Northern Landscape Magazine - August

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ISSUE # 05 * AUGUST 2013

www.northernlandscape.org

NORTHERN LANDSCAPE

HAVING COFFEE WITH JIM WILSON THIS IS (HI)STORY! TALKS ABOUT SIR BP FEATURED WORK

NORTHERN WINDS: The Arctic race in the XXI century INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIAL THE BIG CHALLENGE


COVER

Loch Ard,Trossachs ,Scotland by Jim Wilson Loch Ard,Trossachs ,Scotland, taken with a Nikon D90 18-105 vr lens

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FROM THE EDITOR Hello everyone!

As many of you already know, the Northern Landscape is a project that is starting to go through a change. In the September edition we are moving out of the box and starting to accept photographs from all over the place outside of the Redbubble. The theme is still going to be the same, but you will no longer need to be a part of the Redbubble group in order to get your photos on the magazine! That is explained in more detail over here in this link. But this is not all. This magazine is now starting to attract some more attention which is a good thing. With it, naturally comes money. What I am trying to say is that we no longer have a commercial free magazine. This is a project that takes a lot of effort and time, and apparently a lot of people is happy with it. So far I still haven’t received any negative criticism which is incredible, but if you do wish to give me so, please go ahead and e-mail us or post it on our RB group message board.

Editor Chief

João Figueiredo

Test readers João Figueiredo

Graphic Artist João Figueiredo

Tutorials by João Figueiredo

Web site www.northernlandscape.org

E-mail contact info@northernlandscape.org

Featured artist Jim Wilson

Anyway, in order to keep on going with this beautiful project, financing is vital. Therefore we are also starting to open ourselves for ads. Hope you don’t find this an too much uncomfortable change, I will always try to embed ads in a nice way so that the magazine won’t loose it’s spirit and therefore loose it’s charm. Please, be aware that this is an inevitability for successful projects. So I hope you do get happy and keep on giving me the support I need to keep going with this, as long as it is honest off course! Thank you for your comprehension! Hope you enjoy your reading! Your host João Figueiredo

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INDEX 02 About the cover 03 From the editor & technical data 06 Northern winds - The Arctic race in the XXI century 16 July features 90 The BIG Challenge ~ June 98 Featured artist - Jim Wilson 99 Having coffee with Jim Wilson + his Featured works 106 NLM photo tutorial #5 - Getting into the infrared photography world 114 This is (hi)story! 122 Northern Landscape: Some facts 127 Back cover artist 128 Back cover 4 • Northern Landscape Magazine


THIS AMAZING MAGAZINE IS BROUGHT TO YOU BY

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Norden winds

The Arctic race in the XXI century Read here why is there a new Arctic race taking place as we speak, what could the solution be and why are we avoiding it. Learn as well about why does this new Arctic race involves the whole world this time and not just the mos northernmost countries. Last but not least you can as well get to know new elements in the Arctic race that are being vital both to our to our lifestyle and this race but unknown to most of you. New elements that are being key players in the Arctic race in the XXI century and are driving super powers worldwide...

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ost of us learn at school that the Arctic is an area in the north of the planet that is mostly frozen and that the North Pole occupies most of it’s area. The North pole is, off course, a “no man’s land”, owned by no one, an international area sheltered by the UN. Not much happens over there, there is just ice, seals and polar bears. Sometimes I ask myself until how long will our governments keep on teaching us lies? The answer to that question probably lies in the amount of interest that a certain state has in that certain subject, but we are not here today to talk about that. Today we are talking about history repeating itself: The Arctic race!

land point). Russia did not wait a long time until in 1926 they made its claim in Soviet law (32°04′35″E to 168°49′30″W). Norway followed (5°E to 35°E) as did the United States (170°W to 141°W), but that sector contained only a few islands so the claim was not pressed. Denmark’s sovereignty over all of Greenland was recognized by the United States in 1916 and by an international court in 1933. Due to that, Denmark could also conceivably claim an Arctic sector (60°W to 10°W).

As expected, the Cold War did not help a lot. Canada forced some Inuit families to move north in order to consolidate territory. Furthermore they claim the water within the Canadian Arctic Archipelago as its own interThere has been in the nal waters. United States past many times where is one of the countries Canada forced some Inuit the Arctic has been the which do not recogtarget for a race due families to move north in nize Canada’s, or any to numerous reasons: order to consolidate ter- other countries, Arctic First off, there is real- ritory. (...) United States is archipelagic water ly no such thing as a claims, and has alleg“no man’s land”, even one of the countries which edly sent nuclear subif we are just talking do not recognize Canada’s, marines under the ice about a piece of ice. or any other countries, near Canadian islands Then because it is of requesting perArctic archipelagic water without extreme military stratemission. On the Russian gical importance (it is claims, and has allegedly side, the Presidium of much closer and sim- sent nuclear submarines the Supreme Soviet of pler for a nation in the under the ice near Canadian the USSR declared on Arctic region to fly a April 15 1926, the terislands without requesting missile over the North ritory between two Pole and hit another permission. lines (roughly 32°E and one than to fly it over 169°W) drawn from a whole bunch of different countries with all west of Murmansk to the North Pole and the consequences that such an act would from the eastern Chukchi Peninsula to the have!), economic issues (who really knows North Pole to be Soviet territory. what lies beneath all that ice?), and so on... Like I said, we are talking about history In 1996 the Ottawa Declaration established repeating itself. That’s right, this is not a new the Arctic Council as a high-level intergovissue, this is an event that had it’s first occur- ernmental forum for promoting cooperarence in the first half of the XX century. tion, coordination, and interaction among the Arctic states, with the involvement of the In 1925, Canada became the first country Arctic Indigenous communities and other in the world to extend its maritime bound- Arctic inhabitants on issues such as sustainary northward to the North Pole, between able development and environmental pro60°W and 141°W longitude, a claim that is tection. It’s members are Canada, Denmark, not universally recognized (there are in fact Finland, Iceland, Norway, Russia, Sweden, 415 nmi (769 km; 478 mi) of ocean between and the United States. You might ask yourself the North Pole and Canada’s northernmost why are Finland and Sweden represented

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in this forum since they do not have direct contact with the North Pole area. The answer is quite simple actually: Not only both countries northernmost territories are inside of the Arctic Circumpolar region but as well they share a Scandinavian region called Lapland inhabited by the Sami people, an indigenous people of the Scandinavian region. There is a lot to talk about the Sami people, but we will not talk about them today neither. The Arctic race is a very vast subject...

impossible to get a cargo ship from the north of Canada or eastern US coast to the north of Russia or Norway via Arctic circle routes due to the existence of thick ice caps, today there is no such problem! As the ice caps melt it is easier and easier to sail across the Arctic sea, and it is starting to be more and more possible to do it year around! Scientists say that at this pace, in 10 years from now, there will be an ice free summer in Greenland for instance.

