Jackson Hole Magazine

magazine

Jackson Hole

SUMMER 2012

From

Yellowstone to the Yukon

Can ecology and economics work together to preserve this special corridor?

LOOKING BACK

[COMPLIMENTARY COPY]

The ’Coach Bar & Band

OUTDOORS

DINING

JH’s Growing Cooking Trail System Cowboys

DESIGN

Contemporary Western

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Above: Interior shot of Trailside Galleries in Jackson Hole. Images from top: Martin Grelle, (1954-), In the Grip of Winter; Frank Tenney Johnson, (1874-1939), North Fork, Shoshone River, Wyoming; Ken Carlson, (1937- ), Yellowstone Excursion.

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SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

Traditional & Contemporary Western Art

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Jackson Hole

Summer 2012

72 Features

48 Over the River and Through the Woods

Jackson Hole’s trail culture

BY KEVIN HUELSMANN

JOE RIIS

Page

P H O T O G A L L E RY

by bradly j. boner

66 Flash Forward See how Yellowstone has withstood the test of time

58 Peaks & Valleys

72 The Dividends of Thinking Big

The Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative is transforming the way the world thinks

By Todd Wilkinson

The ups & downs of Jackson Hole’s economy

BY DINA MISHEV WITH MYLES C. RADEMAN

ON THE COVER: This is South Dakota native Joe Riis’ first cover image for the magazine. The twenty-eight-year-old University of Wyoming graduate and member of the International League of Conservation Photographers spent two years researching where the Grand Teton pronghorn herd crosses the Green River on its annual migration. He figured it out in 2009 and set up five camera traps—hidden remote cameras triggered by motion. “I got thousands of images and maybe five are usable,” Riis says. “This one was a total gift. The look on the doe’s face is a look of determination and then the dark clouds, her shadow, and the evening light … there was a lot of luck involved for sure.”

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

ASHLEY COLLINS

Silas Mixed Media, Oil and Acrylic on Aged Paper, Panel, Hand Fired Resin Finish 60"x 84"

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SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Jackson Hole

Summer 2012

JH Living 18 Tetonscapes

A wild partnership, a scenic marathon, antler arches, and the JH Writers Conference

locals

26 A Vision for the Arts

30

Q&A with Cindee George

By cara rank

28 Quarterback to Quarters

Q&A with Pete Lawton

By cara rank

on the job

30 The Executive Whisperer

Grant Golliher, corporate oracle

By jayme feary

business

How Jackson meets its health needs

BY TRAM WHITEHURST

DESIGN

Best of JH

34 The Business of Health

getting out

99 Packrafting

38 New West

A boat for your back

Cowboy style is getting contemporary

BY FORREST McCARTHY

By DINA MISHEV

104 Learning to Cast

looking back

82 Stagecoach Bar

Secrets of the fly-fishing cast

BY KELSEY DAYTON

Generations of good times

By JIM STANFORD

108 All Downhill from Here

outdoors

90 A Shooter’s Best Friend

Guns get the TLC they need

BY PAUL BRUUN

JHMR is more than skiing

BY BRANDON ZIMMERMAN

BODY & SOUL

BY DINA MISHEV

NIGHTLIFE

BY CARA RANK

DINING

BY LAUREL A. WICKS

Art Scene

112 Saving Face

As the hole deepens 94 True or Tall Tale?

By Tim Sandlin

Caring for your skin in Jackson

115 Chuckwagons

Eat a slice of the Old West

118 Who’s Your Farmer?

Al fresco feasts—in a field

Page

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

99

FORREST McCARTHY

132 Up Close and Personal

The valley’s vibrant art scene

By nicole burdick

150 map of jackson hole 152 Calendar of Events

BRADLY J. BONER

Page

SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Greetings from the Editor VANCE JACOBS

Like most of us in Jackson Hole, I never planned to spend as much time here as I already have. I fell in love with this valley as a wide-eyed and impressionable twelve-year-old driving cross-country with my family.

For the next decade, Jackson Hole figured prominently in my dreams as nothing less than the most beautiful place on the planet. I moved here within weeks of graduating from college. The plan was to stay for a year before going East to law school. That was fifteen(!) years ago and here I still am. And I’m still as enamored—even more so, actually—with the valley as when I first arrived.

While it is the landscape and wildlife that draw most of us here, including upwards of three million visitors annually, Jackson Hole isn’t just a pretty place. The community is every bit as extraordinary as the vistas surrounding it.

This issue of Jackson Hole magazine, the first I had the happy privilege to helm, showcases both the valley’s landscape and the people living in it. Todd Wilkinson, as he has in so many past issues, writes passionately about both in his article, “The Dividends of Thinking Big” (page 72). Wilkinson’s piece tells us about the Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative (Y2Y),

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some of its local partners, and what it means for the valley. Another feature, “Peaks & Valleys” (page 58), shows us that the landscape and community of the valley are inextricably linked: Jackson Hole’s economy depends on the continued health and vitality of the landscape and the wildlife that live in it. The Stagecoach Bar has been a center for the community since it opened in the 1940s. “Whiskey River, Take My Mind,” by Jim Stanford (page 82), looks back at the history of the venerable Wilson watering hole.

When you want to get out and play in the landscape, we’ve got plenty of ideas. Veteran explorer Forrest McCarthy writes about why you should, and how you can, try an easy, new way of adventuring called packrafting (page 99). Kelsey Dayton graciously shares both her fly-fishing foibles and successes with us in “Cast and They Might Come” (page 104). If “All Downhill from Here” (page 108) doesn’t inspire you to try downhill mountain biking, well, nothing will. Although spectating at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s new bike park is perfectly acceptable, too.

Go! JH (page 150) are among my favorite pages in this issue. Illustrator Nate Padavick created a wonderfully fun map of our valley. Along the bottom, we offer up a few of our must-do summer activities.

I hope you don’t just take our suggestions, though. One of the best things about the Jackson Hole landscape and community is that they encourage exploration. So go for it. — Dina Mishev

magazine

Jackson Hole Summer 2012 LifeInTheTetons.com Publisher

Michael Sellett CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

As timeless as a symphony, as beautiful as the Tetons kismet rugs: serving jackson hole since 1990

Kevin Olson Editor

Dina Mishev ART DIRECTOR

Wayne Smith Photo Editor

Bradly J. Boner COPY EDITOR

Pamela Periconi Contributing Writers

Paul Bruun Kelsey Dayton Kevin Huelsmann Mike McCoy Cara Rank Tim Sandlin Tram Whitehurst Todd Wilkinson

Nicole Burdick Jayme Feary Forrest McCarthy Myles Rademan Sarah Reese Jim Stanford Laurel Wicks Brandon Zimmerman

Contributing Photographers

Jonathan Adams Henry H. Holdsworth

Forrest McCarthy

Jenna Schoenefeld

Ashley Wilkerson

Price Chambers Vance Jacobs Joe Riis David Stubbs Ted Wood

Advertising Sales

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Heather Best Ad Design & Production

Stacey Walker Oldham Lydia Wanner Circulation

Hank Smith Pat Brodnik Gary Bourassa Kyra Griffin Office Manager

Kathleen Keniry Printed By

American Web, Denver, Colorado ©2012 Jackson Hole magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this production may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. No responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited editorial contributions. Manuscripts or other material to be returned must be accompanied by a selfaddressed, stamped envelope adequate to return the material. Jackson Hole magazine is published semiannually. Send subscription requests to: Jackson Hole magazine, P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, Wyoming 83002.

(307)733-2047 E-mail: dina@jhmagazine.com. Visit www.lifeinthetetons.com.

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Contributors Forrest McCarthy (“Packrafting,” page 99) has been a professional adventurer, mountain guide, and conservationist for more than twenty years. He is a veteran guide on Mount McKinley, Aconcagua, and Vinson Massif. Internationally, Forrest has climbed, skied, paddled, and guided in Australia, New Zealand, Ecuador, Argentina, Chile, Nepal, Antarctica, and Greenland. Domestically, he has pioneered technical ski and packrafting traverses throughout the northern Rocky Mountains, Southern Utah, and Alaska. He is at the forefront of applying packrafting techniques to the whitewater environment. Forrest obtained his bachelor’s degree in outdoor education from Prescott College and a master’s in geography from the University of Wyoming.

Jim Stanford (“Whiskey River, Take My Mind,” page 82) has been frequenting the Stagecoach Bar in Wilson for nearly twenty years. He remembers when there was no Internet, and the ’Coach served as the place to find a job or house and make friends.

Willie Nelson’s “Whiskey River” played on the jukebox every night. Jim was editor of Jackson Hole magazine from 2004 to 2006 and now works as a freelance writer, photographer, and Snake River guide. He publishes the blog JH Underground and is one of Wyoming’s foremost experts on the New York Jets and Widespread Panic.

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JADE M. SHELDON

Jackson Hole native Nicole Burdick (“Up Close and Personal with Art,” page 132) has published editorial, feature, essay, fiction, and poetry and has worked for the Jackson Hole Writers Conference. In addition to employing words on the page she also speaks them, and can occasionally be found on stage and in the classroom teaching literary and interdisciplinary classes. Nicole is most interested in exploring the places where art, science, nature, and humanity meet.

In this vein, she has facilitated a number of art and literary collaborations and exhibitions, and seeks out art wherever she is in the world. She also likes food, body movement, and creations made with her hands and her imagination.

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SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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A Wild Partnership “We’re often looked to as a role model.”

There may be no better way to begin, or to wrap up, your explorations of the Greater Yellowstone region than by visiting the interagency Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center. Even dyed-in-the-wool locals can reap great rewards there, learning all sorts of little-known factoids. (Did you know the fine-spotted Snake River cutthroat trout is the ultimate Jackson Hole old-timer, having inhabited the Snake and its upper tributary streams since the last Ice Age?) Straddling one of the most abrupt wildland-urban interfaces in America, where the tightly packed town of Jackson borders the wide-open, void-of-development National Elk Refuge, it is fitting the visitor center itself is a shared effort. Wander in and you might find yourself talking to a park ranger, someone from the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, or a U.S. Fish & Wildlife staffer.

It’s also appropriate the center’s roof is, like its immediate surroundings, a bit wild. In summer, the sod roof is abloom with native wildflowers. And no, it does not require mowing.

Beneath this earthen crown, inside its walls of gray-stained wood, most of the center’s displays were recently replaced. The funding for this came through the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act. In all, twenty-six new thematic exhibits have been installed. The final phase of the improvements was completed last October, with the addition of an audio tour.

The center knew to leave two exhibits alone: a thirteen-panel mural with the tonguetwisting name of Triskaidekatych and a running elk diorama. Local artist Greg McHuron, whose work is in the permanent collection of 18

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

BRADLY J. BONER

BY MIKE McCOY

the National Museum of Wildlife Art, painted the former. It depicts a progression of habitat zones, ranging from lowlands to high-mountain slopes. The latter is life-size and includes eight taxidermied elk.

Outside the center’s entrance, don’t miss the bronze of an elk and a grizzly bear by Twin Falls, Idaho sculptor Danny Edwards. On the grounds to the north is another sculpture: two trumpeter swans, titled Partners in Time, by Margery Torrey. Farther north yet on the expansive lawn there’s a pavilion perfect for a picnic.

To the east, the setting on and around the Bert Raynes Wildlife Observation Deck is so tranquil that it’s easy to forget downtown Jackson is just a feather’s throw away.

Sit awhile on Bert’s Bench, watching yellowheaded blackbirds flitting among the cattails, and soon the hum of the nearby highway will all but disappear. Common yellowthroat and northern shovelers are other regulars along this wetlands area adjacent to Flat Creek, which doubles as an environmental study area for local students.

As the visitor center serves many purposes—besides the art and tranquil grounds, you can take care of the mundane there as well, obtaining maps, bear spray, park passes, and

The Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center is a wealth of information for tourists and locals alike, from exhibits about the region’s environment and wildlife to information about seasonal road closures in the nearby national parks.

more—so do many agencies serve the visitor center. The center is on the National Elk Refuge. In August 2011, the Grand Teton Association donated the building to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, which oversees the refuge. Inside the center you’ll find staffers from the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, USFW, the Bridger-Teton National Forest, the Grand Teton Association, and, during the height of the summer season, even Grand Teton National Park. “It’s a very unique management arrangement,” says Lori Iverson, who works in outreach and visitor services for the refuge. “The partnerships allow people to get all their needs met in one place. We’re often looked to as a role model.”

Open daily in the summer from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center is located east off Cache Drive at the north end of Jackson. It hosts approximately 300,000 visitors annually. For more, visit www.fs.fed.us/jhgyvc. JH

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Teton

scapes sports

Running Wild A marathon as scenic as it is challenging

Teton Valley resident Jay Batchen ran his first marathon in Washington, D.C., to spite a coworker who said he couldn’t do it.

Batchen hadn’t been running much but bristled when he was told he couldn’t do something. Six months later, he not only finished the race—The Marine Corps Marathon—but also beat his coworker’s best time. Still, “I truthfully thought I would never do it again,” Batchen said. “Afterwards, I had to walk backwards down the staircase in my house.”

It was a challenge, though. Twenty-six and two-tenths miles. And Batchen likes challenges. He ran another marathon. Then one more.

And then, in 1999, Jay ended up in Morocco, filming his future wife, Lisa, while she was running the six-day, 151-mile Marathon des Sables stage race across the Sahara Desert.

Lisa won (she is the only American to have ever won the race). The next year, the couple returned and ran the race together. Within several years, Batchen had transformed from a newbie to running in one of the world’s toughest endurance races. It took him a bit more than a decade to go from running to founding and organizing his own races.

Jay and Lisa run Dreamchasers Outdoor Adventures. The company offers training and coaching and, more recently, puts on races.

Dreamchasers is involved in nearly a dozen of them all over the world: the Grand Teton Races at Grand Targhee in Teton Valley, the Himalayan 100 Mile Stage Race, and the Targhee Hill Climb, among others.

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

PRICE CHAMBERS

BY KEVIN HUELSMANN

The Batchens decided 2011 was the year to add a local road marathon to Dreamchasers’ list of events. The inaugural Jackson Hole Marathon was held September 24. The first one a success, this year’s will be Sunday, September 23.

“I couldn’t believe we didn’t have a road marathon,” Jay Batchen says. “Jackson Hole offers racers gorgeous views, wide-open spaces, and challenging mountain terrain—a combination that forms the bedrock of a great race location.”

More than three hundred runners—a mix of locals, regional racers, and out-oftowners from as far away as Missouri, New York, and California—lined up at the start of last year’s Jackson Hole Marathon. Because not everyone wants to do a full marathon—26.2 miles—the event also offered half-marathon and team relay options.

The race began in the chilly, early morning hours at Jackson’s Town Square. Runners slowly shed layers as they ran through east Jackson and out to South Park, leaving clothes on street signs and posts for a later pickup.

Unlike large marathons in New York City and Boston, Jackson’s marathon does not attract swarms of spectators. Small crowds congregate on some of the bike paths in town and

Michelle Dickson gets a high-five crossing the finish line near Teton Village at the end of the 2011 Jackson Hole Marathon.

near Teton Village, but generally, runners have plenty of space. “It’s a road marathon that’s like trail running,” Batchen says. “Instead of the crowd really getting behind you, you have to look around and pull from the scenery.”

Local racer Allison Orin, who was doing her first marathon, says, “You weren’t getting clipped or dealing with delayed starts. There’s not a huge pack, where it’s claustrophobic.

But you’re close enough that you can pace someone or run with other people.”

From South Park, racers ran along Highway 22 before turning onto Highway 390, which took them to the finish line in Teton Village where local bands Mandatory Air and The Miller Sisters were playing. Heath Wiltse, a former Jackson resident who now lives in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, won the marathon with a time of 2 hours, 51 minutes and 31 seconds.

Batchen considers the race a success.

“Save for a moose that startled some runners near Wilson, there were few surprises,” he says. JH

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Teton

scapes community

Restoring History Keeping our antler arches alive

“They were starting to decompose,” says Pete Karns about the famous antler arches on the Town Square. “People were stealing individual antlers because they weren’t secure anymore.” A sexagenarian whose grandfather homesteaded in Jackson in 1890, Karns also realized the arches were becoming a safety hazard. Kids—and adults—climb on them.

Karns saw this in 2006, and that same year, he started fundraising. The idea was to collect enough money to replace all four arches. Karns, a Rotarian, turned to the valley’s three Rotary Clubs. To date, the Rotarysponsored Help Save the Arches Committee has raised about $250,000. That’s been enough to do three of the four arches. Work on the last arch—at the northwest corner of the square—is slated for summer 2013, provided the funds are there.

The first arch went up on the Town Square in 1953. And it was the Rotary Club that did it then. It went up on the southwest corner (the intersection of Broadway and Cache) of the square. The other corners didn’t get “arch-ed” until over a decade later: in 1966, 1967, and 1969.

“They’ve been there most of my life, and they’ve always been an icon,” Karns says. “A Jackson Hole without its arches could never exist. If the Rotary Club had not put together a partnership to rebuild them, I’m sure the town itself would have taken it on at some point in time.”

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

PRICE CHAMBERS

BY SARAH REESE

It’s fairly amazing the first arch lasted as long as it did—almost fifty years. “[Antlers] do decompose,” Karns says. “They don’t look very good when they’re that old.” Ideally, antlers should be replaced every thirty to forty years.

The rebuilding effort began in 2007 with the original arch, the one on the southwest corner. Rotary raised the money, but it was Jackson Public Works Director Larry Pardee who oversaw the actual work.

For whatever reason, the southwest arch is the most popular for photographs.

Because of that, this arch wasn’t just replaced but also moved. “There was a lot of concern that people were walking backwards out into traffic to get photos,” Pardee says. “So we moved it back eight feet.” Then the new pedestals had a steel frame laid between them. That was then wrapped with about 12,000 pounds of antlers.

The southeast arch was redone in 2009; the northeast corner, across from Moo’s Gourmet Ice Cream, in 2011. Each time, workers disassembled the old arch just after Memorial Day and had the new one up by Fourth of July. It’s a labor-intensive process.

Workers weave antlers—each of which weighs from five to ten pounds—together around the steel frame. Antlers go up one at a time. By

Tom Patterson, right, and Anders Rae share a laugh with tourists while rebuilding the antler arch on the northeast corner of the Jackson Town Square last year. Only one arch remains to be rebuilt. The northwest corner will be done next summer.

the time an arch is done, it’s a mosaic of 10,000 to 12,000 pounds of antlers. Some of them are screwed down to add extra support and prevent vandalism. “One of the great challenges we face,” Pardee says, “is that a lot of people try to take them.”

The committee gets 1,000 to 2,000 pounds of antlers for each arch from the Boy Scouts, who pick them up on the National Elk Refuge each year. The rest come from antler dealers in the Mountain West. “It’s surprising, there are a lot of antlers available,” Karns says.

“It’s raising money that has been difficult.”

The final arch will cost $80,000 to $100,000. “Then we’ll be secure for another thirty years,” Karns says.

The best way to support the project is to make a tax-deductible donation through the Community Foundation of Jackson Hole.

Designate the donation to the Help Save the Arches Committee. JH

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Teton

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Ready, Set, Write!

Jackson Hole Writers Conference: where writers are social and successful “I had been writing in Jackson Hole every day for twenty years and had never met another writer,” says Tim Sandlin, who, since 1987, has published nine novels and also written eleven screenplays, two of which were made into movies. “I wanted somebody to talk to about writing.”

Sandlin himself could have taken a trip to some writing hot spot like New York City or San Francisco. Instead, he, along with John Byrne Cooke, Jeremy Schmidt, Deborah Bedford, and Win Blevins, decided to bring writers here. In 1991, the group, with the aid of Phillip Berman, organized the first Jackson Hole Writers Conference. It was held at Snow King Resort. “It was just what I had hoped. It was great to get together with other writers and talk about our work,” says Sandlin, the current conference director.

Twenty-one years later, the conference is stronger than ever. More than one hundred writers from across the country sit in on panels about fiction, nonfiction, poetry, and young adult writing, meet with editors and agents, mingle, and have their manuscripts critiqued.

Each year, the conference also offers an open-to-the-community reading and talk by some keynote guests. In 2010, Janet Fitch, author of White Oleander, an Oprah’s Book Club selection, and Tim Cahill, one of the founders of Outside magazine, drew hundreds of people to the Center for the Arts.

The conference was sponsored by the University of Wyoming and held at Snow King Resort for its formative years. When the Center for the Arts was finished in 2007, the conference became its own nonprofit and 24

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

ASHLEY WILKERSON

BY DINA MISHEV

moved into that space. And it’s been growing ever since. “We had forty people the year before we moved to the Center,” Sandlin says.

“Last year, we had 120. We’re not going to get much bigger, though. We like that everyone gets a chance to meet each other.”

For 2012, guest writers include novelist and nonfiction writer Anita Diamant (The Red Tent, Good Harbor, The Last Days of Dogtown); poet and Guggenheim Fellow Naomi Shihab Nye; novelist Brandon Mull (the Fablehaven series, The Candy Shop War); novelist Margaret Coel (the Wind River mystery series); and Craig Johnson, whose seven books about Sheriff Walt Longmire are currently being produced as a television series, Longmire, for the A&E Network. This year’s conference is June 28 to 30.

“I bring in writers I want to meet,” Sandlin says, “and ones that I hear are nice and approachable. Our conference is small, and the goal is for everyone to meet and mingle.” Tina Welling, a longtime faculty member, says, “Faculty members love to help other writers, and that tone of generosity comes directly from the top, from the director, Tim Sandlin.”

Conference faculty isn’t just writers, but also editors and agents. “About twenty-five books have been published out of the conference,” Sandlin says. “We’ll have about

Jackson author Tina Welling, right, talks with writer Tara Alfonsi, of Duluth, Minnesota, during individual critiques at the 2008 Jackson Hole Writers Conference.

five to six writers a year who end up getting a book deal and maybe eight or nine that get an agent.”

“I spun my wheels for months trying to attract an agent to represent my novel before signing on last-minute to the conference,” says Malcolm Brooks, of Missoula, Montana. “Tina Welling had really connected with my manuscript sample and, at the conference’s Saturday barbecue, walked me right up to an agent. He took me on the next week and then sold my novel to Grove/Atlantic nine months later. The conference literally changed my life.”

Not quite as exciting as landing an agent or book deal is the writing contest Jackson Hole magazine sponsors with the conference.

You can read Elisabeth Ward’s winning entry from last year on this magazine’s website, lifeinthetetons.com. The website also has information about entering this year’s contest.

You needn’t attend the conference to enter.

The winner receives a scholarship to next year’s conference. JH

THE WEST IS OUR HERITAGE

MAKE IT YOURS

Wa l t o n Ra n c h JACKSON, WYOMING

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he iconic Walton Ranch in Jackson Hole has come on the market for the first time. Sited along the legendary Snake River and adjacent to the Grand Teton with views over the entire valley, the 1,848-acre working ranch is surrounded by the grandeur of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks and yet is five miles to downtown Jackson and fifteen minutes to world-class ski resorts and air service.

Offered for $100 million. Ron Morris 970.535.0881 and Billy Long 970.927.3850

RMABROKERS.COM SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JH Living

locals

Cindee George A Vision for the Arts As a biology major at the University of Utah, Cindee George wondered how she would survive her college’s art requirement: a dreaded three hours a day, three days a week for an entire semester.

So the Salt Lake City native pushed off taking the course until her very last semester.

And then, in the class, something surprised her.

“I became immersed in the process,” she says. “For me, art was an escape.”

Seeing her blossoming passion, George’s professor offered to mentor her through the university’s arts program, unaware that her pupil’s undergraduate education was coming to an end.

It was then that George, now forty-seven, made a commitment to her professor and herself. She would continue to pursue her artistic passions even after graduation.

“Ever since then, that’s what I’ve been doing,” says George, who today works in acrylics, oils, found objects, and sculpture.

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Since moving to Jackson Hole thirteen years ago with her husband and three sons, Cindee George has been active in the arts community. Last January, she was appointed executive director of the Center for the Arts, a 41,000-square-foot arts campus in downtown Jackson. The Center is home to art, music, dance, and theater groups, and a five-hundredseat theater.

Q: How has the arts scene changed since you first came here in 1999?

A: It’s much more vibrant and growing.

Up-and-coming young artists are getting in the mix, having more of a voice. I think there’s a larger variety of art. When I first moved here, there was only one contemporary gallery.

Q: Why do you think our arts community has grown?

A: There’s something about Jackson that draws artists here. I don’t know if that’s our natural surroundings and what that has to offer.

Q: What is the Center’s role in our arts community?

A: It’s a gathering place for our artists and community members. The Center is a place to show art, discuss art, and talk about art. I hope that it will provide some type of home or gathering place for artists, and give artists a platform either physically or metaphorically.

Q: How do you see the arts community evolving into the future?

A: I think there will be more collaboration. Given the past four years of economic turmoil, people, out of necessity, turned toward each other to see how they can work together. That has proven to be helpful and successful.

Because of that, we blossom more as a community when we collaborate, especially on art projects and art ideas.

Q: What are your goals for the Center?

A: I want to do more TEDx events; but salon-style and not just once a year with ten speakers in one day. I’d like to do something like that every other month, inviting two members from the community to speak. I’ve also talked to Friends of Pathways about doing bike or Segway tours that start and end at the Center and make stops at all of our art galleries. I think that would be a fun way to expose tourists to the arts. I’d also really like to get the park [which was in the original design] built.

Q: Do you have any personal goals?

A: Well, I’ve done two shows—at Betty Rock and Elevated Grounds—and I’d love to do another show.

Interview by Cara Rank Photography by Bradly J. Boner

SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JH Living

locals

Pete Lawton From Quarterback to Quarters People in a small town don’t forget much. For example, Pete Lawton’s name will forever be attached to quarterbacking for a state championship football team in 1981, throwing the winning pass for Jackson Hole High School.

Lawton likes this small-town vibe, and it’s a major reason the forty-eight-year-old moved from Jackson Market President for Wells Fargo to CEO of Bank of Jackson Hole one year ago. “I like the small community model,” he says.

Lawton traces his roots in the valley to his grandfather, who moved here in 1938 to work as one of two doctors in town. Though Lawton was born in Cody, his family moved back to Jackson when he was two. He spent four years at the University of Wyoming and another three working for Key Bank in Laramie before returning home to raise his two sons and work for Jackson State Bank & Trust.

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

Cody, Jackson, Laramie, and back to Jackson. Pete Lawton is as Wyoming as they come.

Though recently remarried, he still finds time to enjoy the outdoors and volunteer as president of the Jackson Hole Land Trust, vice-chairman of Community Foundation of Jackson Hole, and vicepresident of JH Air. Lawton squeezes in fly fishing and skiing when he can.

Q: When you were in high school, did you think you would go into banking?

A: No. I was a petroleum engineering major in college for three years at the University of Wyoming. There was a recession then, and people were going back to school to get MBAs. There were no jobs, so I changed majors and got a business degree. Then I got hired by a bank and worked in Laramie.

Q: If you weren’t a banker, what would you be doing now?

A: They didn’t offer marine biology at the University of Wyoming. I’ve been in the mountains my whole life; I’d love to spend more time at the ocean. I do get to the Caribbean to go spear fishing, which I really enjoy.

Q: How do you spend your time when you’re not working or volunteering?

A: I grew up ski racing, and I still love to ski. In college, I worked as a whitewater river guide, so I still spend a lot of time on the river, mostly fishing. I keep skis in the car during the winter and a fly rod in summer.

Q: Why make the switch from Wells Fargo to Bank of Jackson Hole?

A: I wanted to switch to a smaller company. That’s more my style. Wells is a great model and a very successful bank.

But I like working for a smaller community bank. I like that decisions are made locally, that you know your community and your customers.

Q: What’s your perception of the Jackson Hole economy?

A: We’ve had a pretty strong winter, and summers have bounced back in the last couple of years. In the real estate market, certain segments are doing OK. We’re starting to decrease inventory levels. The economy seems to be stabilizing. But you know, a lot of the money spent here is discretionary. And that means we’re late going into downturns and we’re usually late coming out. With no state income tax and our parks, forests, ski areas, and music festival, we’re going to continue to attract people. Jackson will continue to thrive; it’s just not going to happen at the level it was in 2007.

Interview by Cara Rank Photography by Price Chambers

SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JH Living

on the job

The Executive Whisperer Grant Golliher, oracle to corporate America

BY JAYME FEARY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

OPPOSITE PAGE: Grant Golliher works with a cutting horse during a training session at his Diamond Cross Ranch in Buffalo Valley, Wyoming.

LEFT: Golliher demonstrates saddling an unbroken horse. Many of the horses he trains have been abused or neglected by previous owners.

Six-foot-four. Two-hundred-thirty pounds. Navy veteran. Not the crying type. But Dave Makowicz sniffs and wipes his cheek. “This is one of the most important things I’ve ever seen in my life,” he says.

Makowicz is Chief Operations Officer for Philadelphia-based investment firm CBRE Clarion Securities. He and his colleagues have just observed horseman Grant Golliher, co-owner of the Diamond Cross Ranch, use the horse-breaking process to teach management and leadership.

Inside the round pen stands a panting, sweating three-year-old colt, the kind of spoiled horse used to getting its own way.

Until an hour ago.

Clarion is one of approximately thirty-five corporations each year that sends its employees to Jackson Hole to learn from Golliher, a kind of cowboy oracle.

Organizations like Toyota, IBM, Del Monte, Lexus, General Electric, Allstate, and the Federal Reserve flock to the Diamond Cross. Golliher may be the only horseman in America who makes most of his living demonstrating leadership skills to corporate employees.

Earlier, he had released a colt into the round pen. It raised its head, pointed its inside ear toward Golliher, its eyes wide and gaze locked. Its cooperativeness was shallow in the manner of a manipulative teenager, however. It moved as far from Golliher as it could.

When Golliher lifted a saddle onto the colt’s back and cinched it down, the horse didn’t seem bothered. Chief Executive Officer T. Ritson Ferguson suspected the colt had been ridden before; the demonstration was a setup. Come on, who could start an unbroken horse in one hour?

Accustomed to skepticism, Golliher pulled the cinch tight and waved the colt away. Feeling the cinch, it broke in two, snorting and bucking around the round pen and smashing into the metal panels, shoving them nearly into the knees of the spectators in the front row and almost flipping into the audience. Clarion employees leaned back in their seats. As if it was possible to dodge a thousandpound explosion of hide and hoof. By the time the colt landed back in the pen, bolting and bucking, Ferguson’s skepticism had vanished.

Golliherisms “If a horse can face his fears, he can overcome his fears.”

“Horses are honest. Men are not.”

“Pressure is what trains them [horses and people].”

“If we keep making the right choices, we keep progressing.”

“I demand a lot of them, but I love them a lot.”

“They respect you as their leader, but you’re also their friend.”

“They [horses] aren’t made to be alone. We aren’t either.”

SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Several years ago, Grant Golliher, a horse trainer at the Diamond Cross, learned of a humane method of training commonly known as “horse whispering.”

He first used the technique to train polo horses, but now applies the methods to cutting horses.

Months later, Clarion employees would be asked to reflect on this scene, discussing how they might apply what they had seen. They did not yet know that this demonstration would provide a framework for discussing and solving specific management problems. At the moment, they waited balled up and gapjawed for when Golliher would ride.

Surely the colt would buck him off.

Golliher did not lose his temper or blame the inexperienced horse, but maintained a quiet and confident energy.

“Make the wrong thing difficult and the right thing easy,” he said, and everyone— especially Dave Makowicz—knew he was not talking only about horses.

Instead of a horse in the pen, Makowicz saw his son, Nate, an autistic young man who often throws tantrums to express

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fear or frustration. Golliher could just as easily have been working with Nate. The lessons came to Makowicz easily: Base the relationship on trust. Don’t get rattled. Allow a person to be himself, but establish clear boundaries. This moment of transference when spectators gaze into the pen and see not a horse, but, for instance, an employee, a boss, a spouse, or a child is when Golliher’s “entertainment” gives way to an emotional “aha.”

Makowicz had hoped the demonstration would improve teamwork and increase motivation. He hadn’t expected to look in a mirror and see the relationship between father and son.

The colt faced Golliher, giving him its full attention, and Golliher stroked it on the neck. “There you go. Good boy.”

Then he turned to the people and issued one of many signature pronouncements: “If they trust you, they’ll be loyal and follow you.” CEO Ferguson marveled at how quickly Golliher had won the colt’s faith. “Good leaders develop trust. You have nothing without respect,” Golliher said. The lesson couldn’t have been clearer if he had presented a traditional leadership seminar at Clarion’s corpo-

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

rate office. People are attracted to humility, not to a leader who is arrogant and prideful. Loyalty is the goal—people want to be a part of the company family.

Respect must be earned; it cannot be demanded. And there it was, one moment of many to which Clarion’s leaders could refer later.

They soaked up the meaning but not for long. Golliher was about to mount up.

He lifted foot to stirrup, eased a leg over, and settled onto the colt’s back. It tensed up and stepped around tenuously, assessing the predator on its back and trying to decide how to react. Let the rodeo begin!

On the brink of a meltdown and overcome with fright, the colt tucked its hindquarters, scooted off—and the people gasped. The colt looked back at Golliher as if asking, “Am I OK? Am I OK?” Most other cowboys would have grabbed leather, gritted their teeth, and held tight, but Golliher remained calm and loose and reached out to rub the colt’s neck. “You good? You done? You gonna be alright?” He rubbed some more until the horse relaxed. “There you go, good boy. That’s a good first step.”

Though still anxious and uptight, the horse lowered its head and carried its rider around the pen. If Golliher believed the colt was OK, it would, too. Golliher grinned. Ah, the power of positive expectations. The horse gradually ceded itself to the rules of the world of work.

“I’m as tough as I have to be, as soft as I can be,” Golliher said.

The audience, however, did not completely relax. Convinced the colt would buck, the people sat crimped and waiting, but the horse relaxed its shoulders and

Golliher runs the Diamond Cross with his wife, Jane. In the 1940s, Jane’s parents, Walter and Betty Feuz, purchased the ranch from three original homesteaders.

neck and carried Golliher around the pen.

He knew that humans sometimes hang on to beliefs even after seeing evidence to the contrary, so he smiled, stroked the colt, and asked, “If we don’t trust them, how do we expect them to trust us?”

After the demo, Makowicz stands at the fence taking in the colt and trying to put words to his thoughts. The horse looks like an employee who has weathered the first day on a difficult job.

Exhausted, it seems mostly relieved and maybe a bit surprised that it has survived. In fact, it has done better than that; it has worked through its fear and inexperience without losing control.

Lathered and breathing deeply, the colt watches Golliher walk away toward the gate—and follows him.

Like other corporate businesspersons who have attended Golliher’s programs, Makowicz might relate the demonstration to increased net profit or improved relationships with employees, suppliers, or clients. But he can’t stop thinking about Nate. His emotions surprise and embarrass him. At first he has a hard time stringing together the right words.

“I’m a controlling parent sometimes, and maybe I need to let go of the reins and just back off a bit. Let them be what they need to be … and be there to love them when they’re done.” He is talking about parenting, but the application to corporate leadership is clear. Smile lines stretch out from the corners of his eyes.

