Ava—Outside

NEVER SLIP.

’m pleased to be able to present this magazine to those who want to expand their surf destinations and knowledge. In this edition, you’ll get a look into some of the best places to travel to in 2022 for surfing and good fun! We’ll be flying you across the world, from the rainbow state, Hawai’i and to the land of the rising run, Japan and some stops in between. Not only will you drool at the peeling waves but also at some background of the surf culture behind it all. And while you read you can decide which location, you’ll be spending your next few paychecks on, because there’s plenty of options. So, while you’re at it, we can dream together about

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what it means to urf in hawai’i

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he’e NAlu e he’e NAlu e

Surfing was born in Hawai’i and is deeply intertwined with its history and culture. If you dream of riding the waves, there’s no better place to learn how to surf and truly commune with the ocean. Learn about the origins of surfing in Hawai’i and find out where you can watch the pros or take a surfing lesson on your visit. Surfing was born in Hawai’i and is deeply intertwined with its history and culture. If you dream of riding the waves, there’s no better place to learn how to surf and truly commune with the ocean. Learn about the origins of surfing in Hawai’i and find out where you can watch the pros or take a surfing lesson on your visit.

HAWAI’I he’e

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hawai’i

By Erika Scafuro

he’eNAlu he’e NAlu HAWAI’I NAlu

In the early 1900s, surfing was revitalized on Waikīkī Beach.

The earliest written account of surfing, or he’e nalu in Hawaiian, was by Lieutenant James King in 1779 just months after Captain Cook’s death. He described Native Hawaiians riding a wood plank on the swells of Kealakekua Bay on the island of Hawai’i. Even he could see how fun the sport was, writing, “… they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion that this exercise gives.”

Surfing is believed to have originated long ago in ancient Polynesia, but later thrived in Hawai’i. It was once a sport only reserved for ali’i (Hawaiian royalty), which is why surfing is often called the “sport of kings.” King Kamehameha I himself was known for his surfing ability. With the end of the Hawaiian kapu (taboo) system in 1819, commoners were allowed to freely participate in the sport.

However, when western missionaries arrived in the 1800s, they discouraged Hawaiian customs like hula and surfing.

In the late 1800s, the “Merrie Monarch” King Kalākaua, one of the last reigning monarchs of the Hawaiian Kingdom, revived the hula, signaling the return of Hawaiian cultural pride. Then in the early 1900s, surfing was revitalized on Waikīkī Beach. During this era, Duke Kahanamoku, who grew up surfing the south shore waves, was a Waikīkī Beach Boy who taught visitors how to surf and canoe. Duke later won multiple Olympic gold medals for swimming, and eventually became known as the “father of modern surfing.” Today, a bronze statue of Duke welcomes visitors to Waikīkī, where first-time surfers are still catching their first waves.

of kings.

When and Where to Watch Surfing

In the ’50s, surfers began to ride the big and powerful winter waves of Mākaha on O’ahu’s west shore and Waimea Bay on the North Shore. Big wave season in Hawai’i happens roughly between November and February on Hawai’i’s north shores. You can watch surfers on every island, but some of the best surfing competitions in the world are held on O’ahu’s North Shore in November and December, including the biggest them of all, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. If you’re planning to watch the pros in action during these events, be sure to get to the North Shore early because traffic can be heavy. During the winter, the islands’ north shores generate big swells, while in the summer, the south shores enjoy a bump in size. O’ahu’s North Shore is a legendary surf spot featuring viewer-friendly beaches at Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach and the Banzai Pipeline.

Stand-Up Paddle Boarding

Stand-up paddle boarding is a variation on surfing that is becoming very popular Hawai’i. In stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), riders stand upright on wider, longer boards and use a paddle to maneuver. Great for a core muscle workout, SUP is often used more for fitness rather than for riding waves. Lessons are highly recommended for your safety and for the safety of your fellow beachgoers and surfers.

