pureJersey 2015
Wildlife watching
Wet ’n’ wild watersports
with Mike Dilger
with Karen Bowerman
War and liberation
Beach café bonanza
with Colonel John Blashford-Snell
with Roger Thomas
Plus… Green Jersey, luxury Jersey, family Jersey, foodie Jersey, festival Jersey
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ersey is different. If ever we needed reminding of that fact then put 9 May 2015 in your diary. The Channel Islands were the only part of the British Isles to be invaded during World War Two. The date, marking the 70th anniversary of Jersey’s Liberation from occupying forces, will be the centrepiece of a festival that celebrates Jersey’s identity and island spirit. That’s the key to it all: ‘island spirit’. Geographically, Jersey is nearer France than the UK. So it’s inevitable that continental influences have rubbed off. It’s a defining feature in explaining what makes Jersey different. The island is a mix of English reserve and French savoirfaire, buzzy, cosmopolitan harbours and timeless hidden valleys, continental flair and scenes that are reassuringly familiar to UK visitors. It’s cream teas and croissants, Breton-beating seafood and traditional beach cafés, British pounds and French placenames. We strive to reflect all of this in pureJersey. It’s a proper magazine, not a holiday brochure, with a wide range of contributors – everyone from Mike Dilger, The One Show’s favourite wildlife presenter, to a real family writing about their real experiences. We think it’s a refreshing, honest approach. Hope you enjoy the read.
Roger Thomas Editor: pureJersey
Front cover: Elizabeth Castle, St Helier Map illustration: Oli Nightingale
FAMILY SAFARI The Carroll family – Nathan, Naomi, Freya (aged 10) and Loki (aged three) – packed a lot into their short break in Jersey. And met lots of animals along the way. Here’s Naomi’s daily diary
DAY ONE t drive from the We arrive at Hamptonne after a shor ptonne is a museum airport. What a lovely surprise! Ham of authentically of rural life consisting of a collection better, for you can preserved old buildings. It gets even dation set within actually stay here, in holiday accommo y set-up since we the historic farm complex. It’s a quirk le building. But accessed our apartment through a stab n is no museum unlike its setting, the accommodatio ted by modern piece. Open the door and you’re gree a place with bags finishes and comforts, yet still have beams and pretty of character, low (thankfully padded) picture windows. ne Jersey and Hamptonne is a snapshot of a bygo century. 15th the to back g datin its rural history Goodwy f the by life to ght brou too, It’s living history contains lots and her household. The museum also hit with the of farm animals, which were a great der freely wan ks chic their and children. Chickens esting talk from around the paths, and we had an inter how to make the Goodwy f’s male counterpart on
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ial to return soap, medieval-style. It felt extra spec the place to have and out day a r to Hamptonne afte ings without ourselves, seeing the animals and build anyone else around. children into their After the excitement of settling two ore. Food was new surroundings we went off to expl rmarket with supe ll sma a d foun we first on the agenda; e local produce, everything we needed, including som – YUM! fresh strawberries and Jersey cream away in the At Hamptonne you feel you’re tucked s and woods. field in d lope enve try, heart of the coun just a few minutes Yet once stocked up here we were, St Aubin’s Bay. later, strolling along the seafront at unt of people amo the was e eabl Immediately notic r blades. We cycling, running or whizzing by on rolle view from huge the iring adm d, stare just stopped and end of the bay St Helier and Elizabeth Castle at one of St Aubin our harb d -fille boat to the picturesque at the other.
Meeting the locals
Both children were really looking forward to our visit to Durrell Wildlife Park. It didn’t fail to impress. An Andean bear lazily lounging high on a tree branch as we entered the park made for a special welcome. The range of animals was huge, from tiny little tree frogs to imposing gorillas. The reptile house was a winner; Loki was intrigued by the ‘dinosaurs’ (iguanas actually). We couldn’t believe how well the displays held his attention. As anyone with a three-year-old will know this can be a challenge. There were activity cards, interactive displays, lots of video information and posters all around the park, making it easy and inviting for children to access information. And the entire place was immaculately kept with a feel of real quality unlike many of your average ‘zoos’. Dips, cubby holes and hidden corners in the park’s layout kept you guessing as to what might come next. The definite star of the show was Indigo the baby gorilla. We were lucky to catch feeding time for her and her family. One last thing not to be missed is the Durrell exhibition, a treasure trove of insight and information into the man himself, Gerald Durrell, who founded the park.
The Carroll family in the green heart of Jersey
Freya by this point said she couldn’t walk any further but after a short rest in the car (short being the operative word as nothing is far in Jersey) we arrived at Mont Orgueil Castle. I needn’t have worried, for once we started to climb the stairs of this inspiring fortress the castle captured her imagination. She was off asking the volunteer custodians questions with Loki trying to keep up, which he did very well all the way to the top. The ‘dressing-up’ area was huge fun, Freya and Loki donning their princess and knight’s costumes respectively to continue their exploration. The place had a lovely atmosphere, with staff in costume playing music and demonstrating crafts, and a wealth of things to look at all the way around. I especially enjoyed seeing the work of Chris Levine – The Queen. These were holographic portraits of the Queen commissioned as part of the Jersey 1204 to 2004 celebrations. And those hundreds of steps were all worth it for the panoramic view from the top of the castle across the waves to France. Indigo, Durrell’s baby gorilla
book online at www.jersey.com
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in Jersey; the rain I guess the sun doesn’t always shine managed to find hasn’t stopped all day! Fear not, we was hiding. quite a few things to do when the sun in St Helier, a First stop was the Maritime Museum to the brim with fun and fascinating place that’s full and activities. os vide els, mod interactive displays, s it engages It has won awards for the clever way all were We us. ding inclu , children of all ages lays, disp the feel and ll sme h, encouraged to touc the on rs sailo ing play and greatly enjoyed reproduction ship.
we decided to As the rain was still clattering down It’s amazing how t. coas hern nort investigate Jersey’s here in just a couple lly atica dram so the scenery changes ed coast were in of miles. The wild cliff edges and rugg h. We fell upon stark contrast to the sandy, busier sout de Lecq, which e Grèv in Lecq de lin a pub called Le Mou to the 12th had parts from a watermill dating back and friendly g omin welc very century. The staff were ialist dishes spec e som with ’ grub and the ‘proper pub Definitely worth thrown in were just what we needed. even managed to driving out to. And to cap it all off we that evening. squeeze in a game of 10-pin bowling
DAY THREE Maritime Museum
Jersey’s rugged north coast
aMaizin! Adventure Park
DAY FOUR
Up and off to aMaizin! Adventure Park today, one of Jersey’s most popular family attractions. And the weather is kinder. It’s a great place for the kids to let off steam. Even we grown-ups joined in with the go-karts and bouncy pillow (a kind of bouncy castle on steroids). The clue to the main attraction here is in the name: aMaizin’s famous maze made out of, well… maize. We opted for the long version, but unless you are better at mazes than us head for the shorter option instead. Yes, we did get lost. Frequently. We then checked out some beaches on the south and west of the island, starting with St Brelade’s, a sheltered bay of lovely fine sand with a safe, gentle beach for bathing and paddling. St Ouen’s, in the west,
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is very different. Much more open to the elements, this long bay is the most popular surfing spot in surfing-mad Jersey. It’s not as child-friendly as St Brelade’s, but it does have several lifeguard-flagged sections for bathing, and the sea, even on this exposed beach, is noticeably warmer than on mainland UK. Well, what a fabulous few days. We were thoroughly impressed by this tiny island, so well kept and hospitable. And so close to home.
More aMaizin! fun
ing The first thing we noticed on driv was out of the airport in our hire car the speed of the drivers. Or rather, limits lack of it. Twenty miles per hour main on are common, it’s 30 or 40mph es Lan roads and in the narrow Green it’s 15MPH! ble to Even main roads here are compara d. nlan mai rural back lanes on the British
d It took me a little while to get use s tion junc with , map the to the scale of s mile be ld wou y the that looked like us. away suddenly appearing before ier, eas is e pac ing driv That said, the something that’s much appreciated when you’re cycling or walking. us Drivers are tremendously courteo s tion junc at ily read and give way to let you out whenever needed.
NATHAN GOES SLOW
St Brelade’s Bay on the sandy south coast
FRFAEYA'S VOURITES My favourite day was at Durrell Wildlife Park. I enjoyed the gorillas most because they were funny and understood what the keepers were saying to them. The baby gorilla, Indigo, loved playing in the bushes and climbing up trees.
We also went to Mont Orgueil Castle where you could dress up as knights and princesses and run around in costumes. We went to the top of the castle where you could see right the way to France. At the bottom of the castle they had stocks and pillories where we had fun locking Dad in the stocks. aMaizin! was amazing! The best thing was the toboggans. You rushed down the hill either on rubber rings or a small ‘Swiss bob sledge’. The sledge is the best choice if you like speed. The maze was cool, but massive. I also loved the giant jumping pillow.
We stayed in Hamptonne Country Life Museum, which had farm animals. Each morning I would go down and see the pigs, calves, cockerels, chickens and chicks. Lok i enjoyed coming out with me and I would take him to the play room. It was the best holiday ever!
q
See overleaf for details of family attractions in Jersey.
book online at www.jersey.com
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Hamptonne
JERSEYFILE
Country life On the previous pages the Carroll family told us what they got up to from their base at Hamptonne in the heart of the country. It’s one of a number of quirky historic properties, including coastal forts, which you can rent from: Jersey Heritage Holiday Lets T 01534 633304 www.jerseyheritage.org/heritage-holiday-lets
PLAY STATIONS It’s not difficult to keep the kids (and parents) entertained in Jersey. Quite apart from all those beaches, sandcastles, rock pools and ice cream opportunities, the island has a suitcase full of tricks and treats to keep children happy – whatever the weather.
The National Trust for Jersey also has a few historic properties for rent. www.nationaltrust.je
Animals and adventure parks
It’s our most famous attraction. But even that description doesn’t begin to do justice to Durrell Wildlife Park. Jersey is the base of this international organisation dedicated to conserving endangered species worldwide. See how they go about things at Durrell’s beautiful 32-acre/13-hectare grounds, home to over 1,400 mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians, including gorillas, orang-utans and manic meerkats. You’re guaranteed to get lost at aMaizin! Maze and Adventure Park. After you’ve found your way out of the maze enjoy the rides, games and farm animals. Adventure and family fun are also the themes at Jersey’s Living Legend Village, a large complex with multi-media theatre, adventure golf, go-karting, crafts, play areas and outdoor entertainment.
DURRELL, HOME TO OVER 1,400 ANIMALS
aMaizin! Maze
Les M ie
lles
ildlife Park
Durrell W
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For all the latest… twitter.com/jerseytourism
youtube.com/jerseytourism
facebook.com/visitjersey
flickr.com/jerseytourism
Air, land and water How high do you want to go? There’s thrilling aerial trekking and acrobatics on high ropes, zip wires and giant swings at Creepy Valley Adventure Centre. For all kinds of water games head for the pools, slides and flumes at Aqua Splash. There’s more aquatic activity – including swimming, snorkelling and kayaking – at the recently reopened Jersey Marine Lake, St Aubin’s Bay. One of the UK’s largest marine lakes, it covers and uncovers about three hours either side of the hide tide. For sports facilities there’s Fort Regent and Les Quennevais Sports Centre (the latter complete with indoor pool). Family activities at Les Mielles Fun Zone include mini-golf, laser clay pigeon shooting and a Segway Rally course. Jersey Bowl’s 18-lane bowling centre (plus video games and outdoor play area) is another popular family attraction.
Creepy Valley
a h t You'll Ne W s ' e r e H e d t s i L Tick
For the record aMaizin! Adventure Park, St Peter Open April–mid-September. T 01534 482116 www.jerseyleisure.co.uk Aqua Splash, Waterfront Centre, St Helier Open all year. T 01534 734524 www.aquasplash.je Creepy Valley Adventure Centre, Les Ormes Golf and Leisure Village, St Brelade Open all year. T 01534 638888 www.creepyvalley.je Durrell Wildlife Park, Trinity Open all year. T 01534 860000 www.durrell.org Fort Regent, St Helier Open all year. T 01534 449836 www.active.je Jersey Bowl, St Peter Open all year. T 01534 490444 www.jerseybowl.com Jersey’s Living Legend Village, St Peter Open March–November. T 01534 485496 www.jerseyslivinglegend.co.je Jersey Marine Lake Open May–September. T 01534 497000 www.jerseymarinelake.co.uk Les Mielles Fun Zone, St Ouen’s Bay Open April–November. T 01534 483699 www.lesmielles.com Les Quennevais Sports Centre, St Brelade Open all year. T 01534 449880 www.active.je
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Free and easy
See overleaf for great-value Jersey and things that are absolutely free.
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JERSEYFILE
The Best Things In Life…
… are free. Well, or almost free. You don’t need to spend a fortune to have a good time in Jersey. Pack a picnic. Have a barbecue. Chill out on the beach. Soak up a sunset. Here are more ideas on how to enjoy Jersey for free, together with some great money-saving ideas.
Jersey on a shoestring The sun rising from the Dolmen de
Beautiful,
Faldouët on the east coast, one of
undiscovered
our many prehistoric sites – don’t
Beauport Bay (don’t
worry if you’re not an early
even have to pay
bird, they’re open all hours
for parking)
Free Costa not a lot
Picnic at Grosnez – Almost 100 miles of cycle
the castle is free,
ROUTES – all you need are
the food costs
two wheels
peanuts
Jersey doesn’t cost the earth. The island offers great value for money, it’s quick and easy to get to – and when you arrive, you won’t have any nasty, pricey shocks, for you pay in pounds, not euros
Pick a package
You’ll be amazed by what you can get up to on an island measuring just nine miles by five. Jersey is jam-packed with reasonably priced attractions and places to visit. And because we’re small, getting around and about is easy and inexpensive, especially if you use an unlimited-travel pass from LibertyBus.
For extra-special value see our website’s ‘Special Offers’. These can save you even more money, including free car hire, free half board, free insurance, reductions for children and ‘stay three nights for the price of two’.
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Many tour operators offer easy-tobook, attractively priced holidays and short breaks in Jersey inclusive of travel (by air or sea) and accommodation. Take a look at the listing at the back of this publication or the ‘Book a Holiday’ pages of our website. Between them, these operators offer a dizzying variety of great-value packages. Many will even tailor-make a break just for you.
www.jersey.com/specialoffers
Freedom
Freedom of the island
Get yourself an unlimited-travel LibertyBus pass. They’re available for one, two, three and seven days. Ask at our Visitor Centre for details (T 01534 448877) or go to www.libertybus.je
Booking made easy Holidays and short breaks in Jersey are easy to arrange. Flights and ferry crossings are short, you’re dealing in pounds, not euros, and booking is swift and straightforward. Hotels and operators are listed in the back of this publication. Book direct with them or use the free service for advice and booking on 01534 448888. Or book online at www.jersey.com Festival time – it’s free! Go walking with a guide, watch
Window shopping
air displays, make black
in St Helier – but
butter (an island speciality),
can you resist
celebrate Christmas
going inside?
Soak up St Aubin. The harbour is a class act, but we bet you won’t be able to resist a waterfront
Jersey for free Our top attractions – those Jersey beaches, cliffs, harbours, Green Lanes and woodlands – are absolutely free. Here are a few more things that won’t cost you a penny:
cappuccino or chardonnay
Get to know the island on free guided walks during our Spring and Autumn Walking Weeks (www.jersey.com/walking). Help celebrate the end of the German Occupation of Jersey on Liberation Day, 9 May, when St Helier puts on a great show of pageants and performances. Reach for the skies at the Jersey International Air Display in September. It’s one of the world’s greatest free aerial spectacles (www.jerseyairdisplay.org.uk). Discover mysterious prehistoric sites and chilling German war bunkers scattered across the island (see www.prehistoricjersey.net, www.jerseyheritage.org and the
Occupation Trail Map available free from Jersey Tourism). Visit the Harbour Gallery, St Aubin, for a superb display of original art and sculpture (www.theharbourgalleryjersey.com). Lend a hand at Black Butter making. Learn all about this tasty island delicacy during our Black Butter making weekend, 24–26 October (www.nationaltrust.je). Get festive during La Fête dé Noué. Banish midwinter blues at Jersey’s fabulous pre-Christmas festival, 3–6 December, when island life shines brighter than ever at parades and street performances, markets and musical events.
book online at www.jersey.com
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THERE WAS A WAR ON, YOU KNOW It’s 70 years since Jersey was liberated from German Occupation during World War Two. Explorer, adventurer and founder of the Scientific Exploration Society Colonel John Blashford-Snell returns to the island of his youth with grandsons Jack and Daniel Matthews to rediscover – and share – memories of those times
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Colonel John Blashford-Snell and grandsons outside the Jersey War Tunnels
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s a boy at Jersey’s Victoria College I spent many hours exploring the defences, bunkers and bombproof tunnels built by the Germans to create a ‘Fortress Island’. As the son of a soldier they fascinated me, and together with my pals I lived in hope of finding a hidden cache of German guns. However, we had to content ourselves with rolling the odd landmine over the cliffs at Les Landes. Little did I realise then that in 1962 I would be back in Jersey leading a team of Royal Engineers to survey the tunnels - the main one of which is now open to the public as the Jersey War Tunnels - and list their contents. Given access to the Jersey files and original German plans, our team found many little-known tunnels and a mass of rusting equipment. We also heard horrible stories of roof collapses and casualties amongst the poor labourers forced to build them.
In those days every effort was made to cover up these reminders of the fiveyear Occupation. Half a century on raw memories have mellowed. We can now look on them as legitimate parts of the island’s heritage, and thanks to the efforts of the Channel Islands Occupation Society (CIOS) many bunkers and gun emplacements are being preserved and refurbished. The lives of my grandsons, Jack and Daniel, revolve around sport, wildlife and military history, so I decided it was time they saw where I acquired my taste for adventure and brought them to the island. Thanks to Jersey Heritage we stayed in the refurbished Kempt Tower on St Ouen’s Bay. Built in 1834, the Martello tower was for defence against the French, but like the German fortifications of 1940–45, did not fire a shot in anger. Refitted, the Tower now provides very pleasant self-catering accommodation for up to 12 persons and was the perfect base from which to explore Jersey’s many other fortifications.
Inside the Channel Islands Military Museum
Liberation Square
book online at www.jersey.com
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The bunkers at Corbière Strongpoint
Thanks to the CIOS there is much to see. But we called in first at the privately run Channel Islands Military Museum, just a stone’s throw from Kempt Tower. Housed in an old bunker, it’s packed with WW2 memorabilia and evocative tableaux that cover everything from Germany’s iron-fisted rule to the sense of defeat that crept into the occupying forces when the war was coming to an end. Corbière Strongpoint on Jersey’s rocky south-western headland, is one of the CIOS sites open to the public on a regular basis. It consists of heavily constructed ferro-concrete bunkers with walls over six feet thick and massive armoured doors, used for the installation of an extraordinary automatic rapid-firing mortar plus a couple of powerful coastal guns. The automatic mortar could fire 120 rounds a minute. The Army describes a fast, loud talker as someone ‘speaking like a belt-fed mortar’. This formidable weapon might well be the origin of that description. Interestingly, the reconstruction of the bunker’s interior has been aided by a German ex-soldier who served at the strongpoint and returned to tell his story to the CIOS in 1980. The island’s story of the Occupation from start to finish is told at the Jersey War Tunnels, in countryside a few miles from St Helier (separate from the CIOS, it’s Jersey’s most visited ‘attraction’, open daily from March to November). When I first explored the tunnels as a schoolboy they were just bare, ill-lit concrete-lined shafts, furnished with a few iron beds. Now I was amazed by the detailed exhibitions and displays telling the compelling story of the Occupation and how the civilian population lived, enduring great hardship. It is, quite literally, a journey through time, with a series of dramatically presented themed rooms and displays that take you from the pre-war ‘Threatened Island’ to ‘First Contact’ with German troops, then on to ‘Daily Life’ for the islanders, their fear
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of ‘Whispers and Lies’ from collaborating neighbours through to the joyous ‘Liberation’ on 9 May 1945. It is all the more atmospheric and authentic because of its setting at Ho8 (short for Hohlgangsanlage 8), an eerie catacomb of tunnels built as an underground barracks and ammunition store, but later converted to a hospital. The Jersey War Tunnels leave nothing unsaid. Even the seamier features of life under the swastika are here with lists and photographs of a few locals who shamefully fraternised with the invaders before fleeing the island in disgrace at the end of the war. But I don’t doubt some might have behaved like this on the mainland, had the Germans landed.
