FOOD TERROIR
CONTENT PAGE Introduction Experimentation....................................... 4 Design Development and Process................................. 26 Concept Development......................................... 29 Plate Shaping and Production.............................. 38 Food Design Development................................... 58 Cooking and Food Design Experimentation.......... 63 Tofu............................................................ 70 Satay........................................................... 79 Pancake....................................................... 87 Salmon........................................................ 96 Final Outcome.............................................................. 104 Menu................................................................... 106 Final Recipes........................................................ 107 Satay........................................................... 108 Pancake....................................................... 109 Tofu............................................................. 110 Salmon........................................................ 111
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Modernist Cuisine - the term used to represent the idea of comtemporary cooking techniques utilizing science. The term “contemporary” is very much closely related to globalization era where everything is somehow associated with the rapid growth of technology. It is also a term used in an era where a lot of disciplines are inter-connecting with each other. The case here is design and food. “Food Design” is a term often used by people to relate to the idea of gastronomy - about cooking and experiencing good food. The “gastronomy” is using a lot of techniques that require other disciplines apart from culinary such as food scientist, artist, engineer, and designer. How can a designer contribute to create a fresh and attractive dining experience that could facilitate the modern cuisine?
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INTRODUCTION EXPERIMENTATION
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1. 38 seconds cake 2. plating 3. direct spherification 4. savoury powderising 5. revere spherification 6. salmon maltodextrin 7. isomalt moulding 8. thin moulding 9. banana crumble 10. salmon sousvide the introduction experimentations are done in order to familiarize with the modernist cuisine and get an idea on how it is supposed to be working the experimentations are the ones done in class and re-done at home and some are inspired from the modernist cuising book or the ChefSteps.com the experimentation consisting not only on how to cook but also on how to create good food plating and take good photos of garnished food
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38 SECONDS CAKE CAKE MIXTURE - WHIPPING SIPHON - RASPBERRY SAUCE
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1. whisk egg flour sugar into one and out inside whipping siphon. 2. charge one N2O charger 3. poke holes in the bottom of paper ups 4. press the mixture onto the paper cups 5. put inside the microwave for 38 seconds
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PLATING MALTODEXTRIN - PUREE - THICK N COLD
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*attempting to create chicken stick powder chicken stock + thick n cold 1. combine them togetherto make a thick texture 2. blender 3. mix in tapioce maltodextrin -- did not work, clump together powderising olive oil 1. combine olive oil with tapioca maltodextrin
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blended carrot puree +olive oil powderising boiled eggs plating usnig coriander flakes photography set up: IKEA low table natural lighting
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DIRECT SPHERIFICATION LEMON JUICE - OIL BATH
vegetable oil + lemon juice + calcium lactate did not work, the drops were created inside the oil but when it was taken out, the balls break *twice attempts and both fail
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SAVOURY POWDERISING MEAT FAT (CHICKEN BREAST) + TAPIOCA MALTODEXTRIN
powdersing chicken fat 1. put butter on top of the chicken breast 2. chicken breast baked inside the oven 3. let the chicken let out its juice and fat 4. pour the fat and put it through a fine sieve - halfway working as there wasnt much fat on the chicken and a bit watery but still feeling the taste which is nice
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REVERSE SPHERIFICATION LEMON JUICE - THYME
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(1) lemon juice + lemon thyme + calcium lactate (2) sodium alginate bath 1. combining (1) and let the bubble all out in the fridge 2. prepare the bath and let it sit in the fridge 3. gently drop one portion by one portion into the bath 4. wait for a while and the rinse in plain cold water -- the lemon thyme keeps going down to the bottom part of the sphere, but i t successfully add a bit of attraction to the sphere color -- the shape of the sphere could be played around with
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SALMON MALTODEXTRIN SALMON BELLY AT - TAPIOCA MALTODEXTRIN
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salmon belly + maltodextrin 1. pan fry salmon belly without any oil, as the fat woud come out from the fish 2. after around 5 minutes, oil will start puddling on the pan, transfer some to a bowl, and let the salmon still frying on the pan. 3. fry the salmn until it is a bit dry fried 4. transfer the oil through a fine sieve 5. combine it with tapioca maltodextrin and stir continuously -- it works!
