CodeďźšDESN 2564
Name: Jingsi Wang Student Number: 200733591
Theme idea ------------------------------------------------------------------Historical research ---------------------------------------------------------Edo period - Kimono ----------------------------------------------------Arts & Crafts - artists ------------------------------------------------Products research ---------------------------------------------------------Contemporary research ----------------------------------------------------Weekly journal ------------------------------------------------------------Development drawing -----------------------------------------------------Development digital ------------------------------------------------------Colour --------------------------------------------------------------------Final work -----------------------------------------------------------------Illustration --------------------------------------------------------------Summary -------------------------------------------------------------------Bibliography - --------------------------------------------------------------
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Ideas of the project is from the Edo period in Japan and Arts and Crafts Movement. I would like to make the eastern and western images together. I focus on the simple traditional patterns from the Edo period to be the basic drawings and the cirrus pattern from Arts and Crafts Movement. Then, I collect them with a suitable layout. The main colours are from the Edo period. Most of them is contrasting colours to be a logical collection. Products’ idea is silk scarf for women. There are two types of scarf: square scarf and large scarf which can be made to be dress or shirts. Scarf as the decorational object is good at shinning colours. I think contrasting colours can attract the vision.
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Edo period - kimono
Arts & Crafts Movement - artists
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The Edo period is between 1603 and 1868 in the history of Japan. It has a high growth in the period including a magnificent artistic tradition of painting, calligraphy, printmaking, ceramics, architecture, textile work, and lacquer. ‘Kimono’, the traditional clothes of Japan, is loose straight-seamed garments. It has a long history. From the second half of the eighteenth century, kimono were patterned in the wide sash. This textile was usually made in the Edo period. The length of women’s kimono is usually longer than human figure. The flat used symmetrical nature to be the decoration with heavyweight fabrics for famous women. These were made by softer self-patterned or plain silks which were dyed, painted and embroidered.
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The kimono is made by silk with tie-dyed and embroidered technique. Black silk is the background and a numbers of circles which were tie-dying technique represent paper gift ornaments. The shape of butterflies is composed of spots or just outline. These different types made the viewing to be more interesting. Buds, half-open plum flowers and branches are embroidered with different colours, used gold and white silk to be the flowers and light brown to be branches. The three colours are simple, but it is appeared on the black background obviously. The another successful technique is fully opened flowers which are made by coiled gold laid with orange stitches. This working of gold and polychrome embroidery in silk is a high technology. 6
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This type of kimono is called No costumes which were especially made of heavy, stiff silk with emphatic designs by less immediately obvious nuances of tailoring. From the Edo period, the affluent merchant class is developed. Therefore the sophisticated women choose their favourite design to be individual kimono. Name of the kimono is called Kariginu. This one made of green silk with large scale gold design by 18th or 19th century. The green to be the background serves the gold hexagon design to be shining. The pattern is stylized chrysanthemums and threecomma motifs which are connected by same hexagons. The same repeat pattern with intricate arrangement improve the whole fashion. 7
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No robes is another part of fashion for No style. These garments are used to drape diagonally under the right arm and over the left shoulder. In Japan, these vertically seamed mantles called kesa. This is a certain technique which uses complex woven silks, enhancing metal thread and displaying various designs with Buddhist motifs during the Edo period. The pattern is repeating leaf medallions and flower scrolls in. There are many details on the background, the small block. Flowers like the shadow make the gold leaves shinning. The four squares in the corner embellishes the fashion. 8
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William Morris William Morris is a pioneer in English Arts and Crafts Movement. He as an English textile designer, artist, writer, and libertarian socialist related with the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. His works used to be wallpapers, pattern on clothes and so on, even popular now. His works preferred using natural objects like plants, fruits and birds. Morris describes the realistic things with lines and colours.
John Henry Dearle John Henry Dearle or J. H. Dearle was a British textile and stained glass designer trained by Pre-Raphaelite artist and craftsman William Morris. He is the chief designer in Morris & Co., working on woven and printed textiles, carpets and embroideries as well as tapestries.
