MEATS

KEEPING OLD

TRADITIONS ALIVE:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DELI By: Shlomo Assayag

There are many foods synonymous with Jewish culture, but the most familiar and by far the most popular is traditional delicatessen fare.

Over the years, the “deli” has become your local spot for smoked meats, pastrami, corned beef, and old school favorites like kishka, knishes, chicken soup with matzo balls, kugel, pickled vegetables, and chopped liver. Deli food is often simple in ingredients and big on taste, leaving you with a warm memory of how Bubby used to feed you on your weekly visit.

Deli-style food originated in Eastern Europe and became popular in Canada and the U.S. when Jewish immigrants arrived in the 19th century, exploding onto the food scene of big cities like New York, Chicago, Montreal and Toronto. Deli can now be found at your local grocery store as a staple counter frequented by all walks of life. Many of the techniques used in the production of deli food were born out of supply shortages and the need to stretch the shelf life of products like meat and vegetables. The process of pickling and curing allowed products to last longer, producing a distinct array of foods that far outlasted the necessity of preservation. Cured meats, sliced meats, and brisket have kept a stronghold position in the deli repertoire. Everyone loves a delicious deli sandwich, piled high with their favorite meats atop pillowy rye bread with a crunchy dill pickle on the side. While the traditional coleslaw and potato salad continue to be enjoyed, over the years, American foods like French fries and potato wedges have crept into the typical deli menu. The deli has had a long history in the United States and Canada, although eventually its popularity took a downturn as people looked for fresher, healthier options. Some predicted that the deli scene was on its way out in the late 1990s to the early 2000s, but in the last 10 years we have seen a resurgence, as people have clung to the food of days gone by, finding comfort in the original foods of our culture.

One of the most debated topics when discussing deli is the difference between the different types of meat. Many don’t understand the distinction. Although slight, understanding the differences between the different kinds of meats will help you enjoy their unique flavors and leave you wanting more.

Brisket

Brisket is a staple in any deli and is the starting point for every type of meat available. Plain brisket can be smoked or pickled and cured. Before the delicatessen became popular, the brisket was quite unpopular and therefore the cheapest cut of meat available. In the 1800s, cost was a huge factor, so deli owners worked with this cheaper cut of meat to produce various types of what we now refer to as “deli”. Anyone who’s ever tried to cook a brisket knows it’s not easy to produce a tender, soft, delicious product from this very tough cut of meat. It was with extra care and long, slow cooking that deli owners were able to take this undesirable piece of meat and turn it into the deli we know and love today. With its vast popularity, brisket has become one of the most popular cuts of meat, which has driven up the cost and rendered it one of the most popular cuts for use in both delis and at home for the holidays and other special occasions.

Corned Beef

Corned beef came to us via necessity. Cows were typically slaughtered before winter and preserved via a salting process so that the meat wouldn’t rot over the long, cold season. This process of preservation followed Jews to America and became a popular sandwich item when it was thinly sliced and served on rye. Corned beef begins as a whole brisket cured in a brine (that is now a softer salting than that of days gone by) for at least three weeks and then boiled or steamed to soften it for that perfect sandwich. Corned beef has a distinct salty, meaty flavor that pairs well with mustard and rye bread. American fusion has also been known to include corned beef in food items like corned beef hash, deli roll, and as a crispy addition to your morning eggs.

Pastrami

Pastrami began as a type of jerky used to sustain the Ottoman soldiers back in the 14th century. The Ottomans would press their meat and fish to extract the moisture, then rub with heavy spice mixtures and leave them to air dry. These dried items would last without spoilage and provided sustenance when it was difficult to find. When the Ottomans reached Romania, the Jews in the area took to the idea using the same technique but with their own blend of spices, which became known as pastrama and eventually pastrami. Today, rather than a dry process, a brine is used to cure the pastrami and a blend of spices (unique to each meat master) is rubbed onto the pastrami before it’s smoked, brined, and steamed. Every pastrami is unique, some more peppery than others, using some mixture of peppercorns, allspice, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, juniper berries, garlic, red pepper flakes, mustard seed, cardamom, and onion. Molasses has been a popular vehicle for the application of the spices to help form that delicious bark you look for when seeking out that perfect pastrami. Pastrami is no longer a “Jewish” food. It has become a staple across Canada and the US, most often eaten with just mustard and a perfect rye.

Smoked Meat

Smoking meat is a phenomenon that started with deli but has become a world wide pastime, rising to competition level among those passionate about the craft. To produce authentic smoked meat, you certainly want to have a smoker that can get the job done. The smoking process takes anywhere from 10-18 hours or more, depending on the result you’re trying to achieve. There are various types of smoked meat, some more peppery and salty, some sweeter and less salty, but they all have a delicious strong smoky flavor, with slightly different flavor profiles depending on the selection of smoke chips used. Smoked meat pairs so well with mustards of all types and fits right into the deli portfolio of meats. Some smoked meats go through the traditional brining and picking process, while others will simply have a carefully curated blend of spices. The most important thing about smoked meat will be the beautiful bark that engulfs the meat by the end of the process. Jam packed with flavor, this meat is a fusion of old school and new school that has become a staple of the delicatessen fare.

Other Deli Favorites

In an effort to reduce waste and produce more economical choices, many dishes like kishka, knishes, chopped liver, tongue, and turkey became part of the food we know as deli. Once you find a great deli, you’ll rediscover the old school specialties you’ve always loved. In Toronto, our only kosher deli is called Jacobs Deli. They serve corned beef, pastrami, smoked turkey, and their very own smoked meat, all prepared and smoked in house in a custom made Cookshack smoker. They also have some of the old school favorites like beef knishes, kishka, and chicken matzo ball soup, to name a few, also made fresh in house. Two of my favorites unique to Jacobs are the deli crunch rolls and the poutine. Deli crunch rolls are delicious crunchy rolls with an explosive combo of smoked meats tucked inside. They’re deep fried until golden and crunchy and come alive when dipped in plain old yellow mustard. The poutine, a Canadian staple, is a big box of fries covered in the famous Jacobs gravy, topped with your choice of their crafted meats. Although poutine is traditionally served with cheese, this unexpected substitution is next level. Meat poutine takes you on a journey of flavor that has everyone forgetting about cheese. There was a time where the old school deli might have lost its way, but right now, deli is alive and well and still being enjoyed across the globe. Rediscover your local deli today!