Spaces

spaces

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Volume 1 • Issue 1 • December 2015

BEHIND AURORA’S SMILE It’s a province of coconut farms and scattered resorts.

Tin-roofed houses still bear the scars from the typhoon that battered the province barely a month before. Its narrow roads and sparse traffic speak to the seeming economic stagnation hounding this gateway to the Pacific.

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welcome

Good luck, for MRT is notorious for its kilometer-long queue and mechanical glitches. In the end, the petroleum industry seems to be the sole benefactor of this hellish traffic scheme.

Amidst the chaos and congestion, the Manileños truly deserve some breathing SPACE. This magazine is for those who want to explore alternatives to the urban jungle of Metro Manila

Rather than enjoying and taking break from months of academics or work, Manilenos are confronted with the aggravating problem of heavy traffic Without disregarding existing gems within brought upon by urban congestion - the the Metro, this issue of SPACES showcases worst ever in Philippine history. other notable ‘spaces’ both within and outside the metro—from a unique cafe in Katipunan With around 12 million people jam- and the world-renown Lechon in La Loma packed in a tiny 246 square mile of land, Quezon City, the green plantations of Baguio, Metro Manila is now considered as one and to the breathtaking views in the province of the most congested urban areas in of Aurora. the world. Coupled with an inefficient public transport system, lack of urban Through these brief glimpses, we hope to planning, numerous road repair projects pique your curiosity towards places that are and sheer lack of discipline amongst truly Filipino, just waiting to be explored. ≠ drivers, describing travel within the Metro

editors

ROBIN BUSTAMANTE JIRU RADA WOWIE TUBIJE

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However, this holiday season is like no other. Not to be a cynic, but many here in the Metro consider this holiday season as hellish. Why all the fuss?

as ‘torture’ is an understatement. Imagine a mere 17 km road travel from Makati to Quezon City taking two hours! Taking the train instead?

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las came the month December, the culmination of Filipinos’ year-long wait for festivities. Families, rich and poor alike, are all preoccupied with preparations either for their own versions of Noche Buena, Christmas parties or their out of town itineraries.

publisher TERRY CONGJUICO UP DILIMAN - CMC

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contents

A VERY COOL PLACE BEHIND AURORA’S SMILE LECHONS OF LA LOMA OUT WITH THE DOGGONE DAYS, INTO THE NEW DOG CAFÉ

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A VERY COOL PLACE

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KENNETH GUTLAY

Situated in the Northwestern part of Luzon, Benguet is a mixture of urban development and rural preservation. Its most densely populated city is Baguio, home to more than 300,000 residents.

Add that to the hundreds and hundreds of tourists flocking to the city every day and you have a crowded cityscape. Still, that doesn’t dissuade tourists from flocking to what is known as the “Summer Capital of the Philippines” due to it being 8 degrees cooler than the average temperature.

Park and the Mansion House which served as the “summer house” for the president.

One quick tour around Baguio is enough to give a wandering tourist a feel of the city. Founded by early settlements of the Ibaloi tribe, it gained popularity during the American colonial period when a certain Governor-general William Taft noted its cool climate. A lot of the early developments in Baguio took place under American rule. Most notable of these are Kennon Road, Burnham

Be prepared, however, to brave the stiff competition for the cabs and traffic jams that riddle the transportation system in Baguio. If you’re up for it, you can travel by foot. You could get easily winded, as did I, as some streets can get pretty steep.

The streets and roads of Baguio are almost wildly winding. It’s easy to lose your bearings, especially with the multitude of commuters and travelers traversing the city. It is easier to ride a cab to get to your destination—most cab drivers are pretty knowledgeable about the city’s main landmarks and thoroughfares. Fare is also relatively cheap here than in the metro.

The main districts of Baguio are pretty compact, each building propped side-by-

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s I stood atop a hill amidst the rolling mountains around me, I felt a strange calming sensation. The wind blew harshly, carrying sand and a few tufts of dry grass scurrying across the valley. Summer was slowly creeping in and the sun was unforgiving; relentless in its radiance.

Sweat beaded on my brow, the Baguio climate was cool and refreshing.

Sweat beaded on my brow, the Baguio climate was cool and refreshing.

side with nearly no open spaces. It feels that planning got choked somewhere in the middle as big businesses sprung up, trying to take advantage of the high consumer traffic. Big fast food chains are aplenty and if you’re looking for something traditional and native, you’ll be hard-pressed looking for one.

