Stone Island brand audit

STONE_ISLAND BRAND_AUDIT_

By Jessica Martin_

1.0 Executive Summary 2.0 Introduction 2.1 Brand History 2.2 Designer Background 2.3 Further Brand History 2.4 Brand Extensions 3.0

CONTENTS_

Brand Equity and Visual Identity 3.1 Aakers Model 3.1.1 The 4 Perspectives 3.2 Brand Values 3.3 Advertisement and Promotions

4.0 Marketing Mix 4.1 The 4 P’s 4.1.1 BCG Matrix 4.3.1 AIDA Mode

5.0 Consumer Segmentation 5.1 Consumer Demographics 5.2 The Change In Consumers 5.3 Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs

6.0 Competitor Analysis 6.1 Current Competition 6.1.2 USP 6.2 Brand Positioning Map 7.0 Micro & Macro-Economical Factor Analysis 7.1 Macro 7.2 Micro

5.4 Visual Customer Profile 8.0 SWOT Analysis and Recommendations 9.0 Bibliography

Executive Summary_

As part of the Fashion Marketing and Management project, my research focus is set on the brand Stone Island as I explore the business methods and choices which make the brand what it is. This report will consist of several areas including brand equity and visual identity, the marketing mix, consumer segmentation and competitor analysis to name a few. My research will demonstrate my understanding of the subject and portray my deeper knowledge of the fashion industry.

2.0 INTRODUCTION_ When you think of an iconic men’s fashion brand, Stone Island definitely comes to mind.

Founded in 1982 in Italy, as a secondary brand to C.P Company, Stone Island is still a key part of menswear today. “I know what

Stone Island means to a lot of people in England and Europe,” Jebbia (Supreme founder) told I-D (Espinoza, 2015), although there has been a recent surge of popularity worldwide thanks to rappers such as Drake for showing an interest into the brand. The secondary brand came about by Massimo Osti, after research into work and military wear. Osti, the late Italian garment engineer, unfortunately died in 2005 after his diagnosis of cancer.

He was the original founder of Stone Island before selling it to GFT. Rivetti is the current CEO of Stone Island and has been since the mid 1990’s. (Rivetti, n.d) Osti, born in Bologna, began his career as a graphic designer but eventually moved into the fashion industry in the 1970’s after designing a T-shirt collection. He was known for his experimental methods and was the first person to use silkscreen in his creating.

After the T-shirt collection was successful,

Osti accepted an offer to design and become an equity partner in C.P Company. Once Stone Island had begun, the first collection was inspired by truck driver tarps. Osti used stone washing to create a ‘used’ look, which was clearly successful as the collection sold out everywhere within 10 days of being released.

(‘Massimo Osti’, 2018) In 1994, 0sti left Stone Island after realising he didn’t want to be in the fashion industry any longer and was replaced as a designer by Paul Harvey. It was in the 90’s that Stone Island was first associated with football hooligans. 2008 was a huge change for the company as Paul Harvey left his role and Rivetti decided to use a team of diverse designers instead of just one person. Since then, Stone island has famously collaborated with Supreme which helped to move away from the football hooligan reputation. Another famous extension from Stone Island is the Shadow Project (Boykins, 2017). The project was joint with the design team from Acronym as both brands are known for their outerwear and technical design specialties. (Zoofashions. com, n.d)

Massimo Osti_

Carlo Rivetti_

3.0 BRAND EQUITY AND VISUAL IDENTITY_ The visual identity and equity of a brand are factors that affect the success of a company and so many aspects have to be considered carefully by management and marketing teams.

The Aaker’s framework demonstrates how brand equity is made up of 3 main elements; awareness, loyalty, and associations. Aaker decided brands can be perceived in 4 different ways; as a product, an organisation, a person and a symbol, but these are all made up of multiple components to create

the Aaker model.

From a product perspective, Stone Island is known for very high-quality coats and outerwear.

Massimo Osti’s extensive experimentation and research into fabrics created the foundation for the highly anticipated outerwear. Although, by word of mouth, I have discovered their other clothing such as tops are very standard quality. With this brand, it’s well known that consumers are massively paying for the name and the arm badge rather than

the quality itself.

Stone Island has a bad reputation with football hooligans, but this doesn’t put people off buying from the company as the quality of the products is generally very good.

To look at the brand as an organisation, you need to look at their local and global activity as well as their organisational attributes. In application to Stone Island, they sell globally and still have their headquarters in Italy where the brand originated from.

Seeing a brand as a person means to consider it’s ‘brand personality’ and how PR staff maintain brand relationships with both consumers and other brands.

