Event & City Guide Paris by Mark Williamson

Event&CityGuide

*contents

*08 the venue *14 the events *26 the host

* Introduction * Welcome

To the second edition of the CPhI, ICSE and P-MEC Event & City Guide which gives an in-depth insight on what to expect at the shows but also provides valuable information about this year’s venue and host - Villepinte and Paris.

* The Venue Over the last 20 years, Paris-Nord Villepinte has built an unbeatable reputation for hosting national and international professional events, such as trade shows, fairs, and corporate events. The exhibition centre’s unique location makes it one of Europe’s foremost exhibition and convention sites.

* The Events From the 3rd to the 5th October 2006, CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC Worldwide will open its doors at Paris-Nord Villepinte in France, welcoming over 21,000 pharmaceutical decision makers from over 110 countries. CPhI, ICSE and P-MEC, together the leading exhibition on pharmaceutical ingredients, outsourcing and machinery.

* The Host Paris is the capital and largest city of France. It is also the capital of the Île-de-France région that, encompassing Paris and its suburbs, represents France’s most dynamic centre of economical activity. Paris is a leading global cultural, business and political centre and is renowned for its defining neo-classical architecture as well as its role as a major international influence in fashion, gastronomy and the arts. Dubbed “the city of light” since the 19th century, Paris has a reputation as the most romantic city in the world.

* Maps Comprehensive free maps are available in just about any public place in Paris, the best one being the offering from Galleries Lafayette (see “The Host” pages). However, to get yourself acquainted with the “la ville lumière”, a selection of various maps are provided at the back of the publication.

“Looking forward to welcoming you to CPhI, ICSE and P-MEC at Villepinte, Paris Nord 3rd – 5th October 2006”

*Welcome

CPhI, now in its 17th year, is the world’s leading pharmaceutical trade exhibition and has established itself as the pharmaceutical meeting place. Bringing together over 1500 firms from around the world who not only make APIs, excipients and intermediates but increasingly, more diverse ingredients such as natural extracts, tissue media cultures and enzymes. CPhI will feature special pavilions that enable attendees to meet with companies from specific countries or with specific products and are located in Halls 5A and 6. This year our special pavilions include Brazil, Japan, China, India, France, Korea, USA, CCPIT and SOCMA. This year ICSE (International Contract Services Expo) and P-MEC (Pharmaceutical Machinery and Equipment Convention) with over 250 exhibiting companies are located in Hall 4. ICSE offers such a range of pharmaceutical outsourcing services that this event, which also incorporates the BioTech Hot Spot, is now well established as the one-stop shop for outsourcing services. Companies exhibiting can ensure products are tested, analysed, taken through clinical trials, packaged, marketed and distributed. BioTech Hot Spot - All companies ‘into’ biotech will be easy to locate and can be found at the specially developed ‘BioTech Hot Spot Pavilion’. Truly a focus point for every individual interested in the huge potential this fast-growing industry has to offer! Having made its successful debut last year in Madrid P-MEC is growing in size, from chemical analysis and testing instruments to filtration systems, extraction lines to highly automated packaging and drug-filling equipment , P-MEC will showcase state-of the art products guaranteeing increased production capacity, efficient use of resources and better technical compliance. What’s new for 2006? We are delighted to invite you to the first Visitor Networking Dinner, held in the relaxed and elegant surroundings of the Hilton Charles de Gaulle Airport, the Visitor Networking Dinner will give you the perfect opportunity to network with your fellow attendees. During the champagne reception and the sumptuous three-course dinner there will be plenty of time to get to know one another, to gain insight into a wide range of business practice and to exchange ideas and opinions. This Event & City Guide offers an overview of all essential information regarding Villepinte, Paris airports, transport and Paris centre; places of interest, culture and maps and is an invaluable source in the lead upto and during the events. It just remains for me to wish everyone visiting and exhibiting at CPhI, ICSE and P-MEC a hugely successful event for 2006.

Kate Chambers, Group Exhibitions Director, CMP Information

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THE VENUE *10 Background *11 Venue Plan *12 Facilities *12 Travel - to and from

Background

Outside Hall 5A

International drawing power Over the last 20 years, Paris-Nord Villepinte has built an unbeatable reputation for hosting national and international professional events, such as trade shows, fairs, and corporate events (conventions, seminars, workshops, forums, product launches, gala evenings, anniversary celebrations, and much more). The exhibition centreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique location makes it one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost exhibition and convention sites.

A venue at the crossroads of Europe Paris-Nord Villepinte is situated in an ideal location just a few minutes from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle international airport, Le Bourget business airport, and its TGV high-speed train link serving over 50 towns and cities in France; the rest of Europe is served by Thalys train lines (direct links to Brussels, Amsterdam, and Cologne) and Eurostar (from Gare du Nord). The venue is located just 20 minutes from the centre of Paris on the RER local rail network . The ParisNord Villepinte heliport provides transfers from Paris via helicopter in 10 minutes.

paris-nord villepinte T +33 (0)1 48 63 30 30 F +33 (0)1 48 63 33 70 info@expoparisnord.com www.expoparisnord.com

Main Concourse

VENUE PLAN

FACILITIES

TRAVEL TO AND FROM

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

General Administration Permanent Exhibitors’ Reception Cybercafe/Information desk - Internet access “Relay” - Tobacconist/News stand Business Centre Air France/Luggage check-in Sales information desk Air France “Boutique Expo”/Cash and Carry Conference Centre 4. Auditorium 401 and 402 Meeting Point 5 Reception Area 5 Meeting Space 6

By road

From Paris • Take the A1 highway (Porte de la Chapelle) or the A3 highway (Porte de Bagnolet) to Lille • Take the A104 highway to Soissons • Follow the signs for “Parc des Expositions” and use the “Visiteurs” exit. From Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport • Take the A1 highway to Paris • Take the A104 highway to Soissons • Follow signs for the “Parc des Expositions”

By rail (TGV)* *TGV = Train à Grande Vitesse (High Speed Train)

The TGV station is located at the heart of Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport between Gates C/D and E/F in Main Terminal 2. It consists of five levels from bottom to top, as follows: • RER and TGV platform level • SNCF Services level– including ticket office and Exhibition Centre Reception an Information Office • Mini- tube level • Pedestrian level leading to Terminal 2 • Street-level; taxi, buses, shuttles, accommodation

Paris RER rail links

By RER train The Exhibition Centre Paris-Nord Villepinte is served by line B of the RER (Réseau Express Régional) which links the Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport to Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuses on a North/ South axis through Paris. The Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport has 2 RER stations: 1 . Airport Charles de Gaulle 1 2. Airport Charles de Gaulle 2 TGV-RER RER line B also serves Orly-Airport. At the Anthony RER station, take Orlyval to the Airport. Paris-Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre is also well accessible from the centre of Paris, as RER line B has five metro stations in the area between “Gare du Nord” and “Denfert-Rochereau”. The RER station where you have to get off to reach the Paris-Nord Villepinte is “Parc des Expositions”. You can also check the website of Paris Metro at www.paris.org requency of trains: F Every 7 to 15 minutes depending on time of day. Travelling time to Paris-Nord Villepinte: 5 minutes from the Roissy-Charles de Gaulle Airport 20 minutes from Paris “ Gare du Nord” 50 minutes from Orly Airport

By air From Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport: The Exhibition Centre is close to the airport. Its two main terminals, 1 and 2, house a number of airlines providing services worldwide. • From Terminal 1: use the mini-tube (“mini-metro”) line to reach to the “Airport Charles de Gaulle 1” RER station. • From Terminal 2: use the moving walkway located at each of the gates C and D to get to the “Airport Charles de Gaulle” TGV-RER station. Air France Services at Villepinte: Air France will have a service desk in the Galleria between halls 4 and 5a during the show. Travellers with Air France tickets with departure from Charles de Gaulle will be able to check in for flights in the afternoon. Air France at Charles de Gaulle Airport: Tel: +33 148 643 979 Fax: +33 148 643 987

perience

THE EVENTS *16 Registration *20 Features *22 Awards *24 Press *25 VIP

Address of venue for taxi transfer Parc d’Expositions PARIS-NORD Villepinte BP 60004 95970 Roissy - CDG Cedex Paris France Tel +33 148633030 info@expoparisnord.com www.expoparisnord.com

Show opening hours Monday 2nd October 2006 12.00 – 17.30 hrs For Exhibitors and registered VIP guests only Tuesday 3rd October 2006 09.30 – 17.30 hrs

Hotels located near to the airport and venue often run a shuttle bus to the venue and it is worth checking on your arrival at your hotel if a shuttle service is available. CMPi has organised free shuttle buses to run between the Charles de Gaulle Airport and Parc d’Expositions PARIS-NORD Villepinte. The stops are located at Terminals 1, 2B, 2C, 2D and 2F. Registration for CPhI visitors is located outside Hall 5 and is for visitors with badges, visitors who have pre-registered but have not received a badge, and for onsite registration. ICSE and P-MEC have their own registration area located outside Hall 4 which is open to all visitors with and without badges

Wednesday 4th October 2006 09.30 – 17.30 hrs

CPhI visitors with badges, press and VIPs go to Hall 6 where a fast track entrance will be located.

Thursday 5th October 2006 09.30 – 16.00 hrs

Cloakrooms are available at the front of each hall as well as other locations throughout the main Galeria.

Please note that Registration for visitors opens at 08.30 every morning on full show days, which is 1 hour prior to the shows and the opening time of the halls. Exhibitors can access the halls from 08.00 every morning

REGISTRATION

Arrival by metro will bring you directly to the venue and halls as will arrival by taxi.

As the first morning of registration can be a busy affair, particularly between 08.30 and 10.30 we would recommend that you consider arriving after 10.30 on the first day to help with the efficient flow of visitors to the shows and to minimise delays.

perience

ICSE Showcase 2005

Take 5 area from CPhI 2005 in Madrid

Internet Point - CPhI 2005

Ask-me hostess in action

Events - Features

The CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC experience

Showcases - During CPhI Worldwide and ICSE Worldwide, the showcases provide an exclusive promotional tool for exhibitors. The showcase is a unique opportunity for companies to present their products and innovations. Open to all visitors of CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC, the showcases are a prominent feature of the events taking centre stage in halls 4 and 6.

Additional Benefits and Special Features

Take 5s - In the halls special areas will provide visitors with the opportunity to ‘take 5’ minutes rest and prepare their next visit.

Every year CPhI, ISCE and P-MEC aim to provide a variety of special features to help make the overall experience for exhibitors and visitors productive, efficient and enjoyable. This year sees new and improved initiatives such as:

Internet Point - During the event we offer a central point where you have access to Internet. This point provides 10 computers where you can go online free of charge. Located towards the rear of Hall 6.

Wayfinders – Located in each hall Wayfinders will help you find the stand number for any exhibitor at the shows.

Catering Services - There are a variety of catering areas around the show in each hall, please refer to ‘Venue Information’ for further details.

Dedicated Pavilions - CPhI will feature special pavilions that enable visitors to meet with companies from specific countries or with specific products and are located in Halls 5A and 6. If you want to meet with representatives of companies from a specific country or association, all you have to do is locate the special Pavilions for countries such as Brazil, Japan, China, India, France, Korea, USA and associations such as CCPIT and SOCMA. BioTech Hot Spot - All companies ‘into’ biotech will be easy to locate and can be found at the specially developed ‘BioTech Hot Spot Pavilion’ located in ICSE Hall 4. Truly a focus point for every individual interested in the huge potential this fast-growing industry has to offer! Ask Me Hostesses – These hostesses are able to answer all kind of questions from where the nearest toilets are to what metro takes you to the city centre or which hall you are in. By wearing special clothing they are very visible to all attendees. For 2006, more hostesses will be part of this programme in order to guide visitors from the entrance into the halls. Since we have three shows taking place at the same time we consider it of high importance that visitors (and exhibitors) will find their way to the right exhibition/hall. Signage on site - Providing clear directions onsite, signage inside the halls and outside reflects the nature and house style of the exhibition collateral.

CPhI Innovation Awards 2006 The CPhI Innovation Awards have now entered their third year. Firmly established as the showcase for exceptional work in developing research and technology they are setting the standards for the pharmaceutical manufacturing industry. Entries are now in for CPhI Worldwide 2006 event taking place at Villepinte, Paris from companies that are at the forefront of developing new products and technology or involved in groundbreaking research. Nominees are featured on the CPhI Worldwide website and will have special nominee trail guide onsite at the exhibition making it easier to locate their stands. During the course of CPhI Worldwide 2006 there will be a comprehensive programme of showcases from many of the exhibitors. These free sessions will give you a great opportunity to find out more from many of the leading practitioners in the pharmaceutical manufacturing industry. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget that each nominated company for the CPhI Innovation Awards will each have the opportunity to give a 20 minute presentation at the Innovation Awards seminars taking place on the showcase areas on 3rd October 2006.Visitors can attend these presentations free of charge. The third edition of these prestigious awards allows visitors the opportunity to listen to the final presentations by the shortlisted nominees in advance of the judges deliberations. The winners will be announced at a special reception on the evening of 3 October.