I chose to eat at a small carinderia called Marosan’s a ways away from the hustle and bustle of the main streets of Baguio. One hefty plateful of rice and seasoned meat costs 80 pesos. You could split the meal with a friend and still end up with a full stomach.

each piece costing around 30 pesos. It also has a wide array of books for your perusal. It has a homey feel to it — the floors and walls are made of wood boards, adding to the whole “tree house” vibe. And the best part? It has free Wi-Fi. But a trip is not a Baguio trip unless you visit its famed strawberry farms. Situated in La Trinidad, it is a mere three kilometers away from the city proper. You can get there by jeep. Ride one near the University of Baguio then tell the driver to drop you near the farms and you’re set.

and fruits including lettuce and broccoli.

Outside the fenced plots, locals sell various handmade wares, as well as different strawberry delicacies like jams, preserves and ice cream.

By night, the scene changes dramatically.

The streets come alive with bars and night markets and night peddlers littering the streets. Rows upon rows of homes and buildings line the mountainside. As the sun sets, more and more lights dot the skyline, shining through translucent windows, rivaling the lights of the stars themselves.

It can get pricy, though, costing 500 pesos per kilo if you handpick it yourself.

The next day was creeping in when I During my second day in Baguio, The local peddlers, however, are happy to decided to go home. I packed up my things I stayed at a nice coffee shop called sell you the same amount at only 180 pesos. and took the first bus back towards home, Under the Tree Book Café. One tall glass nothing but the stars and the stray headlight of the iced coffees and teas costs around The field is a wide expanse of tilled land illuminating my view. If I had to summarize 80 to 100 pesos per serving. The café and crops, framed by mountains on either the trip in one word, it’ll be this: cool, in both also serves snacks and pastries, with side. The farmers plant various vegetables senses of the word. ≠

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BEHIND AURORA’S SMILE ∟

ROBIN BUSTAMANTE

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t’s a province of coconut farms and scattered resorts. Tin-roofed houses still bear the scars from the typhoon that battered the province barely a month before. Its narrow roads and sparse traffic speak to the seeming economic stagnation hounding this gateway to the Pacific.

Located some 270 kilometers north of Manila, this is the sleepy province of Aurora. Known for its waterfalls and surfing beaches, it is a province oft-applauded for its lack of development we ignorantly label as rural charm.

following day.” Historical tourism drives a big part of Aurora’s tourism shares, with Baler being its focal point. Structures have been restored and monetized while markers have been erected around its Poblacion, as well as other places, commemorating various moments in The 2012 Poverty Statistics Report of Baler’s turbulent past. the National Statistical Coordination Board showed Aurora with the highest poverty The town of Baler has a legacy dating incidence as percentage of its population back to the early days of the Spanish in the region. With 30.8% of the population colonization. It has seen great deluges living below the poverty line, Aurora’s (sources vary on whether it was a tsunami, situation is a far cry from Region III’s average a rogue wave or a water spout.) It is the of 12.9% poverty incidence. hometown to one of the country’s fathers.

But for one extremely influential family, a different kind of legacy is what they’re after. What’s one family name that is almost synonymous with the province of Aurora?

It’s not Quezon—it’s Angara.

The Angara clan, one of the seven families that survived the deluge of the 1700s, has had its members clenched on Aurora’s political backbone. At one point, citizens of Baler had Currently, there are only 2 tertiary-level an Angara at every office: the municipal level, institutions in the entire province—the state- the district level, the provincial level and even owned Aurora State College of Technology up to the senate level. and the church-owned Mount Carmel College of Baler. With limited choices in Current senator Sonny, namesake and colleges, some students simply opt to move heir to Edgardo Angara’s dynasty, has to neighboring Nueva Ecija to seek better previously mentioned that the political educational opportunities. dynasty his family holds in the province isn’t a bad thing, or something to be ashamed of.

Infrastructure development remains It’s actually a source of pride: sluggish in Aurora. Land vehicles travelling from nearby provinces in Central Luzon “I think we are a political dynasty, pero and from Manila must navigate through ang difference yung sa amin is may legacy the Sierra Madre, climb up the dam in po kami. Nakaupo po kami ng siyam na taon, Pantabangan, Nueva Ecija before even at siyam na taon iniinbitahan namin na inyong reaching Aurora. After that, travelers will tingnan kung ano ang nagawa namin.” have to deal with narrow and sometimes unpaved roads within the province. Even Tourists flock to Aurora because they in Baler’s town proper, the roads are barely seek one thing they can’t find in their wide enough for heavier vehicles to pass urbanized settlements: the richness of nature. through let alone handle heavy traffic.

