spotlight
INTUITION ALE WORKS
new summer favorite
more craft beer
BEER ICE CREAM
IN STOCK AT WALMART
ON TAP june 2014
ONE NATION UNDER BEER
ONTAP.com FREE
ON TAP regulars
8 9 10 12
PUBLISHER & EDITOR IN CHIEF JESSICA ZORN CREATIVE DIRECTOR JESSICA ZORN BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MARIE TERRACINA
Brew Recipes The White House Porter & Ale
Brewing Business More Craft Beer at Walmart
Brewery Spotlight Intuition Ale Works
Brew & Food Craft Beer Ice Cream
EDITOR-AT-LARGE LISA HALL FEATURES EDITOR ALLEN SOLOMAN BREW RECIPES EDITOR REGINA ROHRIG BREWING BUSINESS EDITOR MONICA GREECE BREW AND FOOD EDITOR KATHERINE DUGAN
5
One Nation Under Beer Brew in the White House
EVENTS EDITOR LOGAN JAMES
15
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT EDITOR JACOB ALLEN
The Perfect Pour Ten Lessons on Pouring
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR GEORGE THAKE CONTRIBUTING WRITERS E. J SCHULTZ LISA MORRISON BRENDAN FARRINGTON ERIC ASIMOV CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS KRISTINA JOHNSON NICHOLAS HAIN ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER ABIGAIL SMITH
Contact Us ON TAP Magazine 24 On Tap Plaza Portland, OR 97212 ontap.com Distribution To distribute ON TAP Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@ontap.com Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.
18
Backyard Hops Growing your own hops
24
Improving Homebrew Make it even better
ON TAP regulars
8 9 10 12
PUBLISHER & EDITOR IN CHIEF JESSICA ZORN CREATIVE DIRECTOR JESSICA ZORN BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MARIE TERRACINA
Brew Recipes The White House Porter & Ale
Brewing Business More Craft Beer at Walmart
Brewery Spotlight Intuition Ale Works
Brew & Food Craft Beer Ice Cream
EDITOR-AT-LARGE LISA HALL FEATURES EDITOR ALLEN SOLOMAN BREW RECIPES EDITOR REGINA ROHRIG BREWING BUSINESS EDITOR MONICA GREECE BREW AND FOOD EDITOR KATHERINE DUGAN
5
One Nation Under Beer Brew in the White House
EVENTS EDITOR LOGAN JAMES
15
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT EDITOR JACOB ALLEN
The Perfect Pour Ten Lessons on Pouring
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR GEORGE THAKE CONTRIBUTING WRITERS E. J SCHULTZ LISA MORRISON BRENDAN FARRINGTON ERIC ASIMOV CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS KRISTINA JOHNSON NICHOLAS HAIN ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER ABIGAIL SMITH
Contact Us ON TAP Magazine 24 On Tap Plaza Portland, OR 97212 ontap.com Distribution To distribute ON TAP Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@ontap.com Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.
18
Backyard Hops Growing your own hops
24
Improving Homebrew Make it even better
EDITOR’S PAGE Dear Readers, I’ve always felt that there is nothing quite better than a refreshing craft beer after a day in the sun. Nothing quenches my thirst quite like beer. However, after traveling to Atlanta on vacation I may have found a new way to be refreshed. While out in Atlanta one afternoon I stumbled across an ice cream shop. I have a weakness for ice cream so of course I went in the shop as it was a warm day. I was pleasantly surprised when I realized the ice cream shop was no ordinary ice cream parlor, but actually a CRAFT BEER ice cream shop. Finally ice cream for adults! After I returned home and did more research on this upcoming phenomenon, I was happy to find out that this new trend is spreading rapidly around the states. In this month’s Brew and Food pairings (pg 12) you can read more about this new phenomenon of beer ice cream. Let me know what you think and submit your favorite craft beer ice cream recipes online at ontap.com to be featured in our blog.
Jessica Zorn Editor-in-Chief
EDITOR’S PAGE Dear Readers, I’ve always felt that there is nothing quite better than a refreshing craft beer after a day in the sun. Nothing quenches my thirst quite like beer. However, after traveling to Atlanta on vacation I may have found a new way to be refreshed. While out in Atlanta one afternoon I stumbled across an ice cream shop. I have a weakness for ice cream so of course I went in the shop as it was a warm day. I was pleasantly surprised when I realized the ice cream shop was no ordinary ice cream parlor, but actually a CRAFT BEER ice cream shop. Finally ice cream for adults! After I returned home and did more research on this upcoming phenomenon, I was happy to find out that this new trend is spreading rapidly around the states. In this month’s Brew and Food pairings (pg 12) you can read more about this new phenomenon of beer ice cream. Let me know what you think and submit your favorite craft beer ice cream recipes online at ontap.com to be featured in our blog.
Jessica Zorn Editor-in-Chief
EVENTS American Craft Beer Week May 13 –19, 2014
SAVOR An American Craft Beer & Food Experience June 14 – 15, 2014
Known as “The Mother of all Beer Weeks,” American Craft Beer Week celebrates craft brewers and craft beer culture in the US. It’s a national celebration across the US. Visit their website to find events at a brewery near you! Where: In brewpubs and small, independent craft breweries nationwide.
SAVOR is the main beer and food pairing event in the US! With 65 of the nation’s top independent craft brewers participating, this is where beer enthusiasts and foodies can interact directly with some of the greatest brewers and brewery owners in the world.
Where: New York City, New York Website: SavorCraftBeer.com
National Homebrewers Conference and National Homebrew Competition June 27 – 29, 2014 Join hundreds of homebrewers at the national conference for amateur brewers. Education and fun combine for a great experience!