Outcome of CPhI Innovation Awards from Madrid 2005 Ground-breaking developments awarded industry accolades.

CPhI Showcase in Madrid 2005

On Wednesday 2nd November 2005, an audience of senior professionals from across the fine chemical and pharmaceutical industry waited with baited breath for the results of the judging of the 2nd annual CPhI Innovation Awards. After a day of presentations by each of the seven short-listed nominees, in front of an audience of their peers, it was left to the judges to narrow the field down to the final three. When the announcement came it was C3 Technology (Accentus) with their unique CrystalGEMâ&#x201E;˘ predictive crystallization service that took the top honour. This new innovation significantly increases crystalline screening productivity across the pharmaceutical life cycle. In second place was Lanxess Deutschland, a company renowned as a supplier of intermediates and APIs to the pharmaceutical industry, for its demonstration of best practice in the fluorination of chiral compounds at technical scale. Novasep SAS - Novasep Process took third place with their presentation on the latest advances in preparative supercritical fluid chromatographic separation technologie.

Events - Awards 22

CMP Information CMP Information is a division of CMP information Ltd., part of the London Stock Exchange listed media company United Business Media with headquarters in London. The Netherlands’ office is responsible for the organisation of the world’s leading CPhI, ICSE, Hi and Fi series of pharmaceutical and food ingredient trade shows. The Dutch office also publishes International Food Ingredients (IFI) magazine and organises related conference activities. In 2005 more than 80,000 visitors met over 3,300 exhibiting companies at eleven trade shows taking place around the world.

Background CPhI was launched in 1990 as an international convention on pharmaceutical ingredients and intermediates. This inaugural CPhI attracted 250 visitors for the 16 exhibitors. Today this has grown to an unrivalled 21,000 industry professionals visiting some 1,500 exhibiting companies. CPhI is the leading exhibition on pharmaceutical ingredients and allied industries. Each year the exhibition grows larger with exhibitors and visitors conducting significant levels of business at CPhI. Two sister events, ICSE and PMEC now run alongside CPhI, a tripartite of events that is considered the must attend event for any individual or organisation within the pharmaceutical manufacturing community. ICSE (International Contract Services Expo) offers such a range of pharmaceutical outsourcing services that this event, which also incorporates the BioTech Hot Spot, is now well-established as the one-stop shop for outsourcing services and companies exhibiting can ensure products are tested, analysed, taken through clinical trials, packaged, marketed and distributed. BioTech Hot Spot - All companies ‘into’ biotech will be easy to locate and can be found at the specially developed ‘BioTech Hot Spot Pavilion’. Truly a focus point for every individual interested in the huge potential this fast-growing industry has to offer!

Events PRESS

Having made its successful debut last year in Madrid P-MEC (Pharmaceutical Machinery and Equipment Convention) is growing in size, from chemical analysis and testing instruments to filtration systems, extraction lines to highly automated packaging and drugfilling equipment, P-MEC will showcase state-of the art products guaranteeing increased production capacity, efficient use of resources and better technical compliance. If you would like information about CMP Information, or any of the events, please e-mail cphi@cmpi.biz

The VIP Programme for Exhibitors and Visitors CMPi, organisers of CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC 2006 have once again expanded the VIP programme and are pleased to invite and welcome all registered VIPs to the newly introduced extra open day which is for exhibitors and their guests only. During the entire show VIPs have access to the special VIP room. and are entitled to: • A Free Event & City Guide for CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC 2006. • Fast track access to CPhI Worldwide, ICSE and P-MEC exhibitions. • Free cloakroom service on production of VIP badge. • A warm welcome at the Exhibitor Cocktail Party featuring the CPhI Innovation Awards. • A free copy of show catalogues for CPhI, ICSE and P-MEC. •F ree access and reserved seats to the Showcase Seminars of both CPhI and ICSE. •F ull use of the VIP Lounge and facilities including fax, photocopier, Internet connection, outside telephone line and taxi booking service and free gift to be collected from the VIP Lounge. The location of the lounge will be in Hall 6.

Events VIP

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29 27

THE HOST - PARIS *28 Essential Information *31 Parlez-vous Fran莽ais? *34 H么tel Paris *38 Classical Paris *46 Veiled Paris *55 Native Paris *57 Paris by Arrondissement

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION Personal Security Paris is like any other world capital when it comes to personal safety therefore common sense and care should also be exercised when out. For example avoid poorly lit or isolated places and beware of pickpockets especially on the Metro during rush hour. Keep all valuables securely concealed and if you carry a handbag or case never let it out of your sight. When travelling late at night it is a good idea to avoid long transfers in metro stations, such as Montparnasse and Chatelet-Les Halles. Generally areas around RER train stations tend to attract groups of youths from outlying areas who come to Paris for entertainment and may be unruly. Places to be particularly careful in terms of pickpocketing include Montmartre, Pigalle, the area around Forum des Halles and the Centre Pompidou, the Latin Quarter and below the Eiffel Tower.

Telephones To use a Paris payphone you generally need a card (telecarte) which can be bought from tabacs, post offices and some newsagents, these are available in 50 and 120 units. Most new mobile phones brought from another European or Mediterranean country can be used in France however US based mobiles need to be ‘triple band’ to be used in France. In case of emergencies dial 17 Directory enquiries dial 12 International directory enquiries dial 32 12 International telegrams dial 0800 33 44 11

Paris Arrondissements The districts or arrondissements of Paris are numbered 1 to 20. The first three numbers of the postcode 750 (sometimes 751) indicate Paris: the last two give the arrondissement number. The first arrondissement’s postcode is 75001

Business Hours Most museums are closed on either Monday or Tuesday each week. Small businesses are open daily except Sunday and sometimes Monday, hours are usually 9am or 10am to 6.30pm or 7pm usually with a midday break from 1pm to 2pm. Banks usually open from 8am or 9am to between 1130am and 1pm and then 130pm or 2pm to 430pm or 5pm, Monday to Friday or Tuesday to Saturday. Exchange services may end 30 minutes before closing time. Most Post Offices open 8am to 7pm weekdays and 8am to noon Saturdays. Restaurants generally open from noon to 2.30pm for lunch and 730pm to between 10pm and midnight. Only brasseries serve full meals continuously throughout the day. Be aware that the majority of restaurants in Paris are closed on Sunday’s.

Electricity France runs on 220V at 50Hz AC. Plugs are the standard European type with two round pins.

Medical Care All European Union nationals are entitled to French Social Security coverage. However treatment must be paid for and hospital rates vary widely. Reimbursements may be obtained if you are carrying Form E111 (available free to EU citizens) but the process can be long and involved. All travellers should consider purchasing travel insurance and obtain a Form E111 in case of emergencies. Non-EU nationals must carry their own medical insurance. There are many pharmacies throughout the city, recognised by the green crosses on the shop front.

Medical Centres American Hospital

63 Blvd Victor-Hugo, 92200 Neuilly. Tel 01 46 41 25 25

British Hospital

3 Rue Barbes 92300, Levallois-Perret. Tel 01 46 39 22 22

Centre Medical Europe

44 Rue d’Amsterdam 75009 Tel 01 42 81 93 33

Dental Care SOS Dentaire – 87 Blvd de Port Royal Tel. 01 43 36 36 00 A private dental office that also offers services when most dentists are off duty Hopital de la Salpetriere – rue Bruant Tel 01 42 16 00 00 The only dental hospital with extended hours. After hours use the emergency entrance 83 Blvd de l’Hopital

Late opening chemists Les Champs 84 av des Champs-Elysees (24/7) Pharmacie Daumesnil 6, place Felix-Eboue (24/7) Pharmacie Europeenne 6 place Clichy (24/7)

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION Credit Cards In Paris,Visa (known locally as Carte Bleue) is the widely accepted credit card, followed by MasterCard (Eurocard). Amex cards can be useful at more upmarket establishments and allow you to get cash at some ATM’s. Amex (Tel. 01 47 77 72 00, 01 47 77 70 00) Diners Club (Tel. 08 10 31 41 59) MasterCard/Eurocard ( Tel. 08 00 90 23 90, 01 45, 67, 53, 53) Visa/Carte Bleue (Tel. 08 92 70 57 05, 08 92 69 08 80)

Tipping French law requires that restaurant, café and hotel bills include a service charge (usually 12 to 15%). A word of warning, Service Compris (service included, often abbreviated as S.C. at the bottom of the bill) means that the service charge is built into the price of each dish; Service non-compris (service not included) or service en sus (service in addition) means that the service charge is calculated after the food and/or drink you’ve consumed has been added up. In either case you pay only the total of the bill so a tip (pourboire) on top of that is neither necessary nor expected in most cases.

Lost or Stolen Official Documents For passports, driving licences etc. in all cases go to the nearest police station to declare the loss or theft and keep your copy of the statement for future use. For the nearest police station, contact: Prefecture de police 9, Bd du Palais Tel 01 53 71 53 71

Embassies Australia +33 1 40 59 33 00 Brazil +33 1 42 25 92 50 China +33 1 47 23 36 77 Germany +33 1 42 99 78 00 India +33 1 40 50 71 71 Italy +33 1 45 44 38 90 Japan +33 1 44 43 18 18 Netherlands +33 1 43 06 61 88 South Africa +33 1 45 55 92 37 Spain +33 1 44 43 18 18 UK +33 1 42 66 91 42 USA +33 1 43 12 22 22 30

parlez-vous francais? Where is French Spoken? French is spoken by over seventy millon people world-wide. France is the main centre for the language, but the French language is also spoken widely in parts of Belgium, Canada, Switzerland, Italy, USA and Africa. The Alphabet The French use exactly the same 26-letter alphabet as in English. The five vowels are the same, although their pronunciation differs somewhat, and accents may be used on many letters as described below. Accents Acute (é) and grave (à, è, ù) accents are used in French, and are called l’accent aigu and l’accent grave respectively. The circumflex (circonflexe) accent (â, ê, î, ô, û) may be used on any of the five vowels. The grave and circumflex accent marks are often used to distinguish between homonyms. There are two other accents used in French; one is the diaereses (tréma) (ä, ë, ï, ö, ü), and occurs in only a very few words. It indicates that two adjacent vowels must both be pronounced. The final accent is called cedille and may occur only on the letter c. It indicates that it should be pronounced softly (like s, rather than the hard k). Unusually, this accent is marked below the character, thus: ç. Consonants (and combinations) b

like b in boy

like v in vase

like c in peace, or otherwise like c in cat (always hard with cedille)

like w in window

like y in year

like sh in shadow

like z in zoo, but softer

like d in dog (generally silent at the end of a word)

Vowels

like f in fish

like ea in heart

before a, u or o - like g in gymnastics otherwise like g in go

(â)

as above but more open

like ni in onion

like u in butter, but longer

silent

(é)

like ay in day, but sharper

like g in germ, but much softer

like k in king

(è, ê) as above but more open i

like ee in feet, but shorter

like l in lime

like o in more, or (generally when at the end of a word) like o in no

like m in me

like ew in pewter, but with lips more pursed

like n in nice (generally silent at the end of a word)

like p in pit (generally silent at the end of a word)

like qu in quick, but harder

rolled/trilled like r in Spanish or Scottish (generally silent at the end of a word)

like s in sit, or like s in nose (generally silent at the end of a word)

like t in tape, but softer (generally silent at the end of a word)

parlez-vous francais? Greetings Hello Good day Good evening Good night Hi Good bye See you soon

Days & Time of Day Bonjour Bonjour Bonsoir Bonsoir Salut Au revoir A bientôt

General Responses Yes No That depends I don’t know I don’t think so I suppose so I think so It doesn’t matter I don’t mind Of course True With pleasure

Oui Non Cela dépend Je ne sais pas Je ne crois pas Je suppose que oui Je crois que oui Ça ne fait rien Cela m’est égal Bien sûr Vrai Avec plaisir

Question Words Where? When? Why? What? Who? How? How much/many? Is/are there?

Où? Quand? Pourquoi? Qu’est-ce que/qui...? Qui? Comment? Combien? Y a-t-il?

