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Vol. IV No. 67
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Fire fete Braving the cold, spectators enjoy fireworks and ritual burning of dry grass on Saebyeol Oreum (volcanic cone) near Jeju City, on Feb. 4. For more, turn to pages 4 and 5. Photo by Douglas MacDonald (Flickr.com/photos/dmacs_photos)
IUCN ramps up efforts prior to Jeju WCC Congress preparation focuses on themes to grab your attention By The Jeju Weekly editor@jejuweekly.com
While Jeju is counting down the days until it hosts the World Conservation Congress (WCC), the world’s largest environmental symposium, from Sept. 6 to 12, its organizing body, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), has been utilizing its other conferences to begin discussions that will be continued in Jeju. “We’ve been promoting the Jeju congress since the beginning of 2011 through a wide variety of ways. The intensive campaign started in September last year (one year before the congress) and continues to intensify as we get closer,” said IUCN Director of Global Communications John Kidd in an email interview with The Weekly. For the IUCN its promotion campaign has been focused on the issues, Kidd said, specifically Nature+, the theme of the upcoming convention. According to the IUCN Web site, “Nature+ is about boosting
the resilience of nature — improving how quickly nature and people adapt to change.” In other words, the idea is that the solutions for many of the world’s problems are inextricably connected to our environment. One way the IUCN has been gaining attention for the WCC has been by connecting it to some of their key international events like December’s UN Climate Summit in Durban, South Africa. According to the IUCN Web site, during the summit several governments agreed upon a set of measures (known as The Durban Package) that will ensure climate change actions are in place to keep the global temperature rise lower than 2 degrees. Other key events have included the UN Forest Forum in New York held to launch the “International Year of the Forest,” and the World Heritage Committee Meeting in Paris. Over the past year the IUCN has hosted 11 regional conservation forums in 11 international cities where issues like green growth, biodiversity, and other topics that will be highlighted during the WCC were
discussed. These forums, which took place in Kuwait City, Kuwait; Johannesburg, South Africa; Rabat, Morocco; and eight other cities, also offered IUCN members the opportunity to meet within their local regions and prepare for the Jeju WCC. In the run up to the WCC, the IUCN has planned several large-scale events that will not only promote the congress through the themes discussed but also begin discussions that will be continued during the Jeju congress. In March, there will be the World Water Forum in Marseilles, France; and the World Heritage Committee Meeting in St. Petersburg, Russia; but probably the most important event prior to the WCC will be the UN Sustainable Development Conference (also known as the Rio+20 Conference) held this June. This will be the summit’s 20th anniversary and will be attended by heads of state and other government representatives with the objective of reaffirming governmental commitment to sustainable development as well as discuss new and pressing environmental issues. While the WCC will Continued on page 2
Jeju United aim for ‘3 plenties’ in 2012 season
By Darryl Coote
darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com
On Feb. 1, following two big additions last week to the team’s roster, Jeju United held a photo op at Jeju World Cup Stadium unveiling the island’s 2012 K-League squad that will take to the pitch for their season opener, Continued on page 12
02 Discover Jeju
The Jeju Weekly
INSIDE In Focus
page 6
Father McGlinchey: 60 years spent helping
Opinion
page 7
The World Conservation Congress D-365 event. Photo courtesy Jeju Special Self-Governing Province
Continued from page 1 focus on five themes, the Rio+20 will be tackling “green economy in the context of sustainable development and poverty eradication; and the sustainable framework for
Book Review
pages 8, 9
sustainable development.” The first Earth Summit in June of 1992 is considered by many environmentalists as one of the most important conventions to have occurred since “it was the first time that world
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
leaders came together to discuss environmental issues with a lot of public visibility.” While being attended by some 170 government officials and a total of 17,000 people, they were able to come together and fashion three impressive agreements. Along with the creation of three conventions (one concerning biodiversity, another on climate change, and the third to stop the desertification of forests), the first UN Sustainable Development Conference gave birth to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate, more commonly known as the Kyoto Protocol. “Rio+20,” said Kidd, “is important as it will review the world’s progess 20 years on from the 1992 Earth Summit.” Rio+20 will be the largest environmental event prior to the WCC. Kidd explained that the link between the two events is through their different purposes and objectives. The WCC will be “focusing on how to make things happen on the ground. Jeju is about ‘how’ more than ‘what,’” said Kidd. “We know conservation works when done correctly, and we know it brings huge social and economic benefits. Jeju is about how we take individual successes and make them happen through-out the world.”
What to expect at the island’s five-day markets It’s tough to get the low down on the life, color, and haggling tactics at the stalls By Christian Yetter contributor@jejuweekly.com
New coffee table tome a panoramic treat
Flavors of Jeju
page 11
Beombeok, a simple and healthy snack
www.jejuweekly.com
Seogwipo Spots
page 11
A ‘Fanta’stic show
My Jeju
page 13
‘In a new country, focus on the positive’
History
page 14
Joseon marriage and tears
I went to both the Jeju City and Seogwipo City five-day markets to try to learn about haggling strategies. What I found instead is that, on any given day in the five-day markets, there are three kinds of attendees: the professionals, the dabblers, and the tourists. In the first two categories are the merchants and the buyers. You can always tell who are the professional merchants because they go to both Seogwipo and Jeju five-day markets. Professional buyers show up with lists and sophisticated plans of attack. They attend every week to maximize their grocery shopping potential. Dabbler-merchants run their shops as a side-business. They might own a coffee shop and as a supplement to their main income sell garlic at one of the five-day markets. Their purchasing counterpart sees the market as an activity. Grocery shopping as a ward against boredom. The third category, in which I found myself included, is kind of a special circumstance; I was there but not as a full participant. I may buy something or I might just take cute pictures with the glistening, suffocated fish. The merchants’ responses to me as an onlooker will range anywhere from “Hey, an easy mark!” to “You’re not going to buy, stop standing in front of my stall and taking up space.” In every scenario, the merchants will want to talk to you to get your attention. However, there is exactly one scenario where people will not want to talk to you, that is when you need to interview them so you can write an article for The Jeju Weekly. In the relatively open main paths it’s all but hopeless. People will literally run away from you. You have to lurk in the capillary pathways and corner them in ambush. It’s interview-by-mugging. But even that’s not foolproof. It’s not that I am such an intimidating force — my translator was bubbly, pleasant, had none of my threatening facial hair, and was
Jeju City Five-Day Market. Photo by Kim Gyong Ho
in fact female. We tried different permutations — I approached; she approached with me; she approached while I hid. The only real change in effectiveness was when we were both present, and that was only because we could wedge them in. There were only two customers who talked to us the entire day: one was a grinning guy just inside the maw of the Seogwipo Five-Day Market. His haggling technique: “Hey, oemma [mom]! Hey, come on, I need a discount. Pleeeeaaase, oemma?” A big smile is the key he says, and shows me his. Call the merchant mom, he says. The other was a family. We caught up with them not 10 seconds after they’d finished making a purchase. The father said his strategy was foolproof for knocking a thousand won off every purchase. “Take your kids with you, and tell [the merchant] that you need to have money so you can buy your children a snack.” The merchant they’d just left pretended not to hear this. In the back of the mega-tent of the Seogwipo Five-Day Market, past the constellations of light bulbs hanging from their clutter of exposed wires, Kwon Kyeong Min sat in front of her great big closet of
random housewares. “The most effective technique,” she intimates, “is when people just throw money at you and take the stuff.” It seems more like robbery than haggling, and you can see that kind of bewildered gambit working on someone as seemingly soft-spoken as Kwon. To other vendors, including Kim Dae Hyeon, a slightly boastful cabbage vendor, to a savvy-looking red pepper paste mixer, haggling is a courtesy first and foremost. Kim says he’ll give a discount if you’re polite (asking for too much of a discount is impolite, he says). “If the person wants too much of a discount I say ‘Okay, you grow it yourself then!’” he says with an inflated chest. Yi Yeon Hwan, a stern middle-aged clothing vendor with an almost predatory gait says older people still think it’s necessary to get a discount however small. I’d still recommend haggling if you go to the markets — and you should go. But go with a shopping list, not an interview pad — and if you’d like to try Kwon’s money barrage “haggling” tactic, please let me know how it goes. I wanted to, I just didn’t have the heart. (Interpretation by Lim Hyun Jeong)
