Moda: The Print Issue

Fall 2014

CLASSIC MEN’S STYLE

CRAZY IN LOVE

WITH A ‘60s VIBE

WITH SOCIAL MEDIA’S TAKE ON ART HISTORY

TICK TOCK

WE STILL HAVE TIME FOR MECHANICAL WATCHES (AND YOU SHOULD TOO)

The

ARTS Issue

MODA CHLOE KARASKIEWICZ Editor-in-Chief Deputy Editor Caroline Kreul Creative Director Mekea Larson Art Director Jesse Tovar Fashion Editor Paige Schultz Lifestyle Editor Jennifer Anderson Social Editor Barbara Gonzalez Arts Editor Brontё Mansfield Men’s Editor Andrew Connor Photography Director Roberto Leon Contributing Writers Allie Jeka, Anne Koepp, Dan Kershner, Jake Hollister, Jessica Hamilton, Karina De-Bourne, Kayleigh Hong, Lanni Solochek, Margaret Duffey, Marissa Monett, Meg Rotter, Paige Cero, Phebe Myers, Sarah Friedland, Taylor Lee-Clarahan, Taylor Palmby Photographers Alexandra Folino, Claire Larkins, Dan Kershner, Halie Conyers, Hanayo Hasegawa Jordan Kaster Schultz, Paige Cero, Roberto Leon Models Anais Reyes, Grace Jennings, Jake Hollister, Kallan Swenson, Madeline Schmid, Sharaya Holtrop, Yulie Qiao WUD Publications Committee Director Katie Van Dam WUD Publications Committee Advisor Jim Rogers WUD President Sarah Bergman With greatful appreciation to Caleb Foust, Cameron Smith, Kelsey Daykin, Kristen Tracy, Madeline Schmid, Sarah Friedland, Simone Greblo, Taylor Palmby, Xinyi Wang, Yue Li

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 3

MODA FALL 2014

photographed by Alexandra Folino

SOCIAL

FASHION

on the COVER

7 THE HEALING POWER OF

22 DRESSING YOUR AGE

Yulie Qiao photographed by Claire Larkins

THE ARTS

Art and music therapy can help heal the mind, body and soul.

9 CREATIVE CATALYST

Spoken word art serves as a mechanism for social change.

24 WHY YOUR NOODLE LIKES TO DOODLE

What drives your brain to write down more than just notes in class?

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Transition to a professional wardrobe while maintaining youthful grace.

26 THE (DISAPPEARING) ART OF FASHION

The rise of the consumer is prompting designers to take the artistry off of the runways.

42 A FOREIGN PERSPECTIVE ON AMERICAN STYLE

The British perspective on style sheds light on the inherent flaws in American conformative fashion.

Lace top, Lovers + Friends BOP Necklace, stylist’s own Skirt, Clover Canyon BOP

30 SEEING OR BELIEVING

A sartorial exploration of perspective.

LIFESTYLE 11 AN ODE TO THE MODERN WOMAN Contemporary sexism provokes a response to traditional gender roles and the foundations of feminism.

28 INSIDE THE COLLECTOR’S CIRCLE

The captivating story of the mechanical watch and its renaissance in the modern world.

38 ‘60s STYLE FOR THE MODERN MAN

Reflecting on fit and styling techniques in modern men’s fashion leaves more than traces of the ‘60s.

13 ALL THE SINGLE LADIES

A look at the value of investing in a relationship with yourself.

14 THE NOVELTY OF BEAUTY Beauty looks inspired by literary classics.

25 I DON’T KNOW HOW SHE DOES IT The collegiate lifestyle requires an intense balancing act.

ART 8

MY ANACONDA DON’T WANT NONE UNLESS YOU GOT ART, HON The networked generation puts a comedic spin on classic works of art.

36 PICTURE PERFECT

As the entertainment industry dismisses sexual exploitation as “art,” many are prompted to look from the victims’ point of view.

40 TAGGED

Artistic expression or vandalism? A discussion of street art with Station 16’s Marketing Director and UW Alumna Alexandra Jagodzinski.

MEN’S 20 RAW

An inside look into local raw selvedge denim shop, Context Clothing. photographed by Claire Larkins

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 5

FROM THE EDITOR

ALL ABOUT ART They say that nothing is original any more. They say everything we create is only a reflection of what has already been created.

They are right.

But they are also wrong.

What we create now, tomorrow, throughout our lives, is a product of what we have learned—what we have seen and experienced. In that way, all that we create, and really all that we are, is ultimately unoriginal.

Why should our creations be any less original because they have threads tying to great works or great events? In regard to the overdone storylines of modern, mass produced romantic comedies: I understand precisely how badly Romeo and Juliet can be polluted, but then I would argue that those films are not exactly art.

What constitutes art, to me at least, is intelligence. It is smart art. These paintings, poems, works of fiction and nonfiction, photographs, etc. capture life as it is now, in a manner that acknowledges and builds on the collective experience of humanity—in art as it is in life.

These pieces discuss life as it happens, and in that, recognize and use the power of the artist’s own experience, the climate of their setting, their ideas about their present and our future. These pieces span many mediums, but in my eyes, they share a single, common trait: the provocation of thought.

Art hides or unmasks an artist’s person—their ideals, their soul, their wonder at the world. Deeper than liking, we have reactions toward powerful art. We see the comedy of a hidden political jab, we appreciate a subtle allusion, we laugh and cry with characters and subjects: great art makes us feel.

In this issue, we examine art of all varieties from street graffiti to apparel material and design, from casual doodles to the mechanical innards of the watch, from classic art reborn in pop culture to the tainted art of artists gone awry.

In the wake of our addition of an Arts section, we take this opportunity to reintroduce art as a lifestyle and reacquaint ourselves and our readers with the beauty that lines our streets and our minds.

Chloe

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the healing power of the arts

By Taylor Palmby

Much of the population is unaware of the possible healing powers that music and art therapy hold.

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hen I tell people that I want to be a music therapist they look at me with wide, questioning eyes. Most of the world has never heard about this alternative form of therapy, but both music and art therapy are growing in popularity and success.

Art and music therapy haven’t been around for very long. Although many people have been using art and music to express and calm themselves for years, it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that they were recognized as legitimate therapies.

Music therapy has found great success in helping children with Autism and elderly people with Alzheimer’s Disease. In autistic individuals, music can assist in improving focus and communication as well as making children become more aware of their surroundings. Music also has the ability to help Alzheimer’s patients re-access memories because people tend to associate memories with music. When Alzheimer’s patients hear a specific song it can often bring back a memory that has long been inaccessible. A response to music is seen very late into the progression of the disease because music elicits an active part in the patients’ brain, making them lucid much longer than other therapeutic forms. It can also be used to shift moods, manage relationships with family members, and handle stress.

You may have seen the movie “50 First Dates,” in which the patients at the hospital are seen doing art projects. The scene is one of passing but it actually holds great importance as it demonstrates a form of art therapy. Art therapy can help people

with a variety of disorders, including those with mental disabilities.

Art therapy also helps patients struggling with psychological disorders express themselves in a safe, nonjudgmental environment. It can be a huge reliever of stress, which is important as stress can complicate many psychological disorders including depression.

These types of therapy are helpful not only for those with a musical or artistic gift but those who do not excel at the arts as well. Art therapists emphasize that it is the process of making art that is so therapeutic, not the final product. Often, music therapists will play the patient a certain type of music rather than actually having the patient play. The focus is never on the skill level but on a patient’s inner feelings and emotions. For many, music and art therapy are a great supplement or alternative to pharmacological treatments that may have severe side effects.

Music and art therapy are beautiful forms of expression that can help people cope and even heal. This form of therapy is growing in popularity and can be a wonderful career option for anyone who is interested in integrating a career in art with helping others.

If you are interested in finding a music therapist, musictherapywisconsin.org offers a comprehensive list of all music therapists in the area.

