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CONTENTS AUGUST 2015 27 LIGHTS,
CAMERA, ACTION
Jools Oliver steps into the limelight and cooks up a storm on Jamie’s new Family Food Tube channel
31 BRITAIN’S BEST BEACHES
Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside, whether it’s eating oysters in Whitstable or fish and chips on a Hebridean island
THE REGULARS
82 AVIGNON
The gateway to Provence is steeped in history, but it also boasts some of the best food and wine the region has to offer. Bon appétit! jamiemagazine.com
36 UP THE
GARDEN PATH
Celebrate summer with Jamie’s recipes that make the most of all the fruit and veg that’s at its tastiest right now
54 MEAT MARKET Kebabs and burgers, but not as you know them. The country’s best street-food traders share their favourite dishes
13 UPFRONT Summer treats, tips and products
18 CELEB Q&A Jamie and TV presenter Dawn O’Porter chew the fat
22 WINE Tim Atkin’s wines for warm weather
34 SUBSCRIBE Save on the cover price and join our Members Club!
102 PANTRY New
ways to use a tin of tuna
109 KITCHEN NOTES Tips on making our recipes
110 DETAILS T&Cs etc 114 MAKE ME Crab corn cakes: a light lunch with a bit of a kick
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AND MORE…
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20 COCKTAILS
These refreshing summer punches are sure to add some fizz to your garden party
24 IN SEASON
This month, Peter Wrapson is harvesting runner beans, pinkberries and mulberries
47 GOOD MORNINGS
Get the day off to a great start with these seven ideas for healthy, homemade breakfasts – one for every day of the week
10 WE LOVE
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Cherry crème fraîche ripple ice cream, p78 Bulgogi burger, p58 Dukka-rolled labneh, p71 Beef with chimichurri, p62
65 A MOVABLE MEZZE
Slow-cooked tomato & merguez spaghetti, p38
Forget the scotch eggs, curledup sandwiches and sausage rolls. Spice up your picnic with these Middle Eastern dishes
Sweet potato & pecan bread, p50 Whole crispy duck with cherry hoisin sauce, p74
73 MY CHERRY AMOUR
Summer wouldn’t be summer without a bowl of cherries. Make the most of them now – they have a short season and won’t be around for long
93 THE GUIDE
Meal planning made easy: a whole month’s worth of delicious meals, snacks and drinks you’ll want to make
Roasted aubergines with dukka & tahini, p44 Courgette & cheese snake-style borek, p67
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104 HOW TO MAKE
Neopolitan ice cream: why be content with just one flavour when you can have three?
106 CLASSIC
You won’t get in a pickle making this traditional accompaniment to a hearty ploughman’s lunch
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Swedish smashed hash, p49
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GARDEN HARVEST SALAD & STRAWBERRY DRESSING
Up the garden path A wander through Mr O's backyard reaps ripe rewards – plump veg, juicy fruits, fragrant herbs. It's the season's bounty on your plate Recipes Jamie Oliver Styling Ginny Rolfe Photography Tara Fisher
SLOW-COOKED TOMATO & MERGUEZ SPAGHETTI
GARDEN HARVEST SALAD & STRAWBERRY DRESSING
Use all the young new growth of the vegetables. Anything budding that is edible – flowers, herbs, leaves, new bay leaves, and so on. Serves 4 • 2 garlic cloves, peeled • 200g strawberries (about 5–6 large berries) • 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 200g mixed salad leaves • 100g soft herbs (such as chervil, basil, mint, oregano, bay leaves) 1 Finely grate the garlic cloves into a bowl, then coarsely grate over the strawberries. Add the olive oil and balsamic, and season well. 2 Combine the salad leaves and herbs in a serving bowl, then serve with the dressing on the side. Per serving 208 cals, 18.4g fat (2.6g sat fats), 1.9g protein, 8.7g carbs, 6.7g sugars 2014 Pecorino Terre di Chieti IGP, Abruzzo (Italy), £7.99, Morrisons
W
hether you’re growing your own veg and fruit, or just taking advantage of the most productive time of year in our soils, this is all about one super-colourful, giant garden harvest. Farmers’ markets, allotments, supermarkets, back gardens, window-boxes and grow bags… everywhere is buzzing with gorgeous, seasonal produce at its best right now, so make sure you take advantage of the extensive variety the country has to offer. When there’s so much available, it can be hard to know where to start – simply because there’s so much choice! This is a good problem to have, of course, but to help you out I’ve pulled together a wide range of dishes that all
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love, love, love summery garden produce and push their gorgeous natural flavour to the max. From killer aubergines, lovely stuffed courgettes and beautiful baby globe artichokes to risottos and quiches to die for, these dishes will help you celebrate summer and remind yourself just how great humble veg and fruit can be when you eat them in season. I really hope you enjoy my garden story. If you’re interested in growing (which, if you haven’t already tried, I highly recommend), or simply finding out more about the latest seasonal bounty, check out jamieoliver.com. Here my gardener (and all-round nice bloke!) Peter Wrapson has a blog packed with wonderful gardenrelated nuggets. Happy days!