Despite being inhabited far longer than other provinces, Aurora has preserved its natural Despite being reliant on land- splendor. And such splendor today, is scarce. transported goods, only 1% of Aurora’s It’s a basic tenet of economics: where there’s roads are paved with asphalt. Majority of scarcity, there’s demand; where there’s roads there are sand and gravel-type roads, demand, there’s value. which are prone to being impassible during the rainy season.

Aurora can be rich in its own way through the environment it possesses. It’s a wealth Aurora’s own government website, that may not be appreciated by many, supposedly marketed towards tourists, perhaps until only when it is completely makes no attempt to hide the poor state gone. Perhaps, instead of grandiose of its infrastructure. An anecdote from the schemes of economic powerhouses and website even describes how road situations tourist traps, development should focus on even delay news deliveries in the province: empowering the people of Aurora through excellent basic social service such as “Dailies from Manila reach the healthcare, education and infrastructure. province in the late afternoon, owing to the bad conditions of the BalerLife should never be about coping. Life Bongabon National Road. In bad weather is always about finding a way. ≠ and landslides, the dailies may arrive the

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More than half of the province’s population rely on agriculture, fishing and forestry for their livelihood. Services, including tourism hospitality, account for a quarter of the remaining job shares.

With a provincial literacy rate of only 94% (compared to a 97.5% national average), opportunities for higher paying jobs remain elusive for Aurorans.

Tourists flock to Aurora because they seek one thing they can’t find in their urbanized settlements the richness of nature.

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he sun was peeking out sheepishly that morning. The air was filled with an intoxicating smell of morning dew and smoke billowing out of fire pits and chimneys. The first few of the residents are waking up but all of the workers in the La Loma, Quezon City are already finished with their first few batches of their famous lechon.

Dozens and dozens of suckling pigs are roasted everyday here. La loma, a Spanish word pertaining to a low hill, is considered to be the Lechon Capital of the Philippines, and with good reason. The streets are lined with roasted pigs on bamboo poles and are known to be one of the tastiest and juiciest in the country.

The main street has restaurants all selling lechon and other pork dishes. Further down the road is where the pigs are cooked. The side streets and small alleys are where the pigs are skinned, cleaned and boiled for cooking. The pigs are transported by wheelbarrow hauled by workers to and fro around the streets of La Loma.

The lechon is a classic Filipino dish. It has different variations from the Northern Luzon ones, to the Cebuano versions.

Filipinos have been roasting wild boars even before the colonizers came. But the

LECHONS OF LA LOMA

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KENNETH GUTLAY

lechon, as it looks now, is handed down to us and to Spanish colonies by the Spanish conquistadors. The word ‘lechon’ is a Spanish term meaning ‘suckling pig’ and is popular in Latin American countries.

In the Filipino setting, it is usually served with a plate of sauce made with onions, garlic, breadcrumbs and pig liver.

The suckling pig, which is a piglet fed on its mother’s milk, is cleaned and boiled to get rid of its furs and dirt. It is cooked nearby where around a dozen of them are cooked at once. Workers spent more than six hours turning the bamboo poles to keep the heat distributed and preventing the pig from overcooking on one side.

Each person then spends the whole day inches from the blazing heat of the fire pits cooking two to three pigs at a time.

Another worker keeps the pigs oiled and moist with a brush attached to a pole.

you can still get a taste of the lechon around the restaurants in La Loma. Lydia’s Lechon offers a small plate of lechon with one cup of rice for about P70. The skin is crispy, juicy and tangy; the meat, tender and moist; and the sauce a bit salty and Lydia’s Lechon, arguably the most sweet. famous and largest of these shops, has been in the business since 1965. The Be warned though, eating too much owner then, Lydia and Benigno de Roca, is unhealthy as each serving is a more opened its first store with only P500 as than 200 calories (an amount unhealthy capital. Each lechon costs around P9000 for the body) and that’s not counting to P15000. All other lechons cost around seconds. that price range.

Whatever the reason, the lechon itself is As such, lechons are considered to a reason to celebrate. Surviving after many, be delicacies to be served at fiestas and many years, Filipinos have put their own celebrations. If you’re not in the mood for versions of the dish and made it something celebration or your pocket’s a bit light, truly Filipino. ≠

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In Lydia’s Lechon, however, they mechanized this process. Each bamboo pole with the suckling pig is attached to a metal gear where a machine turns all of the pigs at once.

Lechons are considered to be delicacies served at fiestas and celebrations.