Take a Surfing Lesson

Almost every island offers surfing lessons where you can learn the basics of the sport. Lessons run from one to two hours and are taught by experienced surfers in gentle breaks. Longboards are used to make it even easier for first-timers to learn, and a push from your instructor will help you get started. Waikīkī Beach is still one of the best spots in Hawai’i to get on your feet and ride your first.

IF IN DOUBT, DON’T GO OUT

Note: Heed all warning signs when surfing or stand-up paddle boarding. Consult your instructor about changing conditions, strong currents and reefs. Use your own best judgment to determine whether a particular beach is appropriate for your ability level.

In the early 1900s, surfing was revitalized on Waikīkī Beach.

Before standing on a board,

developing a connection to Hawai‘i’s surf culture is a must. Gain a respect for the sport by discovering the island’s surf history, as well as where to see the pros, grab gear, and catch the best waves. Who knows, one day you may just take home the gold medal like Honolulu native Carissa Moore at the 2020 Tokyo Olympic

Learn Hawai‘i Surfing History

O‘ahu is said to be the birthplace of surfing and is most definitely where the sport was first observed. Surfing was considered the “sport of kings.” Kamehameha the Great, the most famous of the Hawaiian kings, helped popularize the sport in the 1700s, but it wasn’t until the early 1900s that surfing became what we know it as today. “Father of modern surfing” and Honolulu native Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to the world during his world travels.

With over 200 miles of coastline dotted with premier surf spots, O‘ahu is a haven for the pros. You’ll find world-class surfers at the powerful winter breaks like the Banzai Pipeline. From the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing to The Eddie, check out our guide to discover the top local surfing tournaments on the island to see surfing’s biggest names riding some epic waves.

Discover O‘ahu’s Best Surfing Beaches

O‘ahu has over 100 named surf spots with waves of all sizes to meet the needs of beginners and experts. Find gentle waves at Waikiki Beach with breaks like Pops and Canoes, or at Diamond Head, known for having long mellow waves and deep waters. Experienced surfers will find excellent waves on the North Shore at places like Pua’ena Point Beach Park and Hale’iwa Beach Park. It’s important to remember that while the water might look calm from the shoreline, the current is very powerful, so make sure you know your skill level. Surf lessons are available at one of the many surf schools in Waikiki.

Get Surf Gear

Ready to hop on a board and embrace Hawai’i’s surf culture? Local surf shops like Moku Hawai’i, Big Wave Dave, and Quality Surfboards Hawai’i are all excellent places in Waikiki to grab some gear, rent a board, or take some lessons. If you find yourself on the North Shore, the longtime Surf N Sea shop in Hale’iwa has all your surf gear covered, plus offers surf and dive lessons. Surfing etiquette in Hawaii

Hawaii is pretty sacred territory in the surfing world. Everyone and their grandma want a piece, so there can be big influxes of international travelers with boards in tow, and that can put pressure on lineups.

SURFING ETIQUETTE

There have been reports of rampant localism at the mostcontested spots across the islands, especially on the North Shore and even in Waikiki. However, other surfers report nothing whatsoever. As a general precaution, it’s a good idea to hang on the outside of the peak if there’s a big local contingent and only go for the waves that are left. Alternatively, get up real early and try to snag the spot for yourself.

Naturally, all the usual surf rules apply in Aloha. Leave the wave for the person that’s closest to the peak, don’t try to surf waves that are already taken, and try to paddle around the break, not through it. It’s also super important that you match your skill level to your chosen spots here. Hre capable of bone-breaking power and rips are strong to snag the spot for yourself.

they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion that this exercise gives.

THE MODULATOR WETSUIT

By One Block Down

surf culture

As an island nation, Japan offers plenty of exciting spots where surfers can hit the waves. With a flourishing surf culture that grows in popularity every year, it has four main islands and countless smaller ones that offer plenty of opportunities for surfers to enjoy themselves throughout the country.

the surf pursuit travels to the east.