“I see there is a better way,” he says. JH SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JH Living

business

The Business of Health is Healthy in Jackson Hole An endless assortment of businesses— offering everything from acupuncture to CrossFit—caters to the wellness needs of our active, healthconscious community.

BY TRAM WHITEHURST PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID STUBBS

Erin O’Brien leads a class at Akasha Yoga in Jackson.

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AS EMINEM’S “Lose Yourself” blasts from the speakers at his gym in The Aspens and a crowd of members cheers him on, CrossFit Jackson Hole owner Ryan Hudson sweats his way through a grueling workout. He’s trying to complete as many burpees as possible in seven minutes, dropping to the floor in a push-up position, springing back up, then jumping up to touch a bar six inches overhead. After pumping out 110 of them, Hudson collapses to the ground. The crowd applauds, and the music keeps on thumping.

Back in town at The Harmonic Spa, Nancy Alfs works through Acutonics sessions with clients in a quiet, dimly lit room on West Pearl Avenue. The treatment uses “vibrational sound healing” to help clients improve their health. As they lie still on a bed, Alfs gently plays

The Harmonic Spa uses thirteen different gongs in its Acutonics Therapy. gongs and places vibrating tuning forks on their head, hands, and feet.

Though seemingly unrelated, these businesses represent two ends of the spectrum that is Jackson Hole’s health and wellness industry. From yoga studios to fitness centers, nutritionists to physical therapists, the seeker of health has an abundance of choices. “For a small community to support this many businesses, it says a lot about the population,” says Scott Smith, owner of One to One Wellness, a Jackson fitness studio founded in 1998. Dr. Mark Menolascino, a board-certified internist at the Center for Advanced Medicine in Wilson, says, “We’re fortunate to have a very good variety of very skilled [health-related practitioners] and depth within the variety.”

IT’S HARD TO say how many health-related businesses and individual practices there are in the valley. The Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce lists twenty-six “health and wellness” member businesses, but that does not come close to covering the full range. A simple Google search returns results for at least twenty massage practitioners—about one for every one thousand county residents.

Old-timers in the industry say they’ve they say, Jackson Hole truly is becoming a seen a significant increase in the number destination for wellness. and variety of offerings. Those that have worked elsewhere 1,500 people attended the 2011 St. John’s say even much larger cities don’t come close to offering what Medical Center Community Health Fair.

Jackson Hole does.

The industry is constantly evolving as businesses bring in the TETON COUNTY continues to be latest techniques and equipment—from ranked the healthiest county in Wyoming, portable infrared saunas to hyperbaric according to state data. The latest chambers. With growing collaboration, Community Health Assessment from

What’s Next?

A one-stop shop for health and wellness, West Pearl Wellness is nine businesses under one roof.

After a tough session at Excel Physical Therapy, you can walk across the room and get a massage to aid recovery.

You can also head across the hall for acupuncture or go downstairs for a diet plan. There’s a studio for yoga, Pilates, and other fitness classes. In February, West Pearl Wellness, a cooperative of nine health and wellness businesses, opened at 120 W. Pearl Avenue.

The brainchild of Excel co-owners Francine Bartlett and Maria Brecker, both certified physical therapists, the co-op is a miniature of the valley’s health and wellness industry. When Bartlett and Brecker moved into the space, they invited existing contacts in the health and wellness fields to join them.

West Pearl Wellness grew from there. “People were finishing PT [physical therapy] and then not really knowing what to do with themselves; they still needed guidance,” Bartlett says.

“We wanted to surround them with health care professionals.”

The thinking behind the co-op is that by sharing the same space, practices can work together to improve patient care while also making it easier for clients to access services during their recovery. Bruce Tlougan, who has a bad back from all the time on his feet at Jackson’s New York City Sub Shop—he’s the owner—has taken full advantage of the offerings. After personal training sessions with Stacy Fisher of Fisher Fitness, he started doing physical therapy with Excel and now takes a number of classes offered at Studio X. “Because it’s a single destination, you have an easier time with the transformation of your own personal health because it’s all there in one place,” he says. Co-op members also praise the model. Tucker Offutt, owner of Western Medical Equipment, says it’s helpful for businesses and patients to have so much knowledge and talent in one place. “It hasn’t necessarily increased business, but it does make it easier for patients who are coming to this building anyway,” he says. “I’ve been surprised by how many people will be doing two or three things at a time here.”

West Pearl Wellness: Excel Physical Therapy: A private outpatient practice, owned and operated by licensed physical therapists with more than twenty years of experience.

Studio X: Fitness studio offering classes in yoga, Pilates, mountain fitness, and more.

Fisher Fitness: Stacy Fisher is a personal trainer offering a variety of fitness services.

Blue Sky Healing Arts: Dr. Thomas Sexton, a licensed acupuncturist, has more than thirty years of experience in the healing arts and an extensive background in Oriental medicine, acupuncture, and bio-energetic medicine.

Core Training & Wellness: Bobbi Reyes offers therapeutic massage, personal training, and core conditioning.

East of the Tetons Acupuncture: Owner Taug Boschen offers acupuncture and other forms of Chinese medicine.

Healthy Being Nutrition: Jessica Vandenbroeke offers holistic health and weight-loss coaching.

JBird Massage: Joelle Cogliati provides licensed orthopedic sports massage.

Western Medical Equipment: Provides medical equipment rentals and sales for post-op patients and others.

SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Teton County Public Health shows that, compared with the rest of the state, county residents are better at maintaining a healthy weight, staying active, and not smoking. “We’re still a healthy, active community and have lots of resources most communities don’t,” says public health director Terri Gregory.

Because Jackson Hole is such a healthy community, and because it tends to draw and hold an active, outdoorsy, healthconscious population, business owners say it’s fertile ground for health and wellness services. It also helps that clients have money to spend. After all, personal training, pharmaceutical-grade supplements, and massages don’t come cheap.

Marcia Craighead, executive director

gym about two-and-a-half years ago, was shocked there wasn’t already a CrossFit gym here. Jackson Hole is a great demographic for the demanding training. “Everybody here already does outdoor stuff,” he says. “This can help improve performance.”

AS LARGE AND varied as the market is for health and wellness services, owners say clients—an educated and independent-minded bunch—demand top-quality services and will seek out what works.

“People do a lot of research on their own and ask a lot of questions,” says Babs Melka of Roadrunner Apothecary, a compounding pharmacy that opened in 2003.

As a result, businesses know they have to

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

of the Teton Wellness Institute, refers to the draw of Jackson Hole as the “power of place.” “People attracted to this place are living a healthy lifestyle,” she says.

Her organization has hosted the Teton Wellness Festival for the past decade, drawing thousands of attendees—1,400 last year alone—and hundreds of speakers and presenters to the valley. This year, the institute is shifting gears and hosting a Teton Wellness Summit centered on a talk by best-selling author and journalist Michael Pollan.

A number of health-related business owners say they came to the valley specifically because they saw a market for their services. Hudson, who opened his

bring the goods to attract and maintain loyal customers. That means staying on the cutting edge of what’s new in the health and wellness industry, and having quality products and staff. “We have great medicine around the valley,” Dr. Menolascino says.

Some businesses thrive through collaboration, which many owners see as a growing trend. Newer practices not only work with each other, but also with the traditional medical community. “There is a huge amount of collaboration here,” says Jayne Ottman, a registered nurse and former Teton County Public Health director who now runs Integrated Health Choices, an education-based practice. “I

Maura Marshall hoists a sixty-five-pound cement ball over her shoulder during a CrossFit workout in The Aspens.

have physicians in my back pocket I can call anytime,” she says.

West Pearl Wellness (see sidebar), a cooperative of nine health and wellness businesses operating under one roof, is perhaps the most comprehensive healthrelated collaborative in the valley.

The food and nutrition sector—nutritionists, restaurants, and grocers—is a significant part of the health and wellness market in the valley, too. Therese Lowe Metherell of Peak Nutrition offers the “Wilson Beach” diet plan, which lays out a healthy eating plan for active clients.

Justin Hitch at JH Organics has seen his business grow over the last five years from a smoothie shop to an organic specialty restaurant. His most popular dish is the “Loco Moco,” an organic and gluten-free combination of a buffalo burger, fried egg, cheese, and brown gravy stacked over ginger citrus rice. Jackson Whole Grocer is bringing more and more natural and organic foods onto its supermarket shelves. Since taking over the grocery store about eighteen months ago, owner Jeff Rice says the mix of products has shifted from about 50-50 to 60-40 in favor of natural and organics. Consumers are driving the change. “I think the world is continuing to wake up to the value of eating whole foods,” he says.

ALTHOUGH MANY HEALTH and wellness businesses in town cater to locals, an effort is also under way to expand their reach and make Jackson Hole

a place people visit specifically to im- here. “When they return to their priprove their mind, body, and spirit. mary homes and tell friends about what “Destination Wellness” started six years we do here and how good they now feel, ago as a collaboration between the their friends will come out on their Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, own. Sometimes with their whole famiSt. John’s Medical Center, Teton Wellness lies,” says Dr. Meno, who this past Institute and other groups. The project’s January won a research competition at goal is to promote health and wellness in the comSt. John’s Medical Center estimated munity, as well as to promote the it saved $25,000 the first year of its businesses that offer those types of services. “The idea employee wellness program. is if people are looking for somewhere to go in terms of bettering them- the annual San Diego conference, selves, they can come here for it all,” says Scripps Natural Supplements: An Maureen Murphy, who manages the Evidence-Based Update. (The work program at the chamber. “We’re a one- leading to the award will be published stop shop.” in the July issue of the peer-reviewed Physicians are also experimenting Journal of Alternative and Complemenwith ways to bring in patients/visitors. Dr. tary Medicine; it is the first such research Menolascino’s Center for Advanced to come out of the valley.) The Center Medicine practices functional/integrative works out schedules for out-of-town medicine. Whereas traditional medicine patients that get the medical work done encourages the treating of symptoms— in the morning so that afternoons and what Menolascino calls the “If you have evenings are free for skiing, hiking, ridan ill, I can give you a pill” approach— ing, and sightseeing. functional medicine looks for the root This spring, the center hired New causes of symptoms. Menolascino’s ap- York City-based consultants to take a proach sounds straightforward, but prac- look at the practice. “Their conclusion titioners with this view are actually few was that what we’re doing is unique and and far between. where we’re doing it is even more The center has many patients who unique,” Dr. Meno says. “They were reare second- and third-homeowners ally impressed.” JH SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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design

BRADLY J. BONER

JH Living

New West Cowboy style is getting contemporary

BY DINA MISHEV

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN design. It wasn’t so long ago this was an oxymoron in Jackson Hole.

Log homes ruled the valley. Art galleries were almost exclusively showing and selling wildlife and traditional western art. Any respectable public space had at least an elk antler chandelier. If a building wanted to overachieve, it had several species of taxidermied animals displayed against knobbled pine walls beneath multiple antler chandeliers. Jackson Hole had plenty of western design, but contemporary western design? Not so much.

Today there’s Hotel Terra in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Walk into the lobby of the world’s first luxury LEED-certified boutique hotel and you’re greeted by a fire roaring in a glass and flagstone fireplace, wing chairs upholstered in a mohair/cotton pomegranate-colored fabric, and Barn Wood Lens, a hanging sculpture Jackson artist Ben Roth fabricated from wood that spent the first one hundred years of its life as a barn in Montana. “It is a slice of a sphere of organic material that is both beautiful and fragile,” explains Roth, who has been working as an artist in the valley for the last decade.

The Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole opened in 2003. Designed by Los Angeles-based Hill Glazier Architects, it uses natural materials—woods, copper, and stone—rather than traditional western design and themes to give it a sense of place. As you wander its hallways, even if you’re looking at surrealist art by Joan Miro or Alberto Giacometti, thanks to the warmth of the materials and color palette, there’s no doubt you’re in the West.

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After working as Meyer Gallery’s director for three years, Mariam Diehl bought the gallery in 2005. She eventually renamed it Diehl Gallery and, in 2008, relocated it to 155 W. Broadway.

Diehl also slowly transformed the gallery from traditional to contemporary.

In downtown Jackson, Diehl Gallery and Tayloe Piggott Gallery don’t have traditional cowboys, Indians, or bison on their walls, if they have any at all.

Some Diehl Gallery artists have work in the permanent collections of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Kemper in Kansas City, and Los Angeles County Museum of Art. The interior of The Kitchen, one of town’s most popular restaurants, is cozy and comfortable, both very log cabin-y qualities, but bears more resemblance to the inside of a Washington, D.C. Metro station than a log cabin. Ward + Blake Architects, which the Wyoming Chapter of the

“Western design in Jackson Hole is well beyond cowboys, Indians, leather, and log.”

American Institute of Architects named the 2011 Firm of the Year, uses materials like concrete, marble, sod, wood, and stone in its public and private projects.

“Western design in Jackson Hole is well beyond cowboys, Indians, leather, and log,” says Nancy McCullough-McCoy, the director of the annual Western Design Conference, which celebrates its twentieth anniversary this year (see sidebar).

Thirteen years ago, Roth worked with architect Stephen Dynia on the design of Café Terroir, which is now long-shuttered (but still fondly remembered). “We had to convince the town to let us use rusted metal on the exterior of the restaurant,” Roth says. “Since then, rusted metal has caught on in the valley nicely, and it fits in the valley.” Mariam Diehl, owner of Diehl Gallery, says, “For me, contemporary western design is a fusing of traditional western elements—antlers, log, and cowhide—with contemporary components— clean lines and updated fabrics like mohair, silk shantung, and ikat prints— in an attempt to lose the fustiness of traditional western design.”

PERCHED ATOP East Gros Ventre Butte, there’s an undoubtedly contemporary residence. And also undoubtedly western. Designed by Ward + Blake, the home unequivocally takes its design cues from its unique five-acre sloping site and SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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COURTESY WARD + BLAKE ARCHITECTS

LEFT: The design of this contemporary residence atop East Gros Ventre Butte mimics the surrounding natural environment.

The home has been featured in Architectural Digest.

BELOW: Ward + Blake worked not only to blend this home into the landscape, but also to maximize views. The Wyoming Chapter of the American Institute of Architects named the Jackson-based firm 2011 Firm of the Year.

the unencumbered 360-degree views it offers. To the north and west are the Tetons; the town of Jackson is to the south. East are the National Elk Refuge and Sleeping Indian Mountain. Entering the residence at midlevel, the Grand Teton erupts through windows at the other end of the house. The master bedroom and three children’s rooms each have distinct mountain views. In the kitchen, the cabinets were placed below counter level so as not to shroud the vista. Most remarkable of all, though, especially considering the area’s homeowners’ association and its strict design and building codes? There isn’t a single log in sight.

While the site inspired the residence’s composition and massing, the exposed concrete, cedar, and steel materials speak 40

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COURTESY WARD + BLAKE ARCHITECTS

A home can’t get much more western than by echoing a western landscape.

to its “built” nature—original and honest rather than imitative of the natural world.

A butterfly roof capping the topmost level, and echoed in smaller umbrella-like awnings that extend over the patio, does provide visual interest but also references the surrounding mountain ranges. A reflecting pool and a glass-and-steel water “trough” that courses along the home’s exterior further reinforce the building’s connection to its natural surroundings.

The home was the subject of a feature article in Architectural Digest.

“It was by far the most controversial house built on that butte,” says architect Tom Ward. “Everything else up there at the time was clichéd Hollywood Western.”

It was a clause buried deep in the building covenants that got the project passed: “It says that the architecture should reflect the intrinsic values of the site—and this house does that in spades,” Ward says. A home can’t get much more western than by echoing a western landscape.

Since this residence has been completed, the homeowners’ association has had

NOW ACCEPTING ARTWORK CONSIGNMENTS FOR AUCTION

Bob Kuhn Waiting for the Sockeyes Acrylic on board 24 by 22 inches Sold by Altermann Galleries for $163,000

Upcoming Auctions August 11th Santa Fe October 18th Dallas November 18th Santa Fe Submit images for evaluation to info@altermann.com More information at www.altermann.com 345 Camino del Monte Sol Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 983-1590

7172 East Main Street Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 945-0448 SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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BRADLY J. BONER

the confidence to approve two other projects inspired by the actual West rather than Hollywood’s idea of it.

“I think many of our second homeowners go through a series of phases,” Diehl says. “When they first move to Jackson Hole or buy their home here, they want a ‘log cabin in the mountains’ and fill it with rather traditional work and furnishings because it reminds them of their childhood image of the Wild West, or because they want an ‘experience’ when they visit their Jackson home. Then, after four or five years, they branch out and realize they can have a home in the West and include more contemporary works.

Finally, after ten years or so, clients are at the point that they’re ready to redo their homes and create an aesthetic that speaks to their taste, rather than a ‘look’ they aspired to but that may not have really been theirs. That’s when the fun starts.” JH

The lobby at Hotel Terra, the world’s first LEED-certified boutique hotel, has a contemporary western feel, complete with Ben Roth’s sculpture made from one-hundred-year-old barn wood and artistic black and white wildlife photographs.

Western Design Conference BRADLY J. BONER

For twenty years, this annual marketplace of functional art has both defined and inspired western design.

The first Western Design Conference had twenty-nine exhibitors. In 2012—the twentieth year of the event—there are more than one hundred exhibitors, each invited to participate only after being selected by a panel of judges. More than two hundred artists and craftsmen and Brad Greenwood, of Beckwourth, California, -women apply for the show’s limited spots.

“There’s no doubt you’re running with the big dogs here,” says Supaya Gray Wolfe, a Camp took Best in Show at the 2010 Western Design Conference with his desk made of eight different Verde, Arizona-based artist who has won numerous awards at the conference over her seven- kinds of wood and inlaid with copper leaf. teen years participating in it. Attendees are still talking about a piece from the 2010 conference. Brad Greenwood, of Beckwourth, California, made a desk using eight different kinds of wood and inlaid with copper leaf. There is a secret drawer, which takes two movements to open, where an antique derringer sits on a sheepskin. A replica 1871 map of the area that became Yellowstone National Park lines the main drawer. “This piece was incredible,” says Nancy McCullough-McCoy, the conference’s director. “But all of the pieces are at this level.” Wolfe adds, “You walk into the pavilion and look around and in no corner of the room is there any junk sitting around. All of the artists have exceptional talent.”

All of the artists have exceptional vision as well. While it is the Western Design Conference, the conference has a very loose definition of western. Yes, there are cowboy boots, spurs, burled wood, and leather, but “for every piece you’d judge as traditionally western, there is another that completely challenges your idea of the genre,” says Allison Merritt, event manager for the conference. The 2009 winner in the fashion category, Machteld Schrameyer, was born in the Netherlands, started her label, IOTA, in New York City, and now lives in Kentucky. Mori Furniture Design might be based in Colorado, but is inspired by the work of Japanese-American furniture designer George Nakashima.

In addition to fashion, exhibition categories include leather, metal, home accents, woodworking, and jewelry. Everything exhibited is functional. Winners and runner-ups are announced in each category, and there is a Best in Show. In total, more than $22,000 in prize money is awarded. Of course, the goal of each artist is to sell his or her exhibition piece. Collectors, designers, buyers, and gallerists come to the Exhibit + Sale from across the country.

Since it is entering its third decade, the conference’s jury makes sure to bring in new artists. About 40 percent of the exhibitors in any given year are at the conference for the first time. (For comparison, the National Museum of Wildlife Art’s Western Visions Show & Sale, another Jackson-based, nationally recognized exhibition artists must apply to, only accepts a handful of newcomers each year.) “Bringing new and veteran artists together during the Exhibit + Sale yields innovative thinking and makes it more exciting for buyers and browsers,” Merritt says.

The three-day, gallery-style Exhibit + Sale (September 7 to 9) is the backbone of the Western Design Conference, but events also include lectures, a benefit, and a gala live jewelry and fashion show, all of which will be held September 6. For a complete schedule or to buy tickets, go to westerndesignconference.com.

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Fl y F is h in g

H u n ti n g

R a nc h i n g

C o n s e r v ati o n

Cody Creek Ranch

Custom Estate in Jackson Hole, WY A rare 65-acre property with amazing amenities, Cody Creek Ranch is totally private with protected view corridors on surrounding properties. Enjoy fishing the world-class private spring creek fishery on Cody Creek and six trout ponds. The 4,500 sq� custom log residence is well suited for relaxing western getaways and entertaining, and the 1,000 sq� guest cabin is ideal for visits from friends and family.

Wildlife is abundant with moose, elk, ducks, geese and swans. Surrounded by high-end estates in the Dairy Subdivision, 3 Creek Ranch, Indian Springs and Ely Springs, Cody Creek Ranch leaves a lasting legacy through enhancement, preservation and conservation. Offering price is $11,900,000.

Grand Vista

Legacy Offering in Jackson Hole, WY 290 acres with 8 deeded lots east of Spring Gulch Rd. One of the most scenic open spaces in Jackson Hole Abundant widlife with elk, moose and deer $25,000,000

Bar Cross Ranch

Washakie Wilderness Ranch

Sporting Ca�le Ranch in Pinedale, WY

Dubois, WY Private Retreat

32,783 controlled acres

Base of the Ramshorn Peak

National Forest Boundary

160 acres & 1,845 sq� cabin

Trophy trout fishing

Bordering National Forest

$21,900,000

$1,850,000

8 0 2 W. B r o a d w a y, 2 n d F l o o r | J a c k s o n H o l e , W Y | 3 0 7 . 7 3 4 . 6 1 0 0

www.LiveWaterProperties.com SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Special Interest Feature

Peak Properties T

he factor that makes the Jackson Hole real estate market so unusual is the relative scarcity of private land. Ninetyseven percent of Teton County, Wyoming, is publicly owned—either national park, national forest, or wildlife refuge.

This computes to just 75,000 privately held acres in a county spanning 2.5 million acres. The guaranteed open spaces and unobstructed views these surrounding public lands afford make the remaining private land a real treasure. Add the abundance of recreational opportunities found in and around the valley, and the quality of life one can enjoy in Jackson Hole is simply unbeatable.

Moreover, many of the properties featured here are secluded, scenic retreats located in the midst of prime wildlife habitat. Most existing and prospective property owners in Jackson Hole cherish this notion, and serve—or will serve—as stewards of nature.

One cannot put a dollar value on waking to the Teton skyline, skiing home for lunch, or listening to a trout stream gurgling through the backyard. In Jackson Hole, “living with nature” is not a fleeting, vicarious experience a person has while watching TV. Here it’s a fact of life, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

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Ski-in Ski-out Estate at Granite Ridge

Bar BC Ranch

This new custom home is stunning in all respects. Frame-built with chinked timber & stone siding; accented with Douglas fir logs. Exceptional construction quality. Extraordinary custom furnishings included. 7,302 SF, 4 bedrooms & 1-bedroom full guest apartment. True ski-in ski-out property. $8,950,000.

Set against the stunning Teton Mountain background, each mountainside or riverfront ranch is a spectacular wilderness retreat with building sites chosen for their solitude and outstanding Teton views. Available ranches range from 35 to 53 acres.

Each has a unique and stunning topography with mountain fir, aspen, willow and native foliage. #0147287.

Melissa Harrison, Sales Associate & Steve Robertson, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates, 307.690.0086 melissaharrison@jhrea.com

Tom Evans & Dave Spackman, Associate Brokers Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty Tom.Evans@jhsir.com Dave.Spackman@jhsir.com

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

Luxury Estate with Grand Views

Huntsman Springs Serenity

Nestled in an aspen grove on 5.32 acres, this property has a very private setting yet spectacular Teton views. The home consists of 8,365 sq ft with 6 bedrooms and 6.5 baths. In addition, there are two offices, a theater room, workout room, sauna, leather paneled bar with wine cellar, and an 800 sq ft covered deck with gas grill and hot tub. Above the 3-car garage is a 2 bedroom, 1 bath apartment. Indian Springs Ranch offers homeowners a clubhouse, tennis courts, swimming pool, and equestrian facilities. Sold furnished. $7,495,000. #0148091.

Luxury home of outstanding quality on the most awarded golf course in the U.S. designed by renowned David McLay Kidd. The 5 bedroom, 5.5 bath, 4,482 sq. ft. Larry Berlin home has granite, hardwood, 8’ doors and landscaping. Golf club membership included. #0226548.

Tom Evans, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty, 307.739.8149 Tom.Evans@jhsir.com, www.TomEvansRealEstate.com

Ed Liebzeit President & Chief Operating Officer, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty 208.354.1888 • 307.413.1618 Ed.Liebzeit@JHSIR.com

The Historic Dell Fork Ranch

Crescent H Ranch

This jewel of a historic ranch has two miles of private trout-filled streams packed into its 127 acres. Thirty miles from Jackson Hole, the ranch boasts a new log cabin, original homesteader’s cabins, barns and bunkhouse. Adjacent public lands offer 4 additional miles of trophy trout fishing on the creeks. For the big game hunter, moose, elk, Mule deer are on the property. The Historic Dell Fork Ranch quietly balances ranching and outdoor traditions in a contemporary place to relax and enjoy the West at its best. $3.995M.

Abundant wildlife, forested hillsides, open meadows, the stream and pond create a sense of harmony and privacy on this 35 acre parcel. A custom log guest cabin furnished in western décor presents a place of inspiration to create the home of your dreams.

The cabin rests in an awe inspiring setting with serene views of The Grand Tetons, Sleeping Indian and the Jackson Hole Valley.

MLS# 09-1237 $5,750,000.

Carlos Ordonez, Sales Associate 307.734.6100 or 307.690.6375 carlos@livewaterproperties.com

David A. NeVille, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates davidneville@jhrea.com 307.690.3209

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Crystal Springs condo at Teton Village

Western Contemporary with Teton Views

This ski in, ski out condo boasts two fireplaces, a gourmet kitchen, a deck with beautiful mountain views, and great short term rental return! There are 3 bedrooms, 3.5 baths and it is priced to sell at $1,675,000. Slope-side for the ultimate in convenience and quality throughout! Underground parking, close proximity to all Teton Village activities. Use of pool, spa, and room service included through Snake River Lodge and Spa!

Beautiful western contemporary with 360 degree views, stunning architecture and a modern floor plan located in Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis Club Estates north of town.

Radiant floor heat and air conditioning keep the living spaces comfortable year round. Entertaining is easy on the private patio with fire pit, an outdoor kitchen and built-in seating.

Two river rock fireplaces, two sunken living rooms and a gourmet chef's kitchen provide the ingredients for effortless one level living.

Ted Dawson, Margi Barrie, Kent Hobson, Jeff Dupont Spring Creek Ranch Realty, 307.732.8188 www.springcreekranchrealty.com

The Walton Ranch

RARE HOME SITE BORDERING NATIONAL FOREST

Set along the legendary Snake River in the shadow of the magnificent Grand Teton, this legacy property is minutes from downtown Jackson, world-class skiing and air service. The 1,848-acre ranch is an operating cattle ranch with its own resident elk herd and fishing access along three miles of the Snake River. Surrounded by natural beauty and close to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, the Walton Ranch offers a rare opportunity to own a sizable ranch in one of the most sought-after locations in the world. $100,000,000.

Enjoy privacy and Sleeping Indian views from this .89 acre parcel, which borders the National Forest and is at the very top of Granite Ridge. Easements provide direct ski-in/ski-out access to the slopes of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. The Four Seasons Resort and hiking trails to Grand Teton National Park are both within walking distance. Lot 3 at Granite Ridge is the best available ski-in/ski-out home site at Teton Village.

One of the sellers is a Wyoming real estate licensee.

Ranch Marketing Associates Ron Morris 970.535.0881 and Billy Long 970.927.3850 ron@rmabrokers.com, billy@rmabrokers.com 46

Carol Linton, Associate Broker JH Sotheby’s International Realty, 307.739.8159 Carol.Linton@jhsir.com, www.carollinton.com

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

John Resor, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty 307.739.8062 john.resor@jhsir.com

3 Creek Ranch

3 Acre Ranch

This last available 3 Creek Ranch 35 acre parcel features massive Grand Teton views over an incredible wide open landscape. Spring Creek meanders through the property and gathers into pristine ponds serving as both Trumpeter swan habitat and the spawning grounds for Cutthroat trout.

Surrounded by protected lands and with more water features than any other site at 3 Creek, Ranch 6 truly captures the world renowned natural beauty of the Jackson Hole Valley.

Small three acre ranch between Wilson and Teton Village tucked away at end of a quiet lane. Custom built 3 bedroom/loft home with living room, open kitchen and family room with 3 wood burning fireplaces. Idyllic guest cabin features 2 bedrooms, sunroom and wrap-around porch. Outbuilding houses garages, workshop and an additional upstairs apartment consisting of 2 bedrooms, bath, office and tons of storage. Elevated irrigated flower/vegetable beds, expansive lawn, panoramic Teton views and convenience to Wilson bike path. $2,495,000.

Todd Domenico, Broker/Owner 3 Creek Ranch Real Estate Services LLC, 307.739.9292 Tdomenico@3creekranch-jh.com, www.3creekranch-jh.com

Mercedes Huff, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty www.mercedeshuff.com, Mercedes.Huff@jhsir.com

On the Golf Course In Teton Pines

Fantastic Granite Ridge Townhome

This Teton Pines cluster home is situated on a flowing stream adjacent the 14th fairway featuring unobstructed mountain views of the Teton Range. The thoughtful floor plan consists of 3 large downstairs bedrooms and 2 baths. The upper floor boasts a huge great room with stone fireplace, vaulted ceilings, kitchen, powder room and spacious master suite with direct access to the large deck area. $1,695,000.

Fantastic opportunity to own one of the best Carney designed townhomes in Granite Ridge subdivision. Quality finishes can be found throughout with custom alder cabinetry, sub-zero and Viking appliances, solid stone surfaces in the kitchen and bathrooms. Owners will enjoy the close access and amenities of the Village Core, the Grand Teton National Park and the legendary Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Resort zoned with short term vacation rental potential. $2,300,000.

Jeff Ward 307.690.0873, Jeff.Ward@JHSIR.com, Kelli Ward 307.690.5286, Kelli.Ward@JHSIR.com Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty www.realtygroupjh.com, www.jhsir.com

Jake Kilgrow, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty 307.413.2822, jake.kilgrow@jhsir.com www.realtygroupjh.com, www.jhsir.com SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Over

River and Through the

the Woods Jackson Hole’s trail culture

BY KEVIN HUELSMANN

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BRADLY J. BONER

The additions and improvements to the trails on Teton Pass have benefited the annual Teton Pass Hill Climb. Dozens of miles of trails have been built on the pass in the last five years.

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WHEN KEVIN KAVANAGH worked as the assistant general manager at the Rusty Parrot Lodge and Spa, he spent a lot of time directing guests to places they could get in a quick hike, ride, or trail run. “Quick” being the operative word. Visitors knew about Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, but these were full-day destinations. What they were asking about were frontcountry trails—easily accessible trails a short drive (if a drive at all) from downtown.

“Visitors to Jackson Hole think hiking, or biking, are things they really need to do here, but a lot of the time they want to be back in town for dinner,” says Kavanagh, who moved to the valley in 1994. Kavanagh, who, because he worked full-time, also liked the quick fixes frontcountry trails offered, directed his Rusty Parrot guests to one of several areas he’d often go after work—Game Creek, Cache Creek, Ski Lake, and Black Canyon, among others.

In 2003, Kavanagh went beyond merely recommending and using trails. He, along with Harlan Hottenstein, Anne Marie Curley, and Clay Curley, founded Teton Freedom Riders (TFR). The four, all self-professed heavy frontcountry trail users, had noticed the increasing popularity of trail-related activities. Not to mention the increased population of the valley.

Mountain bikers, horseback riders, trail runners, hikers, and dog walkers all shared the same trails and all in increasing numbers. Trails weren’t just crowded but also eroding and degrading faster than they could be repaired and maintained. TFR was founded in part to advocate for and perform sustainable trail construction, maintenance, advancement, and safety. “It was obvious something needed to be done,” Kavanagh says.

Kavanagh’s trajectory in Jackson closely follows many of the important moments that have shaped the way the valley’s trail network has developed over the last ten years. Working at The Rusty Parrot, Kavanagh saw firsthand how visitors were shifting their focus away from multipleday backcountry hikes and camping trips to quicker outings that fit into tighter and busier schedules. As a local who wanted to exercise and get into the wilderness on a daily basis rather than just on weekends, he was part of the explosion of users on frontcountry trails. And then, with Teton Freedom Riders, Kavanagh helped encourage community involvement in—beyond mere use of—the valley’s trail system.

THE NETWORK OF trails in the Jackson area now measures about one thousand miles. It includes everything from paved pathways to scenic, abandoned service roads, remote, rarely traveled wilderness trails, technical downhill tracks with dirt jumps, buff single-track loops locals can hit on their lunch hours, and mellow paths around lakes.

Several hundred miles of trails are in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. While these are all open to hikers and most are also open to livestock, they are all closed to mountain bikers. These are certainly resources for both locals and visitors, but they haven’t seen 50

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PRICE CHAMBERS

“Visitors to Jackson Hole think hiking, or biking, are things they really need to do here, but a lot of the time they want to be back in town for dinner.”

Dave Coyne tows skateboarder Lance Downing along a pathway in Grand Teton National Park. The park’s pathway system is still in progress, with at least two more sections planned for construction.

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PRICE CHAMBERS

much increase in use over the last decade and are generally backcountry trails that require a time investment of more than a couple of hours.

The most popular trails and those seeing the heaviest use on a daily basis today are predominantly in the BridgerTeton National Forest (BTNF). BTNF manages seven hundred miles of trails in the Gros Ventre Wilderness, on Munger Mountain, in the Mount Leidy Highlands, around Ditch Creek, up Cache Creek, in the Wyoming Range, and around Teton Pass, to name just a

While the National Park Service has always been very deliberate in the planning and building of its trails, trails in national forest are a different story. The first “trails” in the BTNF were often made by horse hooves. Wildlife helped, too, cutting game trails across hillsides and up drainages. It was these “trails” early hikers followed. And these unplanned trails worked just fine for their time.

In the 1950s, as the nation’s highway system grew and cars gained popularity, more and more tourists began coming to Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks—and exploring the rest of Jackson Hole. They wanted to hike and ride (horses, not mountain bikes; mountain bikes weren’t invented until the late 1970s/early ’80s). They hiked and rode in the national parks, but also in the Bridger-Teton.

After all, the BTNF encompasses 3.4 million acres, almost one million acres more than Grand Teton and Yellowstone combined. Responding to the influx of

BTNF’s trails generated $18 million in economic activity in 2010—nearly $17 million of this came from visitors—and created approximately 213 jobs. few areas. An estimated 2.2 million people use the Bridger-Teton annually.

Approximately 35 percent of these users live in Teton, Lincoln, and Sublette counties.

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Fifteen years ago, the trail on High School Butte was loose and rocky and went straight up. Today’s improved trail has switchbacks and is packed down. The short climb is still steep, though.

visitors, BTNF began building new trails. By the 1980s, there were trails on and around Snow King, at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, and around Teton Pass. And these trails worked just fine for their time.

It was in the 1990s that the way locals and visitors began to use trails really changed. “Locals wanted to be able to recreate every day, not just on their days off.

Visitors didn’t necessarily want to spend their entire vacations in the woods,” says Rebecca Woods Bloom, whose book, Jackson Hole Hikes, first published in the early 1990s, is now in its fifth edition.

