Teton Family Fall 2018 Issue No. 28 by Teton Media Works, Inc.

FALL

2018

Issue # 28

e... d i s

FALL SUE

F O O D I Scal Eat Lo

FIGHTING THE KITCHEN SLUMP One cookbook at a time

SHEEPING AROUND

A local dairy masters its “iconic” sheep cheese

FOOD IN JARS A canning and storage jar review

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

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FALL

2018 Issue # 28

Contents

29 —

Departments A Note From the Editor Mountain Style SEED TO PLATE STARTS HERE Our local Slow Food chapter gets kids cooking FOOD IN JARS A gourmet jar lineup that’s not just for canning

Conscientious Cook AN APPLE A DAY Is just what the doctor ordered ...

Ask the Expert NAVIGATING FERTILITY A couple’s path to parenthood

In the Garden PUTTING YOUR GARDEN TO REST With a meditative seasonal closure

Cabin Fever “BEING WELL” STARTS IN THE KITCHEN Design your kitchen for wellness

Mandatory Recess

On the Cover: Lark’s Meadow Farms currently milks 97 of the 200 sheep on their farm, with a goal of milking 216 ewes by the year 2020. Photo by Camrin Dengel

FEATURES 29 38 — — FIGHTING THE KITCHEN SLUMP

Teton Family’s food photographer, Paulette Phlipot, opts for pageturning inspiration (rather than digital prompts) to yield a kitchen routine that’s both wholesome and simple.

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

SHEEPING AROUND Lark’s Meadow Farms, an Idaho fromagerie, overcomes domestic sheep dairy hurdles to make cheese that far surpasses its European counterpart. By Christina Shepherd McGuire

38 —

Photos: Paulette Phlipot (top); Camrin Dengel (bottom)

—

Fall 2018 Â¤ Teton Family

Welcome to

A note from the EDITOR tag along on my cockamamie adventures, and I believe we’re helping to shape each other’s stories, too—career paths, actually.

I love people’s stories in a way that dictates my life. (Weird, I know.) Maybe it comes from the longing to expand the nucleus of my tribe. Or maybe it stems from the fact that I live thousands of miles away from family, making the threads that bind me to others that much more important. When I meet someone for the first time, it goes something like this: Step 1) I smile at them. A smile back, or lack there of, lets me know if I even need to advance to Step 2. Step 2) I initiate small talk. If they get past Step 1, Step 2 lets me in on their substance. And Step 3) I prod deeper— almost immediately—trying to get to the nuts and bolts of my new acquaintance’s existence. Things move fast for me, I know. It could just be my ingrained East Coast ways (no time for BS). But really, we all have a way of sizing people up when we first meet them. And for me, time is much too precious to beat around the bush. So I seek out new stories in places where those I align with hang out, like the farmers market … or the pickup line at school … the ski hill … local trailheads. I thought about this a lot on my way to visit Lark’s Meadow Farms in Salem, Idaho (see my feature on page 38). As I sampled his cheese at the farmers market in Driggs—year after year—Kendall Russell gave me a little peek into his story, one I fully uncovered in my article. And I’m so glad I crossed paths with photographer Camrin Dengel, who traveled with me to the farm that day. She continues to

Then there’s fellow writer Jonah Lisa Dyer, who laced her family into her neighbor’s apple tree story on page 14; and architect Veronica Schreibeis Smith, who is weaving the concept of a wellness kitchen into the fabric of her individual landscape (see page 25). Food artist and photographer Paulette Phlipot’s story centers on cooking whole food for her family, and the various cookbooks she relies on (see page 28) to adopt other cooks’ traditions as her own. And no doubt the couples interviewed in Melissa Snider’s “Navigating Fertility” article on page 19 will guide those who find themselves making similar life choices. So whether you’re traveling upstream (we’ve all been there) or downstream in the current of your existing story, where you came from and where you go will continue to connect us in ways unknown. And that’s what’s so fabulous about my job and this magazine—especially the annual harvest edition. With each issue, I feel like my tribe and I handpick the very best fruit from our local tree and deliver it to you in ways that give substance to life. These ingredients further connect you to us and us to you. So thank you for being such “interesting specimens” (my tween daughter’s new favorite phrase). And if you have a good story, make sure to hit me up.

Amelia Meyer lives in Moose with her husband and five children. She loves to get outside camping, biking, hiking, and skiing, and firmly believes that trail mix is a fraud if it doesn’t include M&Ms. Follow her family’s (mis)adventures and check out her helpful gear reviews at talesofamountainmama.com.

No matter how many miles separate Paulette Phlipot from her Teton family and friends, recipes and fresh food continue to keep them together. Recently expanding the enjoyment of her art, this award-winning culinary photographer launched a wearable product line featuring her colorful photography on leggings and totes at foodasart.com.

Melissa Snider is an elementary school librarian who lives and works in Jackson Hole. As a child, Melissa says, she was often caught reading way past bedtime. As an adult, she continues this habit. When she’s not immersed in books, Melissa can be found on family adventures in the mountains with her husband and two young daughters.

Deb Barracato visited a friend in the Tetons 23 years ago and never left. She appreciates the flexible lifestyle that her work-from-home career as a corporate event manager, freelance writer, and editor allows. Deb’s free time is spent building quality memories with her son, Nathan.

Jonah Lisa Dyer is a screenwriter (Hysteria, 2011, and Away and Back, 2015) and author (The Season, Viking Children’s, 2016). She loves hiking, bonfires, knitting, and reading—preferably in that order and with a piece of pie somewhere in the lineup. She lives in Teton Valley with her husband/ writing partner and their two children.

Feeling grateful for a life full of friends and family, Andrea Swedberg enjoys the outdoors on bike, skis, and hockey skates. If she’s not in the kitchen baking to her heart’s content, she’s playing with her daughter and friends in the water, on the dirt, or in the snow.

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

Editor photograph by Kisa Koenig

Contributing WRITERS

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Fall 2018 Â¤ Teton Family

tetonfamilymagazine.com facebook.com/TetonFamilyMagazine

@tetonfamilymagazine

@tetonfamilymag

Publisher Kevin Olson Associate Publisher Adam Meyer Editor Christina Shepherd McGuire christina@tetonfamilymagazine.com Art Director Samantha Nock Copy Editor Richard Anderson

Contributing Photographers Camrin Dengel Lara Agnew Ryan Dorgan Paulette Phlipot Greg Von Doersten Advertising Sales Deidre Norman, deidre@tetonmediaworks.com

Sarah Wilson

Ad Production Lydia Redzich

Taylor-Ann Smith

Distribution: Kyra Griffin, Hank Smith, Kal Stromberg, Jeff Young

10 —

Teton Family is published three times a year and distributed at more than seventy-five locations for free throughout the Tetons. To request copies, call (307) 732-5903. Visit tetonfamilymagazine.com for additional content and insightful blogs. © 2018 Teton Media Works, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of this magazine’s original contents, whether in whole or in part, requires written permission from the publisher.

