Varsity Zine

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VARSITY


EDITORS LETTER “Yes!” was my reaction when I decided upon the idea of focusing this

issue Varsity on telling the story of fashion through the story of cheerleading. Famously, people debate whether cheerleading is rightfully a sport or not but my personal experience tells me that it definitely is; and that the athletes who take part deserve as much recognition as those who do football, gymnastics, swimming etc. With factors such as politics, social influences and the arts, Cheerleading has grown and evolved since it first begun in the late 1800s. If it wasn’t for both World War I and World War II, women may have never taken over as cheerleading athletes, meaning that the uniforms and routines would have possibly been very different today. I wanted to combine my passion for both cheerleading and fashion by portraying how they have grown together; starting at 1910 and exploring every decade up until today. It was important for me to go into detail for each decade to really show in- depth how cheer’ has deservedly became a recognised sport and how its uniforms reflected the trends within fashion from each period. So get your pom-poms out as this zine inspires you with varsity spirit as we delve into the exhilarating world of Cheerleading and fashion. Editor-in-chief Jessica Martin



WHEN I WAS A CHEERLEADER... I’ve spent the majority of my life, since I was 6, training in modern, contempory and street dance. When I was 13 I had a go at cheerleading which I really enjoyed however I was very unsure about the gymnastic and tumbling side of the sport, so I gave it up. I waited a year and re-joined as well as starting training in tumbling sessions. I was training for roughly 6 hours a week normally, and between 1012 hours closer to compeitions. As a dancer, I only ever took part in shows so the new competitivity was nerve-wracking but very exciting.

My first comp was Future Cheer in Birmingham, and performing on such larger scale was such an adrenaline rush. Since then I’ve competed at National Championships but unfortuntely I had to leave when I started college as I needed more time for my academic studies. I loved the Derby Diamonds cheer uniform as it wasn’t too “in your face” and the colour scheme consisted of my two favourite colours; blue and pink. The long sleeves kept the uniform looking modest yet sleek. I miss cheerleading and dancing a lot and it’s something I’ll always love.


Right: My squad at Future Cheer Competition.


HISTORY OF 1899 - University of Minnesota formed the first known cheer squad.

1930’s - Male cheerleaders still wore collared shirts with slacks. Megaphones were also introduced.

1910- The university of Illinois hosts the first homecoming.

1898- Johny Campbell was the first recorded Cheerleader or “yell leader” at University of Minnesota.

1956 - 1st pom pom is invented

1960’s - Baltimore: The Colts are the first professional cheerleading squad. 1948 - The first summer cheer camp took place.

1923 - Women were now permitted to take part in cheerleading. Tumbling and acrobatics were slowly being introduced.

1903 - First known Cheerleading fraternity called Gamma Sigma was formed.

1950’s - Lawrence Herkimer develops the Herkie jump and founds the Cheerleading Supply Comapany.

1940’s - As men went to fight in World War II, a large number of women were now cheerleading.

1961 - Start of National Cheerleading Association.


CHEERLEADING

2000 - First world cheerleading competition took place.

1974 - Jeff Webb founded Universal Cheerleaders Association to teach higher levels of cheerleading.

1972 - Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders founded.

1990’s - Debut of American Cheerleader magazine. ESPN also confirms cheerleading is a sport.

2010 - 90% of Cheerleaders are female.

1973 - Cheerleaders began cheerleading for womens sports.

2000 - First cheerleading film “Bring it on” was released. 1968 - First vinyl pom pom. 1980’s - All star cheerleading begun and the American Association of Cheerleading Coaches and Administrators was founded.

2006 - TV show “Cheerleader nation” airs for the first time.


