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January 2018

Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

January 2018 Sweet & sour pork • Open leek & sweet potato pie • Chocolate orange flapjacks

food

(with a healthy twist)

INSIDE bbcgoodfood.com

5-a-day chicken traybake

7 DAYS TO EAT BETTER AND FEEL AMAZING

Eat your way to

better health Osanimped uta sum eossinis ma volupta tincia ven issequam nones maximus plabor atis elent eseque silroep Ab illorero inimus aut aut reratur? recipes SARA BUENFELD nutritional advice KERRY TORRENS photographs MIKE ENGLISH

healthy diet plan

Welcome to January If you’re not a fan of food crazes such as cloud eggs, obscure grains and unicorn everything, 2018 will be something of a delight. ‘Exciting’ and ‘ethical’ are this year’s watchwords. The BBC Good Food Trends Panel predicts that flexitarian eating (that’s a lot of veg, with just a little meat or fish) will go mainstream, and we’ll also be embracing flavour-packed nootropics, foods that boost brain power. OK, there may also be more extreme things on the way. Hello haem burgers – plant-based patties that bleed, but which are really just veggie burgers. Read our review on page 62. That’s not to say we advocate slavishly following food fashion. January is the time to embrace the familiar, the comforting, the feelgood – and to bring some balance back. That’s where dishes like our duck ragu with swede pappardelle (p31) and lighter clam chowder (p30) come in. All about satisfaction, not sacrifice, these recipes are pure genius.

Exclusively for subscribers

Check out our Subscriber Club offers for January. Enjoy a free whisky tasting in London, or save big on a relaxing break at a top hotel and spa near the world-famous Ascot Racecourse. Turn to page 54 for details. SUBSCRIPTION QUERIES Call 03330 162 124 Email goodfood@buysubscriptions.com Visit buysubscriptions.com/customersservices/FAQs KEEP IN TOUCH Call 020 8433 3983 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) Email hello@bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com Write to us at the addresses on page 149 Visit bbcgoodfood.com Follow facebook.com/bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood

See you next issue, on sale 1 February.

Christine Hayes, Editor-in-chief @bbcgoodfood @chrishayesUK

PLUS! Eat well everyday

The GF healthy diet plan is your year-round guide to eating well and feeling great. Discover inspiring new recipes for imaginative meals on page 77.

Star contributors Gary Usher The North West’s food scene is thriving at least partly because of the tireless work of this creative chef. Gary shares recipes from his new Liverpool restaurant, Wreckfish (p120).

Nadiya Hussain Our star columnist and her family try out veganism. Find out if they were convinced to make a permanent change (p53).

Cathy Chapman Cathy is the head of food product direction and innovation at M&S and a key member of the BBC Good Food Trends Panel, which predicts what we’ll be eating this year (p58).

You’ll find more plans online at bbcgoodfood. com/content/sign-our-new-diet-plans. Cut back on processed sugar, increase your energy levels, boost your immune system and feel great!

this month’s recipe index

January 2018

UPDATE 9

This month's best buys, Jamie Oliver's recipe for a winter salad, and how to make a cute cactus cake

COVER STORY 23

COMFORT WITH A TWIST

WINES FOR WINTER

5 INGREDIENTS Spend

RIDICULOUSLY EASY

less time shopping with our recipes for simple weeknight meals

107

Beef & Guinness stew with bacon dumplings

MY VEGAN CHALLENGE

64 67

EMMA FREUD MARK GATISS

Food memories, p70 ROSIE BIRKETT

Seasonal recipes, p96 TOM KERRIDGE

101

One-pot wonders, p104 DIANA HENRY

How to use fish sauce, p108 JOHN TORODE

Sweet & sour pork, p114

MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE, p23

FOOD & DRINK TRENDS

The experts predict what we'll be eating and drinking in 2018 V-REV VEGAN DINER

Read our Manchester restaurant review

WHY A SANDWICH ISN’T A MEAL Joanna Blythman

explains why this lunchtime staple is bad for our health

NADIYA HUSSAIN

The rise of sourdough, p68

OPINION 58

Best of the JOANNA BLYTHMAN

Vegetarian mains the whole family will enjoy Our columnist Nadiya Hussain explains why she encouraged her family to try a vegan diet

healthy eating for the year ahead with our nutritious seven-day diet plan

Let's avoid sandwiches, p67

FAMILY MEAT-FREE MEALS

DIET PLAN Kick-start your

Being a vegan family, p53

Make Orlando Murrin's foolproof paella

10 REASONS TO AVOID DRY JANUARY Why our

HEALTH

Our expert Victoria Moore picks her favourite pairings for comforting dishes

Emma Freud tackles the tricky sourdough loaf FOOD MILESTONES Doctor Who's Mark Gatiss shares his life in food columnist Tony Naylor won't be giving up the booze this month

Satisfy your cravings with healthy comfort food that's packed with seasonal veg

EASIEST EVER

THE RISE OF SOURDOUGH

Recipe Lulu Grimes Photograph Tom Regester Food stylist Jennifer Joyce Stylist Luis Peral Shoot director Martin Topping

COOK THE COVER & SHARE YOUR PHOTOS

#bbcgoodfood #cookthecover

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 5

WEEKEND 76

96 104 108 114 116 120 124

BBC GF EATS OUT Join us

for Sunday lunch with chef José Pizarro SEASONAL JOY Brighten up January with Rosie Birkett's indulgent recipes ONE-POTS Tom Kerridge's simple, warming recipes STAR INGREDIENT Diana Henry's three new ways to use fish sauce TAKEAWAY AT HOME John Torode's sweet & sour pork

BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you to have the best food experience you can, whether you are shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise… Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops.

A TASTE OF SRI LANKA

Find out how to make spicy and vibrant dishes at home

Recipes for everyone There are 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining, and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes.

WRECKFISH BISTRO

Make this month's menu from a new Liverpool restaurant MEMORIES OF ANTONIO

Barney Desmazery remembers the godfather of Italian cooking, Antonio Carluccio

Tested and trusted All our recipes are triple-tested – once by the writer or chef, once or twice in the Good Food Test Kitchen, and again on the photo shoot – so they’ll work first time for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us.

TEST KITCHEN 127

Expert cooking advice, plus our next-level apple crumble

EAT LIKE A LOCAL 135 138

CUBA Insider tips on

142

GROWING UNDERGROUND

where to eat and drink SIX QUICK TRIPS Snowy breaks for families, couples and adventure-seekers

Meet the two men growing greens in World War 2 bunkers

EVERY ISSUE 54 74 119 144 151 152 153 154

SUBSCRIBER CLUB Exclusive

discounts and rewards

DON’T MISS BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS Book now NEXT MONTH A sneak

preview of our next issue

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS READER RECIPE A recipe

for vegan lemon cake YOUR FEEDBACK Share your views and photos RECIPE INDEX Where to find all the recipes in this issue THE LAST BITE Find out how to make your own za'atar

6 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Why you can trust

42 reader offers • Save on a Cooks Professional food processor, p94 • See Europe on a luxury river cruise, p113 • City breaks for food lovers, p126 • Visit Italy, Spain and Switzerland, p134 PLUS Save over £60 on a mixed case of wines from Laithwaite’s, p102

HOW TO CONTACT US 03330 162 124 goodfood@buysubscriptions.com WEBSITE ENQUIRIES 020 8433 1430 goodfoodwebsite@bbc.com SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES

READER OFFER ENQUIRIES

020 7150 5358 liza.evans@immediate.co.uk

BBC GOOD FOOD SHOWS For tickets 0844 581 1354 General Show enquiries 020 3405 4286

Ethical We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #Fridayfood challenge, when we use up Test Kitchen leftovers). Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our nutritional therapist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 150. Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/category/family-kids. Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – both in the UK and overseas –is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-theground writers and food and travel journalists. Independent and respected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local finds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations. Food is our passion and pleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed and celebrated, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, choosing wine, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us daily on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

News, trends, buys, events and the best of the BBC this month edited by KEITH KENDRICK

HOT TREND

CACTI CAKE

Embrace the cactus craze with these fun and stylish decorations recipe MIRIAM NICE photographs EMMA BOYNS As it’s a proven fact that the internet loves cake and cacti, we’ve made these plants out of sugar – an Instagrammer’s dream. Although this cake looks intricate, the decorating technique is easy to master if you break it down. A plain vanilla sponge iced with vanilla buttercream works well as the base (find a recipe at bbcgoodfood.com). To decorate, start by crumbling up some shortbread to create a sandy base, then load up your cake or cupcakes with as many plants as you like. Mix up the sizes and shades of green for maximum impact. Turn over for how to decorate JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 9

Get decorating…

CACTI CAKE First, make a basic buttercream

MAKES enough for 1 x 20cm cake or 12 cupcakes PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V

Put 250g softened butter in a large bowl. Add 500g icing sugar and 2-3 tsp milk, then combine everything roughly with a wooden spoon. Using a freestand mixer or electric beaters, beat the mixture until smooth and pale. Add some food colouring, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 322 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 11g • carbs 42g • sugars 41g • fibre none • protein none • salt 0.4g

Cactus

To make cacti, roll out a ball of green ready-to-roll icing. Dust with icing sugar and flatten it with your fingertips, then wrap the icing around a round chocolate truffle. Roll the whole thing in your hands to smooth the edges and seal it up. Mix a little water with some royal icing sugar to make a stiff paste, then pipe tiny dots all over the surface in curved lines to create spikes.

tip

Aloe

Make the leaves by moulding lots of pieces of green ready-to-roll icing into long teardrop shapes (make the tips as pointy as you can). Press the rounded ends of the leaves together, one at a time, bunching them from the centre. Make progressively larger leaves as you work outwards. Make a few of the leaves hang forward and others back for a natural feel. You can also add a light brushing of dark red food colouring to leaf tips to make them look even more realistic.

Sempervivum

Sedum

Sempervivum

Fix a leaf nozzle to your piping bag – we used Wilton 67. Fill your piping bag with pale green buttercream. 10 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Cactus

Take any star nozzle you like (or use a few types) and fix it to a piping bag. Fill the bag with pale green, dark green or greenish red buttercream and pipe dots or spikes in clumps. This is great for filling in the spaces between your other designs.

Have you tried compiled by ANNA LAWSON

Holding the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, gently squeeze the piping bag and pull up sharply at the same time. This will form a small ivylike leaf shape. Pipe a ring of these leaves, slightly overlapping, with the points facing up and outwards. Start a new ring of leaves within the first one. Repeat until you reach the middle of the circle then pipe a few tiny spikes of buttercream to finish holding the piping bag straight.

Aloe

Shoot director MARTIN TOPPING | Food stylist MIRIAM NICE | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Crush up a shortbread biscuit using a pestle and mortar. Sprinkle it over the surface of your iced cake in clumps to create a sand effect.

update

HAVE YOU TRIED...

Seitan

Here at Good Food HQ, we’re always trying new and exciting food products, drinks and seasonal ingredients. This month, as it’s Veganuary, we shine a spotlight on a vegan ingredient which has grown hugely in popularity recently.

WHAT IS IT? Seitan

(pronounced ‘say-tan’) is a wheat-based product also known as wheat gluten. It is used in vegetarian and vegan cooking as a meat substitute.

WHY NOT JUST USE TOFU? Seitan has a higher protein content and meatier texture

than tofu, so works better as a ‘mock-meat’.

MOCK-MEAT? LIKE WHAT? Think fried chicken, burgers, wings and kebabs... but all vegetarian. Cooked seitan is an effective faux meat as it crisps up on the outside but remains moist and chewy inside, just like meat.

WHERE CAN I TRY IT?

The vegan ‘fried chicken’ at Hackney’s Temple of Seitan has proved hugely popular, while Sheffield’s Make No Bones serves up everything from ‘ribs’ to ‘kebabs’. You

can buy seitan from ocado.com or in health food shops.

HOW DO I USE IT? Seitan

normally comes in rough pieces, with instructions for cooking. It can be used in stews, stir-fries, veggie burgers, tacos and more. Find the recipe for our seitan & black bean stir-fry on bbc goodfood.com.

What counts as 1 of my 5-a-day? January makes most of us more conscious about eating enough fruit and veg. But you might be surprised by what constitutes a portion of your five-a-day

GREEN RED

1 cereal bowl of lettuce or mixed leaves

YELLOW

3 tbsp sweetcorn

1 onion

PURPLE ORANGE

8 Brussels sprouts

1 tbsp tomato purée

10 radishes

14 cherries

WHITE

3 celery sticks

1 /2 grapefruit

3 tbsp chickpeas

8 spring onions 14 button mushrooms

6 passion fruit 1 tbsp raisins

3 apricots

3 tbsp baked beans

3 tbsp kidney beans

2 clementines

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 11

FOOD EDITOR’S

BAROMETER

What’s trending? FAUX FOOD

Dash water bills itself as British sparkling spring water infused with wonky fruit and veg. Using surplus produce gets a huge tick, but what’s even more thrilling is that with no sugar or flavourings other than the fruit, it isn’t remotely sweet – a huge bonus. £14.99 for 12 x 330ml cans, amazon.co.uk

Choc & Awe

This plant-based cheesecake from Freaks of Nature went down very well with the whole team. Dairy-free and glutenfree it still delivered on flavour and felt indulgent enough to eat as a treat. £2.29 for a 90g pot, waitrose.com

Mimo Catalan salsa romesco

This traditional Catalan sauce is made in Spain and packed with almonds, hazelnuts, peppers and tomatoes. Billed as a dip it also makes a fantastic instant sauce for pasta, a dressing for veg (I used it on broccoli) and even a spread for toast under a layer of melted cheese. £9.50, amazon.co.uk or order it from shop.mimofood.com for €8.

Milk chocolate cocoa dusted salt & pepper almonds

Addictive. I ate most of the pot myself and they taste exactly as described. £4.99 for 160g tub, beanandpod.com

FREE GOODY BAG with GF Eats out

Our popular GF Eats Out events celebrate the great British restaurant scene (see page 76 for our exclusive lunch at Pizarro) and every month we give away a goody bag worth £25, with treats such as Mr Hugh’s extra virgin olive oil, Clearspring organic rice cakes, Bonne Maman strawberry conserve and We Love Manfood’s beer & smoke pickle.

12 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

PREMIUM MIXERS

Gone are the days when plain tonic was the only option, these days the market for premium alcohol mixers has exploded, with brands like Fever Tree and Fentimans reporting record sales and bringing out a whole host of exciting new flavours like clementine & cinnamon tonic.

VEG-BASED COCKTAILS

Forget dry January, we’re still drinking cocktails but now we’re putting vegetables in them (new year, new me and all that). And we’ve noticed a rise in veg-based cocktails in trendy bars recently, from beetroot to yellow pepper!

VEGANUARY

Veganuary (aka going vegan for January) continues to grow in popularity each year, with the charity Veganuary reporting a 20-fold increase in participants in the past four years.

WHISKY

Just when we thought gin could never be knocked off the top trends spot, it looks like whisky could very well be having a renaissance. Cool new companies like Whisky Me (a new whisky subscription service) are making whisky more accessible and weakening the stereotype that whisky is an ‘old man’s’ drink (whisky-me.com).

Barometer ANNA LAWSON | Book reviews FIONA FORMAN

Dash cucumber water

We’ve seen a rise in vegetarian and vegan restaurants and pop-ups serving ‘faux’ meat products recently, often made using seitan (see p11) or jackfruit. And they’re impressively similar, from meaty-looking vegan burgers to tacos and even vegan ‘fried chicken’.

Photographs RIMMA BONDARENKO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO AND PHOTOCUISINE RM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, JEAN CAZALS

January’s best buys, chosen for you by Lulu Grimes

update

Rare mezcal Try

this smoky and smooth agavebased spirit with dinner.

Mexican as you’ve never had it before – high end

cooking overseen by Martha Ortiz, cookbook author, TV star and chef at leading restaurant Dulce Patria in Mexico City.

RESTAURANT INSIDER

ELLA CANTA

6 reasons to add this Modern Mexican to your restaurant hit list

A dedicated margarita menu

some served in ornate skulls, all made with premium tequila.

Guacamole nacionalista

– the most Instagrammed dish: it’s all about the texture – super-smooth avo with ricotta, pomegranates and golden grasshopper (try it!) adds crunch.

Firedanced seabass

Martha Ortiz says it ‘was inspired by a dish from Sinaloa State, North Western Mexico. When I saw the method of cooking on a rejilla (rack) over the fire it looked as if the fish had started dancing. It is marinated in red adobo, mayonnaise, lemon and chilli powder.’

One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London W1J 7QY ellacanta.com @ellacantalondon

Warm vibes

BOOKS FOR COOKS Vegan in 7 by Rita Serano (£16.99, Kyle) If you’re thinking of going vegan for Veganuary or just want a break from meat, fish and dairy after Christmas, this is the book for you. It’s not too taxing either – all the recipes contain no more than seven ingredients, with tons of colourful stir-fries, salads, pastas, stews and curries. Must-try recipe Mushroom polenta tart

East by West by Jasmine Hemsley (£25, Bluebird) One-half of the superfoodie Hemsley sisters, Jasmine has gone solo with this collection of Ayurvedic recipes designed to help balance (and boost) mind, body and spirit. Perfect for a new-year health kick. Must-try recipe Sri Lankan mustard fish curry with broccoli ‘pea’ rice

The room is ablaze with pink, red, blue and tan; striking artwork; wooden screens, leather booths and flattering, low lighting.

The Modern Cook’s Year by Anna Jones (£26, Fourth Estate) Vegetables are given star billing in this huge book. Divided into six seasons, Anna shows how to make the most of what’s available, whether it’s kale at the start of the year in a bean stew or the first peas of spring in a sweet potato & green chilli masala dosa. Must-try recipe Beetroot, rhubarb & potato gratin

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 13

Dinner dash

100g crème

Pea fusilli with ham & mustard sauce

Pasta made with gluten free veg flours such as the green pea version here are becoming widely available – give them a try.

pea pasta

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the pasta and boil for 6 mins. Meanwhile, warm the crème fraîche, mustard and ham hock in a pan, bring to a simmer then, once the pasta is cooked, drain it and tip into the ham & mustard sauce. Toss together and season well before serving. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • gluten free PER SERVING energy 579 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 16g • carbs 44g • sugars 2g • fibre 10g • protein 32g • salt 1.9g

100g cooked ham hock

wholegrain mustard

MENU DECODER

All you need to know about Bahraini cuisine

Mahyawa Mahyawa is a sauce made from salted, spiced and fermented local sardines,

that we serve with khubus, a Middle Eastern flatbread, which is a staple in Bahrain. Ash soup Ash is a thick, hearty Persian soup. Made up of lentils, herbs and noodles, it’s perfect for winter. Goat cheese & spinach kunafa Kunafa is normally an Arabic dessert made using very

14 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

fine threads of pastry and a sweet filling. I love the pastry’s crispy texture and thought a savoury kunafa would work just as well. Mathrooba is one of my signature dishes, and a traditional one in the Gulf. It’s a slow-cooked stew of chicken, cracked wheat, tomato and spinach, served with goat ghee. Hamour sayadieh Local young hamour (fish) is served with pilaf rice, crispy fried onions and pine nuts.

Machbous deyay This is a chicken pilaf and considered the national dish of Bahrain. Kalaam pilav This pilaf of kohlrabi with meatballs is an Iranian signature dish that I learned from my mother, who learned it from her mother. I used to have it a lot when I visited my family in Iran during school holidays. Ghormeh sabzi This Iranian dish is a vegan herb stew served with vermicelli and saffron rice, and it’s one of my favourites from childhood.

Photographs CAROL SACHS, EMMA BOYNS | Menu decoder compiled by ANNA

In September 2017, Bahraini chef and restaurateur Roaya Saleh brought Villa Mama’s from the Saar district of Bahrain to London’s Chelsea. Having spent her summers on the family farm while she was growing up in Bahrain and in the kitchen with her mother and grandmother, Roaya takes a seasonal, home-style approach to cooking.

update

TV CHEFS

JAMIE OLIVER’S WINTER SALAD

A deliciously simple salad to set January off with a zing! Amazing dressed beets

Sweet, sour, salty and crunchy, Jamie’s beet salad is packed with flavour and texture combinations. With just five ingredients, it’s a breeze to make. SERVES 4 TOTAL 27 mins EASY V

600g raw mixed-colour baby beets (ideally with leaves) 4 clementines ½ bunch fresh tarragon (15g) 100g crumbly goat’s cheese 40g shelled unsalted walnut halves

1 Reserving any nice smaller beet leaves, halve any larger beets and cook, covered, in a pan of boiling salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile, squeeze the juice of 1 clementine into a large bowl with 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and a good splash of red wine vinegar. Peel the remaining 3 clementines, slice into fine rounds and arrange on your plates. 2 Drain the beets and briefly refresh in cold water until cool enough to quickly rub off the skins. Halve or slice a few, then toss them all in the dressing. Taste, season to perfection with sea salt and black pepper, then pick in the tarragon and toss with the reserved beet leaves. Divide between your plates, crumble over the goat’s cheese and walnuts, and drizzle lightly with extra virgin olive oil. PER SERVING 263 kcals • fat 18.1g • saturates 5.9g • carbs 16.1g • sugars 14.9g • fibre 3.7g • protein 9.8g • salt 0.6g

5 Ingredients – Quick & Easy Food by Jamie Oliver is published by Penguin Random House. Recipe © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited, Photography © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited, by David Loftus (2017). You can catch Jamie and Jimmy’s Friday Night Feast on Fridays at 8pm on Channel 4.

TV EDITOR’S PICKS

What’s cooking across the BBC TOM KERRIDGE: LOSE WEIGHT FOR GOOD Viewers who’ve marveled over Tom Kerridge’s astonishing 12-stone weight loss won’t want to miss this. Tom will be supporting 13 volunteers on a weight loss programme by teaching them low calorie recipes which don’t compromise on flavour. On Wednesdays at 8pm on BBC Two.

BACK IN TIME FOR TEA From tripe to microwave chips, Bradford family Ellis go culinary time travelling, experiencing the challenges of Northern working-class family life from 1918 to 1999. It’s not all grim up north though, with pub grub and seaside fun for all. Starts soon on BBC Two. Kathryn Custance

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 15

GIN O’CLOCK

Treacle tart with bergamot jam & clotted cream

Toad

Another month, another gin. This column celebrates this national obsession by exploring new gins from around the UK Made in Oxford’s first distillery, Toad Dry Gin (£39.50) has solid artisan and sustainable credentials, distilled from seeds of ancient grain grown within a 50-mile radius. Some of the botanicals are from Oxford Botanical Gardens, others foraged by the Master Distiller in local forest and include meadowsweet and dried bitter orange. This one’s a Friday nighter – it’s potent (46%). (spiritoftoad.com) BEER GOGGLES

Blue Moon

If you need an excuse to forgo Dry January, Blue Moon is it. The refreshing wheat beer is full of citrus tang and is best served with a slice of orange. Inspired by Belgian wheat beer, Blue Moon got its name after brewer Keith Villa tried it out on his friends in Denver, Colorado. One took a sip and exclaimed, ‘A beer as good as this only comes around once in a blue moon!’

FLAVOUR NOTES

Orange, coriander and white pepper. Soft mouthfeel due to the oats.

BEST DRUNK WITH…

Very versatile – as good with Belgian mussels as it is Thai green curry. Thanks to stbartsbrewery.com and beer sommeliers brewandpress.co.uk.

wine

CHEF’S GUIDE TO ...

ANCHESTER M by Adam Reid @adschef

BBC Great British Menu finalist and head chef of The French on the city’s thriving food scene Mancunian diners – and the Manchester dining scene – are unique. It’s a mixed bag here! There’s a big weekend bar scene, and a growing appreciation for fine dining. At the same time, the informal dining scene is emerging, so it’s an exciting time. At The French (thefrench.co.uk), we’ve created a more relaxed environment over the last year, with chefs delivering many of the dishes to the table, and a chefs’ counter in the dining room has added a sense of theatre. My three favourite dishes on the menu are tater’ash, my take on the Northern classic; almond poached cod with leeks and smoked roe, and ‘Easy peeler’, a sugar ‘satsuma’ filled with white chocolate cream and sea buckthorn sorbet.

in partnership with

Save on this warming Grenache-based red when you buy a case of red wine (there’s also mixed and white cases on offer) – turn to page 102 for details.

16 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Sugar-blown clementine

We have a lot of playful twists on Northern recipes using classic flavours to give people a sense of nostalgia. They’re a mix of different

influences – both refined cooking and flavours from my childhood. Tater’ash is a home cooked staple around Manchester and the North. I serve it with Mrs Raffalde’s mushroom catsup, the original recipe for ketchup from the 1800s. You can make tater’ash at home – it’s easy! Take equal amounts of good beef mince, diced waxy potato and diced onions; cook the mince and onions, add potatoes and cover with beef stock. Add a tablespoon of Bovril, black pepper and salt to taste, then simmer for two-three hours. Manchester’s best dish is plate pie – an enamel plate filled with meat, potato and onion and covered with a thick pastry crust. If I’m eating out, I love the brunch at PKB (potkettleblackltd.co.uk) and lunch at Yuzu (yuzumanchester. co.uk). I also love the bread at Pollen Bakery (pollenbakery.com).

update Quinten cheeseboard, £128, Anthropologie Take your cheeseboard up a notch in the style stakes with this fashionable brass, marble and wooden platter.

Tinned tea blends, £2.98 each, for stockists see sostrene green.com Delicious teas in stylish tins that can happily sit on display.

Four-pack wooden coasters, £8.99, H&M Home Bring a touch of Scandi warmth into your home.

Iris pot holders, £1.50 for two, Ikea Functional as well as fashionable, these bring understated style to the kitchen.

Barista & co eightcup gold cafetière, £39.95, trouva.com Add a touch of class to your morning coffee.

EXPERT SHOPPER STYLIST SARAH BIRKS

Treat yourself to cosy comfort Sarah Birks is a freelance stylist and art director specialising in food and lifestyle content. Originally from Australia, Sarah has lived in London for over 13 years and has worked as a creative with numerous food brands and magazine titles. She loves all things colour and cooking. You can follow her on instragram @sebirks.

Elliot cookware, from £25, Habitat Easy one-pot dishes from oven to table.

Egg cup, £18, noton thehighstreet.com For those times when only boiled egg and soldiers will do.

White porcelain alphabet mugs, £12.95, grahamandgreen.co.uk Never mix up teas again!

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE

Octopus with smashed potatoes from Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta

The best thing about cooking octopus is Nuno is famous for A-listers’ that everyone gets a leg. Or is it an arm? favourite restaurant, Chiltern Anyway, there’s lots to go around – if, Firehouse in Marylebone. But indeed, everyone wants a sucker-laden in Lisboeta, he’s gone back to his limb in the first place. Which my wife roots. The pages are packed with and three teenage kids were distinctly Portuguese classics, including pasteis nervous about. de nata – Lisbon’s famous custard I’d never cooked octopus before. tarts – and chanfana (lamb stew). Didn’t know how. I’d eaten it twice But it was the chef’s tentacles that before: once on holiday in Greece tantalised my tastebuds. A scan of (rubbery) and again at Neil Rankin’s the ingredients list was a pleasant Indian smokehouse, Temper City surprise, comprising everything I (mouth-meltingly tender). So when had in my kitchen: potatoes, garlic, I saw a recipe for octopus with smashed Keith’s version of the onions, coriander, olive oil. All bar potatoes and piso in Portugeuse finished dish one: octopus. Where, outside of maestro Nuno Mendes’s new cookbook, Blue Planet II, do you source a fresh Lisboeta, I wanted to see if I could cook a octopus? Supermarkets drew a blank and a traipse cephalopod at home. around fishmongers was met with shaking heads. But

For the playgrounds that go on forever...

Lisboeta by Nuno Mendes is out now (£26, Bloomsbury)

Photograph ANDREW MONTGOMERY

Each month editor, Keith Kendrick, tests a recipe from a new cookbook

update

eventually I found one who promised to get me an octopus from the dawn fish market – only to come back with a frozen one. Price: £13.91 which, given it was going to serve five people, didn’t seem outlandish. After defrosting, the beast flopped onto my work surface like a slimy creation from Alien. But after dunking in a pan of boiling stock a couple of times, it transformed from a gelatinous pink glob into the purple-hued thing of beauty you see in restaurants. After a few hours of cooking and chilling, I chopped off the head and sliced the firm tentacles into chunks, ready for their final cooking process, lain atop smashed, skin-on potatoes, before serving dressed with piso – a mash-up of coriander, lemon, garlic and olive oil.

The verdict

The octopus was crispy on the outside, tender in the middle – and far easier to cook than I was expecting. Sadly, my children weren’t quite ready for the experience, so I rustled up potatoes with caramelised onions & melting cheese from Lisboeta for them instead.

‘Where, outside of Blue Planet II, do you source a fresh octopus?’

...for

one

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update MORE FROM GF COCKTAIL CLASSICS

Whiskey sour

GOOD FOOD HEALTHY MAG

Each month drinks expert Alice Lascelles showcases one classic cocktail and three exciting twists photograph EMMA BOYNS

It is possible to make a whiskey sour without egg white, but you won’t get that fullbodied texture that makes this drink so satisfying, so be brave and don’t leave it out. There are companies that do dried egg white and bottled, long-life egg-white, but there’s no substitute for a good, fresh egg. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

50ml bourbon 35ml lemon juice 12.5ml 2:1 sugar syrup (see tip, below) 2 dashes Angostura Bitters 1 /2 fresh egg white ice 50p-sized piece of lemon zest For the garnish slice of orange and a cherry on a stick

Shake all of the ingredients (except for the lemon zest) hard with ice and strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Squeeze the lemon zest, shiny side down over the drink so the scented oils spray across the surface. Discard the zest, add the garnish and serve.

With over 85 feelgood recipes, this collection has all the warming and nutritious recipes you need for eating well in 2018. On sale now, £3.90.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING energy 171 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt none

Pork & apple stew with parsley & thyme dumplings

New York sour This twist on a whiskey sour, which comes topped with a float of red wine, is possibly even better than the whiskey sour itself. Simply make your whiskey sour as usual, and then pour 25ml of red wine over the back of the spoon onto the surface of the drink, so it rests on the top in a crimson layer. For best results, use something reasonably fruity like a shiraz or a merlot. This also works with port.

tip

To make a 2:1 sugar syrup, tip 200g caster sugar into a saucepan and pour over 100ml water. Stir and heat gently over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Leave to cool, then store in the fridge. Alice Lascelles is a drinks columnist for the Financial Times and the author of Ten Cocktails: The Art of Convivial Drinking (£16.99, Saltyard). @alicelascelles

20 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Whiskey & ginger sour Whiskey, ginger and lemon are natural partners, so try adding a dash of ginger liqueur – King’s Ginger Liqueur, which was created for King Edward VII in 1903, is top notch. Amaretto sour In this recipe by American bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the bracing whiskey sour reveals a sweeter, more indulgent side thanks to the addition of amaretto, an Italian liqueur that tastes of almonds.