‘the reconstruction of the bunker’s interior has been aided by a German ex-soldier who served at the strongpoint’ There are also lists of those who suffered deportation to concentration camps in Germany and brave individuals who escaped in small boats, sometimes carrying plans of the German defences. Peering into some unfinished shafts brought back memories of our 1962 operation when we detected a strong smell in a tunnel. Fearing poison gas we got out quickly but then discovered that it came from rusting barrels of calcium carbide producing gas for underground lighting. Had anyone struck a match in there, I might not be writing this now!
jack Matthews, aged 14 ‘The Jersey War Tunnels were pretty amazing’
Inside the Jersey War Tunnels
Evidence of Jersey’s WW2 experiences crop up everywhere, sometimes in the most unlikely of places. St Helier’s Maritime Museum, with its working models, is without doubt the finest maritime museum I have ever seen and can keep young people entranced for hours. It is also home to the Occupation Tapestry, a heroic piece of work that echoes the world-famous example at Bayeux, which took over 300 islanders 30,000 hours to complete. Then there is the way that the island’s two iconic castles were adapted to modern warfare. When you visit Mont Orgueil Castle and Elizabeth Castle today you can clearly see how they were modified with new fortifications during WW2. Sailing away from Jersey on the Condor Ferry, Jack asked me what Hitler’s impregnable ‘Fortress Island’ achieved. ‘It cost him over 10 per cent of the material allocated for the construction of his massive defensive Atlantic Wall and tied up over 20,000 soldiers and weapons that would have been invaluable to him in Normandy,’ I explained. ‘In this way alone, Jersey played a valuable part in the final victory.’ The boy nodded thoughtfully. ‘Will it happen again, Grandpa?’
John Blashford-Snell’s autobiography Something Lost Behind the Ranges has recently been republished by the Scientific Exploration Society. It tells many tales of Jersey. Copies are available via www.ses-explore.org
See overleaf for more on Jersey’s history and heritage and how the island will be celebrating the 70th anniversary of Liberation from German Occupation in 201 5.
q
My trip to Jersey was a brilliant experience. We saw many interesting, historic places such as German bunkers, the War Tunnels and Mont Orgueil Castle. The German mortar bunker at Corbière was very interesting because you could see what had happened there. I was fascinated that the mortar could fire two shells a second, and the displays showed the cramped space in which the soldiers lived. The Jersey War Tunnels were pretty amazing and I really enjoyed looking at the unfinished parts of the system that showed what it would have been like to work in the dark, damp conditions. The video of the rock fall on the poor diggers was dramatic, reminding me of the dangers faced. Our visit to the Military Museum at St Ouen’s was especially interesting as Grandpa was able to describe many of the German weapons we saw.
11 Daniel Matthews, aged ‘I wondered what would have happened if the Germans had invaded England’
As we came close to Jersey we could see the huge German defences and when we landed my first thought was that we were a bit cut off from the rest of the world. I noticed most streets had French names. At Kempt Tower huge waves were breaking over the sea wall. It looked very ghostly, but I loved it. I think it is now more comfortable than when the gunners lived there. The Maritime Museum was awesome with a great tapestry showing what happened in Jersey under Nazi occupation. There were lots of things to do and learn from. I got a good idea of life in Jersey under Nazi occupation from the amazing tapestry and wondered what would have happened if the Germans had invaded England. In the Corbière bunker we saw how hungry German soldiers caught fish, lobsters and rabbits to eat and how they lived in this cold, damp gun position. I wondered how they washed. The bunker still has a smell. It could not have been much fun but at least they did not have to fight in the end. The Jersey War Tunnels had an awesome display on how they were dug by starving Russian prisoners and what living under German occupation was like. I’ m glad I was not in Jersey then.
book online at www.jersey.com
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JERSEYFILE
LIBERTY AND HISTORY
Timeline 6,000 years ago. La Hougue Bie is Jersey’s ‘Stonehenge’. One of Europe’s finest passage graves burrows into a huge man-made mound, topped by a medieval chapel. Stoop down and enter the long, gloomy tunnel which has been cleverly aligned to allow the sun’s rays to penetrate the inner chamber at spring and autumn equinoxes.
2015 marks the 70th anniversary of the Liberation of Jersey from Germany’s five-year Occupation of the island during World War Two. It’s one of many milestones in our history, a dramatic and traumatic episode that has left many reminders – bunkers, tunnels, defences and other memorabilia – of Hitler’s ill-founded master plan to fortify the island. They are just some of countless bookmarks from the island’s eventful story. Is there another patch of land measuring nine miles by five on the planet that’s richer than Jersey when it comes to historic sights? If so, we’d like to know. The island is studded with places to visit ranging from haunting prehistoric tombs to those gripping, dramatic reminders of WW2. In between, there are medieval castles, museums and manor houses. And it’s all served up in an engaging way. You’ll relive the WW2 Occupation at the unmissable Jersey War Tunnels experience. On a lighter note, mums, dads and kids will love exploring exciting Mont Orgueil Castle and singing along to sea shanties at the Maritime Museum. .
3 April–11 May:
Channel Islands Heritage Festival 9 May 2015 marks the 70th anniversary of our liberation from Occupying Forces during World War Two. Join us to celebrate a very special occasion that reflects the true spirit of the island. Liberation Day on Saturday 9th is the centrepiece of a festival that includes heritage trails, access to bunkers and fortifications, re-enactments and other celebrations. www.jersey.com/liberation
The island is dotted with many other prehistoric graves and tombs that you can visit at all reasonable times. For details go to: www.jerseyheritage.org / www.prehistoricjersey.net The passage chamber is almost 19m/62ft long.
Over 2,000 years ago. The world’s largest hoard of Celtic coins has recently been discovered in Jersey. It contains around 70,000 silver and copper coins used by the Celtic tribe known as the Coriosolites. Fused together after all these years buried underground, this amazing hoard is slowly and meticulously being ‘dismantled’ at Jersey Museum, where it’s the subject of a new exhibition. There is also a display at La Hougue Bie. www.jerseyheritage.org
There are around 70,000 coins – and we’re still counting.
13th century. That’s when they started building Mont Orgueil Castle, a Jersey icon. Its presence is overpowering, completely dominating the harbourside at Gorey as it climbs up the sea cliff in a series of giant fortified terraces. Within, imaginative – and sometimes ghoulish – displays and exhibitions evoke the castle’s past.
Thank you, Sir Walter. Raleigh saved Mont Orgueil from demolition.
Samarès Manor also dates from Norman times, but like many historic houses evolved over the centuries. Take a guided tour, visit the ancient dovecote and Rural Life and Carriage Museum, or wander around its beautiful grounds and gardens. 14th century. Go to the mysterious ruins of Grosnez Castle and ponder its fate. Pack a camera, for Grosnez – on a windy headland overlooking Guernsey – is worth visiting for its breathtaking location alone.
Tracing the past
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Société Jersiaise promotes and encourages the study of the history, archaeology, natural history, language and many other subjects of interest in Jersey (T 01534 758314, www.societejersiaise.org). The Channel Islands Family History Society is dedicated to studying and tracing the family histories of Channel Islanders (www.jerseyfamilyhistory.org).
Follow the Occupation Trail 15th century. Buildings have been recorded at Hamptonne since 1445. It’s a complete rural community in miniature – a cluster of farm dwellings, barns and workshops that recreate a vanished way of life from Jersey’s bygone times. Cider is still made at Hamptonne
Learn all about Jersey’s tradition of cider making at Hamptonne.
Late 16th century. That’s just the first chapter in Elizabeth Castle’s long story. Begun in 1590, this huge offshore fortress – only when you get there do you realise it’s that big – spans island history from Sir Walter Raleigh to the German Occupation. At high tide, the short trip by amphibious craft from St Helier is great fun (when the tide is out you can walk).
18th/19th centuries. Step back centuries to see how the gentry lived at the meticulously restored and furnished Georgian House in Helier, built around 1730. Just out of town, Le Moulin de Quétivel only working mill left in St Peter’s Valley that still grinds its own flour. some at the mill shop, then see the exhibition and short film. Just the beach at Grève de Lecq visit Jersey’s only surviving barracks, around 200 years ago for troops garrisoned to combat the threat of Napoleonic invasion. You can stay at Grève de Lecq’s Officers’ Quarters.
Museums too
The island’s history, traditions and culture come together under one roof at Jersey Museum and Art Gallery. Exhibits range from the priceless pure gold 3,000-yearold St Helier Torque to an atmospheric Victorian merchant’s house. There is also an interactive space for young visitors. Jersey’s seafaring past comes to life in St Helier’s hugely entertaining Maritime Museum. Listen to sea shanties, sail a boat, walk the decks, plot your voyage around the world, shiver your timbers. It also contains the Occupation Tapestry, a monumental – and moving – work of art based on World War Two island life. The Pallot Steam, Motor and General Museum is a fascinating private collection of steam engines and other machinery, with a display on Jersey Railways, steam and diesel train rides. Motorsport fans won’t want to miss the recently opened Mansell Collection. Videos, trophies and racing cars celebrate Jersey resident Nigel Mansell’s heroic motor racing career and Formula One World Championship.
The Channel Islands Military Museum, St Ouen Open April–October. T 01534 483205 or 07797 732072 www.germanww2militaria.co.uk
Georgian House, 16 New Street, St Helier Open March–November. T 01534 483193 www.nationaltrust.je
Living history at the castle
lived St is the Buy above built
For the record
Elizabeth Castle, St Helier Open daily March–November. T 01534 723971 www.jerseyheritage.org
An earlier inhabitant? St Helier is said to have lived on this rocky islet in 550AD.
Georgian House
Our Occupation Trail map and booklet features 50 sites, scattered across the island, constructed during World War Two to create Hitler’s ‘Fortress Jersey’. Priced £2.50, it’s available from Jersey Tourism.
1939–45. Jersey’s compelling World War Two history crops up everywhere, in coastal fortifications and museums, but most forcefully at the Jersey War Tunnels. This must-visit site is an atmospheric underground world that evokes the German Occupation and all it entailed – the human as well as the military story, the everyday struggles of island folk as well as Hitler’s grandiose folly in creating a 'Fortress Island’. The Channel Islands Military Museum is also housed in a former fortified German bunker. It’s Jersey’s only display of all-authentic German World War Two militaria plus civilian Occupation items. The Channel Islands Occupation Society is a volunteer organisation dedicated to keeping key sites from Jersey’s Occupation (like the impressive Noirmont Command Bunker between St Aubin and St Brelade) open to the public throughout the warmer months. www.ciosjersey.org.uk Over 1km of chambers were dug at the War Tunnels by forced and slave labour.
Grève de Lecq Barracks, St Mary Open Wednesday–Sunday May–September. T 01534 483193 www.nationaltrust.je Grosnez Castle, St Ouen Accessible at all reasonable times. Hamptonne Country Life Museum, St Lawrence Open daily May–September. T 01534 863955 www.jerseyheritage.org La Hougue Bie, Grouville Open daily March–November. T 01534 853823 www.jerseyheritage.org Jersey Museum and Art Gallery, St Helier Open Saturdays January–late March, daily late March onwards. T 01534 633300 www.jerseyheritage.org Jersey War Tunnels, St Lawrence Open March–November. T 01534 860808 www.jerseywartunnels.com The Mansell Collection, St Helier Open all year (closed Sundays). T 01534 880606 www.themansellcollection.co.uk Maritime Museum and Occupation Tapestry, St Helier Open Sundays January–late March, daily late March–November. T 01534 811043 www.jerseyheritage.org Mont Orgueil Castle, Gorey Open Fridays–Mondays January–late March, daily late March–November. T 01534 853292 www.jerseyheritage.org Le Moulin de Quétivel, St Peter Open Saturdays May–September. T 01534 483193 www.nationaltrust.je Pallot Steam, Motor and General Museum, Trinity Open daily (except Sundays) April–October. T 01534 865307 www.pallotmuseum.co.uk Samarès Manor, St Clement Open April–October. T 01534 870551 www.samaresmanor.com
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OH I DO LIKE TO BE BESIDE THE
Jersey’s beach and coastal cafés certainly do. They’re an island icon, and come in all shapes and sizes, from cheeky little kiosks to cool surfing cantinas. Roger Thomas and his wife Liz take a café crawl around the island to find out what makes them tick
You hear a lot about fine dining in Jersey. It’s an affluent island with more than its fair share of Michelin stars, AA rosettes and celebrity chefs. But they are just the pinnacle of a big foodie pyramid that tastes good from top to bottom. Further down the food chain there are chic bistros and harbour restaurants buzzing with joie de vivre. Then come the beach cafés, dotted all around the coast. They’re on the promenade between St Helier and St Aubin, serving joggers, cyclists, office workers and dog walkers. Head out to Jersey’s wild west or rugged north coasts and you’ll find them there too, perched on rocky promontories or fishing harbours. Locals make a point of visiting these on weekends or days off, arguing over which one serves the best crab sandwich or juicy burger. Here are a few of our favourites from north, south, east and west.
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Peachy beach view from Colleens
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Where? Plémont Bay Café. T 01534 482005. Why go? Shh, it’s a little bit secret. It’s a local favourite, something that applies to the location as well as the café itself. Plémont Bay isn’t the easiest place to get to. Tucked away amongst cliffs, it’s accessible by a narrow road or lots of steps from a clifftop car park. But it’s worth making the effort. The beach is gorgeous, and the café is full of maritime zest and colour, with fishy artefacts and sea-blue décor. It’s run by hands-on Paul Baxter, who sums up Jersey’s beach café culture nicely. ‘All our cafés are worth their salt,’ he says magnanimously. ‘They have to be, for islanders like to make the most of their surroundings.’ What’s on the menu? I had what was possibly the best burger I’ve ever tasted. Epitomising the Genuine Jersey ethos, the scheme that promotes local produce, it was made of 100% best Jersey beef from the farm next door (okay, it was actually on top of the cliff). Other items on the menu include Jersey crab cakes, traditional fish and chips, sandwiches, wraps, ciabattas, waffles and a dizzying range of breakfast choices (breakfasts are big favourites with islanders – does anyone cook at home?). What to do after you’ve eaten. Explore the beach, of course. There are rock pools and sea-caves too, and spooky boulders that look like giant marbles.
Top tip. Check the tides. When it’s in it laps up to the base of the café, submerging the entire beach. What’s cooking elsewhere? Hop over the headland to Grève de Lecq, another picturesque sandy bay that, unlike Plémont, is easily accessible. Colleens is a bright and airy New England-style clapperboard café on the harbour. Specials can include mackerel fillets, while the extensive menu features everything from seasonal salads to paninis.
Alfesco at Plémont Bay
ColleenS
book online at www.jersey.com
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For more information on coastal cafés see Jersey Tourism’s free leaflet on the subject. And for more on the island’s food scene see the Jerseyfile on pages 56–57.
A few best westerns
Where? El Tico, St Ouen’s Bay. T 01534 482009, www.elticojersey.com Why go? If you like your beach cafés sleek and shiny, hip and happening, then El Tico is for you. Actually, it’s called a ‘beach cantina’, not a café. It certainly looks the part. The low-slung art deco building, painted dazzling adobe white, overlooks St Ouen’s massive beach. Inside, it’s bright and luminous, with surfboards hanging from the ceiling along with globe lights that might have been rescued from a Left Bank Parisian café. Smiling staff scurry about serving a mixed crowd – millionaire financiers doing deals on their mobiles, happy families, ladies who lunch and surfing dudes. What’s on the menu? It’s a bit different to the Gunsight or Breakwater cafés (see opposite). Breakfasts include coconut porridge, maple crunch, French cinnamon toast and cantina Mexican eggs (along with the full English Monty for diehards). The menu, like the place itself, is inventive and well thought out. We shared two dishes – a whopping prawn cocktail and Cajun spiced crab and prawn club sandwich. But we could have chosen anything from smoked haddock and potato chowder to gourmet burgers, local moules and lobster to crab linguine.
O EL TIC
What to do after you’ve eaten. Surfing is Jersey’s national sport, and St Ouen’s its spiritual home. So hire a wetsuit and surfboard from Laneez Surf Centre next door and head off into the blue yonder.
Top tip. You can have surfing and bodyboarding lessons too to get you started, at a number of centres dotted along the bay.
THE 'SAND MAN'
What’s cooking elsewhere? It’s pushing things to call it a café, but it’s one of my favourites. Faulkner Fisheries at the top end of St Ouen’s supplies many of the island’s best hotels and restaurants. It also runs an alfresco eatery from April to October. You sit on wooden tables scattered haphazardly around a rocky headland, walk into the fishery to place your order, and eat amazing seafood at amazingly reasonable prices. Try the seafood soup de jour, grilled lobster, oysters, mussels or crabmeat cocktail, with ingredients all plucked fresh from the sea. esh
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South coasting Where? Slice and Scoop, on the promenade along St Aubin’s Bay about a mile west of St Helier. T 07700 788700, www.sliceandscoop.co.uk Why go? It’s the new kid on the block. Slice and Scoop proves that things move on and evolve, even with tried-and-tested beach cafés. This tiny kiosk – it really is minuscule – specialises in pizzas and ice cream. But not just any old pizzas and ice cream. The former are wafer-thin, proper Italian jobs, not deep-pan obese American. And the ice cream is homemade and heavenly. What’s on the menu? As well as those slices and scoops they also serve paninis, tartes flambées, salads and (of course) breakfast rolls. All hot food comes without fuss on paper plates with disposable wooden forks that snap in two as soon as you start to use them – so use your hands instead. I had the capricciosa pizza with goat’s cheese while Liz went for the pizza al prosciutto with an avocado side
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salad. But best of all were the sensational ice creams, almost chewy and granular in texture instead of the sloppy Mr Whippystyle stuff that’s so common nowadays. And they were bursting with flavour. What to do after you’ve eaten. Walk (or cycle – see below) along the promenade that curves around St Aubin’s Bay.
Top tip. Hire a bike in St Helier and ride along the seafront cyclepath to St Aubin’s Harbour (it’s about three miles), stopping at Slice and Scoop on the way.
SLICE AND SCOOP
What’s cooking elsewhere? I don’t think goat’s cheese has ever seen the inside of the Gunsight Café further along the bay. It’s another Jersey legend, probably because the menu is legendary too – in the sense that little has changed over the years. This old school, honest-togoodness café proudly serves everything from sandwiches to bacon and eggs, fish and chips to black pudding (an extra at 85p). And, whisper it, salads and veggie breakfasts too. It’s always busy and has been here since 1949, so it must be doing something right.
THE NEAR EAST Where? The Breakwater Café, St Catherine’s Breakwater. T 01534 851141. Why go? It has been here forever – well, 50 or 60 years – and only closes on Christmas Day. Locals love the place for its unashamedly ‘old-fashioned English food’. We liked the views too. Grab a table in the sleek new canopied area where you can dine alfresco in sunny weather and gaze out across a huge, open bay framed by the breakwater pier on one side and Mont Orgueil Castle, perched on its sea cliff, on the other. You know what you’re going to get in this homely, unpretentious café – which might explain why half the people eating here were on first-name terms with the staff.
MAN THE HUNGRY
What’s on the menu? We went all crustacean. Mine was a crab salad heaped with succulent meat while Liz had a more modest crab sandwich served with a salad garnish. But we could have had cheese or ham toasties, bacon and egg or BLT rolls, burgers, sausages and mash and – of course – that Jersey café classic, the all-day breakfast. ‘Please be patient,’ says the menu, ‘it’s not about how fast we can deliver your food to the table, but how tasty it is.’ What to do after you’ve eaten. That’s easy. Walk it off with a stroll along St Catherine’s Breakwater. It may take longer
Above and top: Breakwater Café
GUNSITE C AFé
than you think – it’s around three-quarters of a mile there and back. The breakwater, a popular fishing spot, represents unfinished business. It was built in the mid-19th century as part of a grandiose plan, never completed, to construct a massive naval station.
