrise from over the oreum. In this way the prints are silent, but at the same time endlessly communicate with viewers. The next display theme was “Country,� in which Kim Euk’s work depicted the Korean landscape. Kim’s prints not only portray magnificent scenery, but successfully capture the vitality that underlies it. I could feel the strength of the mountain range and the water relentlessly flowing downward. I was even moved to feel the immense energy

of “Youngsil Valley at Mt.Halla,� as it hung from the ceiling. Nevertheless, Kim’s prints are amazingly elaborate. I could feel the artist’s devotion from the fact that he had not overlooked a single rock, tree or person. It was stunning to contemplate that the work is a woodblock print and it reminds me of renowned J o s e o n - e r a artist Kim Hong Do’s “Songhamenghodo,� in which he drew each and every hair of a ferocious tiger. Similarly, Kim Euk grandiosely symbolizes the Korean spirit, while never disregarding the preciseness that is true Korean painting. The last display was “Nature,� by Kim

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Joon-Kwon, whose work again surprised. Kim portrays nature through brightness and chroma. In “Bamboo-1302,� basic green is used to represent a bamboo forest, while different shades of green and yellow are used to bring the bamboo to life. Interestingly, even with this rather simple use of color, the bamboo forest is not too surreal, but fresh and enjoyable. The work can be appreciated by both examining each individual bamboo stick up close, or by observing the whole forest from a distance. In “Oreum 0420,� Mt.Halla is merely an outline of an oreum. Through this technique, Mt. Halla, rather than standing out, sits behind and is embraced by the the oreum around it. “Mountain image 0910� again shows Kim’s remarkable skills by using only black and modifying its shading to capture the spirit of the mountains of Korea. Finally, seeing “Island,� I felt sure that the artist was skilled in the equilibrium of colors; not too much, but not too little, is what moves the viewer. Despite the unique approaches of the artists, the essence of the prints remain Korean and I hope younger artists remember that essence and identity that will be what makes their work distinct and beautiful. Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art: Day Break, Country, Nature, 2.2~3.19

March 2013

The Jeju Weekly

Global Jeju 05

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By Darren Southcott

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The Foreign Advisory Committee, created last April, is charged with bridging the divide between the international community and Korean officialdom to improve life for Jeju’s international residents. If Jeju really is going to the world, then the semblance of movement is essential. The FAC has three subcommittees: tourism; residence and infrastructure; and adaptation to Jeju society. Through these international residents have the opportunity to participate in the policymaking process and the Jeju governor has agreed to “positively make an effort� to reflect its advice in provincial policy. At the first quarterly Steering Group meeting of the new year, Chairperson Chung Dal-ho recognized the difficulties that are faced. “Globalized Jeju is what the govern-

ment aspires to, but it cannot be done at the level of Hong Kong or Singapore. It cannot be attained overnight,� said Chung. The FAC recently visited the Seoul global center and Yeonnam global village center to learn about how other authorities have worked with migrants and international families. Committee members are adapting these programs to Jeju’s particular needs. In December, the FAC held the “For a Better Life in Jeju� workshop and the major event this year will be at the 8th Jeju Forum, where a “How to Globalize Jeju� seminar will seek to bend the ear of local officials. Korea, since its rapid development in the latter half of the twentieth century, has become a destination for both skilled and unskilled migrant workers. It has also seen an increase in international marriages and incoming international students, rapidly making it a multicultural society.

The international population on Jeju, despite being just 1.8 percent of the total population, grew by 22 percent between 2011-12 and is part of this national trend. The FAC represents a proactive step by the provincial government in addressing the cultural and institutional hurdles to integration that will become more obvious as these numbers grow. In its first full year of operation, the FAC has many obstacles to overcome, not least the scepticism among some international residents. Chairperson Chung is undeterred: “Skeptics? There are no skeptics among the Committee and we are all committed and very serious about realizing a global Jeju.� The FAC is producing a guide for all foreign residents of Jeju and is improving English language services on the provincial government’s website: “we will try to achieve these this year,� said Chung. This is in addition to plans to improve road signage across the island and medical services for international