Culture 03
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
A ‘mutant’ village to stir the imagination ‘I want artists to come here, feel happy, and enjoy creating something new,’ says founder
Artist Gwon Yul’s rendition of what one of the buildings in Mutant Village may look like when the park is completed. Photo courtesy Gwon Yul
By Darryl Coote
darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com
Artist Gwon Yul has a simple, yet ambitious dream. Three years ago he came up with the idea to create a village for artists like him where they can live together, work, and earn money from their crafts: An artist safe haven that doubles as a tourist destination. “It is not a big idea,” said Gwon, 47, from his home in Wasan, Jeju City to The Weekly. “I am trying to find a way for
artists … where they can get together in one place, where they could make their art and make money.” Inhabiting a large plot of land in Wasan is the halted beginnings of his dream. A giant hollow shoe, a massive wood and plaster pig, a tea pot-shaped house, and a half dozen or so other surreal unfinished buildings is the start of Mutant Village. Construction of this artists village stopped five months ago when money ran out said Gwon, and what now exists is a unique theme park waiting to be completed and then inhabited by 200 artists. This is the second time he had to stop
construction because of a lack of money, which has been a constant problem; “The difficulty is money,” Gwon said. Since Mutant Village ceased being built five months ago, Gwon has been making furniture to raise funds. “By the Spring I hope to have [60 million won, approx. US$54,000] and the construction will not stop [again].” Currently, Gwon says that the village is about 30 percent complete and he plans to make around 300 buildings (an artist residence, guest houses, shops, and galleries), at a cost of 10 million to 20 million won each. Gwon plans to invest the 60 million won in creating education programs for company retreats, to host festivals in the village, and to begin selling crafts, accessories, and food. When his programs begin, the village will be open to the public and he believes there will be a steady flow of revenue that will then go towards finishing the village. Talking to Gwon about his vision for Mutant Village it becomes clear that it embodies many of the themes that are present in his paintings and other, smaller art works. “I like this land,” he said referring to the world that man has created, “but sometimes I can’t like this land” due to politics, bureaucracy, and other inequalities. “So, I make other lands,” he said. For his paintings, Gwon said, with some of them having been exhibited in several countries, “I imagine the earth 5 billion years ago, so I create all these creatures,
objects with my imagination and paint them.” For Gwon art is about putting into being what only exists in one’s imagination. This is exactly what Mutant Village is; a re-imagining of the world around us. The term mutant for Gwon comes from the controversial book “Mutant Message Down Under” by Marlo Morgan where she says that the Aborigines from Australia refer to “civilized” people as being mutants “because we are building all these skyscrapers and have a different lifestyle that our ancestors never had,” Gwon said. “So its a place to display mutantism ideas, mutant architecture styles to the public,” Gwon said, stressing that it is a reappropriation of the word since all his buildings will be constructed with environment-friendly materials. Intellectualizing aside, the reason Gwon is constructing these odd buildings is rather simple. “It is something unique that people never thought of,” he said, continuing that artists are “curious creatures” and desire to see what the affect will be when combining different ideas and materials. “I image a pig,” he said, “and I make it and if the artwork goes the way I expected, it’s very enjoyable.” Ultimately though, Gwon wants “artists, like sculptors, painters, architects to come here, feel happy, and enjoy the atmosphere of creating something new.” Also, while making a living in the process. (Interpretation by Angela Kim)
Local village rituals aim to appease island gods Intangible cultural assets ring in the Lunar New Year www.jejuweekly.com
By Angela Kim angelakim@jejuweekly.com
Between Jan. 13 and 14, following the lunar calendar (Feb. 4 and 5 on the solar calendar), village rites (maeulje in Korean) are held all over Jeju. While all of the island’s village rituals share the common background of shamanism, they can be broadly categorized into two religious processes: Confucianism, where the ritual is performed by the village’s men, and shamanisim, with the ritual being organized by women and conducted by a shaman. On April 10, 1986, the Jeju Special SelfGoverning Province chose village rites from Songdang-ri and Nabeup-ri, Jeju City, to be preserved as the island’s representative cultural assets due to their distinct characteristics. The Songdang-ri rite was held from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Dangoreum in Songdangri on Feb. 4. Before the ceremony began, older women brought offerings of food and drink to a stone altar. This shamanistic ceremony is devoted to Baekjutto, an agriculture goddess and also the mother of many of Jeju’s gods, “to ask the grandmother to look after us,” said Kim Ho
Jong, a former village chief. “For about a week or so, villagers devote their time to prepare their minds for the ceremony. During that time, they are not allowed to eat pork or beef. Also, they try to avoid attending funerals,” said Kim Yang Su, the village chief of Songdang-ri. “This New Year’s ritual is the largest of the four ceremonies that the village performs throughout the year. Yet, there are many people who do not know about the process of the ceremony,” he said. After the offerings, a designated shaman reads the names and ages of those in attendance as well as the names of their families. “It’s like attendance at school, telling the grandmother [Baekjutto] so and so has come to meet her today,” Kim Ho Jong, the village advisor, explained. Shortly after, the shaman communicated with the goddess and delivered the villagers’ messages and wishes. Like many rituals on Jeju, dancing followed. “I come here every year with my daughter to ask for the safety of my family and for their health, and to prevent misfortune,” said Songdang-ri villager Won Young Kyung. During the ceremony, buckwheat noodle soup was provided to attendees who are
A shaman performs a Lunar New Year ritual for the village of Songdang-ri, Jeju City, on Feb. 4. Mothers and grandmothers prepare offerings with wishes for the gods to protect their family members. Photo by Angela Kim
free to come and go at anytime during the six-hour ritual. Unlike the ritual at Songdang-ri, the Nabeup-ri village rite follows Confucian practices and takes on a completely different form. Held at midnight on Jan. 14 of the lunar calendar (Feb. 5 on the solar calendar), the ceremony was in honor of three gods: Toshin (the god of soil), who protects the village; Poshin, who can inflict harm upon
the village, and Seoshin (the god of the west and measles). Three days before the ritual, the 12 men who will participate in the rite gather in Geomsan Park, located behind Nabeup Elementary School, where the ceremony is held. During this period they are not allowed to eat horse meat or dog meat, and are prohibited from attending funerals as it is against custom for them to Continued on page 7
04 Festivals
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
15th Jeju Fire Festival lights up the sky www.jejuweekly.com
Burning away the bad and welcoming a hopeful spring By Jenna Houts and Adam Montgomery Photos by Douglas MacDonald contributor@jejuweekly.com
The 15th Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival took place on Feb. 3 and 4 at Saebyeol Oreum, Jeju City. Due to extreme weather conditions on Feb. 2, the planned three-day event was cut short, but despite the cold, the final day of festivities were impressive to say the least. Traditionally, the Fire Festival is held on the first full moon of the Lunar New Year to commemorate the ancient agricultural practice of setting fire to farm fields in the winter, readying them for the spring, by clearing them of dead grass and potentially harmful insects. Over the years, the festival has expanded and is now an annual Jeju cultural staple drawing thousands. The 300,000 square meters of Saebyeol Oreum, located north of the Seogwipo border on the west side of the island, is barren except for native grass, and is a stark and prime backdrop for the festival’s closing ceremony. The atmosphere was energetic and addictive. The midway, crowded with people and filled with good food stalls and vendors, ran to the base of the oreum where
there was a main stage which hosted many performances by dancers, singers, and musicians. Even a dance group from Jeju’s sister city, Santa Rosa, California, came to support the event. Next to the stage, visitors flocked to write down their wishes and prayers for the upcoming year, which were then attached to numerous hay bales and the large moon house, a sphere made of hay and straw ropes and served as the oreum’s centerpiece. As the day progressed and visitors braved the cold, crowds began to gather in anticipation of the final event. Throngs of brightly costumed drummers began to parade around the festival grounds and set the mood with rhythmic beats. Bamboo torches were passed out to locals and foreigners alike who paraded towards the oreum and formed a line at its base and prepared to light the hill on fire as thousands waited and watched. After the sun set, a countdown ensued, fireworks exploded at the top of the oreum, and the torchbearers rushed forward and lit the hay bales. The hay bales, the moon house, and the wishes attached to them went up in flames representing the burning away of bad luck from the previous year and clearing of paths for good luck in the year to come.
