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Range Proposal Report
M.i.h. Jeans Range Proposal Report Fashion Buying FASH 30110 International Fashion Business 18/19 Jenny Thai | N0645255 Word Count: 2,716 PAGE | 3
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CON T EN T S
01.
27.
Introduction
Range Proposal
Aims & Objectives (p3), The Denim Market (p4)
Creative Influences (p28), Best Practices: Circular Economy & C2C (p29), Product Design and Rationale (p31), Assortment Plan (p33),
05.
Specifications (p41), Sizing (p45)
Current Season
46.
Historical Sales (p6), SWOT (p7), Summary (p8)
Conclusion
11.
47.
Current Sourcing Strategy
Further Information
Sustainability Manifesto (p12), 2019 Sustain-
List of Illustrations (p47), References (p49),
ability Goals (p12), Technical Requirements
Bibliography (p53), List of Appendices (p57)
Denim Overview (p5), Range Analysis (p6),
(p12), Paradise Capsule (p13), Raw Materials (p14), Manufacturing Countries (p15), Turkey (p19), Italy (p20), Macro Environment & Competitors PAGE | 5(p22), PESTLE (p23), Summary (p26)
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Chapter 1
Introduction. As a fashion buyer, time planning and risk management are two key components to ensure relevancy and success within the fashion industry. Within the five key stages of planning, sourcing and range planning, production, intake, and trading, the buying cycle (fig. 1.1) highlights the processes and key events to offer the right product, at the right price, time, quantity and place (Goworek, 2007). Following the buying cycle, this report will propose a pertinent range for Mih Jeans for the Autumn/Winter 2019 season.
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Planning
Trading
Intake
Sourcing & Range Planning
Production
fig. 1.1: The Buying Cycle. Source: Author’s Own (2018) PAGE | 2
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Aims & Objectives The aim of this report is to suggest an appropriate Autumn/ Winter 2019 collection for Mih Jeans. Objectives: • To explore the influences behind Mih’s decision making • To investigate Mih’s supply chain and rationale behind their chosen manufacturing countries • To examine and apply creative influences to produce a pertinent range
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The Denim Market Over the past decades, the denim market has undergone remarkable transformations. Initially introduced by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss as sturdy riveted workwear pants in the 1870s (Marsh & Trynka, 2002), jeans have been considered a wardrobe staple since. However, due to the rise of the athleisure trend and increasingly health-conscious consumers, the market has seen halt in growth with a slower CAGR of 0.2% (Euromonitor International, 2018). According to EDITED (2018), the denim market is showing growth again since 2017, particularly in the luxury market. The global denim market is anticipated to experience a CAGR of 5.8% between 2018-2023 and reach $79,211.0 million by 2023 (P&S Market Research, 2018). Apart from more active consumers, the denim market is also challenged by the increasing demand for sustainability, particularly by millennials and Generation Z (Euromonitor International, 2018). It is estimated that the production and four-year lifespan of one pair of jeans, including its disposal, is producing 415 kg of CO2. At the same time, 6,819 litres of water is needed solely to grow enough cotton to produce one pair of jeans (Styles, 2014). New technology and systems are on the rise to tackle said issues, such as laser treatments or drydyeing processes to make indigo dyeing more sustainable (just style, 2018).
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Chapter 2: Current Season Denim Category Overview. Within the denim category, Mih strongly focus on their jeans offering. Complementing their 70s-inspired DNA, the highest share can be found within flared styles. This suggests that flared shapes are a fundamental part of MiH’s core offering, along with slim styles (see Appendix A). Fashion and trend styles, on the other hand, are visible through variations of their key styles, using materials, such as velvet, adding embroidery, and other detailing, like frills (fig. 2.1). It reflects MiH emphasis on creating a timeless offering. Furthermore, the designs are currently offered in 9 different sizes, a limited number compared to their competitors. PAGE | 5
Fig. 2.1: Lou Jeans with Frills. Source: Mih Jeans (2018)
Range Analysis Analysing Mih’s Autumn/Winter 2018 range, 46% of products fall under the denim category. In total, the range consists of 15 jeans styles and 7 other denim products. Styles with the widest depth are the Mimi Jean, Marrakesh Jean and Daily Jean. Fashion and trend products include cropped styles, the use of cord, and embroidery.
Historical Sales In 2018, Mih Originals was released, a collection of
November 2018, Mih had a competitive advantage
the five best-selling and signature jean styles (Mih
over classic premium brand due to their more fashion
Jeans, 2018). Analysing these styles on EDITED, a
forward straight leg styles. She further reported that
correlation with bestsellers can be found. Considering
the customisation option was rather successful, which
first sell-outs over the past three months and products
highlights a certain demand for personalised items.
that have been replenished at least twice, the
Lastly, she stated that online exclusive styles were an
Marrakesh (flared) and Daily jeans (straight) are by
experimental area for the brand with mixed outcomes,
far the best-selling items. Other styles that retailers
suggesting that this area may be further explored (see
have chosen to replenish at least twice include the
Appendix B). Considering Mih’s performance and
Cult jeans, Lou jeans, and Paris jeans. According to
Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, a number of lessons
Laura Gilbert, Head of Merchandising at Mih Jeans
can be learned, as shown in the following SWOT
before the company had to file for administration in
analysis (fig. 2.2).
