S|S 2017 RUNWAY REPORT

Page 1

SPRING|SUMMER 2017 TREND DOWNLOAD


CONTENTS

4 THE BUZZ 10 MODERN LEISURE 26 OFFBEAT VOLUME 42 HISTORY DECODED 58 80’S GLITZ 74 FEMME FOLK 88 KEY ITEMS



THE BUZZ SEE-NOW BUY-NOW


ANALYSIS WHAT: A platform designed to create a sense of urgency that inspires shoppers to buy clothes immediately. PROS: Immediate customer satisfaction, in-season shopping, less fast-fashion copying CONS: Less innovation and creativity,

financial risk

INFLUENCERS: Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff, Alexander Wang


SHOW EXPERIENCE TOMMY HILFIGER X GIGI Tommy Pier, NYC

RALPH LAUREN

Madison Avenue, NYC

REBECCA MINKOFF Greene Street, NYC

ALEXANDER WANG X ADIDAS Pop-up trucks, NYC


RESULTS TOMMY HILFIGER X GIGI

REBECCA MINKOFF

According to the Digital Engagement Rating released by ListenFirst, Tommy was the top digital brand of NYFW on the day of its show, generating over 411K in digital engagements — a 347% increase compared to the previous day and a 36% increase over Tommy’s performance at NYFW the year prior.

For that weekend, sales across its stores and website increased 168%, compared to the weekend after its runway show last year. Online sales also saw a doubledigit increase. “We beat our best day ever by about 25% and we were only open for half of the day,” said cofounder and chief executive officer Uri Minkoff.

SOLD OUT

SOLD OUT

SOLD OUT

SOLD OUT

BEST SELLER

BEST SELLER


RESULTS BURBERRY

ALEXANDER WANG X ADIDAS

The day after the show, Burberry’s Regent Street boutique had sold out of several styles from the collection before noon. Many of the key pieces sold out on the brand’s website as well. Burberry may have an interesting strategy behind the sell-through; reportedly, every store only received a single size run of everything, with no plans to restock.

The first nine styles from the 84-piece-unisex-collection were available to shop at various pop-up trucks around NYC. The hype drew lines around the block hours before they even arrived at their designated locations the next day. Prices range from $80 for a graphic tee to $180 for skate shoes, which were the most coveted items.

BEST SELLER

BEST SELLER


CONCLUSION SEASONLESS

Clothes are seasonless and appropriate for the weather at the time of the show

AFFORDABILITY

Affordable enough for people to justify clothing as impulse purchases

LIMITED-EDITION

Sense of scarcity that comes with a limited-edition collection

SOCIAL MEDIA

Presence on Facebook, Snapchat, Instagram to create a buzz and blogger attraction/participation

INTERACTIVE EVENT

An open-to-the-public shopping component such as pop up trucks at an after party



MODERN LEISURE The casual power of the New York streets meets the upper class finesse of couture fashion. Sportswear elements are mixed with elegant fabrics, couture finishings and refined details. Athleisure references are apparent in architecturally constructed silhouettes.



