The Jeju Weekly Issue86

Page 1

April 2013

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Trauma and healing: Jeju’s path toward full recovery By Anne Hilty HDVWZHVW SV\FKH#JPDLO FRP

Jeju is a post-conflict society in active pursuit of healing. The mid-20th century tragedy known as “4.3� (“sa-sam�) according to a significant anniversary date, was an era (1947-1954) filled with mass executions, decimation of entire villages by fire, refugee hideouts in caves and similar structures, unexplained disappearances, suspicion, betrayal, extended terror and generalized instability. While the details including culpability may never be fully revealed, it nonetheless represents a time of sus-

tained and repeated trauma for all involved. The battle for truth, justice, reparation and reconciliation is ongoing, bravely fought by activists, researchers, artists, writers, and survivors and their families. Indeed, it would be difficult to find any native person of Jeju who has not been

directly or indirectly affected. Across the nation, the term “healing� has suddenly and powerfully entered the cultural narrative, and while it is applied widely, it represents an awakening in the Korean psyche of insufficiently addressed emotional wounding. Until quite recently, the concept of

“healing� was deemed unfamiliar to Koreans. Today, it has exploded onto the national stage. Well-being, an earlier movement, is a concept that assumes a baseline of health. Found insufficient by many, the need to achieve the latter before the former becomes possible Continued on page 2

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Publisher : Song Jung Hee Editor : Darren Southcott Designer : Yun Seong Un Address : Rm. 505 Jeju Venture Maru Bldg. 217 Jungang-ro, Jeju City, Korea Phone : +82-64-724-7776, 702-8885 / Fax : +82-64-724-7796 For advertizing or further inquiries please contact: editor@jejuweekly.com

Vol. IV No. 86

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02 4.3 Massacre

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

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Continued from page 1 would now seem to be more widely understood. In February, Jeju’s association for families of 4.3 victims and survivors organized a seminar to explore the need for a trauma center. Council member Kang Chang-il (Democratic United Party) is sponsoring a bill for the creation of such a facility. Gwangju already has a trauma center, to address the post-traumatic symptomatology of those who were directly affected by the 1980 military massacre of pro-democracy activists. While it is not well-funded, doesn’t have its own facility but exists in rented space, and is only now beginning to achieve adequate organization and treatment success, according to Oh Seung-kook, deputy secretary general of Jeju’s 4.3 Peace Foundation, it is a positive step and a model for Jeju. Government funding at both national and provincial levels is required for such an undertaking, emphasized Oh. Trauma Much is not yet realized about the nature of Jeju’s trauma, however. Not all trauma results in post-traumatic stress symptoms, as the acute phase typically passes within one to three months following the traumatic event. However, Type II trauma, sustained and/or involving multiple incidents, is especially difficult to resolve and more often results in lasting symptomatology. The fact that a half-century of political suppression followed this period, to include government denial of culpability and criminalization of its discussion, as well as extension of victims’ “criminal” status to family members, served to fester this wound and prevent any true measure of healing. The concepts of “victim” and “survivor” are also too narrowly applied, as traumatization extends well beyond those who were on the “front line” – directly affected physically and/or emotionally. The effects of trauma and terror reach also to those who were not present for actual events but who were secondarily affected, such as the family members of those killed or who disappeared. Young children are especially vulnerable in a terror-filled environment, particularly those under the age of five, for whom brain development is highly susceptible to the influx of stress hor-

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mones such as cortisol, adrenaline, norepinephrine, and others. This phenomenon, which negatively impacts the ability to form healthy relationships, results in emotional instability, and prevents the development of a core sense of safety and belief in a benevolent world, is often referred to as the “neurobiology of terror.” This profoundly affected age cohort can be found among those Jeju people now in their 60s. Intergenerational transmission of trauma is another often poorly understood concept. Children reared by adults who suffered severe traumatization for which they were not treated, even if those children were not born until well after the event itself, suffer many of the same psychological symptoms as their parents and are prone to develop such disorders as depression, anxiety, social phobias, and substance abuse, among others. Resilience It is well known among researchers of post-conflict societies that the effects of war and other sustained traumas, such as that experienced by the people of Jeju,

can take up to 100 years – five generations – to fully resolve. Humans are resilient, even in the face of severe and sustained trauma. Resilience is the ability not only to survive extreme hardship but even to thrive in its aftermath. The people of Jeju, having faced multiple hardships for centuries, share a high degree of adaptability and a strong sense of community that has contributed to their survival. With a history not only of hardship but of multiple invasions by others and perceived insults from the mainland and central government, the people of Jeju have formed and relied upon a strong bond with one another which has sustained them despite this severe and long-lasting rift in the fabric of their society. Individual resilience, however, deteriorates with age, as researchers of Holocaust survivors have learned. A particularly vulnerable group on Jeju, in addition to those who were young children at the time of the traumatic events, are the “old-old” as they are known in the medical field. Those over 80 years of age who suffered trauma at an earlier time in

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life, yet were resilient and highly functioning subsequently, are known to experience latent post-traumatic symptoms with the breakdown of physical and cognitive-emotional health that often comes with advanced age. The key feature of trauma symptomatology is a distortion of time. The past does not invade the present, in the form of memories that a person can’t escape, as is often thought. The past in fact, for the traumatized person, folds in on the present; that is, past traumatic events are experienced, consciously or unconsciously, as if they are occurring now, which can be extremely disabling. The disruptions to Jeju society, to its sense of community and individual relationships, to the health of its elders including those who do not perceive themselves to be ‘survivors’ of this historic trauma, are ongoing and in need of greater understanding – and, healing. Dr. Hilty is a cultural health psychologist from New York. She now makes Jeju Island her home.