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
The Jeju Weekly
Festivals 05
06 In Focus
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
‘There’s no better way to help somebody than to create a job’ Father Patrick James McGlinchey has spent nearly 60 years bettering the lives of Jeju people
Father McGlinchey is part of Jeju’s living history. Photo by Angela Kim
By Angela Kim
www.jejuweekly.com
angelakim@jejuweekly.com
When Father Patrick James McGlinchey, founder of Saint Isdore Farm in Jeju City, first came to Jeju from Ireland in April of 1953, the war was still being fought on the mainland. He vividly remembers Jeju when he arrived. “You cannot imagine what Jeju was like in the ’50s and the ’60s,” he told The Weekly at his home in Geumak village on Jan. 6. “It was pathetic. People were committing suicide everywhere, [especially] young people.” Father McGlinchey, who is now 83, was first sent to Hallim, Jeju City, to build a church. His only mission was to build a house of God and to preach, but he could not stand by while he witnessed the desperate living conditions of the Jeju people. “People were very poor, but I was welcomed. People brought me eggs, vegetables … when they didn’t have enough to eat,” he said. With his experience back in Ireland, he knew he could help the people of Jeju
develop livestock industry techniques. His father was a veterinarian, so he recognized that Jeju’s traditional methods of raising pigs were not only inefficient, but also unhygienic. He started to go around the village to try and persuade farmers to adopt a new way of farming. But no one would listen. “I was just a stupid foreigner,” he said jokingly. By 1957 he had established the first 4-H club on Jeju. One of this international youth organization’s principles is to “learn by doing.” In order to persuade the Jeju people that new farming techniques were valuable, he went to the mainland to buy a Yorkshire pig, which matures faster than a Jeju traditional black pig. He then brought it to Hallim and built a little pig house in front of the church. The sow soon produced 10 little white piglets. No one in Hallim had ever seen white piglets before and Father McGlinchey became famous. There was no TV, no movie theatre on Jeju then and the white piglets were the center of attention for the village children. He made contracts with young students and gave each a pig. The contract stated that the pig should be raised separately
from the toilet area (traditionally Jeju black pigs were fed human waste) and should be fed well. And when the pig produces piglets, the students could keep all but two, which would be given back to the church. But it did not go as planned, he said. He didn’t yet have a deep understanding of Korean culture, and the parents, who hold great power over their children, sold most of the pigs. “I wouldn’t have made the contracts with the kids. I would have tried to persuade parents more directly. That was ignorance on my part,” the Father said. So, he had to think of other ways to help the people of Jeju. In 1962, he set up the island’s first credit union in Hallim to aid villagers who without collateral had no way to borrow money. He is still proud of the fact that his work has led to the establishment of 26 credit unions all over the island. As time went on, the Father’s contributions to Jeju society continued. When he first started Saint Isdore Farm as a clergyman in 1959, he naturally had no money and built the farm from scratch. It was “very small and slow,” he said. With the help of volunteers, he managed to build a stone office building. “By the ’60s there were an awful lot of widows living in the country side. Old people living alone. Very, very poor,” he recalled. One day, he came across a destitute old lady. “We took her into the office. Next day, she brought a friend.” Soon Saint Isdore Farm started to take in these old ladies and gave them shelter. They ran out of space, so they built another building, which also filled up. Finally, Father McGlinchey asked the Columban Sisters in Ireland for help. Three Sisters came to Jeju, and the Isdore Nursing Home was established in 1984. Employment was also soon on his radar. When a 16-year-old girl from Hallim went to find work in Busan and came back in an ash box three months later, he was “very shocked” and “very angry.” He realized that “there’s no better way to help some-
body than to create a job.” “On that principle, we operated here. It was difficult, [but] it saved lives.” Father McGlinchey invited Sisters from Ireland to teach Jeju women to knit. He purchased sheep for wool and started a fabric factory in Hallim, called Hallim Sujik. Yarn was made by hand with looms. The Sisters taught young women and girls to knit sweaters. Soon, their hand-knitted high-quality sweaters and blankets became well-known in Seoul. The factory hired up to 1,300 people, including those working from home. Reflecting on his life’s work, the Father said there are few things that he wished he had done differently. “I would have not have put myself in the position of directly hiring people, paying wages to people as a foreigner. I would’ve spent more effort getting volunteers,” he said elaborating that Saint Isdore Farm’s best work came from overseas volunteers. Due to his age he recently stepped down as head of Saint Isdore Farm, but he still has many concerns about the island. Jeju has seen significant economic development over the past 60 years, but the Father believes that this has caused the degradation of the island’s society. “People then were more concerned with one another than now. People are more selfish now than then. Children were more respectful to elders,” he laments. He also worries that “there are far too many swindlers who cause more pain, loss, and stress to their fellow human beings, in societies, not only in Korea but all over the world.” He emphasized honesty and transparency for anyone who wants to start a business on Jeju. Father McGlinchey’s contributions to Jeju have been recognized with various awards, including the Ramon Magsaysay Award in 1975 (for transformative leadership in Asia), and the Jeju Culture Prize in 2002. Looking back at his achievements, from the factory, the nursing home, the hospice, to the clinic, he humbly summed up his legacy and work as being all “for [the] people on Jeju who needed help.”
Celebrating spring at the Tamna Ipchun Gut Nori By Angela Kim angelakim@jejuweekly.com
Beginning with a prayer ritual on Feb. 3 at 5:30 p.m., Tamna Ipchun Gut Nori, a Jeju traditional shamanistic rite celebrating the beginning of spring, kicked off a two-day event. It was hosted by Jeju City and organized by The Korean People’s Artist Federation in Jeju. Following the lunar calendar, Feb. 4 marks the beginning of spring. This year it fell on a Saturday. According to mythology, on this day
some 18,000 gods and goddesses return to Jeju from their vacation, called Singugan, and resume work. The people take this opportunity not just to celebrate the coming of spring, but to also pray to the gods for a good harvest and for the safety of family and friends. Traditionally, the eve of Feb. 4 begins with a prayer ritual and a street parade in which participants chase a life-size wooden cow called a nangswe that represents abundance through the streets. This is followed by daedongnori (farmers’ entertainment), which includes impromp-
Photo by Angela Kim
tu plays, poetry recitals, dancing, and singing. For the opening street parade on the eve of the first day of spring, a total of 24 Korean traditional percussion bands,
called pungmul, gathered to perform music through the streets of Jeju City. “It was cool. I’ve seen samulnori [a form of Korean traditional music consisting of Continued on page 12
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Opinion 07
‘I came, I taught, I changed’
Language Friends Jeju volunteers celebrate a job well done helping Kok Chan students. Front row, from left: Irene, Panda, Harry, Nit, Mey. Second row: Jessie, Kim & Ronnie, Ha-Ram, Ginnie (Language Friends Director), Bama. Third Row: Yeong, Ian, Chhoeung, Kevin, Viram, Tae-Seok. Photo courtesy SCI
By Kenneth McLeod contributor@jejuweekly.com
Since 2011, a local English academy has been sponsoring a small, rural elementary school in Cambodia — Kok Chan Primary School. The following is the second and last first-hand report by academy owner Ken McLeod. It has been lightly edited — Ed.
Editorial illustrator Stephen Krohn is from Tucson, Arizona where he earned a BFA from the University of Arizona in painting and drawing. After university, he joined the Peace Corps and headed off to Chittagong, Bangladesh for two years. He has been living on Jeju for the past three years pursuing many of his passions, including hiking, the outdoors, and bird watching.
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Continued from page 3 see a dead body. Also, to prevent misfortune, no one other than the selected 12 men, who must stay there for the entire duration, is allowed to enter the ceremony grounds until the ritual actually begins. Lead by the village chief, the ceremony is very structured and more rigid than the Songdang-ri rite. Beef, vegetables, and fish are specifically arranged on a table, and the ritual begins with
everyone bowing four times, then the pouring and offering of drinks to the gods, more bowing, and then finally the recital of a prayer that has been written on white paper. The ritual comes to a close with the burning of the white paper. While the two types of rites have very distinct characteristics, Jeju villagers believe that these ceremonies foster bonding between neighbors.
I recently wrote an article about taking Jeju elementary, middle, high school, and university students to Cambodia and some of their experiences. I thought I might follow-up with a few thoughts about teaching in Asia. Over my 10 years in Korea, and another year at a university in China, I’ve absorbed and observed the ups and downs of the experiences of foreign teachers, our relationships with students, and the driving desire for success from Korean parents. This recently led me to rewrite my teaching philosophy and practices to train my teaching staff, and wow! I got a bloody nose running into the labyrinth of emotions and debates that encapsulate teaching in Asia. Teachers and “experts” preach best methods, and new technology, to help learners. Students (unrealistically) believe they will go to Korea University. Korean parents are complex, education consumers to ensure a good future for their children. At the core of the discussion about education is a real hotbed of emotions. What if we include the students’ desires and wants and needs, let alone their real abilities, in the equation? I think it changes everything. From humanistic or constructivist approaches to ESL education, we acknowledge the importance of the children’s thoughts and desires in the former, and that students are individuals trying to make sense of what’s going on in the world in the latter. In this philosophy we become student-centered in our approaches to teaching. Nowhere have I seen this to be more evident than when we taught the children in Cambodia! As our Korean students taught the English program in the classroom, we had countless kids peering in through the bars of the window trying to take in the lesson. Ironic that the system there shuts out children trying to learn, and we have to shut them inside here. The Cambodian children were motivated by an innate desire to learn, and then to use what they had acquired. “Hello! My name is Cya. I’m 13 years old. How are you?” a child yelled out with a huge grin. Our Korean students loved the experience. Hard to teach? Yes, of course, but so rewarding for them, and I saw this time and time again through our week there. I have to share what a parent told me after we got back to Korea. “My daughter is different now. She’s changed. She doesn’t talk about seeing Angkor Wat, she talks about the children at Kok Chan and meeting the wonderful Cambodian people!” The mother observed that positive changes are possible when we focus on what is important to the child. The student begins to be self-aware about the possibilities of learning. Of course our program was centered on her daughter’s English development, and yes, she had a lot of writing and homework. But what struck me though, was that she had become motivated to learn and is a happier person because of the experience. I believe she has a better chance than others to be happy in life now because she realizes she has a choice to pursue her passions; whatever they may turn out to be. Why can’t we bring this into the classroom? In Sir Ken Robinson’s words, “We must create the circumstances where children can learn for themselves what their passions are.” When a child discovers they have a passion for something, this can ignite their desire to learn. They will be the best students because of it. As for myself, my passions are being realized through helping students find theirs. I came, I taught, and I have definitely changed.