Locals embracing surf culture on an average day in day in rural city.

As Japan is known for respecting the heritage and craftsmanship that defines a tradition, much of this can be found in the way in which Japan assimilated Surf culture.

When you survey the internet and talk to people about what it means to be a surfer, you will notice that there isn’t much consensus.

Surfing means different things to different.

Surfer representing Japan in 2013 surf contest.

Valerie Duprat Mére-Made Surfboards

LIVING IN CALIFORNIA SHAPING

FROM HER BACKYARD

BY NAOMI BLIK

Surfboard building is unlike any other trade – there’s no formal training or trade schools. Hand shaping surfboards breeds a culture all its own, interconnecting generations with knowledge and tradition passed down from one to the next. Techniques are often unique to each shaper and refined over time, and eventually given to someone else to progress knowledge. Mentorships, which often spring from within intimate circles in shaping bays or sanding rooms, have mostly been a benefit of the guys-only club. It can be a tough one to break into.

“Have you ever used a power tool?” was the first response I received when I expressed interest in shaping a board to my friend, who I deeply

admired as a surfer and shaper. It’s not totally uncommon for women to face challenges of legitimacy in trade jobs, but often the biggest hurdle for women in surfboard shaping is simply picking up the planer for the first time.

French transplant Valerie Duprat moved to California 20 years ago. Duprat, a biochemist and mother, was searching for a creative outlet and found that with shaping. It began as a hobby 10 years ago and evolved into a business, Mère-Made Surfboards (a clever play on words, as mère means mother in French). Duprat learned from shaper Matt Kinoshita, who taught her techniques and philosophies he’d gleamed from the Ben Aipa.

“For sure there are challenges in being a minority,” Duprat told me in regards to being one of the few female shapers. “However, being a female in a male dominated industry also opened up doors just because of the curiosity factor. With hindsight, having to prove myself harder boosted my determination to succeed and therefore helped my journey in the shaping world.” All of her boards are custom ordered and hand.

Valerie Duprat shapes out of her backyard in Encinitas and focuses on performance shortboards.

Photo: Laurent Chantegros.

EXPAND YOURCOMFORT.

Uluwatu Bali

Ericeira, Portugal

By Stacey Leasca

There’s nothing quite like standing up on a wave for the first time. The thrill of having the ocean behind you, the feeling of weightlessness as you pop up on the board, and the pure adrenaline of riding straight back to shore — it’s pure bliss. And it’s a moment you’ll want to experience over and over again on your travels.

But rather than head off to the same crowded spots, it’s time to take your skills to a smaller surf town. Here are 13 of the best surf towns around the world that deserve your attention.

Nosara, Costa Rica

San Clemente, California

Woolacombe, England

Uluwatu, Bali

Bali is already a well-known and beloved surfing destination. However, there are still a few off-the-beatenpath spots worthy of a visit. Uluwatu is located just 45 minutes from the Bali airport, but it feels an entire world away. The gorgeous cliff-lined beaches stretch out to a challenging yet accessible reef break. Visitors will also find plenty to explore in town, including the Uluwatu Temple, which sits on a cliff overlooking the break. It not only offers a great opportunity to learn more about Balinese culture, but it also offers stunning views of the clear, blue sea all the way to the horizon.

Nosara, Costa Rica

Costa Rica is spoiled with excellent surf destinations. If you want to surf here, you can hop in the water just about anywhere along the coast and likely catch a wave. But if you’re looking for a charming small town, as well as some stellar waves, look no further than Nosara. Located on the Nicoya Peninsula, the town is

home to a sandy break that’s great for beginners, but can also pump from time to time for those seeking chest- to head-high swells. In town, visitors can dine in some divine restaurants, take part in restorative yoga, or shop in a few of the town’s delightful craft shops.

