Project 5 pattern design for ladies' fashion

critical journal

module code: desn3356

name: JINGSI WANG student no.: 200733591

CONTENTS

2

Brief description

3

Design trend

4

Market research Colour analysis Fashion S/S 2016 research & Inspiration research

5 6 10

Development design Motif Texture & Background Technique Laser-cut inspiration

15 16 32 36 44

Collection divisions Collection one Collection two

50 51 69

Final design

87

Conclusion

118

Reference list

119

Figure list

120

BRIEF DESCRIPTION The aim of this project is to examine how to use Chinese traditional work into contemporary fashion design. During the long history, there is a wide range of pattern and technique to be inherited. Nevertheless, some traditional patterns is not suitable for contemporary fashion design, so it needs some creations to help traditional pattern to be more suitable for the present era.

This project will be divided to two collections including the theme of classical and ethereal for Chinese market and the theme of lace for UK market, targeting for young ladies’ dresses or skirts in summer 2016. Different market will use different material and technique to close to two areas. Both of them will use Chinese style or pattern. It has followed the top 10 colours from pantone fashion colour report in S/S 2016.

The theme of collection one is ‘Flower symbolism’ for Chinese market. It is following the Chinese fashion trend – classical and ethereal style which is showed by traditional work of Chinese traditional painting style. In china, each flower has their own symbolism like flower language. I chose five different symbolism flowers to be the primary idea. According to these symbolisms, I will add some simple pattern with a similar meaning as them. And making the background apply for water and ink painting to connect with the trend. However, it is for contemporary fashion, it also needs some contemporary factor to manage pattern design, so it will renew the structures from some contemporary artists. About material, it would like to use chiffon, silk and thin and soft satin which are the most famous fabric in spring and summer season in China.

The theme of collection two is ‘Chinese porcelain’, but it is following the western fashion trend 2016 – lace for UK market. This inspiration is from artists of Suzy Menkes who reviews a fashion design collection with the theme for ‘looking for Chinese glasses’. And according to Alberta Ferretti fashion collection in 2011, the vital colour is for Chinese yellow. Thus, I got inspiration from them, and I decided my collection two to be based on porcelain. For colour, it will be based on the 2016 colour trend, and I will chose the similar colour as Chinese porcelain to complete the colour design. Because of this collection is for UK market, it will provide some western factor in pattern design, based on some visual and artist research. About material, it would like to use silk and cotton for the main idea because of the weather.

About technique, this project will imitate traditional technique like indigo printing, tie dying, Chinese traditional realistic painting and embroidery and etc., connecting with new technique together like watercolour drawing, marbling ink printing and lacer-cut and etc. Another element of texture, this project will provide two texture styles of watercolour printing and marbling ink printing.

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DESIGN TREND Chinese trend - classical and ethereal

Fig.1 S DEER current product

Fig.2 Origin current product

According to Chinese spring and summer fashion 2016 trend research, I chose classical and ethereal style for collection one design trend. This design trend connects with Chinese traditional drawing skill of water and ink paintings. For summer dress or skirt, it will have a soft and fresh feeling via rhythmic texture pattern with gradient colours.

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UK trend - lace

Fig.3 Elie saab current product

Fig.4 Elie saab current product

Lace is a global trend for spring and summer fashion 2016. Lace design is a traditional design style in the western history, which of them usually apply for decorations in fashion design, such as dress border, cuff or the top level on the fabric. Therefore, I decided lace as the theme for my collection two for UK market where it is suitable for western style. This collection will connect with lacer-cut machine to complete works.

MARKET RESEARCH This stage is the original inspiration and some current products are from physical company or vogue fashion research, which is the basic research for my design trend.

Then it will start from some research to provide a colour analysis to explain the reason why I want to choose these colours to complete my design.

colour analysis

In this season, colour pantone’s designer have gravitated toward a palette that is first and foremost calming. They focus on natural resources, and the important of spring colour is relaxation, curiosity and exploration. This is 10 top colours for fashion in spring and summer 2016 from pantone fashion colour report.

This colour palette is a unisex palette. Each colour owns different attraction and reason to help fashion design better.

Fig.5 Top 10 fashion colours from Pantone

My design will be based on the ten colours and they will connect with Pinterest colour match sample which is the supplementary for fashion design. The colour of these design will also have Chinese style because the theme of the project is Chinese traditional design, so I will think about them together to provide a suitable colour for two elements.

Rose Quartz is like a serene sunset, flushed cheek or budding flower, which can remind us to enjoy the spring and summer months in the busy society. It is a leader for the soothing, calming nature of colours palette. Peach Echo is a friendly colour, which is an allencompassing, tempered companion in the playful orange family. Serenity is a transcendeWnt blue, which can provide a calming effect, bringing a feeling even a naturally connected sense of space.Snorkel Blue is a maritime-inspired blue, which can give a relaxing vacation and encourages escape. Buttercup can reveal a shining beacon transporting its wearer to a happier, sunnier place. Limpet Shell is clear, clean and defined, which have a mindful tranquility. Lilac Gray is an essentially and basic colour, so it is a classic gray shade. Fiesta is a high energy colour. The vivid colour is a stark contrast to the calming, calming, softer nature of this season’s palette. Iced Coffee is a transitional colour, which is another strong neutral for the season. Green Flash is an openness colour for nature, which influence urban environments, a trend continuing to inspire designers.

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colour analysis

Fig.6 Fashion samples of Top 10 colours

Fig.7 Fashion samples of Top 10 colours

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colour analysis

Fig.8 Colour trend

Fig.9 Colour trend

Fig.13 Chinese painting

Fig.10 Colour trend

Fig.11 Colour trend

Fig.14 Tie dye

Fig.12 Colour trend

Image.1 Indigo dye

This page of colour research is for collection one which is for Chinese market. There are five colour matches from Pinterest colour trend 2016, which is based on top 10 colours to process a new colour palette. This collection will also be combined with Chinese traditional colours together for linking the theme of Chinese flower symbolism.

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colour analysis

Fig.18 Colour trend

Fig.19 Colour trend Fig.24 Famille-rose porcelain

Fig.17 Colour trend Fig.23 Celadon porcelain

Fig.22 Chinese red porcelain

Fig.16 Colour trend Fig.21 Chinese yellow porcelain

Fig.20 White and blue porcelain

Fig.15 Colour trend

This page of colour research is for collection two is for UK market, but the theme is decided the Chinese porcelain, so I will choose the similar colours of porcelain as 10 top colours to be the main colour. There are five colour matches from Pinterest colour trend 2016, which is based on top 10 colours to process a new colour palette and all of them can be found colour sample from Chinese porcelain.

