Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 1, Feb-April 2014

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

JOHANNESBURG

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks” The New York Times

February - April 2014

Mandela’s Joburg Follow the footprints of the father of the nation

Chinatown

Dim sum and dragons on Derrick Avenue

N°1 – R30 johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Situated 20 min from FNB Stadium & 15 min from JHB CBD

Awarded Best 4 Star Hotel in Gauteng

Jozi In Your Pocket Promotion from R 2999 per room per night* This rate includes: Breakfast at the Kraal Kombuis Restaurant between 07:30 and 11:30 | Complimentary Snack Hamper, Mini Bar with Alcoholic and Non Alcoholic Beverages | Turndown Service with Chocolates and Mineral Water | Golf Cart Service | Porter Service Entry and Photos at Thaba Lion Education Centre | De-stress Back and Neck Massages | Romantic Picnic and Eco Walk *Terms & Conditions Apply - E&OE

Luxury Accommodation | Family Restaurant | Coffee Shop | Conferences | Weddings | Events Thaba Lion Education Centre Operated by Lombardi Lions | Sinzinani Spa | Joburg’s Best

www.tyb.co.za | 011 959 0777 | reservations@tyb.co.za

CONTENTS Out of Town: Pretoria

3 61

Further afield

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

6

Essential information for your Joburg stay

Joburg Districts 10 Find your way around the neighbourhoods

Getting Around

12

Planes, trains and automobiles

History

16

What to see and what to do

Where to Stay

22

Rooms to suit all budgets

Where to Eat

26

Restaurants, cafĂŠs and coffee shops

Nightlife

33

Answer the call to the bar

What to See Museums 39 Places of interest 41 Public art 44 Galleries 45 Tours 46 Soweto 47 Chinese Joburg 49

Shopping

Joburg districts 11 Soweto 47 The City Centre 64 Street Index 66 All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

15

From mining camp to metropolis

Culture & Events

63

Get the job done

Maps & Index

Contents The Basics

Business Directory

Joburg in boxes Mandela's Joburg Safety tips Emergency numbers Local prices Joburg: Basic facts South Africanisms Minibus-taxi hand signals Ten historic facts and moments Pieter-Dirk Uys's Joburg Nightlife: A quick guide The best of Chinese Joburg Local fashion picks Gay Joburg Out and about with children Further afield

5 6 6 8 8 9 14 15 16 33 49 53 56 60 62

50

Where to spend your money

Gay Joburg 56 History, culture and a swinging nightlife Lifestyle Directory

57

A little help to look your best

Sport & Outdoors

58

Places for fitness junkies and wildlife lovers

Joburg for Kids 60 Family-friendly entertainment Big-sky city

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SA Tourism

February - April 2014

4

FOREWORD Congratulations, you’ve arrived in the city that is South Africa’s heartbeat. A little over 100 years old, Joburg – as it is known – still retains its gold rush roots, attracting people from across Africa and the world to its streets. Don’t cheat yourself with just an overnight stay – there’s too much to see and experience. A wise local summed it up neatly: ‘If cities had profiles on dating websites, Joburg would be the one with the really great personality. That’s opposed to Cape Town – the gorgeous blonde in the bikini.’ The contrasts are everywhere: shiny shopping malls and roadside craft; designer-label junkies and fast-talking car guards; old money and the flashy, minted-yesterday kind; hipsters and hustlers. One minute it’s all shiny elegance and, the next, rough grittiness. Joburg can give you the warmest smile or flip you the bird. The sunsets and summer thundershowers will take your breath away as quickly as the recklessness of the minibus taxi-drivers. From a twisty, segregated history has emerged an African cosmopolitan centre, a young city obsessed with the new, offering surprises for locals and out-of-towners alike. Johannesburg In Your Pocket is an insider’s guide to the city, and, like the place, we hope each issue will reveal many shiny gems. Fold it up, tuck it in your pocket and enjoy your stay!

Cover story Justin Lee’s cover photograph, shot in Maboneng, is of a 40m-high mural by Ricky Lee Gordon (aka Freddy Sam), completed in January as a tribute to Nelson Mandela (1918-2013). It was inspired by a photo of a young Mandela boxing on a Joburg rooftop, taken by Drum photographer Bob Gosani in 1953. The mural faces the site where Gosani’s photograph was taken.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Johannesburg In Your Pocket Founded and published by In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa tel. +27 82 572 3553 johannesburg@inyourpocket.com johannesburg.inyourpocket.com ISSN 2311-3944 © In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd Printed by Typo Colour Printing Specialists Published four times per year 8 000 copies

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

About In Your Pocket

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It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide – to Vilnius in Lithuania – in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We are expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe.

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Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing, Layout & Design Lomin Saayman Contributors Nechama Brodie, Emma Chen, Luiz De Barros, Meruschka Govender, Craig Jacobs, Tanya Kovarsky, Heather Mason, Hasmita Nair Researchers Melissa Mtwisha, Sindile Vilakazi, Hilda Gonese Photos In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited Maps Abdul Rahman Allana, Melissa Hoffman, Bradley Kirshenbaum Advertising Double G Media (Pty) Ltd, gerald.garner@inyourpocket.com, +27 82 894 5216 To order copies (minimum 50) Send an email to johannesburg@ inyourpocket.com. Also see page 66

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Any sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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NEWS

5

Mandela’s Joburg Nelson Mandela spent much of his life as a free man in Joburg, both before and after his 27 years of imprisonment on Robben Island. If you want to find out more about Tata Madiba and his life and times, visit the places in the city where he worked and lived. Look out for the temporary exhibitions on the apartheid period listed in Culture & Events, and visit What To See for the venues listed below.

Two decades of freedom

MediaClubSouthAfrica.com

Freedom revisited On April 27, a public holiday, South Africa celebrates 20 years of freedom and democracy. A number of events are planned.

If you are in the country during this time, look out for two exceptional exhibitions, The Rise and Fall of Apartheid at Museum Africa in Newtown, and Queer and Trans Art-iculations: Collaborative Art for Social Change at Wits Art Museum (WAM) featuring work by Zanele Muholi and Gabrielle le Roux (see Culture & Events). South Africa’s democratic constitution enshrines the rights of its queer and transgender citizens, and the exhibition explores their challenges in Africa and beyond.

Madame Zingara is here This February the fun travelling circus-dinner show, Madame Zingara’s Theatre of Dreams, leaves its Cape Town home for a season at Montecasino (corner William Nicol Drive and Witkoppen Road, Fourways). The show is an imaginative mix of acrobatics, fine dining, camp comedy, music and magic.

Drop by the Bijoux Boutique and dress the part, and prepare for a night in the company of contortionist princesses, Ukrainian acrobats and the sauciest drag queens in town.

Madame Zingara’s 25m-high mirrored tent will be open nightly until late May. As always, tickets to this show will be snapped up fast, so book now. For more information and tickets, go to http://theatreofdreams.madamezingara.com.

Tickets from R410.

Jazzing up Braamfontein In March the sounds of jazz will reverberate through the city with the opening of a permanent club, The Orbit, at 81 De Korte Street. With two floors dedicated to promoting jazz and other genres, including blues, funk jazz, and West African, Southern African, flamenco and gypsy music, this promises to be an exciting addition to Braamfontein’s already humming nightlife. Bistro cuisine will be on offer. The Orbit will be open from 11:30 to 02:00 (tel. +27 11 339 6645).

Apartheid Museum One of the country’s best museums provides the context of Mandela’s efforts to establish a free and democratic South Africa.

Chancellor House It is from this building in the City Centre that Nelson Mandela and Oliver Tambo ran the city‘s first black-owned legal practice, now also marked by an impressive statue of a young Mandela shadow boxing.

Liliesleaf Farm The farm was the secret headquarters of the anti-apartheid movement in the early 1960s. It is here that Mandela helped found Umkhonto we Sizwe, or MK, the armed wing of the African National Congress.

Mandela House Museum, Vilakazi Street This is the Soweto home which Mandela shared with his then wife, Winnie, before he was sentenced to a life in prison.