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The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

Movie Review 03

Jiseul: the starting point for the island of peace 5HIOHFWLRQV RQ 2 0XHOŇ‹V -LVHXO E\ KLJK VFKRRO VWXGHQW DQG -HMX QDWLYH <HR -XQ /HH

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In the movie, a couple of households go to a mountain cave to hide for a few days until the commotion in their village passes. They have very little food or belongings with them. The families chat merrily, sometimes worrying about a daughter or livestock left behind. They don’t seem to know anything about communism, or even why soldiers have come to their village. What they do know is, everything is going to be over soon. Despite their expectations, the days in the cave get longer and longer. The military is burning down houses, slaughtering villagers, raping women. Those who have gone down the mountain to seek others find their loved ones dead. One, caught by

conducted last year. While doing research on the 4.3 Massacre I realized one thing: to gain even the FRQWULEXWRU#MHMXZHHNO\ FRP slightest understanding of what happened, perceiving is not enough. As generations who have Many years have passed since one of the most never experienced such an incident, we can barely tragic events in Korean history swept across Jeju comprehend it just by ‘knowing’. Rather, we should Island. The 4.3 Massacre, also known simply as “sa ‘empathize’ with the islanders. sam,â€? claimed more than 14 thousand mostly We must get into the shoes of the people who innocent lives, according to official Korean went up the mountain and had absolutely no government figures. (Some activists put the figure knowledge of what would happen in the end. And as high as 60 thousand.) The killings were only after empathizing can we slowly understand committed under a policy of “driving out commuthe essential reason why this incident should never nistsâ€? and other resistance forces on the island. Not be repeated: the massacre disregarded people’s only lives, but also bonds of trust between lives and wretchedly trampled on human rights. communities However, from were destroyed. a political point Virtually the of view, all this is whole island was just another hisripped apart. toric event, a When the tragecompilation of dy was over the facts and indigovernment burviduals. In this ied the atrocity respect, Jiseul into history, gives us the perfeigning ignofect opportunity rance, and Jeju to stand a step Islanders buried closer to the Jeju their pain deep people and realdown in their ize the true sig2 0XHOŇ‹V -LVHXO SRUWUD\HG WR DQ LQWHUQDWLRQDO DXGLHQFH RUGLQDU\ SHRSOHŇ‹V OLYHV GXULQJ WKH 0DVVDFUH Photo Courtesy Japari Film soul, muted, ternificance of the rified, as if event. speaking of it Jiseul allows us would start the misery all over again. the military, tells of the cave location in the naive to reflect on Jeju as the ‘Island of World Peace’. Now, the massacre itself is slowly beginning to belief that the soldiers will help - not knowing that Somehow, the ‘world peace’ in that slogan has come fade. As generations passed, it was rarely openly death alone awaits him and the others. to mean a “Miss Universeâ€? of peace - yet, world discussed and deemed politically sensitive. Also, as Even during such a hard and miserable time there peace is not about beautiful scenery. In Jeju, it long as those who experienced the incident are still is something to lighten the mood and cheer people comes from extending the lessons learned from the alive, it has been difficult to objectively reflect on up. “Jiseulâ€? (potato in Jeju dialect), is shared 4.3 Massacre. the event. However, among all these political and between the people. A mother grasps a basket of Lessons like, “true peace is not fighting one practical perspectives, what is easily overlooked jiseul, thinking of how starving her son must be in another for ideological differencesâ€? and, “basic but crucially important - is the story of the “people.â€? the cave. A soldier hands jiseul to another soldier human rights are the greatest value we must pursue Apart from the military, policemen or the rebels, who is tormented by their superior’s orders. The at all times.â€? These morals aren’t just lessons that those who were brutally murdered were Jeju jiseul are not just food, they are love, the only should have been learned at the time of the Islanders. Their story must be heard. To them the remaining humanity when all morals and justice incident, they are still valid today and should be 4.3 Massacre was not an ideological feud. To them have gone. universally applied. it was the crumbling of everyday life leaving them The touching and disturbing scenes of Jiseul leave By imparting them, Jeju Island can take part in with excruciating pain and sorrow. By seeing it this a profound impact on the audience. Watching establishing world peace. In the end, for this island way, we truly understand why it should never visualized scenes of the massacre is much more to be an “Island of World Peace,â€? it should be a happen again. This brings me to “Jiseul,â€? a movie shocking than reading documents about the place where people always remember the victims of which tells a story that should have been told a long incident. the 4.3 Massacre and share jiseul with one another. time ago. This reminded me of research my team and I By Yeo Jun Lee

04 Education

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

“Helping is more important to me than the money” 3LRQHHULQJ FKLOG FRXQVHORU KHOSV -HMX FKLOGUHQ SOD\ DQG EH KDSS\ By Ivo Spanjersberg

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According to international standards, South Korea is second only to Finland in educational performance, yet the country also scores highly on unhappiness amongst children. More and more parents are coming to realize that overemphasis on scholastic performance is detrimental to their happiness. Dr. Kim Yang Soon, of Jeju National University, is a pioneer in helping Korean children cope with their lives through play and relationship therapy. She feels that the parents often cause the problems. “The parents turn the children into study robots. There are so many problems here. For instance, Korean children can’t play, and even when they play, their toys reinforce the idea that you must conform to rules.” Dr Kim, a specialist in the field of Play Therapy and Parent-Child Relationships Therapy (CPRT), founded “Jeju Children’s Counseling Center,” with two separate institutes in JNU and Ido 2-dong. Kim helps children learn to behave like children. “Children can’t verbally properly express themselves, even at 10 or older. This is even more true when they are hurt. But while playing toys can take the place of words,” Kim said. Professor Garry Landreth, from the University of North Texas, first introduced Dr. Kim to the value of playing. His central idea is: “toys are the child’s words and play is the child’s language.” Dr. Kim came to know Professor Landreth during her time as a visiting professor at his university in 2001 and 2010. Learning to play is important for children in Korea, but it is not the only thing children learn through Play Therapy. “Taking responsibility is very important. Traditionally in Korean culture responsibility is often located outside of a child. When a child is hurt after hitting a