This is theme for collection two.

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fashion S/S 2016 research COLLECTION ONE

Fig.25 Origin current product

Fig.26 Origin current product

Fig.27 S DEER current product

Fig.28 S DEER current product

These fashion is the S/S 2016 research from Chinese fashion brand of Origin and S.DEER which is the popular young ladies brand in China. Both of them would like to create fashion with traditional style. In this season, the theme of them is ethereal and rhythm.

Origin propose to catch classical and nice tradition in 2016. And S.DEER, its design always companies with water and ink printing.

There is using Chinese traditional painting’s style for fashion design which provide a good inspiration for this project.

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inspiration research

Fig.29 Zhaoping Deng's fashion

Fig.30 Zhaoping Deng's fashion

Fig.31 Qipao

Fig.32 Qipao

The inspiration of collection one is from Zhaoping Deng who is a women’s fashion designer. Her works are always combined with Chinese traditional pattern and techniques. Nevertheless, she said, she would like to use something traditional, but she also make contemporary design, so she will use some modern sectors to combine with traditional pattern together. In her design, people can be found the shadow of tradition, but it is also suitable for the contemporary. Another hand, I found some research from qipao which is the Chinese traditional fashion that usually used Chinese flower to be the motif by classical techniques. Therefore, connecting with them, I decided my pattern design with flowers’ motif, and used their symbolism to the theme for each design.

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fashion S/S 2016 research COLLECTION TWO

Fig.33 Elie saab current product

Fig.34 Elie saab current product

Fig.35 Elie saab current product

Fig.36 Elie saab current product

These fashions are S/S 2016 collection from Elie Saab. In this season, one important trend of it is lace design fashion. There are many different styles of lace fashion design which become my inspiration. And the last figure is an abstract pattern fashion which support for my texture idea.

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inspiration research Fig.38 White and blue porcelain fashion design

Fig.37 Chinese porcelain fashion design The theme of collection two is ‘Chinese porcelain’. This inspiration is from an artist, Suzy Menkes who reviews a fashion design collection whose theme is ‘looking for Chinese glasses’ made by Guo Pei who is a Chinese fashion designer. She made this display in New York and obtain some inspiration for western brand in 2011 like Alexander McQueen. There is an evening dress based on blue and white porcelain. The idea of colours and pattern is from this porcelain. Therefore, I imitated this inspiration for my collection two, but I want to use some western pattern for UK market, so the next page shows some designers how to Chinese traditional work in western fashion designs.

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Fig.41 Robert Cavalli's fashion

inspiration research

Fig.39 Alberta Ferretti's fashion

Fig.40 Chinese yellow porcelain

Fig.42 Blue and white porcelain There are three fashion designer used Chinese traditional pattern or colours for their designs.

Among of them, designers of Tadashi Shoji (fig.43) and Robert Cavalli (fig.41) mentions that their work use for reference of porcelains, which can combine with Chinese red porcelain and blue and white porcelain, but Alberta Ferretti (fig.39) fashion that just used the vital colour of Chinese yellow without mention of the resource of inspiration. According to their works and connection with Guo Bel’s designs, I want to complete this collection based on porcelains, but this is a challenge for UK market. Thus, I will investigate some western designers how to use Chinese traditional pattern in their fashion design.

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Fig.43 Tadashi Shoji's fashion

Fig.44 Chinese red porcelain

developemnt design This stage is one step to process my final design. It combines with design technique and some design details including texture, motif, and background, based on visual research, artist research, and some pattern design research from fashion.

motif Mica Kinoshita

Fig.47 Mica Kinoshita watercolour painting Mica Kinoshita is a watercolour illustration artist from Japan. His painting is usually about flowers.

Watercolour can draw painting with a gradient colours easily, and it will have a soft and ethereal feeling. There are some samples of Mica Kinoshita’s watercolour drawing. All of them has a gradient colour drawing, and the more changeable and detailed colours provide an ethereal atmosphere. It is suitable for my collection trend research. Watercolour flower drawing is one type for my motif design which can match design main colours and styles.

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Fig.45 Mica Kinoshita watercolour painting

Fig.46 Mica Kinoshita watercolour painting

interpretation

Fig.48 Yulan photography I learnt this way for draw yulan flower which is for collection one design. This drawing is based on visual research of yulan photography. Firstly, I drew a completed branch of flowers, but it is not easy for making a comfortable composition. At finally, I drew them one by one which can be simply to manage them together. And then, there will be digital adjustment, which will help watercolour show a more gradient colour levels.

Image.2 Watercolour drawing

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motif Green mandala

Fig.49 Green Mandala

Fig.50 Green Mandala

Fig.51 Green Mandala

Mandala is a spiritual and ritual symbol in Indian religions, representing the universe, and in the Tibetan branch, mandalas have been developed into sand painting. They used this way to build their universe models based on the Vajrayana knowledges. There are four different green mandalas. All of them is not the traditional mandalas from Tibetan Buddhism, and it is an extended pattern art for decorative design. They are combined with natural plants and geometric pattern which also can stand for universe. They have a regular layout and a beautiful colour match. It used line and plane drawing together to get a better result.

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Fig.52 Green Mandala

interpretation

Fig.54 Green Datura

Fig.53 Green Datura

Fig.55 Green Datura In my green mandala drawing, it completed with green Datura and geometries by digital.

I used green colour blood to finish them, and used gradient colour to perfect colour for pattern design better.

Image.3 Green Mandala digital drawing

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motif Embroidery

Fig.56 Embroidery

Fig.57 Embroidery

Fig.58 Embroidery

Embroidery is Chinese traditional culture or skill. It has an exquisite image and realistic style. The needlework compete a live flower or animal. There can be found many details with a tiny changeable colour and shape.

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interpretation

Fig.62 Magpie Fig.59 Leiothrix lutea

Image.4 Leiothrix colour pencil drawing Image.5 Plum blossom colour pencil drawing

Fig.60 Plum blossom

Fig.61 Plum blossom

Image.6 Magpie colour pencil drawing I used colour pencil to study this technique.