Nelson Mandela Amphitheatre The amphitheatre is located at the Union Buildings in Pretoria, the seat of the South African government. Madiba’s body lay in state here for three days after his death on December 5. A controversial* statue of Mandela stands in the grounds just below the amphitheatre (Government Avenue, Pretoria).

Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory A small museum and archive run by the Nelson Mandela Foundation and dedicated to his life and legacy.

Old Fort at Constitution Hill Mandela was briefly imprisoned here after he was arrested in 1962. His cell now forms the Mandela Cell exhibition. Make sure you take a walk around the fort’s ramparts for a fantastic view of the skyscrapers of the city centre and an enticing glimpse of the hustle and bustle of chaotic Hillbrow.

Peacemakers Museum The contributions of South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize laureates are explored in this museum, which is dedicated to the work and achievements of all peace laureates to date.

Tour companies Joburg Places and Past Experiences both offer distinctive, tailor-made Mandela walking tours in the city. To contact them, see Tours. * See Out of Town: Pretoria.

New Zoo Lake bus route The Gautrain now runs a weekend and public holiday bus service between the Rosebank Gautrain station and one of the city’s most popular green spaces, Zoo Lake. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:15 and the last one returns from Zoo Lake at 18:35. Buses run at 30-minute intervals. Stops on the new Zoo Lake route include the Parktown North Quarter with its busy restaurant strip, Zoo Lake, Tyrone Avenue in Parkview, Johannesburg Zoo and the Ditsong National Museum of Military History. Fares are charged at the usual Gautrain bus rate. For more on how to use the Gautrain bus system, see Getting Around.

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Darren M. Smith, Smart R Media

February - April 2014

6

BASICS BASICS Crime and safety Joburg has a poor reputation for safety – sometimes deservedly so. The police force (the SAPS) isn’t always as top-notch or as present as it needs to be, and the city’s Metro Police often seem more intent on meeting targets for issuing speeding fines than on bearing down on other dangerous driving habits, like flying through red traffic lights, not wearing safety belts, and driving on sidewalks or in emergency lanes (a quirk of minibus taxi-drivers now emulated by impatient drivers, often in four-wheel-drive vehicles). The truth about safety is a shifting reality. A lot of opportunistic crime takes place in dense city neighbourhoods and in suburban neighbourhoods, where homes are targeted. You’ll notice the ubiquitous guard huts, electric fencing and private-security patrol cars in the wealthier northern suburbs, and the razor wire in less affluent areas. Over the years people have become unselfconscious about adding security features to their homes. Our advice is to be aware rather than paranoid.

As in any other modern metropolis, you need to use your head, know where you’re going, and not flash your cash or valuables around. Consult a local to get a head’s up, but walk away if they’re the type to tell you that the city is a no-go area – you have just chosen the wrong local. When you plan your first walk around the inner-city, consider a tour with one of the many knowledgeable guides who offer them, or a City Sightseeing Red Bus hop-on, hop-off tour to get the lay of the land (see Tours and Getting Around).

nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F), and each year you’ll hear locals complain that it is the coldest winter ever. The reason Joburgers feel the cold so intensely is because homes and hospitality establishments generally are not designed with adequate insulation and winter weather in mind. Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

Climate

24-hour city The relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close well before 22:00. Sunday nights are quiet, and many restaurants, galleries and museums are closed on Mondays. The city’s nightlife is scattered so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone.

Basic supplies: Caltex Petrol Station Cnr 4th St and 17th Ave, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 3233. Pick ‘n Pay Express BP Petrol Station Melrose Arch, 116 Corlett Dr, Birnam, tel. +27 11 786 8644. Engen Petrol Station 270 Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 0935. Engen Oxford Convenience Centre 120 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 2448/9.

This branch has a Woolworths grocery store.

Pizza: Andiccio 24 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603. Closes 02:00 most weekday nights and open 24 hours at weekends.

Fast food: McDonald’s, 157 Rivonia Rd, cnr Grayston Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 0712. Drive-thru open 24 hours.

Restaurant 05:00–23:00.

Melville and Greenside are traditionally late-night haunts, but staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Car traffic increases soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

Climate Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer stretching from November to March and milder temperatures setting in from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Safety tips • If you’re staying in a hotel, lock up valuables in the room or hotel safe • When driving, always keep valuables in the boot of the car rather than on the passenger seat. Keep the windows up and the doors locked • Don’t leave valuable items visible in a parked car • Don’t stroll down a street talking on your cellphone • Pay attention to what is going on around you • Don’t show off expensive jewellery, watches or cameras • Never accept help from strangers at an ATM • Opt for using an ATM inside a bank or mall • Areas such as Alexandra, Hillbrow, Yeoville and Joubert Park should only be visited with a tour guide

Emergency numbers Police emergency Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident Fire and ambulance Dial 10177 Cellphone networks Dial 112 from any cellphone to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call Medical emergency Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services

 The telephone code is +27 11, or 011 from a landline. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BASICS BASICS Languages South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe.

Communication and Internet access The local dialling code for Johannesburg landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11. Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline.

Joburgers love their cellphones, and you’ll see kids as young as 10 with their own phones. There are four major cell phone networks and each offers pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. The network providers have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets and petrol stations.

Cell phone networks Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn.co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za), 8.ta Telkom (www.telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband (www. mybroadband.co.za), offers price comparisons on call and data packages. Check the website regularly because costs change frequently.

Rica It’s not the name of a woman but the Regulation of Interception of Communications and Provision of Communication-Related Information Act. All mobile SIM cards must be registered. The law is aimed at assisting law enforcement agencies to identify the users of cellphone numbers. To register a SIM card you will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying.

Internet access An increasing number of cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wireless.

Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibre-optic cables are being laid.

Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card and allow you to surf the Internet on your smart phone.

IT Corner 7th St and 4th Avenue, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 6090, www.theitcorner.co.za. An urban space for mobile workers with free wi-fi, technical support, a meeting room and printing facilities.

Cell phone rentals Vodacom Rentaphone International Arrivals Hall, O.R.

Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity. co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones.

Advanced bookings can be made via email.QOpen Mon–Sun 06:00–22:00.

Internet cafés Milky Way Internet Café Shop LG03, The Zone, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway. co.za. Offer public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QOpen 08:30–23:00.

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Public holidays South Africa has 12 public holidays. No matter how solemn their intention, they are regarded by most as shopping-extravaganza days. The city slows from December 16, with the shopping frenzy tapering off between Christmas Day and early January when Joburgers head for the coast or to family in other provinces. Most big malls are open on all public holidays (see Shopping).

Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday. This year marks the 20th anniversary of South Africa’s democracy, officially declared on Freedom Day, April 27, 1994, when the country’s first democratic elections were held.

January 1 March 21 April 18 April 21 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

Politics South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC), a liberation movement which became a political party after fighting against apartheid and for a non-racial democracy.

The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament. National elections are due to be held this year. The current president is Jacob Zuma.

Banking and money Currency South Africa’s unit of currency is the rand, known

informally as the “randela” because new banknotes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. The currency code is ZAR and there are 100 cents in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units.

All prices are rounded off to the nearest 5c.

Banking South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks and bureaux de change. Retail bank outlets can be found in all major shopping centres, and ATMs are available in malls, some supermarkets and at petrol stations.

Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments and can be used to withdraw cash at ATMs. The four major retail banks are Absa (www. absa.co.za), First National Bank (FNB) (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www. standardbank.co.za).

Value-added tax (Vat) An indirect tax of 14% levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders visiting South Africa can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

February - April 2014

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BASICS Media

Tipping

South Africa has a free press although controversial government attempts to pass a Protection of Information Bill could result in restrictions. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. The country ranked 52nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2013 press freedom index.

Daily newspapers Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), a business newspaper. The Star (www.iol.co.za/the-star), a broadsheet with an events listing section. The Times (www. timeslive.co.za), an upmarket tabloid.

Weekly newspapers City Press (www.citypress.co.za), and Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za/sundaytimes, online for subscribers only) are broadsheets. Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co.za) is a leader in investigative reporting.

Radio There are more than 30 local stations. Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio; for music, try 5FM (98.0), Kaya FM, (95.9) and Highveld Stereo (94.7).

