Autumn/Winter 15/16 Trend Analysis

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introduction Two trends identified in womenswear for Autumn/Winter 2015/16. Each trend has been divided into a further two subcategories in order to truly show the trend’s versatility. The attitudes of the trend adopters are also explored as is the personalities and brands that can be associated with the trend, from high street all the way to designer. The first trend is then explored further by looking at how it has been represented by the media, delving into it’s past and origin, and also shows it in action, worn on the street by the, “highly visible and well connected” early adopters. (Raymond, 2010).


fringing frenzy cape n’ drape tasselled treats

are you fur real? fur rainbow raw shades

fringing in the street throwing it back Topshop does tasselled treats on the street


Fig. 1 - Burberry Porsum (2015)


fringing frenzy With the second wave of 70s bohemia the being the key theme this season, one fool-proof key trend is fringing. From jackets to boots to bags, it’s impossible to escape the tassels this winter. Burberry Porsum takes the trend in full swing, with countless looks adorning the trend, and ChloÊ, Etro and Lanvin also take on the tassels.


Fig. 2 - Missguided (2015)

Fig. 3 – Mango (2015)

Fig. 4 – Fringe Benefits (2015)

cape n’ drape From a Mango tan suede cape to tassel-tastic midi skirts by Chloé, you can be draped in fringed garments to your heart’s content. The flowing tassels express a sense of freedom and someone who has a care-free spirit. The earthy tan and forest green hues create the perfect autumnal palette. Lanvin’s ready-to-wear adorned, “fringing that spiralled around skirts from waist to hem” and Burberry Porsum collection featuring, “luxuriant fringing” and “a suede cape swishing with tiers of fringe” (Vogue, 2015).

Fig. 5 – PFW (2015)

Fig. 6 – Vanessa Hudgens (2015)

Fig. 7 - Danielle Bernstein (2015)


Fig. 8 – Runway cape n’ drape (2015)

Tom Ford

Burberry Porsum

Burberry Porsum

Burberry Porsum

Burberry Porsum

Lanvin

Burberry Porsum

Burberry Porsum

Chloé


Fig. 10 – Missguided bag (2015)

Fig. 9 – Burberry Porsum boot and bag (2015)

tasseled treats For those who don’t want to commit to the full fringed cape or skirt, Karen Millen and Burberry Porsum offer a range of shoes and bags to fulfil the staple trend. Missguided also lead the way with an array of shoulder bags and boots draped in the suede fringing. Whatever the colour only one rule applies - a heel boot is a must. Using the tasseled accessories to abide to the core trend this winter it shows a sense of independence and confidence.

Fig. 11 – Karen Millen boot heel (2015)

Fig. 12 – Burberry Porsum boot (2015)


Burberry Porsum

Rebecca Minkoff Fig. 13 – Tasseled treats (2015)


Fig. 14 – Candy Pink Ombre (2015)


you fur real? What better way to keep warm this winter than in a big fluffy fur coat? Whether a multi-coloured gilet takes your fancy or you’d rather stick to a more natural hue, there’s a fur coat out there to suit every want and need. ASOS take the trend by storm offering an extensive range of furry goods while Michael Kors, Armani Privé and Chloé also take on the fur.


Fig. 15 - Joanna Hillman in Diane von Furstneburg (2015)

Fig. 16 – Faux Fur Patched Coat (2015)

Fig. 17 – Giovanna Battaglia (2015)

fur rainbow

From punchy yellows to powdery pinks, to electric blues and to multi-coloured madness, there’s a rainbow of fur coats this season. ASOS offer a full spectrum of fluffy gilets and coats and Charlotte Simone has monster scarves down to a T. Armani offers a memorising quilted skirt while Chloé presents a shaggy shawl perfect for the cold months. Wearers of this fun trend present a lively and outgoing attitude with a sparks of confidence and passion.

Fig. 18 – Giorgio Armani (2015)

Fig. 19 – NFW (2015)

Fig. 20 – Multi fur (2015)


ASOS

Charlotte Simone

ASOS

ASOS

Emilio Pucci

Charlotte Simone

Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani

Jason Wu

Elie Saab

Pascal Millet

ASOS

ASOS

Chloé

Fig. 21 - Fur rainbow (2015)


Fig. 22 – Grey fur (2015)

raw shades Whilst crazy coloured fur is big within the fur trend this season, if a neon pink coat doesn’t take your fancy you can also find an array of fur that mimicks the natural shades of animal fur. Miu Miu and Fendi present dreamy cream hues whilst ASOS lets it’s claw out with a classic leopard print coat. Adorning the more natural hues of fur this season, it gives a sense of sophistication, purity and clarity.