Ever since the first Arctic race in the first half Imagine the effects that such an “insigof the XX century, things have been pretty nificant” thing can have in a country or even much still until the effects of global warming world economy: A whole new economy secstarted to be quite visible. With the ice melt- tor suddenly gets developed which in it’s turn ing and technology advances, it became will develop many more. The shipping sector possible to reach easier the remote places will attract new investments to build ships where before was very difficult to reach or capable of sailing on Arctic waters, which even impossible at all. As a direct conse- in it’s turn will need new or rehabilitated quence of this, many harbours in the northgovernments and pri- We can compare this to the ernmost geographical vate corporations startareas, which in it’s turn ed to finance studies on effects of the Portuguese will need new roads which resources might discoveries in the XV and XVI and rail roads, which exist under that ice centuries that caused many in it’s turn will need to sheet that we know as new workers transformations in Europe, attract North Pole. What can who will need houses surprise a lot of people as for instance, the fall of and services like banks, is that the Arctic Council the Republic of Venice, the schools, hospitals and has been one of the fall of the Arab Empire and shops to live, which in major boosters of these it’s turn will need supthe begin of the nowadays scientific studies, espepliers. The fact that cially when it comes to known religious extremist these new trading climate change, oil and ideology in the Arab world... routes open is also very gas, and Arctic shiprelevant for the profit ping. So for those who would expect that this of the big companies that trade and sell. If forum would help to protect the Arctic area, before things like a car or a banana were forget about it! very expensive in the Nunavut region (northern Canada) or on Novy Urengoy (a city on While the first two areas of research might the North of Siberia) due to transport costs, be quite obvious, the third one tends to be the picture would completely change just more unknown to the great public: Arctic because now you can sail with big cargo shipping! ships directly from southern Europe, China or South America to those areas. You don’t Arctic shipping is nothing more than the need any more to cross the Panama chanshipping of goods by ship via North Pole. nel, pay for it and sail around continents. The This is a fast growing and strong lobby in the same applies for China’s exports to Europe countries that incorporate the Arctic Council and east USA/Canada. Suddenly it gets so mostly due to the global warming effects much closer to export goods than going (here is where things start to connect to “through” Indonesia and around Africa or each other!). While 100 years ago was almost crossing the Suez canal which stays in a

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political unstable region, not to mention piracy issues in Somalia... We can compare this to the effects of the Portuguese discoveries in the XV and XVI centuries that caused many transformations in Europe, as for instance, the fall of the Republic of Venice, the fall of the Arab Empire and the begin of the nowadays known religious extremist ideology in the Arab world, or the rise of new super powers like Portugal, Spain or the Netherlands and the beginning of the global capitalist society based on consumerism and import/export that we have nowadays.

ments. Another big issue is that the world’s leader (by far) in the extraction and “production” of this material is China. China has a dominant position in the world market when it comes to extraction and selling Rare Earth Elements. What is even more interesting is that they are also the ones who manufacture most of the electronics components we use in our technology, from clocks to satellites.

This situation leads to a kind of a abusive position in the market, making possible for China to dictate the rules of the game. The newspaper The Economist says about Chinese policy on Rare Earth elements: “Slashing their exports of rare-earth metBut let’s not forget about the oil and gas als(...)is all about moving Chinese manufacexploration. This is still by far the main boost- turers up the supply chain, so they can sell er in all this since the valuable finished goods very beginning. If you to the world rather than One possible example allow me, I will replace lowly raw materials.”. One this “oil and gas” expres- of this is the division of possible example of this sion by another one that General Motors which is the division of General includes many other not Motors which deals deals with miniaturized less important resources. with miniaturized magLet’s just use the expres- magnet research, which net research, which shut sion “Natural Resources”. shut down its entire US down its entire US office I could talk about many and moved all of their office and moved all of natural resources here staff to China in 2006. A and make a whole maga- their staff to China in 2006. 2011 report issued by the zine just about them, but A 2011 report (...) says U.S. Geological Survey I will focus only on one that China’s Rare-Earth and U.S. Department (besides oil and gas) that of the Interior says very often is forgotten Industry, outlines industry that China’s Rare Earth by most of people and trends within China... Industry, outlines indusmedia: Rare Earth eletry trends within China ments! It sounds like coming out of science and examines national policies that may fiction, right? Fear not, it is not sci-fi... guide the future of the country’s production. The report notes that China’s lead in the proThe Rare Earth elements refer to a group of duction of Rare Earth minerals has acceleratseventeen chemical elements in the period- ed over the past two decades. In 1990, China ic table that are quite abundant in our planet. accounted for only 27% of such minerals. In The only problem is that very rarely they are 2009, world production was 132,000 metric found concentrated in economically exploit- tons. China produced 129,000 of those tons. able ore deposits. OK, all this is very nice, but why does one needs Rare Earth elements? But China is not alone in this issue. The United Nowadays world is only possible to Rare States Geological Survey is actively surveying Earth elements because they are needed southern Afghanistan for rare earth deposits to produce electronics. In other words, there under the protection of United States miliwould not be any computers, internet, satel- tary forces (yes, the same Afghanistan that lites, or even a calculator that you can carry was invaded in the fight against terrorism!). on your pocket without these Rare Earth ele- Since 2009 the USGS has conducted

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remote sensing surveys as well as fieldwork along with increasingly navigable polar shipto verify Soviet claims that volcanic rocks ping shortcuts. This year, China has become containing Rare Earth metals exist in Helmand a far more aggressive player (…) To promote province near the village of Khanneshin. The the council bid and improve relations with USGS study team has located a sizeable area Arctic nations, its ministers visited Denmark, of rocks in the center of an extinct volcano Sweden and Iceland this summer, offering containing light Rare Earth elements. It has lucrative trade deals. High-level diplomats mapped 1.3 million metric tons of desirable have also visited Greenland, where Chinese rock, or about 10 years of supply at current companies are investing in a developing demand levels. The Pentagon has estimated mining industry, with proposals to import its value at about US$7.4 billion. Any thoughts? Chinese work crews for construction. Rare Earth elements are not exchange-traded in the same way that precious or non-ferrous Western nations have been particularly anxmetals (for instance, gold and silver, nickel, ious about Chinese overtures to this poor tin, copper, and aluminium) are. Instead they and sparsely populated island, a self-govare sold on the private market, which makes erning state within the Kingdom of Denmark, their prices difficult to monitor and track. The because the retreat of its ice cap has unveiled 17 elements (that compose Rare Earth) are coveted mineral deposits, including Rare not usually sold in their Earth metals that are pure form, but instead its ministers visited crucial for new technolare distributed in mix- Denmark, ogies like cellphones Sweden and tures of varying purity, and military guidance e.g. “Neodymium metal Iceland this summer, offer- systems. The European ≥ 99%”. As such, pric- ing lucrative trade deals. Union vice president, ing can vary based on High-level diplomats have Antonio Tajani, rushed the quantity and qualto Greenland’s also visited Greenland, here ity required by the end capital in June, offering where Chinese companies hundreds of millions user’s application. are investing in a devel- in development aid in Now that I have made oping mining industry, with exchange for guarana point, it is time to go tees that Greenland proposals to import Chinese back to our geographiwould not give China cal area. But first, there work crews for construc- exclusive access to its is a very big detail that tion. Rare Earth metals, callis important here: most ing his trip “raw minof these Rare Earth Elements are found in eral diplomacy.” (…) “We are treated so diflarge amounts under the sea water! So, if ferently than just a few years ago,” said Jens we investigate which are the countries that B. Frederiksen, Greenland’s vice premier, in already are in the top 10 of Rare Earth ele- his simple office here. “We are aware that is ments “production”, we will find Canada, because we now have something to offer, Greenland (Denmark) and USA (by this spe- not because they’ve suddenly discovered cific order) in it. that Inuit are nice people.” (…) China’s economy is heavily dependent on exports, and the An article on the New York Times say: “NUUK, polar route saves time, distance and money Greenland — With Arctic ice melting at record to and from elsewhere in Asia and Europe, pace, the world’s superpowers are increas- compared with traversing the Suez Canal. (…) ingly jockeying for political influence and experts estimate that more than 20 percent economic position in outposts like this one, of the world’s oil and gas reserves are in the previously regarded as barren wastelands. Arctic.”. At stake are the Arctic’s abundant supplies of oil, gas and minerals that are, thanks to So, based on all this, could we say that we climate change, becoming newly accessible know now why are our governments

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constantly failing in getting to an agreement about global warming? What is the future of billions of people worldwide that will be seriously affected by the side effects of this madness called Arctic race? Perhaps it is time to stop for a minute and put all the cards in the table and get a realistic picture of what is actually being done and where are we aiming for for our future. Perhaps It is time to consider the consequences of the melting of the ice caps and come up with a plan. Perhaps there are alternatives to the melting of the ice caps if world governments invest in new technologies for drilling, mining and facility heating instead?

there is always a problem! - that this solution is not faced seriously by most of us due to the attitude of worldwide governments, but especially USA’s government in the last decades. I do explain and I hope you do take me seriously or at least give me a chance and read the article to the end.