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Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

Fall 2018 Â¤ Teton Family

SEED TO PLATE STARTS HERE By Amelia Mayer // Photography by Ryan Dorgan

nvolving kids in fundamental community activities is the best way to foster sustainable practices. Our fertile land gives back abundantly with food to nourish our bodies; our job is to teach children the why and how, inspiring them to act as its stewards. Here in the Tetons, a handful of organizations help young community members learn how to grow, prepare, and cook nature’s bounty. The camps and classes they provide encourage a long-term commitment to improving our local food system. Scott Steen of Slow Food in the Tetons lays out the group’s mission: “We imagine a community in which good, clean food is available to everyone. And creating a robust local food system is how we can achieve this goal. … We teach [children] why local food is important for their health, for building a strong community and local economy, and for creating a cleaner environment. There is a huge disconnect between people and food, and we’re trying to rebuild these connections.“ Slow Food in the Tetons reaches out to kids in a variety of ways throughout the year. In the summer, it hosts a farm-to-table cooking camp that spans eight weeks and takes place at the People’s 8

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

Market. Students learn the importance of seasonal cooking and healthy eating while meeting local farmers and creating hands-on connections with local food sources. Slow Food also offers weeklong cooking and farming summer camps, taught by chef and farmer Ian McGregor and held in a diversified garden and outdoor kitchen in South Park. Kids learn basic farming skills like planting seeds, cultivating and harvesting food, and outdoor cooking. During the school year, look out for Slow Food’s after-school classes. They are popular and fill up fast with returning students enthusiastic about cooking and food. The classes focus on showing kids where food comes from, how it was raised, what it takes to get it to their plates, and how their eating choices affect the whole system. Students also learn life skills like cooking without a recipe and using their taste buds to dictate what they include in a dish. Steen knows that the future of local food lies in the hands of kids. “While Slow Food also holds programming for adults, we believe that the best way to affect long-term change in our local food system—and our best investment in the future of the organization—is to create programs through which kids make meaningful connections with their food and farmers,” he says.

Emily Sustick, program director at Full Circle Education, believes that when students “eat to learn, they also learn to eat.” Full Circle’s programs take kids from garden to plate in “full circle” fashion. Being involved in the entire process gives children an opportunity to build life-long relationships with food and the natural world. These relationships encourage them to make daily healthy food choices, while investing in the care of our planet. Based in Victor, Full Circle focuses on educating kids both in school and farm settings throughout Teton Valley and Jackson Hole. With the help of school administrators, teachers, and parent volunteers, Sustick has helped several area schools build onsite gardens. She works with teachers to integrate garden lessons (like growing vegetables and the importance of pollinators) into the academic classroom, while mentoring parents and faculty on how to support and sustain the future of their garden programs. Full Circle also provides classes and camps for community kids in conjunction with Teton Science Schools, and offers customized summer field trips for small groups. Thanks to Slow Food in the Tetons, Full Circle Education, area farmers, and food purveyors, local kids have a much greater appreciation for both the food on their plate and the process it takes to get there. Look out for other year-round, seed-to-plate programs popping up around the area that allow children to immerse themselves in our food community. tf

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FOOD IN JARS A Canning and Storage Jar Review By Christina Shepherd McGuire // Photography by Lara Agnew

WECK

BALL

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

y mom never canned. Blame it on the pre-packaged, better-than-whole-foods hype of the late 70s and 80s, but things that took time in that era were definitely not on the radar of hard-working women’s libbers. Thankfully, I grew up in a household with deep Italian roots, so in between nights of hot dogs and Kraft Mac and Cheese dinners, my mom prepared big spreads of slow-cooked meals made from fresh summer ingredients, including lettuce (head-only back then), cucumbers, tomatoes, and peaches.

Today I perform my own ritual—one that resurrects the practices of my grandparents, really—of putting up fresh fruit and veggies when they’re in their prime. The act of canning and storing food in jars has created my obsession over what jars work (and look) best all done up with their food du jour. And while each one has its own special nuance, together on the shelf they bring back tastes and textures once reserved only for summer. Here’s my pick of the most utilitarian, and fashionable, jars on the block.

QUATTRO STAGIONI

LUIGI BORMIOLI

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

How-To: Canning with Ball jars couldn’t be easier. While most traditionalists like to boil their jars, lids, and rings before canning (just in case), I, again, suggest throwing them in the dishwasher. Then fill the pint- or quart-size wide-mouth jars with your prepared concoction and wipe the rims clean. Place the sterilized lids on top of the jars, screw on the rings with just enough *Note: If the rubber seals on your tension to keep lids are scratched or ripped, or if them in place (don’t the metal rings are rusty, throw tighten like you them out and purchase new ones. mean it), and then The USDA recommends tossing lids process them in a after every use. water bath.

WECK I’m slowly building up my collection of Weck jars (weckjars.com) for all things food. I use them for canning, storing bulk food items, and spice organization. But there’s no better gift than a jam or other canned item thoughtfully packaged in a blue-tinted Weck jar, complete with clips. You can be assured the recipient will enjoy using this decorative piece long after your gift is consumed. How-To: Weck jar assemblies consist of a jar, glass lid, rubber ring, and two stainless clips. To use them, first sterilize all the parts as you would traditional jars (I like to do so in the dishwasher). Keep your dishwasher closed until you’re ready to can, and then fill each hot jar with your prepared food item, leaving ¼-inch headroom at the top of the jars. Set the rubber rings into the groove on the lids and wipe the jars’ rims clean. Place the *Note: Since Weck jars come in lids on top of your metric sizes, you must first make jars and affix the the conversion from milliliters to two metal clips on ounces (or cups) before determining either side. Process your processing time. the jars in a hot water bath for the recommended time. Pros

Cons

•

Highly decorative and available • in many shapes and sizes.

Weck jars, imported from Germany, are expensive.

•

Glass is the only material that • contacts your food ensuring better sanitation.

When used for bulk food storage, the clips and rubber ring can be cumbersome.

•

Less wasteful—glass lids don’t • wear out and rubber rings last.

•

It’s easy to tell when your jar is sealed. The rubber tab on the jar angles down and the lid won’t come off, even without the clips.

They’re not USDA approved. This does not mean, however, that Weck jars aren’t safe. They just haven’t been formally tested stateside yet.

BALL Nearly every grocery store carries Ball jars (ball.com) during canning season. In fact, we have so many in our house that they’ve become our lunch containers, smoothie glasses, and beer mugs. We store marbles, art supplies, Band Aids, and Q-tips in them. And if you come over for dinner, you’ll leave with leftovers packed inside this vessel. 12

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

Pros

Cons

•

Available on-the-fly at almost • any local grocery store.

Wasteful—the lids and rings must be replaced after every use.

•

Most every canning recipe and • USDA guide is suited toward these jars, making them extremely easy to use.

The plastic seal on the lid contains BPAs, a harmful chemical that can leach into food at high temperatures.

•

Ball jars now come in a plethora of colors like red, blue, purple, and green.

Ball jars can open and crack while processing, causing a mess.

•

BORMIOLI ROCCO QUATTRO STAGIONI As with anything Italian, Bormioli Rocco’s jars (bormiolirocco. com) were crafted with food in mind. The decorative glass inlay— complete with a beehive, butterflies, and grapevines—and one-part lid place them in a category of their own. Perfect for canned items that don’t require processing. These jars are easy to use and also look great housed with various items on open shelves. Plus, the Italians did it right, making a BPA-free lid seal. How-To: I use Quattro Stagioni jars for refrigerator pickles and jams, and for storing raw honey harvested from the hive. For refrigerator pickles, sterilize your jars and fill them with veggies and herbs. Prepare your salt brine on the stove and pour it into the jar, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Then pop your jars in the fridge for two weeks, turning them every few days to incorporate the brine and to set the flavor. For water-bath canning, sterilize and fill the jars, wipe the jar rims, screw on the lids until they stop spinning, and then process them

accordingly. The jar is sealed when an indentation appears on the lid. Pros

Cons

•

Made in Parma, Italy, with a BPA-free design that’s family safe.

•

The one-part lid provides easy • access to stored items.

Wasteful—the lids need to be tossed after only one use.

•

You can purchase them online • from Amazon, Target, or Bed Bath and Beyond.

Quattro Stagioni jars aren’t USDA approved, again due to lack of U.S. testing.

The jars are not supported for use in a pressure canner (water bath only).

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LUIGI BORMIOLI LOCK-EAT A relatively new kid on the block (launched in 2016), Luigi Bormioli’s Lock-Eat jars (luigibormioli.com) are fashioned from vintage bail-wire canning jars. The stylish design and Pyrex-like build of these Italian-crafted jars make the investment worthwhile. With the user in mind, Lock-Eat jars work brilliantly for both canning and storing: They stack neatly on top of each other with rimmed lids; the wire bails are easy to undo and remove; and the rubber gaskets stay in place after opening. Move over Weck (sorry), you’re Italian counterpart is here! How-To: Canning with Luigi Bormioli’s jars is similar to the Weck process. Sterilize all the jars and parts in the dishwasher. Fill the jars to the bottom of the glass band that encircles it. Wipe the rims clean and position the rubber gaskets on the lids, making sure *Note: As with all glass canning to orient the tabs jars, make sure to run your finger opposite the latch. around the rim of both the lid and Lock the bails, and the jar to check for cracks or chips process the jars for the before using. recommended time.