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big stone the mother and the child used to punish the stone for causing the pain. This led to the idea that you are not responsible for your problems, the responsibility lies somewhere else. Accepting responsibility for your own problems is one way of discovering a way out of problems,” she said. Sand play is also practised, through which children can express their unconscious thoughts by using sand to create figures and tell a story. For other children, animals can be very helpful, as often it is easier for a troubled child to “talk” to a dog during animal-assisted play therapy than to an adult. Other forms of therapy are available due to links with JNU, such as horticulture, music and art. Although not all staff speak English, the center can be contacted daily and Dr. Kim, an English speaker, is welcome to receiving contact from non-Korean speakers. After initial contact, the parents and child visit for an interview. Dr. Kim

stresses that she looks for “difficulties,” rather than “problems.” “I never use the word ‘problem’ - I don’t think problem children exist. There is a difficulty and that is what we have to try to solve.” The original JNU institute - which also has several labs for the students who study with the professor - grew out of the personal activities of the doctor: “I had been providing play therapy since 1997, in my own office, but that was when I only helped two children a week. Once I took on more children, it was obvious I needed more space.” In order to accommodate the increasing number of children attending the therapy sessions, a second site at Ido 2-dong was needed. “The new location is a separate nonprofit organization which can help more children and where student internships, separate from JNU, are possible.” This nonprofit organization employs two staff, whose salaries are actually paid

by the professor herself. Part of the costs of the center are covered by the counseling fees, but this is only a very small fraction of the total cost: “You can’t say no, that’s not possible. Helping is more important to me than the money.” “We have a lot of experience on Jeju with multicultural families. In Korea this usually means people with a parent from Vietnam, China or the Philippines, but with the international schools opening in Jeju, more and more Western children might come here...and are very welcome, too.” Whether it is about preventing school violence or attention improvement, the center can aid children on Jeju becoming happier humans. More information about the center can be found in Korean at http://cafe.naver. com/jccc55 or by telephone at 064 725 1379. An extended version of this article is available online at www.jejuweekly.com

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

Guide for Expats 05

Jeju goes to the world, the worldwideweb comes to Jeju (QJOLVK H JRYHUQPHQW UHVRXUFHV IRU H[SDWV

By Darren Southcott

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Korea leads the world in e-government services, it is official. In 2010 and 2012 Korea was ranked number one in the United Nation’s e-Government Survey, which recognized the nation “for establishing a robust telecommunications infrastructure, providing outstanding public service standards and development of human capital in the usage of e-government facilities.” Despite much of this being hidden behind the cryptic language isolate that is Hangugeo, English language resources are becoming increasingly common even from provincial government. Below is an introduction to some useful local and national sites, telling you everything from how to divide your rubbish, to your best local festival.

Living in Korea - national

Hi Korea at: http://www.hikorea. go.kr/pt/index.html Hi Korea is the main e-government site for foreigners, jointly created by the Ministry of Justice, the Ministry of Knowledge Economy and the Ministry of Labor. It provides investment, employment, residential, and other related information and services to international visitors and residents. Although its size is a bit overwhelming, this is the go-to site for the nuts and bolts of living in Korea as an international resident. The site is at its best for visa issues, providing information on how to register for re-entry, extension of stay and for changing workplace. It is also indispensable for changing visa status, such as through marriage. Labor-related issues are another of its strengths, along with investment information. In fact, this is top dog when it comes to foreigners and officialdom.

Living in Jeju - local Information for Foreigners at: http:// globallife.jeju.go.kr This site is something of a watereddown version of the national Hi Korea and its size makes it easier to navigate. Its strength is in providing local information, such as how to dispose of your household waste, or how to have a telephone line installed. It also gives more specialized info, such as how to invest in Jeju Island and guidelines on how to enter children into local schools. Although there are a series of sections, the bulk of the useful information is under “Jeju Life” in “Life Information” where your everyday queries are answered. There is also information on foreigners’ legal status in Jeju and investment procedures for foreign businesses. The site also provides links to local provincial government news and a Q&A section answers your questions directly. Unusually, it seems to be answered fairly regularly!

Tourist information - national Site: Visit Korea at: http://english. visitkorea.or.kr/enu/index.kto More geared towards visitors to Korea than residents, this site provides everything from where to go, where to stay and what to eat when you get there! It functions much like a basic guidebook and although it won’t give you the inside information on your local dong, it will give a useful overview of things like utility bills, banking, phone and postal services across the country. Definitely a useful online resource, if you’re not looking to dig too deep. The best section is probably “Destinations,” where there are a series of suggested itineraries for travelers across the country, including some trips around Jeju Island to try out.

Site: Korea - Gateway to Korea at: http://www.korea.net This site provides a wealth of information about Korea for residents and visitors, including the full resume of Korean President Park Geun-hye! More practical information includes the basics relating to housing and everyday needs, such as Visit Korea, but also includes a blog and introductory videos about contemporary Korea. There is also a full rundown of the Korean political structure and the arts scene, loads of downloadable books and videos, and it is easy to navigate. If you want to know anything from how much has been invested in the Gaesong Industrial Complex in 2011-12, to where you can take traditional food lessons, it’s a thumbs up for this one.

Tourist information - local

HiJeju at: http://www.hijeju.or.kr/ english/main.html This is run by Jeju Special SelfGoverning Province and is a useful guide to events around the island. A handy resource is the seasonal festival guide did you know about the Ollim Sweetfish Festival in May? The tour suggestions across the island might prove useful: Jeju City, Seogwipo City, east and west. These ensure you don’t miss any sights when you get out and about. The meat and bones of this site are in the “Travel Information” tab, as the rest is out of date (2007 Annual Report) or empty (Travel Reviews). A good guide if you need basic travel site info in a rush, but otherwise lacking. Jeju Tourism Organization at: http:// ijto.or.kr/english/ As expected, this is geared towards tourists and it is pretty threadbare - the “notice” section has been updated once in six months. It is for the “green” visitor to Jeju, who has not yet heard of the “three plenties,” and wants to have a paragraph

summary of the myth of Seolmundae. It’s a Wikipedia-lite, with nice colors and photographs. Jeju is described as: “The island revolving around Halla Mountain...where Jeju Special Self Governing Province is located.” There are nice pictures, though.