“This doesn’t mean that people don’t get out and go to far-flung backcountry destinations that are real wilderness experiences, but, on a daily basis, people are using trails close to population centers to stay in shape. And in the last twelve years, it’s these trails that really have been improved and added to.”

BRADLY J. BONER

RUSTIC ELEGANCE

In the mid-1990s, BTNF staff began applying for Recreational Trails Program (RTP) money. An assistance program of the Department of Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration, RTP funds, which come from the Federal Highway Trust Fund, are distributed to each state for projects benefiting recreation. The BTNF has used RTP money to install boardwalks and do trail maintenance in Cache Creek, an area immediately southeast of Jackson; build new trails on Snow King and Crystal Butte; and to build and maintain trails on Teton Pass. “We successfully competed for funds again this year, but the future of the program is uncertain,” says Linda Merigliano, the recreation program manager for Bridger-Teton National Forest’s Jackson Ranger District.

Not including RTP funds, the BTNF Jackson Ranger District is receiving approximately $76,000 for trails in 2012.

This is supposed to cover trail maintenance and improvement, some travel management, some salaries (a trail crew supervisor and recreation program manager), and one vehicle. After the salaries and vehicle are taken care of, there’s about $21,000 in discretionary funds left. “We figure the average maintenance cost for a mile of trail is $500,” Merigliano says. “Do the math and that comes out to $350,000 just for maintenance.” So how does BTNF not only keep trails in shape but also manage to meet the demand for new, more easily accessed trails?

In 2012, BTNF has $21,000 for trail maintenance and improvement. With more than seven hundred miles of trails and an average cost of $500/mile to maintain, BTNF relies heavily on volunteers. In 2008, 750 Boy Scouts helped build twelve miles of trails.

“VOLUNTEER CONTRIBUTIONS are huge,” Merigliano says. “We have a lot of projects that wouldn’t get done if we didn’t have volunteers to help.” In 2000, BTNF staff reached out to Friends of Pathways, a nonprofit advocacy group that helps support trail construction and stewardship in the valley. BTNF wanted Friends of Pathways to help develop new trails and to manage the greater Snow King trail network. Friends of Pathways agreed. To install Mutt-Mitt stations, which dispense small bags to pick up animal waste, at area trailheads in 2002, BTNF teamed up with PAWS of Jackson Hole, a nonprofit that supports area animal shelters and promotes responsible pet ownership.

A massive collaboration happened in 2004. Valley residents, regular trail users, and Friends of Pathways worked with BTNF to design a new system of trails on Teton Pass. In 2008, 750 Boy Scouts joined in, helping to build twelve miles of the new trails the organizations had collaboratively designed. Merigliano now regularly gets inquiries from groups—this spring, the Four Seasons Resort called on behalf of guests coming to the valley this summer who wanted to do a service

SNAKE RIVER GRILL 307-733-0557 ON THE TOWN SQUARE SNAKERIVERGRILL.COM

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back-breaking work of digging new routes to removing fallen trees and constructing erosion controls. If BTNF had to pay for those hours—assuming they had the money—the bill would have been between $150,000 and $200,000.

“It’s all about having a sense of ownership,” says Kavanagh. Merigliano, who checks in on many of the BTNF’s “dig days,” says, “People are really proud of the work they do. At the end of a

bradly j. boner

project—asking to help with volunteer programs. “Todd Cedarholm, owner of On Sight Land Surveyors, paid his staff for a day of going out and helping with the trails,” Merigliano says. “Kids from the Jackson Hole High School Nordic team come out. It’s an amazing variety of people and groups that want to help.”

BTNF staff estimates that in 2010 alone, volunteers gave 10,226 hours to the valley’s trails, doing everything from the

Teton Trail Runners organizer Alyssa Larsen, right, jogs during a group run up Cache Creek. The trail is a popular destination for several user groups in Jackson Hole.

Teton Trail Runners ALYSSA LARSEN FOUNDED Teton Trail Runners (TTR) five years ago. Today, more than a dozen runners come to the group’s weekly summer runs. Members also socialize, trade information on trail conditions, and work to support races in the region. “It’s a huge team of support,” says Jamie Wise, who has lived in the area for nearly two decades. “I didn’t know anyone in the group two years ago, and they’ve become friends.” The group includes men and women of all ages and skill levels, from former collegiate athletes training for big races to new runners.

Larsen founded TTR after moving to Jackson from Bozeman, Montana, where she ran with a group called the Big Sky Wind Drinkers. The Wind Drinkers helped push Larsen to run her first five-kilometer race. When she moved to Jackson, she went looking for a similar group but didn’t find one. She missed the group running experience—support, inspiration, and the social aspect—enough that she decided to launch her own running club, modeled on Bozeman’s Wind Drinkers. “The Wind Drinkers truly inspired me,” Larsen says. “I wanted to provide that opportunity for other new runners.”

After calling around to valley gyms to make sure a running group didn’t already exist, Larsen bought a website—www.tetontrailrunners.com—made a group run schedule, and started distributing the schedule at local races. The group officially became a nonprofit in 2010.

Today, between June and September (snow levels permitting) the group meets every Tuesday at 6 p.m. Meeting locations are posted at www.tetontrailrunners.com. Runs range in difficulty from “flat as a pancake” to “OK, this is tough, but you can hike if you have to, and this run is worth the effort.”

Runs are also worth it because each ends with a raffle. Jack Dennis Sports, Pearl Street Bagels, Snake River Brewing Company, Skinny Skis, and Jackson Hole Health and Fitness all sponsor the group. Raffle prizes range from free entry to area races to bags of bagels and gear discounts.

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project, they can clearly see what they accomplished and that they made a substantial improvement.” Jed Sims, who moved to the valley late last summer and rides the downhill trails on Teton Pass about four times a week, volunteered at a couple of dig days. “I wanted to give back a little bit,” he says.

“No other forest service trails are like these—there are features and big jumps.

That stuff takes a lot of effort to build and also lots to maintain.”

BTNF’s collaborations have resulted in actual cash, too. Two years ago, Friends of Pathways landed a Wyoming Business Council Community Enhancement Grant worth nearly $500,000. In partnership with Snow King Resort, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, the U.S. Forest Service, and Teton County, Friends of Pathways also raised an equal amount of matching funds. With almost $1 million in funding, the Jackson Hole Trails Project (JHTP) was born. During 2010 and 2011, the JHTP built twenty-nine miles of new trails on Snow King, Teton Pass, and at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

It’s not just frontcountry trails that are being built. A paved pathway system began to develop in the late 1990s and today includes more than fifty-five miles open to bikers, runners, walkers, in-line skaters, and skateboarders— anyone moving along under their own power. Jackson Hole Community Pathways estimates between three thousand and four thousand people use some part of its system on a given summer day. “There is huge community support for pathways,” says Brian Schilling, Jackson Hole Community Pathways Coordinator. “People really recognize that pathways not only allow you to be active, but also create bonds that tie the community together, even if it’s just allowing you to walk or bike to work or school.”

Schilling also calls pathways “a gateway drug.” “Some people who might not think of exploring a dirt trail will use pathways. They might see a trailhead off the pathway and wonder where it goes.

One day, maybe they’ll try it.” Once the pathways system is complete, which is still several years off, it will include nearly one hundred miles and provide safe access between the town of Jackson and Grand Teton National Park, across the Snake River to Teton Village and Wilson, and south to Hoback.

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JACKSON HOLE ISN’T alone in seeing growth in the demand for and the use of trails.

According to the 2011 Outdoor Foundation’s “Outdoor Recreation Participation Report,” 140 million Americans engaged in some type of outdoor activity.

This equates to nearly 50 percent of all Americans six and older and 10.1 billion outdoor outings. While the report, which has been issued annually since 2007, tracks participation in 114 different outdoor activities, it is trail-related activities that are the most popular. Hiking, mountain biking, and trail running were all in the top five most popular activities as revealed in the report.

Another report reveals trails aren’t just for fun. A study published in 2011 by a University of Wyoming graduate student estimated that the BTNF’s trails generated $18 million in economic activity in 2010—approximately $1.1 million by local trail users and $16.9 million by out-of-town users—and created approximately 213 jobs.

MORE PEOPLE OUT enjoying trails means users have to be more careful about potential conflicts. A mountain biker speeding around a turn can spook a horse. Dogs can accidentally trip runners. In 2006, a cyclist and an in-line skater traveling in the same direction on the pathway adjacent to Highway 390 collided. The in-line skater eventually died from his injuries.

More trails and pathways would seem to be the simple answer, especially since volunteers have already proven themselves so willing to help. But more trails could bring increased interactions of a different kind: between users and wildlife.

Trails, wherever they are in the valley, are in wildlife habitat. Moose are regularly on the pathway between Highway 22 and The Aspens. Black bear have been spotted in the area, too.

“Trails are a form of habitat fragmentation,” says Franz Camenzind, who served as executive director of the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance for more

Hit It! Downhill mountain biking Andy Olpin, owner of Wilson Backcountry Sports, likes linking Jimmy’s Mom to Powerline Jumps to the Parallel trail because, “You can hit them all with only one shuttle.” These are all technical downhill trails with drops and other man-made features.

Even though all features have goarounds, we don’t recommend this adventure for a newbie mountain biker. Jimmy’s Mom starts across from the Phillips trailhead. For a map and descriptions of the trails around Teton Pass, go to www.fs.usda.gov/main/ btnf/maps-pubs Cross-country mountain biking The Cache Creek to Game Creek trail is one of the older mountain biking trails in the valley, but, thanks to recent maintenance, it’s still a favorite. “We have an annual race

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than thirty years and is an avid back- and frontcountry hiker. Camenzind says the new frontcountry trails are different from the trails historically in the valley.

“Historically, trails were destination trails—they would take us to a destination in the backcountry—Goodwin Lake or Turquoise Lake. Now we’re seeing a demand for recreational trails. Destination trails, they are not high-density, but recreational trails … you have lots of those per square mile of land.”

Camenzind cites Snow King as an example of recreational trail density. “You have three or four trails paralleling each other on the side of the mountain,” he says. “Deer run off the trail, go a little way, and find themselves on another trail.”

“This isn’t to say new trails can’t be put in, but we need to be careful and look at the larger landscape to see what the impact is,” Camenzind says. “I think the trail system we have is outstanding.

But it’s not just about us.” JH

Excited to try some of the valley’s frontcountry trails?

Here are recommendations and resources, whichever your preferred method of exploration.

on this trail; it’s a classic,” says Joel Ahlum, the bike fit manager at Hoback Sports. To get in as much singletrack as possible, Ahlum likes riding Cache Creek to Game Creek to West Game to Ferrins. “That brings you back to the Cache Creek parking lot,” Ahlum says.

There’s also a paved pathway back to town from Game Creek. For a map of these trails and others in the greater Snow King area, go to www.fs.usda. gov/main/btnf/maps-pubs Horseback riding According to Karen Saner, one of the founding members of the Teton Backcountry Horsemen of America, it’s possible you won’t see another rider on the horse-only trail up Black Canyon from the Trail Creek parking lot at the base of Teton Pass. Ride all the way to the top of the pass and back down or turn around whenever

you or your horse has had enough.

Call Saner for more details or recommendations: 733-1356.

Road biking “The North 89 pathway from town to Moose or maybe the Moose-Wilson Path from Stilson Ranch to Teton Village/GTNP” are Jackson Hole Community Pathways Coordinator Brian Schilling’s recommendations for road bikers looking for mellow, trafficfree rides. Find a map of the valley’s entire pathways system at www. friendsofpathways.org/resources Grand Teton National Park No bikes are allowed on any of the trails in the park. A new section of pathway from town all the way up to the southern park entrance opens this summer, joining the alreadyexisting seven-mile pathway from

Moose to Jenny Lake. A map of the pathways and bike-friendly roads in GTNP can be found at www. friendsofpathways.org/resources Hiking/running “My favorite weekday run is to head up Josie’s and run along the ridge to Ferrins,” says Eric Orton, a Jackson-based personal running coach made famous in the New York Times best-selling book Born To Run. But wait, he’s not finished yet. “Then I come down Ferrins and loop back via Hagen or Sink or Swim.” Orton says this loop gives you everything— steep climbs, an epic alpine “feel,” views of the valley, and a fun, fast descent. For a map of these trails and others in the greater Snow King trail system, go to www.fs.usda.gov/ main/btnf/maps-pubs

— Dina Mishev

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Peaks

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& Valleys The Ups & Downs of Jackson Hole’s Economy

By dina mishev with Myles C. Rademan Photography by Bradly j. boner

The jagged silhouettes of the Tetons looming over Jackson Hole are sublimely oblivious to the economic shocks that have shaken the valley and the world the last several years. These iconic peaks bespeak ageless permanence, but it’s an illusion. Nothing remains the same, not mountains, not towns, and certainly not economies. Not even Jackson Hole’s.

No one knows what next year—let alone the next five, ten, or twentyfive—will look like. We all know how foolish predictions can be. Maybe pioneering U.S. computer scientist Alan Kay is right: “The best way to predict the future is to create it.” Can Jackson Hole create its own economic future? What might it look like?

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The Past Before we look to the future, we must understand where we’ve been. Jonathan Schechter, Executive Director of the Charture Institute, a Jackson-based think tank, says Jackson Hole’s economy has gone through four phases: hunter/ gatherer, agriculture, tourism, and lifestyle.

Native Americans and mountain men seasonally came into the valley to hunt in the centuries (Native Americans) and decades (mountain men) before the first white settlers arrived in the 1880s. The seasonal hunters never became permanent valley residents because it was too cold and isolated.

Jackson Hole Historical Society

horses instead of RVs parked around the Town Square. Frank Bell, a Jackson police investigator in the 1970s who went on to become the town manager of both Crested Butte and Telluride, points out that even forty years ago most of the valley’s big ranches had been sold off, and there weren’t many real cowboys around. “There was only about thirty years or so—maybe not even that—just one generation, where there wasn’t an active tourism economy in the valley,” Schechter says. “The symbolic importance of agriculture is far greater than the actual economic consequences of it.”

After the explosion of dude ranches, it wasn’t until the 1950s that valley tourism got its next big boost: the growth in popularity of the nearby national parks. Changes in transportation made Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks standard vacation spots. With new roads and better cars, Jackson Hole was no longer as isolated as it was earlier in the century.

Downtown Jackson in 1931, a year before the Town Square was planted with trees and officially named George Washington Memorial Park.

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The valley’s first permanent residents were Mormons; they began arriving in the 1880s and relied on agriculture and extractive industries (like timber) to make a living. It was a tough living. By 1900, Jackson Hole’s population was still only about 630, less than one-third that of any other Wyoming county. Settlers stuck it out, though, scratching out an agrarian living until the 1920s, when the next phase of Jackson Hole’s economy began to kick in: tourism.

Between 1920 and 1930 the number of dude ranches in the valley quintupled. In 1920, there were five dude ranches. A decade later, that number had grown to twenty-four. “People quickly realized that dudes were a more reliable source of income than cattle,” Schechter says.

Former U.S. Speaker of the House Tip O’Neill once famously remarked that: “Where you stand depends on where you sit.” Many valley old-timers today are nostalgic for a gauzy, golden ranching past when cows outnumbered ski bums and it was

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

As of 1960, though, Jackson Hole was still only a summer destination. The joke at the time was that Jackson Hole had the longest cocktail hour of any place in the country. It lasted from Labor Day until Memorial Day, the nine months when the dudes and national park visitors were gone.

(Read all about it in Donald Hough’s somewhatfictional 1956 book, The Cocktail Hour in Jackson Hole.)

When Paul McCollister got the idea to build a destination ski resort in Jackson Hole, he was able to get a million-dollar, low-interest, governmentsponsored loan to develop it. “Jackson Hole was viewed as another Appalachia because the economy was so poor for nine months of the year,” Schechter says. When the Jackson Hole Ski Corporation opened as one of the steepest, most challenging ski resorts in the country in 1965, the valley’s threemonth tourism season became a seven-month tourism season.

“One of the things that distinguishes Jackson Hole from other mountain towns is that our tourism economy isn’t based on skiing,” Schechter says. “Jackson Hole is a summer tourism mecca that happens to have a world-class ski area. Every other ski town is almost completely dependent on its winter economy.”

Summer and winter tourism kept growing during the decades after the Jackson Hole Ski Corporation opened. (Jackson Hole Ski Corp.

“Jackson Hole is a summer tourism mecca that happens to have a world-class ski area. Every other ski town is almost completely dependent on its winter economy.”

became Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Corporation in 1999.) In 1982, the Chamber of Commerce started the Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival to extend the summer tourist season into September. It worked.

September is now one of the busiest months in the valley. Schechter doesn’t define the valley’s economy as tourism-based anymore, though. “By 1990, the valley had begun its transition to a lifestyle economy,” he says.

“This isn’t to say tourism isn’t still important— it’s profoundly important to tourism-oriented businesses and for providing sales tax revenues to local government. What has changed over the last couple of decades is that tourism is no longer the community’s economic growth engine. Instead, it’s become the people who are drawn to the valley because this is the place they want to live.”

Over the last twenty years or so, it has become increasingly easy to do the work you want to do in the place you want to live. Changes in technology, transportation, and the economy, among other

things, have made this possible. And people have been deciding that they want to live in Jackson Hole … especially since these same changes have also greatly reduced the sacrifices one needs to make in order to live here.

“You could argue that Jackson Hole has always been a lifestyle community, because there’s always been a large contingent of residents who have made perceived sacrifices to live here— moving away from loved ones, not being as professionally successful as they might have been elsewhere, not making as much money or having as intellectually stimulating a job as in a big city, being far removed from shopping or cultural experiences or what have you, ” Schechter says.

“What’s changed in the last couple of decades is that many of these perceived sacrifices have been greatly diminished or gone away altogether. Now you can earn big bucks, have a stimulating job, enjoy a high degree of culture, and still live in this place, which makes your heart sing.”

Jackson today is still surrounded by open space, but, where development has been allowed, is much more built up.

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The Present In 1970, there were 1,995 homes in Teton County. Leap ahead two decades, and between 1990 and 2000, more than 3,200 homes and condos were built in the valley. From 2000 to 2010, another 2,500 were added. This was a boom of unimaginable proportions and, until 2008, few people thought it could end. “Everybody was complicit in the prevailing belief that you couldn’t

Jackson Town Administrator Bob McLaurin is in the driver’s seat when it comes to steering Jackson into the future. “We had a great run during the building boom,” he says. “But how do you make ends meet after the thrill is gone?”

lose money buying real estate in Jackson Hole,” says Bob McLaurin, Jackson’s town administrator from 1990 to 1994, and again since 2003. And working in a real estate or a construction-related profession seemed like a license to print money.

But as elsewhere in the country, Jackson Hole’s real estate market crashed in 2008. Not only did property values plummet (see sidebar), but lots of local “working stiffs”—especially those with jobs

related to the building trades, such as construction workers, architects, lawyers, bankers, real estate agents, and the like—lost their jobs. Still, statistics show Teton County, which is synonymous with Jackson Hole, remains as rich as it has ever been.

For example, according to the Internal Revenue Service, in 2008, Teton County had the highest perreturn adjusted gross income of any county in America ($142,048). And, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce’s Bureau of Economic Analysis, since 2000, Teton County has ranked either first or second in per capita income. (Teton County was No. 1 in 2003, 2005, 2006, and 2007.)

But statistics can be misleading, particularly those such as per capita income, which can be heavily influenced by extreme wealth. At the middle and low ends of Teton County’s economic spectrum, local families that, until recently, considered themselves middle class, are now seeking help from various social services agencies, which are reporting more demand for services than they’ve ever experienced.

This disconnect is explained by how Teton County residents earn their income. According to the Bureau of Economic Analysis, in 2009, 63 percent of Teton County residents’ income came from investments, the highest percentage of any of the nation’s 3,113 counties. (The second-place county earned 58 percent from investments; the national average is 18 percent). In Teton County, residents earn 53 cents in wages and salaries for every dollar they earn in investments; in the nation as a whole, the figure is $3.58.

In Teton County, residents whose money earns money saw their incomes fall just 5 percent between 2008 and 2009. During that same time,

A pair of construction laborers work on the roof of a townhome being built on Snow King Avenue. From 2000 to 2010, 2,500 homes were built in the valley.

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local wages and salaries fell 8 percent. In 2010, the stock market saw significant gains (so investment income did, too) while wages and salaries did not. Bottom line: As the nation slowly crawls out of recession, the county’s wealthy residents and its wage earners are experiencing economic recovery very differently.

It’s not just the valley’s workers who are struggling. For the first time in years, local governments—the Town of Jackson and Teton County—are stressed, too.

Between 50 and 60 percent of both governments’ revenues come from sales taxes.

In 2008, the Town of Jackson had revenues of $16.3 million. The estimate for 2012 is $13.8 million, roughly the same as in 2006. Yet during the last six years, the population has continued to grow and with it, the demand for services.

“We’re trying to be responsible and live within the revenues available to us and do it in ways that are least disruptive to what residents and visitors expect,” says McLaurin, who, between his first and current stint as Jackson’s town administrator, was the town manager for Vail. “Most cuts were transparent. We sucked them up internally.”

Town reduced its employment by offering a retirement incentivization program, by shifting three police officers from town streets up to the airport, and by not filling vacated positions. Snowplowing staff was reduced, and there’s now little overtime. “I’ve gotten complaints about snowplowing,” McLaurin says. “We have to live within our means, but the high expectations for public services have not self-adjusted.” The Teton County Animal Shelter, which is run jointly by the town and county, is no longer open on Saturdays.

Hours at the Teton County Recreation Center, another joint town/county operation, have been reduced. “We really tried to make changes at the fringe. You’re contacting me directly because I don’t have a secretary,” McLaurin adds.

The revenue declines Jackson and Teton County have seen could have been worse. There is no real estate transfer tax in Jackson Hole like there is in many other resort areas. “Vail has a real estate transfer tax, so when things were going well, they were doing really well,” McLaurin says. “But when the bottom fell out, they were in a tougher position. They didn’t just lose sales tax, but also real estate transfer taxes.”

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Bob Grady, a venture capitalist, investment banker, and politico, recently moved to Jackson Hole to raise his children in a safer outdoorsy environment. Grady was a speechwriter for George H.W. Bush and is now on the board of the Jackson Hole Land Trust.

The Future “Over the next several years, the socioeconomics of Teton County will undergo a significant shift,” says Schechter. While our wage and salary economy is recovering, it’s not recovering as fast as financial markets. This suggests that the differences between Jackson Hole’s wealthy and working classes will likely continue to grow in coming years. In addition, increasing numbers of “tax mi-

grants” from states with high income taxes have begun moving to Jackson Hole, boosting the ranks of those with large incomes. Without a crystal ball, there’s no way to guess how this will play out. One possible outcome is increasing class tension.

There’s good and bad news in the Jackson Hole real estate market. Since early 2010, which is now recognized as the market’s bottom, there’s been an 83 percent increase in the number of sales. That’s the good news. The bad news is that across the market real estate values have decreased 30 to 40 percent from their 2007 peak. Total 64

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dollar volume of the market in 2007 was $1.576 billion; in 2011, it was $588 million.

“I believe the Jackson Hole market will recover much faster than markets in the rest of the country due to the simple law of supply and demand,” says David Viehman, owner/associate broker at Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates, an affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate, and co-author of the semiannual The Hole Report. Ninety-seven percent of Teton County is owned by the federal or state government or protected under conservation easements. The opportunity to privately own real estate in the valley is necessarily limited.

Another is that the community will pull together around a shared vision of the valley’s future.

Such a vision could be focusing on the valley’s economic future. Of course, a strong economy benefits both the county’s wealthy residents and its wage earners. “The key is to identify the things Jackson Hole has that are impossible for other communities to replicate,” Schechter says.

“Why will people—whether tourists or residents—want to keep coming to Jackson Hole?

What do we have that’s truly distinctive?”

Bob Grady, currently managing director of Cheyenne Capital and chairman of the New Jersey Council of Economic Advisors for Governor Chris Christie, recently moved to the valley full time. He wanted to raise his kids in a safe atmosphere dripping with natural amenities. “With all the technologies now available, distance is no longer an issue,” he explains. “You can be as busy as you want and still enjoy the close-knit, small-town, caring atmosphere.

In a sense, you can have a foot in both worlds.”

But there are plenty of safe places with a small-town atmosphere. “In a world where it’s becoming incredibly easy to do what you want to do where you want to do it, and where it’s becoming increasingly easy to replicate experiences—there’s skiing in Dubai and surfing in Phoenix—places are going to become more and more similar,” Schechter says.

Twenty miles north of the Great Wall of China, in Hebei Province, there’s a Jackson Hole. Chinese

For several years, though, the supply of real estate did exceed demand. But that’s changing now.

According to The Hole Report, inventory in the first quarter of 2012 is down 33 percent from its 2010 high.

Single-family homes between $400,000 and $700,000 are hottest—having both the highest level of interest from buyers and the fewest listings. In March, JHREA listed a 1,600-square-foot, single-family home in Rafter J. “We had twenty-one showings in four days and got four full-price offers,” Viehman says.

“We’re seeing bidding wars for the first time since 2007.”

Now to the important question: Where are the bargains? “There are actually some to be found at every price point. And they aren’t limited to distressed properties,” Viehman says.

Condo values have decreased more than the values of any other segment of the market—some are down as much as 70 percent. Combine this with the valley’s strong rental market and it’s no surprise investors and first-time homebuyers are being drawn to this market segment. It’s now possible to have a mortgage that is less than what you would pay (or, in the case of investors, have paid to you) in rent. This hasn’t been the case since the early 1990s.

While there is no crystal ball to look into, the future of the real estate market in Jackson Hole looks promising: prices have stabilized, first-time homebuyers are returning to the market, and investors recognize this is a smart place to invest.

“The worst is behind us in Jackson Hole,” Viehman says.

developers worked with Oregon-based designer Allison Smith to create an 850home, cowboys-and-Indians-themed resort development. Each home within the development has a motif: Billy the Kid, Geronimo, Stagecoach Station, Betsy, Big Bear, etc. These Chinese homes feature western touches such as cowhide, antler chandeliers, saddle blankets, lodgepole chairs, wagon wheels, Navajo rugs, iron light fixtures, wildlife scene fireplace screens, wooden snowshoes,

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“We have a chance to create a legacy that will allow Jackson Hole to thrive—both ecologically and economically—well into the future.” leather throw pillows, horseshoes, Charles Russell prints, and plaid curtains. Still being built is Teton Village.

China’s Teton Village won’t have a ski resort, but it will have a stage for cowboy stunt shows, a gold-panning area for children, and even a church. The project has taken off. Smith told the Jackson Hole News&Guide that Jackson Hole, China, is nearly sold out, and home values have tripled in value since being built.

So what’s distinctive about Jackson Hole, Wyoming? Most valley residents and visitors would answer that question without hesitation: our landscape and our wildlife. “We as a species have an extraordinary track record of taking relatively healthy ecosystems and trashing them in short order,” Schechter says. “If we, as the stewards of Jackson Hole, can recognize that our environmental qualities cannot be replicated, and we can recognize that these qualities give us an unassailable competitive advantage, then we have a chance to create a legacy that will allow Jackson Hole to thrive—both ecologically and economically—well into the future. The critical issue of the twenty-first century will be about how we humans handle this nexus of the environment and economy. If Jackson Hole handles it properly, we can become a model for the rest of the world.” JH

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photo gallery

Flash Forward A photographic look at how our nation’s original national park has withstood the test of time. story and color photographs By Bradly J. Boner black and white photographs by william henry jackson

William Henry Jackson had the ability to find some of the best views of Yellowstone’s iconic landmarks. In 1871, Jackson took a photograph from the vantage that today is Red Rock Point on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The image to the left is a montage of Jackson’s photograph and one taken 140 years later from the same spot.

In the spring of 1866, Civil War veteran and budding photographer William Henry Jackson left New England in search of adventure in the unexplored American West. Five years later in July 1871, Jackson found himself in the wilds of northwestern Wyoming as an official photographer for the U.S. Geological Survey of the Territories.

The survey’s leader, Ferdinand V. Hayden, had recruited Jackson the year before in Omaha, Nebraska, after taking notice of the photographer’s work documenting scenic railway routes for the Union Pacific Railroad. Now Hayden was taking his team of scientists, topographers, and engineers to explore the mysterious frontier that, less than a year later, would become the world’s first national park, Yellowstone.

Before 1871, fur trappers spoke of spouting geysers, great waterfalls, and bubbling mud pots in a rugged, remote area near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Civilized folk dismissed their stories as tall tales spun by mountain men who spent too much time alone in the wilderness.

Hayden was not a doubter, but if such wonders existed, he wanted to bring back proof.

“Up to this time this region was more or less of a mythical wonderland,” Jackson wrote in his first autobiography, The Pioneer Photographer. “[Jim] Bridger, the trapper, scout, and guide was undoubtedly familiar with its wonders, but his stories seemed incredible and were not taken seriously.”

The survey would spend almost six weeks that summer exploring the region, and Jackson’s photographs would be some of the first of Yellowstone’s

signature landmarks. That fall, when survey members returned to Washington, D.C., to file their official reports, Jackson’s images would serve as visual proof of Yellowstone’s wonders.

Captivated by the photographs, along with Thomas Moran’s sketches and paintings and Hayden’s testimony from the expedition, Congress drafted legislation for the Yellowstone region to be “set apart as a public park or pleasuring-ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.”

On March 1, 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed the bill and gave life to a concept no other nation had ever embraced: the idea some places are so special they should be left unspoiled and preserved for future generations to enjoy.

As the nation’s original national park, Yellowstone stands as the first and greatest experiment in American conservation. The contemporary photographs on the following pages, taken in the summer of 2011, 140 years after William Henry Jackson first recorded the views, illustrate just how well that experiment has stood the test of time.

Brad Boner is the chief photographer for the Jackson Hole News&Guide in Jackson, Wyoming. He is currently working on a book of contemporary photographic comparisons to William Henry Jackson’s images from the 1871 Hayden Survey. It is tentatively scheduled to be released by the summer of 2013.

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photo gallery

“Up to this time this region was more or less of a mythical wonderland,” Jackson wrote.

ABOVE: A view looking north from the east side of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, about a mile below the Lower Falls.

RIGHT: Since Jackson photographed this scene in 1871, a large portion of the eastern canyon wall has crumbled away.

The two small trees clinging to the cliffs in the upper right corner are likely the same ones visible in Jackson’s 1871 image.

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FAR ABOVE: The Yellowstone River at its outlet from Yellowstone Lake.

ABOVE: Fishing Bridge now spans the Yellowstone River as it flows north out of the lake. Lush vegetation, helped in part by decades of fire suppression, partially obscures the view.

FAR ABOVE: Jackson took this image of Yellowstone Lake looking south from the Yellowstone River outlet. Twenty miles long, about fifteen miles wide, and at an elevation of 7,732 feet, Yellowstone Lake is the largest lake above 7,000 feet on the continent.

ABOVE: Today, a herd of bison grazes on the same Yellowstone Lake sand bar Jackson shot in 1871. Stevenson Island, one of the seven named islands in the lake, is still visible in the distance. The survey named the island after its leader’s assistant, James Stevenson.

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photo gallery

ABOVE: One-quarter of a mile above the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone, there are rapids and huge detached masses of basalt.

RIGHT: Earthquake Camp, near Steamy Point, on the east side of Yellowstone Lake, was so named for several slight tremors recorded by the survey the night of August 19, 1871.

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ABOVE: The view from the exact spot Jackson photographed his scene is now blocked by trees. Moving just ten feet to the right reveals a similar landscape.

Canyon Bridge, visible in the distance, was built in the late 1890s as part of the park’s first road system.

LEFT: Tourists driving the East Entrance Road on the northwest side of what is today Sedge Bay likely have no idea they are passing through the location of the 1871 Hayden Survey’s Earthquake Camp.

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The Dividends of Thinking

BIG The Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative is transforming the way the world thinks about ecology and commerce

By Todd Wilkinson

Jackson Lake and the Tetons by John Fery is included in the critically acclaimed art exhibit Yellowstone to Yukon: The Journey of Wildlife and Art. SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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The setting sounds remarkably familiar: A valley with chiseled iconic peaks rising above; a national park gateway community central to the conservation identity of a country; an outpost where horses once trailed cowboys into the mountains; a booming modern tourism economy; a vacation-home mecca for some of the world’s social elite; a landscape that draws grizzly bears, wolves, and mountain lions into close quarters with other animals—and people.

Here on a quiet Sunday afternoon in June 2005, Isabelle Dube set off on a jog with friends down a popular hiking trail. Dube, running behind, was wearing headphones, contentedly listening to music on her iPod. Investigators say she likely never saw the grizzly that charged out of the forest and killed her until it was too late. Four winters earlier, just after New Year’s Day, Frances Frost was enjoying a solo cross-country ski on a different trail near the local national park. Investigators say she also had little time to react in fending off the cougar that fatally mauled her.

These events didn’t happen in Jackson Hole but rather, in the outskirts of Banff and Canmore, Alberta. A pair of interconnected towns in the Canadian Rockies, Banff and Canmore possess an uncannily similar pedigree to Jackson Hole. Ecologists and conservationists say Jackson Hole and Banff-Canmore are like biological twins separated at birth.

And now, a grand conservation idea is reuniting them.

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Lanford Monroe’s Cold Trail is also part of the Yellowstone to Yukon exhibit. The exhibit, which was at the National Museum of Wildlife Art last summer, is at Banff’s Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies from June through November.

CONCEIVED TWENTY YEARS ago, the Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative (Y2Y) is a linear corridor tracing the Northern Rockies from Wyoming’s Red Desert to the Canadian Sub-Arctic. Some 2,000 miles long and up to five hundred miles wide, it knits together a mosaic of public and private land including national parks, federal and provincial forests, and reserves. In total, it covers 502,000 square miles, making its southern anchor, the massive greater Yellowstone ecosystem, seem small. The Y2Y corridor contains more large mammals and a greater diversity of large mammals than anywhere else south of Alaska.

“By scale, it is one of the last truly wild and healthy bioregions left on Earth,” says lawyer Harvey Locke, Y2Y’s founder and a prominent conservationist. “We know it’s wild because it still has all of its major wildlife components that were there 10,000 years ago.” He ticks off a few: elk, moose, white-tailed and mule deer, black bears, pronghorn, bison, mountain goats, bighorn sheep (two different kinds), woodland caribou, wolverine, lynx, bald and golden eagles, peregrine falcons, river otters, beaver, hundreds of species of breeding birds, and, of course, lions, wolves, and grizzlies.

Locke says Y2Y is akin to a human body: its wildlife corridors, clean rivers, and airsheds are the arteries and lungs; public lands and open space the muscle mass and vital organs; and private farms and ranchlands the tendons and joints.

Just as with humans, circulation is Y2Y’s lifeblood; if flow is constricted or clogged, the outcome is the equivalent of a heart attack. A patient might survive a few minor coronary episodes, but if nothing changes, the body dies. If wildlife doesn’t have secure, healthy habitat, it too dies.

In 1987, the journal Nature published the findings of a survey U.S.-based ecologist William Newmark conducted as part of his doctoral dissertation.

Newmark’s research showed that national parks, even the bigger ones in the West like Yellowstone and Grand Teton, are not large enough to keep migratory mammals alive. Newmark found that Yosemite and Mount Rainier had lost more than one-fourth of the species originally found there. Smaller parks fared worse, losing as many as 35 to 40 percent of their native species.