11-0602 TCX

15-1262 TCX

18-1662 TCX

12-0742 TCX

18-3324 TCX

15-3930 TCX

18-3949 TCX

19-0303 TCX


Marni

Vera Wang

Chloe

Stella McCartney

DKNY

KEY LOOKS | MODERN LEISURE


Fendi

DKNY

Prada

Sacai

Esteban Cortazar

KEY LOOKS | MODERN LEISURE


KEY SILHOUETTES | MODERN LEISURE

THE UTILITY ANORAK

Balenciaga M. Martin

Marni

Yang Li

Balenciaga

Vivienne Westwood

THE BOMBER JACKET


KEY SILHOUETTES | MODERN LEISURE

Fendi

Mugler

Rag & Bone

3.1 Phillip Lim

Emporio Armani

THE JOGGER

DKNY

THE SWEATSHIRT


KEY SILHOUETTES | MODERN LEISURE

THE BRA TOP

Gucci Versace

DKNY

Prada

DKNY

Alexander Wang

THE SPORT TRENCH


KEY SILHOUETTES | MODERN LEISURE

THE CARGO PANT

Dion Lee

Stella McCartney

Monse

Marni

Chloe

Tory Burch

THE ACTIVE PULLOVER


Sacai

Proenza Schouler

BOLD STRIPES

Versace

GRAPHIC COLOR BLOCKING

Givenchy

PRINT & PATTERN | MODERN LEISURE


PRINT & PATTERN | MODERN LEISURE

Louis Vuitton

Off-White

CHECKERBOARD

Mary Katrantzou

Sportmax

DIZZYING GRAPHICS


Christian Dior

Courreges

Stella McCartney

DRAWSTRINGS

Alexander Wang

Sacai

Chloe

DESIGN DETAILS | MODERN LEISURE

CONTRAST BINDING


Sonia Rykiel

Louis Vuitton

Off-White

ZIPPERS

Alberto Zambelli

3.1 Phillip Lim

Joseph

DESIGN DETAILS | MODERN LEISURE

LONG STRAPS


Anteprima

Rag & Bone

Kenzo

ACTIVE SHINE

Dries Van Noten

Esteban Cortazar

Roksanda

MATERIALS | MODERN LEISURE

SWEATSHIRT/FLEECE


Pringle of Scotland

Adam Selman

MSGM

MESH

Isabel Marant

NO. 21

Alexander Wang

MATERIALS | MODERN LEISURE

DENIM



OFFBEAT VOLUME Silhouettes are giant, swamping the body and sweeping the floor. Shapes are extended, inflated and layered up or deconstructed and allowed to fall in abstract configurations. Dissection and reconstruction lead to radical new pieces that transcend gender definitions.



12-0822 TCX

11-4300 TCX

16-1449 TCX

17-1321 TCX

18-3540 TCX

17-0636 TCX

8385 C

19-3911 TCX


Jil Sander

Roksanda

Stella McCartney

Chloe

Marni

KEY LOOKS | OFFBEAT VOLUME


Balenciaga

Ports 1961

Celine

Loewe

Valentino

KEY LOOKS | OFFBEAT VOLUME


KEY SILHOUETTES | OFFBEAT VOLUME

THE SHIRT WITH A QUIRK

Celine MSGM

Victoria Beckham

Marni

Stella McCartney

Jacquemus

THE BROAD TO NARROW


KEY SILHOUETTES | OFFBEAT VOLUME

Celine

Valentino

Hermes

Jacquemus

Valentino

THE OVOID SHAPE

Chloe

THE EXAGGERATED TROUSER


KEY SILHOUETTES | OFFBEAT VOLUME

Marni

Chloe

JW Anderson

Palmer Harding

Sies Marjan

THE MULTI-LAYERS

Joseph

THE STRUCTURED CHEMISE


KEY SILHOUETTES | OFFBEAT VOLUME

Chalayan

Maison Margiela

Prada

Acne Studios

Nehera

THE OVERSIZED TUNIC

Sacai

THE UNIQUE DETAIL TRENCH


PRINT & PATTERN | OFFBEAT VOLUME

MSGM

Jil Sander

Lanvin

Marni

LOOSE LINES

TAILORED STRIPES


PRINT & PATTERN | OFFBEAT VOLUME

Mulberry

Gabriele Colangelo

MODERN PLAID

JW Anderson

Roksanda

SECTIONED COLOR


DESIGN DETAILS | OFFBEAT VOLUME

EXCESS BUTTONS

DKNY Stella McCartney

Louis Vuitton

Marni

Celine

Louis Vuitton

ARCHITECTURAL CUTOUTS


DESIGN DETAILS | OFFBEAT VOLUME

ASYMMETRIC HEMLINE

Louis Vuitton JW Anderson

Loewe

Marni

Celine

Christian Dior

EXTRA-LONG SLEEVE


Saint Laurent

Aquilano Rimondi

Kritzia

SHEER

Carolina Herrara

Chloe

Louis Vuitton

MATERIALS | OFFBEAT VOLUME

METALLIC COATING


MSGM

Marni

JW Anderson

QUILTING

DKNY

Alberto Zambelli

Christian Dior

MATERIALS | OFFBEAT VOLUME

SHIRTING



HISTORY DECODED Historically inspired pieces are exquisitely worked into contemporary products. Collars and necklines are attention grabbing: dĂŠcolletĂŠ, face framing or with high contrast collars. Steeped in historical influences, we see shapes with drama: strong outlines with generous fullness springing out from tight waistlines.