Television SABC (www.sabc.co.za), is the public broadcaster. e.TV and eNCA (www.etv.co.za and www. enca.com) are free-to-air channels. M-Net is a subscription channel and DStv (http://mnet.dstv.com) a satellite television provider.

If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as restaurant servers and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, city council workers, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the minimum, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

Local prices Cappuccino R20 Cigarettes (pack of 20) R35 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Gautrain: O.R. Tambo to Sandton R125 Litre of petrol R13 Local beer (in a bar) R20 Mineral water (500ml) R8 Therapeutic massage (1 hour) R400

Joburg: Basic facts Johannesburg’s aliases Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold Location In the province of Gauteng, one of nine South African provinces Economic clout The financial heart of South Africa and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Gauteng contributes 34.7% of the country’s gross domestic product Stock exchange The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest stock exchange on the continent and one of the 20 biggest bourses in the world Financial heart Home to the headquarters of more than 70% of South African companies Population More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent of them are younger than 24 Diversity The 2011 census recorded that 76.4% of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3% are white people, 5.6% are coloured people, and 4.9% are Indian/ Asian. Of those 19.2% have some form of higher education, and 2.9% of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling Inland port Has one of the larger inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal Green city Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees Elevation More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Alcohol South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. It has countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry (see Where to Eat and Shopping).

Electricity Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa by the state-owned company Eskom, and is subject to occasional shortages. Valuable electronics should be used in combination with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally.

Medical and dental emergencies Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock.

Netcare Milpark Hospital 9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. A level 1 trauma centre caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.QOpen 24/7.

Netcare Sunninghill Hospital Cnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Has a 24hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QOpen 24/7.

Emergency Doctor and Dentist 7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. This practice offers emergency medical and dental care. Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366. It also offers home, hotel and business visits.

QOpen 24/7.

The Smile Factory Salveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786QOpen 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

Pharmacies Mays Chemist 11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.QOpen Mon– Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

Morningside Dispensary The Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588, scripts@morningsidedispensary.co.za. An after-hours pharmacy.QOpen Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 09:00–21:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BASICS Navigating the city Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues. Street names, especially those of major thoroughfares, change quickly and the erection of new street signs often does not keep pace with the renaming.

Places of worship Christians are in the majority in South Africa, but there is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity.

Anglican St Francis of Assisi Parish 48 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, +27 11 646 2660, www.stfrancisparkview. co.za. For a full list of Anglican churches, see www. anglicanjoburg.org.za.

Beit Emanuel 38 Oxford Rd, Parktown, +27 11 646 6170, www.beitemanuel.co.za. The largest progressive synagogue in Joburg, founded in 1954.

Chabad of Sandton Chabad Place, off Hampton Court Rd, Gallo Manor, +27 11 803 1507, www.chabadsouthafrica. org. Chabad synagogues host shabbat dinners.

Great Park Synagogue Cnr Glenhove Rd and 4th Street, Houghton, +27 11 728 8152, www.greatpark.co.za.

The synagogue’s architecture pays tribute to the now deconsecrated Great Synagogue in the inner-city area of Hillbrow, which was the traditional seat of the Chief Rabbi. It hosts a rich after-hours cultural programme.

Houghton Muslim Jamaat 45 West St, Houghton, +27 11 483 0761, http://hmjamaat.com.

Lam Rim Tibetan Buddhism Centre Cnr 1st Ave and Kite St, Cottesloe +27 82 467 5735, www.lamrim.co.za.

The Geshe is a learned Tibetan Buddhist from a rapidly disappearing era in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition.

Masjid-ur-Rahmah Cnr Ingalele Rd and Barry Hertzog Rd, Greenside, +27 79 211 1111, www.masjidurrahmah. org.za. See www.muslim.co.za for a directory of masjids, halaal restaurants and organisations.

Melrose Temple 2nd St, Abbotsford, +27 11 728 6590, www.melrosetemple.org.za. The Melrose Shree Siva Subramaniar Temple has been extensively renovated and is now a beacon of Murugan worship with a congregation of more than 20 000 devotees.

Nizamiye Turkish Masjid Le Roux Ave, Midrand, +27 79 029 0488, www.nizamiye.co.za. The first Ottoman-style mosque in the southern hemisphere, this is a smaller replica of the historic Selimiye Camii mosque in Edirne, Turkey, now a World Heritage Site. The impressive complex includes a school for 850 learners, clinic, shops and a restaurant, Ottoman Palace (see Where To Eat).

Rhema Bible Church Cnr Rabie St and Hans Schoeman St, Randpark Ridge, Randburg, +27 11 796 4000, www. rhema.co.za. Rhema Bible Church has a number of branches.

Rosebank Catholic Church 16 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, +27 11 788 5526, www.rosebankcatholicchurch.co.za.

For a list of churches, see www.catholic-johannesburg.org.za.

Smoking South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes. The threat of hefty fines has ensured that most establishments abide by the smoking laws – probably one of the few rules that most South Africans follow. Smoking is banned on all domestic flights and in all airport terminals.

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South Africanisms While English is the lingua franca, cultural diversity has created a South African language of its own. Key words include: Aweh Awesome Biltong Like beef jerky, just much better; also made from venison Boerewors Sausage made with minced meat and spices Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994 Braai Both the act of coal-grilling meat, and the event at which it is eaten Bro ​or Boet Brother, meaning friend Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European and African origin Dagga or Zol Marijuana Eita Hello Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder Howzit How are you?

Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans) Jol To go out on the town; to party Just now Any time in the near future, from two minutes to many hours Lekker Tasty or cool Lapa An outdoor area, usually covered Mzansi A Zulu word meaning ‘south’, used to refer to South Africa Pap A stiff porridge made with maize-meal and best served with a tomato-and-onion gravy or a meat stew.

It is a South African staple “Plastic?” When someone asks you this question they want to know if you want to buy a plastic bag in which to carry your shopping Robot Traffic light Sawubona A greeting in Zulu Sharp! Great!

Sho’t left A stop close by, derived from taxi-commuter lingo Skorokoro A scrap car, or something worn beyond its years Skyf A cigarette Spaza shop An informal convenience store Tekkies Athletic shoes Tsotsi Someone up to no good Yebo Yes (in Zulu)

Time zone South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. You might find that some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’ as Zimbabwe’s capital falls in the same time zone. There is no daylight saving time.

Travelling for the disabled By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly. For more information on travelling for people with disabilities, visit www.southafrica.info/travel/ advice/disabled.htm.

Water The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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JOBURG DISTRICTS Chinatowns The city’s original Chinatown along Commissioner Street still hosts a slap-up Chinese New Year celebration and has some great restaurants as well as the Sui Hing Hong Supermarket, a must-see store that sells everything from sex toys to firecrackers, and sesame oil to frozen dim sum.

Its brasher rival is in Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, east of the city centre. With a massive new gateway announcing the district, Cyrildene’s Chinatown feels a lot more like visiting an exotic international travel destination. See Chinese Joburg.

City Centre City of Gold

Chris Kirchhoff, MediaClubSouthAfrica.com

Joburg is a city where extreme wealth and dire poverty live side by side in many neighbourhoods. But the city of today is also more integrated than it has ever been. There are visible signs of an emerging black middle class and a shift away from black disempowerment. Still, if this process of a city returning to normal after years of oppression and division is compared to a race, Joburg is in the starting blocks rather than at the finishing line. Twenty years after embracing democracy, the city is still trying to define what its future might look like. But there are many bright spots on the map already. New neighbourhoods are springing up in formerly deserted districts, and there is always something new and shiny to look at, a new must-visit restaurant, venue, gallery or shop. The districts highlighted here all have a distinctive feel and something unique to offer the visitor. For attractions, go to What to See.

Alexandra Apartheid’s legacy bequeathed the township of Alexandra to its wealthy sister, Sandton, and contrasting the two makes for some bizarre comparisons. Alex, as it is known, may be a historical anomaly but it’s also home to thousands of people and expresses the city’s diversity and income gap in a few square kilometres. Here you’ll find informal shacks that precipitously cling to the Jukskei River and house entire families in a single room adjacent to the modest suburban housing developments of East Bank. Culturally in the shadow of Soweto, Alex is starting to wake up to its potential as a tourist destination. To visit the area it is best to arrange a tour. Jeff Mulaudzi’s Alexandra bicycle tours (www.alexandratours.co.za, +27 71 279 3654) are highly recommended.