Editor’s Note: While art therapies have few negative effects and are not necessarily diagnosis-specific, please consult a trained professional before altering a current treatment or therapy plan. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 7 photo by liz west

MY ANACONDA DON’T WANT NONE UNLESS YOU GOT ART, HON The field of art history is experiencing a strange kind of renaissance, finding new life in the world of social media—and the results are as priceless as a famous work of art.

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nyone scrolling haphazardly through their Facebook newsfeed these days will notice an intriguing trend across a variety of social mediums: the appropriation of famous artworks into comedic images, with pop culture captions. While that first year art history survey course may be a bit of a snooze, these memes are anything but.

One of the most popular examples of this phenomenon is Fly Art. Fly Art’s creative empire started on tumblr and garnered enough attention that the makers now have their own clothing line. The creators attribute boredom, frustration, and the Internet to their unique blending of the finer things in life: art and hip-hop. They also drew inspiration from similar tumblr blogs, such as “The Carter Family Portrait Gallery: Vivid snapshots of the life and times of The Carters—Jay Z, Beyoncé, and little Blue Ivy—as captured by their official portrait artist.” The blog consists of classical art—from Renaissance to Pop Art—photoshopped to include the beautiful faces of the Carter family in every composition. Perhaps even more amusing is the hilarious blog, “Art History’s Burn Book,” in which quotes from “Mean Girls” are incorporated with great works of art.

Still other works layer brands over classical art. The tumblr blog “SwooshArt” integrates the Nike logo into paintings and sculptures with figures carrying, holding, or wearing the infamous “swoosh” emblem. Under the about section in the blog, the creator states, “This is 8 modamadison.com | fall 2014

By Anne Koepp, Arts Writer

what I do when I am bored.” What is truly genius and unique about these blogs is that choosing the “right” symbol with the “right” painting is an art form in and of itself—a new medium which takes a witty mind and creative spirit.

But the memes do not only incorporate quotes, lyrics and brands already in pop culture. In fact, some offer their own personal interpretations of and reactions to pieces of art. The tumblr page “If Paintings Could Text” incorporates tidbits of text conversations in a “revival of classical art and epic texts.” Buzzfeed has also featured collections of originally captioned art in museums, this time using the Snapchat text tool. These large collections of hilarious Snapchats are attributed to the tumblr user Lyxdelsic, joking “Snapchat has increased museum attendance by at least 125,000%. Looks like Lyxdelsic started a trend.”

With an “if you can’t beat them, join them” attitude, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art has recently become the first art museum to join Snapchat: lacma_museum, embracing the social media + art trend to market and promote their collections.

The creative force of the social media-driven young adult joins forces with the genius of the past to give historic pieces a contemporary, comedic spotlight. If not everyone is an art historian, how can the interest in this medium be accounted for?

Maybe art history alone is not everyone’s idea of a good time, but the sharing of great and important works in a casual, familiar setting makes them more accessible. Perhaps this is simply the product of a new, disenchanted generation, spoofing lazily on the cultural products of the past; or, more optimistically, these tumblrs and snaps are the enthusiastic buzz of a generation using the technology at its fingertips to interact with and disseminate art and culture on a scale we have never seen before.

Image Credits Top: flyartproductions.tumblr.com, @megalops Bottom: flyartproductions.tumblr.com

CREATIVE CATALYST Photo by Max Wolfe

By Barbara Gonzalez, Social Editor

Art has the power to shift perspectives in a way that can create change. Some artists not only want you to see through their lens; they want you to do something about it.

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eople consume art for a variety of different reasons. Sometimes it is for entertainment, an escape away from the world and all of its problems. However, some pieces do the exact opposite. The artist’s intention of creating the piece is to force you to see the world for what it is, and challenges you to fight and fix it. In the hands of an activist, art can become the initial spark to create a movement and revitalize its consumers.

Rain Wilson is the associate director of the First Wave Hip Hop Arts Community as well as a Senior Advisor at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.

While she has participated in a variety of mediums, such as visual art and acting, she considers writing to be the trunk of her tree—what everything else stems from.

She uses her work to revolt against systems that oppress. “At the core of all the work that I do, it’s about being a voice for the voiceless. Whether

those people are voiceless because they’ve been misunderstood, because they’ve become invisible, whether they’ve been in prison or in spaces where they cannot really speak,” she says. “I try to be a voice for those who need to scream but for some reason cannot scream anymore or have never learned how to scream.”

One of Wilson’s most recent works is her play, “Jungle Kings,” a story about a young man who has been imprisoned for a gang crime. In the play she addresses the themes of the school-to-prison pipeline, achievement gaps, and increased levels of unemployment for young Black men. After each showing, she always makes sure to have a talk back with the audience in order to not only hear what everyone has felt as a result of her work, but to create a dialogue surrounding those feelings.

“I think one of the biggest reasons that dialogue is so important is that it shakes oppression loose at the root,” she says. “I see theatre and art as key players in how you create talk back, how you create community dialogue.”

Similarly, UW senior, Taylor Scott—a singer, songwriter, and spoken word artist in the First Wave program--creates art in order to inspire those who are oppressed and influence them to resist. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 9

“I think one of the biggest reasons that dialogue is so important is that it shakes oppression loose at the root. I see theatre and art as key players in how you create talk back, how you create community dialogue.”

The creator of the jazz and blues collaborative entitled “The Bellhops,” Scott incorporates themes such as womanhood and survival into her work. “I’m inspired by the truth,” she says. “I’m inspired to tell stories that other people can find their own voices in.”

do my show, he literally had to come out of it,” she says.

“Since then and the play, he said it just broke something in him. He realized now more than ever, that with the lifestyle he was living, he couldn’t mentor other young kids because he hadn’t been that example.”

Scott says that she writes for survival and that her content is oftentimes hard to swallow because it requires both contemplation and action. She quotes famous scholar, writer, and activist, Audre Lorde, in saying that “Poetry is not a luxury.”

Wilson says that he moved out of the city where he was, and continued to transform his life and continued his acting.

She accredits it to not only the themes of the play, but the process of the rehearsals. “There’s a love that is built out of and around the exercises and rehearsal processes that I create, and that’s so that we go through those spaces and we empower each other,” she says. “Some Black men have never had that. When you come through that rehearsal process, you will love yourself more, I hope, and you will know what it’s like to feel loved.”

Another commonality between Scott and Wilson is that they both desire to touch not only the oppressed, but also the oppressors. They don’t just hope to reach African American and cultural minority audiences, but also White audiences, who may not even know the fight has anything to do with them. To do this, Wilson calls upon White people to be active in the discussion, especially when it comes to her latest, most relevant topic of police brutality.

“If I’m speaking out against that as a Black woman, I need White women to also speak out against that,” she says. “Because it’s their husbands and their brothers and their sons who are killing our kids…the work is really about activating people and trying to fuel them in a way that they want to leave that space after leaving the show and really thinking about, ‘What can I do now?’ In all the shows I usually bring up books or materials or I’ll throw out names that maybe you want to read some of their work, or study some of their stuff. So that again, something that I do will kind of ignite the space. That’s always the goal.”

Wilson has already seen results in creating the change that she hopes to instill with her work. She talks about a Black mother who pledged to actively tell her sons that she loves them each day, creating a more loving home, and a teacher who realized by watching Rain’s play that she stopped caring about her students, and wanted to change that or stop teaching.

What stood out the most was when Wilson talked about a former cast member of the show, who came into the show as a gang member, and after participating in “Jungle Kings,” made an incredible change in his life.

“The rehearsal [for the show] was so intensive, for him to

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Wilson wants to pass on this spirit to the next generation of writers so that they can use their work as an instrument for change as well. “I’m always trying to message young people and remind them that we need their voice in the changes that are happening,” she says. “We need the next generation to lower all of this on their backs and say, ‘Look, you guys are young, we need you to carry some of this stuff. Some of us are tired, some of us don’t know what to do next, and we need your brilliance.’ The young people need to be heard, they need to be empowered to know how strong their voice is and how badly it’s needed.”

