Macro trends research project

CWK3

Trends book

research project Jenni Liinavuori

BA Fashion Marketing and Communication, Level 6, 2016/2017 Fashion Culture 3 Macro Trends Aleix Perdigo

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION -BACKGROUND 6 -OUTLINING THE EARLY 2000’S 10 -SOCIAL 10 -SEMIOTICS 10 PURPOSE -HYPOTHESIS 11 ANALYSIS -CASE STUDIES 1-12 12 LITERATURE REVIEW / METHODS

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RESEARCH CONCLUSIONS -CURRENT STATE OF THE MACRO TREND -THE MACRO TREND IN THE FUTURE

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BIBLIOGRAPHY 26

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INTRODUCTION BACKGROUND The beginning of the 2000 was still continuations of the trends that started from the 90’s and before. Trends from the 90’s like grunge and minimalism were evolving in the 00’s fashion. The beginning of 2000 was also highly influenced by the rising of technology. Internet arriving to everybody’s homes in the late 90’s and making fashion accessible in all around the world. TV and Internet started to gain power against fashion magazines that were dominating the fashion coverage.

The futuristic Y2K fashion was built around the optimism of technology and the hype of the new millennium. Clothes styles were futuristic, having a disco and modern feel.

Monochromatic, shiny clothes with rhinestones, studs, glitter, halter tops, moon boots, alien inspired hairstyles and synthetic and metallic looking materials were key elements in the Y2K era of fashion. Also the introduction of the first iPod in 2001 was adapted to the style and the iPod and headphone became major accessories. It was the promising time of modern technology after the angst from the 90’s.

The tech obsession was also featured in many music videos with tech visuals and computer graphics, futuristic fonts creating the Y2K aesthetic not only the videos pop music remerged in a more electronic format. The long waited ‘’future’’ was here and brought consumer friendly device, computer and digital spaces as well a new way to express our creativity. (theguardian.com, 2016) The popularity of the Y2K aesthetic didn’t last long when the 9/11 happened. The style took a major step back and people started to wear more casual and safer clothes again. Especially in the USA, jeans, camouflage and American made was embraced by the mainstream.

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So as the early 2000’s was forgetting the 90’s trends and the hype of the new millennium, fashion started to be highly influenced from hip-hop and pop music.

Baggy cargo pants were popular among both men and women until the 2007. Women would usually match their cargo pants with extremely short crop top which would also show their pierced belly bottom. Though cargo pants were popular through the whole early 2000’s, there were also two major denim trends introduced and popularised by Hollywood stars like Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, Gwen Stefani and Paris Hilton: low rise and flared jeans.

Sometimes the jeans were barely on the hips and exposing the girl’s tongs, which is mostly known called as the whale tail. Denim wasn’t only seen in jeans and jackets. It was used in everything, hats, skirts, dresses, vests you could name it. It was seen it different colours, it could be washed out, sandblasted or stitched together. Denim was even used by the celebrities in the red carpet events.

ing big logos on their products. Brands with long heritages also re-branded themselves to have a more hip look. Burberry plaid was adapted by the young consumers and Louis Vuitton had Takashi Murakami to design a new line of bags.

While pop stars like Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera and Jennifer Lopez were highly idolised and looked up in terms of their style there was a wave of pop punk that also created mainstream trend among the teenagers. Bands Blink-182, Sum 41 and singer Avril Lavigne were one of the teen idols that popularised the style of pop punk.

Girls who didn’t want to look and dress like a Barbie or a pop star embraced the style as their own. They would rather hang with their friends, skate and goof around. The style would feature dark eye make-up, tie, camouflage, stud belt, skate shoes, fishnet stockings and shirts and body modifications.

A good example also about counteracting to the Barbie princess look was the popularity of Bratz dolls, which were originally released in 2001. The brand was following the current pop culture trends, the way the dolls were dressed was highly resembling the style of the early 2000’s, with miniskirts, heavy makeup and overall edgier look.

Inspired by hip-hop and the 80’s tracksuits returned into the early 2000’s as Juicy Couture (or knock offs). Juicy was usually written with rhinestones across the butt and matched with a pair of UGG boots and truck hat that were the early 2000’s ‘’it’’ items.

Because of the advantaged technology in the 2000’s celebrities gained a lot more power on creating fashion trends. If a celebrity was seen with a trendy fashion item it immediately created a big buzz around the brand or a specific product.

As for hair highlight were popular for both women and men until the late 00’s.

