c e l e b r a t i o n n o v e m b e r ‘ 2 4 JZ I N E E d i t
J-ZINEEDIT
Editor-in-Chief
Jason Aarons
jason@jewelleryafrika.com / +27 74 400 6677
Business Development
Jenny Justus
jenny@jewelleryafrika.com / +27 83 450 6052
Advertising
Hilary Lazarus
hilary@jewelleryafrika com / +27 82 385 0913
Global Curator
Niyati Mendapara, Niyati.mendapara@gmail.com
Digital Marketing Partner
Lynne Wilson Digital Marketing
lynne@lynnewilson.co.za / +27 82 332 8290
Paralegal Alliance Partner
Diamdrey - Deborah Dreyer dreyer@mweb co za / +27 82 806 5226
Jewellery Afrika Membership Committee
Beth Forson (Chair), art@ebforson.co.za, +27 82 453 5155
Retha Minnie, dustdesigns r@gmail com, +27 64 669 7579
Jenny Justus
Jason Aarons
General Enquiries
hello@jewelleryafrika com / WhatsApp: +27 62 513 2431
J-ZINE Edit Free Subscriptions
jzine@jewelleryafrika.com
Hip hip hooray! It’s our first birthday. Find out what YOU said . . .
WIN! an exquisite rose goldplated, pearl pendant from Impilo Collection 10
Become a Jewellery Afrika member! All the info here!
‘Essence of Afrika’ - the changemakers. Meet African jewellery designers whose unique design ethos is changing the way jewellery is seen, worn and designed.
Beyond borders - in the world of jewellery, rings have long been a symbol of celebration, marking milestones and memories. Take a voyage to the Middle East. Celebrate and wear African.
Pegged for success. How a visionary artist transforms everyday materials into extraordinary craft jewellery. Discover the story
heJ-word
“It’sgotagroove,it'sgotameaning...
it’sthetime,istheplace,isthemotion isthewaywearefeeling”
I love Jewellery. I love publishing. I love Africa. I buy local. Mix all this together, give it a good shake, and viola - Jewellery Afrika.
Jewellery Afrika was born out of a shared passion with Jason (who by the way, loves all the same things I do), deciding to do what we love most. I was told that if you do something you love, you would never have to work a day in your life. That’s not true . . . we work, and we work hard to empower African Jewellers by introducing them to the world. However, we DO enjoy what we do. Every single day.
Having been in the Jewellery Industry since the 90’s, we noticed that an entire segment of the industry was largely ignored. No longer.
Our mission, to give these Jewellers a voice is slowly but surely paying off. We have met the most amazing people and been privy to a wealth of creativity . . . right here in Africa.
On this our first birthday, I would really like to thank all the people that helped make our dream a reality.
Through your support of our platforms and publications, we have managed to give back to those struggling to establish their own “footprint in Africa”.
I salute you all.
Like a young baobab stretching its first branches toward the sun, our magazine has flourished beyond our wildest dreams this past year.
There's a cherished African proverb that says, "The baobab tree does not apologise for its size" – and neither do we apologise for dreaming big when we launched this celebration of African jewellery artistry.
What started as a modest seed of an idea has blossomed into a vibrant community of designers, artisans, and African jewellery lovers across the continent – and beyond, and it’s been such a joy for Jenny and I to empower and showcase the spectacular diversity of our continent's talents, creativity and dedication.
Just like the mighty baobab which stands proud and unapologetic, taking up its rightful space in the savanna, we've carved out our own special corner in the jewellery publishing world.
To our loyal readers who've been with us since page one, our passionate contributors, and the incredible artisans who trust us with their stories – thank you for helping us grow our roots deep and strong. Here's to many more years of celebrating the sparkle, shine, and soul of African jewellery.
Trust me, we're just getting started!
Alexandrite - the chameleon of gemstones
Be smart and know what you're buying - and wearingwith a reputable and industry-recognised certification
Alexandrite, a rare and captivating gemstone, is renowned for its unique colour-changing property Discovered in the emerald mines of Russia in the 1830s, it was the first gem documented to exhibit this fascinating phenomenon and mesmerising transformation; and makes it a stunning choice for jewellery, adding a touch of magic and allure to any piece.
Why does alexandrite ‘change colour’? Well, it all has to do with the specific absorption spectrum created by traces of chromium and the way our eyes are designed to interpret it. When the light source used is a ‘daylight equivalent’, we see the alexandrite as blue-green. When an incandescent (candlelight) source is used, our eyes interpret the alexandrite as being red.