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strenghts
SWO T
• Timeless products • Known for their 70s-inspired jeans • Offer online customisation (limited to specific pieces) • Brand has a ‘cult status’ • Sustainability manifesto with a clear action plan • Competitive advantage over classic premium retailers due to fashion-forward washes, observed in straight
opportunities
leg styles
• Introduce more trend and fashion items overall, as these have been proven to be particularly successful in straight leg styles • Introduce more inclusive sizes, e.g. tall, petite, plus-sized etc. • Widen denim offering (more skirts, shirts, etc.) • Offer different lengths, potentially as an online exclusive, as this is an area that may be further explored • As seen with competitors, zippers may be replaced with buttons as these are easier to recycle and are thus more sustainable
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Fig. 2.2: SWOT. Source: Author’s Own (2018)
width, resulting in limited offering • Within the denim category, a strong focus is placed on jeans, neglecting other potential products • The premium price points may lead to loss of costumers to competitors • The sizing is very limiting compared to competitors
• Mass market may post threat with cheap prices • Denim market may be saturated • 70s aesthetic may become unpopular • Preference for athleisure wear
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threats
• Sustainability concerns: cotton is a water-intensive crop
weaknesses
• Compared to competitors, Mih have a small range
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Summary Going forward, it is suggested to keep a similar ratio regarding jeans silhouettes as these reflect the brand’s DNA and have proven to be successful. More fashion forward items may be added to their timeless styles, strengthening Mih’s competitive advantage over other premium brands. Points of improvement for the following season include the extension of denim offering apart from jeans, and introducing more inclusive sizes, potentially as an online exclusive.
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Chapter 3
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Current Sourcing
Sustainability Manifesto Through a sustainability manifesto, Mih are highlighting their environmental commitment along with actionable planning. This is crucial to consider within the parameters of sourcing. Particularly important are the goals set for 2019. From the manifesto it further becomes evident that currently, 90% of fabric is sourced within Europe, such as Italian stretch denim. An exception is made for exclusive Japanese denim (Mih Jeans, 2018).
2019 Sustainability Goals * Start using reduced impact metal buttons and rivets * Target for 10% denim to contain post-consumer recycled cotton * All woven, paper and leather brand labels to be made from recycled materials
Technical Requirements Analysing Mih’s offering and manifesto, factories require facilities and expertise within sustainability, laser treatments, and waterreduced washes. Additionally, a number of fashion styles feature PAGE | 12 and frilled hems. embroidery
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Paradise Capsule The Paradise Capsule was launched in June 2018 and consists of Mih’s most sustainable denim. This collection is particularly important to consider, as Mih’s aim is to apply this level of sustainability to all of their offering by 2020 (Mih Jeans, 2018). The Paradise denim is dyed with a certified low-impact raw indigo wash (Sourcing Journal, 2018). To further reduce water consumption, the 10-ounce two-by-one selvedge denim has been produced with organic cotton. In fact, comparing the production of chemically grown cotton to organic cotton, water consumption may be reduced by 7,500 litres in a regular t-shirt (Textile Exchange, 2018). Furthermore, trims have also been taken into account, utilising recycled polyester badges and recycled paper hangtags. The fabric itself has been developed with Isko, a Turkish denim mill that also works with high street brands, including Diesel and Topman. Isko is the first mill to have received the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and EU Ecolabel. They further give more transparency by implementing and publishing life-cycle assessments regarding environmental footprint, energy and water usage (Drapers, 2018).
Raw Materials
From Mih’s sustainability manifesto, it is evident that the majority of material is sourced in Europe. On a global scale, the European Union only represents 1% of the cotton production worldwide, mainly grown in Greece, Spain and Bulgaria (European Commission, 2018). It is therefore to be assumed that cotton is sourced from Turkey, an EU candidate for several years. In fact, Turkey is the only country in Europe to offer BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative, 2018) and represents approximately 15% of the countries to export GOTS certified cotton (GOTS, 2019). This is further advantageous as environmental and financial savings as well as shorter lead times can be achieved when producing locally.
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Manufacturing Countries
“Where things really need to start is for you to know your supply chain (…), where your manufacturing is occurring. You can’t really be disruptive [or] innovative until you take this very first important step of actually knowing where stuff is made and benchmarking the environmental performance of those facilities before you get started so you know where to go.”
Linda Greer, senior scientist, at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2018 (see just style, 2018) PAGE | 15
Home Market & Distribution Centre
Fig. 3.1 Mih Manufacturing Countries. Source: Author’s Own (2019)
Production
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Observations have shown that Mih are manufacturing in two countries, namely Turkey and Italy (fig. 3.1). Both of these countries are renowned for their textile industry and are located within Europe. Generally speaking, manufacturing in Europe is considered to be more expensive than in Far Eastern Countries due to higher labour costs. However, this is questioned by Hines in his Iceberg Theory (fig. 3.2), where he unfolds non-transparent costs that need to be considered additionally to the obvious labour costs. According to Hines, a competitive advantage may be made achieved when sourcing on-shore (Hines, 2002). Although Hines is considering the manufacturing of British retailers within the UK, many points of the theory can still be applied to manufacturing within Europe. Due to the shorter distance to Mih’s distribution centre in Lutterworth, UK, leadtimes are shorter, more flexibility and transparency is given, communication costs are lower, factory visits can be done with higher ease, and time differences do not pose an issue among other benefits. Combined with the fact that cotton is sourced locally, the supply chain is more manageable, and lead-times are even further reduced.
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Fig. 3.2: Iceberg Theory. Source: Jackson & Shaw (2000)
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Turkey Turkey has a long history in denim manufacturing. Since the 1980s, it was described as a textile country and is now one of the leading exporters in global denim trade. In fact, in 2015, England was the second largest market regarding denim clothing with a value of $236 million, with 50% of denim exports being women’s jeans (Meyanci, 2018). On a global scale, Turkey’s share of denim fabric exports is 9% (Innovation Textiles, 2018), which may be linked to the country’s position as the seventhlargest cotton producer in the world (just style, 2018). Within the cotton sector, IPUD, the Turkish Good Cotton Practices Association, was founded in 2013 in association with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). As of 2017, 342 farmers were licenced by BCI, producing a total of 30,000 metric tonnes of Better Cotton lint (Better Cotton Initiative, 2018). Currently, the country is challenged by a currency crisis and an inflation rate of almost 25% (Financial Times, 2018). For the Mih as a British retailer, however, this may be beneficial as a weaker lira translates into less expensive products (The New York Times, 2018), which may give them a competitive advantage.