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BACK IN 1993, Locke and a host of noted conservation biologists began assembling the conceptual map of Y2Y. The group saw that “pinch points” between habitats had developed and were constricting and/ or eliminating traditional wildlife migration routes. Lynx, wolverine, and woodland caribou were relegated to tiny pocket populations and in danger of localized extinction. The future of grizzlies was still uncertain. Wolves were already extinct in most of the Lower 48.

Locke also drew inspiration from two figures that many, at first, might consider unlikely: artists Charles M. Russell and Carl Rungius. A German immigrant, Rungius came West at the end of the nineteenth century. He lived on a ranch at the foot of the Wind River Range in Sublette County, Wyoming, and made numerous painting excursions north to Jackson Hole. Later, he moved to Banff, where he gained renown as a painter of animals in the Canadian Rockies.

“If you look at Rungius’ portfolio, his choice of subject matter reads like a field guide for Y2Y,” Locke says. “Equally as important, his backdrops provide us with an opportunity for visual

comparison between then and now.”

Locke notes the National Museum of Wildlife Art in Jackson holds the largest collection of major Rungius oil paintings in the United States and, this summer (2012), is showcasing a selection of Rungius’ drawings. “Russell, too, was

the enduring value of conserving wildlife and wild places, and a Y2Y supporter. “I remember the first presentation Harvey [Locke] gave when I was invited to speak in Banff, and he featured a satellite photograph from space. The Y2Y [corridor] at night was a black space surrounded by a sea of bright lights. It made sense. Y2Y isn’t being crammed down anyone’s throat. It’s a one-hundred-year vision, and slowly, communities are waking up to its value.”

Duerr sees Y2Y evolving over time. It won’t be quick fixes that ensure corridors remain viable, but citizens becoming more aware and educated about what it takes to keep large landscapes healthy and working with elected officials on regulations that accommodate growth, but not at the expense of natural processes.

“Y2Y isn’t being crammed down anyone’s throat. It’s a onehundred-year vision, and slowly, communities are waking up to its value.”

THE UPSHOT OF the hair-raising tales mentioned at the outset of our story is this: Far from igniting a paroxysm of fear and antipredator sentiment, the unfortunate deaths in Banff-Canmore had the opposite effect. Citizens and policy makers in those communities redoubled their efforts to devise better ways of

drawn to wildness on both sides of the border,” Locke says.

“What captured my attention about Y2Y?” asks Steve Duerr, former director of the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, leader of The Murie Center, a Moose-based nonprofit that engages people to understand and commit to

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The bear sow known locally as Grizzly 399 romps with her cubs in Grand Teton National Park. Grizzly bears have been expanding their territory in recent years as their population increases in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

Henry H. Holdsworth

achieving human-wildlife coexistence.

Today, with grizzlies, lobos, and cougars roaming Jackson’s back doorstep in greater numbers, Jim Pissot, a CanadianAmerican conservationist who formerly oversaw Y2Y, says there’s a lot that each community—and country—can learn from one another in their shared custodial stewardship of the Y2Y corridor.

People in Banff-Canmore have been willing to accept some restrictions on their lives in order to have wildlife: residents are under strict orders with how they manage trash, there’s a ban on outdoor bird feeders, and a push for all hikers to carry bear spray. At the same time, Jackson Hole is a model to BanffCanmore for using nature tourism as a sustainable engine for commerce. And Canadian conservationists envy the U.S.’s stronger federal laws protecting species and habitat on federal land and the greater public scrutiny of major natural

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resource extraction projects. Recently, Parks Canada, the government agency responsible for managing the country’s national parks, reserves, and historic sites, announced that it was reintroducing plains bison to Banff National Park.

This is the result of efforts by Y2Y and its allies and has been well received across Canada. Locke says part of the impetus came from the presence of bison in Jackson Hole.

“Banff-Canmore may be more progressive in its attitude toward conflict resolution than any other outdoor-oriented community in North America,” Pissot says. “Part of it is that these towns have a long, unbroken history of living side by side with large carnivores. Another less auspicious fact is that they don’t have a choice. Without vigilance, these animals would be gone.” The Canadian communities have decided this isn’t an option.

Path of the Pronghorn

The Grand Teton National Park pronghorn herd of about four hundred animals has the longest migration route of any mammal in the Lower 48 states. Round-trip, the trek between their summer home in Grand Teton and their winter grazing grounds near Pinedale, Wyoming, is about 150 miles.

JOE RIIS

Ecologist Joel Berger, who lived in Jackson Hole before accepting a position as professor of ecology at the University of Montana, is the godfather of a unique sub-element of Y2Y. Path of the Pronghorn is a public-private initiative that has rallied together public land managers and private property owners to safeguard the ancient migratory passageway of Grand Teton antelope.

The Grand Teton pronghorn migration, an important thread in Y2Y, is rivaled in length on this continent only by the seasonal movement of caribou in the Arctic tundra of Alaska and Canada.

The antelope, the fastest land animals in North America, walk about seventy-five miles (each way) between their summer habitat in Grand Teton National Park and their winter range south of Pinedale. Citizens leaned on land managers, elected officials, and private landowners to support policies keeping development from further impinging on the portion of the corridor used by the park’s pronghorn. The end results included conservation easements and permanent protection of 5,000 acres of private land, including eight miles of Green River tributary footage, and big game habitat enhancement on more than 85,000 acres of public land. “Path of the Pronghorn energized people because it showed what can be done when citizens care,” Berger says.

After Banff-Canmore, Pissot says he would rank Jackson Hole second for being mindful about its environment.

The issue of human-wildlife coexistence is especially topical in Jackson Hole as elected officials grapple with the details of a revised land-use management plan for Teton County and the town of Jackson. It’s not a new issue, though: One hundred years ago, the federal government created the National Elk Refuge because settlement destroyed winter habitat crucial to wapitis’ survival. Today, ecologists are worried about the impacts of sprawl on the survival of pronghorn antelope in Grand Teton National Park. The pronghorn rely upon an ancient migration route from this valley to winter range close to

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one hundred miles south (see Path of the Pronghorn sidebar). Traffic is taking its toll on moose (and other species). Last winter, on a single mile-long stretch of Teton Village Road, cars killed six moose.

There’s one more visceral reality on everyone’s mind: Cougars, wolves, and grizzlies are now more abundant than at any time in memory. (The latter two are protected under the federal Endangered Species Act.) In recent years, all three of

“Rare things hold tremendous value in a global world, and Y2Y demonstrates time and again that if you protect special places, people will come to experience them.”

Jodi Cook these species have wandered into Jackson interior designer neighborhoods, and have subsequently been removed. In 2011, two hikers werejodi@ashleycampbell.com mobile 970.401.4040 killed in different encounters with grizzlies in Yellowstone. The irony is that these fearsome animals don’t repel tourists. “Rare things hold tremendous value in a global world, and Y2Y demonstrates time and again that if you protect special places, people will come to experience them,” Duerr says.

There are vibrant illustrations of this.

Several years during the last half decade in Grand Teton National Park, a grizzly bear mother and her grown daughter have each borne several cubs and then spent significant time close to park roads.

David Sumrak director of marketing As word of their visual access spread, they became an Internet sensation. Blogs david@ashleycampbell.com followed them. Facebook pages were crefax 303.355.5274 ated for the moms. They were also a sensation in person. “Our Wildlife Brigade staff had their hands full and then some interior design managing people and cars at bear jams,” wrote GTNP spokesperson Jackie Skaggs space planning in an email. Crowds of people came to renovations Wyoming because seeing these bruins was—and is—considered “the opporturemodels nity of a lifetime.”

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“AT FIRST BLUSH, Y2Y is a conservation initiative, but from the perspective of our tourist economy, I view it as an opportunity,” says Tim O’Donoghue, Duerr’s successor at the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, which is a Y2Y supporter. “[The chamber is] very much a triple bottom line organization.

Sustainability is built on a three-legged stool: economics, environment, and human-social capital.”

A recent economic study showed that in 2010 alone, Grand Teton National Park contributed $424 million

to the greater Jackson economy and Yellowstone another $334 million.

Nearly one of every three of the 22,350 jobs in all of Teton County has a direct tourism component. Factor in the services these visitors avail themselves of—and the money they spend elsewhere in the state as they travel to these parks—and the economic engine that runs on the mystique of wildness generates more gross commerce than the annual net worth of commodity agricultural products statewide.

The chamber, O’Donoghue says, is working on the idea of a novel collaboration with the National Geographic Society. The goal is to have a Society geotourism program highlighting Y2Y and distinctive towns in the corridor.

“So far, the Society is really interested in it,” O’Donoghue says. “We’ll see how it develops.” It would not only give smaller towns in the corridor greater visibility, but also an added shot of commerce. “Responsible tourism is additive to community values and the value of the land, not destructive to them,” O’Donoghue says.

Today, Y2Y boasts relationships with more than 120 different government, tribal, business, conservation, hunting/ fishing, and outdoor recreation entities.

President Obama has mentioned Y2Y when talking about his America’s Great

BRADLY J. BONER

1999, when a mother cougar denned and gave birth to kittens in a cave close to a road on the National Elk Refuge, more than 15,000 visitors—professionals as well as the merely curious— showed up with cameras.

Jackson Lake, the Teton Range, and the rest of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem sit near the southern end of the Yellowstone to Yukon corridor.

Outdoors Initiative and the economic value of nature. Y2Y and Path of the Pronghorn have gained attention around the world.

“Like Yellowstone once was, we’re the new vanguard,” Locke says. “It isn’t just a theory. We’re actually implementing strategies for protecting connectivity.” Berger adds, “Y2Y brings to the world all sorts of great visions about big landscapes and what’s necessary to keep things working. No matter where I go, Y2Y is the holy grail for a new generation of thinking by conservation biologists.” JH

Canada has been building a series of wildlife overpasses to afford peripatetic species safe passage across four-lane roads and railroad tracks.

They work. Road kills have decreased in the areas around the structures. Wyoming has taken notice.

As the result of a pronghorn monitoring study by the Wildlife Conservation Society, the Wyoming Department of Transportation is spending $9.7 million to install a total of eight overpasses and underpasses. These are along U.S. Highway 191 at a Path of the Pronghorn bottleneck north of Pinedale. Loss of habitat has forced the pronghorn to move through a narrower funnel of habitat, leaving them more vulnerable to being struck by cars. There aren’t official statistics, but ecologist Joel Berger says that over the years, “hundreds” of pronghorn have died here. The new structures will go a long way in preventing further collisions with motorists.

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BRADLY J. BONER

How’d the Pronghorn Cross the Road?

A wildlife overpass under construction on Highway 191 near Pinedale, Wyoming. Following the example of similar overpasses in Canada’s Highway 1, the sides and top of the structure will be filled in, giving pronghorn and other wildlife safe passage over the busy highway during their fall and spring migrations.

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COURTESY SAUNDERS FAMILY

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LEFT: People of all backgrounds, young and old, cowboys and hippies, become dance partners when the Stagecoach Band takes the stage.

Whiskey River, Take My Mind From rodeo cowboys to disco dancers, the Stagecoach Bar has provided a good time for generations.

by JIM STANFORD

SEVENTY YEARS OF history at the Stagecoach Bar in Wilson can be distilled into eleven letters: IWTUIUWBMAD. Etched in wood, the cryptic sign has hung over the bar at the roadside watering hole since rodeo cowboys rode bucking broncs out back. Ranch dudes, passing motorists, hippies, hipsters, musicians, skiers, rednecks, and real estate moguls have been confounded by its meaning, while smirking bartenders pop open another beer and pour whiskey over ice.

Like the bar itself, the sign is crudely made yet beautiful in its simplicity. The carved letters form a riddle best solved over a game of pool. I could tell you what it means, but you’d probably have to buy me a drink first.

For that’s been the story of the Stagecoach since Billy Thompson built the place at the base of Teton Pass, back when Franklin Roosevelt was president, John Wayne had just filmed Wyoming Outlaw, and 82

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

ABOVE: Billy Saunders rides Pecos Bess during a rodeo behind the Stagecoach Bar in the early 1950s.

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Mike Taylor and Frank Astrin play bumper pool at the ’Coach in the mid-1950s.

Many of the photographs pictured here are still hanging in the bar today.

Local filmmaker Jennifer Tennican has produced a documentary about the history of the Stagecoach Bar.

’Coach film premieres Filmmaker Jennifer Tennican first visited the Stagecoach Bar on a Sunday night, with Bill Briggs and the band playing to a packed dance floor. Whether in cowboy hats and boots or Hawaiian shirts and sandals, dancers twirled to country, bluegrass, and rock. “I was struck by the feeling of community,” she says.

In conjunction with the Jackson Hole Historical Society, Tennican has made a one-hour documentary about the cherished Wilson watering hole. She uses the bar as a prism to view seventy years of Wyoming history. Among the themes the film explores are how community character has changed, how outsiders became insiders, and how the bar helped bridge the gap between the wealthy and working class.

A spin-off comedy she made from the project, spoofing the time Bob Dylan once joined the Stagecoach Band at a private ranch party, won the 2011 Wyoming Short Film Contest and netted $25,000 for the making of the film. A photo hanging in the bar of Dylan and Briggs has spawned all sorts of legends.

The Stagecoach Bar: An American Crossroads screens at the Center for the Arts on June 27. A second showing is planned for late August or early September at Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village. Check thestagecoachbarfilm.com or jhcenterforthearts.org for details.

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instead of tree huggers, Wilson had a sawmill. Over three generations, the ’Coach has brought together people of all stripes, while enough whiskey has flowed through the bar to fill Fish Creek. Patrons have come on horses and tractors and danced atop the bar in jubilation.

That the one-story wooden building is still standing is remarkable, let alone its continuing endearment to a community that, unlike the bar, has changed much over the years.

“Whether you are a ranch hand, tourist, or movie star, it’s just a great, great place,” Cle Clark, who owned the bar from 1962 to ’73, told the Jackson Hole News in 1984. Wally Johnson, who worked there

“On a Sunday you can have twentyand thirty-somethings on the deck in downhill bike gear, shooting pool, and joining in on the dance floor with folks ranging from their forties to their eighties. Everyone has something to offer, and it’s amazing what you discover over a beer or taking a twirl around the dance floor.”

— Jennifer Tennican, filmmaker from 1959 to ’64, added in the same retrospective, “If a stranger walked in, everybody would shake his hand and buy him a drink.”

The bar’s role as a melting pot drew the attention of filmmaker Jennifer Tennican, who with the Jackson Hole Historical Society has made a documentary, The Stagecoach Bar: An American Crossroads, due out this summer (see sidebar). The tradition lives on today, whether with the older crowd at Sunday night “church,” two-stepping to the country music of the Stagecoach Band, or the latest hatch of youngsters bumping and grinding at Thursday’s Disco Night.

“That’s what I love about this place,” says Wayne Johnson, Wally’s son, who manages the bar and has worked there for ten

years. “It’s a mystery. You can have a die-hard biker, a rich, snotty lady, a hippie, a cowboy, and by the end of the night they’re the best of friends, buying each other drinks. Somehow for seventy years, this building has repeated it.”

THE STAGECOACH wasn’t a riproaring party at its inception. Lee Lundy first acquired the liquor license from the state for $150 around 1940. He operated the bar across the street in the log cabin that later became Blake’s Saw Shop. During World War II, when liquor was rationed, Lundy moved to California to work in a factory. He entrusted the bar to Thompson, who parked a Yellowstone stagecoach outside, giving the place its name.

A few years later, Thompson, known as “Hamburger Billy,” moved the bar to its current location on the north side of the road, where he operated a cafe and ice cream stand. The site had been the second home of Jackson forefather Mike Yokel, but it burned in a fire. Thompson and his wife, Blanche, bought the twoacre property in 1940. According to the Teton County Historic Preservation Board, the Stagecoach was built in 1942.

By 1944, Thompson sold the place, including Lundy’s liquor license, to Walt Callahan for $6,000.

A diminutive man who had spent time in New York, Maryland, and San Diego riding and training thoroughbreds, Callahan started the Wilson rodeo behind the bar, and business took off. He bought bucking horses from Idaho Falls, and cowboys came from all over to ride. Dude ranches would bring their guests to watch the action every Saturday night, while Callahan served drinks from a window.

Realtor Rob Cheek was about fifteen years old in 1953 when he bought his first drink at the rodeo, a “ditch,” house bourbon and water. He and his brother, then working at the Circle H Ranch in Moose, tried to act like cowboys, standing around the chutes. The dude ranchers, too, tried to play the part. “Most of them had to have two or three drinks to get the courage to get up on a bucking horse,” Cheek says. He recalls walking up to the bar window, at five-foot-five, trying to look older and putting down his fifty cents.

Gamblers from the Wort Hotel also were part of the clientele. On some of the more uproarious nights, Wally

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JONATHAN ADAMS TED WOOD

Bill Briggs, right, and Phil Round string things along during one of the Stagecoach Band’s performances in 1998. Briggs is one of the forty-three-year-old band’s founding members, while Round has taken the stage with the group off and on since 1980.

The Stagecoach Band moved its show outdoors to deliver its 1,000th consecutive Sunday performance in April 1988.

Johnson and others rode their horses into the bar and even shot pool from the steeds, posing for photos for tourists. The rodeo lasted about twenty years, until Clark bought the bar from Callahan. A veteran of the advertising business from Detroit, Clark sold the stock to Billy Saunders, manager of Fish Creek Ranch, who moved the rodeo to Jackson.

As was customary in those days, the ’Coach used to hold an open house around Christmas with free drinks for all. Residents would get together for potluck dinners, and the Johnson family (no relation to Wally) from Red Top Meadows would play music and sing. The piano would be brought over from the Wilson schoolhouse, and the kids would join their mother, Clarice, on guitars, fiddle, accordions and harmonica. A musical tradition was born.

In the late 1960s, bars in Jackson Hole developed a rough-andtumble reputation, as hippies moved in and caused friction with the old-timers. The ’Coach was no exception. Sometimes fights started as a diversion, a contest of toughness to break the monotony of cabin fever. During the tenure of Jay Hess, a local who bought the bar from Clark in 1973 and ran it until ’84, the fisticuffs eventually gave way to dancing. Music would bridge the cultural divide and soothe the atmosphere.

On a Sunday evening in February 1969, the picking and strumming began as a recipe to stave off boredom when Ron Scott, who worked for the Forest Service, organized an impromptu gig. Two weeks later, Bill Briggs, the Snow King Ski School director, joined with his banjo, followed soon after by John Sidle on guitar. The Stagecoach Band was born. “At first it was just a wild thing to do,” says Briggs, who in 1971 became the first person to ski the Grand Teton. “It was not something I expected would last.”

TED WOOD

“It can be a bizarre mix. Who would have expected that at the foot of Teton Pass, there’s a little juke joint where disco music is played?”

The bar was often used for more than just elbow resting during raucous Stagecoach Band performances.

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The band has performed every Sunday night since—excluding Christmas Day—for forty-three years, a string of 2,250 performances as of this Memorial Day weekend. Briggs, at eighty years old, remains the godfather of the group, which has seen dozens of players rotate through the lineup. At the height of the band’s popularity, the crowd would spill out into the parking lot and listen to the music through the open windows. George Green, a regular, got up on the bar and danced with young ladies, gaining enough recognition to have his own bumper sticker and be featured on the TV show Real People.

Before he passed in the late 1980s, he danced atop the bar with his great-granddaughter Ilene.

Sunday night patrons no longer get as rowdy. “If we’ve survived into our sixties, it’s perhaps because we don’t drink like we used to,” says Sidle, who played in the band for sixteen years. “We’ve all seen a lot of hard-drinking friends who just checked out early.” Christine Langdon, who has strummed the bass since 1985, says the shuffle of boots and sandals keeps her coming back. “I still love the clientele we get out there,” she says. “As an older musician, it’s probably the only bar I still feel comfortable in.”

Starting in the early 1990s, the DJ-powered Disco Night on Thursday took over as the bar’s biggest party, as revelers donned

wigs, sequins, and leather and boogied to the sounds of the ’70s. A younger crowd, including twenty-somethings whose parents met at the ’Coach, adopted the place as their own. “That’s what keeps the bar open,” says Wayne Johnson. “Every summer and winter season, there’s a brand-new group of kids. It regenerates itself every year.”

DJ Andre Castagnoli, who started as a doorman, has spun tunes like “Stayin’ Alive” and “Brick House” for the better part of the last fifteen years.

He has watched the same sort of integration that played out with cowboys and hippies, only this time the dance music has drawn the Latino community. Around the holidays, when tourists are in town and natives are back visiting family, “It really can be a bizarre mix,” he says. “Who would have expected that at the foot of Teton Pass, there’s a little juke joint where disco music is played?”

As the bar has changed hands between various partnerships since the 1980s, the ’Coach has expanded, adding space for the band and DJs to play on the west side and more room for the grill to the east. The fireplace and chimney were removed. Bike racks have replaced the hitching rail. In 2000, the bar itself was shifted east, creating more room on the dance floor. The notoriously low ceiling was raised.

Smoking, which had stained the white wall tiles yellow, was banned. Old wood paneling, seared with ranch brands, now is the surface of the bar. The exterior, originally white, has been red for many years. Photos of cowboys on bucking broncs continue to hang on the walls.

Despite the changes, the look and feel of the ’Coach have remained oddly the same. While actor Harrison Ford, NFL star Peyton Manning, and members of the rock band Phish are among the celebrities to have visited, Walt Callahan or Cle Clark still might feel at home. “The place has barely changed since the first time I set foot in it,” says Cheek, who occasionally comes to dance on Sundays.

“It feels like a home or a church, you might say. You always feel comfortable.”

As the sign over the bar suggests, I could go on and on with stories of some of the hijinks that have occurred within those walls. But you’d probably have to buy me another drink. JH

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JH Living

outdoors Jackson gunsmith Vic Talmo has been operating his Teton Arms Company since 1982.

head in semi-disbelief. What exactly does this veteran Jackson gunsmith do?

A Shooter’s Best Friend Vic Talmo gives guns the TLC they need, and is happy to give you an earful if you can find his tiny shop.

BY PAUL BRUUN PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

“Guns are making money. They’re one of the few things Americans can make and sell.” —Vic Talmo, Jackson gunsmith, toolmaker, and outdoorsman Locating Vic Talmo isn’t easy. Still, to have a broken sight fixed, schedule an overhaul, replace a lost screw, or get advice about why Old Betsy’s accuracy evaporated during elk season, most dedicated Jackson firearm owners eventually find their way to his door. Word of mouth resulting from his reputation in shooting circles points the needy to Talmo’s diminutive Teton Arms quarters behind Chinatown—way, way back in Grand Teton Plaza.

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Talmo, sixty-three, has a pile of firearms—many of which have seen better days—that await new parts and TLC. And people, with the same determination as they haul sick kids to local clinics, continue bringing him more. He’s like a firearms doctor.

Right before Christmas, I squeeze myself into the shop. Vic, a cheerful bear of a guy who has spent much of his life outdoors, gestures toward the astonishing stack of shooting treasures with which he’s been entrusted. “All these came in since hunting season ended,” he says. “I tell ’em, ‘Yours is going on the bottom of the list.’ They want the work done anyway,” he muses, shaking his

His reign is a combination of Dr. Phil meets Dr. Oz, but in a machineryrich atmosphere perfumed by gun oil and pungent gunpowder cleaning solvents. It’s important to understand that Talmo’s natural mechanical talent, which embraces learned skills that aren’t being developed these days due to the emergence of Computer-Aided Design (CAD), pales in comparison to his love of human interaction.

Jobs accomplished on Talmo’s workbenches, which are crowded with lathes, drills, grinders, and dozens of hand tools, include installing muzzle brakes on heavy caliber rifles to lessen recoil, gun cleaning, adjusting trigger mechanisms, adding more accurate custom barrels to rifles, and improving scope and other sight mounts.

In a nanosecond an observer recognizes that everything Talmo practices is what truly fuels his engine, whether it’s selling suitable ammunition and firearms, gunsmithing, solving technical machining problems, or educating the usual cast of characters that his trade attracts. From command central—at attention behind a short counter—Talmo exclaims, “It’s the people that make this job interesting. Some of the repair work I chase out the door. Some I welcome with open arms. People I know can sit here all day and visit while I take in a couple of guns to fix. Then they go home—happy and fulfilled. Now they want me to buy a big coffee pot … then I’ll never get rid of ’em!”

Ironically, Vic never started out to be a gunsmith, nor did he work on his own guns growing up and as a young man in Delaware. He hung out in his family’s tavern-beer garden. “My grandparents came over on the boat and Americanized their Italian last name Talamo to Talmo,”

he says. “Articles were written about my mother’s red sauce,” he enthuses. He still cooks Italian and admits to his garlic, olive oil, anchovy and chopped-clam aioli over angel hair pasta being “pretty darn good.”

Outside of the tavern, older family members facilitated Vic’s early hunting for squirrels, pheasants, ducks, and geese and fishing for striped bass. “Back East, I took my first Marlin .22 automatic, Remington 870 Wingmaster 12 gauge, and other shotguns to a gunsmith at Shooters Supply in New Castle. That guy used a little brass hammer and tapped my sight back in place. I made [a hammer] just like it. It works great,” he says proudly, showing it to me for inspection.

Today, Vic is “that guy” with the magic hammer and vast firearms experience. Instead of college, he sought intensive trade school regimes in his hometown of Wilmington. He had a knack for all things mechanical and took extra night school courses. After several years of apprenticeship, he landed a coveted job as a machinist and tool model

maker with an industrial development company. Happily, he worked on prototype equipment, including the first space suit made from aluminum and fabricated tooling, for such manufacturing gi-

department for the fledgling Butler Creek Corporation that pioneered flip-open plastic scope lens covers. Rosemount Ski Boot inventor Frank Werner also utilized Talmo’s toolmaking skills at Origin

ants as Havoc, Hercules, and DuPont.

Although gone from Delaware for nearly forty years, Talmo’s recurring credo emphasizes: “They still make things in Wilmington … there’s quite a bit of industry back there.”

Incorporated. Origin’s South Park product development office was where he built machinery for working on Origin’s TechLine Golf Putter and also equipment for the first epoxy cure windshield repair Novus system.

During the seventies, a few men in local sporting goods stores tinkered at changing recoil pads, mounting scopes, and bore-sighting rifles. That’s when Jackson police officer Stan Bruhn sought Vic’s machining skills to modify a

The ability to make things helped Vic when he arrived in Jackson during the summer of 1974 “with no job, a tool box, and a trunk full of clothes and skis.” He found work running the manufacturing

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favorite single-shot Ruger No. 1 rifle. “He couldn’t find anyone else around to do it,” Talmo says. “After that, Stan kept giving me a lot of little rifle and handgun jobs, and I started learning from books.

I’d look at parts and could make them the same way a toolmaker would.”

“Pretty soon other cops began bringing their stuff in for work,” Vic remembers. In 1982, he created Teton Arms Company. “I needed a license to take in a gun just to work on a recoil pad, refit a

sports are flourishing. According to Treasury Department data, in 2008, federal excise tax collections on sporting firearms and ammunition manufactured in the U.S. were up 13.9 percent ($345.2 million to $303.2 million in 2007) over the previous year. The concerns were that the Obama administration would tighten gun purchase and ownership requirements and renew restrictions on high-capacity semi-automatic weapons. Such considerations continue to stimulate gun sales.

strengthened and trimmed sturdy Remington Model 700 bolt actions before matching them to top-grade Douglas barrels. Each slender Jenny Craig-like masterpiece was surrounded with the latest hand-laid synthetic fiberglass stocks that were just becoming popular.

Vic’s customers found him via ads in GUNS Magazine, mailing fliers, and sports shows. “The UPS guy brought me work,” he’s fond of saying. Talmo’s

Despite decades of clutter, Talmo says he knows where to find all the tools necessary for gunsmithing work.

stock … anything involving a firearm.

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms [now the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives] requires [gunsmiths have] a Federal Firearms License. The government demands to know when guns come in and go out. They don’t care anything about what you know or your mechanical ability,” he scoffs.

A forlorn tone creeps into Vic’s words as he continues, “Gunsmithing has changed a lot since those old 1930s and ’40s books were written. They showed how to ‘sporterize’ military Mausers and Springfields [modernize military weapons for hunting], but you can hardly afford to do that anymore. The price per hour for work is too much. Even the old .22s that come in now … they’ve got sentimental value. But they’re too hard to keep running, and parts are too hard to find.”

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“Guns are making money. They’re one of the few things Americans can make and sell,” Vic reflects as he assists customers seeking repairs and Christmas gifts.

Ruefully, he recalls the mid-eighties.

Business was really slow. The plastic lens cover manufacturer where he modernized and operated the injection-molding equipment had moved to Montana. He resorted to cooking breakfasts at the Heidelberg in Wilson, then a remodeled B&B on Teton Pass. Talmo also pursued gunsmith work out of Spike Camp Sports, which itself closed not quite a decade ago: “If you wanted to stay here, you found work to survive. Jackson is such a great place, I didn’t want to live anywhere else.” While he loves hunting and traipsing around the woods, Talmo is also an ardent fisherman, camper, and hiker. His fishing resume almost rivals his firearm experience.

Relying on his machining skills, Talmo ventured into building lightweight mountain hunting rifles. He

custom work continues today with precision competition tuning (accurizing) of .45 Colt automatics and Smith & Wesson revolvers for competition and law enforcement.

Those needing firearm advice regularly seek Vic. His robust opinions come from reading, research, and the personal experience of operating on both good and bad guns until they work better than new. Some might be offended at his honest appraisal of their favorite weapon or their ammunition choices. He embraces the efficiency of copper bullets, welcomes the opportunity to work on the burgeoning AR-15-style combat rifles— although it means buying more tools— and dislikes the confusion manufacturers are creating by adding new calibers in order to sell more guns.

An afternoon spent listening to Vic Talmo is an investment. His generous nature finds him gifting guns to his nephews, saving an antique K&E slide rule and Lufkin catalog for a nephew in engineering school, and eagerly hosting family on outdoorsy Jackson visits. Local friends receive similar treatment.

Today, Talmo’s many skills don’t attract the attention they deserve. “Now nobody’s heard of a machinist or a toolmaker. I could still get a job makin’ stuff, but the computer has pretty much taken over building. But a real gunsmith still makes things fit,” Vic muses.

Jackson shooters are fortunate to have “a real gunsmith” right down the street. JH

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JH Living

as the hole deepens

True or Tall Tale?

BY TIM SANDLIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY BIRGITTA SIF

Writers and sociologists love to divide humanity into mutually exclusive groups. For example, those who look forward to slurping raw oysters and those who would rather snort barbwire. Those who like playing in snow and those whose faith system includes hibernation.

Those who think American Idol is choice, quality entertainment and the rest of the civilized world.

In Jackson Hole, I have observed a sharp division between locals who correct tourists spreading misinformation and locals who, when confronted by an out-oftowner, lie.

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I mentioned this to my friend, Heather Heidi Walsowski-Smith, at our weekly coffee break at Pearl Street Bagels. Heather Heidi comes to the coffee shop directly from a Zumba class at the Center for the Arts, so she feels compelled to replace lost calories. She calls it a yin-yang balance thing. Sweat must be countered with sugar, fat, and caffeine. She ordered a caramel triple-shot latte with whipped cream and a poppy seed bagel swathed in mixed-berry cream cheese.

I talked while she uploaded. “My mother couldn’t stand it when tourists screwed up their nature lore. The

first time I saw her jump into a conversation, I was ten years old and embarrassed by everything odd my parents did or said. We were at Old Faithful, standing next to a gentleman in a sweater vest from London or Australia or someplace where they spell parlour with a u, and this guy was telling his family—in English—that those furry rodents popping out from under the boardwalk were beavers.

“Mom jumped in. ‘They’re marmots.’

“The Commonwealth man said, ‘Pardon?’

“Mom said, ‘Some people call them rock chucks, but in Wyoming we say marmot.’ Mom wasn’t even from Wyoming. She was raised in Oklahoma where it’s perfectly normal to insert yourself into overheard conversations.”

Heather Heidi spoke through purple glop. “I doubt if that’s kosher in London.”

“The prig man didn’t thank mom for making him look stupid in front of his family. Mom didn’t care. She’d hear Elf Refuge or some yahoo planning to ride the Gros Ventre Slide, and she’d wade in with updated truth. She wouldn’t even drop it when a stranger mispronounced Gros Ventre.”

“My husband goes spastic when people say TEE-tons instead of tea-TAHNS. You’d think they insulted Poland.”

She chugged 700 milligrams of caffeine in a single gulp.

“And don’t even get me started on Dubois. I’d rather hear fingernails on a chalkboard than some coastal snob acting like Dubois is a French word.”

I sipped green tea. I’ve been chasing my coffee with green tea ever since I heard an expert on The Ellen DeGeneres Show who said if I drink green tea I’ll live forever.

“Involvement with strangers is a Southern habit,” I said. “Not Western. You sit next to a weeping woman on an airplane, a Southerner will offer her a Kleenex and call her Honey. A Wyoming native, on the other hand, won’t say a word. He’ll figure if the woman wants a Kleenex, she’ll ask for it, and if she does ask for a Kleenex, this theoretical Wyoming native will turn the airplane inside out to get her one.”

“What about New Yorkers?”

“A New Yorker will sneak into First Class.”

I drank tea while H.H. went to the counter to put a quarter in the chocolate-covered coffee beans machine. She came back, popping a handful into her mouth. Frankly, I’m not certain why she bothers with Zumba.

“My dad was the opposite of your mom,” Heather Heidi said. “If a tourist called a marmot a weasel he’d tell them, no, those are baby bears. Used to drive me insane when I was a teenager.”

“We had a naturalist at Jenny Lake who would tell tourists moose are mature elk and an antelope can be

trained to play the xylophone. He said that’s what the song means by Deer and the antelope play. Tourists saw the green uniform and the Rings of Saturn ranger hat, and they believed him. A naturalist wouldn’t lie.

“He’s the one who showed me Jackson Hole in an outhouse before he knew I lived here. He offered to take my photograph next to it.”

“I doubt if the Park Service would allow rangers to lie today,” Heather Heidi said. “Modern times have gone anal.”

“Locals the world over lie to outsiders,” I said. “It makes them feel superior to prove the rubes don’t know basic stuff.”

“My grandfather bought the Brooklyn Bridge from a cab driver. It’s the family shame.”

“That’s my point. If the Brooklyn cab driver had been here, your grandfather would have told him drinking horse urine will protect you from rattlesnakes. Everyone is clueless somewhere.

“My wife’s from Hawaii. Her friends would tell mainland cool kids that if you lick a gecko, you’ll go on a psychedelic trip and meet Pele. Then they’d sit back and laugh at the Ivy Leaguers licking lizards.”

“Heck,” Heather Heidi said. “If Tralfamadorians came to Earth, we’d laugh at them for taking dolphins as the intelligent species and talking to them instead of us.”

“You remember that story I wrote about Day Care Air,” I said. “The airline for children of divorced parents with split custody. No seats. Licensed pre-school teachers for flight attendants.”

“It went viral,” Heather Heidi said. “You gave my phone number as the reservation clerk, and I had to handle the onslaught of calls.”