D. Aaker’s daughter Jennifer Aaker went on to create a model for brand personality alone. She says a brand must be measured on a scale of 1-5 of 5 traits; sincerity, excitement, ruggedness, competence, and sophistication (Sum-

mary of the Brand Dimensions by Aaker, 2016). Stone Island as a brand is well

respected by consumers, which shows a good personality.

The last element; to view the brand as a symbol is all about the imagery and the heritage of the company.

Although Rivetti wasn’t the original founder, he was part of the foundation of C.P Company so the heritage is strong which consumers appreciate.

The brand has kept in touch with its core values set by Massimo Osti. This creates reliability and trust with the consumer. Since

the first collection, Stone Island has stuck to its roots of work/military-themed wear.

Osti’s original inspiration came from his love of sailing, shown in the compass logo, and his fascination with waterproof materials and experimentation.

(Stone Island: how the brand got its bearings, 2015) This inspiration is still strongly visible through every garment that the brand releases, maintaining its original essence and values.

Another crucial fac-

tor of a brands success is the advertisement. It can be costly, but the promotion of a brand is key to communicate the brand identity correctly. Modern day methods of advertising are much more interactive and encourage consumer engagement through social media such as

Snapchat, Instagram, and Twitter. A popular method by Stone Island is to create videos of their latest collections presenting models still and moving to show how the garments fit.

The videos are uploaded to YouTube so they’re accessible for consumers to watch. Recently, Stone Island have been using a different method of

promotion. Rappers such a Drake, Travis Scott, and Dave are known for wearing the brand and even rapping about it.

Dave’s recent verse in his song “Samantha” with J Hus mentions being head-totoe in Stone Island and wore the brand in the music video too. Stone Island is also often seen worn by grime crew BBK which appeals to the youth English culture (Minamore, 2017). This type of promotion connects to a different audience that listens to rap/hip-hop music rather than the stereotypical Oasis-listening audience. This demonstrates the powerful link between fashion and music.

_Drake wearing Stone Island to Wimbledon_

0.4

MARKETING MIX_ The BCG matrix is a chart to help companies analyse their product collections and how successful each category/item is at the time. In the case of Stone Island, I believe their shadow project collection and Supreme collaboration would be in the ‘star’ category as they have been massively promoted. The ‘star’ section would also consist of their newly released collection, so right now it would be SS/18 because it’s most current look. Their ‘cash cows’ would be the jumpers and outerwear that feature the logo on the arm patch.

This is because they are considered the most iconic items and they don’t require much promotion as consumers continue to buy them anyway. The ‘question marks’ are t-shirts and

tops with a printed front logo and jeans as they are still purchased but not very often; they don’t generate as much money. Finally, the ‘dogs’; the items that are outgrown and are the products that companies eventually stop producing.

For example, accessories such as towels and backpacks are rarely bought and most likely have a low relative market share as well as a very slow (if any) growth rate.

Product life cycles in fashion have 5 stages; intro, rise, peak, decline, and obsolescence. The length of time a product is in each of the stages depends on whether it’s part of a style, fashion or a fad. Fad’s life cycles are very sudden

and quick; they are temporary high sales driven by consumer enthusiasm. Styles are modes of expression that rise and decline continually over a longer period of time. Finally, fashion is the current popular trend accepted by society. Stone Island clothing would fit into the fashion description as it’s been a popular brand for over 30 years.

One of the most crucial elements of marketing is determining a correct price that reflects the reputation and desirability of a garment, whilst also considering the labour and manufacturing costs, and still making a profit. When looking at Stone Island’s SS18 collection, it’s clear that they often use a psychological approach. For example, some of the coats are priced at £495 because it sounds a lot cheaper than £500 even though there’s only a £5 difference. The product line method is also used, as shown when a new collection is released; all similar products have a similar price. Stone Island is a brand known for its good value which shows the price is chosen well.

BCG MATRIX_ High T-Shirts with Printed Front Logo

The Shadow Project

Growth Rate_

Supreme X Stone Island Collaboration

Stars Cash Cows

Jeans

Question Marks Dogs

Jumpers

Footwear Towels Coats/Jackets

Bags

Low High

Relative Market Share

Low

Promotion is the 3rd point of the marketing mix. Marketing teams must carefully consider their chosen method which could be advertising (TV, social media etc), e-commerce, personal selling, direct mail or sales promotion. Although PR is also a promotional method which is something Stone Island do very well.