Braamfontein Bordering the city centre and joined to Newtown by the Nelson Mandela Bridge – Joburg’s landmark equivalent of Cape Town’s Table Mountain – Braamfontein is fast becoming the hipster capital. An area that caters to students and is the site of the world-renowned University of the Witwatersrand, or Wits, ‘Braamies’ is home to museums, theatres, restaurants and coffee shops, the Neighbourgoods Saturday Market, galleries and quirky design stores.

Bryanston and Fourways The northern stretches of the city host security suburbs, outdoor-lifestyle centres, plant nurseries and equestrian and golfing estates. Here suburban life is punctuated by malls that replicate each other and by Montecasino, a major casino and theatre complex that is a popular nightlife destination and the home of Joburg’s movie premieres and only comedy club, Parker’s Comedy and Jive.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The City Centre – locals call it the ‘inner city’, ‘town’ or ‘CBD’ – is the victim of a poor reputation but still holds many Joburg secrets. While its residential life has grown immensely over the past few years, most of its offerings are best enjoyed in daylight. These include the Fashion Kapitol; the pedestrianised Main Street, soaked in mining history; Gandhi Square; the 50-storey Carlton Centre with its panoramic view of the city; the Ethiopian district; traditional medicine markets; the Rand Club; and Diagonal Street shopping. The area also has a rich collection of public artworks.

Fordsburg Fordsburg is the heart of Joburg’s Indian and Pakistani communities, with vibrant city streets, a night market, spice shops, traditional sweetmeat stores and a buzzing street life. Its shopping hub is the Oriental Plaza with 360 stores, including plenty of halaal restaurants and takeout places.

It’s an area that is busy day and night.

Hyde Park Hyde Park is one of the most expensive suburbs. Its centre is Hyde Park Corner, the city’s swankiest shopping centre filled with international designer stores, ladies who lunch, and the rest of the cappuccino-sipping, Porsche Cayenne four-wheel-drive-owning, groomed and manicured Joburg set. Practise not gasping at R15 000 price tags for a dress and you’ll fit in just fine.

Maboneng The work of a single property development company, this inner-city district (officially called City and Suburban) has been converted from industrial properties to a happening lifestyle playground. Street art is a big feature here, along with an eclectic selection of shops. The pioneer development is called Arts on Main, and this is where one of South Africa’s most famous artists, William Kentridge, has his studio.

It’s also home to Market on Main, the inner city’s major Sunday market, MOAD (the Museum of African Design), a cinema, theatre, trendy apartments, restaurants, coffee shops, a culinary institute, the 12 Decades Hotel, Curiocity Backpackers and even a spa.

Melville and Auckland Park The areas adjacent to Braamfontein are the city’s student capital. Auckland Park is home to the University of Johannesburg campus and also hosts a great lifestyle hub filled with local designer stores and restaurants at 44 Stanley Avenue in the small adjoining suburb of Milpark. Bohemian Melville is a celebrated nightspot and is forever trying to shake off its reputation for trays of shooters and slightly grungy people and venues. If you’re looking for a good time, Melville may just be the place you have in mind.

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JOBURG DISTRICTS GETTING AROUND

Newtown

Soweto

Joburg’s original cultural precinct is a vast heritage site incorporating the historic Market Theatre, Museum Africa, the impressively renovated Turbine Hall and the immense Mary Fitzgerald square that hosts thousands of people for major cultural events. It is a bit down at heel but a new shopping and lifestyle development, Newtown Junction, is on the way, and its construction has created space for an incredible collection of graffiti, which is worth seeing (see Tours).

South Africa’s most famous township, once home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, is steeped in history. But it’s not only history that makes this vast neighbourhood tick. With many renovation projects now completed and an upgraded transport network linking it to the city centre, Soweto is constructing a contemporary identity with the help of a new generation who wants to offer the world everything – from anti-apartheid landmarks like Vilakazi Street and the Hector Pieterson Museum to bungee-jumping and bird-watching – in this very famous part of the city (see Soweto).

Rosebank, Illovo and Melrose Rosebank is a business and shopping district along Oxford Road and houses a series of malls that are integrated into a vast retail space, criss-crossed by pedestrianised streets and walkways. With hundreds of shops to choose from, as well as restaurants, cinemas and an African craft market, it is a popular destination for visitors and locals alike. Its neighbour, Illovo, is a restaurant district, while nearby Melrose Arch, off Corlett Drive, is a favourite for fans of a sanitised street life and designer-label shopping.

Sandton What was once vast tracts of farmland is now Joburg’s richest business belt housing the headquarters of many of the country’s top companies, the Sandton Convention Centre as well as the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Sandton is not friendly to pedestrians or wallets but is easily accessed by the Gautrain as well as public and private transport. It is without doubt the shopping capital of the African continent, with Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square its crown jewels. It also houses many big-name international hotels.

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The Parks and Greenside O ften referred to as the ‘leafy suburbs’, the Parks include the wealthy suburbs of Parkview, Parkwood, Parktown North and Parkhurst.

Throw in the Joburg Zoo, Zoo Lake and the nearby Emmarentia Dam and you have some of the city’s major public attractions amid pretty, tree-lined suburban Late afternoon at Zoo Lake streets. Parkview has the ambience of a small-town village, while in Parkhurst you are likely to spot a Ferrari or two parked outside the many restaurants. Life in Parktown North is dominated by eateries and a grocery story, while Parkwood has many of the city’s best art galleries collected in two or three blocks along Jan Smuts Avenue. Greenside is a popular nightlife strip.

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GETTING AROUND Joburg is a big, sprawling city. Urban life tends to spread across various suburbs, each with its own distinct identity and style (see Joburg Districts). Depending on the length of your stay, you will find that renting a car makes life much easier – outside the city centre there are entire neighbourhoods that can be difficult to reach with public transport.

Airports and flying Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, and the smaller Lanseria Airport. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

Lanseria Airport, tel. +27 11 367 0300, www. lanseria.co.za. Located approximately 30km north-west of Sandton, it serves mainly short-haul destinations and is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, as well as local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.

Getting to/from the airport: Lanseria Taxis, tel. +27 11 326 3260, www.lanseriataxis.com. Lanseria is served by taxis and private shuttles. Only Lanseria Taxis leave from the airport.

O.R. Tambo International Airport, tel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), 086 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za. O.R. Tambo is located 30km east of Sandton. The airport is spacious, modern and easy to get around. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B – which merge after you have passed through the security checkpoints. South African Airways flights depart from Terminal B. The airport has a reputation for baggage handlers rifling through luggage, so make sure your bags are safely locked or wrapped. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo airport: Gautrain Catch the Gautrain rapid rail from O.R. Tambo to Sandton for R125. The journey takes 12 minutes. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Johannesburg, change at Sandton. Trains run from 05:30 until 20:30 at intervals of 15–30 minutes. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis, tel. 0861 243 243, www.ortiata.co.za. There are many taxi touts at the airport but Ortiata is the official taxi company. Fares start at R16/km (Sandton is approximately 35km away). Follow the signs in the airport to the booking office.

Airport shuttles and parking EZ Shuttle, tel. 0861 397 488 or +27 12 348 8040,

www.ezshuttle.co.za. This service offers airport transfers, coach shuttles, point-to-point transport or Gautrain shuttles.

The starting price for airport transfers is R405 and the cost depends on your final destination.QOpen 24/7 Mr Parking, tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking. co.za. This valet service beats high prices for airport parking. Bookings must be made online in advance, but last-minute bookings can be made by cellphone. A driver meets you at the airport, parks your car a few kilometres away, and returns it to the domestic terminal all cleaned up upon your arrival.QOffice hours are 08:00–16:00 but the service operates 24/7.

Rhino Shuttles , tel. +27 11 793 2282, w w w. rhinoshuttles.co.za. This service charges R400 for one person and R50 per additional passenger for transfers from either airport to Johannesburg. Shuttle transport or chauffeur transport to out-of-town destinations such as Sun City, Pilanesberg Game Reserve and the Kruger Park are also available. Book in advance.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Airlines Johannesburg is served by the national carrier, South African Airways, and a number of budget domestic airlines. There are also a number of smaller airlines that fly to African destinations.