Great American Beer Festival October 10 –12, 2014 Three days, over 450 breweries and more than 2,000 beers to enjoy. 2013 will be the 32nd year of the festival with nearly 50,000 people expected to attend. Purchase your tickets early, as the festival has sold out very quickly the past five years! Where: Denver, CO Website: GABeerFest.com
4
EVENTS
Where: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Website: AHAconference.org and HomebrewersAssociation.org
ONE NATION
UNDER BEER A LOOK INTO THE WHITE HOUSE BREWERY ERIC ASIMOV
EVENTS American Craft Beer Week May 13 –19, 2014
SAVOR An American Craft Beer & Food Experience June 14 – 15, 2014
Known as “The Mother of all Beer Weeks,” American Craft Beer Week celebrates craft brewers and craft beer culture in the US. It’s a national celebration across the US. Visit their website to find events at a brewery near you! Where: In brewpubs and small, independent craft breweries nationwide.
SAVOR is the main beer and food pairing event in the US! With 65 of the nation’s top independent craft brewers participating, this is where beer enthusiasts and foodies can interact directly with some of the greatest brewers and brewery owners in the world.
Where: New York City, New York Website: SavorCraftBeer.com
National Homebrewers Conference and National Homebrew Competition June 27 – 29, 2014 Join hundreds of homebrewers at the national conference for amateur brewers. Education and fun combine for a great experience!
Great American Beer Festival October 10 –12, 2014 Three days, over 450 breweries and more than 2,000 beers to enjoy. 2013 will be the 32nd year of the festival with nearly 50,000 people expected to attend. Purchase your tickets early, as the festival has sold out very quickly the past five years! Where: Denver, CO Website: GABeerFest.com
4
EVENTS
Where: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Website: AHAconference.org and HomebrewersAssociation.org
ONE NATION
UNDER BEER A LOOK INTO THE WHITE HOUSE BREWERY ERIC ASIMOV
The verdict: It was good. Very good. The aromas were floral with a touch of orange and a metallic note that I sometimes find in honey. On the palate, it was breezy, fresh, tangy and lightly bitter, not bone dry but not at all sweet. I could sense the honey in the round, rich texture of the beer: thickness without weight, like a Chenin Blanc wine. The soft carbonation enhanced the texture. It didn’t have the insistent rush of bubbles that you would find in a mass produced beer, or the snappy twang of a pilsner, but rather the soft fizz of a British hand-cranked cask ale. “It’s not without complexity,” Mr. Oliver said, “and it’s an interesting, broad sort of bitterness, a British type of bitterness, which fits the sort of hops they used.” The White House brewers chose classic British hops, Kent Goldings and Fuggles, which yield a gentle, more generalized sort of bitterness than the sharper grapefruit and pine of American hops familiar in American craft beers. They had taken another British-style step, adding mineral salts to the water, a process intended to mimic the famous waters of Burton-on-Trent, a British town renowned for its brewing heritage. Burtonizing is a long American tradition as well. Mr. Oliver has found advertisements in century-old brewing magazines for the American Burtonizing Company in New York.
A BREW OF HIS OWN Putting the White House brew to the test
It may well have been the most famous home-brewing experiment in history. The White House chefs, using a kit bought last year by President Obama, produced their own beer with honey harvested at the White House. The President was photographed over the summer enjoying the White House Honey Ale, which prompted a relentless demand that the administration hand over samples or at least discuss its methods. On Sept. 1, the White House yielded and published a recipe. The President said the beer was good. Was it? The On Tap truth squad leaped into action, enlisting Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, to make a batch to assess. After steeping, boiling, cooling, fermenting and settling, Mr. Oliver stowed away 38 750-milliliter corked bottles to mature in a conditioning room kept at 77 degrees. One
month later, the beer was ready to be tasted. On Monday, Mr. Oliver and I uncorked one chilled bottle. Mr. Oliver had expressed concern that the beer might not be ready, but our patience had reached its limit. The potential problem? Brewers carbonate most mass-market 6
FEATURE
beers by injecting them with carbon dioxide, but home brewers generally rely on the ancient technique of initiating a small second fermentation in the bottle before capping it. With nowhere to escape, the carbon dioxide produced by this fermentation turns into the bubbles that animate the beer. If the second fermentation had gone wrong, or simply wasn’t finished, we’d know. The uncorking would be accompanied by a wimpy sigh, or worse, silence. We hoped for the best as Mr. Oliver removed the wire cage imprisoning the cork. He pulled it out, and with it came a stately, resounding pop.
“Ladies and gentlemen, we have beer,” he said. Methodically, he filled a couple of goblets. The beer poured out a lovely auburn brown with touches of red glinting in the midday sunlight. It was hazy, indicating that dead yeast cells had not completed their journey downward to the bottom of the bottle. A rocky head of foam was textured and held its form nicely. We drank, tentatively at first, then deeply.
As the beer was exposed to air in the glass, it seemed to become brighter and juicier. Professional brewers have many sophisticated techniques for shaping complexity, but home brewers have it all over them when it comes to freshness. Drinking a proper home-brewed beer that is alive and leaps from the glass is enough to bear out President Obama’s assessment. For me, the biggest surprise was how powerfully the honey influenced the beer in almost every aspect — texture, aroma, flavor — except sweetness. It was a reminder of how extraordinary honey can be both as an ingredient and as a reflection of its particular origins. Mr. Oliver said a request to the White House for a jar of its own honey went unanswered, so he used local wildflower honey, thinking that White House bees would have little motivation to rove beyond the flowers on the grounds. In analyzing the beer as it was brewed, Mr. Oliver was surprised by how much sugar went unfermented and feared it might be a tad sweet. He pondered whether, on a second try, he would take steps to make the beer drier. “Now that I’ve tasted it, I don’t think I would,” he said.
