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february H E A LT H Y I S H

S TA RT E R S

BA KITCHEN

C O LU M N S

15 HOW TO BE HEALTHYISH RIGHT NOW

25 DINNER TONIGHT

42 CRUISE GUIDE: HEALTHYISH EDITION

Shrimp-andpineapple tacos and salad pizza help Jenny Rosenstrach get crowd-pleasing family dinners on the table—fast.

32 BASICALLY Glossy, saucy, neverfail pasta carbonara.

92 PREP SCHOOL

BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

The Greek yogurt we’re obsessed with, how to seed a pomegranate in record time, and more tips and tricks.

34 THE PARTY Rich, meaty chili and cornbread (with hot honey butter) take this Super Bowl party menu into the end zone. RECIPES BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

38 KID APPROVED How to get tiny humans to eat their cauliflower: Hide it in bubbling, cheesy pasta. BY CHRIS MOROCCO

YOU NEED MORE SPICE MIXES IN YOUR LIFE. P. 6 6

Amanda Shapiro sets sail on a weeklong wellness trip that trades the all-you-can-eat buffet for juice bars, thermal baths, and oxygen facials.

98 LAST BITE In which we discover Jon Hamm is just like us—at least when it comes to breakfast. BY DAVID WALTERS

IN EVERY ISSUE 12 editor’s letter 96 recipe index 96 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

Cocktails that fight inflammation and oxidation (but sadly not hangovers) • How to pretend you know what an adaptogen is •In praise of the mighty molcajete •If you need us, we’ll be meditating •and more.

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Editor in Chief

ADAM RAPOPORT Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC Director of Editorial Operations JENNY HAIGHT Digital Director CAREY POLIS

Editors

Design

Digital

Senior Projects Editor JULIA KRAMER Senior Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Associate Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY Contributing Editorial Assistant ASHLEY MASON Editor at Large CHRISTINE MUHLKE Entertainment Associate MAXWELL LOSGAR Assistant to the Editor in Chief RYAN WALKERHARTSHORN

Design Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON Senior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY

Senior Web Editors ALEX BEGGS, AMANDA SHAPIRO (HEALTHYISH), AMIEL STANEK (BASICALLY) Social Media Manager RACHEL KARTEN Associate Web Editors JULIA BLACK, ALYSE WHITNEY Associate Social Media Manager EMILY SCHULTZ Assistant Web Editor ALEX DELANY Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN Editorial Web Assistants ALIZA ABARBANEL, EMMA WARTZMAN E-commerce Editor ELAHEH NOZARI Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANT Software Engineers JULIE BUSCH, JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, CHRISTOPHER LEBRON, ALAN SIEGLER Associate Analytics Director BILAL SHAIKH Associate Audience Development Director ERIKA OWEN

Photography Senior Visuals Editor ELIZABETH JAIME Associate Visuals Editor EMILY EISEN Staff Photographers CHELSIE CRAIG, ALEX LAU

Food Editors

Operations

Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRIS MOROCCO, CLAIRE SAFFITZ Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS

Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ Design Production Associate KATE FENOGLIO Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Managers BRIAN CARROLL, HEIDI JACOBS Research Director SUSAN SEDMAN Research Managers BRYNA JEANMARIE, CHRISTINE PENBERTHY

Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, ALISON ROMAN, MARISSA A. ROSS, BEN SCHOTT; JIM SCHUESSLER (TABLET)

Artistic Director

ANNA WINTOUR

Executive Director of Communications for The Lifestyle Collection MOLLY PACALA

Chief Business Officer

CRAIG KOSTELIC VP Revenue JEFF BARISH VP Revenue BETH LUSKOGUNDERMAN VP Revenue JORDANA PRANSKY Digital General Manager ERIC GILLIN VP Marketing BREE M C KENNEY VP Finance & Business Development BARBRA PERLSTEIN Executive Strategy Director HAYLEY RUSSMAN Senior Director, Sales Operations MARY BETH DWYER

Advertising New York Sales Directors MELISSA GOOLNICK SCHWARTZ , JEANNIE LIVESAY, MARK LLOYD, BILL PITTEL Executive Account Directors NINA B. BROGNA, FRANCESCA COIA, CATHERINE DEWLING, WENDY GARDNER LANDAU, PRIYA NAT, KATHRYN NAVE Senior Account Director EMILY HARRIS Account Directors SARAH COYLE, KATIE TOMLINSON, COLLEEN TREMONT

Finance & Business Operations Senior Business Manager FAYE CHIU MOSLEY Business Managers JESSICA REINHARDT, JACQUI SNYDER, TING WANG Business Analyst LUISA ALMONTE Business Assistant SAMANTHA SIEGFRIED

Digital Sales Operations Managers, Sales Operations ISABEL KIERENCEW, ALEXANDRA NIEMEYER Account Managers ROBERT NOLAN, BROOKE PISCHKE, TIMOTHY SAMSON, MANDY SCHMIDT, SEAN WALTER Associate Account Manager JENA JOHANSEN Sales Planners NICOLE BRAMBLE, EMILY BYERLY, HEATHER DRING, NICOLE GUZMAN, SARAH KENNY, KAITLYN MARLEY, NICK PAPA, LENA PERLMUTTER, ADAM ZAKRZEWSKI Executive Assistant to Chief Business Officer MADELINE CURRY Sales Associates SEAN CARTER, CATHERINE CIVGIN, HALLIE DRAPKIN, BRIDGET HAYES, LAUREN PERNAL, SERENA SHETH, SAMANTHA BENEDICT, CHELSEA HORHN, SAMANTHA PINTO

Brand Marketing Executive Directors, Brand Marketing SHELLY JOHNSON, TARA MELVIN Executive Director, Marketplace Strategy BARRI TROT T Directors, Marketing DINA BIBLARZ, CHRISTIN D E MARIA Director, Marketplace Strategy BRITTANY BAKACS

10  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Associate Directors, Brand Marketing MARION BREWER, MATTHEW HARE, TOM HEISS, ELENA KORN, LUCAS SANTOS Managers, Brand Marketing JACKIE ALABASTRO, CAROLINE LUPPESCU, JOSHUA M C DONALD, NATALIE MERIN, JORDAN SCHAEFER, ARISARA SRISETHNIL, ANNE WOODARD Associates, Brand Marketing MARYBETH LAWRENCE, OLIVIA MARDER, ALLISON R E DAVID Director, Experiences JEFFREY C. CALDWELL Associate Directors, Experiences JENNIFER MILLS, JOSH ROBERTSON Associates, Experiences JEN LANZARONE, EDEN MOSCONE

Creative Services Executive Director, Creative Strategy CHARLES RUNNET TE Art Directors TANYA DESELM, MARISSA EHRHARDT, PHUONG NGUYEN Senior Designer CORINNE VIANA Designers ELENA SCOT T, STEPHANIE STANLEY Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN Director of Creative Content Production DANA KRAVIS Branded Content Editors ANNIE DALY, SARAH M C LELLAN Executive Chef MARY NOLAN

Branch Offices ( Los Angeles ) MELISSA LEE, Senior Account Director 323.965.3455 ELIZABETH MURPHY, Executive Account Director 323.965.3578 ( San Francisco / Nor thwest ) CONOR O’DONNELL, Account Director 415.276.5158 ( Midwest ) PAMELA QUANDT, VP, Revenue 312.649.3526 ASHLEY CONNOR, Executive Account Director 312.649.3512 JENNA ERNSTER, Executive Account Director 312.649.3549 ( Detroit ) ANNE GREEN, Executive Account Director 248.765.9126 ( Florida / Southeast/ Caribbean ) PETER M. ZUCKERMAN , Z-Media 305.532.5566 ( Southwest ) LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY, 972.960.2889 ( Canada ) DODD MEDIA GROUP, 905.885.0664 ( Mexico) JOHN HILLOCK, 212.286.2035

Published By Condé Nast Chairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR. President & Chief Executive Officer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR. Chief Financial Officer DAVID E. GEITHNER Chief Revenue & Marketing Officer PAMELA DRUCKER MANN EVP / Chief Digital Officer FRED SANTARPIA Chief Human Resources Officer J O ANN MURRAY Chief Communications Officer CAMERON R. BLANCHARD EVP / Consumer Marketing MONICA RAY Chief Experience Officer JOSH STINCHCOMB Chief Revenue Officer, Industry Sales, Condé Nast LISA VALENTINO SVP / Financial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDT SVP / Licensing CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER SVP / Research & Analytics STEPHANIE FRIED SVP / Digital Operations LARRY BAACH SVP / Human Resources NICOLE ZUSSMAN General Manager–Digital MAT THEW STARKER Head Creative Director RAÚL MARTINEZ

Condé Nast Entertainment President DAWN OSTROFF EVP / General Manager–Digital Video JOY MARCUS EVP / Chief Operating Officer SAHAR ELHABASHI EVP / Motion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER EVP / Alternative TV JOE L A BRACIO EVP / CNÉ Studios AL EDGINGTON SVP / Marketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND

Condé Nast International Chairman and Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets. Published at One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007 www.condenast.com www.condenastinternational.com

Subscriptions Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617; call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.); send email to subscriptions@bonappetit.com; or visit our website, bonappetit.com.

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editor’s letter

At the Rapoport household in the 1970s, you got salad every night with dinner. The same salad. Iceberg lettuce, some underripe tomatoes, and a few cucumber coins. “Eat your salad or you don’t get dessert.” That was the refrain. Finishing it was easy, in that it didn’t really taste like much— other than the Thousand Island dressing that my brother and sister and I glopped on top. I don’t mean to throw my mom under the bus. She was a topnotch home cook, and still is. But back in the day in Washington, D.C., let’s just say that she wasn’t exactly, to borrow a current restaurantism, “vegetable forward.” A native Wisconsinite, she had a repertoire of meatloaf and mashed potatoes, brisket, breaded veal chops for my dad’s birthday. As kids, my brother and sister would fight over the crispy bacon strips affixed atop the weekly meatloaf. They were good days. Fast-forward to 2018. As I write this letter, I’m sitting in an exceptionally cheery Aussie-owned, all-day café in Tribeca called Two Hands. I’m eating what the menu terms a Brassicas Bowl—a tangle of kale, shaved brussels, and charred broccolini; a jammy 7-minute egg; half an avocado; and a swoosh of hummus. Which, as it happens, is basically what I made for dinner the previous night, swapping in some farro and roasted butternut squash. 12  F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 8

Not that I eat this way all the time. I firmly inherited my parents’ penchant for the meaty things in life. My ten-year-old son will tell you that I make the best smash burger in New York City, and I’m not going to argue with him. But the breadth of ingredients that I reach for in my kitchen these days is kind of astounding. By going to restaurants like Two Hands and its wave of sunlit siblings that Christine Muhlke chronicles on page 78, I now come home asking my wife whether we shouldn’t be stirring tahini into our salad dressing. And why aren’t we spooning labneh onto our plates like nearly every cookbook author in America? And how exactly does one cook with turmeric? Not that these ingredients or techniques are new. As Andy Baraghani writes in his modern Middle Eastern primer on page 66, they’ve been around for millennia. But they’re now easily accessible in the States. And in that inimitable American fashion, professional chefs and home cooks alike are incorporating them in ways that are, at times, “authentic” and other times not. What mattered to us in assembling this annual Healthyish issue is that they’re all straight-up delicious. A DA M R A P O P O R T ed i tor i n c hie f

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How to Get Healthyish Right Now

RIBBON ILLUSTRATION BY GEORGE WYLESOL

The booze, buzzwords, and off-the-beatenpath spots every yoga-practicing, tahini-eating person should know

Sure, there’s rum in the matcha colada at abcV in New York, but the matcha lets us pretend it’s good for us.

P H OTO G R A P H BY C H E L S I E C R A I G

F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 8  15

TUSK

PORTLAND, OR

16  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

PORTLAND, OR

CHICAGO

NASHVILLE

LOS ANGELES

Gin, carrot, and kombucha

Gin, lime, and arugula

LOS ANGELES

MINNEAPOLIS

BOTANICA

ALMA

P.Y.T.

NYC

ST. LOUIS

Carrot mimosa

ROUGE TOMATE

VICIA

Vodka with orange and yogurt whey

Granola-infused rum with chia seeds

PHOTOGRAPHS: IZAIAH JOHNSON (VICIA); ASHLEY SULLIVAN (ALMA); BRANDON HARMAN (BOTANICA + P.Y.T.); LUIS GARCÍA (LITTLE OCTOPUS); CHELSIE CRAIG (ROUGE TOMATE); JULES DAVIES (TUSK, QUAINTRELLE) MATT HAAS (QUIOTE)

Celery shrub with mezcal

LIT TLE OCTOPUS

Fermented lime soda with tequila

THE NINE

QUIOTE

Gin, sea beans, and lemon oil

QUAINTRELLE

Vodka, beets, almond, and yogurt

STARTERS

Well Drinks

Remember when all that talk of heart health made your daily Beaujolais seem virtuous? Then you obviously approve of the wellness trend hitting our favorite restaurants’ cocktail lists. Whether it’s a grass-green matcha colada or some turmeric-ginger–spiked rum, now we’re fighting inflammation and oxidation with every sip. If only they’d invent one with a built-in hangover cure. NIKITA RICHARDSON

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S T A R T E R S

LOVE LET TER

Back to the Grind Megan Sanchez of Güero in Portland, OR, uses molcajetes to make the best salsas—and to connect to her past

When I was growing up, molcajetes were just around. They’re these heavy, imposing tools made of volcanic rock, and I thought, Oh, grandmas use those, but I can’t. Then I met my partner, Alec Morrison, and we spent a month together in the Yucatan. Seeing women work their molcajetes so skillfully fascinated me. They’ve been in continuous use across Mesoamerican cultures for thousands of years—using them is a bit of an art form. I have a small one that I bought on that trip, and then I added four more over time. I use my larger ones for making salsa and my smaller ones for making chili paste or cracking spices. The rough texture releases ingredients’

oils, which is why blender salsa will never taste as good as if it were made with a molcajete. A new molcajete is much like a new cast-iron pan: You have to season it, but it’s worth it. The traditional way is to use it to grind raw rice into a powder to extract bits of grit in the walls, then rinse. Next, you pound garlic and salt into it. Eventually the bowl becomes layered with flavor from all the things you’ve made in it. Alec and I are trying to go to Oaxaca soon. I’m already looking into a bigger suitcase so I can bring more molcajetes back. It allows you to be part of that big, ancient cuisine, and that’s really cool. AS TOLD TO JULIA BAINBRIDGE

Crush a bit of piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar), then toss with a bunch of peeled medium carrots and olive oil and roast on a rimmed baking sheet in a 425° oven until carrots are browned. Meanwhile, toast 6 unpeeled cloves of garlic, 1 sliced onion, and a few whole habaneros in a dry skillet until blackened on all sides. Stem habaneros, peel garlic, chop onion, and simmer in a saucepan with apple cider vinegar and water. Then mash it all in the molcajete until it has a salsa-like texture. 18  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Can’t make it to Mexico? Sanchez also loves her 10" molcajete from williamssonoma.com ($60).