08 Book Review
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
www.jejuweekly.com
New Korean National Parks photo book a picturesque treat Douglas MacDonald says this coffee table tome inspires him ‘to get outside and photograph more of these beautiful places’ By Douglas MacDonald contributor@jejuweekly.com
Dawn breaks over Gongnyongneungseon Ridge (Dinosaur Ridge) in Seoraksan National Park, revealing endless layers of mountains capped by majestic, knife-shaped peaks surrounded by fog. A jaw-dropping image of one of Korea’s most famous parks and a view I’m familiar with, having visited the park in the northeast of the Korean peninsula last fall. I flip the page and I am met by an equally stunning shot of the park, this time in winter at nearby Yongajangseong Ridge (Dragon’s Teeth Ridge). Mounds of snow cover a massive tree, a line of jagged rocks topped with rolling fog providing a distant backdrop. As if the first photo wasn’t enough, just two pages later I see another incredible view of a mist-covered Gongnyongneungseon Ridge (also
featured on the cover), sunlight mixing with clearing fog creating an almost otherworldly effect. It’s an impressive start to “Top 100 Natural Wonders of Korean National Parks,” a large and heavy coffee table photo book by the Korea National Parks Service. This 200-page behemoth, which is divided into five chapters (Northern, Southern, and Central Baekdudaegan Range, Marine and Coastal Parks, and National Parks in Urban Areas), is filled with remarkable photos of some of the nation’s most scenic landscapes. Each chapter begins with a quick summary of the highlighted national park and pictures are captioned throughout with interesting and relevant information. But, it’s the photos that steal the show, in particular the double-page panoramas of Korea’s many mountainous vistas. Seoraksan’s Ulsanbawi Rock towers over a forest lit with wild fall colors, a light dusting of snow on
its peaks. A sparkling, silver river snakes through a narrow valley crammed between a mountainous landscape in the cold, early morning light in Jirisan National Park, which is in the southern part of the peninsula. Jeju’s own Baeknokdam Crater provides us with a dizzying view high atop Mt. Halla, with its trees and rocky ridges covered in snow and illuminated by the pinkish glow of sunrise. Motivated by the great works of art displayed in this book, I recently embarked on my own journey up South Korea’s highest peak (1,950 meters) right here on Jeju Island. Trekking at dawn along the 9.5 km Seongpanak trail on the eastern side of Mt. Halla, excitement turned to trepidation as I was met with severe weather conditions: very cold temperatures, fog, and blowing snow which caused an almost total whiteout as I approached the summit. I nearly turned back but braved the worst of it and was rewarded with
clearing skies and fantastic early morning light at the top. As the mist began to lift I was able to take a series of landscapes that show off the mountain’s incredible winter beauty. I find myself returning to the book again and again to look at its images, inspiring me to visit and photograph more of these beautiful places. It is a wonderful testament to Korea’s incredible natural beauty. What more could you ask for in a photo book?
Book Review 09
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Dawn on Dragon’s Teeth Ridge, Hallasan National Park. Photo by Kim Bong Sun. Courtesy Korea National Parks Service
Far left, the power of the seasons. Mt. Sobaek. Photo by Cho Gi Yong. Left, Mt. Seorak’s Dinosaur Ridge. Photo by Ahn Chung Ho. Courtesy Korea National Parks Service
With 10 years on Jeju, reviewer Douglas MacDonald shares a few of his own photos of Hallasan National Park. 1
2
3
1) Early morning light shines on the rocky backbone of Baeknokdam Crater on the Seongpanak trail. 2) Clearing fog over Gwaneumsa Valley. 3) Afternoon sunshine bathes the rocky pillars of Baeknokdam Crater at the top of Mt. Halla. Photos by Douglas MacDonald
10 JDC Education Update
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
NLCS Jeju’s first semester exceeds expectations ‘I think the education is really special,’ says one student of the extra curricular activities, classroom learning By Darryl Coote
www.jejuweekly.com
darrylcoote@jejuweekly.com
The long journey for the North London Collegiate School (NLCS) to open the first branch institution within the Jeju Global Education City began on March 26, 2010, with the signing of a memorandum of agreement with the Jeju Free International City Development Center. Now, with the school in its second semester, Principal Peter Daly is reflecting on NLCS Jeju’s first few months and says that its success has been “beyond expectations.” The first semester “was very very successful,” Daly told The Weekly last week from a meeting room in the NLCS Jeju campus. “We settled in much much quicker than we though we would [and the] student’s got used to the boarding life very very quickly.” Though the school was new and composed of mainly Korean students unaccustomed to Western teaching methods, the first semester all but avoided the anticipated growing pains. “Everybody got used to everyone else in what are very challenging circumstances really: a brand new school; 437 new students, many of them never come into an international school before; 65 teachers, many of them never have been in Korea.” But it’s working. “I knew this would be a challenge ... and if I could look back a year ago and think where we are now, like the parents, I’m ecstatic.” Daly said that both the faculty and the students and their families have been “accommodating each others needs and wants and requirements,” respectful of the differences in culture, and that though the teaching style may at first be foreign to the students, they have shown their teachers trust and understanding. This bridge was made possible because NLCS Jeju is not simply a school that churns out good grades but encourages its students to experience aspects of themselves that they may not have otherwise discovered. Daly said that by the time they graduate he wants his students “to have tried themselves out.” One of the emphases at NLCS Jeju is for the students to take responsibility of their own education, inside and outside of the classroom. Like most schools they offer extra curricular activities, but based on the enthusiasm of its students and staff, what started off as 30 different programs comprised of sport, art, and nature outings has ballooned to around a hundred. There’s taekwondo, all sorts of dance, music, theatre, SCUBA diving, robotics, even polo, utilizing all of Jeju as a living classroom. But the extra curricular activities are not only to improve their skills and widen their set of interests and experiences but also to help instill within the students a sense of community and a responsibility towards our fellow man through community service at the local orphanage, old people’s homes, and hospices. “Not all but some [of our students are quite privileged] and they have to
NLCS Jeju Principal Peter Daly wants his students “to have tried themselves out” by the time they graduate from his school. Photo courtesy NLCS Jeju
understand that with privilege comes the responsibility and the requirement to give back to others who aren’t so well off, and that’s part of the learning,” said Daly. Last December the elementary students held a hot chocolate and cookie drive and raised over 450,000 won to buy Christmas toys, games, and other useful items for a local orphanage. They wrapped the gifts and then delivered them to the children. “The orphanage is quite an eye opener to them,” said Daly. From community service to all the other extra curricular activities the students do, Daly says it is “creating independence, skills, [and gives the students] a sense of
Along with experiencing some of the Bard’s work through performance they are being offered the rare opportunity to “acknowledge the understanding of theatre in London and how big it is and how big of an issue it is,” said Daly. Though very impressive, what Daly has on the docket for next year trumps most overseas trips imaginable. “Looking forward, we’ve got an American trip planned” to coincide with the US presidential election. “We’ve got a group of students following the Obama campaign ... They will be on the campaign trail so they’ll be following them around and seeing some of the things that he does but mostly
performed at several music nights. Also, Lee had previously attended a boarding school in the UK, and his parents were only able to visit him twice a year. Now they visit “like twice a month,” Lee said. “They sometimes just visit in the middle of school days.” Ultimately, Daly has several goals for his school and its students. By the end of NLCS Jeju’s first school year he wants his students to look back and question “‘what have I learned? What have I become? Have I become a person that is more reflective about myself, if I’ve become a person who has actually achieved some aims and ambitions that maybe [I] didn’t
I knew this would be a challenge ... if I could look back a year ago and think where we are now, like the parents, I'm ecstatic their own identity the fact that they are achieving in something they probably didn’t even know they could do. I think they are actually finding talents and skills they weren’t aware that they had.” On the success of the first semester, Daly looks to continue improving the school. “One of the things that will slightly change is that we have got a number of overseas trips … planned,” he said. During the second semester NLCS Jeju students will have the opportunity to visit England, China, and Vietnam. Senior students, who have been studying Shakespeare as part of their English course, will visit Stratford and London for what is being called “10 plays in 10 days.”
working from the central office.” And it’s not just the NLCS Jeju principal who is excited by the school, but the students as well. Alexis Im, 15, said, “I think the education is really special. It requires a lot of creativity and also the art teacher encourages [us] a lot [saying] ‘You are an artist so be creative, don’t fear.’” “I think [the teachers] are more personal,” she said. “It feels like it is learning alone in the class because the teacher pays attention to every single person.” For David Lee, 17, NLCS Jeju has encouraged him to form a rock band which, according to some of his fellow classmates, has made him famous having
realize [I] had.” For Daly, he wants to see his students challenged and intellectually courageous. He wants them to make lasting relationships with fellow students and to endeavour outside of their comfort zones. “I want to see students at the end who are smiling and happy and who are contented,” said Daly.