In Africa: Africa boasts several important sources of alexandrite, many of which are found within primary deposits also mined for emerald. These include the Lake Manyara deposits of Tanzania, the Novello deposit of Zimbabwe and the Mananjary deposits of Madagascar. However, the gem gravels of Ilakaka (Madagascar) and Tunduru (Tanzania) also contain alluvial alexandrite.
Symbolism: Its association with good fortune, love, and creativity adds to its allure, making it a symbol of elegance and mystique.
Ensure your alexandrites and other gemstones make the grade with EGL!
“Happy Birthday to Jewellery Afrika! It’s been an inspiring journey watching the platform elevate African and international jewellery, bringing their stories, talent and artistry to the global stage. As Amanqi, we ’ re proud to celebrate Jewellery Afrika's achievements and look forward to collaborating to showcase even more remarkable brands in the coming years. ” ~ Amanqi Consultancy, Dubai, UAE.
“Love the content, love the vibe, love the passion of Jewellery Afrika. ” ~ Brenda Rosenthal, Managing Director, E.G.L. South Africa.
“The MetCon team would like to congratulate to J-ZINE Edit on your first birthday! It’s inspiring to see a vibrant, Africacentric jewellery publication that celebrates our continent’s unique artistry and culture. Your colourful approach reflects the spirit of our nation and the beauty of African jewellery. Wishing you many more years of success and creativity!” ~ Charlotte Crosse, Public Relations Manager, Metal Concentrators SA (Pty) Ltd
"Congratulations to the Jewellery Afrika team on your 1st anniversary. You have done a terrific job creating a platform showcasing the incredible, but too frequently unrecognized, creative skills of African jewellery designers and manufacturers. Your monthly magazine informs and inspires! The Jewellery Afrika brand is sure to keep growing with the dedication and enthusiasm you all have.“ ~ Deon Smith, owner and founder, Deon Smith Jewellery.
what you said . . .
“Congratulations on making the brand Jewellery Afrika a success. We wish to see many more birthdays! This brand is not only focusing and supporting South African jewellers, but it also brings us closer to jewellers around Africa - to the world. A magazine and brand we much needed that covers all things jewellery. Keep up the good work and I can’t wait to see your growth and collaborations! “ ~ Isabel Bothma, CEO, Isa B Jewellery Designs.
“The Ilifa Collective is delighted to wish Jewellery Afrika and J-ZINE Edit a very happy birthday indeed! Both our brands and platforms tell and share stories of an Afrocentric nature, and serve as epicentres of African empowerment, innovation and style. We are proud we share a passion for showcasing African entrepreneurship and supporting the visionaries shaping the future. Congratulations on being ‘the essence of Africa’,” ~ Karin Vermeulen, Centre Destination Manager, Legacy Retail & Events Sandton.
Congratulations to Jewellery Afrika on an incredible year of celebrating African craftsmanship and design! Your dedication, commitment, and vision are noticed, so be proud! We look forward to seeing what the J-ZINE Edit team will feature in the year ahead!” ~ Lorna Lloyd, CEO, Jewellery Council of South Africa.
“Congrats Team Jewellery Afrika on your birthday! Wishing you many more years of fantastic creativity and pushing the boundaries on African designs and talent. Africa is blessed with loads of talent and we are sure you will not only add so much value to these creatives, but also uncover exciting new talent.” ~ Malcolm Jenner, Marketing and Administrative Director, Cape Precious Metals (CPM).
what you said . . .
“Building a successful small business requires passionate cheerleaders, mentors, and partners who truly care. We’ve found just that in the Jewellery Afrika team. Happy Birthday, Jewellery Afrika! May you continue to leave lasting footprints in the industry and inspire many more. Here’s to many more successful years ahead!” ~ Martie & Awie Potgieter, Bezalel.
“J-ZINE truly ZINGS! Propelled by the hugely innovative advent of J-ZINE, editor Jason Aarons has scored a huge win within the vibrant South African jewellery scenario! With his undeniable panache, African flair and a kaleidoscope of colour - coupled with editorial genius - he has elevated the status of local talent to a truly awesome level. Congratulations on your first twelve months.” ~ Michael Pryke, iKONYK Bijoux d’elegance.
“Happy 1st Birthday to J-ZINE Edit! We’re thrilled to be part of this milestone. Your dedication to showcasing African talent and fostering creativity is inspiring. We look forward to many more years of celebrating African design and innovation. Congratulations on your success!” ~ Nksinathi (Nathi) Hadebe, owner and founder, Nazo Accessories.