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HOW-TO VIDEOS

Sharpen your skills with our cookery videos. Find over 200 recipes and techniques at bbcgood food.com/feature/videos.

Shoot director MIRIAM NICE | Photograph EMMA BOYNS | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

3 TWISTS

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Comfort healthy twist with a

Everything you could want this month – warming, substantial food that’s even a little bit virtuous

recipes LULU GRIMES, SOPHIE GODWIN, MIRIAM NICE and ELENA SILCOCK photographs TOM REGESTER

ur cookery team have created hearty, comforting dishes peppered with healthy twists to keep you feeling good as well as cosy. Get all your daily veg from the chicken traybake, and the burritos might be the best use yet for brazil nuts. Even

swede-haters will love our pappardelle, and the butternut Bakewell is the perfect January treat – the combination of spelt flour and squash makes it densely rich and satisfying. Get everyone round the table and serve delicious veg-packed seasonal food and we’ll all get through January together.

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 23

5-a-day chicken with kale & pistachio pesto

Eat your 5-a-day in one meal with this delicious veg-packed traybake. If you’re vegetarian, simply leave out the chicken and use veggie parmesan. SERVES 3-4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY

olive oil 500g butternut squash, peeled and cut into thin slices (keep the seeds if you like and toast them on a separate tray to scatter over the finished dish) 200g shallots, peeled and halved 300g leeks, use baby leeks or cut large ones into lengths and halve them 300g carrots, use baby ones or cut them into long batons 400g fennel, cut into long wedges 1 garlic bulb, halved through the middle

3-4 large or 6-8 small chicken thighs (depending on whether you’re serving 3 or 4), skin patted dry For the pesto 200g chopped kale, woody stalks removed 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp pistachio kernels 2 tbsp grated parmesan 1 /2 lemon, juiced 60ml olive oil

Dry the chicken skin thoroughly with kitchen paper to make sure it crisps up

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put all the veg for the bake except the garlic in a large bowl and add 1 tbsp olive oil, then carefully turn everything over with your hands so the oil adds a very thin coating. Lightly oil the tray as well if you are worried about things sticking. 2 Arrange the veg in piles on the tray, or scatter it all over if you prefer. Add the garlic halves and the chicken, sitting the chicken on top of the veg. Season well and bake for 40 mins then, if the chicken skin is still pale, either turn the oven up or turn it onto the grill setting, and cook or grill until it is nicely browned. 3 Meanwhile, make the pesto. Whizz the kale, garlic and pistachios until everything is finely chopped. Add the parmesan, lemon juice and olive oil and whizz again. Any left over will keep in a jar for up to three days in the fridge. Serve the chicken and veg with the pesto spooned over. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 5 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 698 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 9g • carbs 34g • sugars 18g • fibre 16g • protein 42g • salt 0.7g

Eating your 5-a-day

Eating five portions of fruit and veg can be trickier than you think with some ingredients. For example, you need to eat a whole onion or eight spring onions each, which bulks up a recipe considerably, so instead swap these with one leek each. Butternut squash and carrots are also easy wins – you need three tablespoons of each per person. When it comes to greens, you need a whole cereal bowl of raw leaves such as spinach, but only two tablespoons of cooked spinach. Cooked kale and spring greens are also manageable at four tablespoons per person.

24 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

healthy comfort

make our cover recipe

To keep this at 5-a-day if you leave one veg out, replace it with a different one

You could also use the same quantity of cavolo nero or greens instead of kale in the pesto

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 25

Brazil nut burritos

As well as adding protein, Brazil nuts contain all sorts of important minerals and nutrients like magnesium, selenium, zinc, calcium, and vitamin E. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

50g brazil nuts, roughly chopped large handful kale, woody stalks removed and leaves shredded 1 lime, juiced 4 large or 8 small wholemeal tortilla wraps 1 /2 pack coriander

tomato burrito rice (see recipe, below) brazil nut refried beans (see recipe, below) 1 yellow pepper, sliced 1 avocado, sliced (optional) easy cheese dressing (see recipe, below) hot sauce, to serve

1 Toast the brazil nuts in a dry frying pan until golden, then set aside. 2 Put the kale in a bowl and squeeze over half the lime juice. Scrunch together with your hands to soften the leaves a little. 3 Lay out the tortilla wraps and divide all of the ingredients between them, including the remaining lime juice between them and season. Fold in the ends and roll them up to close in a tight fat cylinder shape. You may find it easier to wrap in foil too or toast them in a dry frying pan to lightly brown the burritos and seal in the fillings, if you like. Cut each one in half before serving. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 858 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 12g • carbs 108g • sugars 13g • fibre 15g • protein 25g • salt 1.6g

Tomato burrito rice SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 red chilli, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp each ground cumin, coriander, smoked paprika

1 small pack coriander, stalks and leaves chopped separately 1 tsp chipotle paste 400g can chopped tomatoes 250g wholegrain rice

Heat the oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Fry for 5 mins over a medium heat or until starting to soften, then add the chilli, fry for another 2 mins, then add the garlic, spices, coriander stalks and chipotle paste. Stir well and sizzle for a min or so, then tip in the tomatoes. Fill the can with water, pour that in, refill the can halfway with water, add that too, then the rice. Mix well, bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer for 25-30 mins,

26 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

covered with a lid, until the rice is tender and the liquid has all been absorbed. Stir through the coriander leaves. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 288 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 53g • sugars 7g • fibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g

Brazil nut refried beans The Brazil nuts add a buttery richness to these spiced beans. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

4 Brazil nuts 400g can kidney beans 1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tsp each ground cumin, ground coriander and smoked paprika 2 limes, juiced

Crush the brazil nuts, with a pestle and mortar or in a mini food processor, to a coarse paste. Tip into a saucepan, then add the kidney beans, including the liquid from the can. Fill the can halfway

with water and add that too. Stir well, then add the rest of the ingredients except for the lime juice. Heat gently for 15 mins, then mash the beans with a potato masher until they have a loose porridge-like consistency. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is still soft, but not runny, then add the lime juice and seasoning to taste. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 123 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 9g • sugars 1g • fibre 6g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

Easy cheese dressing

A lighter alternative to sour cream and grated cheese SERVES 4 PREP 2 mins NO COOK EASY V

Whisk 150g cream cheese together with 50ml milk until smooth, then cover and set aside in the fridge until needed. PER SERVING 102 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.3g

healthy comfort

Eat fresh or lightly toast the rolled wraps

Three tablespoons of kidney beans counts as 1 of your 5-a-day

For a vegan alternative to the easy cheese dressing, make our vegan cream cheese at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ vegan-cashew-creamcheese and thin it out with a splash of dairy-free milk

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 27

Leaving the centre open gives crisper pastry and makes a striking centrepiece

Properly cooked pastry should be dark golden

Open leek & sweet potato pie, p30 28 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

healthy comfort

Leave a few shells on for decoration

New England clam chowder, p30 JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 29

Open leek & sweet potato pie Pie is the ultimate comfort food and this veggie one-pot doesn’t disappoint. Using filo pastry rather than puff or shortcrust is a simple way to cut down on fat without compromising on flavour. We’ve swapped butter for oil to brush in between the layers and packed the pie full of veg. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing 2 large leeks, washed and sliced 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped into 2cm cubes 1 tsp each coriander seeds and chilli flakes 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed 150g ricotta 2 large eggs

1 lemon, zested 100g robust leafy greens such as cavalo nero or kale, finely shredded, tough core removed 1 small pack dill, chopped 1 pack filo pastry (around 12 sheets) 80g goat’s cheese 1 tsp nigella seeds (optional) peppery salad, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt, then cook over a medium heat for a couple of mins until beginning to wilt. Tip in the sweet potato, cover the pan then cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 mins until the potato is mostly softened. Stir in the coriander seeds, chilli flakes, garlic and season. Give everything a gentle stir – you want the potato to remain intact as much as possible – then remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. 2 In a large bowl, whisk together the ricotta, eggs and lemon zest with some seasoning. Stir in the greens and dill, then scrape in the sweet potato filling, (set aside the frying pan afterwards) and fold everything together. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 3 Lay your first sheet of filo in the frying pan you used for the sweet potato (no need to wash it first). Brush the top with a little oil, then continue to layer the filo, setting each sheet at a different angle and oiling in between the layers until all edges of the pan are covered. Spoon the filling on top of the pastry, dot over the goat’s cheese, then crumple the pastry in over the filling, leaving the centre of the pie exposed. Brush the top with a little more oil and scatter over the nigella seeds, if using. 4 Turn the hob back on and cook the pie over a medium-low heat for 3 mins to ensure the base is crisp, then transfer to the oven and bake for 12-15 mins until the pastry is crisp and golden. Let the pie cool in the pan for 10 mins before slicing. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 523 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 6g • carbs 70g • sugars 12g • fibre 8g • protein 18g • salt 1.3g

New England clam chowder Blitzing half of the veg thickens the chowder, giving it a rich and creamy consistency without the need for flour (or cornflour) and butter, as traditional methods suggest. It’s also finished with crème fraîche rather than double cream, lightening the soup, and its natural sharpness complements the sweet parsnips. SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins EASY

2kg clams 1 bay leaf 500g potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes around 1cm 300g parsnips, cut into 1cm cubes

/2 tbsp olive oil 100g unsmoked bacon lardons 1 onion, finely chopped 100g crème fraîche lemon, to taste chives, to serve 1

1 Heat 1 litre of water in a large pan over a high heat. Once boiling, tip in the clams. Cover with a lid and cook for 2-3 mins until the majority of the clam shells have opened. Pour into a sieve over a large jug, reserving the cooking water. Tip the reserved liquid through a muslin-lined sieve into a large non-stick saucepan and set aside – this is your stock for the soup. 2 Discard any clams which haven’t opened, then remove three-quarters of the clams from their shells and roughly chop. 3 Put the bay leaf in the pan with the clam stock and tip in the potato and parsnip cubes. Cook for 5-7 mins until tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove half of the potato and parsnip and set aside. Fish out the bay leaf, spoon off any scum from the surface of the soup, then blitz the remaining stock and vegetables in a food processor until smooth, or using a stick blender. 4 Using the same saucepan over a medium heat, pour in the oil, add the bacon lardons, fry until crisp, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onion to the pan, cook for 5 mins until soft, then pour in the blitzed chowder, potato and parsnip. Heat until simmering, then tip in the chopped clams, take off the heat and stir through the crème fraîche, adding lemon juice to taste. Serve, topped with the crispy bacon, reserved clams in their shells and a scattering of chives and black pepper. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 303 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 6g • carbs 25g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 17g • salt 1.8g

30 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

healthy comfort

Half pasta, half swede ribbons – genius

Duck ragu with pappardelle & swede SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hour 20 mins EASY G ragu only

Pasta is the ultimate comfort food and substituting half your pasta for swede ribbons and the breast of the duck rather than the leg makes this a leaner, but equally delicious, ragu. If you have time, make a day ahead, as the sauce will develop in flavour and taste even better the next day. For the ragu 2 tbsp olive oil 2 duck breasts, skin removed 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tsp fennel seeds 2 garlic cloves 1 bay leaf 1 /2 small pack parsley, leaves picked and stalks finely chopped 8 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 150ml red wine 1 tbsp tomato purée

400g can plum tomatoes 200ml stock 1 tsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp raisins toasted pine nuts and parmesan, to serve For the pasta 200g fresh pappardelle (go to bbcgoodfood.com for a recipe if you want to make your own) 750g swede (1 large or 2 small) peeled, then cut into thick ribbons using a vegetable peeler

1 Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a large frying pan over a high heat and fry the duck breasts for 2 mins on either side until well browned, then set aside. Tip the fat from the pan into a saucepan, and turn the heat down to medium, then add the rest of the olive oil. Tip the onion and fennel seeds into the saucepan, add a large pinch of salt and cook for 5 mins until the onion is starting to soften. Crush in the garlic cloves, then add the bay leaf, parsley stalks and thyme leaves. Stir well and cook for 2 mins more. 2 Turn the heat up, then pour in the red wine and cook for 2 mins until it has reduced a little. Spoon in the tomato purée and tip in the can of tomatoes along with the stock, stir and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to low and return the duck breasts to the pan, cover and simmer very gently for 40-45 mins or until the meat is tender. 3 Remove the duck breasts with a slotted spoon, put in a bowl, turn the heat up and reduce the tomato sauce for 10 mins until thick enough to coat your pasta. Use two forks to shred the duck, then tip the meat back into the sauce. Add the red wine vinegar and raisins, then season to taste. Set aside. 4 When ready to serve, cook your pasta. Heat a large pan of well salted water, add the pappardelle and cook following pack instructions. For the final minute of cooking time, drop in the swede. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the pasta water to add to the sauce. Toss the pasta and swede through the sauce. Divide between bowls and top with the toasted pine nuts, parmesan and a scattering of parley leaves. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 471 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 49g • sugars 21g • fibre 9g • protein 32g • salt 0.5g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 31

healthy comfort

Combining all the elements of a Bakewell slice with a slightly healthier twist. We’ve replaced white flour with light spelt, which contains more whole grains and adds nuttiness. Butternut squash is used for natural sweetness, meaning the bars have less refined sugar. SERVES 20 PREP 45 mins plus 2 hrs chilling COOK 1 hour 50 mins MORE EFFORT V

Seville orange marmalade, for spreading For the sponge filling 1 small butternut squash 200g pecans 100g softened butter 150g light brown sugar 2 large eggs 1 tsp cinnamon 150g light spelt flour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 1 orange, zested

For the pastry 250g light spelt flour 150g cold butter, cut into cubes 1 egg yolk For the topping 50g icing sugar good pinch cinnamon a few pecans, toasted and roughly chopped

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Halve the butternut lengthways, scrape out and discard the pith and seeds, then put in a roasting tin, cut-side down. Roast in the oven for 1 hr 10 mins until completely soft. When it has 20 mins left, cook the pecans on a baking tray in the oven, then leave to cool. Scrape the flesh out of the butternut and purée in a food processor. Set both aside to cool. The purée and pecans can be prepared up to three days ahead. 2 For the pastry, blitz together the flour, butter and a pinch of salt in a food processor until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the egg and pulse until the pastry comes together. Wrap in cling film and chill for 2 hrs. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Butter and line a 20 x 30cm loose-bottomed baking tin. Roll out the pastry, then lift into the tin. Don’t worry if it falls apart a little, patch it up with your fingers and press down into the corners. Chill for 20 mins, then prick the base all over with a fork and bake for 10-12 mins until lightly coloured. Reduce oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 4 Grind the pecans in a food processor, then tip into a large bowl with all the sponge filling ingredients and a pinch of salt. Beat with an electric whisk until well combined. Warm the marmalade, then spread over the pastry. Smooth the cake batter on top and bake for 20-25 mins. Leave to cool. 5 Mix the icing sugar with the cinnamon and enough water to make a thick drizzling consistency. Drizzle over the cake and scatter over the pecans. Once the icing is set, cut into 20 bars. PER SERVING 299 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 7g • carbs 27g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g

32 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Shoot director MARTIN TOPPING | Food stylist JENNIFER JOYCE | Stylist LUIS PERAL

Butternut Bakewell bars

opinion

Victoria Moore

Have you tried hairy-chested wines? Seriously! They’re big, bulky and a little bit shaggy – perfect for bleak January nights @how_to_drink

@planetvictoria

atie Jones is an Englishwoman who followed her A third category of red that you might seek out is the bear-hug dream to move to a tiny village in a remote part wine. Bold but snuggly, these taste sweetly ripe and warm, of the Languedoc. She makes gorgeous fitou that and lack the just-below-the-surface potential aggression is succulent and smells of the herbs that grow of hairy-chested wines. The great Aussie cabernet sauvignonamong the rocks of the parched hillsides. Last time shiraz blend is a classic bear-hug of a wine, and Penfolds I met her, she told me she was working on a new wine Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2014 Australia (£9, with a rather unromantic name – Hairy Grenache. Tesco) is pretty much the archetype. Chilean cabernetI totally get why. Grenache can have a hairy sort carmenère is another typical example, as is grenache of a feel to it, or at least a texture that I sometimes grown in the baking warmth of the McLaren Vale or Hairydescribe to myself as ‘suedey’ or ‘like a pom-pom’. the Barossa Valley in Australia, which tastes of chested Hairy or otherwise, grenache is a wine that seems roasted mulberries and soaks you with warmth reds – big, to soak in the summer sunshine and keep it until like tropical rain. opened, giving you back the warm breeze of a sultry I can’t quite decide which of these three categories bulky, August evening even in the depths of winter. This is my favourite of Katie Jones’s wines fits into. But if shaggy, especially true when it comes from the southern you happen to be on a ‘drink less but drink better’ even Rhône or the Languedoc. Look for wines like Le mission for January, then I can’t recommend Domaine slightly Clairon des Anges Costières de Nîmes 2015 France Jones Fitou 2014 France (£14.50, The Wine Society). surly – (£8.50, Booths) – a blend of grenache and syrah. It’s a hearty red made from carignan, grenache and are good The word ‘hairy’ usually only appears in my syrah, most of which are grown on vines that are for cold tasting notes in association with the word ‘chest’. more than 100 years old. The flavour of the wine is Yes, I’m still talking about wine. Hairy-chested reminiscent of dried figs, and the texture is gorgeously nights reds – big, bulky, shaggy, even slightly surly – are lush. Katie recommends drinking it with a wild boar another wine type good for cold January nights, stew or steak and ale pie. Who’s cooking? bringing a reassuringly gruff presence to your glass. next For affordable luxury, Victoria They may perhaps come from the Douro in Portugal, month recommends sherry. a craggy part of the Languedoc, or Nemea in Greece, and I’ve definitely had a few hairy-chested Chilean carménères. Try Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author. the spicy Taste the Difference Quinta do Crasto 2015 Portugal Her new book, The Wine Dine Dictionary (£20, Granta), is out now. (£9, Sainsbury’s) which is made in the Douro from port grapes.

Portrait CLARA MOLDEN

This month I’m drinking…

Waitrose White Burgundy 2016 France (£4.99 for 375ml, Waitrose) Avoid the low-cal, low-alcohol wines that are cropping up on supermarket shelves. The best way to drink less is to put less in your glass – that way you don’t have to compromise on flavour. This creamy white burgundy is new to Waitrose and is available in half bottles.

What to eat with…

+ +

Silene Limoux Chardonnay 2016 France (£9.99, Co-op) Limoux is still one of France’s best-kept secrets, producing great sparkling wine and chardonnay. Try this with the clam chowder on p30. Ananto Bobal Tempranillo 2016 Spain (£8, Booths) A juicy blend of rioja grapes and gruff bobal. Swig with Tom Kerridge’s sausage & butter bean casserole (p106).

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 33

&family weekdays

easiest-ever

Take the pressure off busy working days with our simple recipes for five-ingredient meals, effortless one-pots and family-friendly dinners

16 simple, value recipes

family one-pots Halloumi traybake, p46

5 ingredients Hummus & chickpea subs, p36

ridiculously easy Nadiyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen

Baked paella p42

How to be a vegan family, p53 JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 35

5-INGREDIENT SUPPERS

Make dinner a breeze with these deceptively simple, full flavoured recipes, each using only 5 things you need to shop for

recipes SOPHIE GODWIN and ELENA SILCOCK photography STUART OVENDEN

veg-packed sarnie

£1.88 per serving

Beet hummus & crispy chickpeas subs SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins V

good to know

Oil, vinegar, salt and pepper all count as storecupboard ingredients, we assume you’ll have these.

300g pack cooked beetroot in water, drained, half sliced 400g can chickpeas, drained 3 tbsp vegetarian pesto olive oil splash of vinegar (white wine vinegar if you have it) 2 large ciabatta rolls, sliced in half 2 large handfuls mixed rocket, watercress & spinach salad

36 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 Blitz the whole beetroot, 3/4 of the chickpeas, 2 tbsp pesto and 1 tbsp oil in a food processor with some seasoning until you have a thick, smooth hummus. Heat the ciabatta following the pack instructions. 2 Fry the remaining chickpeas in a little oil until crisp, then set aside. Toss the salad leaves with the remaining pesto and a splash of vinegar. Slice the rolls, then assemble the sandwiches with the hummus, beet slices, salad leaves and fried chickpeas. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • calcium • folate • fibre • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING energy 639 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 3g • carbs 77g • sugars 16g • fibre 14g • protein 24g • salt 1.6g

easiest ever

White fish with sesame noodles SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

150g soba or wholewheat noodles (300g if using pre-cooked) 25g toasted sesame seeds, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp oil 1 tsp rice vinegar (or any white vinegar) 200g spinach leaves 2 seabass fillets

treat yourself

£3.80 per serving

1 Use a spice grinder or pestle and mortar to crush the sesame seeds, then stir in the soy sauce, oil, 1 tbsp of water and a splash of rice vinegar, to make a creamy dressing, season and set aside. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the noodles and cook following pack instructions, then drain and set aside. Using the same pan, tip in all the spinach and cook until reduced down and dark green. Tip in the noodles, along with the sesame dressing and a splash of water and toss well to heat through. 2 Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium to high heat. Season the skin of the seabass, then place in the pan skin-side down, fry until the skin has crisped up and the flesh has nearly all turned opaque, around 3 mins. Flip over and fry for 30 seconds further, until the fish is flaking and cooked through. Divide the noodles and greens between two bowls and place the fish on top. Scatter over the toasted sesame seeds and serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING energy 624 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 54g • sugars 3g • fibre 7g • protein 45g • salt 4.1g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 37

Red pepper linguine SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

1 roasted red pepper (from a jar or roast one yourself) 50g walnuts, toasted, plus extra to serve 1 small garlic clove 100g linguine or spaghetti parmesan or vegetarian alternative, grated, to serve

1 Blitz the roasted red pepper with 30ml olive oil, the walnuts and the garlic in a food processor, season well and set aside. 2 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the pasta and cook for 1 min less than the pack instructions and drain, reserving a ladleful of cooking water. Tip the pasta back into the pan, along with the reserved cooking water and red pepper sauce, and return to the heat to warm through. Tip the pasta into a bowl and top with the parmesan and some chopped toasted walnuts. Season and serve. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING energy 1,011 kcals • fat 66g • saturates 8g • carbs 78g • sugars 3g • fibre 7g • protein 23g • salt 0.2g

dinner for 1 £2 per serving

38 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

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easiest ever

Curried cauliflower & lentil soup SERVES 3-4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 cauliflower 2 tsp fennel seeds 150g red lentils 3 tbsp curry paste of your choice ½ lemon, juiced

1 Remove the outer leaves from the cauliflower, cut off the stalk and roughly chop, then cut the head into small florets. Toss a quarter of the florets in 1 tbsp oil and 1 tsp of the fennel seeds, season well, then tip into a roasting tin and set aside. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Heat 1/2 tbsp oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and add the remaining fennel seeds, toast for 2 mins, then add the lentils and the remaining cauliflower. Stir in the curry paste, then add 1 litre water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 25 mins until the cauliflower is tender and the lentils are cooked through. 3 Meanwhile, put the roasting tin of cauliflower in the oven and cook for 20 mins until crisp and slightly charred. Tip the soup mixture into a food processor and blitz until smooth, tip back into the pan to warm through, adding the lemon juice and a little water if it’s too thick. Tip into bowls and top with the crispy cauliflower and fennel seeds to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (4) energy 242 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 27g • sugars 5g fibre 6g • protein 13g • salt 0.5g

healthy and comforting

70p per serving

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Garlic chicken parcels SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

2 chicken breasts 320g sheet all butter puff pastry 150g Boursin or garlic & herb cream cheese ½ lemon, zested and cut into wedges to serve 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing 200g mixed pack green beans and broccoli

crowd pleaser £1.28 per serving

Friday night special

£3.50 per serving

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C Fan/gas 7. Cut a slit halfway in each chicken breast, then put each one between two pieces of baking parchment and bash with a rolling pin to flatten it slightly. 2 Cut your sheet of pastry in half widthways and put both halves on a baking tray. Sit a chicken breast on top of each half, then cram the cavities with the Boursin (don’t worry if a bit of cheese oozes out). Season, scatter over the lemon zest then fold the edges of the pastry in to the centre and pinch shut. Flip each parcel over so the seal is on the bottom. Brush with a little oil, then bake for 30 mins until deep golden. 3 About 10 mins before your parcels are ready, steam or boil the greens until tender. Toss in the oil and season. Serve alongside your chicken parcels with lemon wedges for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING energy 1,115 kcals • fat 80g • saturates 41g • carbs 57g • sugars 6g • fibre 8g • protein 48g • salt 2.4g

Chorizo & pea risotto 1 tbsp oil 200g chorizo, peeled and chopped 300g arborio risotto rice 2 tbsp vinegar (white wine vinegar if you have it)

1.2 litres chicken stock (fresh is best), heated until simmering 200g frozen peas 60g parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan, tip in the chorizo and fry until it is crisp and all the oil has been released. Remove a quarter of the chorizo with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Tip the rice into the pan, stir to coat it in the oil and toast for a min or so, then pour in the vinegar. Once the vinegar has evaporated, add a ladleful of the stock, stir then, once absorbed, add a bit more. Continue doing this for about 20 mins until most of the stock has been absorbed and the rice has swollen but still has a slight bite. 3 Tip in the peas, parmesan and the remaining stock. Give everything a good stir. Once the cheese has melted, season with black pepper, then divide between bowls, topping each portion with the remaining crisp chorizo and extra grated parmesan. GOOD TO KNOW fibre PER SERVING energy 642 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 10g • carbs 68g • sugars 4g • fibre 6g • protein 34g • salt 2.8g

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Shoot director GARETH JONES | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Prop stylist FAYE WEARS

SERVES 4 PREP 5mins COOK 30mins EASY

easiest ever

one-pan wonder

£2.10 per serving

Smoked mackerel & leek hash with horseradish SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

250g new potatoes, halved 2 tbsp oil 2 large leeks, thinly sliced 4 eggs 100g peppered smoked mackerel, skin removed 2 tbsp creamed horseradish

1 Put the potatoes in a microwaveable bowl with a splash of water, cover, then cook on high for 5 mins until tender (or steam or simmer them). 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat, add the leeks with a pinch of salt and cook for 10 mins, stirring so they don’t stick, until softened. Tip in the potatoes, turn up the heat and fry for a couple of mins to crisp them up a bit. Flake through the mackerel. 3 Make four indents in the leek mixture in the pan, crack an egg into each, season, then cover the pan and cook for 6-8 mins until the whites have set and the yolks are runny. Serve the horseradish on the si de, with the pan in the middle of the table. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING energy 546 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 6g • carbs 25g • sugars 7g • fibre 7g • protein 29g • salt 1.7g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 41

R I D I C U L O U S LY E A S Y

PAELLA

Each month, Good Food legend Orlando Murrin shares a quick-fix recipe that delivers impressive results photographs TOM REGESTER

aella is easier to make than risotto – for one thing, no need for all that stirring – and much more satisfying on a winter’s evening. I have no hesitation in presenting a version that is so straightforward and foolproof that you could pretty much make it in your siesta: the whole operation is done in the oven, in one baking dish. This is an extremely flexible dish, and it’s easy to adapt according to what you have in the fridge, and the family’s

preferences. You can scale it up or down (timings remain the same), and dial up or down the luxury (by which I mean the saffron and prawns). Serve it piping hot from the baking dish, just as it is, or with crusty bread and a salad. That being said, two things matter: you need to use paella rice – no other will do – and don’t skimp on the chorizo. Paella is best eaten straight away, hot from the oven – reheating is inclined to make it stodgy.

Paella in the oven SERVES 4 easily halved or doubled PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY

Orlando Murrin, food writer and former Good Food editor, has run gastro-hotels in France and Somerset. @OrlandoMurrin

4 chicken thighs (skin on or boneless), cut in half 200g chorizo, sliced 150g raw king prawns, leave the shell on a few if you prefer good handful of frozen peas 1 lemon, quartered (optional)

1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 8. Put the chopped tomatoes (including their juice), stock, paprika and saffron in a large heatproof jug or bowl and microwave for about 5 mins on high until steaming hot. 2 Tip the onion and garlic into a generous roasting tin or ovenproof dish, drizzle over the oil and mix to coat. Cook in the oven for 20 mins until beginning to brown. 3 Stir in the rice, chicken, chorizo and hot stock mixture, season well and return to the oven for 20 mins (don’t cover). 4 Stir in the peeled prawns and peas, dot any shell-on prawns on top, and return to the oven for 5-10 mins until the rice, chicken and prawns are cooked through. If serving with lemon, a nice touch is to pop the lemon slices on top of the paella for the last 5 mins of cooking, to make them hot and juicy. Check the seasoning and serve at once. GOOD TO KNOW fibre PER SERVING energy 642 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 10g • carbs 68g • sugars 4g • fibre 6g • protein 34g • salt 2.8g

customise it... z If you have 250g cherry tomatoes to hand, cook them with the onions in step 2, omit the can of tomatoes and increase the stock to 1 litre.

z You can spice up this dish by adding a good pinch of chilli flakes to the stock, and if you have fresh herbs to hand, add chopped rosemary in step 3.

42 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

z If you’re feeling ritzy, finish this dish by stirring in a slug of dry sherry and a good knob of butter just before serving.

z Mussels fans can add a handful of scrubbed mussels as well as or instead of the prawns. Discard any that don’t open.

Shoot director MIRIAM NICE | Food stylist ESTHER CLARKE | Stylist LUIS PERAL

400g can chopped tomatoes 600ml chicken stock 1 tsp smoked paprika good pinch of saffron 1 onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed or finely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 300g paella rice

easiest ever

Where did this recipe come from?

This might not be what someone from Spain would call paella, but then the Spanish themselves say that there are as many ways to make paella as there are cooks in Spain. Some swear it is a fish dish, others that it must contain rabbit, chicken, or snails. According to who you ask, it should be cooked by a man, or over a fire â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or eaten under a fig tree.