Facebook.com/NLCS.Jeju Twitter.com/#!/NLCSJeju1 Flickr.com/photos/nlcsjeju Youtube.com/user/NLCSJejuvideo
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Seogwipo Spots / Flavors of Jeju 11
Catch a ‘Fanta’stic show in Seogwipo The beauty of Korean music delivered in a non-verbal performance By Kim Jung Lim supuleit@jejuweekly.com
Having opened early last month at the Sound Island Museum, in the Jungmun Tourist Complex in Seogwipo City, the non-verbal musical “Fanta-Stick” is a family-orientated performance that re-imagines traditional Korean and percussion music. Hahm Ju Hee, a manager at HEARA Inc., the company which developed the performance, explained that Director Jee Yun Sung, a former percussionist actor, came up with the idea to promote the beauty of Korean music to non-Koreans while travelling abroad. Because the show is aimed at nonKorean audiences, it was decided that a non-verbal performance would be appropriate. When there is dialogue though, it is translated. For example, occasionally during the performance a synopsis is projected onto a screen in several languages including English, Chinese, and Japanese. Revolving around the story of a loving couple who are forced apart only to reunite long after, the live Korean traditional music, percussion performances, and even break dancing and beat boxing are mixed in harmony to tell this tale. The various kinds of performance and the constantly changing atmosphere made the hall uproarious throughout the entire musical. As for the Korean instruments on stage, including a gayageum (12-stringed Korean
Recipe
“Fanta-Stick” combines traditional Korean and percussion music with various types of modern performance to create a memorable show. Photo courtesy HEARA Inc.
zither), a geomungo (six-stringed Korean zither), a haegeum (two-stringed Korean zither), and a sogeum (a wooden flute) are all mobilized. Also, small and large drums are used, sometimes to excite the audience and sometimes to enhance the tension of the story. Lee Roon Da, the director in charge of training the actors in percussion and rhythm, told The Weekly that it was difficult to cast Korean music majors so they chose actors and gave them two to three months of percussion training. He
added, “At first, almost everyone didn’t know even the basic skills.” That remark was surprising because the people on stage look very professional. For his favorite scene, when the two lovers finally reunite, he talked of how wonderful the moment is when the entire cast utilize all of the instruments to create a beautiful, harmonized melody. Lee Hyun Joo, a woman in the audience who came to Jeju on holiday with her husband and two daughters, brought a coupon from their Jungmun hotel.
“Because it is a musical performance, we could enjoy it with the kids,” she said. “I liked the frantic and noisy atmosphere.” Charles, another member of the audience visiting Jeju on holiday, said, “It was a great show. I was very impressed. I want to go see more shows like it.” The permanent show, which is supervised by JST Inc., is held every Tuesday to Sunday at 8 p.m. Tickets cost 50,000 won (R seats) and 40,000 won (S seats). Jeju islanders with ID receive a 50 percent discount.
From a simple recipe comes a great snack
www.jejuweekly.com
Beombeok: Jeju traditional buckwheat and sweet potato mash Recipe
By Kim Jung Lim supuleit@jejuweekly.com
Beombeok is a Korean dish comprised of various ingredients like red beans, pumpkin, and corn mixed with grains. It was once a sought-after snack among wealthy families in ancient Korea, but for the average citizen it was more of a meal. According to Jeju traditional food expert Yang Yong Jin, Jeju beombeok can be made with radish, pumpkin, seaweed, and other similar ingredients. Yang says that though Jeju is known
1. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into pieces. 2. Put the sweet potatoes, water, and salt in a pot and boil for about 15 minutes until the sweet potatoes are completely cooked. 3. Turn down the heat and add the buckwheat powder to the pot. Stir the powder and the sweet potato pieces for two or three minutes until it is thoroughly mixed. for its unforgiving agricultural environment, buckwheat grows well on the island. It matures in less than 100 days so it can be planted in late autumn and harvested before winter, avoiding typhoon and frost damage. This is why buckwheat has traditionally been a common grain on Jeju. Buckwheat, with a high protein content and lots of carbohydrates from the sweet potato, was also treated as an emergency food source during the leaner winter months on Jeju. The only problem with buckwheat was that it was hard to refine so tradi-
tionally the people ground the grain with the husk, resulting in a more bitter taste. To improve the flavor of buckwheat dishes, people would add sweet potato. This became a fan favorite among the people of Jeju. And now you, too, can enjoy this sweet, traditional snack.
Ingredients (serves 2 to 3) 3 or 4 sweet potatoes buckwheat powder (200ml) water (300ml) 1 teaspoon salt
Notes
There is a saying in Jeju that goes, “Buckwheat, once you hold it in your arms, it is enough to be cooked.” You don’t need to cook the dish for long after the buckwheat powder has been added. The amount of water depends on your taste. With the recipe above, a cake-like beombeok is made but if you desire a kind of porridge, just add more water.
12 Sports
The Jeju Weekly
Jeju United aim for ‘3 plenties’ in 2012 season Head coach Park Kyung Hoon hopes to perfect team to be as ‘strong as rock, swift as wind, and as beautiful as a woman’
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Jeju Olle walking course 7-1
www.jejuweekly.com
The 2012 Jeju United squad. Photo by Angela Kim
Continued from page 1 March 3 against Incheon United. This will be an important and trying year for the Orange. Along with needing to produce consistent play to lift them from last year’s disappointing ninth-place finish (one spot short of a playoff birth), they will also have to adjust to the new K-league ranking system which will drop the bottom two teams to the second tier league at the end of the season. Due to last year’s game rigging scandal, the league’s format has been changed, and though, hopefully forcing players to excel, this puts an added strain on the coaches. “I’m sure all the coaches, including myself, are feeling the pressure due to the new system in the K-League,” Jeju United Head Coach Park Kyung Hoon said to The Weekly after posing for team photos. “However, it will be an opportunity for many Korean soccer teams to step up to the next level.” With this being his third year at the Orange’s helm, he hopes to perfect his “three plenties of Jeju soccer” (strong as rock, swift as wind, and as beautiful as a woman). “I want to bring a more energetic, fun, and moving game to the fans that is comparable to other big teams like Barcelona,” he said. This has been his philosophy since he became United’s head coach and he believes the fans can expect much from this season’s squad. “We should be within the top eight,” Park said. “No one expects Jeju to be first, but I want to make it
Continued from page 6 four percussion instruments] before and I like it. But I haven’t seen this many drummers at one place. It’s quite impressive,” said Ronald Buie, an English teacher in Jeju, who watched the street parade near Jeju City Hall. Over the course of the two-day festival some 30 teams and 600 individuals performed. On Feb. 4 the main ceremonies began with a street ritual as well as a ritual commemorating spring, followed by Korean traditional performances and an exhibition near Gwandeokjeong. City organizers also provided spectators with the opportunity to make miniature
happen this year.” With the signings of striker Robert de Pinho de Souza, 30, and center defender Adrian Anthony Madaschi, 29, on Jan. 16, team president Byun Myung Gi believes that they are closer to this goal than before. “This year our team will be very strong. We hope we will be the fifth or fourth team this year,” he said. Byun has big hopes for the Brazilian and anticipates that de Souza will rack up goals this season which will make him a fan favorite. He added that overseas players like Brazilian Santos Jr., 27, and Australian Madaschi are very important to United for their diverse soccer backgrounds. “The foreigners will do a good job this year,” Byun said. Madaschi is expected to tighten up one of the weaker dimensions of Jeju’s play. With star defender Hong Jeong Ho, 22, playing for the national team, he often misses United games to represent Korea. With both Madaschi and Hong on the roster, there will be a strong player on defence every game, and the team can only benefit with the two on the pitch at the same time. “The two men will be key defenders,” Byun said. Jeju is off to Japan on Friday for six exhibition games with J-League teams, and will return midFebruary to prepare for their March 3 season opener at Jeju World Cup Stadium. (Interpretation by Angela Kim)
nangswe and to play Korean traditional games. Breaking from tradition this year, the symbolic cow was not the center of attention. Instead, there was a statue of a young agriculture goddess, called Jachungbi. According to city officials, in an effort to save money on this year’s event, it was decided to reuse parts of nangswe from previous years in the construction of the wooden cow. The Ipchun Gut as a festival was halted in 1914 during the Japanese occupation of Korea, but the practise was passed down through the generations until it was restored as an official festival in 1999.
Jeju World Cup Stadium in Seogwipo City as seen from Olle course 7-1. Photo by Steve Oberhauser
By Steve Oberhauser contributor@jejuweekly.com
The following is another article in our Hike Jeju series assessing two Jeju Olle walking trails. For an index of the rating system, please consult our Web site (shortened URL: goo.gl/ jkxO6) — Ed.
Course No. 7-1
(Grade: 36.0, 19th overall)
Route: Jeju World Cup Stadium (start, 0.0 km) - Seongsan Villa (1.2) Wolsandong (2.7) - Eongtto Pokpo, waterfall (4.4) - entrance of Gogeunsan (7) - back of Gogeunsan (8.5) - Seoho Village (10.2) - Hanon rice fields in crater (13.4) - Sammaebong Oeldolgae 15.1 km, finish — Course takes about six hours to complete A
Natural scenery and landscape
3.5
B
Conditions of the trail
4.0
C
Environmental damage / lack of footprint on the area
4.0
D
Bilingual opportunities
3.5
E
Crowd control / compared to how many people are using trail
4.5
F
Facilities around the area
4.0
G
Improvements
4.0
H
Park planning / architecture
3.5
I
Short-term impression factor
2.5
J
Long-term impression factor
2.5
Strengths: On the off chance it happens to rain a lot the day before hiking, Eongtto Falls is going to be the most important place to see on the trail. If no rain, then there’s only rocks. Mt. Gogeun makes up for the lack of precipitation, however. A
different view of Seogwipo City is presented. And finally, Hanon Crater and its rice fields are worth checking out after walking by the temple Bongnimsa. An added bonus, very few people use this spur trail. Weaknesses: There’s a lot of concrete on this trail. Coming out of the city, what else can be expected? There’s not many sites along the way. English learning opportunities: Bangsa Tower, Eongtto Pokpo - waterfall (multiple), Mt. Gogeun, Hanon Crater Quotable: “Eongtto is a combined name with Eong, a Jeju dialect word for rock, and Tto, Jeju dialect for entrance. The height of the waterfall is 50 meters and it exists around a warm-temperate forest. Eongtto waterfall is located near Seogwipo City, and is equipped with an observatory and Olle (walking) trail [No.] 7-1 passes nearby.” — Yang Ho Geun, The Jeju Weekly For the following links, please consult our Web site: The Jeju Weekly, Hike Jeju, Day 13 The Jeju Weekly, Science in Seogwipo: Hanon Maar Crater The Jeju Weekly, A homecoming of sorts The Jeju Weekly, Midnight at the pond of the Gods Olle Trail handbook in English Olle, Course No. 7-1 KTO, Course No. 7-1
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
The Jeju Weekly
My Jeju / Entertainment 13
‘In a new country, be open and focus on the positive’ Joy Raimondo Leman, one of the most known expat faces on Jeju Island Matty’s a great letter writer, so we kept in touch through letters and emails and instant messaging. He eventually transferred to my university, and we got together my junior year. Then we graduated and got married on the same day. Two months later, we came to Korea, because we really wanted to travel.