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Don’t like to can? Lock-Eat jars are freezer and microwave safe, too.

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Unlike the old-school bailwire jars, both the lids and wires are removable for ease of cleaning.

Cons •

•

Luigi Bormioli’s self-stacking design saves on storage space.

The Italian-made jars are costly, but worth every penny.

•

Lock-Eat jars come in a

Lock-Eat jars are heavier than most canning and storing jars.

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AN APPLE A DAY Seasonal Eating Turns Medicinal By Jonah Lisa Dyer // Photography by Paulette Phlipot

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

ust down the road from my house in Victor, on the way to town, stands a lone apple tree. It’s my friend Jenny’s tree—her Grandma Ruby’s at one time—and my seasonal bellwether. In late September, when the fruit is pink and ripe and the branches are beginning to sag, I know summer is truly over and autumn has arrived. Nobody in Jenny’s family can remember how old the tree really is or when it finally decided to bear fruit, but Jenny started harvesting apples from it when her three grown sons where just little squirts. They’d drive to Grandma Ruby’s tree and set up a ladder in the bed of their pick-up. Then they’d gather as many apples as they could, while eating their fill. Back home, Jenny used her grandmother’s apple sieve to make homemade applesauce that the kids would eat throughout the fall. This sweet memory and family tradition is one her children carry with them now that they’re older. And it’s a healthy one, too. Long before health food was a thing or people were eating paleo, keto, or vegan, apples were the real deal. In fact, the phrase “An apple a day keeps the doctor away” has its roots in a popular 1800s Welsh proverb: “Eat an apple on going to bed, and you’ll keep the

doctor from earning his bread.” But the health benefits of apples were discovered long before that. Ancient Anglo-Saxons and Romans may not have had any idea what antioxidants, phytonutrients, flavonoids, and dietary fibers were (apples have them all), but they knew, through experience and instinct, that apples were just plain good for your body. “Apples are a nutritional powerhouse,” says local nutrition and health coach Cynthia Clausen. “Their high fiber slows down the absorption of sugar, which can help with obesity-related problems like heart disease, stroke, and diabetes.” Apples, she says, are a close number two, just behind berries, for phytonutrients, which act as antioxidants and fight free radicals. “Our molecules oxidize over time, just like a car or bike will rust if it’s left outside. When our molecules oxidize, we can get anything like wrinkles (from the breaking down of skin cells) to certain cancers. Apples provide the phytonutrients our bodies need to protect our DNA molecules from oxidation.” Apples even show up in ancient Ayurveda. Local Ayurvedic practitioner Suzanne Leusch of Victor

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

explains why: “Due to their astringent and cooling nature they can be cleansing to the palate and scraping to the digestive system.” According to Ayurvedic teachings, the health benefits you reap from apples depend on your body’s individual nature, or dosha. “Eaten raw, in excess, may not be the best for those who are [already] dry and cold themselves,” she says. But add cinnamon or cardamom (warming spices) and stew them, and apples become soothing to cooler body constitutions, aiding in both digestion and elimination. “Apples dispel the excessive heat in the body that accumulates during the hot summer months,” Leusch explains. “For this reason, they are the perfect food as summer turns to fall. Nature always provides an appropriate antidote.” “Fruits and vegetables ripen when we are perfectly ready to eat them,“ agrees Clausen. “In the fall, we need the sugars from apples, berries, root vegetables, and nuts and seeds to store energy for the winter. In the spring and summer we need greens to cleanse our systems.” While Western medicine looks at diet and disease from a completely different perspective, it reaches the same conclusion. A 2008 study in the Journal of Food Science suggests a daily diet that includes apples can play an important role in reducing neurodegenerative disorders like Alzheimer’s disease. A 2011 Dutch study found that eating apples might help prevent strokes by as much as 52 percent. And Florida State University researchers called apples a “miracle fruit” after discovering older women had 23 percent less LDLs (bad cholesterol) and 4 percent more HDLs (good cholesterol) after just six months of eating them. “It’s amazing how beneficial apples are to your health,” Clausen says. “The newest studies also show they have a great effect on your gut by increasing your good bacteria.” It’s been proven that chemical messages produced by bacteria in the gut can kick-start the process that ultimately turns certain

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Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

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CURRIED CHICKEN SOUP WITH APPLES AND LEEKS —

3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces or 1 whole chicken, quartered Salt and pepper

1 cup local mushrooms, sliced

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2 tart apples (like Granny Smiths) cored, peeled, and cut into ½-inch cubes

5 tablespoons butter, divided

1 cup apple juice

3 leeks, cut lengthwise, washed, and thinly sliced (include 1-inch of green)

3 cups chicken broth

½ cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon curry powder ½ cup heavy cream

1. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. 2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a soup pot or Dutch oven. Add the chicken, skin down, and cook for 8 minutes. Turn the chicken and lightly brown other side for 5 minutes. Remove chicken from the pot and set aside. 3. Add another 2 tablespoons butter to the pot (if needed) and sauté the leeks and mushrooms for 5 minutes, over medium heat, until soft but not browned. 4. Add the chicken back into the pot. Add the apples, apple juice, apple cider vinegar, and broth. 5. Bring everything to a slow simmer. Cover and simmer gently until chicken is completely cooked, 10 to 15 minutes. (Use a ladle to skim fat or froth that rises to the top.) 6. Remove chicken, let cool, discard skin, and pull the meat away from the bone. Shred the meat into 1/2-inch pieces and return it to the pot. 7. In a small saucepan whisk 1 tablespoon curry into 1 tablespoon melted butter; incorporate on medium heat, until fragrant. Stir the mixture into the soup. 8. Add the heavy cream. Bring the soup to a simmer, season it with salt and pepper to taste, and cook for approximately 2 more minutes. 9. Divide the soup evenly into bowls and serve with toasted 460Bread.

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YOGAHEALER’S STEWED APPLES —

1 apple, cored, peeled, and chopped in ½-inch cubes ¼ cup water Cinnamon 1. 2. 3.

Simmer all ingredients in a small covered saucepan until they reach the softness of your liking. Remove from heat and allow mixture to rest. Serve over oatmeal for breakfast or vanilla ice cream for dessert. (This last suggestion is not particularly Ayurvedic or healthy, but it’s incredibly delicious).

Note: Consider other tasty (and healing) additions like 1 tablespoon butter or ghee, 5 whole cloves, a handful of raisins, or a few slices of fresh ginger. *Recipe borrowed from Cate Stillman’s Seasonal Detox Diet (yogahealer.com)

genes on or off—like those responsible for breast cancer or being overweight. Now that’s big medicine.” So digest the information however you prefer: pithy homespun sayings, ancient Hindu medical systems, the advice of a seasoned health coach, or peer-reviewed scientific studies—they all agree. Apples do the body good. And there’s no better time than now to conduct some personal research, as the sun is shifting in the sky, the winds are changing, and autumn is upon us again. I don’t have a cherished family apple tree or a special applesauce recipe like Jenny, but my family has built a wonderful tradition of our own around her tree. After school is back in session each fall, on our way home we slide up next to the apple tree and roll down the car windows. The kids lean out—arms reaching—and each picks one perfectly ripe apple. An after-school snack straight off the tree is a special memory I hope they’ll have forever. I know Jenny approves, and I like to think Grandma Ruby would, too. tf 18

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

NAVIGATING FERTILITY By Melissa Snider

“I

remember thinking, It’s no big deal, we’re ready whenever,” recalls Jackson resident Deb Keenan.