“It’s perfectly balanced.” The beer is still young. With time, the yeast particles should settle, clarifying the brew, and Mr. Oliver suggested it might carbonate a little more. Six months from now, it might develop some nutty, sherry-like characteristics as the beer begins to oxidize. Aside from curiosity, I’d prefer to drink it fresh. In the end, the White House beer is easy drinking at 4.89 percent alcohol. It is rich, round and not terribly bitter. It’s a people’s beer that ought to please a wide spectrum of drinkers, from novices to aficionados.
“It has character, but it’s also crowd-pleasing,” Oliver said. “It’s a politically friendly beer in that regard, and isn’t that what we’re all looking for?”
FEATURE
7
The verdict: It was good. Very good. The aromas were floral with a touch of orange and a metallic note that I sometimes find in honey. On the palate, it was breezy, fresh, tangy and lightly bitter, not bone dry but not at all sweet. I could sense the honey in the round, rich texture of the beer: thickness without weight, like a Chenin Blanc wine. The soft carbonation enhanced the texture. It didn’t have the insistent rush of bubbles that you would find in a mass produced beer, or the snappy twang of a pilsner, but rather the soft fizz of a British hand-cranked cask ale. “It’s not without complexity,” Mr. Oliver said, “and it’s an interesting, broad sort of bitterness, a British type of bitterness, which fits the sort of hops they used.” The White House brewers chose classic British hops, Kent Goldings and Fuggles, which yield a gentle, more generalized sort of bitterness than the sharper grapefruit and pine of American hops familiar in American craft beers. They had taken another British-style step, adding mineral salts to the water, a process intended to mimic the famous waters of Burton-on-Trent, a British town renowned for its brewing heritage. Burtonizing is a long American tradition as well. Mr. Oliver has found advertisements in century-old brewing magazines for the American Burtonizing Company in New York.
A BREW OF HIS OWN Putting the White House brew to the test
It may well have been the most famous home-brewing experiment in history. The White House chefs, using a kit bought last year by President Obama, produced their own beer with honey harvested at the White House. The President was photographed over the summer enjoying the White House Honey Ale, which prompted a relentless demand that the administration hand over samples or at least discuss its methods. On Sept. 1, the White House yielded and published a recipe. The President said the beer was good. Was it? The On Tap truth squad leaped into action, enlisting Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, to make a batch to assess. After steeping, boiling, cooling, fermenting and settling, Mr. Oliver stowed away 38 750-milliliter corked bottles to mature in a conditioning room kept at 77 degrees. One
month later, the beer was ready to be tasted. On Monday, Mr. Oliver and I uncorked one chilled bottle. Mr. Oliver had expressed concern that the beer might not be ready, but our patience had reached its limit. The potential problem? Brewers carbonate most mass-market 6
FEATURE
beers by injecting them with carbon dioxide, but home brewers generally rely on the ancient technique of initiating a small second fermentation in the bottle before capping it. With nowhere to escape, the carbon dioxide produced by this fermentation turns into the bubbles that animate the beer. If the second fermentation had gone wrong, or simply wasn’t finished, we’d know. The uncorking would be accompanied by a wimpy sigh, or worse, silence. We hoped for the best as Mr. Oliver removed the wire cage imprisoning the cork. He pulled it out, and with it came a stately, resounding pop.
“Ladies and gentlemen, we have beer,” he said. Methodically, he filled a couple of goblets. The beer poured out a lovely auburn brown with touches of red glinting in the midday sunlight. It was hazy, indicating that dead yeast cells had not completed their journey downward to the bottom of the bottle. A rocky head of foam was textured and held its form nicely. We drank, tentatively at first, then deeply.
As the beer was exposed to air in the glass, it seemed to become brighter and juicier. Professional brewers have many sophisticated techniques for shaping complexity, but home brewers have it all over them when it comes to freshness. Drinking a proper home-brewed beer that is alive and leaps from the glass is enough to bear out President Obama’s assessment. For me, the biggest surprise was how powerfully the honey influenced the beer in almost every aspect — texture, aroma, flavor — except sweetness. It was a reminder of how extraordinary honey can be both as an ingredient and as a reflection of its particular origins. Mr. Oliver said a request to the White House for a jar of its own honey went unanswered, so he used local wildflower honey, thinking that White House bees would have little motivation to rove beyond the flowers on the grounds. In analyzing the beer as it was brewed, Mr. Oliver was surprised by how much sugar went unfermented and feared it might be a tad sweet. He pondered whether, on a second try, he would take steps to make the beer drier. “Now that I’ve tasted it, I don’t think I would,” he said.
“It’s perfectly balanced.” The beer is still young. With time, the yeast particles should settle, clarifying the brew, and Mr. Oliver suggested it might carbonate a little more. Six months from now, it might develop some nutty, sherry-like characteristics as the beer begins to oxidize. Aside from curiosity, I’d prefer to drink it fresh. In the end, the White House beer is easy drinking at 4.89 percent alcohol. It is rich, round and not terribly bitter. It’s a people’s beer that ought to please a wide spectrum of drinkers, from novices to aficionados.
“It has character, but it’s also crowd-pleasing,” Oliver said. “It’s a politically friendly beer in that regard, and isn’t that what we’re all looking for?”