Travelstart, tel. 0861 878 278 or +27 21 468 4300, www.travelstart.co.za. An online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for South Africa’s major airlines and low-cost carriers.QSpeak to a consultant 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. British Airways, tel. +27 11 441 8600, www.britishairways.com. British Airways (operated by Comair) flies between Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth.

Kulula Air, tel. 0861 585 852, +27 11 921 0570, www. kulula.com. A no-frills airline operating from both O.R. Tambo International and Lanseria airports to Cape Town, Durban, George, East London and Port Elizabeth. Kulula also flies to Mauritius, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Namibia, and offers car-hire and holiday packages.

Mango, tel. 0861 001 234, +27 11 086 6100, www. flymango.com. An SAA-owned budget airline, Mango flies from both Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International airports to Cape Town, Durban, George and Port Elizabeth. The airline also flies from Johannesburg to Zanzibar. Flights can also be booked at supermarket chain Shoprite Checkers (see www. shoprite.co.za).QW SAA, tel. 0861 358 722 or +27 11 978 1000, www. flysaa.com. South Africa’s national carrier covers domestic and international routes.QOpen 06:00–22:00.

Driving in Joburg To get around Joburg easily you need a car – it’s as simple as that. Shop around and book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and keep our security tips in mind (see Safety Tips). South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass other traffic on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways.

Petrol is widely available. Attendants fill up the car and clean windows, check oil and water levels and pump tyres. Tip between R5 and R10. South Africans like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides.

Minibus taxis use their emergency lights to indicate that they are about to do something radical. Keep a healthy distance and avoid driving behind them in the left-hand lane. At traffic circles (roundabouts), the rule is that vehicles approaching from your right have right of way. Many Joburg drivers seem not to understand this, and treat a traffic circle as a four-way stop.Traffic lights often don’t work; when you come across one of these, treat it as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is rampant, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to cross a freeway.

Car rental Africarhire, tel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire. com. Africarhire makes reservations for rental companies Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire. Cars can be collected from O.R. Tambo International and Lanseria airports and from Sandton City, Sandton.Q Open 08:30–17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Rent-A-Wreck 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, Johannesburg, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www. rentawreck.co.za. Rent-A-Wreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as drivers are not obsessed with the appearance of their cars. Rentals start at R79/day. You’ll need your passport, credit card and driver’s licence.QOpen 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

GETTINGAROUND AROUND GETTING Buses Rea Vaya The new Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System

The Gautrain

MediaClubSouthAfrica.com

Maps AA Travel Experience Shop G02 Benmore Gardens,

cnr Grayston Dr and Benmore Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 4104. This AA-accredited store provides information and useful services to assist you with travel plans, including touring maps, travel insurance, accessories and cross-border documentation.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

Printed maps A good selection is available at Exclusive Books in Hyde Park and Nelson Mandela Square (see Shopping).

Shuttle services and inter-city buses Most destinations in South Africa, and indeed much of the African continent, can be reached by bus directly from Johannesburg.

Baz Bus, tel. 0861 229 287 or +27 21 422 5202, www. bazbus.com. A hop-on, hop-off bus service mostly for backpackers that travels between Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town and Port Elizabeth with stops along the way. There are day-pass options and wildlife safari and adventure packages that include Chobe National Park in northern Botswana and the mighty Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe–Zambia border.

QW Citybug, tel. 0861 334 433, www.citybug.co.za. A daily shuttle service between provinces, including Mpumalanga, Gauteng, Free State and KwaZulu-Natal.

City to City, tel. 0861 589 282, www.citytocity.co.za.

Travels to cities in all nine provinces. Tickets can be bought from Computicket (www.online.computicket.com) or supermarket chain Shoprite Checkers (see www.shoprite.co.za to locate a nearby store).

Greyhound, tel. +27 11 611 8000 or +27 83 915 9000, www.greyhound.co.za. Luxury coach travel between major cities and many smaller towns in all provinces. Telephone bookings can be made at any time. For some strange reason, calls to the cell phone number are charged at R2.85 per minute.QOpen 24/7.

Translux, tel. 0861 589 282 or +27 11 773 8056, www. translux.co.za. A modern, luxury bus service travelling to all South Africa provinces with multiple destinations in many of them. Tickets can be purchased at supermarket chains Pick n Pay (www.picknpay.co.za) and Shoprite Checkers (www.shoprite.co.za), as well as from ticketing agent Computicket (http://online.computicket.com).

Public transport Much of the city’s new public-transport infrastructure, such as the Gautrain rapid-rail and Rea Vaya bus service, is safe, efficient and relatively easy to navigate.

More adventurous visitors will find they can get almost anywhere if they are willing to brave the infamous minibus taxi network.

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(BRT), www.reavaya.org.za, boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and specially enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently most of its routes run from the city centre to destinations in Soweto, but the network has ambitious expansion plans. You can only use the Rea Vaya with a valid Smartcard, which can be bought and loaded at the bus stop outside Park Station, or at the Carlton Centre.

You will need to create a PIN for your card when you first activate it. Fares are calculated by distance and start at around R5. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and run from around 06:00–18:30, less frequently at weekends.

Useful routes For tourists, the circular city centre C-3 route is ideal as it passes all the main tourist sights as well as Park Station Gautrain. The C5 and T3, which stop at Milpark (close to 44 Stanley Avenue and a 15-minute walk from the centre of Melville), leave from Park Station.

Gautrain feeder buses Connected to every Gautrain station is a network of ‘feeder’ buses that only accept the Gautrain Gold Card for payment (available from the station kiosk; you must have a minimum of R20 credit on your card).

If you use the Gautrain within an hour of using the bus, the fare is R6, otherwise it costs R20. Buses arrive approximately every 25 minutes (or every 40 minutes between 09:00 and 15:00), and there are route maps and timetables at all Gautrain stations and bus stops. The buses run between 05:30 and 20:30 on weekdays only. You can call 010 223 1098 to find out when the next bus is due.

Metrobus The creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system, Metrobus ferries commuters from the suburbs to the city centre and back, with most bus routes terminating at Gandhi Square in the city centre. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning rush hour (06:00–09:30). Few buses run during the day and you will be lucky to find a Metrobus anywhere after 18:00 or at the weekend. The bus stops (marked by a blue sign with an M and a picture of a bus) do not have timetables. To get route information, visit the information office inside the Gandhi Mall on Gandhi Square. Fares vary between R10 and R20 depending on your destination, and are paid to the driver on entering. Ring the bell when you approach your bus stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked. The most useful routes include the double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City that takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow.

Minibus taxis Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace to other

road users but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly when requested to pick up or drop off people, are often poorly maintained and love to break traffic rules. Turf battles between taxi firms have at times erupted in violence, which contributes to the industry’s bad reputation. Minibus taxis do not have routes displayed and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal for your desired destination – and there are dozens of these (see ‘Minibus taxi hand signals’ box on the next page). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and MTN Metro Mall in Newtown.

Be vigilant at the taxi ranks as they tend to be crowded, and avoid taking minibus taxis at night or alone. Hand the fare to the driver – R5 to R10 for short journeys. Drivers prefer coins or small notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark, such as ‘after the robots’, is usually the easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers it offers a great insight into everyday South African life.

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GETTING AROUND Gautrain

City Sightseeing Bus

Gautrain 0800 428 87246, w w w.gautrain.co.za

City Sightseeing Joburg & Soweto, 0861 733 287 or +27 21 511 6000, www.citysightseeing.co.za. Joburg has joined the ranks of almost 100 cities worldwide that boast a red open-top City Sightseeing bus. The hop-on, hop-off bus stops at all the major tourist sights such as Constitution Hill, Carlton Centre and the Apartheid Museum. From Gold Reef City it also links up with a smaller sightseeing minibus which follows a route around Soweto. Stops include Kliptown, Vilakazi St, Bara Taxi Rank and the Hector Pieterson Memorial.

Parking and the main tour office are at Gold Reef City to the south of the city centre. Buses can be boarded at the Park Station Gautrain bus stop. Tickets are available on the bus with a credit/debit card, or can be booked online in advance.