PHOTOGRAPH BY JULES DAVIES

Sanchez’s Carrot-Chile Salsa

CAN’T COOK? NO PROBLEM.

e a tb as ically.co m • @bas ica l l y • A new b ra nd f ro m B o n A p p éti t

STARTERS

Do You Speak Wellness? Learn to keep your adaptogens straight from your anti-inflammatories with our almanac of today’s health buzzwords BY C A R O L I N E M O S S

N AT U R A L W I N E

BLISS BALLS

Energy balls rebranded.

A DA P TO G E N S

Herbal ingredients (such as maca, ashwagandha, and rhodiola rosea) that purportedly help your body bounce back from stress and fatigue. You can down ’em in pill form or take them in your smoothie or coffee. Sun Potion and Moon Juice brands are the big names in the game.

Altering your natural breathing patterns to achieve relaxation. It’s what you’re supposed to be doing during yoga when you’re wondering where the woman in front of you bought her ombré water bottle. When you’re feeling overwhelmed, pay attention to the rising and falling of your chest—that’s breathwork.

g GOLDEN MILK

I N F L A M M AT I O N

Two healthyish ingredients— turmeric plus coconut milk (or other alt-milk)—join forces to gain a cult following. Inspired by the Indian drink haldi ka doodh, literally “turmeric milk” in Hindi.

When you experience redness, swelling, or pain— all signs of inflammation— that’s your immune system fighting against a foreign agent. That’s a good thing! So why does every single ingredient seem to be marketed as antiinflammatory? (See matcha, turmeric, chia seeds.) Because chronic inflammation is linked to diseases like arthritis, asthma, and some types of cancer. That’s where superfoods and supplements come in.

AY U R V E D A

The Cliffs Notes version: India’s holistic practice of natural healing that believes we become balanced when we’re mentally, physically, and spiritually at one with the universe. It deeply informs so many of today’s healthyish practices, from yoga to mindfulness to clean eating. Consider us 5,000 years late to the party.

2 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

c CBD

Cannabidiol, a.k.a. oil from the cannabis plant. Gives you the chill you’d get from lighting a joint but because it contains no psychoactive THC, without the “I’m so stoned” aftermath. (In other words, you won’t feel like a college freshman every time you use it.) Its current chic vehicles include a legal (in most states, at least!) variety of creams, oils, and chocolates made by high-design brands. No Woodstock vibes here.

MINDFULNESS G R AT I T U D E

The act of fully appreciating the good around you. (Occasionally enhanced by writing it in an aesthetically pleasing journal

Learning how to truly live in the present (no matter how many tweets you just read). Apps like Headspace are beloved among meditation fans, and we bet you have at least one pal who swears by it. If you’re not quite there yet, just try leaving your phone

t TO N I C

A drink that gives you a feeling of well-being is its technical definition, which explains why you’ve seen ginger tonics, elderberry tonics, cayenne tonics, and hibiscus tonics on menus. You know what we’re excited about? Boozy tonics (see page 16).

ILLUSTRATIONS BY HISASHI OKAWA

B R E AT H W O R K

The definition varies depending on whom you ask, but generally it means wines made without chemicals or mechanical intervention. The resulting wines are unpredictable and often funky. They’re also arguably better for the environment and, if the new wave of hip wine bars are any indication, significantly cooler than conventional wines.

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T R A V E L

We Could Use a Vacation How to kick back, relax, and not completely overindulge when you’re traveling

Why Is Everyone Jetting to Portugal?

The view from São Lourenço do Barrocal can wipe away at least a month’s worth of stress.

This seasoned traveler will make you want to book your ticket too “We stayed in the prettiest hotel, the São Lourenço do Barrocal, on a former olive-farming estate in Monsaraz. You can ride bikes and horses through the olive groves, and you can see a medieval castle high on a hilltop from your room’s window. Ride your bike to the top, tour the castle, and wander the cobblestone streets. Be sure to get an espresso and a little pastry at Casa Tial, a gourmet grocery store that also sells beautiful olive oils and sardines.”

PHOTOGRAPHS: NELSON GARRIDO (SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL); CHELSIE CRAIG (SANDALS); ALEX LAU (CARRYON PRODUCTS)

S T A R T E R S

JULIE O ’ROURKE, OWNER OF RUDY JUDE CLOTHING LINE, AS TOLD TO ALIZA ABARBANEL

BLIND SEED H E A RTC A M P

Retreats We’d Actually Go On If you thought wellness escapes were just nonstop yoga with 30 of your crunchiest friends, think again MACKENZIE WAGONER

City dwellers will head to upstate New York early this summer to get schooled on fitting self-care into their breakneck schedules. Think meditation, morning farmers’ market visits, and advice on eating in a way that’s sustainable for the earth and your to-do list. blindseed.com

THE DEEPHEALING WOODS AT BLACKBERRY FARM

The luxurious foodfocused property is also a jaw-dropping example of the pacifying powers of nature. This May, take forest hikes with a professional forager, then translate your haul of chanterelles, morels, and leeks into dinner. blackberryfarm.com

RULES OF HEALTHYISH TRAVEL

Walk—or bike!—everywhere.

Drink at lunch or dinner, not both.

PAC K I N G L I S T

What’s in Your Carry-On? happy, and full at 30,000 feet

Travel Tonic This tincture is formulated with herbs that support the digestive and immune systems, help your body bounce back from jet lag, and calm your nerves. I put several dropperfuls in my water bottle to sip during my flight and take a little each day to keep my balance while I’m on the road.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY HISASHI OKAWA. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Watermelon Road Pineapple Mojito Jerky “ This is the Cadillac of dried fruit. Each tropical, tangy slice of pineapple seasoned with lime and mint makes me think I’m already on vacation.” ASHLEY MASON , CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

T PER

ALAINA SULLIVAN , SENIOR DESIGNER

PIC

The Perfect WarmWeather Vacation Shoe Marikoko’s lightweight woven macramé sandals are breezy enough to slip on with your cover-up at the beach and stylish enough to pair with a sundress for dinner. And they’ll add about, oh, zero pounds to your duffel. $100; marikoko.com Always carry a water bottle.

Tif fany Lester, M.D., Parsley Health “I’ll bring an apple with a little nut-butter pack. Then I usually have a matcha packet and a collagen protein-powder packet for caffeine and protein, which I mix into steamed coconut milk from Starbucks. They usually look at me like I’m insane.”

Visit a local yoga studio.

Brooklyn Biltong Beef Jerky “ This is my favorite lazy proteinpacked airplane snack when I don’t have time to make something. Unlike some jerky brands, this one isn’t tough and ropy, and there are no scar y additives. I usually finish the whole bag.” ANDY BARAGHANI, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR

Give yourself permission to cross one thing off your itinerary. F E B R U A R Y 2 018  2 3

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kitchen RECIPES

TIPS

MENU IDEAS

Dinner Tonight by JENNY ROSENSTR ACH

Between sports practices and study groups, my two teenage daughters are now busier than their parents, putting the premium for quick-tomake, easy-to-love dinners at an all-time high. That’s how this Roast Chicken and Carrots with Mustard and Thyme became one of our MVPs. Place a rack in the highest position in oven; preheat to 450°. Place ¾ cup panko in a small bowl. Mash 4 Tbsp. room-temperature unsalted butter, ¼ cup Dijon mustard, and 2 Tbsp. thyme leaves in another small bowl with a fork. Pat 8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs dry and place on a rimmed baking sheet; season both sides with salt and pepper. Smear butter mixture all over skin side of thighs and, working with 1 piece at a time, firmly press chicken, skin side down, into panko so crumbs adhere. Set back on baking sheet skin side up. Arrange 1 lb. medium carrots, scrubbed, cut into 4" pieces, halved if large, and 3 thyme sprigs around chicken. Drizzle with 2 Tbsp. olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Bake until carrots are tender and chicken is cooked through, 25–30 minutes. Heat broiler. Broil chicken and carrots just until panko is golden brown and carrots are tender and browned in spots, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter and pour pan juices over carrots. 4 servings P H OTO G R A P H S BY B O B B I L I N

F E B R U A R Y 2 018  2 5

k DINNER TONIGHT

Shrimp Tales The shortcuts to a super-speedy taco night: one baking sheet and a hot broiler Shrimp Tacos with Pineapple MAKES 8

½ small red onion, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Pinch of sugar Kosher salt ¼ medium pineapple,1 peeled, cored, cut lengthwise into spears, then crosswise ½" thick (about 2 cups) 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1¼ lb. shrimp,2 peeled, deveined 2 6  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Choose a pineapple that’s fragrant, feels heavy for its size, and gives slightly when pressed at the base. 2 Starting from frozen? Throw shrimp in a resealable bag and set in a bowl of cool running water in the sink—you’ll be good to go in 10–15 minutes. 3If your shrimp are opaque and springy to the touch, they’re done. C O O K ’S N O T E S

1 Tbsp. Sriracha Freshly ground black pepper 8 corn tortillas, warmed 1 avocado, sliced 1 jalapeño, very thinly sliced, seeds removed if desired ½ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems Lime wedges (for serving) Place a rack in the highest position in oven; heat broiler. Toss red onion, lime juice, sugar, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl; set aside. Toss pineapple and 1 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking sheet and arrange in a single layer on half of baking sheet; reserve bowl. Broil pineapple until lightly charred around the edges, 5–8 minutes. Meanwhile, toss shrimp, Sriracha, and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in reserved bowl

until shrimp are evenly coated; season with salt and pepper and toss again. Remove baking sheet from broiler and use a spatula to turn pineapple pieces over. Arrange shrimp in a single layer on empty half of baking sheet. Broil until shrimp are cooked through on top, about 2 minutes. Remove from broiler and turn shrimp (leave pineapple alone). Broil again until shrimp are cooked through,3 1–2 minutes. Transfer shrimp and pineapple to a large bowl and season with more salt and pepper. Drain soaking liquid from onion into bowl with shrimp and pineapple; set onion aside and toss shrimp and pineapple in pickling liquid. Serve shrimp mixture with tortillas, avocado, jalapeño, cilantro, lime wedges, and reserved pickled onion for making tacos.

k DINNER TONIGHT

A New Leaf We swapped the red sauce for crisp lettuce tossed in a bracing dressing—and we’re into it Salad Pizza 4 S E RV I N G S

1 lb. store-bought pizza dough, room temperature1 3 Tbsp. plus ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, finely grated Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 large head of Bibb lettuce, leaves separated and torn 4 oz. Gorgonzola, crumbled (about 1½ cups) ¼ cup pickled red onion2 3 Tbsp. sliced chives 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 tsp. sugar 4 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto3 Preheat oven to 475°. Place dough on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil; turn to coat. Stretch dough outward with your hands until it covers the entire sheet (it should be thin, which is what you want). If dough springs back, let it rest a few minutes to relax before stretching again. Mix garlic and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl. Drizzle over dough, using your hands to spread across entire surface; season with salt and pepper. Bake dough, rotating baking sheet once, until golden, puffed, and crisp all over, 10–12 minutes. Let cool slightly (so lettuce won’t wilt). Toss lettuce, Gorgonzola, pickled onion, and chives in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Whisk vinegar and sugar in another small bowl, then, whisking constantly, gradually stream in remaining ⅓ cup oil. Pour dressing over salad and toss to coat. Arrange salad on top of pizza crust and drape prosciutto over. Slice pizza into squares. 2 8  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Letting the dough sit out for 20–30 minutes makes it easier to handle and stretch. 2 Make a double batch of pickled onions (find our go-to recipe at bonappetit.com/onions) to layer in sandwiches, salads, and tacos that need a pick-me-up. 3 Any good thinly sliced ham will be delicious here. C O O K ’S N O T E S

THE DESERT IS WILD Absolutely spontaneous.

AbsolutelyScottsdale.com

k DINNER TONIGHT

Feel free to use another cooked grain, such as freekeh, barley, or farro. 2 No merguez? No problem. Sub with sweet Italian pork or chicken sausages instead. 3 Seed a pomegranate in record time—flip to Prep School, page 92, for our (almost) mess-free method. C O O K ’S N O T E S

Make It Grain Cooked a big batch of grains on Sunday? Congratulations—you’re halfway to a weeknight dinner Wheat Berry Bowl with Merguez and Pomegranate 2 cups wheat berries1 Kosher salt 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 lb. merguez sausage, casings removed 2 1 garlic clove, finely grated ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided 2 tsp. za’atar, plus more for serving Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup pomegranate seeds 3 ¼ cup coarsely chopped mint, plus leaves for serving 4 scallions, thinly sliced, divided 3 Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced into rounds 3 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

S P E C I A L I N G R E D I E N T : Za’atar, a spice blend of herbs, sumac, and sesame seeds, is available at Middle Eastern markets, specialty foods stores, and online.

Simmer wheat berries in a large saucepan of salted water until grains are tender and hulls have just started to split open (cook time will vary and can take up to 1 hour). Drain and rinse under cold water, then thoroughly drain again. Transfer to a large bowl. Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Cook sausage, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until browned

and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl with a slotted spoon. Mix garlic, yogurt, 1 Tbsp. oil, 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, and 2 tsp. za’atar in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Set yogurt sauce aside. Add pomegranate seeds, chopped mint, half of scallions, remaining 2 Tbsp. oil, and remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice to bowl with wheat berries and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Divide wheat berry mixture among bowls and top with cucumbers, sausage, and remaining scallions. Drizzle with reserved yogurt sauce, scatter mint leaves over, and sprinkle with more za’atar.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY BJORN PARK.

4 S E RV I N G S

Make Sargento chicken fajita quesadillas

REAL CHEESE PEOPLE

KNOW WHEN

FRESH GOES IN,

GREAT TASTE COMES OUT.

That’s the power of real, natural cheese – shredded fresh off the block. Sargento Shreds will always make food taste its best. Every quesadilla deserves that. ®

BASICALLY

Put an Egg in It

b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

1―CUT DOWN TO SIZE

2 ― W H I S K A WAY

Bring 3 Tbsp. kosher salt and 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Slice 4 oz. guanciale, pancetta, or slab bacon into 1x¼" strips (they should be bite-size pieces).

Finely grate 2 oz. Parmesan and set aside one-quarter for later. Whisk remaining cheese, 4 large egg yolks, 2 large eggs, and lots of freshly ground pepper in a medium bowl until smooth.

3―ALL ABOUT THE CRISP

4―NOODLE AROUND

5―GO DUTCH (OVEN)

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Cook guanciale, stirring just until crisp, 7–10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and pour off all but 3 Tbsp. fat. Set aside for now.

Cook 1 lb. bucatini in pot of boiling water, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes shy of package instructions. Just before pasta is done, scoop out 1¾ cups pasta water and reserve (you’ll use it in a minute).

Add 1 cup reserved pasta water to Dutch oven; bring to a boil over medium-high. Using tongs, transfer pasta to Dutch oven and cook, tossing, until al dente and liquid is reduced by half, about 2 minutes.

6―TOSS AND TURN

7―MAKE IT CREAMY

8―MORE CHEESE!

Remove pot from heat. Whisk ¼ cup pasta water into egg mixture, then slowly stream into pasta, tossing like crazy until cheese is melted and egg has thickened to form a smooth, glossy sauce.

Taste and season sauce with more salt if needed. Thin sauce with remaining pasta water, adding a splash at a time (you likely won’t use all of it), until it’s the consistency of heavy cream. Fold in guanciale.