FEATURE
7
MORE CRAFT BEER
BREW RECIPES
Craft now in stock at local Walmart
WHITE HOUSE
E. J. Schultz
HONEY PORTER AND HONEY ALE HONEY PORTER 2 (3.3 lb) cans light unhopped malt extract ¾ lb Munich Malt (cracked) 1 lb crystal 20 malt (cracked) 6 oz black malt (cracked) 3 oz chocolate malt (cracked) 1 lb White House Honey 10 HBUs bittering hops ½ oz Hallertaur Aroma hops 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast ¾ cup corn sugar for bottling
In another sign that the
STEP ONE In a 6 qt pot, add grains to 2.25 qts of 168˚ water. Mix well to bring temp down to 155˚. Steep on stovetop at 155˚ for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, bring 2 gallons of water to 165˚ in a 12 qt pot. Place strainer over, then pour and spoon all the grains and liquid in. Rinse with 2 gallons of 165˚ water. Let liquid drain through. Discard the grains and bring the liquid to a boil. Set aside.
STEP TWO Add the 2 cans of malt extract and honey into the pot. Stir well.
STEP THREE Boil for an hour. Add half of the bittering hops at the 15 minute mark, the other half at 30 minute mark, then the aroma hops at the 60 minute mark. Set aside and let stand for 15 minutes.
HONEY ALE 2 (3.3 lb) cans light malt extract 1 lb light dried malt extract 2 oz crushed amber crystal malt 8 oz Biscuit Malt 11 lb White House Honey 1½ oz Kent Goldings Hop Pellets 1½ oz Fuggles Hop pellets 2 tsp gypsum 1 pkg Windsor dry ale yeast ¾ cup corn sugar for priming
8
BREW RECIPES
STEP ONE In an 12 qt pot, steep the grains in a hop bag in 1½ gallons of sterile water at 155˚ for 30 minutes. Then remove the grains.
STEP TWO Add the 2 cans of the malt extract and the dried extract and bring to a boil.
STEP THREE For the first flavoring, add the 1½ oz Kent Goldings and 2 tsp of gypsum. Boil for 45 minutes. For the second flavoring, add the 1½ oz Fuggles hop pellets at the last minute of the boil. Add the honey and boil for 5 minutes.
STEP FOUR Place 2 gallons of chilled water into the primary fermenter and add the hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons if necessary. Place into an ice bath to cool down to 70 – 80˚.
STEP FIVE Activate dry yeast in 1 cup of sterilized water at 75 – 90˚ for 15 minutes. Pitch yeast into the fermenter. Fill airlock halfway with water. Ferment at room temp (64–68˚) for about 3 – 4 days. Siphon over to a secondary glass fermenter for another 4 – 7 days.
STEP SIX To bottle, make a priming syrup on the stove with 1 cup sterile water and ¾ cup priming sugar, bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Pour the mixture into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter over it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into bottles and cap. Let sit for 1 – 2 weeks at 75˚.
STEP FOUR Add 2 gallons chilled sterile water into the primary fermenter and add the hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons. There is no need to strain.
STEP FIVE Pitch yeast when wort temperature is between 70 – 80˚. Fill airlock halfway with water. Ferment at 68 – 72˚ for about 7 days. Rack to a secondary fermenter after 5 days and ferment for 14 more days.
STEP SIX To bottle, dissolve the corn sugar into 2 pints of boiling water for 15 minutes. Pour the mixture into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter over it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into bottles and cap. Let sit for 2 to 3 weeks at 75˚.
fast-growing segment is going mainstream, the nation’s largest company and beer seller is planning to add shelf space to accommodate more craft brews, former Walmart CEO Lee Scott told distributors this week at their annual convention in Las Vegas. Mr. Scott, who retired as CEO in 2009 but still serves on the board, said he recently talked to a top Walmart official who is “clearly is in line with the fact we’ve got to make more space, we have to have more representation on assortment.” Walmart, Mr. Scott added, “built the company on two things: One was price, but the other was assortment, and you can’t take area like beer where people are moving to craft and ‘under-assort’ yourself because the person who is buying craft beer and wants that assortment will drive to Kroger and pay the 15% more.”
“Anyone who thinks this has peaked, we’ve maxed out totally, I got news for ya — not yet,“ Benji Stineman
Mr. Scott, a featured speaker at the Beer Wholesalers Association event at Caesar’s Palace, said that local store managers will have a big say in which new beers will be stocked where. “I’ll tell you how it happens at Walmart: You have a 26-year-old buyer who makes the decision. The vice president is supposed to do a walk-through with them on why did you do this how did you do it.” But “it is the buyer who is making that decision on those individual stores.” While craft beer still only commands about 5% of the beer market, these smaller, mostly regional brands are the only bright spot in beer, growing at a 14% clip compared with a 2% decline in the overall beer category, experts said at the convention. At this point, no one expects craft to overtake big brands, but there’s still plenty of room for growth. Small breweries are coming online at a record pace. In 2010 a total of 1,753 breweries of all sizes operated for some
or all of the year, the highest total since the late 1800s, according to the Brewers Association.“Anyone who thinks this has peaked, we’ve maxed it out totally, I got news for ya — not yet,” Beer Marketers Insights CEO and president Benj Steinman told distributors. “Of course there is a theoretical limit and it is going to separate more out into winners and losers over time. But this is a trend that right now has the wind at its back.” Indeed, craft was a star at this week’s
convention, attended by some 3,500 beer industry professionals. The “Craft Brewer’s Pavilion,” tucked in the corner of the trade-show floor, was heavily trafficked, as brewers such as Allagash Brewing Co. from Maine and Stone Brewing Co. from California showed off their products. Of course, the big guys are also trying to get in on the action, putting more focus on their own smaller brands, such as Blue Moon made by MillerCoors and Shock Top by Anheuser-Busch InBev. And now, they will all be slugging it out for more space at Walmart.