“The thing is, I didn’t dream anyone would buy it. I make up these stories about snow snakes or nuns living in secret caves on Mount Moran and then perfectly nice people believe me, and if I tell them it’s a joke they get huffy, so I keep my mouth shut, but I feel like a boy squishing June bugs.”

“Nuns on Mount Moran?”

“That one may be true. I’m not sure.

The Arapaho legend has it that if Delta ever brings a flight in on time and with every passenger’s luggage, nine nuns will dance down the mountain singing the Shondells’ version of ‘Crimson and Clover’ while doing cartwheels through the buttercups.”

Heather Heidi gave me one of her special looks of skepticism. “And you think this might be true, but you’re not sure?”

“It’s never been tested,” I said. “Delta has never held up its end of the legend.” JH SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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getting out

I SUFFER FROM a compulsive map-reading disorder. To ease the affliction, I’ve covered my office walls in topographic maps, including my favorite, a map of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. If I’m not careful, hours, even days, slip by while I ponder topographic features and dream of exploration and adventure.

Ten years ago, packrafts changed how I view these maps. Before then, the blue lines—rivers and creeks—were obstacles. Barriers. Things to avoid.

Today, with a packraft on my back, these blue lines are passageways and thoroughfares. Things I seek.

The bigger, longer, and more remote the blue line the better. Packrafts make explorers amphibious.

Durable and whitewater-worthy, packrafts weigh less than ten pounds and are easily carried in a

JH

Packrafting A whitewater-worthy boat on your back? Sure!

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY FORREST McCARTHY

Thomas Turiano uses a packraft to make the first descent of the headwaters of the Grey Bull River in the Absaroka Mountains.

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LEFT: Amy McCarthy hikes Fourth of July Ridge in Idaho’s Caribou Range carrying a packraft in her backpack.

BELOW: Packrafts work just as well on calm water like the South Fork of the Snake River in Idaho as they do in rapids.

backpack. (One model weighs just over three pounds.) Many of the first packrafts were military surplus. They were small, rubber life rafts. Today’s packrafts are constructed from lighter and more durable materials like high-quality, urethane-coated nylon and come in different designs—flat bow, upturned bow, more room for gear, less room for gear.

You use a kayak paddle and, also like in kayaking, are sitting while paddling.

Packrafts have room for one person and all the backcountry equipment needed for multiday adventures. Like whitewater and sea kayaks, they can be fitted with 100

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

spray decks to minimize the amount of water that enters the boat.

SEVERAL COMPANIES outside of the military make commercial packrafts now. Alpacka Raft is unmatched for quality construction and innovative design. And the brains and talent behind the company, Sheri Tingey, is a former Jackson Hole resident. Ten years ago, soon after Tingey built her first packrafts in Alaska, a few found their way south and into the backpacks and hearts of several adventuresome Jackson Hole locals.

In Alaska, big blue lines and the rivers they illustrate are the primary thoroughfares through large expanses of wilderness. Modern explorers immediately saw the benefit of packrafts in navigating and exploring these wild areas. Like Alaska, Wyoming is blessed with rivers and large, roadless areas. Our southern Absaroka Mountains, most of which are protected as part of Yellowstone National Park and the Teton and Washakie wilderness areas, contain some of the most remote and wildest country left in the contiguous United States. There are few trails. There are numerous untamed rivers and creeks

MORE THAN JUST A GREENHOUSE

Packrafts allow explorers to traverse remote wilderness areas. Here a packrafter descends to the headwaters of the Green River, deep in the heart of Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains.

that, over fifty million years, have carved a labyrinth of valleys and canyons through a massive volcanic plateau. There is also a healthy population of large megafauna— grizzly, wolf, elk, and bison, among others.

Prominent on any map of the southern Absaroka Mountains are three long blue lines: the South Fork of the Shoshone River, Thorofare Creek, and Pacific Creek.

Hiking and paddling, two friends and I connected these lines into a one-hundredplus-mile grand tour of the Washakie/ Teton Wilderness Complex, one of the most remote regions in the Lower 48.

WE STARTED WALKING near Dubois, hiking up Shoshone Pass to Bliss Creek Meadows and the South Fork of the Shoshone River at 8,200 feet. There we inflated our boats. Soon after, though, the river disappeared under giant boulders— a deadly rock sieve. Fortunately, the current was slow and the sieve easily spotted.

We hauled our packrafts out of the water and portaged it. Below this obstacle was the first of three gorges filled with continuous whitewater. Grassy alpine meadows dotted with purple lupine and red Indian paintbrush separated the gorges.

By the time we entered the tortuous third gorge, the river had gained volume and speed. Riding the strong current around a blind turn, I was suddenly met

by a “strainer.” A beetle-killed lodgepole pine had fallen across the river, blocking half the channel. After a failed attempt to paddle to the opposite side, I collided with the downed dead tree and immediately capsized.

Initially, I resisted the downward pull of the river. I was still upside down, though. It felt unnatural to leave the surface and its supply of oxygen. Eventually, the power of the water proved too much: I was pulled from the flipped raft and down to the river’s rocky bottom. The current swept me under the tree—and then spit me back up to the surface. I thrashed my way to shore, leaving my raft in the snag until it, too, was pulled under the tree. I thought it would be punctured for sure.

It wasn’t. We managed to free it and saw that it was fine.

Below this, the gradient of the river eased and the channel widened. We stopped to explore historic mining cabins below the near-vertical, rockstrewn flanks of Needle Mountain, a 12,106-foot peak the Shoshone Indians named “gew’iagarir,” or bird seat. Needle Mountain rises 5,300-plus feet above the river and is the highest peak along the canyon. We camped on a sandy gravel bar in its shadow. That night, under a crescent moon, wolves serenaded us.

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The following morning, it was back to hiking. Our packrafts on our backs, we ascended the snow-covered, 11,500foot divide between the Shoshone and Yellowstone rivers. At the crest I startled a golden eagle. The massive raptor took flight just a few feet from me; it was so close I could see the sharpness of its talons.

We followed game trails down Bruin Creek and by evening, found a comfortable, grassy camp alongside the headwaters of the Thorofare. This was familiar

Green River Lakes is a major trailhead in Wyoming’s northern Wind River Mountains and offers a beautiful opportunity to paddle on calm water. Squaretop Mountain dominates the skyline.

terrain to me. Finding comfort in the soft grass and the knowledge the most dangerous section of the trip was behind us, I slept well. Three days later, after descending Thorofare Creek, we crossed the Continental Divide and paddled Pacific Creek into Jackson Hole.

This was a fairly ambitious trip.

Jackson Hole has fun packrafting runs for all abilities and schedules. Fly fishermen and hikers carry packrafts into remote lakes and scenic rivers in the Teton and Wind River ranges to explore, fish, or just relax for days or a week. Expert paddlers can challenge themselves on the roadside whitewater of the Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Yes, packrafts can handle serious whitewater … if their paddlers have the skills. I’ve watched novice packrafters with only a day or two of instruction successfully tackle the legendary whitewater of the Snake River Canyon. Packrafting really is simple, forgiving, and easy to learn. JH 102

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Michael Fiebig navigates the rapids on the South Fork of the Sun River in Montana’s Bob Marshall Wilderness Area in a packraft.

NUTS & BOLTS Season The rivers and creeks in and around Jackson Hole are highly dependent on snowmelt. By late summer, many backcountry creeks lack enough water for packrafting, so the prime season for small rafts is May, June, and July. Peak river flows typically coincide with the summer solstice in June. When water levels are at their highest, even the most experienced paddlers need to exercise extreme caution. August and September are great months to hike into high alpine lakes or practice your skills on the Snake River, which is floatable by packrafts all summer and fall.

Gear Jackson Hole Packraft rents Alpacka Rafts through Rendezvous River Sports in Jackson.

Alpacka Rafts can also be purchased online. They cost about $1,000.

When backcountry packrafting during May and June, temperatures can still be chilly; dry suits are lighter to carry than wet suits and are the best insurance for staying warm and avoiding hypothermia. Later in the summer, a thin or partial wet suit is often adequate. Other important safety gear includes an approved Personal Floatation Device (PFD), kayaking helmet, throw bag, rescue knife, and the knowledge of how to use them.

Rendezvous River Sports offers instruction and training.

LANDSCAPES • HARDSCAPES WATERSCAPES DESIGN & INSTALLATION

Destinations Leigh Lake. For those seeking a serene and scenic float, Leigh Lake in Grand Teton National Park is an ideal destination. A mile of easy hiking from the String Lake Parking Area leads to the put-in.

Pacific Creek. Appropriate for novices, Pacific Creek is a highly scenic out-and-back packrafting trip. Start hiking at the Pacific Creek Trailhead: Five miles of pleasant walking along a flat and well-maintained trail leads to the confluence of Gravely and Pacific creeks and an enjoyable swiftwater float back to the trailhead.

Buffalo Fork River. The Buffalo Fork River is a true packrafting wilderness adventure best for intermediate to advanced boaters. The time commitment is minimal, though: a day. From Turpin Meadows north of Moran, hike the Buffalo Fork Trail to the confluence of the North and South Buffalo Forks. Raft the confluence back to the trailhead—it’s an exciting five-mile whitewater adventure through the Teton Wilderness.

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getting out

Cast And They Might Come Learning the secrets of the fly-fishing cast

BY KELSEY DAYTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRICE CHAMBERS 104

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

Josh Gallivan was in Argentina looking for gold. A Golden Dorado.

Casting into a crystal-clear stream deep in Argentinian jungle, Gallivan could see his prey. Each time his fly landed on the fresh water, the twenty-five-pound fish struck, jumping three feet into the air, huge teeth bared and black tail flailing as it lunged for the line—sometimes snapping its jaw shut with the hook inside— before plummeting back underwater.

“It was the most insane experience I’ve ever had,” Gallivan says. “That’s what is cool about fly fishing—adventure, the places it takes you. It opens up the world; the world is 85 percent water.”

Gallivan’s dorado adventure was a couple of years ago. On this late summer day we’re pondside at Teton Pines.

Gallivan isn’t just a recreational fly fisherman, he’s also a guide/instructor with Jack Dennis. As the latter, he has a much less intense task today than hooking an exotic fish; in a two-hour lesson, he’s going to teach me the basics of fly fishing and how to cast.

I grew up in Montana, the land of Norman Maclean’s A River Runs Through It, a book and then a movie, that elevates the sport of fly fishing into art. The book stirred romantic notions about fishing in my imagination. But I never actually tried to learn how to cast.

As a kid, my dad took my brother and me fishing. We had kid-size poles, worms, and red and white bobbers. I’d hurl my line into the water with gusto Fly-fishing guide Josh and then stare at the Gallivan snags a trout bobber, willing it to to show a client what disappear below the they’re after. surface, or at least wobble. When it didn’t, I’d grow impatient and leave my pole unattended while I wandered off to explore elsewhere.

Once my dad tried to share his passion for ice fishing with us kids. I remember a lot of complaining, worrying about the ice not holding us, sitting in the cold, more sitting in the cold, and more complaining. I don’t think my dad ever took us ice fishing again.

I knew fly fishing with Gallivan was going to be far more involved than throwing a bobber in the pond and leaving my pole on the bank, but I didn’t really know what to expect. I knew a bit about fly fishing from talking with fishermen and -women. I had tried casting once, at an outdoor writers’ workshop, but that hadn’t gone so well. On my first cast, which initially zinged through the air and then fell languidly and crookedly right in front me, I got a bite. In most minds this would constitute success, but my random luck left me pan-

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Gallivan demonstrates the basics of a fly-fishing cast to a beginner fly fisherwoman.

icked. I shouted, “I think I caught a fish, but I don’t know what to do with it!”

That ended up in a newsletter for the conference alongside an unflattering picture of me struggling with the pole and looking alarmed.

Probably noticing my skeptical and slightly nervous face, Gallivan assures me the two-hour lesson is a perfect basic introduction into the sport.

Gallivan grew up in Jackson. An uncle introduced him to the area’s waters, fostered an appreciation for time spent outdoors, and instilled a passion for fly fishing. By the time he was in high school, Gallivan was fishing with friends, spending as much time as he could outside standing in a river.

“It just went from there,” he says.

“And I liked where it took me.”

Where it took him was all over the world. At twenty-four years old, Gallivan has fished in six different countries. That summer of 2011 when Gallivan taught me to cast, he was preparing to spend several months in New Zealand. His idea was to fish his way across the country.

The possibilities with fishing are endless, he tells me, from the trout in the rivers of Wyoming to sharks in the Bahamas.

“There’s a zillion fish in the world to fish for,” he says. “It’s a never-ending quest for the next fish.”

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At the end of a flyfishing lesson with Gallivan, you should be able to cast and catch a fish.

It’s a quest that brings quite a few people to Wyoming. Every day of the summer, Gallivan can teach up to four casting lessons. Sometimes his students are experienced fly fishermen and -women, wanting to perfect or learn a new type of cast or hoping that they’ll glean some trade secrets from Gallivan. But most people taking lessons are novices like me. The lessons offer a chance to test fly fishing before committing to a more expensive and longer trip. Two hours is just enough time to get a taste of the sport and clear up a few misconceptions. One of the most common? Flies are not actual insects on the end of the line.

Gallivan opens a small tackle box teeming with flies made of fur and feathers in an array of colors from muted earth tones to fluorescents. People often think the casting motion is an attempt to imitate a flying insect, teasing the fish to jump out of the water. As he peers into the case, Gallivan tells me the motion is really about aiming and drying the fly.

Opening a tackle box is like opening a door to new possibilities for many clients. “Then they start to understand that fish, not just trout, all over the world will eat a fly,” he says.

At the end of the two-hour lesson people can expect to know a little about knots and flies. The goal is that they’ll 106

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

also have the ability to cast twenty feet of line. “If you can cast twenty feet, you can catch any fish in the river from a drift boat,” Gallivan says.

That can be harder than many people expect.

The key to the cast is not breaking the wrist, Gallivan says, showing me in slow motion. He assures me, correctly, that it will initially feel a little awkward. There’s a natural tendency to snap the wrist—you’d think that would hurl the line farther.

Gallivan has seen big men try to chuck the line, unsuccessfully getting it away from the bank, while a small child who manages to keep her wrist straight makes a perfect cast, landing the line straight and far out into the pond.

“You have to learn to feel the rod and let the rod do the work,” Gallivan says. “It’s all about the timing. It’s not about muscle.”

The rhythm of the timing is a pick-up and pause, with the rod in the air.

“You gotta feel the rod load. That means it’s turning into a spring. Feel that and you’re ready to cast forward,” he tells me. “For a lot of people, it’s hard to get that feeling. It’s a very unnatural motion.”

I tip the rod behind me, and when I pause, I follow Gallivan’s instruction to look up and watch the line. Whipping and unfurling in the air, I can see the tension in the rod change as it loads. I cast, careful not to break my wrist. And

I cast. And I cast. Each time, I watch the line and the rod, and try to feel the moment it’s ready. Soon my line is going out farther and straighter.

At the start of my lesson, Gallivan assured me that by the end of it, I would be able to—skill-wise at least, there’s no counting for fish behavior—catch one of the cutthroat trout stocked in the pond.

As the lesson draws to an end, I haven’t had a fish on my line, but I’m having my A River Runs Through It moment. I’ve found a rhythm, and there is something peaceful and beautiful about watching the line spring in the air and land straight in front of me. But then, after a few minutes the moment is broken, and as I cast, I watch the fishing line, withering in front of me, land curled and close to the bank instead of straight and toward the center of the pond where I’m aiming.

Perhaps I need another lesson. JH

NUTS & BOLTS HIGH COUNTRY FLIES has taken over the fly-fishing contract at Teton Pines from Jack Dennis. A two-hour casting lesson is $100 for up to two people and $150 for up to four people. To make reservations, call 307-7337210. Visit www.highcountryflies.com for more information. Jack Dennis still offers a variety of fly-fishing adventures, excursions, and lessons.

307-690-0910; www.jackdennisfishingtrips.com

A Worthy Venue for the Greatest Game Ever Played.

3 Creek Ranch, home to a World-Class Private Club with a Reese Jones designed championship golf course, clay tennis courts, swimming pool,

Jackson Hole

fitness center and Nordic skiing, is only one of the reasons to live in the

Jackson Hole

www.3CreekRanch-JH.com (307) 732-8960

majestic nature reserve of 3 Creek Ranch. With three blue-ribbon spring

www.3CreekRanch-JH.com (307) 739-9292

director of membership sales: mike connaughton Mconnaughton@3creekranch-jh.com 2800 Ranch House Circle Jackson Hole, WY 83001

creeks for fly fishing, an onsite Nature Center with Outdoor Pursuits programs, and nearby alpine skiing, the experiences are boundless, but membership and ownership opportunities are limited.

This material is intended to encourage the sale of real property at 3 Creek Ranch, Teton County, Wyoming.

This material does not constitute an offer to sell nor a solicitation to buy in any state where registration is required if such registration requirements have not been fulfilled.

broker: todd a. domenico exclusive brokerage for 3 creek ranch Tdomenico@3creekranch-jh.com 2655 3 Creek Drive Jackson Hole, WY 83001

Looking North across Hole 16 toward the Tetons SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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getting out

All Downhill from Here Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is more than skiing

BY BRANDON ZIMMERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRICE CHAMBERS

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Andrew Whiteford gets some respectable air at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s new downhill bike park.

“The trail system here is fantastic,” Whiteford says about the trails from the Teewinot lift.

“It was a good move for the resort and great for the community.”

From emergencies to orthopaedics, cosmetic surgery to travel medicine, St. John’s Medical Center can help.

anesthesiology EVERY DAY LAST summer, Teton findadoctorjacksonhole.org general surgery cardiology g eurologyVillage findadoctorjacksonhole.org internal medicine findadoctorjacksonhole.org resident Colin Brunner gave his ten-year-old son, Evan, four dollars to findadoctorjacksonhole.org obstetrics and gynecology pain management anesthesiology buysurgery lunch—pizza otolaryngology(ENT and a soda. The bills general family medicine cognitive health findadoctorjackson in his pocket, Evan would don a helmet, oncology/hematology findadoctorjacksonhole.org pediatrics neurology ort gloves, and shin and elbow pads, stradfindadoctorjacksonhole.org family medicine findadoctorjacksonhole.org dermatol dle his mountain bike and head for the obstetrics findadoctorjacksonhole.org otolaryngology or smooth trail beds, banked oncology/hematology corners, and buffed landings at the new Jackson Hole living center findadoctorjacksonhole.org perinatology hospitalists dermatology Mountain Resort Bike Park. His dad plastic and reconstructive surgery internal medicine findadoctorjacksonhole.org wouldn’t see him again until the park internal emergency medicine findadoctorjacksonhole.org sleep medicine closedmedicine at 6 p.m. obstetrics “Hefindadoctorjacksonhole.org radiology urology orthopaedics internal medicine rides up to eight hours each day,” plastic andsays. reconstructive the elder Brunner “Nobody has more surgery pulmonology findadoctorjacksonhole.org hours in on these new trails than him.”

Mountain biking isn’t new at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, but lift-accessed downhill biking is. Previously, the trails at the resort were limited to about ten miles of cross-country trails like the beginnerfriendly Lower Face Loop, Moose Alley, and Solitude. Climbing and descending through open meadows and aspens and pine near the bottom of the resort, these trails were fun but fairly ho-hum.

Wildlife—moose and black bears were regulars—provided the excitement. It was entirely possible to come around a corner and find yourself bike-to-face with a black bear. (Actually, that’s still possible on the new trails.) If you happened to be in Jackson Hole and had your bike with you, these trails were enjoyable, but you’d never have thought to come to Teton Village specifically to ride.

In 2010, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort committed to changing that.

Included in its $3 million of mountain improvements that year was the addition of a downhill bike park. It would be the first such park in the state. “JHMR has been growing its summer offerings to better meet the needs of both locals and summer visitors,” says Zahan Billimoria, JHMR Communications Manager. “Developing mountain biking was a logical step because Jackson Hole is already home to a very well-developed mountain bike trail system—both crosscountry and downhill.”

How is downhill mountain biking different from regular mountain biking?

Well, downhill biking is, as it sounds, all about the down. There’s no uphill.

www.findadoctorjacksonhole.org for a complete directory.

St John’s

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Teton Village • 307-734-7111 tetonlodge.com

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ABOVE: Coyotes are one of numerous c visitors often spot in the Hayden Valley ers include bison, elk, and wolves.

ABOVE: Ski lifts are outfitted with bike carriers. You and your friends take a separate chair after loading up your bikes. RIGHT: Cornelia Farmer rides along the boardwalk on Lucky Charm as it crosses a boulder field.

You could ride uphill but why, when attendants at the Teewinot lift load bikes onto the same chairlifts skiers and snowboarders ride in the winter? Your bike safely on the lift, it’s your turn to hop on.

Five minutes later, you and your bike are 423 vertical feet above the resort’s base area and faced with the choice of which of the six trails in the park you’re going to take to get back down.

TO BUILD THE park, the resort wisely partnered with Whistler, British Columbia-based Gravity Logic, a traildesigning/building company best known for its cutting-edge downhill bike trail park at another ski resort, Whistler Blackcomb. Our park is on a substantially different scale than Whistler’s, which has 120-plus miles of trails (and has been around since 1995). Still, Jackson Hole’s four miles of trails are interesting and challenging enough to warrant it as a stop on the Red Bull Final Descent Tour, a series of twelve-hour downhill mountain bike races. And the four miles of trails are unlike anything else in the valley. Teton Pass has downhill trails— you and your bike either hitch a ride to the top or shuttle cars rather than take a lift—but most of them are for advanced downhillers only and aren’t nearly as smooth as the JHMR trails.

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JHMR’s park was built in two phases: half of the trails were done the summer of 2010 and were rideable that September.

Despite 2010/11’s record snowfall, the rest of the trails were finished early the next summer. The park’s grand opening was July 9, 2011.

WINDING THROUGH stands of pine and aspen near the Eagle’s Rest and Teewinot lifts, which, in the winter service beginner ski and snowboard terrain, the majority of the trails are at the bottom of Apres Vous Mountain. Bandit, one of the park’s intermediate trails, has already shown itself to be a favorite, switchbacking down through the woods between the two chairlifts before heading into an open, grassy area at the bottom of the Bridger Gondola. Along the way, there are tabletops—small ramps whose tops are a plateau—high-banking corners, and jump tracks. Riders can hit the obstacles, or go off-trail and around them.

Constructing the trails required hard labor. Workers took to the woods with backhoes, front loaders, and other major earth-moving machinery. They used chain saws to clear large branches—what’s worse than getting whipped by an aspen as you speed past?—and a few trees were removed. A few unlucky workers were on hand duty, using

LEFT: Iconic landmarks such as the Lo Falls of the Yellowstone River look star ferent in the frigid grip of winter.

shovels and other hand tools to clear the trails of fine debris and pack down the dirt. Bikes might be able to roll over them with impunity, but small rocks are a big nuisance to clear (and can do serious damage to both skin and bike if you fall). JHMR wanted these trails buff, so they dealt with the nuisance.

“We wanted to build a playground for riders at every stage of the game. We have a lot of experience riding powder in the winter, so we wanted to create a similar mountain bike experience that was effortless and fluid—just what makes riding powder such a blast. The trails are as smooth as desert slickrock, and have amazing features like wooden bridges and jumps of all sizes. The berms, banked corners, and takeoffs are all contoured and smooth; it’s like being in the perpetual sweet spot of the trail,” says Ranyon d’Arge, the park’s supervisor. “On most of the beginner trails, you hardly need to pedal or brake, you just flow.” You’re not bunny-hopping roots on these four-foot-wide bermed beauties. You will be whipping out of banked corners and, on the Lucky Charm trail, rolling over a 377-foot-long, six-foot-

critters y. Oth-

ower rkly dif-

wide wooden bike bridge. The bridge spans a boulder field. “It’s the most beautiful part of the park for sure,” says Michael Bader, a thirty-six-year-old seasonal resident and intermediate mountain biker. “There’s not too many places where you can ride across a bridge like that on top of boulders.”

“We have turned the valley into a totally different world for bikes,” d’Arge says. JH

NUTS & BOLTS The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Bike Park is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Opening day is dependent on conditions, but it’s scheduled for June 16 this year. The park is open daily through September 2 and then, weather permitting, weekends only through September. Daily lift tickets are $35, or $30 for winter pass holders.

Season passes are $249 and $169 (winter pass holders). Kids under five ride for free. Numerous places in Teton Village rent downhill bikes, helmets, and protective pads. The JHMR Mountain Sports School offers downhill lessons and clinics.

For more information, go to www.jacksonhole.com/ mountainbiking.html or call 307-733-2292. Hikers are not allowed on park trails. There are plenty of hiker-friendly trails elsewhere at the resort.

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www.jhecotouradventures.com SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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body & soul

Saving Face Caring for your skin at our elevation and climate

BY DINA MISHEV Photography by Price Chambers

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THE WIND ISN’T bitter, but it is fierce, lashing at the right side of my face. Hiking east from the top of Snow King, there’s no chance of reprieve until I descend, several hours later, into Cache Creek. By that time, my lips are chapped, my right ear’s ringing, and half of my face feels rubbed raw. I’m probably sunburnt, too. Returning home, I head straight for a mirror, and it is as I fear: Between wind- and sunburn, the right side of my face is the color of a huckleberry. I touch it, and it stings.

“The lack of humidity, close proximity to the sun, and extreme weather here, combined with our active outdoor lifestyle, takes its toll on our skin,” says Grace Mahoney, a licensed esthetician and cosmetologist since 1986 and the Spa and Fitness Director at The Spa at Shooting Star. (FYI, even though Shooting Star is a private club, its spa is open to the public.)

A week after my skin’s battle with our elements, I’m wrapped in terry under a blanket of down-y goodness lying face-up on a table in one of Shooting Star’s seven treatment rooms. I expect Mahoney to chastise me—having lived in the valley for fourteen years, I should have known to protect myself better. But she doesn’t.

Mahoney does study my skin carefully to see exactly how bad it is. She covers my eyes with cotton eye pads and then turns the spotlight on. Of course, I can’t see this, but I just know she’s got the magnification mirror out, too. The horror! If I weren’t so

Facials today include traditional steps such as exfoliating, deep cleansing, and moisturizing, and more modern techniques like light therapy and microderm abrasion to provide relaxing and healing experiences.

comfortable and relaxed swaddled in all sorts of soft stuff atop a heated bed, I might get nervous. Or at least self-conscious.

“Your skin sure is windburned and suffering from exposure,” Mahoney says.

“Nothing we can’t fix, though.” Mahoney decides the spa’s LED Light Therapy Facial will be the most beneficial. Who knew skin care had gotten so space-age? LED red light, in combination with microcurrent, triggers tissue repair and healing to soften fine lines and wrinkles. LED blue light has an antibacterial and calming action on damaged and sensitive skin. In between cleansing, exfoliation, facial massage, extractions, moisturizing, and a mask—all of the components of a usual facial—my skin gets some serious blue light.

In the locker room post-treatment, I hardly recognize myself. My skin is back to its normal color. Better than normal, actually. It glows. I’ve had dozens and dozens and dozens of facials; never have I left one looking as different (in a good way) as I do this one.

“LED light therapy is beneficial for all skin types at any elevation or climate, but at our high altitude, LED really provides extra support our skin needs,” Mahoney says.

WHILE IT’S OBVIOUSLY possible to fix some damage after the fact, dermatologists and estheticians do recommend being proactive rather than reactive. “Usually people don’t start to pay attention to their skin until they see it’s damaged or notice a change they want to correct,” says Tina Daily, an esthetician at Hotel Terra’s Chill Spa. “Most of the people who live here play hard and don’t take time to have a spa treatment. But it is so much more beneficial to be proactive when it comes to skin care.” Being proactive doesn’t necessarily mean weekly spa facials. “You can do most of this stuff at home,” Daily says.

“Dehydration is the most common skin issue I see here,” Mahoney says. “Skin can be lacking water [dehydrated] or lacking lipids [dry]. Skin can be dehydrated and dry.

At our altitude, we have a hard time keeping both balanced.” Daily adds, “Most people who live here have skin that is constantly dehydrated.”

Dehydration causes premature aging, clogged pores, flaking, itching, redness, and discoloration. It’s not something you want your skin to be. It is also less able to recover and protect itself. “Dehydrated skin tends to have poor cell turnover,” Mahoney says. “Keeping skin moisturized in a climate like ours takes more effort than it does in a more humid environment. Visitors especially have difficulties. Locals are more used to it, and skin can adjust. I’ve seen visitors get very frustrated with flaking skin, nails that break, and dry hair.”

Both Daily and Mahoney recommend cleansing, toning, and moisturizing at morning and night. You should exfoliate once to twice a week. “Exfoliation is probably the most neglected step,” Daily says. “You don’t want to do it too much, because the outer layers of skin are protective, but removing dead skin does allow products like moisturizer to penetrate better.”

Chill Spa at Hotel Terra has the Elevate High Altitude Therapy Facial on its spa menu. “At most spas, people get facials because they want to relax,” Daily says. “Here, people get facials because they need a facial.”

What’s up with SPF ratings?

(Other than the numbers themselves) Walking down the sunscreen aisle at Albertsons, you see an SPF 100 among the SPF 15s, 30s, and 45s. “Higher is better, right? SPF 100 is what I need,” you think. Think again. No SPF, not even 100-plus, offers 100 percent protection. And the extra protection afforded by an SPF 100 over an SPF 50 is marginal. SPF 100 blocks 99 percent of UVB rays. SPF 50 blocks 98 percent. Even old SPF 30 is respectable: 96.7 percent.

A sunscreen’s sun protection factor (SPF) measures how much it shields the wearer from UVB rays, which can cause sunburn and skin cancer.

SPF is calculated by comparing the time needed for a person to burn unprotected with how long it takes them to burn when wearing sunscreen. Say you turn red after twenty minutes of being out in the sun without sunscreen. Theoretically, if you adequately apply SPF 15, you’re protected for fifteen times longer. The key word here is adequately.

Rather than worrying about the SPF rating of your sunscreen, you should worry about wearing enough of whatever SPF you have. To get the SPF advertised, you must use an ounce. What’s an ounce? A full shot glass. If you skimp on this, you lose protection. It had long been thought that applying half an ounce—half the recommended amount—meant half the protection. A small 2007 study showed that thinking optimistic, however. If you apply half the amount, you get only the protection of the square root of the SPF. So then half an ounce of SPF 60 doesn’t equal SPF 35 but SPF 7.7.

One last thing: It isn’t just UVB rays that can cause skin cancer, but also the sun’s more deeply penetrating UVA rays. SPF doesn’t protect against these, but many sunscreens now include UVAfighting ingredients like Mexoryl SX and avobenzone.

While some countries have UVA rating systems in addition to SPF ratings, the United States doesn’t. For now, the best we can do is make sure a sunscreen says UVA/UVB protection. (Aloe Gator, Snowberry, and Anthelios do, and their UVA protection doesn’t degrade in the sun; oddly, some UVA-blocking ingredients do lose effectiveness once in sunlight.)

Go ahead, slather up.

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Monumental OVER THE LAST 50 yEARS, Grand Teton Music Festival has developed a reputation as one of the nation’s most important summer music festivals. Fresh off a spectacular 50th Anniversary Season in 2011, the Festival looks toward the future with some of the most exceptional programming and special guests offered to date— pianist Stephen Hough performing Rachmaninoff ’s Piano Concerto No. 3 with guest conductor Mark Wigglesworth, percussionist Colin Currie in MacMillan’s Veni, Veni, Emmanuel, violinist James Ehnes in Sibelius’ Violin Concerto and much more.

Join us this summer in Teton Village to continue the tradition of exhilarating musical experiences in Jackson Hole!

2012 Summer SeaSon: July 4 – aug. 18 walk festival hall • teton village

tueSdayS InsIde the MusIc FREE concerts are fun for aficionados and first-timers to classical music!

tHurSdayS MusIcIans’ choIce Chamber music handpicked

by Festival Musicians.

FRee, tickets required

$25 / $10 students

wedneSdayS spotlIght conceRts An eclectic offering of jazz to bluegrass and beyond.

fri & Sat oRchestRa conceRts Festival Orchestra in concert with today’s top artists.

$40 & $50 / $10 students

$54 / $10 students

307-733-1128 www.gtmf.org 10% off your ticket price!

MentIon thIs ad when you call oR use the code “JHm” when oRdeRIng onlIne.

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The sun and thinner air at high altitude work against us, too. The Earth’s lower atmospheric layer contains gases and vast quantities of water and dust.

While you’d think dust in the air would only clog pores, it actually protects our skin from the sun’s radiation; the higher the elevation, though, the less dense the air and the less protection floating around in it. Protection decreases about 4 percent for every 1,000-foot gain in altitude. While it can take twenty-five minutes to sunburn in New York City, it can take as little as nine minutes at 7,000 feet in Jackson. “I grew up on the beach and thought the sun was strong,” Mahoney says. “But it’s so much stronger here.” Both Mahoney and Daily don’t go outside without SPF 30 on.

“You may need to be more diligent about your skin care routine here—paying extra attention to hydration inside and out, wearing night cream, drinking lots of water, and putting on sunscreen— to counterbalance the harsh environment, but living in this beautiful, clean, healthy, low-stress area is well worth the effort,” Mahoney adds. JH

One-Upping Moisturizer Jackson-based trilipiderm recently launched an all-body moisture retention crème. “It’s unlike any dry-skin moisturizer you’ve ever used,” says company founder Frank Fanning. “Trilipiderm is not only formulated to be absorbed easily into the skin to replenish moisture levels and alleviate dryness, but also actually rebuilds the skin’s natural barrier to water loss. It actually cures dry skin and prevents its return.”

An eight-ounce bottle is $24.95. You can find trilipiderm at Goodie2Shoes, Harmonic Spa, Shear Dimensions, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort retail locations, and Teton Dermatology. While trilipiderm contains vitamin E, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, it does not contain sunscreen.

Best of

nightlife

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Chuckwagons Eat a slice of the Old West

ASHLEY WILKERSON

BY Cara Rank

Back in the 1800s, when cowboys rode the western range, moving cattle on long drives from ranchlands to railroads, they ended their rough, dusty days around a campfire. The campfire was their social center, recreational spot, and dining room. Each night, the cook traveling with them in a chuckwagon would fix up a hearty dinner.

“The chuckwagon was as close to a home as these guys had after a long, hard day in the saddle,” says Scott Humphrey, whose family founded the Bar J Chuckwagon.

“Cowboys would eat supper under the stars, sit around the campfire, sing songs, and swap stories and jokes.”

While weekslong cattle drives across the open range may be a thing of the past, you can still get a glimpse of this part of the Old West. Several outfitters around Jackson Hole have taken the concepts of yesterday Visitors get a and now let you share wagon ride, dinner, and a in the chuckwagon fun show at experience nightly, the Bar T 5 Chuckwagon in without the saddle Cache Creek. sores and trail dust.

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JENNA SCHOENEFELD

For Families Bar J Chuckwagon

Scott Humphrey performs with the Bar J Wranglers nightly at the Bar J Chuckwagon.

“We try to let people experience the type of life that cowboys lived day to day in the Old West.”

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In 1977, Jackson was still pretty Old West. Working ranches dotted the valley, real cowboys outnumbered dudes at the Cowboy Bar, and there were even a few hitching posts around the Town Square for those loathe to trade horse for car.