Divide pasta among plates or shallow bowls, making sure to scrape all the sauce at the bottom of the pot. Top with reserved cheese and a few more grinds of pepper. Makes 4 servings (with possible seconds).

3 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

P H OTO G R A P H S BY C H E L S I E C R A I G

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

Transform eggs, noodles, cheese, and pork into glossy, glorious pasta carbonara. It’s the cupboard-is-bare dinner of our dreams

ALL

E XC L U S I V E

™

H E L P S Y O U P L A N T H E P E R F E C T G E T A W AY.

By sea, river, land and air, we have redefined the way the world views luxury travel. Call 888-557-5717 or your travel professional. CrystalCruises.com OCEAN | RIVER | YACHT EXPEDITION | PRIVATE JET JOURNEYS

THE PART Y

Game Changer Our Super Bowl priorities: a big pot of rich, meaty chili, a skillet of warm cornbread, and plenty of ice-cold beer re c i p e s b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

N HOT HO

SKI

SIC

O R N B R E A D P. 37 LLET C

THERE ARE FEW THINGS I’LL LEAVE MY SEAT FOR WHEN THE SUPER BOWL IS ON —this is an evening when couch space is guarded with one’s life. But a bowl of chili is one of them. Not just any chili, though. I’m talking about a monumental pot of deeply flavorful, perfectly spiced beef, ready to be piled generously with everything from Fritos to chopped red onion to sour cream to avocado. While I’m up, I’m assembling my bowl swiftly, grabbing a piece of cornbread and a healthy serving of hot honey butter, snagging another beer, spinning and juking to avoid hungry friends barreling toward the stovetop. The game might be on the TV, but as real Super Bowl party champions can attest, athletics matter in the trip to and from the kitchen, too. ALEX DELANY

3 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

P H OTO G R A P H S BY B O B B I L I N

GUTTER

Switch to GEICO and save money for the things you love. Maybe it’s a serving of sturgeon roe. Or a few ounces of white truffle. Amazing food is what you love – and it doesn’t come cheap. So switch to GEICO, because you could save 15% or more on car insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.

Auto • Home • Rent • Cycle • Boat geico.com | 1-800-947-AUTO (2886) | local office Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Homeowners and renters coverages are written through non-afﬁliated insurance companies and are secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2017 GEICO

k THE PART Y super bowl

THE PL AN HOW TO PULL OFF THIS PART Y

UP TO FOUR DAYS BEFORE

THE MORNING OF THE GAME

ONE HOUR BEFORE KICKOFF

Make the chili. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate.

Assemble and bake the cornbread. Mix the hot honey butter.

Gently reheat chili. Prep all the fixings and put in bowls.

WHERE YOU BEAN? CHUCK WAGON

Classic chili is (or should be) all beef. We use chuck, which has plenty of fat and is available everywhere.

If you’re looking for legumes, the citizens of Texas would like to have a word with you.

GO WHOLE

Using intact dried chiles instead of jarred powders contributes a more complex flavor and a saturated hue.

BOT TLES UP

You’re already drinking, so why not pour some beer into the pot? Lager imparts just the right amount of bitterness, rounding out the chiles.

“We follow the three tenets of traditional Southern cornbread: There’s no sugar added, there’s no flour (only coarse-ground cornmeal), and there’s no better way to bake it than in a cast-iron skillet.” C.S. Beef Chili It’s faster and easier to brown the meat in larger pieces first and chop them afterward. 12 S E RV I N G S

4 2 2 3 5

2 6 1 2 1

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY BJORN PARK.

3 1 2

large or 6 medium ancho chiles dried guajillo chiles dried pasilla chiles Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil lb. boneless beef chuck, cut into ½" slices Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper large yellow onions, chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped Tbsp. ground cumin tsp. dried oregano 14.5-oz. can fire-roasted crushed tomatoes Tbsp. dark brown sugar 12-oz. bottle lager tsp. apple cider vinegar Toppings as desired (see sidebar)

Remove seeds from ancho, guajillo, and pasilla chiles and place in a medium bowl. Pour in 3 cups boiling water and cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap; let sit until chiles are softened, 20–25 minutes. Transfer chiles and soaking liquid to a blender and blend on high until smooth, about 1 minute; set aside. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Season beef all over with salt and pepper. Working in 2–3 batches, cook, turning pieces once, until browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Reduce heat to medium; add onions and garlic to pot. Cook, stirring often to loosen browned bits from bottom of pot, until onions are translucent and very soft, 6–8 minutes. Add cumin and oregano and cook, stirring, until spices start to stick to pot, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and brown sugar and scrape bottom of pot to loosen spices, then add lager. Bring to a lively simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until beer is almost completely evaporated, 10–15 minutes. Meanwhile, cut beef into ½" pieces, discarding any large bits of fat or gristle. Add beef, reserved chile purée, and 2 cups water to pot; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer gently, uncovered, until liquid

is thickened and meat is very tender, 1½–2 hours. Taste chili and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar. Divide chili among bowls and top as desired. D O A H E A D : Chili can be made 4 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat gently over low, stirring occasionally, and adding a splash of water to loosen if needed.

Classic Skillet Cornbread 12 S E RV I N G S Don’t expect something sweet and muffiny here. This rustic cornbread is sturdy and dry and meant to be dunked.

2½ 1¼ 1¼ 1 1⅔ 2

cups coarse-grind cornmeal tsp. baking soda tsp. kosher salt large egg cups buttermilk Tbsp. bacon fat, lard, or unsalted butter Hot Honey Butter (see recipe; for serving)

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Hot Honey Butter M A K E S A B O U T ¾ C U P Use a hot sauce that isn’t just heat and vinegar but has a personality of its own. We like Frank’s.

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature 3 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. hot sauce Generous pinch of kosher salt Vigorously whisk butter, honey, hot sauce, and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. D O A H E A D : Butter can be made 8 hours ahead. Cover and store at room temperature.

THE TOPPINGS BAR What turns this chili into a party? Lots of little bowls of creamy and crunchy stuff to put on top.

SOUR CREAM

COARSELY GRATED CHEDDAR

CHOPPED RED ONION

CILANTRO

LIME WEDGES

FRITOS OR OTHER SALTY CHIPS

ROASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS

PICKLED JALAPEÑOS

SLICED AVOCADO

CORN NUTS

A 10"-diameter

cast-iron skillet Preheat oven to 375°. Set dry skillet over low heat to heat while you make the batter. Whisk cornmeal, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Make a well in the center and add egg and buttermilk, then whisk vigorously, starting in the center to incorporate egg and working your way out, until dry ingredients are incorporated and batter is smooth. Increase heat to medium-high and add bacon fat to skillet. Swirl to coat bottom and sides of skillet. Whisk batter once more to reincorporate, then pour into skillet and smooth top (batter will sputter around edges). Bake cornbread in oven until the edges are golden brown and the top is golden, cracked in places, and firm to the touch, 25–30 minutes. Let cool in pan at least 5 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve with Hot Honey Butter. D O A H E A D : Cornbread can be baked 8 hours ahead. Let cool; store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

F E B R U A R Y 2 018  3 7

KID APPROVED

Just Say It’s Cheese Provolone, sharp cheddar, and Parmesan distract tiny humans from the presence of cauliflower in this baked pasta

MY KIDS DON’T THINK I’M A VERY GOOD COOK.

For al dente pasta, partially cook the noodles before baking them.

3 8  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

I might be a food editor, but they question the judgment and skills of anyone who tries to serve them anything other than pasta with butter and cheese. Rather than turn mealtimes into battlegrounds, I’ve adopted a much more effective tactic: subterfuge. I make small healthyish tweaks to their favorite dishes and hope that they’ll be too hungry to notice. I slip in whole wheat pasta, roast potato “fries,” and hide vegetables inside their penne. In those moments when I find myself coaxing peas into tubular pasta, I long for a dish we could all just agree on and eat as a family. I think I may have found just that. Start by cooking 1 lb. medium shells in boiling salted water for half the time the package directs (so they don’t overcook when baked).

Drain, saving ½ cup pasta cooking water. Rinse pasta under cold running water to stop the cooking. Then mix 8 oz. coarsely grated low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella, 4 oz. coarsely grated provolone, 2 oz. coarsely grated sharp cheddar, 2 oz. grated Parmesan, one 14-oz. can cherry tomatoes, lightly crushed, 1½ cups heavy cream, and reserved pasta cooking water in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper. Mix in pasta and ½ head of cauliflower, coarsely chopped. Transfer to a buttered 3-qt. baking dish; cover tightly with foil. At this point you can chill it for a day before baking. Bake at 350° until pasta is hot throughout (it should release steam when foil is lifted), 20–25 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to 425°, and continue to bake until sauce is bubbling and top is browned in spots, 25–30 minutes. Even if my kids wish there weren’t so much “stuff” in the noodles, this pasta gets them to the dinner table and keeps them there for a solid five minutes. Victory!

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

by CHRIS MOROCCO

At College Inn,ÂŽ our broths and stocks are carefully crafted and simmered with the finest ingredients for the richest flavor. Visit collegeinn.com for recipes and more. Serving Suggestion ÂŠ2017 College Inn Foods, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

For some, it’s sitting down to the first five-star dinner of the trip, and being transported by the rich, unexpected flavors awaiting you. For others, it’s sailing into an exotic, remote port without another ship in sight. And for you, it’s the little things. Discover your moment.

ENJOY THE FINEST CUISINE AT SE A™ ABOARD OUR INTIM ATE AND LUXURIOUS SHIPS.

C ALL 855- OCE ANIA ( 855- 623-26 42) | VISIT OCE ANIACRUISES.COM / BA or CONTAC T YOUR TR AVEL AGENT

cruise guide H E A LT H Y I S H E D I T I O N

That thing where you stumble upon a hidden beach on the coast of Sicily…

Cleansing Waters Juice bars, thermal baths, and jawdropping vistas…on a cruise? Healthyish editor Amanda Shapiro had to see it to believe it GUTTER

C O N T I N U E S O N PA G E 4 9

4 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY

THE

EFFECT G E T R E A DY T O S AY “ Y E S ” T O A D V E N T U R E A N D T R Y SOMETHING NEW WITH THESE TIPS FOR ONEOFAKIND E ATS , D R I N KS , A N D T H I N G S TO S E E W H I L E I N TOW N .

PRONTO, DELIZIOSO! C A E S A R S PA L A C E

As her namesake restaurant GIADA hits its fourth anniversary at The Cromwell, Chef Giada De Laurentiis opens her first fastPronto at Caesars Palace. With her unique twist on CalifornianItalian cuisine, you can try a variety of fresh-pressed paninis, salads, and antipasti platters—and be the first to sip on Counter Culture coffee. i C A E S A R S P A L A C E | 8 6 6 . 2 2 7. 5 9 3 8 3 5 7 0 S L A S V E G A S B LV D

CAN’T MISS SHOWS

MICHAEL JACKSON ONE > > M A N D A L AY B AY

THE COSMOPOLITAN OF L AS VEGAS When you step inside the three-in-one bar at The Chandelier, you’ll wonder if you’re inside an art exhibit while sipping on cocktails from master mixologist Mariena Mercer. Order the Fire-Breathing Dragon— its sweet-andspicy Thai-inspired flavors blend berry-flavored rum with lemongrass, raspberry, and Thai chili, topped with nitrogen-charged raspberries that create a mind-bending swirling mist.

i T H E C O SM O P O L I TA N O F L AS V E GAS 7 0 2 . 6 9 8 . 75 75 | 37 0 8 S L A S V E G A S B LV D

ABSINTHE > > C A E S A R S PA L A C E

LE RÊVETHE DREAM >> WYNN L AS VEGAS

Indulge at Morimoto MGM GRAND LAS VEGAS

Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s modern take on Japanese cuisine delights savvy diners inside the contemporary restaurant space at Morimoto, which features exotic photographs by Yasumichi Morita. For those who crave seafood and want to indulge in a dish that celebrates the finest of ingredients, try the market oysters topped with foie gras, uni, and a lush teriyaki glaze. i MGM GRAND L AS VEGAS 7 0 2 . 8 91. 3 0 01 37 9 9 S L A S V E G A S B LV D

PA I R W I T H A W H I T E L I L LY  A MORIMOTO SIGNATURE COCKTAIL MADE WITH SHOCHU, YUZU & CALPICO.

A Speakeasy Secret COMMONWEALTH

Yes, the 6,000-sq-ft bar at Commonwealth—featuring alcove booths and candles illuminating the dark wood and brick interiors—is a prime destination in and of itself, but it’s The Laundry Room speakeasy that you’ll be vying to get into. Impress your friends by texting their reservation line with your most inventive access request to see if you’ll be able to sip on cocktails behind the secret door in the back. i 52 5 E F R E M O N T S T | 70 2 . 4 4 5 . 6 4 0 0

IF YO U MAKE IT BEHIND THE SECRET DOOR, ORDER UP THE BERRIED IN SIN, A CANDYHUED COCKTAIL MADE WITH CASSIS LIQUEUR, FRESH LIME, BLACKBERRIES & C H A M PAG N E .

STEP INTO H E L L ’S KITCHEN C A E S A R S PA L A C E

BAZ—A Musical Mash-up T H E PA L A Z Z O ® T H E AT R E If a mash-up of music, dance, and moments from some of Baz Luhrmann’s greatest films sounds like an awesome experience, BAZ at The Palazzo Theatre is sure to captivate you. An ensemble cast belts out the hits from Romeo + Juliet, Moulin Rouge, and The Great Gatsby inside (what feels like) an intimate cabaret venue. i T H E PA L A Z Z O ® L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 . 414 .10 0 0 3 3 2 5 S L A S V E G A S B LV D

POUR, SHAKE & STIR

Chef Gordon Ramsay’s very first immersive and experiential HELL’S KITCHEN restaurant opened at Caesars Palace, transporting you to the set of his hit TV show. Beyond the signature HK sign, chefs inside the open kitchen wear Team Red and Blue coats and bandanas, while calling audible one-of-a-kind eatery. i C A E S A R S PA L A C E | 8 6 6 . 2 2 7. 5 9 3 8 3 5 7 0 S L A S V E G A S B LV D

If late night cocktails are your game , the rich leather wrapped wood, impor ted granite , and polished nickel & brass accents at ALIBI Ultra Lounge at ARIA Resort & Casino might be your match . Wine connoisseur or cocktail aficionado—this upscale bar is sure to impress.

9 10

ÂĄHola! Chica THE VENE TIAN LAS VEGAS Celebrity Latina chef Lorena Garcia brings the bold flavors of Venezuela, Peru, Brazil, Mexico, and Argentina, among many more, to the Las Vegas Strip at Chica. Her menu celebrates traditional Latin American recipes, with unexpected touches added to each dish. From the ceviche bar to the rotisserie grill, to the one-of-a-kind murals, Chica is a feast for all the senses.

SIP ON THIS

i T H E V E N E T I A N L A S V E G A S | 7 0 2 . 8 0 5 . 8 4 7 2 | 3 3 5 5 S L A S V E G A S B LV D # 10 6

Shake things up with the classic and signature cocktails at Bound, the elevated a n d s ex y c i rc u l a r b a r s p a c e a t The C ro m w e l l . Tr y t he ex p e r t l y m a d e B r e a k f a s t Martiniâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with gin, Cointreau, fresh lemon, and fine orange marmalade .

