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CONTENTS JULY 2015 34 PICK A PEPPER
Jamie explores the rainbow of peppers, from red to yellow, fresh to jarred, sweet to spicy, with recipes that are big on both colour and flavour
44 SMALL WONDERS Recreate the flavours of Spain with chef Omar Allibhoy’s traditional tapas – pull up a bar stool, open a beer and enjoy!
THE REGULARS
94 CADIZ
The streets of this Spanish port city are bursting with tapas bars; this is a place best explored on foot – and with a hearty appetite jamiemagazine.com
62 A NEW PERU
Ceviche restaurateur Martin Morales and his trusty team of chefs serve up the ultimate Peruvian barbecue. Time to fire up your grill…
72 HOT PROPERTY
We pay a visit to Extremadura, in western Spain, and meet the producers behind some of the world’s best paprika
11 UPFRONT Red-hot deals, products and more!
18 CELEB Q&A Jamie
talks cooking with ballet dancer Carlos Acosta
25 WINE Tim Atkin’s best wines for summer
32 SUBSCRIBE Save on the cover price and join our Members Club!
118 PANTRY So many reasons to love olives
126 DETAILS T&Cs and Jamie’s businesses
127 KITCHEN NOTES Tips on making our recipes
130 MAKE ME A jug
of sangria is pure summer
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AND MORE… 20 COCKTAILS
Avast, me hearties! We’ve got all the rum cocktails you need to see you through summertime
26 IN SEASON
Gooseberries might not be in vogue, but they are in season – and well worth cultivating
29 RICH PICKINGS
Gorgeous veggie dishes inspired by the abundant produce of Murcia, Spain – also known as the orchard of Europe
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Chocolate, coconut & almond balls, p112
Chicken chilindrón, p40 Spicy barbecue pork loin, p79 Cantabrian cheesecake, p91
83 CREMA DE LA CREMA
Zarangollo, p30
Creamy custard, crumbly biscuits, mellow fruits and spices… You’ll love these heavenly Spanish desserts
Pisto manchego, p38
THE GUIDE
A whole month’s worth of delicious easy meals, snacks and drinks to inspire you
120 HOW TO MAKE
Learn how to master South America’s favourite street food, the amazing empanada
You can’t beat a bowl of ice-cold gazpacho, made with the pick of the season’s fresh produce
Tuna mechado with beans, p53
Pain killer cocktail, p22
We celebrate the ocean’s bounty with a Mediterranean twist in these stunning Spanish-style seafood recipes
123 CLASSIC
Blackened chicken, p64
Andalusian-style grilled lamb cutlets, p45
52 OUT OF THE BLUE
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10 WE LOVE
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Pick a Pepper
red hot, capsicums Whether cool green or ient in Spanish cocina. are an essential ingred off in ever ything Here Mr O shows them e manchego toastie from game to a humbl ce Styling Phillippa Spen Recipes Jamie Oliver well Photography Sam Sto
P
eppers are one hell of an ingredient! From the jarred peppers that have been burnt, blistered, peeled and preserved – therefore offering loads of convenience – to those that are raw, fresh, pickled, smoked, dried and ground, the myriad possibilities and varieties are phenomenal. Peppers come in all different shapes, sizes and strengths of heat, so I thoroughly encourage you to mix things up and try new varieties if you come across them. Originally named for the kick you get from the hotter varieties, peppers, or capsicums, are actually unrelated to the spice – in fact, they’re from the nightshade family, along with chillies, potatoes and aubergines, and botanically classed as fruit. Their colour – which ranges from green and yellow through to orange and red – is a result of their being picked at different stages of ripeness. By default, this also gives a great spectrum of flavours – and we like that! For this story, as well as jarred peppers I’m focusing on the larger, milder varieties, which have been truly embraced into many aspects of regional Spanish cooking. The Spaniards definitely have a way with peppers, and I love how they seem to pop up in all sorts of pintxos, especially in the country’s tapas bars. Layered into mini cheese toasties, paired with simply grilled seafood or stuffed with anchovies and olives, there are so many simple ways to prepare these gems once you start embracing them. As you’ll see in these recipes, they can add incredible texture, colour and flavour, lightness or depth, to all sorts of cooking. I wanted to give you a nice mix of veggie, meat and fish dishes, celebrating and utilising peppers in different ways to demonstrate that versatility. If you’re cooking a dish where peppers are the real hero, my top tip would be to try and pick up a box of slightly over-ripe peppers, nice and cheap from a market stall at the end of the day. Those wrinkly peppers that are often overlooked are actually the good ones, just waiting to be burnt, peeled and turned into an incredible base, or preserved for another day. Enjoy!
