Delray magazine January/February 2021

That 's

e r o Am OUR LOVE AFFAIR WITH ITALIAN FOOD

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE SET?

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M AC F I N E A R T.CO M

@gregorysfinejewelry

Simply Spectacular!

The Shoppes at Addison Place 16950 Jog Road, Suite 112, Delray Beach, FL 33446

561.638.8522

gregoryfinejewelry.com

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A LEGENDARY & RARE 10CT PEAR SHAPE D FLAWLESS TYPE IIA GIA

ABOVE & BEYOND EXTRAORDINARY

WE MEAN BUSINESS. L A RG E I M P O R TA N T W H I T E , D F L AW L E S S , N AT U R A L FA N C Y C O LO R D I A M O N D S & H I G H J E W E L S B Y DAV I D RO S E N B E RG

C A L L TO DAY TO S C H E D U L E YO U R P R I VAT E A P P O I N T M E N T

5 6 1 . 4 7 7. 5 4 4 4 • R O S E N B E R G D I A M O N D S . C O M B O C A G R A N D B U I L D I N G • D O W N T O W N B O C A R AT O N 2 3 3 S O U T H F E D E R A L H I G H WA Y , B O C A R A T O N , F L 3 3 4 3 2

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MADE IN ITALY

READY-TO-WEAR & ACCESSORIES BAGS | SHOES | SCARVES | WATCHES 522 NE 2ND STREET DELRAY BEACH, FL. 33483 561-865-5224 ISABELLAKRON.COM

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55 14 editor’s letter

After nearly a year of coronavirus reports, overflowing hospitals, business closings and a fractious election … we still have pasta. The editor reflects on why, even in a plague year, Italian food is more comforting than a vaccine.

BY MARIE SPEED

17 hot list

Like dolphins, Old School Square concertgoers now have a “pod” of their own, while the Delray Beach Public Library’s virtual escape rooms make surviving the zombie apocalypse a mouse-click away. Plus, we peruse a local vintage boutique with a familial name, take a hike in one of the region’s most fertile Natural Areas and—thanks, COVID!—finally take up knitting.

BY CHRISTINA WOOD

24 top 5

The gradual return of arts and entertainment brings a “Moody” British Invader, a political comedy troupe, al fresco opera and outsider art to culture-starved locals.

BY JOHN THOMASON

26 style

Remember when “accessorizing” meant more than sporting a colorful face mask? Wipe last year’s slate clean and start afresh for a fashion-forward 2021— with help from five unique retailers in Delray Beach and Boca Raton.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AARON BRISTOL

30 up close

Despite a sluggish economy, a small business with an international inventory continues to wave its flag(s). Plus, an arts leader well-versed in event planning prepares to launch the Palm Beach Poetry Festival into the virtual age.

contents january/february 2021

34 dine

An inventive Pineapple Grove restaurateur pays tribute to her mother’s floral name, dishing up hearty Italian and Nouveau American favorites in a homey atmosphere.

BY LYNN KALBER

36 west side story

The neighborhood development project formerly known as The Set has suffered years of delays owing to the vagaries of local politics—to the detriment of the city’s most racially diverse residents.

BY RANDY SCHULTZ

42 mangia!

Our comprehensive ode to Italian cuisine celebrates every facet of this ubiquitous Delray Beach staple, as we explore regional differences, local chef secrets, reader favorites and much more. (Warning: Reading may increase daily carb intake.)

66 out & about

Delray’s benevolence has been on full display during these challenging times. Here’s a look at a few of our most prominent helpers.

BY JAMES BIAGIOTTI

75 dining guide

Our review-driven dining guide showcases great restaurants in Delray and beyond.

BY LYNN KALBER

80 community connection

Disillusioned from the cold world of financial services, a former business leader reinvents herself as an environmental problem solver—alongside a Wise Tribe of fellow change-makers.

BY RICH POLLACK

BY JAMES BIAGIOTTI, MARY MALOUF, MARIE SPEED AND JOHN THOMASON

55 home

How trends in embroidery are helping interior designers thread the needle between ordinary and extraordinary.

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BY BRAD MEE

BY JOHN THOMASON

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group editor-in-chief marie speed managing editor john thomason web editor james biagiotti senior art director lori pierino graphic designer oscar saavedra photographer aaron bristol production manager joanna gazzaneo

2 great locations: downtown and the beach

contributing writers robin hodes, lynn kalber, mary malouf, rich pollack, randy schultz, christina wood director of advertising nicole ruth manager of business development reba larney advertising consultants sherry goodman-ash, gail eagle, karen kintner, bruce klein jr., tanya plath director of community relations olivia hollaus

561/997-8683 (ph) • 561/997-8909 (fax) bocamag.com editor@bocamag.com (editorial)

525 East Atlantic Avenue, Delray Beach 561-276-4123 800-552-2363 thecolonyhotel.com COLONY_HOTEL_DBM_0320.indd 1

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Delray Beach magazine is published five times a year by JES Media.

The entire contents of Delray Beach magazine are copyrighted and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of the publisher. Delray Beach magazine accepts no responsibility for the return of unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs and assumes no liability for products or services advertised herein. Delray Beach magazine reserves the right to edit, rewrite or refuse material and is not responsible for products. Please refer to corporate masthead.

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SERVICES DIRECTORY Delray Beach magazine is published five times a year, with bi-monthly issues in-season and combined issues in the summertime. If you have any questions or comments regarding our magazine, call us at 561/997-8683. We’d love to hear from you.

[ subscription, copy purchasing and distribution ]

For any changes or questions regarding your subscription, to purchase back issues, or inquire about distribution points, ask for our subscriptions department at 877/553-5363.

[ advertising resources ]

Take advantage of Delray Beach’s prime advertising space—put your ad dollars to work in our award-winning publication. For more information, contact our sales department (nicole@bocamag.com).

[ custom publishing ]

Create a magazine tailored to fit the needs and character of your business/organization. Ideal for promotions, special events, introduction of new services and/or locations, etc. Contact Marie Speed (editor@bocamag.com).

[ story queries/web queries ]

Delray Beach magazine values the concerns and interests of our readers. Story queries for the print version of Delray Beach should be submitted by email to Marie Speed (editor@bocamag.com) or John Thomason (john. thomason@bocamag.com). Submit information/queries regarding our website to james@bocamag.com. We try to respond to all queries, but due to the large volume that we receive, this may not be possible.

[ letters ]

Your thoughts and comments are important to us. All letters to the editor may be edited for style, grammar and length. We reserve the right to withhold any letters deemed inappropriate for publication. Send letters to the address listed below, or to Marie Speed (editor@bocamag.com).

[ calendar ]

Where to go, what to do and see in Delray Beach. Please submit information regarding fundraisers, art openings, plays, readings, concerts, dance or other performances to managing editor John Thomason (john.thomason@bocamag.com). Deadline for entries in an upcoming calendar section is three months before publication (e.g., to list an event in March/April, submit info by December 20).

[ dining guide ]

Our independent reviews of restaurants in Delray Beach.

A fine, reliable resource for residents and tourists. For more information, contact Marie Speed.

[ out & about ]

A photo collage of social gatherings and events in Delray Beach. All photos submitted should be clearly identified and accompanied by a brief description of the event (who, what, where, when); photos will not be returned. Email images to people@bocamag.com. Or mail photos to: “Out & About” Delray Beach magazine 1000 Clint Moore Road, Suite 103 Boca Raton, FL 33487

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president/publisher margaret mary shuff group editor-in-chief marie speed controller jeanne greenberg customer services/video editor david shuff

Christy L. Stone Owner of LUCKY GIRL BATH & BEAUTY NATURAL PRODUCTS Wholesale and Retail.

Licensed Esthetician, Beauty & Wellness Advisor with 28 years experience.

1000 Clint Moore Road, Suite 103 Boca Raton, FL 33487 561/997-8683 bocamag.com publishers of Boca Raton Delray Beach Mizner’s Dream Worth Avenue Greater Boca Raton Chamber of Commerce Annual Florida Style & Design Salt Lake, Utah Bride and Groom Utah Style & Design

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best use of photography best custom magazine (Mizner’s Dream)

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best overall magazine (Boca Raton) best feature writing (The Gunshine State, Boca Raton) best in-depth reporting (Of Human Bondage, Boca Raton)

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best column (City Watch, Boca Raton) best department (Backstage Pass, Boca Raton) best overall online presence

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Simply the Prettiest Jewelry

204 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, FL 33444 • 561.272.6654 1185 Third Street South, Naples, FL 34102 • 239.643.8900 Mashpee Commons, Cape Cod, MA 02649 • 508.477.3900

U N I Q U E B O U T I Q U E J E W E L R Y . C O M

When the Moon Hits Your Eye…

2021: the year we learned to honor the small things

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nd then it was 2021. What a year this has been, and it’s been easy to be caught up in the alternate reality of COVID, elections, 27 hurricanes and whatever else has been thrown at us. It’s not easy to plan for magazines when life changes with 24-hour news cycles, daily COVID reports, closings, openings, drama at city hall and all the rest— which is why the default setting often reverts to the small things, the ones we still love, the everyday kinds of diversions and points of light that we’ve had to cling to throughout this roller coaster of a year.

And happily, we’ve all found one of them to be food—cooking it, photographing it, experimenting with it as we plot takeout strategies, wait for green markets to open, discover delivery services, go through the endless banana bread and sourdough drills. In this issue we celebrate our love affair with Italian food—and we have a big one going on, based on the sheer number of Italian restaurants between Boca and Lake Worth Beach alone. People in Delray now believe Death By Pizza is the holy grail of Sunday supper; we are arguing the merits of meatballs; we are either pro-eggplant or against it altogether; we debate Italian vocabulary terms like “sauce” vs. “gravy.”

I have no idea why South Florida is so obsessed with Italian food, but I get it. Pasta is my downfall, my comfort food, my everything-is-going-to-be-all-right food. And there you have it: Honing in on the little things we love is one thing that has kept us whole these many months, and for that, I am grateful.

And the correct term is sauce.

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FIVE (MORE)THINGS I LOVE ABOUT DELRAY [ 1 ]

The Lake Ida dog park

[ 2 ]

T he Downtown Development Authority—50 years strong

[ 3 ]

The Cuban flan at Enigma

[ 4 ]

The Girls Strawberry U-Pick

[ 5 ]

A walk through Wakodahatchee on a winter day

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BETHESDA HOSPITAL EAST BETHESDA HOSPITAL WEST BOCA RATON REGIONAL HOSPITAL

NEST of DELRAY VINTAGE and HOME We buy, sell and consign.

We specialize in refinished and reupholstered vintage furniture from mid-century modern to palm beach classics with lots of rattan and wicker mixed in. We now carry custom pillows and local art.

817 NE 6th Avenue, Delray Beach, Fl 33483 (561) 900-7181 Monday-Saturday

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10:30 am- 4 pm

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Sunday-Closed

/NestOfDelray

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nestdelray.com

@NestDelray

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info@nestofdelray.com

hot list NEWS AND NOTES FROM DELRAY BEACH

A Cooper’s Hawk at the Seacrest Scrub

Winter With A Twist

There’s still plenty to do with our New Normal on; here are a few diversions

BY CHRISTINA WOOD january/february 2021

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[ hot list ] A SPIRITED SELECTION Joslin Kryjcir named her eclectic boutique in honor of her grandmother, Tess, who had a knack for breathing new life into things. It’s nice to think her spirit lives on in the shop’s colorful whirl of classic, contemporary and whimsical, which includes sparkling crowns and plump pillows as well as born-again furnishings, vintage jewelry and unusual costume jewelry. You’ll also find the work of local artists, including Boynton Beachbased potter Deb Gordon, who makes the charming handrolled and hand-stamped dishes displayed on a shelf. Whether it’s revamped vintage lighting or craft kits, “I want to inspire creativity,” Kryjcir says. We think Tess would have approved.

154 N.E. Fifth Ave., Delray Beach, 646/498-8867, vintagetess.com

Marjorie Waldo

THE CULTURE OF COOL

It seemed like it would never end, but 2020 is (finally!) over. We made it! Time to give thanks— and a gratitude journal is a great way to do just that. You’ll find a generous selection of handsome journals at Hand’s Office and Art Supply, which has been around since 1934. (And you thought you’d been in Delray a long time!) You might want to shop for your Valentine while you’re there. Hand’s is a great source for art supplies, both whimsical and Floridathemed gifts, as well as greeting cards. 325 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561/2764194, handsdelray.com

No need to get dressed up to attend Culture & Cocktails this year. The Cultural Council for Palm Beach County’s annual series has traditionally been held in Palm Beach but, like so many other events, is virtual this year.