“When it comes to recognising crafters on the continent, Jewellery Afrika and J-ZINE Edit are tops! In most cases African inspired handcrafted jewellery (small businesses) across the continent are hardly ever recognised but Jewellery Afrika digs up these businesses and its motivation all the way (from social media to the interesting publications). From Tribal Knotz in South Africa, congratulations to the Jewellery Afrika team on clocking a year with the J-ZINE Edit.” ~ Safina Ohlson, owner and founder, Tribal Knotz.
“Congratulations to J-ZINE on the 1st anniversary publication! Your dedication to celebrating and promoting African jewellery craftsmanship is truly inspiring. Here’s to many more years of showcasing the beauty and artistry of South African jewellery. Wishing you continued growth and success. Happy Birthday!” ~ Vasani Ramesar, Office Manager: CEO’s Office, South African Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator.
Get 30% off one-of-a-kind, handmade jewellery on purchases made between 25 November and 10 December 2024, with nationwide courier options available.
As the year comes to a close, there's no better time to give the gift of something truly meaningful.
Our end-of-year sale celebrates the beauty of craftsmanship, local artistry, and the uniqueness of handmade treasures. Each jewellery piece is carefully crafted by Elizabeth B. Forson and is as unique as the person receiving it.
Whether you're looking for the perfect gift for a loved one or a timeless treat for yourself, our collection offers something special for an eclectic taste.
celebrate and win! an exquisite rose gold-plated, pearl pendant* worth R1200.00* from Impilo Collection
*pendant will be designed similar to the style shown here *estimated value
ImpiloCollectionisaluxuryjewellerybrand foundedbyaward-winningdesigner, entrepreneurandphilanthropistAngelaYeung.
“Impilo”isanisiZuluwordwhichmeans“life”. ThiswordwasspecificallychosenbyAngelato signifyboththeoriginofherwork,andthe inspirationshedrawsfromthereal-lifestories ofherclients.
Foundedin2005,ImpiloCollectionhas specialisedinthedesignandmanufactureof bespokejewellerycommissionsforprivate clients,jewellerytrading,andcontemporary artjewellerycollections.
jewellery afrika membership
Team Jewellery Afrika is thrilled to announce the launch of our membership programme which will enable members to enjoy a number of highly beneficial tangible rewards. To find out the full benefits and how to join, click HERE! Meet our membership programme partners . . .
DIAMDREY Paralegal Services
The company offers a wealth of experience from paralegal services, diamond and gold licences and permits + FICA compliance It provides comprehensive business support to a wide range of company directors, and managers of local and foreign owned companies as well as individuals requiring any of the services it offers
Contact: Deborah Dreyer dreyer.d@mweb.co.za / +27 82 806 5226
E.G.L. South Africa
South Africa’s trusted gemmological laboartory with more than 40 years of doing business in ZA, providing accurate and reliable diamond, gemstone and jewellery certification. E.G.L is equipped with both the knowledge and specialised equipment to detect treatments and laboratory-grown diamonds and gemstones
Contact: admin@egl co za
Tel: +27 11 334 4527
Cell & WhatsApp: +27 83 656 9013
Fax: +27 11 334 2193 www.egl.co.za
Africa
Jewellex Africa is the premier trade fair of the South African jewellery industry and is hosted annually by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA). One of the main objectives of Jewellex is to become the trading hub of Africa thereby offering international countries an opportunity to see what Africa has to offer under one roof. It further aims to provide a secure trade platform for product distribution into and out of Africa
Contact: Elsa da Silva
elsad@jewellewery org za / +27 11 484 5528 www.jewellery.org.za
Lynne Wilson Digital Marketing
A full service marketing company providing SEO, branding, and marketing strategies for small businesses, start-ups and entrepreneurs Services include strategic planning and execution, from creating SEO content, managing branding and marketing campaigns, to website development
Contact: Lynne Wilson
lynne@lynnewilson co za / +27 82 332 8290 www.lynnewilson.co.za
Northside South Africa
North Side South Africa has been trading since 2017. It has more than 25 years ’ experience in the diamond, gemstone and jewellery industry The company supplies all diamond and gemstone factory tools, consumables and accessories for the trade. Whether you ’ re a seasoned professional or just starting out in the trade, Northside’s years of experience will make all the difference.
Contact: sales@northsidediamondtools.co.za Tel: +27 11 334 4527 www.northsidediamondtools.co.za
O'Two (Cape Town)
A haven of understated elegance and panache, perfectly situated on Mouille Point’s trendy Platinum Mile Timeless, classic décor, king-size beds, bespoke amenities and a private balcony with unparalleled views, uniquely designed for relaxation in the most indulgent way possible
Contact: karla@onehydepark co za
Tel: +27 79 513 0287 www.otwo.co.za
One Hyde Park (Sandton)
Nestled in the heart of Sandton, One Hyde Park offers a sanctuary of elegance and modern luxury. This esteemed hotel blends contemporary design with exceptional service, creating an unparalleled experience for both business and leisure travellers
Contact: karla@onehydepark co za Tel: +27 79 513 0287 www.onehydepark.co.za
Want to become a Jewellery Afrika membership programme partner?