Wilson’s biggest inspiration for her art comes from writer Amiri Baraka. She describes him as a “fire-starter,” as she discusses the knowledge and truth that all writers have, but that he accentuates unapologetically. “When you have truth and you are willing to own it as an artist, you can’t hide from it and just write and leave it notebooks,” she says. “You have to move that forward and let it be claw and teeth in the world.”

After meeting Baraka, Wilson said that he told her to “poet on.” She said that this was the greatest affirmation for her, that this was something she could never stop.

“Even when it gets too crazy, when it gets too exhausting,” she says “Because it does, being an artist gets that way.

You carry so much in your pen and in your spirit. We’d love to relax, but right now is just not a time to relax. We can’t. We have to keep fighting. What tool do I have that is one of the many that can serve that best? I can fight with my pen and a paper.”

an ode to the modern woman

By Allie Jeka, Lifestyle Writer Grace Jennings photographed by Halie Conyers Living as a woman proves difficult when obstacles like gender stereotypes and verbal slander are so pervasive in our world. We as a society can only overcome these hurdles with a united appreciation and mutual respect for each other—independent of gender.

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ontrary to what society desperately insists, there is no “cookie cutter” woman. Rather, being a woman is about embracing one’s gender in a way that is best fit. To be a woman is to have confidence in one’s beliefs and way of life, refusing to allow this confidence to be shattered by the perceptions and stereotypes of society.

There is nothing wrong with being stereotypically “feminine.” Society seems to want to look down on

those who appreciate a good dose of sparkle. If you love pink, flowers, dresses, lace fabrics and homemaking, you are not “silly.” Similarly, there is nothing wrong with not being stereotypically “feminine.” Everyone should be able to like, prefer, enjoy whatever they want without the fear or receipt of a derogatory label. There aren’t traits that specifically belong to either gender, and the way society acts should reflect that.

In high school, one of my teachers started a discussion about whether or not sports teams should allow females to play sports alongside males. I remember arguing with a boy in my class who believed that women absolutely should not be able to play on the same sports teams as boys. He said that women would cause a distraction, that we wouldn’t be equal players, and that we would change the game. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 11

“YOU SHOULD

I do not play sports. I never had any shame” while men get to have PURSUE WHAT YOU of desire to be on a male sports team. “a victory walk.” If she is an adult, ARE PASSIONATE But this boy, blatantly saying that she is a woman, not a girl. Casually women have no place in a “man’s” throwing around the words “slut,” ABOUT BECAUSE sport, started a fiery passion in me that “bitch” and “pussy” is derogatory OUR PASSION IS I carry with me to this day. Ladies, I and needs to stop. Terms like these want us to change the game. The next THE TRUE VEHICLE automatically suggest that women generation’s female athletes, such as THROUGH WHICH are unequal and inferior.

Mo’ne Davis, who was the first Little WE TOUCH THE League baseball player to appear on Emma Watson bravely pushed the cover of Sports Illustrated after LIVES OF OTHERS.” us in the right direction with her being the first girl to pitch a shutout at immensely inspiring “HeForShe” the 2014 Little League World Series, speech. In her address, she defined are already making waves and exemplify the real feminism as “the belief that men and women should possibility for change. have equal rights and opportunities. It is the theory of the political, economic, and social equality of the This is in no way suggests that females are better than sexes.” She offered a plan to close the gap in gender males, but rather serves as a call to action to end anyone equality: “If we stop defining each other by what we from looking down on, undervaluing or victimizing are not and start defining ourselves by what we are— females because of their gender. We need to break the we can all be freer.” stereotypes and strive for equality.

The obstacles imposed on us by stereotypes do not A woman’s career should also have no bearing on her stop at the expense of only women. These stereotypes pride. Whether one is a CEO, a volunteer, a waitress or a affect males, too. We should not make fun of a man mother, the work all females, all people, do is important. because he does not fit into what society has deemed We should put a stop to derogatory comments about “manly.” Men, too, are allowed to have feelings, like stay-at-home moms, while simultaneously repressing whatever they like, be stay-at-home parents and express notion of women having a “rightful place.” themselves as they wish.

To all of the moms out there, you are magnificently important. You shape the lives of your children. You give them support and comfort, and guide them to be the best people they can be. Being an amazing mother takes dedication, love and patience—skills that do not always come easily. But I have seen countless mothers, mine included, put aside everything else and put their children first. This selflessness is extraordinarily valuable because it shapes the lives of children and will in turn shape how they influence others.

By respecting each other on a level above gender, simply as people, and by being conscious of the words we use, we can and will make a monumental difference. Society has a way of sneaking stereotypes into our minds and words into our mouths, and often we casually use these without thinking twice about their meaning. Making conscious decisions about the way we think and talk about others may be a small step, but it is a step in the direction of equality. For everyone.

However, not every woman chooses to get married or have kids. And this should be each, individual woman’s decision, free of societal pressure in either direction.

You should pursue what you are passionate about because our passion is the true vehicle through which we touch the lives of others. What you choose to do, and whatever you put out into the world, is important.

Author’s Note: The women in my life are some of the most inspiring, driven, intelligent, compassionate and amazing people I know. They are the people who have made colossal differences in my life, and I would like to offer this article as a celebration of them as well as a celebration of all women.

To make a positive change for both women and men, we must also overcome the verbal stereotypes that society uses as weapons to define both genders. We can start by making small changes in the way we talk in everyday conversation. Women should not get “a walk

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ALL THE SINGLE LADIES Our generational shift towards accepting and celebrating single life allows women a chance to “find themselves” without constantly searching for Mr. Right.

By Phebe Myers Fashion Writer

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y parents recently celebrated their 28th wedding anniversary. My dad wrote my mom a love song and performed it for her on the guitar. They describe the start of their relationship as the moment when they saw each other from across a room and simply “knew” they were soul mates destined to be together forever. Yeah, I know, this type of bullshit usually only exists in movies.

With those two as my precedent, I spent the first years of my dating life chasing that world-halting love affair.

I had my first “boyfriend” in 6th grade, and he eventually broke up with me, leaving me heartbroken for a few short weeks before I moved on to my next victim. I dated all sorts of random people, with whom I had nothing in common—not out of fear of being alone, but out of hope for a whirlwind romance. This type of romance happens at any age, but it is harmful when you spend more attention on seeking love than your own personal development.

When I got to college, I realized that you can have that same kind of romance with yourself. We are living in an era of a generational shift towards women’s empowerment, and embracing the single life. The idea of women on college campuses searching for a husband or their “MRS. Degree” is scorned by the strong modern woman.

I have friends who run for the hills at the very idea of a boyfriend, a girlfriend or being in a relationship. It’s not because they aren’t interested in aspects of the romantic life, but because they are enjoying life more on their own than they would be in a relationship.

The fact is, women can spend time focusing on personal goals, without societal pressure to settle down. Many choose the single life for the freedom to experience college on their own. College is a time for self-discovery, and this doesn’t have to include a relationship. When one is going through monumental changes (“Mom I’m a vegan,” “Dad I’m joining the Peace Corps,” and other traditional collegiate ideals) it can be empowering to experience them alone.

When I did give up my single life last spring, it was because I met someone with striking similarities in personality and shared interests rather than just settling for anyone to fulfill my former Cinderella fantasy. For some, the idea of having a relationship fulfils the desire to text someone besides your mom (and believe me, I’ve experienced that as well), but when your focus shifts to an expansion of personal happiness and your relationship with yourself, any romance that comes up tends to be a continuation of self-love and appreciation.

When my boyfriend was telling his dad a story about us, he described himself as being in “a modern relationship with a strong independent woman who can pay for her own ticket to the Chapelle show,” and I was damn proud. That’s the way I want to be described, not as some young girl dreaming of Prince Charming.