Top tip. Call in and see Simon Smith, the ‘sand man’, just down the road. His elaborate sand sculptures – he’s a former world champion – take him 50 days to create each year. What’s cooking elsewhere? The Hungry Man at Rozel Harbour is possibly Jersey’s most famous coastal café. A legend in its own lunchtime, locals drive acrossisland for its daunting Hungry Man Special (simply described as ‘The Works!’) and even more formidable Double-Decker Health Wrecker (double bacon and double cheeseburger). Personally, I prefer their quite fabulous crab sandwiches and a nice mug of tea (90p).
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his,’ our instructor Geoff said, ‘is our arena!’ We stood on a stretch of seemingly endless beach, overlooked by a sprawling, clifftop castle. Fiona and I were at the Royal Bay of Grouville on Jersey’s east coast. We’d come for an activity break, the short flight from Gatwick giving us plenty of time to pack everything in.
EASTERN PROMISE
First up, water skiing – although the sea, it seemed, had other ideas. ‘To be honest,’ Geoff said, ‘it’s a little bit rough today.’ Right on cue, thousands of whitetipped waves appeared to rear their heads in the bay. Geoff suggested we head further up the bay to Gorey where it would be more sheltered. ‘That’s the beauty of Jersey,’ he added, as we piled into our cars. ‘If conditions aren’t right on one beach, it’s never far to get to another.’ That morning, as I lay in my incredibly cosy bed in our yurt at Beuvelande Campsite in St Martin (more on that later), I couldn’t help feeling a bit apprehensive. How do you learn to water ski – exactly? I had visions of clinging
When it comes to watersports, Jersey’s west coast – a surfing superstar – attracts all the limelight. But there’s a lot happening on the water out east too, as intrepid action girl, travel writer and television presenter Karen Bowerman and friend Fiona Appleyard-Dyer discover
‘It was fantastic: salty splashes, straggly hair and a ridiculous grin’
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Water skiing at Gorey, overlooked by Mont Orgueil Castle
to a rope, at the back of a boat, with my instructor a dot in the distance. But then, I hadn’t been aware of The Pole – the training bar attached to the side of Geoff’s speedboat. His company, the Jersey Sea Sport Centre, is the only one on the island that has this. The minute I saw it, it filled me with confidence. All I had to do (Geoff’s words, not mine) was slip into the sea, bring my knees up to my chest, hold on tight (arms braced) and ‘let the pole do the rest’. ‘It’s easy!’ he said (he always had a word of encouragement), ‘just shout Hit it! when you’re ready to go.’
‘Hit it?’ ‘No and go sound too similar, and I don’t want to shoot off without you.’ Hit it! suddenly sounded fine. Geoff revved the speedboat; Fiona, sitting next to him, got out the camera and smirked. Remarkably, I rose straight out of the water. It was fantastic: salty splashes,
straggly hair and a ridiculous grin, then off popped a ski and I was down. But – and this, to me, was the biggest advantage of water skiing over snow skiing – the waves cushioned my fall. Even my wayward ski had the courtesy to float close by… While the swell made water skiing challenging, it was just what we needed for our next bout of aquatic action. We drove north, past sandy coves and pastelcoloured houses, to St Catherine’s Bay and its huge breakwater, over one-quarter of a mile long. The French Lieutenant’s Woman would really need to have been fuelled by love to hike all the way out here in a storm.
KAREN BOWERM AN
We were there to meet Richard and Tom from Jersey Seafaris to explore the east and north of the island in a RIB (rigid inflatable boat). ‘It’s an adrenalinfuelled, scenic ride,’ Richard said, when I asked whether it was all about speed. In fact, it was the perfect combination. At times, as we pounded through the waves, music blaring and splattered with spray, I was convinced we’d displaced half the ocean.
book online at www.jersey.com
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RIB riding
An underwater world revealed at low tide
But then, to change the tempo, we’d float gently along the shore, past lobster pots and gannet-cluttered rocks, chugging into caves and admiring cliffs, as Richard recounted old tales dreamt up by smugglers to keep villagers at bay.
‘We splashed through gullies, cut across sandbanks and clambered over rocks which that morning had been 40ft underwater’ ‘There was once a black dog,’ he said, as we rose and fell with the waves. ‘It used to roam the cliffs at Bouley Bay after breaking free from its chain. It was a massive beast. The slightest mention of it sent locals hurrying back to their homes… which was good news for the smugglers.’ The RIB ride over, we returned, in a more leisurely fashion, to the north-east coast for a cup of tea at The Hungry Man kiosk at Rozel. Richard had recommended it – though largely for its Jersey beef burgers, said to be the perfect hangover cure.
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Then, as a sizzling September sun sunk out of the sky, we had supper at the Crab Shack, a small restaurant on a hill overlooking Gorey Harbour. We ordered crab on bruschetta with lentils, and local scallops smothered in garlic. The atmosphere was akin to a trendy, Thames-side pub. That night, the solar lights at the hobbit door of our yurt welcomed us home. Inside, the burner’s flickering log-effect fire gave the tent a rosy glow. But the brightest light came from the full moon which flooded through the circular window in the pointed, canvas roof, throwing patterns on the rush mat floor.The yurt, with its colourful curtains and bright cushions, had the feel of a hippy Big Top. There was plenty of space, real beds, a gas stove, a fridge for holiday beers, electricity (for the iPad or straighteners) … oh, and free Jersey fudge (and free Wi-Fi). As the wind whooshed outside, I fell asleep feeling incredibly toasty. I awoke to cawing crows and another day of sunshine. Jersey has one of the world’s largest tide variations, and our visit happened to fall on one of the few days a year when the tides are extreme and the island famously doubles in size, albeit temporarily. It prompted Derek from Jersey Kayak and Walk Adventures to suggest a day of paddling and hiking, with the chance to experience, first hand, how the island changes with the tide: in the morning, we’d kayak along the coast, in the afternoon we’d walk the same route.
We set off from La Rocque Harbour on the island’s south-eastern tip and headed west to Green Island beach. Derek dubbed it the ‘Nosey Paddle’ as we passed millionaires’ mansions right on the water, surrounded by fields and dunes. He pointed out oyster catchers and egrets, the Witches’ Rock, said to have an imprint of the hooves of the devil (those smugglers got everywhere), and told us all sorts of things I never knew about seaweed. Did you know that a frond of egg wrack can live for 15 years? We counted the air bladders to check (it’s one per year); there’s no disguising your age in weed land. The sea was already dropping at a phenomenal three inches a minute when we began our tidal walk a few hours later. ‘It’s like a plug’s being pulled out of the ocean,’ Derek said, as retreating water rippled around our feet. It was fascinating to see, in such detail, what the ocean was leaving behind: burrowing razor shells spurting water like mini-fountains, pink-tipped anemones, scallops, periwinkles and crabs.
We splashed through gullies, cut across sandbanks and clambered over rocks which that morning had been 40ft underwater. Our walk took us to two towers, Icho and Seymour, fortifications built more than a mile offshore to defend the island from the French. Then, three hours later, as shrimp fishermen began returning to the jetty on the mainland, Derek suggested we too should head back. ‘Never ignore the drumbeat of the tides,’ he said. ‘The other thing you shouldn’t ignore,’ I thought, ‘is a celebratory drink.’ After an action-packed few days, I felt Fiona and I deserved it. We abandoned showers in favour of that wild, windswept look (I’m told it’s very now) and went in search of a few (generous) glasses of wine. We found them (and more delicious seafood) at Gorey. What with the harbour lights, the clanking boats and the balmy evening, it felt as if we were abroad. We toasted Jersey – and the calories we felt sure we had lost. Then, grabbing a menu and spotting the wine list, we decided to put them back on.
FIONA’S ISLAND INTERLUDE When Karen invited me on an active break, I didn’t expect her to say we were going to Jersey. But it proved an ideal choice for a few days away. We took an early flight from Gatwick, picked up a hire car and were heading to the campsite by mid-morning. Everything was so quick and easy. I was surprised by how many adventure sports were on offer. I loved paddling along the coast, taking in the scenery and birdlife. The RIB ride was also more exciting than those I’d done elsewhere, since we explored cliffs and caves and didn’t just race across the sea. We were based on the east of the island – a good choice, for one minute we were in the countryside and the next beside the sea. And Gorey Harbour has some great restaurants. In fact, I enjoyed Jersey so much I’m planning to return with my husband and young daughter next summer. Fiona Appleyard-Dyer
See overleaf for more on watersports in Jersey.
‘The yurt had the feel of a hippy Big Top’
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Wet, wet, wet Karen Bowerman’s aqua adventures, described on the previous pages, are just the start of it. She dipped her toe into an island activities scene that’s much bigger than you might think. Her camping accommodation was more cosseting and comfy than you may think too – she stayed at a luxury yurt near the east coast at: Beuvelande Campsite, St Martin T 01534 853575 www.campingjersey.com Her activities were provided by: Jersey Sea Sport Centre T 07797 738180, www.jerseyseasport.com Jersey Seafaris T 07829 772222, www.jerseyseafaris.com Jersey Kayak Adventures and Jersey Walk Adventures T 07797 853033 www.jerseykayakadventures.co.uk www.jerseywalkadventures.co.uk
The sea’s the limit Saltwater runs through our veins. The sea is never more than a few miles away in Jersey, giving us a head start when it comes to sailing and watersports. And water meets land along a hugely varied coastline that includes big surfing beaches and intimate rock-bound coves, clear diving waters and gently shelving sands. What’s more, we’re an island with a rich maritime heritage – the people of Jersey love the sea, and like to share their passion with visiting enthusiasts. Here are some of the things you can get up to on – and beneath – those Jersey waves.
Contact the experts For full details of activity operators in Jersey – who they are, what they offer – go to: www.jersey.com/active
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GIVE US A WAVE If you know Jersey it comes as no surprise that the island is home to a complete alphabet of outdoor activities that runs from A to Z… since you ask, that’s archery, abseiling and aero adventures all the way to zorbing and zip wire riding. We’ve dedicated the next few pages to what you can get up to on water and lands. For the full picture go to: www.jersey.com/active
Beach boys (and girls). Surfing is big time in Jersey. It’s easy to become part of the local scene when you head out west to the big beach – and big surf – along St Ouen’s Bay. Other hot spots include Plémont and Grève de Lecq. There’s a surfeit of expertise too – we’re home to one of the world’s oldest surfing clubs, and surf schools, board hire and advice are all plentiful.
Paddle power. Go kayaking to hidden coves and rocky foreshores where bigger boats can’t go. We’re a world-class sea kayaking destination, with clear, wildlife-rich waters, alluring reefs, coastal hideaways and remote sea-caves. We’re also big on paddleboarding, the latest must-do in the world of watersports.
By boat. Experience Jersey the best way – the way that locals know it. We’re talking about boat trips, cruises and charters. Cruise around the bay, go fishing, watch dolphins and seals, snorkel off idyllic offshore reefs, try your hand at sailing or sip champagne while your friendly skipper takes care of everything.
Plain sailing? There’s no such thing here. Our coastal waters and scenery are very special. Add a thriving maritime culture to the nautical mix and visiting beginners know they’ll be looked after by experts, while experienced sailors can enjoy superb facilities at our marinas, harbours and slipways.
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Surf’s up – catch big Atlantic waves at west-facing St Ouen’s
Explore hidden coves by kayak and watch the wildlife
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Swim in our crystal clear seas – in August they reach 17° C/61° F
Wind power. Use
the wind, take to the water. Windsurfing combines the thrills of surfing with the tranquillity of sailing, all against the backdrop of a beautiful Jersey coastline.
Wake up to… wakeboarding, which is like snowboarding on water. Get up to all kinds of tricks as you’re pulled through the waves by a speedboat. It’s no more difficult than riding a bike. Those who stick to two skis for their wintersports might prefer waterskis – again, the learning curve is fast in the hands of our experienced operators.
Now’s the time to fish for large pollack and cod
Skimming the surface. Enjoy fun on an inflatable as you’re pulled behind a speedboat (our donut and banana rides are fast, furious and famous). Pilot your own jetski – they’re not difficult to handle and are guaranteed to put a big smile on your face. Or sit back and enjoy a speedboat trip around the bay.
Buried treasure. Jersey also looks good underwater. Those clear seas are alive with marine life, much of it now internationally recognised and protected. There are reefs and shipwrecks too… which all add up to sensational scuba diving, especially along the rugged north coast at places like Bouley Bay, Bonne Nuit, Rozel Bay and St Catherine’s Breakwater. Our dive operators welcome beginners and experts.
Dishy fishing. There’s superb shoreline fishing from rocks, breakwaters and harbours for black bream, mullet, bass, wrasse and conger. Or head out by boat into the shallows, gullies and great blue yonder on a fishing trip for bass, rays, tope, turbot and brill. For freshwater anglers there’s good reservoir fly-fishing for trout as well as coarse fishing.
A foot in both camps. The crazy sport of coasteering involves cliff climbing and splashing around in the sea – for more details see the following Jerseyfile featuring land-based activities.
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See overleaf for land-based activities.
book online at www.jersey.com
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JERSEYFILE
ALL GO On these pages we take a look at the things you can get up to on dry land (and up in the air) in Jersey. You’ll need to bring plenty of energy. Jersey’s outdoor scene is full of activity and adrenaline. Go go-karting, abseiling or sky diving. Play golf or try blokarting on our big beaches – it’s an island speciality. Here’s a sample. For the full picture go to: www.jersey.com/active
Blo… what? You’ve not heard of blokarting? Then come to Jersey, where it’s big time on our big beaches. A blokart is a wind-powered go-kart that propels you along at up to 55mph. It’s something everyone can try – it only takes 10 minutes or so to grasp the basics. For a variation on the theme there’s also X-sailing.
Green and scenic. It’s not just the greens and fairways, but the views too. Golf in Jersey is highly scenic. We have headland and country courses, 18-hole championship challenges and friendly nine-holers, American-style parkland courses and driving ranges. And our famously sunny climate makes the golf even more enjoyable.
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Go geocaching. It’s catching on in a big way. Geocaching is high-tech treasure hunting using GPS equipment (all is explained on www.geocaching.com). There are over 100 caches hidden in Jersey – it’s a fun, family-friendly way of getting out and about.
Up, up and away. Loop the loop, fly across to France, take a trial flying lesson or skydive from 10,000ft/3,000m for the ultimate adrenaline rush. Jersey Aero Club and activity operators will have you reaching for – and parachuting through – the skies.
High times. Abseiling and rock climbing are popular adventure sports here. Our granite cliffs are just great for climbing – and to cool down when it’s all over, take a dip in the sea. Best of all, combine the two – cliff climbing and splashing around in the waves – on a coasteering adventure.
You name it… you can go do it in Jersey. We offer everything from high ropes and zip wire excitement to paintballing and orienteering, go-karting and raftmaking to shooting, zorbing and multi-activity days out. It’s all on our website: www.jersey.com/active
For all the latest…
Contact the experts
twitter.com/jerseytourism
youtube.com/jerseytourism
facebook.com/visitjersey
flickr.com/jerseytourism
For full details of activity operators in Jersey – who they are, what they offer – go to: www.jersey.com/active
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Jersey and the game of rugby go back a long way. Jersey Rugby Football Club is one of the oldest, dating back to the 1870s. It’s also highly successful, having enjoyed a meteoric rise through the English ranks to the professional Greene King IPA/RFU Championship and British and Irish Cup. Home games attract big crowds from locals and supporters of visiting teams, especially since many have easy access to direct flights to Jersey. And more and more enthusiasts are coming not just to watch great rugby at JRFC’s home ground near the airport but to enjoy a weekend away or longer break on the island. For more details, including fixtures and accommodation packages go to: www.jersey.com/rugby
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Two wheels, two feet Find out why Jersey was made for cycling and walking on pages 36–41.
book online at www.jersey.com
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ROBERT COULDW ELL
‘The displays in the People’s Park take you back to bygone eras with a range of beautifully preserved machinery up to 80 years old’
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Jersey is closer to France than Britain in many ways. Like its near-neighbour, it’s very fond of fêtes. Festivals of all kinds are thick on the ground, taking in everything from flowers to fast cars. The Jersey International Festival of Motoring is just one of many island celebrations. Motoring writer Robert Couldwell takes a look
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ny doubts I might have had about Jersey’s love affair with cars were dispelled half a mile from the airport where there’s the biggest Porsche dealer I’ve ever seen. It does initially seem strange that on a small island with a maximum speed limit of 40mph Porsches, Aston Martins, Bentleys and Mercedes are a common sight. A Mini or Smart would surely make much more sense. But when it comes to cars the heart overrules the head in Jersey, just like elsewhere. They even have an International Festival of Motoring in June each year. I travelled to the island with my wife who isn’t interested in modern cars, but likes
classics and was aware of the many alternative attractions Jersey has to offer. Most motoring events I take her to are on racing circuits like Goodwood, Donington and Silverstone, in the middle of nowhere where her attention span is soon exhausted. The Jersey International Festival of Motoring, on the other hand, is held in the vibrant capital of St Helier, so while I watched sports cars tear up the hill (no 40mph speed limit) or pored over countless fabulous classic cars owned by enthusiastic islanders and Festival visitors, she wandered down to the beach then indulged in some serious retail therapy in St Helier’s attractive shopping centre.
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It all kicks off with a Moonlight Sprint on the seafront, an event that has a unique atmosphere. The displays in the People’s Park take you back to bygone eras with a range of beautifully preserved machinery up to 80 years old. Some are priceless and exotic like long-time resident Paul Robert’s pair of rallywinning Austin Healeys, one of which, URX 727, is the most famous of all having won the 1960 Liège-Rome-Liège rally driven by the late Pat Moss. Navigated by Ann Wisdom, the rally involved 96 hours of near-continuous driving over the worst roads in Europe, in some of the most taxing weather conditions. It’s still regarded as the greatest drive by an allfemale crew in the history of rallying. Others are more prosaic but still evocative like Morris Minors and Oxfords, a Hillman van and a cute little Fiat Topolino as well as wonderful examples of motorcycles through the decades. It’s marvellous to see these pieces of history preserved despite the costs of restoration often exceeding their sale value. As I mentioned earlier, who said that cars make sense? And here’s another reason to visit. The Festival – along with many others in Jersey, including the International Air Display, seasonal Walking Festivals and Christmas-based Fête de Noué – is absolutely free. It doesn’t cost a penny to wander around the cars, motorbikes and karts, or stand very close to the highspeed runs along the seafront, hill climbs and Victoria Park. Take it from me as an old hand in these matters, there’s nothing quite like this Festival on the UK mainland where events are much more corporate with little proper access for the general public, despite horrendous ticket prices. Little wonder that it attracts spectators and competitors from not just the Channel Islands but the UK mainland too. Jersey’s love affair with the car goes back a long way. Outside the busy capital the country roads are quiet and scenic, and along
the island’s north coast (St Helier is in the south) traffic can be blissfully light. We took time out to pay homage to the seriously challenging, wonderfully scenic road at Bouley Bay, used as long ago as 1921 for hill climbs. As we drove down to the sea we found it hard to believe that cars reach 90mph inches away from such large trees. If you are a car or racing enthusiast there are more than 60 events a year on Jersey, most of which are held in areas of stunning scenery like sand racing along the wide, open spaces of St Brelade’s Bay, St Ouen’s Bay and Millbrook in St Aubin’s Bay, all places where the family can relax and play on the beach between the racing. The island also hosts another major motorsport event, the Festival of Speed, with sprints along the front at St Ouen’s and two days’ of hill climbing at another renowned hill, Grève de Lecq. If flowers and vineyards are more your thing, nearby are the enchanting Judith Quérée’s Garden and the award-winning La Mare Wine Estate with its archetypal 18th-century farmhouse, acres of vines and a shop selling products created locally. You can watch karting and motocross at Sorel Point, the island’s most northerly promontory with fantastic views to the Normandy coast, then follow spectacular coastal footpaths. In fact there are miles of fabulous walks all around the coast and in leafy countryside. If you want to cover the ground a little quicker you can take to Jersey’s traffic-calmed Green Lanes (maximum speed 15mph) on extensive cycling routes. You may even spot resident motor racing champion Nigel Mansell and his sons. They are keen cyclists (you may even bump into them at St Helier’s fascinating Mansell Collection, the recently opened visitor centre covering the story of Nigel’s racing career).
