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45 CONTENTS JUNE 2015 34 JAMIE TURNS 40 It’s the boss’s birthday and, as a surprise, some of his foodie friends have whipped up a birthday menu, with recipes inspired by the man himself
56 HOT STUFF!
Jamie fires things up with homemade mustards and punchy recipes that make the best use of this brilliant condiment
THE REGULARS
45 FIFTEEN
At Jamie’s London restaurant, the new head chef brings butchery to the apprentices, making for some epic roast dinners… jamiemagazine.com
80 FRUITY LITTLE NUMBERS Celebrate
our beautiful British berries with these luscious desserts which offer a fresh twist on the classics
90 KING OF THE
CASTLE We head to
Northumberland, home of coastal castles, proper pubs and fantastic local fare that will keep you coming back
11 UPFRONT Great products and producers from around the Isles
21 CELEB Q&A Talking medal-worthy food with cycling champ Chris Hoy
22 WINE Tim Atkin’s
pick of great British wines
24 SUBSCRIBE Save on the cover price and join our Members Club!
110 PANTRY Clever
ways with earl grey tea
117 KITCHEN NOTES Tips on making our recipes
118 DETAILS T&Cs etc 122 MAKE ME A right royal Victoria sponge
80 AND MORE… 15 BRITISH PUB GUIDE
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From barbecuing to bowling, animals to ales, we pick the country’s top spots for a pint
18 JAMIE’S WORLD
Find out how to get involved in Food Revolution Day, and join us on a Turkish cooking holiday
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26 IN SEASON
We welcome in glorious British asparagus, and Peter Wrapson explains how to grow your own
Roast pork loin, p57
Herby pea falafel flatbreads, p76 Asparagus with soft-boiled egg & tarragon mayo, p106
65 PEAS OFFERING
Show the humble green pod some love with these fresh and flavoursome seasonal dishes
Short-rib croquettes, p51 Spinach & mushroom rotolo, p38
74 EAT YOUR GREENS!
A whole month’s worth of simple meals, snacks and drinks you’ll love to make
Scotch eggs, p114
Pea, egg & ham pie, p71
Pay a visit to the sparkling new Bombay Sapphire distillery in the heart of Hampshire
101 THE GUIDE
Amalfi lemon layer cake, p43
Malt custard & loganberry tart, p85
28 JEWEL IN THE CROWN
It’s no challenge to get kids tucking into their veggies with these delicious, easy recipes
10 WE LOVE
Wild strawberry slice, p82
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112 HOW TO MAKE
Get stuck into tender, tasty steak and kidney pudding – it’s traditional comfort food
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114 CLASSIC
The sun is finally here and you won’t want a picnic without these moreish scotch eggs
jamiemagazine.com
JEWEL IN THE CROWN A sensitively restored mill in the heart of Hampshire is the unlikely setting for Bombay Sapphire’s new HQ. We explore the award-winning redevelopment and sample the goods in some bespoke recipes Words Kevin Gould Photography Jooney Woodward
pringtime in Hampshire. Constable skies, golden pheasants on the wing, trout streams gurgling and rushing. This is heritage England, Watership Down country, a green place of half-timbered houses and thatch-roofed pubs. Just past Whitchurch village there’s a sign to somewhere that’s both present and past. Within the old flint and brick walls of Laverstoke Mill is the spanking new Bombay Sapphire Distillery. This is the first major UK gin distillery to be commissioned for nearly two centuries. Many years in the planning, Bombay Sapphire at Laverstoke Mill is a blend of time-tested craft, reinforced by up-to-the-minute technology. Here’s Sam Carter. He’s the brand’s senior ambassador, aged 36, and a picture in his white, carver’s bum-freezer jacket and handtied bow tie. Stuck on his breast pocket is a sapphire brooch. Behind Sam’s open smile and boy-band looks lies an encyclopaedic knowledge of gin cocktails that he shares naturally and easily during his sought-after masterclasses. Sam is a charming amalgam of anorak and award-winner who feels he’s lucked into the world’s best job.
“First, there’s the place,” he grins. “My view out of the Empire Bar [Sam’s ‘office’] is amazing!” And he spreads his jacketed arms to show the River Test chuckling brightly away under his window, transparent over its gravel bed, wild watercress fringing its tended banks. Sam’s cocktail style is not flashy but classy and, over a perfectly fashioned Corpse Reviver #Blu (curaçao replacing the usual triple sec), he explains how this mill had been left for dead for years before the Bacardi family – owners of Bombay Sapphire – bought and restored it: “We are honour-bound to respect the buildings’ history in creating a sustainable new home for Bombay gins that will last at least another 200 years.” Beneath Sam’s bar, their glazed feet paddling in the Test, are two gorgeous glasshouses, conceived by Thomas Heatherwick in his trademark sinuous design language. One is kept Mediterranean warm and dry, while the other is tropically hot; between
jamiemagazine.com
Opposite: Beautiful blue-hued bottles of Bombay Sapphire gin line the shelves at Laverstoke Mill. Above: ‘Mary’, the refurbished original still that was used to make the early Bombay Dry.