“Cultural Dynamos,” the second event in this year’s series, will be held on Feb. 1 at 6 p.m. and will feature what promises to be a fascinating conversation between Delray’s own Marjorie Waldo, president and CEO of Arts Garage; Douglas C. Evans, executive director of the Chamber Music Society of Palm Beach; and Dave Lawrence, president and CEO of the Council. The event is free for Cultural Council members and nonmembers alike. 561/4712901, palmbeachculture.com

AARON BRISTOL

GIVE THANKS

GET OUT!

The Delray Beach Public Library has taken escape rooms into the virtual realm.

“It wasn’t easy, but to date we have nine escape rooms with themes on the Middle Ages, zombies, pop art and more,” says Teen Librarian Craig Santiago, who developed the online activities with the help of Breakout EDU. “Our escape rooms have been getting popular across the country in California and New Mexico!” The escape rooms were designed with teens in mind, but don’t let that stop you from getting in on the fun. “They are so creative, rich with content and so much fun for everyone,” says Library Director Karen Ronald. 100 W. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561/266-0194, delraylibrary.org

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Gopher tortoise at Seacrest Scrub Natural Area

BEST FOOT FORWARD

If you resolved to immerse yourself in nature this year, there’s no need to wait for the weekend. Enjoy a peaceful stroll through the Seacrest Scrub Natural Area on your lunch hour. A precious pocket of wilderness located just a few short steps off the beaten path, the 54-acre preserve features some of the county’s oldest natural habitat—and some of its rarest. The Seacrest Scrub is part of the Great Florida Bird and Wildlife Trail, too, so you may find some company as you wander. In particular, keep your eyes out for one of the threatened gopher tortoises that call the sandy scrub home. 3400 S. Seacrest Blvd., Boynton Beach

KNIT WITS Sick of sourdough? Research has shown that knitting can lower your heart rate, ease depression and anxiety, slow the onset of dementia and distract from chronic pain. In fact, knitting may provide many of the same stress-relieving benefits as meditation. If that’s not enough to get you knitting and purling, the selection of delicious yarns and custom patterns at Just Imaginknit might do the trick. If you’re ready to give it a try, you’ll also find all the help and encouragement you could want at what is billed as the “friendliest knit shop in South Florida.” 6663 Lake Worth Road, #B, Lake Worth Beach, 561/433-3444, justimaginknitfl. com

Old School Square with pod seating

AFTER DARK:

OSS PODS UP Arts organizations all across the country are coming up with creative ways for us to safely enjoy the pleasures of live performances. Right here in Delray, music has returned to the Pavilion stage at Old School Square thanks to the innovative use of “pod” seating. A pod is somewhat like a private box that will allow you and a few friends to experience the joy of live music in the open air—while remaining safe and socially distanced from others. Premium and VIP packages take it up a notch with the addition of private tables and bar service. 51 N. Swinton Ave., Delray Beach, 561/243-7922, oldschoolsquare.org/the-pavilion

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[ hot list ]

SPOTLIGHT: CAT DALBERG

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ormally, staff members at Delray Beach Medical Center wouldn’t worry much if they had a headache or a bit of a sore throat. But, as we all know, these days are far from normal. If a nurse’s aide is worried that her aching head might be related to COVID-19 or a respiratory technician is concerned about an accidental needle prick, they head to Cat Dalberg. For 20 years, Dalberg has served as the employee health nurse at the hospital. “I’m basically like the school nurse,” she says.

WHAT SHE LIKES MOST ABOUT HER JOB

I like the interaction with the [hospital employees]. I like to relieve a little bit of that tension for them. I feel like that’s our role as employee health nurses—to give the staff that reassurance. Being here for 20 years, they’re comfortable with me. They’ll come down and sit for a minute and just get that break. It’s kind of nice to know that they’re going to go back up with a smile on their face.

HEALTH TIPS FOR PEOPLE THIS WINTER

AARON BRISTOL

The things that you would want to do in in the winter months are things that you would want to do to avoid COVID: Boost your immune system; you know, vitamin C, vitamin D—get a little bit of sunshine when you can— drink lots of fluids, wash your hands, wear your mask.

Honestly, I think a lot of people have realized the power of the mask.

FAVORITE PLACE TO GO IN DELRAY BEACH

I like to just be on the Avenue. I like to sit and have a beer and watch. I’m a people watcher. Sometimes when I have time to kill, I’ll just go walk up and down the Avenue just to get the exercise.

FAVORITE THING TO DO IN DELRAY

I always volunteer for the Delray Affair—or any of the Delray-related events that we have.

WHAT MAKES DELRAY SO SPECIAL

I’ve always felt that Delray has a small-town atmosphere.

It doesn’t feel like a big city. One of the things I like about Delray, too, is that you can sit outside, especially now that we’re allowed to get out and have something to eat.

CLAM UP It’s time to overcome our differences and come together. So, whether you prefer New England, Manhattan or even Rhode Island (yes, it’s a thing), be sure to join the celebration of National Clam Chowder Day on February 25. Stir up a pot of your own favorite at home, pull up a chair at Brighton Beach Bagel in Delray Marketplace—where they make their clam chowder from a secret family recipe—or get fresh chowder to-go from Old Dixie Seafood in Boca Raton.

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A collection of vintage and new furniture, and home decor items from around the globe, along with an extensive collection of precious Indian jewelry

154 NE 5th Ave. Delray Beach By appointment only 11am-5pm • 646.498.8867

/vintagetessdb

Sunday State

157 NE 2nd Avenue Delray Beach, FL SundayStateStyle

[ calendar ] B Y J O H N T H O M A S O N

ANGELA R. NEWMAN

MICHAEL M. REYNA

Top 5

Welcome back the arts with a Moody Bluesman, political humor and al fresco opera

[5]

[4]

[3]

“Charles and Jackson Pollock”

The Capitol Steps

Denny Laine

Where: Society of the Four Arts, 100 Four Arts Plaza, Palm Beach When: Jan. 30-March 28 Cost: $10 Contact: 561/655-7227, fourarts.org He might not be a household name like his mercurial brother Jackson, but Charles Pollock, the eldest of this creative clan, cultivated a diverse artistic practice that spanned decades.

Arguably more adaptable than his influential sibling, Charles forged his career as a social realist painter in the 1940s, mastered figural drawings on graphite, and eventually came around to Abstract Expressionism in the years leading to his death, in 1988. This exhibition, originated by the Society of the Four Arts, features 70 paintings and works on paper by “Pollock the Elder,” as well as an illuminating gallery of works by Jackson Pollock that delve beyond the furious drip paintings for which he is most known.

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Where: Kravis Center, 701 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach When: Feb. 26-March 14 Cost: $45 Contact: 561/832-7469, kravis.org Lordy, can the news cycle use a laugh! The Capitol Steps’ annual winter residency at the Kravis Center, assuming it goes on as scheduled, arrives following a year of political pandemonium and unrest, a public health crisis and an economic recession, none of which lend themselves to humorous headlines. But if any troupe can find the comic lining in clouds of tragedy, it’s the Capitol Steps, the collective of theatrically trained singers/actors celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. The Steps’ sets are a polished combination of “SNL”-style sketches, song parodies and monologues heavy on spoonerisms and other Catskills-style wordplay. They have been plying their trade of nonpartisan satire across 43 albums, and are living proof, one hopes, that even in a time of political blood sport, we can still laugh at each other’s ideological foibles. I for one look forward to seeing Anthony Fauci belt out a scratchy standard, and to experience the Capitol Steps’ take on the Great Mask Divide.

Where: Arts Garage, 94 N.E. Second Ave., Delray Beach When: Jan. 10, 7 p.m.

Cost: $35-$45 Contact: 561/450-6357, artsgarage.org English singer, songwriter and multiinstrumentalist Denny Laine has haunted the halls of rock ‘n’ roll since 1957, from co-founding the melodic mop-toppers the Moody Blues to recording with Wings for the entirety of its tenure.

In between, he worked on lesser-known cult acts such the Electric String Band and Ginger Baker’s Air Force, but it’s his work with Paul and Linda McCartney for which he is most remembered, including his co-writing credit on the No. 1 holiday favorite “Mull of Kintyre.” On this “Songs and Stories” tour, the spry 75-year-old shares intimate renditions of tunes from his illustrious career as well as revealing yarns from his tenure in showbiz.

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Painting from “An Irresistible Urge to Create” show

January/February 2021 [2]

[1]

“An Irresistible Urge to Create”

Palm Beach Opera Outdoor Festival

Where: Boca Raton Museum of Art, 501 Plaza Real, Boca Raton When: Jan. 26-Sept. 6 Cost: $10-$12 Contact: 561/392-2500, bocamuseum.org Jean-Michel Basquiat was once a bona fide “outsider” artist, creating transient graffiti emblems and selling his works for $10 on the streets of New York. In 2017—long-dead, of course—Basquiat became the highest-selling artist of all-time, with an untitled work netting $110.5 million at auction. The 86 pieces comprising “An Irresistible Urge to Create: The Monroe Family Collection of Florida Outsider Art” showcases the once and future Basquiats of the Sunshine State, the un-repped, un-résuméd folk and street artists creating dynamic work outside the traditional art market. It’s one of three exhibitions opening Jan. 26; you can also experience “Glasstress II,” the sequel to the museum’s 2016 exhibit of monumental glassbased artworks, many completed on the famous Italian islands of Murano.

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Where: iTHINK Financial Amphitheatre, 601-7 Sansburys Way, West Palm Beach When: Feb. 19-27 Cost: $20 and up Contact: 561/833-7888, pbopera.org For the first time, the opera is going al fresco.

Typically, Palm Beach Opera hosts a three-show season throughout the winter and spring from the confines of the Kravis Center, but these are anything but typical times. Instead, the company will produce three operas in February alone, for two performances each. They include some of the most beloved works in the operatic canon: “La Boheme,” about bohemian artists in Paris’ Latin Quarter (Feb. 19 and 24); “The Magic Flute,” Mozart’s beastly fantasy (Feb. 21 and 26); and “Pagliacci,” a meditation on the connection between life and art that is set among a traveling theatre troupe in Italy (Feb. 23 and 27). All three will be performed concert-style with minimal staging—and, yes, those golden-voiced actors will be placed at least six feet apart. So will you; the iTHINK Amphitheatre at the South Florida Fairgrounds will be limited to 30 percent of its usual 5,000-patron capacity.

Outdoor opera festival at iTHINK Financial Amphitheatre

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[ style ] Chloe bag, $1,890, from Saks Fifth Avenue; jean jacket, $92, skirt, $72, Chick-fil-a diet t-shirt, $42, all from Sunday State Style, Dolce Vita tennis shoes, $125, from Wish & Shoes; moonstone gold bangle, $640, from Barbara Katz; blue stone and pearl bangle, $275, blue stone bangle, $85, all from Unique Boutique.

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2021

Style Check!

Celebrate a brand new year with a fresh new look.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY AARON BRISTOL

Pink lucite cube purse, $60, jelly purse, $42, red earrings, $36, multicolored earrings, $36, all from Sunday State Style; scarf, $92, from Wish & Shoes; rings, $22 each, pineapple earrings, $22, all from Vintage Tess.

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[ style ] Camo bag, $125, from Unique Boutique; Dolce Vita tennis shoes, $125, jeans, $118, shirt, $132, all from Wish & Shoes, camo jacket, $225, from Sunday State Style.

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Oman purse, $275, necklace, $800, both from Unique Boutique; scarf, $40, from Barbara Katz; bangles (left to right) $98, $39, $250, mask, $8, earrings, $595, all from Vintage Tess.