Deb and her husband Peter always wanted to be parents. But when one of Keenan’s friends shared the news of her second pregnancy, Deb struggled to feel happy for her. Instead she was frustrated at not yet being pregnant herself. “You feel like your body has betrayed you,” she explains. “Switching your mindset from ‘I don’t want to be pregnant’ to ‘I do’ is very abrupt and not natural to our species,” says Dr. Giovannina Anthony, M.D., an OB/GYN at Women’s Health and Family Care in Jackson. According to Anthony, 85 percent of women who are 35 or younger and who have no obvious reason to be infertile will conceive within 12 months, and an even higher percentage—95 percent—will conceive within two years. Maternal age is the most common infertility factor Anthony sees in couples she treats. Thirty percent of couples have a male factor for infertility. Another 30 percent never discover a specific reason for their infertility. Some couples conceive a first child without issue but then can’t get pregnant or carry a second baby to term, a problem known as “secondary infertility.” Infertility of any kind takes a physical, mental, emotional, and financial toll on couples. “A lot of couples have more than one issue,” says Anthony. “Fertility and the path to parenthood is unique to every couple—you have to consider all the pieces of the puzzle.” The Puzzling Path to Parenthood Doctors determine a couple’s risk of infertility by coupling the patient’s age with the time spent trying to conceive. A woman 35 or younger should visit her doctor after one year of unprotected sex without pregnancy. If she’s older than 35, the “trying” period shrinks to 6 months. An infertility workup involves a semen analysis of the male partner, ovulation verification of the female partner, evaluating hormone levels related to egg production, and checking for tubal disease. About 30 percent of patients under 35 will have no abnormalities and may receive an oral medication to recruit extra follicles (i.e. eggs), improving the chance of conception.

Jackson medical offices service patients with ovulation induction and intrauterine insemination (or IUI, aka “The Turkey Baster”). But if a couple needs or wants to pursue in vitro fertilization (IVF), their closest option for treatment is Idaho Falls. Many couples choose to visit specialized clinics in Salt Lake City, Bozeman and Denver who partner with local offices to provide some of their treatments in town. If all of this sounds a little impersonal … it can be. “There’s a typical path followed in Western medicine which involves a checklist,” says Whitney Fessler, owner of Grand Teton Acupuncture. “So many women turn into numbers.” That said, Fessler feels that practitioners in the Jackson community provide “a nice combination” of options. Fessler works closely with local doctors and is certified through the American Board of Oriental Reproductive Medicine. She digs in a little bit more and treats fertility issues with both holistic techniques and acupuncture. Fessler starts by evaluating the stress level of each partner, reviewing the couple’s blood work, and checking for obvious problems with hormone levels. Acupuncture may help regulate women’s menstrual cycles, increase blood flow to the ovaries, and, according to Fessler, increases IVF success rates 50 percent when used as a combined treatment. Though many health practitioners focus on women’s fertility, everyone knows making a baby takes two. Nutrition therapy practitioner Tanya Mark of Tanya Mark Mind Body Nutrition stresses that both partners need to consider their diet. “The quality of the sperm and the egg can be hugely related to how you’re nourishing yourself,” she explains. Fessler also acknowledges, “Women have to go through so much—shots, pills, ultrasounds, poking, and prodding—they can feel a little resentful; and men can feel helpless if they’re not identified as an issue.” An Invisible Roller Coaster “The extremes are part of the challenge,” says Keenan. “You have a really crazy relationship with your cycle; getting your period feels like the worst ... but also like a fresh possibility.” Mark estimates that 25 pecent of her clients visit her for fertility Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

issues. She encourages couples to look beyond nutrition and into lifestyle. “Take a look at your daily routine,” she says. “For most of us, it’s not relaxed and is over-the-top.” Citing Dr. Claudia Welch, author of Balance Your Hormones, Balance Your Life, Mark reminds us that our bodies will always prioritize our reserves of cortisol (the hormone released in response to real or perceived dangers). This takes precedence over the hormones needed for fertility and digestion. When we overproduce cortisol, it’s at the expense of progesterone, which normally helps keep estrogen in check. This can create a hormone imbalance and contribute to infertility. “It’s more than just your diet,” she says. “It’s how you’re nourishing your whole self, as a couple.”

“Fertility and the path to parenthood is unique to every couple—you have to consider all the pieces of the puzzle.” – Dr. Giovannina Anthony, M.D. In addition to stress reduction, Mark strongly recommends couples focus on food quality. The Environmental Working Group provides lists of the “Clean Fifteen,” conventional produce that is relatively free from harmful chemicals, the “Dirty Dozen,” produce treated with large amounts of chemicals and pesticides, and guidelines for quality proteins. Mark explains that it’s helpful if couples book an appointment with her approximately three months prior to trying to conceive so they can work together on the health

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

of the couple. “Nutrition is a big piece,” she explains. Fessler also mentions that partners can benefit from acupuncture treatments that regulate the body before trying to concieve. “[Using] herbs and acupuncture is sometimes enough,” she explains. Riding a mostly invisible roller coaster while life goes on around you often causes couples to feel alone. “You can, very easily, start to isolate yourself,” says Keenan, who encourages couples to share their journey with close friends. The Keenans ultimately opted for IVF and were devastated when their first two viable embryos stopped dividing the very morning they were scheduled for implantation. They grieved deeply over the loss of their potential pregnancy. “Everything—your marriage, your finances—becomes exhausted,” she says. The Ultimate Question Dr. Anthony’s primary question to any couples (especially those experiencing difficulty getting pregnant) is, “Do you want to be parents?” If their answer is “yes,” she reminds them of the many ways to achieve that goal. Through medical intervention, an embryo donor, or adoption, couples can go on to experience parenthood. “Your fertility journey ends up being a magnifying glass—it intensifies your life,” says Keenan. After 3 1/2 years and two rounds of IVF, the couple celebrated the birth of their daughter on Mother’s Day 2014. Reproductive medicine made parenthood possible for them. She offers one final piece of advice to couples who are just starting to research infertility treatment: “Don’t be afraid of what you don’t know. Be empowered by what you can know. And then ask yourself, ‘What is my courageous choice?’” tf

ADOPTION AT A GLANCE —

“Every single adoption is a relationship,” says Jackson resident Nicki McDermott.

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She and her husband Brendan have two daughters they adopted through the Wyoming and Colorado Children’s Society (coloradocs.org). This organization, an evolution of the oldest nonprofit adoption agency in the state of Wyoming, provides pregnancy support services, domestic infant, waiting child, and inter-country adoption services in Wyoming. On the road to adoption, the McDermotts first completed an extensive list of questions on “parenting philosophies.” Then they provided fingerprints, federal background checks, and financial information to prove they could support a child. Finally, an employee of the agency completed a home visit. Once approved, the McDermotts’ profile was shared with potential adoptive mothers. The adoption agency spends a lot of time with birth parents. “From the very beginning, they’re trying to help the birth mother make the choice that’s right for her, and also do the right thing for the baby,” says Nicki. The birth mother decides whether she prefers an open, semi-open, or closed adoption, and is given twenty-four hours after the baby is born to officially relinquish her parental rights. Within six months after bringing a child home, the agency conducts another home visit before finalizing the adoption. “If you’ve experienced infertility issues, you’ve already given in to the fact that so much is out of your control,” says McDermott. “You can’t control how long the [adoption] process takes and you can’t control whether a birth parent chooses you. So bring your very best self to the process and try to be patient. Every experience is really unique.”

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Adoption Glossary domestic adoption: The placement of U.S.-born babies for adoption by their birth parents, who legally consent to both the adoption and the family of their choice. waiting child adoption: The placement of children in need (often survivors of abuse and neglect) with capable forever families. These children are often “waiting” in foster homes and are considered more difficult to place based on their age or a range special needs, which can include keeping them together with siblings. open adoption: The birth parent requests ongoing communication and visitation with the adoptive family and child. semi-open adoption: The birth parent desires to meet the adoptive family and receive letters and photographs; identifying information is limited. closed adoption: The birth parent doesn’t wish to meet or select the adoptive family.

