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86 CONTENTS FEBRUARY 2016 45 PIE ACHIEVERS
We asked some of our favourite chefs to share a recipe for their ultimate pie – you’ll definitely want a slice of these beauties
56 SLOWLY DOES IT
From sticky, braised pork belly to tender, spiced venison, these slow-cooked meat dishes are just the thing for a wintry weekend feast
86 COPENHAGEN
With Scandi cuisine on the rise, the edgy Danish capital is making a name for itself as a truly creative dining destination jamiemagazine.com
THE REGULARS 66 SPUDS YOU LIKE
Few ingredients are as adaptable as the trusty potato – Jamie shows just what you can do with this versatile vegetable
77 FLIPPIN’
DELICIOUS From fluffy
hotcakes to delicate French crêpes, you’ll find your perfect pancake in our super stack of sweet and savoury delights
11 UPFRONT Great products, competitions, and exciting foodie news
18 WINE Tim Atkin’s
favourite warming reds
24 KITCHEN HACKS Your new secret weapon: nifty tips, tricks and more
38 SUBSCRIBE Get
Jamie magazine for less!
111 NOTES & TIPS
Cooking details, T&Cs and useful business info
113 RECIPE INDEX A handy recipe reference
114 MAKE ME
Oh là là! You’ll love this classic french onion soup
AND MORE…
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17 HUNGRY IN…
Swedish food and design queen Leila Lindholm takes us on an insider’s tour of Stockholm
20 IN SEASON
Jamie’s gardener, Peter Wrapson, discusses the delights of leeks, while Fifteen head chef Robbin Holmgren shares some favourite ways to cook them
27 OUR DAILY BRØD
10 WE LOVE
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Tamarind prawns with wholewheat noodles, p104 Leek & bacon rosti, p21
The UK has fallen in love with traditional Scandi bakeries – we meet the people behind the best buns in the country
Ricotta pancakes with roasted rhubarb, p78
35 HOME BREWED
French onion soup, p114
Potato gratin, p73 Baked crespelle, p82
Slow-cooked venison rogan josh, p57
We look at the rise and rise of the craft beer scene, as well as some of the UK’s favourite microbreweries and pubs
Ossetian-inspired chard & cheese pie, p47 Hasselback potatoes, p74
40 HEALTHIER, HAPPIER YOU
Jamie whips up four special superfood recipes that focus on good nutrition, keeping you fuelled from breakfast to dinner
99 EAT THE WEEK
Find loads of inspiration for cold comfort cooking, from satisfying pastas and grains, and awesome ways with oats, to hearty veggie meals and special dishes for Chinese New Year
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Banana, fig & oat breakfast bread, p100
108 HOW TO MAKE
Become a dim sum maestro and try these easy-peasy Cantonese dumplings with a tasty prawn and pork filling
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PIE ACHIEVERS There are few things more comforting and cockle-warming on a cold winter’s day than a hearty pie. Here, seven of the UK’s best-loved chefs share their ultimate favourites Photography Gareth Morgans
NATHAN OUTLAW’S TRADITIONAL FISH PIE
get STUCK IN
DAN DOHERTY’S HAM HOCK & PORK BELLY PIE
SLOW-COOKED VENISON ROGAN JOSH
SLOWLY DOES IT
The days may be short, but when it comes to these decadent, slow-cooked meat dishes from around the world – rich in both flavour and tradition – time is definitely on your side Recipes Peter Begg Food styling Andy Harris Photography David Loftus
Props styling: Liz Belton
SLOW-COOKED VENISON ROGAN JOSH
Serves 4 • 2 tsp cumin seeds • 3 tsp coriander seeds • 1 tsp black peppercorns • 6 cardamom pods • 1 tsp mild paprika • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 2 tsp garam masala • 1 tsp dried chilli flakes • 1 tsp turmeric • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into chunks • A thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and cut into chunks • A small bunch of fresh coriander, leaves picked and torn • 1 large red onion, peeled and cut into chunks • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 2.5cm piece of cinnamon stick • 3 fresh bay leaves • 600g venison haunch, cut into large chunks • 200g plain yoghurt • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 100g jarred peppers • 500ml lamb stock • A squeeze of lemon juice • Steamed basmati rice and wholewheat chapatis, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/gas 4. Pop the cumin, coriander, peppercorns and cardamom in a frying pan and place over a medium heat. Toast lightly until
darkened and smelling delicious, Use a pestle and mortar to grind to a powder. Mix in the paprika, garam masala, chilli and turmeric. 2 Add the garlic, ginger, coriander stalks and onion to a food processor and blitz to a purée. 3 Place an ovenproof pot that’s big enough to hold all the ingredients over a medium heat and drizzle in the vegetable oil. Once hot, add the ground spices and cinnamon stick and fry for a few seconds before adding the garlicky onion paste and bay leaves. Stir well to combine. 4 Add the venison, season well with salt, and cook slowly over a low–medium heat for 10–15 minutes or until the meat is browned and starting to smell amazing. 5 Add the yoghurt and tomato purée and cook until the chunks of meat are glazed and sizzling. Tip in the peppers and enough lamb stock to cover, then cover and cook in the oven for 2 hours. 6 Check halfway through cooking to make sure there’s enough liquid in the pot, adding a little more water if it’s looking dry, and stir well to ensure it’s not sticking to the pan. Once the meat is meltingly soft, add a little squeeze of lemon juice and a pinch of salt. 7 Scatter with the coriander leaves and serve with steamed basmati rice and small wholewheat chapatis. Per serving 260 cals, 6.8g fat (2.8g sat fats), 43g protein, 8.5g carbs, 7.1g sugars
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BEEF BRACIOLE WITH SAUSAGE & RED WINE