Ericeira, Portugal

Portugal is home to arguably one of the most famous waves in the world, which can be found in Nazaré, located in the northern part of the country. This wave can grow as high as 78 feet across its face, so unless your name is Garrett McNamara, we suggest you avoid trying to paddle out to this. Instead, make your way further south to Ericeira, a town located just 45 minutes outside Lisbon. With beautiful swells for the everyday surfer, this quaint seaside town is the ideal spot to book a lesson or two to improve your skills. Ericeira also holds the distinction of being the only European destination named to the World Surfing Reserves, which aims to protect the best swells on Earth for generations to come.

Raglan, New Zealand

If it’s a left-hand wave you’re after, make your way to Raglan on New Zealand’s North Island. This coastal town is known for its stunning, volcanic black-sand beaches and what could be the longest left-hand break in the world at Manu Bay. It’s so long, in fact, that NewZealand.com claims you could ride the wave for more than a mile without stopping if you have the skills. Once you’re done playing in the water, you can find a tasty treat in town, as Raglan is also a rather famous foodie destination, offering an abundance of organic goodies and plentiful cafes ready to pour you a perfect espresso. While visiting Raglan, make sure to take some time to head out on a Māori cultural tour to get to know the region and the people who make it so special.

Pipa, Brazil

Brazilians aren’t just good surfers — they’re great surfers. Just look at the World Surf League’s rankings for proof. If you want to get a taste or improve your skills, you simply have

Pipa

Raglan

Tofino

to head to their homeland and take to the waves. One of the prime spots to do just that is Pipa, arguably one of the coolest beach towns around. It’s far less frequented by tourists than its more well-known counterparts, making it a place where surfers can find both a little space in the lineup and room for their blanket on the beach. If you’re fortunate, you may even spot a dolphin or two. After drying off, head into town for a bite of fresh seafood or take a hike in the nearby trails (visiting the.

San Clemente, California

Like the other destinations on this list, California also comes with many well-known surf spots. And sure, you can head to Malibu or Venice Beach and have a great time, but if you’re looking for calmer swells (and fellow surfers), travel further south to San Clemente. The Orange County destination is home to San Onofre State Beach, which comes with one of the mellowest surf breaks around. It’s so chill that the break is even lovingly known as “Old Man’s,” due to the fact that just about anyone can surf it. Be warned: Getting into San Onofre can be tricky — it’s one in, one out parking, which means arriving early

(we’re talking 5 a.m. early) to wait in line is a must. But once you’re in, you’ll be rewarded with a perfect day of grilling by the beach, making new friends, and plenty of fond new surfing memories of the North.

Tofino, Canada

The town of Tofino is home to approximately 2,000 permanent residents, making it one of the smallest destinations on this list. But its relatively small population only adds to its mythical charms. Located on Vancouver Island, Tofino is known as the “surf capital of Canada,” and it’s a place to go if you’re really looking to catch a wave in the wild. As Surfline notes, the water here can be icy cold and you may even spot an orca breaching nearby. But if you’re brave enough, you’ll be treated to stellar longboard waves with only the sea creatures there to judge you.

Hossegor, France

Another small town to travel to on your hunt for the perfect swell is Hossegor, a commune located in southwest France. You could spot pros mingling with the groms here, as Hossegor is also home of the

Quiksilver Pro World Surf League event. Surfers will find miles of peaks at the beach, from easy to expert only. The town itself is quite the scene, filled with bars and restaurants that somewhat mimic an après-ski vibe — only everyone is in bathing suits rather than snow gear. There’s lots to do out of the water, too, including shopping in the Pedebert district, mountain biking, taking community yoga classes, and more more stuff. France the WSL.

Puerto Escondido, Mexico

For sunshine, epic waves, and vibrant cultural history, head to the port town of Puerto Escondido, located along Mexico’s Pacific coast in the state of Oaxaca. The beaches here are stunning, and the shoreline is often regarded as having one of the world’s best beach breaks. It’s even home to what’s known as the “Mexican Pipeline,” an homage to Hawaii’s famous Pipeline break on the North Shore. After paddling out for a session, make your way to town to check out the gorgeous architecture and visit a few markets, where you’ll undoubtedly find the perfect souvenir to bring home. I want.