Colour pencil is a good tool to draw motif that has any tiny changeable colour. I drew birds with this way, because birds have more changeable colours of their feather. Colour pencil can imitate feather with a gradient colour.

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motif Zhongyao Zhou

Fig.63 Claborate-style painting

Fig.64 Claborate-style painting

Fig.65 Claborate-style painting

Fig.66 Claborate-style painting

Zhongyao zhou is a claborate-style painting artist from Hunan, China. His works is usually for plants and birds and he would like to use natural and vivid style for drawing. The most of his works have a fine line drawing with strong comparative colours and overlapped layers. People can find quiet and warm from his works. There are some samples with peony paintings. All of them has an attractive and contrasting colours. The misty background set off the foreground flowers to get a better feeling to attract people’s eyes.

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Fig.67 Claborate-style painting

interpretation

Image.8 Peony digital drawing This time, I did not used hand drawing for peony to imitate this style. I used digital drawing to instead of it. This original flower shape is based on peony photography (image.7). And image.8 is the sample for digital peony drawing.

Image.7 Peony photography

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motif Tattoo pattern

Fig.68 Tatto pattern

Fig.69 Tatto pattern

Fig.70 Tatto pattern

Tattoo is a fork traditional technique. In this design, I chose this style’s pattern for my design motif inspiration. And I used mark pen to draw them, which can have a lighter and clearer colours. These samples have a similar colour of yellow, orange and red, which is also my vital colour for collection two design.

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interpretation

Image.9 Mark pen drawing

Image.10 Trace drawing

Image.9 is the mark pen drawing by hand, and image.10 is after trace tool from illustrator.

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motif Indigo dye & Tie dye

Image.11 Indigo dye

Image.12 Indigo dye

Image.13 Indigo dye Indigo dye and tie dye are two Chinese traditional technique for dying fabric. Indigo dye used original folk fabric with indigo plants to complete products. It is a natural and old style to produce fabric. For tie dye, it will tie white fabric first, and the different types’ tying will show various pattern.

Then, these tie fabric will put into indigo ink. When plaining these fabric, it will have a special texture pattern.

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Fig.71 Tie dye

Fig.72 Tie dye

interpretation

Fig.73 Wisteria

Fig.74 Wisteria Image.14 Wistaria positive and negative drawing Image.15 Honeysuckle stem drawing

Indigo dye and tie dye’s pattern has a positive and negative style. I will use this style of pattern for my design. And it is a good way to create laser-cut pattern. There is sample of wisteria positive and negative drawing (image.14) which is based on wisteria photography (fig.73 and fig.74).

Image.16 Positive and negative drawing

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motif William Morris William Morris is a famous English artist in art and craft movement. His design is usually combined with different plants.

Amount of these designs, cirrus is an obvious pattern design.

And his works obtain an obvious western style which is suitable for my collection style. The traditional feeling can link to Chinese traditional pattern. Both of them can have a balance in design.

Fig.75 William Morris wallpaper design

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Fig.76 William Morris wallpaper design

Fig.77 William Morris wallpaper design

Fig.78 William Morris wallpaper design

interpretation

There are some sample drawings based on William Morris pattern design for laser-cut motif.

Image.17 Drawing based on William Morris

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motif Johanna Basford

Fig.79 Jhanna Basford's drawing

Fig.80 Jhanna Basford's drawing

Fig.81 Jhanna Basford's drawingFig.82 Jhanna Basford's wallpaper

Johanna Basford is an artist from Scotland. Her work usually companies with a curious imagination and a delight by hand drawn line. She said, “computer generated graphics can feel cold and soulless whereas hand drawing captures a sense of energy and character which no pixel can ever replicate”, so her works always used hand drawn black line to complete more and more designs. I like these line drawing, and all of them can be found different mood when you drawing various objects. There are some works from Johanna Basford. All of them combined with difficult black drawing, and among of them is based on various types’ plants. I will study this style of drawing to complete my pattern design based on flowers, leaves and cirrus.

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Fig.83 Jhanna Basford's drawing

interpretation

Image.18 is my own hand drawing with black lines. I used different plants as the basic objects and then completing them together with a regular shape of circle. All of them will become the base for my damask pattern design.

Image.18 Drawing based on Jhanna Basford

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texture & Background Agnes Cecile

Fig.84 Agnes Cecile watercolour drawing

Fig.86 Agnes Cecile watercolour drawing Agnes Cecile, a watercolour artist, would like to use colourful watercolour to draw some figure pictures. Any painting has obvious texture. It gives the inspiration of texture design. And her works’ colour is very beautiful.

I study this colour match for my own texture drawing. I would like to use watercolour to imitate Chinese traditional painting’s gradient colours. The changeable colours can help pattern to be more interesting.

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Fig.85 Agnes Cecile watercolour drawing

interpretation Water and ink Printing I used two ways to learn drawing this texture. The first is using ink and another is using watercolour.

Ink cannot mix colours together easily, and most of these drawing does not have an obvious texture.

Therefore, I used watercolour for drawing texture, because it is easy to control colours and can have a more colourful painting.

There are colour styles of black colour and others’ colours. Both of them can complete a nice background.

Image.19 Watercolour texture

Image.21 Watercolour texture

Image.20 Watercolour background

Image.22 Watercolour background

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texture &Background Elie Saab

Fig.87 Elie saab

Fig.88 Elie saab

Fig.89 Elie saab details

This research is fashion design from Elie Saab in 2016. This is abstract fashion pattern design. I chose this type for my texture idea for my collection design which decide western market. The texture with a comparison colour with an irregular management.

This style can connect with marbling ink printing. Therefore, I taste to use marbling ink to create my collection two’s design. Most of background is based on them.

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interpretation Marbling ink printing

Image.22 Marbling ink printing

Image.23 Marbling ink background

In marbling ink experience, I used some contrasting colours to produce texture pattern, and then processing colour reduction. The single colour will show a gradient colour based on a same colour, and colourful marbling ink will display more attractive colours with accident colour match.

Image.24 Marbling ink background

Image.25 Marbling ink background

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technique Colour pencil drawing Pencil is a good tool to draw motif, which can provide painting with many changeable colour.