BREWING BUSINESS
9
MORE CRAFT BEER
BREW RECIPES
Craft now in stock at local Walmart
WHITE HOUSE
E. J. Schultz
HONEY PORTER AND HONEY ALE HONEY PORTER 2 (3.3 lb) cans light unhopped malt extract ¾ lb Munich Malt (cracked) 1 lb crystal 20 malt (cracked) 6 oz black malt (cracked) 3 oz chocolate malt (cracked) 1 lb White House Honey 10 HBUs bittering hops ½ oz Hallertaur Aroma hops 1 pkg Nottingham dry yeast ¾ cup corn sugar for bottling
In another sign that the
STEP ONE In a 6 qt pot, add grains to 2.25 qts of 168˚ water. Mix well to bring temp down to 155˚. Steep on stovetop at 155˚ for 45 minutes. Meanwhile, bring 2 gallons of water to 165˚ in a 12 qt pot. Place strainer over, then pour and spoon all the grains and liquid in. Rinse with 2 gallons of 165˚ water. Let liquid drain through. Discard the grains and bring the liquid to a boil. Set aside.
STEP TWO Add the 2 cans of malt extract and honey into the pot. Stir well.
STEP THREE Boil for an hour. Add half of the bittering hops at the 15 minute mark, the other half at 30 minute mark, then the aroma hops at the 60 minute mark. Set aside and let stand for 15 minutes.
HONEY ALE 2 (3.3 lb) cans light malt extract 1 lb light dried malt extract 2 oz crushed amber crystal malt 8 oz Biscuit Malt 11 lb White House Honey 1½ oz Kent Goldings Hop Pellets 1½ oz Fuggles Hop pellets 2 tsp gypsum 1 pkg Windsor dry ale yeast ¾ cup corn sugar for priming
8
BREW RECIPES
STEP ONE In an 12 qt pot, steep the grains in a hop bag in 1½ gallons of sterile water at 155˚ for 30 minutes. Then remove the grains.
STEP TWO Add the 2 cans of the malt extract and the dried extract and bring to a boil.
STEP THREE For the first flavoring, add the 1½ oz Kent Goldings and 2 tsp of gypsum. Boil for 45 minutes. For the second flavoring, add the 1½ oz Fuggles hop pellets at the last minute of the boil. Add the honey and boil for 5 minutes.
STEP FOUR Place 2 gallons of chilled water into the primary fermenter and add the hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons if necessary. Place into an ice bath to cool down to 70 – 80˚.
STEP FIVE Activate dry yeast in 1 cup of sterilized water at 75 – 90˚ for 15 minutes. Pitch yeast into the fermenter. Fill airlock halfway with water. Ferment at room temp (64–68˚) for about 3 – 4 days. Siphon over to a secondary glass fermenter for another 4 – 7 days.
STEP SIX To bottle, make a priming syrup on the stove with 1 cup sterile water and ¾ cup priming sugar, bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Pour the mixture into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter over it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into bottles and cap. Let sit for 1 – 2 weeks at 75˚.
STEP FOUR Add 2 gallons chilled sterile water into the primary fermenter and add the hot wort into it. Top with more water to total 5 gallons. There is no need to strain.
STEP FIVE Pitch yeast when wort temperature is between 70 – 80˚. Fill airlock halfway with water. Ferment at 68 – 72˚ for about 7 days. Rack to a secondary fermenter after 5 days and ferment for 14 more days.
STEP SIX To bottle, dissolve the corn sugar into 2 pints of boiling water for 15 minutes. Pour the mixture into an empty bottling bucket. Siphon the beer from the fermenter over it. Distribute priming sugar evenly. Siphon into bottles and cap. Let sit for 2 to 3 weeks at 75˚.
fast-growing segment is going mainstream, the nation’s largest company and beer seller is planning to add shelf space to accommodate more craft brews, former Walmart CEO Lee Scott told distributors this week at their annual convention in Las Vegas. Mr. Scott, who retired as CEO in 2009 but still serves on the board, said he recently talked to a top Walmart official who is “clearly is in line with the fact we’ve got to make more space, we have to have more representation on assortment.” Walmart, Mr. Scott added, “built the company on two things: One was price, but the other was assortment, and you can’t take area like beer where people are moving to craft and ‘under-assort’ yourself because the person who is buying craft beer and wants that assortment will drive to Kroger and pay the 15% more.”
“Anyone who thinks this has peaked, we’ve maxed out totally, I got news for ya — not yet,“ Benji Stineman
Mr. Scott, a featured speaker at the Beer Wholesalers Association event at Caesar’s Palace, said that local store managers will have a big say in which new beers will be stocked where. “I’ll tell you how it happens at Walmart: You have a 26-year-old buyer who makes the decision. The vice president is supposed to do a walk-through with them on why did you do this how did you do it.” But “it is the buyer who is making that decision on those individual stores.” While craft beer still only commands about 5% of the beer market, these smaller, mostly regional brands are the only bright spot in beer, growing at a 14% clip compared with a 2% decline in the overall beer category, experts said at the convention. At this point, no one expects craft to overtake big brands, but there’s still plenty of room for growth. Small breweries are coming online at a record pace. In 2010 a total of 1,753 breweries of all sizes operated for some
or all of the year, the highest total since the late 1800s, according to the Brewers Association.“Anyone who thinks this has peaked, we’ve maxed it out totally, I got news for ya — not yet,” Beer Marketers Insights CEO and president Benj Steinman told distributors. “Of course there is a theoretical limit and it is going to separate more out into winners and losers over time. But this is a trend that right now has the wind at its back.” Indeed, craft was a star at this week’s
convention, attended by some 3,500 beer industry professionals. The “Craft Brewer’s Pavilion,” tucked in the corner of the trade-show floor, was heavily trafficked, as brewers such as Allagash Brewing Co. from Maine and Stone Brewing Co. from California showed off their products. Of course, the big guys are also trying to get in on the action, putting more focus on their own smaller brands, such as Blue Moon made by MillerCoors and Shock Top by Anheuser-Busch InBev. And now, they will all be slugging it out for more space at Walmart.