It’s not about whether or not he “should have put a ring on it.” It’s about embracing yourself and your happiness whether on your own or with a worthy partner. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 13

THE NOVELTY OF BEAUTY Inside the covers of our favorite classics, Lifestyle Writers Kayleigh Hong and Meg Rotter find beautiful inspiration.

Through the ages, novels have been a source of inspiration for all who read them. Books can offer courage to those in need and guidance for those that find themselves lost. As readers are thrown into whirlwind adventures, they develop a connection with the characters and begin to see the world through their eyes, often finding a deeper connection to the story. Moda brings these characters and themes to life in beauty.

Make-Up by Jennifer Anderson and Madeline Schmid Modeled by Anais Reyes and Sharaya Holtrop Photographed by Roberto Leon 14 modamadison.com | fall 2014

“Heart of Darkness� is the story of a man drawn into the wilderness, later becoming both physically and mentally lost in the jungle life. Messy curls teased into a chaotic mess represent a loss of control. This deep winged liner with earthy green eye shadow draws elements of the nature to symbolize a connection to the wild and the natural instincts discovered there. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 15

The “Fifty Shades of Grey” trilogy introduced a newly dysfunctional and delicious type of relationship. Dark gray and black dominate the color for this look, not only because of the book’s title, but also because of the tension over the “gray” areas of Anastasia and Christian’s relationship. The featured mask makes a not so subtle nod to blindfolded bondage, but also represents how Ana hides behind the world of BDSM as she navigates through an unknown territory of love.

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Truman Capote’s “In Cold Blood” is the chilling narration inspired by the true story of a family, brutally murdered in their farmhouse one night. The paleness of the model’s skin embodies that of a corpse distanced from reality. The deep red of the lips denotes the blood and emotional intensity of the late Clutter family. Unattached and slightly amused, the model mirrors the unraveled minds of the murderers.

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 17

Elizabeth Bennet is one of the strongest leading women in early classic novels. With intelligence, sharp wit and strong opinions, she refuses to settle for anything less than what she desires. These defined, full brows emphasize her strong will with the help of bronzer contouring to create a powerful jaw. Using softer elements like nude lipstick and natural eye shadow, Elizabeth’s softer side in love rounds out our portrait of the “Pride & Prejudice� beauty.

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Moda Magazine presents...

UW FASHION WEEK March 9-13, 2015 Finale Fashion Show Friday, March 13, 2015

Don’t miss out on this week-long fashion event!

Past UWFW events have included guest speakers, blogger panels, and a couture party featuring UW-Madison student designs.

For more information, visit

modamagazine.com

Sketch by Madalyn Manzeck

RAW

Behind the scenes of one of America’s finest denim shops.

Written and Photographed by Dan Kershner, Men’s Writer

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henever a new customer walks into Context Clothing on King Street and asks co-owner and creative director Ryan Huber if anything in store is made in Madison, his eyes light up. That European Goose Down insulated coats and Japanese shuttle-loom woven denim exist on the same shelves as American flannel and Wisconsin leather goods so innocuously speaks to the retailer’s mastery of many domains in premium workwear. The pace here is café racer to crotch rocket, crunchy stiff selvedge to cotton blends—so packed with variety that customers walking into the shop might go unnoticed for minutes or more. This is also likely because a denim trading odyssey between the resident expert on call and an enraptured blue-jean disciple is still underway. Every member of Context’s team of five will gladly lead a customer through the many intricacies of America’s greatest sartorial contribution, advising on how a pair of jeans is a perfectly suited in manufacture, construction, fit, material and of course, mystique.

Without the cultivation of this mystique at Context, the $300 blue jean trade would be trying to say the least.

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This is raw selvedge denim we’re talking about though— the most fetishized menswear item of the last ten years.

Few articles of clothing can gradually become one with the wearer like raw denim and its unique patina that has become a thing of legend. In online forums, thousands and thousands of denim-heads around the world have, more or less, reached a consensus on the perfect breed of the perfect wardrobe staple. Proper jeans must be unwashed and untreated with chemicals, consist of finely sourced cotton and indigo dye, and be woven using the age-old shuttle-loom technology, ensuring unmatched quality and durability afforded by a “selvedge” construction.

Several years ago, Ryan Huber was one of those fervent denim nerds, frequenting the message boards and preoccupied with seeking out mid-20th century, vintage Levi’s and Lee specimens. While working at the Great Dane Pub with Sam Parker, the two discovered that they not only shared a taste for craft brews, but also for smallbatch clothing. Seeing potential in the same serviceminded, premium-heritage philosophy that made the

Great Dane a huge success, the two set out to establish a new type of denim outpost.

On bringing Context to the capital, Huber noted that, “we wanted to create a store for our neighborhood and for the people in Madison, but we knew that there was a very similar customer elsewhere.” Clearly, the team was well aware that launching a shop stocked with little more than expensive raw denim was unheard of in the Midwest.

Still, Huber, Parker and Co. knew that carefully stocking prestige brands in Momotaro, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, and RRL would tap into the quality over quantity culture that already had resonated so profoundly online. Integrated with a newly initiated e-commerce arm, Context found success in curating the right brands, photographing their stock artfully, and providing a global shipping and service network in addition to the brick and mortar establishment.

About three years into the project is when Huber recalls that the store’s approach was nearly “dialed in.” The team found a great balance in wholesale stock, limited release denim collaborations, as well as the décor and presentation of analogue and digital retail spaces. All the while, Parker and Huber’s seasonal trips to New York for trade shows saw them making fast friends with labels and the press.

High profile publications like GQ were eager to market an Americana movement through the lens of a heartland business like Context.

Over the next few years, Context brandished its high profile and used it to facilitate hugely successful collaborative projects like the Alden + Context Roy Boot, created for the store. Top tier brands like Band of Outsiders, Apolis and Engineered Garments also serve as wholesale partners season in and out. Today, the retailer is home to around forty brands, the large majority of which don’t even manufacture denim, and the shop is firmly established in craft work-wear lore. Huber states that their brand has room to grow in places outside of the clothing retail sphere, and into those environments that have served as a source of inspiration for the store’s aesthetic. Think of those Gastro-Pubs, barber shops, and motorcycle garages where blue jeans have long been creased and scuffed.

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DRESSING YOUR AGE

THE SWEATER DRESS The ever-expanding world of knits finds its way into your 20s through sweater dresses.

Paired with a shoe appropriate to the occasion, this dress will sophisticatedly represent you in each and every venture.

WARDROBE ESSENTIALS FOR THE MODERN 20 SOMETHING Have you ever questioned how to style a polished, casual and youthful everyday look? Editorial Fashion Assistant Marissa Monett shows you how.

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EARRINGS Adina by Adina Reyter Tiny Bar Post Earrings, $66 simplysoles.com

BRACELETS Gorjana Taner Charm Bracelet, $45 piperlime.gap.com Tai Evil Eye Tip Bracelet – Gold, $95 neimanmarcus. com

CLUTCH Clare V Foldover Clutch, $220 piperlime.gap. com

SWEATER Tizianae oversized mohair-blend sweater

by Marlene Birger, $345 net-a-porter.com

hey say your 20s are for experimenting, taking chances and self-discovery.

What that means is up to you. This decade is filled with ambiguity and exploration, and finding yourself is all part of the fun. However, with a new adventure around every corner, building a comprehensive wardrobe that is appropriate for all of your journeys is not exactly easy.

TIGHTS Merona Women’s Control Top Sheer Tights, $10 target.com

Your 20s mark a turning point in style. These are the years for trying trends and taking chances, but they are also the years for establishing who you are.

Therefore, contrary to the decade’s uncertainty, there are a few essentials that every 20-something needs. From everyday life and casual occurrences to professional ventures and nighttime excursions, these staples are fundamental to presenting your new adulthood in a polished yet youthful manner. Trendy enough to show off your ambition and classic enough to carry you through the years, start dressing your age right now with these fresh wardrobe staples.