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Barkin’ Blends is located at 91 Rosa Alvero St., Loyola Heights in Quezon City and is open every day except Tuesdays, from 12 noon to 9 p.m.

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OUT WITH THE DOGGONE DAYS, INTO THE NEW DOG CAFÉ

KEILAH DIMPAS

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he tiny space with its five tables filled up fast. People were constantly peering through the window and going in and out of the place. After all, where else can you get not only comfort from good food, but comfort from adorable dogs too?

While customers can just peer at the cashier and order their drinks on the go, 180 pesos can offer you an access to the Dog Zone, complemented with one large drink, either of coffee or tea variety, to your liking.

However, waiting for your turn to the Dog Zone can consume most of your time, depending on the number of people that day - but trust us, it’s worth it. The play spot will only accommodate 30 giddy customers, a fair enough amount compared to the number of dogs ready for some cuddling.

This limit ensures that the dogs do not and will not succumb to stress and that everybody can still have their breathing spaces while sipping from their cups.

Once inside the room, furry paws and wagging tails, commissioned portraits of the pups, and phones up and ready to take good selfies will welcome you. You can either sit on the metal benches while waiting for Skye the Siberian Husky to hop and sleep on your lap, or you can plop on the floor and try to lure Smile the Pug into your arms. No matter where your happy place is, the playful nibbles and adorable barks will surely radiate to wherever you are.

At one point, we all heard the immemorial excuses of parents for not getting us the puppies that we want, whether because of the smell or the shredding fur, but these are proven invalid inside the wooden banquette-lined play

pen. The floors are squeaky clean, with no traces of any accidents. A whiff of lemon also fills the room following the constant attending, mopping and Domex-spraying of the approachable dog handlers. The dogs are also well-behaved and playful, making you want to keep them inside of your shirt and run away.

According to Bernadette Aboganda, daughter of the owner, they got the idea of starting a dog cafe from the Bau House Dog Cafe in Korea. Considering the fact that they are on #TeamDog and that all 15 original pups (now 30) are theirs, the business is a nice addition to their passion and to their family.

Still on its first year, Barkin’ Blends is a relatively young cafe, but it continues to give love and comfort every day. The place is jampacked even on a normal weekday, and long queues await them come the weekends. But what is the secret to having these kinds of animal-themed cafes click?

“I think it’s the cuteness factor,” said Aboganda as she longingly looks at her furry friends who tried to pin her to the floor earlier.

When you’re all tired from the continuous cuddling, playing and failing to lure the dogs to you, you can have a taste of the cafe side of things. From the beautiful handcrafted menu, a list of comfort food are available - from big boy burgers to their adorable pupcakes. The thing with the food is that it resembles that of home, add their studentfriendly prices, and their cafe gets a two thumbs up.

If you need a little sanctuary in the midst of the metropolitan stress, with homemade food and a little bit of cuddling with balls of fur, then Barkin’ Blends will be the good spot to chill, whether alone or shared with friends. ≠

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Quietly sitting in a nook amidst the ever so alive Katipunan is the Philippines’ first ever dog cafe, Barkin’ Blends. The cafe is strategically (and luckily) placed near UP Diliman, Ateneo De Manila University and Miriam College, all of which are in dire need of after school and post-hell week hangout spots. However, both the young and the old can and will enjoy the quirky café.

No matter where your happy place is, the playful nibbles and adorable barks will surely radiate to wherever you are.

With mounting pressure from political entities whose intentions may not be as well-aligned for the masses, it becomes imperative for the people of Aurora to take a stand and contribute to its own future. Even if that means taking it to their own hands.

Tourists flock to Aurora because they seek one thing they can’t find in their urbanized settlements: the richness of nature. Despite being inhabited far longer than other provinces, Aurora has preserved its natural splendor.

And such splendor today, is scarce.

It’s a basic tenet of economics: where there’s scarcity, there’s demand; where there’s demand, there’s value.

Aurora can be rich in its own way through the environment it possesses. It’s a wealth that may not be appreciated by many, perhaps until only when it is completely gone. Perhaps, instead of grandiose schemes of economic powerhouses and tourist traps, development should focus on empowering the people of Aurora through excellent basic social service such as healthcare, education and infrastructure. They have the right to feel safe during a storm, and at the same time not feel isolated from the people they welcome to.

CLEAN-UP DRIVE January 2016 | Open for all facebook.com/METamorphosis mettheatermanila@ncca.gov.ph

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VOLUNTEER AND SHE WILL RISE AGAIN