residents. Despite the desire for change, it remains to be seen whether the committee can influence policy decisions in the provincial government and Chung sought to dampen expectations that such changes were possible. “This committee is just advisory, we are not a committee of the kind that can enforce decisions. At the moment we are just trying to gauge the needs of the foreign community,� Chung said. The committee is seeking the input of the international community on Jeju as it seeks to set out its plans for its first full year ahead. Contact between the committee and the community is crucial, Chung stressed. “An example was the workshop last December that was open to all foreigners. These kind of workshops are the channels through which foreigners can get their voices heard by the committee,� said Chung. Communication and aspiring to be an international city is a central concern of the committee. Vice Chairperson Wonhee You vocalized her concerns that they should not just discuss ideas, but “gather more voices about what’s working and what’s needed.� Marsha Bogolin, Chairperson of Adapting to Jeju Society, believes that many of the barriers of wider society are reflected within the Committee itself, but that progress is being made: “Through the FAC committee itself, we are... bridging the culture and language barriers together, especially in meetings of smaller numbers,� she said. Although differences in language and culture are still being overcome, the FAC is treading new ground as it seeks to smooth the passage to a global Jeju. The support of both the provincial government and the international community will be crucial if it is to achieve its goals in the year ahead. To contact the Committee please email Lee, Eun Ju at: ejlee@korea.kr

A token of an artist’s love on display at Seogwipo gallery /HH -XQJ 6HRS $UW *DOOHU\ 1HZ <HDU H[KLELWLRQ Translated by Kim Jinmi MLQPLNLP#MHMXVZHHNO\ FRP

Lee Jung Seop was among the Korean painters who introduced modern western painting to Korea and he promoted a uniquely Korean style in his work. Lee is widely loved in Korea and his gallery will be displaying his Sun Prize palette - also a symbol of his love - until March 31. The Sun Prize palette was given to Lee by the Japan Painting Creator Association, an independent painters’ association. When he left Japan, he gave it to

his Japanese wife, Yamamoto Masako, with the promise that he would come back to Japan to study. This palette, therefore, became a love token and a symbol of his promise. He married Yamamoto Masako in Wonsan, Korea, in 1945 during a time of political strife between Korea and Japan. She took on a Korean name, Lee Nam Duk, and they had two sons; they lived in Wonsan, Busan and Jeju for a total of eight years. Upon Lee’s untimely death in 1956, Lee returned to Japan to live with her two sons. She retained the palette as a token of their love for 70 years.

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Lee visited the Lee Jung Seop Art Gallery on Nov. 1 to donate the palette at 92 years of age. She wanted to show her

appreciation to Jeju Island for the support shown to her husband.

Exhibition Period: Until Mar. 31 2013 Location: Lee Jung Seup Art Gallery, 1st floor, 440-1 Seogwi-dong, Seogwipo City Opening hours: 09:00 – 18:00. Closed every Monday Fee: 1,000 won (adult), 500 won (youths and military personnel), 300 won (children)

06 Guide for Expats

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

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www.jejuweekly.com

Although living overseas offers us all a unique opportunity to explore a new culture and to live like the locals, sometimes it’s nice to get items from home. No matter how much you want something, however, finding it can be difficult on our island. Your Korean language skills might be limited, or you might not know where to start looking. At these times you have no choice but to go online, but you quickly learn that EBay, Amazon, and Wal-Mart.com are not going get you what you need, at the right price. Enter The Weekly’s guide to affordable online shopping for expats!

Food Fo odss For some people it’s immediate. For others it takes a few months. Sometimes it strikes you without warning. What is it? It’s the craving for those special foods from home. If you’re looking for particular spices, a box of PopTarts, or a big ol’ block of real cheese, then there are a couple of websites you need to know.

iHerb.com iHerb.com offers a variety of vitamins, supplements and whole food options. It’s a great place to get things like spices, teas, beans, and flour that you’re missing from home. Be sure to check out their freebies and shipping promotions. First-time users can apply the coupon code IKU571 to save $5 on their first order.

EZshopkorea.com EZShopkorea.com is a mainland outlet that stocks goodies that are hard to find on Jeju, such as cheeses, salamis, Pop-Tarts, cereals, Hamburger Helper, and many other ‘home’ items. EZShop is connected to a Costco store in Seoul, where the items are picked up and shipped to you. It is best to to order with friends as orders

over 250,000 won receive free ground shipping (including Jeju). Jeju residents must pay by bank transfer, rather than credit card.

highstreet.co.kr High Street Market has similar goods to EZShop, but a lower limit for free shipping to Jeju at 150 thousand won. Currently a 10 percent discount is offered to customers posting pictures of themselves wearing a green shirt to their “High Street Market” Facebook page for St. Patrick’s Day. Be sure to include the time and date in the photo to receive the discount.

Book Bo okss On Jeju it’s not always easy to find English books other than your school’s textbooks. Luckily, there are more and more options arising every day to get a hold of English titles.