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BOOTS French Blu Women’s Over the Knee Boots, $60 target.com

THE NEW TEE

PERFECT BOOTS

Although always an essential, the tee needs an upgrade every once in a while. A linen material or contemporary detailing adds just the right amount of maturity.

Boots are crucial for every age, but in your 20s, aim for refined originals. Declare your new fortitude by adding a pop of color to knee-highs or a heel to Chelsea booties.

NECKLACE Brushed Bar Pendant Necklace, $22 jeweliq.com

EARRINGS Gorjana Vista Studs, $45 piperlime.gap.com

RINGS Dailylook Matte Shield Ring, $7.99 dailylook.com Sole Society Gold Band Set, $20 solesociety.com

T-SHIRT Band of Outsiders Shirting Pocket Tee, $245 lagarconne.com

T-SHIRT Daniel Rainn Solid Shift Tee, $30 piperlime.gap.com

BRACELETS Gorjana Shimmer Bar Bracelet, $64 zappos.com House of Harlow Modern Tribal Pave Bangle Bracelet, $95 dailylook.com Lola James Ice Box Heart Bracelet, $80 simplysoles.com

BRACELETS Gorjana Taner Charm Bracelet, $45 piperlime.gap.com Tai Evil Eye Tip Bracelet – Gold, $95 neimanmarcus. com

TROUSERS Greyson Cady Tapered Pants

by Elizabeth and James, $146 theoutnet.com TROUSERS TOPSHOP Floral Grid Jersey Tapered Trousers, $40 topshop.com

TOTE Madewell The Transport Tote $168, shopbop.com

BOOTIES ALDO KENDIS Ankle boots, $175 zalando.co.uk

BOOTIES Topshop ‘Missile’ Chelsea Boot, $130 nordstrom.com

BAG Victoria’s Secret Studded Crossbody Bag, $40 victoriassecret.com

SIMPLE GOLD JEWELRY

TAPERED TROUSERS

It takes years to build a staple set of everyday accessories, so start investing in simple gold pieces that are modest enough to wear with all of your looks and distinct enough to fit your personal style.

The loose tailoring of these trousers allows them to excel in terms of comfort and appearance. Styled up or down, these tapered pants cooperate with your many lifestyle functions.

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WHY YOUR NOODLE LIKES TO DOODLE

By Sarah Friedland Doodles and drawings can mean much more than a wandering mind.

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f you’re like me, you have the attention span of a goldfish—about three seconds. When lecture ends, not only do you realize that your notebooks don’t have any notes, but they are filled with tiny drawings. While one might think that these doodles are simple ways of keeping us entertained, studies have found that there are mental benefits to drawing in the margins The Wall Street Journal discovered many pros to doodling. One of the most commonly referenced is the ability of those who doodle to recall information.

Most doodlers say that when they look back on their doodles, they remember what was being said at the time.

Rostron explores the meaning behind various doodles, stating that this is possible because “we are usually only half conscious of what we’re drawing… our inner preoccupations surface on paper.”

Research shows that doodles of winged creatures display the desire to escape some internal conflict.

So if you draw fairies, birds, bees, or butterflies, you may be fighting yourself without even realizing it.

Others spend their time doodling people and faces are some of the most diverse doodles. Profiles indicate introversion, while funny faces show the desire to be the center of attention. Pretty faces are said to mean that you can see the good in people, and ugly faces may mean you are distrusting.

Missing facial features indicate that you feel your life is fragmented. Drawing a full body, however, means you are in control of all of your emotions.

Dr. Jesse Prinz, who draws faces during lectures and conferences, says when he returns to the drawing later, he “can reconstruct a lot of what [he] heard.”

Dr. Prinz compares his experience to looking at a postcard. When a traveler looks at a postcard, they are able to remember more of their trip despite the fact that post cards do not depict the entire vacation.

Other common doodles include shapes and lines.

Most of these—such as arrows, ladders, stars, zigzags, and intricate patterns—indicate an upward trajectory and show ambition. More obviously, hearts are said to be romantic, showing that you are in love.

Graduate student Michiko Maruyama, draws “daily doodles” after lectures to help her piece together what she learned. As a personal experiment, Maruyama stopped doodling for a week. She found, even after such a short time, that her grades dropped.

The supposed meaning of doodles are also dependent on the way in which they are drawn.

Smooth, curved lines show harmony and the need for affection. Straight lines mean you are down-toearth. Zigzags and triangles show determination while caution takes the form of sketchy strokes.

Some argue that aside from improving memory, doodles can tell you a lot about your life. Ruth Rostron, handwriting analyst, wrote an article based on her research of doodles, appearing in the journal of The British Institute of Graphologists.

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So pay attention to your doodles—your subconscious is knocking.

I DON’T KNOW HOW SHE DOES IT

Feeling like you just can’t get your balance? Refresh five areas of your life to walk life’s tightrope—even in heels!

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hile standing in my apartment’s kitchen, making chocolate chip pumpkin bread during my lunch break, I’m reminded that I am doing it all. Sometimes it feels like I only get free time one hour a week, but I would not change it for the world. It’s in these rare moments of down time when I am struck at how full my life is. I have utterly jampacked my schedule with student organizations, a job, challenging classes, volunteering, time for exercise and a fulfilling social life.

Every college student uses their time to accomplish different things, but there’s no doubt we are all busy in one way or another. The beauty of attending college is the diversity of everyone’s goals. While I’m not an expert, I have learned that there are certain components to a successful lifestyle that make this balancing act easier to manage.

1. Get a Better Attitude

Change your mindset. Before you look at your phone each morning,

By Jessica Hamilton, Lifestyle Writer Kallan Swenson photographed by Hanayo Hasegawa

reflect on something you are thankful for. Kaitlyn Harding of the UW women’s hockey team emphasizes that, “sometimes there will be tests that you fail, there will be days where you feel like everything is not going the way you want it to… Having a good attitude and enjoying the important things can help you find balance in your life.”

2. Prioritize

Making lists and schedules is key.

Don’t know where to start your mound of homework? Begin with what is due first and work backwards.

If you’re feeling too overwhelmed, take things hour by hour. Be the person with the color-coordinated planner and school supplies.

3. Exercise

Like athletes who are required to attend practices and games, learn to block time in your schedule for working out as if it is just another class or meeting. Once that time rolls around, be diligent about going for a walk or heading to a class at the gym.

4. Plan Meals

Don’t make food another stressful aspect of your life. Lexi Stutzman, president of the Public Relations Student Society of America, advises against eating out multiple times per week despite having a busy schedule.

To achieve this, plan out your meals or make crock-pot meals. You’ll save time worrying about what to eat and money not splurging on greasy fast food.

5. Pursue Passions

It’s simple: do what makes you happy.

Discover clubs you enjoy or find a job you don’t dread going to. Stutzman suggests filling your time with activities you are passionate about, like she does with PRSSA, so they do not feel like a burden.

Being in college is a privilege we often take for granted as midterms take their toll on our spirits, but looking at each day as an opportunity to learn better, live better and be better can change your world.

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THE (disappearing) ART OF FASHION

By Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Photographed by Roberto Leon

As designers fight to stay relevant to consumers and their pocketbooks, the artistry of fashion dwindles and threatens to become obsolete.

Simply put, consumers find high fashion unapproachable, and the notion of “wearable art”?

Well, they’re not buying it—literally or figuratively.

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In response to this, designers have begun to change the industry dynamic by bringing commercialism to the catwalk. Starting notably with spring 2015 fashion month, many brands implemented this strategy by showcasing wearable designs in classic and versatile shapes. Additionally, they focused

the fashion elite and the consumer for years. For designers, editors and other influencers of the industry, fashion is the culmination of cultural trends woven together to create wearable art. Yet for the consumer, fashion is much less macrocosmic—they are not as entranced by the metaphor of design if it is exclusive to the runway and inaccessible to their personal styles.

on simpler trendswith a particular emphasis on minimalist, utilitarian and athletic-inspired looks.