OLIVIER ROUSTEING

Even in todays’ society, it’s still hard for anyone from a minority ethnic background to gain success and popularity, and when you add homosexuality into the mix, it creates an even greater challenge. Somehow, Olivier Rousteing defied the odds and became a successful designer and creative director for the luxury fashion brand Balmain as the only gay and black French designer. People from the older generations are no way as accepting of change and individuality as the current young people of 2017 but they are still the people that hold and of course earn the most money too. The problem with this is that Olivier is well known mostly through his relationship with reality stars and popular artists such as Rihanna, Beyonce and Kim Kardashian, and older people may not be so familiar with these individuals. Another problem is that due to his youthful style, he has a large social media following on sites such as Instagram, and I know for fact that my parents don’t use social media in the same way I do and I believe it’s a similar case for most people their age and older. Because of this, the

people with the most money probably aren’t engaging with Olivier as much as someone younger (with presumably less money) would be. Therefore, the people with the most interest into his clothing most likely cannot afford it although his styles mixed with his prices demonstrate how his target market would a man or woman if their late 20’s or 30’s.

One thing Olivier has done to target a lower income consumer group was by collaborating with H&M. The collection was so successful it was 97% sold out and the other 3% was believed to be lost by theft. This reason alone is good enough for me to look up to him as a designer and influencer as he is someone who understands that

some people can’t afford his clothes and he then collaborated with a highstreet brand to give people with a lower income a chance to wear luxury style clothing. Olivier has spoken out about how his love for women and their shape has influenced his work. He mentioned how his use of the hourglass figure was influenced by his auntie and her curves, however, many people believe his work is influenced by Kim Kardashian’s shape. In an interview with InStyle he said “I believe in strong women. I love glamour and fabulousness, which is obvious.” and I do think this is clearly portrayed in all of his designs. The Guardian has spoken about how he takes hip hop elements and turns it into a luxurious Parisian style which is an excellent way to describe his unique look for Balmain. As someone who personally loves hip hop and has a deep interest in fashion, it’s easy to see why Olivier Rousteing is one of my favourite people in the fashion industry.


“#BalmainArmy” is a term to describe Olivier and the group of powerful women he surrounds himself with. The army is very cleverly selected as there are a mixture

OLIVIER ROUSTEING

Many other luxury fashion houses have frowned upon being associated with the Kardashian family whereas Olivier has embraced this and ignored what other designers think. This presents how he is a bold and brave person, despite being so young in the industry compared to other luxury designers. Additionally, this adds to why he is an admirable person in my opinion. Both himself and the Kardashian family understand each other have a large fan base which probably helps each other out. He is regularly seen tagged in Kylie Jenner’s photos which only adds to his publicity and advertises the Balmain brand along with the well-known “#BalmainArmy”.

of models, singers and reality stars that all make up todays it-girl look. The image of the brand portrays a strong, independent woman which is exactly the type of person that would make it into the so-called army. From super-models such as Adriana Lima to less commonly known models like Binx Walton, these women are strong minded and make up part of Olivier’s close group. I think creating a squad of influential and strong people is such a modern and innovative idea. It creates something that other people want to be part of. It may ignite jealously or envy but from a marketing perspective, it’s a great way to draw attention and therefore lure in the consumer.

The Balmain SS18 collection demonstrates the uniqueness and creativeness that Olivier still has when designing the garments. From laser cut patterns to fringing and studs, there is definitely a lot going on at a first glance but some-how they all look good when put together. The collection portrays the brands traditional expensive and luxury image but constantly adds modern aspects to keep it interesting and new.


MODERN VARSIT Y FASHION

The ‘vintage varsity’ image is still presented through fashion today, in both high street stores and high end boutiques. I found this navy jumper in Zara in Derby which is perfect for the cold Autumn/Winter weather. Yellow is a very popular colour right now and I love the brightness contrasting with the burgundy and navy.

This tennis style skirt was very popular in the colours white and pink, however I think the red and navy colours give a very ‘cheerleader’ and ‘varsity’ vibe. It looks more like a vintage varsity skirt rather than a modern all star style. The skirt is from American Apparel.