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A Silver Shadow from Somerset I stood in awe in front of the most exquisite Rolls Royce, a 1967 Silver Shadow II that looked as new, thanks to just one fastidious owner until 2007 when it was purchased by regular Jersey visitors Pat and Colin Heal. Colin, from Somerset, who first visited Jersey 40 years ago, has been enthusiastically exhibiting at the Festival for the last three years.
Island rescue This 1960s Sunbeam Rapier Mk IV caught my attention, not only due to its immaculate condition but also because I nearly bought one when I was 18 but my father, probably sensibly, wouldn’t guarantee the hire purchase. When Jersey resident Martyn Michel bought the car in Northampton five years ago it wasn’t in great shape. After spending the next 3½ years restoring it to a very high standard it was passed as fit for Jersey registration, a testament to the workmanship.
And make a date in your diary for the NatWest Island Games XVI, a major biennial international sporting event that comes to Jersey in 2015. See overleaf for more details.
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A classic way to enjoy Jersey Hire a classic or vintage car and discover – or rediscover – the joys of motoring. Jersey’s peaceful country lanes and unhurried traffic are perfect for this nostalgic style of motoring. Jersey Classic Hire has an enticing fleet of vehicles, including the famous Austin Healey ‘Frogeye’ Sprite, Triumph TR6, Austin Swallow and endearing Citroen 2CV. Classic VW Campervans are also available. These specialist hire companies are linked to Le Riche, a longestablished classic car restoration and sales business based in Jersey.
www.jerseyclassichire.com www.jerseycamperhire.com www.leriche.com Austin Healey 3000, a 1960s motoring icon
Nigel Mansell with son Leo at The Mansell Collection
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REACHING OUT Broadcaster and journalist Christine Finn takes a look at some of lil’ ole Jersey’s worldwide links
New Jersey Tell them in New Jersey, USA, that you come from ‘Jersey’, and expect a bemused response: ‘You don’t sound like you come from Joisey!’ The American Garden State originated as a gift of land from the English King Charles II to a pair of loyalist friends. One was the Jersey adventurer Sir George Carteret, who renamed New Netherlands after his birthplace. New Jersey’s 350th anniversary last summer saw simultaneous bell ringing in both Jerseys, and new links forged between these unlikely etymological cousins.
HOLLYWOOD CHARLIE CHAPLIN Charlie Chaplin was one of many big-name celebrities who have made a guest appearance at the island’s celebrated Battle of Flowers, held each summer. He came in 1912, when the festival really was a battle: the weeks and weeks of handiwork in creating the flower-festooned floats were pulled apart at the end of the event. They stay intact today as a nod to Jersey’s floral heritage.
PORTUGAL AND MADEIRA Visitors to Jersey expecting to hear French on the streets are often surprised by another language – Portuguese. There are around 10,000 Portuguese speakers on the island. Most originated from Madeira during the booming tourism years of the 1960s to work in hotels and restaurants. Many stayed on, now running their own tourism businesses earmarked by their distinctive cuisine and music. Several speciality shops and colourful annual festivals celebrate the foods and music of both Portugal and Madeira. Try espetadas (grilled meat or fish on a skewer) or bacalhau (salted cod) and take your coffee with a pasteis de nata, or custard tart, in one of the lively Portuguese cafés in St Helier.
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GERMANY German tourists love walking, it’s part of their cultural heritage. And Jersey’s exceptional network of coastal and country paths draws thousands of hikers who love to go a-wandering. The first encounter for some Germans with Jersey was rather different when they served on the Channel Islands during the World War Two Occupation. The first German tourists, drawn back to the island, arrived in the post-war years and have been returning with their families ever since. Latest figures indicate that Jersey now welcomes over 14,000 German visitors each year.
SOUTH AFRICA (VIA AUSTRALIA AND HAWAII) Surfing is hugely popular in Jersey, drawing crowds of surfers and spectators to west-facing St Ouen’s Bay, where the Atlantic crashes in. Way back in 1923, long before California and Beach Boy culture came on the scene, Jerseyman Nigel Oxenden, inspired by what he had seen on his worldwide travels, formed the Island Surf Club, possibly the first in Europe. Archive photos at the Watersplash, a popular hangout for surfers, show those early surfers and their boards. Get the lowdown from a contemporary South African surfer, Chester Mackley at the Watersplash.
UK So what’s the real status of Jersey? Is it British? No, not quite. It’s a ‘Peculiar of the Crown’, so-called because the island declared its allegiance to England, not France, in 1204. Jersey is independent and selfgoverning, with its own parliament, but still loyal to the British crown. That’s what gives Jersey its quirky, unique character, a place close to home and oddly familiar, but also continental. You’ll see French as well as English road signs, might hear a smattering of the old Norman-French language known as Jèrriais, yet also be somewhere that’s reassuringly familiar. A famous British institution, Boots the Chemist, has a foothold here. St Lawrence’s gorgeous Glass Church, an architectural gem with a 1930s interior designed by the celebrated French glassmaker René Lalique, was commissioned by islander Florence Boot, the widow of Jesse Boot and heir to the chemist shop empire
FRANCE The exiled French writer Victor Hugo lived on Guernsey and, between 1852 and 1855, Jersey, where he wrote parts of his classic historical novel, Les Misérables. He was especially fascinated by Jersey’s prehistory – the mysterious standing stones, menhirs and dolmens scattered across the island. He penned part of a poem, Les Contemplations, as a response to time spent at Faldouet, a haunting dolmen in the east of the island. He also loved Mont Orgueil Castle. Discover why by joining enthusiast and official Blue Badge guide Pete Webb on a tour of Hugo’s Jersey.
book online at www.jersey.com
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GREEN LANE CHALLENGE Rosie Fuller is an adventurous kind of person. She has to be. She’s the editor of Adventure Travel magazine. So would Jersey be a soft touch after trekking in the Alps and Andes? Not really, as she found out on navigating the island’s Green Lanes with her cousin Richard Norris for company
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omething tells me that conquering the Green Lanes is going to be tougher than we’d thought,’ says cousin Richard. We’ve accepted a challenge to cycle and walk all 45 miles of these mostly traffic-free roads that are dotted around Jersey. And it’s the map reading, rather than the physical effort, that’s proving the biggest test. Jersey’s first Green Lanes opened in 1994. Voluntary police constable Mac Pollard came up with the idea, suggesting that many of the island’s smaller, prettier, lesser-used roads should be given a speed limit of 15mph, with cyclists, walkers and horse riders getting priority over motorised vehicles. The idea took a few years to catch on, but when it did it became a big success. Green Lanes were introduced to all but two of Jersey’s 12 parishes, and the concept won a major award from the British Guild of Travel Writers for a tourism project that benefits the environment.
For the first day of our challenge, we enlist the help of Jersey local Arthur Lamy. He has been a walking and cycling guide for 20 years, and before that he ran a bike shop on the island, so we reckon he’s the man to get us off to a good start. At 62 Arthur is nearly twice my age, and more than twice as sprightly. Rumour is that he puts weights in his panniers to give himself more of a workout when he has slower clients. I don’t dare ask if this includes us…
But getting around all of them in three days? They are spread out all over the island like a giant crazy maze – this was going to be tough.
Rosie fuller
Rosie and Richard with guide Arthur Lamy
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Even the locals sometimes get lost
Going green on foot
Arthur has planned a circular route in the north-west of the island and he takes the mission extremely seriously, with a milometer that he turns on and off whenever we start and finish a Green Lane. It’s worrying that even he occasionally needs to stop and check the map – there are so many little roads it’s hard to know which is which – but after a few hours of cycling we’ve nailed about 22 Green Lane miles. And the quiet countryside and super views are just a taste of what’s to come. There’s more local advice from Victoria Barrett, who runs the bike-friendly Village B&B where we’re staying. ‘My best tip for exploring by bike is to choose a side of the island to visit each day and stick to it,’ she says. She explains that there are five valleys running north to south down Jersey, so if you cycle from east to west this can mean a lot of uphill.
We have a quick look at the spectacular Mont Orgueil Castle at Gorey (it’s an island must-visit) before heading north (via more Green Lanes) for lunch at The Hungry Man café at Rozel Harbour. The coastline is stunning. Jersey is just 13 miles from France, so on a clear day you can see across to Normandy, as well as catching glimpses of the other Channel Islands of Sark, Herm, Guernsey and Alderney. But as someone who loves the sea, I’m surprised that I’m happier when we get back to exploring inland.
The Village B&B, located in the centre of the island, is an ideal base for our mission, and as well as being full of useful advice, Victoria offers to lend us lights and rain covers for the bikes should we need them.
Despite Jersey being an island of car-lovers, we barely see any traffic on either the Green Lanes or designated cycle routes. And life inland is much calmer than the hustle and bustle of the coast. There’s no pressure to do anything fast and, as Richard points out, it doesn’t matter if you take a ‘wrong’ turn, because you’re unlikely to end up on a busy road, so it just adds to the adventure.
Taking her advice on our first day without Arthur as a safety net, Richard and I venture north-east. The Green Lanes aren’t all connected, but there are 10 cycle routes across the island that lead us to most of them, all clearly shown on a free map from Jersey Tourism. We take Cycle Route 3 from just outside the B&B before joining Route 5, much of which is also a designated Green Lane, then stringing together more Green Lanes to reach the coast.
The scenery inland is delightful too. We ride past fields of Jersey cows – one of the prettiest breeds of cattle – watching us unfazed with big brown eyes. We come across tiny stalls selling homegrown produce – potatoes, strawberries, eggs, courgettes – where you simply leave a donation in an honesty box. There are lots of churches and all sorts of houses, from plush mansions to quaint cottages and pink stone farmhouses. We agree that we could happily live in most of them.
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Most of the Green Lanes are tarmac but a few are footpaths or tracks, still easily navigable by bike. We do find one exception – a steep series of steps that are difficult even to push the bikes down. It is clearly signposted that you shouldn’t take bikes this way in the first place, but we’re dedicated to the challenge so we go anyway. Well, that and we’re too lazy to turn round. The Green Lanes and cycle routes also lead to some of Jersey’s top attractions. We ride past the Eric Young Orchid Foundation, which looks interesting, but we’re more animal than plant lovers so we head to Durrell Wildlife Park. This is an opportunity to see fascinating rare creatures – gorillas, monkeys, bears, snakes and more – but it’s not just an average zoo. The park is all about conservation, helping endangered species recover and training animal enthusiasts from around the world. And although we haven’t been as productive as we were with the intrepid Arthur, by the end of the day we’ve ticked off at least another 10 Green Lane miles.
‘WE BARELY SEE ANY TRAFFIC ON THE GREEN LANES OR DESIGNATED CYCLE ROUTES’ The port of St Aubin in the south-west hides a few of our coveted lanes, and these are our aim the following morning. Jersey had looked flat from the plane, and we’ve been following Victoria’s advice carefully, but there are still some seriously steep hills, especially from the seat of a bicycle. I’m a masochistic cyclist so I enjoy them. Richard isn’t so keen. Luckily I have the perfect attraction to bribe him with that afternoon.
RICHARD’S RIDE Having visited a number of the Channel Islands before I was keen to see what Jersey offered and to find its hidden gems. That didn’t take long, as the Green Lanes are clearly one of them. They provided a peaceful and relaxed way to get around and explore the real Jersey, and although they’re certainly not direct, that really doesn’t matter when you’re on holiday. I was expecting muddy tracks, but the majority of the lanes are good-quality roads. I was taken by just how quiet they are, and the distinct lack of cars. Due to the sheer number of Green Lanes, they are a little hard to navigate, and at points I wished I had a map reading degree. But getting lost added to the sense of adventure, and there always seemed to be a friendly local just around the corner who was keen to help – whether we were lost or not. I was also struck by the excellent, well-signposted cycle routes, which proved a useful addition to the Green Lanes in getting around. My highlight was the stunning views while cycling along the north coast – Sark, Herm, Guernsey, Brecqhou and mainland France on the horizon looked spectacular. Richard Norris
‘These are the most southerly vineyards in the British Isles,’ says Darren Stower from La Mare Wine Estate. We’ve conveniently found a few Green Lanes that we just have to conquer in the direction of La Mare, an immaculately laid out vineyard that not only produces wine, but cider, liqueurs, chocolate, jams and mustards too. They also make Jersey’s famous Black Butter – a unique and curious spread that’s a blend of apples, spices and liquorice. It’s better than marmalade for breakfast. What’s more, I discover that Black Butter fudge is delicious and as effective as any energy gel as I sweep round a few more roads that evening, perhaps just a little merry from the wine tasting. The perfect weather doesn’t last until our final day, but it doesn’t matter as we’d planned a morning of walking anyway. It’s nice seeing the scenery at an even slower pace, and it makes route finding easier. Drying off with a cup of tea and studying the map in a café before our flight home, we have to accept that there are a few stray Green Lanes we haven’t quite managed to conquer. But we have done at least 90% of them. And that deserves another square of Black Butter fudge…
See overleaf for more on cycling and walking in Jersey.
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book online at www.jersey.com
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JERSEYFILE
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Green for go
Two feet and two wheels… they’re the best way to explore Jersey. We’re an exceedingly walking- and cyclingfriendly island, with a maze of dedicated cycplepaths, waymarked walks and Green Lanes in which to get lost – in the nicest possible way, of course. Our coastal footpaths are world class. Head inland and you’ll discover hidden valleys and woodlands where time seems to stand still.
On the previous pages Rosie Fuller explored our Green Lanes on foot and by bike. She stayed at The Village B&B, where there’s always a big welcome – and lots of local information – for walkers and cyclists. The Village B&B La Grande Route de St Laurent, St Lawrence, Jersey JE3 1NJ T 01534 862262 www.villagejersey.co.uk She was accompanied on her first day by Blue Badge Guide Arthur Lamy. T 01534 853525 www.arthurthebluebadgeguide.com
The wheel thing 96-mile across-island network of routes to follow with clear waymarking, and a good supply of cycle shops and hire facilities. We’ve linked up with other favourite cycling destinations too. The Cycle West scheme shares over 700 miles of joined-up leisure cycling between Jersey, southern England and northern France (www.tourdemanche.com).
Cycling in Jersey isn’t just for MAMILs (Middle-Aged Men In Lycra, if you haven’t guessed). You can bring your latest gofaster carbon fibre road bike if you want (and we’ll point you to some pretty steep hills). But cycling here is largely laid back and very scenic. Our roads are mostly quiet, especially the peaceful Green Lanes and traffic-free cyclepaths. There’s also a
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What’s your walking style? Laid back and relaxed? Enthusiastic and vigorous? Do you like beaches and headlands? Or are you more of a country lover? It might be hard to believe, but Jersey answers all those walking questions. More and more visitors are discovering our
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coastal paths and Green Lanes in an island blessed with a mild, sunny climate, great natural beauty and bountiful wildlife. So pack your walking boots – and don’t forget the binoculars. www.jersey.com/walking
We go out of our way to make it easy for you: 3 See our website for details of suggested routes: www.jersey.com/walking 3 Get a copy of our handy free walking guide – it’s packed full of ideas. 3 Join one of our many regular guided walks. We’re famous for them – again, see the website. 3 Park the car – or don’t bring one. Walkers find it easy to explore the island with the help of our excellent, go-everywhere bus service.
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Best foot forward – some top walking tips
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For all the latest… twitter.com/jerseytourism
youtube.com/jerseytourism
facebook.com/visitjersey
flickr.com/jerseytourism
Waymarkers Here are 10 ways to go walking in Jersey (there are lots more).
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Get yourself a guide. We’re proud of our programme of guided walks. In season, there are leisurely walks almost every day of the week with experienced Blue Badge guides covering everything from wildlife to World War Two sites, local customs to maritime history. From May to December we also run ‘After Dark’ walks that delve into the island’s nooks, crannies and spooky happenings.
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Go for our Green Lanes. The network of around 50 miles of calm, walkerfriendly Green Lanes is a famous feature of the island – not to mention yet more paths around our beautiful woodlands, valleys and scenic reservoirs.
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See the sea on a classic coast path. Head for our rocky, rugged north coast. It’s wild and beautiful, dotted with timeless little bays where you can stop off for a paddle or a sandwich. And if you want more – which you will – follow parts of the Channel Islands Way, an inspirational 110-mile walking route, bringing together all the best coastal walks in Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm. The Channel Islands Way guide has full details (£9.95, available from retailers across the Channel Islands and via www.amazon.co.uk).
Contact the experts
For full details of walking guides and operators in Jersey – who they are, what they offer – go to: www.jersey.com/walking
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Discover an Ice Age island. Jersey Heritage’s new Ice Age Walks guide features three trails at key locations. It’s available free at Jersey Heritage visitor sites, hotels and guesthouses and from Jersey Tourism. Or you can download it from www.jerseyheritage.org/IceAgeIsland, where you can also watch short animated videos on the subject. ‘Step Out’ with the National Trust for Jersey. The Trust’s yearlong programme of free guided walks (usually lasting around two hours) celebrates the island’s heritage and environment. Everyone is welcome. For more details: T 01534 483193, www.nationaltrust.je
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Walk with wellies. Swap your boots for wellies or old trainers and take a ‘moonwalk’. The island’s massive tidal reach – one of the world’s highest – means that the rocks, reefs and gullies along our south-eastern shores reveal themselves daily as a strange ‘moonscape’. Always go with a guide, though – the tides can be treacherous.
Follow a salty trail, then quench your thirst. The Maritime Trail around St Helier’s harbour takes you to all kinds of salty, seafaring places. For the perfect antidote, our ‘ale trails’ feature great walking from some of Liberation the island’s finest pubs, put together Ale in partnership with the local Liberation Ales group. All is revealed in the free Maritime Trail and Walking Routes to Build a Thirst guides available to download from www.jersey.com/walking. Become a festival-goer. Make a date with our Spring and Autumn Walking Festivals (see events pages 32–33), with their routes for all abilities and ages. Themes for each walk change every year and might include walks for foodies, birdwatchers, history lovers and single people.
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Walk ’n’ bus. Our comprehensive bus service covers all corners of the island, and it runs in a way that allows you to hop on and hop off with ease. Pick up a timetable, pack a picnic and get an unlimited-travel ticket from LibertyBus.
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Go in search of wildlife.You won’t have to look far. Red squirrels still thrive in our woods, and the island is a stopping-off place for many migratory birds. Keep an eye open for the rare agile frog (not found anywhere else in Britain). You’ll have no problem spotting our most famous animal residents – goldenflanked Jersey cows.
Walk JERSEY Our walking guide, free from Jersey Tourism, tells you why the island is such a great fresh-air, feet-first destination. Lots of other walking guides and maps are also available.
Booking made easy Holidays and short breaks in Jersey are easy to arrange. Flights and ferry crossings are short, you’re dealing in pounds, not euros, and booking is swift and straightforward. Hotels and operators are listed in the back of this publication. Book direct with them or use the free accommodation service for advice and booking on 01534 448888. Or book online at www.jersey.com
book online at www.jersey.com
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the
WILD ONE The One Show wildlife expert and naturalist Mike Dilger goes in search of rare birds, sheep that look like goats and a beach fit for a toddler
M
y trips to Jersey have been like buses. You wait for ages for one to come along (in my case 46 years) and then another one quickly follows. Quite why I never managed to visit until last year is a mystery, but all I can now say is, better late than never. In spring 2014 I finally managed to break my ‘Channel Islands’ duck’ when lucky enough to come over to film the island’s green lizards for BBC’s The One Show with Jersey man and reptile expert Chris Perkins. Green lizards are the ultimate sun seekers, rarely coming out to play during inclement weather, so knowing we only had a couple of days on the island in which to film them meant the trip was a bit of a gamble. We needn’t have worried. Two memorably warm days meant we were able to film stunning footage of both males and females at their stronghold along the L’Oeillere Headland above St Ouen’s Bay. Being a species right at the edge of its range, Jersey is the only natural outpost for this brightly coloured and dapper lizard in the entire British Isles. The green and black speckled males looked particularly fine in all their breeding regalia, but the colour that caught my eye most was that of their blue throats, which seemed a mirror image of the skies above as they took in the sun’s warming rays. With only a small part of the island visited during our all-too-brief filming trip – nothing more than
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MIKE DILGER a tantalising glimpse of the island’s rich wildlife, really – I boarded the plane realising I had unfinished business on Jersey. Full of tales, on my return home, of blue skies and golden beaches, my partner Christina did not need much persuading to accompany me back there for a short break with our 16-month-old son Zachary a couple of months later. Being primarily a birder, the place I was keenest to visit was St Ouen’s Pond. It lies on the west coast, the largest area of freshwater on the island and next door to Jersey’s longest beach where the surf pounds in directly from the Atlantic. The pond, a nature reserve cared for by the National Trust for Jersey, represents a huge magnet for those birds that prefer it ‘wet’. And thanks to a brand-new visitor centre, a subtle piece of architecture that blends in so well with the dunes and reed-beds that you have to look twice to see it, there are now enhanced views across the pond.