When did you start your martial arts training? Is it something you’ve always been interested in?
Photo by Susan Shain
By Susan Shain contributor@jejuweekly.com
For the full version of this interview, please go to our Web site — Ed. Martial arts maven. Championship beach volleyball player. Prolific baker. Wife and mother. Is there anything that Joy Raimondo Leman can’t do? Originally just a girl from New Jersey, Joy is one of the most known faces on Jeju Island, especially on the south side where she calls home. I recently asked Joy about her many hobbies, and even discovered one more secret skill. What is it? Read on to find out!
www.jejuweekly.com
Where are you from?
I’m from southern New Jersey — I lived there all my life. I love New Jersey. I went to college in Ohio, so that was my first time learning that people made fun of New Jersey. Everyone was like, “Haha, you’re from New Jersey!” But, I loved where I grew up ... it was all pine trees, no Wal-Mart, no shopping mall, and no grocery store. We just had a farmer’s market. It was a really wonderful place to grow up.
Did you and you husband, Matt, meet in college?
No, we are from two opposite ends of the country. We met at a camp in high school.
I started martial arts when Emma was six months old, so January/February 2007. Ever since I was little, I wanted to do karate. I would fight with my brothers and sisters and watch ninja turtles and stuff. But martial arts lessons were always really expensive in the States, so I never did it. Then, after Emma was born, I was quite restless staying at home. So my buddy, who knew my instructor, took me there and we joined together.
And now you’re in an apprenticeship there? What type of martial arts is it?
Why do you enjoy it?
It’s kind of been a really fascinating mode of transformation in my life. I always loved to read or be outside, but there was never any real focus or type of training — spiritual or physical. For me, martial arts is a way to create a sort of boundary or structure to work within. It’s good for my body and for my spirit. It’s taught me discipline in all kinds of ways and has been really valuable for me as a person.
Do you think you will always be involved in it?
Yes. I don’t know if I could ever be a master, because it takes tons of years of practice, but I’d really love to own a school someday, maybe in the States or Europe. It’s becoming popular in the States, and especially in England, too. It’s really taking off. It’s totally different than most martial arts, I think. The style of the forms are different; it’s very comprehensive and really complicated, but very unique.
Many of us have met your adorable daughter, Emma. How has it been raising a child in a foreign country? Specifically, in Jeju?
Sort of. If I were Korean, I would be training to become a master, but I won’t be here that long. I just help out with belt tests. The practice is called Kuk Sool Won; it is Korean traditional martial arts. The founders of it believe that taekwondo is heavily influenced by the Japanese — from the occupation. So the grand master of Kuk Sool Won, the guy who founded it, went all over Korea with his father, trying to document all of the ancient traditional Korean martial arts that had gone underground during the occupation — the royal court martial arts that the bodyguards at the royal palace used, and the Korean monks, and the traditional family martial arts. So they compiled all of it — self defense, acrobatics, weapons, and grappling. Taekwondo is just kicking and punching, and Kuk Sool Won is everything. It’s kind of ridiculous.
In my experience, Jeju’s been a great place to raise a kid. You have access to healthy food — fresh fruits and vegetables, in abundance. There’s a heavy emphasis on school, and it’s very safe. The culture is super kid-friendly. Everywhere you go, people make accommodations if you have a kid. When Emma was really little, the ladies at restaurants would take her into the kitchen and give her rice and play with her so we could eat our meal. And Korean food lends itself really well to kids’ palates. So, the practical side of it is really nice. But, we miss our family a lot. We get to go home every year, and our family has been able to come. So, we generally get to see each other every six months, but it’s still been a difficult tradeoff to make.
What belt do you currently hold in Kuk Sool Won? Had you ever done anything like this before?
Since you’ve been here for so long, what is one often overlooked place that people should visit on Jeju?
I’m a second degree black belt. I had never done martial arts before, so I had to work extra hard at everything. I train every night, except for Saturday and Sunday.
Donnaeko is really magical. Not many people go there. It’s like a dream come true. It’s an underground spring that runs through a valley. When it’s hellishly hot in July and August, you walk down the steps
and it’s automatically 10 degrees cooler. There are all these pools and smooth rocks everywhere. I love it there.
Any advice for someone just arriving on the island?
Definitely do your shopping at the five-day market. And make some Korean friends, especially people with families. It’s really fun to hang out with Korean families, and it’s a nice way to get to know the culture and feel at home. Also, be open, and focus on the positive, because there are so many negative things when you move to a new country and maybe [you] don’t have the best boss or [the] best work situation. It was the best advice anyone ever gave to me when I moved to Korea, and I use it all the time.
We know you have a lot of skills, from baking to volleyball. Any other secrets you’re hiding up your sleeve?
Haha, good question! Hmm, I’m into Korean traditional archery. My martial arts instructor loves archery. He made some targets, and then I started going to the archery range with him. I even joined the Korean National Archery Association. It’s so cool to be able to get plugged into Korean stuff.
Anything people would be surprised to learn about you?
I never wanted to have kids. Is that a surprise? I mean, it’s been a delightful surprise for me, but our plan was to come here and stay for a year or two, pay off debt, then travel. Then, Emma was born a year to the day after we arrived, and we’re still here. I would’ve never imagined my life to turn out this way, but I’m really happy that it has. Every day has been a wonderful surprise and every day has brought new challenges.
Do you have any words to live by, or a life motto?
Challenge myself. It’s good to have a challenging discomfort in some area, like in sports, you get tired and your muscles are really sore. Especially in Jeju, it’s quite easy to be comfortable. You can eat really well, and have fun and drink a ton and there’s almost no accountability, except to yourself. Be accountable to yourself and challenge yourself. That’s how I try to structure my life.
Movie Review
‘Pacemaker’ (2012) By Kim Jung Lim supuleit@jejuweekly.com
Full disclosure: I remember it was last spring when my dear friend Darryl said that he was an extra in a film. He said it was a movie about a marathon partly filmed at Jeju World Cup Stadium. I just laughed and didn’t take it seriously, which I now regret. If I had remembered, I might have found the familiar-looking awkward actor in the movie, “Pacemaker.”
The story is about marathon runner Joo Man Ho (played by Kim Myung Min). Like most athletes, he undergoes strenuous training. However, unlike most athletes all his hard work is not to earn a medal, but to help a favored teammate win the race and take home the gold. During a marathon, Joo’s mission is to run at a standard pace to the 30-kilometer mark, allowing his teammate to preserve his strength until the last stretch of the Continued on page 14
Cinergy
14 History
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Marriage and tears in the Joseon era By Robert Neff
www.jejuweekly.com
contributor@jejuweekly.com
Tears of happiness are often shed at weddings but during the Joseon era, tears were shed for other reasons: fear and sadness. The married couple was usually quite young — sometimes even children — and their wedding was generally arranged for political and financial reasons rather than love. Silk for the bride’s dress was provided by the groom’s father and was conveyed to her at night by a small procession of the groom’s friends. It was customary for this procession to be set upon by a group of men from the bride’s home and a mock battle would ensue. Although it was suppose to be a sham battle, real blows were often dealt and there were occasional deaths. The reasoning for this battle is unclear because if the groom’s side lost he would suffer bad luck and if the bride’s side lost she would suffer misfortune and unhappiness. Not a great way to begin a marriage. On the day of the wedding, the groom, dressed in his finest, goes to the bride’s home on horseback. He is preceded by two men, one carrying a white umbrella and the other, dressed in red, carrying a goose. The goose represented fidelity because geese were believed to mate for life. At this point the groom usually had his first glimpse of his bride but she was unable to see him. One Westerner wrote: “A queer object she [the bride] is to our thinking. Her face is covered with white powder, patched with spots of red, and her eyelids are glued together by an adhesive compound.” Guided by attendants, the bride would bow to the groom twice and he would bow to her four times and thus the wedding was completed. According to one source, wedding papers were also exchanged — the groom’s document bore the print of her thumb in red wax while the bride’s document bore the groom’s seal. The bride is alleged to have “guarded her marriage certificate as her life” because the groom could not remarry until he
Continued from page 13 race, and then sprint to the end, and the podium. Joo, who can run better than anyone for a 30-kilometer stretch, is the best man to set the pace and as the eponymous character, he is known as the pacemaker. The rustic and pure-spirited marathoner was performed by the well-known character actor Kim Myung Min who in his career has taken on various roles including a charismatic conductor, a clear-sighted detective, and a patient with Lou Gehrig’s disease. For this role he tried every trick in the book to bring Joo to life through changing his appearance into an ugly and humble marathoner by wearing dentures and losing weight to undergoing marathon training for two months. Kim convincingly portrayed the anguish of
Left, a Korean wedding procession circa 1910 - 1920. Right, a wedding photo circa 1920 - 1930. Photos courtesy Robert Neff Collection
had his paper back. These weddings were quite expensive. Unlike the banquets of today, each guest was given their own small table full of food and drink — all paid for by the bride’s family. In the 1890s, a “very cheap wedding costs 75 yen” and to have several daughters was considered a severe financial strain. After the initial ceremony, the groom ate and drank with his friends for a short time before returning to his father’s house to prepare for his bride’s arrival. The frightened young bride, with eyelids still sealed, was then borne to her parents-in-law’s home on a chair ornamented with red, covered with leopard skin, and accompanied by a group of lantern bearers. When she arrives, she bows four times to her Note 1 Yeobo is a common term of endearment between couples in Korea but do you know what it really means? According to Isabella Bird Bishop, an intrepid and elderly English traveler, it was used by the husband to his wife and meant — “‘look here’ which is significant of her relations to him.”