A small group of millionaire people and big companies worldwide have been making substantial investments in the private space industry. This investment could be bigger and space industry could be as well bigger and more profitable by today, if NASA and the USA’s governments would not have practically abandoned the space program Many questions, “ifs” and most various sce- after the last Apollo mission! This attitude (for narios about this issue will most definitely many explained by alien conspiracy theories, be made by everyone, for me explained by each one according to economic and political the interest of each sin- This strategy is even stron- lobbies) made people gle person, corporation ger when it gets combined worldwide lose faith in and government. But space exploration and with the ridiculousness the fact is, no matter create the fake idea what is the consensus used by many sectors of that space is only posthat we might come to, our society (many of those sible in science fiction this Arctic race will not politic sectors or controlled movies. This strategy stop, especially when is even stronger when world’s oil, gas and by politicians) to talk about it gets combined with Rare Earth elements this subject. If you want to the ridiculousness used reserves are getting destroy something, the best by many sectors of our more and more nar(many of those way to do it is to make a society row and expensive/ politic sectors or conprofitable, at the same joke out of it! trolled by politicians) to time that our civilization talk about this subject. makes the transition to a new technological If you want to destroy something, the best era where demand for oil derivative products way to do it is to make a joke out of it! And like cosmetics and plastics or Rare Earth what does the space exploration has to do elements essential to build our Hi-tech and with the Arctic race and the global warming green technologies such as windmill genera- issues talked here? Everything! tors, satellites, communications or factories, is not slowing down. So, right now we can Like I said, there have been in the last decade ask ourselves a very important question – some substantial investments in the private and perhaps the most important of them space industry. One of those companies all: What could the solution be? If we are to is Planetary Resources that is determined leave fossil fuels and coal, if we are to go to start space mining which many people green, if we are to preserve the planet, we involved into NASA and USA’s governments need those resources! What is the solution? I already came to public to criticize and mock. am no specialist so in deed I can only search Planetary Resources honestly state in their among all the hypothesis that I know of and website that their goal is to extract Rare Earth try to aim for the most reasonable one, at elements and they claim that “Once we are least in my eyes. The problem is – and yes, able to access, process, and utilize asteroid

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water resources, mining metals becomes are both our imagination and will – and those more feasible. Some near-Earth asteroids will define how much money we will have to contain platinum group metals in much spend! higher concentrations than the richest Earth mines. In space, a single platinum-rich 500 On the other hand, there will be enormous meter wide asteroid contains about 174 times pressure from mining and oil companies the yearly world output of platinum, and 1.5 from all around the world against these kind times the known world-reserves of platinum of projects due to financial interests. Not to group metals (ruthenium, rhodium, palla- mention that many NASA departments and dium, osmium, iridium, and platinum). This private companies cooperating with NASA amount is enough to fill a basketball court to would join this mining and drilling lobby four times the height of the rim. By contrast, against space exploration. Contradicting? In all of the platinum group metals mined to fact, I am writing all this wrong, because I date in history would not reach waist-high am using verbs in the past when I should on that same basketball court. Asteroids also be using them in the present! If you invescontain more common metallic elements tigate yourselves, you can easily find much such as iron, nickel, and cobalt, sometimes information about this contradiction which in incredible quantities. In addition to water, is NASA lobbying against space exploration. other volatiles, such as nitrogen, CO, CO2, But the four most obvious and best known and methane, exist in quantities sufficient to examples known to the general public are: warrant extraction and utilization.”. Another The end of the Apollo “What NASA bureaucracy 1.missions. similar company betWhy? decided to do is basically ting on space mining is Deep Space Industries. design the most complex 2. Right now, besides mission you possibly could space probes to other Again, most of you are planets, humans are not in order to make sure that probably thinking right reaching beyond lower now that I am dreaming everyone’s pet technology orbit – just above our too much. “Stop watch- would remain mission criti- atmosphere and not ing Moonraker and really considered to be cal, which is the exact oppoput your feet on the called “space”. Why? ground!” – right? But site of the correct way to do the fact is that space engineering.” 3. The abandon of the mining is closer than Space Shuttle and the ever, especially after 3D printer technology almost freezing of funds from USA’s governdevelopment which allows us to “print” out ments and NASA for new, more effective, machines (piece by piece) remotely con- safe and cheaper space flight technologies. trolled from Earth or in an automatic way. Why? Scientists have already developed a system that allows humans to send specific 3D print- 4. The constant cancellation of crewed Mars er robots to the moon and use the moon soil missions. Why? to “print” a moon base that could easily be assembled by robots similar to those we are Here comes the answer: Robert Zubrin, an sending to Mars. If you don’t believe me, you American aerospace engineer behind Mars can see and read all the information about Direct — a proposal intended to produce sigthis technology directly from the horse’s nificant reductions in the cost and complexmouth at the ESA (European Space Agency) ity of a Mars mission and colonization — that web site, where you can even see a photo worked several times for and with NASA says of a printed solid block made with simulated loud and clear in the documentary “The Mars moon soil by one of these 3D printer robots. Underground” (directed by James Cameron) From this moment on, our only limitations why have humans stopped with space

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exploration: “What NASA bureaucracy decided to do is basically design the most complex mission you possibly could in order to make sure that everyone’s pet technology would remain mission critical, which is the exact opposite of the correct way to do engineering.” While what he wants to do is “...literally come up with the leanest solution, the one that involved the least spending on an assortment of technologies and infrastructure elements including for example: we made no use or whatsoever of the International Space Station.” Which had as a consequence “...so people involved in those (NASA) programs were very upset because we were showing that we could go to Mars without their program to be required. They though that we were de-justifying them...”. David Baker, part of the team lead by Robert Zubrin and also a space engineer that worked for and with NASA claims in the same documentary: “NASA didn’t want to pursue a Mars mission at that time! They didn’t want to be derailed by a bunch of Mars fanatics that thought that their idea of what NASA should do should overwhelm what NASA thought that NASA should do.”.

how much they should pollute and kill our planet? Who can believe that billions of dollars and huge egos do not play any role in the Arctic race, both in the XX and XXI centuries? And what are we supposed to do besides putting the pieces together and getting more aware? We can do exactly that: get aware! Get aware and do not let yourself let go by a politician’s lies and manipulations every time that there are elections! Demand what was promised to you during the electoral campaign! Be sure to not to vote for the same lies again on the next election day! Take initiative! Do bother! If you do not do it, nobody else will! And if nobody else will care, what is to be of our home? Sources used directly and indirectly in this article: Wikipedia, New York Times, ESA, NASA, State of the Planet blog from the Earth Institute of the Columbia University, The Arctic Institute, arcticwarming.net, SVT, Deep Space Industries, Planetary Resources, The Mars Society, Discovery Channel, The Economist, U.S. Geological Survey, U.S. Department of the Interior

