+S
OR
SP
+S P
T OR
S
R P O TS
+S
+S PO
RT
TS
S+
OR
SP
SP OR
S+
TS
RT
PO
+S
+
TS R PO
+
TS S TS
PO R
JOANNA GORDON FASHION SPORTSWEAR - YEAR 4
The initial design inspiration focuses on multiculturalism within British culture. When looking at British culture to give a direct link to identity and authenticity within subcultures as due to race, defining origins of a culture can be challenging as a person of colour’s identity can be negatively affected by the distortion of themselves
and their identity. Through direct links in styles of historical movements of resistance to social and political views, we can see that the common commodity for working-class youth within subcultures is Fashion and Music; particularly from the Caribbean culture due to the Windrush generation being the most impactful
period of British history. Through this, I will focus on the waves of youth adapted the subcultural fashion and their use of self-expression to unify each other from the mid-’50s subcultures - Teddy Boys, Jamaican Rude Bwoys and Skinheads - through to the late ‘60s.
J’ÉTAIS will be adapting traditional tailoring as well as modifying those attitudes for +SPORTS creating that finesse and elegance in the functional properties of the brand.
Further expansion of research will come from: Football and Football Hooligans (the unity and division of people as well as inform the technical and functional design approach
alongside the hooligan attire to imply a more leisure) Jamaican Soundsystems (for the unity and love of music, the structural build will inform style lines)
PANTONE 17-0839 TCX Golden Palm
PANTONE 19-1331 TCX Madder Brown
PANTONE 14-1118 TCX Beige
PANTONE 19-1656 TCX Rio Red
PANTONE 15-4008 TCX Blue Fog
PANTONE 18-3917 TCX Gray Blue
PANTONE 16-0532 TCX Moss
PANTONE 19-0413 TCX Deep Depths
Looking at Jamaican ‘Rude Bwoy’ attitude and the style that came from Jamaica in the Windrush generation; I will be drawing inspiration from the sound systems shape. This can also inspire hardware for components within particular pieces.
PO
RT
+S PO RT S
PO +S
+S
S
RT
S +S
+S
OR TS
TS OR
+SP
TS OR
PO
+S +S PO RT S
OR TS
+S P S ORT
+
PO +S
+S
SP
S
OR TS
RT PO
P +S ORT S
+SP
S RT
OR TS
+
PO
PO
TS OR
+S
SP
+
GRAINLINE
TS OR
S
+SP
RT +SP OR TS
PO
+S
S
RT
P +S ORT S
+SP
TS
OR
+SP
OR TS
+
FRONT SIDE PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
GRAINLINE
GRAINLINE
1 OF 10A
GRAINLINE
+SP TS OR SP
+
SP
O
S RT PO
PO +S +S PO RT S
SP
+
TS+ OR
SP
+
SP
OR TS
+S
S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
GRAINLINE
+SP
S
PO
S
OR TS
S
+S
RT
+SP
RT
RT S
+S PO
RT S
+S PO
RT
+S PO
P +S ORT S
PO
RT S
3 OF 10
PO +S
OR TS
S
+S
SPO
RT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR4
S
+SP
RT
P +S ORT S
+SPORT S+
5 OF 10
RT
TS OR
PO
TS OR
S RT
CUT 1 PAIR SELF
From looking at the Teddy boys subculture style, this mid-weight trench is intended to have a very relaxed and comforting fit; aiming to place this Trench in a consumers wardrobe for a very long time making it a staple. +SP
+S
SP
PO +S
9 OF 10
FRONT LAPEL PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
TS
TS OR
S+ RT
S RT PO +S
CENTRE BACK PIECE
2 OF 9
OR
SP
PO +S
TOP SLEEVE PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF
RTS
FRONT CHEST PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
SP
S+
S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR4
RT
+S PO RT S+
SP
OR TS
TS OR
+
+SP
4 OF 10
RT
RT S
S
SP
RT
BACK YOKE PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF +SPO
PO
TS OR
+S
GRAINLINE
P +S ORT S
+SPO
S RT
RT S
PO
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
7 OF 10
GRAINLINE
COLLAR STAND CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 FUSE
RT
RT
+S PO RT S
PO +S
+S
S
PO
MAC OVER COAT CAD AND GOALS S +S
+S
OR TS
TS OR
+SP
TS OR
PO
+S
+S PO RT S
OR TS
+SP
TS OR
+SP
TS OR
SP
5 OF 10
+
+SP OR TS
GRAINLINE
TS
OR
GRAINLINE
+SP
GRAINLINE
PO
GRAINLINE
+SP TS OR SP
+
OR TS
+S
O
S RT PO
PO +S +S PO RT S
SP
+
+SP
RT S
SP
+
S
+S PO
OR TS
RT
OR TS
+SP
PO
P +S ORT S
+SP
S
OR TS
+S
S
RT
TS OR
RT
+SP
P +S ORT S
PO
+S
+SP
+S PO
RT S
S
S
TS
P +S ORT S
PO
RT
RT
OR
S
+S
PO
+S
PO +S SP
RT
P +S ORT S
S
RT
S
+
1 OF 10A
PO
TS OR
PO +S
CUT 1 PAIR SELF
2 OF 10
FRONT SIDE PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S
SP
S
9 OF 10
FRONT CHEST PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
TS OR
S+ RT
TOP SLEEVE PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF
CENTRE BACK PIECE
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR4
RT
SP
PO +S
Still looking at the Teddy boys style and looking into Terrace boys in a later subculture in British history (fashion). This Mackintosh coat comes with similar shaping but offers a Bi-Swing back component initially for golf to not have any restrictions in movement. J’ÉTAIS sets this for any sophisticated consumer to cycle, run or any casual activities.
