COFFEE

GEARING UP FOR A GREAT CUP

An overview of essential coffee equipment for unique personalities, tastes, and brew methods

BY: TUVIA MACKAY

Our last installment of the Mochers Magazine coffee section covered a range of coffee brew methods, from pour over to espresso.

I hope you’ve had the opportunity to get out there, sample cups at your favorite cafés, and discover what styles suit you best. Personally, I like to match my coffee to my mood, the foods I’m enjoying my cup with, and yes, the weather. On hurried mornings, I’ll have a quick espresso before hitting the gym; on lazy Sunday afternoons, I’ll chill with a tall cup of single-origin pour over; and on hot summer days, I can’t resist a good cold brew to cool me down and keep me going.

However, if we learned anything from the last article, we know that drinking coffee is only a part of the enjoyment. The full experience comes from sourcing great beans, getting your hands dirty in the brewing process, and of course, sharing with friends and family. In this installation, we’ll cover some essential recommended gear, fit for the most discerning Mocher and tested by yours truly, to match coffee styles for every mood and occasion.

GRINDER: Baratza Virtouso+. High-quality grinders aren’t just for your favorite, ahem, besomim. They also ensure that your coffee tastes fresh, vibrant, and retains its best qualities. Buy your beans whole, store them in an airtight container, and grind just before use for best results. Burr grinders are always the way to go. They are essentially small mills that crush your beans to a fine and consistent size, unlike blade grinders which will heat your beans as they slice, burning away those precious oils that coat the bean and detracting from the flavor. The Baratza Virtuoso+ is super easy to use, with 40 grind sizes from coarse cold brew all the way down to the finest espresso. The machine’s time settings allow you to dial in for the perfect quantity every time. It’s also super easy to clean, which is critical to keeping your grinder shmutz free. (Retail price: $249) POUR OVER: Pure Over. As simple as pour over is, there are still so many different setups on the market. Yet even in this crowded space, the Pure Over stands head and shoulders above the competition. A sleek, self-contained, all-glass system, the Pure Over is easy to use, beautiful to look at, and creates a crisp and clean cup that elevates your bean’s best qualities. There’s no metal filter to impart a funky taste and no paper filters that you’ll inevitably run out of at the worst possible time. (Retail price: $75 for the complete kit, available exclusively at pureover.com)

ESPRESSO: Breville Bambino. Breville has long been one of the masters of espresso machines for serious home baristas. While we will cover the full range of at-home espresso machines in a future installation, the Bambino is a no-brainer for those getting started who value serious performance and unparalleled taste. This machine is the ultimate uncomplicated and compact device for those looking for incredible espresso-based drinks without the worry of a more complex piece of equipment. It comes with a built-in frothing wand for steaming milk for cappuccinos and lattes. The Bambino’s competitive price point is another plus for those who don’t want to dive into a more complex machine just yet. (Retail price: $299)

Tuvia Mackay is a multidisciplinary connoisseur and all-around faynshmeker. His love of coffee started in earnest when he discovered a micro-roastery near his yeshiva and developed through numerous tastings and classes thereafter. These days, you can find Tuvia pulling espresso shots on his Lelit Bianca or walking Zeidy, his French bulldog. Tuvia can be reached for questions, comments, or inquiries on all things coffee at mocherscoffee@gmail.com.

Kosher Guru’s Journey to Morocco

A Warm Welcome to Jewish Visitors

BY: GABRIEL BOXER

My crazy Moroccan adventure during the pandemic was everything I thought it would be and much more. On a Sunday morning in February, with a sprinkling of snow in New York, Rebeka and I were checked into our flight by a courteous representative from Royal Air Maroc (RAM). hotel, Sofitel Jardin des Roses. Almost immediately we were whisked off to enjoy the sights of the city.

The plane was sleek and sanitized, the staff above and beyond. Warm Moroccan hospitality was evident the moment we took our seats. We were greeted by the onboard staff who made sure our flight was comfortable and enjoyable. The lay-flat first class section was one of the most comfortable sections I have ever been in. They provided not only stellar service, but kosher food as well. After we landed, we were greeted by Hamid Aberaouz of the Ministry of Tourism, our “protector” for the week. We drove to Rabat, the capital, and checked into our First was the oldest hotel in Rabat, called Tour Hassan. Its traditional Moroccan decor was evident, with all modern amenities. Many celebrities are known to stay here. In fact, there’s a hall dedicated to their photographs. We had an excellent tea experience, the first of many! Our tour guide took us to the Mellah, the ancient Jewish quarter located in almost every medina (Old City). We saw the facade of an old shul, the homes that used to belong to Jewish families, and the streets named after prominent Jewish people.