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SLOW-COOKED TOMATO & MERGUEZ SPAGHETTI
This is a celebration of all the fabulous tomatoes around in August, combined here with spicy merguez sausages. Look for the best ricotta possible – we used wonderful Westcombe. Serves 4 • 16 small merguez sausages (or 8 regular-sized sausages) • Olive oil • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced • 1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped • ½ celery heart, finely sliced • 1kg mixed cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 bay leaves • 1 red chilli, halved lengthways • A small bunch each of oregano, marjoram and thyme • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 320g dried spaghetti or linguine • 80g ricotta
ARTICHOKES ALLA ROMANA
SPICED MUESLI BARS
Good mornings Cereals, spreads and sauces can be high in hidden sugars. Trade them for these healthy homemade breakfasts, which are free from added sweeteners and bursting with natural flavours Recipes Georgina Hayden Photography Maja Smend
SWEET POTATO & PECAN BREAD
Fire up the grill and impress your mates with mouthwatering dishes from some of the best barbecue street food traders around the country Photography Emma Lee Styling Susie Theodorou
SOUVLAKI WITH TZATZIKI & TRIPLE-COOKED CHIPS
BULGOGI BURGER
SWEET-HEAT BABY BACK RIBS
A movable
MEZZE
With their enticing medleys of spices, these transportable Middle Eastern dishes bring extra warmth to long, lazy picnic days Recipes & styling Joss Herd Photography Gareth Morgans
BEETROOT FALAFEL WITH RED ONION & RADISH RELISH
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: HARISSASPICED ROASTED CAULIFLOWER, POTATO & CHICKPEAS; PEA, BROAD BEAN, PISTACHIO & HERB SALAD; GRATED RAW CARROT SALAD WITH PINE NUTS & BARBERRIES
My cherry
amour Nothing says summer like shiny, succulent cherries. We love them in puddings, but they work a treat in savoury dishes, too. Take your pick! Recipes & styling Jodene Jordan Photography Jonathan Gregson
ginger, garlic and chilli flakes and fry for 1 minute until lightly golden. 6 Add the cherries, turn the heat down a little and cook for 2 minutes before adding the rest of the ingredients and a splash of water. Turn the heat right down and simmer for 5–10 minutes, mashing the cherries from time to time until they are soft and the sauce is thick. 7 Remove from the heat and blitz with a stick blender until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool. 8 Remove the duck from the oven, transfer to a board or large plate, loosely cover with foil and allow to rest for a good 10 minutes. 9 In a small bowl, toss together the cherries, chilli, vinegar and sugar. 10 Shred the duck and serve with warmed pancakes, hoisin sauce, spring onion, cucumber, basil and the pickled cherries and chilli. Per serving 452 cals, 34.2g fat (9.8g sat fats), 19.5g protein, 16.7g carbs, 7.2g sugars
CHERRY CREME FRAICHE RIPPLE ICE CREAM