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ISOMALT MOULDING ISOMALT + SMALL PIECES OF FRUIT
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combining isomalt and cold fruit mould: (1) using aluminium foil (2) using baking paper * both on top of circular container 1. boil isomalt 2. prepare fruit: cut into small pieces 3. pour isomalt onto the mould, just one thin layer 4. put the small pieces of fruit on top of not-yet-set isomalt -- result: the isomalt will slightly bubbling against the very different temperature of the fruit. and it willl create a massive juice to come out of the fruit -- aluminium foil is a wrong choice as it will get stuck to the tiny gaps in between the foil -- baking paper is better
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THIN MOULDING CHOCOLATE TEMPERING - ISOMALT - NUTELLA POWDER
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chocolate + isomalt + nutella powder 1. tempering chocolate using a bowl out on top of boilingwater 2. wait for the chocolate to melt entirely by itself NOTE: do not let any one drop of water goes in the bowl as it will ruin the whole chocolate and it will not melt completely 3. while the chocolate is tempering, boil the isomalt 4. make the nutella powder by combinig tapioca maltodextrin with nutella spread 5. prepare mould with baking paper on top of circular container 6. pour chocolate, and let it set in the fridge 7. pour in isomalt on top of it (fast) 8. spread nutella powder on top
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BANANA CRUMBLE 6 HOURS OVEN-BAKED
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banana crumble 1. blend one banand with water 2. pass through fine sieve 3. put in oven in low heat for 6 hours 4. smash it!
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SALMON SOUS-VIDE 50 DEGREE CELCIUS FOR 1 HOUR
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brine 1. dissolve salt & sugar in a bucket of water 2. put salmon inside the bowl 3. let it sit for 8 hours sous-vide 1. prepare a milk frother temperature and put it to stand on a chopstick 2. put salmon inside glad wrap and let all the air out 3. when it has reached 50C, put the salmon in 4. keep it at 50C-60C temperature with very low heat
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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT & PROCESS
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Opening Concept Indo-fusion dining experience, taking Indonesia as one starting point in designing the plating and food The ingriedients were intended to have a little touch from Indonesian taste and seasoning, but still with a bigger touch on the modernist cuisine which came from the western part of the globe The intended audience are also Australians, therefore the taste has to be made to suit the western tongue Indonesia is a country with a lot of mountain ranges, with various volcanoes which are still very active until today. It is also one of the main reason why Indonesia sometimes is still very prone to earthquakes. The design of the plate is intending to use that topography condition of Indonesia, specifically on its mountain attributes. Indonesia is also very rich in tradition and culture with a very close relationship with its natural resources and in some places the way of living are also still very traditional. The idea of “traditional” here then leads to “earth” as most of its population live very close to the nature.
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1945 Restaurant in Jakarta, Indonesia source: https://anakjajan.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/ dscf6069.jpg 28
CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
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Brainstorming starts from the idea of Indonesia as part of Asia Keywords street / herbs / spices / traditional / old-fashioned / strong taste
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MOUNTAIN developing the initial idea into 3D forms “vertical” instead of “horizontal”
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THEATRE the development of the expected theatre element revolves on how to make use of the mountain or cone-like shape to make a fresh and interacting performance one key element found: on how vertical plating concept would have a better play around the idea of “gravity” how verticality could make things or sauces to have the action of melting / dropping / running down a “hill”, creating a certain motion on the plating
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PLATE SHAPING & PRODUCTION
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RMIT GOSSARD WORKSHOP the development of the design mostly uses the workshop as a place to brainstorm and discuss with technical staff and also friends about the potential outcome The techniques used is mostly wood turning, with a lot of help from the technical staff there, learning from zero experience to finally being confident enough to do it independently just with supervision
special thanks, Ronnie, with lots of help in every processes Cam, who has tutored wood turning techniques very patiently Tate and Nick, with supervision and shape-refinement and all other technical staff which i haven’t got the chance to ask them their names
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PRODUCTION the production of the plating starts from developing the shape. The shape actually developed not deeply through sketches but rather on the machines that made the shape itself “exploring shape while making” the idea of researching shapes through the production process
wood turning is used to create the shape of the plates, it requires several practices and another skillful hands to really reach the desired shape, but the advantage of the lathing techniques is on how the maker could “control” the shape much easier and visible rather than using other techniques such as sawing or even 3D modelling like CNC machining.