Hossegor

Jeffreys Bay, South Africa

Take your surf skills up a notch by booking a ticket to Jeffreys Bay in South Africa. The town, located in the Eastern Cape, is the place to be for what locals and surf lovers everywhere fawn over as the best right-hand break in the world. Jeffreys Bay is something of a paradise thanks to its temperate climate, plentiful wildlife, and friendly atmosphere. In town, visitors can shop in craft stores, dine in the beachside cafes, visit a nearby estuary, or simply sit and watch their fellow surfers catch waves until the sun set on the horizon.

Narragansett, Rhode Island

It’s not called the Ocean State for nothing. Tucked away in the southern corner of the state sits the perfect little beach town of Narragansett.

Though it can be quiet in the winter, come summer, it’s an excellent spot, especially for longboarding. That’s because not only does it offer lengthy and calm waves, but it’s also the birthplace of the Peter Pan Slug, arguably one of the best longboards ever shaped. Once your arms get tired from paddling, make your way down the seawall for a sunset.

Taghazout, Morocco

The small village of Taghazout is hiding a big secret: an epic point break that must be ridden to be believed. Located along Morocco’s Atlantic coast, this village is in a unique position that provides nearperfect offshore winds, creating stellar conditions almost all year long. Plus, it’s a place where everyone — from

extreme beginners to advanced experts — can find a swell. Out of the water, visitors can indulge in a local hammam or explore the nearby central market in Agadir.

Woolacombe, England

If you can brave one more chilly day in the water, then it’s time to head to Woolacombe. The town, located in North Devon, is as handsome as they come, with lots of outdoor space thanks to the surrounding national parks and protected coastline. In the water, surfers will find long, rolling breaks that are ideal for those looking to progress in the sport. Out of the water, visitors can warm up in the nearby restaurants and friendly pubs that more than to pour.

Jeffreys Bay

Puerto Escondido

TAGHAZOUT

Narragansett

Relax,

you got DaKine.

High-End Surf Gear We Don’t Need (But Absolutely Want)

MONEY CAN’T BUY HAPPINESS, BUT IT CAN BUY COOL SHIT

BY JON COEN

Let’s face it: you don’t need a garage full of expensive surf gear to be a core surfer. A bar of wax, an affordable wetsuit and any floatable piece of equipment are arguably all you need to keep the stoke alive. Most of us workaday surfers tend to be pretty frugal anyways, saving up for our next surf trip or a board we’ve been dreaming about rather than splurging on a piece of surf gadgetry that’ll likely have no impact on how often we paddle out to score a few But sometimes we keep those high dollar items–those shiny material things in the front window of the surf shop–in our periphery. We certainly don’t need ’em to be a core surfer, but sometimes it’s okay to dream. We put together a list of high-end surf gear we don’t necessarily need, but would absolutely love to have if, say, we won

HURLEY ADVANTAGE ELITE3/3 WETSUIT

This suit is almost $800 and it’s not even a 6-mil. There must be something to it… What you’re paying for is a suit made by of Japanese neoprene. While the hand-crafted process is more intensive (and expensive), it actually eliminates the need for seam tape and makes the suit more flexible. Water-tight chest zip entry allows easy in and out with minimal bulk. Doubleglued, blind-stitched seams, pre-bent legs and reengineered seams allow for a phenomenal range of motion.

Hurley Advantage Elite 3/3 Wetsuit $750

RIP CURL SEARCH GPS 2

Rip Curl basically built the ultimate surf watch with the Search GPS. Then they raised the bar with the smaller, lighter and more durable version. The watch connects to satellite so you can log your entire surf session, including the speed, duration and distance of each wave you caught. It also allows you to get swell, wind, and tide data from around the world. It’s great for

DAKINE REGULATOR

CONVERTIBLE TRAVEL BAG

Well, if this isn’t the Cadillac of surfboard travel bags...