Other sites - local Jeju Development Coporation at: http://english.jdcenter.com Everything you need to know about Jeju Free International City, including information about planned infrastructure developments and current projects, like the education city. Jeju Meeting Incentives Convention Exhibitions (MICE) at http://www. jejumice.or.kr Information about conventions and events on the island, such as at the International Convention Center.

Other sites - national Invest in Korea at: http://www. investkorea.org An extremely well designed website for investors with a wealth of economic information about the country. Study in Korea at: http://www. studyinkorea.go.kr Contains all the key info. about studying in Korea, from entering university t o studying Korean and receiving scholarships. Live in Korea at: http://www. liveinkorea.kr/ This site is for multicultural families. It has multiple language options and outlines the support and services available through the Ministry of Gender Equality and Family.

06 Green Jeju

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

Ramsar recognizes Jeju’s watery riches 7KH JLDQW ZDWHU EXJ DQG QDUURZ PRXWK IURJ FDQ EH IRXQG DW 0XO\HRQJDUL 2UHXP QRUWK RI 3\RVHRQ Photo courtesy -HMX 7RXULVP 2UJDQL]DWLRQ

By Ptolemy Barnes

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Few are likely to have noticed the passing of World Wetlands Day in early February. This annual celebration of all things semi-aquatic dates back to 1971, when the Convention on Wetlands (the Ramsar Convention) was signed in Ramsar, Iran. There is no need to be distraught about missing the celebrations, however, as Jeju boasts some world-class wetland habitats for yearround pleasure. When governments sign up to the Ramsar Convention, as over 150 have so far, they express a commitment to maintaining crucial national wetlands. These commitments come with a blast of sustainability jargon, best summarised as “wise use�. “Wise use� is an approach to natural resources, human expertise, tourist services, and so on, which allows nature to live and breath as it would undisturbed. In Korea, this has led to something of a political quagmire. Wetlands globally cover an area one third larger than the U.S.A, yet there is no clear definition of what a wetland is. The convention itself is ambitiously broad in scope, including marsh, fen, peatland, and shallow tidal zones. These environments tend to be hugely diverse and, due to waterfowl migrationary habits, form a transnational network that requires an equally transnational response. Since acceding to the Ramsar Convention in 1997, the South Korean government has accrued 18 designated Ramsar sites, four of which are found on Jeju. Two of these are found on oreum (parasitic cones), which themselves were created by the interaction of land and water. In the aeons of Jeju’s formation, when magma would frequently surge to the surface, explosive contact of surface water and molten material eventually

generated the unique, rolling, landscape that we see today. It seems appropriate then that oreum now play host to such important wetland ecologies. Signees to the convention commit to “combining far-sighted national policies with co-ordinated international action� for the purpose of protecting the kind of flora and fauna that flourish in wetland environments. Far-sighted national policies often seem to point in different directions in Korea. The government and its agencies frequently boast of a green push toward sustainable management of natural habitats; it is, however, impossible not to notice the rampant pace of commercial and infrastructure development. These strike like a faultline through wetland conservation, as they do through all issues concerning Korea’s environment. Conservation groups criticized the previous government’s “Four Rivers Project� for its roughshod treatment of Korea’s wetland habitats, which resulted in it being put in the top five worst wetlands-related projects by the Ramsar Committee in 2012. The Ramsar Convention has been seen by environmental groups as a major step forward. It is not, however, a legally binding or restrictive agreement - there are no penalties for failing to honour the agreement. While for the time being Jeju’s Ramsar sites survive, much of Korea’s wetlands are under threat in the absence of strong national laws protecting them. In the struggle for these, the Ramsar Convention is likely to be little more than a symbolic reference.

runs to its top.

Muljangori Oreum Muljangori Oreum, added in 2008, is also a crater lake, located 900m above sea level. In local lore the Muljangori oreum has strong associations with Grandmother Seolmundae, Jeju’s creator goddess. The 63-hectare site is currently off-limits for trekkers.

The 1100 Altitude Wetland The highest on the list, the 1100 Altitude Wetland was added in 2009. It is really an assortment of half a dozen or so wetlands, phasing in and out of existence subject to rainwater and seepage. Among the most beautiful of Jeju’s wetlands, it is also one of the most ecologically crucial because of the volume of water that it holds. Visitors, well served by wooden

walkways and viewing platforms, have a chance of spotting Siberian Roe Deer and the Eurasian Badger.

Dongbaekdongsan Dongbaekdongsan, the latest addition, is located in one of Jeju’s enchanting evergreen forests, the north-eastern Seonheul Gotjawal. You will not find surface water in most Gotjawal and, despite its Ramsar status, there is little to be found on Dongbaekdongsan itself. The volcanic bedrock acts as a geological sieve, allowing rain to run down to the water table. For this reason, Dongbaekdongsan feeds the groundwater used as a source for the half-million residents of Jeju Island. There are, however, some streams and ponds in the area, breeding grounds for such species as the Black Paradise Flycatcher.