CRUISE GUIDE health yish

I ’ D N E V E R T H O U G H T much about cruise ships until last year, when I noticed that wellness had become a serious focus for an industry better known for all-you-can-eat buffets. As the editor of Bon Appétit’s sister brand Healthyish, I spend a lot of time thinking about the lifestyle these cruise lines promise—filled with vegan grain bowls and therapeutic massages—but embarrassingly little time actually living it. In other words: I’m stressed. And the idea of spending a week on a floating health spa started sounding pretty good. So last fall I boarded Oceania’s Riviera with my boyfriend, José, and about 1,200 other passengers for a Mediterranean “wellness tour”—the cruise line’s collaboration with the health-resort company Canyon Ranch. I decided to keep a journal along the way so I could remember what true relaxation felt like when I returned to my landlocked desk in NYC.

S PA I N DAY 1  B A R C E LO N A

We’re supposed to be on a bus tour of the Catalonian coast, but we sleep through our alarm. I’m stressed already. I decide we should fight the feeling with a couples’ massage at the Canyon Ranch spa on an upper deck. While most of the Riviera is a proper luxury cruise line— chandeliered restaurants, wellappointed bars, roulette tables— this level is an oasis of health. I wrap myself in a bathrobe and down five glasses of orangeinfused water. If I act calm, I’ll feel calm, I tell myself. In the massage room, José is snoring within minutes; I worry that the pressure from the face rest is damaging my vocal cords. My masseuse, Liezel, finds a spot where it feels like a demon has latched on to my spine. “We have a lot of work to do this week,” she says, and I sigh. She’s right.

FRANCE DAY 2  AIXENPROVENCE

Today we manage to get up in time for a market tour, and I somehow stumble upon a café called Juice Lab, which looks to have been airlifted from Venice (California) and dropped in southern France. It’s all going great until I get back on board and meet Michal, the ship’s personal trainer. “Do you want me to be nice or honest?” he

asks. “Honest,” I tell him, but I’m lying. He makes me do pushups and sit-ups and run on the treadmill. He puts sticky pads with wires on my hands and attaches the wires to a little machine. Suddenly he knows things about me I’ve never known before: muscle-to-fat ratios, caloric needs, the amount of water in and outside of my cells. All this new information is making me, well, anxious. So I bury the printouts he gives me in my suitcase and go to Martinis, my favorite onboard bar, to play trivia with strangers. The cocktails here are extrabig and extra-cold, and they come with a sidecar. I love them more than I love the orange water at the spa. “I didn’t come on a cruise to change my body’s cellular makeup,” I explain to my new friends, who don’t care. Secretly I resolve to do the workout Michal gave me at least two more times this week.

Clockwise from left: The village of Èze in southern France; the writer’s picnic spread on a rocky beach; wall-to-wall tinned fish at La Belle -Iloise shop in Nice

DAY 3  N I C E

After breakfast on the boat— the smoked salmon from the buffet has become my go-to— it’s on to Nice, where we stroll through a market, sampling grapes that taste like candy and slices of hot socca (chickpea pancakes) made right in front of us. We nibble on figs, walnutstudded bread, and a sheep’smilk cheese that we’re promised is the best in France. Then we’re back on the tour bus to Château Eza, a Michelin-starred restaurant, perched on a cliff overlooking the Nice coastline. It’s a four-course lunch, but the dishes are delicate: a bite of beef tataki; a single slowroasted tomato with goat cheese, swimming in a shallow bowl of soup. As I marvel at the calm, blue water, I realize that I’ve been eating all day but have never felt too full. The best way to eat on a cruise, I decide, is to treat it like a tasting menu—one small, perfect bite at a time.

Tomato fondant with goat cheese at Château Eza F E B R U A R Y 2 018  4 9

CRUISE GUIDE health yish

Ships Ahoy More ways to get healthy on the open seas On R E G E N T S E V E N S E AS ’ Wellness cruises, take an endorphin-boosting laughter-therapy class. C E L E B R I T Y ’s Mindful Dreams treatments combine massage with guided meditation. Go zip-lining in Nicaragua on a South American C RYS TA L cruise. You may be surrounded by ocean water on most cruises, but the thalassotherapy (a fancy word for salt water) pools on C A R N I VA L ’s ships let it really soak in. At P R I N C E SS C R U I S E S ’ Lotus Spa, visit the resident “mixologist” for salt and sugar scrubs custom-infused with herbs.

I T A LY DAY 4  T U S C A N Y

Our farmhouse lunch in Lucca is canceled because a comics festival has brought a million costumed superfans to the town. Part of me—a very small part— wants to witness furry suits romping through vineyards. Instead, after a delicate buckwheat pancake in the Riviera’s Grand Dining Room, we decide to go it alone. The cruise concierge is happy to help us rent a little Fiat, which we drive down the coast to Bolgheri, a weekend retreat for people with much, much nicer cars. We find Ristorante da Ugo in nearby Castagneto Carducci. We walk in, and a man who was dozing just outside the door ambles in behind us: He’s the owner. In the kitchen, three women make us lunch. Between glorious bites of wild boar pappardelle and contorni of deeply roasted onions, carrots, and peppers, José and I laugh at the fact that we’re supposedly on a health cruise. We’ve come to see the boat as a floating hotel, a jumping-off point to adventures on land, ready with a massage and dinner when we return. DAY 5  R O M E

5 0  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Clockwise from top: Anxiety floats away at the Terme dei Papi (baths of the Popes); the Riviera at sunset off the coast of Monte Carlo; the steep streets of Castagneto Carducci in Tuscany

at the steakhouse turns out to involve excellent skewered shrimp. For dessert, I drink a whiskey on the rocks while we play board games in the library. The Riviera feels like home. DAY 6  PA L E R M O

Have I found wellness on my cruise? Absolutely, and off it too. I haven’t looked at the news in a week; I’ve barely used the internet aside from bragging about my trip on Instagram. I decide to seal in all the good vibes with something called a “naturally nourishing ritual”—a six-part treatment based on Finnish traditions. Liezel

She exfoliates me with peat enzymes and arctic cloudberries, covers me in mushroom lotion, then wraps me in a sheet. I feel both ridiculous and glorious.

welcomes me back to the spa. She cleanses my skin with organic milk, exfoliates me with peat enzymes and arctic cloudberries, covers me in mushroom lotion, then wraps me in a sheet and leaves me to marinate. I feel both ridiculous and glorious. After I shower, she spritzes some kind of high-oxygen water on me before going in for one more crack at the spot on my back. It hurts like hell but in an Exorcist-y way. When it’s over, I feel reborn. That night, in our Palermo hotel, I close my eyes and still feel the boat rocking. We have an early flight in the morning. We sleep through our alarms.

FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

José, who scrambles his eggs in a quarter stick of butter at home, has discovered that he loves egg-white-and-spinach omelets: He’s eaten one every day. I’ve taken a liking to the cashew chia pudding at Waves Grill, the onboard juice bar. Today we split up—I’m taking a guided excursion to thermal baths north of Rome. Like most things around here, the baths are ancient: Michelangelo was a patron; so was Dante. I sit in a 140-degree grotto, then I float in a giant pool with a hundred people speaking a language I don’t understand. It’s bliss. Back on the boat, I realize for the first time that I feel truly at ease. Before dinner, I get a facial in which oxygen is literally blasted into my pores, and I take a run around the track at sunset. What I expect to be a gut-busting meal

Memories are made around meals. The Savor card makes them more rewarding. SM

Earn 3% cash back on dining / 2% on groceries / 1% on all other purchases

āĪĝĜġĬ ęĨĨĪħĮęĤ ĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜ čǉ ĝĪĝĜ Ěı āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ ĀęĦģ ÕēđÿÖ Č ÿ ƣ ! & āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ

You probably forgot what you ate. But you remember everything else.

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54

Salads for breakfast, eggs for lunch, and nut butter on toast anytime: The A L L  DAY C A F É  M E N U ethos captures how we want to cook right now

SALAD FOR B R E A K FA S T P. 6 3

Recipes by C H R I S M O R O C C O ï&#x161;¼ Photographs by A L E X L AU

ll-day breakfast used

Across the country, jammy eggs,

to make me think of

thick-cut toast, and alt-grain waffles

greasy diner hangover

dot menus no matter the hour. This

fare. But these days some

style of eating inspires

of my favorite restaurants

the way we all cook at

are redefining the most important meal of the day and serving it morning,

T H E ST R AT E GY

Toast 2.0 Get inspired by these fruit-forward tartines around the country.

noon, and night—with no The Harbinger

fries in sight. Take the

Spiced pears + peanut butter + sunflower seeds

market-café two

Charleston, SC

Botanica:

poached

gems,

all-day standbys, the ing and then crave days after we leave. They’re fortifying, unfussy, and delicious. I’m not sug-

P.Y.T. L.A.

Persimmons + ricotta + mint

olive-oil-toasted focaccia, and savory yogurt

pes are our takes on the ones we can’t stop order-

under-salted, soggy home Turkish eggs at L.A.’s airy

home too. These six reci-

gesting everyone give up their daily bowl of

Tartine Manufactory

granola

and

Greek

all buried under a cloud

San Francisco

yogurt for smoked fish

of lemony salad greens.

Roasted strawberries + farmer’s cheese + bee pollen

and rice spreads, though

I had it for breakfast and would’ve had it again for lunch. Or consider the arctic char tostada at sleek

many of the recipes Muchacho Atlanta

Plum preserves + almond-sunflower butter + chia seeds

Mexican-inspired

have elements you can make ahead. Instead, turn

these

when

you have a chance to

Atla in NYC, which tastes just as

slow down and treat yourself—

good with a smoky mezcal cocktail

whatever time that happens to be.

as a house-made coconut milk latte.

 AMANDA SHAPIRO 56

MANGO TOAST WITH HAZELNUTï&#x161;º P E P I TA B U T T E R P. 6 3

TURMERIC EGGS W I T H K A L E , YO G U R T, AND BACON P. 6 0

RICE BOWLS WITH SMOKED FISH P. 6 0

Rice Bowls with Smoked Fish 4 S E RV I N G S

Whether it’s part of a Japanese breakfast or a classic bagel spread, smoked fish is never a bad idea.

To serve, assemble smoked salmon, rice, roe, furikake, pickled ginger, scallion jam, pickles, and yogurt sauce in bowls as desired. Use all the components, or skip the ones you don’t want!

S C A L L I O N JA M

1 bunch scallions, chopped 1 ½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 tsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt SW E E T  A N D  S O U R P I C K L E S

¼ 3 1 2 1

cup unseasoned rice vinegar Tbsp. sugar tsp. kosher salt, plus more Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced 4" piece daikon, peeled, thinly sliced 4 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced YO G U RT S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY

1 4" piece daikon, peeled, coarsely grated 1 cup plain Greek yogurt 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt Hot-smoked salmon or whitefish, cooked rice, salmon or trout roe, furikake or toasted sesame seeds, and/or pickled ginger (for serving) S C A L L I O N JA M Mix scallions, ginger, oil, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame seeds, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl to combine; season with salt. SW E E T  A N D  S O U R P I C K L E S Stir vinegar, sugar, 1 tsp. salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a medium bowl; set aside. Combine cucumbers, daikon, and radishes in another medium bowl. Season with salt and massage, squeezing out liquid, until softened; drain. Add vegetables to reserved brine and chill at least 10 minutes before eating. D O A H E A D : Vegetables can be pickled 2 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled. YO G U RT S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY

Using your hands, gather up and squeeze as much liquid as possible from daikon. Transfer to a small bowl and add yogurt and lemon juice. Mix well; season yogurt sauce with salt.

Gluten-Free Chocolate and Buckwheat Waffles 8 S E RV I N G S If you want to make these without buttermilk, substitute 2 cups altmilk plus 2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar.

(it should cover the entire surface; amount needed will vary according to model) and cook waffles until you smell a blast of chocolaty aroma hit you and edges are slightly darkened, around 3 minutes per batch. Remove carefully from waffle iron. Without gluten, waffles will be extra tender. Serve waffles topped with whipped ricotta, crumble, and maple syrup.

Turmeric Eggs with Kale, Yogurt, and Bacon

TOPPINGS

¼ cup mixed buckwheat groats, black or white sesame seeds, and/or flaxseeds 2 tsp. plus 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup Pinch of kosher salt 1 cup whole-milk ricotta WA F F L E S A N D ASS E M B LY

1 cup buckwheat flour ½ cup Dutch-process unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ cup flaxseed meal 1¼ tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 2 large eggs, room temperature 2 cups buttermilk ½ cup virgin coconut oil, melted ¼ cup (packed) dark brown sugar 2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped Nonstick vegetable oil spray Pure maple syrup (for serving) T O P P I N G S Preheat oven to 300°. Toss buckwheat, 2 tsp. maple syrup, and salt on a rimmed baking sheet until evenly coated. Bake until dry to the touch and toasty smelling, 12–15 minutes. Stir to recoat and transfer to a sheet of parchment paper. Let crumble cool. Whisk ricotta and remaining 2 Tbsp. maple syrup in a small bowl until smooth. WA F F L E S A N D ASS E M B LY Heat a waffle iron on medium. Whisk buckwheat flour, cocoa powder, flaxseed meal, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in a large bowl to combine. Whisk eggs, buttermilk, coconut oil, brown sugar, and vanilla in a medium bowl until smooth. Add to dry ingredients and whisk until smooth; mix in chocolate. Lightly coat waffle iron with nonstick spray. Scoop batter onto waffle iron

60

4 S E RV I N G S Breakfast bowls shouldn’t take 2 hours to make; this one is ready in about 20 minutes. Add roasted sweet potato or cooked grains to make it even more hearty.

4 slices bacon 1 bunch curly kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn into large pieces 5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt 1 cup plain Greek yogurt 4 large eggs ½ tsp. ground turmeric Urfa pepper or other mild red pepper flakes and lime wedges (for serving) Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 375°. Bake bacon on a foillined rimmed baking sheet until brown and crisp, 12–15 minutes. Tear into large pieces; reserve fat for another use. Meanwhile, spread out kale on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 Tbsp. oil. Massage leaves with oil and season with salt. Bake, tossing halfway through, until lightly browned around edges and crisp-tender, 5–7 minutes. Season yogurt with salt. Divide among plates and top with bacon and kale. Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add eggs one at a time, shaking skillet between additions to keep them from sticking together. Cook, tilting skillet toward you and spooning oil over egg whites until whites are set, about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat, keeping skillet tilted, and add turmeric to oil. Baste egg whites with turmeric oil. Divide eggs among plates and drizzle turmeric oil over. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes and squeeze limes over.

GLUTENï&#x161;ºFREE CHOCOL ATE AND B U C K W H E AT WA F F L E S

T H E ST R AT E GY

Always Be Sprinkling What is it with health-minded chefs showering everything from a steamy latte to a crispy waffle with unexpected toppings?

