4 minute read
OPINION PIECE
from J'N'C 02/2022
OPINION PIECE GIVING PEOPLE LIKE YE A PLATFORM IS EVERYTHING THAT’S WRONG WITH THE FASHION INDUSTRY
No doubt you’ve already heard the news about Ye, the artist formerly known as Kanye West? As the fashion month draws to a close, what better time for another scandal? Enter Ye!
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TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN
Known for stirring controversy wherever he goes, Ye is one of those famous personalities who, while well-aware of their huge reach, is unable to understand just how much damage they are capable of causing. Although some unthinking consumers of pop culture are still celebrating him for the mere sake of it, more and more people are starting to realise that the once-lauded musician, on top of his mental illness (which, of course, should be taken seriously), is also veering into megalomania.
When I first heard the news about his ‘White Lives Matter’ T-shirts, all I saw was the sheer ignorance of an incredibly self-absorbed man who has taken it upon himself to ridicule a global movement with historical consequences via a pseudo-Kafkaesque message on tees presented in his recent runway show at Paris Fashion Week.
Saying that ‘White Lives Matter’ – and there is no room for debate here – is highly dangerous. Disclaimer: this isn’t a discussion of whose lives matter more. The whole point of the actual slogan ‘Black Lives Matter’ is not to suggest a scale of worth, but to condemn racist thought and behavioural structures and to acknowledge the equality and inclusion of black people, of People of Colour in general. Anyone who doesn’t understand that and chooses to retaliate by emblazoning the counter slogan on a T-shirt has well and truly missed the point.
“[…] Now more than ever, voices like hers are needed […]”
It’s unfathomable to me how a man from the affected minority isn’t choosing to use his voice to stand up for those who have no voice, but, in his state of hubris, believes himself to be so artistically superior that he can do and say whatever he wants. Ye is playing with a fire that he won’t be able to put out. Provocatively jostling your way into the fashion spotlight with an insensitive statement that is used psychologically by right-wing groups (and not only in the USA), but also (consciously or unwittingly) sympathising with it, is, in my eyes, grossly negligent.
Is this everything that’s wrong with the fashion industry? The fact that we are giving someone like him a platform and the attention that he so desperately craves?
But to bring my rant – and that’s exactly what this is – to a close, I would actually like to highlight everything that is right in the fashion industry. Because we are also seeing a lot of good out there too, especially in response to Ye’s recent behaviour. Such as the collective outrage that is leading to solidarity: like Vogue Fashion Editor-at-Large Gabriella Karefa-Johnson who eloquently and confidently spoke out against West and his ideology, resulting in him hurling a barrage of insults at her online. Or model Gigi Hadid, who, on Instagram at least, sprung to Gabriella KarefaJohnson’s defence – and was also publicly blasted by him. Or Vogue, which published an official statement on the Gabriella KarefaJohnson versus Ye dispute, positioning itself clearly on the side of its editors. And Adidas, who – after all the plagiarism accusations against them (not to mention the ensuing controversy) – are finally distancing themselves from the rapper-turned-designer with the following statement: “Successful partnerships are rooted in mutual respect and shared values”.
Respect and values. Something that Ye doesn’t seem to have a need for in his life. In fast succession, his controversial antics (the MAGA cap, his support of Trump, the threats of violence towards his ex-wife’s new partner, his pro-life stance, his anti-Semitic remarks on Twitter and now also the T-shirt debacle) go way beyond mere provocation. They are a slap in the face for most of us. In an interview that he gave to US channel Fox News (cough, cough) shortly after his show, he said: “So the answer to why I wrote ‘White Lives Matter’ on a shirt is: because they do. It’s an obvious thing”. And he also thought the idea of him, as a black man, wearing it was funny. Ha. Ha.
GOOD VIBES AUF DER SHOES DÜSSELDORF
Good mood. Good climate.
The footwear world at home in Düsseldorf SHOES DÜSSELDORF at Areal Böhler is where the Who‘s Who of the industry meets.
The strong presence of German and international brands reflects how highly coveted SHOES DÜSSELDORF is. The appealingly curated ranges and the Areal Böhler’s openplan, pleasant atmosphere is received very well by both exhibitors and visitors.
Also in focus at SHOES DÜSSELDORF: sustainability with all its facets from manufacturing to the product and displaying it at the POS. The high-class accompanying program with exciting talks and trend lectures offers numerous ideas for the order, but also a lot of inspiration beyond the horizon.
Due to the very complex and tight calendar of the shoe industry, the opening hours for the runtime days in March will be slightly adjusted.