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 43

MEAT-FREE

family meals Make fuss-free vegetarian meals the whole family will love recipes JULIET SEAR photographs WILL HEAP

Juliet Sear is a baking wizard and food artist. Discover her kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cooking videos on the BBC Good Food Youtube channel

46 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

@JulietSear

family

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 47

Healthier veggie carbonara SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V , 4 medium courgettes (use a mix small bunch fresh lemon thyme of yellow and green if you can or thyme, leaves picked get them) 200g chestnut mushrooms, 300g spaghetti roughly chopped 3 large egg yolks 4 garlic cloves 160g vegetarian parmesan-style small bunch flat-leaf parsley, cheese chopped (optional) 1 tbsp olive oil ½ lemon, zested and juiced

Halloumi traybake SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V

750g baby new potatoes, halved 2 medium red onions, quartered and broken up into large pieces 4 tbsp olive oil 400g can chickpeas, drained 1 large red pepper, sliced into strips 1 /2 romanesco broccoli or cauliflower (about 400g), cut into small florets 250g mixed colour cherry tomatoes 4 garlic cloves, peeled 250g pack reduced fat halloumi, thinly sliced small bunch basil, leaves torn

1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Put the potatoes in a large roasting tin with the onion. Pour over 2 tbsp olive oil and roast in the oven for about 30 mins. 2 Add the chickpeas, pepper, romanesco, tomatoes and garlic. Drizzle with 2 tbsp oil, then roast for a further 20-25 mins until everything is cooked and browning nicely. Toss together briefly and put the halloumi slices on top. Put it under the grill for 5-10 mins, or until the cheese is melting and browning (keep an eye on it). Scatter over the basil leaves to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 564 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 8g • carbs 53g • sugars 15g • fibre 12g • protein 28g • salt 1.6g

48 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 Put a large pan of salted water on to boil. Halve the courgettes lengthways and scoop out and discard the core, then slice the courgettes at an angle into small diagonal pieces. Put the spaghetti in the pan of boiling water and cook following pack instructions. 2 To make the creamy carbonara sauce, put the egg yolks in a bowl, add half of the grated cheese, and mix with a fork. Add up to 3 tbsp water to make the sauce less thick. Season and set aside. 3 Heat a large frying pan on a medium to high heat and pour in a little olive oil. Fry the courgette slices and thyme leaves with a good grinding of black pepper for a minute or two until the courgette starts to soften, then add the mushrooms. Fry for 2-3 mins until golden and slightly softened. For the last minute of the cooking, add the garlic. 4 Working quickly, drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Toss the pasta in the pan with the courgettes and mushrooms, then remove from the heat and add a ladleful of the reserved cooking water and the egg and cheese sauce. Add the fresh parsley, if using, and the lemon zest and juice, then sprinkle over most of the remaining cheese. Stir everything together quickly to coat the pasta. The egg will cook if the pasta is still hot. If you’re worried about it, put back on the heat for 1 min. 5 Pour in a little more of the cooking water, if needed. You should have a silky and shiny sauce. Season to taste, then sprinkle with a little more cheese to serve. Eat straight away, as the sauce can become thick and stodgy if left for too long. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 552 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 9g • carbs 59g • sugars 4g • fibre 8g • protein 29g • salt 0.8g

family

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 49

Veggie toad-in-the-hole We’ve used Quorn Best of British sausages in this recipe as we’ve found that they’re most like meat sausages, but you can use any ones you like. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus resting the batter COOK 40 mins EASY V

2 tbsp rapeseed oil 8 vegetarian sausages For the batter 4 medium eggs 325ml semi skimmed milk 250g plain flour

1 To make the batter, beat the eggs and milk together in a bowl, add 1 tsp salt, then beat again and leave to stand for 30 mins. Tip in the plain flour and beat well with a whisk until smooth. If you can, make this 2 hrs before needed and allow to stand before pouring into the tin. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Pour 2 tbsp oil in a 28 x 23cm roasting tin (or a tin roughly that size), coat the sausages in the oil and roast them in the oven for about 8-10 mins. 3 Stir the batter, then remove the tin from oven and pour the batter over the hot oil and sausages (you can do this over a low heat on the hob to keep the oil nice and hot). Put the tin back in the oven and cook for 10 mins, then turn the temperature down to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and cook for a further 25-30 mins or until the batter is cooked through. 4 Test with a knife in the centre to check it’s cooked. Serve with the crunchy polenta roast potatoes, caramelised carrots and veggie gravy (see recipes, right), if you like, plus some green vegetables. GOOD TO KNOW fibre PER SERVING 620 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 4g • carbs 63g • sugars 7g • fibre 8g • protein 33g • salt 3.6g

family

Crunchy polenta roasties SERVES 4-6 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY V

9 large potatoes (about 1.25kg), peeled and cut into large chunks

about 200ml olive oil 1-2 tbsp dried polenta

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Pour a good glug of oil in a large roasting tin and put in the oven. Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with boiling water from the kettle. Bring to the boil and cook for 7-8 mins. 2 Drain the potatoes, then toss them in the polenta to help them dry out and get a fluffy coating. Carefully tip the potatoes into the hot roasting tin, drizzle over a little more oil and toss to coat. 3 Roast for 30 mins, then turn them over and roast for 30 mins. Turn once more and cook for a further 10 mins. These can go on the lower shelf while you make your toad-in-the-hole (see recipe, left), and can cook for a further 15-20 mins if required. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 479 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 5g • carbs 38g • sugars 2g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g

Caramelised honey carrots SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V

500g pack Chantenay carrots, trimmed 1 tbsp honey

2 tsp butter 1 tsp thyme leaves

1 Put the carrots in a large frying pan with a lid. Cover with cold water, put the lid on and bring to a boil. Once boiling, take the lid off and cook over a medium heat for about 25-30 mins until all the water has evaporated. 2 Reduce the heat, add the honey, butter and thyme leaves and gently cook for about 5 mins until the carrots are caramelised and golden. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 69 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 1g • salt 0.2g

Veggie gravy SERVES 4 (makes about 400ml) PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V G

1 onion, chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped (about 200g) 2 celery sticks, finely chopped (about 200g) 2 bay leaves 1 large thyme sprig large knob of butter (or 2 tbsp olive oil) 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 2 tbsp plain flour 2 tsp Marmite (optional) 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1L vegetable stock

1 Gently cook the veg, herbs and butter in a pan for 10-12 mins until the vegetables start to brown. Scatter over the sugar and continue to cook for 1-2 mins until a little caramelised. Stir in the flour and combine well. Add the Marmite, if using, tomato purée and vinegar. Pour over the stock a little at a time stirring as you go. 2 Simmer everything together until you have a thickened sauce, this will take about 30 mins. Sieve, then add soy sauce and a touch more Marmite to season and colour. Will freeze for up to two months. PER SERVING 139 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 18g • sugars 9g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.8g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 51

family

Mini lentil shepherd’s pies SERVES 4-6 PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins EASY V G

250g Puy lentils 100ml red wine (optional) 900ml vegetable stock 2 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp Marmite (optional) peas, to serve (optional) For the mashed potato topping 850g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 75g butter 100ml milk (or alternative)

1 To make the filling, heat the butter or oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the onion, carrots, celery and garlic for 15 mins until soft and golden. Turn up the heat, add the mushrooms, then cook for 3-4 mins. Sprinkle in the thyme and add the lentils. Pour over the wine and stock, then simmer gently, uncovered, for about 40-45 mins until the lentils are soft. If you find the mixture is drying out, you can add a splash more stock or water. 2 Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a large pan, pour over boiling water and boil for 15-20 mins until tender. Drain well. You can use a potato ricer at this stage to make them super creamy, or mash with the butter and milk, then season with salt and pepper. 3 Remove the lentils from the heat, add the tomato purée and Marmite, if using. Stir well and check to see if you need seasoning, then add a good grinding of black pepper. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To assemble, butterd four-six small pie dishes or one a large dish and spoon in the lentil mixture, then top with mash. It’s fun to pipe on the mash if you have a piping bag, but if not, you can spoon it on and fluff into peaks with a fork. Bake for 30-40 mins until golden. Serve with peas on the side, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 443 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 10g • carbs 52g • sugars 9g • fibre 11g • protein 16g • salt 0.9g

Loaded baked potatoes with slaw SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 45 mins EASY V

4 baking potatoes (about 700g) 1 tbsp olive oil 30g butter 150g plain 0% fat yogurt, plus extra to serve 6 small spring onion, washed, outer layer removed and finely sliced 200g can no added sugar sweetcorn, drained

150g reduced-fat strong cheddar, grated small bunch chives, finely chopped For the healthy coleslaw 125g plain 0% fat yogurt ½ tsp wholegrain mustard 1 /2 small white cabbage, about 400g 2 medium carrots, about 150g 1 small red onion

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Wash and pierce the skins of the potatoes a few times with a sharp knife.Rub the skin with a little olive oil and bake for 1 hr 30 mins until soft inside and crisp on the outside. 2 Meanwhile, make the coleslaw. Mix the yogurt and mustard together in a bowl. Then, use a grating attachment on a food processor, or a box grater, to grate the cabbage and carrots. Either grate the onion or chop as finely as you can. Tip all of the vegetables into the bowl and stir through the yogurt and mustard. 3 Once the potatoes are crisp on the outside and soft inside, remove from the oven and cut in half. Scoop out the flesh and mash with the butter and yogurt, stir in the spring onion and sweetcorn and most of the cheese, reserving a little of the cheese for topping, season if needed. 4 Turn the oven up to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Load the filling back into the crisp potato skins, top with the remaining cheese,and put them back in the oven on a baking sheet for about 10-15 mins, or until the cheese is melted and the edges are browning. To serve, sprinkle with chives and serve alongside the coleslaw with a dollop of natural yogurt. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 493 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 8g • carbs 57g • sugars 19g • fibre 11g • protein 23g • salt 0.1g

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Shoot director and stylist TONIA SHUTTLEWORTH | Food stylist JULIET SEARS

2 tbsp butter or olive oil, plus extra for the pie dishes 1 large red onion, chopped 2 carrots, finely diced, about 200g 4 celery stalks, chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 150g chestnut mushrooms, chopped (blitz these to fairly tiny pieces for small kids) 2 tsp thyme leaves (optional)

family

NADIYA'S FAMILY TABLE

Nadiya Hussain challenges her family to cut out meat and dairy

ou can imagine the look on my kids’ faces when I announced, ‘Guys, we’re going vegan for a week – maybe even two if you’re lucky!’ The resounding silence was a sure sign that they weren’t impressed. My youngest son asked me, ‘What is being vegan?’, so I explained that it meant stripping out all animal products from our diets, including honey and eggs. After explaining in as much detail as I could (with a little help from a search engine), they were up for the challenge. I was looking forward to trying something new. As a family, we’d been feeling tired, sluggish and a little out of sorts – I felt like we needed to recharge, and this was the way to do it. It wasn’t long before I started to feel restricted. I’ve always cooked fresh meals for my family, but I realised when I went food shopping – almost picking up butter and eggs – that so much of what we ate contained animal products. This encouraged me to find alternatives, such as using flaxseeds instead of eggs, and coconut oil instead of butter. We even discovered new ingredients like tempeh, which is meat substitute made from fermented soy beans (sounds weird but tastes delicious). Fried, it gave us the meaty texture we were craving. We found that we could still eat most of our favourite family meals, including lentil curries with flatbreads and mushroom bhajis, and Bolognese made with soy mince. The whole family was eating more vegetables and pulses, and felt full of energy. The one thing the kids really missed, however, was fish fingers. I managed to find Quorn Fishless Fingers (it’s amazing what comes up when you

Vegan-friendly fishless fingers

I was looking forward to trying something new – we needed to recharge

Top tips for going vegan Talk to someone who is already vegan. The best information and the truth about what it’s like can only come from someone who is experiencing it and living it.

Speak to a doctor. Changing your diet dramatically can really affect you, so it’s always best to seek medical advice first.

You don’t have to get the kids involved, but if it’s a short-term thing, I’d recommend trying it. Exploring a new way of eating can be a lot of fun.

search for vegan food online), and we love them so much that they’re always included in our weekly food shop. I thought the kids would be gasping for a chicken drumstick or sausages, but all they wanted was eggs and soldiers. Despite my fruitless efforts to find one, there’s no substitute for that. Since our two weeks of living as a vegan family, we’ve cut out cow’s milk completely and switched to drinking soya milk. We still enjoy eating meat, but the experience has made me realise that we eat more than we need.As a compromise, we decided to eat vegetarian meals during the week and only eat meat over the weekend. That way, we have more balanced diets. I never expected my 11-, 10- and seven-year-olds to understand supply and demand, but they do believe that, even if we can’t change the world, we can do our bit. I don’t know if we’ll ever give up meat completely, but this experience has given us all new appreciation for animals and for vegan foods. JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 53

Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH | Photograph GETTY IMAGES

WHY I ASKED MY FAMILY TO BE VEGAN

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;op nioN

The food and trends getting our columnists excited this month

Dry January? Not for Tony Naylor, p72

I can make anything taste

bland! Mark Gatiss, p70

I spent four days making

bread Emma Freud, p68 I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think a

sandwich is a proper meal Joanna Blythman, p67

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 57

2018 food & drink trends

From arepas to nootropics, Good Food’s panel of culinary experts reveal what we’ll be eating and drinking in the year ahead words CHLOE SCOTT-MONCRIEFF

Zoe Adjonyoh has helped to introduce West African flavours to the public

‘Thanks to Zoe Adjonyoh, there is scope to show customers how to use different spices’ Cathy Chapman, Head of Food Product Direction and Innovation, M&S

58 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Photographs JAMES BEDFORD/THE TELEGRAPH, ISTOCK, GETTY IMAGES, SIMON REDDY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

hat’s ‘in’ in 2018? Almost anything, so long as it’s exciting and ethical, is fair pickings. Ghanaian, regional South American and even Himalayan flavours are coming to a plate near you. ‘Chefs are using unusual combinations of cuisines,’ according to food authority Ed Templeton of London’s Carousel restaurant, so expect ‘fusion’ and ‘hybrid’ as buzzwords. In supermarkets, meanwhile, Jonathan Moore, Waitrose’s executive chef, expects tart, tangy ingredients like sea buckthorn, sorrel, and tamarind to emerge, as the British palate increasingly embraces sourness and bitterness to balance salty and sweet flavours. Perhaps predictably, this year will see plants triumph over meat, with Britain’s emerging vegan contingency continuing to flourish and more people following a flexitarian diet. Food to boost the brain will be in vogue, but our fascination with gut health – specifically with fermented edibles bustling with live bacteria – will not dwindle. For restaurant-goers, 2018 will see a renewed interest, ‘not in fine dining per se, but in serious gastronomic food – albeit served in relatively relaxed environments,’ predicts BBC Good Food columnist Tony Naylor. ‘It’s fashion. It’s a pendulum.’ Happily, instagrammable fodder – like freakshakes and rainbow food – is on its way out. In 2018, we’re seeking substance over style, and it’s clear that the flavourseeking tribe is fighting back.

opinion

Left: a dish from Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen Arepas

‘Arepas, chicha and dried chulpe corn will be prevalent in 2018’ Georgina Lunn, Product Development Manager, Sainsbury’s Left: kefta & Swiss chard quiche with harissa sauce Below: Nargisse Benkabbou

Purple potatoes

The cuisines that will surprise and delight... Arepas, chichas, kiwicha

The new Mexican, Peruvian, Brazilian and Japanese-Mexican cuisines are likely to be big this year, and come with a new lexicon. Alongside tacos, ‘arepas [pronounced ‘uh-rey-puh’, corn pizzascum-muffins], chicha [‘chee-chuh’, a fermented maize drink] and dried chulpe corn [‘chool-puh’, which is used to make snacks] will be prevalent,’ predicts Georgina Lunn, Product Development Manager at Sainsbury’s. Quinoa and chia seeds have peaked, but purple potatoes, white and purple corn, black quinoa and kiwicha seeds are coming to prominence.

Inventive Moroccan

Breathing zest and zing into Moroccan food is Nargisse Benkabbou, who blogs at mymoroccanfood.com. Her inventive, life-affirming recipes include merguez (a spicy African sausage), red pepper and burrata pizza and kefta (minced meat) & swiss chard goat cheese quiche with harissa sauce. Nargisse’s debut cookbook, Casablanca: My Moroccan Food (£20, Mitchell Beazley), comes out in May.

West African cuisine hits the mainstream

Last year, London’s Ikoyi restaurant brought us high-end Nigerian fare, such as octopus pepper soup and buttermilk-fried plantain in habanero dust. Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, Zoe Adjonyoh’s cookbook about growing up eating grilled tilapia and gingery Scotch bonnet stew, has also been influential. Thanks to Zoe, ‘there is scope to show customers how to use different spices,’ says M&S’s Head of Food Product Direction and Innovation, Cathy Chapman. Additionally, Yeo Valley is releasing a limited-edition baobab and vanilla yogurt.

Pan Asian is everywhere

Himalayan food is also one to watch, continues Chapman. Asda predicts that grapefruity, sinus-clearing timut pepper from Nepal (available from souschef.co.uk) will be big. Street-food guru Ian Dodds (of KERB) tips Chinese belt noodles and Pakistani kebabs. For a veg fix, Anthony Warner, founder of angry-chef.com, is certain that ‘Indian plant-based dishes will grow in popularity’.

Pakistani kebabs

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 59

Biff’s jackfruit wings

‘The vegan jackfruit wings at Biff’s Jack Shack are incredible’ Ian Dodds, Head of Markets & Communications, KERB Elizabeth Haigh Pig’s Head at Rochelle ICA, London

Elizabeth Haigh is the chef to watch Haigh (née Allen) won a Michelin star for Hackney’s Pidgin as founding chef, to much fanfare. Her accolades are many: she’s a Young British Foodie chef of the year finalist and won the Chef to Watch category at the National Restaurant Awards. Expect to see her SingaporeanBritish heritage influencing the menu at her debut solo restaurant, Shibui, this year. @the_modernchef

Londoners should seek out Biff’s Jack Shack (biffsjackshack. com). ‘His vegan jackfruit wings are incredible,’ says Ian Dodds. Spitalfields’ Gul & Sepoy is making waves with its north Indianinspired Jackfruit and walnut galouti.

Jackfruit on the menu

The culture of craft butter

With veganism at an all-time high – demand for vegetarian and vegan ready meals and snacks soared by 40% at Tesco in 2017 – this yellow-fleshed fruit is prized for its meaty pulled-pork texture.

Pandan: the avocado of 2018?

60 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Butter fiend Grant Harrington, of Butter Culture, is raising our expectations beyond the humble yellow block. After a year of research into dairy fermentation, including building a cabin on a small farm in Oxfordshire, the ex-Fäviken chef started supplying butter locally. Now, his rich, buttercup-hued fat, heaped with naturally occurring diacetyl acid – the stuff that makes butter buttery – is omnipresent. You’ll find diners eulogising it in restaurants from Sat Bains in Nottingham to London’s Bibendum.

Foreign delicacies made in Britain Locavores can rejoice. Plant-Jedi Luke Farrell at Dorset’s Ryewater Nursery, who has encyclopedic knowledge of Malaysian and Sichuan cuisines, is

harvesting rare Asian varieties like som saa and pandan (Nigella reckons the latter is the avocado of 2018). Meanwhile, there’s sustainably farmed British tilapia in East London (growup.org.uk), with the waste produced used as a fertiliser to grow veg on site. British farmers are even producing txuleton (pronounced chuleton), the Galician old ox or dairy beef that foodies go wild for. UK pioneers include Andrew Barraclough’s farm near Penrith and the Lake District Farmers (LDF).

Extreme meat cuts

If illustrious chef Margot Henderson is putting whole pig’s head on the menu at the new Rochelle outpost at the ICA in London, you know something is up. Served with a simple salad, the meat is rich in flavour, tender and makes a striking centrepiece for the dinner table.

The top food festival of 2018

The must-attend culinary event this year is the Port Eliot Festival in Cornwall. Run by Cathy St Germans, the current resident of Port Eliot House, the festival

Photographs MING TANG-EVANS, GETTY IMAGES, JOHN CAREY, LOUISE ROBERTS

Eating out…

opinion

Psst! Don’t miss out on...

The tools to use

We’re setting aside NutriBullets and spiralizers for kefir kits and pressure cookers. Sales of Lakeland’s kefir kits tripled after Michael Mosley’s BBC2 documentary, Trust me, I’m a Doctor, featured the fermented yogurt drink. Google searches for pressure cookers are up 15%, according to Lakeland.

The hot ingredients Above: dim sum at Duddell’s Left: Daren Liew, executive head chef at Duddell’s

Sriracha, harissa, togarashi and kimchi are key ingredients according to Harrods’ April Preston, who can’t live without Kewpie Mayonnaise, a Japanese rice vinegar-based mayo. We’ll be sprinkling meals with lesserknown herbs like sorrel, lovage and Thai basil. Sainsbury’s Georgina Lunn predicts bigs things for speciality cooking oils – like smoked rapeseed oil and pumpkin oil.

The eagerly anticipated new openings

Port Eliot Festival in Cornwall

has overtaken Oxfordshire’s Wilderness in terms of credibility. Last year, attendees included restaurateur Russell Norman, Claire Ptak of Violet Bakery and Great British Menu judge Matthew Fort. There’s also an abundance of Cornish producers and culinary workshops.

The cool new markets

Carl Turner Architects, creators of cheffy destination Pop Brixton, is transforming Woolwich into the next foodie hub, Wool Yard, with restaurant-filled shipping containers. Manchester food duo Nick Johnson and Jen Thompson have renovated the Grade II-listed Mackie Mayor on Swan Street into an eating hub. Reinventing the foodcourt, Hammersmith’s Feast Canteen will have popular eateries like Patty & Bun and Breddos Tacos on rotation.

The must-sip vinos

Natural and orange wines are surging in popularity across the UK. Friends of Ham in Yorkshire proffers Pét Nat, the ancient-style natural sparkling wine. Cheval Blanc in Birmingham’s Moseley and Smith & Gertrude in Edinburgh are both serving some lovely orange wines.

Be seen at

Bob Bob Cité, the new London opening Ramael Scully, former head chef of on Leadenhall Street, will have ‘Press Ottolenghi’s NOPI and co-author of for champagne’ buttons like sister NOPI: the Cookbook, goes solo with restaurant Bob Bob Ricard. Eric Chavot, Scully, in London’s St James’s Market, protégé of both Raymond Blanc and likely to be one of the year’s highlights. Pierre Koffmann, is head chef. Restaurant hounds are buzzing about Brett Redman, chef-owner The beer and cider trends of Elliot’s and Japanese izakaya Recognising a gap in the market, Jidori, who is opening a new Nirvana Brewery is innovating with 0% branch of the latter in Covent craft beer – no alcohol but plenty of Garden in 2018; Chucs punch. Craft cider has arrived, with opening at Harrods; Simon Wright’s first urban cidery chef-legend Henry a prime example. Britain’s only Ramael Scully Harris relaunching cider merchant, Felix Nash, is goes solo with the Truscott Arms doing cider pairings for menus new restaurant in Maida Vale; in restaurants such as Bao, Scully and Petersham Lyle’s and Brunswick House. Nurseries’ Covent Garden arrival.

Hong Kong comes to London

Punters were excited when Serge et Le Phoque, a Hong Kong import, arrived in the Mandrake Hotel in London last autumn. Hong Kong mania hasn’t stopped since. Duddell’s has just opened a London outpost, with Daren Liew at the helm, dishing up Cantonese cuisine. Also eagerly anticipated by restaurant groupies is the Hong Kong fine dining establishment Imperial Treasure, which is opening in London’s Mayfair this year.

Above: Petersham Nurseries, Covent Garden Left: Feast Canteen, Hammersmith

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 61

Right: dishes at Kricket, Soho Below: Will Bowlby, author of Kricket

Get ready to embrace… The fourth meal

Brunch, brinner, lunch... are you confused too? Now, we have a fourth meal to contend with. ‘We’ve been watching the fourth meal for months,’ says Jonathan Moore. ‘We’re eating differently. We have breakfast for dinner, dinner for lunch – everything is less structured. This is the final meal – normally a treat.’ So, four meals a day – if you have the appetite for it!

Kricket by Will Bowlby

Kricket (£26, Hardie Grant), out in April, by chef Will Bowlby, is this year’s eagerly awaited cookbook. Based on dishes from the restaurant group of the same name, Bowlby puts a twist on Indian streetfoods like bhelpuri, pakoras and kichri.

Nootropics

Photographs IMPOSSIBLE FOODS,SABINE LÖSCHER/STOCKFOOD, HILDE MÈCHE/STOCKFOOD, CLARE GAINEY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, CINDY HAIGWOOD/STOCKFOOD

The health-conscious will be consuming nootropics – that’s brain food, to you and me – according to trends prediction agency Pearlfisher. Gut health is still a major focus but cognition may now start to take over. Watch out for turmeric, salmon, eggs, dandelion greens, and jícama (Mexican yam) in stores and online.

‘We’re eating differently. We have breakfast for dinner, dinner for lunch – things are less structured’ Jonathan Moore, Executive Chef, Waitrose

What does the Impossible Burger taste like? by Juliet Sear

ou may have heard about the Impossible Burger, a plant-based patty that bleeds and sizzles when it cooks and aims to mimic that moreish meaty flavour. As it’s plant-based, its environmental footprint is much smaller than that of a standard beef burger. I tried an Impossible Burger – with American cheese, of course – at Public House in San Francisco. It was really wonderful, and satisfied the meat craving I’ve had since becoming vegetarian. I’ve missed the joy that comes from a warm, fatty and salty burger with pickles, sauces, salad and cheese, wrapped in an amazing brioche bun. This definitely had that naughty, fatty taste and texture I was looking for. The outside of the burger is coated in coconut oil, so it has that crunchy savoury outer layer like you

62 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

get on a beef burger that’s been fried. I bit into it, and there it was – that pinky soft middle. It was simply delicious. The flavour was really good – the best veggie burger I’ve ever had. However, I was slightly disappointed that I could still distinguish the Impossible Burger from a meat burger – the texture wasn’t quite the same.

The vegan Jamie Oliver

Heralded as a vegan Jamie O, Welsh chef Gaz Oakley has amassed nearly a quarter of a million subscribers to his YouTube channel, @avantgardevegan, in just a few months, and his first book, Vegan 100 (£20, Quadrille) is out at the end of the month.

Haem

Coming to you soon is haem, an ironcontaining compound that’s abundant in animal muscle. Silicon Valley start-up Impossible Foods has launched a plant-based burger using the sci-fi-sounding gene-edited ingredient. Haem makes the patty ‘bleed’ and imparts iron-filled meatiness. It’s considered the best meat-free burger, bar none (see panel, left).

Hip exotic veg

Has kale finally had its day? Traders at restaurant suppliers Citrus fruits are New Covent having a moment Garden are predicting more vegetal and citrus variation this year – bergamot, yuzu, cedro (a Middle Eastern variety prized for its skin) and miyagawa, a Japanese tangerine (from natoora.co.uk).

opinion

Rosemary water: the hot new way to cool down

‘Aquafaba can be used anywhere egg whites are used – even in Yorkshire puddings’ April Preston, Executive Head of Food Innovation, Harrods

And for drinking… Vegan chef Gaz Oakley

Water tonics

The generation Y must-haves are rosemary water and other drinking tonics. ‘There’s a lot more choice in non-alcoholic drinks,’ says Victoria Moore, Good Food’s drinks columnist. ‘The rosemary water is very fancy – they’re launching it almost like a champagne. It smells like rosemary schiacciata, which is great if you’re hungry.’ The key brand, No.1 Rosemary Water, is flying off the shelves at Harvey Nichols, Whole Foods and Ocado.

Aquafaba

Gaz Oakley’s red pepper soup

Trends panel

Anthony Warner, development chef ( @one_angry_chef); Ed & Ollie Templeton, co-founders, Carousel London ( @carousel_ldn); Cathy Chapman, head of food product direction and innovation, M&S ( @marks andspencer); Georgina Lunn, product development manager, Sainsbury’s ( @sainsburys); Tony Naylor, Good Food columnist ( @naylor_tony); Jonathan Moore, executive chef, Waitrose ( @waitrose); Victoria Moore, Good Food columnist ( @planetvictoria);

Use aquafaba instead of egg white in cocktails

Aquafaba – the fancy name for chickpea brine – is creeping into restaurants and bars as an egg substitute. ‘It can be used anywhere egg whites would be used – cocktails, meringues, even Yorkshire puddings,’ says Harrods’ April Preston. The fluid is thus great for vegans and people with dairy intolerances. Ian Dodds, head of markets & communication, KERB ( kerbfood @kerb_); Abby Talbot, head of own label, Booths ( @boothscountry); Ruth Tewkesbury, publicity manager, Hardie Grant ( @hardiegrantuk); Caroline Brown, head of publicity, Octopus Publishing ( @octopus_ books); April Preston, executive head of food innovation, Harrods ( @harrods); Michele Bradley, PR, Z-PR/ Lakeland ( @lakelanduk); Lucy Hancock,account director, Storm Communications ( stormcomuk); Megan Pryor, account manager, Taste PR ( @tastepr); Natalie Evans, account director, Bacchus PR ( @bacchus_pr); Ailana Kamelmacher, co-founder, Story PR ( @ailana); Gemma Bell, founder, Gemma Bell and Company ( @gemmabelleats); Max Putman & Olivia Forster, Purple PR ( @purpleprculture); Dominique Fraser, founder, Fraser Communications

The team at London’s Super Lyan, one of the country’s most venerated bars, are big fans. Aquafaba whisky sours and Gin fizzes here we come.