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Jamie turns
Surprise, Jamie! Your food-loving friends have cooked up a special menu for the big day, inspired by fun times, gorgeous ingredients and memorable meals. We wish you a super-brilliant birthday! Photography Tara Fisher
Cracking
cake
AMALFI LEMON LAYER CAKE
RAISING THE STEAKS Fifteen London has a new head chef, leading the apprentices in the art of butchery and Sunday roasts, all showcased in these beautiful British beef recipes Words Clare Knivett Recipes Robbin Holmgren Photography David Munns
SIRLOIN WITH POTATO GRATIN CHIPS
HOT! STUFF
Mustard adds a bang to just about anything. Here Jamie turns it from condiment and accompaniment to flavour star, and whips up some alternative varieties. It’s time to turn up the heat‌ Recipes Jamie Oliver Styling Phillippa Spence Photography David Loftus
ROAST PORK LOIN WITH BOMBAY-STYLE POTATOES
PEA & FETA SALAD
Peas offering Crisp, crunchy and sweet, these gorgeous little gems bring joy to so many dishes and are in season now Photography David Loftus Recipes & styling Charlie Clapp
PLAICE GOUJONS WITH TARRAGON MUSHY PEAS & CHEAT’S CHIPS
HONEYCOMB & RASPBERRY ‘VIENNETTA’
WILD STRAWBERRY SLICE
FRUITY LITTLE
NUMBERS Classic desserts get freshened up with the best of British berries – these recipes will keep you sweet throughout summer and beyond Recipes Ed Loftus Photography Laura Edwards
KING OF THE
CASTLE
With its dramatic coast, rugged moorland and brooding hills, Northumberland is a treat for lovers of the English countryside. These days, England’s northernmost county offers plenty of good food to go with its scenery, too Words Paul Dring Photography Rob Streeter
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orthumberland is proud to be peripheral. It’s been a frontier outpost, its wall holding the Scots at bay during the Roman occupation. It’s been outside the control of the political elite, as in the 9th century when Danelaw saw northeastern England ruled by the Vikings of York, rather than the Saxons of the south. And it’s been beyond the reach of the law, as when the bandits known as reivers wreaked havoc in Tudor times. Being at the margins of English life has bred a kind of happy equanimity. So while the residents of ‘God’s Own County’ of Yorkshire, for instance, seem compelled to forever trumpet the virtues of their homeland, Northumberland folk suffer from no such neediness. Life is good here. Why make a song and dance about it? This attitude transfers to the county’s food culture. At The Feathers Inn, which overlooks the broad Tyne Valley at Hedley-on-the-Hill, Rhian Cradock doesn’t do anything too fancy. He doesn’t need to. His food is impeccably sourced, seasonally scrupulous, regionally relevant – and a pleasure to eat. On the day I meet local boy Rhian and his wife, Helen, he has on the menu a loin of locally taken roe deer. This is simply treated, beautiful meat, appealingly charred on the outside, soft and not gamey. If anything, though, it’s outshone by the humble vegetables it comes with, which have had their flavour turned up to the max in an ‘I’d forgotten carrots could taste this good’ kind of way. Earlier, I’d enjoyed some cured herring fillets, their gentle sweetness underpinned in
true Scandi style with a mustardy, dill-flecked remoulade, pink fir potatoes and cornichons. Then there was a charcuterie platter, with suckling pig rillettes, roe-deer salami, and Middlewhite pork and green peppercorn pâté, all prepared by Rhian using local ingredients. “There have always been good producers here,” he says, “though when I opened, they were a bit dubious about selling to me. Restaurants used to just want to order, say, 25 fillet steaks. So I told them I’ll buy the bits nobody else will use, which is why we still have slow-roast pork shoulder on the menu every Sunday.” At the Barrasford Arms, 15 miles upriver among the becks and dells of the North Tyne, Tony Binks also makes full use of the county’s produce. There’s fresh game in season and local lamb and beef – memorably, in Tony’s beef rump braised in Newcastle Brown Ale. The county has seen a recent revolution in small-scale brewing, reflected by the taps in the bar, which advertise beers from Allendale Brewery, south of Haydon
Bridge, and High Hill Brewery, near Corbridge. It’s a gentle pleasure on a summer evening to take a glass of one of these, walk out onto the patio and look over the valley to Haughton Castle as the sun acquiesces over the hill. Barrasford is close to Hadrian’s Wall, so I drive to nearby Steel Rigg, where the wall cleaves to crags and gorges as it snakes its way over the terrain. From my vantage point on the ridge, sheep punctuate scraggy fields delineated by dry-stone walls, lapwings swoop over the marshy ground, and even deer are visible, grazing a mile or so distant, oblivious to being observed. Up here, the freshening wind warms the ears and other than a few hikers – some in full yomping gear, another in trainers and a ‘London Calling’ T-shirt – my only companion is the occasional wind-blown bumblebee. On a day like today, it’s hard to imagine that bloody mayhem ever advanced across these fields. There are wonderful pubs to be enjoyed in all corners of the county, from The Rat Inn with its
jamiemagazine.com
The Ship Inn at Low Newton looks out onto a broad beach – ideal for dog walking. Opposite: Helen and Rhian Cradock from The Feathers Inn, where the menu includes local roe deer loin with carrots and turnips. Previous pages: The ragged outline of Dunstanburgh Castle stands sentinel over north Northumberland’s dramatic coastline.
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Illustration: Emma Tissier
MAKE ME