EARLY 1900’S The early 1900’s presented an iconic time in history. The death of Queen Victoria, both World Wars and designers such as Chanel and Paul Poiret taking the reins of fashion. The collage on the left presents just some of the key events and moments in all areas such as art, literature and politics. Let’s start at 1910’s, due to travelling ballerinas in The Ballets Russes, designers and artists were obsessing over exoticism and orientalism. Paul Poiret was inspired and was known for his oriental style patterns and designs. Around this time, women were also beginning to dabble in sports however they still didn’t take part in cheerleading. Oh, what a wonderful time the 1920’s was for fashion! The flapper dresses with the amazing fringing and detail makes so many people wish they had experienced this era. With The Great Gatsby being published, the Jazz era was in full swing.

Elsa Schiaparelli took control of the 1930’s fashion era. Her famous bra with the hand silhouette was so unique and new, it’s style has influenced so many modern designers. It reminds me of the popular triangle applique bras that girls wear now. Topshop sells a large range of this style. The 1940’s were a very sad time for everyone across the world. The majority of people just couldn’t afford to keep up with fashion designers during World War II. Often, women would have to make their own clothing or recycle from clothes they already had. One trend amongst women was the use of printed scarves. In particular, some scarves would have first aid instructions printed as a pattern and worn as a fashion accessory. In today’s society, ‘vintage’ is very fashionable so a lot of people are up-cycling their own clothes just like the people of the 1940’s.


MID 1900’s Looking at the 1950’s as the start of the mid 1900’s shows the start of the revolution against racism and segregation. Rosa Parks defended herself on behalf of her race and in an attempt to maintain her dignity and morals. Also in the 50’s, Marylin Monroe was one of the biggest icons in the world. Everyone wanted to be her. Her whole life was in the spotlight including her relationship with author Arthur Miller. The oral contraceptive pill was also being created which meant that women had control over their sex lives. They could be provocative and sexy without the worries of pregnancy. The 1960’s is the time of the Mini Skirt. Lucky for you readers, there’s a two-page spread on Mary Quant in this issue of Varsity. However, there are always negative events happening, such as the assassina-

tion of President Kennedy. The biggest icon of the 60’s was of course Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Known as one of the most attractive women in history, there’s no surprise why other females aimed to look like her. Music really started to explode in the 1970’s. The Walkman was invented as well as Michael Jackson releasing his first solo album since leaving The Jackson 5. By this time in the 1900’s, females could dress how they wanted and for themselves, not for society. The pantsuit by Yves Saint Laurent was a big hit. The unique sense of boldness and masculinity made women feel strong and superior. Fashion and society have both came a long way since the early 1900’s.



LATE 1900’S & EARLY 2000’S With technology quickly evolving, there are more and more influences and inspirations affecting the fashion industry and the trends within. With so much going on in the 80’s, it was definitely a memorable decade. The north of the UK was in uproar about Margaret Thatcher, however UK citizens were also over joyed with the royal wedding and the newly named Princess Diana. This Issue also contains a review of the recent exhibition in Kensington Palace about Diana’s life and her fashion story. The next decade is my favourite to write about and every time I research it, it fills me with inspiration. The 1990’s. The decade I was born in and fills me with

nostalgia. This was also the decade which Clueless was released. The film influenced so many styles and trends, as well as being the theme of Iggy Azalea’s ‘Fancy’ video in 2014. Coincidentally, the video is set in a high school and shows cheerleaders practising their stunts. In the film, Alicia Silverstone was seen wearing a yellow and black tartan skirt and blazer with white knee highs. Also, in the 1990’s, Aaliyah and R Kelly were in the headlines for their frowned-upon relationship. Both were very successful HipHop artists before Aaliyah was unfortunately killed in a plane crash. The 2000 decades is still very fresh in our brains, only 7 years ago. Memorable events such

as 9/11 took the world by shock. That’s when the fear of terrorism really begun, and is still very much alive today. In the current decade 2010’s, technology is a huge part of everyday life. Today’s biggest influences are most definitely the Kardashian/Jenner family. With their apps, clothing lines and numerous TV shows, it’s hard to stay away from the family. This was also the decade of another royal wedding for William and Kate; Duke and Duchess of York. With technology and arts moving so quickly, it makes trend forecasting and predicting very exciting for the years to come.