The conclusion we can take from this is terrifying. Not only we, human species are deliberately warming up the planet due to financial reasons – so that we can explore the mineral resources of the poles – but as well we are doing it for ego issues. If those issues could be surpassed (especially the ego one, since the economical interest issue can always be fought with another economical interest), most likely no Arctic race nor global warming would be happening today, or at least at the scary pace that it is happening today! The worse part is that most of people worldwide are so into their own lives that all this is just oblivious to them, leaving plenty of space for the politics demagogy and manipulation of facts. And remember: the biggest lie out there is that all of this is fake or a conspiracy theory. Sure, I am just delirious. But in fact, who can really believe that world governments cannot come to a consensus, year after year about

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July Featu W

e have had a whole new batch of new users in our group this last month which is just great! New blood is allways appreciated! You are very much welcome! Some of them have already some artwork featured and exhibited over here, can’t wait to see your stuff on our monthly BIG Challenges! But, surprise surprise, we are still getting some amazing photography! It is a pleasure to be moderator of such a group with such an amazing group of talented people who

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day after day keep on submiting great photography! It’s not a hard work... And now, enjoy our features!


ures 132 FEATURES

31 DAYS

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pure lan

Slieve League, Ireland~ ~Ludwig Wagner 18 • Northern Landscape Magazine


ndscape

Clachan Of Campsie, Scotland~ ~Jim Wilson

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Seven Sisters, East Sussex~ ~Ludwig Wagner

Loch Thoirbheartan ~ Ranald 20 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Still Waters~ ~jules572

Rock Garden~ ~VoluntaryRanger

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Nisabost, Isle of Harris~ ~Justin Foulkes

SOMETIMES ITS BLEAK...~ ~johnrace

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Alaskan Range and Wonder Lake ~ Graeme Hyde


Fresh Tracks~ ~Charles Kosina Harris: Beach Vista~ ~Kasia-D

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Winter~ ~UpNorthPhoto Threatening~ ~Kasia-D

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Brotherswater Winter~ ~Andrew Airey

Boulders~ ~John Thurgood

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Mountain near Field, British Columbia~ ~Charles Kosina

Garell Glen, Kilsyth, Scotland~ ~Jim Wilson 26 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Tagish Lake - Windy Arm~ ~Yukondick

PROUD ONE..~ ~johnrace

Assynt 4 ~ Ian Mac

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The Storr~ ~Peter Gallagher

buttercup hill..~ ~johnrace 28 • Northern Landscape Magazine


North Uist: Vallay Beach - Traigh Bhalaig~ ~Kasia-D

Peace~ ~Mark Williams

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Moose~ ~Mark Williams

Above Buttermere ~ VoluntaryRanger

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Out of the Blue~ ~Kasia-D

Seven Sisters from near Birling Gap~ ~Steve

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Frozen Tree II, Northern Ireland ~ Ludwig Wagner

Waterfall in Geirangerfjorden~ ~julie08

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Crowfoot Glacier and Bow Lake~ ~Charles Kosina

Buttermere From The Ascent Of Haystacks~ ~VoluntaryRanger Northern Landscape Magazine • 33


Haytor Quarry, Devon~ ~kalaryder

Morning Mood ~ Kasia-D 34 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Ullswater View~ ~Andrew Airey

Dornoch Bay ~ Ranald

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Lunar Landscape ~ Karen Scrimes

Northern (Icelandic) Birch~ ~Karen Scrimes 36 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Fitzsimmons Creek~ ~Charles Kosina

The Mendenhall Glacier on a Blue Sky Day, Alaska~ ~Gerda Grice

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Sunset over Derwent Water ~ JMChown

Loch Ossian - Scottish Highlands~ ~Kat 38Simmons • Northern Landscape Magazine


Golden fields in rural Alberta~ ~Jeanne McRight

Sunlit River Coe~ ~kernuak

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Newgale Sands~ ~Tim Topping

Serene Harmony~ ~Evelina Kremsdorf

High Arctic Beauty ~ Phil Bain 40 • Northern Landscape Magazine


First Light On Higger Tor~ ~John Dunbar

Mt McKinley and Reflection Lake, Denali N. P., Alaska USA~ ~Margaret Hyde

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Talus Slope Overlooking Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada~ ~Jeanne McRight

Rising Mist, Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada~ ~Jeanne McRight

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Rocky Mountain High~ ~AnnDixon

Cool Sensation~ ~Evelina Kremsdorf

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Peyto Lake - A Shooting Star~ ~Chantal PhotoPix

Eureka!~ ~Kasia-D

Heavens Of Glory_2 ~ sundawg7 44 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Hraunfossar~ ~Hraunfossar

Stones in Water~ Northern Landscape Magazine • 45 ~Oscar Karlsson


Selfoss on Mid-Sommer night~ ~Karen Scrimes

Evening Snow on a Quiet Lake~ ~Jeanne McRight 46 • Northern Landscape Magazine


Elgol. Sunset in Winter. Isle of Skye. Scotland.~ ~photosecosse /barbara jones

From Fyne to Glen Kinglass ~ Ranald

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Harris: Huisinis~ ~Kasia-D

Swedish archipelago ~ Oscar Karlsson

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man to

SHEEP SHED ON THE MOORS...~ ~johnrace

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ouched

Swedish Winter~ ~Mark Williams

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Trees in The Mist.~ ~Carla Maloco

Weardale Snow~ ~Andrew Airey

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Charles Kosina~ ~Ludwig Wagner

Morning on Kodiak Bay ~ Graeme Hyde

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Autumn in Battersea Park~ ~Ludwig Wagner Troll Peninsula~ ~Roddy Atkinson

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Norwegian houses~ ~Arie Koene

Loweswater Spring~ ~Andrew Airey Northern Landscape Magazine • 55


A Field near Windover Hill~ ~Ludwig Wagner TIRED OUT..~ ~johnrace

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Three Trees - Butchart Gardens~ ~Yannik Hay

Balloon sunset~ ~LadyFi

Northern Landscape Magazine • 57


Architecture 4~ ~BKSPicture

Winter Farm I~ ~Ludwig Wagner

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AWAY FROM IT ALL~ ~johnrace

Oppstryn - Norway~ ~Arie Koene

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Peel Bay on a Summer’s Day~ ~Sammie Caine

EVENING LIGHT ULLAPOOL~ ~johnrace

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Country lane with view of Stoodley Pike~ ~David Barker Old farmhouse~ ~UpNorthPhoto

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Stepping Stones~ ~Kat Simmons The Five Sisters Of Kintail~ ~VoluntaryRanger

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Alum Bay~ ~Steve

Lewis: Port Ness Bay~ ~Kasia-D

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Cap Bon-Ami~ ~PhotosByHealy

Ruegen: Out for the Catch~ ~Kasia-D

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Needles Rocks and Lighthouse~ ~Steve

Grand Vallée~ ~PhotosByHealy

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Sunset at Hikivuori~ ~Niko Mรถnkkรถnen

Stigmata~ ~Paul Richards

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Weir ~ Pa

Gamla Åminne ways~ ~João Figueiredo

“You take the high road and.....”~ ~Nancy Richard

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Trees in a lake near Lom - Norway~ ~Arie Koene

Double Arch - View From My Balcony~ ~jules572

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open field~ ~Manon Boily

Eyemouth Harbour~ ~Nigel Bangert

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Hazy days of summer~ ~Steve Oppstryn - Norway~ ~Arie Koene

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Moody Loch Fyne~ ~Sue Knowles

Clear light~ ~Clear light

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Loch Ard Boathouse,Kinlochard,Scotland~ ~Jim Wilson

Briksdal - Norway~ ~Arie Koene

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North Uist: Stonehouse~ ~Kasia-D

Islay: Across to The Paps of Jura~ ~Kasia-D

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Change of weather~ ~Arie Koene