As previously mentioned, the brand and logo feature in various songs and music videos, not to mention being worn every day by people such as Drake- one of the most influential artists of today. Strangely enough, back when Stone Island was seen more on football hooligans than rappers, the negative imagery still didn’t deter consumers.

Another model used within marketing to distinguish the stages of capturing potential consumers’ attention is the AIDA model.

The 4 steps are attention/ awareness, interest, desire, and action. The 1st step is purely cognitive and needs to seize the attention immediately to be successful. Step 2 is all about the sophistication and engagement of the advert – why would the consumer want to learn more?

The 3rd step should appeal to both the needs and wants of the target audience and play on the feeling of being ‘left out’ if they don’t purchase the item. Step 4 is completing the sale and the action of the consumer going to buy the product whether that’s online or in store. Stone Island frequently makes YouTube videos about their garments such as the Ice Jacket and how they created items in their Prototype Research Series (https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=mgwDhgwQkXU). They use barely any written description to keep it simple and visual, which is really effective as it keeps the audience intrigued and engaged. The videos are actually really interesting as other brands don’t usually make videos on how their garments are made or tested.

It added some legitimacy to the brand identity and forms a stronger consumer/ brand relationship.

The chosen places (final

marketing mix point) in which Stone Island products can be purchased from are; independent fashion stores, department stores and online.

Garments can be found directly at Stone Island shops or at its stockists such as Flannels, Cruise or Selfridges to name a few. The sales platform chosen also mirrors the brand identity, as you wouldn’t expect to find Stone Island in a supermarket at this would probably lower its value and reputation.

5.0 CONSUMER SEGMENTATION_ “These days, you’re just as likely to see that famous compass patch pinned to the arm of a grime MC or well-off, middle-aged men who drive Range Rovers through the posher parts of London as you are on somebody who punches other people over petty sporting rivalries.” (Eror, 2017) This quote is a perfect representation of the current consumers of Stone Island.

The UK grime scene has recently adopted the brand into its style and image, yet it still remains strong with

‘football hooligans’. ‘Stone Island going mainstream’ has been a trending topic among journalists and social media users.

Three decades ago, Stone Island had only the connotations of a rough football-match goer, which is no longer the case.

Today, Stone Island consumer demographics range from young, cool, Supreme-wearers attending Drake shows to a 45-year-old man from a middle-class family.

One thing these people have in common is a mid to

high-income household, even 16-year olds wearing Stone Island have to afford it somehow -obviously, they’re bought by parents.

I conducted a survey to see what age people think that Stone Island is made for and the type of reputation it has.

The answers said that Stone Island is made for 15-25-year olds, however, the brand is for males aged 15-50 (Davies, 2012). Consumers are also mainly from England or are in the modern ‘Hypebeast’ fashion scene and live in the USA. Although a consumer profile would suggest

a male-only demographic, Carlo Rivetti said himself “I

see beautiful women wearing Stone Island and I think that the most beautiful women are the ones wearing men’s products.”

(Cardiner, 2015) You can identify reasons behind some sales by looking at Maslow’s Hierarchy of Consumer Needs.

Maslow says the hierarchy starts at physiological needs, then safety and security such as fire safe pyjamas for children, then social needs for the sense of belonging, after that is self-esteem fulfilment

to create a sense of accomplishment and respect, and finally self-actualisation for personal growth or development. When consumers buy from Stone Island, it’s most likely to fulfil their self-esteem as within hooliganism, people know not to mess with people wearing Stone Island.

It could also be for social needs, especially for younger people as they want to fit in with their friends and avoid feeling left out.

In my opinion, from researching online and speaking to friends and family,

Stone Island will become highly associated with Hypebeast and future consumers will be those who currently wear brands such as Stussy, Palace and

A Bathing Ape (Winter, 2017). This is mainly suggested by Stone Island’s previous Supreme collaborations and how in the past few years, consumers are more interested in hip hop/grime than indie bands like Oasis.

The brand will also be much more popular with American youth rather than mainly UK consumers.

Visual Consumer Profile

Future Consumer Profile

“

There’s also the ritual of going up to the shop and handing over £600 for a jacket—it’s almost like buying condoms when you’re a teenager. It’s like: Are you man enough for this?”

-Vice journalist Clive Martin

6.0 Competitor Analysis_ In the recent survey I conducted online, I asked what brands people associated with competitors for Stone Island and the top responses were Fred Perry, Carhartt, and The North Face.

Fred Perry links more towards Stone Island’s hooligan image whilst The North Face is in competition due to its range of outerwear. Carhartt is a brand that’s a mix of streetwear and Hypebeast style, which provides competition for Stone Island’s newer genre and appearance.