Colours Black White Grey Red Yellow Blue Orange Pink Green Brown Purple

noir(e) blanc(he) gris(e) rouge jaune bleu(e) orange rose vert(e) brun(e) violet(te)

Morning Afternoon Evening Night Yesterday Today Tomorrow Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Last, previous Next

le matin l’après-midi le soir la nuit hier aujourd’hui demain lundi mardi mercredi jeudi vendredi samedi dimanche dernier (dernière) prochain(e)

The Weather it’s sunny it’s nice it’s cold it’s hot it’s snowy it’s rainy it’s windy Storm Changable

il y a du soleil il fait beau il fait froid il fait chaud il neige il pleut il y a du vent un orage variable

Year & Time of Year Summer Winter Spring Autumn January February March April May June July August September October November December

l’été l’hiver le printemps l’automne janvier février mars avril mai juin juillet août septembre octobre novembre decembre

common words & Phrases Numbers 0 to 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

19 zero un deux trois quatre cinq six sept huit neuf dix onze douze treize quatorze quinze seize dix-sept dix-huit dix-neuf

20 to 39 20 vingt 21 vingt et un 22 vingt-deux 23 vingt-trois 24 vingt-quatre 25 vingt-cinq 26 vingt-six 27 vingt-sept 28 vingt-huit 29 vingt-neuf 30 trente 31 trente et un 32 trente-deux 33 trente-trois 34 trente-quatre 35 trente-cinq 36 trente-six 37 trente-sept 38 trente-huit 39 trente-neuf

Tens 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

At the Bank dix vingt trente quarante cinquante soixante soixante-dix quatre-vingts quatre-vingt-dix

Which counter do I go to to change money? Pour changer l’argent, c’est à quel guichet? What time does the bank close? La banque ferme à quelle heure? What time does the bank open? La banque ouvre à quelle heure? Is there commission? Y a-t-il un commission?

Larger Numbers 100 cent 1,000 mille 1,000,000 million

I would like to change some travellers’ cheques, please. Je voudrais changer des chèques de voyage, s’il vous plaît.

Ordinals first (1st) premier (1er)

At the Post Office

second (2nd) deuxième (2me) third (3rd) troisième (3me)

What is today’s date? Quelle est la date aujourd’hui? Is the post office open tomorrow? Est-ce que le bureau de poste ouvert demain? How much does it cost to send a letter to Germany? C’est combien pour envoyer une lettre en Allemangne? Three stamps at two Euros each, please. Trois timbres à deux Euros, s’il vous plaît.

Telephoning Abroad I need to telephone England. Je dois téléphoner en Angleterre.

Where is the telephone directory? Où est l’annuaire téléphonique?

It’s the first time I have used a phone in France. C’est le premier fois que je téléphone en France.

I have been cut off. J’ai été coupé(e).

Finding the Shop you need Where is the baker’s? Où est la boulangerie?

Is it near here? C’est près d’ici?

How do I get to the chemist’s, please? Pour aller à la pharmacie, s’il vous plaît?

It’s very near. C’est tout près.

Is there a book shop near here? Y a-t-il une librarie près d’ici?

It’s a fair way away. C’est assez loin.

Can you tell me where I can buy some cheese. Me dire où je pourrai acheter du fromage.

It’s about five minutes on foot. C’est à cinq minutes à pied environ.

Shopping Can we have a look around? On peut regarder?

What size (clothing) is it? C’est quelle taille?

Can I help you? Vous désirez?

How much is it? C’est combien?

I’m just looking. Je regarde seulement.

That is all. C’est tout.

Veuve Clicquot bar

As soon as you enter the Hotel Sezz at 6 Avenue Frémiet you are immediately aware that this is something a little different from the norm. Firstly, there is no check-in desk. Instead, you are greeted by an unpushy yet very helpful Personal Assistant who will be assigned to you for the duration of your stay.. Attention to detail is evident - the lighting fixtures in the lobby, were specially created for the Sezz in the legendary glass workshops of Murano, outside Venice. Vanity tops in the bathrooms are crafted by Boffi, and the taps are signed Dornbracht.Driade made the chairs, and Artelano made the sofas and beds.You may not know these names, but they’re the modern equivalents of the great unsung artisans who stocked the grand palais and hôtels particuliers of Paris in bygone eras. The Hotel Sezz doesn’t shout about any of this. It doesn’t shout at all. It is tucked away from the tourist bustle on a small street in classy Passy, the hushed, opulent neighbourhood where the Bir-Hakeim bridge hits the Right Bank. This is the neighbourhood where Marlon Brando and Maria Schneider cuddled in Last Tango in Paris. Junior Suite

Around the back of the hotel you will find the Grande Dame bar, named for Veuve Clicquot’s most prized champagne cuvée. The bar is a partnership with Veuve Clicquot - the first time the renowned champagne maker has allowed its name to be used by an outsider. The upper seven floors of the hotel contain the hotel’s 27 rooms, of which seven are full suites and seven junior suites. Prices range from 250 euros to 600 euros. All rooms have flat-screen TVs, and of course there’s WiFi as standard. Free. Each room is equipped with a CD/DVD player and FujitsuSiemens flat-screen TV. CDs and movies are available free on request. www.hotelsezz.com

Design interest is a key feature at Hotel Sezz

HOTEL SEZZ 34

EXPOTEL

Expotel Hotel Reservations Ltd is once again pleased to be the officially appointed hotel and travel agent for CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC 2006 at Paris-Nord,Villepinte 3rd - 5th October 2006. Working closely with the show organisers, CMP Information and Paris hotels, Expotel has approximately 3,500 bedrooms per night on hold for exhibitors, visitors and delegates attending CPhI 2006. Expotel has secured the best available room rates across a wide range of hotels to suit all budgets. Expotel can also negotiate further reductions on Paris hotels for those who wish to arrive early or stay post-show to discover the delights of the French Capital. If the hotel of your choice is not featured on our list, we would be delighted to negotiate the best rate and make the booking for you. Please see our contact details below. Hotels can be booked online simply by going to www.expotel.com/CPhI2006.You can also speak to one of our CPhI hotel consultants by calling us on +44 (0) 20 7372 2001 or e-mail CPhI@expotel.com for an up to date list for CPhI 2006. We do advise that hotel rooms are booked as early as possible to avoid disappointment due to the very high demand for hotels in Paris during this period. Expotel will have representatives available onsite at CPhI 2006 to assist with any last minute travel and hotel requirements. Our representative will also have hotel lists for CPhI 2007 taking place at Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy. lease note: Due to the high demand for hotels, Expotel P will be taking full pre-payment on all bookings for CPhI 2006 by credit card or pro-forma invoice. Please note that a 2.5% surcharge will apply to all credit card payments. As a full ABTA and ATOL bound Travel Agent, Expotel can assist with flight bookings to Paris for CPhI,ICSE & P-MEC. Expotel Travel is a full IATA ticketing agency offering competitive rates, flexibility and specialist service. Expotel can also assist with any additional meeting rooms required by exhibitors or visitors across Paris. For further information please go online to www.expotel. com/CPhI2006 or call +44 (0) 20 7372 2001 or e-mail CPhI@expotel.com

There is an alluring surreality about ‘la Geode’ at the museum of Science and Industry

PLORE

Arc de Triomphe

Avenue Champs Elysees

*17 *14 *3

Seine

Trocadero

Tour Eiffel

* Other spots *18 Moulin Rouge *19 Montmartre *20 Sacre Coeur *21 Pantheon *22 Arche de la Defence *23 Marché au Puces *24 La Géode *25 Bois de Boulogne 38

Grand/Petit Palais

Classical Paris If you only have a few days to spend in Paris, listed here are Paris’s most popular tourist spots that, despite their popularity, are a must-see for any first-time visitor to the city. *15

*12

Boulevard Haussman

L’Opera

Place de la Concorde

Jardin des Tuileries

Rue de Rivoli

*6 *5

Palais du Louvre Centre Georges Pompidou

11*

Hôtel de Ville

16*

Museé D’orsay

*13

Quartier Latin Notre Dame

*16

Palais du Luxembourg

10*

Paris’s Top Tourist Attractions Long considered the epitome of style, Paris is arguably the most glamorous city in Europe. It is at once deeply traditional – a village-like metropolis whose inhabitants continue to be notorious for their hauteur – and famously cosmopolitan. While such contradictions and contrasts may be the reality of any city, they are the makings of Paris: consider the tiny lanes and alleyways of the Quartier Latin or Montmartre against the monumental vistas from the Louvre to La Défense; the multiplicity of street markets and old-fashioned pedestrian arcades against the giant underground commercial complexes of Montparnasse and Les Halles; or the aristocratic wealth of the grand quarters against the vibrant chaos of the poorer districts. Sightseeing in Paris is like plunging into ancient history from remains of the old Roman Lutetium, grand medieval abbeys, gothic masterpieces, classical architecture, collections from Napoleonic times, perspectives defined by Haussmann; a remarkable density of artistic and cultural treasures to choose from! 180 museums and monuments for your enjoyment: discover internationally-renowned collections of paintings, sculpture and decorative arts, go in search of iconic emblems, symbols of the influence of an era, take inspiration from a wealth of contemporary heritage – all this makes Paris a capital of the arts, both past and present. Paris is famed throughout the world for the beauty and variety of its monuments. Towers, churches, palaces, archways, bridges or fountains… an extraordinary collection of landmarks that transports us back in time. Of course, Paris wouldn’t be Paris without the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame or Sacré Coeur. And each evening a special magic takes over the city when all these splendid constructions are illuminated! A sense of romance along the Pont Neuf, a shiver in the catacombs or an exotic mood at the Mosque: Paris is also a mix of atmospheres and cultures. From the must-see to the more unusual, all these monuments relate two thousand years of the capital’s history. Most of the monuments in Paris stay open at the weekend and close on one weekday, as well as on some public holidays. They are usually open late one evening a week. Guided tours often need to be booked in advance. With well over 300 places of interest overall in Paris it could be hard to choose what to see particularly if you haven’t got very much time, so to help below is a summary of what is considered the most popular tourist attractions well worth a visit!

Classical Paris 40

Arc de Triomphe (*1 map) www.monum.fr After his greatest victory, the Battle of Austerlitz 1805, Napoleon promised his men “You shall go home beneath triumphal arches”. The first stone of what was to become the world’s most famous triumphal arch was laid the following year. Standing 50m high the viewing platform affords on of the best views in Paris overlooking the grand Champs-Elysees on one side and la Defense the other. Twelve avenues radiate from the Arc at the centre. Some bear the names of important French military leaders, such as Avenues Marceau and Foch.

Avenue Champs Elysees (*2) This street is the capital’s most famous thoroughfare; its breadth is absolutely spectacular. The pavements are wide and their cafes, cinemas and shops attract throngs of people. It had its beginnings in about 1667 and the literal translation means ‘Elysian Fields’. Rond Point des Champs-Elysees is the pretty end, with shady chestnut trees, five star hotels, fine restaurants and upmarket shops line the avenue and nearby streets.

Trocadero – Chaillot Quarter (*3) The village of Chaillot was absorbed into Paris in the 19th century and transformed into an area rich in grand Second Empire avenues and opulent mansions. Some of the avenues converge on the Place du Trocadero, renowned for its elegant cafes, which leads onto Avenue du president Wilson, with a greater concentration of museums that any other street in Paris.

Eiffel Tower (*4) www.tour-eiffel.fr Originally built to impress visitors to the Universal Exhibition of 1889 the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) was meant to be a temporary addition to the Paris skyline. Designed by Guustave Eiffel this industrial monument was the world’s tallest building until 1931, when New York’s Empire State Building was completed. The tower is now the symbol of Paris and attracts 6.2 million visitors every year. Vital Statistics: • Height including antennae is 324m • The top can move in a curve of 18cm under the effect of heat • 1665 steps to the third level • 60 tonnes of paint are used every seven years

Musee d’Orsay (*5) In 1986, 47 years after it had closed as a mainline railway station,Victor Laloux’s beautiful turn of the century building was reopened as the Musee d’Orsay. During the conversion much of the original architecture was retained and the museum was set up to present each of the arts of the period from 1848 to 1914 in the context of the contemporary society and all forms of creative activity happening Musee d’Orsay at the time. Star exhibits include The Gates of Hell by Rodin, Le Dejeuner sur l’Herbe by Manet, Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette by Renoir and La Belle Angele by Gauguin.

Louvre Museum (Palais du Louvre *6) www.louvre.fr The Musee du Louvre, containing one of the most important art collections in the world, has a history extending back to medieval times. First constructed as a fortress in 1190 by King Philippe-Auguste to protect Paris against Vikings raids, it lost its imposing keep in the reign of Francois I, who replaced it with a Renaissance-style building. After that, four centuries of French Kings and emperors improved and enlarged it. One of the more recent additions is the glass pyramid, designed by I M Pei, in the main courtyard from which all the galleries are reached. Star exhibits include the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci, the Venus de Milo and Marly Horses by Guillaume Coustou, however the Musee du Louvre collections span from the birth of great civilisations right up to the 19th century. The museum attracts 5.7 million visitors each year.

Jardin des Tuileries (*7) These formal gardens were once the gardens of the old Palais des Tuileries. They are an integral part of the landscaped area running parallel to the Seine from the Louvre to the Champ-Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.