As a result, several shows appeared to have similar aesthetics, creating a general sense of uniformity among the collections presented in each fashion capital.

here is perhaps no greater tension in the fashion industry than that caused by the gap between accessibility and exclusivity.

Distinct to the high-fashion sector, this dichotomy has notoriously created a divide between

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With that, “art” was virtually taken out of the equation, leaving clothes that were wearable and, well, not much else.

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2014

Michael Kors Spring 2015

Preen by Thornton Bergazzi Spring 2015

Runway photos courtesy of Style.com

Arguably, this effect is not exactly disastrous for the industry—especially in terms of profit and expansion.

According to New York Times fashion critic, Cathy Horyn, “straightforward, commercial clothes used to be the antithesis of high fashion; now, they are the benchmark.”

Elaborating on this notion, Fashionista.com’s Editor-inChief, Lauren Indvik, explained that “there’s a newfound admiration for designers who…have proven themselves as creatives with a dual talent for business: not just artists, but artists who sell.”

This is supported economically as the struggling luxury market has caused many brands to reevaluate how they target consumers. Burberry Prorsum, for example, has recently repositioned itself with its strong yet consumerfriendly fall 2014 collection, which drove its six-month period sales up by 14 percent as of September 2014. This figure demonstrates how opting for a mass appeal can open up the possibility for substantial profit, and furthermore, exemplifies how unveiling this strategy at fashion week can create potential for global expansion.

However, as with any business plan, there are tradeoffs. In the case of high fashion, appealing to the masses generates threats of over-distribution. This ultimately strips brands of their exclusivity, making them synonymous with their competitors or worse, irrelevant to the consumer altogether.

Previously, in an effort to satisfy customers’ needs without sacrificing brand prestige, designers like Peter Pilotto opted to collaborate with mainstream shopping destinations like Target. Similarly, some brands created lines that stemmed off of their luxury sector, like Michael Kors when he created MICHAEL by Michael Kors. Unfortunately these

strategies are no longer enough for the consumer, and consequently, commercialism has maneuvered its way onto the runway, resulting in lackluster collections that promise higher accessibility.

With this in mind, the greater problem with the commercialization of high fashion goes beyond the accessibility-exclusivity dichotomy. Since its origination, the runway has served as a breeding ground for innovation and inspiration. However, as brands focus more on appeasing the buyer, these trademarks of the industry medium become lost. At first, this consequence doesn’t seem significant, as the art initially created by these designers is not feasibly be worn by most. Yet making the mistake of believing this is exactly where we go wrong.

In its purest form, fashion was never meant to be convenient, approachable or easily deciphered. Arguably, some designs were not even destined to be worn; rather their purpose was to make a statement that epitomizes the essence of culture, people and ideas. In that sense, it would be absurd for fashion to be mainstream as it was meant to be the opposite from the outset. Sadly, as brands push for the commercialization of runway, the artistry of fashion disappears, leaving people with products that serve only to clothe, only to be worn.

There is something valuable to designers who sell—all brands require a profit to stay afloat. But is there value in designers who creatively sell out?

Perhaps we’ll leave that to the consumer, too. fall 2014 | modamadison.com 27

INSIDE THE COLLECTOR’S CIRCLE A movement for quality, craftsmanship and beauty in the essential timepiece.

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Written and photographed by Paige Cero

here once was a time when products were made because consumers needed them.

There once was a time that products were made to last. There once was a time when people wore watches fit for their profession, not because of their appearance, or because their iPhone fell in the toilet. Today most watches are for accessorizing, with an emphasis on trendiness and a lack of function. Prior to the 1980s, the watchmaking industry held an aura of supreme craftsmanship.

What Does Craftsmanship Bring?

Watchmaking began in cottage “in-house production” studios and grew to remote shops in the Alps. Weeks were spent crafting each part of a single watch. With the industrial revolution came specialization in watch making. In order to become

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more efficient, each part of the watch was handcrafted by a specialist who provided their pieces to big brand names such as Rolex or Phillippe.

This precision and craftsmanship continued until the ‘80s.

“If you’ve ever looked at the back of the mechanical wrist watch you’ll see that it’s a machine, that’s designed by humans, that’s incredibly accurate and incredibly small,” notes Jacob Sotak, Chief Operating Officer of Analog/Shift, a vintage timepiece collection company that works with partners to find, analyze and match vintage timepieces with collectors.

“Like cars, that have a complex engine designed to perform a specific function, whose function has become more complex and varied over time, wrist-

watches take their complex movements and functions and place them in 30 to 46 millimeters, not substantial cubic feet,” said Sotak. The ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s were worked within 30mm; that’s about the size of a lady’s watch today. The ‘70s brought an explosion of larger watches, but the increase in size was for style, rather than for fitting mechanics.

emergence of small companies come and revitalize the mechanical watch industry.

Craftsmanship and quality are the new movement in wristwatches. Already we’re seeing some new watches that are bringing back quality. For example, the Twin Cities, once home to a watchmaking school, is now the “IF YOU’VE EVER LOOKED location of the Padron Watch AT THE BACK OF THE What Happened to Watch Company, started by Leo Quality?

Padron. Padron found a strong MECHANICAL WRIST curiosity for the mechanics of WATCH YOU’LL SEE Watch construction took a objects that overpowered his THAT IT’S A MACHINE, nosedive in the 1980s and career. He began researching ‘90s. Mechanical watches the construction of watches DESIGNED BY HUMANS, powered by gears and springs and now produces a line of THAT’S INCREDIBLY need to be rewound each mechanical and quartz crystal ACCURATE AND year as they generally lose an watches funded by Kickstarter. hour. Companies in the ‘80s He has three styles: the Vuelta, INCREDIBLY SMALL.” discovered they could use the Tessera and the Hennepin. batteries regulated by quartz His one-man business sells crystal to keep more precise time. “This is the atom watches from $250-$550. bomb of watch making; this closed down Swiss manufacturers,” said Sotak. “I cannot express how devastating this invention and use was.”

Quartz watches are made from a circuit board, quartz crystal, a stepping motor and a dial train. The circuit carries the electrical charge between the vibrations of the quartz crystal to the stepping motor. The stepping motor turns the charge into mechanical energy, which, with the help of the dial train, moves the dial on the watch. These pieces allowed for the mass production of the inner workings of a watch, as opposed to the meticulous construction of gears by specialists in mechanical watches.

Companies used to spend weeks constructing the mechanical watch battery, but the industry’s desire for quantity replaced quality. Even Rolex used these batteries. But interestingly enough, quartz watch batteries don’t save us much time. They may keep more accurate time, but you’re advised to replace the quartz crystal battery to offset the chance of acid leakage. This actually takes as much time as recalibrating a mechanical watch.

Future of Watches?

Not all watches have stayed in the dark ages.

“They’re still building incredible watches. The art of watchmaking has not died, and will not,” assures Sotak. “There’s been an upsurge in mechanical watches lately.” He predicts we’ll see the brands that survived the quartz crisis continue to make mechanical watches, but we’ll also see a new

Photo by Nicola Belliti

Andrew Connor, Men’s Editor and a writer for gearpatrol.com, an online journal for men, advises the Seiko 5 as an entry level mechanical watch for budding collectors; especially those who might want to get in on the vintage scene. Seiko 5’s are Japanese made and cost anywhere around $50$200. “[The Seiko 5] is affordable, brand new or vintage,” said Connor. “It has high-end style while remaining simple and useful – 5’s are like Red Wings or Timberlands. They have a function, but they’re also attractive and timeless.”

You can also find affordable mechanical watches from makers like Kenneth Cole and Fossil, but regardless of the brand young collectors choose, one thing is clear: unlike new, flashy technology, mechanical wristwatches are a purchase that can last a lifetime and tell a story for years to come.