Illustrations courtesy of the National Trust for Jersey
My expert local guide Mike Stentiford (the Trust’s former President) and I soon caught sight of the unmistakable yellow head and shoulders of a female marsh harrier as she imperiously drifted across the reed-bed behind the pond. Now breeding at St Ouen’s, this magnificent and very specialised bird of prey was a reaffirmation in my own mind that this wetland was now firmly established in the Premier League of Jersey’s ‘natural’ attractions.
Inside the new Wetland Centre
After an able supporting cast of herons, egrets, coots and lapwings had also made an appearance, we took in one of the trails on offer through the wonderful mosaic of fen and wet meadow encircling the main body of water. In no time we were suddenly surrounded by a riot of colour, from the greens of the sedges and rushes to the yellows of the flag irises and purples of the loosestrife. Making the moment even more special were the legions of sand martins that whizzed past us as they ferried mouthfuls of insects to their expectant chicks in a nearby sandbank. Keen to ensure that the reptile fraternity was well catered for, the Trust had placed a number of roofingfelt mats amongst the vegetation, under which snakes and lizards could warm up out of sight of eagle-eyed predators. Looking under these ‘reptile’ mats is often a game of lucky (or unlucky) dip. Imagine then my surprise on finding a slow-worm under the very first mat we lifted, followed by a grass snake under the second.
‘the island’s bountiful natural assets came as a real surprise’ St Ouen’s Pond, a haven for wildlife
book online at www.jersey.com
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‘Jersey’s north coast also offers that seductive combination of invigorating exercise interspersed with sensational vistas’
The Wetland Centre
Whilst Christina had kindly given me a child-free birding pass for a few hours at St Ouen’s, back at our hotel our son had already developed cabin fever, so after picking them up we drove to the north of the island in search of sand and sea. One of the staff at the hotel had waxed lyrical about the coastal credentials of Grève de Lecq. Arriving at the impossibly picturesque sandy beach nestled between two large granite headlands, we immediately saw what all the fuss was about. Toddlers can be notoriously difficult to keep entertained, but for our son the beach was an instant hit as we sat with cappuccinos in deck-chairs whilst watching him, sans socks and shoes, spend the next two hours alternating his activities between digging for victory and dipping his toes in the Channel. As relatively recent parents, our version of ‘happiness’ has been redefined to that of ‘if Zachary’s happy then we’re happy’; I can therefore confirm both parents spent a very pleasurable afternoon as our son giggled away while acquainting himself with the combined pleasures of the sun on his face and sand between his toes. Christina and Zachary were keen to revisit the beach so the next day I dropped them off there on my way to explore the wild delights of the Mourier Valley a few miles to the east. With Ranger Jon Parkes as my guide, we set off along the coastal path in search of a recent and exciting addition to Jersey’s bird list. Reminiscent of Cornwall’s rugged cliff walks, the paths on Jersey’s north coast also offer that seductive combination of invigorating exercise interspersed with sensational vistas. I was reminded of this on a rocky promontory a mere 10 minutes into our walk, from which Jon pointed out the commanding views of Guernsey and Sark away to the north.
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But this was not just a route for those with a penchant purely for panoramic vistas, as down at our feet I spotted thrift and rock samphire amongst a marvellous suite of coastal flowers jostling for position on the cliff edges. With my head peering down at the ground in order to fully appreciate this very natural ‘Battle of Flowers’, I suddenly heard the unmistakably nasal ‘ky-eow ky-eow!’ call behind me. Spinning around, I had barely spluttered out the bird’s name before catching sight of a small party of choughs playing on the breezy updraught created by the onshore wind funnelling up the cliff-face. Reintroduced back to Jersey in 2013 after an absence of around a century, the chough is immediately recognisable by its sociable nature, glossy black plumage and blood-red dagger-like bill. Landing just in front of us, I watched with wonder as they wielded their formidable bills like ice picks while unearthing any juicy invertebrates just below the surface. Having already settled comfortably in their new home, Jersey now waits with baited breath for their first breeding attempt in 2015.
Arboretum walk
See overleaf for more on Jersey’s wildlife and green spaces.
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Mike and Jon on the north coast path
If choughs are to continue flourishing in Jersey, the key to their success will be to keep the more aggressive and domineering plant species in check so that the birds can feed properly. I was introduced to the Trust’s secret weapon in the fight against advancing bracken and gorse further down the path: Manx Loaghtan sheep. Looking more like goats as they ambled past us, I was struck by how well-suited these multi-horned, sure-footed beasts were to the rugged terrain. The Trust’s hope is, through their nibbling and stomping, this tough breed will continue to open up more coastal heath, giving choughs a wider array of feeding areas. So in essence their presence on the north coast was, for me, one of those double hits – an incredibly useful conservation tool and a delightful addition to the walk. We had a busy few days in Jersey. The island’s bountiful natural assets came as a real surprise, embracing as they do both coast and country. Another highlight was a walk through the verdant Val de Mare Arboretum, Jersey’s ‘Forgotten Forest’, with specimen trees from every corner of the globe including Australia, America and Japan, all beautifully laid in their geographical zones. Another island gem was the wonderfully fragrant Lavender Farm, a picturesque working farm that
Chough ©Andrew
Kelly Photography
Manx Loaghtan sheep
shows the entire lavender production from growing through to the manufacture of various products. Back home in England, even though I felt far better acquainted with this enchanting island second time around, compiling a list of reasons for a third visit was easy. On this trip we had been too early in the year for the agile frog (Jersey being the only place in the British Isles where this long-legged creature can be found), too late for the Jersey orchid (another island speciality) and just plain unlucky in not catching up with the short-toed treecreeper, a bird of the trees. At least three reasons then. Oh, make that four. I should have added Grève de Lecq.
book online at www.jersey.com The two Mikes – Dilger and Stentiford
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Going green comes naturally in Jersey. After all, we’ve been doing it for long enough. We were the first holiday destination in the world to be awarded Green Globe destination status in recognition of our environmentally friendly work with schemes such as coastal footpaths, cycle tracks and the Green Lane network. And thanks to our first-class bus service and the nature of the island, Jersey is easy to explore without a car. When you’re out and about, call into our gorgeous gardens – Jersey’s mild climate, long hours of sunshine and rich soils give it the greenest of green fingers.
Watching the wildlife Mike Dilger got close to nature and Jersey’s abundant wildlife, as you can see from his article on the previous pages. He stayed in a central location at the very comfy: La Place Country Hotel, Route du Coin, La Haule, St Brelade, Jersey JE3 8BT T 01534 744261 www.hotellaplacejersey.com
Jersey’s Island Plan established a Coastal National Park on the west, north, east and some of the south coasts. In the west, this includes the dunes and wildlife surrounding St Ouen’s Pond, the island’s largest area of natural freshwater. The island’s shallow coastal waters are clean and amongst the healthiest in the British Isles. No wonder our oysters taste so good. We also have four protected wetlands of international importance recognised by the worldwide Ramsar Convention – a large stretch of the south-eastern coast and three offshore islets.
Jersey, naturally
For nature as nature intended there’s an abundance of wild, untouched spaces cared for by the National Trust for Jersey and protected as Sites of Special Interest, rich in natural beauty and wildlife (www. nationaltrust.je).
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Watching the wildlife
A green maze
Wildlife likes Jersey – and we all like to watch it. Keep an eye open for rare Jersey orchids at Le Noir Pré and St Ouen, bottlenose dolphins in the sea and red squirrels in the woods.
SUNSHINE HOURS A DAY
Green – and blue – island
Temperate climate for lizard spotting
Our Green Lanes are the envy of other destinations. We have lots of them – inland Jersey is latticed with a green maze of around 50 miles of traffic-calmed lanes (vehicle speeds are restricted to a lazy 15mph) which welcome walkers, cyclists and horse riders. Enjoy.
24°C
8 Hours
21°C Warm autumns
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC Happy orchids
Warm and sunny
0°C
Spring arrives early in Jersey – you’ll often see flowers here long before they blossom at home. And with warmth lingering on into the autumn months our fabulous floral tapestry helps stretch the feel of summer.
TEMP °C
THE COLOUR GREEN
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The ‘Forgotten Forest’
It’s worth seeking out Val de la Mare (it’s close to the aMaizin! Adventure Park in St Peter). This tranquil arboretum, founded in 1975, has 12 distinct zones and over 300 specimens, including a giant redwood (www.jerseytreesforlife.org).
Park it
We’re blessed with a wealth of public parks. After a busy day shopping or sightseeing in St Helier it’s easy to escape to tranquil green spaces like Howard Davis Park and People’s Park.
The freedom of Jersey with LibertyBUS The unlimited-travel LibertyBus pass is the green way to go. It’s great value too. Individual and family passes, available for one, two, three and seven days, take you to almost everywhere on the island, including all the main tourist and visitor attractions. And the entire fleet has easy access for wheelchair users. For details contact our Visitor Centre (T 01534 448877) or LibertyBus, T 01534 828555, www.libertybus.je Coach tours are also popular. Half-day, evening and whole day island tours are available, taking in local attractions, gardens and beauty spots. A courtesy
Lavender, wildlife and wine
Genuine Jersey
Green also translates into thinking local. Island produce comes to the fore with Genuine Jersey, a scheme set up to promote produce and products with local provenance and minuscule food miles. www.genuinejersey.com
Green and keen
You’ll find lots of green-fingered gardeners in Jersey. One of our best known is Judith Quérée. The star of many gardening programmes and articles, Judith Quérée’s Garden is a magical collection of over 2,000 mainly herbaceous perennials from all over the world.
The working – but very fragrant – Jersey Lavender Farm is devoted to the growing, harvesting, distillation and drying of this soothing plant, which is in bloom from late May to early September. You can see the entire process on site. Don’t come to Durrell Wildlife Park just for the animals. Its extensive 32-acre/13ha grounds and water features are beautiful too, and there’s a fascinating organic garden that provides food for the animals. In the same vein, La Mare Wine Estate offers more than wines. Enjoy them by all means, but also savour the vineyard’s lovely setting in the large grounds of a traditional 17th-century Jersey granite farmhouse (you can take tours of the vineyard, winery and distillery).
Open up
You can also go behind the gates of some of the very best private gardens in Jersey, rarely accessible to the public. All proceeds raised are donated to charity. For dates, times and further details of Open Gardens 2015 go to www.jersey.com (T 01534 448877).
Floral events
It’s only natural that we like to flaunt our floral finery at events like June in Bloom, featuring garden visits, walks and talks, not to mention our famous Battle of Flowers in August. For more details see the festivals and events listing on pages 32–33.
At home… and around the world
The imaginative botanic gardens at Samarès Manor, created in the late 1920s, go far afield for their inspiration. They boast hundreds of varieties of plants from around the world, along with Japanese and water gardens, outstanding walled herb, rose and lavender gardens and fascinating ‘Discovery Gardens’ laid out on different themes (prairie, coastal, etc). Neither do you have to travel to far-flung places to see one of the world’s finest collections of orchids. The Eric Young Orchid Foundation has a scented, exotic recreation of orchid habitats and landscapes, along with climate-controlled nurseries.
service operates from many hotels and pick-up points to connect with most tour departures. For more information please contact: Jersey Tours T 01534 863624 www.jerseybustours.com Signature Executive Transport T 07797 789123 www.signature.je Tantivy Blue Coach Tours T 01534 706706 www.tantivybluecoach.com Waverley Coaches T 01534 758360 www.waverleycoaches.co.uk
For the record Durrell Wildlife Park, Trinity Open all year. T 01534 860000 www.durrell.org Eric Young Orchid Foundation, Trinity Open all year Wednesday–Saturday. T 01534 861963 www.ericyoungorchidfoundation.co.uk Jersey Lavender Farm, St Brelade Open Tuesday–Sunday, April–September (café and shop open for a longer period). T 01534 742933 www.jerseylavender.co.uk Judith Quérée’s Garden, St Ouen Open by appointment May–end September. Ask about the guided tours. T 01534 482191 www.judithqueree.com La Mare Wine Estate, St Mary Open March–October. T 01534 481178 www.lamarewineestate.com National Trust for Jersey Wetland Centre, St Ouen Open all year. T 01534 483193 www.nationaltrust.je Samarès Manor, St Clement Open daily April–October. T 01534 870551 www.samaresmanor.com
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Game On NatWest Island Games XV1, 27 June–3 July www.jersey2015.com In 2015, the Island Games come to Jersey. This exciting sporting event has a worldwide reach, attracting competitors from as far afield as the Falkland Islands and St Helena. The games are not just a great sporting occasion. They’re the basis of a unique festival that brings together islanders from all over the world to share friendships and experiences.
The numbers game
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1985
different sports make up the programme:
First Island Games were held in the Isle of Man.
700 competitors participated in seven different sports.
15 700
islands took part.
2015 16th Island Games to be held in Jersey.
Over 4,000 competitors and team officials will take part.
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AHu3 Archery, Athletics, Badminton, Basketball, Cycling, Football, Golf, Sailing/Windsurfing, Shooting, Swimming, Table Tennis, Tennis, Triathlon, Volleyball/Beach Volleyball
24 islands will be represented:
Åland Island, Alderney, Bermuda, Cayman Islands, Falkland Islands, Faroe Islands, Froya, Gibraltar, Gotland, Greenland, Guernsey, Hitra, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, Jersey, Menorca, Orkney, Rhodes, Saaremaa, Sark, Shetland Islands, St Helena, Western Isles, Isle of Anglesey/Ynys Môn.
32 sporting venues are scattered across the island.
At the heart of it all will be the Games Village at Howard Davis Park in St Helier, venue for the opening and closing ceremonies and other entertainments.
For more personal thoughts on the Games see overleaf.
A personal view Here’s what the NatWest Island Games mean to people in Jersey.
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It’s Jersey’s ‘time to shine’, says Steve Bailey venues, so there’s a lot to watch. And Jersey itself has much to offer. We enjoy a great climate, so getting out and about is not a chore. No visit to Jersey is complete without a trip to Durrell Wildlife Park, home of many endangered species – we have adopted ‘Indigo’, the lowland baby gorilla, as the Games mascot. I can recommend Mont Orgueil, the famous castle at Gorey, as a spectacular viewing point for the cycling road race.
What’s your involvement with the Games? I’m the Games Director with overall responsibility for delivering the Games. I’m working with a hand-picked team of business professionals who make up the Organising Committee. What are you most looking forward to? The Opening Ceremony because it will mean that after two years of planning and preparation Jersey has reached its moment ‘to shine’ – there’s no going back. I’m also looking forward to welcoming the entire Games ‘family’ to Jersey and seeing them achieve their individual sporting goals. Is it just about sport? Sport, of course, is the main reason. That said, I believe that the Games mean much more. They are held every two years and bring a close family together, old friendships are revisited, new ones begin. The NatWest Island Games are known affectionately as the ‘friendly games’ for a good reason. Everyone just keeps coming back; surely that says it all? What’s the attraction for spectators? Why come to Jersey to watch the Games? Sporting events will be taking place at 32 different
Why is Jersey such a sporty island? We punch above our weight when it comes to sport. Everyone seems to have an outdoor interest. No matter what sport you care to mention you’ll probably find a club that caters for it. I suppose the adage ‘work hard, play hard’ is true of Jersey. What’s your sporting passion? I have always enjoyed sport. I’ve played most of them – swimming, football and cricket, and I enjoy a round of golf. My main passion is fishing, though I don’t know if you could call it a sport as such. I just can’t get enough of it, and living in Jersey is about as good as it gets. You can fish all year, though May and June are my favourites when black bream move into the area. They are great sports fish and taste lovely when barbecued and served up with Jersey Royals and a green salad. What do the Games mean to you? As Games Director I feel the island has put its trust in me to showcase Jersey at its very best – our goal, ‘a time to shine’, has been adopted as part of the title. I want to make the NatWest Island Games special for everyone who will compete and for them to take away happy memories of Jersey. But the greatest legacy I’d like to leave is to see increased participation in all sports across all age groups in Jersey.
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Windsurfer and former Island Games competitor Justin Horton believes that sport can inspire young people What’s the attraction for spectators? Why come to Jersey to watch the Games? If you like sport, then you’ll love our very sporty island. St Aubin’s Bay is a great natural arena for windsurfing and sailing. I’d recommend you watch the competition from any spot around this big bay.
What’s your involvement with the Games? Race Management for the Island Games windsurfing competition. This entails ensuring the safety and enjoyment of the competitors in a windy setting with courses that are challenging and set accurately. What are you most looking forward to? Seeing St Aubin’s Bay full of sails in a moderate breeze, and competitors who are happy with the length and style of the course. Is it just about sport? No, it’s about progression through sport and developing as an individual. The inclusion of younger competitors is crucial – they are our future. The Island Games gives them the platform to compete internationally, and to a high level.
Why is Jersey such a sporty island? There are so many sports to choose from, all on our doorstep and made accessible through community funding. What’s your sporting passion? For me it has to be windsurfing and sailing. We have some superb conditions for both sports, and with Jersey being situated in the middle of the Gulf of Mont St Michel we’re fortunate to have slightly warmer waters, plus sheltered conditions that enable us to sail all year round. What do the Games mean to you? Bringing younger people closer to sport. Getting together as a community of islands also means that competitors can participate at a high level and push their limits.
Keen swimmer Clare Germain is a ‘Games Maker’ What’s your involvement with the Games? I’m part of the organising committee. Just like the London Olympics we’re having volunteer ‘Games Makers’ to help out with visitors and athletes. I’m co-ordinating the programme with my colleague Cliff Chipperfield. What are you most looking forward to? Watching all the hard work come together to deliver a great sporting and social event. Meeting the competitors and visitors, but most of all working with a hugely dedicated and enthusiastic team of volunteers.
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Is it just about sport? No, it’s much more than that. As well as the sporting element it’s also about community,
environment, building relationships, creating new experiences, team work and showcasing what Jersey has to offer. What’s the attraction for spectators? Why come to Jersey to watch the Games? The calibre of the athletes taking part will be inspirational. Also, to watch sports that perhaps you’ve never considered before and just to be part of this big event. It’s also the perfect opportunity to see what the island of Jersey has to offer. Why is Jersey such a sporty island? We have so many opportunities, on land and water, plus excellent facilities and coaches in all sporting areas. The hardest decision is choosing what to do and fitting everything in.
Former Island Games competitor Andrew Hamon is now a Team Manager What’s the attraction for spectators? Why come to Jersey to watch the Games? For many it might be the first time they have watched a multi-sport event live. There’s a huge amount going on. I’ve been to a number of Games and can personally vouch for the great atmosphere and good competition. What’s your involvement with the Games? I’m Manager of the Jersey Cycling Team. For the Games we’ll have a full team of 16 cyclists ranged between 17 and 44 years old, competing in road and mountain biking events. What are you most looking forward to? Being part of a team. Participating in the Opening Ceremony is a great feeling, especially in front of a home crowd. And, of course, I’m also looking forward to the competition, especially the road criterium which will be held in the centre of St Helier. It’s going to be exciting and very spectator friendly. Is it just about sport? Sport plays a big part in it, obviously. It’s also about representing your island and being part of a team
Why is Jersey such a sporty island? Just like the Games, we have a wide range of sports. We also have good facilities – and a sunny climate which encourages us to make the most of our great outdoors. What’s your sporting passion? I have been involved in cycling for 25 years. It’s a great sport. It can be individual – for example in a time trial when the rider is against the clock – or it could be a road race where team tactics can play a vital part in the outcome. What do the Games mean to you? The Games have been an important part of my life, first as a competitor and latterly a Team Manager, for 20 years, beginning when I first competed in Gibraltar.