Jeju Book Swap Jeju Book Swap is a Facebook group created by one of our very own expats to expand the sharing of books on the island. Join the group to trade, swap, borrow, buy, sell, give and get books that you’d love to read. Be sure to keep “paying it forward” by offering your own library!

whatthebook.com What the Book is an expat-owned bookstore in Itaewon, Seoul. It’s a great place to visit in person but their vast collection is also available online. They even offer discounted used books.

bookdepository.co.uk The Book Depository is a UK online bookstore that offers FREE! shipping worldwide. With thousands of books to choose from, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for. The great prices and free shipping make the Book Depository a fantastic online resource for English literature.

C ot Cl othing ng g, elec e ectr el ecttron onic o on ics cs an and a d ot othe other er item ittems ems As old-timers in Korea know, many things are cheaper and easier to buy online. For example, electronics and furniture are often cheaper online and if you’re bigger than the average Korean, websites can provide sizes to suit your build.

Home-country websites When ordering from foreign websites, be aware that if your combined weekly purchases total over 100 US dollars, you may be required to pay import tax. One way to avoid this fee is to have a family member or friend at home receive your online purchase and send it to you marked as ‘gift’. Another way to diminish the fees is to order with friends and share the import taxes and shipping.

Gmarket.co.kr At Gmarket you can find anything from clothes and books to food and furniture, plus a lot more! There is an English option and if you’re able to navigate the flashing pictures and frequent bad translations - if translated at all - then you can find almost anything. However, it is best to have a Korean-speaker with you when ordering as there is a lot of Korean form-filling to wade through.

11st.co.kr 11street is very similar to Gmarket and has a large variety of items including clothing, jewelry, sports equipment, and electronics. Again, even though an English option for searching is available, it is necessary to have someone with workable Korean to help with selection and ordering.

asos.com this is a UK clothes outlet offering free shipping worldwide. If you want your clothes a bit earlier (within 4-7 days) you can pay 45 thousand won for the privilege. UK styles are expectedly cutting edge and discounts are as high as 70 percent.

My Jeju 07

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

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By Darren Southcott HGLWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP

In part two of our interview with Dan Nabben, the Furey founder speaks more about the creation of the Foundation and how it can foster understanding between communities

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What was Nathan Furey, whose death led to the creation of the Furey Foundation, like? He was the kind of guy that didn’t have any enemies. People who didn’t know him wouldn’t hear of any reason to dislike him; people who knew him a bit, liked him; and people who knew him really well really liked him. Lifestyle-wise, he had the whole package: the wife, the two kids, the house, the job, the car, the motorcycle, the friends, the hobbies, good health. So when he got sick, the doctors were looking at aspects of his lifestyle that may have led to his condition, but there just weren’t any…It all happened so fast. One day he was sick, six days later it was all over. [Dan goes on to explain the events surrounding Nathan’s sudden illness, including how he had seemed in perfect health. The morning before his hospitalization he had cycled 10 kilometers to frisbee practice and then returned home to entertain some friends in the evening. By late-afternoon he was clearly quite ill and retired to bed. This led to a series of incidents which changed the lives of those close to Nathan, forever. Six days later, after friends rallied round to support Nathan and his family, he tragically passed

away. Dan had been at the center of events, contacting Furey family members in Canada and relaying news to the foreign community on Jeju.]

How did you become the fulcrum of the fundraising efforts? Being ‘the guy’ who sent out the first update, I became the guy who was being asked for more news, so I kept visiting the hospital and kept sending out updates and I’d get offers to help. When it became clear that, best-case scenario, the hospital bills alone would be costly, we knew exactly what needed to be done...I remember being at home, and sitting and pacing and I was thinking, “Okay, who’s going to take the initiative and lead this thing?” Then it hit me hard: If Nathan were to die, a number of things will be lost to those kids forever, including a lifetime of income, gone. That’s a huge change in lifestyle and potential for the kids. And it was about time I did something good and for someone else, so, the way I saw things, everyone had a role to play. We all wanted to console the family and help, but that’s a job for the best friends. Myself and the rest of the secondary friends had a different role. Anj Schroder and Jessie Dishaw were heavily involved in those first months, too. But I spoke Korean, was in constant contact with the family, set up the account, and kept getting lots of offers of help, so I became the head de facto.