Contact Beth: +27 82 453 5155 Jenny: +27 83 450 6052
Jewellex
essenceofafrica
the changemakers
African jewellery designers whose unique design ethos is changing the way jewellery is seen, worn and designed.
essenceofafrica
Eth'nyk
The narrative
Eth’Nyk was born in July 2020 and it’s designs and adornments are inspired by its homeland, Côte d'Ivoire. Part of teh brand’s ethos is to be an original showcase for quality Afrochic jewellery which adapts to all styles and adornment choices.
Items are all handmade by young and talented African artisanslocated mainly in Côte d'Ivoire – as well as by brand founder, Anniella N.
Many of the pieces have typically African names chosen for their particular meanings with materials/finishes ranging from hammered bronze, gold-plating, bronze and glass beads, cowrie shells, leather, bone,
Akano Diamonds
The narrative
Akunna Nwala-Akano, founder of Lagos-based high-jewellery brand Akano Diamonds, draws deeply from her cultural heritage and lifelong perception within the transformative energy of jewels.
“Design and the rarity and high quality of gem stones are all the pieces to me. My love for diamonds stems from the sensation I get when I’m sporting them; one in all timeless magnificence, femininity and energy,” she told Wallpaper* in a September 2024 interview.
“Akano Diamonds’ recently released high-jewellery pieces came with the twin mandates of seducing clients and presenting the case for the renaissance of the jewellery landscape on the continent. 'Of course, I have experienced people assuming that high and fine jewellery coming out of Africa would not be up to standard, would be poorly made, would not be anything to reckon with, and it is always a pleasure to surprise.'
Visuals courtesy Akano Diamonds
essenceofafrica
Lady Moona
The narrative
Lady Moona is a Senegalese jewellery brand priding itself on the creation of standout ethical accessories which celebrate an authentically African identity and heritage. Pieces tell stories of African traditions and meanings, blending the traditional with the modern.
Handmade in bronze by local Senegalese artisans, Lady Moona wants to expand into an international space, competing with global jewellery brands. “Some of our creations are a combination of traditional and modern in order to offer the market unique and authentic models to compete with imported jewellery and redirect customers to consume locally,” says the brand “We encourage the artisanal value chain by setting up a collaboration with Senegalese jewellers and soon with those in the sub-region.”
Zulu Gal Retro
The narrative
ZuluGal Retro provides a platform of exposure and sustainable income generation opportunities to socio-economically marginalised creatives in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, through designing and production of handcrafted fashion accessories. It’s handmade fashion accessories are inspired by traditional Zulu crafts, African visual culture and contemporary modern-day fashion trends.
“Our artists and crafter groups produce unique competitive products which are sold at local and international market platforms,” says the brand. It is driven by the belief that the arts and craft industry has potential to significantly contribute towards economic empowerment and the improvement of socio-economic well-being of disadvantaged groups. This is one of the main principles informing the creation of its high-quality handmade art products.
Visuals courtesy Zulu Gal Retro
Visuals courtesy Lady Moona
Omina Otsieno
The narrative
Founded by Sylvia Omina, Omina Otsieno’s pieces are handcrafted in Busia and Nairobi.
“Every piece of our jewelry is unique and has a story: the weaves and twists of each piece are inspired by the culture of traditional handwoven basketry and lifestyle of the Marachi people in Busia. Every purchase of our jewellery is a step towards your contribution towards changing the world because our product is eco friendly, promotes sustainable traditional culture and social impact,” says the brand.
Through the work of her brand, Sylvia is focused on three main areas of sustainable development, which include gender equality, industry, innovation, and infrastructure, sustainable cities and communities.
essenceofafrica
K’tsobe
The narrative
K’tsobe was created by Sarah Legrand “ as a nod to my maternal clan ‘ABATSOBE’. The ‘ABATSOBE’ were the guardians of the seeds and the esoteric code of Rwanda,” she says. “After a great experience in the world of modeling, I came back to my childhood dream, my first ambition and trained in jewellery making at the Art and Crafts Institute in Brussels (Belgium). Through those exciting studies I created my brand K’tsobe.”
Sarah says her sources of inspiration come from her BelgianRwandan cultural mix, from her sensitivity, nature and the symbols of the different cultures seen during her travels around the world.