11-1005 TCX

14-1714 TCX

16-0952 TCX

18-1754 TCX

17-0636 TCX

19-1650 TCX

10343 TCX

19-0303 TCX


Marc Jacobs

Valentino

Gucci

Alexander McQueen

Simone Rocha

KEY LOOKS | HISTORY DECODED


Erdem

Dries Van Noten

Valentino

Andrew Gn

Burberry

KEY LOOKS | HISTORY DECODED


KEY SILHOUETTES | HISTORY DECODED

VICTORIAN JACKET

DSquared2 Andrew Gn

Burberry

Moon Young Hee

Simone Rocha

Saint Laurent

LEG-O-MUTTON SLEEVES


Alexander McQueen

Diesel Black Gold

Anne Sofie Madsen

RUFFLE FRONT BLOUSE

Ermanno Scervino

Cinq a Sept

Gucci

KEY SILHOUETTES | HISTORY DECODED

BOUDOIR DRESS


KEY SILHOUETTES | HISTORY DECODED

ROBE COAT

Gucci Zimmermann

Burberry

Zimmermann

Jacquemus

Erdem

FLOUNCE SKIRT


JW Anderson

Stella McCartney

Christopher Kane

BOUDOIR CAMISOLE

Celine

Vionnet

Sharon Wauchob

KEY SILHOUETTES | HISTORY DECODED

NIPPED-IN WAIST


PRINT & PATTERN | HISTORY DECODED

Gucci

Erdem

Osman

Valentino

BAROQUE

FURNISHING FLORALS


PRINT & PATTERN | HISTORY DECODED

Valentino

Mary Katrantzou

SCROLL WORK

Alexander McQueen

Nanette Lepore

ORNATE PAISLEYS


Stella McCartney

Gucci

Loewe

FRILLS & FLOUNCES

Christian Dior

Isabel Marant

Mulberry

DESIGN DETAILS | HISTORY DECODED

CORSETRY


DESIGN DETAILS | HISTORY DECODED

Dries Van Noten

Ermanno Scervino

Gucci

Giamba

Burberry

HIGH NECK

Sacai

BAND-LEADER BUTTONS


Andrew Gn

Valentino

Victoria Beckham

VELVET

Roland Mouret

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi

Marni

MATERIALS | HISTORY DECODED

LACE TRIM


Dries Van Noten

Erdem

Dolce & Gabbana

EMBELLISHMENT EMBROIDERY

Gucci

Gucci

Alexander McQueen

MATERIALS | HISTORY DECODED

BROCADE



80’S GLITZ A tribute to the true disco-glam movement: rebellious yet seductive; tough yet with a hint of sexiness. Designers are layering more-is-more silhouettes with modern elements to revitalize the true spirit of the 1980s. Exaggerated silhouettes are accentuated with a focus on proportion play.