Where do you want to take Furey next? That’s a tough question because you said ‘want’. When you talk about the future, ‘want’ so quickly becomes ‘dream’. I just want it to reach its full potential

whatever that may be. If people from China, Japan, Guam, and the mainland are willing to fly to Jeju for the Frisbee tournament, then there must be likeminded volleyball players out there, too. We know there are. And the bigger it gets the more people we can help. What I don’t want is for it to ever become non-altruistic. That is to say, if the organization comes to a point where it no longer raises all that much money for the poor, or no longer reaches out to all members of Korea’s communities, or Asia’s or maybe beyond, there’d be a serious problem.

Does Furey project a positive image of the international community? Absolutely! Having lived in Jeju for a few years before Jeju Furey, I can say that as a result of many foreigners enjoying Jeju so much, they had this desire to give back – but there wasn’t really any fun way to do it. Jeju Furey provided that albeit not by design. And I know from talking to many people, including Koreans, that foreigners had a reputation for being heavy ‘takers’ but light ‘givers,’ so Jeju Furey acts as a counterweight. That is not to say that everything that happens at the events is spic ‘n’ span, but for the vast majority of those involved and affected, I’d say it’s a positive thing. It’s also a good way to project an image because it reaches out to so many, and gets people active, participating, and actually doing stuff. Jeju Furey events ask for much more [than money]. We ask for significant commitments in time and for good, responsible behaviour – and the people deliver.

Do the events promote integration between communities?

Sure, so long as integration means ‘sharing in experiences’ instead of, foreigners coming in and imposing their values on Koreans. Integration ought to be more like a blue thread being knitted into a grey sweater to give it a trim. The sweater isn’t compromised, but there’s a nice added touch. I’ve seen it happen a few times where a foreigner spends a lot of quality time with Koreans outside the workplace, without the buffer of having other foreigners around, and they always have a much richer experience and better understanding. Koreans still have a lot of misconceptions of western culture, but they are outdone by foreigners with misconceptions of Korean culture, and I’m including people who’ve lived there for years. The difference-maker is usually whether or not the person has learned Korean. Having a bilingual Korean spouse or boyfriend/girlfriend is usually not enough: there are still three filters between you and the source.

If you could point to one major change being involved with the Furey Foundation has made, what would it be? I now have trouble looking at any kind of financial transaction, form of business, or event and not think, ‘okay, how can that raise money for charity?’ That’s a lens that I see through a heck of a lot more these days.

08 Green Jeju

The Jeju Weekly

Pay-as-you-throw food waste management system

March 2013

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It was a cold, snowy day on Jan. 27 when Captain Clean (a.k.a. Troy MacLellan) made his fifth appearance on Jeju. Captain Clean is a superhero with a mission to rid Jeju of all unsightly garbage, from the oceans and beaches to the hills and parks. When he appears, you are sure to spot his sidekicks close by and in their wake you will see orange bags, filled with bulging garbage.

The Jeju Weekly

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The pay-as-you-throw food waste management system has been in effect nationwide since Jan 1. Jeju residents living in apartment buildings or residential areas of more than 50 houses are required to dispose of food waste using the RFID (Radio Frequency Identification Reader) system. Those living in areas with no access to RFID bins will use plastic food waste bags and dispose of waste at a “Clean House.� Charges are 22 won per kilogram when using the RFID card, and 76 won per kilogram for restaurants and other large-scale establishments. Yellow food-waste bags can be purchased at convenience stores for: 36 won for two-liter bags; 54 won for three liters; 90 won for five liters; 180 won for 10 liters; and 500 won for 20 liters. The system has been introduced to reduce waste and save resources. Waste that cannot be composted - such as toothpicks and chopsticks - must be disposed of in the white combustible-waste bags, bought from convenience stores. The provincial government is monitoring Clean Houses and even visiting people’s homes to ensure compliance. In some villages, locals are working cooperatively and some have volunteered to be “keepers� of the Clean House. Community leaders, local government officials and members of the public have formed teams to distribute disposal bags and publicize the new policy. Government officials stress the new system is not voluntary and failure to comply will result in fines starting at 10 thousand won. The provincial government has stepped up environmental policies as it seeks to become a green city and reduce the province’s carbon footprint.