Bleached and spiked hair were popular styles for men and for women long and straight hair style from the 90’s still continued to be popular. Crimped hair, all different kind of hair accessorized like the butterfly clips, zigzag part and hair pinned back on the side were also one of the biggest hair trends among women at the time. Also chunky highlights became a big trend in the 2002, this style was made fashionable by pop stars like Kelly Clarkson and Christina Aguilera.

The early 2000’s also created new luxury consumers due to the reason that luxury also became easier to access for the mainstream audience. Rappers are good example of consumers who started to adapt the luxury brands into their style. In the 80’s and 90’s rappers were known for calling brands in their songs in order to create street credibility. But in the 2000’s wearing luxury brands was to indicate your status, success and wealth to others. (refinery29. com, 2013) At the same time the ‘’logo mania’’ was born which was adapted by the luxury as well as the fast fashion brands us8

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OUTLINING THE EARLY 2000’S

SEMIOTICS

All though the early 2000’s has been highly considered of the era of pop culture from Britney Spears to Disney Channel, MTV, reality shows, Mean Girls and Paris Hilton.

The many styles of 2000’s were adapted from many other subcultures like punk and hip-hop that created many mainstream trends.

The early 2000’s trends were the fusion of the trends seen in the previous times. It was expressive and colourful era. And attitude was something you could not just get with the clothes you were wearing, you had to own up to the too cool to care boldness.

Showing your status was important and luxury brands became more easily accessible to the mainstream as ever before. Internet, TV and celebrities started to have even bigger role of setting new trends.

When people are anxious about the present or the future people can get easily nostalgic. The times of the past represent safety and familiarity which is because it is predictable. The familiarity makes consumers comfortable. Nostalgia increases social connectedness but weakens people’s resistance to spend money. This is why nostalgia can be very effective selling too and has been used by marketers. Childhood memories will bring back memories of family and friends and when times were simpler. Furthermore nostalgia grabs people’s attention easily. Using memories from the past has been proven to be effective marketing strategy, especially during recession periods when people wish having the ‘’good old times’’ back. Companies who are using nostalgia are decreasing their targets resistance on spending and also makes it easy to lift up the prices in terms of getting a higher revenue. (en.grenoble-em.com, 2014) The usefulness of nostalgia depends with age.

According to psychologist Erica Hepper the level of nostalgia is usually high among young adults, decreasing in the middle age and rising during old age. (nytimes.com, 2013) When brand are using positive references from the past on their communication it humanizes the brand and creates meaningful connection and emotions with the past and present. (forbes.com, 2016)

SOCIAL The 2000’s are still fresh in the people’s minds and especially on those who were born either in the late 80’s or 90’. Giving it a big nostalgia factor. Many trends and styles were tried out for the first time and that was the time when we started to think about how our appearance was linked with our identities. While looking back to the old times and styles can make many people embarrassed but the old clothes and style can also remind many people of some of their greatest memories.

Nostalgia was originally described as a “neurological disease of essentially demonic cause” by Johannes Hoffer, the Swiss doctor who came up with the term in 1688.

The word nostalgia coming from Greek nostos meaning return and algos pain, nostalgia is seen as sad but often positive emotion. Nostalgia makes it easy for us to connect with other people. When we are sharing memories with each other’s we feel happier. (cmswire.com, 2015)

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PURPOSE HYPOTHESIS The purpose of this project will be to prove that early 2000’s is a macro trend which is happening currently and predicted to come back by using its nostalgic factor that is appealing to the millennials.

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ANALYSIS CASE STUDY: CHARMED Charmed was an American television series that aired the first time in 1998 until the 2006. The show ran in The WB for eight seasons. The series is following the life of three sisters (and later of four) who are good witches and are fighting against the worlds demons. The show was starred actresses Shannen Doherty (Prue), Holly Marie Combs (Piper), Alyssa Milano (Phoebe) and Rose McGowan (Paige). The show became popular right after its first episode was aired with 7.7 million viewers which was the highest rated debut in the history of The WB. Charmed achieved a cult following and because of its huge success, the show

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was developed into video and board games, novels and comic books.

This year on the fifth of January, The CW announced that it is working of the reboot of the show. What is known now is that the show is on its script stage and cast of the show hasn’t been done yet and that the reboot will not be a prequel to its original series. (hollywoodreporter.com, 2017)

CASE STUDY: JUICY COUTURE VELOUR TRACKSUITS The Juicy Couture Velour Tracksuits were popular during most of the 2000’s and was adapted by women of all ages and sizes.