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PUTTING YOUR GARDEN TO REST a Zen-like Fall Practice

By Andrea Swedberg

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

t’s not uncommon to hear someone say, when referring to our mountain home, “Spring and fall look the same around here.”

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And it’s true. Early snows collect in the nooks and crannies of leafless aspen groves in the fall, and residual patches cling to the same spots in the spring. Yet, we are so lucky to have our winter weather patterns: moderate to heavy snowfall, settling deep into the remote mountain crags and crevasses. As it melts, it results in a delicious profusion of wildflowers and the crystal clear waters that rush and meander into our local waterways – “a fountain of youth” that our own flowers and vegetables get to drink from.

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As fall approaches and the water pulls back, home gardeners adopt the concept of “fall clean, spring gleam.” Simply put, this means emptying our gardens of spent flower stalks and pesky weeds in fall so our gardens are well groomed for spring’s arrival. This practice is not only a healthy garden preparation for spring, but it can also be a meditative closure to our never-long-enough growing season. Why Clean in the Fall? I prefer to clean my beds in the fall for a couple of reasons. First, it helps minimize the potential of harboring weed seeds, plant disease, and pests—all of which can live (warm and protected) in the subnivean quarters of snow, matted leaves, and stalks. Secondly, it makes spring growth easy to spot when perusing beds in that hunched-over-slow-creep-through-the-garden type of walk in hope of seeing something—anything—green sprouting in the flower bed. Come March, April, and even into May, snowfall still graces the valley floor. But to see those first brave perennials push their leaves out from underneath it truly is the most exciting way to witness Mother Nature do her thing. Cutting Back: What to Cut and by How Much Not every variety of plant (perennials, climbers, or flowering shrub) wants or needs to be cut all the way back in the fall. However, most perennials don’t mind at all. Oriental poppies, columbine, penstemon, and yarrow are such prolific growers and bloomers; removing their plant material down to about two or three inches in height makes a world of difference in spring. When talking climbers, clematis and bines such as hops grow on last year’s vine, as they prefer not to start from the ground up every year. For these lovelies, cut back one-third of their summer growth for a good base come spring. (However, it’s best to research the needs of your specific plant before whacking it back.) Pay close attention to lilacs. They need to be cut back right after their spring bloom, rather than in the fall. If you make the mistake of pruning them this fall, you may cut off their setting flower buds, resulting in little to no flowering in season. So just leave them be. Because, quite frankly, spring just isn’t spring without lilacs!

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Weeding: Zen and the Art of Gardening There comes a point toward the end of summer when the mightiest and most dreaded daily task is weeding. This is when I focus my attention on the beds only, because everywhere else broadleaves and grasses invade all other open patches of dirt—overnight, it seems. I have to say that I don’t love the proliferation of, say, dandelions. Still, if I keep the flower heads mowed, the green leaves are at least

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Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

soft to walk on. And they’re edible, too, so I try to not spray them. Let’s be realistic: If a group of deer cruises through my yard, I’d rather they dine on my collection of dandelions than my roses, my herbs, or my apple tree. Bulbs and Amendments What I love most about gardening is the planning and anticipation of seeing my visions come to life the next season. And at the top of that anticipatory prep list lands spring’s first flowers: bulbs. (Of course there are fall-blooming bulbs, as well.) I like to work bulbs, versus annuals, into the empty spaces in my beds. Nothing against annuals—pansies and violas actually tend to be hardy annuals in zones 3 and 4—I just prefer a little more bang for my buck. So I reserve annuals for container gardening only. To plant bulbs, dig out the designated depths (a good rule of thumb is to dig a hole three times the height of the bulb), toss in some bone meal (a natural slow-release fertilizer), place the bulb in root-side-down, top ’er off with dirt and wait, like, six months. When deciding where to place bulbs, keep in mind that they do have an expiration date when they’ll need to be dug up and replanted with a new batch. Since every precious moment you spend gardening results in healthy plants that flower, a little extra help might not be so bad. For this, I call in a fall soil amender or top dressing, like bark and steer manure or compost. Soil pep and other barkchip material works well here, too. After trimming back summer’s

growth, weeding, and planting bulbs, dress each bed with an inch or two of top dressing. What you use depends on what you grow. For instance, I use soil pep in all of my flowerbeds and in tree wells. But for strawberries I’ll top dress with bark and steer manure. Most of these materials are available bagged or in bulk, depending on how much you need. Composting Aside from my gloves, tubs, weeding tool, and shovel, my wheelbarrow is my most treasured tool. Frankly, nothing gets done without it—which includes composting. There is a patch in my backyard where loads of green and woody yard waste live. Old annuals, spent veggie plants, grass, and branches all make great compost. Not welcome here are any plants you cut out of your bed that contain disease (like a powdery mildew) or pests (like aphids) and any noxious weeds. Burn those instead. Grab information online or at your local nursery on specific composting guidelines. But the big “no’s” to leave out are: proteins (including meat, dairy, and bone), oily food or grease, animal waste, and, a big “no” to anything treated with pesticides. Hanging out in my garden makes me calm and relaxed—and it also conjures up creativity. It’s a favorite place to watch the sunrise and the sunset; it’s a cool respite from a hot summer spell; and it’s the perfect place to chill with my family and pets. Putting it all to rest in the fall and knowing that it’s covered and happy under the season’s snowfall makes spring well deserved after enduring the long winter. tf

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Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

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Open shelves above counter-level create a light feel and a more uplifting kitchen.

t’s a common dilemma: You want to feed your family healthy food, but at 6:00 on a weeknight, with no meal plan and no groceries at home, the lure of convenience becomes hard to resist. It’s just easier to stop for takeout or to resort to a microwave meal. You assuage your guilt with asserted intentions to do some menu planning and food prep over the coming weekend. Jackson architect Veronica Schreibeis Smith knows the feeling well. As a busy professional and mother, she chased the desire to eat clean for several years, searching for simple ways to incorporate more wholesome nutrition into her lifestyle—to make it a habit. She’s now leading a global trend toward “wellness kitchens,” spaces designed to make it easy to optimally store and prepare fresh, nourishing foods. Schreibeis Smith believes that healthy mealtime rituals feed the mind and soul as well as the body.

“BEING WELL” Starts in the Kitchen

The New Modern As CEO of Vera Iconica Architecture and chair of the Global Wellness Institute’s Wellness Architecture Initiative, Schreibeis Smith understands the effects of the built environment on wellbeing. But “modern” kitchens, which essentially date back to the post-World War II era (albeit with some cosmetic upgrades), do little to support a healthy lifestyle. She envisions a different approach with her Vera Iconica Kitchen. She focuses on creating a space that feels like a sanctuary at the beginning or end of a busy day, so cooking

By Deb Barracato // Photography by Greg Von Doersten Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

becomes an act of rejuvenation rather than a chore. In a Vera Iconica Kitchen, uncluttered surfaces provide plenty of space for shared effort, and comfortable seating invites non-cooks to gather, turning the kitchen into the home’s social center as well. Though many elements are still in the conceptual stage, the comprehensive design replaces the dark pantry that encourages long-term storage of preservative-laden packaged foods with taskoriented, glass-fronted cabinets to inspire consumption of fresh foods. Instead of depending on a refrigerator to store perishable fruits and vegetables, where the cold, dark conditions rapidly degrade their quality, Vera Iconica Kitchen cabinets include temperature- and humidity-controlled zones to hold living or dormant foods at the peak of nutrition. Her rendering of a kitchen that functions for a modern lifestyle even includes a small greenhouse or growing zone, with a composting appliance inspired by a conventional trash compactor. Schreibeis Smith’s kitchen is, notably, without a microwave, an appliance she feels promotes consumption of processed convenience foods and degrades the nutritional value of fresh foods with radiation. She also intentionally eliminates closed upper cabinets to add a psychological lightness to the space—a perception that mimics the feel you get from fresh foods, she explains. It Starts with Intention As many big ideas do, Schreibeis Smith’s concept of the Vera Iconica Kitchen started with one fairly straightforward desire: She wanted to eliminate harmful food additives and preservatives from her diet. She grew up in a typical suburban house with a standard American kitchen. Her mother grocery-shopped for the family of 26