S+
S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4 RT
RT
+S PO RT S+
SP
OR TS
TS OR
+
+SP
4 OF 10
RT
RT S
S
SP
RT
BACK YOKE PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF +SPO
PO
TS OR
+S
GRAINLINE
P +S ORT S
+SPO
S RT
RT S
PO
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
7 OF 10
GRAINLINE
COLLAR STAND CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 FUSE
When looking into the windrush generation, a signiture look was coming from the American Zoot Suit. The silhouettes in the trouser designs will come from these shapes and looking at how I can incorporate the transition to and from casual wear to performace wear.
When sampling this design it became clear that I would need to have something to keep the trousers up as it is a grown on waistband with minimal support.
FLY FACING CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
PLEAT
GRAINLINE
TAILORED TROUSERS CAD AND GOAL
OUTERSEAM PANEL PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S P
TS
OR
RTS
PO +S
+S PO
S RT
RTS
PO +S
+SPO
S RT
PO +S RTS PO +S S +S P RTS +S PO RTS +SPO
RTS
PO +S OR TS
PO +S S RT SPO
SP + RTS
+S P RTS +S PO RTS +SPO
RTS
+SP
RTS PO +S RTS SPO
P
+S
RTS
+S P
+S P
R OT
+SPO
S+
RTS
+S PO
S+
+S P RTS PO +S RTS +SPO
RTS PO +S RTS SPO S+
R OT
PO
+S PO
+S
RTS
RT S
S
+SPO
+SPO
RT
S RT
S RT
RTS
PO +S
PO +S
PO +S
+S PO
S RT
S
S RT
S RT
+S P
PO +S
PO +S
RTS
RTS
TS
TS
+SPO
+S PO
+S P
S RT
RTS
RTS
OR
OR
PO +S
PO +S
+SPO
+S PO
S RT
S RT
R OT
RTS
RTS
RTS
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
R OT
+SPO
PO +S
PO +S
+S P
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
R OT
GRAINLINE
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
GRAINLINE
S+
SPO
RTS
RTS
+S PO
PO +S
R OT
S RT
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
LEFT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
SP
PO +S
TS
TS
OR
RIGHT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
OR
+
S RT
CUT 1 PAIR SELF
RTS
PO +S
BACK CROTCH PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S PO
TS
OR
BACK OUTER LEG PANEL
RTS
RTS
+SPO
FRONT SIDE PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
The main objective for these tailored trousers is Mohave a relaxed look similarly to the zoot trousers but for the sophisticated male. The style lines from the sound system gives it a casual look that can be dressed up and down. Using light to medium weight cotton to have a smooth texture to the trousers will help place them in a consumers everyday and night wardrobe.
PLEAT FLY FACING CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
GRAINLINE
ADJUSTABLE TAILORED TROUSERS CAD AND GOAL OUTERSEAM PANEL PIECE CUT 1 PAIR SELF +S P
TS
OR
RTS
PO +S S
+S PO
RT
RT
S
PO +S
+SPO
S RT
S
PO +S
RT
S RT
+S PO
+S
POR
RTS
TS
+SPO
+S P
S
R OT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
FRONT SIDE PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S P RTS +S PO
+S P
RTS
RTS PO +S
RTS
RTS +SPO
PO +S RTS SPO S+
RTS
P
+S PO +S P
R OT
R OT
S+
S
SPO
RT
RTS
SP
RTS
+S P RTS PO +S +SP OR TS
RTS PO +S RTS SPO
+
+SPO
RTS
+S
RTS
S RT
+S PO
PO +S
RTS
RT S
RTS +S PO
R OT
PO
S RT
+SPO
+S PO
+SPO
+S
PO +S
S RT
RTS
S RT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
RTS
RTS
TS
OR
PO +S
+SPO
S+
S RT
+SPO
S
R OT
OR
PO +S
S RT
PO +S
SPO
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
TS
PO +S
S RT
+S P
S+
LEFT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
PO
+S P RTS PO +S RTS +SPO
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
+S P
+S
PO
RTS
RTS
+S PO
PO +S
OR TS
RTS
+SP
S
+S P
S RT
RT
PO +S
RTS
PO +S
PO +S
TS
PO
S RT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
TS
OR
+S
PO +S
CUT 1 PAIR SELF OR
+SP OR TS
TS
BACK CROTCH PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
RIGHT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
OR
+S
BACK OUTER LEG PANEL
R OT
GRAINLINE
GRAINLINE
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
Using the same style and fabrication as the tailored trousers, I have tailored these to fit a more active consumer i.e. cyclist, someone who commutes to from work to a sport etc. there is a invisible zip from the knee to the hem with a grown on side seam to help with mobility. The adjustable waistband helps tighten for cycling so the consumer can make it as comfortable as they like without the bulkiness of a belt.