We went to see the Tower of Hassan, which would have been the highest tower in the city but was never completed. Next door is the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V and his two sons. A walk through Kasbah Des Oudayas led to stunning views of two cities and the shore. Throughout our tour we were impressed how clean Rabat is, and how much pride the people have in their culture. Early the next morning we set off for the city of Fez. We were in for a real treat, starting with Riad El Amine, the hotel EDITORIAL NOTE where we stayed for the day. Fez is known for their riad (garden)

As a result of the Abraham Accords in the fall of 2020, whereby four accommodation. Many homes

Muslim nations established cordial relations with the state of Israel, in the medinas have a beautiful the government of Morocco invited Kosher Guru as a royal guest garden at the center of their with the aim of opening the kingdom to Jewish travelers homes, with the rooms of the home surrounding it. In Fez many of these homes have been turned into lodging accommodations with modern amenities. Some even have pools, spas and other luxurious facilities for the guests. Staying at a riad you experience the warm hospitable culture of Morocco. Fez is known for the artisans who use old

school methods to create a multitude of products. Many are taught a trade by their ancestors, some dating back to the 12th century. You never know what you will find behind closed doors.

Our visit to Riad Palais Amani was a treat. Around the spectacular garden were unassuming doors that led to beautiful guest rooms with accommodations for about 30 people. On the rooftop there is a cooking school with stunning views of the medina of Fez.

After a bite to eat, we were on the winding streets of the medina. After a few short steps we went up the stairs of a building that contained handcrafted leather goods. I had no idea where our guide was taking us, but we kept on walking through different rooms until we came to a porch with the coolest view and worst smell I’ve ever experienced in my life.

Off the porch was a full view of the Chouara Tannery of Fez, which dates back to the 12th century. Although super odorous from the use of animal feces and urine to soften the leather and remove the hairs of the animal, it was a sight not to be missed. It looks like a huge display of watercolors and it’s amazing that it’s still in use after 1,000 years. Here they color and soften the leather to prepare it to make shoes, bags, jackets, and other colorful leather goods.

A walk through the souk brought us to the many artisans working and selling their crafts. We saw woodworkers, coppersmiths, wool and yarn dyers using natural dyes, tapestry makers, women making traditional Moroccan delights, pottery, handcrafted metal works, blacksmiths and shoemakers. The level of craft was incredible, with skills passed from generation to generation. After a long day, we went to the top of a mountain to view the entire medina at sunset and grab some amazing pictures of the sights of Fez. As a treat before the COVID curfew, we had the opportunity to check out a modern hotel just outside of the medina of Fez. The Sahrai hotel has such a cool young vibe and amazing architecture — very modern yet with subtle Moroccan flair. After a long day, we were happy to get back to our traditional accommodations for some shut eye before the next day’s adventures. We woke up early for breakfast in our riad, then headed out to the Fez mosaic and pottery factory. It’s all handmade, handpainted and sold the way the craftsman’s father taught him. It was amazing to see how the fountains were poured and the tiles made to create the amazing Moroccan mosaics you see in so many buildings.

The King’s palace in Fez is right next to the Mellah, the Jewish quarter. There sits a synagogue with traditional Moroccan lanterns and mikvah, all from the 18th century. As the Jewish sights and synagogues are under the protection of the king, there were guards everywhere. Most Jewish quarters in Morocco also have Jewish cemeteries attached. It’s remarkable to see our ancient culture and heritage still extant. We inspected the communal bakery ovens, where even to this day a Jewish shamash lights the fire, symbolizing the Jews and Muslims who live in peace together.

I was proud to be Jewish in Morocco. Throughout our visit we were called “brother” and “cousin.” People were happy to see us walking around the streets of Morocco with a yarmulke.

We went to visit Riad Myra, run exclusively by women. As the owner explained, women are the ones who run a traditional Moroccan home and can operate a riad better than anyone. So in Riad Myra women cook, serve, and handle all aspects of a traditional riad.

From there we went to see the house of Rambam, where he taught and learned. It was a special feeling to be able to walk in the same streets where the great Rambam spent a great portion of his life.

Throughout our trip every guide was quick to tell us how Morocco was considered a Berber and Jewish site before it became the Muslim country that it is today. Morocco stresses a love for all people regardless of faith. Most Moroccans we spoke to said they are Moroccan first and their religion is second. It was an incredibly special place to be with all the chaos and antisemitism in our world today.

A break in our riad after a long day was much appreciated, where we took advantage of the amazing decor to grab some pictures before heading out to visit Riad Karawan.

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This riad was nestled deep in the streets of the medina and we needed an escort to take us there so we wouldn’t get lost. Behind these closed doors was a stunning modern riad. Every room was different and beautiful and portrayed the owner’s lust for travel and adventure.