Fig. 23 – Rumi Neely (2015)

Fig. 24 – Kerry Pieri in Aritzia coat (2015)

Fig. 25 – Louis Vuitton (2015)


Fig. 26 – Raw shades (2015)

Michael Kors

Fendi

Marc Jacobs

ASOS

Miu Miu

Fendi


“The longevity of the tassel is testament to its staying power as a detail of choice among designers, rock stars and festivalgoers alike.�

(Beyond Retro, 2013)

Fig. 27 - Burberry Porsum (2015)


fringing in the street An insight exploring the trend’s different styles throughtout the years, brands associated with the trend and examples of it being worn on the street this winter.


Fig. 28 – History of fringing (2015)

Elvis Presley

Charles Worth

Olive Borden

throwing it back The fringing trend first appeared in the 1920s with the infamous Charleston dress and the Gatsbian era. Along with beading and feathers, “tassels were draped, glitzed and decorated to create glamorous cocktail dresses”. Resurfacing again in the 1950s by the king of rock and roll, Elvis Presley, with his fringed leather jackets, the trend was in full swing with dozens of fans adopting his look. Bringing back the Native American roots, in the 1960s the tassels were back with Jane Shrimpton, Penelope Tree and Cher adorning the trend. The 1970s presented fringing with a bohemian vibe and in the 80s Giorgio Armani and Azzedine Alaia were some of the many to drape their collections in tassels. Tina Turner showed off an Alaia fringed dress for American Vogue and Vogue Italia. When it came to the 1990s, designers including Jean Paul Gaultier took on the trend and even included a pair of fringed glasses (Beyond Retro, 2013). Throughout the 00s fringing trend came back for more and in Spring/Summer 2011 it featured in collections by Anna Sui and Roberto Cavalli (Metcalfe, 2011).

Fig. 29 – Jimi Hendrix (2012)


Tina Turner and Azzedine Alaia

Cher

Jane Shrimpton Anna Sui

Raquel Welch

Jean Paul Gaultier

Roberto Cavalli

Fig. 30 – Fringing through the years (2015) David Bowie


Topshop does tasseled treats

“Whether swooshing off dresses or swinging from a bag, fringes and tassels are set to fash-up any look.�

(Topshop, 2015)


Fig. 31 – Topshop tasseled treats (2015)


on the street There’s no escaping the fringing trend this winter, with it being found in countless of runway collections and has been featured in everything from Vogue to Glamour magazine. Particular fans of the trend in the limelight include Olivia Palermo and Vanessa Hudgens, whether it’s a leather-fringed bag to a tasseled suede skirt.

Fig. 32 – Angle fringed bag (2015)

Fig. 33 – Tassels for days (2015)

“From skirt hems, to denim jackets, shorts to totes - whether you’re channeling a 20s flapper vibe or a Midwest cowgirl, the designers are going crazy for the swing” (Howarth, 2015)


Fig. 34 – On the street (2015)


references List of illustrations

accessed: 24th September 2015).

Fig. 1 - Burberry Porsum (2015) Vogue. (2015). Burberry Porsum.Vogue. http://www.vogue.co.uk/ miss-vogue/fashion/2015/06/burberry-autumn-winter-2015-campaign/ gallery/1426876

Fig. 15 - Joanna Hillman in Diane von Furstneburg (2015) Zuko, D. (2015). Joanna Hillman in Diane von Furstneburg. Harper’s Bazaar. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/ g5266/new-york-fashion-week-street-style-fall-2015/?slide=32. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015).

Fig. 2 - Missguided (2015) Missguided. (2015). Fringed Faux Suede Biker Jacket Tan. Missguided. Available: https://www.missguided.co.uk/clothing/shop-by-trend/ fringe/fringed-faux-suede-biker-jacket-tan. (Last accessed: 8th September 2015).

Fig. 16 – Faux Fur Patched Coat (2015) ASOS. (2015). Faux Fur Patched Coat. ASOS. Available: http://www. asos.com/ASOS/ASOS-Faux-Fur-Patched-Coat/Prod/pgeproduct. aspx?iid=4371558. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015).

Fig. 3 – Mango (2015) Mango. (2015). Fringed Cape. Mango. Available: http://shop.mango. com/GB/p0/women/clothing/coats/fringed-cape/?id=53053653_ CG&n=1&s=prendas.abrigos&ident=0__0_1441994422879& ts=1441994422879. (Last accessed: 23rd September 2015).