HEMP MILK CHAI

waffles and toast

breakfast bowls

lattes and porridge

Sesame seeds Hemp seeds Crushed peanuts Coconut flakes Bee pollen

Sumac

Ground cardamom Unsweetened cocoa powder

Za â&#x20AC;&#x2122;atar Crushed red pepper flakes Nutritional yeast

Chlorella powder Reishi powder

Salad for Breakfast 4 S E RV I N G S

Eggs on toast goes veggie-centric with quick-pickled veg and marinated feta. Everything except the croutons can be made ahead, and any weekday can start off this colorful. 4 1 1 1 ½ 2 ¼ 8 ¼ 4

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CAMILO HUINCA. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

large eggs tsp. kosher salt, plus more Tbsp. sugar tsp. ground turmeric cup plus 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar cups chopped crunchy vegetables (such as cucumbers and radishes) sweet onion, very thinly sliced oz. feta, cut into thick slices cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling slices sourdough bread, toasted, cooled cups lettuce leaves, torn if large Ground sumac (for serving)

Gently lower eggs into a medium saucepan of boiling salted water and cook 6½ minutes. Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water with a slotted spoon and let cool until just warm. Peel and set aside. Meanwhile, whisk sugar, turmeric, ½ cup vinegar, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ cup water in a medium bowl. Add vegetables and sweet onion and let sit until slightly softened and pickled; ideally you want these to sit at least 1 hour, but if you are short on time, 10 minutes and massaging gently to soften a bit will get the job done. Place feta in a small bowl and drizzle with ¼ cup oil and remaining 2 Tbsp. vinegar. Let sit at least 5 minutes. Drizzle toast with oil and tear into large pieces. Place in a large bowl with lettuce. Drain pickled vegetables and add to bowl. Drizzle marinating liquid from feta over, season with salt, and toss well. Cut eggs into quarters. Divide salad among plates; top with eggs and marinated feta and sprinkle with sumac. D O A H E A D : Eggs can be made and vegetables can be pickled 4 days ahead; cover and chill. Feta can be marinated 1 week ahead; cover and chill.

1 cup blanched hazelnuts 1 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas) Kosher salt ¼ cup freeze-dried blueberries 2 tsp. mild red pepper flakes (such as Aleppo-style or Urfa pepper) 4 slices sourdough bread, toasted 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 large ripe mangoes, peeled, sliced Honey (for serving) Flaky sea salt S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A spice mill or

4 S E RV I N G S Savory fruit toast is the new avocado toast. Other combinations we’re crushing on: lemony yogurt with cucumbers, almond butter and pears.

H E M P M I L K Purée hemp seeds and 3 cups cold water in a blender until very smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve (a sheet of cheesecloth or nut-milk bag also work) into an airtight container. D O A H E A D : Hemp milk can be made 5 days ahead. Cover and chill. S U P E R D U S T Mix together chlorella, reishi, and cardamom in a small bowl.

mortar and pestle Preheat oven to 300°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 20–25 minutes. Meanwhile, toast pumpkin seeds on a separate baking sheet, tossing once, until just beginning to brown in a few spots and very fragrant, 14–16 minutes. Let hazelnuts and pumpkin seeds cool. Purée in a food processor until a smooth paste forms (this will take several minutes and you will need to scrape down sides a few times.) Taste and season hazelnut– pumpkin seed butter with kosher salt. Finely grind blueberries, red pepper flakes, and a pinch of kosher salt in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Drizzle toast with 2 Tbsp. oil and spread 2 Tbsp. hazelnut–pumpkin seed butter over each. Top with mango; drizzle with honey and oil. Sprinkle with blueberry–red pepper mixture and sea salt.

Hemp Milk Chai 4 S E RV I N G S Hemp milk makes the fastest, creamiest alt-milk with very little waste, but any nondairy milk works. HEMP MILK

½ cup hemp seeds SUPERDUST (OPTIONAL)

2 tsp. chlorella powder 1 tsp. reishi or cordyceps powder ¼ tsp. ground cardamom C H A I A N D ASS E M B LY

Mango Toast with Hazelnut-Pepita Butter

I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Chlorella and reishi powders are available at health foods stores and online.

2 3" cinnamon sticks 1 ½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 16 cardamom pods Very small pinch of kosher salt 4 bags strong black tea 3 Tbsp. pure maple syrup

63

C H A I A N D ASS E M B LY Bring cinnamon sticks, ginger, cardamom pods, salt, and 2 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until very fragrant, 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat; add tea. Cover and let sit 5 minutes. Strain chai mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan. Add maple syrup and 2 cups hemp milk (save the rest for another use); cook over medium heat, whisking if milk separates, just until hot. Divide among mugs; top with superdust.

S h o p Th i s Story Another thing we dig about cafés: all the beautifully crafted vessels. We featured plates, cups, and bowls from five ceramists in this story. Snag one for yourself.

Helen Levi Ceramics helenlevi.com pp. 55, 58, 61

Felt + Fat feltandfat.com p. 59

Shino Takeda Ceramic shinotakeda.com pp. 57, 58, 59, 62

Pauline Wolstencroft paulinewolstencroft.com p. 61

Sandra Jávera sandrajavera.com p. 59

Turmeric-stained eggs taste better surrounded by lush greenery.

Photograph by A L E X L AU

PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI

Get the laid-back café vibe with these ST Y L I S H P L A N T E R S

1—Raw terracotta planter, $1,200; bzippy andcompany.com 2—Spadone Home deco vessel, $190; comingsoon newyork.com 3—Painted design planter, $68; omceramic.com 4—Porcelain and steel planter, $450; www.andrew molleur.com 5—Medium beach planter, $110; helenlevi.com 6—Spadone Home Miami Motel vessel, $220; comingsoon newyork.com 7—Chen & Kai horned melon planter, $24; home -coming.com 8—Block planter, $68; www.andrew molleur.com

9—Raw curve planter, $42; rachelsaunders ceramics.com 10—Archromo planter and tray, $70; lightand ladder.com 11—Large geometric concrete planter, $25; www.anson designco.com 12—Umbra pleated shift self-watering earthenware pot planter, $60; wayfair.com

By AS H L E Y M AS O N

7 12

65

6ï&#x161;º6

Photographs by A L E X L AU

The shower of herbs. The dollop of yogurt. The swipe of harissa. These signatures of Middle Eastern food have been embraced by health-minded chefs—and deserve a spot in your kitchen too. BA’s A N DY B A R AG H A N I shows us how the food he grew up on shapes the way he cooks today

CITRUS AND AV O C A D O SALAD WITH O R A N G E WAT E R P. 74

67

H O T  P I N K P E A R L O N I O N P I C K L E S P. 74

efore working at a food magazine or a restaurant, I gained a deep love of food from my family. As a kid I was introduced to the bright flavors of my parents’ home country of Iran. I remember watching my mother steep saffron until the water turned the color of the sun or how she would put a mound of herbs on the table for us to nibble on. But it wasn’t until the last five years that I reconnected with my culinary roots in earnest. I’ve deepened my knowledge of the flavors I grew up with through fellow cooks and travel abroad. And though I love what might be referred to as “traditional” Middle Eastern foods, I’ve never wanted to replicate those dishes. Instead I’ve used them to cultivate my own cooking style. This story is not a representation of Middle Eastern food as a whole but rather a guide to the techniques and ingredients that influence me and a reflection on how I use them. I hope you feel empowered to adapt these fundamentals to the way you cook too.

Use Pickles for Punch

Every September my home filled with the sharp smell of vinegar. My father and his parents would turn summer’s produce into an array of various colored pickles—torshi, as we say in Farsi. My father’s pickles were aggressively tangy from the vinegar, a touch salty, and packed a good amount of funk and sometimes a vibrant fuchsia color thanks to a sliver of red beet in the brine. There’s nothing quiet about my dad’s pickles. Or mine (this is my riff on his onion recipe), which is why they’ll wake up whatever you serve them with, whether that’s rich meats or salads.

Go Savor y, Not Sweet, with Orange Water

I may be the only person in my family who doesn’t love classic Middle Eastern orange-flower and rose water desserts, but I do love the floral essence in savory dishes. Infused with orange blossoms or Damascus rose petals, the best brands are delicate and should remind you of fresh flowers rather than potpourri (I like Mymouné). Add a splash to give depth to braises (it’s insane with lamb), transform a gin and tonic, or highlight the floral notes in the simple citrus salad on the previous page.

68

You Should Be Blooming Your Spices

Sizzle

I still think of my mother’s near daily ritual of warming spices in barely shimmering oil. Just as toasting whole spices in a dry pan helps them release their natural oils, toasting ground spices in fat until they become very fragrant allows their flavors to be fully extracted. Try this trick with turmeric as an early step in curries, stews, or braises. Do it with dried mint, shown here, before stirring it into a yogurt dip. Toast a little za’atar in olive oil before spreading on some chewy flatbread. It’s such a simple step, but it’s too often skipped.

Dip Use bloomed mint in S P I N AC H YO G U R T DIP WITH SIZZLED MINT P. 74

Use pomegranate molasses in POMEGRANATEï&#x161;º GLAZED CHICKEN WITH BUT TERY PINE NUTS P. 74

Harness the Power of Sour

Fresh limes that have been boiled in a salt brine then sundried until hard. Pierce the fruit a few times and add it to braises or stews for a musky, slightly fermented flavor.

Pomegranate molasses Pomegranate juice reduced to a thick, sweet-tart syrup. Use it in place of citrus juice or vinegar in salad dressings, or treat it as a glaze on meats before grilling.

Enjoy! C H A R R E D S W E E T P O T A T O E S W I T H T O U M P. 75

Dried limes

I like these small berries in crunchy salads (plump them in water first) or atop roast chicken (warm them in melted butter and sugar to mellow). Raisins or dried sour cherries are acceptable, if less tingly, substitutes.

Barberries

T H E TA R T PA N T RY

Swoosh

I learned early on to love ingredients that make you pucker. Acids like pomegranate juice (see below for more) can balance the sweet, the salty, and the rich, and they can invigorate your taste buds so they don’t grow fatigued.

Yo u Already Love Toum, Yo u J u s t Don ’t Know It

I’m embarrassed to admit that for years I thought the addictive white sauce slicked onto my chicken shawarma was just yogurt. In fact, it’s toum, a magical emulsion of garlic, lemon, oil, and water. Its texture is lighter than mayo, and its garlic kick is no joke. Pair it with things that can stand up to it, like grilled meats or crispy potatoes.

Sumac The brick-red finely ground berries of the sumac shrub give an astringent, lemony brightness to whatever they touch. A sprinkle wakes up the simplest ingredients: steamed rice, fatty meats, or stone fruit.

T H E PA N T RY Can’t Find These Ingredients? Seek out a local Middle Eastern grocer (duh), or check out the wonderful online superstore kalustyans.com.

71

a Cr

Yu m

C R U N C H Y B A K E D S A F F R O N R I C E W I T H B A R B E R R I E S P. 75

Saffron Makes Everything Better

Saffron is the stuff of legend—literally. But no matter how many tales have been told about the spice, a lot of us still don’t know what to do with it or whether it’s worth the high cost. As an Iranian, I’m admittedly biased, but when it’s good, saffron simply can’t be compared with anything else. (Does this stunning crispy rice convince you?)

SAFFRON D E MYST I F I E D

Why so pricey? Saffron comes from a fickle flower that produces only three threads (stigmas). The flowers bloom one week a year and must be harvested— by hand!—in the midmorning. It takes about 1,000 flowers to produce just one ounce of saffron. That’s why you’ll pay from $10 to $13 per gram for the real deal. To make sure you’re getting the

Put a Dollop on It Fact: There are few things that can’t be improved by a spoonful of yogurt. It provides heft and richness to lean dishes and brightness to heavier ones.

best stuff, take a sniff—you want saffron that smells a bit like sweet hay. It should also have all red stigmas, no yellow stamens.

Then add ¼ cup warm water and let cool. This is the vibrant elixir to use in your paella, buttery saffron rice, or risotto.

What should I do with it?

How do I store it?

Grind 2 tsp. saffron threads, along with a sugar cube or pinch of coarse salt, to a powder with a mortar and pestle or a spice mill to draw out the most flavor and color.

Keep threads in a cool, dry, dark place (I put mine in the freezer for up to a year). Saffron water can be stored in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks.

72

Spice Mixes A r e t h e W o r l d ’s Best Shor tcut

Walk around a Middle Eastern street market and you’ll notice intoxicating spice mixes that can enliven a dish, like weeknight fish, with just a teaspoon or two.

Dukkah

THREE MIXES WORTH BUYING

Dukkah The Egyptian condiment is a mix of nuts, seeds, and spices that get crushed to small bits. It can deliver texture to popcorn, dips, and salads.

Advieh Usually consists of cinnamon, cardamom, rose, clove, and sometimes mace and nutmeg. It’s nice sprinkled on lamb or chicken before braising.

Baharat Typically made with paprika, black pepper, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, and cardamom. Season steaks before grilling, or toss through root veg before roasting. Baharat Use baharat in SPICED SNAPPER WITH CUCUMBER S A L A D P. 75

Spinach-Yogurt Dip with Sizzled Mint 4 S E RV I N G S Our version of this dip (called borani in Iran) uses spinach, but it can be made with cooked beets or roasted eggplant, too.

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cup walnuts oz. baby spinach (about 10 cups) Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided small onion, finely chopped garlic cloves, thinly sliced Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. dried mint 3 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on a baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Let cool; finely crush with the side of a chef’s knife. Place a medium skillet over medium heat and add ½ cup water. As soon as you see bubbles, add one-third of the spinach and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the spinach is wilted, then add more. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all the spinach is in the pan and wilted, 6–8 minutes. Transfer spinach to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and lock in its bright green color. Drain and squeeze out excess liquid. Finely chop spinach and set aside. Wipe out skillet and heat 2 Tbsp. oil over medium. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until soft but without taking on any color, 6–8 minutes. Add garlic and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is softened, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Heat remaining 4 Tbsp. oil in a small skillet over medium. Once oil begins to shimmer, remove from heat and stir in dried mint. The oil will sizzle immediately and the mint will become fragrant. Transfer to a small bowl; season with salt. Combine yogurt, lemon juice, onion mixture, half of the walnuts, and reserved spinach in a medium bowl. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Scrape into a shallow serving bowl and use the back of a spoon to carve a few swirls into the dip. Top with remaining walnuts and spoon sizzled mint oil over.

Hot-Pink Pearl Onion Pickles 4 S E RV I N G S These sweet and very tangy neon pickles pair best with grilled meats, stews, and braises.

1½ 1 2 2 2 1 8 ½

cups white wine vinegar Tbsp. sugar tsp. coriander seeds tsp. dried tarragon tsp. kosher salt tsp. dried mint oz. pearl onions, peeled, halved small beet, peeled, halved

Bring vinegar, sugar, coriander seeds, tarragon, salt, and mint to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Reduce heat to a simmer and add onions and beet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions soften slightly, about 3 minutes. Pluck out and discard beet (the onions will continue to take on color as they sit). Transfer onions and brine to a 1-qt. jar or a nonreactive container and let cool. Cover and chill at least 2 hours before serving. The flavor will mellow as it sits. D O A H E A D : Onions can be pickled 3 weeks ahead. Keep chilled.

Citrus and Avocado Salad with Orange Water 4 S E RV I N G S Salting the citrus draws out some of the juice, which becomes part of the vinaigrette.