CHEERLEADING IN FILM AND TV By the late 1900’s, cheerleading was such a popular sport so it’s no surprise that cheerleaders were starting to be incorporated into tv, films and music videos. The “Bring It On” franchise is probably the most famous, especially with people such as Hayden Panettiere and Kirsten Dunst having leading roles. I personally remember watching “Bring It On: All or Nothing” when I was about 9 years old and being desperate to be an American high school cheerleader. I was in love with everything; the routines, the outfits and the exclusivity of being part of a squad. But it wasn’t just teen/young comedy films that used cheerleaders, the sci-fi series “Heroes” was about people all around the world who had a special skill. For example, ‘Matt Parkman’ could use telepathy and ‘Hiro Nakamura’ could time travel. However, the character most relative to the theme ‘cheerleading’ is ‘Claire Bennet’ who was a cheerleader with the ability to repair her injuries instantly. One of the tag lines for “Heroes” was “save the cheerleader, save the world”. Claire wore a red and white long sleeve top with a red skirt. The uniform was modest and true to real life varsity cheerleading. One of the most popular tv shows of the past decade ‘Glee’ used cheerleader characters and was set in an American high school. Glee presented the girls very stereotypically as quite dumb and mean, yet pretty characters until later in the series when two girls comes out as gay and another is pregnant.


For an even older audience, ‘Fired up’ is about two high school boys that go to a cheer summer camp to meet girls. This film is more explicit with much more bad language than the typical ‘Bring It On’ films, making it aimed at older teenagers and young adults. Although the film is primarily telling the story of two boys and their encounters with the females at the camp, it also shows a lot of actual cheerleading and demonstrates the real rivalry feeling that occurs at cheer competitions. Music videos also incorporate cheerleading, with artists such as Iggy Azalea, Sean Kingston and Taylor Swift creating videos set at high schools, there’s bound to be scenes of cheerleaders too. Despite this, there are a lack of vid-

eos containing all star cheerleaders or actual cheerleading routines. Most videos showcase cheerleaders as pretty young girls wearing ‘cute’ outfits but there is much harder work gone into cheerleading than what is shown. However, cheerleading isn’t only shown in fictional films and tv, there are also numerous documentaries and reality shows about the sport and its athletes. Currently on Netflix is a documentary series called ‘Cheer Squad’ that follows a squad called ‘Sharks’ in their practise sessions and competitions. Similarly, ‘Cheerleaders’ on YouTube is a web series that follows ‘SMOED’ whom are a team from California All Stars and are home to world famous cheerleaders such as Gabi Butler, Robert Scianna and Madi Corsello. Both teams

have competed at World Championship level and are highly thought of. With so many art and visual platforms, it’s strange to think that some people still don’t believe cheerleading is a ‘real’ sport. Maybe film and tv need to start presenting it for the dangerous sport it really is rather than associating it with just pretty girls.


MARY QUANT

When I think of radical designers, a few names come to mind for different reasons – Coco Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and Paul Poiret to name a few – but the real questions are who changed fashion and who created timeless garments that would last beyond their time; whose designs were not only innovative but succinctly reflected society in that time? The answer to all these questions is one name: Mary Quant. I spent much of my childhood playing around in the kind of little skirts with coloured woollen tights that Quant made part of her signature look. And I see my 7-year-old

sister wearing them just as I used to. It makes me realise how influential Mary Quant was back in the 1960s. Quant redefined fashion for women. Vogue has even spoken out about Quant saying she is “the most renowned fashion innovator in the world.” Although Quant didn’t literally invent the mini skirt – that was just the shortening of hems through time – she definitely popularised it and even named it after her favourite car: the mini. Born in 1934, Quant studied illustration at Goldsmiths College in London where she met her business partner and future husband Alexander Plunket Greene. Together,