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SILICONE FOOD-GRADE CHOCOLATE MOULD creating the choc-top mould
using terracota clay as the “medium” in between the wood and the pinkysil, to create a “gap” and to “make” the chocolate shape. the terracota is Fimo Air-dry from Staedtler Steps: 1. make the final shape of the wood plate, WITHOUT the concave for the bowl first (so there is a support while making the terracota shape), the wood is also not finished yet 2. put cling glad wrap to protect the wood from getting moist from the terracota 3. make the terracota clay and then let it dry overnight 4. Sand until smooth surface 5. Put vaseline, and cast onto pinkysil
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SILICONE FOOD-GRADE CHOCOLATE MOULD creating the choc-top mould problem: the silicone mould is too thick on the sides, would be better if it is thin, therefore it needed a lot of pinkysil, which is costly.
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MAHOGANY & WALNUT OIL wood turning is much easier and controllable by using the right type and condition of wood. The wood has to not contain any knots and have a good grain. Mahogany is the final material chosen, giving it has a good colour after finishing and also it is great for wood turning. It is sourced in Melbourne, bought from Mathews Timber in Ferntree Gully, Knoxfield. They quote a reasonable price and helpful staff that was friendly to RMIT students too. Walnut Oil is sourced from The Essential shop in Prahran Market, and actual cooking oil that make the wood water-repellent (note: note water resistant, has to re-coat every once in a while).
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TERRACOTA BASE the vertical plates has one disadvantage: when something pours down, it is going to be messy. Therefore a base to contain all the soups and sauces is required. to match the idea of “traditionality� of Indonesia, terracota is then used because of the dark reddish color it has. The material is the same used for the chocolate mould, Fimo air Staedtler, which is good for prototype stage. However there are a lot of problems while creating the plates: 1. when drying, it curls up because of not even drying on both sides of the plates, top & bottom 2. some thin plates crack 3. it is hard to get a fine and neat end result because of lack of skillful hands
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Trouble-shooting: 1. to have an even drying from top and bottom part of the plate 2. use talcum powder to help it not stick to the surface and also helps with the drying process (notice the white spots on top) 3. keep checking every few hours to keep it flat when it starts to curl up 4. when 18 hours has passed, rinse it once with water, let it soak in water for 10 minutes, and gently pressed it flat again
*the terracota is finished with mod-ponge to keep it water-repellent
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DIMENSION haute cuisine - H = 32mm ; D = 160mm amuse bousche - left to right 1. H = 65mm ; D = 98mm 2. H = 120mm ; D = 90mm 3. H = 87mm ; D = 94mm
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FOOD DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
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FOOD the development of the food chosen for the final product is by considering several important elemens: 1. Indonesian identity 2. spices and tastes 3. how to combine it with the modernist cuisine? 4. choosing modern techniques but with a fusion of traditional 5. foreseeing the outcome 6. is it possible to make it with the limited equipments, skills, and ingredients?
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FINAL FOOD DESIGN AMUSE BOUSCHE 1. satay made from pulled beef brisket, served with peanut sauce 2. pancake rice flour pancake with nutella soil, banana sheet, tea-scented cream 3. tofu soy beancurd tofu with ginger soup and dark chocolate
HAUTE CUISINE pan fry salmon stuffed with coleslaw coleslaw sauce: coconut milk base with indo spices
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COOKING & FOOD DESIGN EXPERIMENTATION
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PLANNING “cooking and experimenting� with the finalized idea of the intended design of the food is very much super complicated. The first try for the exhibiton did not turn out well because of lack of planning. Therefore for the presentation day, I did a huge planning first beforehand. 1. dropping down what is needed (by sketching again the idea) 2. wriitng down all the steps needed 3. determining which step should be done on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd day 4. Start!
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1 TOFU
soy beancurd tofu with a very smooth texture filling: coconut palm sugar sauce (sweet) soup: ginger soup sweetened with palm sugar (sweet) served with dark chocolate top (choc-top) (70% Lindt chocolate) (bitter) green tea powder for garnish
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SOY BEANCURD SILK TOFU source: online
a very smooth textured tofu-like dessert popular in Asia. In Indonesia, it is usually sold on the street and served with hot sweet ginger soup. it is thickened using gelatin leaves.