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Italy Italy holds the reputation of producing luxurious and high-quality goods. Additionally, a significant bond to denim can be found, as the port city Genova is considered to be the home of jean production and sales (Heddels, 2018). Italian Denim is generally associated with stretch fabrics and innovative laundries. As denim expert Leverton describes, “Italian washes are known as being more aggressive and extreme, an exaggerated version of true vintage that sets them apart from other countries� (Heddels, 2016). Both, the stretch fabrics and vintage aesthetic are relevant to Mih. In terms of sustainability, Italy can be considered to be on the forefront, as it follows strict EU and national legislations regarding the environment and ethics (Sourcing Journal, 2018). Naturally, this comes with an added cost. As a result of fast fashion and the emphasis on low prices, Italy has often been replaced by countries with lower labour costs, like Turkey and the Far East (WWD, 2013). In fact, the most up to date data from 2014 shows that the average labour cost in Turkey is $7.50 compared to $21 per hour in Italy (Werner International, 2014). All considered, Hines’ Ice Berg Theory may still be applied here, with similar nontransparent cost savings as previously discussed.
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Macro Environment and Competitors Considering Mih’s brand position and taking their manufacturing choices into account, a PESTLE analysis (fig. 3.1) can be completed, unfolding the brand’s macro environment. Analysing competitors, it may be suggested to consider Spain, another European country, as a manufacturing option. The Valencian mill Tejidos Royo is known for their sustainable practices and works with brands, such as Mud Jeans and Wrangler. In fact, it is the pioneer in Wrangler’s foam-dye process, which is reducing the water impact by 99% (The Current Daily, 2018). It further has expertise in utilising post-consumer waste (Mud Jeans, 2018), one of Mih’s 2019 sustainability goals.
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Political
Economic
As a British brand, Mih
Brexit may lead to import
According to EDITED (2018),
have to face the uncertain
and export duties, making
the denim market is showing
effects of Brexit (Business of
products too expensive for
growth again since 2017,
Fashion, 2017). A big point
stockists in the EU, losing
particularly in the luxury
of concern is their overall
a big part of the European
market. The global denim
competitiveness, as their
market (Business of Fashion,
market is anticipated to
supply chain and markets
2017).
experience a CAGR of 5.8%
are not limited to the UK.
between 2018-2023 and reach $79,211.0 million by
Fig. 3.1: PESTLE. Source: Author’s Own
2023 (P&S Market Research, British brands have begun to
The last quarter of 2018 has
stockpile raw materials due
shown a halt in consumer
to the threat of not putting
demand for fashion. As
a free trade agreement in
even strong performers have
place with the EU (Sourcing
revised their forecasts, it
Journal, 2018).
implies that 2019 could be challenging for the British fashion industry (Mintel, 2018).
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2018).
The currency crisis and inflation in Turkey, where cotton is sourced and production is done, may give Mih a competitive advantage due to a weaker Turkish Lira.
Social
Technical
currently
Consumers place a focus on
Levi’s are reducing lead-time
concerned with turning their
health and wellness, driving
by introducing automisation
homes into enjoyable and
the
processes for denim finishing
comfortable places to be in. As
fashion retail market (Mintel,
a result, many fashion brands
2018).
Millennials
are
sports
and
outdoor
have added homeware lines
G-Star Raw have introduced
to their standard offering (Mintel, 2019).
Transparency and sustainability are increasingly important, with 65% of
Increasingly more millennials are
demanding
timeless,
British adults stating that they are currently trying to live
high-quality products, with
more ethically than they were
78% of 25-34 years olds
a year ago (Mintel, 2018).
believing that it is worth it to
C2C Gold Certified jeans, known as ‘the most sustainable jeans ever’. The denim is made from 100% organic cotton and utilises eco-finished metal buttons as metal trims, replacing rivets and zippers. In collaboration with Dystar, Artistic Milliners,
spend more money on higher quality items (Mintel, 2018).
(Sourcing Journal, 2018).
Inclusivity is gaining importance, as many competitors, such as
Both Japanese and Italian
Reformation, Levi’s, and 7
denim hold an outstanding
for Mankind have introduced
reputation for their quality
plus-sizes due to consumer
and feel.
demand.
and Saitex, a clean indigo technology has been created (Fashion United, 2018)
Through the foam-dyeing process, Wrangler have managed to reduced water usage by 99% (The Current Daily, 2018).
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Legal
Environmental
The AAFA (American Apparel
Tejidos Royo: This
Recycled cotton is rated
and Footwear Association)
denim mill in Valencia,
as more environmentally-
have created new guidelines
Spain is known for their
friendly than organic cotton,
and best practices for denim
environmentally-friendly
as it consumes less water,
finishing facilities, focusing
practices, guaranteeing the
land, chemicals, and energy
on worker safety (Sourcing
use of sustainable cotton
and causes less greenhouse-
Journal, 2019).
and lyocell as well as pre/
gas emissions (Sourcing
post-consumer waste within
Journal, 2018). Nonetheless,
the circular economy (Tejidos
according to Dahlberg, only
Royo, 2018). The mill is
20% a maximum of 20%
furthermore pioneering
can currently be replaced
Wrangler’s foam-dye
with recycled cotton without
process, which is reducing
deteriorating the quality (see
the water impact by 99%
Sourcing Journal, 2018).
The Swedish Government is offering a tax cut when repairing items, such as clothing, encouraging the purchase of higher quality items and keeping things for
(The Current Daily, 2018).
a longer period of time (bbc, Re-Gen Denim: Italian mill
2017). A number of denim brands have introduced buy-back and recycle programs, including Reformation, Mud Jeans, and J. Crew.
Candiani has develop a fabric made of 50% Refibra, a sort of Tencel that is produced from cellulose and post-industrial cotton waste, and 50% pre-consumer recycled cotton, staying away from utilising raw cotton
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(Sourcing Journal, 2018)
Summary All things considered, both countries are pertinent manufacturing choices for Mih. While Turkey offers lower labour costs, Italy can compensate with high quality and expertise in stretch fabrics. Due to the respective location, both countries allow shorter lead times and ethical practices, particularly influenced by strict EU legislations. Furthermore, building a lasting relationship with one’s suppliers is essential for a mutual long-term benefit (Jackson & Shaw, 2000), which suggests that changing manufacturers might not be advisable. In Mih’s case, the manufacturers are already aiming for sustainable practices, making it more reasonable to continue the working relationship and develop more sustainable products together. The same applies when sourcing cotton, as Turkey offers both GOTS and BCI certified cotton. From the PESTLE and looking at competitors, it may be suggested to consider Spain as another manufacturing option.