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

six just once or twice Architect Veronica Schreibeis Smith (left) worked a month. Canned and with locals Travis Rice and Evan Mack (right) to frozen foods, along transform their kitchen into a “wellness kitchen.” with heavily processed pantry staples, made up the bulk of their meals. As she got older, Schreibeis Smith realized she wanted to take a different approach to her diet. She wanted to fill her plate with nutritious, living foods in as close to their natural state as possible. She started by pulling everything from her pantry and cupboards and reading all of the labels. Then she set about replacing everything that had an ingredient she did not recognize or could not pronounce with a better alternative. “There are better options for just about everything,” she says, “but you have to be informed about your choices.” As an example, she points to almond milk, widely hyped as a healthy food. “If you look at the back label [of some brands], it has thickeners and preservatives and things you don’t want to go into your body.” Small Steps Toward a Big Shift You can incorporate the principles behind the Vera Iconica Kitchen design into your existing space, too, without knocking down walls or ripping out cabinetry. Schreibeis Smith encourages you to start with small steps. In collaboration with her sister, Ariela Schreibeis, who operates a lifestyle consulting business in Jackson called Clean Clarity, Schreibeis Smith helps clients build a healthier, sustainable relationship with food. She understands that while many people don’t have kitchen remodels or new home construction in their

Urgent Care immediate plans, wellness architecture, as with human health, succeeds best with a holistic approach. This includes caring for the environment, she notes. If it’s good for your health, it’s probably good for the environment, and vice versa.

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Look at retraining your grocery shopping habits first, she recommends. This begins with the simple switch to reusable grocery bags, a small, easily achievable goal that sets the framework for other meaningful changes. Then start to eliminate packaging when you can, which naturally leads to purchasing greater quantities of fresh foods. When you find yourself automatically shopping the perimeter of the grocery store and heading to the checkout stand with a cart primarily full of whole fruits and vegetables, you might consider investing in a Vitamix or other powerful blender.

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“You have to shift your mentality before you buy tools, because they’re only a good investment if you’re going to use them,” she says. At home, display sturdy fruits and vegetables in pretty bowls on the counter to encourage healthy snacking. Purchase living herbs or keep cut ones fresh in a small vase filled with water. Wash and prep a variety of vegetables and store them on the top shelf of the refrigerator in clear glass containers instead of buried in a crisper drawer. Clear your pantry or cupboards of low-quality canned goods, and use the space to store bulk purchases in clear glass jars and anything otherwise cluttering your countertops. By making small but steady changes, healthy eating becomes more than just a diet approach. It becomes a wellness lifestyle rooted in the daily rhythms of healthy kitchen rituals. tf

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Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

FIGHTING THE Kitchen Slump One Cookbook at a Time Story and photographs by Paulette Phlipot

“It’s 2018 and you mean to tell me that you are still collecting cookbooks?” asks my friend Luke as he reaches for seconds of roasted potatoes.

remind me how fabulous it is for organizing recipes and making grocery lists.

From across the table, Alison puts down her wine glass and jumps in. “Don’t you just search the internet for recipes? Everyone does. It’s the only way I find them.”

Well, for one obvious reason: I cook all the time and am always in need of new ideas. No matter how deep I dive into the digital realm, physical cookbooks will always hold a place in my heart. (And in my kitchen!) There is something about the tangibility of holding a cookbook in hand, flipping the pages, and stumbling upon recipes that I wouldn’t even think to look up online. Cookbooks are more than just a collection of recipes, they tell a story— often about a place or a person—and they do so, sometimes, through the simple organization of recipes.

We were enjoying my friends Sarah and Mike’s school auction bid of a dinner cooked in their kitchen by a local private chef. The evening started with ten of us huddled around the kitchen island as a chef prepared the meal, teaching us tricks and techniques along the way. This led to quite the lively conversation, naturally centered on food and eating. The discussion went on for hours. Full from the exquisite meal, I went home with the cookbook question echoing in my head. It’s not that I don’t use the internet to find recipes. In fact, I rely on Pinterest to keep all of my digital favorites organized. I've even toyed with the idea of getting the Paprika app, as several friends incessantly

So why do I continue to add more cookbooks to my collection?

I also find comfort in the fact that recipes published in a book have gone through extensive curation and testing before they reach the reader. This is especially important when trying out a new recipe on my patient (yet hungry) husband and daughter. Some

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

N OT E:

Double the ba tch and store them in the fridge or freezer. Then pair them with a big m ug of tea wh en you’re startin g to drag— you’ll want to have plenty on hand.

WALNUT ORANGE GLOBES Makes about 1 5 balls —

The citrus in these brain-boosting globes not only creates the most amazing flavor, but the smell energizes you and encourages concentration. Combined with walnuts and hemp hearts, this quick snack will fuel your afternoon.

— ½ ½ ¾ ¼ 1 ¼ 2 1.

cup raw walnuts cup raw almonds tablespoon raw honey or maple syrup teaspoon Valencia orange zest tablespoon fresh Valencia orange juice teaspoon lemon zest Pinch of fine sea salt or pink salt Almond milk or water, if needed tablespoons hemp hearts, for rolling

Pulse the walnuts and almonds in a food processor to form a crumbly mixture of small chunks. Add the honey, orange zest and juice, lemon zest, and salt and blend. The mixture should stick together when pinched between your fingers. Add a splash of almond milk or water, if needed. Pour the hemp hearts into a shallow plate. Using a small cookie scoop or teaspoon, scoop the nut mixture and form it into balls, then roll each ball in the hemp hearts. Place the balls on a parchment-lined plate and chill for 30 minutes before serving. Store the balls in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week or in the freezer for 3 months.

3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

(From Good Clean Food by Lily Kunin, Abrams Books, 2017)

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

ZEST & JUICE

books are created from popular food blogs, too, simplifying the task of sifting through hundreds of recipes on a favorite website. Only the best of the site are chosen for the book. And this narrows down the hard part—deciding what to make. And though it may sound counterintuitive, cookbooks help me with time management. Prioritizing and protecting my meal-prep time helps me maintain the health of my family (and I often joke that it also protects my mental health). A million other things could easily get in the way of cooking time and give me every excuse to buy prepackaged meals instead of making them from scratch with whole, unaltered ingredients. So before I dive into the dinner routine, I put

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everything digital away and remind myself that good health (both physical and mental) involves carving out time to control what we put in our bodies. This mantra helps me slow down and embrace the process. Despite the surplus of online recipes, publishing houses still produce print cookbooks. And they’re more beautiful than ever, really—offering much more than just recipes. Now, I don’t suggest buying every newly released cookbook out there. However, I do think it’s important to find a chef, food writer, or nutritionist who creates recipes that foster the way you want to eat. And make sure that the book aligns with your philosophies. For me, simple and delicious recipes made from real food ingredients support my values. See page 36 for a few of my favorites...

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Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

CRISPY BROCCOLI, PEPPER, AND BURRATA SHEET PAN DINNER Se rves 4 —

For this recipe, look for crusted bread with a squishy middle. Anything too dense will not crisp up or brown nicely. Also, use a rimmed baking sheet; otherwise the contents may slide off into the oven.

—

1½ 2 1 1 3 8 8 ¼ ½

pounds broccoli florets from 2 generous broccoli heads (about 9 cups) large bell peppers, seeded and sliced into ½-inch strips can quartered artichoke hearts, drained lemon, sliced tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ounces soft French bread, cut into 1-inch cubes ounces burrata or fresh mozzarella cheese cup pine nuts, toasted cup fresh basil leaves, torn

1. 2.