18-1662 TCX

18-2436 TCX

18-4140 TCX

18-3120 TCX

8664 C

8365 C

8943 C

19-3911 TCX


Haider Ackermann

Gucci

Balenciaga

Saint Laurent

Mugler

KEY LOOKS | 80’S GLITZ


Saint Laurent

Kenzo

Balenciaga

Isabel Marant

Marco de Vincenzo

KEY LOOKS | 80’S GLITZ


KEY SILHOUETTES | 80’S GLITZ

Max Mara

Isabel Marant

Aalto

Stella McCartney

Gucci

Saint Laurent

THE BODYCON MINI DRESS

THE GRAPHIC TEE


KEY SILHOUETTES | 80’S GLITZ

Balenciaga

Christopher Kane

Gucci

Celine

Mulberry

THE SUPERSIZED SUIT

NO. 21

THE GLAM SKIRT


KEY SILHOUETTES | 80’S GLITZ

THE 80s SPORT

Kenzo Max Mara

Balenciaga

Gucci

Christopher Kane

Trussardi

THE SLOUCHY CARDIGAN


KEY SILHOUETTES | 80’S GLITZ

THE BROAD CUT BLAZER

Jil Sander Balenciaga

Celine

Kenzo

Balenciaga

Saint Laurent

THE SCULPTED BLOUSE


Stella McCartney

GLITZY ANIMAL

Ashley Williams

Christopher Kane

Saint Laurent

PRINT & PATTERN | 80’S GLITZ

TEEN ANGST


PRINT & PATTERN | 80’S GLITZ

Louis Vuitton

Balmain

RECOLORED SKINS

Rosie Assoulin

Gucci

JEWEL COLOR BLOCKS


Marc Jacobs

Rodarte

Off-White

ONE SHOULDER

Gucci

Vivienne Westwood

Saint Laurent

DESIGN DETAILS | 80’S GLITZ

SCULPTURAL FRILLS


Isabel Marant

Elie Saab

Salvatore Ferragamo

GATHERING & RUCHING

Balenciaga

Saint Laurent

Balenciaga

DESIGN DETAILS | 80’S GLITZ

OVERSIZED BELTS


Kenzo

Ellery

Au Jour De Jour

SEQUINS

Balenciaga

Marc Jacobs

Kenzo

MATERIALS | 80’S GLITZ

PVC


Kenzo

Ashley Williams

Barbara Bui

SATIN

Balenciaga

Veronique Leroy

Marc Jacobs

MATERIALS | 80’S GLITZ

NYLON



FEMME FOLK The artistry of foreign cultures in a mix with moderninity results in a surprising merge of the handmade, the decorative, the mechanical, and the crafted. Softened, fluid layers via natural fibers of linen, silk and cotton sun-kissed in weather-worn hues nonchalantly wrap and drape sensuously in silhouettes.