Fig. 17 – Giovanna Battaglia (2015) Harper’s Bazaar. (2015). Giovanna Battaglia. Harper’s Bazaar. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5266/new-yorkfashion-week-street-style-fall-2015/?slide=19. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015).

Fig. 4 – Fringe Benefits (2015) Johannsen, A. Fringe Benefits. Aloha Everybody. Available: http://www. alohaeverybody.com/fringe-benefits/. (Last accessed: 4th October 2015).

Fig. 18 – Giorgio Armani (2015) Pucci, G. (2015). Giorgio Armani. Vogue. Available: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/ giorgio-armani/slideshow/details#55. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015).

Fig. 5 – PFW (2015) Grillo,V. (2015). PFW. Popsugar. Available: http://www.popsugar. com/fashion/Paris-Fashion-Week-Street-Style-Fall-201537001285?crlt.pid=camp.pDcf6NidPhSA&crlt.pid=camp. YrmQENW5Rbbo#photo-37050647. (Last accessed: 23rd September 2015).

Fig. 19 – NFW (2015) Zuko, D. (2015). NFW. Harper’s Bazaar. Available: http://www. harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5266/new-york-fashionweek-street-style-fall-2015/?slide=60. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015).

Fig. 6 – Vanessa Hudgens (2015) Tumblr. (2015). Vanessa Hudgens. Available: http://vanessahudgennsss. tumblr.com/post/121842452564/vanessa-blog-x. (Last accessed: 24th September 2015).

Fig. 20 – Multi fur (2015) Pinterest. (2015). Multi fur. Pinterest. Available: https://uk.pinterest. com/pin/433049320398168083/. (Last accessed: 29th September 2015).

Fig. 7 - Danielle Bernstein (2015) Grillo,V. (2015). Danielle Bernstein. Popsugar. Available: http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Paris-Fashion-Week-StreetStyle-Fall-2015-37001285?crlt.pid=camp.pDcf6NidPhSA&crlt. pid=camp.YrmQENW5Rbbo#photo-37024782. (Last accessed: 24th September 2015).

Fig. 21 – Fur rainbow (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Fur rainbow.

Fig. 8 – Runway cape n’ drape (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Runway cape n’ drape. Fig. 9 – Burberry Porsum boot and bag (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Burberry Porsum boot and bag. Fig. 10 – Missguided bag (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Missguided bag. Fig. 11 – Karen Millen boot heel (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Karen Millen boot heel. Fig. 12 – Burberry Porsum boot (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Burberry Porsum boot. Fig. 13 – Tasseled treats (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Tasselled treats. Fig. 14 – Candy Pink Ombre (2015) Simone, C. (2015). Candy Pink Ombre. Charlotte Simone. Available: http://charlottesimone.com/collections/aw-15/products/8. (Last

Fig. 22 – Grey fur (2015) Anon. (2015) Grey fur. Anon. Available: https://d2d00szk9na1qq. cloudfront.net/Product/e9a42eea-e9fe-457b-ae83-0bb006fcfe3c/ Images/Large_0317410.jpg. (Last accessed: 29th September 2015). Fig. 23 – Rumi Neely (2015) Zuko, D. (2015). Rumi Neely. Harper’s Bazaar. Available: http://www. harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5266/new-york-fashionweek-street-style-fall-2015/?slide=60. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015). Fig. 24 – Kerry Pieri in Aritzia coat (2015) Zuko, D. (2015). Kerry Pieri in Aritzia coat. Harper’s Bazaar. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5266/new-yorkfashion-week-street-style-fall-2015/?slide=60. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015). Fig. 25 – Louis Vuitton (2015) Weston Arnold, K. (2015). Louis Vuitton.Vogue. Available: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/ giorgio-armani/slideshow/details#55. (Last accessed: 28th September 2015). Fig. 26 – Raw shades (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Raw shades.


Fig. 27 - Burberry Porsum (2015) Vlamos,Y. (2015). Burberry Porsum.Vogue. Available: http://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/burberry-prorsum/ slideshow/collection#47. (Last accessed: 29th September 2015). Fig. 28 – History of fringing (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). History of fringing. Fig. 29 – Jimi Hendrix (2012) Stathakis, J. (2012). Jimi Hendrix. Available: http://www.guerrillacandy. com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/JimiHendrix.19680818.101.jpg. (Last accessed: 29th September 2015). Fig. 30 – Fringing through the years (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Fringing through the years. Fig. 31 – Topshop tasseled treats (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Topshop tasseled treats. Fig. 32 – Angle fringed bag (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Angle fringed bag. Fig. 33 – Tassels for days (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). Tassels for days. Fig. 34 – On the street (2015) Heathfield, J. (2015). On the street.

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