BREWING BUSINESS
9
INTUITION ALE WORKS Brendan Farrington
Ben Davis didn’t just open Intuition Ale Works to make great beer, he also wanted to make Jacksonville, Florida
A BETTER PLACE.
Until recent years, Jacksonville Florida’s best known association with beer was its regional Anheuser-Busch brewery. That is changing quickly, and Intuition Ale Works, with its new tasting room and a large variety of great house beers, is doing its part.
“I’ve always wanted to do something to make Jacksonville a cooler place,” said Founder Ben Davis. “I have a bunch of buddies that have a lot of kids that are the same age, and honestly, we want our kids to want to come back to Jacksonville, Florida. We don’t want them to go to Atlanta or Chicago or Boston. I want my boys to be back in Jacksonville because it’s cool.” While Intuition Ale Works wasn’t the first craft brewery to open in the city, Davis wanted to be part of a making the city a beer destination. And if it’s cool he’s striving for, he has succeeded. Intuition Ale Works brews in a small, early 20th century industrial building on the edge of what is now one of the Jacksonville’s hippest areas. There is also an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars nearby that prominently feature craft beer, with special attention for local beers. Davis set up his brewery in 2010 within a short walk of Jacksonville’s craft brewing pioneer, Bold City Brewery. Now both are anchoring
10
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT
what is one of Florida’s best craft beer regions. The attraction of Intuition Ale Works isn’t just the beer, although that in itself is well worth the visit. The tasting room would be a great neighborhood bar regardless. Davis remembers looking at the building (which dates back to the early 1920s) with a friend who had his doubts about the place:
“He said, ‘How are you going to make this cool?’ and I was like, ‘Cool? It’s got brick walls, and beer and character.’” “And that’s my biggest concern if we ever do move or expand and have to move to another location to meet our production needs — losing that character.” And the brewery is expanding. It brewed just under 1,200 barrels its first year and just under 2,600 in 2012, the same year they started canning their most popular beers — I-10 IPA, People’s Pale Ale and Jon Boat Coastal Ale. Intuition usually has about 20 different house beers available in the taproom. And, they aren’t afraid of getting creative! Their Truck Stop Breakfast Stout is brewed with maple syrup and locally-roasted coffee. There’s plenty to keep hop-heads happy too, including the Rail Spur IPA and the Riverside Red. “That’s what’s fun for us here in our taproom…the fact that we have so many different styles. I think people start to trust.” “They say, ‘Hey not every beer they make is 10 percent alcohol and 1,000 IBUs and black as night,” Davis said.
Right now most of Intuition’s sales are in the northeast Florida, though they’ve recently expanded into the Tampa area. While Davis has long term goals of expanding into Georgia and North and South Carolina, he also realizes conquering the Florida market is a big task. “Florida is such a large market that it’s really hard to move outside the state until we meet the demand here,” Davis said. Florida has 19 million people and attracts nearly 90 million tourists each year, yet it has lagged
far behind other states in craft beer production. It wasn’t long ago that the greater Portland, Oregon region had more craft breweries than the entire state of Florida. That, however, is changing, and Intuition Ale Works is a key part of a beer scene in Jacksonville and nearby St. Augustine — which now has at least six craft breweries and a handful of brew pubs. Davis doesn’t mind the company as long as it helps other Floridians appreciate good craft beer in general. “People ask me all the time who’s your number one competitor because they want me to go, ‘Bold City or Green Room or Cigar City,’” Davis said. “And honestly, I don’t even look at that as our issue.”
“Our issue is getting people to carry better beer and a better variety,” said Davis.
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT
11
INTUITION ALE WORKS Brendan Farrington
Ben Davis didn’t just open Intuition Ale Works to make great beer, he also wanted to make Jacksonville, Florida
A BETTER PLACE.
Until recent years, Jacksonville Florida’s best known association with beer was its regional Anheuser-Busch brewery. That is changing quickly, and Intuition Ale Works, with its new tasting room and a large variety of great house beers, is doing its part.
“I’ve always wanted to do something to make Jacksonville a cooler place,” said Founder Ben Davis. “I have a bunch of buddies that have a lot of kids that are the same age, and honestly, we want our kids to want to come back to Jacksonville, Florida. We don’t want them to go to Atlanta or Chicago or Boston. I want my boys to be back in Jacksonville because it’s cool.” While Intuition Ale Works wasn’t the first craft brewery to open in the city, Davis wanted to be part of a making the city a beer destination. And if it’s cool he’s striving for, he has succeeded. Intuition Ale Works brews in a small, early 20th century industrial building on the edge of what is now one of the Jacksonville’s hippest areas. There is also an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars nearby that prominently feature craft beer, with special attention for local beers. Davis set up his brewery in 2010 within a short walk of Jacksonville’s craft brewing pioneer, Bold City Brewery. Now both are anchoring
10
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT
what is one of Florida’s best craft beer regions. The attraction of Intuition Ale Works isn’t just the beer, although that in itself is well worth the visit. The tasting room would be a great neighborhood bar regardless. Davis remembers looking at the building (which dates back to the early 1920s) with a friend who had his doubts about the place:
“He said, ‘How are you going to make this cool?’ and I was like, ‘Cool? It’s got brick walls, and beer and character.’” “And that’s my biggest concern if we ever do move or expand and have to move to another location to meet our production needs — losing that character.” And the brewery is expanding. It brewed just under 1,200 barrels its first year and just under 2,600 in 2012, the same year they started canning their most popular beers — I-10 IPA, People’s Pale Ale and Jon Boat Coastal Ale. Intuition usually has about 20 different house beers available in the taproom. And, they aren’t afraid of getting creative! Their Truck Stop Breakfast Stout is brewed with maple syrup and locally-roasted coffee. There’s plenty to keep hop-heads happy too, including the Rail Spur IPA and the Riverside Red. “That’s what’s fun for us here in our taproom…the fact that we have so many different styles. I think people start to trust.” “They say, ‘Hey not every beer they make is 10 percent alcohol and 1,000 IBUs and black as night,” Davis said.