“By K'tsobe, my greatest desire is that these jewels follow you in your daily life. They reveal the uniqueness and emotions of the person who wears them, they are an expression of your personality.”
Visuals courtesy K tsobe
Visuals courtesy Omina Otsieno
essenceofafrica
Beloved Beadwork
The narrative
“Beloved was founded out of a love of beads, and a desire to explore their creative and expressive potential,” writes founding designer Anna.
The brand began in 2009 operating from two shipping containers at Montebello Design Centre in Cape Town, South Africa - one a studio, the other a shop. 15 Years later, it is based at The Watershed, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town. “This was an absolute game changer for us, ” says Anna. “In addition to our retail spaces, we also wholesale to shops and galleries at home and all over the world “
Originally working as a product developer for other organisations, Anna could see some unmet potential and a gap in the market for beadwork which used the highest quality of beads, and fully explored the deep skills of beadweavers.
African Baroque
The narrative
“If you ’ re one of those rare people with an eye for seriously creative design and fabulously eclectic cultural fusion you ’ ve come to the right place,” says Colleen, owner, designer and creator of African Baroque textile jewellery - exquisitely handcrafted African beads and vibrant textiles.
“Here you will find the magical things I have recently made. Inspired by colours, textures and whymsical found objects. Expect the unexpected”.
Colleen also uses lots of authentic, colourful South African Shweshwe fabric to make her jewellery She combines this with raw silk, African waxprint and pure linen as well as found fabrics creating an eclectic culture mix that is powerful and texturally rich.
Visuals courtesy African Baroque
middleeast beyondborders
Nijma M Fine Jewelry, The Up Tennis Necklace
YOURA, Ruby Heart Pendant
La Marquise Jewellery, Artisan Bangle
HASHI, Cherished Knot Ring
FHK by Style Gallery, November Birth Thread
The Bleu Concept, Reflection of Light Ring
joubijoux, Masquerade Earrings
beyondborders middleeast
In this special birthday issue, Jewellery Afrika showcases pieces that truly embody the spirit of celebration.
Among the curated selections is FHK by Style Gallery’s November Birth Thread Ring—a piece crafted with November's birthstone, citrine, while YOURA’s Ruby Heart Pendant is a stunning piece that captures the passion and warmth of true celebration.
Each piece in this selection marks a moment to remember, designed to honour the milestones that shape us.
Y b
Beenish Mahmood, Yasmine Cuff
STONE Fine Jewelry, Pink Sapphire Earrings
celebrateandwearAfrican...
When you adorn yourself with Africaninspired jewellery, you're wearing more than beads, metals, and stones – you're carrying forward centuries of artistic tradition and cultural storytelling. Each piece represents not only its creator's personal journey but also the rich heritage which influences every design choice and technique.
Behind each intricately beaded necklace lies countless hours of perfecting traditional patterns, understanding colour harmonies which speak of specific regions and traditions, and mastering techniques passed down through generations. Those striking brass cuffs embody numerous failed attempts at achieving the perfect patina that mimics ancient trade beads. The perfectly balanced wooden elements tell tales of careful selection and patient carving until the grain sings with the right resonance.
African-inspired jewellery designers often spend years studying traditional techniques while finding ways to marry them with contemporary aesthetics. That stunning mixed-media pendant might represent a journey of discovery – learning how different tribes historically worked with materials,
understanding the symbolic meaning of particular patterns, and thoughtfully incorporating these elements into modern pieces which honour their origins.
Their studios are sanctuaries of cultural preservation and artistic innovation, with shelves lined with books about African jewellery and art history, collections of authentic beads for reference, and drawers full of experiments in combining traditional materials with modern findings. Each finished piece emerges from this creative laboratory as a testament to both heritage and innovation.
Every piece holds within it countless moments of revelation: when a traditional technique finally clicks, when a contemporary twist enhances rather than diminishes the cultural essence, when the perfect balance between old and new emerges. These jewellers pour not just their creativity but their deep respect for African artistic traditions into each creation, making every piece a bridge between past and present.
Ohiri
Shekudo
Adele Dejak
Ami Doshi Shah
Peggedforsuccess
Iets’ene Designs, founded by visionary artist Neo Seletisha, transforms everyday materials into extraordinary craft jewellery which sparks creativity and celebrates individual expression. Each piece can be customised to reflect the wearer's unique style and personality.
Neo's artistic journey began in 2015 with an unexpected muse: the humble peg spring. By reimagining these commonplace laundry items, he creates bold, sculptural pieces that challenge conventional jewellery design.