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Range Proposal PAGE | 27
Chapter 4
Creative Influences. Analysing Mih’s old blog, it becomes evident that past collections have taken Jeans, 2018). For the Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, it is proposed to take inspiration from the Netherlands. The Dutch capital Amsterdam is globally known as the ‘Denim capital of the world’ (Fashion United, 2017). Not only does the city have the highest number of jeans companies per square kilometre in the world, it is also home to important denim trade shows, is a sustainability hub, and provides inspirational and suitable street style inspiration due to the country’s down-toearth mentality. As all of these elements are particularly pertinent for Mih’s brand
x x x
inspiration from artists, various personalities, and visiting intriguing sites (Mih
values, including their sustainability goals.
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Best Practices: Circular Economy & C2C Using Mih’s 2019 sustainability goals as a framework, it has been decided to identify best practices in, but not limited to, the Dutch market. A design philosophy that is considered to span over various sustainable practices is the Cradle to Cradle (hereafter: C2C) philosophy. According to C2C, waste is a design flaw. The philosophy views design as the basis of a fully recyclable product and mimics the reproductive system found in nature (Braungart & McDonough, 2009). Fashion for Good, an initiative, based in Amsterdam, and aiming to increase sustainability in the fashion industry, has developed a toolkit to develop C2C certified products, including denim (Fashion United, 2018). The toolkit proposes 91 different C2C assessed components essential to produce denim. Three Dutch brands that have applied the C2C principle are Mud Jeans, C&A, and G-Star Raw (fig. 4.1). Applications include utilising stainless-steel metal trims that can be recycled and do not require any finishing, swapping zippers for buttons, as these can be readily recycled and reused, printing into the waistband instead of utilising leather labels, and including post-consumer waste into the production of new denim.
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Fig. 4.1: G-Star Raw C2C Gold Certified Jeans. Source: Fashion United (2017)
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Product Design and Rationale.
Inspired by the Netherlands and its capital, a sample range of 8 products has been developed, keeping the target customer in mind (fig. 4.2). As stated by Richard Tobin, VP of Sales and Marketing at Kaltex, a trend towards more voluminous shapes can be observed, inspired by retro styles (see Appendix C). This is particularly suitable for Mih with a timeless ‘70s meet modern’ approach. Regarding washes, Tobin has been noticing a shift to minimalism with less yarn character and cleaner looking fabrics, pertinent for core items. Taking inspiration from the Netherlands, the main themes are: Two toned items, printed denim, upcycled looks, and pin stripes. According to Dio Kurazawa, former head of denim at WGSN and currently head of sustainability, “Denim Outerwear is really amazing these days. From quilted looks by Dsquared and Hardeman to upcycled looks from Ksenia Schnaider, jackets or outerwear has really taken off. Skirts get a place here too.” (see Appendix D). This has thus influenced the decision to focus on outerwear and skirts within the further denim category, along with quilted styles. As fashion items have proven to give Mih a competitive advantage, more items shall be added to the core mix. Although the brand is known for their timeless offering, including more trend-influenced items is still advisable, as according to Kurazawa, “trends are often short lived, but have often the ability to become timeless if they truly create a demand in the market for something functional, performance based and inspirational” (see Appendix D). Lastly, sustainability aspects have been taking into consideration, inspired by the C2C philosophy, to achieve the 2019 goals.
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PAGE Fig.|4.2: 32 Customer Profile. Source: Author’s Own (2019)
32 | PAGE
Assortment Plan Prinsengracht Flare The Prinsengracht Flare is, among other things, inspired by the symmetrical twotoned canal houses throughout the Netherlands. It serves as an update of Mih’s bestselling Marrakesh jean.
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Catharijne Skirt An upcycled patchwork mini skirt. Both post-consumer
and
pre-consumer
waste can be utilised, increasing overall sustainability.
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Klokgebouw Jacket A quilted denim jacket with statement pockets. Inspiration is taken from quilted chairs at the Dutch design week, and Sophie Hardeman’s Jeans Couture.
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Stedelijk Jacket A kimono-style denim jacket with contrasting patch pockets and patches on the right chest. Inspired by styles seen at Kingpins Amsterdam, Kings of Indigo, and Scotch & Soda.
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Amstel Jeans Straight leg jeans with an open fly, front and back seams, and statement pockets. Inspired by Dutch blogger Diana Leeflang.
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Tolsteeg Jeans A straight-leg style with white pinstripes, as seen throughout various denim shows, brands, and street styles.
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Marijke Skirt An indigo denim skirt with an all-over print, featuring Mih’s logo. Printed denim has been observed throughout all trade shows and brands.
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Delft Jeans A voluminous, wide-legged jeans style with prints on the sides, inspired by 70s flowers adapted into the famous Delfts Blauw style of traditional pottery.
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Style Name
Amstel Jeans
Customer
Mih Jeans
Style Number
#AmJ01
Mill
Puglia, Italy
Range
Jeans
Season
AW19
Size Range
24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34
Swatches
open fly
contrasting back pockets, made from post-consumer waste, backtacked
straight finished hem
front and back seam detailing
Components
4 branded buttons
Fibre Composition
100% organic cotton
Weight
11 oz.
Wash
dark indigo ozone wash
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Finish
light faser fading on knees, whiskers for slight worn-in look
Labels
brand, size, and care label printed into waistband, Mih tag made from recycled paper
Style Name
Tolsteeg Jeans
Customer
Mih Jeans
Style Number
#TsJ05
Mill
Puglia, Italy
Range
Jeans
Season
AW19
Size Range
24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34
Swatches high rise
6 belt loops
hidden fly
2 back pockets
straight finished hem
Components
4 branded buttons
Fibre Composition
100% organic cotton
Weight
10.5 oz.