Right now most of Intuition’s sales are in the northeast Florida, though they’ve recently expanded into the Tampa area. While Davis has long term goals of expanding into Georgia and North and South Carolina, he also realizes conquering the Florida market is a big task. “Florida is such a large market that it’s really hard to move outside the state until we meet the demand here,” Davis said. Florida has 19 million people and attracts nearly 90 million tourists each year, yet it has lagged
far behind other states in craft beer production. It wasn’t long ago that the greater Portland, Oregon region had more craft breweries than the entire state of Florida. That, however, is changing, and Intuition Ale Works is a key part of a beer scene in Jacksonville and nearby St. Augustine — which now has at least six craft breweries and a handful of brew pubs. Davis doesn’t mind the company as long as it helps other Floridians appreciate good craft beer in general. “People ask me all the time who’s your number one competitor because they want me to go, ‘Bold City or Green Room or Cigar City,’” Davis said. “And honestly, I don’t even look at that as our issue.”
“Our issue is getting people to carry better beer and a better variety,” said Davis.
BREWERY SPOTLIGHT
11
Although at first glance,
YOU SCREAM, I SCREAM
CRAFT BEER ICE CREAM! Lisa Morrison
it might seem like an unlikely combination, craft beer fans have known for years the beauty of a beer ice cream float — taking that first taste with reserved speculation and then letting the magical combination of dairy cream sweetness and rich beer goodness envelop their mouths. Now, a few enthusiasts, Salt and Straw, Sweet Action Ice Cream, and Frozen Pints, are taking that magic to the next level and putting beer in their ice cream.
Salt & Straw | Portland, Oregon Like Basinger, Tyler Malek of the artisan ice creamery Salt & Straw felt that making beer ice cream seemed like a natural fit for a city with so many breweries. “It all started with us moving here and working with cooks and chefs in Portland — and realizing that the brewers are such an important part of the community,” Malek says. “I was inspired by seeing the combinations they created in their beers, and I realized that collaborating with them was almost mandatory for me to learn more about this artisan beer community.”
12
BREW & FOOD
While most ice cream makers simply add beer as an ingredient, Malek actually brews with local brewers to make a special ingredient for his ice creams. “We work closely with the brewers in order to make a beer
syrup — a thick version of their unfermented wort that’s an exact replica of the beer,” Malek says. “It’s hard to get flavor with beer, and boiling down beer changes the hop and grain profiles. Cream also influences the flavor, so in order to get the true flavor, you have to add more beer, which changes the texture of the ice cream. The beer syrup helps us achieve that beer flavor without having to add too much beer.” “We were looking at doing a maple-bacon ice cream,” says Malek. “I was enjoying Laurelwood’s Brown Ale and noticed the maple notes in the beer and it got me thinking. To make the ice cream, we paired the Brown Ale with some candied bacon — and our first beer ice cream was born.” BREW & FOOD
13
Although at first glance,
YOU SCREAM, I SCREAM
CRAFT BEER ICE CREAM! Lisa Morrison
it might seem like an unlikely combination, craft beer fans have known for years the beauty of a beer ice cream float — taking that first taste with reserved speculation and then letting the magical combination of dairy cream sweetness and rich beer goodness envelop their mouths. Now, a few enthusiasts, Salt and Straw, Sweet Action Ice Cream, and Frozen Pints, are taking that magic to the next level and putting beer in their ice cream.
Salt & Straw | Portland, Oregon Like Basinger, Tyler Malek of the artisan ice creamery Salt & Straw felt that making beer ice cream seemed like a natural fit for a city with so many breweries. “It all started with us moving here and working with cooks and chefs in Portland — and realizing that the brewers are such an important part of the community,” Malek says. “I was inspired by seeing the combinations they created in their beers, and I realized that collaborating with them was almost mandatory for me to learn more about this artisan beer community.”
12
BREW & FOOD
While most ice cream makers simply add beer as an ingredient, Malek actually brews with local brewers to make a special ingredient for his ice creams. “We work closely with the brewers in order to make a beer
syrup — a thick version of their unfermented wort that’s an exact replica of the beer,” Malek says. “It’s hard to get flavor with beer, and boiling down beer changes the hop and grain profiles. Cream also influences the flavor, so in order to get the true flavor, you have to add more beer, which changes the texture of the ice cream. The beer syrup helps us achieve that beer flavor without having to add too much beer.” “We were looking at doing a maple-bacon ice cream,” says Malek. “I was enjoying Laurelwood’s Brown Ale and noticed the maple notes in the beer and it got me thinking. To make the ice cream, we paired the Brown Ale with some candied bacon — and our first beer ice cream was born.” BREW & FOOD
13
Sweet Action Ice Cream | Denver, Colorado
Frozen Pints | Atlanta, Georgia
Attendees of the Great American Beer Festival might be familiar with the beer ice cream creations of Sweet Action Ice Cream, who host their own Denver Beer Ice Cream Fest concurrently. Owners Chia Basinger and Sam Kopicko have made several beer ice cream flavors with different versions of Yeti Imperial Stout: Coffee Yeti Stout, Chocolate Yeti Butterscotch, Chocolate Yeti Boysenberry Swirl and Chocolate Yeti Butterfinger.