Embroidery is Chinese traditional culture or skill, which has an introduction in the motif part. Embroidery’s tiny colour change provide an inspiration for me, and I decided to use colour pencil to study this way. Using colour pencil to help drawing can have more details on colour and shape. And colour pencil is a simple tool to control the drawing page.

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Fig.90 Embroidery

Fig.91 Embroidery

interpretation

I drew birds with this way, because birds have more changeable colours of their feather. Colour pencil can imitate feather with a gradient colour. I used colour pencil to provide a better realistic drawing.

Fig.92 Leiothrix lutea

Fig.93 Magpie

Image.26 Leiothrix colour pencil drawing

Image.27 Magpie colour pencil drawing

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technique Watercolour and ink drawing

Fig.94 Agnes Cecile watercolour drawing

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Fig.95 Agnes Cecile watercolour drawing

Fig.96 Tie dye

Fig.97 Tie dye

This technique is from my collection one trend research - classical and ethereal. I would like to build an ethereal atmosphere through Chinese traditional painting style, but I will use watercolour and ink printing to complete this drawing. This inspiration is from market research of S.DEER which has a gradient colour for pattern design. There are two essential technique with watercolour and ink drawing.

The first is Agnes Cecile’s watercolour drawing. Her painting has obvious texture with beautiful colours. I study this colour match for my own texture drawing. Another is tie dye texture, this type of texture has a free shape and concaveconvex outline. This style can provide an idea with single colour texture drawing.

interpretation

Image.28 Watercolour texture drawing

Image.29 Watercolour texture drawing on tissue paper

There are three different ways for watercolour texture drawing. Image.30 is drawn by ink. Ink cannot mix colours together easily, and most of these drawing does not have an obvious texture. Image.29 is used by watercolour on tissue paper. I wanted to use tissue paper with a dip-dye feeling. However, it did not get a good result. Therefore, I used watercolour for drawing texture, because it is easy to control colours and can show a more colourful painting.

Image.30 Ink texture drawing

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technique Chinese painting

Fig.98 Chinese painting

Fig.99 Chinese painting

Chinese painting has two vital style. The first is freehand painting which is unreal drawing and the most of motif drawing is based on people’s imagenation and thoughts, like fig.98 and fig.99.

The second one is claborate-style painting which will have realistic drawing during a lone time. The most of motif is based on real objects, like fig.100 and fig.101. There are two samples as the inspiration for my design. According to these styles, I extended to use another ways or tools to complete design with this result.

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Fig.100 Claborate-style painting

Fig.101 Claborate-style painting

interpretation

Image.31 Blossom with Chinese painting style Image.32 Tree branch with Chinese painting style

Image.33 Blossom design background

Image.31 to image.33 is the freehand painting style with plum blossom drawing. I did not draw a completed painting. I tried to draw objects one by one first, and then making them together by computer (image.33). The image.33 is a background for one design.

Image.34 imitated claborate-style painting by digital drawing. This motif is finished by photoshop. I used software to obtain a result with gradient colour. The digital drawing is a quick way for drawing.

Image.34 Peony digital drawing

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technique Laser-cut Fig.103 Joana Vasconcelos

Laser-cut is the main part for collection two. According to my market research from Elie Saab 2016 fashion, the most of design is based on lace cutting. Thus, I caught some ideas of some lace design or products from different artists. I found laser-cut style, composition and motif from them to create a new design for my own pattern. The more details will introduce in the next element of laser-cut inspiration.

Fig.102 Joana Vasconcelos

Fig.104 Joana Vasconcelos Fig.110 Tadashi Shoji

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Fig.105 Roberto Cavalli

Fig.106 Elie saab Fig.107 Elie saab Fig.108 Elie saab

Fig.109 Tadashi Shoji

interpretation

Image.35 Laser-cut design

Image.37 Laser-cut design

Image.39 Laser-cut design

Image.36 Laser-cut photography

Image.38 Laser-cut photography

Image.40 Laser-cut photography

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Laser-cut inspiration Joana Vasconcelos

Fig.111 Joana Vasconcelos

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Fig.112 Joana Vasconcelos

Joana Vasconcelos is a France artist.

The nature of her creative process is based on the appropriation and subversion of pre-existent objects and everyday realities. Her works of sculptures and installations reveal of an acute sense of scale and mastery of colour. I really like her knit installation works. All of these works has beautiful pattern which is hand-making work.

The exquisite pattern decorate these boring objects to be interesting. Every lace pattern is like a painting covering objects.

Fig.113 Joana Vasconcelos

interpretation

According to the research, I will imitate this way for my laser-cut design. This fashion pattern design will have two level, and the foreground laser-cut pattern is like a painting.

The background is covered by the lasercut pattern. Between every obvious motif, there are many thin thread to connect these motif of lotus or dragonflies together. This design is the decoration for background, but both of them can provide a better design.

Image.41 Laser-cut design

Image.42 Laser-cut photography

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Laser-cut inspiration Roberto Cavalli

Fig.114 Roberto Cavalli Roberto Cavalli is an Italian fashion designer. His famous design is exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans. These group of design is his S/S 2013 works for women. The main factor of this design is ‘amp’. These fashion is loose and sexy but not brash, which of them can be look through because of the engraving style. It is can be fresher, lighter and more modern. The most of them is a decoration in fashion design. I will use this style in my laser-cut collection. I will catch their inspiration and composition to complete my laser-cut pattern design.

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interpretation

The lasercut pattern of image.43 and 44 are a decoration for design. The foreground is a looking-through pattern covered background.

Combining with the background, it can become a completed story pattern. The lasercut pattern of image.45 and 46 have two levels.

The foreground pattern uses transparent material to help the colourful background design. this way can help the background colour to be more layering.

Image.43 Laser-cut design

Image.45 Laser-cut design

Image.44 Laser-cut photography

Image.46 Laser-cut photography

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Laser-cut inspiration Tadashi Shoji

Fig.115 Tadashi Shoji

Fig.116 Tadashi Shoji

Tadashi Shoji is an American-based Japanese fashion designer and the creator. He is particularly known for his red carpet gowns and evening wear. There are two different style of fashion design. Fig.115 is S/S 2016 fashion work for women. It has a simple colour with difficult texture and motif types. These two design has a tactile feeling with the flowers on fashion. Fig.116 is another group of design style. Each fashion design has similar colour with difficult lase or laser-cut pattern. All of them is a horizontal straight composition. Both of them provide my laser-cut inspiration.