Mulyeongari Oreum Mulyeongari Oreum was listed because of the grassy crater lake at its crown. Though small and as shallow as one meter during dry spells, it is is home to a pair of endangered species: the giant water bug and the narrow-mouth frog. Found on road 1118 north of Pyoseon, the oreum can be accessed via a walkway that

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The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

Green Jeju 07

Lawyer fights to rescue dolphins from ‘abysmal prison’ at Jeju’s Pacific Land 6RQJ -L KHRQ LV ZRUNLQJ WR IUHH LOOHJDOO\ FDSWXUHG GROSKLQV DQG FKDQJH .RUHDŇ‹V RXWGDWHG DQLPDO SURWHFWLRQ ODZV

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By Darren Southcott

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Jeju Island is touted as a paradise for humans, but what about for animals? According to some animal rights campaigners it is “the Island of Animal Abuse,� due to cases of animal neglect and mistreatment. The case of the Pacific Land Indo-Pacific dolphins is a case in point. Pacific Land is a tourist attraction in Jungmun, Seogwipo, that puts on animal shows in what Dr. Naomi A. Rose, marine mammal scientist and protection advocate, calls: “one of the most outdated facilities I have ever seen.� As reported by Barrett and Hong of Yonhap, the dolphins - illegally captured - were sold to Heo and Koh of Pacific Land for around 15 million won each. Of the initial 11 dolphins procured this way, six have since died - one since the appeal process was instigated - and another Jedol - was sold to a Seoul theme park. (It will be released into Jeju waters in June 2014 after pressure from campaigners.) “At the moment Pacific Land possesses four dolphins, in total,� said Lawyer Song.Ji-heon, fighting for the release of the dolphins. The dolphins, taken from the sea between 2009 and 2010, live in facilities with poor water quality, no natural light and noise levels “among the highest I have ever experienced,� according to Dr. Rose. Song says Heo and Koh were found guilty of violating the Fishery Resource Management Act and Jeju District Court ordered the dolphins’ release and sentenced them each to eight months imprisonment and a 10 million won fine. In order to delay the release, says Song,

Heo and Koh lodged an appeal with the Supreme Court and the Court ordered arbitration while awaiting appeal. “The Korean Animal Welfare Association (KARA) requested medical checkups be conducted and aquarium conditions to be improved. Pacific Land refused and insisted on following their own standards. As such, the Korean Animal Welfare Association then asked for a reduction in noise to under 80 decibels and for blood samples to be taken.� “KARA also asked to transfer the dolphins via the Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs and requested possession of the dolphins, but Pacific Land insisted they must wait for the Supreme Court appeal decision,� said Song. Song feels the defendants know the original ruling wouldn’t be overturned, but are stalling the dolphins’ release to maximise profits. “The Court passed the same sentence in a Court of Appeal on Dec. 13, 2012. Pacific Land is making unfair profits from the dolphins - 2 billion won in entrance fees four to five times per day,� said Song. Conditions at Pacific Land have been described as an “abysmal prison,� by The Dolphin Project. Dr. Rose and Samuel Hong, a dolphin biologist, report that noise is what is most disturbing for dolphins during live shows. “A written opinion sent by Dr. Rose, says the noise level is estimated at 100110 decibels during the show, which is extremely loud for dolphins; 100 decibels is similar to a rock concert and could even cause temporary hearing loss to spectators,� said Song. “The size of the aquarium, the decibel level, and the quality of water are far

short of international standards. It is very disappointing that [Heo and Koh] cling to the position that [the facilities are excellent] and will continue performing the show,� said Song. “Due to being exposed to extreme noise a couple of times per day, there is the possibility that they have already lost some hearing. If it continues, it could... threaten their return to the wild,� Song continued. Noise is not the only factor of concern at Pacific Land. “The extremely small aquarium and poor feeding puts the dolphins under tremendous stress during the show, and one of the remaining dolphins, Haesun, died. The others are also in fear of their lives, with one dolphin’s jaw becoming paralyzed,� Song added. Song says that as the animals are endangered and protected, the government has a duty to protect them. Despite the inaction, Song is determined to see positives in the case. She stated she was “very excited� at the initial ruling to release the animals, but the law is still weak in this area. “The Court’s recommendation for a settlement is an unusual case, as existing animal protection laws and related laws are inadequate - it is difficult to protect [animal] rights,� said Song. Song believes that this only plays into the hands of animal abusers. “Even If Pacific Land does not follow the Court’s recommendation, and continues to perform the show, the present law is not strong enough to suspend the show. Therefore, the Animal Protection Act needs to be amended and I am working with KARA, Green Party Korea and councilors to obtain an injunction to suspend the shows,� she said. Despite the ongoing battle, this is the

first time a Korean court has recognized an animal’s right to life, despite enforcement being weak. Song believes this mirrors wider social changes, but there is a long way to go before the law truly reflects public sentiment. “More people live with pets animals and think we should protect and respect animal life, along with human life. However, Korean law still regards animals as subjects to use, sell and dispose of,� said Song. Pacific Land is only able to profit from shows as members of the public continue to buy tickets and attend; Song says that people should think carefully before supporting such animal cruelty. “In the wild, dolphins swim at 160 km per hour and live to be 40. In the show, however, people only see cute dolphins doing shows and do not know that they end their short lives in poor and cramped cages. There is no law to halt the shows, but before you decide to go, I want you to once more consider animal welfare.� There is clearly a long fight ahead for animal rights defenders and Song is not going to be complacent. “We are working on making the amendment to the Animal Protection Act, which will preserve the right to life [for animals]. I welcome your support and participation,� said Song. **Update: on the day of going to press, March 29, Jeju District Court, in its final ruling, upheld the original sentence and ordered the release of the dolphins. The animals will be sent to Seoul Zoo for rehabilitation before being released into the waters around Jeju.** To support Korea Animal Rights Advocates visit: www.animalrightskorea.org