That wasn’t enough for Babe Humphrey and his family, recently transplanted to Jackson from Colorado, though.

After helping found the original western chuckwagon, the Flying W in Colorado Springs, Colorado, Humphrey opened the Bar J Chuckwagon between Jackson and Teton Village in the summer of 1977 to show Jackson Hole visitors what the Old West was really like. “We try to let people experience the type of life that cowboys lived day to day in the Old West,” says Scott Humphrey, Babe’s forty-nine-year-old son and a member of the Bar J Wranglers, the chuckwagon’s nationally recognized entertainers. “For the cowboy, the chuckwagon was a home away from home. That’s what we like to think we are, too.”

For up to six hundred guests a night, the Bar J is just that. Prior to dinner, cowboys- and cowgirls-for-a-night can wander through the Bar J’s Old West village, stocking up on regionally crafted souvenirs, old-fashioned candy sticks, and more modern accoutrements like T-shirts. Eventually, one of the Wranglers whacks at a twelve-inch-wide triangle hanging from the front of the grub line, signaling the beginning of dinner. Your choices are ones cowboys most likely never had: barbecue beef, barbecue chicken, pork rib, or rib-eye. All dinners also come with a potato, beans, a hot homemade biscuit, spice cake, and lemonade or coffee … and entertainment.

The food at the Bar J is good, but it’s the ninety-minute after-dinner show that you’re really here for. The Bar J Wranglers have played for Roy Rogers (on national television, nonetheless), George Bush, Sr., former Vice President Dick Cheney, and at the Grand Ole Opry.

They tour the world during their eightmonth off-season. “We’ve traveled all over the place playing for some big names, but performing in our own backyard is really special,” Humphrey says. A Bar J Wranglers performance includes three-part vocal harmony, yodeling, humor, and fiddle playing.

“It’s the style of music that Country Western got its roots from,” Humphrey says. “Cowboys sang their songs on the trails long before Country Western got its start.”

With a large, covered lodgepole facility, the Bar J Chuckwagon goes on every day, rain or shine, from Memorial Day through the last Saturday of September.

Reservations are necessary. Children are $12; adults from $20. 307-733-3370; www.barjchuckwagon.com

For Authenticity Bar T 5 The Bar T 5 is literally on the outskirts of the town of Jackson. The fact you can walk to the Town Square isn’t its only distinction, though. This chuckwagon can trace its roots to Nick Wilson, the man who brought one of the first wagon trains over Teton Pass and into Jackson Hole. Wilson, who is the namesake of the town of Wilson at the base of Teton Pass, did this in 1889. His trip took twenty-one days.

Eighty-five years later, in 1974, Wilson’s great-grandson started the Bar T 5 to keep that pioneer spirit alive. These days, Wilson’s descendants no longer own the operation, but you can still hear about him (when only a teenager he ran away from home and lived with the Shoshone tribe; he was the adopted brother of the great Chief Washakie) during the nightly chuckwagon dinners.

The three-hour evening begins at the Bar T 5 corrals in horse-drawn covered wagons. While the Bar J entertains

BRADLY J. BONER

ASHLEY WILKERSON

Cooks at the Bar J Chuckwagon serve about two hundred steaks each night.

The singing cowboys of the Bar T 5 Chuckwagon perform after dinner each night.

hundreds of people nightly, the Bar T 5 is a more intimate experience—its ten covered wagons can each only hold between fifteen and seventeen people.

The wagons take you about two miles up scenic Cache Creek Canyon on a primitive Forest Service road paralleling the burbling Cache Creek. Lest you get too relaxed, cowboys and Native Americans—actors and actresses riding around on horseback—stage an ambush of the wagon train as it rolls toward its dinner camp.

The ambush survived and camp safely reached, you’ll make your way to the chow line for endless plates of barbecue chicken, roast beef, green salad, corn on the cob, and rolls. The not-to-bemissed item is the Bar T 5 beans, a secret recipe that’s been around for years.

“When I think of a chuckwagon, I think of great food,” says Patricia Schiess, general manager of the Bar T 5 Covered Wagon Cookout. “What we serve is how the guys out on the wagons, on the cattle drive, used to eat.”

As at the Bar J, when dinner is finished, the entertainment—guitar and fiddle music—starts. And then it’s time to get back in the covered wagon and head home with the setting sun.

Chuckwagons leave from the Bar T 5’s base nightly at 5 or 6:30 and start up

mid-May, running through September.

Reservations are required. Adults, $43; children, $36; under four, free. 800-7725386; www.bart5.com

For Foodies The Rancher Cookout The valley’s most intimate and hands-on chuckwagon is out at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Take a thirtyminute ride in a horse-drawn, opentrail wagon—or better yet, do an hourlong trail ride along the boundary of Grand Teton National Park—to the historic Gray Barn at the base of the Tetons and just north of Teton Village.

At the barn, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, you’ll be greeted by picnic tables set around an authentic chuckwagon (with flaps and all) and a campfire crackling in the background. You’ll even get to see horses gallop by as they are let out to pasture nearby for the evening. (These are the horses used for the trail rides that start from Teton Village.)

“I think it’s a pretty cool experience,” says Jay Brewer, JHMR’s director of food service. “You get out just far enough from the activity of Teton Village that you feel submerged in the mountains.”

Once you arrive at the old barn,

you’ll be entertained by a real-life cowboy (Colonel is his name) with stories, songs, guitar music, and, for a different twist, hatchet throwing. Because this is limited to fifty to sixty guests a night, you’ll even have a chance to try your hand at cowboy skills like roping. (It is as hard as it looks.)

At this chuckwagon, dinner follows Colonel’s show. Overseen by JHMR’s award-winning Executive Chef Wes Hamilton, it includes all-natural tri-tip or barbecue chicken, a salad of tomato and cucumber, baked beans, cornbread, and homemade ice cream with berry crisp. (The cooks start churning the ice cream as soon as you arrive.) Sated and having had your fill of watching the sunset cast a pinkish glow on Sleeping Indian Mountain, it’s back to the wagons—even for those who rode over on a horse—for the return trip to Teton Village.

The Rancher Cookout is held every Tuesday through Saturday from June 15 to September 15. Reservations are required. The wagon ride and dinner runs from 5:30 to 8 p.m. and costs $70 for adults and $50 for kids ages five to twelve.

The trail ride and dinner begin at 5 p.m. and runs $95 for adults and $75 for kids ages six to twelve. Children under six must do the wagon ride. 307-739-2654; www.jacksonhole.com. JH SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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dining

Who’s Your Farmer?

Outstanding in the Field brings new meaning—and farmers—to its al fresco feasts.

BY LAUREL A. WICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRICE CHAMBERS

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IN THE MIDDLE of a mowed, fenced meadow with the Tetons in the distance, an uncommonly long, Last Supper-style table is festooned with white linens, silverware, and sparkling glassware. Wooden folding chairs await diners. Plates are conspicuously absent.

At this dinner, it’s tradition for diners to bring their own, resulting in a happy jumble of collective expression.

A smoky aroma—equally intriguing and tantalizing—wafts from a makeshift kitchen tent. Inside the tent, a team of chefs in blindingly white jackets scurries around.

People, protected from the July sun by hats and sunglasses, sip champagne, wine, and cocktails and nibble on appetizers. Cattle graze serenely just beyond the weathered split-rail fence.

Jackson has become an annual stop on Outstanding in the Field’s schedule, or “tour,” as the California-based venture calls it. This summer is its third trip to the valley. The mission?

To reconnect diners to the land and the origins of their food, and to honor the local farmers and food artisans who cultivate it.

Although it now produces up to eighty five-course dinners during each summer tour— and has done events as far afield as Brazil, Ireland, Italy, Denmark, Spain, and the Netherlands— Outstanding in the Field’s beginnings were humble. Fifty-something founder Jim Denevan is a surfer, former model, sand and snow artist (think elaborate crop circles using both mediums), and self-taught chef and is better with ideas than details. He is a “gentle con man with a knack for persuading people to do things for a greater good,” the New York Times Magazine wrote of Denevan in August 2005.

As the executive chef at Gabriella Café in Santa Cruz, California, in the late 1990s, Denevan marveled that he was able to source ingredients at farmers markets no further than an easy bike ride from the restaurant. At the markets, he’d talk to farmers and found they enjoyed his interest. Names of featured growers and farms began to appear on menus. The media began talking about celebrity farmers more than celebrity chefs. Denevan saw an emerging opportunity.

In 1999, he held a series of dinners in the café with farmers and purveyors as honored guests.

They—both the honored guests and the dinners—were a hit. The next step seemed to be to take dinners to farms, where diners could not only meet farmers but also their food in raw form. Denevan started at an apple orchard belonging to his older brother, Bill—one of the country’s first officially certified organic farmers—in the nearby Santa Cruz Mountains. These farm dinners were even more popular than the ones held at the café, and as public support grew, Denevan’s vision grew with it.

In 2003, Denevan and Outstanding in the Field went on the road in a red and white 1953 Flxible transit bus, which was purchased online for $7,000. The Bay Area was the first stop. Next was the Pacific Northwest, where Denevan sought to spread the OITF experience to the burgeoning food cultures around Portland and Seattle. Thirteen years after its founding, OITF has chefs and farmers nationwide volunteering their time, food, and space so Denevan can produce dinners.

Today, OITF events draw patrons from many places. At the first Jackson dinner, guests came from Atlanta, Houston, Chicago, Anaheim, British Columbia, New York, London, and Paris. Foodies across the country—and around the world—often seek out the yearly schedule early and select dinners by location and chef. They book flights and hotel reservations, taking in local color and culture.

This year’s tour dates and locations were announced March 1. Tickets for the eighty dinners, which cost between $180 and $220, went on sale March 20. Eighteen of the dinners sold out the first day. (As of press time, there were still tickets available—$220—for the Jackson dinner, which is July 24.)

Eighteen of the eighty 2012 OITF dinners sold out the first day tickets went on sale.

Outstanding in the Field returns to Jackson Hole for the third time this year. Chef Joel Cox of the Aspens Market follows in the footsteps of chefs Jeff Drew (Snake River Grill) and Richie Billingham (43 North) preparing a multicourse meal from local ingredients.

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Want to create your own OITF dinner?

Local sources for locally grown food:

JH Farmers Market Movieworks Plaza next to Twigs Thursday 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Friday 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

July to October Sloane Andrews founded this farmers market in 1998. Today, she has relationships with farmers in Utah, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington. She drives her weekly rounds returning with truckloads of fruits and vegetables, salsas, vinegars, honey, and jams for wholesale and retail sales.

Jackson Hole Farmers Market on the Town Square Saturday 8-11 a.m.

July to Mid-September Find everything from produce to baked goods, cheeses, meats, flowers, plants, honey, jams, jellies, herbal teas, soaps, lotions, hot coffee, and snacks here.

People’s Market Corner of Gill & Willow, Jackson Wednesdays 4-7 p.m.

June to September The People’s Market provides a venue for farmers, food producers, artists, musicians, and brewers. Come to hear music, taste locally brewed beer, or shop for fresh produce and foods.

Teton Valley Farmers Market Downtown Driggs, Idaho Thursdays 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Late June to Mid-September Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) These regional farms sell shares of their products. A share entitles you to a weekly box of goodies that may, depending on the farm and your preferences, include vegetables, flowers, dairy products, and meat. CSA seasons are usually about twenty weeks.

Snowdrift Farm: www.snowdriftfarm.org Cosmic Apple Farm: www.cosmicapple.com Evergreen Farm: www.evergreenfarm.typepad.com Regional Dairies & Creameries Teton Valley Creamery, Driggs: www.tetonvalleycreamery.com Amaltheia Organic Dairy: www.amaltheiadairy.com Ballard Family Dairy & Cheese: www.ballardcheese.com Lark’s Meadow Farms: www.larksmeadowfarms.com Paradise Springs Farm: www.paradisespringsfarm.com

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Chef Richie Billingham of 43 North sautées mushrooms in the makeshift open-air kitchen at the 2011 Outstanding in the Field dinner.

“OF THE FOUR hundred locations in eight countries where we have held dinners, Jackson Hole is in the top ten, just for the sheer beauty of the place,” Denevan says. His motivation in coming to the valley was to see what kind of dinner could be made from such a short growing season. As far as OITF dinners go, the only location with a growing season as short as Jackson Hole’s is Alaska’s Matanuska Valley. OITF did a dinner there in 2005.

The growing season wasn’t the only obstacle. There can be no OITF dinner without willing local chefs and growers. In May 2010, two months before the proposed dinner, Denevan called Jeff Drew. Drew, the executive chef and one of the owners of Jackson’s Snake River Grill who had recently been honored by the James Beard Foundation as the Best Chef: Northwest, didn’t hesitate in answering “yes.”

Seasonal and local ingredients have long been Drew’s focus.

“In our FedEx-dominated ‘global village,’ it’s cheap and easy to get big strawberries into our kitchens anytime. People forget what a strawberry really tastes like,” Drew says. “When a produce supplier strides through the door with a flat of summer berries still warm from the sun, handing them out to the staff as she passes, that’s a different experience. That fruit needs nothing to mask the perfection, just the simplest presentation.”

Next, OITF needed a venue. The Snake River Grill serves Mead Ranch beef. Husband and wife Brad and Kate Mead raise their cattle without steroids, hormones, or antibiotics on pastureland along Spring Gulch Road in Jackson. The Mead family has been ranching in the valley for more than a century. Brad Mead’s late grandfather, Clifford Hansen, a former U.S. senator and Wyoming governor, was born in the valley in 1912. He and his wife, Martha, who died last November at age ninety-seven, moved onto the Spring Gulch ranch in 1952; the family has been raising cattle there since. Brad and Kate Mead were happy to be a part of OITF. Olaf Koehler, the ranch foreman, got to work, mowing a swath of hay meadow that lined up with spectacular views of the Tetons. He flattened the remaining stubble and then, to create a softer “carpet,” tossed grass clippings on top of it. The dining “room” was ready.

The week before the dinner, Koehler hooked Lucy and Grace, the Meads’ Belgian Draft horses, to a flatbed hay wagon. He wanted them to do a few practice runs of the pre-dinner ranch tours they’d be taking guests on. At most OITF sites, a walking tour precedes dinner. The horse-drawn hay wagon added a certain charm.

AS THE SEVENTY diners arrived at the ranch—donning diverse fashion from western formal (blue jeans and cowboy hats) to supercasual (shorts, hiking boots, and visors)—they were ushered into the shady backyard of the ranch house and offered drinks. Keeping things local, the wine for the evening was from Niner Wine Estates. The winery is in Paso Robles, California, but is owned by part-time Jackson Hole residents Dick and Pam Niner, who were already familiar with OITF from Paso Robles. When Pam learned OITF was doing a dinner in Jackson, she offered Niner Wine Estates wine.

Look Taste Enjoy

The world’s finest purveyor of gourmet oils, vinegars, spices & spirits. Featuring single cask, single-malt Scotches, artisan An old world shopping experience in the heart of Jackson Hole European brandies, Absinthe and other fine liqueurs, culinary oils, fruit and balsamic 60 E. Broadway (under The Snake River Grill) vinegars; all sampled directly from the cask.

Jackson, WY 83001 • 307-734-1535

Kate Mead leads a horse-drawn wagon tour of her family’s Spring Gulch ranch at last year’s Outstanding in the Field dinner.

Servers circulated appetizers, including a cast iron-seared Ballard Dairy halloumi cheese and garlic crostini with Wyomato and backyard oregano. Chef Drew was at the patio barbecue creating Mead Ranch steak tacos with white corn tortilla, avocado, and Snowdrift Farm cilantro. Ballard Dairy is a family owned dairy in Gooding, Idaho. Wyomatoes are grown in greenhouses at an elevation of 7,500 feet near Big Piney, Wyoming.

Snowdrift Farm is a small organic/biodynamic farm in Victor, Idaho.

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THE WAGON RIDE was a hit. Then came dinner. The many-colored plates of fine china and hand-thrown stoneware brought by diners were like a handful of flower petals strewn along the table. In the middle of the table—guests dine family style—serving bowls of salad featured summer lettuces, fennel fronds, nasturtiums and violas from Haderlie Farms (Thayne, Wyoming), Snowdrift Farm lettuces, Wyomatoes, and Amaltheia Dairy (Belgrade, Montana) goat cheese. The dressing was made with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and shallots.

Chef Jeff Drew’s Green Beans and Grilled Garlic Scapes Serves 4 ½ lb. cleaned green beans ¼ lb. trimmed garlic scapes 3 oz. extra virgin olive oil 1 ½ T chopped fresh tarragon Cook the green beans until soft in a four-quart pot of salted, boiling water. Remove the green beans and place in ice-cold water (to stop the cooking and preserve the color).

Those lucky enough to attend the Outstanding in the Field dinner at the Mead Ranch are asked to bring their own plate. It makes the table colorful and cleanup easier.

The next course was a blend of delicate shiitake and oyster mushrooms from Driggs, Idaho’s Mountain Valley Mushrooms, sautéed summer squashes, and Riggers Clearwater Farms (Craigmont, Idaho) green chickpeas. The main course was rib-eye steaks from the Mead Ranch with Haderlie Farms green beans and crispy garlic scapes.

Dessert was simple and elegant. As the sun sank behind a nearby butte, servers brought out macerated apricots and black cherries—both from the Jackson Hole Farmers Market—accompanied by lavender-infused whipped cream on toasted pecan shortbread.

The story was similar the next year, 2011. Except it included 120 diners at Mead Ranch instead of seventy and Chef Richie Billingham of Jackson’s 43 North instead of Chef Drew. Niner Wines were again poured.

THIS JULY, Chef Joel Cox helms Jackson Hole’s OITF dinner, which will again be in a freshly mowed hay meadow at the Mead Ranch. Before arriving in the valley in the autumn of 2010 to open the new Aspens Market, where he runs the prepared food and butchery counters, Cox packed an amazing resume into a few years. He spent eight months in Panzano, Italy, studying butchering with Dario Cecchini, who runs his own shop and also travels the world stressing the importance of artisanal butchering and the use of the whole animal. The food blog Serious Eats called Cecchini “perhaps the most famous butcher in Italy.”

Back stateside, Cox worked at Johnathan Sundstrom’s Lark restaurant in Seattle and Kurtwood Farms on Vashon Island and participated in Brady Lowe’s COCHON 555. The latter, which travels to about a dozen cities, pairs five chefs with five locally produced heritage hogs and five local wineries. Each chef butchers and prepares a seventy-pound hog for two hundred patrons.

“Outstanding in the Field is right up my alley,” Cox says. “Dinners like these are what I enjoy doing and are my passion. I love putting people together that might not normally be together—creating a social atmosphere through food. When I can do that in a beautiful location and be part of local sourcing, well, it doesn’t get any better.” JH 122

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Toss the garlic scapes in 1 oz. of olive oil. Allow any excess oil to drain off, then spread the scapes over a hot grill. So that they char slightly on one side, do not move them for the first minute.

Using a large metal spatula, flip the scapes and cook for one more minute. Remove the scapes from the grill and cut into the same length as the green beans.

Heat a large sauté pan and add the remaining oil. Add the drained green beans and heat for three to five minutes. Add the grilled scapes and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper.

Squeeze lemon over the top to taste.

Chef Joel Cox’s Baby Beet Tartine with Teton Valley Creamery’s Sapphire Blue Cheese Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer 1 Persephone Bakery baguette, cut into ¼” slices 1 bunch local baby gold beets with tops 1 shallot, minced 1/3 – ½ lb. Sapphire Blue Cheese, cut into small wedges 3 T + ¼ c + 2 T extra virgin olive oil kosher salt 2 c water Preheat oven to 350°.

Beets: Wash beets well. Remove greens and rough-chop or tear into small pieces. Set aside. Place beets in an ovenproof dish.

Coat with ¼ c olive oil; add a few good pinches of kosher salt and mix. Add water and cover dish with foil. Bake until tender, approximately thirty minutes. Allow to cool. If necessary, peel beets then slice in half lengthwise.

Crostini: Brush bread slices with oil. Place on sheet tray and bake until golden brown, approximately nine minutes.

Greens: Heat a medium-size, deep-sided pot. Add remaining olive oil. Sauté minced shallot with washed beet greens until tender. Add a bit of water if needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drain any extra liquid from greens.

To assemble: Place a bit of shallot/greens on each crostini. Top each with one beet half and one cheese wedge. Arrange on platter. Enjoy!

FineDining Restaurant Group Jackson Hole Wyoming We’ve got you covered

Yeehaw! Uma

Thurman and Hilary Swank

Sustainability and sustenance go hand-in-hand at this new spot in Teton Village.

— Ski Magazine

frequent this eatery in Jackson Hole Wyoming.

3335 West Village Drive (307) 739-4100 www.jhosteria.com

— Us Weekly 2550 Moose Wilson Road (307)-739-0700 www.qjacksonhole.com

Dig into seasonal, natural

cuisine in

downtown Jackson.

— SKI 155 North Glenwood 307) 734-1633 www.thekitchenjacksonhole.com

...the seared

scallops at Rendezvous Bistro in Jackson Hole, WY, are some of the best I’ve ever had.

— Bon

Appétit 380 South Broadway (307) 739-1100 www.rendezvousbistro.net

Guests dine on mostly local and organic fare prepared by Bistro Catering.

— Martha Stewart Weddings

(307) 739-4682 www.bistrocatering.net

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dining out

Restaurant Blue Collar Group Dolce Ignight Grill Merry Piglets Sidewinders Tavern The Bunnery Café Bohéme Café Genevieve Cascade Restaurant and Bar The Dining Room at Shooting Star Fine Dining Restaurant Group The Kitchen Il Villaggio Osteria Q Roadhouse Rendezvous Bistro Four Seasons Resort Four Seasons Lobby Lounge Westbank Grill Gamefish Grand Teton Lodge Company Blue Heron Bar Jenny Lake Dining Room John Colter Cafe Court Mural Room Pioneer Grill Ranch House Great Harvest Bread Co. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Corbet’s Cabin Couloir The Deck Nick Wilson’s Rancher Cookout The Tin Can Cantina Local Lotus Café McDonald’s of Jackson Nani’s Cucina Italiana Nikai North Grille The Rose Silver Dollar Bar and Grill Snake River Brewing Company Snake River Grill Thai Me Up Terra Café Teton Pines Restaurant Teton Thai Trio Warbirds Café 124

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Location

(On Town Square C)

Phone

Jackson (C) Jackson Jackson (C) Jackson Jackson (C) Jackson Jackson (C) Teton Village Shooting Star

307-200-6071 $ $ 307-734-1997 307-733-2966 $/$$ 307-734-5466 $/$$ 307-734-0075 $ $ 307-733-5282 $ $ 307-732-1910 $ $ 307-732-6932 $$ $$ 307-739-3260 $$

Breakfast Lunch

Dinner $ $$$ $$ $$ $ $$ $$/$$$ $$/$$$ $$/$$$

Jackson 307-734-1633 $$$ Teton Village 307-739-4100 $/$$$ Teton Village Road 307-739-0700 $/$$ Jackson 307-739-1100 $/$$$ Teton Village Teton Village 307-732-5000 $$ Teton Village 307-732-5620 $ $$ $$$ Teton Village 307-732-6042 $ $ $$$ Teton National Park Jackson Lake Lodge 307-543-2811 $ $ Jenny Lake Lodge 307-733-4647 $ $ $$$ Colter Bay 307-543-2811 $ $ $ Jackson Lake Lodge 307-543-2811 $ $/$$ $$$ Jackson Lake Lodge 307-543-2811 $ $ $/$$ Colter Bay 307-543-2811 $ $ $$/$$$ Jackson (C) 307-734-8227 $ $ $ Teton Village Aerial Tram Summit 307-739-2688 $ $ Bridger Gondola Summit 307-739-2675 $$$ Bridger Gondola Summit 307-739-2675 $ Next to the Aerial Tram 307-739-2738 $ $ Saddlehorn Activity Center 307-739-2654 $$$ Base of Bridger Gondola $ $ Jackson (C) 307-201-1717 $ $/$$/$$$ Jackson 307-734-0882 $ $$ $$ Jackson 307-733-7444 $ $ $ Jackson 307-733-3888 $$/$$$ Jackson 307-734-6490 $$$ JH Golf & Tennis Club 307-733-7788 $/$$ $$/$$$ Jackson 307-733-1500

$ Jackson (C) 307-732-3939 $ $ $$ Jackson 307-739-2337 $/$$ $/$$ Jackson (C) 307-733-0557 $$$ Jackson 307-733-0005 $ $$ Hotel Terra 307-739-4025 $ $ Teton Village Road 307-733-1005 $ $$$ Teton Village 307-733-0022 $$ $$ Jackson 307-734-8038 $$/$$$ Driggs, ID 208-354-2550 $ $$$

Kid’s TakeCredit Cards Cocktails Menu Out

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Coffees, desserts & organic frozen yogurt

Continental American world cuisine

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Modern American cuisine in the heart of Jackson

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Fresh sashimi specialty rolls

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Sushi, steak, fresh fish & fresh squeezed cocktails Authentic Tex Mex grill Food, fun & games!

The bakery that’s a restaurant Great food - reasonable prices. Free Wi-Fi Serving inspired home cooked classics Gourmet, local slopeside, kids menu

Wood-oven-fired pizzas, housemade pasta Eclectic roadhouse fare with frequent live music Locals’ favorite!

Mountain steakhouse with signature side dishes AAA Four Diamond Award Panoramic Teton views Casual dining Mexican restaurant Panoramic Teton views 1950’s-style service Western atmosphere for the family Freshest and flavorful baked goods Top of the world waffles Contemporary fine dining at 9,095 ft.

Free gondola ride, casual dining Pub favorites & vibrant aprés ski mecca Covered wagon rides or dinner on horseback Authentic Mexican food and margaritas A modern American steakhouse Organic meats, vegan and gluten-free choices Great tastes, affordable choices Authentic regional Italian cuisine Jackson’s favorite sushi bar Stunning views, casual bistro fare Classically inspired cocktail lounge Authentic Jackson Hole landmark Award-winning brews and incredible food Locals’ choice for rustic elegance Reinventing downtown Jackson one beer at a time Fresh, local breakfast, lunch & coffee Spectacular setting, creative cuisine Outdoor patio and amazing views Contemporary American bistro fare New eclectic Western fare Average entrée; $= under $15, $$= $16-20, $$$= $21+

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Blue Collar

Restaurant Group

GRILL Jackson’s oldest Mexican Restaurant! fajitas, carne asada, enchiladas, 10 different sauces and full bar Voted Jackson’s best salsa!

Open Daily 11:30am 160 N Cache 307-733-2966 www.merrypiglets.com

Serving 10 gourmet grilled cheese and breakfast sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. Organic coffee is freshly roasted in-house. Locally created desserts and delicious organic frozen yogurt. Don’t miss our made-to-order donuts!

Ignight offers freshly squeezed juice cocktails and an amazing array of dishes to tempt your tastebuds.

Sushi, fresh fish, flatbreads, sliders and steaks

Bringing together a sports bar with great tasting food for the whole family. 40 tv’s, pizza, steaks, homemade burgers, 10 different salads, game room for the kids 30 draft beers and full bar!

Open Daily 160 N Cache 307-200-6071 www.dolcejh.com

Open Daily 5:00pm 945 W Broadway 307-734-1997 www.ignightjacksonhole.com

Open Daily 11:30am 945 W Broadway 307-734-5766 www.sidewinderstavern.com

The Bakery that’s a Restaurant Mon–Fri: 6:30 am–4 pm • Sat–Sun: 7 am–3 pm Call for evening hours, catering, special events

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Pastries • Beer & Wine www.bunnery.com 307-733-5474 • 130 North Cache 7 days a week Breakfast 7am - 11:30am Lunch 11:30 - 3pm • Dinner 5pm - 9pm WE PROUDLY BREW Bakery 7am - 9pm

STARBUCKS COFFEE

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• Serving fresh food and Organic Coffee • Lattes, Cappuccinos, Coffee Coolers, Smoothies, Shakes • Breakfast Burritos and Sandwiches • Sweet and Savory Crepes • Panini, Wraps, Soups and Salads • Grilled Sandwiches and more 1110 Maple Way 733-5282 www.cafebohemejh.com Free WiFi Gluten-free options available

Professional catering for any event | Est. 1993

Inspired Home Cooking Outstanding Menus & Teton Hospitality at its Finest!

Brunch Daily 9 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Happy Hour 3 - 5:30 Dinner Nightly 5:30 p.m.

William Boney

Owner & Executive Chef

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Located 1/2 block East of the Town Square 135 E. Broadway • 732-1910 • www.GenevieveJH.com

800-787-9178 208-787-2667 diningincateringinc.com

Flavors from around the world including American, Asian, Indian, Thai, & Latin. Organic meats, vegetarian, vegan & raw choices.

Entrées, appetizers, sandwiches, soups, pizzas & salads. Endless glutenfree choices. Full bar & house infused botanical cocktails. Bakery, smoothies, juice & tonic bar. Espresso & premium tea. Bakery, breakfast, lunch, dinner. Deck seating.

145 N. Glenwood St. Jackson, WY www.tetonlotuscafe.com • 307.734.0882

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McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole Fast, Affordable and On Your Way

NANI’S cucina italiana dal 1990

Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily

Free Wi-Fi

1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY 1 mile west of Town Square

307-733-7444

Regional Italian Cuisine at it’s Best! handmade pasta steaks • seafood • vegan wine & cocktail bar 242 N. Glenwood • nanis.com • 733-3888

Your Pub, Our Passion

nikai asian grill & sushi bar

225 north cache 307.734.6490 * www.nikaisushi.com reservations suggested 128

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FOOD SERVED 11:30am - 11:00pm $7 LUNCH 11:30am-3:00pm • HAPPY HOURS 4:00pm - 6:00pm 265 S. Millward • (307) 739-BEER (2337) www.snakeriverbrewing.com

THAI ME UP BREWERY Thai Food & Microbrews in a Casual Setting

Your table is waiting.

At Gamefish, you’ll enjoy our comfortable atmosphere and creative American cuisine, made with the finest local and regional ingredients. Our chef creates seasonal menus including free-range meats, smoked game, fish and house specialties, all highlighted by an award-winning wine list. We’re open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

SNAKERIVERLODGE.COM | 866.975.ROCK (7625)

Established in 2000.

Full Bar • Outdoor Dining Open 11:30am to Late

www.thaijh.com 75 East Pearl • (307) 733-0005 Located Downtown mention this add and receive 5% off your bill between 5 and 6

Owned and operated by local chefs with a passion for good food, Trio features a variety of cuisines in a relaxed An American Bistro atmosphere.

Dinner nightly at 5:30 Located off the Town Square at 45 S. Glenwood • Jackson Reservations: 307-734-8038 or www.bistrotrio.com SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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SOPHISTICATED MOUNTAIN CUISINE

Award-Winning Executive Chef Scott A. Rutter c.e.c., c.c.e. acf

spacious summer patio seating with heat lamps, a fire place and expansive views 7342 Granite Loop Road Teton Village 307-734-0022 • www.tetonthai.com Driggs, Idaho Location 208-787-8424

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Live Music & Happy Hour in the Bar Al Fresco Dining on Broadway Steps from the Town Square In Jackson’s Historic Wort Hotel |Broadway @ Glenwood 307.732.3939 | www.worthotel.com

Coming Soon!

Artisan crafted, distilled and bottled in Idaho, a super premium potato vodka equal to the finest spirits in the world.

Why drink an imported spirit when the best is made here in America?

Grand Teton Potato Vodka www.tetonvodka.com 130

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THE COEUR D’ALENE ART AUCTION Fine 19th and 20th Century Western and American Art

Alfred Jacob Miller (1810–1874) Throwing the Lasso watercolor, 10 × 17 inches estimate: $200,000–300,000

Chief Joseph (1840–1904) Chief Joseph’s Personal War Shirt beaded war shirt estimate: $800,000–1,200,000

Carl Rungius (1869–1959) Bighorn Ram bronze, 17 × 16 × 7 inches estimate: $150,000–250,000

JULY 21, 2012 THE SILVER LEGACY RESORT CASINO – RENO, NEVADA WWW.CDAARTAUCTION.COM THE COEUR D’ALENE ART AUCTION 8836 N. Hess Street, suite b Hayden, Id 83835 telEPHONE: 208-772–9009 fax: 208-772–8294 email: info@cdaartauction.com

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art scene

Up Close and Personal with Art The valley’s art scene is as vibrant as ever

Summer shows at Heather James Fine Art feature Bob Van Breda and also Robert Walker, whose carved acrylic on wood panel piece, Mothership, 62 x 70 in., is above.

BY NICOLE BURDICK

Seen through an animal’s eyes, the world looks much different than you might imagine. While a trip to Jackson Hole always includes a chance for wildlife viewing, an exhibit this summer at the National Museum of Wildlife Art by video naturalist Sam Easterson provides an intimate and completely new 132

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perspective—that of animals.

Easterson mounted tiny cameras on the heads of various critters. The results—an armadillo sniffing grass towering over his head, an alligator navigating a waterway, bison and ferrets investigating their natural habitat—play on seven flat screens at the NMWA starting May

26. Easterson’s is just one of many art experiences/events happening in the valley this summer and fall.

In its 25th anniversary year, the National Museum of Wildlife Art has quite a bit going on. A new three-quarter-mile Sculpture Trail, designed by Oakland, California-based landscape

architect Walter Hood, officially opens June 14 with the unveiling of Sandy Scott’s bronze, Presidential Eagle. The sleekly contemporary Isis by British sculptor Simon Gudgeon will also be installed this summer. In September, Buffalo Trail, a sixty-four-foot-long piece by Richard Loffler, will be installed over several days. Eventually, the Sculpture Trail will showcase thirty-some permanent and temporary works. “This is a project the museum has been thinking and talking about even before I came to work here,” says Adam Harris, the NMWA’s Curator of Art since 2000. “We’re taking the time to do it right.”

Moving inside the museum, the wildlife experience continues. Its permanent collection of more than 5,000 works includes lithographs by Audubon, more than thirty oils by Carl Rungius, immense wildlife portraits by Robert Bateman, and the entire Endangered Series of silk screens by Andy Warhol.

Drawing on Instinct combines Bob Kuhn pieces from the museum’s own permanent collection alongside Kuhn pieces on loan from donors to show the arc and expanse of Kuhn’s career and process.

Opening May 10, the show includes finished pieces, sketches from the masterworks, and a compendium of drawings.

Another museum exhibition has fun with wildlife art. Carl is a real-life chipmunk that lives around the museum.

Lynn Friess has written two books about Carl’s adventures—from training as a museum guide to solving a mystery. A final book is in the works. John Potter has done all of the illustrations. Carl: Original Illustrations by John Potter, up in the museum’s Wapiti Gallery starting June 16, showcases Potter’s lively illustrations and looks at how the words and images will come together in the third and final book.

On October 27, National Geographic Photographs of the American West opens simultaneously at the NMWA and ten of its Museums West partners. This exhibit includes work from the National Geographic archives from the earliest days of photography to the most recent.