they opened a retail boutique called Bazaar that allowed women to buy affordable, off-the-peg clothing; a novelty at the time because most clothes were created by a local dressmaker. However, Quant didn’t like the limited-choice of clothing available for her to sell in Bazaar so she began to make her own. Cue the ‘mod’ or ‘London’ look which Quant created from knee-high patent plastic boots to be worn with a skinny rib sweater. Quant has spoken about how it was the customers that would ask for shorter skirts which led to


own sex life which made them feel more independent. “The evolution of the mini skirt is a tale of post-wartime austerity, sexual liberation and youth rebellion,” states TheFashionSpot.com. This was the time of the sexual revolution and it was definitely presented through fashion. In relation to my exploration of 10 years of fashion history through the theme of cheerleading, it should be said that cheerleaders today are known for their short skirts which probably wouldn’t be the case were it not for Quant. As fashion skirts got shorter, so did cheerleaders’. It’s crazy to think that without these trends

MARY QUANT

the mini skirt. Quant would dress it with coloured tights which started the most iconic look of the 1960s. By 1963, Mary Quant had multiple stores and was exporting clothing to the US. Women liked the fact that she was of their age and not an older generation. The cost of the clothes also helped to entice customers to the boutiques. Even today, 50 years on, the mini skirt is still a vital piece of most western females’ wardrobe. Quant wanted “relaxed clothes suited to the actions of normal life;” inspired as she was by the uniforms she had grown up wearing for school and dance. Quant’s designs reflect society of the 1960s. As her skirts got shorter, other women around the world loved them. It presented how women were now thought of as more ‘free’ and with the creation of the contraceptive pill women could now take charge of their

of the 1960s, Cheerleaders today may still be wearing skirts below the knee. However, it Is interesting that the ‘varsity’ style linked to cheerleading stereotypically includes a rib sweater or cardigan which is what Quant styled with the mini skirt.


CHEERLEADING

Gabi Butler

Angel Rice

Carly Manning

Jordan Knox


HALL OF FAME

Robert Scianna

Ashley Wilson

Jamie Andries

Kiara Nowlin


DIANA EXHIBITION REVIEW As I took my first step

into such an intriguing exhibition, my eyes were fixated on the amazing wall patterns resembling lace, with lights behind to make it really stand out. The elegant connotations of lace really make It obvious I was inside a palace made for royal family members. This was the beginning of Diana: Her Fashion Story at Kensington Palace. I was specifically excited to see this exhibition as the usual ones I attend are inside a gallery or themed on one designer only, but this was focusing on iconic outfits that Diana wore before she was unfortunately killed in 1997. The collection was not aimed to cre-

ate sadness or mourning but to celebrate the life she had and how she was loved by millions in so many different ways. I felt a feeling very similar to when I visited the Anne Frank House in Amsterdam. To know that such an amazing person once wore those clothes or walked in those very hallways. It’s a strange feeling that words simply cannot describe but it creates a sense of awareness to what that person has been through and how they died. The exhibition was beautiful and it really did Diana justice. The white walls created an impression of purity and innocence. Some walls were filled


with quotes whereas some were left bare. An example of the quotes are “She was a princess. She had style. She did everything with grace and charm.”David Thomas and “There are loads of movie stars and celebrities but there will be only one Diana.”- Elizabeth Emanuel. The quotes back up the collection shown as every piece was really graceful and dignified – perfectly fitting for a Princess. One garment that really left an impression on me was the Jacques Azagury blue silk chiffon dress which was worn to the performance of Swan Lake by the English National Ballet at Royal Albert Hall in 1977. The icy

shade of blue looks really delicate and soft which is exactly the image Diana would present, but also, I think my favourite part about the dress is that it seems almost very normal. By this I mean it’s subtle yet eye-catching and is perhaps something that someone outside the royal family would wear also. In one room there was also a slide show playing which showed dates and names of important events and photos of what Diana wore. Most of these events were humanitarian related and really presented her in such a positive light. The slide show worked well as it was a quick method of gaining a lot of information and it attracted a lot of attention from the exhibition visitors. I was also shocked at how busy it was inside. There were

so many people it took a long time to walk round as the corridors and rooms were completely full. Overall, the exhibition was set out stunningly and it definitely served its purpose of presenting Diana’s exquisite fashion collection as well as teaching people a little bit more about her and her life. I came away feeling enlightened and inspired to be as good of a person as Diana.