08 Discover Jeju/Live Jeju

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

“No windows, no clocks, no mirrors� &DVLQR RZQHU UHYHDOV WKH VHFUHWV EHKLQG PDNLQJ \RX IHHO DW HDVH SDUWLQJ ZLWK \RXU FDVK By Darren Southcott

www.jejuweekly.com

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We were led into a back room. The workers and punters gazed at our passing through tense hands of blackjack. The invite had come as a surprise and the questions were requested in advance He was to be referred to as the “The General� and personal issues were to be avoided. The General’s request for anonymity as a casino owner - only confirmed the liminal hinterland in which gambling is placed in Korea. Ill-fame has an allure about it, an allure that is intense, even when you know the games it plays. Casinos, psychologist Kati St. Clair told the BBC, make you feel: “intimate, enclosed, euphoric...womb-like;� a protective mother, willing to forgive you your misdeeds. As you are led in, the clink clink of the machines and the flash flash of the neon entice you, while the smooth felt of the blackjack tables muffle the soft falling of the chips. If you are going to lose money, you may as well do it in style. The world over, casinos have an air of the ne’er do well about them, but in Korea that air is thicker. Articles 246 and 247 of The Criminal Act prohibit gambling, although exemptions are made for public welfare and tourism - this is where the casinos slot in. Despite the draconian laws, Koreans love a gamble. Historian Robert Neff quotes an early traveller to Joseon Korea, who remarked: “Koreans learn the delights and pains of gambling almost from their mother’s milk.� Of course, there are few peoples who don’t like a flutter. Casinos are big business on Jeju. Once catering to Japanese visitors - the economic wave having swung back to type, west to east - punters are now overwhelmingly from the Middle Kingdom. Casinos don’t just sit back, however, waiting for punters to fill the coffers.

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Planning has gone into every detail of the gaming floor. “This is the “sammu� culture of the casino - no windows, no clocks and no mirrors,� said the General, sharing the casino-owners' take on the three absences of Jeju - beggars, thieves and gates. The atmosphere is crafted to make punters enjoy parting with their cash what Roger Thomas, casino designer, calls “an adult playground,� making gamblers “stay longer, feel better, and bet more.� The General is clear where his market lies: “The key word for this century is: China.� The tricks are the same the world over make punters comfortable, put them in a

trance-like state, play music, surround them with familiarity, even pump in pheromones and oxygen to encourage risk-taking behavior, according to some reports. The General, while not employing all these tricks, uses his background - as a psychology major - to reach into the minds of punters, teasing out the risktaker inside. He knows his main market is China and he rolls out the red carpet for them... “...to encourage aggressiveness.�. This may be par for the course for casinos the world over, but the General had more. “There are some features especially for the Chinese mind. The Chinese like gold,

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so many of our fixtures are gold-colored. Casinos in the East also use good-luck charms, such as swords above the table and auspicious symbols around the room. This makes them feel lucky,� he said. “Shamanism is also used in gaming rooms.� The Chinese market seems inexhaustible, but Jeju has competitors: Macau, Singapore, Malaysia, and closer to home, the soon-to-be super city at Incheon. But the General is ahead of the game; he knows a casino that rests on its laurels falls behind. “Some people say the gambling industry will slow down here, but I’m in the leisure and pleasure business. It will continue growing by taking advantage of Jeju’s attractions, which Incheon can never match,� he said. “It doesn’t make sense to directly compete with them, we have more to offer.� He takes us around his casino, inviting us to the VIP room, where he has seen hundreds of thousands of dollars won and lost. He begins to talk about his plans to keep those chips falling where he wants them. To ensure this, the General is taking to the seas, in his yacht; things were getting very 007. By combining the gambling and yachting markets, in addition to the world-class outdoor attractions of Jeju terra firma, he is planning to keep the Chinese coming for years yet. “I am here to provide pleasure to my customers so I must keep up with tourist trends. Tourists want variety and that is what I provide. They gamble at night, but by day they go horseriding, golfing, trekking.� In a parting shot, unfazed by the competition, the General clearly held some truths to be self-evident. “Jeju is not Incheon.�

Festival 09

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

Spring Festivals on Jeju Island The 31st Jeju Canola Flower Festival and The 5th Udo Conch Festival

The 19th Mt. Halla Clean Bracken Festival When: Fri April.19 - Sun April.28 Where: Namwon Yongam seawater pool and in the town When: Fri. April.19 - Sun. April. 21 Opening ceremony: 10 a.m., Sat., April 20 Where: Cheonjin Port, Udo Island Main event: Talent contest, dance festival, haenyeo dance perfomance, fusion music concert Host : Udo Town Hall (for more information call 728-7332) Transportation: By car from Jeju city to Seongsan (50 min, 50 km); from Seogwipo City to Seongsan (70 min, 69km) By bus from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal to Seongsan; from Seogwipo City Intercity Bus Terminal to Seongsan Seongsan to Udo by ferry (15 min) Fare: 2000 won (Adult), 700 won (Children) Ferry schedule from Seongsan (April) : 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00

Main events: Performance with a bracken theme, fusion gugak performance, a ‘Jeju history trip’ book concert with authors, bracken collecting, seafood auction, camelia culture experience, horseriding, food festival Host : Namwon County Festival committee (for more information call 760-4181~2) Transportation : By car from Jeju City bus 97(Beonyong-ro) → bus 1118 (Namjo-ro) → Sumangri (festival) By car from Seogwipo city bus 11(516) → route 1119(Seosung-ro) → Sumangri (festival) By bus from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal (Namjo-ro bus): First bus 6 am, every 20 min (32 km) By bus from Seogwipo Intercity Bus Terminal (Namjo-ro bus): First bus 6.03am, every 20 min (23 km)

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Ferry schedule from Udo (April) : 07:30, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30

The 5th Gapado Green Barley Festival

The 15th Seogwipo Canola Flower International Walking Festival

Main event: walking green barley path, barley marathon, couple cycling competition, cooking seafood bibimbap

When: Fri April 5 - Sun April. 7

When: Sat April 13 - Sun May 5 Where: Gapado Island, Daejung-eup

Host: Gapado Green Barley Festival Committee (for more information call 794-7130, 760-4081~2) Ferry schedule during the festival

Where: Around Sanbangsan, Andeok-myeon (Main Venue : Jeju Sculpture Park Playground) Host : Seogwipo City, Seogwipo, Korea Athletic Promotion Association (for more information, contact 064-760-3320)

Weekday: six times from Moseulpo to Gapado: (9 am, 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm, 5 pm); from Gapado to Moseulpo (9:20 am, 10:20 am, 11:20, 1:20 pm, 3:20 pm, 5:20 pm)