Makes 1 litre, serves 10 • 200ml semi-skimmed milk • 2 tbsp runny honey • 250g caster sugar • 600ml crème fraîche • 250g cherries, halved and stoned • Caramel wafers or ice cream cones, to serve 1 Put the milk, honey and 200g of sugar in a saucepan over a low heat and whisk gently until the sugar has dissolved. Leave to cool a little. 2 Put the crème fraîche in a large mixing bowl, then whisk in the cooled milk mixture. Pour into an ice cream machine and churn for 1½–2 hours. 3 Meanwhile, put the cherries in a small saucepan with the remaining sugar and a splash of water, bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer gently for 20–25 minutes, mashing occasionally until the cherries are soft and you have a thick, syrupy juice. Set aside to cool. 4 When the ice cream is almost frozen, ripple through the cooled cherry compote (the more you mix, the darker the colour of the ice
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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: YELLOW CHERRY JAM; CHERRY CHUTNEY; PRESERVED WILD CHERRIES
cream; for big hits of cherry, just ripple it a little), then transfer to a freezable container. Put in the freezer for about 30 minutes until it is a scoopable consistency. 5 Serve sandwiched between caramel wafers or scooped into cones. Per serving 355 cals, 24.4g fat (16.5g sat fats), 2.2g protein, 33.8g carbs, 33.6g sugars
YELLOW CHERRY JAM
Makes 1 x 420g jar • 800g yellow cherries, such as golden rainier, halved and stoned (see note) • 200g golden caster sugar • Juice of 1 lemon 1 Put all the ingredients in a large pan along with 250ml of water.
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2 Place the pan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Once boiling, turn the heat down and simmer for 50–60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick and glossy. To test that the jam is ready, spoon a little onto a cold plate (put it in the fridge for a few minutes beforehand). If it sets into a jelly, it’s ready; if it doesn’t, simmer for a few minutes more and test it again. 3 Once the jam is ready, allow to cool a little before pouring into a sterilised jam jar (read how on p109). Note Yellow cherries are less tart than their red cousins and have a creamier texture, which makes them ideal for making jam. You can buy them in supermarkets. Per serving 46 cals, 0g fat (0g sat fats), 0.2g protein, 11.8g carbs, 11.8g sugars
Sprinkle with chopped nuts or drizzle over melted chocolate for the ultimate ice cream sensation
CHERRY CREME FRAICHE RIPPLE ICE CREAM
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QUEEN OF THE
SOUTH
From its medieval ramparts to the fougasse that sustains its citizens, Avignon offers alluring beauty, bustling bistros and market-fresh produce nonpareil. Paul Dring rediscovers the Provenรงal city of his youth and loses his heart all over again Photography Anthony Lanneretonne
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Above: Fougasse is Avignon’s staple food; the family of bakers Céline and mum Geneviève have been making the best in town since 1931. Opposite, clockwise from top: the Palais des Papes was the home of the papacy in the 14th century; Rue des Teinturiers hosts Avignon’s fringe festival; Spirit de St-Honoré is on the dessert menu at L’Agape restaurant.