What’s your sporting passion? My sporting passions have changed over the years. I used to play hockey and touch rugby and have represented the island in both sports. I’m now an open water sea swimmer, something that I never thought I’d be! And I’ve recently taken up long-distance running. I also coach the Under 7’s squad at Jersey Rugby Football Club academy. What do the Games mean to you? They represent dedication and commitment, and being proud of where we live and what we have to offer.
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the
fall girl
With autumn’s blaze of colours along comes cider, Michelin dining for £20 and the start of the oyster season. Alicia Miller, former Deputy Editor of Food and Travel magazine and now the assistant editor of the sunday times travel magazine, helps herself to Jersey’s bountiful larder
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I
had been to the island before, and my overwhelming memory was this: crab sandwiches. It sounds simple, but if you’ve ever had one here you’ll know that they’re a cut above. Sandwiches made from sweet flakes of local brown crab, coddled between fluffy slices of brown bread, the interiors gleaming marigold yellow with thick coats of Jersey butter. Sandwiches devoured on a sun-soaked bench perched above the gently curving Jersey coastline; ones savoured while gazing over stone-flecked beaches and the Channel’s shifting shades of blue. Those absolutely perfect sandwiches, that when washed down with mugfuls of builder’s tea, make for an inimitable experience bought for just a few quid. This is what I remembered and now, on my return, couldn’t wait to experience again. But as we settle into our corner table at Shaun Rankin’s Ormer restaurant in St Helier, it swiftly becomes apparent that this is not the Channel Islands as I remember them. ‘Did you know,’ begins our guide, ‘that within just 45 square miles we have four Michelin-star restaurants? Ormer won its star just three months after opening’ she continues, as an aromatic riesling cascades into our glasses. No crab sandwiches here then. But Rankin, who is unofficial ambassador for the Jersey food scene, makes it his mission to showcase all the fine produce his little island has to offer. The fact that his restaurant is named after Jersey’s particular aquatic delicacy – so precious it can only be harvested October to April in the first days of a full moon – sums it all up.
Alicia Miller Rankin’s kitchen thoroughly spoils us. Delicate nuggets of crab in a creamy courgette-flecked risotto; juicy cod with curried raisins and cauliflower, offset by a crunch of apple – we coast from course to course, ending with a perfect pineapple soufflé with coconut sorbet. The quality of the produce is immense; servers practically have to wrestle the Jersey butter dish from me at meal’s end. And that weighty moment at a Michelin-starred restaurant when it comes time to flip over the bill, it’s practically painless – our threecourse meals cost just £20 each. Ormer is taking part in the island-wide Tennerfest that runs for six weeks each autumn. At this time you can eat your way across the island for prices that would make Londoners weep, starting, as the name implies, at just £10. Later we would have nothing short of an elegant five courses at our hotel, the Somerville, overlooking St Aubin’s Bay, for another £20.
Alfesco in autumn at La Faîs’sie d’Cidre (Cider Festival)
book online at www.jersey.com
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‘you should check out La Faîs’sie d’Cidre.’ My ears prick up – my Jèrriais needs work, but cider is a language I can speak’
Cider at Hamptonne
‘If you’re after something to do this afternoon,’ our guide adds, as we spill from the restaurant, ‘you should check out La Faîs’sie d’Cidre.’ My ears prick up – my Jèrriais needs work, but cider is a language I can speak. I hadn’t realised Jersey made cider, but then again with all that ‘black butter’ around – an intense spiced apple compote used in everything from fudge to ice cream – plus with the island’s proximity to Normandy, it makes sense. Things are starting to get seriously interesting. We hop in our car and start on the winding roads, cutting through fiery autumnal colours. We coast along tiny Green Lanes, past fields of grazing Jersey cows; hedgerows framing clapboard farmhouses; honesty boxes overflowing with pumpkins for sale; a hill dotted with clucking hens. Right to the centre of the island we go, east of flower-trimmed Morel Farm, to the pretty premises of Hamptonne, the country life museum, home of the annual Faîs’sie d’Cidre, aka Cider Festival.
By this late afternoon it is buzzing as daytime kids’ activities give way to adult entertainment – the cider. Local acts belt out tunes from a tent while the crowd warms up with pints of La Robeline’s semi-sweet. French in style, Jersey in flavor, the tradition of cider making here stretches all the way back to the 17th century, and now a dozen or so apple varieties make their way into the mix. We finish our first refreshing glass with ease. A few feet from the cider kegs, the inviting aroma of sizzling sausages wafts through the air. We discover that a key ingredient is a local chilli jam, which in turn uses La Robeline’s cider in some of its blends. As the sky darkens and autumn’s chill sets in, bearded locals in the throes of apple-induced joy bounce on haystacks and tap their feet to the rhythms of the Jèrriaissinging Badlabecques, and pint after pint slips down. The next morning the skies over St Aubin’s Bay – and the Somerville Hotel – are painted grey. The steely waves of the Channel lap against a deserted beach. Thick ribbons of rain crash against the shoreline, drumming away at an already weathered coast, once famous for its smugglers’ coves. It’s the kind of morning where we would rather duck under the bedcovers than head out to an oyster farm. But as we slink from the breakfast room to the lobby, the hotel manager catches our worried grimaces. ‘Don’t worry,’ he says, ‘I promise you it will be blue skies by noon.’ He even makes me shake on it. By the time we are half way along the south coast, the sky is the colour of tourmalines, a clutch of small sheep-like clouds all that remain of the morning’s storms. Hugging the coast, we see otherworldly looking beaches and Tolkienesque towers exposed by low tide. A finger cast across a map reveals sites of 19thcentury shipwrecks – a reminder of Jersey’s rocky shores and fierce current, a combination that has claimed booty and lives alike. Arriving at the Seymour Inn we have moments to yank on our wellies and sweaters before meeting our guide Trudie. And then without a cloud in the Jersey sky and miles of silken smooth golden sand spread out before us, we set out into this other world. Trudie knows just about everything about the bivalves we were about to encounter in their tens of thousands.
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‘Jersey produces oysters with a very particular character. They have aromas of seaweed and quite a delicate texture, though a distinct steely flavour,’ she tells us as we make tracks along the sand. Seemingly endless rows of tables, strewn with seaweeds (the luminous one is sea lettuce and great in salads, we learn, while the ribbon-like dulse is nice dried) sit before us. Each table supports several mesh sacks heavy with oysters. Lithe workmen dip between rows, shaking the sacks (to keep oysters from growing together), or tossing them on the back of a tractor for redistribution or harvest. It’s labour-intensive work. Each oyster takes around three years to grow, and in that time it’s rebagged and relocated several times – young or small ones kept further out to sea, where tides are gentler, with mature specimens closer to shore. It’s the unique ‘seatoir’ here – the water’s character but also the unique movement of the tides – that gives Jersey oysters their flavour.
‘Jersey produces oysters with a very particular character. They have aromas of seaweed and quite a delicate texture’ But it’s not only relevant for oysters: beyond the tables there are wooden poles, stretching row on row towards the sky, throwing reflections on to the sea. Each is wrapped with rope covered in mussels, some as tiny as fingernails. We wade in to see them until the surf is lapping at the top of our wellies, then it’s time to hike back. On the inn’s sunny terrace we share a dozen plump, freshly harvested Jersey oysters. They taste sublime.
There was only one thing for it – I had sampled Michelin-starred dining, fine cider, the freshest oysters… but I just must have my brown crab. So we drive all the way back along the coast to the twinkling lights of St Brelade’s Bay, to the acclaimed Oyster Box. And we have a whole brown crab each – but we could have had one to share. The fat claws spill forth a bounty of luscious meat, and washed down with a glass of white wine, it is all rather good indeed. This is brown crab, refined: the modern Jersey way. And I am content.
As the honeyed hues of late afternoon set in, we decide to scale the ancient castle at Gorey, to the north. We take in the expansive ocean view, wondering what it would have been like to be kings here, then let our minds wander to the very important subject of dinner.
But then something happens. As our server clears our plates I find myself leaning in and asking whether she knows if anyone around here does a good crab sandwich. ‘The Hungry Man in Rozel is the best’ she says, ‘up on the north-east coast. Fluffy bread, lots of Jersey butter and served with a nice mug of tea…’
See overleaf for more on Jersey’s thriving and very tasty food scene.
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Exploring the oyster beds at low tide
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JERSEYFILE
ALL GOOD A taste of Jersey It certainly went down well with Alicia Miller, who – as you can read on the previous pages – sampled everything from Michelin-star-rated cuisine to fine cider. For her tasty autumn break she based herself at: Somerville Hotel, Mont de Boulevard, St Aubin JE3 8AD T 01534 741226, www.dolanhotels.com Her guided walk to the oyster beds was provided by: Jersey Walk Adventures T 07797 853033 www.jerseywalkadventures.co.uk
What’s on the menu?
A taste of Jersey, like the island itself, is a mix of influences – contemporary British and classic French, with a dash of Italian and Portuguese thrown in. And, for lighter bites, everything from frothy cappuccinos and ciabattas to the best English cream teas and sandwiches this side of the Queen’s Garden Party.
Seafood:
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Our foodie reputation has something to do with our rich soil, fertile farmlands, gentle climate and A-Grade seawaters. And, quite possibly, the fact that we’re so close to the famously food-obsessed French. It’s certainly a reflection of our island status and all that super-fresh sea and farm food that surrounds us.
: s eat tr y Cream e y faces. It’s betrcaeatuss ett pr st ju than re l They’re mo s that we have tasty loca of Jersey cow cream and butter, ice creams, like rich milk,ème fraîche and organic milk. yoghurt, cr
: op cr the of Cream
Stream, ed by the Gulf she rm wa s, sh ter wa r Our clea of top-quality opsllfiand e nc da un ab an all produce bsters, mussels, sc including crabress,talourants in St Aubin, Gorey and oysters. Go to sensational Jersey plaice, sea bass, St Helier for nkfish and mackerel. mo
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We’re an island in love with our food. And who can blame us, with such fantastic local produce in our seas and fields? Our thriving food culture runs deep, embracing everything from bistros to beach cafés, fine dining to gastropubs. That’s the thing about this island – the uniform quality you’ll find everywhere, from the humblest café to Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s all good.
the only crop (they really Our prized Jersey Royals aren’t s of vegetables and do taste different, you know)ng. Lot udi asparagus, bell peppers,toes fruits are grown here, inclstra rries, Jersey Royale toma chillies, broccoli, courgettes, etiewbe and rare vari s of mushroom.
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Going places
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Jersey’s reputation as a foodie island is growing and growing. Currently, four restaurants have a Michelin star, the highest number by population outside London. And there’s a whole host with prestigious AA Rosettes from the highly respected AA Restaurant Guide. Not bad for such a small island.
Genuine Jersey: Look out for the label when shopping for genuine home-grown, home-sourced produce. www.genuinejersey.com
Shop at the farm – then pack a picnic Our farm shops are full of fresh-from-the-fields produce plus other local delicacies. Call into places like Classic Herd, Manor Farm, La Route de Manoir, St Peter (www.classicfarmshop.com) and Farm Fresh Organics, La Bienvenue Farm, La Grande Route de St Laurent, St Lawrence (www.farmfreshorganics.com). At the last count there were around 15 ‘Genuine Jersey’ farm shops. Plus, of course, fresh food markets and many supermarkets selling island produce. Sometimes there’s not even a shop or shopkeeper in sight, just roadside stalls and boxes filled with fruit and veg, all sold on an honesty basis. That’s Jersey for you. And as for picnic sites, where do you begin? With our Picnic Jersey guide perhaps, available free from Jersey Tourism.
Jersey wine? – and vodka too
Market forces We don’t go in for jet-lagged food in Jersey. Save air miles by going shopping in St Helier’s characterful fresh food and fish markets – they’re full of fabulous produce. Look out for the regular farm and craft markets at St Aubin and St Helier. And when you’re out and about, buy your produce direct from the farm.
Why not? It’s very sunny here, and the island is on the same latitude as some of the continent’s famous wine-producing areas. La Mare Wine Estate’s vineyards produce an excellent range of wines (white, red and sparkling), plus cider – an island tradition – from its own apple orchards. Take a tasting tour, followed by a meal at the attractive Vineyard Restaurant. T 01534 481178 www.lamarewineestate.com La Mare also makes vodka, a premium spirit from a premium potato, the Jersey Royal. Look out too for luxury vodka from the new Jersey Royal Distillery Company, the island’s other artisan distillery. www.jerseydistillery.com
What’s black and doesn’t taste like butter? Our Black Butter, or Lé Nièr Buerre, is a unique autumnal concoction of harvested apples, sugar, spices, liquorice and lemons. It’s delicious. Come along and lend a hand during the National Trust for Jersey’s Black Butter Making weekend, 24–26 October. Peel the apples, stir the pot and learn how, in Jersey, we have butter that’s black (plus the ordinary kind, of course).
Foodie festivals This foodie island really gets into gear with the Jersey Food Festival, 21–25 May. For autumn flavours, don’t miss our Cider Festival, La Faîs’sie d’Cidre, 18–19 October and Tennerfest, 1 October–11 November, a seasonal showcase of good food at places to eat across the island – with fixed-price menus starting at just £10.
book online at www.jersey.com
57
JERSEYFILE
IT’S ALL IN THE RETAIL
Shopping doesn’t immediately spring to mind when you mention Jersey in the same breath as, say, London, Paris or Milan. But you’ll be surprised by what this little island serves up when it comes to retail therapy. Our buzzy, busy island scene never takes time out. Add a discerning local population to Jersey’s many visitors and you have a thriving market for quality shopping that’s much bigger than the size of the island might suggest.
Footfall
To give you an idea, we’ve created our very own street with some of our favourite Jersey shops, galleries and markets. Go on, get browsing…
De Gruchy Founded over 200 years ago and one of the oldest department store retailers in the UK, it’s synonymous with shopping in Jersey. The Channel Islands’ largest retail outlet, selling everything from fashion to furnishings. www.degruchys.com
Voisins Family-owned independent retailer – another must for your shopping list. Like De Gruchy it’s a large department store choc-full of all kinds of high-quality items. www.voisins.com
Love Bird Gifts ‘Quirky’, ‘eccentric’, ‘eclectic’ and ‘cheeky’ are some of the ways it is described. It certainly has more a feel of an artist’s studio than conventional shop. There’s a second shop – Love Bird Too – at Jersey War Tunnels. www.lovebirdgifts.co.uk
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pureJersey
Liberty Wharf The new kid on the block. This recent waterfront development is Jersey’s first covered shopping mall, an architecturally intriguing blend of old and new influences – plus big-name UK stores, independent Jersey boutiques and an enticing café life. www.liberty-wharf.com
Maison La Mare Genuine Jersey produce comes to the fore here, in a shop packed with local goodies and great gifts – wine, chocolate, preserves and Jersey Black Butter. The wine comes from La Mare Wine Estate on Jersey’s north coast (go here for guided tours and more good shopping). www.lamarewineestate.com
Central Market A Victorian gem with a grand glass roof and beautiful central fountain. Characterful and traditional, it’s packed with stalls selling antiques, flowers, fresh vegetables and jewellery. Seafood is the theme at nearby Beresford Market (or Fish Market) where, this being Jersey, the stalls brim with catchof-the-day freshness.
Jane James Ceramics
Specialises in handcrafted coastal ceramics and pottery inspired by Jersey’s stunning coastline. A working studio and paint-yourown-ceramics area too. Jane also has a shop in Gorey. www.janejames.co.uk
Call in and see us Make our Visitor Centre at Liberation Place, close to the seafront at St Helier, your first port of call. You can’t beat local knowledge. Bus information. Beach information. Attractions and places to visit. Walking and wildlife. Festivals and events… our friendly staff will be happy to help with all enquiries, as well as provide an accommodation booking service. You’ll also be able to pick and choose from a big range of maps, guides and brochures, free or for sale.
Out of town
More top shops St Helier’s pedestrianised main street is its shopping backbone. Along here and adjoining side streets you’ll find a bazaar of shopping experiences – everything from big-name stores to smaller speciality and independent shops.
Shopping in Jersey isn’t just confined to the capital. Large craft and retail centres scattered across the island are popular attractions and shopping destinations in their own right. Even the farms get in on the act – for details of farm shops and farmers’ markets see the ‘food’ Jerseyfile. Heading out of St Helier it’s difficult to know where to begin. In St Aubin perhaps, home of the Harbour Gallery and Studios (www. theharbourgalleryjersey.com). The Channel Islands’ largest exhibition and selling gallery, there’s always something new to see here amongst its confection of original paintings, textiles, sculpture and designer fashion. Other leading players on the shopping scene include Jersey Pearl, St Ouen (www.jerseypearl.com), a large complex attracting thousands of visitors a year. Catherine Best Jewellery at St Peter (www. catherinebest.com) is on a more intimate scale. Based at a lovely old windmill, this award-winning jeweller is known for her classic jewellery with a modern feel.
Shopmobility Genuine Jersey:
This non-profit making association is based on products that have a sufficiently strong Jersey content to be labelled genuinely ‘local’. Look out for the Genuine Jersey logo when you’re out and about – it applies to a wide and wonderful range of goods that use local ingredients and local skills. T 01534 448114 www.genuinejersey.com
This scheme operates from the lower floor of St Helier’s Sand Street car park. Electric scooters and chairs and manual pushchairs are available 10am–4.30pm, Monday– Saturday. Prior booking is preferred but not necessary. T 01534 739672 or 07829 736 797 www.shopmobility.org.je
book online at www.jersey.com
59
JERSEYFILE
SPAGAZING Take a look at our starry spas. There’s a stellar range of spa breaks on offer at top hotels and wellbeing retreats across the island. To get you in the mood, here are their signature treatments plus other details.
Bellissimo
That’s Bellezza, based at the luxurious St Brelade’s Bay Hotel. Signature treatment: It’s ‘Beauty in the Bay’ (what else?), involving a body scrub, hydrating body wrap and a signature Collagen facial. Described as being ‘very handson and extremely pampering’, it includes full use of the hotel’s facilities (pool, steam room and Jacuzzi), robes/towels, etc.
Join the Club
The Club Hotel & Spa, St Helier, is chic and contemporary. Signature treatment: The ‘Minerale Envelopment’ is an extensive body envelopment unique to the Club. The body is massaged smooth to eliminate toxins and stimulate the skin. The exclusive envelopment of clay, semi-precious stone extract and precious oils is lavished over the body to harmonise, correct imperfections and regenerate. Then comes the anti-ageing eye treatment, followed by a light shower and softening oil massage. Other facilities here include a thermal suite and indoor and outdoor pool.
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pureJersey
Horizontal harmony
L’Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa, overlooking beautiful St Brelade’s Bay, has long been synonymous with luxury. Signature treatment: The Elemis Biotec Facial is a unique fusion of technology and touch. This facial works in perfect synergy with the skin’s natural bio-electric field, delivering seven unique, clinically proven facials for every skin type. Powered by five treatment technologies, each one provides powerful and measurable results. Therapists will analyse your skin and recommend one of the following treatments: Triple-Tec Anti-Wrinkle Facial, Micro Firm-a-Lift Facial, Sonic Skin-Resurfacing Facial, Sonic Skin-Radiance Facial, LED Blemish Control Facial, O2 Sensitive Skin Soothing Facial and Super-Charge Facial for Men. New spa facilities include six treatment rooms, a relaxation room, sleep room and a manicure and pedicure area. Health Club facilities include a heated indoor swimming pool and spa pool with views of St Brelade’s Bay, a sauna and steam room, and an air-conditioned gym.
That’s just Grand
The Spa at Grand Jersey is part of a boldly remodelled seafront hotel in St Helier. Signature treatment: ‘Advanced Back, Face and Scalp with Hot Stones’ is a powerful stress-releasing treatment using hot stones. The initial deep-cleansing back exfoliation is followed by the hot stone back massage with essential oils restoring equilibrium to mind and body. The face massage involves deeply nourishing facial oils and the application of an intensive face treatment mask, while the Oriental head massage helps clear the mind and calm the spirit. The result? Rehydrated, nourished and soothed skin combined with deep relaxation. The spa’s comprehensive facilities include a heated indoor swimming pool, spa pool, steam room, sauna, experience showers, relaxation room and high-tech gym.