Discounted rates for online bookings apply (see Tours).

Joburg’s pride and joy, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train‘) was built just in time for the 2010 Soccer World Cup and links central Johannesburg (Park Station) with the main business districts of the north (Sandton and Rosebank) and beyond to Pretoria, O.R. Tambo International and various suburbs in between. The trains and their flashy stations are bright, clean, safe and incredibly well-policed. No chewing gum or earing food on the train is permitted. The system uses the Gautrain Gold Card which can be purchased at the counters in each station for R10 and topped-up at the kiosk or vending machine. Every station has a dedicated car park with special rates for Gautrain users, payable by Gold Card (you must make a return train journey to get the special rate).

Trains run daily from 05:30–20:00 at intervals of 15–30 minutes. Timetables are available online or by downloading the Gautrain app (available for Apple and Android). The fare from Sandton to O.R. Tambo is R125; to Park Station it is R23.

Tuk-tuks The latest addition to Joburg’s transport network is the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks based at Sandton Central and in Melville. While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone, they do make travelling between suburbs easier.

Also, with fares starting at R25 you can’t argue with the price. e-TukTuk +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R30. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.

Shesha Tuks 0861 743 742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.

Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street and operates within a 5km radius. It can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.

Minibus-taxi hand signals Every day thousands of hands stretch out along commuter routes across Gauteng, communicating silently with the drivers of minibus taxis. A raised index finger indicates you are headed to the city centre; turn your hand palm upwards and curl your fingers around an invisible fruit, and your destination changes to the informal settlement of Orange Farm. This ingenious system was developed during the apartheid era by mostly black commuters, who had to travel long distances to and from work without easy access to transport.

Joburg artist Susan Woolf has documented what is arguably South Africa’s 12th official language in her books and exhibition, Taxi Hand Signs: Symbolic Landscapes of Public Culture. The easiest way to test this is to ride a minibus taxi to the city centre, and the best way to understand the system without the handbook is to ask other commuters.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Taxis Taxis in Johannesburg are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out. Except for outside hotels, there are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price at the start of your trip. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150.

Maxi Taxi +27 11 648 1212 or +27 11 648 1258 (free call), www.maxitaxicabs.co.za Orange Taxis 0861 700 222 or +27 76 205 8031, www.orangecab.co.za.

Quick Cab +27 76 043 3617 or +27 73 447 2595.

Rose Taxis +27 11 403 0000 (metered), www.rosetaxis.com.

Snappcab www.snappcab.com. The Snappcab app puts you in touch with the nearest available taxi. Download the app, register to call and pay for the taxi, check your route and receive reliable arrival times.

Walking Much of Johannesburg, especially the northern suburbs, is designed for cars rather than pedestrians. However, during the day the vibrant city centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated and best enjoyed on foot, while some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also nice to explore on foot. If you choose to walk, do so in daylight hours and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, and crossing the bridges over the rail tracks from the city centre to Braamfontein after dark is also highly discouraged. Overall the biggest dangers to pedestrians in this city are cars, especially at traffic lights.

Many Joburgers become completely oblivious of the rest of humanity as soon as they get behind the wheel, so keep your wits about you. Also, watch out for uncovered manholes on pavements and when you cross a street.

Cycling Cycling is a favourite pastime here, but despite repeated calls for increased cycle lanes and attention to safety the city is not always safe for cyclists. The Johannesburg Urban Cyclists Association (JUCA) promotes and defends the use of bicycles as a day-to-day transport solution and is campaigning to make Joburg bike-friendly by 2015. JUCA publishes a Joburg bicycle map available at www.juca.org. za. See Sport and Outdoors.

Telephone numbers starting with 0861 can only be dialled locally johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

HISTORY 1886 Australian prospector George Harrison discovers gold on what was then called the Witwatersrand. The tent camp becomes a magnet for fortune hunters and the largest settlement in South Africa.

1887 The city’s first newspaper, The Star, and the Johannesburg Stock Exchange are founded.

1893 The Johannesburg Public Library opens in a corrugated iron structure. It aims to offer young men recreational activities other than drinking and visiting brothels.

1890s A number of large mining companies control the area’s gold mines, creating enormous wealth for the company owners, the so-called ‘Randlords’, whose legacy still remains in the architectural styles of their mansions on Parktown Ridge.

1 899 –1901 Strained relations between the mine barons, English-speaking new arrivals and the Transvaal republic’s Boer government lead to the Anglo-Boer War, and subsequent British control of the area. The colonial government formalises racial segregation, which is later entrenched by the iniquitous system of apartheid.

1920 Protests and strikes erupt over the appalling conditions in which the city’s black workers live.

1922 White miners agitate for change, culminating in the Rand Revolt. Two hundred miners die.

1928 Johannesburg is declared a city.

1948 White privilege is entrenched with the ascension of the National Party, which implements the policy of apartheid. It relocates thousands of black people to remote ‘homelands’ and introduces pass laws to severely restrict their movement. Black opposition parties are banned.

1955 The South African Congress Alliance gathers in Kliptown, Soweto, to adopt the Freedom Charter. The stage is set for increasing resistance to apartheid policies.

1963 Soweto is formally named as a settlement for black South Africans.

1970s The city of Johannesburg booms. High-rises such as the Carlton Centre, Hillbrow Tower and Ponte City are constructed. Sandton City is built on former farmland.

1976 The Soweto uprising against t h e a p a r t h e i d go ve r n m e n t ’s education policies is a milestone event. When police open fire on unarmed children, they set the process in motion that ultimately ends apartheid. The image of the young Hector Pieterson’s body shocks the world.

1980s The decade is the most turbulent in the country’s recent h i s to r y, wi t h vi ol e n c e i n t h e townships, street battles against the police, international sanctions and heightened state security.

1990 State President F.W. de Klerk takes the momentous decision to unban political organisations and release political prisoners, among them Nelson Mandela.

1994 The country’s first democratic election is held and Mandela is elected president of a free country.

1995 The almost exclusively white Springbok rugby team wins the World Cup against New Zealand. Wearing the captain’s jersey, President Mandela joins the team on the field at Ellis Park stadium, an act of enormous significance in his efforts at reconciling black and white citizens.

2004 The Constitutional Court building is inaugurated.

2010 The 2010 Fifa World Cup opening ceremony, final game and closing ceremony are held at Soccer City, now FNB Stadium, in Soweto.

2013 On December 5, the world bids farewell to its greatest statesman, former President Nelson Mandela.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

15

10 historic facts and moments The modern city of Johannesburg you see today has a rich and colourful history. The turning point was the discovery of a seam of gold in what is now George Harrison Park in Langlaagte. President Paul Kruger declared the area open for public digging on September 20, 1886. Today people still flock here in search of a different kind of gold. Nechama Brodie, journalist and author of The Joburg Book,* identifies 10 key moments in the city’s history.

1. Joburg sits on the edge of the world’s largest known gold deposit in the reefs of the Witwatersrand basin.

2. Two billion years ago, a giant meteor struck the earth at Vredefort, about 120km south-west of Joburg. The impact buried the Witwatersrand gold deposits up to several kilometres deep, protecting the gold from erosion.

3. Nobody really knows where the name ‘Johannesburg’ originated. ‘Johannes’ is a popular Dutch and Afrikaans name: the president, the town surveyor, the mining head and the military commander present at the time the town was established all carried the name.

4. Joburg’s gold ore is typically low-grade, which meant – almost from the start – the mineral claims had to be worked by large syndicates, relying on cheap black migrant labour, rather than individual prospectors.

5. The white-yellow mine dumps surrounding the city are the remnants of the waste gangue after it has been crushed and then separated from the gold. Crown Mines alone removed 160 million tonnes of rock. By comparison, the excavation of the entire Suez Canal only entailed the removal of 130 million tonnes of soft material!

6. Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela both spent formative years working as attorneys here. Their exposure to its segregationist (British and, following that, apartheid) policies greatly influenced their later campaigns of resistance.

7. Early town planners had always intended for the city to be a ‘whites only’ settlement. Forced removals and apartheid land policies pushed the majority of the city’s black population into designated townships, some more than 20km from the city. The largest of these settlements was later given the collective name ‘Soweto’ (South-Western Townships).