UNIQUE BOUTIQUE: 204 E. Atlantic Ave., 561/2726654, uniqueboutiquejewelry.com VINTAGE TESS, 154 N.E. Fifth Ave., Delray Beach, 646/498-8867 SUNDAY STATE STYLE: 157 N.E. 2nd Ave., Delray Beach, 561/455-2656, sundaystate.com STYLISTS /ART DIRECTOR: OLIVIA H0LLAUS, LORI PIERINO

BARBARA KATZ, Glades Plaza, 2240 N.W. 19th St., #601, Boca Raton, 561/391-1066, barbarakatz.com WISH & SHOES, 16850 Jog Road, #112, Delray Beach, 561/638-7700, wishandshoes.com

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[ up close ]

BY JOHN THOMASON

Susan R. Williamson

Inside the Palm Beach Poetry Festival’s virtual reality

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ormally, by the third week of January, Delray Beach is a veritable hive of versifiers. For some 16 years, poets both professional and amateur, from around the corner and around the world, have descended on Old School Square for the Palm Beach Poetry Festival, sharing stanzas and insights and emotions. The 2020 festival saw the largest waiting list that Executive Director Susan R. Williamson has ever compiled—an encouraging sign for the sustainability of a niche art form.

“I think it’s one of the top festivals in the country,” says Williamson, who has helmed the event since 2014. “We tend to think of it as a local event, but it really is a national and international event. … When we started, we were one of the few festivals that was happening in the winter.

That makes it very attractive for people, and also very expensive for people. It makes it quite an investment for your poetry life. But it’s really worth it.”

For 2021’s festival, some of that financial calculus has changed. Last July, when Florida’s coronavirus infections spiked to unforeseen levels, the festival team made the difficult decision to present this January’s event as an entirely virtual gathering. “First we waited,” Williamson recalls. “We thought, maybe this will blow over, and by January people would be ready to travel again.

“At first I thought, I don’t want to do [virtual],” she adds. “I want the real thing or nothing. And then I realized that I didn’t have any choice.”

If anyone can manage this transition, it’s Williamson, who has a background in both event planning and poetry. Her poems have been published in at least 10 esteemed journals, and her 2014 chapbook, Burning After Dark, won the Hannah Kahn Poetry Foundation’s 25th Anniversary Chapbook Competition. She’s also coordinated events for organizations such as Club Med and the University of Virginia, and knows how to pivot in a crisis. (A Virginia native, Williamson moved to Boca Raton in 2006 with her husband, who died in 2020, and she hosted her first Palm Beach Poetry Festival workshop in 2007.)

At the time of this interview, in early fall, Williamson says her team

is “almost there” in terms of configuring the festival’s website for Zoom integration, and arranging the event’s six-day content onto one easily navigable page. The learning curve has been steep. Headlining poet Gregory Orr was scheduled to perform his work on the Crest Theatre stage with musical accompaniment from the indie-folk trio the Parkington Sisters; now, Williamson is trying to coordinate this mini-concert online, with poet, musicians and attendees in their respective Zoom hovels.

Workshop attendees face their own challenges unique to a virtual festival—interruptions from dogs and kids and cellphones, the potential for technical glitches. And, as Williamson says, there’s something intangible in the connection of physical bodies in a contained space.

“You come to be read. You come to work. You come to have a time where what you’re doing is honored by people that have a common interest, and someone who’s there to support you and can bring new eyes to what you’re doing,” Williamson says. “And that’s not missing from Zoom, but the immediacy is missing.

And the ability to walk out the door after you’re done and hug somebody for what they said, or to speak quietly to somebody.

Some of that is lost. … There is nothing like a huge room full of 200 poets. That’s a very rarified atmosphere.”

The benefits of a virtual festival include cost—no guest poets need to be flown in and housed, and workshop prices for attendees have been reduced—and global accessibility for anyone with an internet connection to attend, should their applications be approved. If they’re selected, they will receive intimate workshop experiences which, like the in-person events, will be capped at 12 people plus the host and administrators.

Williamson is already planning the 2022 festival with the expectation that it will return to the OSS campus. “I think we have a great opportunity to, when it’s time, have our festival in Delray Beach in January once again, and everybody will be safe, and it will be fabulous,” she says. “Our tagline is, ‘poetry brings us together.’ Right now, that’s what we need to do—find ways to come together. I’m not that crazy about the sterility of the arts online, but I can’t live with the absence of the arts.”

“Our tagline is ‘poetry brings us together.’ Right now, that’s what we need to do—find ways to come together... I can’t live with the absence of the arts.”

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IF YOU GO

AARON BRISTOL

WHAT: 17th Annual (Virtual) Palm Beach Poetry Festival WHEN: Jan. 18-23 COST: $10-$15 per event CONTACT: 561/868-2063, palmbeachpoetryfestival.org

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[ up close ] B Y J O H N T H O M A S O N

Tricia Dale and Alana Karmiol Despite pandemic challenges, a family-owned business continues to plant its flag

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n South Florida, the “season” means one thing: the typical period of bustle and balmy weather from November through April.

In the niche world of flag sales, however, peak season has long passed by the first nip of winter.

“Our season starts maybe the end of March, when weather starts to break and people need to replace their flags,” says Tricia Dale, cofounder of Delray Beach-based distributor Flags.com. “It continues on through May and June, into July 4. … Christmas is not a big season for us. We survive because of the summer months, through the end of September.”

In other words, Dale’s business this past year was, like everything else, directly impacted by the pandemic, as the world eked its way through less-festive celebrations of the holidays keeping Dale’s flags waving—Flag Day, Memorial Day, Mothers Day and especially Independence Day. Of the handful of vendors that supply Flags.com with its merchandise, one of them shut down in the wake of COVID, tightening the supply chain. Customers who did order flags last summer had to contend with unprecedented shipping delays from the Postal Service.

Yet judging by the company’s reviews on Trustpilot, where it earns an average 4.9 out of 5 for customer satisfaction, its buyers are more than happy with its service. “I think our reviews are in despite of what’s been happening,” says Alana Karmiol, vice-president, and Dale’s daughter.

“We email everybody, and some people are patient, and some people are not,” adds Dale. “But we try to keep people up to date, which is something nobody else does. If you order from Amazon, they don’t call you to say, ‘we’re having a problem with your order,’ or ‘gee, you know we offer free shipping over $50, but you included shipping; we’re taking it off for you.’ We go above and beyond.”

Flags.com can offer such personalized service because it retains the same mom-and-pop mentality that colored its founding, in 1990, as a side hustle for Dale and her husband, Allan (he died in 2004), in response to a personal need: They wanted a flagpole in front of their Maryland home but couldn’t find one. So they started a business, then called Regal Flags &

Poles, out of their basement, expecting the venture to be a hobby as they transitioned out of real estate. “Instead, we retired from real estate, and this went from being a part-time business to a full-time business,” Dale says.

In prudent anticipation of the internet boom, the Dales purchased their enviable domain name in 1999, but it wasn’t until Sept. 11, 2001, and the subsequent spike in American flag purchases, that the business became an industry leader requiring its own warehouse. The Stars and Stripes remain Flags.com’s best seller, accounting for 30 percent of its flag purchases. But with an inventory of 10,000 items, almost all of them U.S.-made, the company’s stock is deep enough to satisfy the most esoteric needs, from sports teams to astrological signs to all religious denominations, states and nations.

In the past year, it has shipped flags around the world, and it has distributed custom flags to clients from Lockheed Martin to Krispy Kreme, Yahoo to Hooters. Flags trend with the news cycle, so 2020 saw boosts from flags honoring health care workers, Black Lives Matter, the U.S. Space Force and the Trump campaign.

For the past 17 years, these orders have shipped from the company’s Delray Beach warehouse; the family moved here from Maryland to be closer to Dale’s mother, who lived in Boca, and they find the city a “good fit,” says Karmiol, for their 2,200-square-foot facility near Atlantic and I-95.

As an online business, Flags.com never shuttered during the pandemic, but the virus has had a seismic effect on the owners’ personal lives. When I spoke to Dale and Karmiol on Zoom, in September, the mother and daughter hadn’t seen each other in person for six months. Dale is in a vulnerable age bracket, and wasn’t about to take any chances, remaining in quarantine save for visits to the office.

Yet sales, despite the challenges of the virus, have continued, sometimes outstripping supply—a testament to the enduring power of nylon and thread.

“People like sharing what they believe in and what they love,” Karmiol says. “People are proud of something that they’re behind, and [flags are] an easy way of showing it without having to run around tapping people on the shoulder and saying, ‘hey, I’m an Aquarius!’”

In the past year, Delray’s Flags.com has distributed custom flags to clients such as Lockheed Martin and Krispy Kreme, Yahoo and Hooter’s.

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AARON BRISTOL

cutline Alana Karmiol

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B Y LY N N K A L B E R

LIBBY VOLGYES

[ dine ]

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Rose’s Daughter

Left, veal chop, and above, lamb meatballs from Rose’s Daughter

This cozy Pineapple Grove restaurant is home cooking at its best

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“

t’s a lagniappe.” That was how the rich bacon jus flavor in the Monet-colored lobster risotto was described to me—a gift to the diner.

It could have described the entire meal, because while sitting outside on the comfortable patio at Rose’s Daughter, our evening was flawless from appetizer to dessert.

Not that I was surprised, because I am also a fan of owner/chef Suzanne Perrotto’s other restaurant on the same street, Brulé Bistro. Rose’s Daughter opened in mid-2019, and the Italian trattoria specializes in house-made pasta, pizza, bread and desserts.

The mushroom arancini ($9) was sprinkled with pecorino and surrounded by a pepper coulis that added just the right amount of spice. We asked for bread ($5) and found it was made from the same dough as the pizza, nicely puffed alongside olive oil and ricotta butter.

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The Maine lobster risotto ($45) had a seared scallop and shrimp along with peas, arugula, bacon jus and lobster roe. It was rich, luxurious, tender and tasted just as it looked—extraordinary. An escargot bourguignonne ($25) was accompanied by parsnip agnolotti, confit tomato, roasted garlic butter and arugula bechamel. Again, the senses were satisfied by both beautiful plating and a combination of well-done flavors.

Dessert was tiramisu ($12), a decadently deep dish with caramel, cocoa powder, chocolate sauce and more chocolate. A scoop of corn gelato ($4.50) was refreshing and sweet. Light reggae/pop music drifted from the speakers, and social distancing was nicely observed, as was an enforced mask requirement, which had to be pointed out to a few would-be patrons.

Diners can be assured of the same quality at Rose’s Daughter that they’ve experienced at Brulé Bistro since 2008, thanks to Suzanne Perrotto’s expectations of quality.

ROSE’S DAUGHTER 169 N.E. Second Ave. Delray Beach 561/271-9423

PARKING: Street or parking garage HOURS: Tues.-Sat., 4 to 10 p.m.; no reservations taken PRICES: entrees, $15-$45 WEBSITE: rosesdaughterdelray.com

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The redevelopment of West Atlantic is still in limbo—after years

BY RANDY SCHULTZ

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“I’m disappointed that it became such a political thing, calling it ‘The Set.’ [The process] “was the most inclusive I’ve ever been involved with.”

—Kristyn Cox n October, the Delray Beach City Commission finally approved The Set Transformation Plan.

By then, however, the updated document had a different name—the West Atlantic Master Plan. Something as subtle as a name change says much about why progress has been so slow on helping an area that is home to the roughly 10 percent of Delray Beach residents who have not seen their neighborhoods improve over the last three decades like those in the rest of the city.

That approval could have come in 2018. Instead, the city lost two years. Blame much of the delay on recent city politics. You can’t talk about the West Atlantic plan without talking about politics.

First, however, let’s get to the basics of The Set. In general, we’re talking about the area bounded by Swinton Avenue, Interstate 95, Lake Ida Road and Southwest 10th Street. Atlantic

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Avenue divides the Northwest and Southwest neighborhoods.

On the north is the West Settlers Historic District, where AfricanAmericans and Afro-Caribbeans arrived in the late 19th century. The community hub is Pompey Park, named for the late civil rights activist and educator C. Spencer Pompey. Nearby are Spady Elementary and the Spady Cultural Heritage Museum, named for educator Solomon David Spady.

On the south is Toussaint L’Overture High School, named for the general who led the Haitian Revolution in 1803. Many of Delray Beach’s Haitian-Americans live in the Southwest neighborhood.

There’s also the aforementioned Village Academy, which was designed to serve the neighborhood’s minority students, and Catherine Strong Park. It’s named for the woman who, as mayor in 1956, cast the only vote on the city commission against de-annexing the “colored” neighborhoods that we’re discussing. The state refused to approve the annexation.