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All’s well
The Ayush Wellness Spa at Hotel de France, another stellar St Helier spa, offers Ayurvedic treatments based on ancient Hindu health and healing principles. Signature treatment: The ‘Abhyanga Oil Massage’ combines truly holistic massage and steam detoxification. Slowly warmed oils are poured over the body while two specially trained therapists work in synchronised harmony, alleviating fatigue and chronic tension while detoxifying the body. Abhyanga is completed with bashpa sweda, a herbalised steam treatment to increase the release of toxins. Other spa facilities include indoor infinity pool, hot and cold plunge pools, hydrotherapy pools and large jet pool.
Rock steady
Les Roches, in the heart of the country, is a wellbeing health spa set in large, peaceful grounds with an indoor pool, sauna and Jacuzzi that looks out to the beautiful garden. Signature treatment: The ‘Indoceane Signature Spa Ritual’ comes in three steps. It starts with a Mediterranean exfoliation that leaves the skin super smooth. Second stop is India to experience a tensionreleasing full body massage, followed by China where the body is submerged in a silky sublime wrap designed to nourish and rehydrate.
TO THE MANOR BORN
Longueville Manor is one of Jersey’s finest luxury hotels. It has recently enhanced its relaxation repertoire by opening its new Cottage Garden boutique spa. Signature treatment: We’re cheating a bit here by featuring two treatments that can’t be found anywhere else on the island. All skincare treatments at Longueville use the quintessentially British brand REN, favoured by the world’s top spas to boost the skin’s natural processes of protection, repair and renewal. REN products, made of 100% plant and mineral derived actives, are free from synthetic ingredients. REN Ultimate Radiance is a brightening facial designed to resurface, renew and re-energise tired, dull and stressed skin and is suitable for all skin types. The key to the second treatment – REN ‘What’s Not To Love’ Bespoke Body Massage – is in the title. It’s an indulgent full body massage combining acupressure and shiatsu with REN’s deep, slow massage technique to detoxify, relax and invigorate. Suited to your needs, this one is just for you. Other facilities in this small yet idyllic sanctuary include an outdoor heated spa pool, butler service and gym.
FoR the RECORD Bellezza, St Brelade’s Bay Hotel, St Brelade T 01534 723333 www.bellezzajersey.co.uk The Club Hotel & Spa, St Helier T 01534 876500 www.theclubjersey.com Grand Jersey, St Helier T 01534 722301 www.grandjersey.com
Sail away
Spa Sirène is part of the Royal Yacht, a dazzling hotel in the heart of St Helier. Signature treatment: ‘Lavender Lullaby’ is a face and body treatment combining Eastern massage techniques for a truly holistic experience. The treatment begins with a skin-revealing sea salt scrub and hydrating facial treat, before warm linen boluses of Jersey Lavender are applied to the body’s reflex zones. A hands-on massage incorporating Thai-inspired movements creates deep relaxation and warm feelings of well-being. Spa facilities include a hydrotherapy bath, steam mud rasul, full thermal suite, vitality pool and gym.
L’Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa, St Brelade T 01534 494433 www.handpicked.co.uk/lhorizon Hotel de France, St Helier T 01534 614171 www.defrance.co.uk www.ayushspa.com Les Roches Spa, St Ouen T 01534 487856 www.lesroches.co.uk Longueville Manor, St Saviour T 01534 725501 www.longuevillemanor.com The Royal Yacht, St Helier T 01534 720511 www.theroyalyacht.com
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Hotel Registration and Grading
The AA and Visit Britain now assess hotels, guest accommodation and self-catering to the same criteria and award one to five stars or one to five pennants for campsites. The rating reflects the overall quality of the experience. Jersey ratings made easy H Acceptable – simple, practical, no frills HH Good – well presented and well run HHH Very good level of quality and comfort HHHH Excellent standard throughout HHHHH Exceptional with a degree of luxury H AA Red Star Hotel H JQA or AA Gold Award H JQA or AA Silver Award Outstanding examples in each star category are highlighted in red or yellow.
A list of registered accommodation is also available on www.jersey.com Please contact Jersey Tourism on 01534 448877 or email info@jersey.com to receive the comprehensive booklet A Guide to Jersey for the Disabled.
Booking made easy Holidays and short breaks in Jersey are easy to arrange. Flights and ferry crossings are short, you’re dealing in pounds, not euros, and booking is swift and straightforward. See what’s on offer on these pages and book direct. You can also use the free booking and advice service available from Jersey Tourism on 01534 448888. Or book online at www.jersey.com
No. Singles
No. Rooms
www.longuevillemanor.com
G
29
0
722301
www.grandjersey.com
R,F
123 13
744101
www.theatlantichotel.com
F
50
0
www.theclubjersey.com
R
46
0
491906
www.dolanhotels.com
F
56
4
Golden Sands, St Brelade
491907
www.dolanhotels.com
F
62
1
Radisson BLU, St Helier
671100
www.radissonblu.co.uk/hotel-jersey
R,F
195 0
Chateau La Chaire, St Martin
863354
www.chateau-la-chaire.co.uk
F
14
0
Cristina, St Lawrence
491908
www.dolanhotels.com
F
63
0
De France, St Saviour
614100
www.defrance.co.uk
R
126 24
Greenhills, St Peter
481042
www.greenhillshotel.com
G
31
1
La Place, St Brelade
744261
www.hotellaplacejersey.com
G
39
0
L’Horizon, St Brelade
743101
www.handpicked.co.uk/lhorizon
F
106 5
Pomme D’Or, St Helier
880110
www.pommedorhotel.com
R,F
143 4
Royal Yacht, St Helier
720511
www.theroyalyacht.com
R,F
110 18
Savoy, St Helier
727521
www.hotelsavoyjersey.com
R
56
1
St Brelade’s Bay, St Brelade
746141
www.stbreladesbayhotel.com
F
77
4
722239
www.theinnjersey.com
R
36
5
Pontac House, St Clement
857771
www.pontachouse.com
F
27
2
Beachcombers, Grouville
875236
www.beachcombershotel.co.uk
F
45
3
Ambassadeur, St Clement
724455
www.hotelambassadeur.co.uk
F
89
12
Apollo, St Helier
725441
www.apollojersey.com
R
85
5
Beau Rivage, St Brelade
745983
www.jersey.co.uk/hotels/beau2010
F
28
1
Beausite, Grouville
857577
www.beausitejersey.com
F
76
1
Best Western Royal, St Helier 873006
www.morvanhotels.com
R
89
10
Biarritz, St Brelade
www.biarritzhotel.co.uk
F
45
15
www.ch.je
F
105 8
Hampshire, St Helier
724115 www.hampshirehotel.je
R
42
3
Highlands Hotel, St Brelade
744288 www.highlandshotel.com
F
56
19
Marina Metro, St Helier
724519
www.marinametrojersey.com
F
34
3
Mayfair, St Helier
735511
www.modernhotels.com
R
222 0
Merton, St Saviour
724231
www.mertonhotel.com
R
286 3
Metropole, St Helier
735511
www.modernhotels.com
R
144 16
Monterey, St Helier
873006
www.morvanhotels.com
R
73
2
Moorings, St Martin
853633
www.themooringshotel.com
F
15
4
Norfolk Lodge, St Helier
873006
www.morvanhotels.com
R
101 21
Old Court House, Grouville
854444
www.ochhoteljersey.com
F
58
4
Ommaroo, St Helier
723493
www.ommaroo.com
R,F
83
11
Revere, St Helier
611122
www.revere.co.uk
R
55
3
Samares Coast, St Clement
873006
www.morvanhotels.com
F
52
4
Shakespeare, St Clement
851915
www.shakespearejersey.com
F
32
0
Water’s Edge Hotel, Trinity
862777
www.watersedgejersey.com
G,F 50
7
Windmills, St Brelade
744201
www.windmillshotel.com
F
38
5
Alhambra, St Helier
732128
www.alhambrahotel.net
R,F
18
1
Dolphin, St Martin
853370
www.dolphinhoteljersey.com
F
16
2
Maison Gorey, Grouville
857775
www.maisongorey.com
F
28
6
Millbrook House, St Helier
733036
www.millbrookhousehotel.com
F
24
3
Miramar, St Brelade
743831
www.miramarjersey.com
F
38
4
Mountview, St Helier
887666
www.ch.je
R
31
2
Norfolk, St Helier
632000
www.norfolkhoteljersey.co.uk
R
100 11
Oaklands Lodge, Trinity
861735
www.oaklandslodgehotel.com
G
10
0
Old Bank House, Grouville
854285
www.oldbankhousejersey.com
F
20
0
Runnymede Court, St Helier
720044
www.runnymedejersey.com
F
57
3
Sandranne, St Helier
721218
hotel.sandranne@gmail.com
R
31
6
Sarum, St Helier
758163
www.jersey.co.uk/hotels/sarum
R
52
26
Stafford, St Helier
611122
www.jerseyrooms.co.uk
R
72
5
Westhill, St Helier
723260
www.westhillhoteljersey.com
G
90
16
West View, St Mary
481643
www.westviewhoteljersey.com
G
41
3
Grand, St Helier
HHHH
Atlantic, St Brelade
The Club Hotel & Spa, St Helier 876500
HHHH
Somerville, St Aubin
HHHH
HHHH
HHH The Inn Boutique, St Helier
HHH
For JQA ratings, visit www.qualityintourism.co.uk or telephone: 01845 300 6996
Open all year
Longueville Manor, St Saviour 725501
HHHHH
For AA ratings, visit www.theAA.com or telephone: 01256 844455
Key to Location Symbols F Coastal location G Countryside location R Town location
Location
HHHHH
All accommodation in Jersey must be registered but grading is optional. Quality (grading) is assessed by either the AA or Visit Britain for the Jersey Quality Assured (JQA) scheme. Please be aware that ratings may change throughout the year.
Website
Hotels
Accommodation
Tel Prefix (01534):
Graded
HHH
742239
De Normandie Hotel, St Saviour 721847
HH
62
pureJersey
HHHHH La Haule Manor Hotel, St Brelade 741426 www.lahaulemanor.com
F
16 0
Panorama, St Aubin
F
14 3
742429 www.panoramajersey.com
HHHH Bay View, St Helier
720950 www.bayviewjersey.com
R,F 12 2
Harbour View, St Aubin
741585 www.harbourviewjersey.com
F 16 2
Fairholme, St Helier
732194 www.fairholmejersey.com
F 15 1
La Bonne Vie, St Helier
735955 www.labonnevieguesthousejersey.com F 10 2
HHHH Old Court House Inn, St Aubin 746433 www.oldcourthousejersey.com F 9 2 Prince of Wales, St Ouen
482278 www.princeofwalesjersey.com F 15 0
Undercliff, Trinity
863058 www.undercliffjersey.com
F 9 1
The Village B&B, St Lawrence 862262 www.villagejersey.com
G 7 0
Alister, St Helier
720887 www.alisterguesthouse.com
R
11 1
Au Caprice, St Aubin
722083 www.aucapricejersey.com
F
12 0
Bon Viveur, St Aubin
741049 www.bonviveurjersey.com
F 19 2
De L’Etang, St Helier
721996 www.deletang.je F
13 2
Lorraine, St Helier
735164 lorraineguesthouse@gmail.com
R
10 1
Maison Chaussey, St Helier
723836 www.maisonchaussey.com
F
8
Olanda, St Aubin
742573 www.olandaguesthouse.com
F
10 0
Peterborough House, St Aubin 741568 www.jerseyisland.com/peterborough-house.html F
14 4
Seawold, St Peter
720807 www.seawoldguesthouse.co.uk F
21 2
St Magloire, St Aubin
638143 www.stmagloireguesthouse.com
F
12 0
Villa Isis, St Helier
724472 www.villaisisjersey.com
R 19 5
16 6
2
2
608062
www.amani-jersey.com
F
10 3/4/7
497000
www.lesormesjersey.co.uk
F
497000
www.lesormesjersey.co.uk
G
6
4/6
Les Ormes Lodge 62 2/4/5/6/7/9
No. Singles
Mornington, St Helier
724452
morningtonhotel@outlook.com
R
31
0
Seascale, St Martin
854395
www.seascalehotel.com
F
9
1
Talana, St Saviour
730317
www.talanahotel.co.uk
G
41
1
Franklyn, St Helier
730108
www.franklynguesthouse.co.uk
R
7
2
Havelock, St Helier
730663
www.havelockguesthouse.com
F
16
3
mackpa30@gmail.com
Huntley Lodge, St Helier
870145
R
5
0
Jaylana, St Helier
731877 www.jaylanaguesthouse.co.uk
F
9
1
Lyndhurst, St Brelade
720317
F
8
0
www.lyndhurstguesthouse.com
St Aubin
744275
www.mashjersey.com
F
4
0
Porthole Cottage, St Aubin
745007
www.porthole-cottage.com
F
10
2
Richelieu Lodge, St Saviour
727216
Rocqueberg View, St Clement 852642
www.stbreladescollege.co.uk
G
10
1
www.rocquebergview.co.uk
F
9
0
Seacroft, St Helier
732732
seacroft38@msn.com
R
8
0
St Francis, St Helier
732112
www.stfrancisjersey.com
R
5
1
www.surreylodge.com
Surrey Lodge, St Helier
734834
R
7
2
The Haven, St Helier
610017 www.thehavenguesthouse.com
F
11
6
Wheatlands, St Peter
888877
G
17
3
www.wheatlandsjersey.com
742239 www.biarritzhotel.co.uk
F
1
3
St Peter
490100 www.boscobel.co.uk
G
7
3/4
Brabant, Trinity
725259 www.freedomholidays.com
G
1
7
Cherry Tree Apartments, St Helier 07700 700576 www.cherrytreeapartments.co.uk G
2 6
Corbiere Phare, St Brelade
746127 www.corbierephare.com
F
7
De Normandie, St Saviour
721347 www.channelhotels.com
F
5 2/3/5
Discovery Bay, St Peter
484222 www.discoverybayjersey.com
F
11 2/4
Falaise House, St Mary
484447 leopog2002@yahoo.com
G
2
F
1 6
744261 www.laplaceselfcatering.com
G
12 4/5/6/7/8
HHHH
Saco Merlin House, St Helier 880073 www.sacoapartments.co.uk Samares Manor, St Clement 870551
www.samaresmanor.com
G
6
3/4/5/6/8
Undercliff, Trinity
www.undercliffjersey.com
F
3
2/3/7
863058
R
24 2/4/6
HHH 857577
www.beausitejersey.com
F
6
2/4/5
873006
www.morvanhotels.com
F
12 2
Samares Coast Hotel,
www.millbrookhousehotel.com
F
3
2
www.westviewhoteljersey.com
G
1
2
741426 www.lahaulemanor.com
F
2
743378 www.laroccoapartments.com
F
22 2/4/5/6/8
Camp Sites
2/3
6 2/4/5/6/9
Le Hurel Farm, Trinity
725259 www.freedomholidays.com
G
Liberty Apartments, St Helier
714700 www.libertyapartments.co.uk
R 63 2/4
Merton Suites, St Helier
724231 www.mertonsuites.com
R
28 1-12
491059
F
1
6
Officers Quarters, Greve de Lecq Barracks, St Mary 725259 www.freedomholidays.com
F
1
6
Old Forge, St Clement
854176 oldforgejersey@gmail.com
G
1
6
Panama, St Helier
481643 www.panamajersey.com
R
14 2/6 1
Rozel Farm Holiday Cottage, St Martin
866470 stephen.pallot@outlook.com
G
The Sail Loft, St Aubin
488143 www.jerseysailloft.co.uk
F
4
Uplands Self-Catering, St Helier 873006 www.morvanhotels.com
F
12 2/5
Water’s Edge, Trinity
862777 www.watersedgejersey.com
3/4
F
8
Welwyn Apartments, St Clements 870318 www.welwynapartments.com
F
2 2
Windmills Hotel, St Brelade
F
2
744201 www.windmillshotel.com
Camp Sites No. Persons
733036 481643
Location
Millbrook House, St Helier West View Hotel, St Mary
3/5
La Haule Manor, St Brelade
HH
7
La Rocco, St Brelade
St Brelade
La Place Country Cottages,
2 2/4
Daisy Cottage Campsite
481700 www.daisycottagecampsite.com
G 150
Jersey Yurt Holidays, Cliffden
741350 www.jerseyyurtsholidays.com
G 12
Hostel Accommodation
Beuvelande Camp Site, St Martin 853575 www.campingjersey.com
G 400
Durrell Wildlife Camp
860000 www.durrellwildlife.org
G 54
Rozel Camping Park, St Martin
855200 www.rozelcamping.co.uk
G 200
Jersey Accommodation & Activity Centre, St Martin
498636 www.jerseyhostel.co.uk
G
Hostel Accommodation HHH Durrell Wildlife Park
No. Rooms
Location
4 5
Mont Es Croix Cottage,
HHHHH
St Clement
65 26
La Ferme du val Tocque, St Brelade 725259 www.freedomholidays.com
La Pulente Cottages
Beausite Hotel, Grouville
R F
Biarritz, St Brelade
HHHHH
St Peter
www.morvanhotels.com www.maisondeslandes.co.uk
No. Persons
R 15 0
& Leisure Village, St Brelade
873006 481683
Self-Catering
No. Persons Per Unit
R 7
730156
No. Units
731171 www.guesthousejersey.com
Thalatta, St Helier
Location
Avoca Villa, St Helier
& Villas, St Brelade
Fort D’Auvergne, St Helier Maison des Landes, St Ouen
Boscobel Country Apartments,
Self-Catering
2 0
No. Persons Per Unit
F
Amani, St Brelade
16 4
No. Units
742163 www.oceanwalk.co.uk
HH
R R
Mash Restaurant & Guest House,
HHH
www.hotelalmorah.com
Guest Accommodation
HHH Ocean Walk, St Brelade
721648
850890 www.banjojersey.com
Location
Almorah, St Helier Banjo, St Helier
Location
Website
Hotels
Tel Prefix (01534):
Registered
No. Singles
No. Rooms
Location
Website
Tel Prefix (01534):
Guest Accommodation
860025 www.durrellwildlife.org
G 24
book online at www.jersey.com
110
63
Travelling to Jersey Air travel to Jersey from the UK, Ireland and other Channel Islands Aberdeen Alderney Belfast City Belfast International Birmingham Bristol Cardiff Cambridge Doncaster Dublin Dundee Durham Tees East Midlands Edinburgh Exeter Glasgow Gloucester Guernsey Humberside Inverness Leeds Bradford Liverpool
CI Travel Group* Flybe* Aurigny Flybe* easyjet Flybe Blue Islands Flybe Flybe* CI Travel Group* Premier Holidays Flybe* Aer Lingus* CI Travel Group* CI Travel Group* Flybe* Flybe Flybe Flybe easyJet* Citywing* Aurigny Blue Islands Flybe CI Travel Group* Flybe* CI Travel Group* Flybe* Jet2* easyJet
0843 636 8463 0371 700 2000 01481 822886 0371 700 2000 0843 104 5000 0371 700 2000 0845 620 2122 0371 700 2000 0371 700 2000 0843 636 8463 0844 493 7531 0371 700 2000 0871 718 2020 0843 636 8463 0843 636 8463 0371 700 2000 0371 700 2000 0371 700 2000 0371 700 2000 0843 104 5000 0871 200 0440 01481 822886 0845 620 2122 0371 700 2000 0843 636 8463 0371 700 2000 0843 636 8463 0371 700 2000 0800 408 1350 0843 104 5000
London City London Gatwick
www.jerseytravel.com www.flybe.com www.aurigny.com www.flybe.com www.easyjet.com www.flybe.com www.blueislands.com www.flybe.com www.flybe.com www.jerseytravel.com www.premierholidays.co.uk www.flybe.com www.aerlingus.com www.jerseytravel.com www.jerseytravel.com www.flybe.com www.flybe.com www.flybe.com www.flybe.com www.easyjet.com www.citywing.com www.aurigny.com www.blueislands.com www.flybe.com www.jerseytravel.com www.flybe.com www.jerseytravel.com www.flybe.com www.jet2.com www.easyjet.com
London Southend Manchester Newcastle Norwich Southampton
0845 620 2122 0844 493 0787 0843 104 5000 0843 104 5000 0800 408 1350 0371 700 2000 0843 104 5000 0371 700 2000 0371 700 2000 0845 620 2122 0371 700 2000
Blue Islands British Airways easyJet easyJet* Jet2 Flybe easyJet Flybe Flybe* Blue Islands Flybe
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Sea travel to Jersey from the UK and other Channel Islands Guernsey Poole Portsmouth Sark
Condor Ferries Manche Iles Express Condor Ferries Condor Ferries Manche Iles Express*
0845 609 1024 01534 880756 0845 609 1024 0845 609 1024 01534 880756
www.condorferries.com www.manche-iles-express.com www.condorferries.com www.condorferries.com www.manche-iles-express.com
Condor Ferries
0845 609 1024
www.condorferries.com
Manche Iles Express
01534 880756
www.manche-iles-express.com
Sea travel to/from France Saint Malo (Brittany) Granville & Carteret (Normandy)
* Seasonal service
Additional Departures Many airlines offer connecting flights from the majority of UK airports. Please contact airline direct for details. Seasonal Charters Many tour operators also offer seasonal charter flights from a choice of UK regional airports. For more information about services to Jersey in your area please visit ‘Transport’ information pages on www.jersey.com or call our Visitor Services on 01534 448877.