Boattrip on the Geirangerfjord~ ~Arie Koene

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Barra: Kisimul Castle Morning~ ~Kasia-D Cold winters day along the river Glomma, Elverum, Norway.~ ~UpNorthPhoto

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Somewhere.....~ ~Jeanie

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man m

Islay: Port Ellen Enlightened~ ~Kasia-D

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made

Summer Fields at Arncliffe~ ~Kat Simmons Northern Landscape Magazine • 79


Sun Voyager~ ~Evelina Kremsdorf

Have A Little Faith~ ~Evelina Kremsdorf

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Caerlaverock Castle~ ~Roddy Atkinson

seyรฐisfjรถrรฐur, iceland ~ gary roberts Northern Landscape Magazine โ ข 81


The Lucky Tree~ ~Kat Simmons Bridge over the river Glomma, Elverum, Norway. Winter evening.~ ~UpNorthPhoto

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Bodiam Castle~ ~Steve

Islay: Port Charlotte Dawn~ ~Kasia-D

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North Uist: The red-rooved Cottage~ ~Kasia-D

Atlin, British Columbia~ ~Harry Snowden

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Islay: Port Ellen Harbour Dusk~ ~Kasia-D

The Wonky Gate~ ~Kat Simmons

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Along the flow~ ~Stuart Mcguire Reflection in skyscraper window. Oslo, Norway.~ ~UpNorthPhoto

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Nordiska museet side shot~ ~João Figueiredo

End of the Road ~ Stuart Mcguire

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Tooting Station, London~ ~Ludwig Wagner Chisholm’s Mills~ ~PhotosByHealy

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Vancouver Skyline~ ~AnnDixon

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THE BIG CHAL 90 • Northern Landscape Magazine


38 ENTRIES 79 VOTES 1 WINNER 5 DAYS FOR VOTING

LLENGE ~ JULY Northern Landscape Magazine • 91


LOCH ARD,TROSSACHS ,SCOTLAND

MIGHTY DETTIFOSS 92 • Northern Landscape Magazine

JIM WILSON

RODDY ATKINSON

11 VOTES

10 VOTES


The BIG top ten

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LAYERED HILLS IN EARLY MORNING MIST, ALGONQUIN PARK, ON GERDA GRICE

SEVEN SISTERS, EAST SUSSEX

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10 VOTES

LUDWIG WAGNER

9 VOTES


MOODY LOCH FYNE

SUNLIT RIVER COE

SUE KNOWLES

KERNUAK

8 VOTES

7 VOTES

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TOMBSTONE MOUNTAINS AND GRIZZLY LAKE

YUKONDICK

6 VOTES

SETON LAKE, BRITISH COLUMBIA, PANORAMA

YANNIK HAY

6 VOTES

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DORNOCH BAY

FITZSIMMONS CREEK

6 VOTES

RANALD

CHARLES KOSINA

6 VOTES

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JIM WILSON

Featured artist

H

ere is yet another amazing photographer and active member of our community. With a staggering shot he manage to take home the victory with 11 votes in another BIG Challenge that broke once again all our group’s records, both in number of entries and votes! Now, that is an amazing achievement!

Ladies and Gentleman, directly from Glasgow, Scotland to the whole world: Jim Wilson with his featured work!

# When did you join Redbubble? I joined Redbubble July 2010. # What can you tell us about yourself? I’m a service engineer with Toyota Material Handling, aged 57 from Kilsyth in Scotland.

LOCH ARD BOATHOUSE,KINLOCHARD,SCOTLAND 98 • Northern Landscape Magazine


INTERVIEW

# How does photography fit in your life? And where do you want to get with it? Photography has become a bit of an obssesion for me. Most weekends involve getting

out of bed at stupid o’ clock to go and capture sunrises that only occasionally appear, i prefer doing landscapes but i have a two year old Grandaughter called Skye who i practise portrait work on and enjoy it very much.

# What photographic gear do you have? As for Photography gear, I started with a

Canon Powershot S3i then moved to Nikon, my first DSLR was a Nikon D40 which i thought was a great little camera, my current camera is a Nikon D90 and im just about to upgrade to the Nikon D7100 within the next week, my lenses are 18-55 vr, 55-200vr, 18-105vr and 50mm 1.4 prime. I have various Cokin filters ND grads which i find useful for landscape and waterfalls etc.

Having coffee with Jim Wilson + his Featured works Northern Landscape Magazine • 99


GARELL GLEN,KILSYTH,SCOTLAND

GARELL GLEN, KILSYTH, SCOTLAND 100 • Northern Landscape Magazine


# How does it feel to win our BIG CHALLENGE and have such a feature on our monthly magazine? Well to say i was gobsmacked is an understatement, just to be

included with some of the fantastic work that was entered was fantastic, but to win was just brilliant ! Can’t wait to see the magazine!

# Tell us about the winning shot! The winning shot was taken early at a small Scottish

Loch in the Trossachs, Loch Ard sometimes called the Jewel of the Trossachs. The morning light was pretty good, set up the tripod and got some nice shots before the rain brought and end to that mornings shoot.

SERENITY

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CLACHAN OF CAMPSIE, SCOTLAND

FALLS OF DOCHART, KILLIN, SCOTLAND 102 • Northern Landscape Magazine


# Describe us how would your perfect photo be! My perfect photo would be a stormy morning or evening set in Glencoe Scotland or the Isle Of Skye.

# Any other thoughts that you want to put out there? My dream job would be to photograph all the incredible scenery around the world. Oh well, we can all dream!

TIGH MOR,TROSSACHS,SCOTLAND

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WANT TO BE FEATURED?

DON’T LOSE OUR NE

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EXT

LOCH ARD,TROSSACHS ,SCOTLAND THE WINNER OF OUR BIG CHALLENGE ~ JULY

BIG CHALLENGE!

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NLM PHOTO T GETTING INTO THE INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD Infrared photography can be pretty unknown to many people. When the name “Infrared” comes up, the first image that pops out in the heads of most of us is that popularized Hollywood image of action movies where some soldier or thief has infrared goggles and sees everything in red tones. Believe it or not, infrared photography is much more that that image! Sit tight, you are about to find out about a whole new world...

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TUTORIAL #5

NG ANYTHING AT ALL EXCEPT THE “USUAL” SOFTWARE: ADOBE PHOTOSHOP! Northern Landscape Magazine • 107


F

or this tutorial I will be using an old JPG photo from the time when I was still shooting in JPG. You can chose the file format you will, as long as it works for you! This photo of mine was taken in March 2012 in the middle of the farming fields in the deep southern Swedish countryside, near the village of Ås in Gislaved’s municipality. Enough about my shot, let’s jump into the tut, right? I will be using Adobe Photoshop CC for this tutorial but I trust you can use this tutorial for any other CS version since not much has been changed ever CS1 in what concerns the names and places of the commands. As said before, this tutorial is not about Infrared photography for those who already have the proper gear. Perhaps I will be writing about that in some other issue, today I will be teaching about Infrared photo for people who have nothing but a normal camera, even if it is a point and shoot camera! Here we go!

BEFORE YOU START: Before you start, check you camera. Some cameras already capture Infrared light. The best you can do is to read the users manual, or google it. If you wish, you can always buy the filter. If you want to slip all this work, you can always buy an Infrared filter but you will still need some Photoshop work... Before you make any decisions, make a quick research on-line and find out what is the best solution for you. In the meanwhile you can always try out this tutorial first and take your own conclusions after...

A LIST OF SOFTWARE YOU CAN USE: Here are some programs you can use to create Infrared photography:

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1-

Adobe Photoshop. What a surprise,

huh?