Gin tailoring

Ten twists on gin & tonics, gin & tonic cake and rhubarb-infused gin were among the most popular Good Food posts on Make your own gin social media in at Cambridge 2017. Expect more Distillery gin geekery this year. The first Japanese gin has just arrived at northern supermarket, Booths, but blending-your-own is the ultimate indulgence. The Cambridge Distillery is inviting gin aficionados to work with master distiller William Lowe for two-hour session to identify taste preferences, before making a bottle of their own to take home. (fraser-communications.co.uk); Young British Foodies ( theybfs); Pearlfisher ( pearlfisherlive); Jessica Sneddon, founder, Charlotte & Jospeh PR ( @jessicasneddon); Katharine Shipley, head of innovation, Co-op ( @coopukfood); Stuart Ekins, owner, Cask Liquid Marketing ( caskforit); Larissa Milo-Dale, press officer, Soil Association ( @soilassociation); Melody Odusanya & Jacqui Small, Quarto ( @thequartogroup); Rachel Watt, International Wine & Spirits Competition ( @theIWSC); Nicola Lando, founder, Sous Chef ( @souscheftweet); Daniela Rinaldi, group commercial director, Harvey Nichols ( @harveynichols); Alpana Deshmukh, communications & social media strategist ( @alpana. deshmukh @alpanadeshmukh); Kerry Torrens, Good Food nutritional therapist

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 63

opinion

Tony Naylor eats at

V-Rev Vegan Diner

Vegan junk food comes to Manchester. Is plant-based food the future?

n the UK, the vegan bandwagon (electric-powered with leather-free interiors) is picking up speed. You can see it everywhere – soaring vegan sales in supermarkets, Pret A Manger’s focus on meat-free food, US vegan café By Chloe opening in London. Suddenly, food free of animal products feels cool. Rafts of celebs are now either vegan or flirting with it, while – controversially for ethical vegans – so-called clean eating has co-opted (note the rebranding) plantbased cookery. If vegans were once lazily perceived as militant eco-warriors and angry anarchists, Instagram is now full of serene, glowing evangelists and a new generation of pumped-up dudes pushing a (literally) muscular version of veganism via feeds of their ripped bodies, such as US pin-ups the Vegan Bros. Manchester’s quietly radical V-Rev has no truck with such macho BS, but its journey reflects that cultural shift. V-Rev started as V-Revolution, a fringe punk record shop and vegan grocer. Five years on, it’s a large, colourful, brightly lit diner serving trashy fast food – one of the hottest vegan sub-trends. I find it fascinating, partly because I admire vegans (I eat meat, but can make no rational philosophical case for factory farming), but mainly because whenever I go past, V-Rev is packed. And it’s not just tattooed kids in

Black Flag t-shirts, but also families, 30-something professionals and, yes, glossy, gym-honed, manicured couples. Clearly, V-Rev is reaching out. To help decode this mysterious world of umamipacked nutritional yeast flakes, which allow V-Rev to create a ‘cheez’ akin to processed, plasticky cinema cheese, I invite my token vegan friend (TVF) along. ‘Be careful, it expands inside you,’ she lies about seitan, the wheat gluten from which V-Rev forms its burgers. Who says vegans don’t have a sense of humour? V-Rev’s super cool and friendly staff happily explain everything while keeping me supplied with craft beer from their impressive menu. Two pints into Alphabet Brewing’s session IPA, Charlie Don’t Surf, toes tapping to the hip-hop soundtrack, I am ready to be wowed. But then the food arrives. True, the Viet fries loaded with Sriracha ‘mayo’, plummy hoisin sauce and peanuts are brilliant. Their take on ‘ribs’ is interesting too – made of jackfruit, they have a remarkably meaty consistency and, dressed in a tangy, fruity, overly sweet sauce (presumably the chipotle cola BBQ sauce, which recurs across the menu and is the meal’s dominant flavour), they are pleasant enough. A side of mac ‘n’ cheez is adequate, the cabbage slaw serviceable, the ’80s-style garlic baguette less so. The BBQ Without U burger is disappointing for, perhaps, unexpected reasons. Although the seitan and soy patty is well seasoned and mimics the consistency of a cheap, spongy meat burger, the onion rings are stringy, the ‘brisket’ topping like a pencil rubber. Overall, the burger lacks savoury depth (that sugary BBQ sauce is foremost) and firm textural variation. It is dull and mushy. The hot dog is also poor. TVF loves the frankfurterlike sausage, but its spicy seasoning is lost amid an XXL pretzel bun, a mound of dried-out mac ‘n’ cheez and strips of fake bacon, whose smoked flavour is fine, but whose foam, play-food texture is not. A claggy dessert brownie is a similar clunker. The accompanying sorbet has a decent chocolatey flavour, but the ersatz whipped cream is, well… What does TVF think it is, I wonder. ‘Air,’ she replies, drily. Unsurprisingly, TVF likes V-Rev more than I did. She’d go back; it’s fun. But we agree that, in its complexity, vegan junk-food is miles behind, say, Gujarati or Jamaican Ital cooking. To eat exceptional vegan food in Manchester, you need to look beyond burgers. Tony Naylor, who lives in Manchester, writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian.

64 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

WHERE 20-26 Edge St Manchester M4 1HN 0161 839 3883 vrevmcr.co.uk COST Dinner for two around £45 BEST DISH Half-rack of ‘ribs’ with mac ‘n’ cheez and rainbow slaw VERDICT An interesting evening, but no V-revelation

& Turn to page 72 for Tony’s views on Dry January

Photographs COURTESY OF MANCHESTER CONFIDENTIAL

@naylor_tony

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opinion

Joanna Blythman

A sandwich is not a proper meal

Processed sandwiches are contributing to the UK’s bad health

Portrait ANDREW PEEBLES | Photograph GETTY IMAGES

@joannablythman

hen did a sandwich become a meal? During a recent (thankfully brief) stay in hospital, I was offered one for supper: fridge-cold flaccid sliced bread filled with sweettasting beige stuff – purportedly tuna. Its very appearance killed any desire to eat stone dead. Even if I’d had a healthy appetite, this measly apology for a meal would not have satisfied it. I ate food my family had brought instead. Poor-quality sandwiches – additive-laden bread, waterlogged ham, plastic cheese, fish mulch – aren’t just a hazard for hospital patients. They’re also seen as a suitable meal for children, and turn up like proverbial bad pennies in schools and care homes. Cashstrapped council caterers have got into the habit of serving them as a stand-in for a cooked meal because they’re cheap to prepare and allow them to balance their budgets. Families struggling to put a meal on the table might see no option but to eat sliced bread with chocolate spread or cheap meat as a meal. The trouble is that there may be no sustaining food to follow that day. ‘Poor-quality sandwiches are becoming the go-to meal replacement for children who are enduring many other struggles, and contribute to the public health crisis that blights so many children

LEFTOVER LUNCHES

nationwide,’ says Robbie Davison, the director of Can Cook, a Liverpool-based social enterprise that tackles food poverty. ‘Processed ingredients between two slices of bread, intended as a meal, have no place whatsoever in feeding hungry children.’ More upmarket sandwiches are enshrined as the UK worker’s default lunch. A whopping 56% of us eat a sandwich every day, a habit that could cost around £1,000 a year – a substantial price tag for what strikes me as an exercise in serial boredom. BLT, chicken mayonnaise, bacon with ketchup or brown sauce, ham and cheese, and cheese and pickle are our top five choices apparently, and they often include additives and high-tech ingredients not found in any domestic larder. These pricier sandwiches are certainly more

Families struggling to put a meal on the table might see no option but to eat sliced bread with chocolate spread

aspirational and possibly superior to the equivalent encountered in institutional settings. No doubt many of the factory-made sandwiches Britain consumes theoretically deliver sufficient calories calculated to feed a human being reasonably. But it’s no surprise that they’re often sold as part of a meal deal with a drink and a packet of crisps, because they’re basically unsatisfying in themselves. Once in a while if I have quality cold-cuts in the fridge – leftover roast beef, cold turkey, crunchy lettuce, good cheese – I might knock up a superior sandwich for a quick lunch. But I think we urgently need to restate a fundamental principle: sandwiches were designed for portability, as an option for situations when eating a sit-down meal wasn’t possible. There’s something heartening about a proper meal on a plate that satisfies both physical hunger pangs and provides the emotional comfort and satisfaction we experience when we’re properly fed. The traditional, triangular British sandwich just doesn’t cut it. Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4.

Leftovers make great packed lunches. These are all good cold

• Cold roast meat with roast vegetables • Vegetable stir fry with noodles or rice drizzled with a little soy or fish sauce • Nut roast (add some cherry tomatoes or tzatziki)

• Rice with kale and smoked mackerel • Falafels with tahini sauce, add crunchy chopped salad or cooked veg • For more ideas for leftovers, go to bbcgoodfood.com

Do you agree with Joanna? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion

next month

How to eat ethically on a budget

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 67

How we eat now

The rise of sourdough Inspired by east London bakers, Emma Freud gets to grips with the most complicated loaf on earth ourdough is having a huge moment, and if you can get beyond the slightly annoying hipster association, it’s easy to see why. It has a total of three ingredients, and the rise comes from the simple act of flour and water fermenting together to create its own natural yeast and bacteria. But, more importantly, it’s a massive act of love: to get the flour and water to the right stage of fermenting takes 10 days of ‘feeding’ a flour and water paste with more flour and water. This eventually creates the mother – a bubbling pot that lives in your fridge and as long as you feed it (her?) regularly, you can scoop bits off to make sourdough bread for the rest of time. Last month, I undertook a sourdough course at the E5 bakery in Hackney, where their mother was begun over 100 years ago. And I’m not even making that up. Having spent eight hours learning the science, this week I set about baking it on my own and would like to talk you through the process – not so that you can copy my fairly lame lead, but so that you truly know what has gone into the ancient recipe for this spectacular, smoky, tangy, complex, king and queen of breads.

MONDAY

9am STEP 1 FOUR ENTIRE DAYS before I fancy a piece of toast, I mix the egg cup full of mother which the bakery gave me with precise quantities of water and flour, then leave the dough to ferment for six hours. This is SIMPLE – don’t know what the big fuss is about. 4pm STEP 2 I mix the dough with more water and more flour thereby turning it into a leaven which I will leave in the fridge for two days. I try to set the timer on my phone for ‘two days’ but it doesn’t understand the question.

TUESDAY

Day off Phew.

WEDNESDAY

4pm STEP 3 The leaven is released from the fridge. I mix it with more water and more flour, give it a bit of a knocking, then lay it back in its bowl. 4.30pm STEP 4 I add salt, mix again, and go to pick up my child from school. 5pm STEP 5 Child gets into the car and finds me ‘stretching and folding’ the sourdough. This needs to be done at regular intervals for seemingly the rest of time. Child looks horrified. ‘What is that?’ he says, only with worse language. ‘It’s bread’ I say. ‘Oh good’ he says, ‘I’m starving’. ‘It won’t be ready til tomorrow,’ I confess. ‘What about the bread you were making 68 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

on Monday – can I have some of that?’ ‘That’s still this, so no’. ‘I don’t understand,’ says the child. ‘Neither do I,’ say I. 5.45pm STEP 6 Home. Time to stretch and fold again. Getting marginally better at this bit. 6.30pm STEP 7 Back in the kitchen. Stretch and fold number three – not much else to report. 7.15pm STEP 8 Going out, so sourdough will have to enjoy its first outing to the cinema. As we get to the traffic lights, I stretch, fold, and hope we aren’t pulled over by the police. 8pm STEP 9 As the movie previews start, I quickly stretch and fold number four. Hadn’t noticed til now the interesting, fermenty, appley smell that comes from the dough. I think everyone else in the cinema may have noticed it too. 8.45pm STEP 10 Hadn’t thought through the length of the film so have to leave cinema early in order to get home for the crucial ‘shape the dough into a round and place in a floured bread basket’ stage. Bread basket goes into the fridge and I am breathless with excitement. Only 19 hours to go.

THURSDAY

2pm STEP 11 The risen dough is slashed with a knife to allow steam to do something (I forgot to listen to that bit), and goes into a pre-heated iron casserole dish, lid on, bread into oven. We’re nearing the end of the 78-hour process and I can smell success, or at least, something resembling bread. 2.30pm STEP 12 Lid comes off so the top can brown. The excitement is palpable. 2.45pm STEP 13 Bread is removed from oven and released onto a wire rack. It’s done, it’s over and it is magnificent. The boyfriend shows me the sourdough loaf he had bought from our local baker that morning for £2.50 just in case my one didn’t work out. It took him 8 minutes to buy including the walk there and back. Mine has taken four days. To be honest, his is nicer, but mine has been a bigger adventure. Moral of the story: I will never, ever, ever make sourdough again. But I will never, ever, ever buy a sourdough loaf again without going down on my knees and congratulating the bakers for their devotion, effort, feeding, fermenting, stretching, folding, care and love. How incredible that there are people in the UK prepared to go through this astonishing, time-honoured process to bring us our daily toast. I salute them. Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, director of Red Nose Day and a co-presenter of Radio Four’s Loose Ends.

Shoot director CHERRY FERMOR | Photograph EMMA BOYNS | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

@emmafreud

opinion

The simplest loaf in Britain (not sourdough) This isn’t sourdough, it’s soda bread, and is so simple because it needs no kneading or proving. It’s yeast-free because the bicarbonate of soda reacts with the buttermilk to make the bread rise. It’s so quick that it takes literally five minutes from having the idea to putting it in the oven. And it’s seriously delicious – especially with smoked salmon, gravadlax or goat’s cheese. CUTS INTO 10 slices PREP 5 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

500g wholemeal flour 2 tsp sea salt 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary (optional) 400ml whole milk 1 lemon, juiced 2 tsp honey

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Mix together the flour, salt and bicarb in a bowl. And if you’d like rosemary bread, add the chopped rosemary too. 2 Mix together the milk and lemon juice in a jug, and wait for a minute as it magically turns into buttermilk. Then stir in the honey, and simply pour it into the flour mixture. Stir it with a knife for a minute until the whole thing comes together into a sticky dough. 3 Tip onto a floured work surface and shape it into a ball. 4 Put the ball on a floured baking tray and, using a sharp knife, make a deep cross on top. 5 Put in the oven and bake for 40 mins. 6 Cool on a wire rack until warm, then slice and serve. And that’s literally it. The plain loaf is fantastic with smoked salmon and a dill, mustard and honey sauce made from mixing together a tablespoon each of Dijon mustard and oil, a teaspoon each of honey and vinegar, some salt, pepper and a handful of chopped dill. And if you make the rosemary loaf, it’s particularly gorgeous spread with fig chutney and goat’s cheese. GOOD TO KNOW low fat PER SLICE 207 kcals • fat 2g • saturates 1g • carbs 36g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 1.3g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 69

FOOD MILESTONES MARK GATISS

‘I HAVE SORT OF AN ANTI-MIDAS TOUCH’ The Doctor Who and Sherlock star shares his memories of ghastly school dinners and his not-quite-golden cooking abilities interview by ROSANNA GREENSTREET

fter studying drama at Bretton Hall in Wakefield, Mark Gatiss, 51, created dark radio and TV series The League of Gentleman with Reece Shearsmith, Jeremy Dyson and Steve Pemberton. With Steven Moffat, he created the hugely successful and award-winning series Sherlock, in which he plays Mycroft Holmes. Mark has also appeared in Doctor Who, Wolf Hall and Game of Thrones. In 2017, Mark curated and directed Queers – a series of eight monologues for BBC Four to mark the 50th anniversary of the 1967 Sexual Offences Act, which saw the partial decriminalisation of male homosexuality. He lives in London with his husband, actor Ian Hallard. I have a vivid memory of being given a cake on my third birthday. It would’ve been a fruit cake, because that’s what I like. I used to love being allowed to scrape out the bowl after Mum made a cake. I'm the youngest and had to fight my brother, Phillip, and sister, Jill, for it. We always used to ask, ‘Why can’t we just have a big bowl of this – it’s much nicer than cake!’ At school, puddings like jam roly-poly, lemon meringue pie and bread and butter pudding were so ghastly they would bring me out in a rash. Many years later I discovered that they can all be lovely if properly made, particularly bread and butter pudding. At school I was a geek – even before the word was invented. I remember someone asking, ‘Are you going to be a professor when you grow up?’ That’s how I looked – my hair was all over the place, I had big glasses and I was obsessed with dinosaurs, astronomy and Dr Who.

70 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Dr Who and Sherlock Holmes have always been part of my life. To have made a career from things I love has been amazing. I grew up in the north east, where there was no concept of eating out. I didn’t eat at a restaurant until I was in my teens. Eating out was getting fish and chips. We made pasta pictures at school, and I had to buy pasta specially – canned spaghetti was the only pasta I knew. At home, we ate simple food. My favourite was corned beef hash, which I'm still very fond of. As the nights draw in, my craving for it increases. The first foreign holiday we had was Spain in 1979, and I remember being a little afraid of the experience. In the hotel we had preserved sausage for breakfast. I couldn’t get my head around the concept of these great pieces of mouldering flesh. All we ever had for breakfast were cornflakes and boiled eggs, so it was a real shock to the system. When I went to Europe on my gap year, my abiding memory is of constipation. I went with my first and only girlfriend, Sally, and several friends from school. We planned the trip for months but then all fell out within 24 hours and went our separate ways. Sally and I were so poor and had eaten so little that, when we got to Vienna, we had to go to a pharmacy to get laxatives. I am sure there must have been marvellous European epicurean delights, but I don’t remember them. When I was a student, Pizza Hut was a great friend to me. My first forays into eating out were in Wakefield. There weren’t any Michelin-starred restaurants, but

I remember going for a proper Thai meal there for the first time. When I was at Bretton Hall, I met Steve and Reece, and Jeremy, who was at the University of Leeds. We collaborated and formed the League of Gentleman; an opportunity arose to put on a five-night sketch show and it all went from there. My Sherlock co-creator, Steven Moffat, told me about this place in Los Angeles called Katsuya, which he and his wife love so much they actually dream about it. You’re always wary of the hype around such things, but Ian and I went recently and it was genuinely one of the best meals I’ve ever had. They do a spicy tuna starter that tastes so good you don’t really want to swallow. We ended up saying, ‘Forget the main course, let’s just have more tuna.’ Early in our relationship, Ian roasted a chicken. It was my first Sunday roast in 15 years. When we met, I was vegetarian,

opinion but soon after I suddenly gave up at a restaurant where I could eat only one and a half things. I had bland chicken and thought, ‘Oh no, I’ve blown 15 years of virtue.’ The next day, I had a bacon sandwich, and I haven’t looked back.

As a child, canned spaghetti was the only type of pasta I knew

I’m a terrible cook. I have a sort of anti-Midas touch – give me the most exotic of ingredients and I’ll make them very bland. My nephew Andrew, however, is a gifted cook. As a teen, he did work experience in a kitchen, but cut his finger and fainted. A year later he did another day of work experience and did it again! Since then, things have improved a bit: he co-owns a lovely little place called The Wandering Duck in Darlington. I’m very proud of him. I last cooked the other day, after a run. I have a book with lots of healthy recipes and I thought, ‘I’m actually going to cook one of these, rather than just look at them.’ I went and bought all the ingredients, and made a raw salmon and fig salad with brown rice and spinach. It wasn’t too bad. I had my best-ever breakfast in Aberystwyth. I went for a screening of Death Line, one of my favourite horror films from the 70s. I stayed in a little hotel where they did a delicious full Welsh breakfast with laverbread and black pudding. It came on a piece of slate. I normally can’t bear that kind of pretentiousness, but it felt very Welsh. For my last supper I would go back to my proletarian roots: beans on toast and a big cup of tea. I still have it most Sundays – it has to be Heinz.

& The League of Gentlemen specials

Portrait ANDREW CROWLEY/TELEGRAPH

and Doctor Who: Twice Upon a Time are available on BBC iPlayer

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 71

opinion

Tony Naylor

10 reasons I won’t be doing Dry January Why our columnist won’t be giving up drinking for the most miserable month of the year

pologies if this column lacks its customary sparkle. But, like you, I am suffering from a severe case of January. Christmas is over. The sky is grey. The mood bleak. On 15 January, it’s Blue Monday: officially the most depressing day of the year. For that reason, Dry January, now in its fifth year, strikes me as a terrible idea. In winter, we all need a little light in our lives, and, at Naylor Towers, that light glints off a cluster of gin, brandy and whisky bottles. Believe me, I am not out to get trolleyed (please drink responsibly), but a snifter, a pick-me-up, a livener is an essential (vodka and) tonic in January. Warmth floods in, endorphins spike and the world seems far more forgiving. Abstain if you must, but here are 10 reasons I won’t be doing #dryjanuary. 1 Because life is hectic Work, kids, deadlines, parents, bills, chores! We all need a little stress relief, an analgesic (have you seen the news lately?). In 2001, Irvine Welsh wrote a brilliant piece for The Observer about drinking and the ecstasy of being in a bar with friends as the third drink kicks-in, and, after a hard week, everyone begins to relax. ‘You wish you could just hold on to it for ever,’ he wrote. How true. 2 Cocktail class A well-made Old Fashioned can be as satisfying and complex as the finest food. Head to The Savoy’s American Bar (No1 at the 2017 World’s 50 Best Bars awards), for its signature Hanky Panky, a very adult combination of gin, Cinzano Rosso and Fernet Branca. 3 Near-beer fear Have you tried non-alcoholic beer recently? It’s abysmal. I reviewed a selection for The Guardian two years ago. I still have nightmares. 72 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

4 Support your local publican According to CAMRA, 21 pubs close each week. Use them or lose them. Remember: from tiny, DIY micropubs serving immaculate cask ales, to Tom Kerridge’s now Michelin-starred Coach in Marlow, there is a pub for every occasion. 5 Don’t follow the herd Alcohol is in retreat as millennials opt, instead, for juice crawls (!), sober raves (!!) and immersive, fancydress movie nights (!!!). If they can’t Instagram it, they’re not interested. It’s enough to drive anyone to drink. 6 #FOMO Go dry this month and you will miss Manchester Beer Festival (25-27 January) and Bristol Gin Festival (okay, it’s sold out, but you take my point). Plus Burns Night is on 25 January. 7 Rum affair #tryjanuary is a #dryjanuary rival that encourages people to dabble in different drinks. Rum is surging in popularity as bars revive daiquiris and explore new wave craft rums aged in unusual barrels or vibrant agricole, made from fresh sugar cane juice. 8 Arguments over abstinence Interestingly, the British Liver Trust says that having at least two alcohol-free days a week, is, as its chief exec, Andrew Langford, told The Daily Mirror: ‘Far more effective than taking one month off.’ Long-term moderation I can live with. Just. 9 Cheers! The value of well-being rarely features in debates about alcohol. But research has found that drinking, particularly regularly with friends, makes people happier. One US study even suggested a few glasses of wine is the secret to a long, contented marriage. Who am I to disagree? 10 Golden age Have you tried those murky, super-juicy New England-style IPAs? Mind-bending orange wine? The latest fruit-infused gins? Sparkling pét-nat reds? The current creativity in artisan drinks, in small producer wines, gin and craft beer, is unprecedented. I am determined not to miss a drop. Tony Naylor writes for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. Do you agree with Tony? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion

next month

Tony’s tips for eating out for less

Illustration NICK SHEPHERD | Portrait DAVID COTSWORTH

@naylor_tony

advertisement feature

Feel good food We all love a wholesome bowl of soup, but whether you prefer yours spicy or mild, add more depth of flavour with new OXO Ready To Use Stock hat do we look for in our version of the perfect, nourishing bowl of soup? Should it be mild, for ultimate comfort, or should it pack a bit of a punch to keep things interesting? It’s a personal thing, but we can all agree that our soup should have a delicately balanced flavour. That’s where the new OXO Ready To Use Stock comes in. Available in three delicious flavours – Succulent Free-Range Chicken, Tasty Vegetable and Rich Farm-Bred Beef – these stocks instantly give your soup an irresistible depth and richness.

Mild Shredded salad soup

SERVES 4 1 PREP 15 mins 1 COOK 20 mins 1 EASY

320ml OXO Ready To Use Succulent Free-Range Chicken Stock 1 star anise 10 Sichuan peppercorns, lightly crushed (normal peppercorns will also work) 3cm-piece ginger, peeled and chopped 3 skinless chicken breasts 500g celeriac, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 lemon, juiced 3 tbsp low-salt soy sauce handful basil or coriander, chopped 1 small red pepper, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 80g bag watercress, roughly chopped 150g Brussels sprouts, trimmed, leaves picked and the core shredded 250g chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced 4 tbsp sweet chilli or sriracha chilli sauce, to serve

1 Put the OXO Ready To Use Succulent

Free-Range Chicken Stock into a saucepan and add the star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, ginger and 950ml of water and bring to the boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer, then add the chicken breasts and poach for 15 mins until cooked through. 2 Meanwhile, mix the celeriac with the lemon juice and half of the soy sauce in a bowl and set aside to soften. Once cool enough to handle, shred the chicken and return to the broth, stir through the herbs and add the remaining soy sauce to taste. 3 Divide the pepper, celeriac, watercress, sprouts and mushrooms between four bowls, add the chicken to each bowl, then pour over the stock. Serve with chilli sauce on the side.

For a spicier soup, try this roasted cauliflower recipe (see website, left)

Celebrate summer Step into a brand new season with the BBC Good Food Show

14 - 17 June 2018 Birmingham NEC

eat the January blues and start planning the perfect summer day out as the BBC Good Food Show heads back to Birmingham’s NEC this June. Discover everything you need for a delicious summer from hundreds of the finest independent and artisan producers, seasonal inspiration from the UK’s top chefs and experts, plus live entertainment and great kids activities outside in the sunshine. Don’t forget, your ticket includes entry to BBC Gardeners’ World Live too! It’s the perfect way to get into the spirit of summer and with readers saving 30% on tickets, it’s great value.

Readers save 30%* on tickets - quote GFR2 With thanks to our sponsor: Show sponsor

The best chefs LIVE The BBC Good Food Show is the only place where you can see such an array of chefs and experts cooking LIVE on a theatre stage. Enjoy live entertainment from a star-studded line-up including Michelin masters Tom Kerridge, Michel Roux Jr and Raymond Blanc, Show favourites Mary Berry and James Martin, plus more to be announced. Opt for a Super Ticket and choose to see your favourite.

From plot to plate The VIP Experience

Join the summer garden party and explore BBC Gardeners’ World Live as part of your ticket. Pick up top tips and ideas for growing your own from the nations favourite gardening experts including Alan Titchmarsh, Monty Don and Carol Klein.

Enjoy front block Big Kitchen seats, VIP Lounge, glass of fizz and more with our classic VIP package. Or find out more about VIP Luxe, back by popular demand. Let our dedicated Luxe team plan your day for you and enjoy extra Big Kitchen sessions, exclusive Luxe Lounge, complimentary bar and lots more.

bbcgoodfoodshow.com | 0844 581 1345 *Not valid on VIP packages, FEAST events, Gold Big Kitchen seats or with any other offer. Gold Big Kitchen seats cost an additional £3 and are subject to availability. Ends 31/01/18. £2.45 fulfilment fee per advance order. Calls cost 7p/minute plus phone company charges. Not all celebrities appear on all days. Details correct at time of print. The Good Food word mark and logo are trademarks of the BBC. ©BBC. Organised and presented by River Street Events.

EATS OUT

FREE GOODY BAG worth £25

at Broadgate Circle

Enjoy a fabulous Spanish lunch with leading chef José Pizarro on 25 Feburary

e’ve teamed up with one of our favourite chef contributors, José Pizarro, to plan a wonderful Sunday lunch at his buzzy restaurant, José Pizarro at Broadgate Circle – and you’re invited. José’s knowledge and passion for Spanish food is unbeatable, and his four London restaurants are always lively, with guests enjoying jamón, sherry and his signature dishes, including croquetas and tortilla. José and his team have created an exclusive menu of dishes to share for this special event. On the day, you will enjoy an introduction to sherry masterclass by González Byass and a jamón tasting by

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Cinco Jotas, then José will introduce the menu and share his experiences and stories of being a chef, restaurateur and cookbook author, followed by lunch, tea and coffee. Plus, you can buy an exclusive signed copy of José’s latest book, Catalonia, for just £15. DATE Sunday 25 February 2018 PLACE 36 Broadgate Circle, London EC2M 1QS TIME 12.30pm PRICE £70 per person, £65 for magazine

subscribers (see below) – includes goody bag worth £25. BOOK Call 0871 231 0847 (calls cost 13p per minute plus network extras) or visit seetickets.com/go/pizarro.

SUBSCRIBERS

Another great reason to subscribe to BBC Good Food magazine! Subscribers save £5, paying £65 per person. Turn to page 54 for your special subscriber code.

76 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Sample sharing menu Cheese selection Pan con tomate Gambas al ajillo Patatas bravas Squid ink croquetas Hake with salsa verde Meatballs with cuttlefish Ibérico pluma & piquillo peppers Borrachos de almendra

Eat your way to

better health Our seven-day diet plan is full of energising everyday meals to help kick-start your healthy eating for 2018 recipes SARA BUENFELD nutritional advice KERRY TORRENS photographs MIKE ENGLISH

healthy diet plan in association with

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 77

Feeling sluggish after the indulgent festive period? Whether your goal for the New Year is to lose weight, cut back on sugar or to simply try some new healthy recipes, we’re here to help. The following seven-day plan is packed with recipes and tips to help you eat well and combat hunger.

How our plan works Our triple-tested recipes – specially developed by our food writer, Sara Buenfeld, alongside nutritional therapist Kerry Torrens – are created using ingredients that don’t have any additives, and are packed with healthy fats, lean protein, slow-release carbs and a rainbow of healthy vegetables and fruits. If eaten as part of the plan, you can also expect to cut back on added sugar, lose excess pounds, increase energy levels, improve digestion and support your immune system. Our aim is to easily provide you with more than five of your 5-a-day and keep within the recommended Reference Intakes (RI) for fats, saturates, sugar, salt and kcals, and follow the latest guidance on your intake of ‘free’ sugars.For those who want to lose weight, the daily calorie count of up to 1,500 kcals will help you reach your goal. However, if you have an active lifestyle or you don’t want to lose weight, you’ll find lots of recipes for healthy snacks at bbcgoodfood.com.

Healthy suggestions

Don’t be afraid to include fat in your diet. It’s essential for good health as it helps your body absorb fat-soluble vitamins like A and D – you just need to make sure it’s the right type. Our plan includes healthy fats from avocados, oily fish and unsalted nuts and seeds, as well as some whole milk products. We’ve also used rapeseed oil because it has just 7% saturated fat (compared to 52% in butter), and provides more heart-healthy omega-3 fats than olive oil. Choose a cold-pressed version that can be used for all forms of cooking and dressings.

What to drink

Choose herbal teas and filtered water, but if you can’t kick the caffeine, one cup of coffee or black or green tea is fine. Avoid decaffinated versions that use chemicals.