2½ lb. mixed citrus (such as oranges, blood oranges, and/or grapefruit) ½ cup kumquats, thinly sliced, seeds removed (optional) 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. orange-flower or rose water Large pinch of kosher salt 1 avocado, cut into large pieces 3 Tbsp. salted or unsalted, roasted pistachios, finely crushed 3 Tbsp. tarragon leaves Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) Using a paring knife, remove peel and white pith from citrus, being careful not to remove too much of the flesh. Slice citrus into ½"-thick rounds, then cut into 1½" pieces (it looks cool and is less fussy if pieces aren’t too exact in shape and size). Transfer to a medium bowl and add kumquats, if using, lemon juice, orangeflower water, and salt. Toss and let sit 5 minutes so citrus can release some of their juices. Transfer citrus, leaving juice behind, to a large plate. Tuck avocado in between and around citrus. Spoon citrus juice over salad, scatter pistachios and tarragon over, and drizzle with oil.

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Pomegranate-Glazed Chicken with Buttery Pine Nuts 4 S E RV I N G S The yogurt in the marinade, along with the honey and pomegranate molasses in the glaze, will give the chicken lots of color. Go with it. The very dark charred parts are extra tasty.

4 garlic cloves, finely grated ¼ cup plain whole-milk yogurt (not Greek) ⅓ cup plus 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses 4 Tbsp. honey, divided 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 3½–4-lb. chicken, backbone removed, halved Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling) 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter ¼ cup pine nuts or blanched slivered almonds 1½ cups pomegranate juice, room temperature 1 lime, halved Combine garlic, yogurt, ⅓ cup pomegranate molasses, 2 Tbsp. honey, and 2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 3½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large resealable plastic bag. Place chicken in bag and seal, pressing out any air; turn to coat. Chill, turning occasionally, at least 12 hours and up to 2 days. Let chicken sit at room temperature 1 hour before cooking. Place a rack in top position of oven; preheat to 450°. Stir remaining 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses and remaining 2 Tbsp. honey in a small bowl. Drizzle enough oil to barely coat the bottom of a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, that can hold both chicken halves (or you can roast chicken on a foillined rimmed baking sheet). Remove chicken from marinade, letting excess drip back into bag, and place in skillet, skin side up. Pat chicken dry with paper towels; season lightly with salt. Brush or spoon pomegranate molasses mixture evenly over skin. Roast chicken until skin is lacquered and deep mahogany over most of surface and juices run clear when thigh meat is pierced with a knife, 25–30 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 15 minutes. Meanwhile, melt butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Cook pine nuts, tossing often, until golden and mixture smells nutty (don’t let the butter burn), about 3 minutes. Scrape buttery

pine nuts into a small bowl and season with salt. Pour pomegranate juice into a large bowl or shallow platter and squeeze in lime. Season with a large pinch of salt and stir to dissolve. Add chicken to bowl (or divide between 2 shallow bowls) and spoon buttery pine nuts over to serve.

Charred Sweet Potatoes with Toum 4 S E RV I N G S This recipe is nice twice. The roasting and honey-glazing method is a great way to make sweet potatoes, and you also get an eggless garlic sauce that you’ll use again and again.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CAMILO HUINCA (ORANGE FLOWER, SAFFRON).

1 cup grapeseed or vegetable oil ⅓ cup garlic cloves (6–8) 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt 8 small sweet potatoes (about 1½ lb.), scrubbed 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided 2 Tbsp. honey 2 tsp. nigella seeds (optional) Flaky sea salt Nigella seeds can be found at Middle Eastern and Indian markets and online. INGREDIENT INFO:

Chill oil in freezer 30 minutes (this helps the sauce emulsify). Pulse garlic in a blender with lemon juice, ¼ cup cold oil, and 1 Tbsp. ice water until smooth. With motor running, very gradually and steadily stream in ½ cup oil (you don’t want to risk having the emulsion split). Scrape down sides and continue to blend, slowly adding remaining ¼ cup oil, until a slightly thick sauce forms (it should cling to a spoon). Add 1 more Tbsp. ice water, season with kosher salt, and pulse again to combine. This whole process will occupy 8–10 minutes. Take your time! Transfer toum to a medium bowl. Place a rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 400°. Place sweet potatoes in a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron. The pan should be large enough so that sweet potatoes cover only half of the pan. Pour in just enough water to barely coat bottom of pan. Cover tightly with foil and bake sweet potatoes until tender, 30–35 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let cool; reserve skillet. Slice sweet potatoes in half lengthwise. Return reserved skillet to rack and heat 20 minutes. Remove skillet from oven and

swirl 2 Tbsp. butter around in pan to coat. Add sweet potatoes, cut side down, and roast until edges are browned underneath and crisp, 18–25 minutes. Spoon some toum on a plate or in shallow bowl and arrange sweet potatoes on top (save extra toum for another use). Stir remaining 2 Tbsp. butter and honey in skillet and place over medium heat to warm. Drizzle honey butter over sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with nigella seeds, if using, and sea salt.

Crunchy Baked Saffron Rice with Barberries 4 S E RV I N G S If you don’t rinse the rice, it will be gummy. If you don’t parboil the rice, it’ll be dry and tough when it comes out of the oven. If you don’t use yogurt, eggs, and oil, it will never get golden and crisp. Now you know!

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tsp. kosher salt, plus more cups basmati rice Tbsp. unsalted butter cup dried barberries or 1 cup dried tart cherries tsp. rose water (optional) tsp. saffron threads, finely ground large egg yolks cup plain whole-milk yogurt (not Greek) cup grapeseed or vegetable oil, plus more for dish

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 2 large palmfuls of salt (about ½ cup). While you’re waiting for the water to boil, place rice in a strainer or sieve and rinse with lukewarm water, swishing rice around with your hands to get rid of excess starch. Continue to rinse until water from rice runs clear. Add rice to pot and give it a few stirs to prevent rice from sticking to the bottom. Cook, stirring occasionally, until rice begins to rise to the top and is tender but still has a slight bite to it, 6–8 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Cook barberries, stirring often, until plumped slightly and warmed through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in rose water, if using. Place rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 400°. Combine saffron and 2 Tbsp. hot water in a large bowl. Let sit 10 minutes to allow saffron to steep and draw out as much color as possible. Mix in egg yolks, yogurt, ½ cup oil,

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and 2 tsp. salt. Scatter rice over yogurt mixture and gently toss to ensure every grain is coated. Coat a 10"-diameter glass pie dish with oil (glass lets you check on the color from underneath). Add half of rice mixture and use the palms of your hands or a measuring cup to gently pack and compact rice into dish. Scatter half of barberries over and top with remaining rice. Press down again, this time more firmly (this helps with unmolding). Cover dish tightly with foil and bake until rice on the bottom and around edges is a deep golden brown, 65–80 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes; discard foil. Loosen the rice around the edges using the point of a knife. Place a large plate on top and invert rice onto plate like a cake. Scatter remaining barberries over top.

Spiced Snapper with Cucumber Salad 4 S E RV I N G S Roasting fish fillets that have been oiled and seasoned is a fail-safe, hands-off technique with big flavor payoff.

2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 tsp. baharat or ras-el-hanout 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 6-oz. skin-on, boneless red snapper fillets Kosher salt 1 lemon, halved 3 medium Persian cucumbers, peeled, sliced ¼" thick 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced into rings, rinsed, patted dry 1 cup cilantro with tender stems Preheat oven to 425°. Mix garlic, baharat, and 6 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl. Place fish on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and pat dry. Rub both sides of fish with garlic-spice oil; season with salt. Turn skin side up and bake until fish is tender and cooked through and skin is beginning to brown, 8–10 minutes. Finely grate zest from a lemon half over each fillet as soon as you remove fish from the oven. Squeeze juice from a lemon half into a medium bowl. Add cucumbers, shallot, and cilantro, season with salt, and toss to combine. Slide fish onto a platter; top with cucumber salad and squeeze juice from remaining lemon half over. Drizzle with olive oil.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

Recipe by CHRIS MOROCCO Photograph by ALEX L AU

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Gluten-Free ChocolateTahini Brownies M A K E S 16 David Lebovitz’s timeless brownies inspired our own take with a modern sweet tahini swirl.

3 Tbsp. cornstarch 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder 6 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 3 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil 4 Tbsp. tahini, divided 2 large eggs ⅓ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 Tbsp. light agave nectar

Preheat oven to 350°. Line an 8x8" baking dish with 2 overlapping pieces of parchment, leaving overhang. Whisk cornstarch and cocoa in a bowl until no lumps remain. Heat chocolate, oil, and 1 Tbsp. tahini in a small saucepan over low, stirring, until melted and smooth, about 1 minute; remove from heat. Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat eggs and both sugars in a large bowl until light, smooth, and doubled in volume, about 4 minutes. Reduce speed to medium and beat in salt and vanilla. Scrape in chocolate mixture and beat to incorporate; beat in cornstarch mixture. Increase speed to medium-high and mix until batter is thick and stiff, about 1 minute. Scrape into prepared baking dish and smooth top. Stir agave nectar into remaining 3 Tbsp. tahini in a small bowl. Dollop spoonfuls over batter in 5 or 6 spots; drag a skewer or toothpick through to swirl. Bake brownies until edges are puffed, top is browned, and a tester inserted into the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, 22–26 minutes. Let cool. Remove from pan; cut into squares. D O A H E A D : Brownies can be baked 3 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

Deeply F U D GY B R O W N I E S ribboned with tahini are officially a thing. Time to make waves with our new classic recipe

It feels like every major city now has an airy, stylish, veg-centric, natural wine–pouring café…that’s most likely run by women. How did this become the I C O N I C R E STAU R A N T G E N R E of 2018?

GUTTER

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PHOTOGRAPH GUTTER BY BRANDON HARMAN

The midday scene at Kismet in L.A.

by C H R I ST I N E M U H L K E

By 9:04 a.m. I’m meeting over a bowl of chili-turmeric broth with oat-milk foam (yes, that’s a thing) at De Maria in New York’s Soho. Around us there are postyoga friend dates and laptoppers and a few more two-tops over which hover word bubbles filled with “concept” and “brand.” Pretty much everyone stops to photograph their food on the colorful tabletops before taking a bite. By 10:30 a.m., I’m taking another meeting for a project with my food consultancy, this time at the light-filled breakfast-lunchdinner spot L’estudio. I sip a matcha latte served in a ceramic cup that was made in the studio next door and nibble on a slice of zucchini-walnut bread. (I’m describing a real morning in my life, by the way— I couldn’t make this up.) Afterward, I bike up to Noho for a one o’clock, this time at Atla, a sunny corner spot helmed by award-winning chef Daniela SotoInnes, where the brunch menu, with its painterly chia pudding and its fermented pineapple elixir, is served until 4 p.m. If I didn’t have so much actual work to catch up on, I could go back to any of these places after nature had flipped her dimmer switch for a glass of natural wine or a juice-y cocktail. I’d share a few plates of adventurous-hippie food, the chefs finally stretching out after a day of styling grain bowls and topping toasts. And I could have this experience not just in New York or L.A. but also in Nashville or Chicago, Austin or Sioux Falls, just, you know, drinking a turmeric tonic out of a wafer-thin tumbler and admiring succulents in their cast-concrete planters, absorbing all the new tropes under an affirmational neon sign.

The Food

How did we get here? Back in the aughts, being a buzzworthy restaurant meant serving decimating amounts of pork product, fried vegetables, and poutine, consumed with oceans of booze and finished with a shot of Fernet-Branca. It was an international bro-down as American chefs bowed to the likes of St. John’s noseto-tail master Fergus Henderson and Pied de Cochon’s lethal genius Martin Picard. The most exciting things in food were spotting The Smiths’ guitarist while eating April Bloomfield’s Roquefort-topped burger at the Spotted Pig in New York, sharing a plate of chorizo-stuffed baconwrapped dates at Avec in Chicago, and ordering poutine smothered in oxtail gravy at Animal in L.A. As a food writer,

Sara Kramer (left) and Sarah Hymanson of Kismet

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Chicken with curried yogurt at Cafe Roze in Nashville

Catching up at De Maria in NYC

Natural wine and local produce on the shelves at Botanica in L.A.

Morning Mezze with roasted squash hummus at Botanica

I loved the gonzo thrill of these epic food parties, with their loud music, louder chefs, and brazen screw-yous to fine dining (even though many of the chefs came from four-star kitchens). What I didn’t love was how I felt the next morning. Make that day. And then a few shifts occurred in the food world. In L.A., paparazzi snapped athleisured celeb couples sitting down to raw vegan bowls at Café Gratitude, and, well, who doesn’t want to look like that? Lalito chef Gerardo Gonzalez, who grew up in Southern California, channeled menus like Café Gratitude’s when making the kale salad and raw falafel that put El Rey on the all-day map in NYC in 2015. De Maria chef Camille Becerra has always drawn upon her early training at macrobiotic restaurants and a Zen center. In recent years, though, her homages to the Dragon Bowls that she once made at the NYC macro pioneer Angelica Kitchen have really resonated, bringing her attention first at Navy in 2014 and then at Café Henrie before she joined De Maria last year. With her neon swooshes of, say, beet-tahini dressing and jazzy add-ons like turmeric-poached eggs, her fashionable bowls have tapped a nerve in the food world. Meanwhile, coffee bars ascended, driven in part by young Australians, who, along with flat whites, brought with them something called avocado toast. Both are an essential part of their all-day café culture, in which savory-leaning breakfast dishes are often served until late afternoon at such stylish pioneers as Bills in Sydney. That café’s influence can be seen at rising Aussie-owned chainlets like New York’s Two Hands and the alwayscrowded Bluestone Lane coffee shops. Over on the business side, higher rents meant that it made sense for restaurants to be open for more than one service. But more than anything, it’s the people running these restaurants who have made the all-day café what it is. All of the women

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For this is the all-day café, the Venn diagram of America’s current food moment, from the healthy-vibing menu to the curated decor to the need to eat while you work and meet. Part café, part restaurant, part workspace, part community center, this is the fabled “third place” between work and home that so many café owners strive to achieve. In the past, you went to diners or bars, Starbucks or coffee shops with single-origin pourover menus. Now it’s one big happy hashtag, garnished with a watermelon radish—and it’s influencing how we eat, cook, decorate, work, and socialize.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GUTTER LUIS GARCIA (ROZE CAFE); ALEX LAU (DE MARIA); BRANDON HARMAN (BOTANICA)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Chef Camille Becerra in the kitchen at De Maria GUTTER

I interviewed for this story—and women are the driving force behind this movement— could have gone the fancy-tasting-menu route when opening their own places but chose not to. Julia Jaksic, who opened the self-described “somewhat healthy” Cafe Roze in Nashville last year, staged at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, then grew to realize that the intensity of white-tablecloth restaurants wasn’t for her. A job with chef Missy Robbins was a turning point: “She was taking her inspiration from traditional Italian food,” Jaksic said. “I realized I didn’t need to be in big fancy kitchens.” Which brings us to Sqirl. A former fine-dining pastry cook, Jessica Koslow opened the seminal East Hollywood daytime spot in 2012 as a pop-up with G&B Coffee to showcase her line of jams. When she first explored opening a restaurant in postcrash 2010, the economy in her Silver Lake neighborhood wouldn’t have supported a dinner-only spot. Besides, she wanted to open the place she felt was lacking in L.A.: something that combined the all-day cafés she’d experienced while living in Melbourne for a year with the “little cafés that make your neighborhood feel like a community” that she’d loved during a stint in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in 2008. In L.A., “there wasn’t any place to go to feel like you could get some work done and feel like part of a neighborhood.” And there was nowhere making the kind of food she wanted to eat, no matter what her mood. The avocado toast that she wanted to eat was anchored by green garlic crème fraîche and electrified by pickled carrot ribbons and lacto-fermented hot sauce, a turmeric-ginger tonic at the ready. (Koslow had discovered the Ayurvedic brew, known for its anti-inflammatory properties, after hurting her ankle.) Or maybe she was in the mood for a slice of thick-cut toast with jam and ricotta—both

The Culture house-made, of course. Whatever she wanted to eat was soon craved by Angelenos with a schedule flexible enough to allow for standing in line. Those Angelenos were eventually joined by food writers and chefs from around the world, and before you knew it, all anybody wanted was a Sqirl of her (or his) own.