ESCALIVADA
ESCALIVADA
This is a rustic Catalonian dish of smoky roasted veg in a herby dressing; originally, the vegetables would have been cooked in embers. You can enjoy escalivada warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 • 6 large plum tomatoes • 2 red peppers • 2 green peppers • 2 aubergines • 2 white onions • 1 whole head of garlic, squashed to open out the cloves Dressing • 8 fresh bay leaves, stalks removed • A pinch of rock salt • A few sprigs of curly parsley, leaves picked, stalks chopped • 1½ tsp dried oregano • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1½ tbsp sherry vinegar
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1 Preheat the grill or barbecue to high. If using the grill, place all the vegetables in a large roasting tray (all skins on) and scorch until blackened and tender, about 15–20 minutes (depending how powerful your grill is). If cooking on a barbecue, place the veggies directly on the grill. You will need to keep turning them all as they cook to ensure their skins are evenly blistered and blackened all over, otherwise you won’t be able to peel them off afterwards. The tomatoes and peppers will take less time than the others, so keep an eye on them and carefully remove them when they are ready. 2 Pop everything into a couple of large mixing bowls, cover with cling film and leave for a few minutes (this will allow them to cool down before you peel them and create steam to help loosen the skins).
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SMALL WONDERS We love tapas, those moreish little dishes best enjoyed with a cold cerveza. Spanish chef Omar Allibhoy, the man behind London’s Tapas Revolution restaurants, cooks up these irresistible sharing plates Recipe styling Joss Herd Photography Simon Bajada
CHULETAS A LA ANDALUZA
ALMEJAS AL FINO CON JAMON
H T E F B O LUE T U O From the Costa Brava to the Bay of Biscay, the waters surrounding Spain yield a brillliant array of fish and seafood, as seen in these authentic recipes. Dive right in! Recipes & styling Andy Harris Photography David Loftus
BESUGO AL HORNO
A WHOLE NEW PERU With the opening of a second Ceviche in Old Street, London is feeling the Latino love. And now you can too, with these smokin’ recipes straight from the grill Recipes Martin Morales & Jorge da Silva Baumhauer Photography Laura Edwards
POLLO A LA BRASA
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HOT PROPERTY Paprika is a spice with a well-travelled history, but its Spanish origins belong to Extremadura, where one family is producing some of the best in the business Words Andy Harris Photography David Loftus Recipes Javier Oliva
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hen Christopher Columbus returned from one of his New World voyages in 1493, he brought back more than just evocative seafaring tales. He presented exotic gifts to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, at the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Guadalupe, in Extremadura, western Spain. Among other items, Columbus gave them the first known Capsicum annuum plants, never foreseeing the impact this would have on Spanish cuisine. The green-fingered monks of Extremadura wasted no time planting the samples and passing seeds on to other monastic orders to be cultivated across the country. It didn’t take long for these to take root, and they soon spread throughout Africa, Asia and Eastern Europe. Once dried and smoked, the peppers were crushed to become the distinctive crimson powder now known as paprika, or pimentÓn.
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Spanish paprika tends to be sweeter and milder than elsewhere. The finest, and the only one that’s smoked, comes from Extremadura; notably the La Vera region, near Caceres, which has PDO (Protected Denomination of Origin) status granted to its 16 producers, who each work with their own pepper farmers around the fertile alluvial fields by the Tiétar river. By the 18th century, La Vera had become famed for producing the best smoked paprika around the Camp Aran¯uelo, Ambroz and Alagon valleys. Today, there are three recognised types – dulce (sweet), agridulce (bittersweet) and picante (hot) – with various colour grades, from rusty red to blood orange. Dulce is perfect in paellas, agridulce adds lovely flavour to marinades and stews, while picante enlivens grilled vegetables or seafood. We visited La Chinata, a small family producer making some of the best paprika. It’s run by two young and innovative brothers, Javier and Carlos Oliva, who have helped
establish their brand as a chef’s favourite, thanks to their high production values, distinctive red tins and stylish campaigns. “My grandfather started the business with my father in 1975; they had a haulage company and used to take the farmers’ produce – mainly corn and peppers – in trucks around the region,” Carlos explains. “They both loved paprika and decided to open their own business. Javier and I worked every summer, helping out when we were students, then one day my father said he needed us to help him with the business. I’d just finished studying economics at university so jumped at the chance to help him expand.” Production is a simple but precise affair, reliant on good growing conditions and careful techniques. The main capsicum varieties cultivated are bola, ocal, agridulce de la vera, jaranda, jariza and jeromin. They start from seed in nurseries at the end of February, are planted out in the fields between May and June, then hand-harvested between the
middle of September and late October, before being taken away for drying. Production became an industrial affair back in the 17th century, when the often-rainy weather led to the building of secaderos (smokehouses) beside the fields. These distinctive buildings are modest affairs, where oak or holm oak wood logs smoulder (but never flame) on concrete floors, beneath slatted wood lofts where the peppers are laid out to dry for 10-15 days. During the first three days, when the peppers still contain a lot of water, doors and windows are left open for ventilation, to keep the peppers from rotting. Once they’ve lost 40 per cent of their water, more logs are added to the fire, the doors and windows are closed again, and every morning and afternoon the farmers climb a ladder to the loft to gently turn the peppers with a wooden rake. Once dried, they are packed into traditional maquilones (80kg sacks) and taken to Plasencia, a small medieval town of 40,000 inhabitants,
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Previous spread: Jaranda peppers after smoking; farmers Emiliano Martin and Maria Asunción Cardado hold peppers freshly picked from their farm. This spread, from left: hand harvesting at a La Chinata farm; a spice pyramid before final packing; peppers drying in a secadero; Javier holds a heavy millstone with Juan Pedro Barroso and Arturo Clemente; paprika goes through many hours of slow, fine grinding and milling to produce the perfect result.