In Rabat we were shown another riad called Dar el Kabira Salam that was situated in the medina. Although the riad was older, the views from the rooftop were dazzling, and the hospitality was above and beyond.

JOURNEY TO MARRAKECH

On our way to the city of Marrakech we enjoyed the breathtaking countryside. The flocks of sheep made for a pretty sight. We drove a few miles along the forest of cork trees which Morocco is known for. It was just a pretty journey heading into the desert where Marrakech is located. Upon arrival at the Pearl Hotel, we were shown the most heartfelt warmth from the entire staff. The hotel boasts three pools, an incredible spa which I highly recommend checking out, and the coolest rooftop circular bar that was enjoyed by locals as well as hotel guests. Our suite was extraordinary, from the decor to every modern amenity one can ask for. We enjoyed dinner on the rooftop that overlooks the walls of the medina of Marrakech; it was only a tease of the days that were to follow.

Our day started super early with a visit to the Yves Saint Laurent museum, next door to the Majorelle Garden where YSL had his home. Many of his fashion inspirations came from Marrakech. The museum was dedicated to his fashion over the years and was interesting to see. However, the gardens were the highlight, with the colors, fountains and beautiful foliage you cannot help but fall in love with. The shocking blue villa of YSL is now a museum dedicated to the history of Berber culture. There are artifacts of the history of Morocco with its Berber, Jewish and Islamic influences.

We went into the medina of Marrakech to another museum called Dar el Bacha, which was originally a palace owned by a wealthy Moroccan family. Dar el Bacha now houses a museum of Moroccan culture with a popular coffee shop. The rooms with the mosaics were enthralling and the garden with the orange trees spectacular. The museum displays artifacts from the religious cultures that helped shape Morocco today. I especially enjoyed seeing such exhibits as the Torahs, tefillin and tallit bags as well as traditional clothing of Moroccan Jews.

We then went to the Dar el Said Museum, originally a palace owned by a wealthy family. It is known as the museum of weaving. We learned about Berber and Muslim rugs and the culture of rugs for the Moroccan people. In Moroccan culture rugs gain value with age, and a rug is seen as an investment.

In the medina of Marrakech there is a restaurant owned by Che Moha. He is wellknown in the country, and has been a top chef in the U.S. After watching a cooking demo at his beautiful restaurant, we spoke to him about opening a kosher spot in New York.

SHABBOS IN MARRAKECH

On Friday we needed to get back to our hotel for Shabbos. What better way to prepare other than a traditional Moroccan hammam and a massage at The Pearl Hotel. It was an experience I will never forget. I can’t wait to return to Morocco for more pampering. The spa at the Pearl was incredible. It was complete with both a men’s and women’s area for hammam, and another area for a private hammam. We went to the private hammam which contained saunas, hot tubs, and traditional stone tables where your skin is cleaned and scrubbed. Something tells me these weren’t the typical hammams in the streets of the medina, but this was more my cup of tea. My skin felt so refreshing after being scrubbed and cleaned, and the relaxing massage just did the trick to help me set the mood for Shabbos.

We made sure to order Shabbos food to be delivered to our hotel. We called the kosher restaurant Dar Ima, which was closed during our stay, but managed to coax the owner to deliver Shabbos complete with challah, wine, traditional Moroccan salads, fish, and meat.

Thank you to the Pearl Hotel for the incredible suite where we were able to enjoy welcoming Shabbos. We decided to take walking tours so we could enjoy Marrakech and Shabbos at the same time. After we davened and tasted some of the Moroccan salads from Dar Ima, we walked from our hotel into the streets of the medina and around Koutoubia Mosque and its gardens, the largest mosque in Marrakech, located near Jemaa el-Fna Square. We were told more than 20,000 Muslims come to pray during Ramadan. If you cannot get a spot inside, the outdoor area has pillars to pray.

On to the mellah, the Jewish quarter, to the synagogue Al Azama. It is a courtyard that contains a beautiful blue and white decorated synagogue, with a women’s section up a flight of stairs. It also has a Talmud Torah and a soup kitchen. The synagogue is no longer in use on Shabbos; there is another shul outside of the old medina, where more Jews live today.

A few minutes got us to the old cemetery. We did not go in, but were told it’s one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Morocco. We passed by a carpet store that used to be an old synagogue and walked along the surrounding streets of Jemaa el-Fna, which is the main square in Marrakech. As in Fez, there were artisans selling their handmade goods.

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The Jewish community of Marrakech no longer resides within the mellah of Marrakech, but Jewish history and couture are still preserved by order of the king. Throughout our visit we were greeted in the streets with “shalom aleichem” and “welcome my brother.” Marrakech’s history, culture, and atmosphere is remarkable.