2-

If you don’t want to use Photoshop (what ever the reason is), you can always find out on a quick on-line research free software for making your Infrared photos. Be careful!! If you are going to sell your photos and are using a free software, check first which kind of software you have. Many of those free software you can find on-line can be used only for NON-COMMERCIAL works!

3-

A camera. As said before, you don’t even need an DSLR camera. Any camera will do!

4-

A motif. Be careful when choosing a motif. If you want to convert your shot into Infrared then remember that your motif has to be rich in blue colors, otherwise the final result can be disappointing. It will all depend off course on your wish, but the more blue, the bigger the effect...

5-

If you are thinking about combining this technique with a long exposure, don’t forget you will need a CPL filter, ND filter, Big stopper or anything alike!

GETTING YOUR HANDS DIRTY!

1 -

Open your fabulous shot into Photoshop and duplicate the layer. You can press the button on the Layers panel you can press CMD/CTRL + J or just go to the Image menu, and press Duplicate layer. We are going to be working on this layer the whole time...

2-

Now that you have duplicated your layer, let’s invert the colors. Just press CMD/


CTRL + I or once again, go to the Image menu, Adjustments and press Invert. Pretty wacky result? More or less similar to the photo on the right? Not to worry mate! Let’s go to the step number 3 and make some sweet photography!

3 -

Here is where things start to be more personalized and advanced. Here we are going to change the Blending mode of your copied layer. Check in the image on the right if you don’t know were you can do that. I decided that I wanted to change my Blending mode into “Color”, but you can chose some other one that fits best into your objectives. Generally speaking it is a good sign if you can see a lot of orange tones.

4 -

Now we are going to go to our Channel Mixer. Select Layer menu, chose New Adjustment Layer option and then Channel mixer, or just select the panel from the adjustment layers panel. The image on the bottom right gives you a good visual of how it should look like (with some differences depending on your Photoshop version). Here we are going to select the red color channel and move the red slider to 0. Still on the red channel, put the blue color on the 100. The green channel should be on 0. Now let’s move into the blue color channel and do the opposite: Move the red color channel into 100 and the blue into 0. On the green channel we just make sure that the green color is on 100 and all other in 0. Depending on your shot (how much blue color you have in your photo - and remember that blue color is not only the blue you see but as well the blue mixed with other colors as in RGB) and on the Blending mode you chose earlier, your result can vary a lot. Due to this I will not show you an image of how my photo looks like right now.

5 -

Time to move on to the Hue and saturation. Open that panel directly from the list of panels you have on your right side or else just use the Select Layer menu, go to

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New Adjustment Layer and click on Hue and Saturation. Once again, depending on your Photoshop version, the panel should look more or less like the image on the right, or at the very least, show the same options. Over here we are going to convert pink/ red color into white/yellow color. We will be doing this by changing the red channel in the hue and saturation panel. So select the red channel and reduce the saturation as much as it is needed to make all red/pinkish tones into grey. Then we adjust the hue slider until you get a hint of yellow. If this is not working out, don’t make undo! Increase the Lightness to as much as you need and if you still are not getting any yellow tones, try sliding your slider on those bottom rainbow colored bars into the yellow tones. If you are still having problems in getting some yellows, or you ‘re simply not happy, feel free to play with the other channels. Bellow is how my image looks like at this point, after I made all these adjustments described previously.

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6-

If you have survived all this, let me tell you that we are almost in the end now. The next step is to add a photo filter on our photo. Go directly to the photo filters on your panels or go to the menu Layer then New Adjustment Layer and select Photo Filter to add a cool blue photo filter. Actually, you can add what filter you want, but if you really want to have a Infrared shot, you have to go for a cooling filter or in alternative, a blue filter. On the right, you can see how the panel can look like and the filter I have chosen. After you chose your filter, you can also play with the Density in order to achieve the desired effect.

7-

You are pretty much done. Now you can add your own knowledge, like for instance I added a bit of contrast and removed a bit of brightness. Furthermore I also burned a bit the sky so that the blue of the sky would gain a bigger contrast. If you are not happy with the final result, that can depend on the amount of blue color you have present on your shot or on the way you manipulated your shot under all these previous steps. So, if that is so, go back and redo/ edit all these steps until you achieved the desirable result!

Here you can see some great examples of great Infrared photography!

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FINAL RESULT!

WANT TO SEND US YOUR TUTORIAL? M

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MAIL US TO:

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INFO@NORTHERNLANDSCAPE.ORG


This is (h

COME AND READ ABOUT THE EXCITING LIFE OF AN ENGLISH MAN THAT FOREVER 114 • Northern Landscape Magazine


hi)story! Robert Stephenson Smyth BadenPowell. Is this name familiar to you? It is for many millions of people around the world, find out why right here...

R CHANGED THE WORLD. WAR HERO, GENERAL, EXPLORER AND SO MUCH MORE... Northern Landscape Magazine • 115


E

very Brit should be familiar with the man we are talking about today. HE was not only a hero but a man who changed world’s history forever. Robert Stephenson Smyth BadenPowell was born in 22 February 1857 at 6 Stanhope Street (now 11 Stanhope Terrace), Paddington in London. He was raised by his mother (after his father died when he was 3), a strong woman who was determined that her children would succeed. Baden-Powell would say of her in 1933 “The whole secret of my getting on, lay with my mother.” Baden-Powell was awarded with a scholarship to Charterhouse, a prestigious public school. In school he developed some skills through stalking and cooking game while avoiding teachers in the nearby woods, which were strictly out-of-bounds. He also played the piano and violin, was an ambidextrous artist, and enjoyed acting. His holidays were spent on yachting or canoeing expeditions with his many brothers. After studies Baden-Powell applied to the army and in fact was so good that he manage to enter the institution as an Officer. In 1876, R.S.S. Baden-Powell, as he styled himself then, joined the 13th Hussars in India with the rank of lieutenant. He enhanced and honed

his military scouting skills amidst the Zulu in the early 1880s in the Natal province of South Africa, where his regiment had been posted, and where he was Mentioned in Despatches. Baden-Powell’s skills impressed his superiors and he was brevetted Major as Military Secretary and senior Aide-de-camp of the Commander-in-Chief and Governor of Malta, his uncle General Sir Henry Augustus Smyth. He was posted in Malta for three years, also working as intelligence officer for the Mediterranean for the Director of Military Intelligence. He frequently travelled disguised as a butterfly collector, incorporating plans of military installations into his drawings of butterfly wings. Baden-Powell returned to Africa in 1896, and served in the Second Matabele War, in the expedition to relieve British South Africa Company personnel under siege in Bulawayo. This was a formative experience for him not only because he had the time of his life commanding reconnaissance missions into enemy territory in the Matobo Hills, but because many of his later Boy Scout ideas took hold here. Yes, Baden-Powell was later on the founder of a worldwide Scouts movement, by accident. But we will talk more about that later on. First there is a lot more to be told about his amazing and adveturous life. After Rhodesia, Baden-Powell served in the Fourth Ashanti War in Gold Coast. In 1897, at the age of 40, he was brevetted colonel (the youngest colonel in the British Army) and given command of the 5th Dragoon Guards in India. Baden-Powell returned to South Africa before the Second Boer War and was engaged in further military actions against the Zulus. He organised the Legion of Frontiersmen to assist the regular army. While engaged in this, he was at Mafeking when it was surrounded by a Boer army, at times in excess of 8,000 men. Baden-Powell became garrison commander during the subsequent Siege of Mafeking, which lasted 217 days. Although greatly outnumbered, the garrison held out until relieved, in part thanks to cunning deceptions devised by BadenPowell. Fake minefields were planted and his soldiers pretended to avoid non-existent