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interpretation

Image.47 and 48 imitate fig.116, which have a horizontal straight composition, and every straight pattern has a group of laser-cut design. It has a similar colour like fig.116. Image.49 and 50 imitate another style of fashion design fig.115. This way, I just imitate the inspiration.

There is using another way to provide tactile feeling design. It used butterfly motif, which have a tactile feeling like butterflies flying in flowers.

Image.47 Laser-cut design

Image.49 Laser-cut design

Image.48 Laser-cut photography

Image.50 Laser-cut photography

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Collection divisons This stage is an outline to introduce two collections, including introduction and each design description. For every design, it will show inspiration of composition, texture, background and motif design. In the whole work.

Collection one

Collection one is based on Chinese traditional and popular flowers as primary inspiration, combining with flower symbolism together. It is for Chinese market with women’s dresses and skirts, including Chinese traditional dress – qipao in S/S 2016.

introduction

Fig.117 S DEER

Fig.118 S DEER

Fig.119 Origin

The theme of collection one is ‘Flower Symbolism’. Each flower has their own symbolism like flower language. There are five Chinese traditional and popular flowers as primary idea – the meaning of yulan is happiness and wonderful life; plum blossom as ringleader of flowers is for elegant and lofty represent; peony as the king of flowers means wealth and auspicious; the symbolism of wisteria stand for eternal or forever; and green Datura as a special flower in Buddhism represent for hope. This collection will have a Chinese market, so the collection style will be based on two Chinese fashion companies of S.DEER and Origin which provide water and Fig.200 Origin ink printing style for 2016 S/S new fashion products. Thus, collection one will use with water and ink printing technique to provide classical and ethereal style for whole designs.

In addition, it will catch some ideas from Zhaoping Deng’s fashion design whose fashion inspiration always connects with Chinese traditional history, and some qipao’s pattern design which is a Chinese traditional fashion for women. Both of them help me to analyse how to use Chinese traditional design for contemporary fashion. For colour, each design has their own main colour which is from colour analysis, based on top 10 colour research, but designs will also combine with traditional ideas together.

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Fig.201 Zhaoping Deng Fig.202 Zhaoping Deng

Fig.203 Qipao

Fig.204 Qipao

introduction For the part of technique, all of them will use Chinese traditional style from Chinese painting. Water and ink printing with watercolours is the same texture type for collection one. Nevertheless, it will use watercolour for designing instead of Chinese painting’s pigments to get results. There are two watercolour artists of Fig.205 Embroidery Agnes Cecile and Mica Kinoshita as technique research to provide inspiration for texture and motif works. And then, it will also find techniques from some Chinese traditional art, including embroidery, tie dye, indigo dye, and Chinese traditional painting.

Because it is for contemporary fashion design, the five designs will use contemporary artists or designers’ design composition, and some modern patterns for Fig.208 Claborate-style painting motif creation.

Fig.206 Embroidery

Fig.209 Chinese painting

Fig.207 Tie dye

Fig.210 Green Mandala

Collection one is for Chinese S/S market 2016. There will be used chiffon and thin satin to be the main materials which is the most popular fabric in summer in China.

It is comfortable and ventilate.

Fig.211 Agnes Cecile

Fig.212Agnes Cecile Fig.213 Mica Kinoshita

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design one Yulan - Happiness & wonderful life Yulan is a popular flower used in eastern pattern design. In China, it means happiness and wonderful life. It is also a suitable flower to describe women, because of historical phrase of ‘bing qing yu jie’ which means purity and elegant. According to the primary meaning of wonderful life, I used the Chinese knot which also stands for happy life for family to be the decoration in background.

The motif of bird, I chose leiothrix lutea that is from the visual research of photography of yulan flower and leiothrix lutea. It used colour pencil drawing to provide feather’s feeling. And then for the colour, because of the meaning of happiness, I chose pink with warm colour match for design. According to Jason Wu fashion, it has a similar colour with background and motif. I changed the birds’ colour to pink. The design composition is from Louise Body, which is a straight composition.

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Fig.214 Yulan photography

Fig.215 Leiothrix lutea

Fig.216 Knot

Fig.217 Colour inspiration Fig.218 Composition inspiration

design one

Image.52 Design background

Image.53 Previous design

These are details of final fashion design. The main of design motif are birds and yulan flowers. There are two techniques of pencil colours drawing for showing more details of feather, and watercolour drawing for displaying more gradient levels as mid-ground. The background used water and ink printing with watercolour, and Chinese knot for decoration together. Image.53 is the previous work foe design one. It is just based on yulan’s primary colour with a chaotic composition, resulting the background and foreground digressively.

Next, I renew design’s structure with a regular straight layout, and tried to change flowers’ colours to get a balance match with background. Therefore, the final work, I chose yellow flower with pink birds which is warm colour match to fit the theme.

Image.51 Design motif

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design one

Fig.219 Colour inspiration

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Image.54 Design

Image.55 Design detail

Image.56 Design colourway

design two Plum blossom - Ringleader of flowers, Elegant and lofty Plum blossom as ringleader of flowers is for elegant and lofty represent. Plum blossom has a lofty status in Chinese history. It usually appeared in Chinese traditional painting and some pattern design. This design is based on Chinese traditional painting of plum blossom with magpies called ‘Xi shang mei shao’ (Fig.222) which is a historical phrase symbolised for good fortune. This design combined with Zhaoping Deng’s fashion for composition and design inspiration, deciding to use the traditional painting technique to finish motif. The bird is called magpie which is often matched with plum blossom. And the colour used red and black to be the main idea. Red is Chinese traditional colour and also the top 10 fashion in 2016. And I want to imitate the atmosphere of water and ink painting, so I chose black for matching colour.