Palais du Louvre

Place de la Concorde (*8) This is one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most magnificent and historic squares covering more than 20 acres in the middle of Paris. The square originally displayed a statue of King Louis XV but this was replaced by the guillotine where the death toll in the square in two and a half years was 1,119 including Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette and the revolutionary leaders Danton and Robespierre. The grandeur of the square was enhanced in the 19th century by the 3200 year old Luxor obelisk two fountains and eight statues personifying French cities.

Rue de Rivoli (*9) Along the Rue de Rivoli you can find long arcades with shops topped by Neo-Classical apartments that date back to the early 18th century. Shops include makers of expensive menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirts, bookshops and popular department stores.

Classical Paris 42

43 Notre Dame

Notre-Dame (*10) www.cathedraledeparis.com Notre-Dame is a Gothic masterpiece that was built on the site of a Roman temple and stands majestically on the Ile de la Cite, cradle of the city. No other building is so associated with the history of Paris as this one and Pope Alexander III laid the first stone in 1163, marking the start of 170 years of hard work and toil by armies of Gothic architects and medieval craftsmen. At the time it was finished, in 1330, it was 130m long and featured flying buttresses, a large transept, a deep choir and 69m high towers.

Pompidou Centre (*11) www.centrepompidou.fr The Pompidou is like a building completely turned inside out with escalators; lifts, air and water ducts and even the massive steel struts that are the building’s skeleton have all been placed on the outside. These coloured pipes are the most striking feature at the back of the Pompidou Centre and far from being merely decorative, the colours serve to distinguish the pipes’ various functions: air conditioning ducts are blue,water pipes green and electricity lines are painted yellow. The areas through which people move vertically (such as escalators) are red. The white funnels are ventilation shafts for underground areas and structural beams are clad in stainless steel. The architects’ idea was to Centre Georges Pompidou

help the public understand the way the dynamics of a building function. The centre within created by architects, Richard Rogers, Renzo Piano and Gainfranco Franchini, became an uncluttered and flexible space for the Musee National d’Art Moderne. Among the schools represented in the museum are Fauvism, Cubism and Surrealism.

Opera National de Paris Garnier (L’Opera *12) Sometimes this building is compared to a giant weeding cake and its unique appearance is due to a mixture of materials (including stone, marble and bronze) and styles ranging from Classical to Baroque with a multitude of columns, friezes and sculptures on the exterior. The Opera Quarter itself bustles with bankers, stockbrokers, newspaper men, shoppers, theatre-goers and sightseers.

Latin Quarter (*13) Since the Middle Ages this riverside quarter has been dominated by the Sorbonne and acquired its name from the early Latin speaking students. Rue Galande was home to the rich and chic in the 17th century but subsequently became notorious for its taverns. The area is generally associated with artists, intellectuals and the bohemian way of life: it also has a history of political unrest. In 1871 the Place St-Michel became the centre of the Paris Commune and in May 1968 it was the site of the student uprisings.

River Seine (*14) No other European city defines itself by its river in the same way as Paris. The Seine is the essential point of reference to the city: distances are measured from it, street numbers determined by it and it divides the capital into two distinct areas, with the Right Bank on the north side of the river and the Left Bank on the south side. The city is also divided historically, with the east more closely linked to the city’s ancient roots and the west more closely linked to the 19th and 20th centuries. The river today is busy with commercial barges and massive bateaux mouches: pleasure boats cruising sightseers up and down the river. Departures are from Pont de L’alma daily.

Boulevard Haussman (*15) The word boulevard came from the Middle Dutch bulwerc and the boulevards in Paris were constructed in the 17th century to turn areas into fashionable promenades. The boulevards became so famous in the 19th century that the name boulevardier was coined for one who cuts a figure on the boulevards. Lined with cafes, chic shops and department stores Boulevard Haussman attracts large crowds for shopping.

Hotel de Ville

Hotel de Ville (*16) Home of the city council the town hall is highly ornate, with elaborate stonework, turrets and statues overlooking a pedestrianised square which is wonderful at night when the fountains are illuminated. It is now the official residence of the Mayor of Paris.

Grand/Petit Palais (*17) The Grand and Petit Palais were built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900 to stage a major display of French Art. The Petit Palais is arranged around a pretty semi-circular courtyard and garden. Both buildings are similar in style and have Ionic columns a grand porch and dome. The Petit Palais houses the Musee des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, the exhibits are divided into Medieval and Renaissance paintings and 18th century furniture.

Moulin Rouge (*18) The Moulin Rouge was built in 1889 and sits under its trademark red windmill. The Moulin Rouge is famous for the can-can where the wild and colourful dance shows were immortalised in the posters and drawings of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

Montmartre (*19)

Classical Paris 44

By the end of the 19th century the area of Montmartre was a mecca for artists, poets and writers who gathered to sample the cabarets, revues and other exotica which made Montmartreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation as a place of depravity at the time in the eyes of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more upstanding citizens. Cascading steps, streets with old cobblestones, small houses with wooden shutters in narrow, quiet lanes: the charm of Butte de Montmartre is eternal.

Sacre Coeur (*20) Sacred Heart Basillica is perched at the very top of Butte de Montmartre and its Ovoid Dome is the second highest point in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower and affords one of Paris’s most spectacular views; its said you can see for 30km on a clear day. Built in 1873 and completed in 1914 the basilica was not consecrated until 1919. A perpetual prayer cycle that began at the consecration continues to this day.

Sacre Coeur

Pantheon (*21) The Pantheon is a superb example of 18th century neoclassicism but its ornate marble interior is a bit gloomy. Originally commissioned as an abbey church it now is a location for the tombs of France’s good and great. The crypt includes Voltaire,Victor Hugo, Jean Moulin and Louis Braille.

La Defense (Arche de la Defence *22) This skyscraper business city on the western edge of Paris is the largest new office development in Europe and covers 80 ha (198 acres). It was launched in the 1960s to create a new home for the leading French and multi-national companies. Since then, a major artistic scheme has transformed many of the squares into fascinating open-air museums. In 1989 La Grande Arche was added to the complex, an enormous hollow cube large enough to contain Notre-Dame cathedral. The arch now houses an exhibition gallery and conference centre and commands a superb view over the city of Paris.

Marche aux Puces (*23) This is the oldest and largest of the Paris flea markets covering 15 acres. In the 19th century, rag merchants and tramps would gather outside the city limits and offer their wares for sale. Today it is divided into specialist markets and is know especially for its abundance of furniture and ornaments from the Second Empire (1852-1870).

La Geode (*24) The Geode is a 36m high sphere whose mirror-like surface of thousands of polished, stainless-steel triangles has made it one of Paris’ architectural calling cards. Inside, high-resolution, 70mm 45 minute films – on virtual reality, special effects, nature etc – are projected onto a 180 degrees screen that gives a sense of being surrounded by the action.

Bois de Boulogne (*25) The 845 hectare Boulogne Wood on the western edge of the city owes its informal layout to Baron Haussman, who was inspired by London’s Hyde Park. There are many beautiful areas within the Bois. The Pre Catelan is a self contained park with the wildest beech tree in Paris. The Bois has a reputation as a seedy area after dark so is best avoided at night.

La Geode

Avenue Champs Elysees

Musee d lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Armee

* Other spots *8 Place du Tertre *9 Musee du Vin *10 Catacombes *11 Musee Picasso *12 Gare St Lazare *13 Bois de Boulogne Tour Montparnasse 4* *14 Chateau Villette *15 Biblioqtheqe Nationale 46

Musee Rodin

Veiled Paris Hidden just a small side-step away from the well trodden path are many interesting and romantic spots for the visitor who has been to Paris before or fancies something a little different.

La Madeleine

The Ritz

*16 *17

Place Vendome

rue de Rivoli

*17

*19

Saint-Sulpice

Palais du Louvre

*20

Saint-Germain des Pres

St Severin

Champs-Élysées (*1) Marcel Proust lovingly described the elegance of the world’s most famous avenue, the ChampsÉlysées, during its belle epoque heyday, when its cobblestones echoed to the clatter of horses and carriages. Today, there’s still a certain je ne sais quoi about strolling up Les Champs, especially at dusk, as the refurbished streetlamps are just coming on. The café tables are always good for peoplewatching, while the cinemas, nightclubs, and late-hour shoppers ensure the parade continues well into the night. Originally cattle-grazing land, the 2.5km (1 mile) Champs-Élysées was laid out in the 1660s by the landscape gardener André Le Nôtre as a park sweeping away from the Tuileries.

Musee Rodin (*2) The Musée Rodin is an independent Museum with an average of 500,000 visitors a year; it is one of the most popular museums in France, coming after the Louvre, Versailles and the Musée d’Orsay, but ahead of the Orangerie and the Picasso museum. This obviously reflects the popularity and notoriety of Rodin’s work. It also reflects the special charm of the site and its grounds, the whole southern part was remodelled in 1993, but also of the building housing the Master’s works and collections. Everything comes from Rodin, including the chairs, armchairs or sofas where visitors are free to sit down. The Musée Rodin does not set out to reconstitute a period, which would be impossible, but offers the unique charm of an artist’s home where it is pleasant to stroll around at leisure. It is this special quality that characterises the museum and makes it stand out against the backdrop of other French museums.

Musee de l’Armée (*3) The Musée de l’Armée was created in 1905, by merging the Artillery Museum and the Historical Army Museum. It celebrated its 100th birthday in 2005, with the reopening of the western wing, renovated under the ATHENA II project. The Artillery Museum (created during the French Revolution and set in the Invalides in 1871) is, in itself, the heir of two of the most prestigious weapons collections: the collection of the “garde-meuble de la Couronne” and the Condé prince’s collections (Chantilly). From 1852, those two collections were placed in the Invalides, and enlarged with a series of collections coming, among others, from the Bibliothèque Nationale, the Louvre, the artillery in Vincennes, the Hôtel des Monnaies, the Pierrefonds castle, and from numerous acquisitions made during the colonial campaigns, or due to private bequests. The Historical Army Museum was founded in 1896, by a society named “la Sabretache”, whose president, the painter Edouard Detaille, wanted to create, from his own collections, a national military museum, the way the retrospective rooms at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889 had been set. Among the most prestigious collections of the museum, one can list the “ancient weapons and armours” one (the 3rd one in the world), the “artillery scale-models” one (quite unique) and an exceptional ensemble of exhibits, from the 19th century, related to Napoléon I and the marshals of the Empire. The Musée de l’Armée places itself among the greatest art and military history museums in the world. Its situation, at the heart of a military purposed monument, such as the Hôtel National des Invalides, offers an exceptional location. There are few military museums which can offer such a variety of exhibits and cover such large chronological periods.

veiled Paris 48

Tour Montparnasse (*4) When it was built in 1973 this was Europe’s largest office block and was intended as the focal point of a new business sector being revitalised in a run down inner city area. It stands 210m (695 ft) high and is made of steel and smoked glass. The bar, restaurant and observatory on the 56th floor, accessible by lift, offer panoramic views of the city up to 40km on a clear day. A hike up the stairs to the 59th floor reveals an open air terrace.

La Madeleine (*5) This impressive building is actually a church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. In French, Magdalene is known as Madeleine, hence the name of the building. When construction started in 1764, the plans made by architect Pierre Constant d’Ivry called for a design similar to that of the Invalides church. When d’Ivry died in 1777 his designs, which can be seen in the Musée Carnavalet, were dismissed by his successor, Guillome-Martin Couture. He decided to demolish the unfinished building and start with a new design, this time based on the Panthéon. No less than 52 Corinthian columns surround the temple, each of them 20m high. At the front, the columns are topped with a sculpted frieze. The bas relief ’s on the bronze doors are by Henri de Triqueti and represent the Ten Commandments.The temple’s facade acts as a great architectural counterbalance to the colonnaded facade of the Palais Bourbon across the river. Inside behind the altar is a large statue depicting the ascension of Mary Magdalene which was built in 1837 by Charles Marochetti. The church also boasts a pipe organ, built by Cavaillé-Coll in 1846; the organ is still used for concerts.

Ritz Paris (*6) Ever since César Ritz opened the doors of his hotel in 1898, the mere name of this respected institution has become synonymous with luxury. There’s the famed Ritz Escoffier cooking school, where you can learn the finer points of gâteaux; the Hemingway Bar, where Colin Field reigns as a world-ranked bartender; and the Greek styled temple subterranean swimming pool. Guest rooms match a level of luxury; even in the “humbler” spaces, modern conveniences are cleverly camouflaged among the gleaming mirrors, chandeliers, and antiques. The most palatial suites bear the names of famous Ritz residents: the Coco Chanel, the Prince of Wales, and the Elton John.

St Severin (*7) St Severin is the doyenne parish churches of left bank of the Seine. It is one of the most beautiful Parisian churches and is a perfect example of Gothic style. The history of this church starts at the 6th century with Severin, a very pious hermit who lived there. The small oratory which honoured Severin became a vault, then a basilica. After the destruction by the vikings the church was rebuilt and became a parish church during the 11th century. This church Eglise Saint-Severin has the oldest triforium of Paris, a very beautiful ambulatory, circling the chancel, composed of 10 double spans of pillar-palm trees. The burial ground here, which is now a garden, was the site of the first operation for gall stones in 1474.