Wash
ozone wash, printed stripes
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Finish
-
Labels
brand, size, and care label printed into waistband, Mih tag made from recycled paper 42 | PAGE
Style Name
Catharijne Skirt
Customer
Mih Jeans
Style Number
#CaSk07
Mill
Isko, Turkey
Range
Dresses & Skirts
Season
AW19
Size Range
24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34
Swatches
seam detailing all over
frayed hem
Components
6 branded buttons, 4 rivets
Fibre Composition
upcycled post-consumer waste
Weight
10 oz.
Wash
ozone wash
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Finish
-
Labels
brand, size, and care label printed into waistband, Mih tag made from recycled paper
Style Name
Klokgebouw Jacket
Customer
Mih Jeans
Style Number
#KlJa08
Mill
Isko, Turkey
Range
Jackets & Coats
Season
AW19
Size Range
XS, S, M, L
Swatches
hidden fly
quilted fabric contrasting pockets
Components
8 branded buttons
Fibre Composition
100% organic cotton
Weight
10.5 oz.
Wash
dark indigo ozone wash
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Finish
-
Labels
brand, size, and care label printed into back neck, Mih tag made from recycled paper 44 | PAGE
Sizing Following the SWOT of Mih’s performance, it has been decided that the weakness of limited sizes should be addressed. Accordingly, it is proposed to extend the number of sizes from 9 to 12, introducing 3 plus sizes for this season. This is to react to the demand for more exclusivity in the market. Apart from being a reasonable point of marketing, more sizes may be considered for future collections. In addition, online exclusives of petite and tall models for flared styles shall be offered, as these are the signature jeans of Mih and thus, a pertinent product to trial the market of inclusive sizes.
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Conclusion. To summarise, the proposed Autumn/ Winter
2019
collection
for
Mih
is
considering lessons learned of the previous season and explores the opportunities of increasing denim products, other than jeans, introducing more sizes, and offering online exclusives of tall and petite styles. All of this is achieved whilst taking sustainability into account. Design inspiration is mainly taken from Amsterdam, the denim capital of the world.
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Illustrations • Cover: Background: MiH (2018): MiH Golborne Road Polaroids. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans. com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page i: Background: MiH (2018): Chekkie. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/about. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page 1: Background: Mih Jeans with Patches. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.elle.com/fashion/shopping/ news/a40405/mih-customizable-jeans-denim-girls-project/. Viewed: 17th January 2019. • Fig. 1.1: Author’s Own (2018): The Buying Cycle. • Page 3 & 4: Background: MiH (2018): MiH Golborne Road Polaroids. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page 5: Background: Mih (2018): Mih AW18 photoshoot. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/ autumn-winter-2018. Viewed: 17th January 2018. • Fig. 2.1: Mih Jeans (2018): Lou Jeans with Frills. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/womensjeans/flares/lou-jean-farina.html. Viewed: 17th January 2019. • Page 7 & 8: Background: MiH (2018): MiH Golborne Road Collage. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Fig. 2.2: Author’s Own (2018): SWOT • Page 10: Background: MiH (2017): MiH Golborne Road. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/ golborne-road/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page 11: Background: MiH (2018): MiH Golborne Road Polaroid. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans. com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page 13: Background: Mih (2018): Paradise Capsule. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/ paradise/. Viewed: 17th January 2019. PAGE | 47
• Page 14: Decoration: Author’s Own (2017): Cotton Illustration. • Page 15 & 16: Background: Mih (2018): Mih Golborne Road Collage. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Fig. 3.1: Author’s Own (2019): Mih Manufacturing Countries. • Page 17 & 18: Background: Mih (2018): Mih Golborne Road Collage. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Fig. 3.2: Jackson and Shaw (2000): Iceberg Theory. Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management, Palgrave Macmillan, Basingstoke. • Page 19 & 20: Background: MiH (2017): Marrakesh 1971. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/ marrakesh-1971/. Viewed: 19th January 2019. • Page 21: Background: Mih (2017): Cult Jeans Project. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/cultjean-project/. Viewed: 19th January 2019. • Fig 3.1: Author’s Own (2019): PESTLE. • Page 23 – 26: Background: Mih (2018): Mih Golborne Road Collage. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. • Page 27: Background: Mih (2017): Cult Jeans Project. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/cultjean-project/. Viewed: 19th January 2019. • Page 28: Background: Mih (2017): Cult Jeans Project. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/cultjean-project/. Viewed: 19th January 2019. • Page 29: Background: Mih (2018): Mih AW18 photoshoot. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mih-jeans.com/ autumn-winter-2018. Viewed: 17th January 2019. • Fig. 4.1: Fashion United (2017): G-Star Raw C2C Gold Certified Jeans. Available from: https://fashionunited.uk/news/ fashion/g-star-raw-unveils-most-sustainable-jeans-ever/2017120427106. Viewed: 17th January 2019. • Fig. 4.2: Author’s Own (2019): Customer Board. • Page 33 – 38: Decoration: Author’s Own (2018): Dutch Canal Houses. Original taken from: www.elles.nl. • Page 33 – 38: Illustrations: Author’s Own (2019): edited and adapted from WGSN. • Page 41 – 44: Author’s Own (2019): Spec Packs. • Page 47 & 48: Background: MiH (2018): MiH Golborne Road Polaroid. [digital image]. Available from: https://www.mihjeans.com/golborne-road-2018/. Viewed: 8th November 2018. PAGE | 48
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References bbc, 2017. Can Sweden tackle the throwaway society?. [Online] . Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/ business-37419042. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Better Cotton Initiative, 2018. Turkey. [Online]. Available at: https://bettercotton.org/about-better-cotton/where-is-bettercotton-grown/turkey/. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. Better Cotton Initiative, 2018. Where is Better Cotton Grown?. [Online]. Available at: https://bettercotton.org/about-bettercotton/where-is-better-cotton-grown/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Braungart, M. & McDonough, W., 2009. Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux. Business of Fashion, 2017. British Fashion Industry Steels Itself for Brexit. [Online]. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/british-fashion-industry-steels-itself-for-brexit. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Drapers, 2014. A day in the life of Jessica Lawrence. [Online]. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/businessoperations/a-day-in-the-life-of-jessica-lawrence/5067424.article. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Drapers, 2018. [Online]. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/denim-giant-iskos-quest-forgreener-jeans/7030902.article [Accessed 29 December 2018]. EDITED, 2018. The EDITED Denim Report: market & product trends, London: EDITED. Euromonitor International, 2018. Spotlight on Jeans: Denim Bounces Back. [Online]. Available at: https://blog. euromonitor.com/spotlight-jeans-denim-bounces-back/. [Accessed 31 October 2018]. European Commission, 2018. Cotton. [Online]. Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/cotton_en. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Fashion United, 2017. Denim Capital Amsterdam: This is where all the big brands are. [Online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/retail/denim-capital-amsterdam-this-is-where-all-the-big-brandsPAGE | 49
