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DECEMBER DECEMBER 16, 16, 2021 2021 || The The Jewish Jewish Home Home
The Wandering
Jew
New Orleans By Hershel Lieber
I
was always intrigued by New Orleans, its French and Spanish history, and its unique culture. Yet, I hesitated to go there because of its reputation for overindulgence and vulgarity. Finally, my curiosity won over my objections, and a few years ago, we took the plunge. We set boundaries for ourselves which would make the trip morally appropriate, and off we went. We flew into Mobile, Alabama, on Sunday, November 13, 2011, and spent the afternoon touring the city and the next day strolling in the famed Bellingrath Gardens. On Tuesday, we took an excursion on a fishing boat watching and learning from the fishermen who were trawling shrimp onto the boat from the Gulf of Mexico near Gulfport, Mississippi. We continued on to Biloxi, where we took a bus tour which included Beauvoir, the home of Jefferson Davis, the president of the Confederate States. Then we continued for under two hours to New Orleans. We drove into the most famous city in Louisiana during the evening, passed by the humongous, illuminat-
The SS Alabama in Mobile Bay
Catching fish in Gulfport
ed Superdome, and settled in at the cozy Queen Anne B & B in the Garden District. We unpacked and headed straight to the Casablanca Restaurant across the Mississippi River in Metairie. The Moroccan food and the serene atmosphere were so appealing
that we lingered on and relaxed there for quite a while. We only began to appreciate the Garden District the next day. We spent over three hours marveling at the beautifully restored homes, most of them dating back 100 to 150 years. We were guided by a tour book which pointed out the most important houses and their history. The street lined with massive shady oaks added to the aura of Southern elegance. Another feature which took us back to the romantic Victorian Period was the Charles Street Streetcar. Besides the one in San Francisco, this is the only one left from a bygone era and is over a hundred years old. We traveled up and down the street a number of times during our stay and always enjoyed the experience. The streetcar runs along a graceful boulevard, where the mansions of the wealthy and politically connected reside. The city’s universities and museums all occupy prominent address-
es on this concourse. That evening, we ate at the kosher Cajun Restaurant which served local specialties, many which were tastefully spiced. We dedicated the next day to the famous French Quarter. This is where jazz reigns supreme, and the sounds of the sax accompanied us throughout the day. From street corner musicians playing for some change to the performers at the restaurants and clubs, you are always surrounded by the beat and the tempo. We walked alongside the Mississippi River, watching the paddlewheel riverboats depart, billowing a trail of white smoke. We explored the French Market with its array of Cajun food and spices and then headed for a professional guided tour. The tour guide was excellent. During his over-two-hour tour, we learned so much of the city’s history and culture. The Spanish influence is evident in the wrought iron balconies and the architectural styles of the buildings. The French left their imprint by way of the local Cajun lan-
French Quarter balconies in New Orleans