Place du Tertre (*8) Tertre means hillock or mound and this picturesque square is the highest point in Paris at 130m (435ft). It was once the site of the abbey gallows but is associated with artists who began exhibiting paintings here in the 19th century. It is lined with colourful restaurants, some date back to 1793. Look for the Moulin de la Galette and Moulin Radet, two old style windmills to the west on rue Lepic. Choose the morning time to discover the real charm of the square and have your portrait immortalised by one of the artists who set up their easels in the place.

Musee du Vin (*9) Located near to the Eiffel Tower in central Paris is the Musee du Vin, opened in 1984, it aims to display the full richness and diversity of France’s wine-making heritage. The Wine Museum’s exhibits of tools and memorabilia allow visitors to discover the ancient traditions of viticulture and wine-making. The Wine Museum’s exhibit is displayed in ancient vaults which were first developed in the Middle Ages and later used as cellars by the Minimes Brothers of the Passy Monastery. In this historic setting you can organise lunches for groups, dinners or lectures on the fascinating subject of “wine”.

Artists at le Place du Tertre

Catacombes (*10) In 1786 a monumental project began here: the removal of the millions of skulls and bones from the unsanitary city cemetery in Les Halles to the ancient quarries formed by excavations at the base of the three ‘mountains’: Montparnasse, Montrouge and Montsouris. It took 15 months to transport the bones and corpses across the city in huge carts to there new resting place; the transportation took place at night. Above the door outside are the words “Stop! This is the empire of death”.

Morbidly fascinating - The Catacombes

Veiled Paris 50

Musee Picasso (*11)

The Musée Picasso is situated in the heart of historic Paris, and has a collection of several thousand works of Pablo Picasso. Picasso was born in 1881 and he began to study art in 1895. During his life he created diverse works: painting, sculpture, drawing, ceramics, engraving, and even poetry. After his death in 1973, many of Picasso’s works went to the French state, which decided to form a museum with the collection. To house the collection, they chose to use a seventeenth-century hotel, situated in the Marais. This is the Hôtel Salé that was built in 1656 for the general Aubert de Fontenay. Before housing the Musée Picasso, the hotel was already well-known. It was leased to the ambassador of Venice, and it became the Central School of Art and Manufacture (and then the School of “métiers d’art”), and finally it was leased to the state in 1975. The restoration of the museum was completed in 1985. Today, there are 203 paintings, 191 sculptures, 85 ceramics, and over 3000 drawings, engravings, and manuscripts in the museum. Besides the personal collection of Picasso, the museum also has some works of Cézanne and Matisse.

Gare Saint-Lazare (*12) The beaux arts-style Gare Saint-Lazare was built in the late 1880s to accommodate travelers to Paris’s Universal Expo of 1889, for which the Eiffel Tower was also erected. Though the station now fulfils 21st-century transportation needs, the grandeur of the architecture (which includes some buildings from the 1840s and 1850s) remains. In the right light you can almost imagine the scene that inspired Monet’s 1877 painting Gare Saint-Lazare.

Gare Saint-Lazare

Bois de Boulogne (*13) Until Napoléon III’s time, the 2,200 acre Bois de Boulogne was a wild woods. But the brilliant landscape architect Jean-Charles Alphand, a protégé of Baron Haussman (the prefect who oversaw the reconstruction of Paris in the 1850s and 1860s), created a series of elegant promenades, romantic lakes, and formal playgrounds based on the London-style parks the emperor admired. Le Bois became an immediate hit with Parisians and remains popular today with rowers, joggers, walkers, riders, picnickers, and lovers. Parisian style and elegance are on full display at the French Open tennis tournament, held in late May at the beautiful Roland Garros stadium.

Château Villette (*14) Château Villette is located 30 minutes from Paris, near the Château de Versailles, laid out on a 240-acre spread in 1668 by architect Francois Mansart. Built for the Count of Aufflay, Louis XIV’s ambassador to Venice, the château is not open to the public. Hollywood celebrities and others pay 6,500 euros a day (one-week minimum) to rent the manse, which includes 18 rooms and 17 bathrooms, all decked out in fabulous 17th-century French decor. The famous gardens surrounding the château were designed by André Le Nôtre, mastermind of the gardens at Versailles.

Bibliotheque Nationale (*15) The Bibliotheque Nationale (National Library) originated with the manuscript collections of medieval kings, to which every French book printed since 1537 has by law been added. Commissioned by the late President Francois Mitterrand the controversial 2 billion euro National Library of France, conceived as a ‘wonder of the modern world’ opened in 1998. The national library contains around 12 million tomes stored on some 420km of shelves and can hold 200 readers and 2000 researchers.

Bibliotheque Nationale

The Da Vinci Code; The trail through Paris Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code” has won worldwide recognition. Its success is down to its fascinating blend of intriguing storylines and controversial ideas about religion and belief. For everyone who has read the novel or seen the latest Hollywood adaptation of the story, you will know that much of the first part of the book is set in this year’s host to CphI, ICSE & P-MEC, Paris. Following the main characters and storyline, we follow the hero, Robert Langdon and his exciting travels through Paris… After he gives a talk at the American University of Paris on mysterious runes at Chartres Cathedral, Robert Langdon returns to the famous Ritz Hotel in Place Vendome (*16) for a good night’s sleep. A late-night visit from the police inspector Bezu Fache leaves him shocked: the man with whom he was supposed to meet earlier that day, Jacques Saunière, has been murdered. Jacques Saunière’s body is discovered in the Louvre’s (*17) Denon Wing, not far from two of Leonardo da Vinci’s greatest works, and Langdon is escorted there by the French Police. Near the body, the police have found an enigmatic message. With the help of Saunière’s granddaughter, talented cryptologist Sophie Neveu, Langdon unravels the message: a series of clues that will lead the two on a quest for the Holy Grail. Denon Wing, the Louvre. The Italian painting collection begins at the western end of the Denon Wing;the Mona Lisa is usually in Salle 3. Seek out the paintings by the original Renaissance man, painterengineer-inventor-anatomist Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519). His enigmatic, androgynous St-John the Baptist hangs in Salle 5, along with more overtly religious works, such as the 1483 Virgin of the Rocks.

Continue down the corridor, past masterworks by Raphael and Giuseppe Arcimboldo; you will soon find yourself in the midst of a crowd, approaching the Mona Lisa (properly, La Gioconda, known as La Joconde in French). With all the guards and barriers, it feels as if you are visiting a holy relic, and in some ways you are. This small painting was Leonardo’s favorite. The Mona Lisa has become immortal through Leonardo’s ingenious sfumato technique, which combines glowing detail with soft, depth-filled brushwork. After finding out that he is Prime Suspect for the death of Saunière, Neveu and Langdon flee the Louvre in her SmartCar, heading first to the rue de Rivoli (*18) and then down the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe. Heading north out of the rotary, the car makes a hard right down boulevard Malesherbes and makes a beeline for Gare Saint-Lazare, where Neveu’s purchase of two train tickets to Lille provides a convenient decoy. Having lost the police, Neveu and Langdon head in a cab to Paris’s west side, travelling via the Bois de Boulogne’s Allée de Longchamp to the Depository Bank of Zurich, where a deciphered message from Saunière tells them they will find a “cryptex” (a device whose code must be broken to reveal its contents) that will help in their quest for the Grail. The fictional Depository Bank of Zurich is said to be “adjacent to the Roland Garros tennis stadium,” which is in the park’s southern section. Meanwhile, an albino monk-assassin connected with Opus Dei pays a visit to Saint-Sulpice (*19) in the district of Saint-Germain des Pres (*20), where he searches for a keystone believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. The sole occupant of the church, Sister Sandrine, watches the monk from a distance, but her phone call for help is cut short. Despite the presence of two magnificent Delacroix frescoes, Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and Heliodorus Driven from the Temple, the interior of Saint-Sulpice is quite impersonal. Dubbed the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, this enormous 17th-century church has entertained some unlikely christenings -- those of the Marquis de Sade and the poet Charles Baudelaire, for instance and the nuptials of Victor Hugo. The 18th-century facade was never finished, and its unequal towers add a playful touch to an otherwise sober design. Near the middle of the nave on the right side, you can locate one end of the Rose Line near a stone statue with a Latin inscription. The Rose Line, a narrow brass strip, marks the original zero-longitude line, which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk uses the line as a reference point in his quest for the Holy Grail.You can retrace his path from the stone statue north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St Peter.

Veiled Paris

Native Paris

The population of central Paris is 2.15 million, while the greater metropolitan area has 10.95 million inhabitants or just over 18.5% of France’s total population. Paris is a multicultural society made up of Algerians, Portuguese, Moroccans and Tunisians. The largest Asian assembly is made up of Chinese with a population of 17,300. Parisians have a very strong sense of national identity based on their history, language, culture and pursuit of the finer things in life. Parisians tend to be somewhat shy with strangers but will readily help if approached in a friendly manner. Etiquette is extremely important here and to be correct is all-important! By virtue of its strategic position on the Seine, Paris has always been the economic, political and artistic hub of France. Over the centuries, many prominent and influential figures from other parts of the country and abroad have come to the city and left their mark: artists have brought new movements, politicians new school of thought, musicians and film-makers new trends and architects a new environment. Paris is a bottomless cup when it comes to the arts; its museums are among the richest in the world with artwork representing the best of every historical period and school from the Romans to postmodernism. Parisians traditionally have not been as uncompromising as, say Londoners, in accepting changes to their cityscape. At first glance, much of the architecture of Paris may appear to be the same, six or seven storey apartment blocks in the style of the Second Empire lining grand boulevards and interspersed with leafy squares. However Paris is a treasure trove of architectural styles: from Roman arenas and Gothic cathedrals to postmodernist cubes and glass pyramids that not only look great but serve a function. Cafés quickly became an integral part of French culture from their appearance, namely from the opening of the left bank Café Procope in 1689 and the café Régence at the Palais-Royale one year earlier. The cafés in the gardens of the latter locale became a quite popular through the 18th-century, and can be considered Paris’ first “terrace cafés”; these would not become widespread until sidewalks and boulevards began to appear from the mid-19th century. Cafés are an almost obligatory stop on the way to or from work for many Parisians, and especially during lunchtime. Paris’ culinary reputation has its base in the many origins of its inhabitants. With the early-19th-century railways and ensuing industrial revolution came a flood of migration that brought with it all the gastronomical diversity of France’s many different regions, and maintained through ‘local speciality’ restaurants catering to the tastes of people from all. “Chez Jenny” is a typical example of a restaurant specialising in the cuisine of the Alsace region, and “Aux Lyonnais” is another with a traditional fare originating from its city name’s region. Of course migration from even more distant climes meant an even greater culinary diversity, and today, in addition to a great number of North African and Asian establishments, in Paris one can find top-quality cuisine from virtually the world over. Hotels were another result of widespread travel and tourism, especially Paris’ late-19th century Expositions Universelles (World’s Fairs). Of the most luxurious of these, the Hôtel Ritz appeared in the Place Vendôme from 1898, and the Hôtel de Crillon opened its doors to the north of the place de la Concorde from 1909. What visitors will find in Paris today is a city bursting with creative energy. The most talked about hotels are lavishly decorated in the spirit of the Empire or in a particular French brand of minimalism: the best restaurants combine the talents of the most innovative designers with young chefs trained in traditional French methods but willing to experiment with global cuisine. The grand old fashion houses are still lined up around Faubourg St Honore and the Champs-Elysees and café culture throughout the capital is alive and well, with many an established and revamped terrasse filled with animated conservationists or lone drinkers immersed in le Monde or watching the world go by!

Paris by Arrondissement

Paris is a compact and easily negotiated city with some 20 arrondissements (city districts) which spiral clockwise more or less from the centre and are important locators; their numbers are always included in the address given on business cards, flyers and the internet for example. Each arrondissement has a distinct personality: the 1er had plenty of sights but few residents, the 5e is studenty, the 7e full of ministries and embassies, the 10e has traditionally been working class but is becoming a relatively cheap and trendy district in which to live and the 16e is a basion of the very well-heeled. The following aims to give a helpful summary of each arrondissement.