For Ari Fleischer of Frozen Pints, an Atlanta-based ice creamery that makes beer ice creams exclusively, the concept of beer ice cream came to him truly by accident.
“Our first beer ice cream was Vanilla Porter, made with the Vanilla Porter from Breckenridge Brewery,” Basinger says. “We had that flavor available on the very first day that we opened, in 2009. We place an emphasis on using local ingredients and since we live in one of the world’s centers for good craft beer, it would be silly for us not to take advantage of the great beers made here in Colorado.”
ON TAP preview Brew Recipes Beer Popsicles
Brewing Business
“We were having a barbecue, and a friend of mine happened to bring over an ice cream maker,” Fleischer remembers. “We’re all craft beer geeks, so of course we had some solid brews around. One thing led to another, and my buddy actually spilled his beer right next to the ice cream maker. I saw it happen, and it just kind of clicked — why not pour it in and see how it turns out? The first batch came out pretty tasty, so I picked it up as a hobby. Fast forward a few months, and I realized that I was actually onto something and decided to go at it full blast.”
New Regulations on Beer
Brewery Spotlight Urban Chestnut
Brew & Food Barbecuing with Beer
Tips for Perfecting Homemade Craft Beer Ice Cream While many of us might not want to go pro, making beer ice cream at home could easily become a summertime habit or hobby. For those who want to give it a go, these pros have a few tips on making your beer ice cream even better. Whisk the beer for a while to flatten it out. The carbonation will mess with the ice cream’s texture. Don’t cook the beer down to get the alcohol out of it. Don’t use too much beer in the ice cream. Too much beer, because of the alcohol that’s in it, will prevent your ice cream from setting. The beer can have a very negative effect on the texture if you use too much, 14
BREW & FOOD
but once you find an appropriate amount, you usually don’t have to compensate for the addition in the recipe. If anything, the home chef can add a little sugar to the recipe to help it stay creamier. One recommendation was top on all the ice cream makers’ lists: use good craft beer. “You can’t make good beer ice cream from just any old beer — it needs to be flavorful and unique,” Fleischer says. “Take a trip down to your local craft beer spot and get a handle on some different flavor profiles. After that, it’s all about experimentation.”
Sweet Action Ice Cream | Denver, Colorado
Frozen Pints | Atlanta, Georgia
Attendees of the Great American Beer Festival might be familiar with the beer ice cream creations of Sweet Action Ice Cream, who host their own Denver Beer Ice Cream Fest concurrently. Owners Chia Basinger and Sam Kopicko have made several beer ice cream flavors with different versions of Yeti Imperial Stout: Coffee Yeti Stout, Chocolate Yeti Butterscotch, Chocolate Yeti Boysenberry Swirl and Chocolate Yeti Butterfinger.
For Ari Fleischer of Frozen Pints, an Atlanta-based ice creamery that makes beer ice creams exclusively, the concept of beer ice cream came to him truly by accident.
“Our first beer ice cream was Vanilla Porter, made with the Vanilla Porter from Breckenridge Brewery,” Basinger says. “We had that flavor available on the very first day that we opened, in 2009. We place an emphasis on using local ingredients and since we live in one of the world’s centers for good craft beer, it would be silly for us not to take advantage of the great beers made here in Colorado.”
ON TAP preview Brew Recipes Beer Popsicles
Brewing Business
“We were having a barbecue, and a friend of mine happened to bring over an ice cream maker,” Fleischer remembers. “We’re all craft beer geeks, so of course we had some solid brews around. One thing led to another, and my buddy actually spilled his beer right next to the ice cream maker. I saw it happen, and it just kind of clicked — why not pour it in and see how it turns out? The first batch came out pretty tasty, so I picked it up as a hobby. Fast forward a few months, and I realized that I was actually onto something and decided to go at it full blast.”
New Regulations on Beer
Brewery Spotlight Urban Chestnut
Brew & Food Barbecuing with Beer
Tips for Perfecting Homemade Craft Beer Ice Cream While many of us might not want to go pro, making beer ice cream at home could easily become a summertime habit or hobby. For those who want to give it a go, these pros have a few tips on making your beer ice cream even better. Whisk the beer for a while to flatten it out. The carbonation will mess with the ice cream’s texture. Don’t cook the beer down to get the alcohol out of it. Don’t use too much beer in the ice cream. Too much beer, because of the alcohol that’s in it, will prevent your ice cream from setting. The beer can have a very negative effect on the texture if you use too much, 14
BREW & FOOD
but once you find an appropriate amount, you usually don’t have to compensate for the addition in the recipe. If anything, the home chef can add a little sugar to the recipe to help it stay creamier. One recommendation was top on all the ice cream makers’ lists: use good craft beer. “You can’t make good beer ice cream from just any old beer — it needs to be flavorful and unique,” Fleischer says. “Take a trip down to your local craft beer spot and get a handle on some different flavor profiles. After that, it’s all about experimentation.”
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INTUITION ALE WORKS
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BEER ICE CREAM
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ON TAP june 2014
ONE NATION UNDER BEER
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