14-1108 TCX

13-1108 TCX

14-3912 TCX

17-1430 TCX

13-0107 TCX

19-3938 TCX

19-1540TCX

19-2420 TCX


Pringle of Scotland

Loewe

Acne Studios

Valentino

Etro

KEY LOOKS | FEMME FOLK


Lemaire

Etro

Stella McCartney

Roberto Cavalli

Stella McCartney

KEY LOOKS | FEMME FOLK


Marni

Stella McCartney

Marco de Vincenzo

THE KNIT A-LINE TUNIC

Loewe

Stella McCartney

Acne Studios

KEY SILHOUETTES | FEMME FOLK

THE DRAWSTRING DRESS


KEY SILHOUETTES | FEMME FOLK

Chloe

Etro

Valentino

Tome

Zero + Maria Cornejo

THE BARE SHOULDER

Acne Studios

THE KAFTAN


PRINT & PATTERN | FEMME FOLK

Oscar de la Renta

Acne Studios

Nicholas K

Etro

WEATHERED PAISLEY

DESERT CHECKS


PRINT & PATTERN | FEMME FOLK

Giamba

Loewe

PATCHWORK

Celine

Marni

TRIBAL TEXTURE


DESIGN DETAILS | FEMME FOLK

DRAWCORD NECKLINES

Loewe Isabel Marant

Stella McCartney

Loewe

Roberto Cavalli

Valentino

HANDCRAFTED BEADING


Blugirl

Etro

Giamba

LENGTHY FRINGE

Alberta Ferretta

Trussardi

Veronique Leroy

DESIGN DETAILS | FEMME FOLK

TASSLES


Vivienne Tam

Stella McCartney

Ulla Johnson

OPENWORK + CROCHET

Chloe

Talbot Runhof

Loewe

MATERIALS | FEMME FOLK

SUEDE


Isabel Marant

Acne Studios

Stella McCartney

LINEN

Pringle of Scotland

Victoria Beckham

Lemaire

MATERIALS | FEMME FOLK

DENIM


Louis Vuitton

Gucci

Valentino

Creatures of the Wind

M. Martin

Sies Marjan

Stella McCartney

Josie Natori


Tibi

DKNY

Victoria Beckham

Margaret Howell

KEY ITEMS

MSGM

Bottega Veneta

ESSENTIAL

FASHION RIGHT

CONTINUING


KEY ITEMS | JACKETS

DOUBLE BREASTED

TAILORED COAT

BLOUSON JACKET

Stella McCartney

M. Martin

3.1 Phillip Lim

Celine

Louis Vuitton

ESSENTIAL

UTILITY ANORAK

ACTIVE PULLOVER


KEY ITEMS | JACKETS

HIGH SHINE COAT

BROAD SHOULDER BLAZER

Marni

Max Mara

CONTINUING

DKNY

Balenciaga

FASHION RIGHT

FLUID TRENCH

WIND-BREAKER


KEY ITEMS | TOPS

BARE SHOULDER

ELONGATED SLEEVE

ROMANTIC BLOUSE

BOUDOIR CAMISOLE

Victoria Beckham

Alexander Wang

Gucci

Gabriele Colangelo

Sies Marjan

ESSENTIAL

BRALETTE


KEY ITEMS | TOPS

SCULPTURAL SLEEVE

Balenciaga

Chloe REWORKED

Acne Studios

CONTINUING

Victoria Beckham

Jil Sander

FASHION RIGHT

SHEER

CLASSIC

PAJAMA


KEY ITEMS | DRESSES

SPORT-INSPIRED

SUMMER MINI

Gabriele Colangelo

Valentino

JW Anderson

Valentino

Boss Women

ESSENTIAL

CHEMISE

MODERN SLIP

PINAFORE


KEY ITEMS | DRESSES

FASHION RIGHT

BOUDOIR

DRAWSTRING

Celine

Roksanda

Vionnet

Stella McCartney

CONTINUING

FIT N FLARE

SHIRTDRESS


KEY ITEMS | SKIRTS

MINI

MSGM

Saint Laurent

Bottega Veneta

ESSENTIAL

SLIM MIDI

FULL


KEY ITEMS | SKIRTS

FASHION RIGHT

GLAM

FLOUNCE

FLOOR-SWEEPING

Aquazarra

Gucci

Erdem

Bottega Veneta

CONTINUING

PENCIL


KEY ITEMS | TROUSERS

CROPPED WIDE

PAPERBAG WAIST

SPORT INSPIRED

Roksanda

Christopher Kane

Gucci

Stella McCartney

Creatures of the Wind

ESSENTIAL

SPLIT HEM

TAILORED JUMPSUIT


KEY ITEMS | TROUSERS

HIGH WAIST

SKINTIGHT

Delpozo

Hermes

Roksanda

Balenciaga

Isabel Marant

FASHION RIGHT

CROPPED FLARE

RELAXED WIDE

BALLOON


KEY ITEMS | TROUSERS

Valentino

Christian Dior

CONTINUING

PAJAMA

CROPPED SLIM


KEY ITEMS | KNITWEAR

GRAPHIC DRESS

BOXY CROP

PRIM CARDIGAN

Miu Miu

Creatures of the Wind

Margaret Howell

DKNY

Opening Ceremony

ESSENTIAL

FITTED CREW

SPORTIF VEST


KEY ITEMS | KNITWEAR

CROPPED VEST

JUMPSUIT

Christopher Kane

A-LINE TUNIC

Off-White

Missoni

CONTINUING

Prada

Stella McCaretney

FASHION RIGHT

STATEMENT SWEATER

SLOUCHY CARDIGAN


KEY ITEMS | SUITS & SETS

MINIMALIST SUIT

PRINTED SET

Tibi

Louis Vuitton

Chloe

Victoria Beckham

ESSENTIAL

SKIRT SUIT

SHORT SUIT


KEY ITEMS | SUITS & SETS

SUPERSIZED SUIT

Mulberry

Stella McCartney

CONTINUING

Louis Vuitton

Balenciaga

FASHION RIGHT

ULTRASLIM SUIT

PAJAMA SET

LEISURE SUIT


THANK YOU


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