First & Second The centre of contemporary Paris, formerly also the center of the royal French city as the site of the Louvre and secondary palaces of the Tuileries and Palais-Royal, the 1st Arrondissement is full of attractions for visitors, including some of the finest parks, museums, shops, and bars in the city. The 1st occupies the Right Bank of the River Seine and extends onto the western section of the Ile de le Cité in the midst of the river. For occupying such a compact space, however the 1st feels remarkably different from one end to the other. The almost incredibly upscale western end of the arrondissement gives way to the hustle and bustle of the big city east of the Palais Royal, and then further east to the pedestrian dominated area around Les Halles and Samaritaine, where tourists mix with Parisiens and Parisiennes in huge numbers. The Bourse (Stock Exchange) is the financial hearts of the 2e arrondissement to the north, the Sentier district the centre of its rag trade and the Opera its ode to music and dance. From rue de la Paix, where glittering jewellery shops display their wares to blvd Poissonniere and blvd de Bonne Nouvelle, where stalls and fast-food outlets advertise with garish neon signs, this arrondissement is a real mixture.

By Métro Stations of note Châtelet/les Halles.This hub for the 1, 4, 7, and 11 lines, and the RER A, B, and D lines is the largest and busiest of all Métro stations.There total of seven entrances/exits scattered around the eastern end of the arrondissement, not surprisingly between Les Halles and Place du Châtelet, and of course in the basement of the Les Halles shopping mall itself. Lines Line 1 Stations from east to west: Concorde, Tuileries, Palais Royal/Musée du Louvre, Châtelet/Les-Halles Line 4 Stations from south to north: Cité, Châtelet/LesHalles, Etienne Marcel Line 7 Stations from east to west: Pyramides, Palais Royal/Louvre, Pont Neuf Châtelet/Les-Halles Line 14 The newest métro line, also known as the Météor is worth a little special mention as it is fully automated, with doors designed to prevent you from being pushed you out onto the tracks. Stations from east to west: Pyramides, Châtelet/Les-Halles. RER - A Châtelet/Les-Halles RER - B Châtelet/Les-Halles RER - D Châtelet/Les-Halles RER - E Châtelet/Les-Halles, Pyramides

Landmarks and Museums The Louvre, Jardin des Tuilleries, Place Vendôme, The Palais Royal, Sainte Chapelle, The Orangerie, Theatre du Chatelet.

Eating Out The 1st provides a wide range of eating possibilities, considering its central location and overall poshness. A large variety of inexpensive food is sold out of windows and stalls, especially on the car-free east end of the arrondissement near Les Halles.You will always pay a bit more to sit down. La Crypte Polska, place Maurice Barrés, Métro: Concorde. +33 1 42 60 43 33. Noon-3pm and 7pm to 10pm. Closed Monday. This little Polish restaurant is in the crypt under the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the catholic-mystic decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. Plus the pirogies are about as good as you are going to find in Paris. Expect to pay E12 to E20 per person. La Victoire Suprême du Coeur, 41 rue des Bourdonnais, Métro: Châtelet. At this fully vegetarian restaurant you can get a delicious and hearty fake meat and two veg meal in a pleasant though cultlike atmosphere. E12 to E20. Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli / cour Napoléon du Louvre, Métro: Palais Royal. +33 1 49 26 06 60. Open daily 8 am - 2 pm. Part of the Grand Louvre redevelopment, Café Marly was opened in 1994 and is situated within the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoléon. Patrons can enjoy the direct views of the Louvre Pyramid whilst sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by. Aux Trois Oliviers, 37 bis rue de Montpensier, Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre. +33 1 40 20 03 02. This colourful and non-pretentious restaurant offers a range of dishes from throughout France and around the world. There is live entertainment (chansons français) each Friday night. Expect to spend around E15 per person at lunch and E20 at night. Chez Denise, 5 rue Prouvaires, Métro: Les Halles. +33 1 42 36 21 82. Tuesday-Sunday: noon-2:15pm & 7pm-11pm Monday: 7pm-11pm. This little owner-operated bistro presents traditional French country food in a nearly rustic setting. Starters are from E10-E12 and main courses are E18E25, then there is the wine. La Robe et le Palais 13 rue des Lavandieres Sainte Opportune. +33 1 45 08 07 41. Monday-Sat:urday noon-14:40 & 19:3023:00. A small restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines! 58

Point Bar, 40 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré. +33 1 42 61 76 28. Métro: Opéra or Pyramides. Alice Bardet, the daughter of a famous French chef de cuisine, Jean Bardet has provided a prime example of great French restauranteering for the rest of us as a way of making her own name in the business. She is said to have grown up in her parent’s restaurant, and has brought the style, the techniques, and a feeling for quality ingredients along. Lunchtime Menus start at just E15, but at night when you’ll spend around E40 per person ordering à la carte. Maceo, 15 rue des Petits Champs, Métro: Pyramides. +33 1 42 96 98 89. What was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. The second-empire atmosphere sets the stage for the fantastic food. Starters run E13-E18 and main courses are E25-E28. There is also a Vegetarian menu for around E30.

Drinks The Hemingway Bar, 15 Place Vendôme. Métro: Pyramides. +33 1 43 16 33 65. Hemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it. Afterwords it was his favourite: when in August of 1944 Hemingway made an alcohol powered drive into Paris ahead of the advancing Free French 2nd tank division it was to “liberate the Ritz”, and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter re-named in his honour. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation. Le Comptoir Paris-Marrakech, 37, rue Berger. +33 1 40 26 26 66. Métro: Les Halles. A great drinking and people watching spot on a corner across from the park above Les Halles. Comfy seating and meze snacks are served. Le Cab, 2, Place du Palais Royal, Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre. +33 1 58 62 56 25. Featuring several spaces for divergent tastes, the Cabaret has an all white EasyListener space, a tropical cabana, a gigantic dance floor and more. Expect to pay E8 for beer and E13 for a mixed drink. Le Kong, 1 Rue du Pont Neuf, Métro: Pont Neuf or Châtelet. +33 1 40 39 09 00. Open Friday and Saturday from 12:00 noon, until 30 minutes after midnight. Occupying the fifth and sixth floors of an old Samaritaine building, the Kong is one of the newest entrants among far-east theme bars. The décor is contemporary and elegant, with lots of bright colours and murals inspired by Japanese Manga. A mixed drink will cost you around E10.

Wireless Hotspots There are a number of cafés in the 1st arrondissement which offer Free wireless for drinking customers (for 20 minutes at a time): Le Commerce, 12, rue Coquillère, Métro: Etienne Marcel. Chez Flottes, 2, rue Cambon, Métro: Concorde. Tabac du Châtelet, 8, rue Saint Denis, Métro: Châtelet. Café du Pont Neuf, 14, quai du Louvre, Métro: Pont Neuf. A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service: HotCafe, 56, rue du Temple. +33 1 42 77 35 63.

Third A quieter part of the ancient Marais neighbourhood which is centred in the 4th, the 3rd is possibly one of the best places to live in Paris. There are several good open air markets, a gigantic covered flea market, and lots of great speciality food stores, especially along rue de Bretagne.The museums of the 3rd are among the best anywhere, including the Musée Picasso which contains both the master’s works and his collections, and the almost undefinable Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers which has on display the first prototypes of almost every important invention, including the first monoplane, numerous artifacts from the creation of the Statue of Liberty, and of course, Foucault’s Pendulum.

By Métro Arts et Metiers (3, 11) - most convenient for the Musée des Arts et Metiers, but also within easy walking distance of all the attractions of the 3rd. Republique (3, 5, 8, 9, 11) - located on the northern edge of the 3rd arrondissement, but superbly well-connected and therefore highly convenient.

Landmarks and Museums Musée Picasso, 5 rue de Thorigny, Métro: Chemin Vert. +33 1 42 71 25 21. 09.30 to 06.00 Wednesday to Monday and 09.30 to 08.00 on Thursdays, except during winter when closing time is always 5:30pm. Most of the works by Picasso and others which were in the master’s possession at the time of his death are now on display here. Musée national des Arts et Métiers, 60 rue Réaumur, Métro : Arts et Métiers, RéaumurSébastopol, Bus 20, 38, 39, 47, open Tuesday-Sunday 10.00 - 18.00, Thursday until 09.30, closed Monday and public holidays. Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, 71 rue du Temple. +33 1 53 01 86 60. Musée de la Serrure, 1 rue de la Perle, Métro: Chemin-Vert. +33 1 42 77 79 62. Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzévir, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 1 40 27 07 21.

Eating Out

Le Petit Marché, 9 rue de Béarn, Métro: Chemin Vert. +33 1 42 72 06 67. Open noon to 2:00am every day. This is one of those charming little parisien bistros which is off on its own a little. The waiting staff couldn’t possibly be friendlier so this is a good place to bring people to show them how nice parisien dining can be. The food is in a higher class than the price range. Chez Jenny, 39 boulevard du Temple. +33 1 44 54 39 00. A super popular spot with young parisiens and parisiennes. Chez Janou, 2 Rue Roger Verlhomme. +33 1 42 72 28 41. Chez Janou has such a pretty location that it is worth an evening visit just for that. But the food and atmosphere are also amazing.Vegetarians be warned, the tortellini is not the token veggi dish; there isn’t one. E18 per person. Anahi, 49 Rue Volta. +33 1 48 87 88 24 49. Chicha Café, 30 rue Debelleyme. +33 1 48 87 40 47. Amici Miei, 53 boulevard Beaumarchais. +33 1 42 71 82 62. Page 35, 4 rue du Parc Royal. +33 1 44 54 35 35. The name apparently refers to some section of some newspaper or another apparently with social listings. The carte features fantastic crêpe opportunities making this a must for lunch Le Potager du Marais, 22 rue Rambuteau. +33 1 42 74 24 66. Menus for around E15.

Drinks Les Enfants Rouge, 9, rue de Beauce. +33 1 48 87 80 61. A completely traditional french bistro with a popular bar in the evenings. Andy Wahloo, 69 rue des Gravilliers. +33 1 42 71 20 38. Andy Wahloo apparently means “I don’t have anything” in Arabic. The Moroccan artist who owns this place certainly means it as a play on words having done the decor as a Moorish take on Andy Warhol. Café des Musées, 49, Rue de Turenne. +33 1 42 72 96 17. A fairly standard and absolutely unpretentious bistro the des Musées is a great place. Les Arts et Métiers, 51 rue Turbigo. +33 1 48 87 83 25. An updated but otherwise standard Brasserie the draw here is the crowd: young trendy locals love the place. Café Solo, 6 rue Dupuis. Located on a newly carfree street the Solo has a huge music collection which they are in the process of selling off at E6 per CD. The Quiet Man, 5, rue des Haudriettes. +33 1 48 04 02 77. This Irish pub has sessions and Irish music almost (but not quite) nightly. Léonard, 57 Rue De Turbigo. +33 1 48 04 07 55. If you like trendy décor then this could be for you Free WiFi L’Attirail, 9, rue du Maire. +33 1 42 72 44 42. It is a bar/club with concerts ranging from Jazz Manouch to contemporary swing.

FOURTH The 4th is good chunk of what used to be medieval Paris, and you will find a lot left from that time, on both islands and in the narrow streets of the lower Marais. Meanwhile there is lots that is contemporary to look at especially at the Centre Georges Pompidou where you will find a lot of the very best of contemporary art. At night the 4th has several of the most active bar scenes most travellers will have ever seen, including the lower Marais district.

By Métro Hôtel de Ville, Cité, St. Paul, Rambuteau, Pt. Marie, Sully Morland.

Landmarks Notre Dame cathedral, Hôtel de Ville, Place Igor Stravinsky, Place des Vosges, la Bastille, St. Gervais church, Hôtel de Sully, Mémorial du Martyr Juif Inconnu, Le Mémorial de la Shoah (Holocaust Memorial).

Museums and Galleries Centre George Pompidou, Musée de la Curiosité et de la Magie, Maison de Victor, Maison Européenne de la Photographie.