Delray Beach had been a “sundown town.” Black residents west of the Third Ave. tracks had to be off the streets at dark. As late as 1991, Delray Beach still had a police chief —Charles Kilgore—whom minority residents saw as hostile and critics said allowed open discrimination against Black officers. In 1996, six

of them won $760,000 from the city in a lawsuit against the department.

Today, residents of the Northwest/Southwest Neighborhoods are poorer and less educated than those in the rest of Delray Beach. More than 90 percent of workers leave the neighborhoods for their jobs, while outsiders hold more than 90 percent of the jobs within the area.

So this transformation is not just about new buildings. It’s about new attitudes.

For nearly a decade, Kristyn Cox was the community redevelopment agency’s liaison with community groups as the CRA shaped The Set Transformation Plan. The CRA has primary responsibility within city government for West Atlantic. The CRA is the area’s largest landowner, and the Northwest/Southwest Neighborhoods comprise roughly 50 percent of the area within the CRA boundaries.

Cox left the CRA and co-founded Thrive Delray, a community networking company. The fight over West Atlantic, Cox said, “is a power situation.” As seen in that attempt 60 years ago to jettison the neighborhoods, “structural racism,” Cox says, is at work. Residents have believed that the city wanted to tell them what their neighborhoods should look like.

That mistrust intensified in the late 1980s, just after the city created the CRA to eradicate blight.

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CRA Director Bill Finley essentially proposed that the city destroy the Northwest/Southwest Neighborhoods to save them.

Finley left, and the city tried a different approach. It put public projects on West Atlantic in hopes of seeding private investment.

Among those projects were the south county courthouse, the police and fire departments and the tennis center.

The catalyst was the Decade of Excellence bond program, which voters approved in 1989. It worked on one side of Swinton, but not on the other.

Starting in the early-to-mid 1990s, East Atlantic thrived as restaurants, bars and other attractions—such as Arts Garage and art galleries—turned the street into a regional draw. Townhomes and apartments off the avenue followed, creating new neighborhoods like Pineapple Grove and SofA. The city narrowed Federal Highway to make the area more walkable and even more conducive to residents and clubbers.

West Atlantic did draw some private projects, notably the Fairfield Inn. The CRA used some of its land for affordable housing. The agency’s current priority is redevelopment of the three blocks east of the Fairfield Inn.

Mostly, though, it was more planning. The city commission first adopted the West Atlantic Redevelopment Plan in 1995. The commission updated it five years later, stressing neighborhood preservation, and added a plan for the Southwest Neighborhood three years later.

In 2016, the city and CRA sought to combine all existing plans into one master document for the Northwest/Southwest Neighborhoods. Though conceptual, it would be a guide, with the CRA in charge of following it.

Which brings us back to politics and to the city commission meeting of April 3, 2018.

That night, the city commission abolished the independent CRA board, whose members the commission had appointed. It was the first meeting of the new commission, with Shelly Petrolia running the meeting as the newly elected mayor. A day before the meeting, the issue wasn’t even on the agenda.

The board now consists of the five commissioners and two commission-appointed members. One could argue that putting elected officials in charge—as Boca Raton does with the city’s CRA—makes the agency more accountable. The city and CRA also share expenses for many projects.

This change, though, mostly

AND WHERE IS THAT THREE-BLOCK PROJECT? In October 2013, the Delray Beach Community Redevelopment Agency believed that a major accomplishment was imminent.

The agency had spent years assembling a three-block cluster of about six acres east of the Fairfield Inn on West Atlantic Avenue.

Now the CRA board was ready to vote on bids from developers to create a mixed-use project that would include a grocery store in a food desert.

CRA staff members ranked Jones New Urban first. The board, however, picked the second-ranked bidder—Equity Delray. Board members were pumped.

Three years later, however, the board terminated the purchase agreement. Equity Delray owner John Flynn had failed to show that he could get financing. So the CRA had to start over.

But when the do-over came, it was a different CRA. The city commission had taken over the agency in April 2018. Mayor Shelly Petrolia, the four commissioners and two appointed board members would pick a new bidder.

Petrolia tried to give Flynn a second chance. She didn’t get the votes. So the CRA asked for additional submissions. In April 2019, the board chose BH3. Petrolia said of the company and the CRA, “We’re married.”

Seven months later, that marriage was on the rocks. The CRA put BH3 on notice of default because the developer was late with revised plans. BH3’s first version had been flashier than the CRA wanted.

Last-minute negotiations averted default.

But as of November, nothing had happened. BH3 still hadn’t finalized a deal with a grocer. The pandemic had made all retailers wary. Seven years later, nothing was imminent. Everyone was trying to be optimistic.

Boylston thinks the delay was “because of fear. Fear of letting go to a little bit of power. Fear of being accountable” for a plan “that changes lives, not just sidewalks.”

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was about politics. Some CRA board members—notably Chairman Reggie Cox, no relation to Kristyn Cox—had gotten sideways with some elected officials, notably Petrolia and commissioners Adam Frankel and Shirley Johnson.

She was, and remains, the only Black member of the commission.

Though commissioners run citywide, Johnson lives in the Northwest Neighborhood and has made redevelopment a personal priority.

Chuck Ridley

hat updated Set Transformation Plan gave an advisory role to the West Atlantic Redevelopment Coalition. Cox was a member. So was Village Academy Founder Chuck Ridley.

Cox and Ridley opposed Petrolia’s favored developer for roughly nine CRA-owned blocks

east of the Fairfield Inn. In 2014, Cox and Ridley had supported Jordana Jarjura in her successful commission campaign against incumbent Angeleta Gray. When Johnson won her commission seat in 2017, Gray ran her campaign.

As for Frankel, he had just joined the commission for a second time.

Frankel, who is Jewish, criticized comments on Cox’s Facebook page that Frankel considered to be antiSemitic. One quoted a “Jewish businessman” as calling Black people “liquid money.”

After the takeover, the newly constituted CRA board included the five commissioners and two appointees. Those were Gray and Gray’s ally Pamela Brinson.

So five of the seven board members had reason to dislike the West Atlantic Redevelopment Coalition. Only commissioners Bill Bathurst and Ryan Boylston—the lone vote against the CRA takeover—had no grudges.

Immediately, debate on The Set Transformation Plan stopped. A year later, Gray said, “I could care less (sic) about reviewing (the plan.)” Julie Casale, another Petrolia ally, replaced Bathurst last. She also showed no interest in moving to approve the plan.

Yet the supposedly vital plan was complete. It had cost the city about $100,000. Boylston regularly

asked his commission and CRA colleagues for a discussion on it. He regularly got no takers.

Boylston got frustrated enough that he compiled a video of the meetings at which he tried and failed to schedule discussion on the updated plan. Those attempts came in October 2018, March 2019, May 2019, December 2019 and June 2020.

Postponement followed postponement. After the delay last June, Boylston said he was “disappointed and embarrassed” that the city had not moved on a “groundbreaking community wealth-building plan.”

Boylston acknowledged that, two years after the CRA takeover, the same politics might be to blame. But he also argued that the delay was “because of fear. Fear of letting go to a little bit of power. Fear of being held accountable” for a plan “that changes lives, not just sidewalks.”

He was asking the commission to put up or shut up on the supposed need to change the Northwest/Southwest neighborhoods.

Boylston dismissed the idea that commissioners hadn’t read the plan or didn’t understand it.

“They don’t want it.” Boylston called the plan “a critical component of the future to our city, and I don’t just mean West Atlantic.”

He meant that Delray Beach

The new CRA board also inherited the mixed-use project on those three blocks of West Atlantic Avenue. No new initiatives, Boylston said, have come from the current board.

He called it “politics over people.”

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Implementation will start with “community capacity building” that includes “equity, diversity and inclusion training.” Then comes “wealth building,” followed by brick and mortar projects. couldn’t live up to its three AllAmerica City awards while failing the city’s minority residents.

Over and over, some commissioners stayed hung up on any reference to The Set and especially to the West Atlantic Redevelopment Coalition. After Boylston’s comments, Frankel noted what he labeled racist and anti-Semitic social media posts from people who participated in the planning. “It’s time to stop talking about those individuals,” Boylston responded, because doing so is “holding back an entire community.”

When approval came, after almost no discussion, there was no reference to any neighborhood group.

There was no reference to The Set, because that name was associated with Cox and Ridley. “Anticlimactic,” Boylston called the moment.

“I’m so disappointed,” Cox said, “that it became such a political thing about calling it ‘The Set.’” Cox considers West Atlantic “a very generic name.” Her disappointment is keener because the process of developing it “was the most inclusive I’ve ever been involved with.”

Yet the website of West Atlantic Redevelopment Coalition, which still exists, contains many references to The Set. Thrive is a member of the coalition. Whatever the official plan says, the coalition pushes on.

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Cox calls its strategy “the opposite of (former CRA Director) Bill Finley.” It seeks “uplift to small businesses and hustle entrepreneurs.”

The CRA continues to spend money in The Set. The current budget allocates $4 million for improvements at Pompey Park and another $4.5 million for projects to revive Northwest and Southwest Fifth Avenue.

Two projects will bring workforce housing clusters to the Southwest Neighborhood. Carver Square will have 20 homes and Corey Jones Isle will have 10. The budget for construction and owner assistance is $12 million.

Boylston points out, however, that the previous CRA board started those projects. “They’re good, but we’re just getting them across the finish line.” The new board also inherited the mixed-used project on those three blocks of West Atlantic. No new initiatives, Boylston said, have come from the current board. He called it “politics over people.” (see sidebar.)

And while those projects will help, Boylston said, the CRA board has “failed to empower the community. You can’t build it for them.” He noted the irony of Gray and Johnson, who are from the neighborhoods, seeming to dictate policy. “That’s what you usu-

ally hear from white outsiders.”

Despite their numbers, Northwest/Southwest residents haven’t turned their presence into power.

“We’re divided,” said Cox, who because she lives outside the city had to “prove myself.” Much of the area is transient, and longtime families are dwindling.

Despite the changes, Boylston said, “95 percent to 98 percent of the plan is fantastic.” Implementation will start with “Community Capacity Building” that includes “equity, diversity and inclusion training.”

Then comes “Civic Stewardship,” which includes community outreach and programs to reduce crime and improve code enforcement. Next will be “Wealth Building,” which will cover financial literacy, housing and health. After all the people stuff will be brickand-mortar projects to complement those underway or planned.

Cox speaks of her time with the CRA as “an arranged marriage.”

The city wanted accountability on its side, and the residents had to accept that relationship as Cox sought to bring their concerns to the city.

It was “a covenant,” Cox said. To borrow a phrase from Bill Clinton, perhaps the city needs a new covenant and a commitment to a new kind of politics that will give The Set more than a plan.

Shelly Petrolia

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! a i g n a

MF Our Italian primer has everything you ever wanted to know about great Italian cuisine WRITTEN BY JAMES BIAGIOTTI, MARY MALOUF, MARIE SPEED & JOHN THOMASON

here’s a reason the Delray-Boca area has at least 75 Italian restaurants. Some say it’s all those New Yorkers. Others point to trends in cooking—especially gourmet pizza. But we know why: It’s everyone’s favorite food. And it’s made with love. Here’s what you need to know to put a little of that love in your life.

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Boot Camp: Geography It turns out there’s no such thing as Italian cuisine—not with 20 diverse regions in the country and a population of almost 60 million.

Northern Italy has a whole different set of influences than Southern Italy, and Sunday gravy is simply not the national dish. Here’s a look at Italy’s 10 most prominent regions—and a typical dish from each. (For more regions and regional foods, go to bocamag.com)

REGION: CAMPANIA

WHERE IT IS: Southeast coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This ancient land was settled by the Greeks and is the site of Mount Vesuvius and Pompei; its fertile volcanic soil produces bountiful vegetables like famous San Marzano tomatoes, figs and lemons. This is where Naples is, the hallowed birthplace of pizza (page 47).

TYPICAL DISH: Pizza, buffalo mozzarella

REGION: EMILIA-ROMAGNA

WHERE IT IS: North central WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Known as “Italy’s food basket,” this is foodie heaven, with bragging rights for prosciutto, mortadella, ParmigianoReggiano cheese and Balsamic vinegar.

Many consider this region to offer “classic Italian” dishes.