3. 4. 5. 6.

7. 8. 9.

Preheat your oven to 425°F, with a rack positioned toward the top. Toss the broccoli, bell peppers, artichokes, lemon, 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast, tossing once, until the broccoli and peppers are just tender, 20 to 24 minutes. Toss the bread with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Scatter the bread cubes evenly over the vegetables. Return the baking sheet to the oven and roast until the bread cubes are golden brown and crispy on the outside and the vegetables are fork-tender, 14 to 18 minutes more. Using your hands, shred the burrata into bite-size pieces and scatter over the baking sheet. Sprinkle the pine nuts and basil over the top and season with additional salt and pepper, if you like. Serve immediately.

*Add meat on the side for extra protein (From Healthyish by Lindsay Maitland Hunt, Abrams Books, 2017)

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

POLLO EN JOCON Se rves 6 - 8 —

This chicken stew from the Cobán region of Guatemala is traditionally served over rice with warm corn tortillas. It can be prepared ahead of time, chilled, and reheated before serving. It also freezes beautifully for up to two months, as does the leftover chicken broth.

—

1 2 6 20 ½ 1 1 2 1 1 1.

3- to 4-pound chicken scallions, white and green parts garlic cloves Salt and freshly ground black pepper large tomatillos, cleaned of husks, rinsed, and dried large yellow onion, cut into thick slices green bell pepper, quartered and seeded plum tomato Serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut in half lengthwise bunch cilantro (about 3 cups, packed) tablespoon vegetable oil

Place the chicken in a large pot with the scallions and 2 of the garlic cloves and cover with cold water. Add a generous pinch of salt and pepper and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface.

DEDICATED TO YOUR ACTIVE LIFESTYLE

Reduce the heat to medium-low (it should still be bubbling, but not vigorously) and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes; the legs and wings should come off easily when grabbed with tongs. 3. Remove the chicken and reserve the liquid. 4. Let the chicken cool, then remove and discard the skin and bones and shred the meat (you should have about 7 cups). 5. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the tomatillos, onion, bell pepper, tomato, Serrano chiles, and the remaining 4 garlic cloves. Roast them until they are charred all over. 6. Transfer them to a large bowl as they’re done. 7. Working in batches in a blender, purée the roasted vegetables and cilantro with enough chicken broth (about 1/4 cup) to blend smoothly; it should be about the consistency of salsa. 8. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat. Add the tomatillo sauce (careful, it will splatter) and stir well. 9. Reduce the heat and simmer the sauce for 5 minutes; it will darken slightly. 10. Add the cooked chicken and 1 cup chicken broth, stir well, and simmer the stew for 15 minutes. 11. Serve over steamed brown rice. (From Nourished: A Memoir of Food, Faith & Enduring Love (with Recipes) by Lia Huber, Penguin Random House LLC, 2017)

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Interactive after-school programs for grades K - 12 36

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

NourisheD A Memoir of Food, Faith & Enduring Love

b y Lia Hub e r This is not really a cookbook, although there is a recipe at the end of each chapter. It’s more a memoir about Huber’s travels and explorations of life in which she also piques your appreciation for culture, food, and nourishment. It’s hard to put this book down— Huber makes you want to cook. And as you make her recipes, you feel the connection to the people and the places discussed throughout her story. You can actually experience the Thanksgiving when she and her husband Christopher sat on the floor together, eating Pollo En Jocon (the Guatemalan stew recipe on page 35) by candlelight while waiting to meet their newly adopted daughter.

Good Clean Food Super Simple Plant-Based Recipes for Every Day

b y Lily Ku n i n This vibrant cookbook covers the basics using beans, grains, lentils, dressings, salsas, and pestos. It will inspire you to make every dinner “build your own bowl” night. I love the recipe for Blueberry-Lime Chia Pops (it’s the best homemade popsicle recipe ever—and I have made a lot). And for an on-the-go snack that’s not filled with sugar, colors, or preservatives, the Walnut Orange Globes included in this article (page 30) do not disappoint. Not all the recipes in this book are for eating; Kunin works in some selfcare body recipes, as well. Yum!

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Do you have a family member that’s convinced that if a meal is “healthy” it can’t taste good? If so, this cookbook will banish that stigma. Hunt’s recipes are not over-the-top healthy. Instead, they offer a good mix of flavor, balance, and ease. If you are new to the kitchen, there are lists and advice to help guide your way. Hunt’s recipe featured on page 33, Crispy Broccoli, Pepper, and Burrata Sheet Pan Dinner, makes a great main course (you can always add meat on the side for extra protein), while eliminating additional dinner pans at the same time. tf

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

SHEEPING By Christina Shepherd McGuire // Photography by Camrin Dengel

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

AROUND

...at Lark's Meadow Farms

Fall 2018 Â¤ Teton Family

Kendall Russell, a former dentist, almost bought a boat and sailed the world. Instead, he chased his other passion of cheese making. 40

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

T 1 2 3 4

here are a few things you should know before visiting a fromager, or cheesemaker. Don’t expect to get in and get out. The art of cheesemaking takes time, and the conversation that blossoms around waiting for cheese to come to room temperature is worth it. Pack an extra pair of shoes. You can’t wear the same shoes to both tour the farm and visit the cheese room (impeccable hygiene is crucial). Don’t comb your hair. The humidity in the ripening cellar will only make it frizzy. Arrive on an empty stomach. Cheesemakers take pride in their hospitality, which includes sampling each variety and going home full.

I learned all this when photographer Camrin Dengel and I embarked on a Friday morning outing to Lark’s Meadow Farms—a sheep dairy farm and fromagerie near Rexburg, Idaho. You see, I reserve my Friday mornings for anything that revolves around local food. This includes chatting up farmers at the Driggs Farmers Market, harvesting nettles, dandelion, and other woodland delicacies via mountain bike (my friends all make fun of me), or meeting my local rancher to grab our monthly stock of meat.

Heading out for a hike or other backcountry adventure? Be sure you always carry these items in your backpack! water

food

light

first aid kit

warm clothes

bear spray

fire

phone

ALWAYS Have a plan and tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back. Check the weather forecast. Be willing to turn around. Speak up if you have concerns.

25 20

If you don’t know, don’t go!

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family

“

THERE’S A CLICHÉ IN AMERICAN ARTISAN CHEESE. YOU JUST TAKE FRENCH CHEESE, AND THEN YOU MODEL IT. BUT WE’RE DOING OUR OWN THING.

”

On this special day, however, I was excited to visit Kendall Russell, Head Cheese at Lark’s Meadow Farms, and check out his operation, after years of purchasing his artisanal cheese at the market.

For the Love of Cheese Russell, a former dentist, microbiologist, and army brat from Virginia, almost bought a boat and sailed around the world. But a clandestine stint on eHarmony put a halt to that daydream when he met his wife and farm co-founder Rachael. A long-distance relationship segued into marriage—one that included both a love affair and a fondness for cheese. Soon after their marriage, a friend bought Russell a cheesemaking kit as a gag gift (long story short) and he experimented. “At first, the cheese was horrible,” he admits, “but I kept going with it and got better and better.” Around this same time, his new wife’s parents bought a farm in the Rexburg area, where Russell attended his first two years of college at what was then Ricks College (now BYU Idaho). “They called me up and asked if we’d move back [from Virginia] and run the farm,” he says, noting his father-in-law’s desire to own a working farm rather than a hobby farm. Without hesitation, Russell asked if he could raise sheep and make sheep’s milk cheese, to which his father-in-law replied, “You can make cheese from sheep?” 42

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

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YOU WOULD DOYOU WOULD DO WOULD DO ANYTHING TO YOU ANYTHINGTOTO YOU WOULD DO PROTECT YOURANYTHING PROTECTYOUR YOUR ANYTHING TO CHILD FROM PROTECT But that didn’t last long. CHILDFROM FROM PROTECT YOUR CANCER. BUT CHILD With a skeleton of a farm sitting unused, the couple CANCER.BUT BUT CANCER. CHILDdecided FROM HAVE YOU DONE in 2014 to rent back the land, buy a flock of 24 sheep of their HAVEYOU YOUDONE DONE CANCER. BUT EVERYTHING?HAVE own, and start all over. Today—thanks to sophisticated taste buds EVERYTHING? EVERYTHING? in Jackson Hole and Teton Valley, regional farmersHAVE markets, andDONE YOU local specialty grocers—the Russells have advanced their business EVERYTHING? to its prime. And their cheese, quite frankly, just keeps getting So they bought a flock of sheep from Wisconsin and raised them for milk and meat while also growing barley and wheat to supplement their cash flow. The farm went under in 2012 and Kendall and Rachael moved off the land.

better and better.

