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CONTENTS SEP/OCT 2015 39 JAMIE’S SUPER STARS
Mr O’s new cookbook is all about eating with nourishment in mind – check out some of his vibrant dishes right here
51 LENTIL LOVE
It’s amazing what you can do with lentils! Stock your pantry with these versatile pulses and give our great ideas a spin
THE REGULARS
80 ESSAOUIRA
Bursting with character and colour, Morocco’s pretty port town is home to souks, spices and seriously fresh seafood jamiemagazine.com
60 AHEAD
OF THE GAME
Chef James Lowe, of London’s acclaimed restaurant, Lyle’s, shows us what to do with our country’s gorgeous wild meats
70 NICE PEAR!
From porridge to pudding, these plumptious pear recipes honour one of the loveliest bounties of autumn
11 UPFRONT Autumn treats, tips and products
20 CELEB Q&A We talk guilty pleasures with pop singer Olly Murs
24 SUBSCRIBE Save on the cover price and join our Members Club
26 WINE Tim Atkin’s low-alcohol lowdown
102 PANTRY Add a little heat with harissa
109 DETAILS T&Cs etc 110 KITCHEN NOTES Tips on making our recipes
114 MAKE ME A bowl of hot pumpkin soup is pure Halloween comfort
AND MORE…
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22 COCKTAILS
Martini’s new Vermouth di Torino is full of botanicals, perfect for these cool cocktails
28 IN SEASON
10 WE LOVE
It’s all about sweet potatoes right now – Peter Wrapson extols the benefits of this autumnal root veg
Sizzling Moroccan prawns, p42
31 SARDINE RUN
Sweet potato, apricot & pecan loaf, p95
Whether you’re a fan of fresh or totally love them tinned, we’ve got four great ways with these super little fish
Gamekeeper’s pie, p67 Zesty vanilla risotto, p72 Chicken & squash cacciatore, p49
34 ALDEBURGH
This characterful town on the Suffolk coast boasts a Blue Flag shingle beach, colourful cottages and top seaside fare
93 THE GUIDE
A collection of easy and mouthwatering recipes to delve into when you’re looking for midweek inspiration
104 HOW TO MAKE
This creamy mushroom risotto is easy to master while being impressive enough to become your new signature dish
Pear-roasted pork loin joint with sage stuffing, p72 Harvest cranachan, p101 Curried fish pie with sweet potato coconut mash, p96
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Mushroom risotto, p104
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Perfect dosa, p52
106 CLASSIC
It’s chilly outside, so cosy up indoors and tuck into this hearty sausage cassoulet. It’s perfect weekend comfort food
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jamie’s
SUPER stars
What we eat plays such an important part in our wellbeing. Jamie’s new cookbook looks at the best ingredients to create meals that strike that perfect balance of nutritious and delicious Recipes & photography Jamie Oliver
SIZZLING MOROCCAN PRAWNS WITH COUSCOUS & RAINBOW SALSA
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Taken from Everyday Super Food, published by Michael Joseph. Recipe © Jamie Oliver. Photography © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited 2015, by Jamie Oliver. Photo of Jamie by Paul Stuart.
t’s that wonderful time of year where I get the pleasure of sharing a snippet from my new book with all you lovely Jamie mag readers. And for me, the timing of Everyday Super Food couldn’t be better. We’re in a position where the general public at large are asking lots of questions regarding their health and wellbeing and have a real appetite for doing better. And the access to information – on a national and global level – seems to be getting really robust. So the journey that I went on in the creation of this book can very much be split into two parts. Firstly, I looked at where in the world people are getting it right. What and how are they eating that means they’re more fit and healthy, and living
longer than we are? And secondly, as far as a meal is concerned – what does good really look like, for breakfast, lunch and dinner? What I’ve done here is create a mixture of recipes, embracing both comfort and healthy food, meals on a budget or that fit within a certain timeframe, and this book kind of answers a need as well. It’s all about creating a really safe and trustworthy place for everyday cooking that would help shape and hone people’s rhythms, empowering them to find clever, delicious ways to create exciting, nutritious meals. With the importance of breakfast being so profound, getting this meal right within the structure of a whole day was imperative, which is why I’ve worked incredibly hard to make sure that every recipe is balanced and really nutrient-dense. With this in mind, I’ve framed all the breakfast recipes to come in under the 400-calorie mark, and lunch and dinner (which are interchangeable in the book) to come in under 600 calories per meal. All the recipes get a tick with flying colours from my nutrition team – very important. The average cost is around just £2.50 per portion – and that’s using higher-welfare, organic ingredients, so you can do it even cheaper if you want to. There’s also whole load of useful and easily digestible pages about nutrition and ingredients, as well as ideas for nutritious snacks and drinks. So please take a look at the book – to start we’ve given you these recipes from it. I hope you find them really useful and, most importantly, super-delicious.