TYPICAL DISH: Bolognese sauce, tortellini

mushrooms, pine nuts, anchovies and a “delicate” olive oil. The bread here is typically focaccia bread.

TYPICAL DISH: Chickpea flatbread

REGION: LOMBARDY

WHERE IT IS: North central WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Italy’s industrial region and its fashion capital, Milan favors risottos and polenta, veal, beef, butter, cow’s milk cheese and freshwater fish.

TYPICAL DISH: Risotto, osso bucco

REGION: PIEDMONT

WHERE IT IS: Northwest corner WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This region— and its white truffles—has somewhat elegant cuisine, lovely wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, and makes great chocolate desserts.

TYPICAL DISH: “Warm dip”

(Bagna caôda) made by slowly cooking chopped garlic with oil and butter, anchovies, peeled walnuts and served with Jerusalem artichoke, endive, sweet pepper and onion in a terracotta pot.

REGION: UMBRIA

WHERE IT IS: Central WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Called “the green heart of Italy,” its specialties are pork, black truffles and guanciale (cured pork jowl).

TYPICAL DISH: Tagliatelle with truffles

REGION: LAZIO

Top: Pizza, bruschetta, chickpea flatbread; right, tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffles

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WHERE IT IS: West central coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Rome is here, with three coins in the fountain, Julius Caesar, the Colosseum, tiny Fiats and more, but the cuisine is relatively simple, with lots of lamb and pork, vegetables and sheep’s milk cheese.

TYPICAL DISH: bruschetta, spaghetti alla carbonara, artichokes alla Roman

REGION: LIGURIA

WHERE IT IS: Northeast coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: Mediterranean foods including porcini

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Lombardy

Piedmont

Liguria

s n o i g e R of

Emilia-Romagna

y l a t I

Tuscany

â?¤ Umbria Lazio

Puglia Campania

Sardinia

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OSCAR SAAVEDRA!

Sicily

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Geography cont.

REGION: PUGLIA

Below, orecchiette pasta; right, panzanella

WHERE IT IS: The heel of the boot WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This is southern Italy’s “bread basket” with wheat, semolina flour, vegetables, olive oil, fava beans, broccoli rabe and lamb dishes.

TYPICAL DISH: Orecchiette pasta with turnip tops; rustic breads

REGION: SARDINIA

WHERE IT IS: Island off central western coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This island offers wild game like boar and mountain goat as well as lamb dishes, sheep’s milk cheese and a spiral-shaped busiati pasta.

Seafood is also plentiful.

TYPICAL DISH: Pilau, a “couscous-like” dish, made much the way risotto is

REGION: SICILY

WHERE IT IS: Island off the southwest coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: The largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily hearkens back 10,000 years before Don Corleone lived there. Its food has Greek, Arab, Spanish and French influences and favors antipasti, pasta and rice dishes, and stuffed and skewered meat.

It is also known for its candied fruits and marzipan.

TYPICAL DISH: Caponata, veal Marsala, pasta with sardines

REGION: TUSCANY

WHERE IT IS: North central coast WHAT IT IS KNOWN FOR: This is one of Italy’s art and cultural treasures,

highlighted by Florence, home of Michelangelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, the Medicis. Its food has been described as the “art of understatement” with spices like thyme and fennel, and is well known for its ravioli, tortelli and fish and seafood. Not to mention Chianti, Dr. Lecter’s favorite.

TYPICAL DISH: Pecorino cheese, steak alla fiorentina, panzanella (bread salad to you)

You Love These Dishes We asked our social media followers to tell us their favorite dishes at their favorite local Italian restaurants: Olga Adler: “Calamari a la plancha at Elisabetta’s.” 32 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561/560-6699 Fern Schwartzman Tracy: “Matteo’s shrimp oreganata— best ever!”

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233 S. Federal Highway, Boca Raton, 561/392-0773 Sallvatore DeeJay Sao Asaro: “Chicken Française at Pizza Time—best hands down!”

1001 S.W. Second Ave., Suite 7000, Boca Raton, 561/3919240 Ingrid Fulmer: “Gnocchi at Casa D’Angelo.”

171 E. Palmetto Park Road, Boca Raton, 561/996-1234

Sherry Zepatos: “Langostino oreganata at Trattoria Romana.” 499 E. Palmetto Park Road, Boca Raton, 561/393-6715 Jan Savarick: “Pasta fagioli at Mario’s Osteria—molto delizioso!” 1400 Glades Road, Suite 210, Boca Raton, 561/239-7000 Shawn Feinstein: “Tanzy’s fiocchi—swoon-worthy.”

301 Plaza Real, Boca Raton, 561/299-3000 Debbie Pisani-Kip: “Eggplant parmigiana at Nino’s.” 7120 Beracasa Way, Boca Raton, 561/392-9075 Lauren Hellstern: “Pear Pasta at Prezzo,” 5560 N. Military Trail, Suite 300, Boca Raton, 561/314-6840

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The real birth of pizza came about in Naples, Italy, between the 1700s and 1800s when the locals, most of whom were very poor, bought flatbreads with different toppings like anchovies and tomatoes and garlic from street vendors near the waterfront. This food was considered pretty much the dregs of cuisine until it got a thumbs-up from a pair of royals who were slumming.

According to Gayle Turim on history.com: “Italy unified in 1861, and King Umberto I and Queen Margherita visited Naples in 1889. Legend has it that the traveling pair became bored with their steady diet of French haute cuisine and asked for an assortment of pizzas from the city’s Pizzeria Brandi, the successor to Da Pietro pizzeria, founded in 1760.

The variety the queen enjoyed most was called pizza mozzarella, a pie topped with the soft white cheese, red tomatoes and green basil. From then on, the story goes, that topping combination was dubbed pizza Margherita.”

That started off a new appreciation for pizza, which migrated to the United States in the 1940s with Italian immigrants who started making it in places like New York and Chicago and Boston, among others. Today, pizza is practically an American icon, with regional variations, inventive toppings and heated arguments on who does it best.

We’re happy to call it our own.

King Umberto and Queen Margherita

These five terms come up a lot in Italian kitchens. Learn them, and increase your fluency in “restaurant Italian.”

MILANESA: dredged in crumbs and sautéed, as they do in Milan POPULAR IN: Veal Milanese

FLORENTINA: in the style of Florence—which usually indicates there’s going to be spinach somewhere, unless it refers to the mammoth steak that is the signature dish of Florence POPULAR IN: Chicken Florentine

BOLOGNESE: a meat sauce, a ragu, and refers to Bologna, where it’s made with wine POPULAR IN: Pasta Bolognese with ground beef

ACETO: an acidic vinegar accompaniment—aceto Balsamico is a reliable version—used in both main courses and salads POPULAR IN: Pollo con l’aceto

AGRODOLCE: a sweet and sour sauce POPULAR IN: striped bass

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y r a n i l u C rder La THE STAPLES OLIVE OIL, which merits a whole article in and of itself,

is a kitchen staple in Italian cooking, especially what cooks call EVOO—extra-virgin olive oil—which is taken from the first pressing of the olives, using only force, no chemicals or heat. Experts say to look for the harvest date on the bottle, which should be within the past year, and buy your olive oil from a trusted source to ensure it is indeed extra-virgin olive oil.

TIP: You don’t need to use EVOO when you’re cooking with olive oil—oil labeled “pure” is fine for that.

Save EVOO for salads, as a final flavor finish for vegetables, or drizzle it over grilled steak.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR

is from Modena, Italy—it’s dark, viscous and one of the most plagiarized ingredients on the grocery shelf. It’s made from grape must, the detritus left over from crushing wine grapes, then aged several years in oak barrels. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena) and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia) are protected by the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin. Others may be mixed with wine vinegar.

TIP: For most uses, the protected vinegars are just too expensive—save them for drizzling over cheese or strawberries.

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GARLIC is key here and

not the pre-chopped kind in a jar. A fresh head of garlic should be tightly packed with the cloves close together and no green sprout.

TIP: Slice in thin ovals for a stronger flavor, chopped for a subtler flavor. Most chefs mash the cloves with the broad end of a chef ’s knife. If you’re using it raw, be sure to remove the center sprout; cut the clove in half lengthwise and you’ll see it. It can taste bitter. Be very careful never to burn it when sautéing, as you’ll just have to start over.

WINE is for cooking.

And the cook. And forget about “cooking wine;” there is no such thing in good Italian food.

TIP: Use pinot grigio for cooking seafood, Chianti for meat and tomato dishes, and don’t use anything but Marsala if the recipe calls for it.

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HERBS

BASIL may be the most beloved herb in Italian dishes; it especially loves to belly up with lemon and tomato and garlic.

TIP: Add this to a simple aglio e olio pasta for the perfect finish. And cut it into chiffonade: Roll the leaf lengthwise, then cut across to form thin strips.

ROSEMARY is fragrant and soft, divine with porchetta or mushroom risottos. You should be able to find it fresh, or grow it in a pot.

TIP: You can also tie fresh rosemary up with a ribbon and put it in your underwear drawer as a sachet.

BAY LEAVES are best

OREGANO is a strong

PARSLEY, specifically

PARMIGIANOREGGIANO is a

ANCHOVIES are much misunderstood by people who think they are too “salty” or fishy;” when used correctly, they add a savory depth to tomato sauces.

TIP: Never, ever leave them out of Caesar salad, or it’s not a Caesar salad.

PROSCIUTTO is the ham that went to college when it comes to Italian cooking; it’s dry-cured and is usually eaten raw in antipasto or with melon.

TIP: Ignore the fat; that’s what makes prosciutto so good.

PANCETTA could be

used in slow cooking dishes and you can get them at any grocery store.

TIP: Drop the whole leaves into the pot and remove before serving.

aromatic herb, often grown at home in garden pots, and used fresh or dried in primarily southern Italian cooking.

TIP: Dried oregano actually has more flavor than fresh.

flat Italian parsley, should be used fresh and goes with just about anything.

TIP: Chopped parsley adds a fresh accent to soups, pastas and grilled meats and vegetables.

—hellofresh.com

PROTEIN

RICOTTA is mild and creamy Italian cheese which is versatile and obedient—it is good in desserts as well as savory dishes.

TIP: Go ahead and live: try a dollop on your Bolognese.

protected name—don’t fall for anything called Parmesan. The huge wheels, made from cow’s milk by law, must be aged one to three years.

TIP: You can use the less expensive Grana Padano like ParmigianoReggiano.

called Italian bacon— they’re both pork belly.

But pancetta is saltcured.

TIP: Dice a little bit and render it to use as a flavor base for sauces.

FRUITS & VEGGIES

TOMATOES are integral to many Italian dishes.

Today, most swear by canned San Marzano tomatoes, although every cook has a favorite brand.

TIP: San Marzano tomatoes are plum tomatoes grown in California, but they come out very close to the top in taste tests.

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LEMONS are all over Italian dishes in fresh simple sauces as well as salad dressings and desserts.

TIP: Squeeze a little into your meat sauce to give it more acidity—sometimes tomatoes can be too sweet.

CAPERS give a salty

boost to pasta dishes and salads.

TIP: Capers are actually the bud of a flower; after it blooms and fruits, you have caper berries, a very different thing. We like caper berries—the bigger ones—for more hearty dishes.

HOT PEPPER in Italy is

red pepperoncino flakes to spark up a sauce.

TIP: In most Mexican and American cooking, seeds are removed before using peppers. But pepper flakes include the seeds as well as the fruit—the seeds are what pack the punch.

PORCINI MUSHROOMS are rich and meaty and find their way into all kinds of stews and pasta and risottos.

TIP: You’ll mostly find dried ones in American markets. Bring them to life by soaking in hot water first.

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The Art of the Italian Cocktail Substitute the orange juice with a peach puree and mix with Prosecco.

Serve in a flute with an optional peach garnish.

Although Italy is renowned for its extravagant wines, it’s also managed to export a staggering number of cocktails over the years that have gone on to become staples around the world.

Here are a few of our favorites.

1 part gin 1 part Campari, 1 part sweet vermouth Garnish with an orange twist and serve in a rocks gla ss.

1 part Campari 1 part sweet vermouth spla sh of club soda Garnish with an orange twist and serve in a highball gla ss.

Negroni

The Negroni is the go-to Italian cocktail for many amateur bartenders, and for good reason. This classic drink is best enjoyed as an apéritif.