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ROBERT BADEN-POWELL AND HIS STAFF AT MAFEKING

barbed wire while moving between trenches. Baden-Powell did most of the reconnaissance work himself. In one instance noting that the Boers had not removed the rail line, Baden-Powell loaded an armoured locomotive with sharpshooters and successfully sent it down the rails into the heart of the Boer encampment and back again in a strategic attempt to decapitate the Boer leadership. Contrary views of Baden-Powell’s actions during the siege argue that his success in resisting the Boers was secured at the expense of the lives of the native African soldiers and civilians, including members of his own African garrison. Pakenham stated that Baden-Powell drastically reduced the rations to the native garrison. However, in 2001, after subsequent research, Pakenham decidedly retreated from this position. During the siege, the Mafeking Cadet Corps of white boys below fighting age stood guard, carried messages, assisted in hos-

pitals, and so on, freeing grown men to fight. Baden-Powell did not form the Cadet Corps himself, and there is no evidence that he took much notice of them during the Siege. But he was sufficiently impressed with both their courage and the equanimity with which they performed their tasks to use them later as an object lesson in the first chapter of Scouting for Boys. The siege was lifted on 16 May 1900. Baden-Powell was promoted to Major-General, and became a national hero. After organising the South African Constabulary, the national police force, he returned to England to take up a post as Inspector General of Cavalry in 1903. While holding this point, Baden-Powell was instrumental in reforming reconnaissance training in British cavalry, giving the force an important advantage in scouting ability over continental rivals. In 1907 he was appointed to command a division in the newly-formed Territorial Force. In 1910 Lieutenant-General Baden-Powell decided to retire from the Army, reputedly on the advice of King Edward VII, who suggested that he could

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better serve his country by promoting and self-reliance. It was also during this time Scouting. in the Matobo Hills that Baden-Powell first started to wear his signature campaign hat On the outbreak of World War I in 1914, like the one worn by Burnham, and it was Baden-Powell put himself at the disposal of here that Baden-Powell acquired his Kudu the War Office. No command was given him, horn, the Ndebele war instrument he later for, as Lord Kitchener said: “he could lay his used every morning at Brownsea Island to hand on several competent divisional gener- wake the first Boy Scouts and to call them als but could find no one who could carry together in training courses. on the invaluable work of the Boy Scouts.” It was widely rumoured that Baden-Powell was During the Second Boer War, Baden-Powell engaged in spying, and intelligence officers was besieged in the small town of Mafeking took great care to spread the myth. by a much larger Boer army (the Siege of Mafeking). The Mafeking Cadet Corps was But what takes a war hero, a famous a a group of youths that supported the troops feared General to create such thing as a by carrying messages, which freed the men Scout Movement? When Baden-Powell was for military duties and kept the boys occuin Africa and India by in the 1880s and 1890s pied during the long siege. The Cadet Corps he noticed that the things he had learned in performed well, helping in the defense of his growing up process (he had been fond of the town (1899–1900), and were one of the woodcraft and military scouting) showed his many factors that inspired Baden-Powell to men how to survive in the wilderness. He also form the Scouting movement. Each member noticed that it helped the soldiers to develop received a badge that illustrated a comindependence rather than just blindly follow bined compass point and spearhead. The officers’ orders. Practiced by frontiersmen of badge’s logo was similar to the fleur-de-lis the American Old West and Indigenous peo- that Scouting later adopted as its internaples of the Americas, woodcraft was gener- tional symbol. ally unknown to the British, but well known to the American scout Burnham. These In the United Kingdom, the public followed skills eventually formed the basis of what is Baden-Powell’s struggle to hold Mafeking now called scoutcraft, the fundamentals of through newspapers, and when the siege Scouting. Both men recognised that wars was broken, he had become a national hero. in Africa were changing markedly and the This rise to fame fuelled the sales of a small British Army needed to adapt; so during their instruction book he had written about milijoint scouting missions, Baden-Powell and tary scouting, Aids to Scouting. On his return Burnham discussed the concept of a broad to England, he noticed that boys showed training programme in woodcraft for young considerable interest in the book, which was men, rich in exploration, tracking, fieldcraft, used by teachers and youth organizations. He was suggested by several to rewrite this book for boys, especially during an inspection of the Boys’ Brigade, a large youth movement drilled with military precision. Baden-Powell thought this would not be attractive and suggested that it could grow much larger when scouting would be used. He studied other schemes, parts of which he used for Scouting. In July 1906, Ernest Thompson Seton sent Baden-Powell a copy of his book The Birchbark Roll of the Woodcraft Indians. Seton, a British-born Canadian-American

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ROBERT BADEN-POWELL WITH FUTURE SCOUTS ON BROWNSEA ISLAND

Movement. Scouting for Boys first appeared in England in January 1908 as six fortnightly installments, and was published in England later in 1908 in book form. The book is now the fourth-bestselling title of all time.

living in the United States, met Baden-Powell in October 1906, and they shared ideas about youth training programs. In 1907 BadenPowell wrote a draft called Boy Patrols. In the same year, to test his ideas, he gathered 21 boys of mixed social backgrounds (from boy’s schools in the London area and a section of boys from the Poole, Parkstone, Hamworthy, Bournemouth, and Winton Boys’ Brigade units) and held a week-long camp in August on Brownsea Island in Poole Harbour, Dorset, England. His organizational method, now known as the Patrol System and a key part of Scouting training, allowed the boys to organize themselves into small groups with an elected patrol leader. In the autumn of 1907, Baden-Powell went on an extensive speaking tour arranged by his publisher, Arthur Pearson, to promote his forthcoming book, Scouting for Boys. He had not simply rewritten his Aids to Scouting, but left out the military aspects and transferred the techniques (mainly survival) to non-military heroes: backwoodsmen, explorers (and later on, sailors and airmen). He also added innovative educational principles (the Scout method) by which he extended the attractive game to a personal mental education.

But Baden-Powell’s life does not end here. In January 1912, Baden-Powell was en route to New York on a Scouting World Tour, on the ocean liner Arcadian, when he met Olave St Clair Soames. Baden-Powell himself states that he used Olave’s dog as an excuse to start to talk to her. She was 23, while he was 55, they shared the same birthday, 22 February. They became engaged in September of the same year, causing a media sensation due to Baden-Powell’s fame. Amazingly, the Scouts of England each donated a penny to buy Baden-Powell a wedding gift, a car! Something very impressive by the first decade of the 1900’s.

The following year, Baden-Powell wrote a series of magazines, Scouting for Boys, setting out activities and programmes which existing youth organisations could make use of. The reaction was phenomenal, and quite unexpected. In very short time, Scout Patrols were created up and down the country, all following the principles of Baden-Powell’s Baden-Powell also did a lot of exploration book. By the time of the first census in 1910, both by his own hand and under the military there were over 100,000 members of the service in USA (mostly on Alaska), Canada,

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Pakistan, Bangladesh, Mozambique, Namibia, etc. He was constantly taking notes and making drawings about everything he was learning, especially about what he could learn from the native people on the lands he was exploring. Most of those stories can actually be found on 2 books that I advise anyone to read, weather you are a Scout or not: “Scouting for boys” and “Rovering to success”. Not just SOME IMAGES FROM “ROVERING TO SUCCESS” BY THE OWN two books about Scouting and BadenBADEN-POWELL Powells adventures, but true lessons for life. In those books (writen more than a 100 years ago) you can read about subjects that today are still contemporary: Gambling, women, addictions, hapiness, sports, alchol, etc. Baden Powell wrote a total of 34 books in his whole life. Something impressive for a time where there was no computers nor modern day printers. One of the most impressive things about these books is that he was not only a great writer but as well an amazing artist, allways making his own drawings. In 1939, Baden-Powell and Olave moved to a cottage he had commissioned in Nyeri, Kenya, near Mount Kenya, where he had previously been. Baden-Powell died on 8 January 1941 and is buried in Nyeri, in St. Peter’s Cemetery. His gravestone bears a circle with a dot in the centre “ʘ”, which is the trail sign for “Going home”, or “I have gone home”.