SEARED TUNA WITH SICILIAN COUSCOUS & GREENS
CHICKEN & SQUASH CACCIATORE
o t d o o f t n a we w l l i t s t u b s u nourish g n i z a m a e tast
REFRIED LENTILS WITH EGGS & SALSA
Lentil love
: d brilliantly versatile Tasty, good for you an tle ons to fall for this lit there are many reas art cipes will win your he legume – and these re Recipes & styling Georgina Hayden Photography Sam Stowell
NORTH INDIAN GREEN LENTIL DAL
AHEAD OF THE GAME
Many people shy away from cooking with game, but the flavours on offer are worth getting familiar with. We turned to the team at Lyle’s restaurant in London to guide us through the UK’s wonderful wild meats Recipes by James Lowe Photography David Munns
J
ames Lowe is certainly making his mark. After stints as head chef at St John Bread and Wine and as a founding member of culinary collective The Young Turks, he launched Lyle’s in east London in 2014. This year, the National Restaurant Awards named it one of the top 10 restaurants in the UK. The success of Lyle’s surely lies in its focus on seasonal, local ingredients, and British game in particular. “We’re fortunate that, because of our location and attitude to conservation, we still have game left,” says Lowe. “All the animals have such unique flavours; I want people to see that, so I use the produce in approachable ways.” This enthusiasm for wild meats also inspired Game, Lyle’s annual feast. Lowe invites talented cooks from all over the globe to join him on a hunt and create a one-off menu (see game.co.uk for more on this year’s event). “I’m hoping they will use their own cultural references to create something relevant to them,” says Lowe, “and that we can open people up to new experiences.” Game is also easy to cook at home. “Buy it from a reputable supplier,” says Lowe. “And use a digital probe and oven thermometer – I promise the results will be better.” These gorgeous recipes from the Lyle’s team will really help you get your game on.
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nice pear! Nothing spells autumn like this mellow, golden fruit, so celebrate the changing of the seasons with these elegant dishes, both sweet and savoury Recipes & styling Ginny Rolfe Photography Tara Fisher
CHILLI-POACHED PEARS WITH CHOCOLATE & CARDAMOM SAUCE
SPICY PEAR CHUTNEY
STEP INTO
ESSAOUIRA
Forget Marrakesh. This bright, sensual gem, set on Morocco’s bountiful Atlantic coast, will feed your imagination almost as much as your appetite Words Kevin Gould Photography Matt Munro
he has the sea at her head and a port at her heart. Strong winds ruffle her and her soul is the medina. This peninsula called Essaouira has been lusted after and possessed by Phoenicians, Romans and Byzantines, the Portuguese, British, Dutch and French, Arabs, Jews, Berbers, high-as-a-kite hippies, kitesurfers, artists and rock gods. They have also named her Thamusiga and Mogador. All have left their mark, yet Essaouira remains herself: assured, proud and mysterious. The Atlas Mountains fall into the crested ocean just south of here. Marrakesh bustles hotly a couple of hours to the east. This is where the camel caravans from Timbuktu fetched up, their cargoes of skins and slaves, salt and spices to be sent by sea to Amsterdam, Liverpool or Livorno. You still sense this today, even if the
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camels are mostly offered for beach safaris and the swaggering Tuareg in his salt-white djellaba is now selling spices, rather than being sold. The Atlantic, which rages against Essaouira’s ramparts, also provides plump, oily sardines, bountiful bream and bass, rays, crustacea and monstrous conger eels. These are landed with much shouting from huge, high-prowed fishing boats, each handmade in the port from timbers soaked and bent by master craftsmen to an ancient, unwritten design. There are stripy shacks outside the port, where they’ll cheerfully grill you a silvery fish and sell you a soda for only a handful of dirhams; we prefer to saunter inside among the port’s ripe aromas and scraped scales, here to buy for pennies fish that would cost a king’s ransom back home. Smiley Saïd suggests a
prime corvina; his mate, Marouane – in slicked curls, camo pants and flowered bomber, as if for a Dolce & Gabbana shoot – guts it. Souk Jdid, located in the city’s medina, or old town, is a grid of squares, and in the Marché aux Grains we deliver our fish to one of the hole-inthe-wall cafés, where Mr Azzedine gets to work grilling it over charcoal. For this service, together with a plastic salver of dressed onion and tomato salad, pillowy discs of tearable bread and big bottles of water, he charges us a fiver. Two families of Berbers, sheltering under camel-hair djellabas and high-crowned straw hats, sell their just-threshed barley, each group the guardian of a mountain of grain built on tarps above the cobbles. The air smells of musky cumin and sharp, fresh mint. Tiny spice shops display pyramids
of turmeric and mixes for grills and tagines. Roots and leaves promise to attend to our fertility and flatulence, libido and waistlines. There are powders to banish the blues and flay the brain, tinctures to guard against the evil eye. The souk is thronged from dawn until after midnight. Surly, raw-looking butchers glower behind haunches of beef and bunched strings of sunburned merguez. Handcarts are replenished with semolina-dusted hot bread baked in neighbourhood cellars. We pass fig and date stalls coated in dark curtains of wasps, and a bloke on a stool selling dripping honeycomb. Insistent fruiterers offer tight, sweet bunches of grapes, the bloom still upon them. Lads grill herb-stuffed offal sandwiches, and there’s a family selling spicy boiled snails by the bowlful. Craftsmen fashion artefacts
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Above: The hajhouj is usually played by Gnawa minstrels; breakfast at Villa Maroc (top left); the city walls. Opposite, clockwise from top left: argan oil being pressed at women’s cooperative Assaisse Ouzeka; fishing boats on the main beach; kaftans for sale. Previous spread: babouche slippers in the souk; the fortified city’s 18th-century architecture, seen in a sturdy gateway in Place de l’Horloge, has won it World Heritage status.
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Illustration: Emma Tissier