A Dying Breed

HPV vaccine is cancer prevention for boys and girls. Just two shots at ages 11-12 provide safe and lasting protection against the infections that cause HPV cancer.

One of the major constraints of a profitable sheep dairy business HPV vaccine is cancer prevention for boys and girls. Just two shots at ages 11–12 is the low milk production of domestically raised breeds. Russell provide safe child’s and lasting protection against the infections that cause HPV cancer. HPV vaccine is cancer prevention for boys and girls. Just shots at ag HPV vaccine is cancer forvaccine. boys and girls. Just twotwo shots at ages Ask your doctor or nurse forprevention the HPV Ask your child’s doctor orprovide nurse for HPV vaccine. provide safe and lasting protection against infections that cause HPc safe and lasting protection against thethe infections that cause HPV explains that the animal’s low efficiency makes it really hard to turn your child’s doctor or nurse HPV vaccine. AskAsk your child’s doctor or nurse forfor HPV vaccine. HPV vaccine is cancer prevention for boys and girls. Just two shots at ages 11–12 a profit. Add to that the demands of running a dairy operation in provide safe and lasting protection against the infections that cause HPV cancer. Teton County Health Department offers the HPV yourFebruary child’s doctor or nurse for HPV vaccine. general—he milks twice a day, at 5:00 a.m. and 3:00Ask p.m. vaccine. For more information or to schedule an through August, his work is round-the-clock, he can’t leave, he’s appointment, call (307) 733-6401. tied to both the land and the animals—and it’s a wonder farmstead vaccine www.cdc.gov/HPV cheese even exists at market. is CANCER PREVENTION www.cdc.g vaccine www.cdc.gov vaccine But let’s talk cows for a second.

vaccine

is CANCER PREVENTION

is CANCER PREVENTION is CANCER PREVENTION

JAN 2017

www.cdc.gov/HPV

Fall 2018 ¤ Teton Family JAN 2017

Many cow breeds produce quality milk in high volume. According to the American Milksheep Association, during a cow’s lactation period of 305 days, she produces roughly 8 gallons of milk a day (for a high-producing Holstein). Conversely, a ewe’s lactation period lasts only 180 days, in which she produces roughly half a gallon of milk a day. To make up for this inefficiency, sheep farmers must milk hundreds of sheep a day to produce enough milk for a marketable supply.

NOT D

Right now, Russell has 200 sheep on his farm and milks 96 of them. By next year he plans to milk 144, and the following year he’s aiming for 216. He does not keep his sheep indoors or give them high-energy feed to up their milk production. Instead, they graze seasonally on fifteen different grasses, enhancing the flavor of his pasture-raised cheese, while giving his lamb meat a taste that’s far from gamey.

Despite Russell’s commitment, unless North American farmers make a concerted effort to develop a robust sheep breed with an efficient milk yield, the domestic sheep dairy industry is a goner. US sheep dairies compete with approximately 100 thousand tons of imported European sheep cheese annually. These subsidized European dairies infiltrate the market with benchmark varieties like Manchego, a cheese Russell says “just sucks.” But he’s destined to keep the dream alive. Last year for the first time, Lark’s Meadow Farms used sheep semen—shipped directly from the Roquefort region of France—to artificially inseminate their ewes, creating a specialized milk product of their own. Breeding sheep whose milk contains a high percentage of milk solids adds to the flavor of Russell’s cheeses, while also allowing him to up production and make a viable living. And then there are regulations. Due to the Food Safety Moderation Act, the cheese industry is heavily regulated, making it one of the safest foods in the county. But for small farmers, navigating the regulatory hurdles and stringent demands involves much more than a basic knack for farming. Russell prides his serendipitous background in science for this reason. “You know the saying, ‘There are things we know and things we don’t know, and there are things we don’t know we don’t know,’” he says. “Well, if you don’t know to be safer than you are, you can’t get any better.” Abiding by the rules doesn’t come without a cost, though— one that’s an added expense to already struggling farms. Take, for instance, Russell’s thistle rennet, a coagulant used in the 44

Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

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cheesemaking process that contributes to the flavor profile. Since thistles grow rampant on the outskirts of his farm property (and in Idaho in general), Russell could, theoretically, make his own rennet. But the cost of testing and certifying it would be prohibitive, so instead he imports thistle rennet from Portugal for thousands of dollars a bucket.

The Texture of Relationships “There’s a cliché in American artisan cheese,” says Russell. “You just take French cheese, and then you model it. But we’re doing our own thing.” That’s where the feedback from the consumer comes in, helping Russell figure out what type of flavors are going to be the most enjoyable with a meal. When customers sample a new cheese at his market stand, Russell can tell if he’s got a winner or not. “I love the farmers markets,“ he says, “People’s faces just melt when they try our cheese.” As he peels the top off a round of soft cheese called San Carlos, Russell goes onto admit that he can’t make a living off of farmers markets alone, even though he values his direct relationship with his customers. So his paperwork for Whole Foods is signed and sealed, just waiting for delivery when the national chain is ready to jump. “Selling to a distributor is like sending your kid off to boarding school,” he admits. But with the help of his intern, Hannah Walker, who’s learning the trade to run her own farm someday, Russell hopes to slowly get bigger without compromising the relationships he has built.

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Lark's Meadow Farms' San Carlos cheese is wholesome and creamy, with just a hint of bitterness from the thistle rennet.

Teton Family Â¤ Fall 2018

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The conversation advanced from distribution and relationships to flavors and textures just in time for us to sample some cheese. The soft San Carlos—the one that Russell had just opened like a package—was creamy and wholesome, with a hint of bitterness from the rennet. It made the perfect specimen for a cool spring day—and one my empty stomach couldn’t get enough of. As we dove into the other two varieties, it was apparent that Russell would never totally relinquish the act of enjoying his cheese alongside companions (the only thing missing was the wine, actually). We sampled his Dulcenea, a hard, sharp cheese modeled after a variety made in the Pyrenees. To me, it had a lemony aftertaste and felt like the steak to the almost heirloom potato-like San Carlos. Utopia—a semi-firm mild cheese fashioned after a P'tit Basque—was the palate cleanser with a taste all its own. We went back and forth between the bitter, sharp, and mellow flavors in a way that felt like we were sampling a presentation of three entirely different types of food.

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Visiting the animals in their space consummated our day at the farm. A crowd of baby lambs surrounded photographer, Camrin Dengel, almost begging to have their picture taken. And they talked to us in a way that seemed almost human. We watched as the flock left the paddocks for pasture. They booked it, actually— running to taste their first nips of fresh spring grass, udders flailing back and forth with each step. I pinched myself, feeling spoiled by the experience of tasting farm-fresh cheese, and also from hanging out with the animals who made it. It reminded me to slow down and savor the quality of such interactions. It’s the same feeling I’ve witnessed from shoppers when they taste Russell’s cheese at the farmers market. And I know it’s the way Russell feels as he interprets their reactions, simultaneously coming up with some original new concoction in his head. The ewes on the farm that day—patiently tending their lambs while relishing the spring greens—show that what goes into making your food matters. And when a farmer goes big on commitment, it’s our responsibility to support their efforts. tf

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Teton Family ¤ Fall 2018

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