78 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

health

Your 7-day diet plan breakfast Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday

lunch

supper

Herb omelette with fried tomatoes

Wild salmon & avocado triangles

Steaks with goulash sauce & sweet potato fries

Warming chocolate & banana porridge

Goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese, tomato & olive triangles

Spicy peanut chicken pies

Warming chocolate & banana porridge

Mushroom & potato soup

Spicy peanut chicken pies

Walnut & almond muesli with apple

Green bean & penne salad with tomato & olive dressing p85

Lamb & squash biryani with cucumber raita

Butternut & cinnamon oats

Brown rice tabbouleh with eggs & parsley

Mexican penne with avocado

Walnut & almond muesli with apple

Mushroom & potato soup

Lamb & squash biryani with cucumber raita

p81

p80

Butternut & cinnamon oats

p80

p82

p91

p89

p82

p87

p89

p88

p90

p84

p87

p88

Baked cod with goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese & thyme

p84

Beetroot & halloumi salad with pomegranate & dill p90

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 79

Energising breakfasts

Butternut & cinnamon oats

g min Warcolate & cho ana ban ridge por

Start your day with a filling breakfast to keep you satisfied until lunch

Walnut & almond muesli with apple

Butternut & cinnamon oats

Serve with full fat milk and whole bio yogurt. They contain 4% fat and are richer in essential vitamins A, D, E and K. This recipe makes enough for two mornings.

Butternut for breakfast won’t seem so unusual when you think of the flavours of a comforting pumpkin pie.

VEGAN

1 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW SAT FAT

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 2 mins EASY V

85g porridge oats 15g flaked almonds 15g walnut pieces 15g pumpkin seeds 1 tsp ground cinnamon

80g raisins 15g high fibre puffed wheat (we used Good Grain) 4 apples, no need to peel, grated milk, to serve

1 Put the porridge oats in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring frequently until they’re just starting to toast. Turn off the heat, then add all of the nuts, pumpkin seeds, and cinnamon, then stir everything together well. 2 Tip into a large bowl, stir to help it cool, then add the raisins and puffed wheat and toss together until well mixed. Tip half into a jar or airtight container and save for another day. It will keep at room temperature. Serve the rest in two bowls, grate over 2 apples and pour over some cold milk (use nut milk if you’re vegan) at the table. Save the other 2 apples to grate over the reserved muesli. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 285 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 42g • sugars 25g • fibre 4g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g

HEALTHY

1 OF 5-A-DAY

CALCIUM

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus overnight soaking COOK 10 mins EASY V

120g porridge oats 80g raisins 2 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra to serve 320g butternut squash, peeled and coarsely grated 2 x 150ml pots bio yogurt 25g walnuts roughly broken milk, to serve (optional)

1 Tip the oats, raisins and cinnamon into a large bowl and pour over 1 litre cold water. Cover the bowl and leave to soak overnight. 2 The next morning, tip the contents into a large saucepan and stir in the grated squash. Cook for about 8-10 mins over a medium heat, stirring frequently, until the oats are cooked and the squash is soft. Add a little more water if it’s too thick. 3 Put half of the mixture in the fridge for the next day. Spoon the remainder into bowls, top each portion with 1 pot yogurt and half the nuts. Dust with cinnamon, then warm through with a splash of milk. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • 1 of 5-a-day • low fat • calcium PER SERVING 310 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 2g • carbs 45g • sugars 22g • fibre 5g • protein 10g • salt 0.2g

80 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Warming chocolate & banana porridge

t& Walnu d n o m al i with muesl apple

The combination of banana, cocoa and vanilla adds a lovely flavour to these breakfast oats. If you can, soak the oats the night before – it’s better for your digestion and creates a much creamier texture. HEALTHY

1 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW FAT

SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus overnight soaking COOK 5 mins EASY V

120g porridge oats 4 tsp cocoa powder 1 tsp vanilla extract

4 bananas, 2 chopped 2 x 150ml pots bio yogurt milk, to serve (optional)

1 Put the oats, cocoa and vanilla in a large bowl and pour over 1 litre cold water. Cover the bowl and leave to soak overnight. 2 The next morning, tip the contents into a saucepan with the chopped banana. Cook over a medium heat for 5 mins, stirring frequently, until the oats are cooked. 3 Put half of the mixture in the fridge for the next day. Spoon the rest into two bowls, swirl in 1 pot yogurt and slice over a banana (save the other pot and banana for the next morning). Warm through with a splash of milk to reheat. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 259 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 42g • sugars 20g • fibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 0.2g

health

Herb omelette with fried tomatoes This is perfect for a Sunday breakfast. Tomatoes are a rich source of the beneficial phytonutrient lycopene, and cooking them makes it easier for our bodies to absorb it. HEALTHY

1 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW CAL

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

1 tsp rapeseed oil 3 tomatoes, halved 4 large eggs 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 tbsp chopped basil

1 Heat the oil in a small non-stick frying pan, then cook the tomatoes cut-side down until starting to soften and colour. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with the herbs and plenty of freshly ground black pepper in a small bowl. 2 Scoop the tomatoes from the pan and put them on two serving plates. Pour the egg mixture into the pan and stir gently with a wooden spoon so the egg that sets on the base of the pan moves to enable uncooked egg to flow into the space. Stop stirring when it’s nearly cooked to allow it to set into an omelette. Cut into four and serve with the tomatoes. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 204 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 3g • carbs 4g • sugars 4g • fibre 1g • protein 17g • salt 0.5g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 81

Make time for lunch These healthy lunches are simple to prepare – just pack them into a lunchbox or flask if you’re on the go

Wild salmon & avocado triangles You can poach the salmon for these while the bread thins are baking. We used frozen wild salmon fillets as they are very handy to keep in the freezer and the perfect portion size for this high protein lunch. OMEGA 3

1 OF 5-A-DAY

SERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 8-10 mins EASY

3 bread-thins (see recipe, left) 1 lemon, halved few dill sprigs, plus extra to serve

Triangular bread thins These are quick to make and perfect to turn into open sandwiches. Make them on Sunday and top with the salmon, then you’ll have three bread thins left over to make a simple lunch in the week. LOW FAT

1 small red onion, ½ sliced, the rest finely chopped 2 skinless, boneless wild salmon fillets 1 small avocado

1 While the bread thins are baking, bring a small pan of water to the boil and add a good squeeze of lemon, a few dill sprigs and the sliced onion. Add the fish and leave to poach for 8-10 mins or until it flakes easily. Lift from the pan and and flake into pieces. 2 Scoop the avocado into a bowl and roughly mash with a generous squeeze of lemon. Cut the bread triangles in half, put cut-side up and top with the avocado, scatter over half the chopped onion, then top with salmon, more onions and some snipped dill. Squeeze over some lemon to serve. GOOD TO KNOW omega 3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 572 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 6g • carbs 34g • sugars 4g • fibre 7g • protein 44g • salt 0.8g

MAKES 6 PREP 8 mins COOK 12 mins EASY V G

Goat’s cheese, tomato & olive triangles

190g plain wholemeal spelt flour, plus extra for dusting 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp baking powder 75ml live bio yogurt, made up to 150ml with cold water

These are really quick to put together before you rush off to work. Check the fat content when buying the cheese to ensure it isn’t too high in fat – we used one that was just 12g fat per 100g.

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Mix the flour, bicarbonate of soda and baking powder in a bowl, then stir in the diluted yogurt with the blade of a knife until you have a soft, sticky dough, adding a little water if the mix is dry. 2 Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape and flatten with your hands to make a 20cm round. Take care not to over-handle as it can make the bread tough. Lift onto the baking sheet and cut into six triangles, slightly easing them apart with the knife. Bake for about 10-12 mins – they don’t have to be golden, but should feel firm. Leave to cool on a wire rack. 3 Use three straight away to make the wild salmon & avocado triangles (right). The rest can be packed into a food bag to use in the goat’s cheese & cucumber triangles later in the week, or frozen until needed. GOOD TO KNOW low fat PER SERVING 115 kcals • fat 1g • saturates 0.3g • carbs 21g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g

82 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

LOW CAL

VIT C

3 OF 5-A-DAY

SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

3 bread thins (see recipe, left) 50g soft goat’s cheese 2 x 5cm lengths of cucumber, thinly sliced lengthways

3 tomatoes, sliced 4 Kalamata olives, finely chopped 2 small handfuls rocket leaves

Cut the bread thins in half, put cut-side up and spread with the goat’s cheese. Top with the cucumber and tomato, then scatter over the olives and top with the rocket. Eat straight away or pack into lunchboxes for later. GOOD TO KNOW low cal • low fat • vit c • folate • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 254 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 3g • carbs 36g • sugars 7g • fibre 6g • protein 12g • salt 1.1g

tip

Our recipes for lunch or supper that require a little more work can be enjoyed over two days or prepped ahead at the weekend.

health

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JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 83

Brown rice tabbouleh with eggs & parsley Cooking the rice with thyme and celery adds lots of flavour. Topped with eggs, it makes an easy lunch, but without them it would make a great side with lean lamb or chicken. 2 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW CAL

FIBRE

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

Baked cod with goat’s cheese & thyme This quick lunch is a simple way to add lean, high-protein white fish to your diet, along with spinach, an important source of vitamin K that helps maintain bone health. HEALTHY

LOW CAL

VIT C

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 12 mins EASY

1 tsp rapeseed oil 1 garlic clove, grated 200g spinach 2 x 125g skinless cod fillets

25g soft goat’s cheese 2 tomatoes, each sliced into 3 a few thyme leaves, to serve

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, add the garlic and fry very briefly to soften it. Tip in the spinach and stir until wilted. Spoon into the base of two gratin dishes, then top with the cod. Spread over some of the goat’s cheese and arrange the tomatoes on top. 2 Snip over a few thyme leaves, then bake for 10 mins until the fish flakes easily when tested. Serve in the dishes. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • vit c • folate • fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 200 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 26g • salt 0.5g

84 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

75g brown basmati rice fresh thyme sprig 160g celery, chopped 2 large eggs 1 tsp vegetable bouillon 1 small lemon, zested and juiced 1 small red onion, finely chopped 3 tbsp chopped parsley 1 /2 pomegranate, seeds only

1 Simmer the rice with the thyme and celery for 20 mins until tender. Meanwhile, boil the eggs for 7 mins, then cool in cold water and carefully peel off the shell. 2 Drain the rice and tip into a bowl. Add the bouillon, lemon zest and juice, and red onion, then stir well and scatter over the parsley and pomegranate. Spoon onto plates or into lunchboxes, then halve or quarter the eggs and arrange on top. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • fibre • vit c • folate • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 304 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 2g • carbs 39g • sugars 10g • fibre 6g • protein 15g • salt 0.5g

health

Green bean & penne salad with tomato & olive dressing If you’re bored with healthy dressings made with lemon and oil, you’ll love this flavourful tomato version, which adds to your 5-a-day. VEGAN

3 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW CAL

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 12 mins EASY V

75g wholemeal penne 160g green beans, trimmed and cut into short lengths 1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced 2 tomatoes, chopped

1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 10g basil leaves 4 Kalamata olives, chopped large handful rocket

1 Boil the pasta in a pan of water for 5 mins. Add the beans and onion, return to the boil and cook for 5 mins more. 2 Meanwhile, put the tomatoes in a bowl with the oil, vinegar and basil (saving a couple of leaves), then blitz with a hand blender to make a dressing. 3 Drain the pasta and beans, tip into the dressing, add the olives and mix well. Spoon onto plates and top with the basil leaves and rocket, or pack into lunchboxes, cool, then top with the rocket and basil. Can be chilled for up to one day. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 265 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 36g • sugars 10g • fibre 9g • protein 9g • salt 0.3g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 85

health

Mushroom & potato soup This filling veg-packed soup makes enough to save half for lunch the next day. 3 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW CAL

GLUTEN FREE

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced 20g dried porcini mushrooms 3 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 300g chestnut mushrooms, chopped

86 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2017

3 garlic cloves, finely grated 300g potato, finely diced 2 tsp fresh thyme 4 carrots, finely diced 2 tbsp chopped parsley 8 tbsp bio yogurt 55g walnut pieces

1 Heat the oil in a large pan. Tip in the onions and fry for 10 mins until golden. Meanwhile, pour 1.2 litres boiling water over the dried mushrooms and stir in the bouillon. 2 Add the fresh mushrooms and garlic to the pan with the potatoes, thyme and carrots, and continue to fry until the mushrooms soften and start to brown. 3 Pour in the dried mushrooms and stock, cover the pan and leave to simmer for 20 mins. Stir in the parsley and plenty of pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve each portion topped with 2 tbsp yogurt and a quarter of the walnuts. The rest can be chilled and reheated the next day. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 315 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 2g • carbs 33g • sugars 17g • fibre 9g • protein 12g • salt 0.3g

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Your

LETTUCE This salad staple is more versatile than you might think. Use it in a falafel wrap or to dress burgers, add to the blender when making a smoothie, or grill for a smoky flavour.

SUPER You’ll find abundant great-value, fresh, high-quality ingredients instore at Aldi

ooking forward to tucking into some fresh homemade dishes? Aldi, crowned Fresh Produce Supermarket of the Year in 2015, 2016 and 2017, stocks an impressive selection of versatile fresh ingredients, all at great prices. Here are some suggestions for different ways to use them, so you can get the most out of your weekly shop.

RADISHES These scarlet gems pack a punch with their fiery, mustardlike flavour. Eat them raw with butter, toss into a risotto or salad, add to your tacos, or roast or pickle them.

SPRING ONIONS Tiny onions that add a burst of flavour to any dish, hot or cold. They’re particularly tasty in stir-fries and salads, as well as used for garnishing.

TOMATOES The flavoursome tomato is a kitchen essential. Use it to make fresh salsa, pasta sauces, salads or homemade soup, add it to sandwiches or even top on pizzas.

BEETROOT CELERY Thanks to its lovely tanginess, celery is perfect with dips or filled with peanut butter!

With a sweet, earthy flavour and vivid colour, beetroot is a delicious addition to a range of dishes – including cakes! Eat it raw or use to make beet juice, or try pickling, boiling, frying or roasting it.

Visit your local Aldi today for more amazing fresh produce

Sit down to a healthy supper

Sitting down to take your time over dinner will help your digestion

Lamb & squash biryani with cucumber raita Eat half when you make this, and chill the remaining biryani and reheat in the microwave. 3 OF 5-A-DAY

IRON

FIBRE

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

4 lean lamb steaks (about 400g), trimmed of all fat, cut into chunks 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 8 tsp chopped fresh ginger 3 tsp ground coriander 4 tsp rapeseed oil 4 onions, sliced 2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped 170g brown basmati rice 320g diced butternut squash 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 20cm length cucumber, grated 100ml bio yogurt 4 tbsp chopped mint, plus a few extra leaves 2 /3 small pack coriander, chopped

1 Mix the lamb with the grated garlic, 2 tsp chopped ginger and 1 tsp ground coriander and set aside. 2 Heat 2 tsp oil in a non-stick pan. Add the onions, the remaining ginger and chilli and stir-fry briefly over a high heat so they start to soften. Add the rice and squash and stir over the heat for a few mins. Tip in all the remaining spices, then stir in 500ml boiling water and the bouillon. Cover the pan and simmer for 20 mins. 3 Meanwhile, mix the cucumber, yogurt and mint together in a bowl to make a raita. Chill half for later. 4 About 5 mins before the rice is ready, heat the remaining oil in a non-stick frying pan, add the lamb and stir for a few mins until browned but still tender. Toss into the spiced rice with the coriander and serve with the raita and a few mint or coriander leaves on top. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • iron • fibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 463 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 4g • carbs 49g • sugars 12g • fibre 7g • protein 30g • salt 0.4g

88 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

health

Spicy peanut chicken pies Potatoes are rich in vitamin C and a good source of potassium and B6. Unlike sweet potatoes, they don’t count towards your 5-a-day, so we’ve added beans to create a protein-rich mash. HEALTHY

5 OF 5-A-DAY

IRON

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

500g potatoes, peeled and chopped 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans, drained 3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander 1 tsp chilli powder for the chicken filling 2 tsp rapeseed oil 2 tbsp finely chopped ginger 1 red chilli, deseeded if you don’t like it hot 2 tbsp cumin seeds 2 tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp chilli powder

400g leeks, thickly sliced 1 red and 1 green pepper, deseeded and diced 2 large skinless chicken breasts, about 400g, diced 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 tbsp tomato purée 2 tsp vegetable bouillon 3 tbsp peanut butter (with no sugar or palm oil) 320g broccoli

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook the potatoes in a steamer for 15 mins until tender. Meanwhile, start the chicken filling. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan, add the ginger and chilli, and stir over a medium heat until starting to soften. Stir in the dried spices, leeks and peppers. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened. 2 Add the chicken and stir-fry until it begins to colour, then tip in the tomatoes, squeeze in some tomato purée and add the bouillon and 150ml water. Cover and simmer for 10 mins. 3 Mix the peanut butter with 100ml water, then stir into the stew and cook for 5 mins more. Spoon the mixture equally into two 24 x 18cm shallow pie dishes. 4 For the mash, tip the beans into a bowl, add the coriander and chilli powder and mash well. Add the potatoes and roughly mash into the beans so it still has a little texture. Pile on top of the filling in the pie dishes and carefully spread over the filling to enclose it. Bake one of the pies for 35 mins. 5 Meanwhile, cook half of the broccoli and serve with the pie. Chill the other pie with the remaining broccoli for another day. Will keep chilled for up to three days. Reheat the remaining pie as above, adding an extra 15 mins to the cook time. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • vit c • folate • iron • fibre • 5 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 523 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 54g • sugars 14g • fibre 15g • protein 43g • salt 1.2g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 89

Mexican penne with avocado This contains an amazing five of your 5-a-day, and is packed full of flavour. We’ve used a variety of coloured vegetables from red, orange and yellow to green. Avocado is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, especially oleic acid, which can help reduce inflammation. 5 OF 5-A-DAY

LOW CAL

IRON

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

100g wholemeal penne 1 tsp rapeseed oil 1 large onion, sliced, plus 1 tbsp finely chopped 1 orange pepper, deseeded and cut into chunks 2 garlic cloves, grated 2 tsp mild chilli powder 1 tsp ground coriander 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds

3 OF 5-A-DAY

CALCIUM

VIT C

SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 1-2 mins EASY V

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 oranges 4 handfuls rocket leaves 2 cooked beetroots, chopped rapeseed oil, for frying

80g thinly sliced halloumi, slices halved 80g pomegranate seeds 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds handful mint leaves few dill sprigs, chopped

1 Toss the onion and vinegar in a bowl and set aside. Squeeze the juice from 1 orange and segment the other. 2 Pile the rocket onto plates and dot over the beetroot and orange. Rub a drop of oil round a non-stick frying pan, then fry the halloumi in the pan for about 30 secs each side until golden. 3 Stir the orange juice and pomegranate into the onions and spoon over the rocket, then top with the halloumi. Scatter over the pumpkin seeds, mint and dill to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 371 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 8g • carbs 29g • sugars 24g • fibre 8g • protein 20g • salt 1.4g

90 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 Cook the pasta in salted water for 10-12 mins until al dente. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium pan. Add the sliced onion and pepper and fry, stirring frequently for 10 mins until golden. Stir in the garlic and spices, then tip in the tomatoes, half a can of water, the corn and bouillon. Cover and simmer for 15 mins. 2 Meanwhile, toss the avocado with the lime juice and zest, and the finely chopped onion. 3 Drain the penne and toss into the sauce with the coriander. Spoon the pasta into bowls, top with the avocado and scatter over the coriander leaves. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • fibre • vit c • iron • 5 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 495 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 3g • carbs 65g • sugars 26g • fibre 18g • protein 15g • salt 0.4g Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist SARA BUENFELD | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Beetroot & halloumi salad with pomegranate & dill

400g can chopped tomatoes 196g can sweetcorn in water 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 1 avocado, stoned and chopped 1 /2 lime, zested and juiced handful coriander, chopped, plus extra to serve

health

Steaks with goulash sauce & sweet potato fries Sweet potato fries will add to your 5-a-day, unlike ordinary potatoes. HEALTHY

LOW CAL

IRON

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

3 tsp rapeseed oil, plus extra for the steaks 250g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into narrow chips 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves 2 small onions, halved and sliced (190g) 1 green pepper, deseeded and diced 2 garlic cloves, sliced 1 tsp smoked paprika

85g cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder 2 x 125g fillet steaks, rubbed with a little rapeseed oil 200g bag baby spinach, wilted in a microwave or pan

1 Heat oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 7 and put a wire rack on top of a baking tray. Toss the sweet potatoes and thyme with 2 tsp oil in a bowl, then scatter them over the rack and set aside until ready to cook. 2 Heat 1 tsp oil in a non-stick pan, add the onions, cover the pan and leave to cook for 5 mins. Take off the lid and stir – they should be a little charred now. Stir in the green pepper and garlic, cover the pan and cook for 5 mins more. Put the potatoes in the oven and bake for 15 mins. 3 While the potatoes are cooking, stir the paprika into the onions and peppers, pour in 150ml water and stir in the cherry tomatoes, tomato purée and bouillon. Cover and simmer for 10 mins. 4 Pan fry the steak in a hot, non-stick pan for 2-3 mins each side depending on their thickness. Rest for 5 mins. Spoon the goulash sauce onto plates and top with the beef. Serve the chips and spinach alongside.

Inspired to follow this plan long-term? Look out for a new recipe in every issue of Good Food, and a new summer plan in our June issue so you can feel great all year round.

GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • low fat • folate • fibre • iron • vit c • 5 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 452 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 4g • carbs 43g • sugars 26g • fibre 12g • protein 33g • salt 0.5g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 91

Enjoy plant power This year, put plants first and discover a delicious, fuss-free way of eating that’s good for you

lant-based eating is simple. It’s all about adding more plants to your meals and making them the star of the show. Whether that means an extra handful of veggies in your stir-fry, chopped nuts and berries mixed into your porridge, or a midweek main that’s centred around wholegrains and pulses, like a spicy lentil dhal, the choice is yours. The great news is that eating this way is good for you because plant-based foods tend to be high in fibre, low in saturated fat and packed with vitamins and minerals. As there are so many tasty plant-based ingredients to discover, it’s easier than you might think to make a positive change. Stock up on veg, celebrate nuts, seeds and cereals, and experiment with Alpro’s delicious range of products. Then, get creative. Bring plants from the side of the plate and make them the main event – they’ll help brighten all your meals from breakfast through to dinner. So, what are you waiting for? Make over your mealtimes and put plants first. Try these recipes to get you started.

Apple crumble smoothie

SERVES 3-4 1 PREP 5 mins 1 COOK 5 mins 1 EASY

Plant bites

Plant-based eating, which can include ingredients like fruit, veg, pulses and Alpro’s plant-based range, is all about adding plants to your plate in the way that works best for you. From the drinks such as Almond Unsweetened and Soya Original, to plant-based alternatives to yogurt and ice-cream like the snack-sized Go On, Simply Plain Big Pot and Alpro Ice Cream, Alpro products are full of plant goodness. It’s the perfect way to add more plants to your day.

2 apples, peeled, cored and quartered 1 cinnamon stick 1 tsp honey 1 frozen banana, broken into chunks 50g porridge oats 300ml Alpro Oat Original drink ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ tsp vanilla powder

1 Add the apples, cinnamon stick, honey

and 250ml water to a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer for 5 mins or until cooked through, then remove from the heat. Take out and discard the cinnamon stick. Leave to cool. 2 Put the apple mixture, along with all the other ingredients, into a blender and blitz until smooth, then serve. PER SERVING 161 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 0.4g • carbs 28g • sugars 13g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.1g

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Lentil patties

SERVES 6-8 1 PREP 10 mins plus resting 1 COOK 40 mins 1 EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ tsp turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp chilli flakes 200g porridge oats 3 x 400g tins lentils, drained 150ml Alpro Plain Unsweetened No Sugars Big Pot plant-based alternative to yogurt handful fresh coriander, chopped 2 large tomatoes, seeds removed and finely chopped brioche buns or flatbread, to serve salad, to serve

For the tzatziki

200ml Alpro Plain Unsweetened No Sugars Big Pot plant-based alternative to yogurt 1 cucumber, grated 1 garlic clove, crushed handful fresh dill, finely chopped ¼ tsp garam masala ½ lemon, juiced

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan

gas 6 and line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Heat the oil in a pan, then gently fry the onions for 5 mins. Add the garlic and fry until it’s cooked through, then add 1 tsp salt, black pepper to taste, turmeric, cumin and chilli. Stir to

combine, then take off the heat. 2 In a food processor, grind the oats until fine, then add the lentils and Alpro Plain Unsweetened Big Pot, and mix thoroughly. Transfer the mixture to a bowl along with the cooked onions and spice mix, coriander and tomatoes. Mix, set aside for 20 mins. 3 When ready, shape the mixture into 8 equal-sized patties and put on the baking sheet, leaving space between them. Cook for 25-30 mins, turning them once

halfway through. 4 To make the tzatziki, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Serve the patties with the tzatziki and a crunchy salad in a brioche bun or on flatbread. PER SERVING 472 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 63g • sugars 7g • fibre 17g • protein 21g • salt 1.7g

For more tasty recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com/alpro

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Make food preparation simple with this multifunctional food processor from Cooks Professional. The processor comes with a range of accessories you can use to grind coffee beans or nuts, peel potatoes, and mix dough, as well as a 2.4-litre chopping bowl and 1.5-litre blender jug attachment to make large quantities of fresh smoothies and juices. To achieve great results, simply select the attachment you need, put your ingredients into one of the bowls, and pick a speed using the control dial.

There are a variety of speed settings; choose from pulse or smoothie, or from minimum to maximum. There’s no need to worry if the jug isn’t fitted properly as there’s a built-in safety function that won’t allow the blender to work unless it’s in place. Versatile but compact, this food processor is great for those looking for a product that has all these essential features for blending, mixing, grating and juicing, without taking up all your precious worktop space. Code: G1231

Includes z 2.4-litre mixing/chopping bowl with pusher z 1.5-litre blender and juicing jug z Grinder cup with blade z Whisk attachment z Citrus juicer attachments z Metal blade for chopping meat z Plastic blade for kneading dough z Metal disks for mashing, coarse sheading, thin sheading and for julienne style chips z Spatula z Mini chipping bowl and blade

To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 77679 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/77679 You can also send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: Good Food Offer 77679, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Please add £4.95 to your order total for p&p. TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Please allow £4.95 per order for p&p **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. Delivery within 7 working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs not refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A SIGNATURE IS REQUIRED ON DELIVERY.

94 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

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weekend

Whether you're looking forward to a cosy night in or cooking for friends, enjoy the best of what's in season with these warming recipes from top BBC chefs and Wreckfish Bistro

In season Mussels with chorizo, beans & cavolo nero by Rosie Birkett, p97

Star ingredient Diana Henry's warming prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew, p110

Restaurant menu Steamed marmalade sponge from Wreckfish Bistro, p123

Beef & Guinness stew p107

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 95

Put the joy

in January

Take comfort in the winter kitchen with these new seasonal recipes from food writer Rosie Birkett photographs DAVID MUNNS

anuary can be a funny one. It tends to be the month that’s most demonised as being cold, wintery and unforgiving. Everyone’s on a post-Christmas come-down, and so many are sucked into the ‘New Year, new you’ detox. I, on the other hand, have to make the best of it. My birthday is in January, so I’d like it to have a better reputation. I think we should try to be kind to ourselves after Christmas – pleasurable, indulgent and nourishing meals are my way of coping with chilly days and nights. From the meltingly tender citrus-marinated chicken

96 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Good Food contributing editor Rosie Birkett is a food writer and stylist. Her cookbook, A Lot on Her Plate, is out now (£25, Hardie Grant). @rosiefoodie

to an easy caramelised onion and chicory tatin, I’ve made sure that these recipes not only make the best of what’s in season, but that they’re comforting and simple to throw together, when all you really want to do is curl up on the sofa in front of the TV.

weekend

Mussels with chorizo, beans & cavolo nero The bold flavours of mussels and chorizo are perfect against the mellow cannellini beans. I’m growing cavolo nero on my allotment, and it’s just such a lovely leafy vegetable to use because it stands up to being cooked with the punchy chorizo. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

2 shallots, finely chopped small bunch parsley, stalks and leaves separated and chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 100g cooking chorizo, skin removed and chopped 1 tbsp olive oil

100g cavolo nero, stems discarded, leaves shredded 150ml white wine or sherry 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 500g mussels, cleaned and beards removed 1 lemon, halved

1 Gently cook the shallots, parsley stalks, garlic and chorizo in the oil in a large pan with a lid or casserole dish, until the shallots are softened – about 5 mins. Add the cavolo nero and cook for a couple more mins, then add the wine and cook for another 1 min. 2 Stir in the beans, then add the mussels, ensuring they’re wellcoated with the sauce, and cover with the lid. Cook for a few mins, shaking the pan to release the mussel juices, until they’ve all opened (discard any that haven’t). Scatter over the parsley leaves and squeeze over the lemon to serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 596 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 8g • carbs 24g • sugars 5g • fibre 10g • protein 49g • salt 3.4g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 97

Caramelised onion & chicory tart with Gorgonzola

Blue cheese and chicory is a classic combination, so I’ve used creamy Gorgonzola to top this tatin-style tart, along with some hazelnuts for extra crunch. This makes a really nice starter or serve instead of a cheese course. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

1 sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp butter 4 thyme sprigs 1 tbsp brown sugar 2 small onions, peeled and cut into thick round slices 2 heads of red chicory, trimmed and sliced in half lengthways ½ lemon, juiced 75g Gorgonzola (or vegetarian alternative) 1 tbsp toasted hazelnuts (optional)

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut a round of pastry the same size as the ovenproof pan you are using, then put it on a baking sheet. Leave to chill in the fridge for at least 30 mins. 2 Heat the oil, butter and thyme in the pan until the butter has melted. Add the sugar and stir in. Put the onions and chicory cut-side down in the tin. Season and allow to caramelise for about 10 mins. Squeeze over the lemon juice, then remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. 3 Put the disc of pastry on top and push it down around the edges of the pan, so it’s encasing the contents. Pierce the pastry with a knife all over to let out the steam, then bake in the oven for 40 mins, or until the pastry is puffed and golden. Allow to cool for 10 mins before carefully turning out onto a plate. Don’t panic if it sticks to the pan – you can gently scrape the pieces off using a palette knife, then set them back in the tart. Season. Tear the cheese over the top, scatter over the hazelnuts, if using, then drizzle with a little more olive oil to serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 477 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 15g • carbs 35g • sugars 8g • fibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 1.3g

Roast chicken with oranges, chicory & spelt This simple chicken supper can be prepped ahead and cooked a couple of hours before your guests arrive, for dinner party-worthy results. The bitter orange and chicory cut through the rich chicken beautifully, and the spelt picks up the flavourful juices. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus 6 hrs marinating COOK 2 hrs EASY

4 bone-in chicken thighs, skin on 100ml vermouth 1 tbsp olive oil 2 heads of chicory, halved 2 oranges, halved 200g pearled spelt, cooked with a bay leaf following pack instructions 1 tbsp chopped parsley splash of red wine vinegar (optional) For the marinade 3 tbsp olive oil 4 small shallots, halved 2 thyme sprigs, leaves removed 1 orange, zested and juiced 2 garlic cloves, crushed pinch of red chilli flakes 2 tsp honey 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

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1 To make the marinade, whisk all the ingredients together and season. Thoroughly coat the chicken in the marinade and leave for 6 hrs, or preferably overnight. 2 Remove the chicken from the fridge 30 mins before cooking. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Tip the chicken and its marinade into a roasting tin along with the vermouth. Cover the tin with foil and roast in the oven for 1 hr 40 mins. 3 Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil over a medium to high heat in a frying pan. Put the chicory and orange halves cut-side down in the pan, and cook for 5 mins until caramelised. Set aside until the chicken is ready. 4 Remove the foil from the roasting tin and add the caramelised chicory and oranges, squeezing over the juice of one. Turn the heat up to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and cook for a further 15 mins, until the chicken is nicely caramelised. Remove the tin from the oven and transfer the chicken, chicory and oranges to a plate and keep warm. 5 Put the roasting tin over a medium heat on the hob, and squeeze in the juice of half a caramelised orange, adding a little water and using a wooden spoon to scrape up any crispy bits. Cook until the juices are reduced to a sauce that coats the back of a spoon. Toss the cooked spelt through the juices, then add the parsley. Taste and season, adding the red wine vinegar, if you like. Divide the spelt between two plates and top with the chicken, chicory and half a caramelised orange to squeeze over. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,092 kcals • fat 50g • saturates 10g • carbs 90g • sugars 33g • fibre 16g • protein 050g • salt 0.5g

weekend

Hake with paprika oil potatoes I just got back from Galicia, where hake is revered as a fish for its meaty white flakes and subtle, gentle flavour. Galicians keep things simple with their fish and seafood, often serving it unadorned with comforting boiled potatoes and paprika oil (famously served with octopus). We have great hake in this country too, and I’ve allowed the fish to take centre stage with just a little paprika oil to lift it. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

200g potatoes, peeled and chopped into chunks 2 bay leaves 60ml olive oil, plus 1 tbsp 1 parsley sprig 1 red onion, finely sliced 150ml white wine, plus 1 tbsp

2 hake steaks, about 160g each 160g purple sprouting broccoli ½ lemon, juiced 1 tbsp smoked paprika

1 Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Boil the potatoes in a pan of salted water with a bay leaf for about 12 mins, or until tender. Drain, reserving the cooking water. 2 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil with a bay leaf in a non-stick frying pan. Add the red onion, season with salt and pepper and fry gently. After 5 mins add a tbsp of white wine and cook for a further 10-15 mins, until softened, fragrant and starting to caramelise. 3 Season the hake steaks and rub with a little olive oil. Put them in a roasting tin and pour in the wine and 100ml of the potato water, along with the tbsp olive oil and parsley sprig. Cook for 10 mins in the oven, or until the steaks are opaque and flaking.