3 parts Prosecco 2 parts Aperol 1 part soda water.

Americano

Accounts of this cocktail’s storied history place its origins in Gaspare Campari’s bar in Milan, Italy in the mid-1800s, but it was originally known as the Milano-Torino.

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Bellini

This cocktail was born in Venice, and is a delightful spin on the more standard, brunch-y, Champagne-based Mimosa.

Garnish with an orange twist and serve in your wine gla ss of choice.

Aperol Spritz

This cocktail is known for its radiant coral hue, and has made a major comeback in recent years due to its refreshing taste and simple recipe.

Limoncello

A classic apéritif, this lemon-based liqueur is produced primarily in Southern Italy, and is best enjoyed neat.

You can’t go wrong.

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Italian Wines

As selected by Shawn Miller of Vineyard Brands, these six Italian wines cover a wide range of regions in Italy, and are available at restaurants and retailers throughout Palm Beach County.

BORGO SCOPETO CHIANTI CLASSICO

This wine is dark ruby red and comes from grapes from the heart of the Chianti Classico region in the center of Tuscany. It has overtones of wood, vanilla and cocoa with a cherry finish, and pairs well with semi-hard cheeses and red meats.

GRADIS’CIUTTA PINOT GRIGIO

This straw-yellow white wine has copper reflections, and is made with grapes grown in the vineyards of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy. It has notes of peaches and ripe apples, and pairs well with antipasti, soups, fish baked in the oven, and main courses with white meats.

UMANI RONCHI “VELLODORO” PECORINO

This white wine is derived from grapes grown in Montepagano in the region of Abruzzo, and is defined by its high-acidity, low-productivity grapes. Pairs well with fish dishes, fresh cheeses, pasta, and legume soups.

CAPARZO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO This deep ruby-colored wine comes from vineyards to the north and south of Montalcino, Tuscany, with notes of violet, raspberries and pomegranates. Pairs well with red meats, pasta with meat sauces, legume-based soups and aged cheeses.

MASSOLINO BAROLO

This garnet-colored wine is derived from Nebbiolo grapes grown in Serralunga d’Alba in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. Pairs well with red meats, dishes dressed with truffle, fresh egg pasta and meat sauce, and with risotto.

TENUTA DI FESSINA ROSSO

This light ruby-colored wine comes from grapes grown in the shadow of Mount Etna in Sicily, and has notes of coriander and wild berries. Pairs well with white meat dishes.

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gnocchi

penne

conchiglie

rigatoni

gomiti

tortiglioni

chifferi

gemelli

creste

w o n K Y ou r e l d o No garganelli

fusilli

cavatappi

francesine

farfalle

fettuccine sagnarelli

cannelloni lasagne

pappardelle spaghetti

alfabeto

spighe

stelline

gobetti

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radiatori

rotelle

lunghi

capellini

ditalini tagliatelle

tortellini

ravioli

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What Makes Italian Food So Beloved ?

We posed this question to the top chefs of four Palm Beach County restaurants. Here’s what they had to say.

ARTURO GISMONDI,

“THE FIRST THINGS TO come to mind are Sunday dinner. Family.

Variety. Salt-of-the-Earth ingredients from the Mediterranean.

Abundance. Informal—you can eat off somebody’s plate, taste the pasta first.

“It’s been interesting, having a French restaurant and Italian restaurant, and watching the takeout [during the pandemic]. The Italian is just comfort.

You’re not ordering French food in these times … that speaks for itself. It’s just warmth. It’s easy.”

“ITALIANS ARE ALL ABOUT FAMILY. They work together, live together, laugh together, and sometimes even fight together. But no matter what, Italians will always sit down and eat together. Even if you aren’t Italian, at the end of the day, you can always appreciate family. And that’s what shines through in our cuisine. It’s comfort food for all people.”

MICHELE MAZZA, corporate executive chef, Il Mulino New York/Boca Raton, 451 E. Palmetto Park Road, Boca Raton, 561/3388606: “ITALIAN FOOD IS A SENSORY experience with enticing aromas of simple, fresh ingredients, herbs, olive oil, Parmigiano Reggiano and sauces made from local farmers’ finest tomatoes. You can taste our handmade pastas prepared with a lot of love. Our guests’ senses go wild eating al fresco in Boca Raton! We serve our authentic Abruzzi-inspired Il Mulino classic dishes with a focus on Mediterranean seafood from the coast of South Florida using traditional recipes with a modern twist.”

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LISBET SUMMA, chef, Elisabetta’s, 32 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561/560-6699; also culinary director, Big Time Restaurant Group:

“THE DEVOTION to a dish or an entire genre of cuisine springs from familiarity and tradition. One naturally has the strongest affinity for and attachment to dishes they grew up with. When we’re cooking at the restaurants, I tell the crew, often and loudly, ‘we’re not making food, we’re making memories!’

“For many generations, the traditions of Italian cooking have been embedded in the foundation of home cooking and restaurant cuisine in America.

The first great wave of influence harkens back to the arrival of immigrants from southern Italy, escaping fascism and poverty. The wave of new citizens brought with them their knowledge, their traditions and in fact their seeds.

Like seeds propagating by wind, cuisine has always become rooted by its disciples, creating pockets of influence.

“Oh, and spaghetti is fun to eat, so parents have always had a go-to solution to their exhaustive picky eaters. I myself was so enamored of spaghetti and meatballs that I dedicated an entire extra-credit research report to the history of this dish in the eighth grade—much to the delight of the entire teachers’ lounge of Deerpath Elementary.”

delray beach magazine

AARON BRISTOL

ROSARIA GISMONDI, co-owner, Arturo’s Ristorante, 6750 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton, 561/997-7373:

AARON BRISTOL

owner, Trattoria Romana, 499 E. Palmetto Park Road, Boca Raton, 561/393-6715; also La Nouvelle Maison and Luff’s Fish House:

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Michael Flaugh

LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT

YOUR TIME. YOUR SPACE.YOUR RESORT. Make your backyard your refuge.

Landscape Planning Pool and Patio Designs Sound and Lighting Outdoor Kitchens Pergolas Furnishings Bid Procurement

Mike Flaugh Landscape Architect

MikeFlaughLA.com 772.419.0024 ~ Mike@MikeFlaughLA.com Stuart ~ Palm Beach ~ Ft. Lauderdale ~ Islamorada FL reg # LA0001728

a common thread See those strands of twisted yard and shimmering thread? That’s embroidery, and many of today’s most spectacular fabrics and accents share the elaborate needlework. What’s more, today’s embellishments boast compelling contemporary designs as well as magnificent classics, making them perfect for any best-dressed décor. january/february 2021

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PHOTO COURTESY OF STYLE LIBRARY

[ home ] B Y B R A D M E E

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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE

[ home ]

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Opposite: Manila Embroidery from Sanderson, Style Library, stylelibrary.com Above (left to right, top to bottom): Hedonie from Casamance; Souk from Castel; Tambo from Harlequin; Rain Forest Embroidery Tropical Night by Sanderson; Lollipop from Donghia; Principessa Kocacin from Rubelli; Eliza from Donghia; Manila Embroidery Lime from Sanderson; Creation from Casamance; East Village from Camengo; Runway from Casamance; Dun from Donghia; Street from Camengo; Menorca from Camengo; Hedonie from Casamance; Trapeze from Donghia. All fabrics available to the trade.

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PUT IT THERE

Embroidery is popping up in spaces throughout the home, embellishing eye-catching decorative elements with dimension, artistry and personality.

WINDOW TREATMENTS Caspian Daula from Sanderson, Style Library, stylelibrary.com

PILLOWS

PHOTO STYLE LIBRARY

Pompidou Pillows, Jonathan Adler, jonathanadler.com

STITCH WITCHERY Embroidery magically turns any accent from simple to sublime.

DRAPERIES

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JONATHAN ADLER AND STYLE LIBRARY

Kengo from Harlequin, Style Library, stylelibrary.com

UPHOLSTERY Cromer from Sanderson, Style Library, stylelibrary.com

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(Left to Right) Jimena Chair, $998, Anthropologie, West Palm Beach, anthropologie.com; Schumacher Zanzibar Napkins, $60/set of 4, Williams Sonoma Home, Boca Raton, williams-sonoma.com; Embroidered Cockatoo Lamp Shade, $168, Anthropologie, Palm Beach Gardens, anthropologie.com; Palm Beach collection pillows, $95-$125, DiCasa Designs, Boca Raton, dicasadesigns.com; Muse Eyes Embellished Throw, $395, Jonathan Adler, Miami Design District, jonathanadler.com

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[ out & about ] 2020 BOCA BALLROOM BATTLE WHAT: The highly anticipated Boca Ballroom Battle is one of our favorite local events, and this year its dancers became TV stars right in front of our eyes. For the first time ever as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, this year’s Ballroom Battle was not live at the Boca Raton Resort & Club, but instead held at the WPTV Channel 5 Studios and broadcast on television. Kirsten Stanley and Steve Bernstein were crowned the winners of this year’s contest, which raised a new record total of more than $660,000 for the George Snow Scholarship Fund.

WHERE: WPTV Channel 5 Studios

Tara Lucier, Kirsten Stanley, Ross O’Connor, Kyle Stewart, Steve Bernstein, Dr. Gwenesia Collins, Bill Donnell, Robin Bresky

Tim Snow, Dr. Minelle Tendler, Kirsten Stanley, Joe Veccia, Fran Nachlas, Eddie Ventrice

Presenting Sponsor Teddy Morse of Ed Morse Automotive Group

VIVIIMAGE PHOTOGRAPHY

Bill Donnell and Sayra Vazquez Brann

Emcees Glenn Glazer and Paige Kornblue

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Steve Bernstein with Sayra Vazquez Brann

Ross O’Connor with Sayra Vazquez Brann

Robin Bresky with James Brann

Kyle Stewart with Sayra Vazquez Brann

Tara Lucier with James Brann

Tim Snow, Dr. Minelle Tendler, Steve Bernstein, Joe Veccia, Fran Nachlas, Eddie Ventrice

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CARL DAWSON

[ out & about ]

The City of Delray Beach Downtown Development Authority designated $30,000 for small business grants to support local small businesses struggling during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pictured: Monogram Closet in Delray Beach

Longtime St. Andrew’s board member Mrs. Marilyn Mayer celebrated her 100th birthday recently.

Mrs. Mayer joined the Saint Andrew’s School community as a parent of two students in 1978. and served on the Board of Trustees from 1981 to 1990., at which time she became a Trustee Emeriti, a position she continues to hold to this day.

To help provide food and essentials to those in need, Raytheon Technologies donated $5 million to Feeding America to support local food banks, including $159,000 that was allocated to Feeding South Florida. Pictured: Justin Blum, Mary Anne Cannon and Sari Vatske

The Palm Beach County Food Bank received a generous $50,000 grant from local philanthropist Lois Grant, and used the donation to partner with Grant’s Food4Kids program in an effort to help feed local children struggling during the COVID-19 pandemic. Pictured: Palm Beach County Food Bank volunteers packaging food for the Food4Kids Program

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Members of the Junior League of Boca Raton wrote nearly 500 letters to patients at Boca Raton Regional Hospital to brighten their days while visitation was limited at the hospital. Pictured: Sam Eckhart, Shelia Traverso, Cristy Stewart-Harfmann, Julie Ott, Robin Mautino, Jayme Weekly

During the pandemic, CROS Ministries has expanded its mission to help feed those in need in Palm Beach County. Pictured: CROS Ministries Executive Director Ruth Mageria helping to distribute bags of food in Riviera Beach

january/february 2021

11/30/20 10:57 AM

magazine

DELRAY

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MULTIDISCIPLINARY ORTHOPAEDIC SURGERY

From muscle strains and simple sprains to highly complicated surgeries, Orthopaedic Surgery Associates, Inc. (“OSA”) has been serving the Palm Beach County area for over 40 years with the finest in orthopaedic medical care. OSA offers “world class” orthopaedic care with their Fellowship Trained and Board Certified physician staff.