DISCLAIMER All travel details are correct at time of going to press (December 2014) and may change during the course of the year. Please check schedules and departure points before finalising any arrangements by visiting www.jersey.com or by contacting your local ABTA bonded travel agent. Jersey Tourism cannot be held responsible for any changes, errors or omissions.
Tour operators – Jersey specialists Airways Holidays Channel Islands Direct Channel Islands Travel Service Condorbreaks.com Flyjersey.com Jersey Travel Service Lewis’s Holidays Modern Holidays Premier Holidays Travelsmith TRAVTEL
0844 415 6651 0844 493 7095 01534 496600 0845 230 3241 0845 230 3240 0844 770 8082 0844 415 6652 01534 735511 0844 493 7531 01621 784666 01534 496640
www.airwaysholidays.com www.channelislandsdirect.co.uk www.jerseytravel.com www.condorbreaks.com www.flyjersey.com www.jerseytravelservice.co.uk www.jerseytravel.com www.modernhotels.com www.premierholidays.co.uk www.travelsmith.co.uk
Year-round air & sea packages, short break, flight & accommodation only Hotel only, air & sea packages including low cost airlines Year-round air & sea packages, short break, flight & accommodation only Year-round sea packages & short breaks Year-round air packages, short breaks & accommodation only Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks, flight & accommodation only Year-round air & sea packages Hotel, self-catering, camping, car hire, air & sea packages including low cost airlines Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only Year-round air & sea packages, short breaks & accommodation only
Accessible Jersey Authentic Adventures British Airways Holidays Channel Islands Arrivals David Urquhart Sky Travel Edwards Coaches Eddie Brown Tours Enable Holidays Explore Glenton Holidays H F Holidays Island Getaways Johnsons Coaches Just Go! Holidays Leger Holidays New Horizon Support Services OSET Travel Prestige Holidays Preston Holidays Ramblers Worldwide Holidays Saga Holidays Shearings Holidays The UK Holiday Group Travel Solutions Walking Jersey 3X Travel Zenith Holidays
0843 289 4 679 01453 823328 0844 493 0787 01534 731163 0844 848 6012 01443 202048 01423 321 248 0871 222 4939 01252 883673 0800 024 2424 0345 470 8558 01983 721111 01564 797 000 08432 244 222 0844 324 9266 01534 888826 01628 525189 01425 480600 0844 770 8084 01707 331133 0800 096 0085 01942 244246 01603 886700 0289 045 5030 01534 498650 0844 276 0000 0203 137 7678
www.accessiblejersey.com www.authenticadventures.co.uk www.britishairways.com www.channelescapes.com www.davidurquhart.com www.edwardscoaches.co.uk www.eddiebrowntours.com www.enableholidays.com www.explore.co.uk www.glentonholidays.co.uk www.hfholidays.co.uk www.islandgetaways.co.uk www.johnsonscoaches.co.uk www.justgoholidays.com www.leger.co.uk www.newhorizonssupportservices.co.uk www.o-s-e-t.co.uk www.prestigeholidays.co.uk www.prestonholidays.co.uk www.ramblersholidays.co.uk www.saga.co.uk/holidays www.shearings.com www.theukholidaygroup.com www.travel-solutions.co.uk www.walkingjersey.co.uk www.3xtravel.co.uk www.zenithholidays.co.uk
Accessible holidays for disabled travellers Painting and photography holidays Year-round air packages, short breaks, flight & accommodation only Year-round air & sea breaks of any duration Year-round air and sea breaks of any duration Air & sea packages Air & sea packages Accessible holidays for disabled travellers Walking tour specialist Year-round air & sea packages Walking & cycling holidays Year round air and sea packages Air & sea packages Air & sea packages Air & sea packages Year-round supported and assisted holidays to Jersey for disabled travellers Year-round air and sea packages Year round air and sea packages Year round packages by sea Walking holidays Packaged breaks with set departures dates throughout the year Year-round air & sea packages Year-round air & sea packages Northern Ireland departures Walking holidays Year-round packages by sea Activity holidays
01 871 9819 04890 455 030
www.pabtours.com www.travelsolutions.ie
Groups and individual packages Air packages from Dublin and Cork
0845 268 0773 01534 725259 01534 633304 01534 488144
www.cottages4you.co.uk www.freedomholidays.com www.jerseyheritage.org www.macoles.com
Self-catering specialists Year-round air & sea packages Year-round accommodation at various Heritage sites Year-round air & sea packages
Jersey specialists in Ireland Pabtours Travel Solutions
Self-catering specialists Country Holidays Freedom Holidays Jersey Heritage Macole’s Self-Catering Holidays
Le Pulec
WC
Model Aircraft Field
Le Pinacle
Les Landes
Race Course
La Rosière
B83
La Landes du Ouest
'B' Road
Chemins de Randonnée
Green Lane
Autre Route Nebenstrassen
Minor Road
Route Catégorie 'C' C - Weg
'C' Road
Route Catégorie 'B' Verkehrstrassen
Parking (handicapés) Parkplatz (für Rollstuhlfahrer)
Car Park (disabled)
Parking Parkplatz
Car Park
Canoë-kayak Kanufahren
Canoeing
Camping Campingplatz
Camping
Pétanque Bowls
Bowls
Sentier Pédestre Fussweg
Footpath
Football Fußball
Football
Pêche Angeln
Fishing
Cricket Cricket
Cricket
Église Kirche
Church
Château / Maison Burg / Schloss
Castle / House
Site de l’occupation allemande Im 2. WK unter deutscher Besatzung
German Occ. Site
Golf Golf
Golf
Carting Gokart-Bahn
Go Kart Racing
Jardins Gartenanlage
Gardens
Fort Festung
Fort
Tour de Jersey Jersey Tower
Jersey Tower
Phare Leuchtturm
Lighthouse
Marchand de glaces Kiosk
Kiosk
K
Hôpital Krankenhaus
Hospital
Courses hippiques Pferderennen
Horse Racing
National Trust for Jersey
National Trust de Jersey National Trust für Jersey
NT
Musée Museum
M Museum
K
Centre équestre Reiterhof
Riding Stables
Site préhistorique Prähistorische Stätte
Prehistoric Site
Bureau de poste Postamt
Post Office
PO
Pique-nique Picknick
Picnic
Nature Reserve
PORTELET BAY île Percée
Portelet
Réserve naturelle Naturschutzgebiet
au mo n
WC
Surf Wellenreiten
Surfing
Plongée sous-marine Tauchen
Sub Aqua
Terrain de sport Sportplatz
Sports Field
École Schule
School
Rugby Rugby
Rugby
WC
Bon Air
C119
Hébergement Unterkünfte
Accommodation
Toilettes (handicapés) Toiletten (für Rollstuhlfahrer)
K
WC
Zoo Zoo
Zoo
Beach Ability Wheelchair Access
Navigation de plaisance Segeln
Yachting
Planche à voile Windsurfen
Wind-surfing
Ski nautique Wasserski
Water Skiing
Point de vue Aussichtspunkt
Viewpoint
K
Millbrook Reservoir
La Ruelle de St . Claire
A2
B27
C118
Becquet Vincent
K
Bellozanne
A9
A9
M Elizabeth Castle
M
ST. HELIER HARBOUR
Power Station
A4
A17
Havre Des Pas
Fort Regent
lle
K
Dicq
WC
A4
Howard Davis Park Bagot
A6
C93
B28
M
WC
K
K
C93
NT
d
t. M eS
A4 Le Nez
B38
L
WC
B37
Queen's Valley Reservoir
La Mare slip ST. CLEMENT'S BAY
Cô te
e nt
e la
em
La Grande Rout ed
Cl
B37
e Ru on àD
To Les Minquers
To Icho Tower
B30
B30
K
K
A3 Gorey Fort William
WC
YHA
WC
WC
NT
WC
A4
C111
WC
La Rocque Harbour
A4
La Rocque
B37
Le Hurel
c Fauvi ue du La R
Alderney
France
Guernsey
To Seymour Tower
England
Mont Orgueil Castle
Le Saut Geoffroi
Gorey Harbour
WC
WC
St Catherine's Breakwater
Anne Port
Archirondel
B29
K
ST. CATHERINE'S BAY
Life Boat Station
Faldouet Dolmen
K
FLIQUET BAY
Belval Cove
WC
La Coupe
Longbeach Royal Jersey Golf Club Fort Henry ROYAL BAY OF GROUVILLE
Ville ès Renauds
Gorey Village
B28
Verclut
Saie Harbour
B29
B91
C108 Gr a
Ransom’s Garden Centre
A5
NT
To The Ecrehous
St Catherine’s Wood
B91
B62
Rozel Camping Park
Fauvic
A3
B38
ROZEL BAY
DANGER LARGE TIDAL FLOW Take care when walking at low tide
Le Hocq
St Clement's Parish Hall
B49 Pontac
S Route de
Grouville Parish Church & Hall
La G ra nde
St Clement's Parish Church
A3
La
St. Saviour's Hospital
la Hougue Bie
Beuvelande Camping Site
Ville ès Gaudins
B30
Public Hall St Martin's Parish Church
e de ou t aR
A6
K
WC
Ville ès Nouaux
Rozel
Le Sauchet
Tour de Rozel
GROUVILLE
B46
Le Rocquier A5
Le Haguais
B48
E
B31
Rue au de la Mai Cro stre ix
C110 rtin a
B30
La
ST. CLEMENT
Icho Tower
Green Island
Samarès
B46
o ad Lo eR nguevill
Dolmen du Mont Ubé
S
C110
M La Hougue Bie
Samarès Manor
Le Marais Estate
Le Squez
ad
Jersey Recreation
B24 Longueville
St .Grounds Clem ent's Ro
A3
N
i
ST. MARTIN
B31
W
Maufant
B46
C109
A6
B46
ST. SAVIOUR
ed
t. eS
Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (Zoo)
a Five Gr Oaks La
F.B.Fields
A6
St Saviour's Parish Church & Hall
B61 ad Ro
Victoria Village
TRINITY
Grands Vaux Reservoir
A7
ès Picot
C95
Jardin d'Olivet
Les Augrès Manor
B31
C102
La Rue
Parish Hall
Eric Young Orchid Foundation
Government House
te A7 ga Ba Jersey Arts Centre Parish Church
Jersey
Town Hall
Town Mills
ux Va ds
ST. HELIER
A8
A8
Sir Francis Cook Gallery
A8
RJA&HS Royal Jersey Showground
La Croix
Marina M Museum
Opera House
A9
Occupation Tapestry & Maritime Museum
Marina
A9 B60
d
Mont a l'Abbé
NT
Va llé e
Le Becquet Servais (Sion)
A8
NT
Hill Climb Site
Fort Leicester K BOULEY BAY L’Etaquerel Fort WC L'Etaquerel
Vicard
Jane Coastal Ceramics
NT
Petit Port
Les Camps du Chemin
Trinity Parish Church
Les Croix
C97
Ville à l'Evêque
Eb en ez er
B51
Route d'
Highest Point in Jersey
Pallot Steam, Motor & General Museum
t he ec e de B La Ru
A8
La Rue Houguetdes tes
A1 Les Jardins de la Mer
B63
La Crête
The Waterfront Centre
Low Tide Walk Only
The Mansell A1 Collection
Ville ès Nouaux
West Park slip (Victoria Marine Lake) Gunsite slip
WC
B50
Island Centre Stone
B27
B63
NT
ST. HELIER
Dannemarche Reservoir
Sand First Tower Racing
St Matthew's (Glass) Church
ST. AUBIN'S BAY
WC
Ville Emphrie
M
BSJA Showground
Handois Reservoir
NT
B67
Issu A9 es
Le Claire Stables
es
te d
Mont Mado Rou
Coronation Millbrook B27 Park WC
B59
B50
B52
Hamptonne
Parish Hall
A10
St Lawrence Parish Church
The Grove
Bel Royal
Toilets (disabled)
WC
Toilettes Toiletten
Toilets
WC
Tennis Tennis
Tennis
Natation Schwimmen
Swimming
Noirmont Command Bunker
Noirmont
BELCROUTE BAY
NT
A10
Parish Hall
Carrefour Selous
A10
Le Rât Morel Farm
NT
A11
B89
St. Aubin's Fort
Low Tide Walk Only
Royal C.I. Yacht Club
K
K
e
Jersey War Tunnels
Beaumont A12
St Brelade's Parish Hall
K
t
St Aubin's Harbour
WC
Harbour Gallery
Railway Wal k
B57
île au Guerdain
Ouaisné Common
Portelet Common
Course automobile (ou moto) Auto- / Motorradrennen
WC
Motor (cycle) Racing
Pylône Mast
Mast
Ski de Gicleur Strahl Ski
Jet Ski
OUAISNE BAY
Disabled slip ( Sir Winston Churchill car Park)
A13
t on
Route Principale Hauptverkehrstrassen
B66 WC
Cycle Hire
St Aubin
NT
Wheatlands Golf Course
B25 La Haule A1
irm No de
tte ze d'A ve re
Main Road
K
Rout e
C107
B58
e Ru
B33
ST. LAWRENCE
u ong La L
n
St John's Parish Church
ST. JOHN
C101
BONNE NUIT La Crête Fort Giffard Bay
Les Ruaux
G La
G
BEAUPORT
WC
ST. BRELADE'S BAY
WC
Bouilly Port
St Brelade's Parish Church Fishermen's Chapel
Mont Fiquet
FIQUET BAY
La Moye
WC
Synagogue
Red Houses Sir Winston Churchill Park
Pet er's Valley
C124
Living Legend
Le Moulin de Quétivel
St .
Mont des Vignes
A11
C112
C112
The Elms
B39
a St . Je de ute Ro
Les Landes toc u q et
K WC
Belle Hougue
Scale 1: 30,000
lons s Sab e de ut Ro
Note to walkers All persons using footpaths or walks shown do so at their own risk. Neither States of Jersey Planning and Environment nor Jersey Tourism can accept responsibility for any personal injury. It is recommended that all children should always be accompanied by an adult.
La Corbière Radio Tower
Kingdom Hall
alk W
Les Creux Country Park
A13
St. Brelade
ge Oran
B25
Jersey Lavender Reg’s Garden Farm
B43
Les Landes
e Rout
Corbière Lighthouse
WC
R
y wa ail
B35
Route
WC
ncfief
C113
B36
A12
ue des Mans La R
Route d e Fra
ST. BRELADE
B36
St Peter’s Garden Centre
Jersey Bowl Jersey Rugby & Hockey Clubs B42
B36
B43
S
St Peter's Parish Church & Hall
e
B26
a V NT all ée
B26
B33
a
C104
L'É
C99
Frémont
Wolf's Caves
Vaux
La Corbière
La Moye Golf Course
Quennevais Leisure Centre
La Moye Les Quennevais Common
Les Ormes Leisure Village / Adventure Centre
Airport
B32 B26
aMaizin! Maze Adventure Park & Craft Centre L B69
B32
en
St Mary's Parish Church
St Mary's Parish Hall
C103
Be de
La Pulente
K
K
B41
Ou
La Mare Wine Estate
ST. MARY
WC
C100
ST. JOHN'S BAY
Grande Route de la Trinité
WC
B43
Mo nt à la Brune
eS t.
NT
NT
ey
Va ll
Mourier Bay
es
me Da
B44
es
Sand Dunes
Mont du Jubi lé
Val de La Mare Reservoir
ra
St.Ouen's Manor
La G
A12
B53
Crabbé
Catherine Best Jewellery B32
B40
Rifle Range
Judith Quérée Garden
ST. PETER
C106
La Ville de L'Eglise
M
St Ouen's Parish Hall
B53
Léoville
St Ouen's Ville Parish Church C117 au Bas
C106
Les Mielles Golf Club & Fun Zone B41
WC
B65
ST. OUEN
s
B35
Le Canné
du M arais
C115
Rou te
Barracks Interpretation Centre
ier
Mo ur
Glyn Glass Wear
Devil's Hole Les Reuses
Ronez Go Kart Racing
La Grande Route de la Trinité
Le Braye slip (Le Braye cafe) Sand Dunes
NT
NT
B55
Campsite
Bluestone Studios
C122
lle
Sand Racing
K
NT
St. Ouen's Pond
B35
La Mielle de Morville
La Crabière
z
Ro ute de T rod ez
ele
L
ch
B64
C114
B34
Vin
K
Creux GREVE DE de Lasse LECQ Greve de Lecq
Douet de la Mer
Moto Cross
La Houle
La Rue à la
Petit Port
WC
Kempt Tower
Barge Aground
K
de
Dolmen du Mont Grantez
llais
NT
de M i
B56
La Ro ute
Les Pallières
C105
Creux Gabourel
Creux Gros
d ute Ro
ST. OUEN'S BAY
Jersey Pearl Channel Islands Military Museum WC
Les Pres
L'Étacq
WC
Portinfer
iell re ier
an de La Gr
Low Tide Walk Only
B34
nte
La Villaise B35
Ville la Bas
B55
Rue de la Poi
K
Plémont
Sorel Le Fosse Vicq
L
Grosnez Castle (ruins)
de La R s L ou av te eu rs
aur ent St . L
de
La Grande Ro ute
La Grève au Lançon (Plémont)
l
i
Grosnez
es M
ssi gno
te d
ont R o
Rou
Mie
Le M
s Le
chon
de t. P
Mont Co
l
al W
e nd
d te Rou
La Gr an
a a
de an Gr
uet
nd
Se
La
n Gra tin
a La
l ran de Ro ute
de
ufant La G
te du Pont
de Rue Jean de Ma
de Faldo
t.
u Ro
ue La R Route
te ou eR nd
ar
i
e Ru La
La Grande Route de St .
eR ou t
i La
book online at www.jersey.com
For further information visit:
www.jersey.com Jersey Tourism Liberation Place St Helier Jersey JE1 1BB T 01534 448877 F 01534 448899 email: info@jersey.com Whilst every effort has been made to provide accurate information, the publishers can accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Material in this publication must not be reproduced in any form without the permission of Jersey Tourism. All information correct at time of print – December 2014.
Designed and published by: www.sheardhudson.com Photography: Catherine Best Jewellery, Conrad Yates, Danny Evans, Georgian House, Harbour Gallery, Imperial War Museum, James Carnegie, Jersey Dairy, Jersey Heritage, Jersey Tourism, L’Horizon Beach Hotel & Spa, Longueville Manor, Matt Porteous, NatWest Island Games, Ray Le Pivert, Robert Couldwell, Royal Yacht, Slice & Scoop, Société Jersiaise, St Brelade’s Bay Hotel, The Club Hotel & Spa and The Spa at Grand Jersey Please recycle We ask that when you have finished with your copy of pureJersey you do your bit for the environment by either recycling it or passing it on to a friend.