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 29

Seeing or believing Sometimes it takes a few looks to understand what it is that you’re looking at. Whether it be a painting, a sculpture or even a mirror, there is art in how we see.

Directed and Styled by Mekea Larson Modeled by Yulie Qiao Photographed by Claire Larkins Hair and Make-Up by Madeline Schmid 30 modamadison.com | fall 2014

Tank, Raquel Allegra Iona Jacket, Jack Bop Pants, Big Star Bop Necklace, IOSSELLIANI Iona

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 31

Dress, BB Dakota Bop Fur shawl, Elliat Bop Necklace, Jenny Bird Twigs

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Lace top, 34 modamadison.com | fall 2014 Lovers + Friends Bop Necklace, stylist’s own

Dress, T by Alexander Wang Bop fall 2014 | modamadison.com 35own Necklace, Stylist’s Ring, Valerj Pobegam Iona

PICTURE PERFECT

By Margaret Duffey, Taylor Lee-Clarahan and Arts Writer Lanni Solochek

Hiding behind lenses, fashion photographer Terry Richardson and film director Woody Allen have remained relatively unscathed as models and former family members, respectively, come forward with stories of sexual abuse. But the blind eye turned by the arts and entertainment industries is prompting many to view the artists through a new lens: that of the victims.

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ex sells: it is a mantra redundantly and loudly chanted throughout the arts and entertainment industries. But what is the true cost of this model? What happens when it is the industry that is perpetuating the exploitation of women? Recently, artistic icons Terry Richardson and Woody Allen have both been called out on multiple allegations of the sexual harassment, assault, and molestation of women and girls—but these men continue to be praised for their art and forgiven for their predation. While this type of sexual abuse occurs just as frequently outside of these industries as within them, the general nonchalance towards Richardson and Allen highlights the blatant disregard for victims that permeates our society.

The ability of Richardson to use art as a justification for pressuring models into engaging in sexual acts with him reflects the failure of the fashion industry to differentiate art from sexual abuse. Richardson first revealed his controversial shooting style when he proudly described his own 2004 shoot featuring his intern going down on him from a trash can wearing a crown topped with the word “slut.” In

36 modamadison.com | fall 2014

Photo from byrnenotice.com

2005, Russian model Gabriela Johansson sued Richardson for publishing pictures he took of her by disguising a release form as a sign in sheet. Another model accused Richardson of snapping pictures of her while he ejaculated on her open eyes. The stories only get more horrific and frequent from there. While H&M, Target, Vogue, and W claim no future plans to work with Richardson, they are a part of the industry’s minority that is taking a stand against him. Modeling agencies continue to send their young no-name models to Richardson with the debilitating direction to do whatever he says if they want to make it in the industry. The fashion industry’s presumption of Richardson’s innocence or indifference to his guilt completely protect him from any consequences of his repulsive behavior.

In a situation all-too similar to that of Richardson, acclaimed film maker Woody Allen has also escaped appropriate repercussions for sexually abusing his stepdaughter, Dylan Farrow. After nearly 20 years of silence, Farrow wrote an open letter to her former stepfather addressing his molestation of her thenseven year old self. In her letter, Farrow says that

Photos: top right, Raffi Asdourian Bottom, Terry Richardson

Allen’s ongoing fame is “a living testament to the way our society fails the survivors of sexual assault and abuse.” As Farrow’s story became a media whirlwind, more responses surfaced as accusations against her than declarations of support for her, while Allen was honored at the Golden Globes with the Cecil B. DeMille Award for “outstanding contributions to the world of entertainment.” Allen’s responded to Farrow’s claims with a blatant denial of his crime, illustrating the pervasive societal dismissal of a victim’s experience. The unfaltering praise of Allen and the erasure of his crime allows an expectation of abuse to perpetuate in the media industry and beyond. As Allen continues to make work and receive awards, his abusive past is ignored and his status as a legend grows. This trend only promotes the lack of consequences for sexual assault perpetrators and creates an undeniable and irrefutable standard of behavior by media creators.

Woody Allen and Terry Richardson are iconic media figures. Their actions allow a standard and expectation of sexual assault to exist within the industry. Life imitates art: as artists continue to create violent imagery, their low standards permeate the wall separating the art world from the rest of society. Change starts by redirecting the tone of conversation surrounding sexual assault. Instead of encouraging models and actresses to achieve fame by any means necessary—such as subjecting themselves to Richardson’s degrading poses and forced sexual acts—empower them to succeed by their merits and talent. As an audience, we need to encourage safely and respectfully made media; we need to encourage higher expectations in the creation of media. If we as audience members and readers allow sexual exploitation to continue, it will continue to be normalized. Take the lens from the hands of the abuser and place it in the hands of the abused. Allow them to frame their own stories. Together, we can remove the “slut” crown from victims everywhere, and instead brand the likes of Richardson and Allen with their own word: predator.

fall 2014 | modamadison.com 37

All pieces stylist’s own

‘60s Style for the MODERN MAN

By Jake Hollister Jake Hollister and Madeline Schmid photographed by Roberto Leon

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t’s obvious that fashion trends have a tendency to be cyclic; past styles are often recycled with the occasional modern twist thrown in. The early 2000s saw ‘70s and ‘80s style making a small appearance with its bright color schemes and baggy pants, and more recently the slim and clean looks of the ‘60s are making waves This ‘60s style, which reflects a modern counterculture, started making an appearance in the media, which highly influences popular style sentiment. Flaunted by shows such as “Mad Men” and “American Horror Story,” ‘60s culture has been assimilated into modern fashion.

Modern style is riddled with fingerprints of ‘60s tailoring. The fit is slim, not tight, and hugs the silhouette of the body. Raw denim Jeans, Chinos and Khakis, once worn by James Dean, Marlon Brando and other iconic fashion figures of the era, are now adopted by today’s stylish and rebellious youth with modern twists in color schemes, patterns and textile use.

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In conjunction with ‘60s street style, rolled pant legs have seen an exponential rise in popularity.

The simple cuff adds a raw and individual twist for the wearer while still harking back to the days of the rebel without a cause. With the addition of the sock-less or non-visible socks trend, people want to flaunt their new sneaker choice, hence the roll. Throwing it back to Steve McQueen’s classic look, using chukkas (or modern variations of them) with a roll is rising in popularity as well, putting an emphasis on both the boots and the jeans.

Shirts and outerwear have also seen a large shift.

Leather jackets, zip-up bombers, tight-fitting Henleys and graphic tees have all been making massive resurgences, mimicking the looks of ‘60s fashion heartthrobs. Emphasizing the shape of the male body, tight fitting polos, button-ups, and graphic t-shirts all aim to take the place of the dying breed of v-necks.

Chukka Boot, J Shoes Jazzman Jeans, Seven for all Mankind Jazzman Leather Jacket, Sunglasses, and Shirt, stylist’s own

Ultimately, modern style is all about the emphasis of the individual, a common value shared and engineered by ‘60s style. Current trends will continue to be further influenced by modern sentiment and creativity, thus creating a unique sense of style while the basis of ‘60s style will endure and be the foundation for many future designs.

Slim-tailored suits paired with cunning and suave oxford shoes have become a common choice for young working men. More and more men are taking a progressive route to their styles, and aspiring for the sophisticated look put forth by shows like “Mad Men.” It goes without saying that the devil is also in the details; wool ties, tie clips, pocket squares and old school eyewear are all part of the ‘60s look as well.

Polo Shirt, Scotch & Soda Jazzman Trousers, Seven for all Mankind Jazzman Watch, stylist’s own

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Tagged

By Meg Rotter Photographed by Alexandra Folino Attitudes towards graffiti and street art are rapidly changing as contemporary artists shake off labels of vandalism and desecration to claim a corner of the more high-brow, exclusive fine arts market—one spray-paint can at a time.