8. In June 1955 in Kliptown, one of Soweto’s oldest suburbs, a group of 3 000 anti-apartheid activists met to sign a document known as the Freedom Charter. It stated: ‘South Africa belongs to all who live in it, black and white.’

9. A little over 20 years later, in June 1976, Soweto issued another challenge to the oppressive policies of apartheid when the youth of the township rose up in a peaceful protest. The protests quickly turned violent, with police shooting and killing unarmed schoolchildren. The shots were heard countrywide.

10. South Africa’s highest court, the Constitutional Court, was founded after the country’s first democratic elections in 1994. The court building sits on the edge of a small complex atop one of Joburg’s few hills. The precinct, known as Constitution Hill, was once the site of a prison complex that at different times held Gandhi, Mandela and Mandela’s former wife, Winnie Madikizela. * The second edition is due out later this year.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

16

CULTURE & EVENTS Pieter-Dirk Uys’s Joburg

Opera, Classical music & Concerts

With shows opening in February and March, we asked much-loved South African performer, activist, author and satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys to tell us what makes Joburg such a special place.

‘I grew up in the Mother City [Cape Town] where Adderley Street was Fifth Avenue in New York and St George’s Street Piccadilly in London! The first time I stood in Commissioner Street in Joburg and looked up and saw Europe and looked down and recognised Robben Island, I realised that my little Cape Town was just a block of four department stores up and six department stores across.

One side was a huge mountain; the other side the deepblue sea. And there were always just three ways out of Cape Town by road: the N1, the N2 and Voortrekker Road.

‘There are countless entrances and exits to and from Joburg. My first experience of neon lights! A drive-in cinema on a gold mine! A zoo with elephants! Trams!

Trams? How old am I? My ID says 68; my heart purrs 12! Coming up to the old Transvaal [historical name of Gauteng] with my family in our small Austin A40 was then the treat of a lifetime. Even today, flying into the smog of the Big Golden Delicious, is a feeling of coming home, but also relief to be leaving for Slaapstad [Sleepy City, a reference to Cape Town’s laid-back pace], exhausted after a few days of wild energy.

‘That’s Joburg: energy! Joburg always answers calls.

Joburg is never late. Joburg will be enthusiastic and encouraging and then maybe do nothing. Joburg says everything works, but not perfectly. Which sometimes means nothing works. But the people do. And they laugh. And they race their cars. And they smile when you let them go first. So don’t be a tourist in Joburg. Adapt! and you won’t die.’

Q See Pieter-Dirk Uys in two shows: 25.02–16.03 An Audience with Pieter-Dirk Eish!

28–29.03 Fifty Shades of Bambi

Date 12.02–13.02 19.02–20.02 26.02–27.02

28.02 1.03 1.03 02.03–09.03 05.03–06.03 16.03 22.03 2.04

* Performances on 02.03, 04.03, 09.03 at 15:00 and 07.03 at 20:00.

Comedy Date 27.02–09.03 25.02–16.03 28.02

1.03

Tickets Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web is the biggest ticket-booking website and lists events online. It accepts all major credit cards, and bookings can be made by phone or in-store. Other online ticket retailers include Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www. webtickets.co.za, which delivers barcoded tickets via email, and www.quicket.co.za. For selected student events, visit plankton.mobi. Most theatre venues have box offices onsite that are open during the day and for pre-show collection of tickets.

Event & Venue 20:00 Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra – Borodin, Shostakovich, Tchaikovsky. Linder Auditorium 20:00 Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra – Beethoven, Mozart, Mendelssohn. Linder Auditorium 20:00 Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra – Beethoven. Linder Auditorium 19:30 Sophiatown Heritage Jazz Encounters – Celebrate Sophiatown's rich jazz history with local jazz musicians. Sophiatown Heritage & Cultural Centre 18:30 Carlos Santana. FNB Stadium 21:00 Eminem. Ellis Park Stadium Così Fan Tutte* – First opera of the season from Gauteng Opera. SA State Theatre, Pretoria 20:00 Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra – Strauss, Bruch and Rachmaninov. Linder Auditorium 15:00 Wozani: Discover The Orchestra – Concert from Johannesburg Youth Orchestra. UJ Arts Theatre Auditorium 18:30 Kris Kristofferson. Big Top Arena, Carnival City 20:00 Joss Stone. Big Top Arena, Carnival City

28.03–29.03 29.03 15.04–10.05

Event & Venue 20:00 Trevor Noah* – It's My Culture. Teatro, Monetcasino Fifty Shades of Bambi** – PieterDirk Uys's risqué cabaret show.

Theatre on the Square 20:00 Basketmouth and the Three Kings Uncensored – African standup comedy night. Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City 20:30 Nik Rabinowitz Stand Up – Taking the Pistorius out of everything South African. Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City 20:30 An Audience with Pieter-Dirk Eish! Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City 19:30 Jimmy Carr – Gagging Order.

Big Top Arena, Carnival City Matthew Ribnick Monkey Nuts Impersonation-based stand-up comedy/theatre. Theatre on the Square

* Performances on Sun 02.03 and 09.03 at 18:00. No shows on Mon, Tue, Wed. ** Performances Tue–Fri at 20:15, Sat at 17:00 and 20:30, Sun at 15:00. No shows on Mon.

Unless otherwise specified, event tickets are available from Computicket Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

CULTURE & EVENTS Venues Venue Alexander Theatre

Address and contact details C-2, 36 Stiemens St, Braamfontein, www.thealex.co.za.

Big Top Arena

Carnival City Casino and Entertainment World, cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www. carnivalcitycasino.co.za.

Elevate

D-5, 16th floor Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.reefhotels.co.za.

Ellis Park Stadium

G-2, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 8644, www.ellispark.co.za.

FNB Stadium

Cnr Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za.

Linder Auditorium

27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za.

Lyric Theatre

Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Complex, Northern Park Way, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www. goldreefcity.co.za.

Shop 24, Montecasino, 1 Montecasino Parkers Comedy & Jive Blvd, Fourways, +27 11 511 0082, www.parkerscomedy.com Club P. O.P. Art Theatre

G-4, 286 Fox St, Mab oneng, Ci t y Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www. popartcentre.co.za.

Randlords

C-2, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, www.randlords.co.za.

73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), SophiaSophiatown Heritage and town, tel. +27 11 673 1271, http:// Cultural Centre sophiatown.net.

320 Pretorius St, Pretoria City Centre, South African Pretoria, tel. +27 12 322 7944, www.

State Theatre statetheatre.co.za.

Soweto Theatre

Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, www. promusica.co.za.

Teatro

Montecasino Casino and Entertainment Complex, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, www.montecasino.co.za.

Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Theatre on the Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 8606, www.

Square theatreonthesquare.co.za.

U.J. Arts Centre Theatre

U.J. Kingsway Campus, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 484 1256

Wits Theatre

B-2, Cnr Jorissen St and Station St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1376, www.wits.ac.az/witstheatre.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Rocky Horror Picture Show, Pieter Toerien Theatre

Theatre and dance Until 23.02 Sunday

The Coloured Museum

B-4, Market Theatre, cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, http://markettheatre. co.za. Sharp satire by American Tony award-winner George C. Wolfe, made up of 11 ‘exhibits’ that boldly confront old and new stereotypes about what it means to be black in contemporary America.QEvening performances at 20:00, Sun at 15:00. No performances Mon. Tickets R79-126.

Until 30.03 Sunday

Rocky Horror Picture Show

Pieter Toerien’s Main Theatre, Montecasino, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www.montecasino.co.za. An all-South African cast stage Richard O’Brien’s cult classic. Don’t forget to bring your fishnets and feather boas and prepare to do the Time Warp again!QEvening performances at 20:00, also Sat at 16:00 and Sun at 14:00 and 18:00. No performances Mon. Tickets R100–R350.

10.02 Monday – 22.02 Saturday

Volunteer Man

Theatre on the Square, Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 8606, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za. Two unlikely companions – an introverted gay man and a tough drug dealer suffering from Aids – discuss the nature of right and wrong as one man yearns for euthanasia in the face of certain death. Praised for its mix of humour and serious moral dilemmas.QPerformances at 20:15. No performances 16.02 and 17.02. Tickets R140, students and pensioners R100. Book online with strictlytickets.com.