are/2017100426131. [Accessed 12 January 2019]. Fashion United, 2018. Fashion for Good launches toolkit on how to develop Cradle to Cradle denim. [Online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/fashion-for-good-launches-toolkit-on-how-to-develop-cradle-tocradle-denim/2018081638366. [Accessed 12 January 2019]. Fashion United, 2018. G-Star Raw unveils ‘Most Sustainable Jeans Ever’. [Online]. Available at: https://fashionunited.com/ news/fashion/g-star-raw-unveils-most-sustainable-jeans-ever/2017120418606. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Financial Times, 2018. Turkey’s inflation rate surges to almost 25%. [Online]. Available at: https://www.ft.com/ content/22c4f276-c6db-11e8-ba8f-ee390057b8c9. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. GOTS, 2019. Public Database. [Online]. Available at: https://www.global-standard.org/public-database/search/database/ search_results.html. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Goworek, H., 2007. Fashion Buying. 2nd ed. Oxford: Blackwell. Heddels, 2016. Italians Do It Better? – White Oak Economy. [Online]. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/2016/12/ italians-better-white-oak-economy/. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Heddels, 2018. Genova. [Online]. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/dictionary/genova/ [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Hines, T., 2002. Developing an Iceberg Theory of Cost Comparisons in Relation to Sourcing Decisions by UK Fashion Retailers, Manchester: Journal of the Textile Institute. Innovation Textiles, 2018. Turkey’s share in world’s denim fabrics exports is 9%. [Online] Available at: https://www.innovationintextiles.com/turkeys-share-in-worlds-denim-fabrics-exports-is-9/ [Accessed 31 December 2018]. Jackson, T. & Shaw, D., 2000. Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. just style, 2018. Is US and Turkey cotton trade set to unravel?. [Online]. Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/isus-and-turkey-cotton-trade-set-to-unravel_id134456.aspx. [Accessed 31 December 2018] just style, 2018. Knowing your supply chain is the first step to sustainability. [Online] Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/knowing-your-supply-chain-is-the-first-step-to-sustainability_id133634. aspx. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. just style, 2018. Wrangler first to adopt dry-dyed indigo denim. [Online]. Available at: https://www.just-style.com/news/ wrangler-first-to-adopt-dry-dyed-indigo-denim_id134512.aspx. [Accessed 31 October 2018].
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Marsh, G. & Trynka, P., 2002. Denim : From Cowboys to Catwalks - A Visual History of the World’s Most Legendary Fabric. London: Aurum Press Limited. Meyanci, L., 2018. Definition, history of denim fabric and Turkey’s denim clothing export in figures, Bucharest: Industria Textila. Mih Jeans, 2018. M.i.h Originals. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/originals. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Mih. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/article/tag/MiH/. [Accessed 20 December 2018]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Paradise. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/paradise. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Sustainability Manifesto. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/sustainability-manifesto [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Mintel, 2018. Clothing Retailing, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2018. Fashion’s discounting challenge, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2018. Sports & Outdoor Fashion - UK, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2018. WOMENSWEAR, UK, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2019. CONSUMER TRENDS, ATTITUDES AND SPENDING HABITS FOR THE HOME, London: Mintel. Mud Jeans, 2018. Tejidos Royo. [Online]. Available at: https://mudjeans.eu/sustainable-jeans-about-us-our-factoriestejidos-royo/. [Accessed 13 January 2019]. P&S Market Research, 2018. Denim Market, New York: P&S Market Research. Salary Expert, 2018. Factory Worker Salary in Istanbul, Turkey. [Online]. Available at: https://www.salaryexpert.com/salary/ job/factory-worker/turkey/istanbul. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. Levi’s Proves Automation in Denim Manufacturing Could Substantially Speed Up Supply Chains. [Online]. Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/levis-laser-automation-denim-124738/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. M.i.h. Launches New Sustainable Denim Initiatives. [Online]. Available at: https://sourcingjournal. com/denim/denim-brands/mih-sustainable-denim-initiatives-107847/. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. Passport to Denim: A Snapshot of the Global Denim Market. [Online]. Available at: https:// sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-mills/global-denim-market-105089/. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. PAGE | 51
Sourcing Journal, 2018. The Future of Recycled Cotton Denim Leans on Innovation. [Online]. Available at: https:// sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/recycled-cotton-denim-innovation-109974/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. UK Fashion Brands Are Stockpiling Raw Materials Ahead of Next Trade Threat. [Online] . Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/trade/no-deal-brexit-uk-stockpiles-129263/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2019. The AAFA’s New Guidelines for Denim Finishing Puts the Worker First. [Online] . Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-business/aafa-resource-denim-finishing-134724/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Styles, R., 2014. Ecologist Guide to Fashion. London: Leaping Hare Press. Tejidos Royo, 2018. OUR COMPANY IN 2 MINUTES. TEJIDOS ROYO: “YOUR ECO-INNOVATION PARTNER”. [Online] . Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=66&v=1V45R8boKwc [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Textile Exchange, 2018. QUICK GUIDE TO ORGANIC COTTON. [Online]. Available at: https://textileexchange.org/quickguide-to-organic-cotton/. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. The Current Daily, 2018. Wrangler is erasing 99% of water from denim dyeing with new foam process. [Online]. Available at: https://thecurrentdaily.com/2018/09/28/wrangler-is-erasing-99-of-water-from-denim-dyeing-with-new-foam-process/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. The New York Times, 2018. A Weakening Currency Could Mean Strength For Turkish Exporters. [Online] . Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/09/business/international/silver-lining-in-turkeys-falling-lira.html. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. Werner International, 2014. Labour Costs in Comparison. [Online]. Available at: https://shenglufashion.files.wordpress. com/2015/01/textileindustry_laborcost2014_bars-437br.jpg. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. WWD, 2013. Denim In Depth: Young Turks Take on Maturing Italians. Fairchild Fashion Media, Vol. 205(Iss. 79), p. DD8.