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Troy first had the idea of “Captain Clean and the Green Machine� in 2009, but the spandex crusader didn’t become a reality until Aug. 2012, when he staged his first cleanup. Troy had read about Jeju’s pristine environment before arriving here and began his campaign after finding the attitude to the environment was “the polar opposite of what I expected.� He believes this isn’t just a problem for Koreans, but for all those who live and vacation on Jeju: “I was shocked at the amount of garbage everywhere and the fact that there didn’t seem to be anything being done about it.� With about 150 volunteers and over 200 bags of garbage collected so far, Captain Clean is definitely doing something about it. At the time of writing, cleanups have been staged at Jocheon, Gimnyeong, Iho and Bomok, and there are more in the offing. The latest cleanup took place at Shin Jeju’s Children’s Park and although previous efforts saw numerous volunteers turn up, this particular Saturday just four people volunteered to assist Captain Clean. Energy and spirit were not lacking though and almost four bags of garbage were picked up in the small area. Elizabeth Holbrook, one of the volunteers, dedicated her time on a Saturday morning because she believes the organization is tackling a huge problem: “Jeju is such a special place, especially in the sense that the air and water are so clean, considering it is not that far from the mainland, which has so much more pollution. That being said, it won’t stay that way unless people start taking more action to preserve the island.� As the frosty morning went on, Troy talked about a new development for the Green Machine. Captain Clean has now teamed up with Jeju Sea Grant, a fund which supports marine habitats and resources, plus marine tourism and sports. The partnership is planning four coastal cleanups for later this year, with one scheduled for February, although a date has yet to be set. Troy hopes that the extra funding from the grant will help spread Captain Clean’s motto of “Keep it Clean.� As Ms. Holbrook said: “every little bit helps.� If you want to help “Keep it Clean,� search Facebook or YouTube for: “Captain Clean’s Green Machine,� or email Captain Clean directly at: cptclean@hotmail.com

Culture 09

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

Jeju shamanism: a primer

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By Sunyoung Hong DQG Anne Hilty

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Shamanism remains a mystery to most non-Asian peoples. Although animism, or looking to the natural world for the supernatural, is at the heart of all indigenous religions, and elements of the shamanistic tradition out of central Siberia can be found throughout the world, Korea is one of few developed nations to maintain such a practice. Forms of neo-shamanism and other so-called pagan religions are popular throughout the western world, often coupled with a romanticized view of nature and/or a nostalgia for simple living which maintains an ecological connectedness. In Korean mainland shamanism, its “mudang,� or shamans - predominantly female - have long been the antithesis of this Neo-Confucian country. On Jeju, however, shamanism has taken its own form. The shamanistic tradition is classified as “magico-religious.� Often also a system of physical medicine or healing, it is generally meant to soothe the mind and spirit, contain the oral history of a people, and render life meaningful and events significant through the use of ritual. On Jeju, shamanism has long been the core of village life. In its village-based shamanistic system, all conflict within a village was expected to be resolved prior to communal rituals in order to help ensure the gods’ benevolence and village prosperity. Jeju’s traditionally egalitarian society was based upon mutual aid; its matrifocal structure included powerful female deities, and diving women as the primary economic force.

The practice of shamanism suffered a great deal during the Joseon dynasty which saw it as contradictory to the favored Confucian social order. As the Joseon era gave way to Japanese colonization and the demise of the Korean monarchy, all folkloric, linguistic and other traditions deemed to contribute to nationalism were forbidden. In the 1970s, under the Park Chung-hee administration with its New Villages Movement (“Saemaeul Undong�) for economic reconstruction, shamanism along with other traditional customs was declared the enemy of modernity. Shamans were required in formal proceedings to give their tools to the government and renounce their beliefs. Practices continued in secret, though, at the threat of legal sanctions. Today, shamanistic rituals and shamans themselves are often recognized at provincial and national levels as “Intangible Cultural Heritage;� some, such as Jeju’s Chilmeori Shrine Ritual to Yeongdeung, Goddess of Sea and Wind, are UNESCO-designated as cultural heritage of global significance. Shamans, called�’sinbang� or “simbang� (pronounced “shin/mbahng�) on Jeju, can be recognized by the provincial government not only as Skills Holders for specific knowledge but also as “keun-simbang,� or Great Shamans; currently, there are only two: Keunsimbang Kim Yoon Soo of the Chilmeori Shrine Preservation Society in Geonibdong, Jeju City, and Keun-simbang Yang Chang-bo of Keun-gut Preservation Society, Gujwa-eup. Shamanistic rituals follow a universal form, beginning with each participant’s purification in both body and mind prior to the observance, as well as cleansing of the ritual space and laying out of offerings. A shaman calls to the spirit-

world, acting either as mediator or conduit for the spirits to appear. This is typically accomplished by the use of: incense; fire or candles; musical instruments, such as bells; drums, gongs and cymbals; and chanting or singing, as well as the shaman’s tools which are culture-specific. Once the spirits are present, the shaman recites the oral history and notation of those in attendance, as it is considered polite to let the spirits know who is calling them, as well as the purpose of the ritual. In the body of the ritual - which may take various forms,