Braciole is the southern Italian name for this special-occasion dish of filled, rolled steak in a rich tomato sauce. It’s worth noting that it’s more widely known as involtini – order braciole in northern Italy and you’ll be served a chop! Serves 4 • 4 thick Italian sausages, skin removed and cut in half • 50g sourdough breadcrumbs • Zest of 1 lemon • 1 tsp ground dried red chilli • A grating of nutmeg • 2 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped • 8 slices of beef topside (about 100g each) • Extra-virgin olive oil • 1 red onion, peeled and finely diced • 2 celery sticks, finely diced • 200ml red wine • 400g tin of chopped tomatoes • Steamed broccoli, crusty bread and parmesan shavings (optional), to serve 1 Before you start, you want to lay out your sausages, breadcrumbs, lemon zest, chilli, nutmeg, rosemary and seasoning, along with a grater, so that everything is within easy reach. 2 Clean your work surface and lay the beef slices side by side. Put a sheet of greaseproof paper over one of them
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E D S Y O U LI K
, Th ies g ep g otat ve o is o so s ved o l t we’ ne of th s ipe c e ve g e most underrated yet mo r er iven i wint t a starrin g n i m r a w g role in these R e c ip e
s Ja m ie
Oliver St yling
Ginny Rolfe Photography
is Tara F
her
POSH HAM, EGG & CHIPS
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES WITH HONEYCOMB & BACON BUTTER
Flippin’ delicious Pancakes are such a treat and seriously versatile – from sweet stacks to cheesy crêpes, these recipes are more than just a flash in the pan Recipes & styling Maddie Rix Photography Laura Edwards
LITTLE RICOTTA PANCAKES WITH ROASTED RHUBARB
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COMING UP COPENHAGEN
Noma, officially the best restaurant in the world, put Nordic cuisine on the map, but it also kick-started a culinary revolution in the Danish capital Words Paul Dring Photography Simon Bajada
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mid much fanfare, on 26 January this year, Copenhagen’s most celebrated restaurant opened its doors to a bright future in shiny new premises. In Australia. To do this, René Redzepi has closed Noma – not just Denmark’s leading restaurant but for four of the past six years, according to the selfappointed arbiters of such things at San Pellegrino, the best in the world – and moved all the chefs, waiters and admin staff to Sydney. But this doesn’t leave the Danish capital as denuded as one might suppose. For a generation of professionals who have passed through the kitchens at Noma are making their presence felt throughout the city and recasting its food scene in their own image. Foremost among these is Christian Puglisi, who worked for two years at Noma and did a stint at El Bulli before striking out on his own. Now he has four restaurants in the city, including Relæ, in the northern district of Nørrebro, where we meet one sunny winter lunchtime. “Noma was a real game changer when it opened in 2003,” he says. “Before, every restaurant in Copenhagen was trying to be like somewhere in Paris or London.
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Then, all of a sudden, there’s this place that is using relevant local produce and tapping into what is unique about this area.” Noma’s manifesto of using local ingredients, whether farmed or foraged, and traditional recipes and techniques but with modern or experimental twists soon coalesced into a style known as New Nordic. It’s been hugely influential, though for Christian, the main inspiration he takes from Noma is in its ethos of doing something different. “I didn’t want any wild herbs here. I didn’t want to do any foraging, I wasn’t interested in these elements that everyone else was now doing.” Instead, Christian’s food is pared down, using just two or three elements, veg-focused and with understated presentation and an emphasis on organic and sustainable produce. By way of example, he shows me a dish of leek and oyster from the menu – thin slivers of leek draped across a layer of oyster, sitting on a leek emulsion. It’s simple and unshowy and exemplifies the kind of self-assured cooking Copenhagen is home to. “When I was an apprentice,” he recalls, “if you wanted to do something interesting you’d have
to go abroad. Now the scene has so much more to offer. Before Noma, culinary tourism didn’t exist. No one would come to Copenhagen just for the quality of the food. You really would pick anywhere in the world before you came here.” The street that houses Relæ is symptomatic of the changes the city has seen in the past decade. A dodgy strip in a scuzzy neighbourhood, Jægersborggade was home to pimps and drug dealers. Now, it’s a clean, handsome residential street, with aproned chefs bustling across the road bearing platters between the kitchens of Relæ and Manfreds, Christian’s other restaurant on the street. A few doors up, a handful of hardy souls swathed in Doctor Who scarves brave the terrace at Grød,
Copenhagen’s only – and tiny – porridge restaurant. There are yummy mummies pushing prams but, as far as I can see, no one pushing pharmaceuticals. Afterwards, I walk back into town via the lakes, a narrow arc of waterways that separates Copenhagen’s Indre By (Inner City) from its northern suburbs. Here, joggers and cyclists are enjoying the golden rays of the day’s dying sun while, on the water, a huge flock of coots outnumbers the ducks and swans. I pause on the bridge, my eye drawn to a bicycle abandoned in the water below. I try to picture the singularly unDanish failure of sang froid that must have prompted its summary expulsion from the road – a Scandinavian Basil Fawlty,
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Opposite, from top: A dog waits patiently outside porridge restaurant Grød while its owner enjoys a peaceful moment inside; Nørrebro street scene. Above: The city’s lakes are popular with joggers, cyclists… and swans. Previous pages: A cyclist takes a breather by the lakeside; a myopic badger is among the eccentric decor at Lidkoeb cocktail bar in Vesterbro.
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Illustration: Emma Tissier