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Bibliography Books Braungart, M. & McDonough, W., 2009. Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux. Goworek, H., 2007. Fashion Buying. 2nd ed. Oxford: Blackwell. Jackson, T. & Shaw, D., 2000. Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. Marsh, G. & Trynka, P., 2002. Denim : From Cowboys to Catwalks - A Visual History of the World’s Most Legendary Fabric. London: Aurum Press Limited. Styles, R., 2014. Ecologist Guide to Fashion. London: Leaping Hare Press.
Reports EDITED, 2018. The EDITED Denim Report: market & product trends, London: EDITED. Hines, T., 2002. Developing an Iceberg Theory of Cost Comparisons in Relation to Sourcing Decisions by UK Fashion Retailers, Manchester: Journal of the Textile Institute. Meyanci, L., 2018. Definition, history of denim fabric and Turkey’s denim clothing export in figures, Bucharest: Industria Textila. Mintel, 2018. Clothing Retailing, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2018. Fashion’s discounting challenge, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2018. Sports & Outdoor Fashion - UK, London: Mintel. PAGE | 53
Mintel, 2018. WOMENSWEAR, UK, London: Mintel. Mintel, 2019. CONSUMER TRENDS, ATTITUDES AND SPENDING HABITS FOR THE HOME, London: Mintel. P&S Market Research, 2018. Denim Market, New York: P&S Market Research.
Electronic Resources WWD, 2013. Denim In Depth: Young Turks Take on Maturing Italians. Fairchild Fashion Media, Vol. 205(Iss. 79), p. DD8.
Articles from Websites bbc, 2017. Can Sweden tackle the throwaway society?. [Online] . Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/ business-37419042. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Better Cotton Initiative, 2018. Turkey. [Online]. Available at: https://bettercotton.org/about-better-cotton/where-is-bettercotton-grown/turkey/. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. Better Cotton Initiative, 2018. Where is Better Cotton Grown?. [Online]. Available at: https://bettercotton.org/about-bettercotton/where-is-better-cotton-grown/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Business of Fashion, 2017. British Fashion Industry Steels Itself for Brexit. [Online]. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/british-fashion-industry-steels-itself-for-brexit. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Drapers, 2014. A day in the life of Jessica Lawrence. [Online]. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/businessoperations/a-day-in-the-life-of-jessica-lawrence/5067424.article. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Drapers, 2018. [Online]. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/business-operations/denim-giant-iskos-quest-forgreener-jeans/7030902.article [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Euromonitor International, 2018. Spotlight on Jeans: Denim Bounces Back. [Online]. Available at: https://blog. euromonitor.com/spotlight-jeans-denim-bounces-back/. [Accessed 31 October 2018]. European Commission, 2018. Cotton. [Online]. Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/cotton_en. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Fashion United, 2017. Denim Capital Amsterdam: This is where all the big brands are. [Online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/retail/denim-capital-amsterdam-this-is-where-all-the-big-brandsare/2017100426131. [Accessed 12 January 2019]. PAGE | 54
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Fashion United, 2018. Fashion for Good launches toolkit on how to develop Cradle to Cradle denim. [Online]. Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/fashion-for-good-launches-toolkit-on-how-to-develop-cradle-to-cradledenim/2018081638366. [Accessed 12 January 2019]. Fashion United, 2018. G-Star Raw unveils ‘Most Sustainable Jeans Ever’. [Online]. Available at: https://fashionunited.com/ news/fashion/g-star-raw-unveils-most-sustainable-jeans-ever/2017120418606. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Financial Times, 2018. Turkey’s inflation rate surges to almost 25%. [Online]. Available at: https://www.ft.com/ content/22c4f276-c6db-11e8-ba8f-ee390057b8c9. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. GOTS, 2019. Public Database. [Online]. Available at: https://www.global-standard.org/public-database/search/database/ search_results.html. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Heddels, 2016. Italians Do It Better? – White Oak Economy. [Online]. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/2016/12/ italians-better-white-oak-economy/. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Heddels, 2018. Genova. [Online]. Available at: https://www.heddels.com/dictionary/genova/ [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Innovation Textiles, 2018. Turkey’s share in world’s denim fabrics exports is 9%. [Online] Available at: https://www.innovationintextiles.com/turkeys-share-in-worlds-denim-fabrics-exports-is-9/ [Accessed 31 December 2018]. just style, 2018. Is US and Turkey cotton trade set to unravel?. [Online]. Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/isus-and-turkey-cotton-trade-set-to-unravel_id134456.aspx. [Accessed 31 December 2018] just style, 2018. Knowing your supply chain is the first step to sustainability. [Online] Available at: https://www.just-style.com/analysis/knowing-your-supply-chain-is-the-first-step-to-sustainability_id133634. aspx. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. just style, 2018. Wrangler first to adopt dry-dyed indigo denim. [Online]. Available at: https://www.just-style.com/news/ wrangler-first-to-adopt-dry-dyed-indigo-denim_id134512.aspx. [Accessed 31 October 2018]. Mih Jeans, 2018. M.i.h Originals. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/originals. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Mih. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/article/tag/MiH/. [Accessed 20 December 2018]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Paradise. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/paradise. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Mih Jeans, 2018. Sustainability Manifesto. [Online]. Available at: https://www.mih-jeans.com/sustainability-manifesto. [Accessed 29 December 2018].