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crema de la crema These decadent, creamy Spanish desserts, punctuated with sumptuous fruits and nuts, make the perfect end to any good meal Recipes Georgina Hayden Photography Anders Schønnemann
LECHE FRITA
BOCADILLO DE HELADO CON HINOJO
QUESADA PASIEGA
WONDER
WALLS
Built on a peninsula, surrounded by fortifications and jam-packed with tapas bars – welcome to the ancient, crumbling, defiantly beautiful Spanish city of Cådiz Words Paul Richardson Photography Simon Bajada
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This spread, clockwise from above: The bleached white of Cádiz cathedral rises above the harbour; a local gent on the streets of La Viña, where some of the walls are prettily tiled, hinting at Cadiz’s Moorish heritage; torreznos (fried pork pancetta); shoppers making their way along the palm-lined streets. Previous spread: a La Viña resident surveys her street; the robust sea wall and promenade near the city’s botanic garden.
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ou can sense the sea long before you see it. Coasting south down the long, straight, pine-flanked motorway out of Seville, there’s a saltiness in the air. Eventually, the highway narrows to a single lane to cross the Carranza Bridge, and all around you is the glass-green Atlantic, whipped into peaks by the ocean breeze. Old-town Cádiz is almost a fortress, and very nearly an island. Looked at on the map, it might be a clenched fist waving at some imagined aggressor – perhaps the notorious pirate Sir Francis Drake, who did some beardsingeing down here. A rough-and-tumble city whose economy – traditionally based on shipbuilding and heavy industry – has been in decline for as long as anyone can remember, Cádiz has attributes of which it can be proud. One: its impressive history. Founded (as Gadir) by the Phoenicians in the 12th century BC, Cádiz is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Western world – Hannibal left from here to conquer Rome.
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This was the birthplace (in 1812) of Spain’s first constitution, a liberal experiment that, had it not been quashed by the monarchy of the time, might have altered the course of European history. Cádiz is passionate about its vibrant carnival, the most important of its kind in mainland Spain. And proud, not least, of its food culture, as characterful, colourful and appetising as the city itself. Standing on the balcony of my room at the Parador de Cádiz, I had a brilliant view of the Santa Catalina fortress, one of the historic fortifications surrounding the city, and the lighthouse-castle of San Sebastián jutting out into the bay. Palm trees waved in the high wind over a cityscape in African tones of dusty ochre, sandy beige and weather-beaten white. I hit the streets on foot (forget about negotiating Cádiz’s warren of cobbled streets by car) wondering, not for the first time, why tourists flock to Seville, Granada and Córdoba but often miss out on this city. It’s handsomely dilapidated, often compared to Havana, Cuba (for which it was the double in the Bond film
Die Another Day). Its old-town neighbourhoods are each more pungently authentic than the last. There is Pópulo, the historic quarter surrounding the neoclassical-cum-baroque cathedral and the Roman theatre, abutting the sea wall; Santa Maria, the scruffy yet sprightly flamenco district; and El Mentidero, with its peaceful squares and churches. But for salty charm and character, nowhere can touch La Viña. This iconic neighbourhood (just a few blocks from the parador) was the site of vineyards and orchards before becoming a fishing quarter, whose inhabitants kept their boats on La Caleta beach. On this breezy spring morning, the barrio of La Viña was buzzing with life. Old gents in berets were busy playing dominoes in neon-lit bars where flamenco music blared. Local women, toting the weekly shop from the low-cost supermarket, stopped to chew the fat with their neighbours while their kids ran riot on the street. All along the Calle Virgen de la Palma, unofficial Main Street of the barrio, the bars were setting out their streetside tables in
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Illustration: Emma Tissier
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