4 Cook the broccoli in salted water for 3-6 mins (depending on thickness) until tender. Season with lemon juice and black pepper. Pour the rest of the oil into the onion pan and gently warm it – you want it warm, but not scalding or sizzling. Stir in the smoked paprika, then turn off the heat. 5 When the fish is ready, toss the potatoes through the onions and warm oil, and divide between plates. Remove the fish from the water with a fish slice and put on the plates with the broccoli. Drizzle over the remaining paprika oil and serve. GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 669 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 6g • carbs 26g • sugars 9g • fibre 7g • protein 34g • salt 0.5g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 99

To make these dairy-free, use the same quantity of coconut oil instead of butter. You still get the essential buttery crunch of a traditional flapjack, it will just be a bit more crumbly. MAKES 12 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 25 mins EASY V

200g porridge or jumbo oats 120g unsalted butter, melted and cooled 1 orange, zested and juiced 100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped 80g brown sugar 100ml golden syrup

100 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a 25 x 18cm baking tin with baking parchment. Put the oats in a bowl with a pinch of salt. 2 Gently melt the butter in a small pan with the sugar and syrup. Once melted, remove from the heat and allow to cool for a couple of mins. Grate the orange zest into the pan and squeeze in the juice. Pour into the oats and stir thoroughly, until it’s all combined, then add three quarters of the chopped chocolate.

Pour the whole mix into the baking tin and press down with the back of a spoon. Press the remaining chocolate into the tray, then bake for 15-20 mins, until golden. Cut into squares and remove from the tin. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack before serving. PER SERVING 243 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 27g • sugars 15g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g

Recipes ROSIE BIRKETT | Shoot director MARTIN TOPPING | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN

Chocolate orange flapjacks

weekend

Blood orange & yogurt bundts with Campari glaze As soon as blood oranges are in season, I use them in everything from salads and sauces to desserts. Here, the zest and juice is paired with creamy yogurt to make a rich, moist sponge. The Campari drizzle plays to the bitterness of the orange, and the cardamom gives a lovely aromatic lift. MAKES 12 cakes PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins MORE EFFORT V

80g almond flour 80g plain flour 80g light spelt flour 2 tsp baking powder 11/2 tsp ground cardamom 130g Greek yogurt 4 large eggs 250g golden caster sugar 150g coconut oil, melted and cooled 2 blood oranges, zested and juiced 1 /2 lemon For the glaze 4 tbsp Campari ½ blood orange, zested and juiced 2 tbsp natural yogurt 80g icing sugar You will need 12 small silicone bundt moulds

1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Sift the flours, 1 tsp of the baking powder, a pinch of salt and cardamom in a bowl and lightly whisk together. Spoon the yogurt into another bowl with the other tsp of baking powder and stir. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the eggs and sugar for about 3-4 mins, until pale and frothy. 2 Sift half the flour mixture into the egg and sugar mix, then use a large metal spoon or silicone spatula to gently fold it through, being careful not to knock out too much air. Once combined, scrape the yogurt into the mix and fold it in. Sift in the rest of the flour mix and fold it in again. Now pour the melted, cooled oil down the sides of the bowl and carefully but quickly fold that in. Pour in the citrus zest and juice and give it a few final folds to combine. You should have a creamy, airy batter. 3 Pour ithe mixture into silicone bundt moulds on a baking sheet. Bake for 20-25 mins, or until a skewer inserted comes out clean. Remove from the moulds and leave to cool on wire racks. 4 To make the glaze, heat the Campari in a pan until reduced to 1 tbsp, then pour into a bowl and allow to cool. Whisk in the orange zest and juice, a pinch of salt and the yogurt, then sieve in the icing sugar and whisk until you have a smooth glaze. Drizzle over the bundts and serve. PER SERVING 381 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 13g • carbs 41g • sugars 31g • fibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g

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New wines for the

New Year

Stock up for the year ahead with specially curated wines. Here, Henry Jeffreys highlights two wines from this month’s mixed case and suggests a pairing with recipes from this issue

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through over 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He is also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His first book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Find Henry’s tasting notes, including food pairings, for all the selected wines at bbcgoodfood.com/ wine-club.

Picco Attila Chardonnay Ribolla Gialla Venezie 2015

This is such a clever blend of Chardonnay with a grape that’s rapidly gaining cult status, Ribolla Gialla, a native of north east Italy. It’s very fresh and saline with amazing after notes of apricot and almond, creating a wine with real complexity. It’s powerful enough to be paired with the mussels with chorizo, beans & cavolo nero on page 97.

Mussels with chorizo, beans & cavolo nero

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AM Adega de Monção Vinho Verde 2016 From the cool rainy north of Portugal, Vinho Verde means green wine referring to the fact that it is meant be drunk young. A seafood wine par excellence, this is a blend of Alvarinho and Trajadura. A refreshing wine, it’s bright and citrussy with a slight sparkle and only 11.5% alcohol. Try it with the prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew on page 110. Q For more details about this month’s cases, visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com.

Prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew

Mixed case – save over £60

Mixed case – only £4.59 a bottle! Order this case for just £54.99 (saving over £60)

This mixed case provides everything you need to survive the winter. There are fireside reds and zingy whites to tantalise your palate. In the warming corner there’s an oak-aged Spanish blend, a Sicilian Nero D’Avola made from very old vines and a southern French red that will appeal to lovers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The whites include a Chardonnay blend from near Venice, a perennial classic in the shape of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and finally a refreshingly bright Vinho Verde – the perfect wine for entertaining.

Free

bottle of PROSECCO and TWO DARTINGTON FLUTES (together usually £30.99)

To start your wine adventure

Simply choose an introductory case today. White and mixed cases are also available – visit the website, below, for details. We’ll suggest new cases every 12 weeks. There’s zero obligation and we guarantee you’ll enjoy every bottle – or your money back!

• Wines exclusively hand-picked by our experts • A saving of over £60 on your first case • FREE bottle of prosecco and two elegant Dartington crystal flutes to drink it from (together usually £30.99). • FREE delivery to your door (usually £7.99) • Tasting notes with the stories of each wine

To order, visit

bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/VWK1A

subscriber

or call 03300 242 855 quoting code VWK1A BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite’s. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 26/1/18. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be notified of the next wine plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless

Subscribers, turn to page 54 for your special offer

you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 103

One-pot warmers TOM KERRIDGE’S

One-pot cooking not only saves on washing-up but also stops flavour being lost during the cooking process. Bring to the table and serve straight from the dish photographs PETER CASSIDY

Thai shellfish pot, p106

Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is a BBC presenter and chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers, The Coach and new venture The Butcher’s Tap – all in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. His latest book, Lose Weight for Good (£22, Absolute Press), is out now. @ChefTomKerridge

weekend

Lamb biryani

I’m a big fan of Indian food, and love the range of regional dishes. Biryani is a real favourite of mine, especially when cooked dum-style, whereby the ingredients steam in their own juices under a dough crust, which traps in all the amazing spices. Instead of dough, I’ve used a tight lid of tin foil, which works just as well. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins plus at least 2 hrs marinating COOK 50 mins plus resting EASY

400g lamb neck, cut into small cubes 4 garlic cloves, grated 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 tbsp each cumin seeds and nigella seeds 1 tbsp Madras spice paste 200g basmati rice, rinsed well 8 curry leaves 400ml good-quality lamb or chicken stock 100g paneer, chopped 200g spinach, cooked and water squeezed out To serve chopped coriander sliced green chillies plain yogurt

1 Toss the lamb in a bowl with the garlic, ginger and a large pinch of salt. Marinate in the fridge overnight or for at least a couple of hours. 2 Heat the oil in a casserole. Fry the lamb for 5-10 mins until starting to brown. Add the onion, cumin seeds and nigella seeds, and cook for 5 mins until starting to soften. Stir in the curry paste, then cook for 1 min more. Scatter in the rice and curry leaves, then pour over the stock and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 3 Stir in the paneer, spinach and some seasoning. Cover the dish with a tight lid of foil, then put the lid on to ensure it’s well sealed. Cook in the oven for 20 mins, then leave to stand, covered, for 10 mins. Bring the dish to the table, remove the lid and foil, scatter with the coriander and chillies and serve with yogurt on the side. PER SERVING 394 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 8g • carbs 31g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 23g • salt 0.6g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 105

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 50 mins EASY G

1 tbsp sunflower oil 16 chipolatas (I used spicy chorizo ones because I love the chilli heat) 2 onions, sliced 2 celery sticks, sliced 8 garlic cloves, sliced 1 rosemary sprig 600ml chicken stock 2 x 400g cans butter beans, drained 75g butter, cubed small pack parsley, leaves picked and chopped 2 lemons, zested crusty bread, to serve

1 Gently heat the oil in a large pan. Fry the sausages all over until brown, then remove and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and fry for 5-10 mins until golden and soft, then add the celery, garlic and rosemary, and cook for 2 mins more. Pour over the stock and bring to the boil. 2 Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 mins, then add the sausages back to the pan along with the butter beans. Simmer for 8 mins, then stir in the butter, parsley and lemon zest. Ladle into bowls and serve piping hot with lots of chunky bread. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 739 kcals • fat 52g • saturates 22g • carbs 33g • sugars 9g • fibre 14g • protein 29g • salt 2.7g

Thai shellfish pot

Thai flavours go well with all fish and seafood, so you can use your favourites in this dish. I’ve used squid, white fish and mussels, but large prawns, clams or cracked crab claws would all work very well. I’ve made my own curry paste to add extra vibrancy, but a goodquality ready-made red curry paste is fine if you’re short on time. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

1 tbsp sunflower oil 4 lime leaves 200g prepared squid, cut into rings 400ml coconut milk 300g boneless firm white fish like monkfish or hake, cut into chunks 500g mussels, cleaned For the curry paste 1 large shallot, sliced 1 lemongrass stalk, shredded 2 red chillies, sliced 5 garlic cloves thumb-sized piece of galangal or ginger, peeled and sliced 1 tsp each ground coriander and ground cumin 2 tbsp fish sauce 4 tbsp roasted peanuts 1 tsp soft brown sugar To serve chopped coriander sliced chillies lime wedges

1 For the curry paste, put all the ingredients in a spice grinder or blender and blitz to a fine paste. Will keep in the fridge for a few days. 2 Heat the oil in a wok or casserole dish. Add the curry paste and lime leaves, and fry for a minute or so. Stir in the squid so it’s coated all over in the paste, then pour over the coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, then submerge the white fish in the sauce and scatter over the mussels. Cover the wok with a lid and cook for 5-8 mins or until the mussel shells are fully open and the fish is just cooked. Sprinkle with the coriander and chilli, then put in the middle of the table, along with the lime wedges. Let everyone help themselves GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 538 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 18g • carbs 10g • sugars 50g • fibre 5g • protein 39g • salt 2.7g

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Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL

Butter beans tend to be underused in recipes, but they soak up the flavour of what they’re cooked in really well, including this braise.

Shoot directors ELIZABETH GALBRAITH AND PETER RÜPSCHL

Sausage & butter bean simmer-and-serve

weekend

Beef & Guinness stew with bacon dumplings Hearty stews typify winter. They’re comforting and make you feel properly cosy. Dumplings add an extra layer of warmth, but you could also simply top the stew with pastry and call it a pie. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 3 hrs MORE EFFORT G stew only

2 tbsp vegetable oil 1kg boneless beef shin, cut into 3cm chunks 200g pearl onions or small shallots 4 medium carrots, chopped to the same size as the shallots 3 celery sticks, cut into bite-sized chunks 3 tbsp plain flour 500ml beef or chicken stock 500ml Guinness 1 large thyme sprig 4 star anise buttered cabbage and mash, to serve For the dumplings 100g, smoked bacon, finely minced ½ tbsp oil 1 tsp thyme leaves 125g self-raising flour 60g beef suet 1 egg yolk small pack parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped

3 Remove the stew from the oven and arrange the dumplings evenly on top. Put the lid back on and return to the oven for 20 mins, then cook for a final 10 mins with the lid off to brown the dumplings. Bring the dish to the table in all its glory. Spoon into bowls with cabbage and mash, to serve.

parsley, 1

GOOD TO KNOW folate • fibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day

2 hrs until the meat is tender.

PER SERVING 800 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 16g • carbs 43g • sugars 10g • fibre 7g • protein 57g • salt 1.9g

next month

Four meals from one chicken

Scale it up D I A N A H E N RY ’ S S TA R I N G R E D I E N T

with fish sauce Use this Southeast Asian staple to add a boost of flavour to everything from roast chicken to greens recipes DIANA HENRY photographs EMMA BOYNS

ike a musical ear-worm, a particular flavour combination sometimes lodges in your brain and plays over and over. Despite coming from Northern Ireland – where I grew up with the salty richness of butter, the floury sweetness of potatoes and the peatiness of whiskey – you’d think I’d been brought up in Hanoi. Perhaps, in another life, I was. The imagined flavours that chase each other round my head are the hot, sour, salty, and sweet strains of chilli, lime, fish sauce and palm sugar, the tastes of Southeast Asia. Fish sauce is the ingredient that makes Southeast Asian food what it is, the salty, amber river that runs through it. In Thailand it’s nam pla, in Vietnam nuoc mam, in Myanmar ngan bya yay. I first tasted fish sauce in a living room in London’s Maida Vale in 1986. There were no supper clubs back then, but a neat middle-aged Vietnamese lady had turned her home into a restaurant. The rice paper rolls looked as if they’d been made by an artist, little furls of colour wrapped in damp translucence. I dipped one in nuoc cham, a Vietnamese dipping sauce based on fish sauce. Salt, heat and sugar – fireworks. I was immediately hooked. In its purest form, fish sauce is made by pressing layers of anchovies and salt. The liquid that seeps out is drained off and added back to the tank for full fermentation to begin, a process that takes nine months to a year. The resulting sauce isn’t just fishy and salty, it’s also funky and deeply umami.

Some think that Thai fish sauce is a little rough, and very salty (in the words of cookbook author Andrea Nguyen, it’s ‘for the lusty highs and lows of Thai food, not the rolling hills and valleys of Viet food’). Fish sauce die-hards tend to prefer the Vietnamese stuff, specifically that which is made on the island of Phú Quoc (and even more specifically, the Red Boat brand). Some cooks use fish sauce in other cuisines, and you can’t argue with the wisdom of this. After all, garum, the fish sauce (made either with whole fish or fish guts) of ancient Rome, was used as a seasoning. Why shouldn’t you use it to deepen your pot of ragu? The production of fish sauce in the Mediterranean stopped when salt became expensive. In his book Salt: A World History, Mark Kurlansky suggests that Asian fish sauce isn’t connected to garum. Rather, he theorises that both sauces developed simultaneously, although we don’t know for certain. I do know, however, that using fish sauce in food pulls flavours together and gives it an umami hit. It deepens and brightens. There are evenings, if my fish sauce craving is high, when I set about supper with all the excitement of a bear after a trout. I stir-fry prawns with chilli, lime, ginger and fish sauce, and throw a little sugar in at the end. Sometimes I don’t even cook: I just make nuoc cham and dip raw salmon and shavings of pineapple into it. Really, I’ve got it bad.

Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Every month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. @dianahenryfood

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weekend

Prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew, p110

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 109

Prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew I wish I had a pound for every time I’ve cooked this. Despite the long ingredients list, it is such an easy supper. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

1 medium onion 2 tbsp groundnut oil 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 red chillis, deseeded and chopped 3cm cube fresh ginger, grated to a purée 400ml coconut cream 750ml chicken or fish stock 350g pumpkin, peeled and cut into 3cm cubes (prepared weight) 150g waxy baby potatoes, halved or quartered

20g fresh coriander, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped 400g large raw prawns, shelled 300g baby spinach leaves 1-2 limes, juiced 1 /2 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 tbsp fish sauce, plus extra for seasoning To serve red chilli, thinly silced lime wedges

1 Halve the onion, then cut each half into crescent moon-shaped wedges about 2cm thick at the thickest part. Heat the oil in a casserole dish. Cook the onion until soft and pale gold, then add the garlic, chillis and ginger, and cook for 2 mins more. Stir in the coconut cream, stock and some seasoning. Heat carefully, but don’t let it boil. 2 Add the pumpkin and potato, season again, then add the coriander stalks. Simmer until the pumpkin and potatoes are tender. Use a wooden spoon to squash some of the pumpkin if you want to to thicken the stew a little, but don’t break it down too much (you don’t want a purée). 3 Add the prawns and spinach. Cook gently until the prawns are opaque, about 3 mins. Stir in the lime juice, sugar and fish sauce. Taste the stew, then adjust the flavour with more lime or fish sauce as needed. Roughly chop the coriander leaves, then stir them through. Top each portion of the stew with some sliced red chilli, and serve with lime wedges on the side. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 613 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 31g • carbs 21g • sugars 14g • fibre 4g • protein 36g • salt 2.0g

This is a big favourite in my house. It may seem like a hassle to baste and cover the bird with foil but it’s well worth it – the marinade won’t burn and you’ll end up with a gorgeous chicken, dark and shiny as a conker. Spatchcocking is easy and really cuts down the length of cooking time a large chicken needs. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 3 hrs marinating COOK 1 hour 10 mins EASY

1.9kg chicken 1 lemongrass stalk 6 garlic cloves, grated to a purée 5cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated to a purée 2 red chillis, halved, deseeded and chopped

50ml fish sauce 3 tbsp soy sauce 6 tbsp honey 3 tbsp groundnut oil 1 lime, juiced cooked rice and stir-fried green veg, to serve

1 To spatchcock the chicken, put the bird on the worktop, breast-side down, with the legs pointing towards you. Using good kitchen scissors, cut through the flesh and bone along both sides of the backbone (and either side of the parson’s nose). Remove the backbone and keep it for stock (freeze until you’ve gathered a few). Turn over the chicken, then flatten it by pressing hard on the breastbone with the heel of your hand – you’ll feel it breaking and flattening under your hand. Remove any big globules of fat and neaten any ragged bits of skin. 2 To make the marinade, remove and discard the coarse outer layer of leaves and the green tips from the lemongrass. Chop the pale inner core finely, then pound using a pestle and mortar with the garlic, ginger and chillis. Transfer to a bowl, then add the rest of the ingredients. Put the chicken in a dish that will fit in your fridge. Gently loosen the skin on the breast, then work your your fingers in between the skin and the flesh, including the legs. Spoon some of the marinade under the skin, then spread more marinade all over the chicken (use no more than half the marinade in total at this point). Cover the bird with cling film and chill in the fridge for a few hours, or overnight. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the chicken, breast-side up, in a roasting-tin in which it fits snugly (if there’s too much room around the bird, the marinade will burn). Scrape all the marinade from the dish over the bird. Season all over, then roast for 1 hr 10 mins. Baste after 15 mins with all the juices from the tin. Baste again after 30 mins, then cover with foil (if the chicken isn’t very brown, don’t cover with foil yet – keep checking until it is brown, then cover). After 50 mins, spoon over the remaining marinade, cover with foil again and cook for the final 20 mins. 4 To check that the chicken is cooked through, pierce the bird between the leg and the rest of the body – the juices should be clear. Cut into portions, then serve with rice and stir-fried green veg. PER SERVING 497 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 7g • carbs 17g • sugars 16g • fibre none • protein 46g • salt 3.0g

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Shoot director CHERRY FERMOR | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

Roast spatchcock chicken with lemongrass, honey & fish sauce

weekend

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 111

weekend

Stir-fried greens with fish sauce Fresh and salty-sweet. I often eat just these greens with plain rice. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

½ head Savoy cabbage 125g purple sprouting or Tenderstem broccoli 2 tbsp groundnut oil 4-6 garlic cloves, finely sliced 75g baby spinach 2 tbsp fish sauce, plus extra for seasoning 1 tsp caster sugar

1 Remove any discoloured or coarse leaves from the cabbage, then halve it. Remove the hard central ribs and discard them, then shred the leaves. If using purple sprouting broccoli, halve any thicker stems lengthways. 2 Heat the oil in a wok. Stir-fry the broccoli for 1 min, then add the garlic and cabbage and cook until the garlic is a pale gold colour. Quickly add the spinach and fish sauce and turn the veg over – the moisture should come out of the spinach and boil off quickly. Add the sugar and toss the vegetables again, then add a little more fish sauce, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 102 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 1.6g

112 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

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To request a brochure, call 01283 742398 To book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 113

Chinese JOHN TORODE’S

takeaway John Torode takes one of our most popular online recipes and gives it a takeaway makeover

Sweet & sour pork

This recipe can easily be adapted to use chicken or prawns in place of the pork. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

1 pork fillet (about 500g), trimmed and cut into 3cm chunks sunflower or vegetable oil, for deep-frying cooked rice or noodles, to serve For the marinade 1 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp shoaxing rice wine or dry sherry 1 garlic clove, grated thumb-sized piece ginger, grated For the coating 50g cornflour 1 /2 tsp salt 1 tsp ground white pepper 2 tsp celery salt 2 tsp caster sugar

For the sauce 1 tbsp sunflower oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped thumb-sized piece ginger, chopped 1 green or red pepper, roughly chopped 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 4 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tsp sesame oil 2 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp soft brown sugar 300g can pineapple chunks 1 tbsp sesame seeds For the batter 100g rice flour 100g cornflour 1 tsp baking powder

BBC Good Food contributing editor John Torode will be back as a judge on the new series of MasterChef, which will air on BBC One next spring. @JohnTorode1

114 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 Mix the pork with the marinade ingredients and leave to sit for at least 15 mins, or chill for a few hours. In a separate bowl, mix all the coating ingredients. Drain any excess liquid off the pork and toss the pork in the seasoned coating. Can be done 1 hr ahead. 2 To make the sauce, heat the oil in a shallow saucepan and gently fry the garlic, ginger and peppers until just starting to soften. Now drop in all the rest of the ingredients except the sesame seeds. Bring everything to the boil and cook for a few mins until thickened, then take off the heat. To make the batter, whisk the flours and baking powder together with 200ml water to a smooth paste. 3 Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer, large saucepan or a wok to 180C or until a drop of batter sizzles and browns in 20 secs. Dip the marinated pork in the in the batter mix (do it in two or three batches) and let any excess drip off. Fry the pork in batches, for about 5-6 mins or until golden. Remove and drain on kitchen paper until all the batches are done. Make sure you bring the oil back to the correct temperature between each batch. Coat the crispy pork in the sauce, then sprinkle over the sesame seeds, coriander and serve with rice or noodles. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 650 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 4g • carbs 75g • sugars 20g • fibre 3g • protein 31g • salt 3.7g

If you’ve tried our sweet & sour pork stir fry (bbcgoodfood. com/sweet-and-sour-stirfry), why not try John’s version and let us know which you prefer. Drop us a line at hello@ bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com. Find more of John’s recipes on our website.

Shoot director ELIZABETH GALBRAITH | Food stylist JENNIFER JOYCE | Stylist VICTORIA ALLEN

photograph DAVID MUNNS

weekend

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 115

A taste of S TA R C H E F S

Sri Lanka This vibrant cuisine took off in the UK last year, with restaurants serving fragrant curries, fiery sambols and crisp hoppers. Try these beautiful dishes at home 116 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

weekend Chef Emily Dobbs has run Sri Lankan hoppers street food stall, Weligama, in London since 2015. She now cooks at various supper clubs – see weligama.co.uk for dates. @weligama_ldn

‘I

n the late 1980s, my uncle went on holiday to Sri Lanka, and never came back. He lives on Taprobane Island – a strip of jungle perched on rocks with an old white house – off Weligama Bay. My family and I first went to visit him 15 years ago when Sri Lanka was in the midst of civil war. We seemed to be the only tourists and you weren’t allowed to travel north of Colombo. I remember that smack of hot, humid air with the strong, musty scent of the tropics when I first stepped off the plane. I still look forward to that moment when I visit now. I instantly feel at home in Sri Lanka.’

Egg curry

Frying the eggs gives a tofu-like exterior. Serve these with fresh spring hoppers as I have, or rice. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

8 medium free-range eggs 3 tsp turmeric 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds handful of curry leaves 1 onion, finely chopped 2 small green chillies, finely chopped

1 large garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp curry powder 1 cinnamon stick 4 anchovies, chopped 200ml coconut milk whole nutmeg, grated string hoppers or cooked rice, to serve

Mussels, lime & chilli butter in arrack

Buy your mussels live and shut tight from your local fishmonger. Store before use in a cool, damp place. This way you can clean them, by removing the barnacles and beards, in a self-contained, no-mess cool box. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

1 Boil the eggs for 5 mins, then carefully remove from the water with a slotted spoon and plunge into cold water. Once cool enough to handle, carefully peel. Pat dry, prick with a fork and roll in 2 tsp of the turmeric. 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a frying pan and fry the eggs in batches a couple of mins at a time, turning over with a spoon until the outside has formed a crispy exterior and they are lightly golden all over. Lift out with a slotted spoon and set aside. 3 In a small pan, heat the remaining oil until just smoking, then add the mustard seeds swiftly followed by the cumin seeds and curry leaves. Add the onion, green chillies, garlic and 1 tsp sea salt. Fry for a couple of mins, then add the chilli powder, remaining turmeric, curry powder, cinnamon and anchovies. Add the coconut milk with 100ml water and simmer for 5 mins until the sauce has reduced. Season to taste. 4 Slice the eggs in half, or keep whole if you prefer, and season each with a little salt and black pepper, then add to the sauce. Simmer for a couple of mins, then finish with a little grated nutmeg before removing from the pan and serving with the string hoppers, or rice.

1kg mussels 2 tbsp coconut oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1 large shallot, peeled and thinly sliced 1 small pack coriander, stalks only, finely chopped handful of curry leaves

GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING 341 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 11g • carbs 5g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 2.1g

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 309 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 7g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 13g • salt 0.9g

250ml arrack or spiced rum 1 tbsp kithul treacle or maple syrup ½ tsp turmeric 1 tbsp butter mixed with ½ tsp chili flakes 1 lime, juiced pinch of sea salt handful of coriander leaves roti, to serve

1 Rinse the mussels under cold water, removing the beards by pulling them sharply towards you. Discard the shells that don’t close when tapped with a knife. 2 Heat the coconut oil in a large pan (with a lid). Once hot, add the garlic, shallot, coriander stalks and curry leaves, and sizzle for a couple of mins. Add the mussels, give the pan a good shake and cook for 1 min. Add the arrack, treacle and turmeric, then immediately cover the pan with a lid and let it steam. 3 Cook for 5 mins, giving the pan a good shake. Check the mussels have opened and add the chilli butter, lime juice and salt and shake the pan. Finish with the chopped coriander. Discard any shells that haven’t opened. Serve the mussels with roti.