Fig.220 Motif inspiration Fig.222 Technique inspiration

Fig.221 Motif inspiration

Fig.223 Magpie

Fig.224 Magpie

Fig.225 Technique inspiration

Fig.226 Design inspiration

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design two

Image.59 Previous design

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Image.57 Design background

Image.58 Design motif

Image.57 is the background of design which is just black and white. It imitates the Chinese traditional water and ink painting colour. The tree branches used Chinese painting’s technique for drawing. It is for matching plum blossom. And magpies’ drawings are also used pencil colours techiqnue which can show more details. Image.59 is the previous design. First of this design has a flat pattern layout. It used algae pattern to be the background because of the meaning of purity. The standing birds and single flower are boring. Then, I gave up algae pattern to choose Chinese traditional painting’s technique to draw plum blossom and branches. It looks more dramatic and interesting. It inherited the theory of Chinese traditional painting of an obvious comparison with sparse place and crowded place to make the composition.

design two

Fig.227 Colour inspiration

Image.60 Design

Image.61 Design detail

Image.62 Design colourway

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design three Peony - The king of flowers, wealth and auspicious Peony is the king of flowers which is national flower in China, and it means wealth and auspicious. This design is based on the claborate-style painting and qipao pattern design of peony. There is black for background and the thread pattern for decoration to create a result of fog weather which provide a mysterious and quiet feeling. It studied the atmosphere of the painting fig.228. The motif drawing of peony also studied the way of fig.228 which is an exquisite style in Chinese art. The composition inspiration is Louise Body’s fabric design which combined with different colourful flowers. In addition, butterfly is a regular matching object with peony, and it also stands for auspicious.

Fig.229 Composition inspiration

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Fig.228 Technique inspiration

Fig.230 Motif inspiration

Image.63 Motif inspiration peony

Fig.231 Design inspiration

design three

Image.65 Design background

Image.66 Previous design

Image.65 is the background of design which is used black for main colour.

There are two colours of dark blue and white for decoration to create a mysterious and quiet atmosphere. It would like to use claborate-style painting’s technique for designing motif, but it is not hand drawing. I used digital drawing to instead of original way. Image.66 is the previous design. It is also used black for background colour, but the motif used another style of Chinese painting for drawing. There is digressive between the background and foreground, and the white or light colours on motif looks like blemish with background. Thus, I changed the way of drawing motifs and the background just used black with thread brush drawing without some grey mark decoration.

Image.64 Design motif

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design three

Fig.232 Colour inspiration

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Image.67 Design

Image.68 Design detail

Image.69 Design colourway

design four Wisteria - Eternal and forever Wisteria is not an elegant flower in Chinese history, but it usually appears in folk story and fashion. It means eternal and forever.

Wisteria usually blooms in spring, so it can make people to associate youth. Thus, this pattern is suitable for young people. Another pattern (fig.234) is honeysuckle flower pattern which also has the meaning of eternal, so I make them together to complete this design. This design is based on tie dye (fig.235) and indigo dye’s (image.70) colours and technique for inspiration. Both of them just has two colours of white and blue, which display the pattern with positive and negative type. For colour inspiration, this blue is top 10 colour in 2016, which is a Chinese traditional colour for pattern design.

Image.70 Technique inspiration

Fig.233 Motif inspiration

Fig.234 Motif inspiration

Fig.235 Technique inspiration

Fig.236 Design inspiration

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design four

Image.72 Design motif

Image.73 Previous design

Image.71 is the background of the design. It is also based on water and ink texture printing. There is used software of nedgraphic to complete. The background mixed honeysuckle flowers and texture together, which will create a comfortable feeling with background and mid-ground. The foreground motif used positive and negative style to catch the idea from indigo dye’s pattern. Imgae.73 is the previous design. It has a similar background with different foreground motif.

It used wisteria pattern to complete a flower with white colour, but it is not suitable for the background composition with horizontal composition. Thus, I changed the motifs’ colour for light blue and make the composition for a horizontal type like blooming wisteria in the nature.

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Image.71 Design background

design four

Fig.237 Colour inspiration

Image.74 Design

Image.75 Design detail

Image.76 Design colourway

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design five Green Datura - Hope Datura is not only a traditional flower in China, which is a special flower in Tibetan Buddhism. Green Datura has own meaning of hope which is a good word for present world. This is the reason why I used this flower for my primary design. Mandala is a spiritual and ritual symbol in Indian religions, representing the universe, and in the Tibetan branch, mandalas have been developed into sand painting. They used this way to build their universe models based on the Vajrayana knowledges. And green mandala in some drawing art, it usually completes with green Datura, so I drawing some mandala by myself from green Datura. This design composition is used damask style, and get the inspiration from Johanna Basford whose design of damask has different story for each circle. Therefore, I combined with mandala and Johanna Basford damask pattern together to create a damask pattern with different mandala circle drawing.

Fig.239 Motif inspiration Fig.240 Motif inspiration

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Fig.238 Composition inspiration

Fig.241 Motif inspiration

Fig.242 Motif inspiration

Fig.244 Motif inspiration

Fig.243 Motif inspiration

Fig.245 Motif inspiration

design five

Image.77 Design background

Image.79 Design motif Image.77 is the background of design which is also used water and ink texture printing with another colours. And the mandalas used digital drawing which is based on geometries and some Datura’s drawing. The previous design of image.78 is not more different with final design. There is just different with composition of damask layout. I tried various layout of circles, then deciding a comfortable composition at last.

Image.78 Previous design

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design five

Fig.246 Colour inspiration

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Image.80 Design

Image.81 Design detail

Image.82 Design colourway

Collection two

Collection two is based on Chinese porcelain for primary inspiration, combining with some western style’s details for UK market. It is for women’s dresses and skirts, including evening dress in S/S 2016.

introduction The theme of collection two is ‘Lace fashion’.

Lace is one fashion trend for UK market in 2016, so all of designs will connect with lace style by lacer-cut machine. According to the market research of Elie Saab in S/S 2016 fashion. Some of them is used lace for the vital style. Thus, my lacer-cut technique and pattern design will be based on them.

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Fig.247 Elie saab

Fig.248 Elie saab

Fig.249 Elie saab

Fig.251 Guo Pei

Fig.252 Guo Pei

Fig.253 Guo Pei

The inspiration is ‘Chinese porcelain’. This inspiration is from Gou Bel’s fashion design exhibition of ‘Through the Looking Glass’ which is based on Chinese famous porcelain of blue and white porcelain for idea to create a new style of evening dress. She used Chinese porcelain Fig.250 Elie saab to show fashion. In addition, this style of fashion also is used by other designers like Roberto Cavalli and Tadashi Shoji. Both of them used this way to create contemporary fashion design.

In this collection, I imitate this style for five designs based on five different porcelain. Each of porcelain has their own special colours and symbolisms. Blue and white porcelain stands for dignified and elegant. Yellow is a traditional colour in Chinese history, which symbolises royal, so Chinese yellow porcelain also means royal. Red as another traditional colour, Chinese red porcelain stand for happy and grace.