such as dramatic play, recitation, music and dancing, gestures of healing, or other forms appropriate to the purpose - the gods are honored and cajoled, restless spirits consoled, and devotees comforted. Every ritual on Jeju includes a “meinsimbang,� main shaman, as well as many assisting shamans who conduct portions of the ritual, play the musical instruments, and otherwise support the lead shaman. Once the mein-simbang deems that the purpose of the ritual has been achieved, he or she exhorts the spirits to return to their world, and the ceremony closes with music and a communal dance, followed by the sharing of food and drink. One of the features that renders Jeju shamanism unique is the familial, almost casual attitude of devotees toward their gods. Most deities in the extensive pantheon of this “Island of 18,000 Gods� were either once human, elevated to deity after death, or are otherwise perceived as ancestors and as members of the village in which a shrine is located and rituals are based. Jeju shamanistic rituals are conducted solely in Korean language, and generally only in the local dialect – unintelligible to mainland Koreans. Some rituals, though village-based, are today open to outsiders, and shamans have even been known to include such in their recitation to the spirits regarding ritual attendees. [For details on the proper conduct when attending a public ritual, please go to the Jeju Weekly website for the companion piece to this article.] Dr. Hilty is a cultural health psychologist from New York who now makes Jeju Island her home; she has been studying shamanism around the world for more than 25 years. Dr. Hong is a scholar of cultural heritage and its intersection with tourism; she is a Jeju native and daughter of a haenyeo.

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10 Exhibition

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

Baltic culture gets a warm reception on Jeju /LWKXDQLDQ DUW VWXGHQW EULQJV KHU FRXQWU\Ň‹V XQLTXH SDQWKHRQ WR ORFDO JXHVWKRXVH

By Darren Southcott

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Jeju’s myths are many and varied, from the paradise-desiring creator Seolmundae Halmang, to dolphin’s friend and goddess of the sea, Youngdeung Halmang. There is even room in the pantheon for a samgyeopsal-loving god, Kang Hareubang, banished from home by his stern wife for his porky odour. These riches, so often lost in the drive to modernity, are shared with many other cultures across the globe. One such place is Lithuania, whose Baltic heritage preserves a deep lore lost in most of modern Europe. Lithuanian art student, Agnes Latinyte, recently showcased her country’s Baltic mythology at Game Guesthouse, in Geonib-dong. While it is a revived, rather than living, mythology, it survived until the 19 th century in the form of folk beliefs; the

nation resisted Christianization until as late as the 15th century. The pantheon is diverse: there is the shape-shifting and one-eyed Velinas, lord of the underworld; the forest-dwelling Milda, luring men with her beauty; äHP\QD WKH PRWKHU JRGGHVV DQG FUHDWRU

of all the earth, and many more besides. Latinyte said a number of unexpected invites and chance meetings resulted in her exhibition on the island: “It was a funny and twisted series of events that led to Jeju,� Latinyte said. The decision to introduce her rich Baltic culture to Korea was based in pride; Latinyte feels the northeastern corner of Europe is often overlooked in favor of the more dominant cultural blocs in Europe. “Usually people know about Greek myths, Roman gods, sometimes even a couple of stories from Scandinavian mythology, but few are aware of the existence of Baltic mythology. Baltic people covered quite a large part of Europe in ancient times and it’s a very unique and influential culture in Central and Eastern Europe,� Latinyte said. Before coming to the “Island of 18,000 Gods,� Latinyte was unaware of the similarities between Baltic tradition and the folk beliefs still prevalent on Jeju. “I have always said that cultures have many things in common and I could see it with my own eyes. Especially in Jeju where older beliefs are much more preserved than on the mainland, many visitors found similarities with old Korean folk deities, similarities in symbols and values,� she said. Indicating how traditions remain part of the fabric of everyday life even while belief systems die out, Latinyte was struck by some familiar customs on Jeju.