An Interview with Victoria Rubin

As part of my research into cheerleading, I decided to conduct an interview with the head coach from Unity Allstars. Unity Allstars is one of the top allstar cheerleading companies in the UK. They are the home to 19 teams in total and the Ruby squad has even competed and came 5th place in the World Championships. The company is based in Surrey and holds numerous national and grand championship titles. I emailed Victoria Rubin from Unity Allstars, to find out more about their cheer uniforms. The first question I asked was “Do you change the Unity Allstars uniform every season? If not, how often?” and she answered “Every two years for Worlds teams and every three years

for all other teams.” I thought this was interesting as in the fashion industry, trends and styles are changing all the time, and they definitely won’t be the same after two years. This presents how different the fashion industry is compared to the cheer industry. My second question was “Do you ever look at current fashion trends/ styles to inspire squad uniform?” the reply was “We work closely with Rebel Athletic as we have a partnership deal with them. We get ideas from the couture lookbook and shoots they have done.”. Rebel Athletic is a clothing company that specializes in gym and cheerleading wear. This reflects the fashion industry quite well as designers often use lookbooks and other designers’


work for inspiration for their own work. I then asked “Are there any rules you must comply with when designing uniform to be worn at a competition?” “Uniforms must be age appropriate and comfortable to compete in. Only our Worlds teams wear crops, all other teams wear full length uniforms.” In Cheerleading, ‘Worlds’ is the best and most exclusive competition you can compete in, so it’s only common sense that the team who competes in worlds will have a more prestige uniform with more effort involved with making and designing it. The crop top style with full length arms is very popular at worlds as it gives athletes the flexibility and movement they need, especially at such a high competitive level. “what fabrics/materials are Unity Allstars’ current uniforms made from?” was my next question, and Victoria replied with “A mix of motionFLEX, sub dye and lycra with crystals.” MotionFLEX is a fabric often used in cheerleading uniforms due to its fit and stretch capabilities. Lycra is famous for its high stretch percentage and is very popular across all

types of sportswear. The added crystals and sub dye are used for an aesthetic effect to create high quality imagery and patterns or prints. This is how all star cheerleading and varsity cheerleading differs; varsity never uses prints or crystals in the uniform and is very traditional high school themed. My final question was “How do the uniforms differ for the different teams and ages at Unity Allstars?” Victoria answered “Our youngest teams wear a long body and shorts

with a modest amount of detailing. Our junior teams have a cut out back design with skirt and more crystals, our senior teams wear long body’s with skirts and a crystal colour with a large amount of detail, and our worlds teams we go all out with crops and a high level of intricate design work.” This again supports what I was saying about making the worlds teams look as best as they can, after

all they are broadcasted on TV and will represent the entire company. The use of lookbooks in the design process do present the similarities between the two industries although the fashion industry is just a lot faster moving whereas cheerleaders can stick with the same uniform for multiple years and still look in style. One reason behind this could be that cheerleaders have to create an image and an iconic look for their company. For example, I associate black fabric and with gold lettering and stars with Unity Allstars, so if they changed the stars or the colours, they’d lose their recognisability, which is an important factor of a successful company.


History Inspired T-shirt Whilst researching history of the past 100 years, I made collages (shown in this issue) and then transferred them onto a t-shirt. I used a plain white tee in men’s size XL so I couldn’t model it myself. I asked a friend of mine to model as she’s much taller than me so the top will just appear oversized. I love my collage and the faded effect I added

before transferring the print. The tee looks vintage and urban which I really like and I’m definitely proud of. It was really satisfying creating a physical outcome rather than just research and writing. It was also interesting to see how the process works and I can use it again in later research or personal projects.


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