Celadon porcelain has a clean colour, which is the represent of pure. And famille-rose porcelain has a colourful style, which means auspicious.

Fig.254 Guo Pei

introduction Fig.258 Joana Vasconcelos

Fig.255 Elie saab Fig.256 Roberto Cavalli

Fig.257 Tadashi Shoji

Fig.259 Joana Vasconcelos Fig.262 William Morris

In this collection, pattern design will connect with western traditional pattern and simple Chinese motif together, which continue to analyse how to use Chinese traditional pattern in contemporary design. According to market research of Elie Saab fashion 2016 research, I will study the fig.255 fashion pattern for my texture inspiration, but I will use marbling ink printing to create all designs’ texture. And design composition will be based on some artist research and some market research. In this time, the vital technique is lasercut to display a lace style. It will be based on some artists’ work like Joana Vasconcelos, and some artists’ fashion like Roberto Cavalli and Tadashi Shoji. I will study their works to complete my designs’ composition and lasercut types.

Collection two is for UK S/S 2016. There will be used silk and cotton to be the main materials which is the is comfortable and ventilate for the weather.

Fig.259 Jhanna Basford

Fig.260 Jhanna Basford

Fig.261 Tatto pattern

Fig.263 William Morris

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design one Blue and white porcelain - Dignified and elegant Blue and white porcelain is the representative object in Chinese porcelain culture, which means dignified and elegant. It just has two colours of blue and white, which is like an elegant woman. In fashion design, there are many western brand and artists to choose this style for their contemporary fashion. In my design, I also used two colour blood of blue and white for main colour inspiration to keep its Chinese style. However, about the pattern motif will be based on William Morris’s flora and Chinese simple pattern together.

The inspiration of composition is from Tadashi Shoji’s fashion design (Fig.270) which used horizontal straight composition which is the same as blue and white porcelain.

Fig.265 Design inspiration

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Fig.264 Design inspiration Fig.266 Motif inspiration

Fig.268 Motif inspiration

Fig.269 Motif inspiration

Fig.270 Composition inspiration

Fig.267 Motif inspiration

design one

Image.83 Laser-cut motif

Image.85 Design background

Image.86 Previous design

Image.85 is the design background which is completed by marbling ink texture pattern. There is used blue blood for colour inspiration to connect with blue and white porcelain. Image.84 is the laser-cut pattern design. It used horizontal straight composition which is suitable for straight background. Image.86 is the previous design. First, this design only used simple pattern for laser-cut, but it cannot stand out the vital style of laser-cut, so the next design, I provided more laser-cut motif for pattern design, which can provide more details on laser-cut type.

Image.84 Laser-cut design

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design one

Fig.271 Colour inspiration

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Image.87 Design

Image.88 Laser-cut design

Image.89 Design colourway

design two Chinese yellow porcelain - Royal Yellow is a traditional colour in Chinese history, which symbolises royal. Chinese yellow porcelain can just be displayed in palace for royal people in history, so it has a high status in porcelain, which is also means royal. However, yellow is an attractive and shinning colour for contemporary fashion design. This design is based on the Chinese yellow porcelain (fig.275) as primary idea, which connects with the fashion design inspiration of Alberta Ferretti's fashion (fig.276). The background used the Chinese traditional pattern of fire for decoration, and the foreground of motif used fish which is another traditional pattern with tattoo drawing style.

Laser-cut inspiration is from Roberto Cavalli fig.277 fashion which just has a part of laser-cut. Therefore, this design just has a part of place with laser-cut type on the foreground, and another level used blue marbling ink texture to stand for water for serving the laser-cut pattern of lotus leaf. The whole of design has an atmosphere of fish living in water.

Fig.277 Design inspiration

Fig.272 Motif inspiration Fig.273 Laser-cut inspiration

Fig.274 Background inspiration

Fig.275 Design inspiration Fig.276 Design inspiration

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design two

Image.93 Laser-cut motif

Image.90 Design background

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Image.94 Laser-cut design

Image.91 Design motif

Image.92 Previous design

This design used mark pen drawing with tattoo style to finish motif of fish.

It used orange colour to attract people’s eyes. Lotus and aquatic plants decorated fish to complete the atmosphere of water. Image.93 and image.94 are the laser-cut pattern design. This design used the simple motif as lasercut level, which just decorated the fish. The previous design has a shining colour of lotus, but it cannot help fish more attractive, and it is not suitable for the background with blue colour. Therefore, I changed the lotus drawing style with line drawing and adding green aquatic plants in background. The lotus is not attractive now, and the green aquatic plants can help to connect with blue background and foreground.

design two

Fig.278 Colour inspiration

Image.95 Design

Image.96 Laser-cut design

Image.97 Design colourway

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design three Chinese red porcelain - Happy and grace Red is another traditional colour, which is always accompanying with happy, festival and lucky. Chinese red porcelain also has a good symbolism of happy and grace. This design motif is based on Johanna Basford’s plants drawing with a circle group. It has damask composition. In this time, the laser-cut inspiration is from Tadashi Shoji’s fashion design (fig.285). This design has tactile impression of the foreground. I combined with the fig.283 butterfly laser-cut to create a new laser-cut butterfly and it can stand on the paper, which is like butterflies flying in flower.

Fig.285 Laser-cut inspiration

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Fig.279 Composition inspiration

Fig.280 Motif inspiration

Fig.282 Design inspiration

Fig.281 Motif inspiration

Fig.283 Laser-cut inspiration

Fig.284 Design inspiration

design three

Image.98 Design motif

Image.99 Laser-cut design

Image.100 Design background

Image.98 is plant circle drawing. It had a hand drawing first and then used trace tool of illustrator for complete motif design. Image.99 is the laser-cut pattern design. It just has butterflies that is for match flower circle motif. In this design has two very different previous design. The first used a block composition for pattern design, but it is not suitable for laser-cut style. And another one combined with simple stamp flower and cirrus. I think this one has an irregular composition which need more details to perfect this design. Therefore, the final design has a damask and regular composition and a unitive motif to provide more details on design.