His artistic vision extends beyond springs to encompass an eclectic mix of materialsvibrant beads, textured wool, supple leather, metallic wire, and flowing fabric - all crafted into statement pieces which command attention.
From dramatic earrings and distinctive chokers to innovative 3D installations, Neo's work transcends traditional boundaries between jewellery and art.
His commitment to sustainability shines through his community engagement, where he partners with NGOs to lead workshops teaching creative upcycling techniques, inspiring others to see the artistic potential in the overlooked and ordinary.
Design visuals: iets’ene designs
Visual:
han Atelier, Bold Ring
Baguette Design, Baguette Ring
TRYYST, Wrap Around Tusker Ring
ZOME, Nebula Ring
beyondborders middleeast
Charmaleena, 28 Ring
ELURA, Celestial Gem Ring
Khayal Fine Jewelry, Ruby Muse Ring
Kaltham's Pavilion, Queen of Hearts Ring
Amwaj Jewellery, Eclipse Full Moon Ring
La Graine Fine Jewellery, Everbloom Emerald Ring
Redefiningcultureandidentity:asurvey ofSouthAfricanartjewellery
byNinaNewman
“My artistic intent is to reclaim and celebrate indigenous narratives by blending Zulu heritage with ancient Greek symbolism, using sustainable materials and recycled jewellery to empower, while also immortalizing Zulu women through living sculptures.” | Khanya Mthethwa, Echoes of the Past, 2023, rings, gold-plated silver, model: artist, photo: tomsaycheez
This work was crowned the overall winner of the 2019 South African Contemporary Jewellery Awards exhibition It endeavors to comment on the influence of tenacious societal norms on female subjectivity. | Marlene de Beer, Finger Tips, 2019, sterling silver, cotton, each 0.8 x 0.6 inches (20 x 15 mm), photo: Chris de Beer
Errico Cassar notes the following about his work: “I am influenced by the Baroque era and make work that is mostly geometric and symmetrical but throws off balance by introducing other elements in the design.” |
Errico Cassar, Carousel, 2023, ring, silver, rubies, vermeil, ruthenium, 1.3 x 1.4 x 0.9 inches (33 x 35 x 23 mm), photo: artist
This collection showcases a diverse range of contemporary jewelry artists from South Africa, each with a unique perspective and creative approach to their work.
From Carine Terreblanche’s reinterpretation of inherited jewellery symbols to Beverley Price’s fusion of indigenous culture with Western jewellery techniques, these artists explore themes of identity, cultural heritage, and societal norms through their jewellery. Geraldine Fenn’s Beads for Power Series and Eric Loubser’s satirical Art Jewellery series provoke thought and commentary on societal issues within the jewellery context. The artists also explore the use of various materials, ranging from traditional glass seed beads, applied in the neckpiece by Samantha Vincent, to the experimentation of waste materials from Chris de Beer. Included in this photo essay is the work of students from various South African higher education institutions to showcase their work and represent emerging talent
Beverley Price describes her piece as “ a post-Apartheid very large, cultural hybrid adornment object, replacing the traditional indigenous beadwork with my Western jewellery skills and enameling. It is the largest adornment object in the Ndebele culture, which is the reason I chose to appropriate the form in my 'hybridity' work (in opposition to [the] Western jewellery convention of small jewellery objects/commercial jewelry) ” Each of the copper sections is individually torch-fired and wire-bound. | Beverley Price, Linaga: An Ndebele-Culture Wedding Cape, 2007, individually torch-fired and wire-bound copper-foil platelets, copper wire, vitreous flux enamel, 59.6 x 39.4 inches (1.5 x 1 m), Collection of Barbara and Jonny Buntman, Cape Town, South Africa, photo: artist
Songezo Baleni draws inspiration from his Zulu heritage and applies traditional grass-weaving techniques to precious metals to make very original and contemporary jewellery pieces. Baleni believes inspiration can be found anywhere and everywhere in buildings, in stones, in contrasts, and in the work of other jewellers. In this photo, you see a silver bangle he made atop the bangles, made with Ilala grass woven in a round ox whip stitch, that inspired it. | Songezo Baleni, Round Ox Whip Bangle, 2012, bangle, sterling silver wire, woven, photo: artist
“
In my work,” says Joani Groenewald, “I aim to promote moments of contemplation; in this piece I reflect back to my childhood home as a place of attachment, and how the memory of that place can become internalized through intimate objects, such as jewellery. Such personal memories also have the ability to speak to larger sociopolitical concerns regarding land, ownership, and belonging, in a current South African context.” | Joani Groenewald, Time Capsule, 2020, neckpiece, glass, sand, silver, resin, 1 x 2.2 x 1.2 inches (25 x 55 x 30 mm), photo: artist