“During my stay in Jeju I have also witnessed several cultural customs that are strangely alike. For example, at the five-day market we saw a man pouring soju on the ground - a drop before drinking - to sacrifice for the gods. In Lithuania, we do exactly the same when drinking beer,� she said. Latinyte’s work strikingly portrays the Baltic gods through layered imagery, taken from hundreds of sources: “If I like one finger in a picture, I will use it.� Photomanipulation was used to create a series of images of gods and goddesses that are stark and haunting; the images are overlaid with the Lithuanian runic futhark, adding to their mysterious air. The location for the exhibition was not a typical arthouse, being in the lobby area of a mid-renovation travellers’ guesthouse: “Everyone thinks you should do an exhibition with white walls, but I like the old feel, with the Korean window,� Latinyte said. The success of her first show on the island looks like leading to others and there are already plans to return in the summer. The mythology of Jeju has also been quick to leave its mark, as a collaboration is planned, combining Lithuanian with Jeju mythology. “I am looking forward to learning Korean painting techniques from fellow artists, or in collaboration projects, where we can combine not only techniques, but ideas and cultures as well,� she said.

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March 2013

The Jeju Weekly

Colorful Jeju / News Briefs 11

Cocoma A codama is a tangerine which is too small to sell. It means a small bead in Japanese. She is very small but she tastes very sweet. And she is my favorite pachi tangerine. To contact the artist, email greamarts@gmail.com, or connect with “GREAM” on Facebook.

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Jeju Island certified as National Geological Park Jeju island received the title of National Geological Park from the Ministry of Environment on Feb. 20 at the Lexington Hotel in Seoul. Ulleung-do and Dok-do (islands) were also certified. Jeju island became Korea's first certified geopark when it was awarded the designation by the UNESCO World Geopark Steering Committee in 2010. The national government amended the Natural Parks Law and introduced the National Geological Park system after Jeju Island received national geopark certification. The Jeju Island national geopark is 1.8 million hectares and includes Mt. Halla National Park as well as the Yongmeori coast. The 3rd Asia-Pacific Geopark General Assembly will be held in Jeju this September. 300 participants from 20 countries, including European Geopark Network members, are set to attend.

Cruise tourism to blossom

Jeju's international cruise tourism for 2013 began with the port entry of the cruise ship ‘Costa Victoria’ on February 23rd. The Costa Victoria sails between Korea, China, and Japan, and is expected to dock in Jeju 29 times between February and October of this year. 13 different international cruise ships are expected to dock in Jeju a total of 170 times this year, bringing with them 350 thousand tourists. The number of cruise ship dockings is projected to increase 112 percent over last year, and the number of tourists arriving on the ships should increase 150 percent. An official from the provincial government

said that they are trying their best to attract more cruise tourists. The official also stated that there are plans for Jeju to become an Asian hub port which would be supported through the growth of international cruise tourism as well as network building.

Jeju birthrate highest in the nation

The average birthrate in Jeju over the last 10 years has topped the nation, as has the number of families with third children. According to the Jeju Special Self Governing Province, there were 1.49 children per household recorded in 2011, which is higher than the national average. Jeju has topped the nation for babies born per family since 2001 and the rate is steadily increasing. Jeju Special Self Governing Province estimates the average birthrate this year to be around 1.6 per household. Meanwhile, the rate of families with more than three children was 19.1 percent in 2011, again significantly higher than the national average. The survey suggests that larger families are considered positively among islanders, with three out of 10 married women stating plans to have more children after their third child.

Residence assistance offered for married female immigrants The Jeju Multicultural Family Support Center will run a pilot program this year to provide customized services through a specialized counselor for married female immigrants. The counselor will offer information and advice to individuals experiencing trouble due to Korean speaking ability and economic conditions. The counselor can target issues multicultural families have in settling in Korea, and will provide a variety of services in cooperation with social organizations and institutions.

Jeju Migrant Information Center moves to new site

The Jeju Migrant Information Center, a branch of the Jeju City Multicultural Family Support Center, has moved to No. 33-1 Seogwang-ro 2-gil, Jeju City. It is located on the third floor of its new building, which is at the rear of the Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, in front of the public stadium.

Further information is available at www.jejumc. net.

Jeju to spend 30 billion won to expand free school meals

'Students in all of Jeju's elementary and middle schools will receive free lunches starting this year. Earlier this year, the Jeju Special Self Governing Province increased the budget for free meals in middle schools to 30 billion won. In addition, Jeju will put five billion won towards the lunch systems in use at daycare centers, encouraging the use of environmentally-friendly and organic foods. A total of 67 thousand middle school and elementary school students will receive free school meals starting this spring semester and organic rice will be provided to preschool children attending kindergarten and daycare centers. A total of 186 free-lunch days per year are included in the new program. The unit price of each lunch differs, with 2,400 won per lunch being allocated for each elementary school student, 2,600 won for each middle school student, and 2,000 won for each student in special-education schools for disabled youth.