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Mud Jeans, 2018. Tejidos Royo. [Online]. Available at: https://mudjeans.eu/sustainable-jeans-about-us-our-factoriestejidos-royo/. [Accessed 13 January 2019]. Salary Expert, 2018. Factory Worker Salary in Istanbul, Turkey. [Online]. Available at: https://www.salaryexpert.com/salary/ job/factory-worker/turkey/istanbul. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. Levi’s Proves Automation in Denim Manufacturing Could Substantially Speed Up Supply Chains. [Online]. Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/levis-laser-automation-denim-124738/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. M.i.h. Launches New Sustainable Denim Initiatives. [Online]. Available at: https://sourcingjournal. com/denim/denim-brands/mih-sustainable-denim-initiatives-107847/. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. Passport to Denim: A Snapshot of the Global Denim Market. [Online]. Available at: https:// sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-mills/global-denim-market-105089/. [Accessed 1 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. The Future of Recycled Cotton Denim Leans on Innovation. [Online]. Available at: https:// sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/recycled-cotton-denim-innovation-109974/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2018. UK Fashion Brands Are Stockpiling Raw Materials Ahead of Next Trade Threat. [Online] . Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/trade/no-deal-brexit-uk-stockpiles-129263/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Sourcing Journal, 2019. The AAFA’s New Guidelines for Denim Finishing Puts the Worker First. [Online] . Available at: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-business/aafa-resource-denim-finishing-134724/. [Accessed 11 January 2019]. Tejidos Royo, 2018. OUR COMPANY IN 2 MINUTES. TEJIDOS ROYO: “YOUR ECO-INNOVATION PARTNER”. [Online] . Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=66&v=1V45R8boKwc [Accessed 2 January 2019]. Textile Exchange, 2018. QUICK GUIDE TO ORGANIC COTTON. [Online]. Available at: https://textileexchange.org/quickguide-to-organic-cotton/. [Accessed 29 December 2018]. The Current Daily, 2018. Wrangler is erasing 99% of water from denim dyeing with new foam process. [Online]. Available at: https://thecurrentdaily.com/2018/09/28/wrangler-is-erasing-99-of-water-from-denim-dyeing-with-new-foam-process/. [Accessed 2 January 2019]. The New York Times, 2018. A Weakening Currency Could Mean Strength For Turkish Exporters. [Online] . Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/09/business/international/silver-lining-in-turkeys-falling-lira.html. [Accessed 31 December 2018]. Werner International, 2014. Labour Costs in Comparison. [Online]. Available at: https://shenglufashion.files.wordpress. com/2015/01/textileindustry_laborcost2014_bars-437br.jpg. [Accessed 1 January 2019].
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List of Appendices Appendix A: Mih Jeans Category Analysis
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Appendix B: Interview with Laura Gilbert
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Appendix C: Interview with Richard Tobin
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Appendix D: Interview with Dio Kurazawa
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Appendix A - Mih Jeans Category Analysis
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Appendix B - Interview with Laura Gilbert About the Interviewee Laura Gilbert was the head of Merchanding at Mih Jeans before the company was went into administration in November 2018. The Interview was done via LinkedIn in January 2019.
JT: What were the best and worst performing styles and washes of this season? LG: I can’t answer, as I don’t know current sales performance, sorry. Straight legs were trending when I was working at Mih, as were the more fashion forward washes as this was where the brand had a competitive edge over the more classic premium brands. Flares always worked for Mih, as this is they shape they were known for. JT: How popular has the customisation option been and where are the products customised? LG: This was quite successful, and the product was customized by some collaborators at their studios I believe. JT: How well did the online exclusive styles perform? LG: Exclusives were mixed. It was quite a new area for the brand so we were in trial phase and still testing the waters.. it depends on the product and how appealing/ brand-authentic it is. It isn’t good enough to just have an exclusive style anymore, it needs to have a message and a ‘reason to be’ in order to be successful. Exclusives are definitely a good idea if you have the right information to design and create them. JT: Do many customers send their old pairs of jeans back to you? LG: This was a very new concept when I left so I’m not sure, but I think a few people did.
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Appendix C - Interview with Richard Tobin About the Interviewee Richard Tobin has worked in the textile industry for nearly 30 years, with special expertise in denim. He has extensive knowledge in product development and merchandising and has a special interest in sustainability. Currently, he holds the tilte of VP of sales and marketing at Kaltex. A phone interview was done in January 2019. The following is an extract that is referred to in the report.
(...) JT: Could I ask you for a prediction what will be on trend for the next Fall/Winter season? RT: I’m seeing more volume where as we were more contoured shapes. So bell bottoms, larger openings on legs, the whole retro stuff. JT: What about washes, have you noticed any patterns? RT: Regarding washes, a lot of minimalistic type washes, cleaner fabrics, not as much yarn character. All in all, less is more. But there is also more embellishment, more sequencing and foiling. When you observe instagram and pinterest, you can pick up many micro trends so you can see in what direction it is going. It is interesting to see what trends come and stay. (...)
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Appendix D - Interview with Dio Kurazawa About the Interviewee Dio Kurazawa is a fashion and denim expert. He was the head of denim at WGSN and is now holding the title of head of sustainability. The Interview was done via LinkedIn in December 2018.
JT: According to you, how does a pair of sustainable jeans look like? DK: All clothing that is made in a responsible way must always look amazing and indistinguishable from traditionally made. It’s possible! JT: Do timeless products have a place within a trend-driven industry? Within the context of sustainability, how can brand combine timelessness and trends? DK: There are two issues here. Trends are often short lived, but have often the ability to become timeless if they truly create a demand in the market for something functional, performance based and inspirational. Again, there should be no reason to distinguish responsible clothing from traditionally made. JT: Apart from jeans, what do you believe to be important products within the denim category? DK: Denim Outerwear is really amazing these days. From quilted looks by Dsquared and Hardeman to upcycled looks from Ksenia Schnaider, jackets or outerwear has really taken off. (Skirts get a place here too) JT:How would you describe the future of sustainable denim? DK: No laundry needed, no cut and sew needed! All done through innovative pre treated fabrics and 3D weaving!
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