Organizer : Seogwipo Tourism Association

Weekend and holidays: eight times from Moseulpo to Gapado: (9 am, 10 am, 11 am, 12 pm, 1 pm, 2 pm, 3 pm, 5 pm); from Gapado to Moseulpo (9:20 am, 10:20 am, 11:20 am, 12:20 pm, 1:20 pm, 2:20 pm, 3:20 pm, 5:20 pm) Fare: 8,000~10,000 won(Adult), 4,000~5,000 won(Children) For more information call 794-7130

Courses: 5 km, 10 km, 20 km, 30 km etc.(total seven courses)

Expecting Number of Participants: 10,000 people Participation fee: 10,000 won (t-shirts given on a first-come, first-served basis) Sponsors: International Volkssport Verband (IVV), The Korea Walking League (KWL) ● 5HJLVWUDWLRQ E\ ID[ ● 5HJLVWUDWLRQ E\ HPDLO VWD #KDQPDLO QHW ● 2QOLQH 5HJLVWUDWLRQ KWWS FDIH GDXP QHW VHRJZLSR ZDONLQJ

10 Jeju Flavor

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

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By Mary Rager

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Jeju is plagued by chain bakeries offering a variety of less-than-superb snacks and breads. While Paris Baguette, Tous le Jours, E-Mart bakeries and the like offer convenience by being located on every corner, or inside the major supermarkets, they are not the only option for breads, desserts, and treats on Jeju. With the emergence of privately owned, gourmet bakeries like A La Papa and Le Escargot, the dream of having delicious, grain and nut-filled breads, tarts, and snacks is becoming a reality. But, will they last or be lost in the shadows of chain and chaebol bakeries? A La Papa , located in the Shin Jeju neighborhood of Yeon-dong has been up and running for just two years but is already a staple, especially amongst the expat community. Offering a variety of bread loaves including rye and whole grain, as well as bread treats, such as spinach ciabattas, baguettes, and wheat rolls, A La Papa has treasured items that are hard to find in the chain bakeries. They also have a selection of fruit tarts, homemade jams, and gourmet choco-

lates. Order a cup of coffee or tea and you’ll have the perfect treat. Similarly, Le Escargot, located in the Shin Jeju neighborhood of Nohyeongdong, also offers fruit, nut, and grainfilled breads, loaves, pizza squares, and sweet treats. Open for only 10 months, Le Escargot has quickly made the list of expat-approved bakeries. Owned by Kang Tae-won and tasty delicacies provided by the vivacious Chef Ko Young-jun, this bakery’s warm atmosphere makes a great spot to just drop by for your bread needs or to enjoy a coffee and a scrumptious snack. Yet despite all the deliciousness oozing out of these amazing bakeries and their growing popularity, these bakeries face numerous challenges. Neither is located on a main road, next to a popular landmark, or marked with huge signs. Both bakeries are ‘off the beaten path’ and many of their customers have searched them out because word of mouth has spread news about their products. As can be imagined, larger, more prominent locations are more expensive and, put simply, mom-and-pop style bakeries cannot afford the prime locations, the big signs, or fancy advertise-

ments that many of the chain bakeries can. One of the biggest blockades to these privately owned bakeries is the existence, and domination, of chain bakeries – especially those associated with chaebol businesses. “Chaebol� is the term used in Korea to describe a form of business conglomeration that is run by members of the same family. For example, the CEO of Hotel Shilla is the daughter of Samsung Electronics Chairman and the daughter of the Hyundai Motor Group Chairman is an adviser at the Innocean company. These familial ties within and between huge companies, including Lotte and Shinsegae, mean that there is a lot of money available to be ‘played’ with and the concern is that a chaebol family member may decide to open a bakery as a ‘fun hobby’ but with major consequences to the small, mom-and-pop bakeries. One specific example of this is the Fauchon bakery run by Chang Seonyoon, the granddaughter of Lotte Group Chairman, Shin Kyuk-ho. With the help and the support of the Lotte Group, the Fauchon bakery has access to more financial backing, as well as prime locations.

In recent months, the Korean government has applied sanctions to large companies to help promote the small, mom-and-pop businesses. The compulsory closing of stores, such as Lotte Mart and E-Mart, is an attempt by the government to help restore the Korean economy to its booming state and these restrictions are starting to spread beyond large grocery stores and into the bakery sector. Due to growing pressure on chaebol bakeries, such as Fauchon, some corporations have shut down their subsidiary businesses. However, many of the chaebol corporations own, operate, and rake in money from bakeries inside their own stores – a convenient location for shoppers – and are able to use their networks of stores to gain the upper hand in the bakery market. Taking the time to find A La Papa or Le Escargot will not only benefit your taste buds and tummy; your business will support a novelty on the island and a privately-owned business. Ask around, go with a friend, do whatever you have to do to check out these bakeries, but do yourself and your community a favor – go local.

JDC Junior Journalists

The 4th JDC Junior Journalists are ready for action!

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The 4th JDC Junior Journalist program held its opening ceremony and orientation at the JDC Elite Building on March 30. The successful 25 candidates were congratulated by attending parents, English mentors, and JDC employees. According to the program coordinator, the 25 junior journalists were selected from 68 candidates, meaning there were 2.7 applicants for

every place. This shows increased interest in the program, as previously there were 1.9 entrants for every place. This program is one of the JDC’s resident globalization projects, started in 2011. JDC has supported this program to improve the global outlook of middle school students on the island. The JDC Junior Journalist program includes a number of field trips with English-speaking mentors. JDC junior journalists will visit historical, environ-

mental, cultural and industrial sites to cover in their reports. This program is designed to develop their own journalistic perspective over five months. The Junior Journalists improve their English speaking and writings skills by learning about Jeju’s cultural and environmental treasures. The program coordinator said that the 4th JDC Junior Journalists will be involved in beach cleaning activities with international residents on Jeju to promote a clean environment.