GUTTER

The Style The all-day café is as much an aesthetic as it is a cuisine. The first-wave iterations, which opened a few years ago now, were marked by brass accents, hot-pink neon, and welcome-to-my-house plants. In part, it’s a look that was ushered in by Amy Morris and Anna Polonsky of New York design firm the MP Shift when they slapped together Tilda All Day (now Otway) on a microbudget in 2015. The duo decorated the walls with geometric patterns inspired by painter Sol LeWitt and designed seating arrangements to accommodate meetings, friend dates, and freelancers alike. Tilda led to commissions for further cafés like De Maria and Golda. How soon until the design vibe becomes one pink cliché? That’s a full-time challenge now that the MP Shift has been hired to design all-day spaces like Vibrant in Houston and create the branding for “L.A.–style” café Echo in Paris—the concept of an all-day café in Paris being laughable, considering that the city’s had a lockdown on them since the 1800s. At Kismet, an L.A.–style café that former New York chefs Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson opened in Los Feliz last year, the now-familiar design elements— light wood furniture, desert greenery, cursive pink logo—have been refined. In this case, the neon sign is a subtler dusty quartz. As for the secret to designing a space that looks good at breakfast, lunch, and dinner? “Dimmers,” Morris and Polonsky say in unison.

If all-day cafés share menu and design philosophies that are quietly reshaping the way we eat, cook, and decorate our homes, they share mission statements, too. Behind this moment is a not-yet-cynical desire to be many things to many people, to reflect how they live, to give them a place to feel at home. “For us, it’s about creating a community space as opposed to fulfilling some highbrow creative vision we had,” Kramer said. In this sense, the restaurants meet the demands of the new freelancer economy, in which a lot more people— like myself—have opted out of office jobs, and, therefore, offices. We need a place to eat while we meet, whether that’s at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m. It’s not just about the atmosphere in the dining room; it’s also about what goes on in the kitchen. For Becerra, it was time to cook free of male egos. “I’d always worked in restaurants that were owned by men and had men chefs,” Becerra said. So when she was approached by the women behind De Maria to do something new, she was like, “‘Yeah! Sign me up!’” She wanted it to be a kitchen where other female cooks could learn from her, rather than be intimidated, hazed, or harassed. “When you’re a cook, you’re working in a kitchen ten hours a day,” Becerra said. “All you want for them to have is a good place to spend 70 percent of their life!” These chefs want their restaurants to be places where people can come and have whatever kind of meal they want—rather than have a chef imposing his or her amazingness upon their clientele. “A space that is open all day gives

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more control to the diners; they’re able to use it in a more varied way,” Hymanson said. She’d had that experience the morning we spoke, after someone ripped the bumper off her old Honda. The garage was near all-day favorite Botanica, so she went in and got a hug from the co-owners along with her coffee. “I didn’t have to be performing, which is how I think many people feel when they go into a restaurant that’s open just for dinner,” Hymanson said. “I could just go there and take care of myself.” Just today, I understood what she meant. Exhausted by a crummy cold and hit with the realization that my son had a half day of school, we went to lunch at Nourish Kitchen + Table, Marissa Lippert’s all-day café in the West Village. Choosing from bounteous Ottolenghistyle platters, we sat down to caramelized sweet potatoes with pomegranate molasses, brown rice sautéed with ginger and coconut, and more. The service was so warm, the room so lovely, the food so…nourishing, it’s not an exaggeration to say that I left there restored. On the way out I noticed that Nourish serves natural wine by the glass. I’ve already scheduled back-to-back meetings there next week.

ISP

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IIT

Hearty doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to mean heavy. Warm up this winter with these new-school ST E W S , aromatic C U R R I E S , and flavor-packed S O U PS

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BOWL BY SUSAN MILLER CERAMICS

Recipes by A N DY B A R AG H A N I Photographs by A L E X L AU Collages by J O H N Z A B AWA

THE GREENEST COCONUT CURRY WITH CLAMS AND RICE NOODLES

ALL GREEN ANYTHING The bright color of this curry is thanks to herbs (basil and cilantro) that have been puréed with coconut cream and water. Add this verdant mixture to any clear broth for similar effect.

BOWLS BY FEFOSTUDIO. OPPOSITE: BOWL BY CLAM LAB.

P. 8 8

BITING TONE Stews and braises need acidity for balance. In this dish, lentils get a double dose of tartness from limemarinated red onion and a drizzle of tangy yogurt.

SPICED DAL WITH FLUFFY RICE AND SA LT E D YO G U R T P. 8 8

COOK THE COVER

The Greenest Coconut Curry with Clams and Rice Noodles

Spiced Dal with Fluffy Rice and Salted Yogurt

Crispy Tofu in Shiitake Broth

4 S E RV I N G S Coconut cream is what gives this soup its velvety richness. Otherwise it’d just be green juice and noodles!

4 S E RV I N G S Dal tends to firm as it sits, so make sure to add a splash or so of water if you’re reheating it.

Make a double or triple batch of the dashi and freeze in airtight containers to keep for making savory soups on the fly. ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 12-oz. package firm tofu, drained 3 scallions 12 shiitake mushrooms, rinsed, patted dry 2 4x3" pieces dried kombu 1 3" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt 4 baby bok choy (about 12 oz. total), halved lengthwise 2 medium carrots, peeled, thinly sliced into rounds 1 small radish, trimmed, thinly sliced into rounds Toasted sesame oil (for serving) Stir ¼ cup soy sauce and brown sugar in a medium bowl. Cut tofu into ½"-thick slabs and then into squares. Pat dry with paper towels. Add tofu and toss to coat. Let sit, tossing occasionally, 20 minutes. Meanwhile, remove green tops from scallions and very thinly slice; set aside. Coarsely chop white parts and place in a medium pot. Add mushrooms, kombu, ginger, garlic, and 8 cups water and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Reduce heat to low and cook 10 minutes. Remove from heat; discard kombu. Let dashi sit 20 minutes (this will coax more flavor from aromatics), then fish out and discard scallions, mushrooms, ginger, and garlic. Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high. Cook tofu, working in batches if needed, until golden brown and crisp around edges, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain; season with salt. While tofu is cooking, bring dashi to a boil. Add bok choy and carrots and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add remaining 2 Tbsp. soy sauce; taste and season with more salt if needed. Ladle soup into bowls and add tofu, radishes, and reserved scallion tops; drizzle with sesame oil. D O A H E A D : Dashi can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill, or freeze up to 3 months.

2 serrano chiles, 1 coarsely chopped, 1 thinly sliced 1 3" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 2 lemongrass stalks, bottom third only, tough outer layers removed, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 Tbsp. fish sauce 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 5.4-oz. can coconut cream 3 cups cilantro leaves with tender stems 3 cups basil leaves, plus more for serving 2 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil or vegetable oil 36 littleneck clams (about 4 lb.), scrubbed 8 oz. rice stick noodles ½ lime Kosher salt Purée chopped chile, ginger, lemongrass, garlic, fish sauce, brown sugar, and 3 cups water in a blender until smooth. Transfer curry to a small bowl. Reserve blender (no need to clean). Purée coconut cream, cilantro, 3 cups basil, and ¼ cup ice water in blender until very smooth; set herb purée aside. Heat oil in a large saucepan or small pot over medium-high. Add clams, cover, and cook until clams open, 5–7 minutes. Uncover and transfer opened clams to a medium bowl, reserving cooking liquid in saucepan. If any clams are still closed, cover and cook a few minutes longer, then add to bowl with others; discard any clams that refuse to open. Add curry base to saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes to let flavors meld. Meanwhile, cook noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Divide among bowls. Using a slotted spoon, transfer clams to noodle bowls. Pour any accumulated clam-cooking liquid into curry mixture and stir in herb purée; bring to a boil. Immediately remove from heat and squeeze in juice from lime. Taste and season with salt if needed. Ladle curry over clams and noodles. Top with sliced chile and basil leaves.

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2 Tbsp. ghee, virgin coconut oil, or vegetable oil 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1½ cups yellow split peas, rinsed 2 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground turmeric ½ tsp. ground cardamom Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt 1 lime 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced into rounds, rinsed Pinch of sugar ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt Cooked Jasmine or basmati rice (for serving) Freshly ground black pepper Heat ghee in a medium pot over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned around the edges, 5–7 minutes. Add ginger and garlic and cook, stirring often, just to take the edge off garlic, about 30 seconds. Add ⅓ cup water and simmer, stirring occasionally, until water evaporates, about 1 minute. Add split peas, coriander, turmeric, cardamom, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 4 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until split peas are very tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 12–14 minutes; season with salt. Cover with a lid and keep dal warm over low heat while you make the toppings. Finely grate zest from lime into a small bowl. Cut lime in half and squeeze juice into bowl (you’ll have about 2 Tbsp.). Add red onion, sugar, and a large pinch of salt and toss, squeezing onion with your hands to help it soften quickly. Mix yogurt and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl; season with salt. Serve dal over rice drizzled with salty yogurt and topped with onion and pepper. D O A H E A D : Dal (without yogurt and onion) can be made 1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

BOWL BY A QUESTION OF EAGLES

4 S E RV I N G S

SUPER SOAK Ask any chef: The secret to delicious-tasting beans is infusing the cooking liquid with aromatics like onions and garlic, then seasoning it liberally at the end until itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just shy of salty.

BROTHY BEANS A N D FA R R O WITH EGGS AND MUSHROOMS P. 91

GETTING WA R M E R Cinnamon’s sweet, earthy flavor tames tomatoes’ juicy acidity. Apply this same thinking to other baking spices like nutmeg and cloves.

CHICKEN AND TOMATO STEW WITH CARAMELIZED LEMON

Brothy Beans and Farro with Eggs and Mushrooms 4 S E RV I N G S Stirring a raw egg yolk into each bowl at the end adds silkiness, heft, and protein. But this dish is satisfying without it, too.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY EMILY EISEN. POT BY WORKADAY HANDMADE. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CAMILO HUINCA.

1 small onion, unpeeled, halved 1 medium carrot, peeled 4 garlic cloves, 1 smashed, 3 finely chopped 1½ cups dried gigante, runner, or lima beans, soaked overnight, drained 1 cup farro or spelt, soaked overnight, drained Kosher salt 2 red Fresno chiles, seeds removed, finely chopped ⅓ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary 8 oz. maitake or shiitake mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces 2 tsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 4 large egg yolks, room temperature (optional) Bring onion, carrot, smashed garlic, beans, and 14 cups water to a boil in a medium pot, reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are creamy but still intact, 70–90 minutes (time will vary depending on size and age of beans). Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans to a medium bowl; discard onion, carrot, and garlic. Return broth in pot to a boil and add farro. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until grains are tender, 25–30 minutes. Remove from heat and return beans to pot; season generously with salt. Let sit 15 minutes to infuse beans and grains with flavor. (If you have the time, cook the beans and the grains a day ahead so they can really soak up the broth. If not, no worries—just keep going.) Cook chopped garlic, chiles, and ⅓ cup oil in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring often, until garlic is golden, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and mix in rosemary. Transfer chile-garlic oil to a small bowl; season with salt. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil over medium-high. Cook mushrooms, undisturbed, until browned underneath, about 2 minutes. Toss and continue to cook, tossing every so often, until mushrooms are browned and

crisp in most spots, another 6–8 minutes. Splash vinegar over mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and give skillet a few shakes to combine. Ladle stew into bowls and top each with some crisped mushrooms and an egg yolk (if using); drizzle with chile-garlic oil. Break egg yolk and stir into soup just before eating to give it a more silky consistency. D O A H E A D : Stew (without mushrooms, egg yolks, and chile-garlic oil) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

Chicken and Tomato Stew with Caramelized Lemon 4 S E RV I N G S

Turn to Prep School on page 94 for advice on how to get those lemon pieces perfectly caramelized. 4 chicken legs (thigh and drumstick) Kosher salt 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 large onion, thinly sliced 6 garlic cloves, halved 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. tomato paste ¾ tsp. ground turmeric ½ tsp. ground cinnamon 1 14.5-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 lemon 1½ tsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds ½ cup torn mint Flatbread (for serving) Pat chicken dry and season with salt. Let sit at room temperature at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour ahead (or cover and chill for up to 24 hours). Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Cook chicken, adjusting heat as needed to avoid scorching, until deep golden brown on both sides, 10–12 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate, leaving drippings behind. Add onion to pot and cook, stirring often, until softened, 6–8 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring often until onion begins to brown around the edges, about 3 minutes. Stir in honey, tomato paste, turmeric, and cinnamon and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and juices and smash tomatoes with a wooden spoon until pieces are no larger than 1". Return chicken to pot,

9 1

pour in broth (it should barely cover chicken), and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, mostly cover pot with lid (to allow steam to escape), and gently simmer until chicken is tender and juices thicken, 70–80 minutes. Meanwhile, trim the top and bottom from lemon, perch on a flat end, and cut lengthwise into quarters; remove seeds and white pith in the center. Thinly slice quarters crosswise into quarter-moons. Place in a medium skillet, pour in water to cover, and bring to a boil. Cook 3 minutes, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer to a small bowl; sprinkle with sugar and toss to coat. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil over medium-high. Arrange lemon pieces in a single layer in skillet. Cook, turning halfway through, until deeply browned in most spots, about 3 minutes. Transfer back to bowl and season with salt. Ladle stew into bowls and top with caramelized lemon, sesame seeds, and mint. Serve with flatbread. D O A H E A D : Stew (without mint) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Add mint just before serving.

BEHIND THE LOOK Each of these dishes was photographed on a custom collage created by Chicagobased artist John Zabawa. Associate visuals editor Emily Eisen sent Zabawa reference shots of each dish, then he crafted 17x24-inch paper cutouts to complement them. “ With computer generated images, you lack a certain human quality,” Zabawa says. “Just like with cooking, these cutouts have a level of imperfection.”

Seeds sink to the bottom, while any white membrane bits float to the top.

Tie on an apron before smacking away.

FROM P. 30

THWACK! The gemlike seeds that top our Wheat Berry Bowls with Merguez and Pomegranate add tart-sweet crunch to the rich meat. But how to seed a whole fruit’s worth without having to pick out a kernel at a time? Cut the pomegranate in half through the equator line, then hold it over a bowl of water cut side down. With a wooden spoon, smack the skin assertively and repeatedly and watch the seeds hail down. Ta-da!  C H R I S T I N A C H A E Y

TEST KITCHEN TALK

Carla Lalli Music food director 9 2  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

“America’s love affair with Greek yogurt has led to an explosion of brands in the dairy aisle. I love trying new ones, and that’s how I fell for Wallaby Organic WholeMilk Greek Yogurt. It’s shiny, silky, and tangy with none of the chalkiness found in some brands. It blends easily into dressings, smoothies, and batters. I also like it with a drizzle of maple syrup, eaten standing up at the kitchen counter.”