It was an attempt to make gym wear sexy though actually the tracksuits didn’t have anything to do with actually going to the gym. In the early 2000’s Juicy Couture had the biggest fashion influencers of Hollywood wearing their tracksuits in different range of colours with sequins written words like juicy in their bums. Like all trends the tracksuits got forgotten and was changed into yoga pants. By the year 2014 Juicy Couture had closed all its stores in the US.

Now Juicy Couture velour tracksuits are making a comeback. Vetements collaborated on their Spring 17 collection with the brand which was showcased on the Couture Week in Paris. Vetements gave a modern update to the tracksuits with high waisted pants and using crystals to write Juicy on the sleeves and of course across the butt.

Now again Hollywood stars like Kylie Jenner and Rihanna have been seen showing off their Vetements x Juicy Couture outfits, showing that the 2000’s is going to be the coolest trend in the 2017. (cosmopolitan.com, 2016)

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CASE STUDY: BLINK0182 The American pop punk band formed in 1992 which gained a massive success after their album releases in the 1999 and in 2001 and were constantly played in the radio and MTV. Blink-182 was one of the biggest music influences to the pop punk style not just musically but also in style wise. The pop punk style was later on evolved to the emo pop punk scene in the mid 2000’s. The band split in 2005 but then reunited and released an album in 2011 though without a much success.

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In 2016 though the band made a huge comeback with its seventh studio album, California release in July 1, 2016. The album reached its first number one spot on the billboard’s 200 chart in 15 years. It also took Drake from the number one spot after holding it for nine weeks. It was the bands biggest week in album sales since 2003. (altpress.com, 2016)

CASE STUDY: CAMOUFLAGE One of the major trends in the 2000’s was camouflage and it could be seen almost in everything. A popular look taken from the hip-hop scene was the baggy camo pants mixed with a tight tank top. Avril Lavigne was one of the biggest influencers of this trend and brought the look into the mainstream, even wearing it in the red carpet events.

The camouflage is again becoming more contemporary. The camouflage is again seen in pants, shirts, jackets and it just keeps trending. It was already 16 weeks ago went Bella Hadid posted a picture on her Instagram account posing in blue camo pants matched with black sports bra. Other big style influencers seen wearing camo have been Rihanna, Kylie Jenner and it’s already seen on the hottest street style blogs.

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CASE STUDY: TINTED SHADES These sunglasses were dominating the early 2000’s. The shapes were varying from aviators to massive oversized and rimless glasses made popular by A-listers like Paris Hilton, Nicole Richie and Lindsay Lohan. It was also common to have little crystals in the corner of the shades. The tinted shades wasn’t only a trend adapted by women, also men were wearing these shades just like David Beckham and Justin Timberlake.

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Now the style has been seen in the runway shows of Gucci, worn by stars like Selena Gomez, model sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid even Drake has been seen wearing them.

The trend is also seen everywhere in the social media, everybody is now posting pictures wearing tinted shades in different colours and forms.

CASE STUDY: Y2K CLUB LOOK Like stated before the fashion in the beginning of 2000’s was highly influenced by technology and futuristic approach. Metallic colours, rhinestones and all kind of shiny elements with outer space theme or disco feel was reflected to the clothes.

Polish fashion brand MISBHV adapted the look on their SS17 women collection taking elements of the 00’s clubbing scene and style and gave it a present look. The collection featured garments having MISBHW written with rhinestones, low rise baggy pants, wallet chains, double denim and lace up details.

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CASE STUDY: DONNIE DARKO

24th of January 2017 Richard Kelly revealed that he is planning to create an original sequel of the movie which will be much more ambitious and bigger than the original movie was. This though will not be happening right away and could take couple of years, Kelly first has to finish with his ongoing film project as well as the budget required for the movie has to be secured. (i-d.vice.com, 2017)

The American movie released in 2001 directed and written by 25 year old Richard Kelly and starring the 18 year old Jake Gyllenhaal. The science fiction film got a small cinematic release but after it was released in DVD the film have become a cult classic.

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CASE STUDY: TRIANGLE BIKINIS OVER A CROP TROP The style made known by the lead singer of No Doubt, Gwen Stefani. In 2001 when the band released its album Rock Steady, Gwen was most of the time seen wearing the triangle bikinis over a crop top. This look also became one of her signature look among many others.

Last year on her spring ready to wear 2016 collection, the New York designer Rosie Assoulin was clearly inspired by the pop stars look from the early 2000’s and implemented the look on many of her designs updating it with a modern and more elegant twist.