FLY FACING CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
GRAINLINE
STRAIGHT JEANS CAD AND GOAL
FRONT SIDE PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S P RTS +S PO
+S P
RTS
RTS
+SPO
PO +S
RTS
RTS +SPO
PO
RTS PO +S RTS
+S P
RTS
PO
+S
+SP OR TS
RTS
PO
+S
+S RTS SPO
R OT
SPO P
S+
+S
R OT
R OT
+S P
GRAINLINE
S
RTS
R OT
GRAINLINE
RT
RTS
+S PO
PO
RTS
SP
S+
+
+SPO
RTS
+S PO
+S
S RT
+S PO
PO +S
RTS
+S P RTS PO +S RTS +SPO
RTS PO +S RTS PO +S S
RTS
RTS
S RT
+SPO
P
+SPO
SPO
PO +S
S RT
+S
S RT
S+
TS
OR
PO +S
RT S
RTS
R OT
OR
S RT
+S PO
PO +S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
PO +S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
LEFT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
TS
RTS
SPO
CUT 1 SELF RIGHT SIDE UP
+S P
+SPO
S+
RTS
S RT
+S P
+S PO
PO +S
RTS
OR TS
S
S RT
PO
+SP
RT
PO +S
+S
S RT
PO +S
TS
+SP OR TS
PO +S
TS
OR
OR
S RT
CUT 1 PAIR SELF
PO +S
BACK CROTCH PANEL CUT 1 PAIR SELF
RIGHT CROTCH PANEL PIECE
OR
TS
When designing the jeans I wanted to make sure the key elements of what I research were shown. The stitching needed to be very bold link the dr. Martens and the denim would need. To be something classic to show the Caribbean rude boy style. The style lines and paneling are carried from the trousers but they represent something Jamaicans would call worker mans jeans due to the durability. I intend to use organic and heavy denim for that longevity as well as bring character as the consumer wears it over time. BACK OUTER LEG PANEL
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
‘FOOTY’ POLO CAD AND GOAL +S P RTS +S PO
RTS
PO +S
+SPO
S RT
PO
RTS
RTS
+SPO
+S S RT SPO S+
P
RTS
R OT
+SPO
+S
+SPO
RT S
S RT
RTS
+S PO
PO +S
RT
RTS
+S PO
CF
GRAINLINE
S RT
+S PO
RTS
PO +S
S
S
PO +S
GL
+SP OR TS
RTS PO +S RTS SPO S+
GRAINLINE
R OT
+S P
TS
+S P
+S P
RTS
TS
RT
PO
+S POR
PO +S
+S
RTS
CF
+SPO
OR
TS
RTS
S RT
COLLAR STAND CUT 1 PR SELF CUT 1 FUSING
CUT 1 SELF
OR
PO +S
PO +S
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
BACK
FRONT
CUT 1 SELF
GRAINLINE
S RT
As mentioned before this polo is influenced by vintage football jerseys and hooliganism. The intent is to use very breathable fabric like pique cotton similarly to Lacoste. The fit is relaxed to be work casual and formally depending on consumers style. The colours are bold and striking to match the ruse boy attitude.
PO +S
CUT 1 RIB
TS
OR
COLLAR LEAF
+S P
S
R OT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
DONÕT ADD S/A TO HEM
DONÕT ADD S/A TO HEM
POLO SLEEVE
CUT 1 PAIR SELF
+S P
TS
OR
RTS
PO +S
+S
PO
S RT
+SP
S RT
OR TS
PO +S
+S P
S+
SPO
RTS
RT
S
+S PO
+S
PO
RTS
RTS
+SPO
R OT
JOANNA GORDON SPORTSWEAR YR 4
RUNNING T -SHIRTT CAD AND GOAL
This running top inspired by the Edwardian shirt comes with features that can help consumers with casual and sporting styles. The Pintucks panelling as mentioned will help with body temperature. The neck comes with a concealed popper attachment for consumers that run with snoods. The idea is to keep the t-shirt very lightweight so using flat block stitch helps remove the bold a seam would. This will be a loose yet fitted top to help whilst running.
HALF-ZIP RUNNING TOP + SNOOD CAD AND GOAL
Similarly to the running t-shirt this half-zip comes with pooper attachment for the snood and using the pin tuck adaptation of the nikes technology to help with the cooling down process of a consumers work out.