A NIGHT IN THE DESERT

The next day, we decided to buy some souvenirs for the little ones at home, so we went straight to the souk. After some back and forth, I ended up with enough goods that I needed to procure a new suitcase. Then we started our drive into the desert toward Agafay, 45 minutes from Marrakech. I was told we would be spending the night camping. The camping sight was called the White Camel Lodge. It wasn’t just camping, rather “glamping.” The White Camel Lodge is a stunning resort located in the middle of the desert, with solitary views of sandy hills on the far horizon. The owner talked to us about putting in a kosher kitchen and was excited for Jewish tourism to come for his accommodations. He ordered kosher food for us, and even served us on brand new dishes he kept in the original cartons. Of course, we partook in some of the adventures the glamping site had to offer, including ATV tours and a sunset camel ride. Our “tent” was not a simple tent. It was an extravagant oasis with private showers, bathrooms, modern amenities, and of course, air conditioning for the day and heat for the night when it gets quite chilly. We watched the jaw-dropping sunset over the infinity pool and enjoyed a delicious dinner in one of the common areas of the resort. If this is what camping is like, sign me up for next year!

ESSAOUIRA

I woke up and saw the sun wasn’t quite up yet, so I decided to daven right outside my “tent” and watch the sunrise. It was such a special treat to be able to daven in such a setting. After breakfast we headed to Essaouira for our COVID tests to get back home and to tour the stunning city on the shore. In Essaouira we saw a hotel with a riad-like feel called l’heure Bleu, located within the medina. It was a very pretty hotel with a rooftop pool and 360-degree views of the city.

We went down to the port and fishing area that was bustling with fishermen ready to go out to sea and kids swimming in the ocean. Opposite the port is the Gate of Tolerance, bringing together Christianity, Judaism and Islam by Mohammad III. Then off we went to Dar Dikra, now a museum inducted by King Mohamed VI. The museum boasts an old synagogue and portrays the history of the Moroccan Jews.

We met the chief advisor to the king, André Azoulay, and thanked him for his relentless support. We visited the Gadol Rav Pintos shul, his home, and the Jewish cemetery where he is buried. The day ended with a stay in the stunning Hotel Sofitel with a breathtaking pool and refreshing spa.

OUIDAD CITY

On the way to Casablanca, we stopped at a stunning resort called La Sultana, located on a lagoon off the ocean in Ouidad City. The resort accommodates 30 guests and has 70 employees. It’s luxury at its finest. We enjoyed the lagoon on a boat ride along the shores and relaxed on some plush lounge chairs by the pool. At its farm-totable restaurant we sampled some of the produce that is grown right next door. In fact, the resort is built on an old tomato farm. We wished we had one more night to enjoy the wonderful La Sultana.

CASABLANCA

We arrived in Casablanca to our Hotel Kenzi Tower, where a kosher bottle of wine and some sweet treats greeted us in our suite. The hotel is modern, clean and within walking distance to the Jewish area and kosher food in the city. While we waited for food to come from a local caterer, we went out to explore the city on foot. Casablanca is a typical European city with traffic and the hustle and bustle of everyday life. It’s amazing how every city we visited had its own charm and culture.

In the morning we met with the head of tourism in Casablanca and the managers of several large hotel chains to discuss the prospects of Jewish tourism in Morocco. In the wake of the signing of the Abraham accords, there are several kosher restaurants set to open in some of the bigger hotels to prepare for the influx of Israeli and American Jewish travelers. We were so excited with all the plans to welcome and accommodate the kosher traveler to Morocco. Phal. We went to the Hassan II mosque situated on the coast. As the largest mosque in Morocco, it holds 100,000 worshippers during Ramadan.

The Jewish museum in Casablanca is set in a former orphanage and depicts the Jewish culture and history of the Moroccan Jews. It is filled with numerous artifacts and remnants from old synagogues throughout the country. It was a superb place to visit and marvel at the original menorahs, tallis bags, tefillin bags, bridal jewelry, bridal dresses and clothing that Moroccan Jews were known to wear. Hanging in the front hall of the museum is the 2011 amendment to the Moroccan constitution which guarantees freedom of religious practice to all faiths.

Many people ask if Morocco is safe for Jews. My response is 100% yes! The king protects the Jews and all Jewish sites. Not once did I feel uncomfortable wearing my yarmulke and tzitzit. In fact, countless people thanked us for coming here.

We were sad to leave but we had a houseful of kids awaiting their Moroccan gifts. On board RAM, one of the best airlines I have ever flown, we were again treated like royalty, with all the warm Moroccan hospitality we were accustomed to during our visit. We can’t wait to go back!

Gabriel Boxer is a lead contributing editor & senior producer for Mochers Magazine. Follow his brand @kosherguru