“In the collection Colours of Bureaucracy,” says Samantha Vincent, “I explore the intrica of bureaucracy, a ubiquitous presence that weaves throug daily life and greatly influenc society. Through the interpla beadwork, color, and idiomat expressions, I explore the complexities of bureaucracy. employ the motif of red tape historically tied to official documents, to symbolize the excessive and convoluted bureaucratic procedures that ensnare individuals and hinder progress The red tape becomes a tangible representation of the bureaucratic entanglements we encounter ” | Samantha Vincent, Red Tape, 2023, neckpiece, glass seed beads, polyethylene thread, 16.1 x 3.2 x 1.2 inches (410 x 80 x 30 mm), photo: artist
Marchand van Tonder based this pendant, along with other pieces in this series, on African masks | Marchand van Tonder, Untitled, 2015, pendant, sterling silver, 18-karat yellow gold, diamonds, 2.7 x 1.5 x 0.4 inches (68 x 38 x 9 mm), photo: Sarah de Pina
Katja Chicken’s final-year graduate exhibition at the Ruth Prowse School of Art explores the theme “iconoclastic reinterpretation of jewellery.” This work, Wood You Dare?, reinterprets a traditional style of earring with a setting in an alternative material wood realized using various techniques to carve the material into the desired shapes Chicken’s title cleverly plays on the use of wood as material and the homophones "wood/would" to pose a question to both the maker and the wearer, as participants in the dare(ing) to make and the dare(ing) to wear the delicate pieces. | Katja Chicken, Wood You Dare?, 2023, earrings, imbuia wood, citrine, approx. 1 x 0.4 inches (25 x 10 mm), photo: artist
“The Beads for Power Series is about the unequal power relations between the colonisers and [the] colonized in Africa, exemplified by the trade of glass beads for gold, ivory, and even slaves,” notes Geraldine Fenn. “I used elaborate portrait jewels of kings and queens of Europe from the Renaissance period as a basis for these pieces and reinterpreted them as roughly scratched renderings with glass trade beads replacing the original precious stones, as a way of drawing attention to that imbalance of power Many of the materials used to make those opulent jewels, and specimens filling European cabinets of curiosity, were acquired in the colonies in dubious circumstances.” | Geraldine Fenn, Beads for Power Series: Ruffle/Yoke, 2020, necklace, silver, vintage African glass trade beads, glass seed beads, silk thread, 2 x 0.6 x 15.8 inches (50 x 15 x 400 mm), photo: Sarah de Pina
David Ditlhako, a University of Johannesburg student, explains that “the purpose of my Advanced Diploma study is to ultimately come up with jewellery souvenirs that have a traditional look, yet are also elegant to meet the niche tourist market that exists in Botswana
The main aim is to convey Tswana myths, stories, and culture through the Ngwaketse the sub-culture of the Tshwana I belong to ” | David Ditlhako, Letlapa la Botswana, 2023, neckpiece, brass, leather, Botswana agate, photo: artist
As a proud Sotho-speaking South African man, I pride myself in the fact that animals make up part of our identity in the form of our clan names. This piece is a representation of that,” notes Thato Radebe. | Thato Radebe, Pere (Ya Monna wa MoSotho) (Sotho Man’s Horse), 2021, neckpiece, sterling silver, 3 x 2 x 0.4 inches (75 x 50 x 9 mm), photo: artist
Central University of Technology student Jan Mattheus Strauss explored the use of micarta, a material usually used in knife handles, as an alternative material in his work | Jan Mattheus Strauss, Micarta Range, 2022, necklace and earrings, sterling silver, micarta composite, photo: Eric Holmes
“I have always been fascinated by biomimicry and I decided to use my passion for plants and handmade jewellery to explore the concept in a very basic way, ” explains Liz Loubser. “I tried to copy the plant exactly and it became a very intimate process of really getting to know what I am working with in terms of the plant and my material ” | Liz Loubser, Rice Cactus Rhipsalis
Cereuscula, 2022, brooch, sterling silver, pearl, model paint, 3.4 x 1.6 inches (85 x 40 mm), photo: Sarah de Pina
Eric Loubser explains: “This neckpiece is from a satirical series called ‘Art Jewellery,’ where I used phrases or comments made by people in a fine art context and used them as the starting point for a collection of necklaces using canvases as the centerpieces, that can be viewed as fine art or jewelry, and which are meant to provoke debate about the nature of art jewellery. ‘Why is it so expensive?’ is a common question asked of fine art and jewelry alike, and I covered the canvas with 24-karat gold leaf to make the answer quite obvious ” | Eric Loubser, Why Is It So Expensive?, 2022, neckpiece, vintage African trade beads, silver, aluminum frame with wood veneer, Belgian linen canvas, 22-karat gold leaf, 8.3 x 5.3 x 1.6 inches (210 x 135 x 40 mm), photo: Sarah de Pina