In downtown Jackson, visual, performance, and literary arts converge at the Center for the Arts. Resident organization Dancers’ Workshop is one of the center’s most active groups. June 15 through 16, DW’s professional modern dance company, Contemporary Dance

AMY RINGHOLZ 2012

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Trailside Galleries hosts two one-man shows during the Fall Arts Festival: Ralph Oberg and Adam Smith.

Wyoming, presents performances combining modern dance with visual arts, video, poetry, and audience proximity … seating is on the stage for these shows, making it easier to appreciate the costumes, which are made locally. One costume was designed by visiting New York sculpture artist Michele Oka Donor.

This summer, DW also brings back New York City Ballet MOVES. August 3, 4 (evenings), and 5 (matinee and evening), NYCB MOVES brings some of its extraordinary classical repertory to the Center. The company’s leading dancers and orchestra musicians perform In the Night by Jerome Robbins, Red Angels by Ulysses Dove, Sonatine by George Balanchine, Zakouski by Peter Martins, and a new ballet set to music by Philip Glass and choreographed by NYCB dancer Justin Peck. The evenings of August 4 and 5, the show includes Sonatine and The Waltz Project choreographed by Peter Martins,

Ralph Oberg’s Mountain World show includes mountain landscapes such as Invocations on the Wind, 42 x 42 in., (left) and Morning Glory, 28 x 32 in., (right).

Moves by Jerome Robbins, and Herman Schmerman (Pas de Deux) by William Forsythe.

Elsewhere in the Center, Off Square Theatre Company performs in the Black Box Theater. God of Carnage plays in May. Come August, it’s The 39 Steps. September brings Godspell.

Another Center resident organization, the Jackson Hole Writers Conference, celebrates its 20th anniversary this summer. The conference, whose special guests this year include Anita Diamant and Naomi Shihab Nye, presents readings, workshops, panels, and live author interviews for three days beginning June 28.

The Art Association offers a number of ways

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to engage with art from classes in clay throwing, printmaking, or illustrated travel journaling to shows by members in the Art Association Gallery and Art Association Theater Gallery. Starting June 1, Michele Oka Donor’s work hangs in the Art Association Gallery. Donor’s figurative sculptures reflect her lifelong study of the natural world.

August 10 through September 21, artist Jenny Dowd has invited fellow sculpture and visual artists Ruth Boerefijn, Mayme Kratz, and Lindsey Glover to join her in Inhabiting the Art Association Gallery. The four have created installations that redefine space and challenge viewers. See the Center’s full schedule at jhcenterforthearts.com.

The Art Association doesn’t limit itself merely to events at the Center. Its two art fairs—July 20 through 22 and August 17 through 19 this summer—both at Miller Park, are among the summer’s most anticipated events. More than 170 artists from across the country show their fine and functional artwork, jewelry, and crafts. There’s also live music.

If you like the idea of strolling among art, on the third Thursday of each month some thirty members of the Jackson Hole Gallery Association open their doors and serve appetizers and wine during a gallery walk from 5 to 8 p.m.

Or walk around the galleries on your own. David Brookover Gallery has startling and vivid photography. Brookover’s new images for this summer focus on horses and the valley’s historic ranches.

Across the Town Square, Heather James Fine Art showcases two contemporary California artists this July and August: Robert Walker and Bob Van Breda. Legacy Gallery starts its season July 19 with an opening reception for a show of paintings of Native Americans by David Mann. The Mountain Man Show on August 9 celebrates the 200th anniversary of the discovery of South Pass.

On September 7, a show of Kyle Polzin’s oil still lifes goes up. Continuing a tradition, the gallery’s annual Wildlife and Sporting Art Show wraps up the season. It opens September 14 this year.

Trailside Galleries has two shows opening September 15. One highlights work by Adam Smith; the second presents new work by Ralph Oberg. The Oberg show, Mountain World—From the Himalaya to the Rockies, includes mountain landscapes, cultural scenes, and wildlife, all taken from Oberg’s own extensive travels. Smith unveils about ten new paintings of North American big game animals. The 6th Annual Jackson Hole Art Auction, a partnership between Trailside and Santa Fe’s Gerald Peters Gallery, is September 15.

Tuck Fauntleroy Photography

With surroundings this beautiful, one of the course’s greatest challenges will be your attention.

Public Welcome. With the Tetons as your backdrop, we invite you to

test your skills on this Robert Trent Jones II Championship golf course.

The North Grille Restaurant features fireside patio dining with unobstructed Teton views and innovative bistro fare. Serving lunch and dinner with weekly Chef Specials. For tee times or dining reservations, please phone 307-733-3111. www.jhgtc.com

36 years of inspiration at 6,000 feet

JEWELRY ORIGINALS Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole 125 N Cache • www.danshelley.com 307.733.2259 SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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“The Fete is our only allartist show of the summer,” says Diehl Gallery owner Mariam Diehl. This is the gallery’s eleventh year in Jackson.

As usual, Tayloe Piggott Gallery stands out this summer. Its show schedule includes five jewelry trunk shows and three contemporary art shows.

Celia Gerard and Tadaaki Kuwayama share the gallery in a show opening May 18. Both do highly abstract work. On July 12, another dual show goes up: James Castle’s soot and spit drawings, and graphite works by Susan York. The gallery wraps its season up with a show by Paul Villinski opening August 30. Villinski uses found materials to create butterflies.

The Fete is Diehl Gallery’s kickoff to the summer season, a benefit for the Art Association, and a gallerywide showcase. Almost every one of the gallery’s artists produces a new work for the show, which will be held June 30. On July 14, a show of work by Susan Goldsmith (resin and mixed media) and Simon Gudgeon (sculpture) opens to coincide with the unveiling of Gudgeon’s mon-

Legacy Gallery hosts a reception for David Mann on July 19.

Included in the oneman show is Shoshoni Ridge, 30 x 40 in., oil on canvas.

umental bronze sculpture, Isis, at the NMWA’s Sculpture Trail. Another joint show opens July 26 at the gallery. Monica Aiello’s paintings are inspired by the topography of distant planets distilled from NASA images. Husband Tyler Aiello often uses tools and machines he has made himself to create his metal sculptures. A Richard Painter show opens August 9. On September 27, Kollabs: Collaborative Works by Anke Schofield and Luis Garcia-Nerey opens.

Cooperative gallery CIAO is the place to find a wide variety of local art. Altamira Fine Art represents Fall Arts Festival 2012 featured artist Amy Ringholz. Dreamers Don’t Sleep, Ringholz’s FAF featured painting, will be on exhibit at the gallery during the festival.

And then there’s art that’s appeasing to the ears.

There’s live music almost every night of the week somewhere in the valley. At the Silver Dollar Bar, Bluegrass Tuesdays feature One Ton Pig; Friday

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and Saturday nights feature bands that inspire dancing. With swing dance lessons on Thursdays and live music from country to rock almost every night, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar is always a good call. In Teton Village, the Mangy Moose hosts nationally touring acts. Find its music calendar online. North of town, in Moose, Dornan’s Chuckwagon heats up with local and visiting acoustic musicians performing at the Hootenanny every Monday evening. And at the oldest building in town, the Jackson Hole Playhouse’s golden-age dinner theater features the musical comedy Cat Ballou this summer.

A night at Walk Festival Hall, at the base of Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village, is a unique Jackson Hole experience. For fifty-one years, some of the finest musicians in the world have come to the valley to play in the Grand Teton Music Festival Orchestra. The seven-week season begins July 4th with the annual Music in the Hole celebration. Once the season is under way, Tuesdays are a free opportunity to get “Inside the Music” with casual and entertaining concerts. Wednesday “Spotlight Concerts” offer an eclectic array of musicians and styles.

Thursday evenings are “Musicians’ Choice,” concerts touted as “friends making music with friends for the love of it.” Friday and Saturday evenings are the biggies: orchestra concerts featuring internationally renowned soloists. The season ends August 18. Also look for GTMF’s “Music in Nature.” This program presents free concerts in locations throughout Grand Teton National Park.

The summer art season goes out with a bang. The 28th Annual Fall Arts Festival (FAF) is September 6 through 16. The FAF includes the Western Design Conference, a QuickDraw, gallery shows and openings, ranch tours, a Cowboy Jubilee, artist studio tours, the Western Visions Miniatures & More Show & Sale, food events, and outdoor art fairs.

Hosted by Teton Home and Living Magazine, the 20th Annual Western Design Conference invites the public to join artists, scholars, collectors, interior designers, architects, and fashion designers whose works show the most innovative functional and fashionable western art. On September 6, kick back for a free lecture from bootmaker Lisa Sorrell held at the Center for the Arts. Later that evening, the Gala Event begins with a live Jewelry Show followed by the Design Excellence Awards Ceremony and Fashion Show. The three-day WDC Exhibit + Sale is at Snow King Resort. Find detailed information at westerndesignconference.com.

Two FAF events—Takin’ It to the Streets and Taste of the Tetons—merge September 9 to bring forty local artists and chefs together on the Town Square. Go ahead and eat up the final artistic bounty of the summer season. JH

5 generations of dependable, honest, reliable service

• 165 N Center street (Next to Scandia Down) • Jackson Hole • Complimentary domestic shipping

307-733-3388 • info@herizjh.com

HAIRBALL HOTEL VICTOR, IDAHO

Offering a unique home style, no cage boarding environment for canine clientele.

TLC, bowls, beds, leashes, tennis balls, Kong ball, and other socially accepted group toys provided.

www.hairballhotel.com Russ Herman • 44 Depot Way Victor, Idaho • (208) 787-2806 • (208) 313-2441 SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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galleries

BY NATURE GALLERY

ALTERMANN GALLERIES & AUCTIONEERS info@altermann.com www.altermann.com Specializing in American Western, Sporting and Wildlife art. 2012 Auction schedule Santa Fe, August 11. Consignment deadline May 15. Dallas, October 18. Consignment deadline August 15. Santa Fe, November 18. Consignment deadline September 15.

Santa Fe and Scottsdale Locations.

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86 East Broadway Jackson, WY PH: 307-200-6060 jacksonhole@bynaturegallery.com www.bynaturegallery.com Specializing in the finest quality fossil, mineral, and meteorite specimens from around the world. Enjoy our collection of locally found Wyoming fossils. Our collection consists of the rarest dinosaur fossils, jewelry, petrified wood, and an extensive kids corner. Our newly added “break your own geode machine” is fun for all ages. Conveniently located next to Hagan Das ice cream.

DIEHL GALLERY 155 W. Broadway PO Box 4860, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-0905 info@diehlgallery.com www.diehlgallery.com KOLLABS artists Luis Garcia-Nerey and Anke Schofield explore questions on the human construct within the forest and its inhabitants. They present a serious and provocative series of collaborative paintings and installations that create a sense of wonder, evoking questions on, and of, the interaction between human life and the forest environment. Stop by Diehl Gallery to see our collection of KOLLABS works.

HINES GOLDSMITHS 80 Center Street on the Town Square Jackson, WY 83001 PH: 307-733-5599 www.hinesgold.com Since 1970 Hines Goldsmiths has been Jackson's premier fine art jewelry gallery. A diverse collection features award winning jewelry artists using unique fine collectible gemstones and diamonds, photography from local artists, and fine crystal and glass barware hand etched portraying the Tetons, the Bucking Bronco, and wildlife of Jackson Hole. We are the original designers of the famed Teton jewelry collection ranging from high-end pave diamonds pieces to affordable silver charms.

MANGELSEN images of nature Gallery 170 North Cache, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-9752 www.mangelsen.com Discover the award winning images of Thomas D. Mangelsen, one of the world’s premier nature photographers. Mangelsen has traveled throughout the natural world for over 30 years observing and photographing a diversity of ecosystems and wildlife from all seven continents.

Mangelsen’s limited edition prints have been collected by thousands around the world through his Mangelsen—Images of Nature Galleries.

Bob Kuhn Drawing on Instinct

Robert Kuhn, King of the Road—detail, 1982. National Museum of Wildlife Art Collection. © Estate of Robert Kuhn.

To celebrate our 25th Anniversary, the Museum presents amazing paintings and sketches by renowned wildlife artist Bob Kuhn.

Exhibit Open May 10 – August 19, 2012

Open Daily • (307) 733-5771 • WildlifeArt.org

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At Home with Nature TAYLOE PIGGOTT GALLERY

By Nature Gallery minerals • fossils • jewelry • home decor • gifts 86 East Broadway (next to Haagen-Dazs) www.bynaturegallery.com • jacksonhole@bynaturegallery.com

307-200-6060 BEAVER CREEK LOCATION Gerald R. Ford Hall, 45W Thomas Place, PO Box 8934, Beaver Creek, CO 81620, 970-949-1805

62 South Glenwood Street Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-0555 www.tayloepiggottgallery.com TAYLOE PIGGOTT GALLERY specializes in contemporary art, exhibiting a range of media with a focus on painting, mixed media works, and sculpture. The gallery is committed to promoting emerging as well as nationally and internationally renowned artists. As one of the region’s leading contemporary art galleries, our vision is to enrich Jackson’s existing cultural dialogue while furthering both the appreciation for and acquisition of new and secondary market works. Our director is available for private art consultations and art collection management.

trailside galleries 130 East Broadway, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-3186 www.trailsidegalleries.com Established in Jackson, Wyoming in 1963, Trailside Galleries’ 15,000 square foot gallery space provides visitors and collectors with a stimulating and esthetically pleasing art experience as it showcases an impressive collection of paintings, sculpture and unique western furniture by many of the county’s leading fine artists.

The gallery is also home to the offices of its auction department, the Jackson Hole Art Auction which is held every September at the Center for the Arts.

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West Lives ON Traditional & Contemporary Galleries 55 & 75 N. Glenwood, Jackson, WY PH: 307-734-2888 www.westliveson.com Discover an extraordinary collection of traditional and contemporary Western art. Both galleries display works depicting the rich heritage of the American West featuring Western, wildlife and landscape art in original oils, acrylics, watercolors and bronze. Come see these impressive pieces from over 100 regional and national artists. Our knowledgeable staff will assist you in finding that special piece you are looking for in our vast collection, ranging in style, mediums and price range. Visit both galleries on Glenwood St. across from the Wort Hotel.

Experience the wonder of nature through the lens of legendary photographer Thomas D. Mangelsen.

170 North Cache | Jackson, WY | 307-733-9752 1/2 block north of the town square | 888-238-0177 LI M IT ED EDITION & A RTIST PROOF PR IN TS

wyoming gallery Upstairs Jack Dennis’ Outdoor Shop on the Town Square Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-7548 wyominggallery@gmail.com www.jdwyominggallery.com Wyoming Gallery is located on the Town Square upstairs in the Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop, 50 East Broadway. Offering the finest in landscape, wildlife and sporting art, we feature local and national artist in a variety of mediums. Our gift gallery offers home accessories including furniture, books, frames, crystal and much more.

BOOK S | C A LENDA R S | A RT C A R DS |

www.mangelsen.com

“Our favorite knives” Savuer Test Kitchen “Knife Art” Fine Cooking

On the corner of Deloney and Center St on the Jackson Town Square newwestknifeworks.com

307 733 4193 Toll Free 877 258 0100 SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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mercantile

Lodging Hotels

MetWest Terra: Hotel Terra & Teton Mountain Lodge Where luxury comes naturally, Hotel Terra is a 4-diamond, eco-hotel. Enjoy breakfast/lunch at Terra Café or spoil yourself at Chill Spa. (800) 631-6281, hotelterrajacksonhole.com. Teton Mountain Lodge is the perfect vacation base camp. Our 4-diamond lodge is home to Solitude Spa and Cascade Restaurant – Chef Kevin Humphrey’s “Best Executive Chef” in JH, 4 years in a row. (800) 631-6271, tetonlodge.com.

Signal Mountain Lodge Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, we provide the only lakefront accommodations on Jackson Lake. Stay amidst the beauty of the Teton Range with full resort amenities in a variety of lodging accommodations from rustic cabins to suite style units with kitchenettes. Amenities include float trips, guided lake fishing, boat rentals, camping, shopping and full service dining.

Signalmtnlodge.com or (307) 543-2831.

The Lodge at Jackson Hole Situated in the heart of Jackson, just blocks from Town Square, this premier family-friendly hotel is known for its warm western hospitality. Explore and experience Wyoming’s Wild West in comfort and style, with the convenience of the historic town of Jackson and the Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks just minutes away. The Lodge features complimentary breakfast, free wireless internet, indoor/outdoor heated pool and sauna. 80 Scott Lane. Jackson, WY 83002. (307) 739-9703 or (800) 458-3866. LodgeatJH.com.

The Rustic Inn at Jackson Hole Creekside Resort & Spa A premier luxury resort in the heart of the great American West. Located on seven lush acres adjacent to the National Elk Refuge and just a few blocks from Jackson’s lively Town Square, the Rustic Inn welcomes guests with warm western hospitality. Outdoor enthusiasts and hedonists alike delight in the lavishly appointed historic rooms and luxury cabins, state of the art amenities, revitalizing spa, innovative cuisine, year-round activities and idyllic setting. (307) 733-2357. RusticInnatJH.com.

The Virginian Lodge 170 rooms and suites with Jacuzzi tubs in a western setting. Experience such amenities as a saloon, restaurant, liquor store, hot tub and RV Park. The Convention Center accommodates up to 370 people. 750 West Broadway. (800) 2624999 or (307) 733-2792.

Resorts

Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole Located at the gateway to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, the resort offers a great base for exploring the region. In the winter time enjoy ski-in/ski-out luxury at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort with 142

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156 guest rooms, suites and private residences.

Professional meeting services with the largest meeting and banquet space in Jackson Hole.

Relax in any one of our restaurants while dining on the freshest regional cuisine. (307) 732-5000 or fourseasons.com/jacksonhole.

Grand Teton Lodge Company Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, our many lodging and dining options, as well as endless activities, will add memories to your Jackson Hole vacation experience. Treat yourself to the rustic elegance of Jenny Lake Lodge, our Four Diamond property featuring private cabins tucked amongst the pines.

Jackson Lake Lodge, our full-service resort, features 60-foot picture windows framing the Tetons. Guest facilities include restaurants, gift shops, a swimming pool and activities including wild and scenic river rafting and horseback riding. If you’re looking for outdoor adventure, you’ll find Colter Bay Village on the shores of Jackson Lake to be the ideal location.

Accommodations range from cabins to an RV Park, along with restaurants, a grocery store, launderette and showers. For information, (307) 543-2811. gtlc.com/jm.

Vacation Rentals

Rendezvous Mountain Rentals & Property Management Specializing in short-term vacation rentals at Teton Village, the Aspens and Teton Pines.

We offer over 40 years of combined property management experience in Jackson. Our only business is property management and we are your direct connection to great homes and condominiums. Locally owned and operated, conveniently located on the Teton Village Road across from the Aspens. (307) 739-9050, (866) 864-0119 or rmrentals.com.

The Clear Creek Group The Clear Creek Group provides caretaking and rental services for private properties in Jackson Hole, from fire lit log cabins to grand mountain estates. Guests enjoy a luxury hotel experience in an exceptional private home, while homeowners simply relax, and reap the rewards. In a word, the very best of Jackson Hole. The Clear Creek Group, (307) 732-3400,120 West Pearl Avenue, Jackson WY 83001. theclearcreekgroup.com.

Activities 2012 Fall Arts Festival Join us this year in celebrating the 28th annual Fall Arts Festival, September 6-16, 2012 when spectacular landscape and abundant wildlife unite to create a perfect setting to celebrate the Arts! The Fall Arts Festival has become the premier cultural event of Jackson Hole and attracts hundreds of nationally and internationally acclaimed artists that embody the spirit of the West. Visitors will experience the visual, performing and culinary arts showcasing the diversity of our region through wildlife, landscape and contemporary pieces. www.jacksonholechamber.com. For additional information, please contact Maureen Murphy at the Jackson Hole Chamber, (307) 733-3316.

Grand Teton Lodge Company Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, our many lodging and dining options, as well as endless activities, will add memories to your Jackson Hole vacation experience. Treat

yourself to the rustic elegance of Jenny Lake Lodge, our Four Diamond property featuring private cabins tucked amongst the pines.

Jackson Lake Lodge, our full-service resort, features 60-foot picture windows framing the Tetons. Guest facilities include restaurants, gift shops, a swimming pool and activities including wild and scenic river rafting and horseback riding. If you’re looking for outdoor adventure, you’ll find Colter Bay Village on the shores of Jackson Lake to be the ideal location.

Accommodations range from cabins to an RV Park, along with restaurants, a grocery store, launderette and showers. For information, (307) 543-2811. gtlc.com/jm.

Grand Teton Music Festival For over 50 years, the Grand Teton Music Festival has showcased musicians from the nation’s top ensembles in seven weeks of orchestra and chamber music concerts in Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village. Internationally acclaimed conductor Donald Runnicles leads this great American festival, and the orchestra is joined weekly by the world’s top guest soloists and conductors. Eclectic offerings of jazz, bluegrass and pop, as well as free community and family events, round out the summer schedule. Grand Teton Music Festival 2012 Summer Season: July 4 - August 18. For tickets and information: (307) 733-1128 or gtmf.org.

Jack Dennis Fishing Trips Fly fishing, guided fishing and fly fishing lessons for over 44 years, Jack Dennis Fishing Trips have guided anglers from around the world, from presidents to movie stars to anyone who loves to cast a fly. Recognized in 2003 by Outside Magazine in their one time “best of the best” issue as the best fly-fishing guide operation in the world. A guiding staff that averages 20 years experience and have literally fished and guided in every fly-fishing destination in the world. As Grand Teton National Park’s first fishing concessionaire, our operation is the largest in Wyoming and literally guides on all the waters in our region including Yellowstone Park. Full-day, half day, both walk in and float fishing experiences. For 25 years we’ve operated a fly-fishing school at Teton Pines where we have taught our fly-fishing lessons and introduce literally thousands of people to the field of fly-fishing. We are simply the best! Come experience a Jack Dennis fly-fishing trip. Visit us online at www.jackdennisfishingtrips.com.

Jackson Hole Shooting Experience Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, come have a BLAST as we focus on safety, education and FUN! We provide year-round classes (NRA’s Basic Pistol, Rifle and Shotgun, and Personal Protection Courses; private Defensive Pistol instruction; reloading classes and more) and customized private Luxury Entertainment Shooting Experiences for individuals, groups, wedding parties, family retreats and corporate events!

Our 25 gun ‘Multi-Gun Pistol and Rifle Experience’ can’t be missed! ShootinJH.com or (307) 690-7921.

Logan, Utah Logan, Utah, is famous for outdoor adventures, hands-on heritage experiences, and performing and fine arts. Visit American West Heritage Center’s 160 acres of living history or enjoy the Cache Valley Food Tour to sample our famous fare. Logan is home to Utah State University, art galleries,

specialty shops, Mormon pioneer architecture, the world-renowned Utah Festival Opera and Musical Theatre, and the 1923 Ellen Eccles Theatre.

Escape to this high mountain valley for great family fun. www.visitologanutah.com.

Signal Mountain Lodge Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, we provide the only lakefront accommodations on Jackson Lake. Stay amidst the beauty of the Teton range with full resort amenities in a variety of lodging accommodations from rustic cabins to suite style units with kitchenettes. Amenities include float trips, guided lake fishing, boat rentals, camping, shopping and full service dining. Signalmtnlodge.com or (307) 543-2831.

UFOMT Utah Festival Opera and Musical Theatre in Logan, Utah, presents top performers from Broadway and opera stages under one roof July 11 - Aug 11, 2012. Five weeks, eleven productions, and thirty-eight performances. My Fair Lady * Faust* Kiss Me Kate * Tosca. Enjoy special concerts, meet the stars, and take classes and backstage tours. www.utahfestival.org.

Ski Resorts

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Jackson Hole Mountain Resort located in Teton Village is an official southern gateway to Grand Teton National Park. Located just one mile from the park, Teton Village has tons of outdoor activities as well as being home to the famous Jackson Hole Aerial Tram (Open May 26 September 30, 2012). Explore fun hiking and the new Jackson Hole Downhill Bike Park. www. jacksonhole.com or (307) 739-2654 for details.

Moonlight Basin Ski Resort Moonlight Basin ski resort is located in Big Sky, Montana, just 18 miles from Yellowstone National Park. Skiers and snowboarders of all levels will find plenty of groomed runs, deep powder, moguls and a terrain park as well as lessons from our expert staff. Combined, Moonlight Basin and Big Sky Resort represent the biggest skiing in America, racking up a total of 5,532 skiable acres. Year-round lodging options at Moonlight Basin include luxury ski chalets, cabins and custom homes with real estate ownership opportunities. Other amenities include a full service spa, a Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course and a wide variety of authentic Montana activities, which make for the perfect family vacation. Discover Moonlight Basin, an un-crowded, world class resort. Learn more - moonlightbasin.com.

Wildlife Viewing

EcoTour Adventures Amazing wildlife viewing and park tours through Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.

Join us for an educational experience that just might be the highlight of your vacation. We offer half-day, full-day, and multi-day options. Small group tours with one of our professional guides assure your desired experience. Jackson’s green and sustainable tour company. Explore with us year-round! Top rated on TripAdvisor.com. (307) 690-9533. jhecotouradventures.com.

Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools You are invited to join a professional biologist in a comfortable safari-style vehicle for a fun, ethical and educational wildlife viewing experience your

family will never forget! Learn about the natural and cultural history of the area with a non-profit organization that has been operating in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks for over forty years. Expeditions depart daily, year-round and vary in length from four hours to multiple days. Private and custom expeditions also available. Reserve your expedition today (307) 733-2623 or wildlifeexpeditions.org.

Golf and Tennis 3 Creek Ranch Admittedly, the world-class Rees Jones golf course is one of the reasons that first attracted many of 3 Creek Ranch’s members to the club and community. But it is the bevy of “other” amenities that have kept them coming back. In addition to the championship golf course and state-of-the art teaching facility and practice area, 3 Creek Ranch boasts two clay tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness center, and extensive summer camp program for kids. And that’s just in the summer.

When the snow starts to fly, 3 Creek adds a skating rink and world-class groomed track for Nordic skiing. For membership information, contact Director of Membership Sales, Mike Connaughton, at (307) 732-8920 or via email at mconnaughton@3creekranch-jh.com.

Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis Club Open to the public, this 18-hole Robert Trent Jones II golf course is consistently ranked as the top course in Wyoming. Bordering Grand Teton National Park, the course features unobstructed Teton views, complete golf and tennis pro shops with professional lessons, and the North Grille restaurant. Enjoy lunch or dinner on our casual fireside patio overlooking the course, or in the casual but sophisticated restaurant. Call (307) 733-3111 for reservations or tee times, or visit jhgtc.com.

A.J. DeRosa’s Wooden Boat River Tours private river tour experts since 1978

732-BOAT (2628) www.woodboattours.com

Teton Pines Country Club & Resort Established in 1987, Teton Pines is consistently rated among the world’s finest mountain golf facilities. More than just a spectacular Arnold Palmer Signature Course, Teton Pines also offers year-round tennis, cross-country skiing, fly fishing, lodging, wedding and banquet services and dining at The Pines Restaurant - highly rated by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler magazine.

(800) 238-2223. tetonpines.com.

Museums

Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum Museum exhibitions display the history of Jackson Hole, trappers, dude ranchers, homesteaders, adventurers and characters. The historical society features a library of Western Americana, research center with archival and biographical data, photograph archives, map collection, oral history collection, and manuscript archives. 225 North Cache, (307) 7332414, jacksonholehistory.org.

National Museum of Wildlife Art Connect with wildlife and the natural world.

Featuring a NEW outdoor sculpture trail with major installations, permanent collection of more than 5,000 items, stunning architecture, 14 galleries, Museum Shop, Library, Café and Children’s Discovery Gallery, the National Museum of Wildlife Art is not to be missed.

With permanent and changing exhibitions from around the world, programming and special events for all ages, there’s always a new reason SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Discover the

CHARACTER & CHARACTERS

of the Tetons

to experience your museum in Jackson Hole. For information about exhibitions and events, visit us online at WildlifeArt.org. Open daily (9am - 5pm during summer; off-season: 9am - 5pm Mon-Sat; 11am - 5pm Sun) overlooking the National Elk Refuge in Jackson, WY. (307) 733-5771 or tollfree (800) 313-9553.

Artists

Brit West Beautiful vintage saddle leather, American turquoise, and sterling silver, what could be better? 1800’s driving reins and old retired cowboy saddle leather create the back drop of our one of a kind cuffs, hatbands, hats, and belts. Brit West participates in 3 Jackson summer shows and shares our gallery of unique work at www.britwest.net. Made in the USA, better yet, made in Wyoming!

Art Advisory

Through the region’s leading lifestyle magazines

Camille Obering Art Advisory A full-service art advisory business located in Jackson Hole, WY and New York, NY. We assist new and experienced collectors and businesses to buy and sell artwork and we offer collection management services. In addition, COAA offers curatorial services. For more information, visit www.camilleobering.com or contact (917) 617-1207 or camille@camilleobering.com.

Art Auctions

Coeur d’Alene Art Auction The 26th Annual Coeur d’Alene Art Auction will be held July 21, 2012 at the Silver Legacy Resort in Reno, Nevada. Coeur d’ Alene is the largest auction of its kind in the country with over $200 million in sales over the last ten years. The auction specializes in period Western American paintings and sculpture from 1880-1940 along with a very select group of contemporary artists. The 2012 sale will feature major works by Charles M. Russell, Maynard Dixon, Frederic Remington, Albert Bierstadt, Bob Kuhn, and others. Of particular note will be the sale of the Dalzell Collection of paintings

by Edward Borein. Annual catalog subscriptions are $60 and the full catalog is available online.

Phone, absentee, and live online bidding may be arranged. For more information about purchasing from or consigning to the auction please call (208) 772.9009 or www.cdaartauction.com.

Shopping

Local daily news, current events, insightful features, hot topics in the community, business listings, dining and much more.

Log on and explore!

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Boot Barn Take home the real. The wild. The West. From boots and jeans to shirts, hats and accessories, you’ll find everything you want and everything you need at Boot Barn. Boot Barn has the largest selection of western and work apparel and boots including Wrangler, Lucchese, Old Gringo, Tony Lama, Stetson and more. At the lowest prices, guaranteed. Visit Boot Barn at 840 West Broadway in Jackson or call (307) 733-0247, Bootbarn.com.

DanShelley Jewelers DanShelley was established in 1976. Dan has a passion for design and creating uniquely beautiful jewelry. After 36 years, he still has a constant desire to design and create. Dan would like to invite everyone to visit his gallery and experience jewelry like they have never seen before. Located in downtown Jackson at Gaslight Alley on the corner of Cache and Deloney Streets. www.danshelley.com, info@danshelley. com, (307) 733-2259.

Heriz Rug Gallery Jackson’s premier rug gallery. Extraordinary selection of fine, tribal, nomadic, western, silk/wool blends &and antique rugs in the intermountain region. Our rugs are handmade by master weavers with natural dyes and are one-of-a-kind pieces. We buy, sell, trade, clean and repair. Also featuring exotic furniture. Honest and reliable service every day. Complimentary shipping within U.S. 165 North Center Street.

(307) 733-3388.

Hines Goldsmiths Jackson’s premier jewelers since 1970. Exclusive designers of the famous Teton pendants, rings, charms and earrings, as well as Elk Ivory jewelry and Wyoming Bucking Bronco jewelry, all available in gold or silver with diamonds and fine gems. We also feature Jackson’s largest selection of gold and silver charms and unique charm wheels depicting our local wildlife and sporting activities. Fine crystal and glass barware portray the Tetons, the Bucking Bronco, and wildlife of Jackson Hole. We proudly feature designing jeweler Patrick Murphy and many others using fine collectible gemstones. 80 Center Street on the Jackson Town Square, (307) 733-5599, hinesgold.com.

Jack Dennis Outdoors Shop Locally owned and operated for over 40 years, Jack Dennis Outdoors Shop, on the Town Square, is Jackson’s premier outdoor lifestyle shop. We offer outdoor clothing, skiing, fishing, camping, hunting, a gallery and gift shop. Check out our North Face Summit Shop. Town Square location, (307) 733-3270.

Jackson Bootlegger Offering a unique shopping experience, we carry an extensive selection of footwear from lines such as Lucchese, Ugg, and Dansko, as well as accessories from George, Gina and Lucy and Hobo International. We are located on the south side of Town Square. Call (307) 733-6207 or visit thebootlegger.com.

Kismet Rug Gallery Known for fine masterpieces, antique rugs, outstanding contemporary and western rugs.

We have been serving the world as a major wholesaler for over 200 years. Extensive collections of Herizes, Serapies, Kilims, Sultanabads, Gashgaies, Caucasians, Kashans, Kermans, Qums, Tabrizes, Sarouks, Bijars and turn-of-century tribal pieces. We also specialize in hard-to-find oversized rugs and offer professional hand washing, padding and complete restoration. Open 10 - 6pm, Mon Sat. One block off the Town Square at 140 East Broadway. kismetrugs.com, info@kismetrugs. com, (307) 739-8984.

Lowrider Board Shop Jackson Hole snowboarders bring you highend demo’s and rentals, Grindrite tuning, and knowledgeable sales assistance. Located next to Pepi’s in the Olympic Plaza. Lowriderboardshop. com. (307) 733-4505.

MD Nursery - Gift Shop, Greenhouse& Garden Café At MD Nursery we are more than just a greenhouse. Our gift shop offers a wide variety of home décor, antiques, unique gifts, kid’s toys and outdoor furniture. We are conveniently located on Highway 33 in Driggs, Idaho, and just 30 minutes from Jackson, Wyoming. If you are looking for something different to do stop

by our shop and have lunch at the Thyme Out Café. MD also provides a full-service florist for weddings, parties and funerals. Winter hours are 8am - 6pm Monday through Saturday. (208) 354-8816, mdlandscapinginc.com.

New West KnifeWorks Based in Jackson Hole, WY. The world’s finest kitchen cutlery made sustainably in the USA. Super high performance with an artistic flair. Kitchen knives, steak and kitchen sets, accessories and more. “Our Favorite Knives” Savuer Magazine. Located on the Jackson Town Square on the corner of Deloney and Center Street. (877) 258-0100, newwestknifeworks.com.

Pepi Stiegler Sports Experienced, knowledgeable staff offers precision custom boot fitting, world class ski tuning, with outstanding customer service. Exceptional brands, express first-rate rentals and a huge selection of brand name skis, boots, poles, outerwear, helmets, goggles and accessories. Bicycle rentals. Pepistieglers.com.

Pepi’s Olympic Center, (307) 733-4505 or Pepi’s at the Alpenhof, (307) 733-6838.

Rock Lobster Lifestyle Boutique Located at 36 East Broadway on the Jackson Town Square. “Where classic and timeless luxury meet in the mountains.” Mens casual and dress wear: W.Kleinberg, Peter Millar, Scotch and Soda, Barbour, Southern Tide, Scott Barber, Bill’s Khaki’s, Smather’s and Branson, Bird Dog Bay. Women’s apparel swim to cocktail dresses: Shoshanna, Henry and Belle Jeans, Barbour, Lilly Pulitzer, Marc Cain. Baby: Kristaben, CZ Baby, Barbour, Lilly Pulitzer, Little Giraffe. Gift and home: Picnic by Ascot, Bella Notte Lenin’s Gmundner, Vagabond House, Boatman Geller, Laundress, Tara Wilson. Open daily Mon - Sat 10:00 – 6:00pm, Sunday 12:00 - 5:00pm (inseason later closures). (307) 201-1348.

