MEATS
KEEPING OLD TRADITIONS ALIVE: A BRIEF HISTORY OF DELI
T
here are many foods synonymous with Jewish culture, but the most familiar and by far the most popular is traditional delicatessen fare.
Over the years, the “deli” has become your local spot for smoked meats, pastrami, corned beef, and old school favorites like kishka, knishes, chicken soup with matzo balls, kugel, pickled vegetables, and chopped liver. Deli food is often simple in ingredients and big on taste, leaving you with a warm memory of how Bubby used to feed you on your weekly visit. Deli-style food originated in Eastern Europe and became popular in Canada and the U.S. when Jewish immigrants arrived in the 19th century, exploding onto the food scene of big cities like New York, Chicago, Montreal and Toronto. Deli can now be found at your local grocery store as a staple counter frequented by all walks of life. Many of the techniques used in the production of deli food were born out of supply shortages and the need to stretch the shelf life of products like meat and vegetables. The process of pickling and curing allowed products to last longer, producing a distinct array of foods that far outlasted the necessity of preservation. 22 |
MOCHERS
By: Shlomo Assayag
Cured meats, sliced meats, and brisket have kept a stronghold position in the deli repertoire. Everyone loves a delicious deli sandwich, piled high with their favorite meats atop pillowy rye bread with a crunchy dill pickle on the side. While the traditional coleslaw and potato salad continue to be enjoyed, over the years, American foods like French fries and potato wedges have crept into the typical deli menu. The deli has had a long history in the United States and Canada, although eventually its popularity took a downturn as people looked for fresher, healthier options. Some predicted that the deli scene was on its way out in the late 1990s to the early 2000s, but in the last 10 years we have seen a resurgence, as people have clung to the food of days gone by, finding comfort in the original foods of our culture. One of the most debated topics when discussing deli is the difference between the different types of meat. Many don’t understand the distinction. Although slight, understanding the differences between the different kinds of meats will help you enjoy their unique flavors and leave you wanting more.
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