Project 1
Critical Journal DESN 1651
Name: Jingsi Wang Student Number: 200733591
ARTIST RESEARCH Hidur Bjarnadottir Hildur Bjarnad贸ttir graduated from New York in 1997. Her work tests textile art of connection between the conceptual and material parameters. She believed that it is important to have a in-depth exploration of textile design. She made some works with individual linen yarns and acrylic paint together, which had a hand-wove gingham pattern (Fig.1). I used hand knitting to make the block pattern (Fig.2 & Fig.3) like her work. And about anther work of her, it is like a lace to be a regulated shape (Fig.4). I like the lace pattern in her work. I try to imitate the shape which used the hand knitting with dropped stitch (Fig.5) and the machine knitting with lace (Fig.6).
Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
Fig.4
Fig.6
Fig.5
Cal Lane She would like to use popular associations to make lace. She said that she likes to discover how this clean, white, delicate object draped over dirty, oily, steel machine. And she make her works with a balance by comparing and contrasting ideas and materials. This series of “Industrial Doilies” makes industrial and domestic life together (Fig.7 & Fig.8). It represented relationships of strong and delicate, masculine and feminine, practical and frivolity, ornament and function. I copy the pattern with lace like Hildur Bjarnadóttir’s work. It used the dropped stitch (Fig.5).
Fig.7
Fig.8
Niels Van eijk This is another artist with the lace design. He is a co-founder of Droog Design. He would like to use leather to be the materials. The design picture is created in 2002 called Bobbin Lace Lamp. It used fiber-optic material. I like the inspiration of lamp (Fig.9 & Fig.10).
Fig.9
Fig.10
Althea Merback In 2000, she had the challenges with technique of tiny scale knitting. It is to knit on such a small scale. She developed commercial patterns and techniques for 1:12 scale gloves, socks and other garments (Fig.11) which is called "extreme knitting.� She was an avid knitter who would like to design difficult patterns with different colours. And she usually applied materials with natural fiber of cotton, wool and silk. The example from an ongoing series of miniature garments, which used many colours to be a sweater (Fig.12). I try to imitate the pattern and various colours together. It used the colours to be the shape (Fig.13 & Fig.14). Fig.11
Fig.12
Fig.13
Fig.14
Ferancoise Dupre Dupre is a sculptor and installation artist who is born in France and now based in London. She as a convert spools knitting and her works are in relation to sculpture and installation work. She thinks that knitting is both a process and a symbol together. She uses French spool knitting to make technique simply. This picture (Fig.15) called Fleur Bleue (Blue Flower) made of the blue bottle caps of a brand of a French mineral water and connected with black elastic. This work described an important meaning from her: the celebration of the beauty found in everyday life. She usually uses colourful stings to make to be a circle (Fig.16). I copy the beautiful colours and try to make it together like the the picture (Fig.14). Fig.15
Fig.16
VISUAL RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT I found the textures and colours from my photos and drew the development research.
FINAL WORK Final 1
Research
Machine
Hand Knitting Based Visual Research
Machine Work Fabric stitch
4 x 4 Dropped Stitch
Machine Gauge
3.5gg
Stitch cam settings
21 21 21 21
Yarn specification
100% Lambswool 2/17Nm Soft Combed Cotton 2/16Cc 100% Acrylic 2/22Nm 100% Cotton Courses 1-8
6/17Nm Feeder 1
Lever diagrams
Courses 9&10
No Feeder
Hand Knitting Needle Size
3mm
Fiber Content
Basket stitch Dropped Stitch
Fabric structure
100% Lambswool 2/17Nm Chenille Soft Combed Cotton 2/16Cc Acrylic 2/22Nm 100% Cotton
6/17Nm
Pattern Design This pattern is based on the two photographs from museum and one from outside. The texture of orange blocks is from the walls which used the brick clay to build. It can discover the pattern to be the rectangle. And the orange vase has the pattern with the white lines which to be a shape. So I make them together to get the pattern to be a square. And the colours is based on the orange vase, but it mixes light and dark stings to have a change. Another pattern of the blue dropped stitch is based on the picture of blue net. The shape of rhombus changes a little in the work. I mixes the two pattern to be one integrated fabric which can find two different designs. The colours use contrasting clours to attract views. And the same series colours with little changes can give a comfortable feelings.
Final 2
Research
Work 1
Work 2
Based Visual Research
Work 1 (Machine & Hand Knitting) Machine (the based fabric with yellow and blue) Machine Gauge
5gg
Stitch cam settings
15 15 15 15
Yarn specification
100% Lambswool 2/17Nm Cotton 6/30Nm Cotton 2/38Nm 100% Acrylic 2/30Nm
Lever diagrams
Hand Knitting (the colour pattern with black and red) Needle Size
3mm
Fiber Content
Fair Isle Intarsia
Fabric structure
100% Lambswool 2/17Nm Cotton 2/44Nm Soft Combed Cotton 2/16Cc Merino 2/30Nm 100% Cotton
6/17Nm
Work 2 Needle Size
3mm
Fiber Content
Fair Isle Intarsia 1/2 Cardigan
Fabric structure
100% Lambswool 2/17Nm Soft Combed Cotton 2/16Cc Merino 2/30Nm 100% Cotton
6/17Nm
Pattern Design This pattern is based on three photographs of displays from museum. The based fabric with blue and yellow uses the gradient colours from the second and third pictures. The colours use contrasting clours to be more attraction and the same series colours with little changes are as a simple background with a comfortable feeling which is not subfusc. The foreground pattern uses colours to be a shape which is from the first plate. I change the shape to be the simple geometrics. The contrasting colours with red and black are the rectangle and the work makes the yellow shape to connect them. The middle red and black rectangular just has one side connected on the based fabric. I make it to be like a pocket on the cloth to move flat fabric. Mixed fabric can have hiberarchy and change fabric structure easily.
Bibliography McFadden, D and Scanlan, J. 2008. Radical Lace & Subversive. New York : Museum of Art and Design. BUGKNITS. 2014. Miniature Knitting by Althea Crome. [Online]. [Accessed 2 March 2014]. Available from: http://www.bugknits.com/about.htm Cal Lane. 2014. Artist Statment. [Online]. [Accessed 2 March 2014]. Available from: http://www.callane.com/index.php?id=9 Icelandic Art Center. 2014. Hildur Bjarnadóttir. [Online]. [Accessed 2 March 2014]. Available from: http://icelandicartcenter.is/people/artists/hildur-bjarnadottir/ Spoolknitter. 2008. Françoise Dupré. [Online]. [Accessed 2 March 2014]. Available from: http://spoolknitter.blogspot.co.uk/2008/06/francoise-dupre.html