Eating Out If you are looking for a snack or a quick lunch you could do a lot worse than any one of the kosher falafel stands along the Rue des Rosiers near Place des Vosges. If you are on the island though, a closer choice is just to hop across the little pedestrian bridge to the Ile de St. Louis for lunch at any one of the many charming cafés. For dinner or a sit-down lunch there are over a thousand restaurants in the 4th catering to all tastes, many more of them deserve to be listed than there is space for! There are nice places, trendy or traditional throughout the district, but most of the really fancy bistros are clustered around the North-West corner of Place de Bastille.You will really enjoy walking around and checking out the menus, especially during the week when only the most exclusive places require a reservation. Le Loir dans la Théière (the Dormouse in the Teapot), 3, rue des Rosiers, Métro: Saint Paul. + 33 1 42 72 90 61. A highly recommended and well worth a visit especially for brunch, which at E15.50 is a great value for the quantity, quality, and ambiance. La Perla, 26 rue François Miron, Métro: Hôtel de Ville. +33 1 42 77 59 40. Open 11am to 2am every day. There is good Mexican food to be had within a stone’s through of the Ile de St. Louis. They mix a decent margarita too! You will pay about E10 for a plate ordered à la carte. l’Excuse, 14 rue Charles-V, Métro: Sully-Morland. +33 1 42 77 98 97. Piccolo Teatro, 6 Rue des Ecouffes, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 1 42 72 17 79. Ciao, 7 rue Simon-Lefranc, Métro: Rambuteau. +33 1 42 71 52 07. Chez Marianne, 2 Rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 42 72 18 86. Found at the corner of rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais, and the rue Rosiers, Chez Marianne --like the many falafel stands in the Pletzle-- serves excellent sandwiches out of a walk up window, but unlike some of the others also has an attractive dining room and a truly lovely terrace where you can enjoy a full range of Jewish/middle-eastern dishes. Falafel out of the window is E4; in the dining room you’ll pay around E15 for a vegetarian menu, or up to E22 for the most expensive dishes à la carte. Aquarius, 54 rue St. Croix de la Brettonerie

Drinks In the 4th it is really hard to say whether a given place is somewhere to eat or somewhere to drink. Most of the places on this list serve dinner, and some serve lunch as well. The Auld Alliance Scottish Pub, 80 rue Francois Miron, Métro St Paul. +33 1 48 04 30 40. Open 7 days a week from 11am to 2am. Friendly staff and customers help create a welcoming atmosphere at the original Scottish pub in Paris. Excellent food is served everyday including a hearty brunch. A wide selection of whisky is on offer. Sporting events are shown on the large television screens and regular darts and pool competitions take place. 7 Lézards, 10 rue des Rosiers, Métro: Saint Paul. +33 1 48 87 08 97. Nestled among the falafel and kosher restaurants of rue des Rosiers is this out-of-the way little jazz club and restaurant which hosts jam sessions on Sunday nights and the fully range of up-and-coming jazz artists Tuesday through Saturday. A beer will cost you a reasonable E4 upstairs, but E7 downstairs where you can hear the music.This is one of the places where you can find a copy of LYLO. 62

Café des Phares, 7 place de la Bastille, Métro: Bastille. +33 1 42 72 04 70. Open every day from 7:00am until 3:00am. Since 1992 this otherwise very attractive but fairly standard Parisien café has been host to a lively discussion of contemporary philosophy and attendant issues every Sunday night. There is a political discussion too, on the first Thursday of each month. Café Lutece, 33 quai de Bourbon, Métro: Pont-Marie. This little bistro would be totally unremarkable if it was not for the location, on the northern bank of Ile Saint-Louis, where you can watch the colors of the sunset light play over the towers of the Hôtel de Ville as you enjoy a glass or three of beer or house wine, or maybe a cognac. Le Lizard Lounge, 18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, Métro: Hôtel-de-Ville. +33 1 42 72 48 34. Le Petit Fer A Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du Temple, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 1 42 72 47 47. La Chaise au Plafond, 10 rue du Trésor, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 1 42 76 03 22. Les Etages, 35 rue Vieille du Temple, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 01 42 78 72 00. Stolly’s, 7 rue Cloche-Perce, Métro: Saint-Paul. +33 1 42 76 06 76.

Fifth The 5th Arrondissement of Paris is one of the best known of the city’s central districts, located on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) of the river Seine. Also commonly known as the “Latin Quarter” (le quartier Latin) - from the fact that the first great Parisian university, the Sorbonne, was founded (and can be still be found) here (Latin being the language the medieval period students used once to speak), the 5th was also the core of ancient Gallo-Roman Paris, as revealed in a number of otherwise rare archaeological remains that can be seen within the district.

By Métro St. Michel, Cluny/la Sorbonne, Maubert/Mutualité, Cardinal Lemoine, Jussieu, Place Monge, Luxembourg, Censier/Daubenton, Gare d’Austerlitz

Landmarks Panthéon, Jardin des Plantes, Arenes de Lutece, Sorbonne

Museums and Galleries Musée du Moyen Age, Musée de l’Institut du Monde Arabe, Musée Curie

Eating Out A lot of travellers arriving in the 5th from across the river are lured into the restaurants and fast-food outlets between rue St Jacques and boulevard St Michel (in Rue de la Huchette, rue Saint-Séverin). Tip: avoid them as they can be overpriced tourist-traps. Le Petit Prince de Paris, 12, rue de Lanneau (close to Pantheon in the 5th Arrondissement), +33 1 43 54 77 26. Open every evening from 7:30pm to midnight (12:30am Friday and Saturday). A notably Parisian restaurant experience, but with friendly and warm service. Traditional French food (try the duck!) and deliciously complicated sauces. Relaxed and uncrowded, but reserve in the morning for a weekend night. E16-E23 menu including appetiser and main plate, E6 for dessert. Reasonable wine selection.

Le Grenier de Notre Dame, 18 rue de la Bûcherie, Métro: St. Michel. +33 1 43 29 98 29. A vegetarian restaurant with a great selection including a number of vegan items, the Grenier is, as the name suggests, just around the corner from the cathedral. The English-speaking staff is super friendly. Dinner menus start at E12. Jardin des Pâtes, 4 rue Lacépède Métro: Monge. +33 1 43 31 50 71. Open every day from noon to 2:30pm and 7pm to 11pm. The range of pasta dishes is just fantastic at this cute little restaurant tucked away near the Jardin des Plantes. Although some meat dishes are served, there is a huge range of choice for vegetarians as well. The menus run around E12.

Drinks Universel Café, 267 rue Saint Jaques, Métro: Luxembourg. +33 1 43 25 74 20. This mostly anglophone joint presents jazz artists from around the globe on its tiny stage. There is never a cover, and the atmosphere is always fantastic with the huge collection of postcards etc. on the stage wall, and the musical statue of liberty in the front. Polly Magoo, 3 rue du Petit Pont, Métro: Saint Michel. Open noon to 5am, Sunday to Thursday, and to 8am on Friday and Saturday. This bar bears no relation, beyond the name, to the legendarily sleazy bar which was further south up the street at 11 rue Saint Jacques and was replaced by a ‘boutique hotel’ in 2002. Jim Morrison was a regular at the original bar. The Gaudi-esque bar and blue mosaic storefront make this bar a must see. Their formule (1 tapas, 1 beer) is E8. The Fifth Bar, 62 rue Mouffetard, Métro: Place Monge. Named for the arrondissement, or maybe a measure of whiskey, this little hole-in-the-wall caters to a mixed anglophone expatriate crowd, with a mix of local students. Depending on season, American sports often play on the television. Lager pints are E3.50 at happy hour, E5 after 20h. Le Vieux Chêne, 69 rue Mouffetard, Métro: Place Monge. Just down the way from the fifth on the left is another great bar, this one dating from the 18th century. It was named after its sign, a bas relief of an old oak tree (vieux chene), which was around 250 years when it was chiselled off early in 2005 by workman ‘restoring’ the facade of the building. The selection of beers etc. is good. Expect to pay around E4 for a pint. Le Piano Vache, 8 Rue Laplace, Métro: Maubert/Mutualité. +33 1 46 33 75 03. A legendary part of student life in the real latin quarter this bar has walls covered with posters and photos of bands, but also a wall covered with passport-type photos of regulars past and present. At night things get going with DJs, bands of all styles, and on Tuesday nights, a pop-rock jam session. Beer: E3.50, mixed drinks E6.50, coffee E1.

SIXTH As with Paris itself, the 6th Arrondissement is hard to write about without using superlatives. There is a bit of everything here, from the busy sidewalks of Paris’ main art Gallery scene to the expansive green spaces and under-tree cafés of the Jardin du Luxembourg, from the huddle of kebab places around Place St. Michel to some of the finest restaurants in the world, the 6th has it all.

Landmarks Eglise St Germain-des-Prés, Palais du Luxembourg/Sénate, Musée national Eugène Delacroix

Eating Out Padova, 159 blvd. de Monparnasse, Métro: (RER-B) Port Royal. +33 1 43 26 63 52. Tuesday through Saturday 11:00am to 2:00pm and 7:00pm to 11:00pm. Good and big Italian food in this family-style restaurant. Yugaraj, 14 Rue Dauphine, Metro: Pont-Neuf or Odeon, +33 1 43 26 44 91.Visit to have good quality Indian food in Paris combined with excellent service. They serve vegetarian food as well. It is a popular restaurant so be sure to book in advance if you are going in a large group. Expect to pay around E40 per person. l’Epi Dupin La Bastide Odeon l’Arbuci Les Bouqinistes Brasserie Lipp Cour de Rohan La Petite Cour Le Petit Zinc Polidor Le Timbre Le Trait D’Union Ze Kitchen Gallery Guen Maï

Drinks The 6th has two of Paris’ most famous cafés, side by side - both are more expensive than your average café: Café de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain, tel +33 1 45 48 55 26, Métro: St-Germain-de-Prés, open daily 7 am - 1.30 am - this café is famous as the favoured coffee and fags venue for the Surrealists during the 1920s and ‘30s, the Existentialists in the 1940s and ‘50s, and still attracts an artistic / literati crowd.... Also does breakfasts and light meals. Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain de Prés, tel +33 1 45 48 55 25, métro St Germain-des-Prés, open daily 8 am - 2 am - another famous literary café, right next door to its great rival Café de Flore. Sartre and Hemingway were regular patrons here and the café confirms its literary connections with an annual, somewhat prestigious book prize. 10 Bar International, 10, rue de l’Odéon, Métro: Odeon. +33 1 43 26 66 83. If you’re looking to be lured into a classic Parisian bar by the sound of accordion music, you should spend a few hours of your evening here. Glass of wine will cost you about E3. 66

SEVENTH, EIGHTH & SIXTEENTH The 7th arrondissement runs from Rue du Bac to the Eiffel Tower. The area around rue de Grenelle and rue St-Dominique was the aristocratic Faubourg Saint-Germain where the aristocracy moved from the Marais in the 18th century. They built grand ‘hotels’ which today are the home of embassies and ministries. The Hotel Matignon, at No. 57 rue de Varenne, is the residence of the Prime Minister and The Hotel de Biron at No. 77 is now the Musee Rodin, which has a lovely garden and is open to the public. The 8th have avenues that radiate from place de l’Etoile – officially place de Charles de Gaulle. Both the 7th and 16th have some of Paris’s best neighbourhoods namely Victor Hugo and Passy not to mention the very symbol of Paris itself, the Eiffel Tower!

By Métro Champs-Elysees Clemenceau, Charles de Gualle-Etoile, Franklin D Roosevelt, George V, Victor Hugo, Trocadero, Iena, Passy

Landmarks Eiffel Tower, Assemblée Nationale, Les Invalides, Musée d’Orsay, Musée Rodin, Musée de l’Armée, Avenue des Champs-Elysées, l’Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, La Madeleine, Musée du Petit Palais.

Eating and Drinks Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 avenue Rapp, Métro: Ecole Militaire / Alma Marceau, RER Pont de l’Alma, open TuesdaySaturday 12.15pm - 2pm, 715pm - 11pm, closed Sunday-Monday and August, tel +33 1 45 51 75 61, prix fixe (dinner) E33, accepts credit cards - a great little restaurant, elegant without being stuffy, popular with foreign visitors and American diplomatic staff, fantastic French cuisine with a twist - try the avocado millefeuille with orange sauce for dessert. Chez l’ami Jean, rue Malar, a sensational little restaurant featuring food and wine from the Basque.prix fixe (dinner) approx. E30, accepts credit cards. Au Sauvignon, 80 rue des Sts-Peres tel. +33 1 45 48 49 02. This restaurant revolves arouns wine and the walls are plastered with posters of the beverage! The wine list boasts fine vintages accompanied by savoury snacks such as fine cheese or smoked salmon toast. Thoumieux, 79 rue St-Dominique tel. +33 1 47 05 49 75. This bustling traditional French bistro is good value for money, ingredients are fresh and almost everything is made on the premises, including foie gras. Prompt service. Buddha Bar, 8 Rue Boissy d’ Anglais, Métro: Concorde. +33 1 53 05 90 00. The Buddha Bar is famous in electronic lounge music circles for having commissioned a series of lounge and down tempo records which you can get at most larger record shops in France, as well as many abroad. Although you can also get them at the bar it is probably not the best way, since they charge E45 per CD! The drinks are not so over-priced, and definitely worth it for the hip, sophisticated, and chill atmosphere. Laduree, 16 Rue Royale tel. +33 1 42 60 21 79. Celebrated as one of the best tearooms in town since 1862, Laduree hasn’t lost any of its class. This elegant tearoom, famous for its Renaissance-style interior, still serves its renowned macaroons which come in all sorts of flavours: aniseed, caramel, chestnut, lime and basil. L’Avenue, 41 rue Montaigne tel. +33 1 40 70 14 91. Located at the hub of couture fashion, L’Avenue attracts an elegant crowd. Service can get a bit hectic at peak times but then this is a brasserie!

Ninth The 9th arrondissement of Paris is a diverse, “in between” section of the French capital. The Grands Boulevards area of shopping throughfares and flagship department stores (as well as the original Opera – which is the common name for the district) is to be found in the southern part of the arrondissement (shared with the 2nd and the 8th). By way of contrast, the fading red-light and cheap shopping district of Pigalle is located in the north of the 9th, closely adjoining Montmartre on the hill above in the 18th. In between the two, lies a traveller’s no-man’s-land - though the streets around St Lazare used to be the Impressionists stronghold in Paris.