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 117

weekend

Cinnamon meringue, roast bananas & saffron cream

A Sri Lankan-style pavlova. The meringue gives texture rather than sweetness as it is slightly salty, tastes like cinnamon toast and melts on your tongue. SERVES 12 PREP 25 mins COOK 2 hrs 30 mins MORE EFFORT V

For the cinnamon meringues 5 egg whites 1 tsp sea salt 150g caster sugar 130g dark brown soft sugar or jaggery 1 tsp ground cinnamon For the saffron cream 250ml double cream 200ml coconut cream 50g icing sugar

Dhal

Dhal is a very popular breakfast dish in Sri Lanka – a bit like having a bowl of porridge. Tempering (heating spices in oil), gives a flavour booster at the end. Pandan leaves, or rampe, give off a warm citrus perfume and are used in sweet and savoury dishes. You can buy pandan in Southeast Asian shops or online at theasiancookshop.co.uk. Serves 4-6 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

350g red split lentils 2 green chillies 5cm pandan (optional) ½ whole bulb garlic, cut horizontally with skin on 1 tsp turmeric 1 cinnamon stick, broken in half 1 shallot, peeled 400ml coconut milk

2 tsp sea salt 175g spinach, washed 1 tsp chilli powder For the temper 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 tsp mustard seeds handful of curry leaves To serve (optional) rotis, yogurt and crispy onions

1 Soak the lentils in cold water while you get together the rest of your ingredients. 2 Drain the lentils and transfer to a large pan with 800ml water, the whole green chillies, pandan, garlic, turmeric, cinnamon and shallot. Turn on the heat and, once boiling, simmer over a low heat, uncovered, for 10 mins. Add the coconut milk and cook for 15 mins or until the lentils are soft, then add the salt (you add it at the end as doing so beforehand prevents the lentils from cooking). 3 Once the lentils are cooked, turn off the heat and fish out the pandan, garlic and shallot with tongs and discard. Add the spinach and chilli powder to the lentils. 4 To make the temper, heat the oil in a small pan. Once it starts to smoke add the mustard seeds, quickly followed by the curry leaves. Pour into the dhal and serve with toppings and sides of your choice. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • fibre • iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 341 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 11g • carbs 34g • sugars 3g • fibre 5g protein 16g • salt 1.8g

118 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

1 lime, zested 1 tsp turmeric pinch of saffron strands For the roast bananas 1 ½ tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp sea salt 1 ½ tbsp coconut oil, heated and cooled 6 medium bananas, peeled gold leaf (optional if you want to pimp it up), to serve

1 First, make the meringue. Heat oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Whisk the egg whites and salt to form soft peaks. Whisk in the sugars and cinnamon gradually, a spoonful at a time, and continue whisking until stiff glossy peaks are formed. Spread the meringue mixture evenly onto a greased and lined baking tray and cook for about 2 hrs 10 mins or until the meringue is beginning to darken and crisp. Remove and check the undersides are hard to the touch. If not, then continue cooking for another 5-10 mins. 2 Meanwhile, make the saffron cream. Whip the double cream and coconut cream into soft peaks. Sift in the icing sugar and combine with the lime zest, turmeric and saffron strands. Set aside in the fridge. 3 For the roast bananas, line a baking tray with baking parchment and spread the brown sugar, salt and coconut oil evenly across it. Cut the bananas into long, thin, diagonal strips and place on the lined tray. This can sit while you wait for your meringue to finish. 4 Once your meringue is ready, turn up the heat to 230C/210C fan/gas 8 and roast the bananas for 20 mins until caramelised. Leave to cool completely. To serve, layer the meringue with the saffron cream and roast bananas, then sprinkle over a bit of gold leaf, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 342 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 13g • carbs 40g • sugars 39g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.9g

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E AT O U T O R E AT I N

WRECKFISH Imaginative, high quality, satisfying food is at the core of all Gary Usher’s restaurants. Wreckfish Bistro, in Liverpool, is the newest. Here he shares some recipes from the menu to try at home recipes GARY USHER words CHRISTINE HAYES photographs DAN BURNS

ary Usher, chef/owner of Wreckfish Bistro, in Liverpool, first hit our radar when we spotted his irreverent Twitter feed, detailing the highs and lows of running his first restaurant, Sticky Walnut in Chester. He’s since opened three more restaurants across the North West and remains firmly hands-on in the kitchen, producing the kind of satisfying, seasonal food we could eat every day. A short menu of modern classics includes rump steak with truffle macaroni for two, imaginative veggie options like roast turnip cake and excellent puddings such as salted caramel tart, as well as the magnificent marmalade sponge featured here (p123). The whole team shares Gary’s high standards – you can expect relaxed, deft service and a succinct wine list. wreckfish.co @wreckfish_bistro

Adonis fizz Clam risotto Pork chop with chorizo Marmalade sponge

120 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Photographs DAN BURNS, NATURAL SELECTION DESIGN

weekend

Adonis fizz

SERVES 1 Pour 40ml Martini Rosso, 40ml Tio Pepe fino sherry, and 2 dashes orange bitters into a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake well. Strain into a glass and top with prosecco.

Clam risotto, p122

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 121

Clam risotto

This is the ideal way to start a meal with friends as all the elements can be prepared ahead and then cooked just before serving. This risotto is packed full of flavour, the lardo acts as a lovely salty seasoning, and the chives and olive oil give the dish a punchy finish. If you’re struggling to find clams, then mussels could be used instead, and a good quality fatty cured ham could be used instead of lardo. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins MORE EFFORT

500g clams 175ml white wine 2 banana shallots, finely diced 1 garlic clove, crushed 170g arborio rice 500ml vegetable or fish stock (see tip, below) 3 tbsp olive oil

To finish small bunch of chives, finely chopped large knob of butter (40g) 8 shavings of lardo (a cured pork fat, ask your butcher) good-quality olive oil

1 Start by rinsing the clams under cold running water for 5 mins, then drain. Set up a colander over a large bowl and set aside. Put a lidded saucepan, large enough to fit triple the amount of clams you have, on a high heat until the base just begins to smoke. Being very careful to keep your hands away from the steam, quickly tip the wine and clams into the pan and put the lid on top. The clams will open up, and as soon as you can see that all of them have (a gentle shake of the pan will help to distribute the heat) remove the pan from the heat and pour the clams into colander, reserving all the cooking juices for later. Leave the clams to steam a little and cool. 2 Once cool enough to handle, remove the flesh from the clam shells using your hands. Discard the shells and put all the clam meat in a bowl – you could keep 12 clams still in their shells for presentation, if you like. 3 Put a large saucepan on a medium heat and pour in the oil. Quickly add the shallot and garlic and sweat for 8-10 mins until soft and slightly translucent, but don’t let it brown. Put another pan on a medium heat and pour in the stock. Add the rice to the shallot and garlic, and continue to fry on a medium heat for around 1-2 mins. 4 Pour the reserved clam cooking liquid into the rice and turn up the heat. Constantly stir the rice until almost all the liquid in the pan has evaporated. Add the hot stock, a ladleful at a time, and keep stirring. Once all the stock is used and the rice is cooked, turn off the heat. 5 Tip in the clam meat, butter and chives and beat together. Season to taste. If you have kept some clams in their shells, grill them to warm through slightly. Divide the risotto between four bowls, place three warmed clams on top of each and lay the lardo over the clams. Generously drizzle over some olive oil and serve. GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING 398 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 6g • carbs 39g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 12g • salt 1.5g

tip

If using a packet stock, be careful with adding salt, as when it reduces, the salt becomes more apparent so the risotto may taste too salty.

122 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

weekend

Pork chop with chorizo

Blitz on high speed until smooth, then pour back into the pan and leave at room temperature until needed. 2 Heat the grill to a medium-high heat and put a large pan of highly salted water on the hob to boil. Season the pork chops. Finely chop the shallot, chilli and garlic together (a pestle and mortar would work perfectly but failing that, just chop as fine as you possibly can until it’s almost a paste), add the lemon juice, then set aside. 3 Brush both sides of the chops with vegetable oil and put them on a baking sheet. Slide under the grill and give them 2 mins on each side, then turn the heat down to medium low and continue cooking for 2 mins on each side. Ideally you will see a little caramelisation in the first 4 mins of cooking, and the final 4 mins are to bring the core temperature up without burning the fat and keeping the chop juicy. Put a frying pan on the hob on a low heat. 4 Once the pork is ready, turn off the grill and leave to rest. Cook the green beans in boiling water for 3 mins. Heat a little oil in the frying pan, then add the shallot, garlic and chilli paste and fry lightly for 3 mins. Meanwhile, put the chorizo purée in a pan on a low heat and stir gently to warm through (be careful it doesn’t get too hot otherwise it will split). Drain the beans and toss in the frying pan with a little sea salt. 5 To serve, split the green beans between four plates then rest the chop on top. Add a dollop of the purée to the side of the plate to serve.

This dish is so simple but a couple of things make it special. The chorizo purée is smoky and rich and a perfect accompaniment to the chop. Serve any leftover purée with bread – it will keep for a couple of days in the fridge. Spend a little bit of money on your pork, we use a Middle White breed at the restaurant, so go to a good quality butcher as it will make all the difference to the end result. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY

200g double cream 200g raw cooking chorizo, skinned and chopped 4 pork chops, bone in and French trimmed (about 200g each) 1 banana shallot

1 red chilli 1 garlic clove 1 /2 lemon vegetable oil 200g fine green beans, trimmed

1 Pour the cream into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then add the chorizo and bring back up to the boil. Remove from the heat and pour into a food processor.

PER SERVING 580 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 18g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 42g • salt 1.1g

Steamed marmalade sponge

This sponge is brilliantly light and absolutely perfect for soaking up lashings of orange syrup. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or a generous dollop of whipped cream. SERVES 4-6 PREP 30 mins COOK 2-3 hrs A CHALLENGE V

120g butter, plus extra for the tin 100g golden syrup 85g caster sugar 2 eggs, beaten 120g self-raising flour, sifted

/2 tsp bicarbonate soda 65ml milk 1 lemon, zested For the orange syrup 1 Seville orange 170g granulated sugar 1

1 First, make the syrup. Slice the orange in half and squeeze out every last bit of juice into a small saucepan, and remove any pips. Using a spoon, scrape all the remaining pith from the inside of the orange and discard. Take the remaining peel and shred into small strips with a knife (think thick-cut marmalade size). Add this to the juice, tip in the sugar, top up with 285ml water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Place the pan on a low heat and leave to simmer for 1-2 hrs or until the peel has softened (if the peel is still hard but the liquid in the pan is getting low, add more water and reduce back down again). Set aside and leave to cool to room temperature. 2 Heat oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4 and put a roasting tin, filled around 4cm high with water, in to warm. The tray should be large enough to

fit a 1lb non-stick loaf tin inside. Brush the loaf tin with a little butter, then line with a strip of baking parchment that runs along the bottom, leaving a slight overhang at each end. 3 Put a paddle attachment in your food processor and put 50g of the golden syrup, the butter and sugar in the bowl. Beat on a high speed for around 5 mins until the paste is very light and creamy. Now turn the speed down on the mixer to low. Slowly add the beaten egg until it is all incorporated, then add the flour and bicarb bit by bit until the mixture is bound together. Fold the milk and lemon zest into the mixture. Turn up the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. 4 Pour the rest of the golden syrup into the base of the tin, then spoon over the sponge mixture. Cling film the top of the tin very tightly, then repeat with two layers of foil. Place the tin in the tray of water in the oven and bake for 45 mins-1 hr. Check after 45 mins by carefully peeling back the foil, the sponge will have risen and should have a slight spring to it when touched. Once the sponge is ready, leave to cool for 5 mins in the tray. 5 To flip the sponge, remove the foil and cling film from the tin and place a large plate on top. Hold the plate and tin in both hands and flip over. If the sponge doesn’t release straight away, give it a little bit of encouragement with the overhang of parchment at either end. Warm the orange syrup slightly and spoon over the sponge a little at a time, allowing it to soak into it and drizzle down the sides. Serve, sliced, with cream or ice cream, and extra syrup. PER SERVING (6) 475 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 11g • carbs 71g • sugars 56g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 1.0g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 123

Antonio GOOD FOOD’S

Memories of

The death in November of Antonio Carluccio, the Godfather of Italian cooking, brought back fond memories for Good Food’s Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery, who had the privilege of cooking with the chef and restaurateur many times

124 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Recipe photograph LISA LINDER | Food stylist JENNY WHITE | Stylist GEORGIA LACEY

he last time I saw Antonio Carluccio was at the Harrogate BBC Good Food Show last May (when the picture, right, was taken). He was on fine form for a man of 80, affably cooking orecchiette con broccoli e cozze (pasta with broccoli and mussels) and piatto di vegetali con salsa olandese (bouquet of vegetables with hollandaise sauce) in front of a packed theatre, and holding court with profound answers during the Q&A sessions. But what stays with me most is seeing him backstage, leaning on his hand-whittled walking stick, chuckling like Sid James and entertaining us all with jokes that everyone would ask him to re-tell. I grew up in the 80s with parents who loved the BBC’s Food and Drink show – to me, Antonio was Italian food. His book on mushrooms, A Passion for Mushrooms, was bought for me by a well-meaning friend of the family when I went to catering college, and I remember my chirpy college pal Jamie (yes, that Jamie!) being very excited about going to work for the master of pasta. When I first met Antonio, he’d just opened an eponymous deli, and was conducting a risotto masterclass. He was a lot more vigorous with risotto than I’d been taught to be – shaking the pan and stirring roughly while he added ladlesful of fast-boiling brodo. I’ll never forget the taste of it. Risotto and wild mushrooms all of a sudden made sense. He ignited my love for both, and sent me away with a special forager’s mushroom knife, which I still use today.

I’ve since had the pleasure of working with this great man over the years, and it was on the shoot for this veal recipe, right, that I was blown away by the simplicity and brilliance of this dish. He said to me the wise words I now impart to all younger food fans: ‘The best food is MOFMOF – minimum of fuss, maximum of flavour.’ Chef Antonio Carluccio, we’ll miss you.

In 2005, Antonio created a five-course meal for Good Food. These veal cutlets stole the show

Costoletta alla Milanese (Milanese veal cutlets) Dip the chops twice in egg and breadcrumbs to make them extra crisp. If you can’t get veal, flattened chicken breasts or lean slices of pork also work really well. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

6 veal cutlets (about 200g each), bones still attached 4 eggs 10 basil leaves, finely chopped 2 tbsp finely grated parmesan 200g dried breadcrumbs olive oil, for shallow-frying lemon wedges, fried courgettes and spring salad, to serve (optional)

1 Use a tenderiser or rolling pin to flatten the chops, leaving the bone attached, then trim away the fat. Beat the eggs, then mix in the basil, parmesan and some seasoning. Transfer the mixture to a plate or shallow bowl, then spread the breadcrumbs out on another plate. Dip each of the chops in the egg mixture, then immediately roll them in the breadcrumbs to thoroughly coat them. Repeat this process to give the chops a double layer of egg and breadcrumbs. 2 Heat enough oil to cover the base of a large frying pan. Working in batches, fry the chops over a gentle heat for 3-4 mins each side, until the breadcrumbs turn a deep gold (you may need to add more oil to the pan as you go). Serve with a lemon wedge, some fried courgettes and a spring salad, if you like. PER SERVING 425 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 27g • sugars none • fibre none • protein 37g • salt 0.7g

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 125

New city breaks offer for food lovers reader

Explore some of Europe’s top culinary destinations like a local Eat al fresco on Copenhagen’s waterfront

See Madrid’s Plaza de Cibeles fountain and square

Taste Breaks take the hassle out of organising your perfect long weekend, leaving you free to enjoy your time eating fabulous food in some of Europe’s top foodie cities. These affordable breaks are designed to offer a way of getting to the heart of a destination so that those who love to eat can make the most of their short break. We know the key to an authentic experience is knowing a local to share their secrets and suggestions with you. We choose Taste Breaks Local Hosts for their knowledge of these incredible cities

EXCLUSIVE FOR BBC

and local gastronomy, and for their passion to share it with you. You can sit back and relax as we offer your choice of return flights from regional UK airports, three nights’ accommodation with breakfast at a carefully chosen city hotel and private transfers, as well as the expert knowledge of your local host. Taste Breaks are unique, we know you want the freedom to explore the city at your own pace balanced with the support of a local expert. That’s why we include a welcome chat with your host, an orientation tour to help you find your

feet and a food or market tour to discover the city’s culinary secrets. You can then choose whether to spend your weekend break in a world-class museum, dining in the restaurants that only a local would know or sharing a bottle of wine in a pavement cafe. Choose from Copenhagen, Berlin, Lisbon, Madrid, Bologna, Lyon and more. Taste Breaks are brought to you by Riviera Travel.

READERS

All bookings will receive two free tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows* TERMS & CONDITIONS *Standard tickets for the BBC Good Food Show to be dispatched upon holiday departure. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Tours Limited trading as Taste Breaks, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Full payment is required at time of booking. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Tours Limited trading as Taste Breaks.

DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide Limited or Immediate Media.

For more information and to book visit tastebreaks.co.uk/gfd 126 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Expert advice from Barney Desmazery to help you to become a better cook IN THIS MONTH’S TEST KITCHEN

Ingredients in depth: Honey

The ultimate crumble Hundreds of varieties of honey are produced around the world. What’s the difference between the four most widely available? Clear Also called runny honey. In its cheapest form, when no blossom is mentioned, this will be a blend of different honeys. Clear honey is often used in recipes because it has a pourable consistency that is easy to work with and dissolves quickly. Set Sometimes called cloudy or creamed honey, this is the same nutritionally as runny honey but more spreadable. Set honey can also be cooked with, but needs to be heated up gently in a pan or the microwave to melt it. Manuka This set caramel-coloured New Zealand honey has an acquired earthy lavender flavour. It is said to have many antibacterial properties, which makes it the type to use for any honey and lemon cold cures. Acacia This light, clear honey is more expensive than standard clear honey. It has a distinctive very sweet floral flavour, which works well in bakes and hot drinks.

Essential guide to haggis On test: juicers Kitchen tips and tricks Quick fix After preparing garlic, wash and scrub your hands and utensils in cold water, then wash in hot. Washing first in hot water ‘cooks’ the garlic smell onto everything.

Know your garlic prep

Bashed Whole cloves smashed once with the flat of a knife or a heavy object to remove the skin. Slow cook until soft and sweet or use to infuse garlic flavour into other ingredients.

Sliced Best for tomato-based sauces or for making crisp deep-fried garlic for Southeast Asian dishes. Slice garlic as thinly as possible, then brown lightly to remove the raw flavour.

Finely chopped Ideal for when you want to add garlic flavour to a cooked dish without any trace of the actual clove. Watch out when frying finely chopped garlic – it burns very quickly.

Crushed or minced Pushed through a crusher, finely grated or pounded, this is best used raw in dressings, cold sauces or marinades. If cooking with it, the garlic flavour will be very strong.

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APPLE JUICE

TEST KITCHEN

To intensify the apple flavour, we’ve made an apple juice reduction, which forms the base of the filling.

NEXT LEVEL

APPLE CRUMBLE

To give your topping crunch add GrapeNuts or another crunchy malted wheat cereal. If pre-baking, add the cereal after baking the toppings.

PINCH OF SALT A small pinch of salt enhances the sweetness of the crumble topping.

SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus resting COOK 1 hr A LITTLE EFFORT V

photographs PETER CASSIDY

What: A bubbling, buttery crumble is a taste of childhood and one of the easiest and most forgiving puddings to cook. That said, it’s still worth getting right – although any imperfections can easily be hidden with lashings of custard. How: We’ve taken the humble crumble to the next level by giving each element a bit more TLC. Two varieties of apple play to their individual strengths, and we’ve added a touch of toffee and a final flourish of sugar and spice. Crumble topping is the subject of many a food dispute, so we’ve given four options to keep everyone happy.

FROZEN ‘Short’ buttery doughs like shortbread and crumble topping spread less during baking if cooked from frozen.

TWO TYPES OF APPLE Different apples have different flavours and cooking properties. We’ve used the classic, sharp Bramley because it fluffs up beautifully into a purée, and a dessert apple that holds its shape and adds natural sweetness.

You will need For the crumble 225g plain flour 50g custard powder 250g cold butter, diced 100g golden caster sugar 2 tbsp Grape-Nuts cereal (optional) 75g rolled oats (optional) For the apples 50g butter 50g golden caster sugar 100ml cloudy apple juice 1 cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf 4 Bramley apples, peeled, cored and chopped into chunks 4 Cox’s apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 5mm thick rounds For the sugar and spice (optional) ½ tsp each ground cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and allspice 1 tbsp golden caster sugar

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SUGAR AND SPICE We’ve taken all the classic apple pie spices and used them to make an easy added extra that each person can season their own portion with.

To make more of a flapjack-style topping, rub in or scatter over rolled oats before baking so they toast.

test kitchen

CUSTARD POWDER

How to make it

Adding custard powder makes the topping taste a bit like a custard cream, adds a delicate sweetness to the crumble and keeps the buttery mixture crumbly.

TOFFEE APPLE We’ve added complexity to the sweetness of the crumble by caramelising the sugar and browning the butter in the filling – a nod to toffee apples.

LAYERING

DOUBLE BRAMLEY Raw chunks of chopped Bramley apple stirred through the apple purée add texture to the filling.

For a soft, buttery topping, crumble the raw topping over the sliced apple.

Which is your favourite topping? Let us know on Twitter or Instagram (@bbcgoodfood) with the hashtag #bbcgfnextlevel.

BAY LEAF A background flavour of bay works beautifully with orchard fruits. We've used it to infuse the sauce.

3 If you did not pre-bake the crumble, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Arrange the sliced Cox’s apple over the cooked apples in an even layer. Sprinkle your choice of crumble mixture loosely and roughly over the top, then bake for 30-40 mins until the crumble has browned and the filling is bubbling at the sides (the timings will depend on which topping you chose). Leave to rest for 10 mins before serving. While the crumble is baking, make the optional sugar and spice blend by mixing all the ingredients with a small pinch of salt. Serve on the side to sprinkle over. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 684 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 26g • carbs 70g • sugars 38g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 1.0g

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Food stylist JACK SARGESON | Stylist LUIS PERAL

2 For the apples, add the butter, sugar, apple juice, cinnamon and bay to a saucepan. Boil vigorously until you have a sputtering, buttery caramel. Remove the bay and cinnamon, then throw in half the Bramley apples. Cook down to a purée, then remove from the heat and stir through the rest of the Bramley apple chunks until coated. Transfer to a baking dish.

By topping the purée with a layer of sliced apple, the crumble topping has a solid foundation and won’t sink. This also adds extra texture to the finished dish.

MUSTN'T CRUMBLE

1 For the topping, add all the ingredients other than the optional extras to a food processor with a small pinch of salt. Pulse until the mixture resembles large breadcrumbs, but do not overwork (this can also be done by hand). Toss through the extra toppings, if you like, then tip into a container, cover and freeze for at least 1 hr or until needed. Can be made up to one week ahead. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. If you want a dark, crumbly topping, tip the mixture onto a baking sheet and bake for 8-10 mins until golden. Leave to cool and re-crumble, then set aside (keep the oven on).

Shoot directors ELIZABETH GALBRAITH and PETER RÜPSCHL

If you want your topping to be darker and crumblier, pre-bake it before scattering over the sliced apple (this will then need less baking).

ESSENTIAL GUIDE

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO HAGGIS With Burns Night on 25 January, we asked Scottish butcher and haggis maker Andrew Ramsay for the low-down

WHAT EXACTLY IS HAGGIS?

HOW’S IT COOKED?

Historically, when hunters made their kill, they would use up the offal, which went off first, using the cleaned animal’s stomach as a cooking bag. Minced heart, liver and lungs are bulked out with oatmeal, onions, suet, seasoning and spices before cooking. Nowadays natural casings are still used, but synthetic ones are becoming more common (there is no effect on the flavour.)

The traditional method is to simmer the haggis in a pot for hours, but there's a risk that it will burst. You can also bake it in a casserole dish with some water. Although potentially cheating, the easiest and quickest way to cook haggis is in the microwave (but Robbie Burns might turn in his grave). Haggis is usually sold pre-cooked, so the most important thing is to get it piping hot.

2 WHAT DOES IT TASTE LIKE?

Haggis is like a crumbly sausage, with a coarse oaty texture and a warming peppery flavour. It’s most commonly served with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (mashed potato) and washed down with a wee dram of your favourite whisky. Haggis is a versatile ingredient – it can be used to make a stuffing for poultry and game, or fried up for breakfast like crumbled black pudding. 3 IS THERE ONLY ONE TYPE?

Haggis is normally made with sheep offal, but originally any animal would have been used. There are many variations, which include combinations of lamb, pork, beef, venison and slightly more unusual offerings, such as rabbit and hare. Haggis has evolved over the years to suit all tastes and lifestyles, so you can now find organic, gluten-free and even vegan haggis (see bbcgoodfood.com for our vegan haggis recipe).

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5 WHY ON BURNS NIGHT?

In 1801, on the fifth anniversary of the death of Robert Burns, his friends got together to celebrate his life. Burns immortalised haggis in his poem Address to a haggis, so it was the obvious food to serve. This celebration has continued every year on Burns’ birthday, 25 January, ever since. Events are held across the world, where people recite his poetry, sing, drink whisky and – of course – eat haggis.

HOW TO COOK AND SERVE HAGGIS

1 Gently simmer in water for 50 mins per 500g.

2 Bake in a lidded casserole dish with a splash of water at 190C/170C fan/gas 5 for 1 hr.

3 To microwave, cook on medium for 9 mins, turning once.

RAMSAY OF CARLUKE Ramsay of Carluke has been producing pork products and making haggis for 160 years, and have won hundreds of awards and accolades. Its haggis has been cooked by chef Tom Kitchin at 10 Downing Street and for Alain Ducasse at his three Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. ramsayofcarluke.co.uk @ramsayofscotland

4 Once the haggis is very hot, cut a cross in the middle and spoon out the filling.

Illustrations GEORGE BLETSIS | Photographs EMMA BOYNS, GETTY IMAGES

‘Few things are more Scottish than haggis, but it’s still a bit of a mystery to non-Scots and can vary hugely in quality.’

test kitchen

WHAT TO BUY?

JUICERS ON TEST

There are plenty of models on the market, but fundamentally they fall into two categories: fast or slow juicers.

We rate the latest kitchen kit each month. Find more reviews at bbcgoodfood.com

CENTRIFUGAL (FAST) JUICERS Our pick of the best machines for creating delicious healthy juices at home, whether you’re a juicing novice or a seasoned pro

Fruit and veg fed down a tube are chopped with a flat blade and simultaneously spun to separate the juice from the pulp. Fast juicers are the more popular choice, as they are speedy, easy to use and tend to be fairly budget-friendly.

MASTICATING (SLOW) JUICERS

BEST ALL-ROUND – STAR BUY

Smeg slow juicer

£449.95 smeguk.com This classic retro design slow juicer came out on top as it makes smooth juice and allows you to adjust juice thickness. It’s also stylish enough to keep in pride of place on the kitchen counter, but be warned that larger pieces of fruit and veg might need to be chopped a bit to fit through the small ingredients funnel. BEST FOR A SMALL KITCHEN

Panasonic slow juicer £117.34 currys.co.uk

This juicer was by far the most compact of the models that we tested. It was also really easy to clean, as the juicer comes with practical cleaning brushes, which were really handy for removing any chunks caught in the blades.

BEST FOR LOW BUDGET

ElectriQ slow masticating cold press juicer

£59.97 appliancesdirect.co.uk This model has it all, and is noticeably cheaper than similar-quality juicers. It has a novel see-through component, which means you can watch the fruit and veg being juiced. It’s a little harder to clean than some other models, but all in all it’s excellent value for money. BEST FOR A PRO JUICER

4 Omega Mega Mouth slow juicer

£399 ukjuicers.com This wouldn’t look out of place in a professional kitchen. Large and a little tricky to assemble, this is aimed at serious juicers and passed the ‘kale test’ with ease, making the smoothest juice of all the models we tested.

Masticating juicers slowly crush fruit and veg, giving the juice more nutritional value. Slow juicers tend to do a much better job – particularly on hard-toblend leafy greens. It is often claimed that slow juicers yield more juice than fast juicers, so even though they’re more expensive, they could be more cost effective in the long-run.

PULP FRICTION Juicers yield pulp, which people normally throw away. If you don’t want to waste it you can: • Add it to the base mix of healthy muffins or fruit cakes – carrot pulp works well in carrot cakes. • Vegetable pulp makes a great base for veggie burgers. • Stir fruit pulp through granola or porridge. • Add fruit pulp to American pancake mix.

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Discover texture Already started weaning? Help your baby move onto lumps successfully with the nutritious HiPP Organic range eaning is a big milestone for both you and your baby, and with HiPP Organic helping you along the way, it can be a fun and informative journey. With more than 60 years of experience, HiPP Organic creates the only organic jar range in the UK, so your baby is in good hands. Babies can actually recognise tastes and smells from the very first phase of weaning, so that’s why HiPP Organic doesn’t play hide-and-seek with the nutritious ingredients in its meals. Instead, it serves 60 delicious recipes in jars, allowing curious infants to see, smell and taste exactly what they’re eating. Jars are especially handy when babies are ready to move onto lumps and start experimenting with sucking, biting and munching, as they allow for more substantial

SAVOURY MEANS SAVOURY

HiPP Organic doesn’t hide anything from parents, either. It believes savoury recipes should taste savoury. Although babies may prefer sweeter flavours, it’s important to introduce them to a wide range of tastes from the very start, including a variety of vegetables. The HiPP Organic range can help little ones to develop a love of savoury food as well as more adventurous eating habits.

chunks of food. These recipes enable your little one to slowly become accustomed to texture, and encourage them to start developing the vital skill of chewing. Familiarity with textured food can also help calm a baby’s gag reflex. Not only that, but thanks to the new extra-wide opening on HiPP Organic’s jars, it’s even easier to feed your baby direct from the jar with a spoon. The extra space can also help them to master the art of using a spoon and start feeding themselves. Spoon-feeding and introducing lumpy food can be a learning journey, but with HiPP Organic, it doesn’t have to be a bumpy road. The jars are a great way to help babies through each stage of feeding, making the progression through weaning a smooth one.

European tours reader

offer

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Plaza de Espana

Beautiful Lake Como

Classical Spain – Seville, Cordoba & Granada

Lake Como, St Moritz & Bernina Express train

Immortalised in the writings of Ernest Hemingway and loved by Orson Welles, Andalusia is one of the most beautiful and serene corners of Europe. The country is rich in the legacies of the Moors and Romans, with many impressive sites to visit.

On this wonderfully varied tour, you’ll explore Italy’s Lake Como – one of the most beautiful lakes in the world – as well as the amazing Lake Maggiore in Switzerland. Discover the majestic Alps surrounding St Moritz and the medieval town of Bergamo in Italy on a fantastic rail journey on the Bernina Express.