When we plan surf travel, we think about waves, beaches, culture and parties in some buzzing tropical beach town. We don’t think about the hassles of airports, throwing boards in taxi vans, angry gate agents and oversized baggage policies. But those are the realities of getting from Point A to Point B with.

The Regulator is a Double Convertible bag. The two compartments each hold two boards and separate into two separate units. You could take two boards for a short jaunt or zip them together and cart four sticks around the world. And occasionally, it helps with baggage compliance to check in two smaller bags. The Regulator features thickly padded closed-cell foam on top and bottom, ergonomic padded shoulder straps with integrated pocket and internal compartment for your fins.

Dakine Regulator Convertible $400

activities beyond the lineup, letting you track your runs or your top speed on a snowboard trip. And to be honest, while you could certainly score a nice used board for the same price, it’s not that much of a spend for the tech head.

Rip Curl Search GPS 2 $299.95

PATAGONIA STORMFRONT WET/ DRY DUFFEL 65 L

In a perfect world, all of your dry stuff stays dry, even lugging it around with your soaking shorty and that rancid towel. While it ‘aint cheap, the Stormfront is about as close as you’re going to get to a perfect world of dry gear. You can get yourself a duffel bag at your local sporting goods store or surf shop for $50, so it would seem that this price is a bit over-thetop. But Patagonia is all about quality and if you’re packing up for multiple swell strike missions a year, it will pay to have a durable bag with a TPUcoated water resistance.

Keep your gear organized with split compartments and a floating divider. It has reinforced haul handles and a removable shoulder strap for easy carrying. There’s an interior zippered mesh pocket for your passport, wallet and anything else you don’t want to be wringing out. And Patagonia fixes or replaces your gear so this could be the last duffle you buy for some time.

Keep my gear dry with the Patagonia Stormfront Wet/Dry Duffel $249

HANGAIR DRYING SYSTEM

The Hangair Drying System from the dive company Underwater Kinetics is something of a luxury. You never heard the guys who pioneered Steamer Lane whining about a wet wetsuit. But if you can justify spending the money by the fact that faster dry time will prolong the life of your wetsuit, it’s not that crazy. This hanger has an internal powerfan that pushes air through the suit, effectively drying the suit much faster than just drip dry.

Get my wetsuit dry faster with the Hangair Drying System $72.

RINSE KIT HOT ROD WATER HEATER

Having pressurized running water at your car or campsite after a surf is a luxury in itself. Having a hot shower is ultra-luxurious. The Hot Rod Water Heater works with the Rinse Kit. You plug it into the 12-volt socket of your car and it warms the water in your Rinse Kit via an 8-foot power cord. It features corrosion-resistant stainless steel and an auto shutoff switch.

Realistically this isn’t going to work on Long Island in January, but in more moderate climates, warm right up before you get changed. but in more moderate.

Rinse

Kit Hot Rod Water Heater $69.95

SMITH FRONTMAN

The Smith Frontman are a tad pricey, but man, they sure are nice. The frames are impact resistant (I’ve seen a pair of Smiths get run over by a car and the frames bounced back) and the lenses have Smith’s signature ChromaPop for colorization. The head curvature is designed to keep every angle of the sun

SOLOSHOT 3 WITH OPTIC65 CAMERA

Doesn’t matter what kind of a soul surfer you are, we all love photos and videos of ourselves. And if you have no shame, Soloshot has the product for you. Eliminate the camera man or significant other who’s bored to death of watching your bogged turns, fly-aways, overzealous claims and blown tubes with the Soloshot 3. You wear a little tag and the camera follows you around, recording your every move. But Soloshot went and upped the technology to a 65x optic zoom and 4K quality video.

I want video myself that I will buy the Soloshot3 with Optics65 for $999.

Smith Frontman Chromapop Elite $229

SAFETY FIRST. FOR EVERYONE ON BOARD.