a marathoner who had to be a pacemaker to support his family. As the story progresses, he must make a difficult choice about whether to run what might be his last race; doctors warn he can no longer complete a race without sustaining a critical injury. This turns out to be the film’s climatic scene. He attempts to finish a race that takes place in London during the upcoming Olympics. To create a realistic atmosphere of the London Olympic marathon, lots of money and extras were mobilized. And through the actual marathon course of the 2012 London Olympics including Greenwich Park and Tower Bridge, Joo Man Ho does a great job of being the pacemaker. When he gets to the Lloyd’s building, the 30 kilometer point of the race and the landmark signaling that he no longer has to continue running, Joo
parents-in-laws and then is taken back to her own parents’ home where her makeup is removed and her eyes unsealed. Her husband arrives later and stays the night — returning the following morning to his own home. This was repeated over the next couple of days. It is on the third day that she goes to her parents-in-law’s home to stay for good — “absorbed as one of his [the groom’s] mother’s inferiors.” Silence was considered to be an admirable trait of a wife and the wedding day was no exception. It was expected for her to be absolutely silent and to not even make a gesture other than the ritual bowing. To do otherwise would result in embarrassment and shame to her family. Her husband, instead of helping her maintain her
silence, would taunt her and try to trick her into speaking. “It may be a week or several months before the husband knows the sound of his own wife’s voice, and even after that for a length of time she only opens her mouth for necessary speech.” While this may have been so at the beginning of the marriage it did not last long — there are a number of stories of Korean wives giving their alltoo-deserving husbands frequent tongue lashings. As stated earlier, most of these marriages were arranged and had little to do with love, but if a man was rich enough he often had a concubine — a woman he chose and often loved much more than his wife. The concubine may have had the husband’s attention but it was the wife who ruled the house.
Note 2 Not all of these marriage brokers were on the up and up. In the early 1900s, a marriage broker arranged a wedding between a young girl from a well-to-do family and a young handsome man. Apparently some of the girl’s relatives went to visit the prospective groom at his house to verify the broker’s claims and were very impressed. The young man was obviously affluent, well-dressed, and lived in a wonderful house. An elaborate wedding was held and then the young groom took his wife to his true home — “a wretched house where his father and mother and a large family lived huddled together like rabbits in a hole. The deception was a most cruel one, for the girl had been accustomed to a life of comparative luxury.”
embarks on a race of his own. In common with other Korean sports movies like “Malaton” (2005), which depicts the story of an autistic man who runs a marathon, or the recently released “Perfect Game” (2011), a story about competition between two Korean iconic baseball players, “Pacemaker” shows that challenging one’s limits and competing against oneself is more meaningful than simply winning a game or earning a medal. Another reason this film is especially moving is that it sheds light on the real existence of pacemakers, embodied by Korean marathoner Hwang Young Cho who was a pacemaker in the 1991 Dong-A International Marathon and came in third place. Abel Kirui, the winner in the World Championships Marathon in 2009 and 2011 also used to be a pacemaker.
This is the first movie for veteran musical director Kim Dal Joong, who is well-known for his musical successes like “Hedwig,” “Thrill Me,” “Dancing Princesses,” and others. Given that he is new to the job, it’s impressive that he could manage the largescale of the project, including filming multiple locations including Jeju Island and London, England. It’s a relatively bigbudget picture as well. It was widely reported that just the airfare for the twoweek shoot in London was 100 million won (US$90,000). It seems to be doing well at the box office, for its efforts. And now, as a movie-going audience member, the film gives you the chance to ask yourself: would you choose to settle for what you do well or push yourself to achieve what lies beyond your reach?
What's New 15
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
News Briefs Snoopy comes to Jeju in recognition of 15 years of sisterhood
On Feb. 2, a bronze Snoopy statue, a gift from Jeju’s sister city Santa Rosa, California, was unveiled in Geunrin Park, located across from the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province Governmental Office Complex. The gift was presented by Santa Rosa to commemorate the 15th anniversary of sisterhood between the two cities, which was originally established on Oct. 22, 1996. Santa Rosa Mayor Ernesto Olivares and Jeju City Mayor Kim Sang Oh participated in the ceremony, along with sister city committee members and a modern dance group who also performed during the 15th Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival. The bronze Snoopy statue was presented to Jeju in return for the island’s gift of two dolhareubang (stone grandfather) statues in 2003, which are displayed on Sonoma Avenue, Santa Rosa. Three years later, in 2006, another statue of a woman caring a Jeju
traditional water pot (mulheobeok) was given to Santa Rosa and was placed on “Jeju Way” in the city. Dan Taylor, who brought the statue to Jeju in July, and Jeff Taylor covered the cost to build Snoopy in memory of their mother Ann Taylor. The character of Snoopy, made famous by the “Peanuts” comic strip, was decided upon as a symbol to represent Jeju’s sister city because its creator, Charles Schultz’s had been a resident of Santa Rosa for 30 years. The entire statue is of the iconic image of Snoopy standing upon his dog house, however, the house itself was designed by Jeju artist Jang Eun Bong to resemble a Jeju traditional thatched roof house. Last December, Jeju City had christened a street on the island “Santa Rosa Way” and decorated it with its sister city’s flower, the rose. (By Angela Kim)
January sees a 21% increase in tourism to Jeju With the Lunar New Year falling in the month of January, officials with the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province recorded a record number of Korean and Chinese tourists to the island. They cited the five-day holiday as a major factor in this 21 percent increase from January 2011. According to January tourism numbers, some 585,000 Koreans from the
mainland traveled here, while 74,000 visitors came from overseas. (By Todd Thacker)
For 2nd straight year, Jeju sees net increase in migration stats
Last year, 2,000 more people moved to Jeju than left the island. According to Statistics Korea, 21,000 left while 23,000 arrived. Just over half were coming from Seoul and Gyeonggi province, followed by people from South Korea’s second largest city, Busan. In the breakdown, Stats Korea listed international education opportunities and farming as the main reason to come to the island. Most were aged over 30 or in their teens. Between 2003 and 2009, Jeju had a net loss in population. (By Todd Thacker)
MICE industry to foster new talent and markets
from Feb. 3 to 4 at the Jeju Grand Hotel, Jeju City. The event was organized by the Jeju Tourism Organization and the Jeju Special Self-Governing Provincial Tourism Association to foster MICE (meetings, incentives, conventions, and exhibitions) related talents, develop new markets, and to encourage the exhibition industry in Jeju. This workshop was co-hosted by the Jeju Leading Industry Office, the Jeju National University Tourism & Leisure Education Center, and the Korea Tourism Organization. On the first day, keynote speaker Park Jong Man, president of Association of Korea Exhibition Industry, emphasized the importance of the exhibition industry in creating jobs as well as its potential to increase exports. Korea MICE Association, Jeju Convention Bureau, COEX Convention & Exhibition Center, and Nuri Communications prepared a workshop for prospective employees. MICE related companies from all over Korea came to the event and held one-on-one information sessions. MICE product display booths were installed presenting various MICE programs ranging from event performances to theme parties. For more information, call the Jeju Leading Industry Office at 064-7597434. (By Angela Kim)
MICE Networkshop for Improving the Jeju Leading Industry was held
Editor’s Column
www.jejuweekly.com
‘No voice left unheard’
e-People.go.kr brings 303 governmental agencies together to listen to all citizens and residents of South Korea By Todd Thacker
toddthacker@jejuweekly.com
If you’ve spent much time in South Korea, you’ll quickly learn how robust its online culture is. For better or worse, when hot-button political or cultural issues hit the headlines or Internet portals, Korean netizens rally together to make their voices heard (or, in some cases, to become Internet vigilantes). What may not be so well-known is that in the last few years the national government and local municipalities have stepped up their online accountability and services in a big way. South Korea may be a relatively new democracy, but its e-government is by global standards cutting edge. One such service that I think you might find useful is called e-People (e-people.go.kr), which is overseen by the Anti-Corruption & Civil Rights Commission (simpan.go.kr) in Seoul. It is an “online portal system that integrates petition, proposal, and policy discussion services operated by 303 governmental organizations including central administrative organizations, local autonomous bodies and public institutions.”