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COCONUT MILK & PALM SUGAR for filling source: online
creating filling for the soy beancurd the technique is following the moudling techniques used in moulding a silicone, which is not yet tested previously. Problem: because of the milk content of the filling, it is hard to take it out of the small cube mould, therefore glad wrap is used to take it out after it is frozen. the two-way mould technique is not working with the soy beancurd because it has a very smooth texture, therefore they could not combine together perfectly.
COCONUT & PALM SUGAR FILLING source: online
the palm sugar is grated and boiled together with the coconut milk
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TEMPERED DARK CHOCOLATE creating the choc-top several trials and errors Problems: 1. silicone mould is too thick, and might be better if created using two-way mould. (hard to take out) 2. have to create certain thickness (around 1-2 mm) so it can melt when exposed to the hot fumes (keep checking before it completely freeze) 3. before taking it out, wait for 3-5 mins so the chocolate soften a bit, to prevent cracking 4. of small cracks happen, can be “glued� using remaining melted chocolate and put inside the fridge again 5. dark chocolate sometimes is less maleable
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GINGER SOUP source: online
boiling raw minced ginger and pandan leaf, sweetened with palm sugar to create a traditional soothing sweet hot dessert it is used in boiling soup to create a theatre effect on the dark chocolate top, so the choc-top is covering the hot vaporization fumes from the boiling soup therefore the temperature inside the choc-top increases and make the chocolate melts creating like a “volcano eruption� performance.
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2 SATAY
pulled beef brisket, deep fried until super crisp made into balls, deep fried again watermelon filling to freshen peanut sauce for dressings cucumber and carrot for garnish and freshness
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SUPER CRISPY PULLED BEEF source: modernist cuisine
the idea is to replace the usual satay which use only cubed meat instead I follow a recipe from the modernist cuisine book about the deep fried “dehydrated� pulled beef (glazed with salty sauce at first fro 48 hours). one other reason to use this method is because it is very aesthetically pleasing to have shredded material on top of an oval cone shape. Problem: 1. have to keep checking the beef while it is dehydrating (on the microwave at full power) because the recipe might use different kind of microwave. 2. have to cut the beef in a consistent thickness which is quite thin (bbq thickness) 3. deep-frying challenges >> very hot oil and have to be very careful while cooking
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DEEP FRIED CUSTARD source: modernist cuisine
Problem: because it is put on top of a nearly rounded oval shape palte, the shredded beef then could not stay together especially while eating it with a satay stick, therefore the troubleshooting is by using custard and deep-frying it once again to “keep it together�. using sushi rice mould (round), and deep fry in very hot oil Problem: becasue teh sushi roll mould is a two-way mould, when in deep fry, it split into two pieces.
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PEANUT SAUCE
source: jamie oliver homemade Jamie Oliver is a great chef for easy cooking at home. the peanut sauce is using peanut butter and brown sugar to replace the palm sugar (darker color). the end peanut sauce didn’t use the chillies to dissipate the spicy taste.
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3 PANCAKE
thin rice flour pancake layered with fillings
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RICE FLOUR PANCAKE source: online
using pandan essence and rice flour to make pancake the result is a very gooey pancake compared to the ones using plain flour (bread-like, spongy) it could also be pan-fried with varying thickness, thin one will create crepe-like texture, with a various crispiness as well. the key is to always checking the stove temperature, and half of the pan-frying process has to be in low-heat (from experience)
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LITTLE PANCAKES the rice flour “pancake” then was experimented with a whole ranges of sizes, thickness, duration of frying, etc. to create desired crispiness and gooeyness because the end result is intended to be layered pieces of “little pancakes”, and the top and bottom most of the layered pancakes is intended to be super crispy.
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BANANA “SHEET� source: in-class experiments
the banana crumble experiment done in the first part of the project is used here, but this time it is not intentende to be cracked into small crumbles, but instead cutting it only to small banana sheets, therefore the duration of the dehydration process is becoming less as the super-crispiness was no longer compulsory.