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river island, caused by a split in the Rhône to the west of Avignon. It is this island that Pont St-Bénézet, the bridge from the song, fails to reach, the city burghers having tired of continually rebuilding it after floodwater damage 350 years ag0. Driving along leafy lanes, it’s hard to credit I’m only five minutes from the city. Sturdy, stone farmhouses are softened by profusions of violet bougainvillea; rows of peach trees are interspersed with wild poppies; and fields of wheat susurrate in the breeze, their edges delineated by poplars and by flaming tongues of Van Gogh cypresses. Beyond Barthelasse, across the Rhône’s western arm, is the ‘new town’ of Villeneuvelez-Avignon. New is a relative term: it was founded in 1293, compared to Avignon in the 6th century BC, and retains an old-world charm while being a little more spacious and peaceful than its neighbour. It’s certainly quiet this afternoon. The only sound to break the hush, through one open window, is a schoolboy receiving a cello lesson, who is busy scratching Saint-Saëns into submission. I’m here to visit Moulin de la Chartreuse, where they’ve been producing olive oil since the 14th century. The mill is part of the old Carthusian monastery and back in the day it was the monks who turned the grindstones. Today, farmers throughout the region send their olives to be cold-pressed on the mill’s state-of-the-art equipment. The resultant award-winning oil can be bought on site or enjoyed as part of a meal in the restaurant. On my final evening, the strands of my trip come together in a memorable dinner at L’Agape, a bistro run by chef Julien Gleize and
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his wife Anne, who looks after front of house. It’s hard to decide which dish I enjoy most. The langoustine with white asparagus and parmesan, dressed with a lemon-confit foam? Or the veal tartare, which features caperberries and an egg yolk marinated in sherry vinegar? Or maybe the pudding, a deconstructed St-Honoré, which wows with little beignets filled with strawberry parfait? Whichever, I wish this were my local restaurant. Afterwards, I walk up to the Palais des Papes. Aside from a few late-night promenaders and a waiter stacking chairs, I have the square to myself. Again I recall those nights, decades ago, when I was here last. They say you should never revisit your old stamping grounds, that you’ll only be disappointed. But while my second time in Avignon hasn’t featured guitars or acrobats, it has left me with a richer appreciation of this beautiful city – a place of stunning architecture and wonderful food that, whatever your stage of life, will offer you irresistible reasons to fall in love with it.
City Guide EAT & DRINK L’Agape Place des Corps Saints 21; +33 4 90 85 04 06; restaurantagape-avignon.com. Cracking bistro from local husband-and-wife team. L’Atelier des Thés Place des Corps Saints 17; +33 4 90 82 69 53. Good, honest food and warm service. EAT Rue Mazan 8; +33 4 90 83 46 74; 6 03 41 99 81; restaurant-eat.com. Franco-Spanish restaurant that’s a lovely spot for lunch. Fou de Fafa Rue des Trois Faucons 17; +33 4 32 76 35 13. Popular bistro run by ex-pat English couple. Mazet des Papes Chemin du Mazet 634, Sauveterre; +33 4 90 02 22 35; mazet-des-papes.fr. Organic farm on Ile de la Barthelasse, open for meals at the weekend. Numéro 75 Rue Guillaume Puy 75; +33 4 90 27 16 00; numero75.com. Elegant restaurant in the south of the city. Reserve a table in the leafy courtyard for lunch. Restaurant Librairie l’Ami Voyage Rue du Prévot 5; +33 4 90 82 41 51. Reasonably priced, home-cooked food on ground floor of a bookshop.
Restaurant l’Essentiel Rue de la Petite Fusterie 2; +33 4 90 85 87 12; restaurantlessentiel.com. Fine dining with Provençal flourishes. SHOP Aline Géhant Rue des Trois Faucons 15; +33 4 90 02 27 21; agchocolatier.e-monsite.com. Eponymous boutique displaying the creations of a talented chocolatier. Cafés au Brésil Rue des Fourbisseurs 24; +33 4 90 82 49 71. Packed with hundreds of coffee and tea blends and coffee-making curios. Distillerie Manguin Chemin des Poiriers 784; +33 4 90 82 62 29; manguin.com. Specialises in fruit and herb liqueurs, sold in onsite shop. Try the poire william and olive varieties. La Fabrique des Saveurs Rue Grivolas 2; +33 4 90 86 16 61; lafabriquedessaveurs.com. Boulangerie famous for its awardwinning fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes. Les Halles market Place Pie; +33 4 90 27 15 15; avignon-leshalles.com. Vibrant food market showcasing the variety and quality of Provençal food. Moulin à Huile de la Chartreuse Rue Pouzaraque, Villeneuve ; +33 4 90 25 45 59; moulindelachartreuse.com.
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Illustration: Emma Tissier
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