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This is Trellis wallpaper whose birds drawn by Philip Webb in 1862. Trellis is one of his first three wallpapers of Daisy, Fruit and Trellis between 1864 and 1867. He used naturalistic repetitive pattern to show rhythmic and balanced picture freely and seamlessly. The block printing which is a special technique for wallpaper is early work for Morris. I prefer the block arrangement to be the background which is orderly, but the brunch break the line. It makes the whole picture to be more interesting. The red flowers and birds add vitality. 10
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This work of wallpaper is called Acanthus. It is foliage pattern of intertwined acanthus leaves in shades of green which is blockprinted in distemper colours in 1875. From the image, Morris started to create large-scale design for wallpaper. Complex layering and vigorous curves show an amazing three-dimensional effect with beautifully understated hues to be balance the whole image. I prefer the cirrus arrangement. The pattern use the similar colours, but it has a new styles. There are also many details in the background which is small cirrus and flowers. This background just has two colours of gray and brown.
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During the 1890s, Dearle designed many wallpapers with Firm’s style, such as Compton and Golden Lily. The swirling tendrils represents the spirit of Morris’s earlier work. However, his works usually use contrasting colours. I like colours in these images. Lily is the main theme with fluent line. Cirrus is just simple colours but they can be found many details.
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Towards the turn of the century, Dearle developed to sweeter style. This is more suitable in tune with the design from the Arts & Crafts Movement. The work, called Seaweed, is wallpaper in 1955. The pattern is completed by various foliage in shades of green, with blue flowers. There are two large undulating yellow stems on a dark-blue ground covered with red and green dots. The work’s main colour is cold, but the red dots show a vivid image.
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Products’ idea is silk scarf for women. There are two types of scarf: square scarf and large scarf which can be made to be dress or shirts.
Square scarf
Large scarf
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Japanese contemporary - washi paper
Contemporary artists
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In the Edo period, it is the top for washi paper which became a part of people's lives. Therefore, It has the finest quality paper of Han (clan). Inshu washi is known as one of the top production areas. At first, these paper is called Yuzen which use decorative patterns to make accessories in the house to enliven the interiors. Then, manufactures discovered that it has many opportunities to be fashionable wealthier ladies, so it became a famous technique to dye cloth. At present, the paper is called Chiyogami which was made into cutting pieces for paper dolls or pasted on tea tins or small paper boxes. Some traditional patterns’ scales and pigment colours are also use today. These papers ideal and new Japanese designers compete the whole manufacture.
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I prefer the colours of Chiyogami paper. The left two images use contrasting colours such as red and green, orange and blue. The right two images use gradual colours. The main pattern of them combine with plants and some traditional motif.
The first image is displayed by special blocks which are filled into Japanese traditional patterns. I like the contrasting colours to display harmonious together.
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The other three images are arrayed to diagonal. The right two images use the gradual colours to be background, and one spacial colour decorate the whole design. third
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Hanna Werning Her work is like fairy-tale imagery. The forests and woodlands presents her boast bold and articulated designs clearly. She would like to design the shapes to take out of context. For instance, she combines seahorses with pumas and jungle plants to present peaceful air.
Her main work is focus to two categories: “designs that are driven by ideas, and those that are intuitively driven by colour and rhythm�. Therefore, these pictures described with colourful parts with animals and plants’ shapes. I prefer the shape with positive and negative and the special context drawing. The colourful shapes have logical arrangement to make the picture more vivid. 18
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Louise Body Her designs combine with nostalgic and modern pattern. These wallpaper service to homeowners who prefer the art of postmodern. The pattern is simple but it uses special colours to obtain warm tones.
She would like to draw bird theme whose prints are like nature magazine illustrations. I like her theme about nature, and the same leaves with different colours. Birds in the design can enhance more energy. On the other hand, I like her works’ ideas. She makes the historical movement with the contemporary patterns. For example, the bird image combines with arts and crafts patterns and birds. 19
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Week 1 (30/09/2014)
Week 2 (06/10/2014)
Week 3 (13/10/2014)
This week, I found resources about Japanese edo period and William Morris. I decide to make the two styles which are from the east and west together, so I lined some objects like butterflies and traditional patterns with the edo period’s type. Then, I used the style of Arts & Crafts Movement to draw the birds and plants. I tried to make two styles in one work, but it is not good. I think a good layout and gradual colours can be more comfortable. Therefore, I drew various objects with the two styles to make them together.