Ayanda Qwabe, a Durban University of Technology student, explains that she creates narrative jewellery rooted in the historical, cultural, and religious heritage of Africans, especially the AmaZulu tribe. Her work incorporates their beliefs, rituals, and culture “My jewelry is based on sculptures, 3D printing, and beadwork,” she says. “It draws most of its inspiration from vintage and antique jewellery. The pieces I create represent life events that have played a significant role in my life The cow necklace embodies the teachings my mother imparted when I experienced my first period, emphasizing the importance of carrying one's virginity with pride.” | Ayanda Qwabe, Untitled, neckpiece, gilding metal, glass seed beads, nylon thread, photo: Samantha Vincent
A University of Stellenbosch student, Bongani Mashange notes the following: “Having been influenced by both traditional and modern culture, this piece represents my personal identifications and cultural influences to illustrate my fluid identity ” The brooch’s title comes from the Ndebele/Nguni word Sisonke, meaning togetherness, unity | Bongani Mashange, Sonke, 2021, brooch, African black wood, padauk, resin, sterling silver, 3 4 x 2 4 x 0.4 inches (85 x 60 x 10 mm), photo: Joani Groenewald
“I used pieces of the leinherited from my mother and grandmother," says Carine Terreblanche, "to recontextualize these problematic symbols of colonial status in a troubled present where the love and longing for heirlooms of the past is also a confrontation with the ghosts of historical injustice, displacement, and structural violence.” | Carine Terreblanche, Heirless Heirloom/Erfstuk sonder Erfgenaam, 2022, brooch, porcelain, silver, brass, coral, carnelian, glass, plastic, 2.4 x 3.4 x 0.6 inches (60 x 85 x 15 mm), photo: Joani Groenewald
“I turn to creative jewellery practice as a means to situate my position as a South African Islamic/feminist and to engage creatively with familiar mediums as a means to re-create and reimagine the complex life stories of Muslim women, ” states Mariambibi Khan. | Mariambibi Khan, Basket 2.0, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, coated copper and steel, 2.8 x 2 x 1.6 inches (70 x 50 x 40 mm), photo: Joani Groenewald
Athini Bhekebhu, a Cape Peninsula University of Technology student, explains that these rings are inspired by architecture and are meant to be worn as a set “I decided to make these rings a set because the building that I got inspired from is a round structure. The round building became the shank in the style of a signet ring. I then decided to split the ring in half to make it two rings, to show the bricks' texture inside ” | Athini Bhekebhu, Palace of Culture, 2023, rings, sterling silver, photo: artist
“This piece is an award to the South African government for ignoring the Khoi and the San people’s birthright as the First Nation, [because] their language is still not recognized as one of the official languages of South Africa,” explains Thabang Mamabolo, a student at the Tshwane University of Technology. This despite years of a sit-in by their chief at the Union Buildings, the official seat of the South African government, which also houses the offices of the President of South Africa. | Thabang Mamabolo, Finding Home: A Life-Long Journey, 2022, brooch, sterling silver, fine silver, ostrich eggshell, baroque pearl, copper, 4 x 1.6 inches (100 x 40 mm), photo: artist
“An exploration into new materials and relationships; seemingly simple, but alas, new directions introduce new problems!” explains Chris de Beer. | Chris de Beer, Charmed, 2020, necklace, plastic (HDPE), sewing cotton, red cotton, 1.6 x 2.4 x 0.3 inches (40 x 60 x 8 mm), photo: artist
Nina Newman has been a full-time lecturer in the Jewellery Design and Manufacturing Programme at the Tshwane University of Technology since 2000. As an award-winning jewelry designer and practitioner, she has showcased her work in various local galleries and exhibitions Her passion for indigenous flora is a recurring theme in her designs, where she employs the enameling technique which was the central focus of her master's studies. Currently, Newman is pursuing a doctorate in the South African contemporary jewelry field Her other research interests include the jewelry design process, and the ethics relating to commercial jewelry design. Newman is also a committee member of the Design Educators’ Forum of South Africa. She is based in Pretoria.
This article originally published on Art Jewelry Forum (AJF) on 01/08/2024, Redefining Culture and Identity. A Survey of South African Art Jewelry. Reprinted with permission.
Nina Newman
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