Colorful jeju 11

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

News Briefs More international flights out of Jeju

Five new wind-power sites designated

Jeju government to provide aid to East Timor

New, non-stop overseas flight routes are to be added to existing routes, and are expected to attract more and more foreign tourists. According to the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province, there are currently 15 flights from Jeju to China, four from Jeju to Japan, and two from Jeju to Taiwan. New flights are scheduled to be launched between Jeju and some Chinese cities during March. A total of 83 non-stop flights covering 29 different routes will help bring foreign tourists to Jeju. Bus advertising campaigns and government networking plans are also in process to help Jeju’s tourist image. 174 thousand foreign tourists had visited Jeju by the end of February this year, representing 35.7 percent growth compared to the same period last year.

The Wind Power Development Review Committee in Jeju voted to designate Gasi-ri, Gimnyeong, Sanmyeong, and Wolryeong as onshore wind power development sites on Feb. 26th. Eoeum Village on the northwest of Jeju signed a 20-year lease to use privately-owned land for its wind energy development project. The Jeju Special-Self Governing Province is planning to make an official announcement detailing the site names, precise locations, and expected power output by March 21. In addition, Jeju will set up a profit sharing plan alongside the wind power development project that they hope will benefit local businesses. Industry officials anticipate that this project will help maximize any potential profits for residents.

Traditional markets enter the wireless age

JTA and KT sign agreement to lower international call charges for visitors

Delegates from the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province will visit East Timor in June and will complete an aid plan with the East Timor government. Following that, Jeju will contribute medical supplies to the Dili National Hospital, also in East Timor. Back in March 2012, Jeju signed an agreement with the Korea International Cooperation Agency (KOICA), officially launching Jeju’s Overseas Development Aid (ODA) project. At the ceremony, Governor Woo Geunmin said: “We, Jeju Island, have received international aid in the past. As a member of the global community, Jeju has a responsibility to seek out others in need and help them,â€? the governor said. “I realize that international aid should be provided not just at the national level but also at the regional government level ‌ This is only the beginning,â€? he added. Jeju is planning to promote mutual understanding and friendship between Jeju and East Timor in the wake of this development aid project. Korea was until the 1980s a recipient of overseas aid and only became a donor in 1987. KOICA was established in 1991 and is the official state agency providing ODA around the world. When Korea joined the Development Assistance Committee (DAC) in 2010, it became the first nation to graduate from aid recipient to aid donor within the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), which it joined in 1996. For Jeju, long a byword for underdevelopment within Korea, to now be providing ODA to help improve lives in East Timor is another milestone in Korea’s economic success story.

The Jeju Special Self-Governing Province will broaden the availability of free wireless internet services to include small towns, public office buildings, and even traditional markets. A total of 212 million won will be spent to expand free Wi-Fi areas covering markets, public health centers, and welfare facilities for the youth and elderly. Jeju plans to complete the project by this November, which will provide convenience to residents and tourists. The project will continue until 2015. Jeju expects this plan to help reduce mobile charges and lessen the information gap between those with internet and those without. There are currently a total of 5,670 free wireless internet hotspots in Jeju. The administrative office installed free Wi-Fi services in 224 of those spots, while mobile carriers were responsible for the remaining 5,446 zones.

JTA (Jeju Special Self-Governing Provincial Tourism Association) and KT plan to improve services for tourists from overseas. On March 19 at the Jeju Welcome Center, JTA President Kim Yeong-jin signed a contract with KT President Lee Seok-chae to improve international call services on Jeju Island. The business agreement aims to address an era of increasing overseas tourists by offering a range of international call offers to satisfy increased demand. Through this agreement, plans will allow travelers using international calling cards to make calls cheaper than standard roaming rates. The cooperative agreement, though JTA departments, will use KT’s infrastructure and publicity know-how to entice international travelers.

All listed stores are open Monday to Saturday for the extended hours of 22:00 - 24:00

www.jejuweekly.com

Late-night pharmacy opening hours

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Bongbong Hallabong is a famous Jeju product Its protruding top resembles the peak of Mt. Halla So, it is called Hallabong It looks so big and so healthy Its taste is sweet and sour, and very delicious

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12 Calandar

The Jeju Weekly

April 2013

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Jeju Education Meetups

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Exhibitions

The 19th Solo Exhibition by Moon, Chang-Bae, ‘Time - Image’ ‘My Chagall, Your Picasso’ at Jeju Museum of Art

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Jeju Sinyang-ri Haehye Photo Exhibition at Jeju World Natural Heritage Centre

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A Saturday Walk in the Museum

Automobile registration office relocation guidance

Artwork of Chang Ree-Suok at MoA

Recreation

Korean Contemporary Art Special Exhibition

Free Movies at Jeju Movie Culture Art Center

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Seogwipo City Announcements The 2nd Beautiful Seogwipo photo contest $SSO\ EHWZHHQ -XO\ WR -XO\ 7KHPH 8QSXEOLVKHG SKRWRV VKRZLQJ VHRJZLSR FLW\ V ORFDO VFHQHU\ SHRSOH WUDGLWLRQDO FXOWXUDO IHVWLYDOV DQG WKRVH ZKLFK GR QRW KDUP RXU WUDGLWLRQDO FXVWRP 1R UHTXLUHG TXDOLILFDWLRQ 0D[LPXP SLHFHV 6WDQGDUG VL]H ´[ ¾ FRORU RU EODFN DQG ZKLWH 0DNH D QRWH RI WLWOH RI WKH SKRWR \RXU QDPH DGGUHVV SKRQH QXPEHU DQG WKH SODFH WDNHQ RQ WKH EDFN VLGH RI WKH SKRWR 5HFHSWLRQ GHVN 3XEOLF DIIDLUV RIILFH 6HRJZLSR FLW\ -XQJDQJ UR 6HRJZLSR &LW\ $QQRXQFHPHQW WKH ZLQQHU RI DZDUGV $XJXVW ,QGLYLGXDO QRWLFH DQG 6HRZJLSR FLW\ ZHEVLWH SRVWHG )RU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ FDOO

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