PHOTOS ARE SINCE 2011 P DOMAIN ACCORDING TO NATIONAL LAW

TEXT BY JOÃO FIGUEIR

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Northern La Some facts

(Eskimos) - The indigeno artic circumpolar region

A

s an history lover, I allways thought it was “funny” (in a bad way) to say the words “Eskimo” to refer to some people on the Artic region. So as you can have an idea of how wrong this is, it is the same thing as saying “Black” to refer to the peoples in Africa. Sounds “funny”, doesn’t it? This is why I decided this month to talk about the indigenous peoples that live in the Artic circumpolar region of the planet Earth, mostly know as Eskimos. Wow, this sounds fancy or what? Let’s go to the facts present on my best friend Wikipedia: There are two main groups that are referred to as Eskimo: Yupik and Inupiat. A third group, the Aleut, is related. The Yupik language dialects and cultures in Alaska and eastern Siberia have evolved in place beginning with the original (pre-Dorset) Eskimo culture that developed in Alaska. Approximately 4,000 years ago the Unangan (also known as Aleut) culture became distinctly separate, and evolved into a non-Eskimo culture. Approximately 1,500–2,000

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years ago, apparently in Northwestern Alaska, two other distinct variations appeared. The Inuit language branch became distinct and in only several hundred years spread across northern Alaska, Canada and into Greenland. At about the same time, the technology of the Thule people developed in northwestern Alaska and very quickly spread over


andscape -

ous peoples of the the the entire area occupied by Eskimo people, though it was not necessarily adopted by all of them. The earliest known Eskimo cultures (preDorset) date to 5,000 years ago. They appear to have evolved in Alaska from people using the Arctic small tool tradition. They probably had migrated to Alaska from Siberia at least 2,000 to 3,000 years earlier, though they might have been in Alaska as far back as 10,000 to 12,000 years or more. There are similar artifacts found in Siberia going back perhaps 18,000 years. Today, the two main groups of Eskimos are the Inuit of northern Alaska, Canada and Greenland, and the Yupik of Central Alaska. The Yupik comprise speakers of four distinct Yupik languages that originated in western Alaska, in South Central Alaska along the Gulf of Alaska coast, and the Russian Far East. The term Eskimo is still in common use, and particularly in Alaska to include both Yupik and Inupiat. No universal term other than Eskimo, inclusive of all Inuit and Yupik people, exists for the Inuit and Yupik peoples. In Canada and Greenland, the term Eskimo has fallen out of favour, as it is sometimes considered pejorative and has been replaced by

A Greenlandic Inuit man the term Inuit. The Canadian Constitution Act of 1982, sections 25 and 35 recognized the Inuit as a distinctive group of aboriginal peoples in Canada. In Alaska the term Eskimo is commonly used, because it includes both Yupik and Inupiat, while Inuit is not accepted as a collective term or even specifically used for Inupiat (who technically are Inuit). No universal term other than Eskimo, inclusive of

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all Inuit and Yupik people, exists for the Inuit and Yupik peoples. In 1977, the Inuit Circumpolar Conference meeting in Barrow, Alaska, officially adopted Inuit as a designation for all circumpolar native peoples, regardless of their local view on an appropriate term. As a result the Canadian government usage has replaced the (locally) defunct term Eskimo with Inuit (Inuk in singular). The preferred term in Canada’s Central Arctic is Inuinnaq, and in the eastern Canadian Arctic Inuit. The language is often called Inuktitut, though other local designations are also used. The Inuit of Greenland refer to themselves as “Greenlanders” and speak the Greenlandic language. Alaskans also use the term Alaska Native, which is inclusive of all Eskimo, Aleut and Indian people of Alaska, and is exclusive of Inuit or Yupik people originating outside the state. The term Alaska Native has important legal usage in Alaska and the rest of the United States as a result of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act of 1971. There exist some very common erroneous ideas about the Eskimo. These include:

Laminar armour from hardened leather reinforced by wood and bones worn by native Siberians and Eskimos

1) “They have thousands of words for snow.” This is a gross exaggeration. There are many words for ice, however, that describe its forms, colors, age, relative safety for crossing or traveling over, and other aspects. 2) “They live in igloos.” The word “igloo” simply means “house”. The snow house we think of was a temporary shelter during hunting seasons in the late winter and spring. It was an important survival skill making use of what materials were available and may still be used today in emergencies or for fun as part of the transfer of traditional knowledge between generations. 3) “Eskimo kissing”: In modern Western culture, an eskimo kiss is the act of pressing the tip of one’s nose against another’s. It is loosely based on a traditional Inuit greeting called a kunik. A kunik is a form of expressing affection, usually between family members and loved ones, that involves pressing the nose Late lamellar armour worn by and upper lip against the skin (commonly the native Siberians and Eskimos cheeks or forehead) and breathing in, causing the loved one’s skin or hair to be suctioned

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Inupiat woman, Alaska, circa 1907

Alutiiq dancer during the biennial “Celebration” cultural event

against the nose and upper lip.[2] A common misconception is that the practice arose so that Inuit could kiss without their mouths freezing together. In fact, it is a non-erotic form of greeting that serves as an intimate way of greeting one another for people who, when they meet, often have little except their nose and eyes exposed. When early explorers of the Arctic first witnessed this behavior they dubbed it Eskimo kissing.

TEXT AND PHOTOS FROM WIKIPEDIA

WANT TO SEND US YOUR FACTS? MAIL US TO: INFO@NORTHERNLANDSCAPE.ORG

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Back cover artist

I

t was such a tight voting this month! Furthermore, there was an amazing top 10 that I like to conider to be one of the best ever in this group... On the second place, Roddy Atkinson gathered a total of 10 votes (just one less than the first place) with his fantastic shot over the “Mighty Dettifoss”. Well done, it was deserved! In order to get to know him a bit better, let’s see what he tells us on his profile page: “Roddy Atkinson: Photographer based in Glasgow, Scotland.” - wow, that wasn’t much, was it? Fortunately himself realised that and in one of his journal entries we can unveil a bit more... “I know I haven’t given much away about myself in my profile but if anyone would like to know more, Eyal Nahmias from the Art of the Middle East group managed to extract some info in an interview brought about by winning the groups Earth, Fire, Water and Air challenge. Interview.”. Unfortunately that interview is no longer on-line... Why don’t go to his profile page and bug him to find out more?

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NORTHERN LANDSCAPE ISSUE # 05 * AUSUST 2013

www.northernlandscape.org

MIGHTY DETTIFOSS BY RODDY ATKINSON D e t t i f o s s i s a w a t e r f a l l i n Va t n a j รถ k u l l N a t i o n a l P a r k i n N o r t h e a s t I c e l a n d , a n d i s r e p u t e d to b e t h e m o s t p ow e r f u l wat e r fa l l i n Eu ro p e . N ov. 2 0 1 1 . Panoramic stitch, 4 sets of 3 landscape exposures from a Canon 5d Mark II on t r i p o d , E F1 6 -3 5 2 . 8 L I I a n d L e e f i lt e rs . P ro c e s s e d w i t h Raw , P h oto m at i x a n d Photoshop. 2s +/-2, f18, iso100, 21mm.

NORTHERN LANDSCAPE MAGAZINE - ISSUE #5 - JULY 2013


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