OSA’s multidisciplinary team of orthopaedic surgeons are one of the nation’s most advanced groups for the diagnosis and treatment of hand, knee, hip, spine, foot and other orthopaedic disorders and injuries. OSA has offices in Boca Raton and Boynton Beach, FL. 561.395.5733 561.734.5080 Ortho-surgeon.com

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Custom wood and mesquite grill

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ichael Salmon puts the chic in chicken with flame-grilled flavor and spices that make eager diners’ taste buds dance with delight. An award-winning chef at some of New York’s finest restaurants and a finalist on The Next Food Network Star and 24 Hour Restaurant Challenge, he brings a down-home friendly vibe to his cozy Delray coop, FlyBird Chargrilled Chicken.

Once you try the farm fresh, vegan-fed juicy bird cooked to crispy perfection on the custom wood and mesquite grill, you’ll share the sentiment of a recent Yelp review: “It’s not often that I walk away from a meal, especially from a little take-out place totally blown away, but this is a place I will be going back to frequently, and the icing on the cake is that the folks that work there were so super nice!”

The truth is, along with take-out and catering, FlyBird also has socially distant seating inside and out, with music to munch by, and friends to be made. One of the runaway favorites on the menu is the Frybird sandwich featuring a large and crispy chicken breast, sliced pickles, chipotle mayo, topped with their crunchy coleslaw, all on a soft toasted potato bun. Served with their homemade potato chips…it’s a winner!

There’s even more icing on this cake, along with the chocolate chip cookies and pies, all homemade! Trust the reviews and the faith that thousands of happy foodies place on Chef Michael when they simply say “Just Feed Me,” and their love affair with chicken takes flight 335 E. Linton Blvd.

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Delray Beach, FL 33483 Flybirdfood.com

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561.243.1111

THE LEGACY DINNER SERIES

Yellowtail Modern Asian Cuisine and Sushi

Oysters 2 ways-Kushi oysters basil oil and calabran chiliblue points with sauteéd escarole and uni hollandaise

Chef Emerson Frisbie and Chef Andrew Marc Rothschild

sponsored content

T

Crispy Tilefish-potato pureé-green curry-five spice reduction-carrot and celery micro herbs

he Legacy Dinner Series, a collaboration between award-winning Chef Andrew Marc Rothschild of Yellowtail, Modern Asian Cuisine and Chef Emerson Frisbie will continue its successful rollout into 2021, having already executed more than a half dozen dinners to the critical acclaim of food critics, restaurant professionals and locals in the Delray Beach restaurant scene. The series was designed to provide a platform for young rising Chefs negatively affected by the impact Covid-19.

16-18 people who eagerly pre-purchase tickets to secure their spots. The chefdriven tasting menu consists of six to eight courses, curated with wines and spirits, for $195 per person. All standard COVID-19 safety protocols are followed, with the dining room strategically downsized. The intimate ambiance adorned with white tablecloths and high end tableware reflects the kind of upscale dining found in the best restaurants around the world.

For the devoted customers who have frequented Yellowtail regularly since its opening three years ago, donning their masks to retrieve take-out only after the onset of the virus last March, the reopening of the dining room and the launch of The Legacy Dinner Series has been music to their ears.

“We invite you to join us on this journey as we collectively re-envision the dynamic and evolving function of hospitality,” says Chef Andrew. The Link for ticket purchases can be found on the Yellowtail website, yellowtail-sushi.com, Instagram and/or Facebook pages.

Each dinner in the monthly series, launched in August to rave reviews and sell-out attendance, is exquisitely prepared with world-class culinary artistry and limited to

7959 W. Atlantic Avenue n Delray Beach, FL 33446 Yellowtail-sushi.com

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561.501.6391

dining guide

Your resource for Greater Delray Beach’s finest restaurants

Warike Peruvian Bistro

2399 N. Federal Highway, Boca Raton, 561/465-5922

I

eat a lot of fresh food, but the meals on an Amazon cruise I took in the 1990s are my standard when remembering some of the freshest dishes of my life.

It was fish caught off the ship, chicken and meat purchased from families on the riverbank, locally grown vegetables and herbs. It was Peruvian cooking, as the ship and crew were based in Iquitos, Peru.

Those memories are what drew me to Warike Peruvian Bistro, a small restaurant that opened two years ago in a small strip shopping center. Owned by Chef/Owner Roxana Benvenuto and her son, Carlo Chiarella, the décor is modern—black and white with clean lines.

A Clasico Warike Sour ($10.50) started my meal with this tart, traditional drink made from pisco (Peruvian

base liquor), lemon juice, sugar, egg whites and garnished with bitters. The crispy, tender, fried calamari rings arrived with house-made Peruvian tartar sauce and aji Amarillo sauce, made with the spicy Peruvian pepper, both of which enhanced the calamari.

The Aji De Gallina ($16), a traditional comfort food, was just that. Made from shredded chicken breast, walnuts, Parmesan and creamy aji Amarillo sauce, this would be comfort at any meal. It’s served with a sliced boiled egg, boiled potatoes and white rice.

The walnuts in the sauce provided a deeper taste with the pepper sauce, and altogether it was delicious.

The Arroz con Mariscos ($23) (below) arrived with mussels, calamari, shrimp, the sharp/sweet aji panca pepper, onions, sofrito, Parmesan, lime juice and brown rice laced with peas. This was enough for two people, with the seafood tender and full of flavor.

The Crocante De Lucuma cheesecake, called “the gold of the Incas,” tastes like a rich, caramel custard drizzled with chocolate. Lucuma is a Peruvian fruit touted to contain lots of beneficial health qualities. Not that we were even thinking about that; we were too busy with a sweet ending to a very good meal.

Peruvian food, thankfully, has made a huge impact in local dining communities.

Add Warike to your restaurant rotation, but make a reservation, because this venue fills up quickly, especially for dinner.

— Lynn Kalber

IF YOU GO PARKING: Parking lot HOURS: Tues.-Thurs., noon to 8 p.m.; Fri.Sat., noon to 9 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 8 p.m.

PRICES: entrees $15-$34 WEBSITE: warikeboca.com

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DINING KEY $ Inexpensive: under $17 $$ Moderate: $18 to $35 $$$ Expensive: $36 to $50 $$$$ Very expensive: $50+ DELRAY BEACH 3rd and 3rd—301 N.E. Third Ave. Gastropub. This quirky, individualistic, obscurely located little place is one of the most important restaurants in Delray. The menu changes frequently, but hope the evening’s fare includes plump scallops with caramelized mango sauce, stunning delicious roasted cauliflower with Parmesan mousse and bacon, and wicked-good espresso panna cotta on it at your visit. • Lunch Wed.-Fri., Brunch Sat. and Sun., Dinner Mon.-Sat. 561/303-1939. $$

50 Ocean—50 S. Ocean Blvd. Seafood. The former Upper Deck at Boston’s on the Beach is now the more upscale, seafood-oriented spot. The menu ranges from familiar to slightly more inventive, from a classic lobster bisque and crisp-tender fried clam bellies to rock shrimp pot pie and baked grouper topped with blue crab. The cinnamon-dusted beignets are puffs of amazingly delicate deep-fried air and should not under any circumstances be missed. • Lunch Mon.-Sat. Dinner nightly. Brunch Sun. 561/278-3364. $$

Angelo Elia Pizza • Bar • Tapas— 16950 Jog Road. Italian. Nothing on the menu of Angelo Elia’s modern, small plates-oriented osteria disappoints, but particularly notable are the meaty fried baby artichokes stuffed with breadcrumbs and speck, delicate chicken-turkey meatballs in Parmesan-enhanced

broth, and Cremona pizza with a sweet-salty-earthypungent mélange of pears, pancetta, Gorgonzola, sundried figs and mozzarella. • Lunch Tues.-Sun. Dinner nightly. 561/381-0037. $

Apeiro Kitchen & Bar—14917 Lyons Road. Mediterranean. West Delray diners have another reason to stay in their neighborhood with this stylish, contemporary Mediterranean eatery. Apeiro’s menu spans the entire Mediterranean, with dishes like Moroccan-spiced lamb ribs, 14-ounce double-cut pork chops, and fluffy meatballs adorned with tomato sauce, ricotta and pesto. The apple crostata, baked in a wood-burning oven, is one of the best desserts in town. • Dinner nightly. 561/501-4443. $$ Atlantic Grille—1000 E. Atlantic Ave. Seafood/ Contemporary American. This posh restaurant in the luxurious Seagate Hotel & Spa is home to a 450-gallon aquarium of tranquil moon jellyfish and a 2,500-gallon shark tank. Savor inventive cuisine that takes the contemporary to the extraordinary. Bold flavors, inspired techniques and the freshest ingredients make every meal a culinary adventure. • Lunch and dinner daily.

Brunch Sat.–Sun. 561/665-4900. $$

The Banyan—189 N.E. Second Ave. American.

Snuggled under its namesake banyan tree in Pineapple Grove, this modern restaurant boasts a bright pink neon bar with bright cocktails, too. Try the purple Aviation gin cocktail paired with the Maryland crab bites or the Yum Yum Shrimp with spicy-sweet sriracha aioli. Sliders, tacos, mac trios and flatbreads do not disappoint. Order the crème brûlée cheesecake if it’s available. • 561/563-8871. $$

Beg for More Izakaya—19 S.E. Fifth Ave. Japanese Small Plates. The large sake, whisky and beer menu here pairs beautifully with the small plates full of everything except sushi. No sushi. And that’s fine.

Try the takoyaki (octopus balls), the crispy salmon

tacos and anything with the addictive kimchi, such as the kimchi fried rice. There are pasta, teriyaki and simmered duck with bok choy dishes—or 16 varieties of yakitori (food on skewers). You’ll be back to beg for more. • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/563-8849. $$

Brulé Bistro—200 N.E. Second Ave. Contemporary American. The regular menu of this Pineapple Grove favorite always has satisfying dishes. Its specialties include crab tortellini with black truffles, chicken meatballs with coconut broth and cashews, plus signature dessert pistachio crème brùlée. Spirits and house cocktails steeped in speakeast style are paired with an ever-changing menu. Outside tables offer the best option for conversation. • Lunch and dinner daily.

561/274-2046. $$ Buddha Garden—217 E. Atlantic Ave. #3. Pan Asian.

Don’t miss a meal at this stylish Asia-meets-industrial chic spot with an upstairs view of the Delray skyline.

Chinese-influenced dim sum is inspired, while rock shrimp tempura and Tokyo beef skewers with twin chimichurri sauces touch the heart and the taste buds.

Veggie fried rice is exemplary thanks to the kitchen’s application of wok chi. • Dinner nightly. 561/450-7557. $$

Burt & Max’s—9089 W. Atlantic Ave. Contemporary American. This bastion of contemporary comfort food in west Delray is approaching local landmark status, forging its own menu while borrowing a few dishes from Max’s Grille, like the hearty chopped salad and bacon-wrapped meatloaf. Other dishes are variations on the comfort food theme, including a stellar truffle-scented wild mushroom pizza. • Dinner nightly. Sunday brunch.

561/638-6380. $$ Cabana El Rey—105 E. Atlantic Ave. Cuban tropical.

Little Havana is alive and well in Delray. The menu is a palette-pleasing travelogue, including starters like mariquitas (fried banana chips) and main courses such as seafood paella (think mussels, shrimp, clams, conch, scallops and octopus). • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/274-9090. $$

CRISTINA MORGADO

Caffe Luna Rosa—34 S. Ocean Blvd., Delray Beach. Italian. This multiple Delray Beach-award winning restaurant has sparkling service, comfort food taken to a higher level, and a setting just steps from the Atlantic. Open since 1993, and a success since then, they dish up big flavors in a tiny space, so call for reservations. Try the calamari fritto misto, then the rigatoni pomodoro and leave room for dessert. Or come back for breakfast. • Open daily from breakfast through dinner. 561-274-9404. $$ Casa L’Acqua—9 S.E. Seventh Ave. Italian. You’ll get Swordfish with roasted cauliflower from 3rd and 3rd

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what you pay for here: very good Italian food in the cozy converted house that is a refreshing change from busy Atlantic Avenue. The antipasti (bread, balsamic/honey january/february 2021

11/19/20 4:24 PM

dipping sauce, Parmesan chunks, bruschetta) are so good, they could be dinner. But save room for the pollo Parmigiana, the scallopine piccate al limone, the four kinds of risotto, and dessert. • Lunch and dinner daily.