Rodeo A stunning, luxury resort boutique at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort offering soft cashmere, premium denims, unique jewelry, and a variety of accessories. Rodeo features brands such as Moncler, Allude, JBrand, Golden Goose, Henry Cuir, Zero + Maria Conejo, and many more. Located at Hotel Terra in Teton Village. (307) 733-7887, rodeojh.com.

Ruby Ranch A Wyoming-inspired boutique with collectible treasures such as artisan jewelry, interesting bags, cashmere scarves, distinctive belt buckles and other special pieces for both men and women. Located on the spa level of the Four Seasons Resort, Jackson Hole, 7680 Granite Loop Road in Teton Village, WY. (307) 732-5612.

Terra and Terra Tots Everyday favorites for women, men and children newborn to ten. Find an expertly curated selection from contemporary labels such as Calypso, James Perse, Milly, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Mother, Current/Elliott, Tucker, Vince, TOMS and so much more! Located on the Jackson Town Square, open daily. 105 E. Broadway, (307) 734-0067, www.terrajh.com.

Thoenig’s A family-owned and operated business for over forty years, carrying a unique variety of watches including Casio, Timex, Swatch, Pulsar, Seiko, Mondaine, Victorinox Swiss Army, Luminox,

The Jackson Bootlegger

36 East Broadway Jackson, WY 83001 On the Square www.thebootlegger.com (307) 733-6207

Jackson Hole’s Finest selection of Homes, Cabins and Condominiums in Teton Village and the Aspens.

More room, more privacy and less money than most hotels.

With over 40 years of combined lodging expertise, Rendezvous Mountain Rentals is the ideal partner for your next Jackson Hole vacation.

866.864.0119 www.rmrentals.com SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Tag Heuer, Breitling, Omega and Ebel. Our diverse jewelry selections include something for everyone. We have sterling silver, turquoise, titanium, tungsten carbide, 14k and 18K gold, and platinum items. We carry beautiful local items such as our Teton pendants, charms, earrings and cufflinks, Elk Ivory jewelry and a large selection of Wyoming jade, as well as an exciting collection from our talented local artist, Ingrid Webber. We also carry semi precious and precious stones and pearls. Summer hours: Mon - Fri 9 to 6. Call (307) 733-4916, email sales@thoenigs.com. 125 W. Deloney, half-block off the Town Square.

Twenty Two Home Twenty Two Home is a refined home and lifestyle boutique that showcases beautifully curated pieces from a mix of vintage and contemporary styles. The store offers an inspired and sophisticated collection that evokes both elegance and function. Full-service interior design services also available. 45 East Deloney Avenue, Jackson, WY, Phone (307) 733-9922, Fax (307)733-9924, www.twentytwohome.com.

Vom Fass The Vom Fass concept is based on the simple European tradition of sampling wares prior to purchase. We are proud to offer tastes of our wide selection of products, ranging from artisanal oils, vinegars and spices to exclusive Scotches and whiskeys, fine brandies and other unique spirits and liqueurs to carefully selected wines.

60 E. Broadway (under the Snake River Grill), Jackson, WY 83001. (307) 734-1535.

Wool & Whiskey Located on the Village Commons, next to the Mangy Moose. Wool & Whiskey is a men’s mercantile shop with a fully stocked whiskey bar. Shop for men’s wear and accessories with a modern western twist. Stop by from 4 - 6pm for daily happy hour specials. Open daily, (307) 732-4080.

Dining Cascade Restaurant & Bar – Voted gold for “Best Chef” in JH Weekly’s “Best of JH,” Chef Kevin Humphrey’s fresh ingredients and imaginative menu offers wonderful options. Enjoy lunch or a cocktail on our newly remodeled terrace, or inside at the bar or dining room. Serving breakfast, lunch dinner and kids menu. Located inside Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa (307) 7326932, opentable.com or tetonlodge.com.

Couloir Located at the summit of the Bridger Gondola at 9,095’, Couloir is Teton Village’s most unique dining experience. The menu features American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots that highlight seasonal dishes with fresh, organic and local flavors. Dinner served Sunday - Friday nights, June 18 - September 14 (closed Saturdays). Reservations recommended. Available for private groups and events. (307) 739-2675 or opentable.com.

Dolce Featuring ten different gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, hand roasted coffees, locally created desserts and delicious organic frozen yogurt. Dolce is sure to leave you with a smile as you indulge in one of the delectable treats available. Specializing in hot donuts made to 146

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order. Breakfast served all day and add an egg to any grilled cheese sandwich and turn it into a breakfast sandwich. Also serving breakfast tacos.

Located right off the Town Square on 170 North Cache Street. (307) 200-6071. dolcejh.com.

Ignight Grill Featuring a modern day, classy interior with water walls and a lighted bar. Specializing in fresh fish, sushi, flatbreads, seasonal salads, locally raised beef for our homemade burgers, steaks and unique sandwiches. Sample our specialty drinks created just for Ignight by a professional mixologist using only freshsqueezed juices; or, try a locally brewed draft beer. Choose your favorite bottle of wine from our wine shop to accompany your entree with no corkage fee, an exceptional deal. Open daily at 5pm. Located at 945 W. Broadway right below Sidewinders. (307) 734-1997. ignightjacksonhole.com.

Il Villaggio Osteria Italian Cuisine and Wine Bar. Inside Hotel Terra at Teton Village. Open nightly at 5:30. For reservations call (307) 739-4100, jhosteria.com, @jhOsteria.

Lobby Lounge at Four Seasons Resort The Lobby Lounge is an intimate and comfortable bar and restaurant with a sleek Western look featuring great views of the Rendezvous Mountain. Our creative sushi chefs offer fresh sashimi, nigiri, maki, temaki and specialty rolls in peak summer and ski season. Bar bites and plates for the whole table to share are also available. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. Complimentary valet parking. (307) 732-5000 or fourseasons. com/jacksonhole.

Local: Restaurant & Bar A modern American steakhouse and bar located on Jackson’s historic town square at 55 N. Cache. The menu features both classic and specialty cuts of locally-ranched meats and wild game alongside fresh seafood, shellfish, house-ground burgers, and seasonally-inspired food. Owned and operated by Chefs Will Bradof and Paul Wireman of Trio: An American Bistro.

Serving lunch & dinner. For reservations call (307) 201-1717 localjh.com.

Merry Piglets Authentic Tex Mex. Merry Piglets, established in 1969, gained a great reputation for its tradition of serving excellent Tex Mex Food at great prices. Owners Denise and Joe Rice ensure that their salsas, voted the best by Splash! magazine, and entrees are made from scratch using fresh ingredients for their delicious specialties like cheese crisps, grilled fajitas and traditional dishes. Ambience includes cheerful decor, festive music and fireside dining. To complement its menu, Merry Piglets has a full bar serving margaritas, imported beer, wine and over thirty specialty tequilas. Located in downtown Jackson, 160 N. Cache next to Ripley’s. (307) 7332966. merrypiglets.com.

Q Roadhouse Eclectic roadhouse fare. 2550 Moose Wilson Road. Open nightly at 5:00. Happy hour at the bar from 5-6 and 8-9. For reservations call (307) 739-0700, qjacksonhole.com, @ jhQroadhouse.

Rendezvous Bistro American Bistro. 380 South Highway 89/Broadway.

Open nightly at 5:30. Happy hour at the bar from 5:30 - 6:30. For reservations call (307) 739-1100, rendezvousbistro.net, @jhBistro.

Sidewinders Sidewinders is much more than a restaurant.

Where else can you get great food and drinks while the kids play the newest games in our arcade? Sidewinders offers two bars and dining rooms, thirty draft beers and total sports coverage on fourty plasma TV’s and one big screen. Dining options include rotisserie chicken and pastas. All of our beef is Black Angus including burgers, steaks, brisket and prime rib. Don’t forget about our salads and New York-style pizza. Open daily at 11:30am. Located at 945 W. Broadway in the Hillside Plaza in Jackson. (307) 7345766. sidewinderstavern.com.

Snake River Grill Offering fine dining in a rustic-elegant setting for over 19 years on the Town Square. Our Modern American menu features organic produce, prime steaks, game chops and jet-fresh seafood. Our chef was nominated “Best Chef: Northwest” at the James Beard Awards. Over 300 wines and a full cocktail and beer list at our intimate new bar.

Dinner nightly from 6pm. Reservations at (307) 733-0557 or visit snakerivergrill.com.

Terra Café Voted silver for “Best Breakfast Burrito” in JH Weekly’s “Best of JH,” Terra Café is an eco-friendly restaurant, dedicated to organic ingredients for breakfast or lunch. Enjoy a selection of crepes, burritos, wraps, lattes and teas. Let us pack a picnic for your adventure of the day. Toys, crayons and board games are available for the kids! Located in Hotel Terra (307) 739-4025.

The Kitchen Modern American Cuisine. 125 North Glenwood in Downtown Jackson. Open nightly at 5:30. For reservations call (307) 7341633. thekitchenjacksonhole.com, @jhKitchen.

Trio: An American Bistro Located just off the town square at 45 S. Glenwood. The menu is inspired by classic bistro cuisine with influences from Italy, France and Asia. Trio offers an intimate setting and contemporary ambiance, with high barrel vaulted ceilings and a custom made fossil-bar top. Enjoy a wood-fired pizza, specialty cocktail, or glass of wine in front of the wood-burning oven all while watching the chefs perform in the open kitchen.

Open nightly at 5:30pm. For reservations call (307) 734-8038 bistrotrio.com.

Westbank Grill at Four Seasons Mountain steakhouse with prime steaks grilled to perfection on a 1,800-degree infrared grill along with signature side dishes and sauces.

Also featuring an extensive wine list and seasonal farm to table highlights. Enjoy views of the ski slopes and the outdoor terrace for sunny afternoons. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Complimentary valet parking. (307) 732-5000 or fourseasons.com/jacksonhole.

Catering

Bistro Catering If you are in need of a private chef for a romantic dinner for two, or a large wedding or gala event for 200 or more with all the bells

and whistles, Bistro Catering is your premier choice for excellent service and creative menu design. Bistro Catering will walk with you step-by- step to create the perfect event so you can enjoy the party. Whatever the occasion or location, Bistro Catering will help you create the perfect event. (307) 739-4682, bistrocatering.net, @jhBistroCater.

Dining In Catering Capturing culinary perfection and the rustic nature of the Tetons. We’ll work with you to assure every detail is delicious and just as you had envisioned. Call (208) 787-2667 or visit diningincateringinc.com for more information.

Wine & Spirits

Grand Teton Vodka Grand Teton Vodka distillery is on the Yellowstone-Teton scenic loop drive. Opening in June 2012, this craft distillery produces premium vodka from famous Idaho potatoes and pure mountain water. Potato vodkas are often rated the best in the world and this one is produced and bottled in America. 1755 Hwy 33 North, Driggs, Idaho. For latest info check the web site, www.tetonvodka.com or facebook.

Westside Wine & Spirits Your one-stop beverage destination on the West Bank. We feature a broad selection of liquors, specialty beers and over 700 fine wines from around the world. Our experienced staff will assist you in planning a party, finding the perfect gift or simply choosing the appropriate wine for any occasion. Located at the Aspens on Teton Village Road. (307) 733-5038. Email westside@ wyoming.com.

Transportation Alltrans, Inc. / Gray Line of Jackson Hole Wyoming’s largest transportation company.

Located in Jackson Hole, we offer a variety of services including airport ground transportation, charters, tours, Mountain States Express and more! With over forty vehicles, we can take care of any transportation needs! We have been touring Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks since 1973. For more information, visit us at jacksonholealltrans.com or give us a call at (307) 733-3135.

Precision Aviation, Inc. Precision Aviation offers a variety of aviation services including charter, aircraft management, aircraft maintenance, and pilot service. We are central to all locations in the Western United States with aircraft based in Twin Falls, Idaho and Driggs, Idaho.

Precision Aviation can fly you to virtually any destination in the United States, Canada and Mexico. Phone (208)308-1852, Fax (208) 735-1291. www.paviation.com.

Teton Aviation Center Fly-in to Teton Aviation Center and enjoy our full-service FBO with heated hangar space.

We also offer both scenic glider and airplane rides over the Tetons. If you are already a pilot, our flight department offers both mountain flying courses and aerobatic instruction. Stop in to see the warbird display and dine in our full service restaurant, Warbirds Café. Located at 253 Warbird Lane, Driggs, Idaho. For more information, call (800) 472-6382 or visit tetonaviation.com.

Saloon & Liquor Store • Convention/Meeting Facilities Restaurant • Jacuzzi Suites • Outdoor Heated Pool Outdoor Hot Tub • RV Park

750 W. Broadway • Jackson, WY www.virginianlodge.com 307-733-2792 • 800-262-4999

WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOLS

Grand Teton and Yellowstone Expeditions Departing Daily Jackson Hole, Wyoming

( 307 ) 733 -2623

www.wildlifeexpeditions.org Nonprofit Organization · Local Biologists Custom Vehicles · Ecofriendly Adventures SUMMER 2012 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Real Estate The Double L Ranch Nestled between meandering bends of the Salt River and 9,000 ft mountain peaks, the Double L Ranch affords the most discerning buyers an opportunity to enjoy a true western paradise.

Just 45 minutes south of Jackson Hole in western Wyoming’s wild and scenic Star Valley, the Double L is one of America’s most desirable residential sporting communities. (866) 6844159. dblranch.com.

Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates - Exclusive Affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate JHREA is the regions largest locally owned and operated real estate brokerage and the proud recipient of the 2011 Global Affiliate of the Year Award from Christie’s International Real Estate.

The reputation of JHREA for exemplary client service and market knowledge combined with the power of Christie’s International Real Estate, the largest network of independent real estate firms, offers a synergy between local strength and global networking. (888) 733-6060, www.JHREA.com.

Brad Andrews, Responsible Broker/Owner (307) 413-5846 bradandrews@jhrea.com Bomber Bryan, Associate Broker/Owner - (307) 690-2295 bomberbryan@jhrea.com Chad and Dianne Budge, Associate Brokers/ Owners - (307) 413-1364 chadbudge@jhrea.com Graham4 – Matt & Julie Faupel and Bob Graham & Karen Terra, Associate Brokers/Owners - (307) 690-0812 juliefaupel@jhrea.com Melissa Harrison, Sales Associate & Steve Robertson, Associate Broker (307) 690-0086 melissaharrison@jhrea.com Nancy Martino, Associate Broker - (307) 6901022 nancymartino@jhrea.com Bill May, Sales Associate/Owner - (307) 4134060 billmay@jhrea.com David A. Neville, Associate Broker - (307) 7349949 davidneville@jhrea.com David Viehman & Devon Viehman-Wheeldon, Associate Brokers/Owners (307) 690-0621 devonviehman@jhrea.com

Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty We outsell all other real estate brokerages combined - now with nine local office locations.

Main office: 185 W. Broadway, Jackson (307) 733-9009 or toll-free (888) 733-9009. jhsir.com.

Rob DesLauriers, Associate Broker - (307) 4133955 Rob.Delauriers@JHSIR.com Tom Evans, Associate Broker - (307) 413-5101 Tom.Evans@JHSIR.com, TomEvansRealEstate.com Mercedes Huff, Associate Broker - (307) 690-9000 Mercedes.Huff@JHSIR.com, mercedeshuff.com Jake Kilgrow, Associate Broker - (307) 4132822 Jake.Kilgrow@JHSIR.com Ed Liebzeit, President & Chief Operating Officer(307) 413-1618 or (208) 354-1888 Ed.Liebzeit@ JHSIR.com Carol Linton, Associate Broker- (307) 739-8159 Carol.Linton@JHSIR.com John Resor, Associate Broker - (307) 739-8062 John.Resor@JHSIR.com Dave Spackman, Associate Broker - (307) 7398132 Dave.Spackman@jhsir.com Jeff Ward, Sales Associate - (307) 690-0873 Jeff.

Ward@JHSIR.com Kelli Ward, Associate Broker - (307) 690-5286 Kelli.Ward@JHSIR.com 148

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Live Water Properties Live Water Properties is a unique ranch brokerage company representing clients in the acquisition and disposition of investment grade ranch holdings in Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Colorado, Oregon, Nebraska, Utah and California. Our focus is on recreational ranch real estate, exclusively fly fishing properties, working cattle ranches, big game hunting ranches and conservation ranches. Alex Maher and John Merritt, (866) 734-6100 or (307) 7346100. alex@livewaterproperties.com, jmerritt@ livewaterproperties.com.

Ranch Marketing Associates Representing the top echelon of ranch brokers in the west. Founders Ron Morris and Billy Long have assembled the most knowledgeable western ranch brokers to create a ranch real estate firm that combines extraordinary client service, unsurpassed knowledge of the marketplace, and global reach. rmabrokers.com. Ron Morris (970) 535-0881, ron@rmabrokers.com; Billy Long (970)927-3850, billy@rmabrokers.com.

Spring Creek Ranch Realty Jackson Hole’s boutique real estate company.

With decades of sales and property management experience, our brokers and agents offer a unique combination of selling, buying and management services. Whether you are looking to be a permanent or part-time resident or an investor here in Jackson Hole, Spring Creek Ranch Realty brings the knowledge and a friendly face to help you with your Jackson Hole real estate needs. springcreekranchrealty.com, (307) 732-8188.

Ted Dawson, Broker (307) 690-8170 ted@ springcreekranchrealty.com Margi Barrie, Broker (307) 690-7923 margi@ springcreekranchrealty.com Kent Hobson, Sales Associate (307) 6906844 kent@springcreekranchrealty.com Jeff Dupont, Broker (307) 413-4438 jeff@ springcreekranchrealty.com The Wyoming Club At our planned community in Wyoming’s Black Hills, you can embrace a lifestyle defined by western elegance that captures the spirit of the American West. Further characterizing The Wyoming Club experience is its proposed array of amenities, including a clubhouse, spa, riding barn and Wyoming’s only Hills & Forrestdesigned golf course. To add your name to our inquiry list visit wyomingclubusa.com or call Rhonda at (307) 216-0369.

For the Home Landscaping

MD Nursery & Landscaping, Inc. For over twenty years we have been servicing Jackson and Eastern Idaho. We are the region’s premier landscape contractor, garden center and floral shop. We are conveniently located on Highway 33 in Driggs, Idaho, and just thirty minutes from Jackson, Wyoming. Our landscaping department offers concept to design services as well as full installation of natural landscapes ranging from water features, rock work, ponds, trees and shrubs, sod and irrigation. Stop by and visit our full service greenhouse, gift shop, floral shop and garden café. Summer hours are 8am - 6pm Monday through Saturday. (208) 3548816. mdlandscapinginc.com.

Interior Design & Furnishings

Ashley Campbell At Ashley Campbell, you always work with experienced interior designers. From a single piece of art to designing your entire home, our talented designers will assist. As a full-service Interior Design Studio experienced in renovations and remodels for residential and commercial across the country, Ashley Campbell is wellequipped to aid in taking you from floor plan to finish. Cherry Creek North, Denver, (303) 9966195, www.ashleycampbell.com.

Harker Design Harker Design has been providing high-end interior design services for over 30 years. Our long-standing tradition has been to exceed the expectations of our clients by individually customizing each project from concept to finished installation. Visit our showrooms located in Wilson, Wyoming (307) 733-5960; Big Sky, Montana (406) 993-9423; and Idaho Falls, Idaho (208) 523-3323. References available. harkerdesign.com.

Jacque Jenkins-Stireman, A Design Studio Interior designer Jacque Jenkins-Stireman simply designs spaces her clients continue to love.

Her studio is located at 1715 High School Road in the Flat Creek Business Center. (307) 7393008. jjstireman@wyoming.com.

Laurie Waterhouse Interiors Laurie Waterhouse Interiors is a full-service interior design firm with more than fifteen years experience. Both the retail store and design studio feature home furnishings and accessories including an abundance of design resources.

Laurie Waterhouse Interiors offers their clients the opportunity to create the home of their dreams. 90 E. Pearl Ave. in Jackson, WY. (307) 732-0130. laurieinteriors.com, email lwi@ laurieinteriors.com.

Sesshu Design Associates Do you want a unique, comfortable, beautiful home that is eco-friendly and perfectly tailored to suit your lifestyle? Create a home you love to live in, with less stress and hassle on your part with our collaborative process. To learn more, call (307) 200-9222 or visit www. sesshudesign.com.

Snake River Interiors Snake River Interiors is a full-service interior design firm and retail showroom which features home furnishings, fine art, antiques and accessories from an eclectic fusion of established and emerging artisans and furniture designers within a constantly evolving inventory. They are dedicated to the art of creating spaces and are firmly committed to providing the highest level quality of service to their clients. 984 W Broadway, Powderhorn Mall, Jackson, WY, (307) 733-3005, www. snakeriverinteriors.com.

Stockton & Shirk Interior Designs Stockton & Shirk Interior Designs is a client based firm focusing on both residential and commercial design. We strive to design each space as unique as the people it serves. The harmony of every great interior is achieved through a balance of meticulous attention to detail. An individual’s lifestyle provides the true inspiration for each project. 3445 N. Pines Way, Wilson WY. (307) 733-0274. stocktonandshirk.com.

Willow Creek Home Furnishings Visit our showroom, just off the town square at 115 East Broadway. Willow Creek Home Furnishings is an eclectic mix of unique home furnishings, one of a kind local artisan pieces, antiques and colorful one of a kind area rugs. Our large showroom also features antique maps, home accessories, jewelry, art created by Jackson locals and gifts. Our experienced interior design team is always available to discuss your design project needs. With over forty years of collective knowledge in Jackson, California and New York, we help you create a home that is comfortable and uniquely yours. www. willowcreekhf.com, (307) 733-7868.

Precision Aviation, Inc. excellence in aviation since 2002

WRJ Home and WRJ Design Studio WRJ Home and WRJ Design Studio offers a sophisticated selection of high quality furnishings, unique lighting, decorative objects, luxurious throws, exclusive fabrics and antiques from the 18th century to contemporary. We also offer selected works from renowned artists both locally and nationally. Our Showroom locations are at 30 King St., Jackson, WY and 57 South Main St. in Victor, ID. Contact (307) 2004881, wrjassociates.com and wrjhome.com.

Dog Boarding The Hairball Hotel The Hairball Hotel offers a unique home style, no cage, boarding environment for canine clientele. With fifteen years of experience, three-quarters of an acre of fencing, three separate yards and two separate buildings, your dog will be in good hands. In the summer there are baby pools for your dogs to cool-off.

Whether you are going away for weeks or just for the day, try The Hairball Hotel. Reservations are highly recommended. Located in downtown Victor, just 30 minutes from Jackson. 44 Depot Way, Victor, Idaho. (208) 787-2806. hairballhotel.com.

Medical Centers

CHARTERED FLIGHTS • AIRCRAFT MANAGEMENT BASED AT THE DRIGGS-REED MEMORIAL AIRPORT 208.308.1852 • WWW.PAVIATION.COM

Jackson Hole's Complete Transportation Service

St. John’s Family Health & Urgent Care Provides comprehensive health care for adults and children and urgent care clinic for illnesses and injuries. Same day appointments or walkins welcome. Open extended hours. Located in the Smith’s Plaza, (307) 739-8999, urgentcare. tetonhospital.org.

St. John’s Joint Replacement Center As a Center of Excellence in Orthopedics with state-of-the-art technology, we can help you get back on your game. Our orthopedic specialists are renowned for their experience in knee, hip and shoulder replacement procedures. Call (888) 739.7499 or visit tetonhospital.org/coe for more information.

St. John’s Medical Center Teton County’s only full-service hospital and nursing home. Non-profit community medical center provides 24 hour emergency care, surgery center, laboratory, radiology and more. 625 E. Broadway, (307) 733.3636, tetonhospital.org.

AIRPORT GROUND TRANSPORTATION YELLOWSTONE TOURS • GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK TOURS CHARTERS • SALT LAKE CITY SHUTTLE

Touring Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks since 1973!

(307) 733-3135 • 1-800 443-6133 • shuttle@jacksonholealltrans.com

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Just a few things to do in Jackson Hole If you love this map as much as we do, you can buy prints online at http://to.ly/dfXd 150

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2012

Jackson

n Western swing at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. n Pose for a photo under an elk antler arch (p.22). n Hang with painted animals at the National Museum of Wildlife Art (p.132). n Ask questions at the Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center (p.18). n Explore local history at the Jackson Hole Historical Society & Museum.

n Hike (or ride the chairlift) to the 7,802-foot summit of Snow King. n Watch the longest-running shootout gang in action (6 p.m. Monday to Saturday). n Go for local suds at Snake River Brewing or Thai Me Up. n Try the chocolate cabernet sauvignon ice cream at Moo’s Gourmet, the state’s only creamery.

Teton Village

n Take the tram to the Top of the World. (Or hike the 7.2 mile Summit Trail.) n Speed down the buffed trails at the JHMR Bike Park (p.108). n Run off a mountaintop on a tandem paragliding flight. n Ride the gondola to Couloir for dinner or drinks. n Shop and sample whiskeys at Wool & Whiskey.

n Treat your skin to the Elevate Facial at Chill Spa (p.112). n Catch a Grand Teton Music Festival concert (p.136).

Grand Teton National Park

n Motor across Jenny Lake on the public passenger-only ferry. n Enjoy the Zen vibe at the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center and the flat(ish) hiking trails nearby.

n Get permits and learn about park history at the Craig Tho mas Discovery and Visitor Center. n Stay, or at least get breakfast (reservations required), at luxe Jenny Lake Lodge. n Look for bison along Antelope Flats. n Do a breakfast or dinner cruise to Elk Island. n Ask Dornan’s bartenders to borrow binoculars (after you order pizza and a drink).

Wilson

n Drink up local history at the Stagecoach Bar. Go Sunday night to hear the Stagecoach Band (p.82). n Wander the aisles at Hungry Jack’s General Store. n Dig into local flavor at Nora’s Fish Creek Inn. n Bike Teton Pass trails (p.48). n Enjoy coffee and a bagel alongside Fish Creek at Pearl Street Bagels.

Further Afield

n Soak in Granite Hot Springs. n Visit the new(ish) Old Faithful Visitor Center. n Raft the rapids of the Snake River Canyon. n Suck down a huckleberry milkshake at Victor Emporium in Idaho. n Go to lifeinthetetons.com for more details.

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Best of

JH

calendar of events

price chambers

Join the Jackson Hole Shootout Gang for a Wild West showdown on the northeast corner of the Jackson Town Square at 6 p.m. every Monday through Saturday through Labor Day weekend.

Ongoing Evening Art Gallery Walks: Every Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m., July through September. Galleries come together for this weekly walk, setting out wine, and maybe some food, and inviting locals and visitors alike to wander in, even if only to wonder.

Grand Teton Music Festival: Fresh off last summer’s 50th season, the Festival offers seven weeks of concerts, from July 4 through August 18, in the acoustically superb Walk Festival Hall at Teton Village. Call 733-1128 or visit www.gtmf.org.

Historic Downtown Walking Tours: Do you know the official name of the Town Square? Learn that and more on a free walking tour of Jackson’s downtown led by Jackson Hole Historical Society volunteers. Tours are held Tuesdays and Thursdays beginning at 10:30 a.m. and Saturday afternoons at 2 p.m. from May 29 through September 29. Call 733-9605.

Jackson Hole Rodeo: Every Wednesday and Saturday evening between Memorial Day and September 1. Call 733-7927 or visit www.jacksonholerodeo.us.

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Stagecoach Rides: From Memorial Day through Labor Day; the route is around the downtown area and starts at the Town Square.

Town Square Shootout: The longest continually running Wild Weststyle showdown takes place at 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Call 733-3316.

Alive @ Five: 5 to 5:45 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from June 19 through the end of August at the Teton Village Commons. Free programs for the entire family! On Tuesdays, a wildlife biologist from Teton Science Schools leads an interactive educational presentation on the flora and fauna of the valley. On Wednesdays, it’s the Teton Raptor Center that comes to the Village, bringing live hawks, falcons, eagles, and owls for you to see up-close and flying free overhead. The Grand Teton Music Festival does an “appeteaser” chamber music concert Thursdays.

National Museum of Wildlife Art: Monday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.The NMWA celebrates its 25th anniversary this year with a new Sculpture Trail. Special exhibits include a Bob Kuhn retrospective and also photographs from National Geographic’s archives. Call 733-5771 or visit www.wildlifeart.org.

MAY 19 to 20 ElkFest and Elk Antler Auction. A whole weekend of events has grown up around the Jackson Hole Boy Scout Elk Antler Auction. Visit www.jacksonhole chamber.com.

25 Rotary Club of Jackson Hole Wine Fest.

Taste more than 400 wines from around the world. Call 733-4466.

bradly j. boner

25 to 28 Old West Days. Enjoy a parade, stagecoach rides, Old West Brew Fest, carriage show, barn dance, Shootout Gang, Mountain Man Rendezvous, and a roping event. Call 733-3316 or visit www. jacksonholechamber.com.

JUNE 8 to 10 Annual Rod Run. Organized by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization. At the Virginian Lodge. Visit www.eieiocarclub.org.

16 Jackson Hole Half Marathon. Visit www. redlinerunningcompany.com.

17 RaptorFest. Celebrate—and see—birds of prey at the Teton Raptor Center. Call 2032551 or visit www.tetonraptorcenter.org.

21 to 23 Jackson Hole Wine Auction. This benefit for the Grand Teton Music Festival includes tastings, dinners, and a gala auction. Call 732-9961.

28 to 30 Jackson Hole Writers Conference.

Now in its 20th year. Visit www.jackson holewritersconference.com.

JULY 4 4 of July in Jackson Hole includes a pancake breakfast on the Town Square, a parade, a free Grand Teton Music Festival concert, fireworks displays, and a rodeo.

Call 733-3316 or visit www.jacksonhole chamber.com. th

7 to 8 Silver Collector Car Show and Auction. Visit www.silverauctions.com.

13 to 15 Teton Village Art & Antique Show.

Named among the “Top 100 Hot Antique Shows” in the U.S. by Country Home Magazine in 2009. Call (303) 570-9763.

The Teton County Fair—July 22 to 29—includes a carnival with rides and games, rodeos, Figure “8” races, pig wrestling, concerts, and more.

downtown Jackson. $3 admission. Call 733-8792 or visit www.artassociation.org.

27 to 29 Teton Village Art Show. Arts and crafts on the lawn at Teton Village.

22 to 29 Teton County Fair. Call 733-5289 or visit www.tetoncountyfair.com.

AUGUST 4 Stomping the Divots. This benefit for the Jackson Hole Therapeutic Riding Association includes an afternoon of polo and an evening of fine dining, live and silent auctions, and dancing. Call 733-1374.

10 to 12 25 Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival. One of the premier bluegrass festivals in the West. Call 800-TARGHEE or visit www.grandtarghee.com. th

17 to 18 12th Annual Jackson Hole Scottish Festival. Experience all things Scottish— music, Scottish-style athletics, kilts, regional foods, and more. $5 admission/ day. Held at the Teton County Fairgrounds.

Call 730-8659.

17 to 19 Art Fair Jackson Hole. Arts and crafts show in downtown Jackson. $3 admission.

Call 733-8792 or visit www.artassociation.org.

25 Teton Science Schools’ Annual Fundraising Auction. Call 733-1313.

13 to 15 Targhee Fest. Three-day music festival featuring blues, folk, Americana, and roots music at Grand Targhee Resort. Call 353-2300 or visit www.grandtarghee.com.

SEPTEMBER

20 to 22 Art Fair Jackson Hole. Enjoy fine arts and crafts while wandering Miller Park in

8 LOTOJA. This 206-mile bike race starts in Logan, Utah, and ends in Teton Village.

Visit www.lotojaclassic.com.

6 to 9 Western Design Conference. A showcase of traditional and contemporary western design. Visit www.westerndesign conference.com.

6 to 9 Annual Jackson Hole One Fly. This international fly-fishing competition raises money for stream habitat improvement.

Visit www.jhonefly.org.

6 to 16 28th Annual Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival. Features fine arts, music, cuisine, and home design. Call 733-3316 or visit www.jacksonholechamber.com.

8 16th Annual Old Bill’s Fun Run for Charity.

Thousands of people have run 5K or 10K, and more than $14 million has been raised. Call 739-1026 or visit www.cfjack sonhole.org.

15 Black Tie Blue Jeans Ski Ball. Benefits Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club. Call 733-6433 or visit www.jhskiclub.org.

23 Jackson Hole Marathon. It starts at the Town Square and finishes 26.2 miles later in Teton Village. Visit www.jackson holemarathon.com.

30 Teton Village Aerial Tram Closes.

OCTOBER 27 Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club Annual Ski Swap. Call 733-6433 or visit www.jhskiclub.org.JH

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Christie’s International Real Estate GLOBAL AFFILIATE OF THE YEAR 2011

Phillips Ridge

Absolutely incredible 18 acre Estate Parcel in the Phillips Ridge subdivision just north of Wilson. The building envelope resides among a mature and grand setting of Cottonwoods on the banks of Fish creek with views of the Teton Range, The Sleeping Indian, and of course Fish Creek. Quite the home front Promoting a wonderful outdoor lifestyle with access to the Bridger Teton National Forest, Fish Creek, and your private stocked pond, and a just a short walk to Nora’s and the Post office. YES your horses are welcome too” MLS #11-2569 $4,950,000

Grand View Estates

Pearl at Jackson

Spectacularly designed subdivision located north of town with striking views of the Grand Tetons. Each parcel embraces a magical setting, private pond, mature landscaping, old cottonwood trees and great proximity to Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis the Snake River and Gros Ventre River. Six lots in the subdivision; 3 of which are available, priced from $795,000 to $1,600,000.

Each residence, located on the second and third floors, has its own individualized floor plan. No two units are alike, which affords individuality and distinction for each owner. All residences feature spacious decks while some have private outdoor courtyards as well.

Penthouse units feature vaulted ceilings and 13-16’ tall windows with southern exposure. Prices starting at $795,000.

Fairways Estates

96 Ranch

Located north of Jackson, with close proximity to both the wilderness and shopping, art galleries and fine dining. A rare opportunity to live in Fairway Estates. The spacious Great Room is strategically designed to capture spectacular sunrises and picturesque sunsets over the Tetons. Situated on 4.67 acres, this well landscaped parcel includes ponds, pine trees and plenty of space for gatherings. The home is finished with only the best from Verde Chain granite countertops, Sub-Zero appliances, fireplaces and the rare commodity of A/C. MLS 11-1481, Price upon request.

This breath taking ranch is truly one of the most remarkable places in all of Jackson Hole! The two contiguous 35-acre tracts rest on the “Snake River” beneath the expansive breadth of the Grand Teton Mountain range and also bordering “Grand Teton National Park”. The property is positioned in a scenic wildlife corridor and is defined by natural wonders and the following prominent views: The Snake River, The Grand Tetons, Death Canyon, Buck Mountain and Sleeping Indian. MLS# 10-2445, Price Upon Request.

The NeVille Group Awarded Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates

2011 Top Producer

David A. NeVille, Associate Broker | Susan NeVille | Douglas Howard, Associate Broker | Shawn M Asbell, Sales Associate 307.734.9949 | 888.733.6060 | info@thenevillegroup.com

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