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TEA-SCENTED WHIPPED CREAM source: ChefSteps
the whipped cream is trials and errors. thickened cream is not actually thick enough for the required intended whipped cream, so instead I use cream fraiche from Woolworths and it works really well, but then it has that bit sour taste from the cream type. the recipe is perfect with 100 ml scented tea water and 3 heaped tablespoon of cream fraiche. the N2O charges is released half (depressurized) and shaking it around 10 times, and better result happened when the siphon is refrigerated first, and the cream is presented fresh from the fridge.
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LAYERING the layering sequence: 1. crispy pancake 2. tea-scented cream 3. banana sheet 4. gooey pancake 5. tea-scented cream 6. nutella soil 7. repeat 8. closed with another crispy pancake 9. top up with whipped cream fresh from the fridge and siphon
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4 SALMON
pan fried salmon with coleslaw filling coleslaw: indonesian fusion dressings served with dehydrated crispy salmon skin harnished with dried herbs
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UMAMI-BOMB VEGETARIAN DEMI GLACE source: ChefSteps ingredients: vegetables: carrot beetroot eggplant cauliflower shitake mushroom onion chilli seaweed (kombu) tomato paste plus point: cheaper version of usual glace fast usage: haute cuisine sauce thickened with gelatin and thick and cold plus reduction -end result not used-
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SOUS-VIDE SALMON source: modernist cuisine
the salmon has to be vaccum-sealed with olive oil first for around 1 hour. Problem: I was using the coffee temperature thermometer and sometimes it is very hard to do sous vide while doing something else. -end result not used-
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DEHYDRATED SALMON SKIN source: modernist cuisine
creating a crispy salmon skin, cut from the salmon that is going to be used for the haute cuisine dish. it is coated with egg white plus maltodextrin first before put inside the oven for 4 hours, in low heat the result is a perfect crispy salmon skin with a really good skin color retained.
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FUSION COLESLAW the coleslaw sauce is not using the usual coleslaw dressing, but instead i infuse coconut milk, a bit of turmeric, coriander, and ground cumin. also adding a bit of tamarind paste to have sour taste like coleslaw usually has. the coleslaw mix is the ready to use one from Woolworths
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PAN FRY SALMON the raw salmon was cut in teh middle first for the suffed coleslaw later on. However it is actually better to cut it afterwards because once the salmon is cooked it then to break apart. The cutting to stuff salmon is also better and more neat if cut not on the grain line is. The salmon is dressed with a touch of sweet indonesian soy sauce to give it that bit of sweetness kick.
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FINAL OUTCOME
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on the
m o un t a i n s dazing o to Semeru’s air a touch of Indonesia
st ar t er s 1
satay
glazed with sweet sauce served with fresh picks, sesame seeds, and coconut rendang dressings
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pancake
with banana crumble, hazelnut, and scented tea
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tofu
with palm & ginger soup, and scented balls served with dark chocolate
MENU main
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special thanks to the ever aspiring hands of Gossard Folks, Ron Cam Tate Nick and all others! :]
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salmon
with fresh and crispy picks served with peanut demi glace
FINAL RECIPES
some are modified from the source to suit the availability ingredients here in Melbourne
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SATAY BEEF 200 gr 50 gr 34 gr 5,5 gr 2 gr
beef brisket soy sauce fish sauce sugar salt
Filling: watermelon or any other fresh and sweet taste fruit (to balance the deep fry) PEANUT SAUCE 50 gr 120 gr 2 tbsp 1 tbsp
brown sugar peanut butter smooth fish sauce soy sauce
CUSTARD 32 gr 250 gr 25 gr 9 gr 30 gr
plain flour vegetable stock egg yolks cornflour butter