All these brands have a formal streetwear style with a sportswear type of vibe.

Stone Island is known for its own sport/streetwear but with a military vibe which sets it apart from its competition.

In the future, Stone Islands main rivals will most likely be Supreme, Patagonia, and Palace as the brand becomes more popular with the youth

of New York who skateboard and listen to artists such as A$ASP Rocky and Lil Xan. Stone Island’s USP (Unique Selling Point) is how it creates a military vibe without the stereotypical use of buttons on the bodice or shoulder pads. The website also has a very clean and well-kept image, the use of a mono font and the underscore punctuation makes the writing appear more like coding which relates back to how Massimo Osti researched deep into workwear and the military.

I created a brand positioning map to demonstrate where Stone Island fits in the fashion industry, in reference to its quality and price compared to other brands. I included brands such a Louis Vuitton, Yeezy, Fila and Stussy as I wanted to choose clothing companies that would have a similar consumer demographic.

High Price

High Quality

7.0 Micro and Macro Economical Factors_ Micro and Macro environmental factors are beyond the control of the business but still affect the company and the marketing of the brand. Micro factors include influencers such as retailers, suppliers, customers etc, whereas Macro factors can include demographics, politics, technology, and laws, to name a few.

Stone Island is influenced by technology in a positive way as they use e-commerce. Independent shops selling Stone Island are sparse so they heavily rely on internet sales for a majority of their profit. The economy certainly influences how a business is doing, as the economy is improving, consumers are spending more which benefits Stone Island. This also applies when companies are choosing where to open new stores, for example, Harvey Nichols (Stone Island stockist) only has stores in areas where retail businesses are doing well economically. Politics make up a huge segment of culture and what we talk and think about in daily life. In modern fashion, it’s very cool to make controversial political statements through fashion. Designers must consider that if they link their brand to a particular political party, then they will

lose consumers as well as gaining other, new consumers. The environment of a store or factory for the brand will also be considered; is it accessible for people to get to and work/ shop at? Does the brand suit the local culture and society? These are just a few things that companies (not just in fashion) have to look at. Social influences such as current trends may affect the brand and its marketing, for example, Stone Island is doing well at the minute because the clothes are on trend and desired. Stone Island has to keep releasing new collections and creating new collaborations with other fashionable brands to stay on trend.

In reference to the law, brands just need to make sure they’re sticking to marketing laws and labelling correctly. The stores themselves have to keep to health and safety regulations too.

If any rules change, it’s up to the company to make sure themselves and the stores follow everything accurately.

Micro-environmental factors can also affect businesses, sometimes without their control. For example, if the area of a store doesn’t have much competition or loses competition for the brand, this may make the store and its products less desirable and therefore deter consumers. Also, problems in distribution centres or shortage of materials will affect the process of making the garments and therefore cause a possible loss of profits. In terms of employees, companies may need to pay more for specialists. At Stone Island, they research deeply into new and innovative materials which will require higher paid employees and investment into the research methods, which will obviously cost the company money. Most importantly, the brand must keep a positive and respected image which isn’t easy when bloggers and journalists can write anything about the brand online which could influence all their readers/followers. Luckily, Stone Island rarely receives any negative reviews which help to keep the success of the company.

8.0 SWOT Analysis and Recommendations Overall, despite its negative hooligan associations, Stone Island is definitely a successful brand with a very interesting and exciting future ahead. A strength of the company is that their marketing team knows exactly what they’re doing. The collaborations have all been very well timed as fashion slowly merges into a new sports luxe style. Unfortunately, some consumers do soil the reputation of the brand. Hooliganism is still occurring and many people involved are still wearing the brand which is sadly a micro-environmental factor. Looking at the augmented products of the brand, they don’t cover the cost of return shipping which is disappointing from a consumer point of view.

However, they do offer a 28-day return period which is more than fair. As Stone Island becomes more hyped up in the USA, brands such as A Bathing Ape and Supreme will quickly become strong threats.

To remain profitable, I suggest Stone Island release a very mature and masculine aftershave to continue to appeal to its older customers. In regards to products, I think a small cross body (most commonly known as a Man-bag) would really fit into the youth and UK grime culture. The bag links well to streetwear, although it does step away from the work-wear style. However, this new image for Stone Island is very on trend and they should continue to collaborate with Hypebeast brands - and maybe finally make Drake an official brand ambassador or at least release a collection together. The collection would undoubtedly be successful after seeing the results from the Supreme collaboration.

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