According to the e-People Web site, during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) there was a system to handle government complaints which was a “first step towards giving the people a say in government affairs.” Driven by our ancestors’ lofty ideals, Sinmoongo [Big Drum] is reborn as “e-People” by integrating all channels of administrative organization to the people to upgrade the whole function of administrative judgment and corruption reporting as well as petition, proposal, and policy discussion services. e-People, available everywhere in the world, will take the lead to make a new face of Korea by resolving even trivial complaints after listening closely to the voices of the people and positively accepting their creative ideas.
Remarkably, this extends to foreigners as well. There are forms in 10 languages, including English, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Khmer, and Thai. The site, like many Korean sites set up in the 2000s, is unfortunately Microsoft-centric. One must download a .doc form, fill it out, and then re-upload it. However, it seems to work on non-Windows platforms without
A screenshot from the e-People Web site
too many glitches. There are over 1 million foreigners living in South Korea. It’s about time we take advantage of the services the government provides for all of us who make South Korea a temporary or permanent home. For those interested in reading more about the South Korean government’s immigration policy through 2012, there is an interesting 129-page document at immigration.go.kr/HP/IMM/icc/basicplan.pdf. On a side note, we have a new, more convenient way for contributors to send in their photograph files. Go to jejuweekly.lgnas.com. The ID is jejuweekly and the password is 12345. Click on “File Browser,” find the “New Photos” folder, and create a new folder with your name and assignment. Note that this is public. If you’re a regular contributor and would like a folder that only The Weekly staff can access, contact us at editor@jejuweekly.com. Thanks and have a great week.
16 Calendar
The Jeju Weekly
FRIDAY, February 10, 2012
Through the lens
An aircraft makes its way into Jeju International Airport flying over the Naedo area of Jeju City last week. Photo by Jenna Houts
www.jejuweekly.com
Community Calendar Exhibitions Kim Heung Soo and Bak Gwang Jin Permanent Exhibition Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji 14-gil, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju City. 064-710-7801
Byun Shi Ji and Kang Yong Beom Permanent Exhibition Gidang Art Museum, 34 Namseong-ro, Seogwipo City. 064-733-1586
Book Talk Exhibition Until Feb. 19. Jeju Museum of Art, 2894-78 1100-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-4300
Women Artists Exhibition Until Feb. 26. Jeju Museum of Art, 2894-78 1100-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-4300
Park Soo Young Exhibition Until Feb. 26. Jeju April 3rd Peace Park Memorial Hall, 430 Myeonglim-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-8435
Traditional Housing Life of Jeju Exhibition Until Feb. 28. Folklore and Natural History Museum, 40 Samseong-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-7708
Han Yong Jin Jeju Basalt Sculpture Exhibition Until March 5. Gallery Nori, 115-72 Wollim-ri, Hallim-eup, Jeju City. 064-772-1600
-HRML &XOWXUH $UWLVW 9LOODJH 5HVLGHQW $UWLVWV¡ ([KLELWLRQ Until March 20. Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji 14-gil, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju City. 064-710-7800
Jeju City. 064-710-4300
Performances Jump Every Tuesday to Friday 8 p.m., Saturday 4 p.m., 8 p.m., Sunday and holidays at 8 p.m. Halla Art Hall, Nohyeong-dong, Jeju City. 064-749-0550 Tickets: R seats: 50,000 won, S seats: 40,000 won (50% discount for Jeju islanders with ID card)
Nanta Everyday 5 p.m., 8 p.m. Jeju Media Center, 82 Sinsan-ro, Jeju City. 064-723-8878 Tickets: 50,000 won (VIP seats: 60,000 won) (50% discount for Jeju islanders with ID card)
Fanta-Stick Every Tuesday to Sunday 8 p.m. Jungmun Fanta-Stick Performance Hall in the Sound Island (Soriseom) Museum, 15 Jungmun Gwangwang-ro 110, Seogwipo City. 064-739-7781 Tickets: R seats: 50,000 won, S seats: 40,000 won (50% discount for Jeju islanders with ID card)
The 97th Regular Concert of Jeju Philharmonic Orchestra Feb. 16. 7:30 p.m. Jeju Arts Center, 231 Onam-ro, Jeju City. 064-728-3292 ext.4 Tickets: 5,000 won (groups: 4,000 won, students: 3,000 won)
The Red Bean Porridge Grama, a children’s musical with Korean traditional music
Nun Sensation, the musical Feb. 24. 8 p.m., Feb. 25. 3 p.m., 7 p.m., Feb. 26. 3 p.m. Jeju Arts Center, 231 Onam-ro, Jeju City. 1599-8879 Tickets: R seats: 80,000 won, S seats: 70,000 won, A seats: 60,000 won
2012 Jeju Philharmonic Orchestra Concert, the New Year concert Feb. 28. 7:30 p.m. Jeju Arts Center, 231 Onam-ro, Jeju City. 064-728-3292 ext.4 Free admission
Sports and Recreation Free Movies from the Jeju Movie Culture Art Center Jeju Movie Culture Art Center, Ildo 1-dong, Jeju City. 064-756-5757, 064-756-5959 Feb. 11. 3 p.m. “Sherlock Holmes� (2009) Feb. 12. 3 p.m. “Edward Scissorhands� (1990) Feb. 14. 3 p.m. “Valentine’s Day� (2010) Feb. 16. 3 p.m. “Romeo + Juliet� (1996) Feb. 17. 3 p.m. “Dan in Real Life� (2007) Feb. 19. 3 p.m. “Beauty and the Beast� (1991) Feb. 23. 3 p.m. “White Men Can’t Jump� (1992) Feb. 24. 3 p.m. “Love and Other Drugs� (2010)
Free Movies from the Culture & Arts Center Feb. 11 to 12. Culture & Arts Center, 69 Donggwang-ro, Jeju City. 064-710-7651 4 p.m. “The Adventures of Tintin: The Secret of the Unicorn� (2011) 7:30 p.m. “Perfect Game� (2011)
Citrus Museum Experience Program - Everyday 10 a.m., 2 p.m. Baking mandarin cookies and muffin cake. Admission fee: 3,000 won per a team of 4 to 5 people. - Feb. 18. 10 a.m. Making mandarin soap Admission fee: 5,000 won per a team of 4 people or less. Citrus Museum, 441 Hyodonsunhwan-ro, Seogwipo City. 064-767-3010 ext.1
Feb. 17. 10:10 p.m., 11:20 p.m. Culture & Arts Center, 69 Donggwang-ro, Jeju City. 064-713-3581, 064-722-0794 Tickets: 20,000 won
[K-League] Jeju United vs Incheon
Indian Women’s Life Exhibition Until March 24. Sulmundae Women’s Center, 12 Seondeok-ro 8 gil. Jeju City. 064-710-4246
Kim Kyung Ho Concert
[K-League] Jeju United vs Suwon
Feb. 18. 7 p.m. Jeju Arts Center, 231 Onam-ro, Jeju City. 1599-0701 Tickets: VIP seats: 110,000 won. R seats: 99,000 won
March 24. 3 p.m. Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcupro, Seogwipo City. 064-760-3611
A Realist of the Modern Korean Art Circle Exhibition Until March 25. Jeju Museum of Art, 2894-78 1100-ro,
March 4. 3 p.m. Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcupro, Seogwipo City. 064-760-3611
Festivals 2012 Jeju International Peace Marathon March 25. 9 a.m. Hallim Stadium, Hallim-ri, Hallim-eup, Jeju City. Route: Hallim Stadium Ongpo Hyeopjae Beach Geumneung Shinchang Coastal road Chagwido Courses: Full course for people over 18, fee: 30,000 won, 6 hours. Half-course for people over 18, fee: 30,000 won, 3 hours. 10-km course for children over 8 years old, fee: 20,000 won, 1 and a half hours. 5-km course for people of any age, fee: 20,000 won (as for those under 15 years of age, 10,000 won), 1 hour.
Seogwipo City Announcements The 7th Family Volunteers Application period: Until March 2. Eligibility: 35 families (first-come, first-served) - Students under 14 cannot receive insurance Running period: March to December Fields: Social welfare, traffic, environment, culture and sports events, and others How to apply: Download the application form from nanum.seogwipo.go.kr and submit it to gd744111@ naver.com or send it by fax 064-738-0718, or visit the community center. For further inquiries, call the Seogwipo Volunteer Center, 064-738-0716 or 064- 760-3878
Seogwipo Astronomical Science and Culture Center’s February Program ‡ 6WDUOLJKW ([SHULHQFH &ODVV IRU )DPLOLHV Times: Feb. 11., 25. 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Number admitted: 7 families of 4 members, for a total of 28 (those older than elementary school students) Programs: Learning Korean star signs, making star maps, and astronomical observations ‡ 6PDOO FLQHPD Times: Every Saturday and Sunday, 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. (four screenings daily) Program: Screening movies about astronomical science ‡ $VWURQRP\ FODVVHV IRU FKLOGUHQ WKURXJKRXW WKH \HDU daily from 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. Program includes classes and observations of celestial bodies, among other activities For further inquiries, call the Seogwipo Astronomical Science and Culture Center. 064-739-9701 ext.2