Garnish: shredded carrot and cucumber 1. cut beef brisket into thin slices, following the grain 2. make the glaze, by combining all the ingredients 3. put the beef one by one into the glaze, and reserve in sealed plastic bag, vaccumed 4. reserve in fridge for 48 hours 5. microwave beef brisket in microwave HIGH, 4-5 minutes 6. pulled beef with hands 7. deep fry in high heat until dark brown and crispy 8. drain 9. boil plain flour and vegetable stock until boiling 10. blend egg yolks and cornflour together until smooth 11. combine with (9) 12. put in butter and stir until combined 13. put hot custard inside sushi mould 14. fill 1/4 part of the mould with beef, add watermelon, and do the same with the other half part of the mould 15. close the mould, reserve in fridge overnight 16. deep fry in hot oil until it floats 17. drain 18. put satay stick inside
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PANCAKE PANCAKE FLOUR 100 gr rice flour Rose Brand 50 gr plain flour 1tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 87.5 gr white sugar 200 ml water 4 drops pandan essence TEA - SCENTED WHIPPED CREAM one tea bag indonesian jasmine tea 0.5 L water 3 heaped tbsp cream fraiche BANANA SHEET one banana 100 ml water NUTELLA SOIL 1 tbsp 3 tbsp
nutella tapioca maltodextrin
Garnish: lemon zest 1. combine dry ingredients for the pancake flour, and then stir gently while putting water one portion at a time, until smooth 2. let it sit (not in the fridge) for 2-3 hours 3. put butter in pan, just s drop and spread with kitchen towel (so just a very thin layer) 4. pan fry with desired thickness 5. boil 0.5 L water to infuse the tea 6. let it rest for 1-2 hours 7. combine 100 ml tea water with 3 heaped tablespoon of cream fraiche 8. put inside whipping siphon, charge it with one cartridge of N2O, and release half of the gas (around 5 seconds) 9. shake it a few times, and try to see the whipped cream, keep shaking until the desired thickness is out 10. put in fridge overnight for better result (best result if used fresh from the fridge) 11. blend one banana with 100 ml water 12. dehydrate in oven on low heat for 4 hours 13. combine nutella and tapioca maltodextin 14. stack them up! 109
TOFU SOY BEANCURD 400 ml one dash 2 strips 2 sheets
soy milk salt pandan leaves gelatin
GINGER SOUP 15 gr 80 gr 400 ml
raw ginger palm sugar water
CHOC TOP Lindt Dark Cooking Chocolate 70% cocoa Garnish: green tea powder 1. combine soy milk and 2 strips of pandan leaves, and put in sauce pan, make it warm, do not leave it until boiling (soy milk is very easy to burn) 2. while waiting, put gelatin sheets in cold water until soft 3. put in softened gelatin sheets in the sauce pan and stir until completely dissolved, turn off stove before boiling 4. put inside fridge for 4-5 hours 5. minced raw ginger and put in boiling water until the fragrance is out 6. grate palm sugar and put it inside the boiling water until all dissolved 7. reserve 8. temper dark chocolate in a bowl on top of a sauce pan with water, until all melted into a smooth chocolate liquid 9. put inside silicone mould and tilt it around to create a thin layer covering around the mould 10. pour remaining chocolate liquid but leave a bit off (around 2cm deep) and put it back in the bowl and put in very low heat to keep it liquid 11. put inside fridge 12. after 30 minutes take it out and do the tilting action again to make a stronger base on the top cone (prevent cracking) 13. put inside freezer 14. once frozen, take it out carefully by squeezing the mould balanced on every side, and the top side the last to push it out 15. serve! soy beancurd with the hot ginger soup (has to be right after boiling) and put the choc-top on the top to let it m
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SALMON 1/4 kg 1/4 bag
salmon with the skin on ready to go coleslaw veggies
SKIN 25 gr 12.5 gr
egg whites tapioca maltodextrin
DRESSING 3 heaped tbsp 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp 1 tsp 40 gr
coconut milk ground cumin powder coriander powder turmeric powder tamarind paste palm sugar
Garnish: dried herbs 1. cut the skin off the salmon carefully, and reserve the salmon meat inside the freezer 2. boil the skin for 30 minutes with low heat 3. combine egg whites and tapioca maltodextrin until smooth 4. brush it on top of the salmon skin 5. dehydrate it for 4 hours on low heat oven 4. blend dressing ingredients on blender, put palm sugar more or tamarind paste until desired taste
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FOOD TERROIR Design in the Research Context 2015 RMIT University with Scott Mayson Marcus Cher
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REFERENCES Modernist Cuisine volume 1-6 ChefSteps.com Texture Book
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JENNIFER WILLIAM s3507267
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