561/563-7492. $$$

City Oyster—213 E. Atlantic Ave. Seafood. This stylish mainstay of Big Time Restaurant Group serves up reasonably priced seafood that never disappoints, such as shrimp and grits with a jumbo crab cake. This is the place to see and be seen in Delray, and the food lives up to its profile. • Lunch Mon.–Sun. Dinner nightly. Outdoor dining. 561/272-0220. $$

restaurant, giving it a quirky charm all its own. The comfort food menu has its quirky charms, too, like shake-n-bake pork chops with sweet-savory butterscotch onions, and a brownie-vanilla ice cream sundae with strips of five-spice powdered bacon.

The wittily decorated 1920s-vintage house-turnedrestaurant is, as they say, a trip. • Dinner nightly.

561/330-3232. $$

Deck 84 —840 E. Atlantic Ave. Contemporary American. Burt Rapoport’s ode to laid-back tropical dining is like a day at the beach without getting sand between your toes. Though the restaurant is casual, the kitchen takes its food seriously, whether the stellar flatbreads, the thick and juicy 10-ounce special blend burger or homey seasonal cobbler. And the waterfront location just seems to make everything taste better.

• Lunch Mon.–Fri. Brunch Sat.–Sun. Dinner nightly.

561/665-8484. $

PROOF

Cut 432—432 E. Atlantic q OK AS IS Ave. Steakhouse. Hipper decor, a more vibe and an inventive take on q casual OK WITH CORRECTION(S) steak-houseqfavorites make this sleekPROOF restaurant just REQUEST 2ND

different enough to be interesting. Starters such as ceviche (prepared Peruvian style) and ultrarich oysters Rockefeller are first-rate, while the wet-aged beef CLIENT OFF is appropriately tenderSIGN and tasty.

• Dinner nightly.

561/272-9898. $$$

Dada—52 N. Swinton Ave. Contemporary American. The same provocative, whimsical creativity that spawned Dada the art movement infuses Dada the

churros are the perfect dessert. And check out the margaritas, especially the smoky blend of mezcal and blanco tequila. • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/865-5350. $$

The Grove—187 N.E. Second Ave. Contemporary American. Chef and sommelier Michael Haycook and Dining Room Manager Paul Strike change their menu biweekly, turning out dishes exhilarating in their freshness, creativity and elegant simplicity. An appetizer of octopus with olive oil, crushed potato aioli and lemon is outstanding. • Dinner Tues.–Sat. 561/266-3750. $$

El Camino—15 N.E. Second Ave. Mexican. This sexy,

Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar—1841 S. Federal Highway. American. You don’t have to worry about calories (most dishes are under 500), you don’t have to worry about finding something you haven’t tried before (new items are added every three months) and freshness is the silent ingredient throughout. Try the pesto Caprese flatbread, the supergrain salad and the steak or salmon PHONE: 561.982.8960 or chicken. Desserts offer big tastes in small jars. • Lunch FAX: 561.994.8509 and dinner daily; brunch on weekends.

561/266-3239. $$

bustling downtown spot is from the trio behind nearby Cut 432 and Park Tavern. Fresh, quality ingredients go into everything from the tangy tomatillo salsas to the world-class fish tacos clad in delicate fried skin, set off by tart pineapple salsa. Cinnamon and sugar-dusted

Henry’s—16850 Jog Road. American. This casual, unpretentious restaurant in the west part of town never fails to delight diners. Expect attentive service and crisp execution of everything—from meat loaf, burgers and

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Il Girasole—2275 S. Federal Highway. Northern Italian.

If you want Northern Italian in a low-key atmosphere, and nobody rushing you out the door, this is your spot.

Start with something from the very good wine list. Try the yellowtail snapper, the penne Caprese and the capellini Gamberi, and leave room for the desserts. Reservations recommended. • Dinner Tues.–Sun. 561/272-3566. $$ J&J Seafood Bar & Grill—634 E. Atlantic Ave. Seafood. This local favorite on Atlantic Avenue—owned

by John Hutchinson (who is also the chef) and wife Tina—serves up everything from burgers and wraps to a menu brimming with seafood options. Don’t forget to inquire about the stunning array of 10 specials—every night. • Lunch and dinner Tues.–Sat. 561/272-3390. $$

Jimmy’s Bistro—9 S. Swinton Ave. Contemporary American. This small gem off noisy Atlantic Avenue is big on taste and ambience, and has been busy since 2009. You can travel the world with dumplings, conch fritters, pork schnitzel, rigatoni Bolognese, étouffée and more. Reservations are recommended at this laid-back, comfortable venue. • Dinner nightly. 561/865-5774. $$

Joseph’s Wine Bar—200 N.E. Second Ave. Mediterranean-American. Joseph’s is an elegant, comfortable, intimate nook in Delray’s Pineapple Grove, and an ideal place for a lazy evening. This family affair— owner Joseph Boueri, wife Margaret in the kitchen, and son Elie and daughter Romy working the front of the house—has all tastes covered. Try the special cheese platter, the duck a l’orange or the rack of lamb. • Lunch Mon.–Sat. Dinner nightly. 561/272-6100. $$

La Cigale—253 S.E. Fifth Ave. Mediterranean. Popular venue since 2001, with Greek and Italian dishes and more. Highlights are seafood paella, roasted half duck and grilled jumbo artichoke appetizer. Lots of favorites on the menu: calf ’s liver, veal osso buco, branzino, seafood crepes. Nice outdoor seating if weather permits.

• Dinner Mon.–Sat. 561/265-0600. $$

Latitudes—2809 S. Ocean Blvd. Modern American. You should come for both the sunset and the food. This oceanfront restaurant is a gem tucked inside the Delray Sands resort. From the airy, bubbly interior to the raw bar, the décor is soothing and fun. Try the lobster and crab stuffed shrimp, the miso-glazed Skuna Bay salmon, the branzino or the veal Bolognese. • Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

561/278-6241. $$$

Lemongrass Bistro—420 E. Atlantic Ave. PanAsian. Casually hip ambience, friendly service, moderate prices and a blend of sushi and nouveau pan-Asian fare make this a popular destination. The quality of its

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seafood and care in its preparation are what gives Lemongrass its edge. • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/2785050. (Other Palm Beach County locations: 101 Plaza Real S., Boca Raton, 561/544-8181; 1880 N. Congress Ave., Boynton Beach, 561/733-1344). $

Lobster tempura from Prime

The Office—201 E. Atlantic Ave. Contemporary American. Your office is nothing like this eclectic gastropub, unless your office sports more than two dozen craft beers on tap and a menu that flits from burgers and fries to mussels. Don’t miss the restaurant’s winning take on the thick, juicy Prime beef burger and simply wicked maple-frosted donuts with bacon bits and two dipping sauces. • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/276-3600. $$

Park Tavern—32 S.E. Second Ave. Contemporary American. Check out the high-top seating or bar stools during an excellent happy hour menu that includes deviled eggs, pork sliders, chicken wings and a happy crowd. Entrees are generous and well executed. Try the fish and chips, one of six burgers, fish tacos and more. • Dinner nightly. Brunch Sat.-Sun. 561/265-5093. $$ Prime—29 S.E Second Ave. Steak/Seafood. Prime is aptly named for its heart of the action location, neo-supper club decor, extensive wine list and roster of designer steaks. Starters and desserts fare better than entrées, especially the Maryland-style crab cakes and luscious chocolate bread pudding. Service is strong so with a bit of work this restaurant will fully live up to its name. • Dinner nightly. 561/865-5845. $$$ Racks Fish House + Oyster Bar—5 S.E. Second Ave. Seafood. Gary Rack, who also has scored with his spot in Mizner Park, certainly seems to have the restaurant Midas touch, as evidenced by this updated throwback to classic fish houses. Design, ambience and service hit all the right notes. Oysters are terrific any way you get them; grilled fish and daily specials are excellent. • Lunch and dinner daily.

561/450-6718. $$$ Rose’s Daughter—169 N.E. Second Ave. Italian.

While not your traditional Italian trattoria, it is a place to find new favorites and revisit old standbys updated with delicious ingredients and high standards.

Try the Monet-colored lobster risotto, or housemade pasta, pizza, bread and desserts. From the mushroom arancini to the tiramisu, you will be glad Owner/Chef Suzanne Perrotto is in the kitchen. Indoor and outdoor seating. • Dinner Wed.-Sun. 561/271-9423. $$

Salt7—32 S.E. Second Ave. Modern American. All the pieces needed to create a top-notch restaurant are here: talented chef, great food, excellent service.

From the pea risotto to the crab cake to the signature steaks and a lot more, this is a venue worth the money.

Thanks goes to Executive Chef Paul Niedermann, who

AARON BRISTOL

fried chicken to flatbreads and hefty composed salads. • Lunch Mon.–Sat. Dinner nightly. 561/638-1949. $$

won TV’s notorious “Hell’s Kitchen” show, and his talent is displayed here on the plate. • Dinner Mon.-Sat. Brunch Sunday. 561/274-7258. $$$

Sazio—131 E. Atlantic Ave. Italian. This long-lived venue on crowded Atlantic Avenue is a reason to sit down and take a breath. Then take up a fork and try the linguine with white clam sauce or the ravioli Sazio or grilled skirt steak or pretty much anything on the menu. Prices are reasonable; leftovers are popular. • Lunch and dinner daily. 561/272-5540. $$ Sundy House—106 S. Swinton Ave. Contemporary American. It’s fine dining with a new chef and rave reviews here, served in arguably the most beautiful restaurant and gardens in Delray. Menus are seasonal and imaginative. Try any of the fresh local fish dishes.

• Lunch Tues.–Sat. Brunch Sun. Dinner Tues.–Sun. 561/272-5678. $$

Taverna Opa—270 E. Atlantic Ave. Greek. Yes, you can order a side of belly dancing and napkin tossing with your moussaka and baklava at this chain. But the moussaka and baklava are very good; so is the rest of the food at the downtown Delray outpost. Also worth your while (and appetite) are appetizers like melitzanosalata, whipped eggplant with orange zest and roasted red pepper, and tarama, a creamy emulsion of bread, olive oil and salmon roe. Whole grilled bronzino is finished with lemon and orange juices for a citrusy flavor boost, while tongue-tying galaktoboureko goes baklava one better by adding vanilla-scented custard to golden, flaky phyllo. • Dinner nightly. 561/303-3602. $$ january/february 2021

12/2/20 8:58 AM

TOGETHER,

we build

a better community in

South Palm Beach County and a

brighter future for the next generation.

Join us at jewishboca.org

or call 561-852-3100 for more information.

[ community connection ] B Y R I C H P O L L A C K

Jacqueline Botting

Wise Tribe Founder and Chief Visionary

THEN:

Jacqueline Botting had it all. With a background in finance and technology, Botting had jobs working with investors and internet startup companies as well as a major business software company before getting hired to work for the Irish government’s Trade and Technology Board. Eventually becoming senior vice president of financial services, information security and U.S. government, Botting had a car and driver taking her from her home in Greenwich, Connecticut to Manhattan and was often traveling around the world for high-level meetings. There was even a closet full of ball gowns that she wore to social events with the well-heeled. Then came the financial crisis of 2008, partnered with a divorce and other family issues, which led to disillusionment about the impact she was making. “Theoretically, I had arrived, but inside it was meaningless,” says Botting, 46, of Delray Beach.

NOW:

Sensing that others were feeling the same way, Botting began organizing conversation circles with people of all ages and backgrounds who shared a dissatisfaction with the way the future was unfolding.

What Botting described as cross-generational wisdom exchanges focused on identifying areas of concern and coming up with projects to address them. By 2013 Botting formalized the exchanges, creating what she called Wise Tribe while still in New York. After a short stint in California and New Smyrna Beach, she ran a pilot project with Boca’s FAU in 2016, and began organizing wisdom exchanges in Delray where food, learning and well-being emerged as the greatest interest. Soon Wise Tribe launched “Get Dirty in Delray,” a program with students and teachers from Carver Middle School that created container gardens. Now Botting is working with South Tech Academy charter school to launch the Food Citizenship Institute, which focuses on food sustainability and methods to grow food that are less destructive to the environment and public health, such as hydroponics.

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AARON BRISTOL

“Wise Tribe’s role is to bring people together and generate solutions for the community. It is a catalyst for positive change toward a healthier and sustainable future in a rapidly evolving world.”

january/february 2021

11/19/20 4:29 PM

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