This week, I found some yuzen fashion in the edo period. I think the flowers and butterflies can fit into cirrus. I drew various cirrus to find the better one because I wanted to find the fitted one to match the pattern. Then, I drew colourful butterflies with lycoris radiate. I made the cirrus to be the background. I made various styles’ objects to be together, and adjusted the arrangement. However, I think the best one is the butterflies or flowers blended in the background, which are covered by some cirrus.
This week I researched the washi paper. This is one of the vital art in Japan. I learned the layout of the paper which is divided into lozenges with line. I tried to use different shapes to make the layout. It is a good experience to arrange the whole composition of design. On the other hand, I got some resources of negative and positive from Hanna Werning. I drew some shape of flowers with line, and make shadow from drawing picture. I tried to combined them together, so I got a new shape which used the same colour. 20
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Week 4 (20/10/2014)
Week 5 (27/10/2014)
This week I focused on colours. I made some researches from washi paper which is completed with gradual colours or contrasting colour. Then, I tried used various colours from light to dark, selecting some colours to make them together. And I also choice some contrasting colours to make them in one design, selecting the best collocation to be background colour. On the other hand, I drew some small pictures with geometry and line. And they filled into various colours with different shapes which were full with the background with lozenges or another layout with line.
This week I decided the final works. I used the contrasting colours with traditional patterns. However, I drew traditional patterns with positive and negative way. I used the cirrus drawing to be the background or decoration to improve pictures. I made the basic arrangement with block pattern or straight line. Then, I made some shadows of my drawing ideas. They were made to be the background in my design. I continued to draw the simple small pictures and combined them together to obtain a new patterns which were filled into the whole background.
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I get the idea of drawing cirrus from William Morris. I tried to use different techniques such as fine line pen and mark pen.
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This is about some simple small patterns. The idea is from washi paper. I like the design of outline and the full patterns, from plants or geometry, so I learnt the style to draw the outline and some simple patterns from plants or traditional motif like clouds or water.
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This idea of layout is from washi paper. I learnt the outline which is completed by geometry. Another idea of fans and butterflies, they are from kimono. According to the photography, I made the reality and imagination together.
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I drew some positive and negative patterns like Hanna Werning. I am based on the plants photography which just take their shadow shape. This is a good way to catch the points of pictures.
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The flower drawings are from photography with colour pencil. I used the gradual colours to draw the flowers.
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The flower drawings are from photography with colour pencil. I used the gradual colours to make the flowers.
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I tried to make cirrus together to be a new shape which has the similar colours. I combined four parts of cirrus with different arrangements to choice better one. I think the rhombus one is better than square one. Next, I made the new shape to complete with my other flowers drawing.
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I made the simple patterns with colours and the shape of lozenge and hexagon. And then, I put them together. I used the several colours with various display. This is my main development of my final work. I used many times to full into different geometries.
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I used the light colour to be full into the shape and combined them to have a new vision. Another shadow is made by cirrus with flowers square. This is a good way to get the simple shadow. And I can get a obvious different feeling.
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I put the whole of the cirrus to be a new shape. There are square and straight line. I am based on the drawing of flowers to be a cirrus straight. And I tried to change gray and black two colours which one is better to match my work’s background.
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The fan pattern is my original work. It just has fans to be a whirlpool with the flower background. However, I think this pattern is too empty for the layout, and it is difficult to improve the new idea.
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I got the block idea from William Morris, so my first design is about block pattern with butterflies. I made many different layout and colours with this design.
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The main colours has two classifications which are gradual and contrasting colours. I got the idea from washi paper. The one of them used light colours to be the positive and negative pattern. The background used the dark shadow and light similar colour together. The other three, I used contrasting colour to be make various layout. I choice the main colours of red, dark blue, black, pink and dark yellow.