By Métro Opéra (3, 7, 8) Chausette d’Antin La Fayette (7, 9) Grands Boulevards (8, 9)

Landmarks Palais Garnier Pigalle Musée Gustave Moreau Galeries Lafayette Printemps

Eating and Drinks Pizza Marzano (Pizza Express in style), 30 Boulevard Des Italiens, Métro: Opéra, tel +33 1 47 70 33 33, open daily 11.30 am - midnight - UK travellers in particular will be familiar with the above average pizza/pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices (great when you have a busy Paris schedule!) This outlet has a large al fresco area which is great in warmer months. Chartier, 7 rue du faubourg Montmartre tel. +33 1 47 70 86 29. Good basic cusine set in a listed 1900’s décor. Chez Clement,17 Blvd des Capucines tel. +33 1 53 43 82 00 Just 2 minutes walk from the Opera this comfortamble bistro serves roast meats until well after midnight every day of the year. Good value. Pizza Marzano Clichy, 10 Bis Place de Clichy, tel +33 1 40 16 52 30, open daily 11 am - 1 am. Originally the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second “Pizza Express” style outlet (they are both in the 9th) is located close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre. Le Grand Colbert, 2 – 4 rue Vivienne tel. +33 1 42 86 87 88. One of the nicest brasseries in Paris the menu offers classic brasserie food – herring fillets with potatoes or cream, onion soup etc.Paris 10th & 19th Arrondissements

TENTH The 10th arrondissement of Paris centres around the Canal St. Martin and the restaurants and cafés which line its banks. Part sleepy faubourg (as suburbs were called in 18th century Paris) and part industrial centre, the 10th arrondissement has lately enjoyed the benefits of both the booming nightlife scene in the neighbouring 11th, as well as the Parisien cycling and rollerblading boom. The streets lining the canal become car-free for the later half of the day each Saturday, and all day on Sundays for your cycling and strolling pleasure. There is another, more bustling side to the cosmopolitan 10th, however, as the location of two primary entry/exit points for the city, in the form of the two great train stations Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est. One final focus to the 10th is the historic Place de la République in the far south of the arrondissement, its many bars, restaurants and cafés. La Villette, with its lovely park, canal and cutting-edge museums and other attractions in the far flung 19e arrondissement in the northeast, is the last district of major imporatnce intra-muros (inside the walls).

Metro Republique Goncourt Temple

Landmarks The Locks on the Canal St. Martin Musée de l’Eventail Musée de Cristal de Baccarat

Eating and Drinks Julien, 16 rue du Faubourg-St Denis, Métro: Strasbourg-St Denis, tel 01 47 70 12 06, open daily 12.00-15.00, 19.00-01.30. The original 1890 decor of this Parisian dining classic is a mix of Cuban mahogany and Art Nouveau paintings and fixtures, an atmospheric treat. The cuisine is mostly south-western French: lots of foie gras and the speciality, cassoulet d’oie (goose in white beans). Lunch E21, prix fixe E30, average plate E40, all cards taken. Mukura, 79 quai de Valmy, Métro: Château Landon - this tiny Colombian restaurant calls itself a “Salon du chocolate, café, thé & fruites latino”. In fact they serve a variety of fine plates for lunch or dinner. It is worth noting that this is one of the few truly non-smoking dining rooms around. Make sure to try their Lulo juice as well as their fruit salads. Lulo is a fruit native to Colombia. Basserie Flo, 7 Cour des Petities-Ecuries, tel. +33 1 47 70 13 59. This authentic Alsatian basserie with its rich wood and glass stained décor is a perfect choice for straightforward basserie food. The menu includes good shellfish and choucroute (sauerkraut). Chez Prune, 36 rue Beaurepaire, tel. +33 1 41 41 30 47. Wonderful views over Canal St Martin this serves daily food based on cuisine du marche. La Marine, 55 Quai Valmy, tel. +33 1 42 39 69 81. As the name would suggest a fish menu such as red mullet in puff pastry, can get busy so worth booking ahead. La Paprika, 28 Avenue Trudaine, tel. +33 144 63 02 91. Gourmet Hungarian cuisine and live gypsy music (October – April and June).

ELEVENTH & TWENTIETH The 11th Arrondissement of Paris is home to two quite different but equally blossoming centres of Parisien nightlife. The streets just northwest of Place de Bastille are full of little bars which attract a mix of young suburban parisiens, ex-pats, and foreigners. Many have a Latin-American theme. Meanwhile the restaurants, bars, and wine-bars around Rue Oberkampf in the north of the 11th and rue de Charonne near Avenue Ledru Rollin attract a more urban crowd and are perhaps closer to something traditionally Parisien. The 20th arrondissement of Paris lies to the east of the centre and represents an old working-class area now in rapid transformation. The main drawcard here is the Père-Lachaise Cemetery, however the Belleville area (20th) is where Edith Piaf was born, socialism once thrived and Paris’ first immigrants from North Africa settled.

Metro Oberkampf, St Ambroise,Voltaire, Gambetta, Père Lachaise

Eating and Drinks Clown Bar, 114 rue Amelot, Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf. +33 1 43 55 87 35. Open from 12.00 to 15.00 and 19.00 to 02.00. The food served in this absolutely beautiful room is classic French. The decor is classic Circus, which makes sense since it is just two doors north of the building which has traditionally housed circuses passing through during the winter. L’Estaminet, 116 rue Oberkampf, Métro: Parmentier or Ménilmontant. +33 1 43 57 34 29. French food with a high degree of originality and creativity. The service is warm and friendly, and so is the decor. Norbulinga, 118 rue Amelot, Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf. +33 1 47 00 90 18. Open from 12.30 to 14.30 and 19.00 to 23.00 daily except Sundays.Tibetan restaurants aren’t widely known to be vegetarian friendly, but this beautifully appointed one certainly is with a list of around 12 vegetarian dishes. Of course there is plenty for meat lovers as well. Some dishes might remind you of spicier western Chinese cooking, others seem a bit more south-Asian. Le Trou Normand, 9 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, Métro: Oberkampf. +33 1 48 05 80 23. Open until 01.00. Aux Comptoirs des Indes, 50 rue de la Fontaine Au Roi, Métro: Parmentier. +33 1 48 05 45 76. Indian. Le Troisième Bureau, 74 rue de la folie Mericourt, Métro: Parmentier. +33 1 43 55 87 65. French. E12 to E20. Le Kitch, 10 rue Oberkampf, Métro: Oberkampf. +33 1 40 21 94 14. Daily until 02.00. A tiny french restaurant with a kitch atmosphere and good food. E12 to E20. Café Cannibale, 93 rue jean-pierre timbaud, Métro: Parmentier. +33 1 49 29 95 59.

Chez Justine, 96 rue Oberkampf, Métro: Parmentier. +33 1 43 57 44 03. Close to the centre of the Oberkampf nightlife zone, “Justine’s place” functions as a restaurant with trendy versions french offerings (which get mixed reviews) during the early evening, but it is 22.00 to 02.00 which really makes the place. Most of the room is filled with big wooden plank tables which are just the thing for for a lively conversation with friends, while the bar is comfy too, and attracts quite a crowd by the late evening. Nouveau Casino and Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf, Métro: Parmentier. +33 1 43 57 57 40. Right across the street from Justine’s the New Casino keeps rocking until dawn both in the bar downstairs and the medium-size dancehall upstairs. Ba-ta-clan, Boulevard Voltaire, Métro: Oberkampf. +33 1 49 23 96 33. Not long ago this place occupied the pinnacle of hipness which at which the Nouveau Casino now finds itself. It has been through a management change though, and doesn’t have quite the booking power it once did. Still, you should stop by, especially in the afternoon as the café downstairs is outstanding.

twelfth The 12th arrondissement of Paris is one of the largest of the city’s districts even without the 2,460 acre Bois de Vincennes, which more than doubles its size. Gare de Lyon in the 12th will likely be your arrival point if you are coming from Switzerland, Italy, or the south of France.

Metro Gare de Lyon, Gare de Bercy

Landmarks Jardin Yitzhak Rabin, Bercy Village, Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy, Musée National des Arts Africains et Océaniens, Opéra Bastille.

Eating and Drinks l’Ébauchoir, 43-45 rue de Citeaux, at the corner of rue faubourg Saint Antoine. +33 1 43 42 49 31. A typical restaurant of the BoBo (bourgeois - bohème) population of this district. Good traditional cooking with middle prices. Le Train Bleu, Pl Louis Armand, tel. +33 1 43 43 09 06. Train station restaurants were once grand places for a meal and today this can still be said for the Train Blue (named after the fast train that once took the elite to the Riviera) in the Gare de Lyon. The Belle Epoque décor is a landmark Au Trou Gascon, 40 rue Taine, tel. +33 1 43 44 34 26. This authentic 1900s bistro owned by star chef Alain Dutournier is one of paris’s most popular places. Leave room for the desserts! 72

thirteenth The 13th arrondissement of central Paris is primarily a residential and business district in the south-eastern part of the French capital, lying on the Left Bank of the river Seine. Although not usually recognised as a natural drawcard for tourists, the 13th nonetheless does hold several attractions of interest to the visitor that include the recently-completed Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library) and Paris’ Chinatown district. The southern part of the arrondissement is the “China town” of Paris, one of (or even the) biggest in Europe.

Metro Mairie d’Ivry, Place d’Italie, Les Gobelins

Landmarks La Bibliothèque Nationale de France, La Butte aux Cailles, Stade Charléty, La Manifacture des Gobelins

Eating & Drinks The southern part of the district is the place to go if you want and like authentic Asian food. Avenue de Choisy at the corner with rue de Tolbiac, Avenue d’Ivry and rue Baudricourt. Chez Gladines on the “Butte aux cailles”, 5 rue des Cinq Diamants, has huge Basque salads and a lot of ambiance in a moderately low-budget restaurant. Le Temps des Cerises, 18-20 rue de la butte-aux-cailles Métro: Place d’Italie. +33 1 45 89 69 48. If you are looking for quality French food, a large choice of good and affordable wine this is the place to go. No need to reserve a table, just show up and the “patron” will find a place for you (arrive before 8 if you don’t want to queue up especially on weekends), shut down your mobile or you will be kicked out! The “Boudin a la Normande” (blood sausage) is a must, you can also get very decent goose liver and other French speciality such as “Salade de Museau”.

FOURTEENTH, FIFTEENTH & SEVENTEENTH Although largely residential, the 14th arrondissement is best known for Montparnasse (both the station and the towering skyscraper Tour Montparnasse), for the Paris Catacombs and the Parc Montsouris. The Cité Universitaire is also found in this district traditionally known for lively cafés and restaurants around the Boulevard du Montparnasse and the rue Daguerre. The 15th arrondissement of Paris is located in the south-west of the city on the Left Bank of the river Seine, the largest arrondissement of central Paris, remains heavily residential, upmarket and quiet with not a great deal of obvious attractions for the traveller here. The 17th has the most beautiful Haussman-era buildings beyond the Gare St-Lazare and the workingclass neighbourhoods of Clichy.

EIGHTEENTH The 18th arrondissement of Paris is probably best known for the hill of Montmartre which was the centre of the Communard uprising of the late nineteenth century, but is also perhaps better known as the centre of the flourishing artist community of the period from around 1907 to 1914. Picasso, Dali, Duchamp, Toulouse-Latrec and others from the vibrant early modern period lived and worked here until driven out either by political considerations during the First World War or rising property values thereafter. The 18th is also the home of a thriving ethnic community in the east and a sort of a red-light district along Boulevard de Clichy near Place Pigalle.

Metro The 18th is primarily served by the Métro 4 and 12 lines from the centre of town, or the 2 from the east and west. Abesses This station is fairly high up the slope of the hill, and the line is fairly deep underground, so getting up and down is either in a six-story spiral staircase decorated from top to bottom with murals by local amateur painters, or in one of two high-capacity modern elevator. Line 2: Stations from west to east: Place de Clichy, Pigalle, Blanche, Barbès-Rochechouart Line 4: Stations from south to north: Barbès-Rochechouart, Chateau Rouge Line 12: Stations from south to north: Pigalle, Abbesses

Landmarks Sacré Coeur, Montmartre Cemetery, Moulin Rouge, Place Pigalle, Espace Dali.

Eating & Drinks Au Grain de Folie, 24 rue la Vieuville, tel. +33 1 42 58 15 57. Paris has only a handful of vegetarian restaurants this this one has a very cosy feel. Le Restaurant, 32 rue Veron, tel. +33 1 42 58 72 89. The place is always full of locals every night of the week which really speaks for itself!

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CPhI, ICSE & P-MEC 2007

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