Seven days from only £599pp Selected departures from March to November 2018

Fully escorted price includes: z Visit to medieval Ronda, one of Spain’s most spectacular cities z Guided tour of Granada’s stunning Alhambra, one of Europe’s most romantic palace and fortresses – entrance included z In Seville, sample traditional and delicious tapas z Visit to Cordoba with a guided tour of the Mezquita, probably the most beautiful mosque ever constructed – entrance included z Return flights from a selection of regional airports, plus all hotel transfers z Six nights in three-star superior and four-star accommodation, including all local taxes and breakfast z The services of an experienced tour manager throughout

Eight days half-board from only £849pp Selected departures from April to October 2018

Fully escorted price includes: z Visit chic St Moritz in the heart of the Swiss Alps, with a spectacular Alpine railway journey on the Bernina Express z Lake cruise to town of Bellagio, with a private visit to the enchanting Villa del Balbianello and its inspiring gardens z Spend a day visiting Lake Maggiore z Enjoy a full-day visit and guided tour of Bergamo z Visit Lugano, a stylish and elegant Swiss town by the lake z Return flights from a selection of regional airports, plus all hotel transfers z 7 nights in a choice of well-located four-star accommodation inclusive of all local taxes and breakfast and dinner z Services of an experienced tour manager throughout z Price includes excursions worth £215

EXCLUSIVE FOR BBC READERS All bookings will receive two free tickets to one of the BBC Good Food Shows* TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Standard tickets for the BBC Good Food Show to be dispatched upon holiday departure. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance

available at a supplement. Additional entrance costs may apply. Image used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. DATA PROTECTION BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/ enquiring if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide Limited or Immediate Media Company Limited.

To request a brochure, call 01283 742398 To book, visit gfdriviera.co.uk 134 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

eat like a local Expert advice on the best places to eat and drink on your travels in the UK and abroad. This month, we explore the flourishing tourism scene in Cuba and share our pick of snowy winter breaks, from ski safaris and snowmobiling to saunas and spas

Cuba Budget

A creative food scene has emerged in Cuba since the beautiful island opened up to private investment and US tourism. Get ready to indulge in fresh lobster, perfectly cooked steak and ridiculously good piĂąa coladas without breaking the bank

Photograph BRENDA THARP/AWL IMAGES

words LYDIA SWINSCOE

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 135

ne morning in Havana is all it takes to understand why Cuba is on the rise as a travel hotspot. A first taste of the Cuban capital reveals hot pink vintage cars grumbling along sun-kissed streets and a host of exotic aromas – plus it’s acceptable, if not encouraged, to have a shot of rum in your morning coffee. What’s not to love? Until quite recently, this colourful Caribbean island was far from renowned for its food. But since the economic reforms of 2011, the restaurant scene has flourished, with displays of extreme creativity and skill. Now is the time to visit, to get a taste of both the traditional and the newly emerging era – and the dining options are almost endless. You can spend as little or as much as you want in Cuba, whether you’re exploring the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Trinidad, learning about the revolution in Santa Clara or horse riding through Viñales Valley. You’ll get a feel for the country in two to three weeks, but you could easily spend longer there – Cuba, like its food, is addictive.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

La Guarida, Havana One of the most elegant places to eat in the capital, with some of the best views too. This restaurant and rooftop bar is in an atmospheric old-style building and ticks all the boxes for holiday eating. The beef carpaccio, marlin tacos and lobster risotto will leave you wanting more. Book ahead, as this place gets busy. As La Guarida is one of Havana’s higher-end restaurants, dishes range from £8-20. laguarida.com

La Guarida

A Havana street

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eat like a local Café Laurent, Havana Housed in a 1950s apartment block, this no-sign gem of a restaurant is the perfect place to sip an ice-cold daiquiri while watching the sunset. The food is great too, especially the ropa vieja (Cuba’s national dish of shredded beef), blue marlin in house sauce and lobster stew with sweet potato. Starters from £3, mains range from £7-15 (for lobster). facebook.com/restaurantepaladarcafelaurenthabana Guitarra Mia, Trinidad A great restaurant with a musical theme (check out the guitar-shaped bread!). The fish dishes are enormous and noticeably cheaper than those in the centre of the town – you can expect to pay around £6 for the fish of the day served with rice and vegetables. Jesús Menéndez no 19; 0053 41 99 34 52 Ay Mama, Santa Clara This tiny, pastel-coloured, no-frills joint is the real deal when it comes to hearty, low-cost Cuban food – and there’s not a tourist in sight. A large plate of garlic and lemon prawns, salad, plantain fries and a piña colada will cost around £6, and the rum coffee is a steal at just 50p. facebook.com/aymamacafe Varadero 60, Varadero For solomillo (steak), lobster and the most attentive waiters in the whole of Cuba, this 60s-themed restaurant near Varadero beach is the place to visit. Live piano music plays throughout the evenings, the waiters dish out roses to happy customers and it won’t cost much more than £20 for two courses of really good food. facebook.com/varadero60

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

If you’re staying at a basic hotel or casa particular (local house), ask an upmarket hotel if you can use the pool. Sometimes you pay a small amount, or buy something from the pool bar in return for a lounger for the day. Always tip your waiter. Wages are low in Cuba, and a little extra money can go a long way. Take pens, books and clothes into schools if you want to help out beyond the restaurant table – it will always be appreciated.

ALAMY STOCK PHOTO | Café Laurent photograph YAMIL LAGE/AFP/GETTY

photograph GETTY | Churros street vendor photograph BOAZ ROTTEM/STOCKIMO/

La Guarida and street view photograph SUSANNE KREMER/4CORNERS | Piña colada bar

WHERE TO STAY

Cuban accommodation is mainly based on staying at casa particulares. Rooms generally have a private bathroom or en suite, and are extremely clean. It may be out of your comfort zone but these B&B-style stays really do make a trip to Cuba. Learn about the country from your hosts, and ask for tips on what to do and where to eat. It also means your money goes to the community rather than international hotels. Expect to pay £15-£35 per night; breakfast is often included or offered for a small charge. To find a room, just turn up and knock on any door with the blue casa particular sign. You can also pre-book rooms across Cuba at casaparticular.com.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

CHEAP EATS

Breakfast in your casa particular will set you up for a day of exploring. If it’s not included with your room, it’ll cost no more than £3, for which you’ll be served fresh juice, coffee, a tropical fruit plate (with amazing mangos), eggs, bread, sometimes pancakes and maybe even a grilled cheese sandwich.

If you’re in Havana at the weekend, don’t miss a night out at Fábrica de Arte Cubano. This cultural centre in a converted factory is a hive of creativity, with art exhibitions, live music and wonderful food and drink. Grab a stamp card on the way in, order away and pay for what you’ve had on your way out. Open from 8pm Thursday to Sunday – get there early to avoid the queues. fac.cu

Not a cheap eat, but a must-try drink while in Trinidad – a canchánchara is a speciality cocktail made with rum, honey, lime and ice that is served in a small terracotta cup. To try the real deal, go to Taberna la Canchánchara at 90 Calle Real del Jigüe.

A piña colada bar A churros street vendor

Cigars are famously embedded in Cuban culture, with tobacco being one of the main crops grown in the country. Make like Che Guevara and dip the end in honey before smoking – it’s surprisingly flavoursome.

For a sugar rush, the cakes are a real treat at Havana’s Pastelería Francesa by Parque Central. This is a great location to sit back, relax and engage in some people watching and vintage car spotting.

Direct flights from London to Havana cost from £400 with Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com). Thomas Cook Airways and TUI Airways fly from the UK to Cuban beach resorts. You can also get connecting flights from various US cities. UK nationals need a Tourist Card (visa) to enter Cuba. Your flight provider can sell you one for £15, or apply via the UK’s Cuban Embassy (misiones.minrex.gob.cu/en/united-kingdom). To get around the island by bus, make sure you go to the local station a day or so before your journey to guarantee a seat, or book online (viazul.com). Shared taxis called colectivos will be outside most stations, and will cost roughly the same as the bus. Café Laurent

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six quick trips

HOLIDAYS ON ICE Chefs at high altitude are getting creative with local ingredients. From the Alps to the Arctic wilderness, these sparkling snowy breaks won’t leave foodies cold

FISS, AUSTRIA

Best for… five-star family spa It sounds grand but Schlosshotel is no fussy five-star castle. This former hunting lodge delivers stylish sustenance with home-from-home understatement. Dinners – always five-courses – are served in the piste-view salon, with kids at liberty to dip in and out of à la carte, encouraging adventurous diners. The beautifully-presented buffet, far from a fall-back, has acres of fresh salad and crispy crudités, a hit-list of kids’ favourites, and a gallery of pungent cheeses. À la carte is defined by flavour-forward soups, local game, Alpine meats and lake fish, complimented by seasonal veg and superb Tyrolean wines. Save space for the daily-changing bonanza of puds, from macarons to a gelato bar and two chocolate fountains. Breakfast and lunch buffets are similarly proportioned. Just as well the hotel is ski-in/out, the boot and kit hire room in the basement, waddling distance from guestrooms. A lift delivers to piste level where two ski schools and access to 212,000m of slopes topping out 138 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

at 1,436m mean even in late-season, there’s plenty of snow. Pistes aren’t too challenging, punctuated by parks with ramps and jumps. The hotel’s indoor/outdoor pool and hot tub has a soundproofed water slide curling down the side of the building. The adjoining spa – almost the hotel’s entire ground floor – has adult and family areas catering to both with dedicated saunas, steam rooms and a menu of treatments that almost tops the buffet for choice. How to do it From £175 per person per night, full-board, including kids’ and teens’ clubs, games rooms, cinema, and spa access. Lift pass (six days from £221) and equipment are extra. schlosshotel-fiss.com. The nearest airport is Innsbruck. Sarah Barrell

eat like a local

SOUTH TYROL, ITALY

REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND

Best for… an icy city break Picture the most hauntingly beautiful scenery you can imagine, the low winter light that makes you contemplate life and the sound of fresh snow underfoot, and you’ll have a pretty good idea of what winter in Iceland is like. Reykjavík, the small capital with a population of just over 122,000, is the ideal base for a few days on this aweinspiring island where you can hike glaciers, visit black sand beaches and wander landscapes so fascinating, you’ll feel like you’re in an episode of Game of Thrones (some of which was filmed here). Want to take your trip up a notch? Ice caving and snowmobiling are among the most exciting activities you just shouldn’t miss. Head to Iceland’s Langjökull Glacier (the long glacier) for such adventures with Extreme Iceland (extremeiceland.is). Costing from around £250 per person it’s not cheap, but it is something you’ll likely remember forever. After a day exploring in the cold, the very best way to warm up is with some of Reykjavík’s incredible food. Try Núðluskálin (nudluskalin.com) for tasty vegan noodle soups with a Thai twist or head to Braud & Co (braudogco.is) for sweet treats and the most delicious cinnamon buns that are perfect with a steaming cup of coffee after a day in the snow. Book a table at Apotek Kitchen & Bar (apotekrestaurant.is), housed in the building of an old pharmacy, to indulge in dishes that look as good as they taste. The Icelandic lamb is fabulous and we’ve heard good reviews about the sea trout and

lobster too when they’re in season – just make sure you save room for dessert. You’ll have earned those calories playing outside in the cold all day. Yes: Iceland is expensive but the place, and its food, make it well worth putting all other travel plans on ice. How to do it Stay at the Eyja Guldsmeden Hotel, with doubles from £162 per night. hoteleyja.is Lydia Swinscoe

Best for… food, wine & ski safaris You’d be forgiven for thinking South Tyrol buried its best vintages in the snow, so little are they known in the UK. Including grüner veltliner and schiava, this mountainous, German-speaking corner of Italy (also known as the Alto Adige), has 28 varieties of local wine, 98% of them DOC listed, most of them from small providers so very few are exported. A wine safari around the ritzy Alta Badia ski region (25 March 2018; altabadia.org) is the best way to take a crash course in this unique viticultural word. And you don’t have to have the ski legs for it. Routes between the mountain rifugi (huts, albeit beautifully appointed ones) where tastings are held, are accessible on snow board and snow shoe too – the latter requiring no experience or real instruction. Better still, book your own sommelier to travel hut to hut with (select dates during the season). But you’ll want to keep somewhat sharp for the skiing. There are 1,200km of pistes included in the surrounding Dolomiti Superski Pass area, comprising no less than 12 linked resorts set around the region’s distinctive, panettone-shaped granite mountains. Worked up an appetite? In valley hamlets, gingerbread wooden chalets house Italy’s largest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants (20 at the latest count). Bargain Gourmet Ski Safari weeks offer starry taster dishes served on the mountain at participating rifugi (four courses with matching wines, from £36; altabadia.org). Equally unique-yetaffordable: Maso Runch hof (masorunch.it), a farmhouse just outside San Cassiano, serves local Ladin specialties in its centuries’ old wood-panelled stube (living/dining room): wafer thin schüttelbrot (flat bread) packed with caraway and fennel seeds; barley soups; golden tutres (fried spinach/ricotta turnovers); cajinci (oversized ravioli); and slow roasted meats with polenta. Six courses for £28. How to do it Stay at the Lagació Hotel Mountain Residence in San Cassiano, a plush eco-spa hotel with lavish breakfasts, where double rooms cost £232 per night. lagacio.com. Ski and lift pass extra. For more info, visit suedtirol.info. The nearest airports are Bolzano/Innsbruck. Sarah Barrell JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 139

Serre Chevalier hostel

140 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

ASAF KILGER/ICEHOTEL.COM, TOMMY ALATALO, MATTIAS STYREFORS, ASAF KILGER/ICEHOTEL.COM

SERRE CHEVALIER, FRANCE

Best for… a bargain family ski break It’s no secret: skiing is eye-wateringly expensive. Even more so for foodie families who aren’t prepared to drive the contents of their kitchen onto the Continent to budget self-cater. The answer? Trade hotel for hostel. Special Family Weeks with French hostel association UCPA offer three communal meals daily, après activities and group ski lessons plus clean, basic family rooms at piste-side hostels in some of the Alps’ best resorts. Managed by British outfit Action Outdoors (including coach transfers if you really want to cut costs), almost all guests are UK families, so kids instantly find ski school pals who become meal buddies too. Mass catering rarely produces gourmet goods but hostel food is healthy, simple and varied – great for picky British eaters: a choice of salads and soups to start, followed by classic French meats, fish and hearty, childpleasing pasta dishes, plus French cheeses and ice cream. And with UCPA’s rates, you can even afford to ignore this bargain buffet and eat out at least once. From the Serre Chevalier hostel in the southern Alps, for example, a free ski bus links the string of valley hamlets comprising the resort, where you’ll find affordable eats including atmospheric crêpe huts with extensive, kid-pleasing pancake menus. On the mountain, tucked beside a chapel near the Rochamout blue run, Le Peyra Juana (0033 785 279801) serves hearty Alpine salads and meaty plat-du-jour for around £14 in a cosy wooden cabin setting. For a treat, up valley from Le Monêtier, in Le Casset, Chez Finette (0033 492 244327) offers horse-drawn sleigh rides before good-value family dinners. How to do it A Family Week (in British school holidays) costs from £500 per person including accommodation in family rooms, full board, programmed entertainment, equipment, and ski pass. Coach transfers can be arranged (action-outdoors.co.uk). For more info, visit hautes-alpes. net. The nearest airports are Grenoble and Turin. Sarah Barrell

Photographs JOSEF MALLAUN/TIROL WERBUNG, ISTOCK, GETTY IMAGES, PAUL VILLECOURT/OUTDOOR-REPORTER.COM,

MÉRIBEL, FRANCE

Best for… value luxe chalets Ritzy Courchevel’s more affordable neighbour, pretty little Méribel is making a name for its super smart yet comparatively affordable chalets. In the heart of the Three Valleys, it also has ski access to 600km of some of the Alps’ best pistes. If you want to stay somewhere that, after a hard day’s downhill, award-winning Crémant de Limoux and canapés are waiting for you fireside, followed by a four-course dinner, this is the place for you. Chalet Kalliste (sleeps 10), is one of 11 similarly catered plush pads set across Méribel’s hamlets, where hot tubs, a chauffeur service and personal chef come as standard. Don’t expect standard food. Chefs consult with guests as to preferences but the vibe is refined, not fill-you-up rustic. Delicate portions of slow-cooked ox cheeks and lamb, homemade pickles and chutneys plus feather-light panna cotta were standouts dreamt up by chef Richard Boggie. For classic Savoyard comfort food, Les Crêtes (lescretesmeribel.com), serves exemplary diots (savoy sausage), rich cheesy tartiflette, and reviving glasses of kir in its 2,300m summit cabin (with cable car access for those who don’t want to ski for their supper). Once you’ve exhausted such classic on-piste apres spots as La Folie Douce (lafoliedouce.com), and Le Rond Point ( facebook.com/Rond.Point.Meribel), Méribel is all about at-home entertainment. But should you want to venture out (and make use of that chauffeur) try a porn star martini at L’Abreuvoir (in central Méribel), and the caveman-proportioned cÔte du boeuf at Le Clos Bernard, a postcard-perfect wooden hut in the woods (restaurantleclosbernard.com). How to do it Méribel specialist, Meriski (meriski. co.uk), offers luxury catered chalets from £8,883 per week; split bookings from £888 per person per week, including breakfast, afternoon tea, and children’s high tea (if appropriate), fizz, canapés and a fourcourse dinner with drinks on six nights, and the services of a chalet host, driver and chef. Nearby Moûtiers rail station has direct service to the UK via Paris. Sarah Barrell

eat like a local

Chalet Kalliste

ICEHOTEL, SWEDEN

Le Clos Bernard

Best for… a tasty Arctic adventure Dining at the Icehotel feels akin to a last supper. Exquisite cuts of salmon sashimi presented on a block of ice, Arctic chard dusted with dill powder, and cured fillet of elk with blueberry jelly (prepped by Michelintrained head chef Alexander Meier) – are served in a cosy lodge opposite the imposing arty igloo in which most patrons have paid a packet to stay the night. Go easy on the Dutch (or Swedish) courage. Not only is wine eye-wateringly expensive in Scandinavia, staggering around the hotel’s minus-5C corridors looking for the loo in your long johns in the small hours is not ideal. Upgrade to suites in the new Icehotel 365 (frozen year-round thanks to ecoinsulation), for heated bathrooms accessed via an airlock. Save your alcohol intake for a must-selfie iridescent cocktail served in a glass carved from frozen river water, in the hotel’s much Instagrammed ice bar, before you bed down for the night on an ice-plinth bed, zipped into a four-season sleeping bag. If you survive this, you may be game for a guided wilderness safari. Pilot your skidoo into the Arctic backcountry, try ice fishing, learn some Arctic survival skills and, if you’re lucky, see the Northern Lights, before arriving at Enoks, a selection of smart wooden cabins, including a tidy little sauna, in view of Sweden’s superlative Mount Kebnekaise. Reward your adventurous spirit in its elegant restaurant, crafted out of wood to look like a giant Sami tent, where seared hunks of reindeer steak, delicately smoked salmon carpaccio and cloudberry panna cotta make for the ultimate off-grid dining experience. How to do it Scandinavia Only (scandinaviaonly. co.uk) offers the three-night Icehotel & Overnight Wilderness Experience from £1,980 per person including return flights, transfers, two nights B&B at the Icehotel, one night full-board at Enoks, snowmobile safari and activities. Sarah Barrell A suite at Icehotel 365

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 141

Growing underground

Steven Dring and Richard Ballard use hydroponic technology to grow salad leaves in World War 2 bunkers under central London words CLARE HARGREAVES photograph EMMA BOYNS

GET TO KNOW YOUR GREENS O Pea shoots Grown from the traditional pea seed, these leaves have a mild pea flavour with hints of asparagus, and are great stirfried with ginger and garlic as a side dish.

O Red mustard These micro mustard leaves are beautifully versatile – and just as punchy as the fully grown plant. Toss with olive oil and lemon juice, and serve with a steak.

O Mizuna Widely used in Japan, this microgreen is mildly spicy and a little peppery. Its name literally means water grass. Pair with buttery, garlicky pasta and smoked trout.

O Garlic chives Chives are commonly used in Asian cuisine. You can also sprinkle them on scrambled eggs, or fold them into cream cheese and serve with a warm smoked salmon bagel.

142 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

Grilled mackerel fillets This recipe, which uses Growing Underground’s Asian leaves mix, was created by Michel Roux Jr. ‘The spicy leaves in the Asian mix pair beautifully with the oily fish,’ explains co-founder Steven Dring. SERVES 2 PREP 5mins plus 20 mins marinating COOK 10 mins EASY

2 large mackerel fillets For the marinade 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp honey 1 tsp ground ginger 1 garlic clove, crushed to a purée 1 tbsp sake or dry sherry 1 tsp chilli flakes For the salad 2 tsp sesame oil 1 /2 lime, juiced 1 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp honey 1 tsp sweet chilli sauce 80g pack Asian salad mix (pea shoots, purple radish and coriander)

1 Mix all the marinade ingredients, then pour over the fish. Set aside for 20 mins. 2 For the salad, combine the sesame oil, lime juice, soy, honey and sweet chilli to make a dressing, then toss with the leaves. 3 Grill the marinated mackerel under a hot grill for 5 mins, basting two or three times with any excess marinade, until the flesh begins to flake. Slice and serve with the dressed salad leaves. GOOD TO KNOW folate • omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 610 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 9g • carbs 21g • sugars 20g • fibre 3g • protein 31g • salt 5.5g

& You can listen to the BBC Food and Farming Awards on iPlayer.

Shoot director MARTIN TOPPING | Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

brick dungeon 100 feet below Clapham High Street in London may not be where you’d expect to find a farm growing microgreens and salad leaves. But since 2012, West Country entrepreneurs Steven Dring and Richard Ballard have been using two vast former World War 2 air-raid shelters as the base for their company Growing Underground, London’s first subterranean farm. Growing Underground uses the latest hydroponic systems and LED technology to grow their crops yearround in the pesticide-free, weather-free

environment the tunnels provide. The farm’s central location cuts the need to rely on imported produce and reduces food miles for retailers, which means the leaves are both sustainable and fresh. It’s an achievement that led to their being named the winners of the BBC Radio 4 Farming Today Future Food category at the BBC Food and Farming Awards. Growing Underground’s main crops include pea shoots, purple radish, mustard leaves, red vein sorrel, mizuna, coriander, chives and rocket. Its produce is used by chefs such as José Pizarro and Michel Roux Jr (who helped to establish the company and is still actively involved as an adviser). You can buy the greens in London branches of Whole Foods, Planet Organic and Marks & Spencer, wholesale from New Covent Garden Market, and online from Ocado and Farmdrop. ‘It’s fantastic to be able to produce truly fresh leaves in the heart of the largest city in Britain,’ says Steven. ‘Having the team recognised with the award is an honour and testament to their hard work and dedication. We are all humbled by it.’

eat like a local

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 143

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Get the best from our recipes

Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you

z Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. z Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced fish. z We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. z If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not

including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients

150 bbcgoodfood.com JANUARY 2018

to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a recipe (G), freeze it for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g of fat or less per serving. A recipe is ‘healthy’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert. We include the number of portions

recipes always work of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins or nutrients that it contains. z Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. z Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. z We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.

your recipe

Your recipe We love seeing your recipes – head to bbcgoodfood.com to share your delicious culinary creations with us recipe KATIE SIDDONS photograph EMMA BOYNS

Vegan lemon cake

This vegan lemon cake is light, fluffy and zingy. It also works well if you replace the flour and baking powder with gluten-free alternatives. SERVES 12 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins plus cooling EASY V G

100ml vegetable oil, plus extra for the tin 275g self-raising flour 200g golden caster sugar 1 tsp baking powder 1 lemon, zested, 1/2 juiced

For the icing 150g icing sugar 1 /2 lemon, juiced

1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Oil a 1lb loaf tin and line it with baking parchment. Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder and lemon zest in a bowl. Add the oil, lemon juice and 170ml cold water, then mix until smooth. 2 Pour the mixture into the tin. Bake for 30 mins or until a skewer comes out clean. Cool in the tin for 10 mins, then remove and transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool fully. 3 For the icing, sieve the icing sugar into a bowl. Mix in just enough lemon juice to make an icing thick enough to pour over the loaf (if you make the icing too thin, it will just run off the cake). GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 276 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 47g • sugars 29g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.3g

Food stylist ELENA SILCOCK | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Got a recipe to share? Visit bbcgoodfood.com and create an account in My Good Food – your recipe could be featured in a future issue

My Good Food member Katie Siddons ‘Lemon drizzle cake is a firm favourite in our family. As we have various dietary requirements we stopped making it, since most recipes include eggs. But my desire to have it again got so strong I decided to make up my own dairy-free recipe.’

JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 151

yourfeedback We love to hear from you. Get in touch at the addresses below, or find us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood

Write to BBC Good Food, BBC Worldwide, Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FA Email us at hello@bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com Find us on social media @bbcgoodfood and tag us #bbcgoodfood

star letter Although I agree with some of the sentiment of Joanna Blythman’s article ‘Home delivery? Don’t be so lazy!’ (Nov), I think she was a bit too strident in her assumption that those who order takeaway from gourmet restaurants always do so because they’re lazy. In October, I should have been celebrating my 25th wedding anniversary in Vienna, but instead I was waiting on knee surgery, quite incapacitated. So, for a week, it was all about takeaways, some from the best restaurants in Newry. It wasn’t Vienna, but at least the food was superb! Fiona Colllins, Newry, Northern Ireland

You’ve been posting our recipes… #bbcgoodfood

Fiona wins three bottles of Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV Champagne (£49.99, winerack.co.uk), the ideal prize to celebrate next month’s Valentine’s Day celebrations (and her 25th wedding anniversary!). This vivid, vibrant rosé champagne has vivid aromas of red summer fruit, and notes of enticing wild strawberry and raspberry.

Thank you for the fantastic easy chocolate cake recipe (Oct). I made it (and the kids decorated it) for my husband’s 40th, and then made a triplelayer version for my daughter’s 5th birthday (decorated with fondant icing, Trolls style). The recipe was very easy to follow, and the cake was light and delicious. Sarah Holland, Guernsey

This magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and produced on its behalf by Immediate Media Co. London Limited. © Immediate Media Company London Limited, 2018. BBC Worldwide’s profits are returned to the BBC for the benefit of the licence-fee payer. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Wyndeham Group. The text paper for BBC Good Food is printed on 65gsm Galerie Brite and the cover is printed on 170gsm Galerie Art, produced by Sappi Paper. It is elementally

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EATS OUT Each month, we ask a fan of Good Food to recommend a great place to eat or shop in their area. This month, Charlotte Smith chooses Victor’s in Hale, Cheshire. victorshale.co.uk

@mrshallam54 Check out Sarah’s version of our pineapple & rum cake (Nov). It looks almost too good to cut into!

@olivanderswand Oliver made Rosie Birkett’s hearty squash, sage & sourdough bake (Oct) as part of a winter feast.

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This international fusion restaurant is great for a special occasion. The interior is covered in plants, creating a cool atmosphere – think trendy treehouse chic. Highlights include the incredibly fresh and varied sushi plate and the steak, which comes with a divine beurre noisette hollandaise. Know somewhere good in your area? A restaurant, a market, a great deli? Tell us about what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout.

RECIPE KEY

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Vegetarian

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Low cal

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Low fat

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Gluten free

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Suitable for freezing

Meat & game Beef & Guinness stew with bacon dumplings 107 Chorizo & pea risotto 40 Costoletta alla Milanese (Milanese veal cutlets) 125 Duck ragu with pappardelle & swede 31 Lamb biryani 105 Lamb & squash biryani with cucumber raita 88 Pork chop with chorizo 123 Sausage & butter bean simmer-and-serve 106 Steaks with goulash sauce & sweet potato fries 91 Sweet & sour pork 114

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make it snap it post it

we'll share the best on Twitter and Instagram @bbcgoodfood #bbcgoodfood

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26 Breakfasts & brunches

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Butternut & cinnamon oats 80 Herb omelette with fried tomatoes 81 Walnut & almond muesli with apple 80 Warming chocolate & banana porridge 80

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Poultry 5-a-day chicken with kale & pistachio pesto 24 Garlic chicken parcels 40 Roast chicken with oranges, chicory & spelt 98 Roast spatchcock chicken with lemongrass, honey & fish sauce 110 Spicy peanut chicken pies 89

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Fish

Baked cod with goat’s cheese & thyme 84 Clam risotto 122 Egg curry 117 Grilled mackerel fillets 142 Hake with paprika oil potatoes 99 Mussels, lime & chilli butter in arrack 117 Mussels with chorizo, beans & cavolo nero 97 New England clam chowder 30 Paella in the oven 42 Prawn, pumpkin & coconut stew 110 Smoked mackerel & leek hash with horseradish 41 Thai shellfish pot 106 White fish with sesame noodles 37 Wild salmon & avocado triangles 82

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Vegetarian mains

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Amazing dressed beets 15 Beet hummus & crispy chickpea subs 36 Beetroot & halloumi salad with pomegranate & dill 90 Brazil nut burritos 26 Brown rice tabbouleh with eggs & parsley 84 Caramelised onion & chicory tart with Gorgonzola 98 Curried cauliflower & lentil soup 39 Dhal 118 Goat’s cheese, tomato & olive triangles 82 Green bean & penne salad with tomato & olive dressing 85 Halloumi traybake 48 Healthier veggie carbonara 48 Loaded baked potatoes with slaw 52 Mexican penne with avocado 90 Mini lentil shepherd’s pies 52 Mushroom & potato soup 86 Open leek & sweet potato pie 30 Red pepper linguine 38 Veggie toad-in-the-hole 50

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Sides, sauces, cocktails & extras

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Adonis fizz 121 Brazil nut refried beans 26 Caramelised honey carrots 51 Crunchy polenta roasties 51 Easy cheese dressing 26 Stir-fried greens with fish sauce 112 Tomato burrito rice 26 Veggie gravy 51 Whiskey sour 20 Za’atar 154

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Baking & desserts

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Apple crumble 128 Basic buttercream 10 Blood orange & yogurt bundts with Campari glaze 101 Butternut Bakewell bars 32 Chocolate orange flapjacks 100 Cinnamon meringue, roast bananas & saffron cream 118 Steamed marmalade sponge 123 The simplest loaf in Britain (not sourdough) 69 Triangular bread thins 82 Vegan lemon cake 151

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JANUARY 2018 bbcgoodfood.com 153

72 new triple-tested recipes

this month’s recipes

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