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First work The main style of this work is positive and negative. I got the idea from Hanna Werning, but I drew traditional plants' images. I used the light colours and made transparency to change their layering. The background has two parts with similar colour. The shadow was combined with cirrus, flower pattern and a butterfly. I repeated the pattern of shadow. Then, I made the foreground pattern. First, I am not to make the transparency. The design can be seen to be busier. So I changed the transparency which shows the pattern darker. This way can give the design more layering.
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Second work This design got the idea from washi paper. It used contrasting colours and gave a good management to obtain a new way. The hexagon idea is from kimono. Some simple samples are fulled into hexagons. I did many tries of the background. First, I choice the straight line with black cirrus, but it can not present in the dark colour. Then, I changed to waving line with light gray cirrus. I think this is the best one to be the background.
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Third work This design also got the idea from washi paper. It just uses six colours with different transparency and layout. It completed the lozenge background which is filled with my simple small drawing. I made these sample together to put a new shape. Finally, I used dark yellow to be the foreground which is like fog to cover somewhere. And I used the shadow of butterfly to be decoration.
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Fourth work This design got the idea from kimono and Morris' works. The background which got an idea from Arts and Crafts Movement was used the wooden block first, but it sees too boring. Therefore, I changed to the cirrus instead of wood. Cirrus can be softer and better. The foreground got an idea from kimono. I drew the fan of skills which are between reality and imagination. These fans are also full into small drawing samples. There are also contrasting colours.
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This project is based on the Edo period and Arts & Crafts Movement. I made the tradition and modern together. I used contrasting colour to be the main pigment, and traditional patterns and cirrus to be the main objects. The products' idea is silk scarf. It is from two parts: the one is square silk scarf and another one is large silk scarf. I did the illustration with two parts. I tried to use the material of silk. It is soft and colourful. I think contrasting colours are suitable for scarf which is decoration for ladies. The square scarf is the usual product to be decoration. It needs shinning colour to enhance fashion. On the other hand, I would like another purpose. Dress is important for women and they would want to many different types of dress to show theirselves. Using scarf to be dress can change styles simply, and cut down the consummation. Besides, scarf can make many different ways, so you can choice the best one to fit yourself. 42
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AOYA. 2014. History of Washi. [Online]. [Accessed 31 Oct 2009]. Available from: http://www.aoyawashi.co.jp/about-2#rekishi Cigalle, H. 2006. The cutting edge of wallpaper. London : Black Dog Publishing. Comfy Crown. 2014. 2014 new Autumn and winter scarf SWW281 wholesale scarf Long large shawl 100% wool pashmina shawl High quality scarf. [Online]. [Accessed 29 Oct 2014]. Available from: http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/Girl-s-Autumn-and-winter-Long-and-large-all-matched-plain100- wool-pashmina-shawl-with/1488241845.html# Earle, J. 1986. Japanese art and design. London : Victoria and Albert Museum. Etsy. 2014. Artinsilk. [Online]. [Accessed 29 Oct 2014]. Available from: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/128841415/white-silk-chiffon-scarf-long-sheer100?ref=related-3 Fiell, C. & Fiell, P. 1999. William Morris. London : Taschen. Guth, C. 1996. Art of Edo Japan - The Artist and the City 1615-1868. New York: H.N. Abrams Nikovskis, A. 1974. Introduction. In: Noma, S. Japanese Costume and Textile Arts. New York: Weatherhill. Pinterest. 2014. Hermes Scarves. [Online]. [Accessed 31 Oct 2009]. Available from: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/hermes-scarves/ Textile Designers. 2014. John Henry Dearle. [Online]. [Accessed 31 Oct 2009]. Available from: http://belovedlinens.net/textdesign/jh-dearle.php The Metropolitan Museum of Art Store. 2014. William Morris. [Online]. [Accessed 31 Oct 2009]. Available from: http://store.metmuseum.org/search?q=william+morris&searchsubmit.x=1087&searchsubmit.y=-148&searchsubmit=GO V&A. 2014. William Morris & Wallpaper Design. [Online]. [Accessed 31 Oct 2009]. Available from: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/w/william-morris-and-wallpaper-design/ 43
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