Raise Your Braise All braises benefit from a kick of something acidic, whether you’re slow-cooking a pot of red winey short ribs or delicate artichokes. Most recipes call for adding that acid—usually wine and/or vinegar—at the beginning of the cooking process, but there’s a big payoff in ending with a bit of it, too. Try stirring

a spoonful of one of these finishers into the braising liquid just before serving. C.C. CITRUS JUICE OR ZEST ⋅ M U S TA R D ⋅ P I C K L E J U I C E ⋅ SHERRY VINEGAR ⋅ PREPARED HORSERADISH ⋅ CHOPPED P R E S E RV E D L E M O N ⋅ S OY SAUCE ⋅ FRESH APPLE JUICE

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU

Hello

antioxidants. Goodbye free radicals. The power of pomegranates and the polyphenol antioxidants that fight free radicals. SUPER FRUIT WITH SUPER POWER. We’ve all heard about antioxidants and how important they are to include in our diet through whole, natural foods. Here we take a deeper look at what makes antioxidants in pomegranates so unique. Pomegranates, and of course POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice, contain antioxidants called polyphenols. Polyphenols are a type of antioxidant known to combat unstable molecules that can cause damage to your cells and DNA over time. These harmful molecules are called free radicals. And they’re POM’s nemesis. Though the human body does a good job of handling normal levels of unstable molecules, things like smoking, stress and other environmental pollutants can contribute to the generation of even more free radicals. Which means, unless you live in a bubble, everyone can beneﬁt from the antioxidant power of POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice. POM & POLYPHENOLS: THE INSIDE SCOOP. Every pomegranate has a variety of polyphenol antioxidants. The deep red arils have anthocyanins, while the rind and

white pith surrounding the arils have ellagitannins. POM Juice is the perfect way to get the ﬁghting power of both. To maximize the polyphenol level, POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice is made by pressing the entire pomegranate, so that each 16oz bottle contains the juice from 4 whole-pressed pomegranates. That means there’s antioxidant goodness in every bottle. An in vitro study at UCLA found that pomegranate juice has, on average, more antioxidant capacity than red wine, grape juice, or green tea. In fact, each serving of POM has 4x the antioxidants, on average, of green tea. ANTIOXIDANT Potency Index

Wonderful

Juice

Tea

Contains 4x the antioxidants, on average, of green tea. DRINK TO YOUR HEALTH. It’s easy to drink in the amazing health beneﬁts of pomegranates every day. Enjoy POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice with breakfast or simply add it to your favorite smoothie. Or mix POM with seltzer for an afternoon pick-me-up or for an evening mock-tail. So drink up! Your body and mind will thank you. POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice, the Antioxidant Superpower, can be found in the produce section of your supermarket. It’s also available through Amazon.

YO U S AY S W E E T P O T A T O The universe of sweet potatoes extends far beyond the Oompa Loompa– colored mash that shows up at Thanksgiving dinner. From creamy white to deep purple, these spuds grow in a variety of hues inside and out, each with its own optimal cooking method. These are our favorite types. Sweet.  C . C .

ORANGE

WHITE

PURPLE

Often labeled “yam” at the supermarket, thanks to a decades-old marketing ploy to distinguish these bright taters from peers. Mash with butter or toss in coconut oil and roast until crispy.

These chestnut-like sweet potatoes, including the Japanese variety, are drier than their orange friends. Steam or bake as a snack—a side of garlic mayo is optional.

Dense and rich. Fry or sauté in oil, which preserves their jewel tone. Virtuousness points: They’re packed with anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in blueberries.

complex flavor to our comforting Chicken and Tomato Stew with Caramelized Lemon. But that’s far from the only place we’re putting them to use: Add lemon slices to salads, or toss with beans and pasta for a welcome boost.  A N DY B A R A G H A N I

Parboil for the Course The key step for crispy-meetscreamy roasted parsnips, turnips, romanesco, and other hardy veg happens before they hit the oven. Partially

9 4  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Quarter lemon lengthwise and remove seeds.

Cut each quarter crosswise into ⅛"-thick slices.

Cook lemon in a medium skillet of simmering water for 3 minutes to soften and remove excess bitterness. Drain and pat dry with paper towels.

Toss lemon in sugar to coat. Wipe out skillet and heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil over medium-high. Cook lemon until deeply browned on both sides, about 3 minutes. Season with salt.

cooking them first in boiling water locks in moisture so

they won’t shrivel up while developing all that great color and crispiness in a hot, dry oven. Yes, it’s another pot to wash, but you’ll thank us later for never having to see another UWO (Unidentified Wrinkly Object) on your sheet pan again.  C . C .

FOOD STYLING BY ANNA BILLINGSKOG. ILLUSTRATIONS: CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (LALLI MUSIC, POT); BRUCE HUTCHISON (LEMON SLICING).

FROM P. 91

THE LIST BY B ON A PPÉ TIT

DISCOVER T H E PA L M B E A C H E S

JOIN BON APPÉ TIT AT “ THE DESERT TABLE” This April, Bon Appétit and Experience Scottsdale invite you to Scottsdale, Arizona, for a weekend of culinary exploration.

Tickets available at scottsdaledeserttable.com

4 S E RV I N G S

Prep: 10 Minutes Cook: 20 Minutes INGREDIENTS:

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Join us April 13–15 at Hotel Valley Ho for hands-on cooking demonstrations, private dining experiences led by local chefs, an art tour of downtown Scottsdale, and more. Saturday night, BA and Cloth & Flame will take you deep into the desert for a dinner under the stars, prepared by a nationally recognized chef and a local Scottsdale culinary star. There’s never been a more delicious way to experience the desert!

BUTTERNUT C U R RY S O U P

Whether wine tasting with the sommeliers around Palm Beach, exploring the gastronomic genius of one of our worldrenowned chefs, or just browsing modern art at EmKo, your pictures of America’s winter breadbasket will be worth a thousand “wows.” See for yourself in The Palm Beaches, the official sponsor of luxury.

2–Tbsp. butter ¾–cups sliced leeks 4–cups cubed butternut squash 2–tsp. curry powder 1–Tbsp. packed light brown sugar 2–cups College Inn® Chicken Broth Optional Toppings: Sour cream, chopped fresh chives DIRECTIONS:

REAL LIFE CHEFS ’ PERFECT INGREDIENT GOYA® Black Beans come loaded with ChefsBest® award-winning quality,* plus fiber and iron; ideal for rice and beans, salads, soups, stews and chili. They make giving up meat one night a week easy and delicious!

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks; cook 3 minutes. Add squash, curry powder, and sugar; cook 2 minutes. Add broth; cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes or until squash is soft. Remove from heat. Purée with immersion blender, food processor, or blender until smooth. Serve with sour cream and chives.

Visit goya.com for recipes. *The ChefsBest® Excellence Award is awarded to brands that surpass quality standards established by independent professional chefs.

BITES  HAPPENINGS  P ROMOS | VISIT B O N A P P E T I T. C O M / T H E L I ST

recipe index COOK THE COVER

Crispy Tofu in Shiitake Broth p. 88 BEVERAGE

Hemp Milk Chai p. 63 BREAD

Classic Skillet Cornbread p. 37

Crispy Tofu in Shiitake Broth p. 88 The Greenest Coconut Curry with Clams and Rice Noodles p. 88 Spiced Dal with Fluffy Rice and Salted Yogurt p. 88 MAIN COURSES

SALADS

SEAFOOD

Citrus and Avocado Salad with Orange Water p. 74 Salad for Breakfast p. 63

The Greenest Coconut Curry with Clams and Rice Noodles p. 88 Shrimp Tacos with Pineapple p.26 Spiced Snapper with Cucumber Salad p. 75

BREAKFAST

Gluten-Free Chocolate and Buckwheat Waffles p.60 Hemp Milk Chai p.63 Mango Toast with Hazelnut-Pepita Butter p. 63 Rice Bowls with Smoked Fish p. 60 Salad for Breakfast p. 63 Turmeric Eggs with Kale, Yogurt, and Bacon p. 60 SOUPS AND STEWS

Beef Chili p. 37 Brothy Beans and Farro with Eggs and Mushrooms p. 91 Chicken and Tomato Stew with Caramelized Lemon p. 91

MEAT

Beef Chili p. 37 Salad Pizza p. 28 Wheat Berry Bowl with Merguez and Pomegranate p. 30 PASTA

Cheesy Baked Pasta with Cauliflower p. 38 Pasta Carbonara p. 32 POULTRY

Chicken and Tomato Stew with Caramelized Lemon p. 91 Pomegranate-Glazed Chicken with Buttery Pine Nuts p. 74 Roast Chicken and Carrots with Mustard and Thyme p. 25

sourcebook VEGE TARIAN

Brothy Beans and Farro with Eggs and Mushrooms p. 91 Cheesy Baked Pasta with Cauliflower p. 38 Crispy Tofu in Shiitake Broth p. 88 Spiced Dal with Fluffy Rice and Salted Yogurt p. 88 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Charred Sweet Potatoes with Toum p. 75 Crunchy Baked Saffron Rice with Barberries p. 75 MISCELLANEOUS, CONDIMENTS

Hot Honey Butter p. 37 Hot-Pink Pearl Onion Pickles p. 74 Sanchez’s CarrotChile Salsa p. 18 Spinach-Yogurt Dip with Sizzled Mint p. 74 DESSERT

Gluten-Free Chocolate-Tahini Brownies p. 77

FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM /RECIPES

TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 15–23 ABCV 38 E. 19th St., NYC;

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

212-475-5829; abchome.com/dine/abcv ALMA 528 University Ave. SE, Minneapolis; 612-379-4909; almampls.com BOTANICA 1620 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-522-6106; botanicarestaurant.com GÜERO 200 NE 28th Ave., Portland, OR; 503-887-9258; gueropdx.com LITTLE OCTOPUS 505 12th Ave. S., Nashville; 615-454-3946; littleoctopusnashville.com P.Y.T. 400 S. Main St., Los Angeles; 213-687-7015; pytlosangeles.com QUAINTRELLE 3936 N. Mississippi Ave., Portland, OR; 503-200-5787; quaintrelle.co QUIOTE 2456 N. California Ave., Chicago; 312-878-8571; quiotechicago.com ROUGE TOMATE 126 W. 18th St., NYC; 646-395-3978; rougetomatechelsea.com

For information, go to rssc.com

SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL

7200-177 Mousaraz, Portugal; +351-266-247-140; barrocal.pt TUSK 2448 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR; 503-894-8082; tuskpdx.com VICIA 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis; 314-553-9239; viciarestaurant.com CRUISE GUIDE: HEALTHYISH EDITION pp. 42–50 CANYON RANCH SPA CLUB

For information, go to canyonranch.com BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2018 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 63, NO. 1. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Chief Revenue & Marketing Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please e-mail reprints@condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-8978666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. BON APPÉTIT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPÉTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

9 6  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

PRINCESS CRUISES

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CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE For information, go to carnival.com CELEBRITY CRUISES

For information, go to celebritycruises.com CHÂTEAU EZA Rue de la Pise, Èze, France; +33-4-9341-1224; chateaueza.com CRYSTAL CRUISES For information, go to crystalcruises.com JUICE LAB 14 Rue Nazareth, Aix-en-Provence, France; +33-9-8408-2304; juicelab.com LA BELLEILOISE 32 Cours Saleya, Nice, France; +33-4-9385-79200; labelleiloise.fr OCEANIA CRUISES

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RISTORANTE DA UGO

3/A via Pari, Castagneto Carducci, Italy; +39-05-6576-3746; daugo.it TERME DEI PAPI 12 Strada Bagni, Viterbo, Italy; +39-0-761-3501; termedeipapi.it BREAKFAST IS A STATE OF MIND pp. 54–63 ATLA 371 Lafayette St., NYC; atlanyc.com BOTANICA 1620 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-522-6106; botanicarestaurant.com THE HARBINGER 1107 King St., Charleston, SC; 843-637-3410; theharbingercafe.com MUCHACHO 904 Memorial Dr. SE, Atlanta; 404-748-9254; muchachoatl.com P.Y.T. 400 S. Main St., Los Angeles; 213-687-7015; pytlosangeles.com TARTINE MANUFACTORY

595 Alabama St., San Francisco; 414-757-0007; tartinemanufactory.com ALL DAY, EVERY DAY pp. 78–83 ATLA 371 Lafayette St., NYC; atlanyc.com BLUESTONE LANE For locations, go to bluestonelane.com BOTANICA 1620 Silver Lake Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-522-6106; botanicarestaurant.com CAFÉ GRATITUDE 639 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-580-6383; cafegratitude.com CAFE ROZE 1115 Porter Rd., Nashville; 615-645-9100; caferoze.com DE MARIA 19 Kenmare St., NYC; 212-966-3058; demarianyc.com KISMET 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-409-0404; kismetlosangeles.com L’ESTUDIO 61 Hester St., NYC; 212-254-9825; lestudiony.com NOURISH KITCHEN + TABLE

95 Greenwich Ave., NYC; 212-242-6115; nourishkitchentable.com SQIRL 720 N. Virgil Ave., Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com TWO HANDS For locations, go to twohandsnyc.com

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T H E L AS T B I T E

Jon Hamm How do you stay healthyish? THE VITALS

Unlike a certain iconic character whose idea of dietary mindfulness was no brown liquor before noon, Jon Hamm has a slightly more restrained approach. “You know, I try not to eat garbage,” says the star of this month’s indie drama Nostalgia. Breakfast starts sensibly enough: “That Icelandic yogurt Siggi’s is really good and not too sour,” he says. “I usually mix in some raspberries or blueberries and a little granola.” It’s a departure from his younger days, when balance wasn’t much of a concern. “I used to be able to house half a dozen doughnuts and not think about it because I was a three-sport varsity athlete and a kid.” 9 8  F E B R U A R Y 2 018

Now moderation is key for Hamm, whether it’s having the occasional single doughnut or only rarely giving in to his own nostalgia for the concretes at Ted Drewes in his hometown of St. Louis. “It’s basically an ice cream store that’s been around for the better part of a hundred years,” he explains. “But it’s frozen custard, so there are even more calories in it.” Hamm’s on-set snacking habits are also measured— he typically leaves the craft services to the crew since they’re doing most of the work. So how would he sum up his food philosophy? “A good rule of thumb: Don’t eat like an idiot.”  D A V I D W A L T E R S P H OTO G R A P H BY C H E L S I E C R A I G

ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON

Always a solid way to start the day

Restaurant résumé Dishwasher, busboy, waiter, bartender Top kitchen tool Meat thermometer Once you Don Draper’s foodpop… clients (abridged) Dunkin’ Donuts, Life cereal, Cool Whip, Sunkist, Utz

MAKE DINNER SOMETHING MEMORABLE.

ALWAYS CHARGED. ALWAYS READY. THE LEXUS HYBRID LINE

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