Image.101 Previous design

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design three

Fig.286 Colour inspiration

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Image.102 Design

Image.103 Laser-cut design

Image.104 Design colourway

design four Celadon porcelain - Pure Celadon porcelain has a clean colour, which is another representative in porcelain world. The clean colour called celadon which is the represent of pure. And celadon porcelain has a special pattern of ice-broken pattern. In this design, I combined with fig.291 porcelain pattern and ice-broken pattern together to create background. In laser-cut part, the design catch the idea from Joana Vasconcelos’ product. Her laser-cut design always help different products wearing a beautiful clothing. I got inspiration from her, and create laser-cut pattern with a whole painting on the background. In addition, the laser-cut pattern design is based lotus, because lotus also symbolise pure. Therefore, the theme of this design is pure. I used the colour of blue to show this theme.

Image.106 Laser-cut motif inspiration

Image.105 Laser-cut motif inspiration

Fig.288 Laser-cut inspiration

Fig.289 Laser-cut inspiration Fig.290 Laser-cut inspiration

Fig.292 Background inspiration

Fig.287 Laser-cut motif inspiration

Fig.291 Design inspiration

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design four

Image.109 Laser-cut design Image.107 is the background of the design. It used blue to provide clean and pure feeling, and blue can also stand for water, which can give a painting of lotus in water. The laser-cut pattern has four parts with lotus, lotus leaves, seedpod of lotus and dragonflies. All of them can stand for pure. And among of them, lotus leaves as the connection to link others’ motifs. The line link can provide lace type clearly. The image.109 is the whole laser-cut pattern design.

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Image.107 Design background

Image.108 Laser-cut motif

design four

Fig.293 Colour inspiration

Image.110 Design

Image.111 Laser-cut design

Image.112 Design colourway

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design five Famille-rose porcelain - Auspicious Famille-rose porcelain has a colourful style, which is cute and vivacious and these colour can also be called candy colours.

The meaning of Famille-rose porcelain is auspicious. And in 2016 Elie Saab fashion (fig.198) has a similar colour with famillerose porcelain, which became my design inspiration. The laser-cut part of the design has a damask pattern with circle motif, and the inspiration is from Johanna Basford and Joana Vasconcelos respectively. The circle motif caught from fig.297 famille-rose porcelain’s pattern. I got the drawing flower idea from the porcelain and created a new design or layout for circle drawing. There can be found many details in this design. The laser-cut level will use hyaline foreground. I used tracing paper for the sample, which can look through the under level. This laser-cut inspiration is from Roberto Cavalli (fig.299). This fashion design has two levels and the foreground is a engrave pattern on the plain colour background.

Fig.299 Laser-cut inspiration

Fig.295 Laser-cut inspiration

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Fig.294 Composition inspiration

Fig.296 Laser-cut motif inspiration

Fig.297 Design inspiration Fig.298 Design inspiration

design five

Image.114 Laser-cut motif

This design has colourful background like the porcelain. I used candy colour to design background (image.113). Image.114 is the motif of laser-cut. It is completed by different flowers from famille-rose porcelain, and I added more details on laser-cut flower for getting a better feeling on tracing paper laser-cut.

Image.115 is the whole laser-cut design.

Image.113 Design background

Image.115 Laser-cut design

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design five

Fig.300 Colour inspiration

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Image.116 Design

Image.117 Laser-cut design

Image.118 Design colourway

final design

This stage will display all of final design, including 1 to 1 size design, final repeat design and illustration.

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93 Fig.1: http://www.efushop.com/resource/editor/attached/20140517/20140517120435_46354.jpg

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Fig.1: https://cdnd.lystit.com/photos/2013/04/06/halston-heritage-white-lon

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conclusion

In conclusion, this design project according to two market research gets two different types of design, but the same aim is for examining how to use Chinese traditional work into contemporary fashion design. Both of them is based on Chinese traditional style with top 10 fashion colour in S/S 2016 from colour pantone.

The theme of collection one is ‘Flower symbolism’ for Chinese market, and the theme of collection two is attention to ‘Chinese porcelain’ for UK market.

This critical journal started from design trend, and then, according to market research to process a colour analysis and describe the design inspiration. Next, it introduced development design from technique, motif, background and texture via visual research and artist research. Finally, it displayed collection divisions to describe each design generally, and illustrates three types of final designs – repeat pattern, one to one detail, and end use.

From this time of project, I taste fashion design with a clear trend, adding with some interesting technique to make motif, texture and background which can be improved in the future.

However, in this project, it also has some ways to develop. The main problem is about the material application. This project needs more research about material from market. It need more time to analysis which material is better for the weather and area. From pattern, I need to improve my laser-cut design which need a clearer thought for how to design the detail pattern. On the other hand, getting more knowledges of material and market research can help me to get better design, so this is a work in the future design.

To sum up, I obtain many new knowledge from this work, but I also have many elements to improve to help me get better design.

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Zhongyao Zhou’s claborate-style painting. [Online]. [Accessed 30 May]. Available from: http://www.360doc.com/content/12/1130/16/2153789_251213774. shtml Lanhuafengshang. 2015. Tie dye – traditional and fashion art. [Online]. [Accessed 27 May]. Available from: http://toutiao.com/a3980359607/ Wuzhen. 2016. Indigo Tie fabric. Online]. [Accessed 31 May]. Available from: http://www.wuzhen.com.cn/cn/techang2.aspx?cid=98&id=766 Vasconcelos, J. n.d. BIOGRAPHY. [Online]. [Accessed 29 May 2016]. Available from: http://joanavasconcelos.com/biografia_en.aspx Vogue. 2013. Roberto Cavalli. [Online]. [Accessed 28 May]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2013/ready-to-wear/robertocavalli/full-length-photos/gallery/856753 Vogue. 2016. Elie Saab. [Online]. [Accessed 26 Jan 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-couture/elie-saab/slideshow/ collection#40 Wikipedia. 2016. Mandala. [Online]. [Accessed 30 May]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MandalaWikipedia. 2016. Roberto Cavalli. [Online].

[Accessed 29 May]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roberto_Cavalli Wikipedia. 2016. Tadashi Shoji. [Online]. [Accessed 29 May]. Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tadashi_Shoji Xinjing. 2015. Zhaoping Deng fashion show – sheng shi zhong hua. [Online]. [Accessed 28 Jan 2016]. Available from: http://www.gdpolyimide. com/?mod=info&col_key=news&info_id=37&lang=en

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