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nspiration and beauty can be found anywhere, even somewhere as bleak as the women’s bathroom on the third floor of College Library. Sprawling across the stall’s pale blue are the words, “In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer.” That was enough of a pep talk to get me back on my homework grind. I am generally entertained by the witty and occasionally pornographic musings that have been etched into the stalls of bathrooms across campus, but it was after seeing a quote from the late Albert Camus that I felt truly appreciative towards this particular brand of graffiti.

Graffiti, and other forms of street art, can be seen all over the city of Madison. This past July, a new mural was added to the side of Plan B—a nightclub in downtown Madison—by street artist Michael Owen.

The mural depicts four hands spelling out the word “love,” creating a symbol for community. On campus, the Humanities building and its connecting bridges are filled with quotes, stencils and personal tags.

While frequently considered vandalism, I feel that it should be the right of students, and artists alike, to express themselves creatively, as long as their work remains inoffensive.

For decades, graffiti and street art have not been given the credit to which they are entitled. Dating back to the ‘60s, graffiti was initially used solely by political activists and gangs, with the emergence of “tagging” beginning in the early ‘70s. Tagging is a simplified version of graffiti that entails signing your name, or other representation of yourself, onto public property. The New York City subway was considered the ultimate canvas for true artists. Beginning in the ‘80s, the Metropolitan Transit Authority attempted to stop tagging altogether. Fortunately, the emergence of hip-hop into main-stream culture helped spread graffiti to many areas of the world.

Today, street art has grown massively in popularity and is now reaching both the public and elite art world. Currently dominating the street art scene is Banksy, an anonymous painter and political activist. Previous to Banksy’s international popularity, street art was produced by many talented artists with varying success. However, Banksy is in many ways responsible for the emergence of a market for street art—in galleries and auction houses that had previously shunned this “pedestrian” style.

Banksy has redefined what “urban” art means to people, and he is everywhere: his work is on the sides of buildings all over the world, his

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book, “Wall and Piece,” is in nearly every bookstore and his documentary, “Exit Through the Gift Shop,” was nominated for an Academy Award. He has come into our neighborhoods, our stores and our homes, and has made us appreciate art in a new, accessible way.

While his paintings sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars, he has become somewhat of a gateway into this genre of art. Many people, wanting to get in on the action, have begun learning more about this movement and are seeking out the work of other contemporary street artists to add to their collection.

This past fall, Banksy organized a stunt in which he sold some pieces of his work, which would have gone for tens of thousands of dollars at any given auction, for just sixty bucks a pop. The pieces were sold at a small booth in Central Park by an elderly man whose identity is unknown. Throughout a seven hour period, only three customers made purchases, none of them realizing the true value of the paintings. One man went so far as to tell the vendor that he just needed something to fill his walls. The following day, the artist posted a video of the slow sales day on his website with the caption, “Yesterday I set up a stall in the park selling 100% authentic original signed Banksy canvases. For $60 each.” The citizens of New York City were kicking themselves for missing out on this fire sale. In the future, you can be sure that people who have heard of this exploit will be more attentive to the art around them.

In order to gain a better understanding of current attitudes towards street art, I sought the insight of someone in the field and reached out to a gallery dedicated to the medium. Located in downtown Montreal, Station 16 Gallery is a new urban art gallery that showcases both local and international street artists. The gallery opened in June 2013 in conjunction with Montreal’s first MURAL festival, an event that brings in local and international street artists to paint murals around the city.

I recently had the opportunity to meet with Station 16 Gallery’s Marketing Director, Alexandra Jagodzinski. The UW-Madison alumna shares her experiences with Station 16 Gallery and discusses her opinions on street art: MODA: Who is your current favorite street artist?

Alexandra Jagodzinski: That is a difficult question— there are so many! I love the work of Maya Hayuk. She works in an abstract-geometric style that is just stunning.

Currently, I am obsessing over Ricardo Cavolo, and not just because we are opening a solo show for him. His style is intricate, yet simple, and incredibly fun. Plus, he is just adorable. Think cute hipster-meets-nerd glasses, but literally covered in tattoos from the chest down.

M: How do you think the rise of popularity in street art has affected the art industry?

AJ: I would like to think it renders art more accessible to the general public and not just the elite. Art is often thought of as something that only the rich can own, or something that

belongs in a snobby gallery or famous museum.

Street art breaks down those assumptions as it is meant to be enjoyed by everyone. Of course, street art has filtered into the fine art market and can sell for crazy amounts of money. I do not see this as negative, however. It is the progression of an artist’s career and is inevitable if they gain a following by the masses.

M: Many still consider graffiti and street art vandalism. What is your opinion on this?

AJ: Graffiti certainly has a connotation with vandalism, as it mostly consists of tags and is associated with “young hooligans.” Street art is very different as it has the intent of decorating a city, sparking a conversation with the public, and getting their art out in an accessible way. Additionally, there are general, understood ‘rules’ as to where street art can be done, such as residential or private property.

I cannot tell you how many people I have encountered at the gallery and through social media who absolutely love the work of street artists. Passersby feel connected with street art.

It becomes a part of the urban landscape and the city that people call home.

Throughout the decades, graffiti’s reputation has fluctuated with the changing cultural landscape. With the help of Banksy, a market for street art was created and other artists in this genre have finally gained the respect of the art world and society at large.

Looking forward, we can expect to see many new, influential players in the art world and an even more widespread appreciation for graffiti. The proof is painted on the streets of Madison, or the written doors of bathroom stalls.

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A FOREIGN PERSPECTIVE ON AMERICAN STYLE

By Karina De-Bourne Photographed by Jordan Kaster Schultz A UK international student shares her style philosophy with her American peers.

I

n fashion and in life, I have always made an effort to do what I want. As blunt and self-serving as it may seem, it’s a philosophy that I have followed for as long as I can remember. As a result, when people tell me there’s something that I can’t do, they only spur me on.

In all honesty, it doesn’t matter to me whether someone likes what I’m wearing or not. When I truly love something, no one can stop me from putting it on and that’s exactly what fashion should be—original, fearless and unapologetic.

Before venturing to the U.S. for my year abroad, I expected to come across students with the same style perspective. As a student from the University of Warwick in England, I was accustomed to a student population that was about half the size of UW-Madison’s, and I thought that the larger number of students would allow for a whole host of personal styles. I anticipated “sporty” people, “fashionable” people, and people who don’t really care what they wear. Yet, instead, I’m found it hard to differentiate one well-dressed person from another.

After discussing this with a few American peers and asking them what they think of fashion here, I heard a lot of the same answers. The notion that “everyone wants to conform and fit in” appears to be a widely held belief among students at UW. Many may argue that there’s nothing wrong with this desire for acceptance, but I personally feel that competing with other styles dampens your own creativity. After all, why would you

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want to look the same as the person sitting next to you? They might look great, but you shouldn’t doubt that you look great too.

Back home, it’s a big deal to dress how you want and people are encouraged to express themselves through their clothes. In truth, the judgments and personal styles of others shouldn’t matter. People should feel free to dress how they want and should use each other as inspiration rather than excuses to suppress their own fashion desires.

Essentially, the lesson is simple—embrace your fashion personality and break out of the norm. It may not be “trendy” to U.S. college students, but it certainly should be. My sister and I have this saying that we use quite often—“That is so hideous, it’s beautiful; I love it.” This idea might baffle you, it definitely baffles my mother, but it’s this approach to fashion that allows us to project who we are. Style isn’t meant to be generic and it’s not always meant to be current and appealing.

Rather, a lot of clothes are in fact horrendous and we unveil their beauty through our interpretations of them.

So the next time you struggle for something to wear, channel the mindset of those across the pond and dress the way you please. It may not receive social praise, but fashion isn’t about acceptance—it’s about fearlessly being who you are. Embrace fashion the way we Brits do and get the London look.

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