Jeju to extend financial support to primary industries The financial support offered to Jeju's agricultural, forestry, and fishery industries will be increased to 160 billion won this year to revitalize rural economies and keep primary industries competitive. Jeju province's Warranty Center of the National Agricultural Cooperative announced the increased support budget, which is 15 billion won more than last year. The new '2013 New Start Campaign,' also aims to revitalize primary industries. The budget covers: 30 billion won to the livestock industry, 42 billion won to fisheries, and 89 billion won to the agroforestry industry. The increases are expected to bring stability to the industries and maintain competitiveness in primary industries alongside a 20 billion won support package for the reparation of farming facilities. These News Briefs are brought to courtesy of Arirang Radio, in a partnership agreement which sees content shared with The Jeju Weekly.

12 Calendar

The Jeju Weekly

March 2013

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Community Calendar The 7th Hueree Apricot Flower festival

Jeju Language Clubs

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Exhibitions Performance and Festivals

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World Calligrapher invitation exhibition 'DWHV 0DU -HMX &XOWXUH DQG $UW &HQWHU ,OGR GRQJ -HMX &LW\

)RU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ FDOO a Fire Festival Free Shuttle Bus )URP -HMX &LW\ -HMX 6WDGLXP Ó™+DOOD 8QLYHUVLW\ Ó™6DHE\HRO 2UHXP HYHU\ PLQXWHV 0DU HYHU\ a PLQXWHV 0DU

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Seogwipo City Announcements Culture Art Market & author’s walking trail )HE 'HF HYHU\ 6DWXUGD\ DQG 6XQGD\ D P S P /HH -XQJ 6HRSҋV ZDONLQJ WUDLO 6HRJZLSR FLW\ $XWKRUҋV ZDONLQJ WUDLO WULS HYHU\ 6DWXUGD\ DQG 6XQGD\ S P /HH -XQJ 6HRS SDUN 3HUIRUPDQFH DFRXVWLF JXLWDU DQG ZLQG LQVWUXPHQW HQVHPEOH ([SHULHQFH 7UDGLWLRQDO FUDIWV KDQGPDGH .RUHDQ SDSHU SDSHU UXEELQJ )RU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ FDOO

Uncase Exhibition of Collected Artwork 8QWLO 0DU -HMX 1DWLRQDO 0XVHXP ,OMXGRQJ UR -HMX &LW\

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Byun Shi Ji Permanent Exhibition, Kang Yong Beom Permanent Exhibition *LGDQJ $UW 0XVHXP 1DPVHRQJ UR 6HRJZLSR &LW\

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Recreation

Free Movies at Jeju Movie Culture Art Center -HMX 0RYLH &XOWXUH $UW &HQWHU ,OGR GRQJ -HMX &LW\ )RU WKH ODWHVW IXOO OLVWLQJV SOHDVH YLVLW KWWS EORJ QDYHU FRP MPRYLHFHQWHU

Seogwipo Intercity Bus Terminal integrated management guide )URP 0DU 6HRJZLSR ,QWHUFLW\ %XV 7HUPLQDO LV LQWHJUDWHG ZLWK 6KLQVKLJDML %XV 7HUPLQDO EXV DQG -XQJPXQ EXV URXWHV FKDQJH -HMX &LW\ Ó™6HRQJSDQ $N Ó™6HRJZLSR Ó™-XQJPXQÓ™ -HMX &LW\ -HMX &LW\ Ó™-XQJPXQÓ™6HRJZLSR Ó™6HRQJSDQ $N Ó™ -HMX &LW\ )RU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ FDOO

Traditional five-day markets open 6HRJZLSR 0DHLO 2OOH 0DUNHW GDLO\ -XQJPXQ 5XUDO )LYH 'D\ 0DUNHW 2SHQ rd WK WK WK rd DQG WK RI HDFK PRQWK 6HRJZLSR 5XUDO )LYH 'D\ 0DUNHW 2SHQ WK WK WK WK WK DQG WK RI HDFK PRQWK 6HRQJVDQ )LYH 'D\ 0DUNHW 'DHMHRQJ )LYH 'D\ 0DUNHW 2SHQ VW WK WK WK VW DQG WK RI HDFK PRQWK 3\RVHRQ )LYH 'D\ 0DUNHW 2SHQ nd WK WK WK nd DQG WK RI HDFK PRQWK 0RVHXOSR -XQJDQJ PDUNHW GDLO\ 0RVHXOSR 6DWXUGD\ 0DUNHW (YHU\ 6DWXUGD\ IURP D P The second and last Saturday of each month is the traditional market day. (The scheduled holiday of large-scale distributors)

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