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CASE STUDY: PUFFA JACKETS The revival of the 80’s fashion highly inspired the trends seen in the early 2000’s.

As well did the hip-hop culture, it wasn’t just the tracksuits and baggy pants that the hip-hop was known about introducing to the mainstream. The puffa or puffy jackets were also highly popular throughout the early millennium. These jackets stayed popular until the very end of the decade when the 80’s revival in the 2000’s fashion started to dye and disappear.

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At the moment the puffa jackets have become one of the most wanted ‘’it’’ things in the field of fashion. You can see all the Hollywood stars wearing them and the latest street style pictures from the fashion weeks all around the world really shows that these jackets are now the must buy items and probably are here to stay for many seasons to come.

CASE STUDY: HARRY POTTER In 1999 the author of Harry Potter, J.K. Rowling, sold the movie rights to Warner Bros and the first movie based on the seven part book series was realised in 2001.

The last book of the series was published in 2007 which was divided into two movies, the first part released in 2010 and second in 2011. The Harry Potter saga is not only the most sold book series in history but also the second most successful movie saga. Based on the books and the movies there have been made three amusement parks and merchandise making the Harry Potter brand worth of 25 billion dollars.

It didn’t took more than five years to J.K. Rowling expanding the Harry Potter franchise. A play, Cursed Child, based on the Harry Potter story was premiered in 2016.

The events of the play are situated 19 years later where the last book ended. Furthermore a spin-off movie Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them, based on the Harry Potter films, was released in November 2016. Produced and written by J.K. Rowling.

The spin-off is planned to have two sequels.

The second movie is expected to premier in 2018 and the followed third movie in 2020.

Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them really proves the fact that nostalgia sells, the movie has already grossed over 800 million dollars worldwide.

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CASE STUDY: OLD ENGLISH TEXT MT FONT The font referred as Old English text font or linked to gothic or metal scene this style occurred the first time in the 80’s and 90’s subcultures. The font was also linked to the LA gang cultures and wearing something featuring the font could have get you in trouble if you really weren’t linked to its meaning. It was in the 2000’s when Gwen Stefani was brave enough to put this font on her cropped white wife beater and jewellery and introduced it to the pop culture audience. The font was also featured in the No Doubts, The singles collection’s album cover which was released in 2003.

Now this font is seen everywhere and has become really popular and mainstream.

From Gucci to Kanye West’s Life of Pablo merchandise, VETEMENTS, and MISBHV garments and cheaper knock off that are using the font in order of imitating the style of these brands. (dazeddigital.com,2016)

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CASE STUDY: LOW RISE JEANS/PANTS Maybe one of the most memorable trend in the early 2000’s. Made popular by Britney Spears and other super stars which were even worn in red carpet events. The jeans were usually matched with short crop tops revealing the belly, belly piercing and tattoo situated in the lower back. The low rise jeans were seen in many different styles like flared, skinny, boyfriend and loose. The low rise style was also implemented in the baggy cargo pants.

Though the high waisted jeans are still going strong among the mainstream consumers it has been a clear swift on the waist line dropping lower. In the New York Spring 16 fashion week designers like Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton showcased their interpretation of the low rise pants trend.

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LITERATURE REVIEW/ METHODS The data used for this project was collected from variable articles and researches. Because the chosen macro trend is so relevant at the moment all the data was collected from online using secondary sources. Because there was many articles found about the macro trend the data used was analysed in quantitative. For example the case studies used for the analysis were selected based on how the amount of information and related imagery was found about it.

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RESEACH CONCLUSIONS CURRENT STATE OF THE MACRO TREND At the moment the influence of 90’s fashion are still dominating the nostalgia trends of fashion. But it can be seen that the trends from the early 2000’s are already interpreted inside many fashion brands, just looking the evidence of the 16 runways and celebrities like Rihanna and Kylie Jenner owning up to the trend already.

FUTURE OF THE MACRO TREND And as the cycle of fashion is known to move towards and the 80’s and 90’s being trendy for many years already it only makes sense that what is coming next is the early 2000’s nostalgia. Also as the analysis proves there are already many trends appearing from the early 2000’s. This though doesn’t necessary mean that all the trends from the 2000’s are coming back in style.

And often the trends are updated to be modern and go with the current stage of fashion and style. Also the fact that these trends are already tried out once makes it easier to adapt them to the current styles.

2000’s known to be the big mash up of mixing and matching different styles probably is not going to happen again.

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