12.02 Wednesday – 16.03 Sunday

Did We Dance: Ukutshona ko Mendi (The Sinking of the Mendi)

B-4, Market Theatre, cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, http://markettheatre.co.za. The tragic story of the South African soldiers trapped on the SS Mendi as it sank in British waters during the First World War. The title is derived from the legend of the ‘death dance’ – the men performed one last, barefoot dance on the tilting deck before the Mendi disappeared into the ocean.QPerformances at 20:15, Sun at 15:15 only. No performances Mon. Tickets R79–R116.

See johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for more events at venues listed February - April 2014

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CULTURE & EVENTS 21.02 Friday – 23.02 Sunday

Jozi Film Festival

Various venues including Bioscope Cinema, Maboneng.

See official website for details, www.jozifilmfestival. co.za. Showcases local and international filmmakers whose work has been inspired by the city.

01.03 Saturday – 31.03 Monday

Francophonie 2014

Various venues, see website for details, tel. +27 11 646 1169, www.alliance.org.za. Led by the Alliance Française, the city celebrates all things French with concerts, film screenings, exhibitions, food markets, performances and workshops.

06.03 Thursday – 09.03 Sunday

Ramfest Coppelia, Joburg Theatre

13.02 Thursday – 16.02 Sunday

Hate Radio

B-2, Wits Theatre, 25 Station St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/johannesburg. During three horrific months in 1994, an estimated one million Rwandans were murdered in a brutal genocide fired by ethnic tensions. The play returns one of the most powerful instruments of the genocide, the Radio-Télévision Libre des Mille Collines (RTLM), to the airwaves.QContact the theatre for ticket prices and performance times.

19.03 Wednesday – 06.04 Sunday

A Human Being Died That Night

B-4, Market Theatre, cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, http://markettheatre. co.za. Based on her award-winning book, psychologist Pumla Gobodo-Madikizela explores complex issues when she meets Eugene de Kock, the apartheid death-squad commanding officer known to the country as ‘Prime Evil’.QPerformances at 20.15, Sun at 15.15. No performances Mon. Tickets from R79.

09.04 Wednesday – 05.05 Monday

Pale Natives

B-4, Market Theatre, cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, http://markettheatre. co.za. Paul Slabolepszy’s pale natives are a bunch of white South African males, nervously awaiting the change to a democratic South Africa.QPerformances at 20:00, and also at 15.00 on Sun. No performances Mon. Tickets R79–R168.

17.04 Thursday – 21.04 Monday

Daughters of the King: An Easter Gospel Extravaganza

C-2, Mandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre.com. The story of Christ’s passion features local gospel stars and a live band.QPerformances at 19.30, and at 14.30 on 20.04 and 21.04 Tickets R150–R250. Book online with Joburg Theatre.

Festivals

Witfontein, Bronkhorstspruit, www.ramfest.co.za. This alternative festival which takes place to the east of Pretoria, regularly attracts internationals bands.QFull weekend camping pass R700. Book with plankton.mobi.

22.03 Saturday

Joburg We Are One Colour Festival

Emmarentia Dam, Olifants Rd, Emmarentia, www.facebook.com/joburgweareone. Inspired by the Indian Holi festival, One Colour is a hippy event featuring local Joburg bands and bags of eco-friendly coloured powders.QStarts at 12:00. Tickets R190; R290 with five bags of coloured powder.

06.04 Sunday – 12.04 Saturday

City of Gold 2014: Urban Art Festival

Grayscale Gallery, 33 De Korte St, Braamfontein, and at various locations, www.cityofgoldfestival.co.za. The fourth edition of South Africa’s first and only urban art festival.

For seven days the streets will come alive in a riot of colour as international artists join their local counterparts in leaving their mark on the city’s walls. Includes film screenings, exhibitions and street-art walking tours.QSee website for full details of locations and ticket prices.

27.04 Sunday

Back to the City Festival

B-4, Mary Fitzgerald Sq, cnr Bree and Henry Nxumalo Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 72 591 5459, www.backtothecityfestival.com. The biggest annual hip hop gathering in Africa (last year more than 15 000 people attended).

Fifty local MCs and DJs, three different stages, dance crews, beatboxers and b-boys and girls. Graffiti artists show off their talents while BMXers and skateboarders pull some stunts.

QOpen 10:00–24:00. Tickets R100 at entrance.

Exhibitions Until 15.02 Saturday

Faces of War

Goodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Artist Gabrielle Goliath’s striking hyperrealistic photo and video portraits bring into the open the ‘unseen’ or invisible nature of domestic violence creating an unsettling effect on bystanders.

QOpen 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

15.02 Saturday

Until 29.03 Saturday

Expo Centre Johannesburg, cnr Nasrec and Rand Show Rds, Johannesburg South, www.ultrasouthafrica.com.

The hugely popular Ultra music festival is headlined by Dutch superstar DJ Tiesto. Local names to look out for include Black Coffee and the funky duo, Goldfish.QStarts at 12:00. Tickets R850, VIP R1 500–R3 000. Book with Ultra South Africa.

D-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Walter Oltmann is famous for his wire sculptures. This exhibition celebrates three decades of his exceptional work.QOpen 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00.

Closed Sun.

Ultra South Africa 2014

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

In The Weave

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

CULTURE & EVENTS Cultural organisations Alliance Française of Johannesburg 17 Lower Park Dr, cnr Kerry Rd, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 1169, www.alliance.org.za.Q Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:30. Closed Sun. TUK

Gabrielle Goliath, ‘Faces of War’, Goodman Gallery

Until 30.03 Sunday

Queer and Trans Arti-culations

B-2, Wits Arts Museum (WAM), University Corner, cnr Bertha St (extension of Jan Smuts Ave) and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1358, www.wits.ac.za/ wam. Igniting discussion and understanding of issues affecting the queer and transgender community, Zanele Muholi and Gabrielle le Roux explore the rights of queer and transgender people in Africa and beyond.QOpen Wed–Sun 10:00–16:00.

Until 22.03 Saturday

DSS2, Lyndi Sales

Circa Gallery, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery.co.za. A diagnosed eye condition started Sales on her investigation into eyesight dilemmas caused by astigmatism. A beautiful and affecting inquiry into what we see and how we see it.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

Until 01.03 Saturday

French Institute of South Africa (IFAS) C-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0458, www. ifas.org.za.QOpen 8:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. U Goethe-Institut 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/johannesburg.

QOpen 09:00–13:00, 14:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30.

Library open Mon–Thu 14:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–14:00.

Closed Sun. TUK

Family fun 03.03 Saturday – 20.04 Sunday

Alice in Wonderland

C-2, People’s Theatre, cnr Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St) and Hoofd Sts, Joburg Theatre Complex, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1563, www.peoplestheatre. co.za. Alice’s madcap adventures.QMon–Fri shows at 09:00 and 11:00. Sat, Sun and school holidays, shows at 10:30 and 14:30. Tickets R105. Call theatre for bookings.

07.03 Friday – 23.03 Sunday

Coppelia

Lizamore and Associates, 1 Chester Court, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www. lizamore.co.za. ‘Where the idea of the book becomes a book of ideas.’ A collaborative exhibition by Bisschoff and selected artists.QOpen 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00.

Closed Sun, Mon.

C-2, Mandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel.

0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre.com. Joburg Ballet’s take on this classic tale of intrigue and love with a sprinkling of magic.QPerformances at 19:30, and at 15:00 on 8.03, 09.03, 15.03, 16.03, 22.03 and 23.03.

Also at 11:00 on 09.03, 11.03 and 18.03. Tickets R200– R400. Book online with Joburg Theatre.

Until 16.03 Sunday

16.03 Sunday

G-4, GoetheonMain, 245 Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/johannesburg. Muntu Vilakazi’s fascinating photographs of youth subcultures found in the townships east of Joburg. Youngsters live and party extravagantly in areas beset by grinding poverty.QOpen Tue, Wed 10:00–16:00, Thu 11:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–14:00. Closed Mon.

U.J. Arts Centre Auditorium, U.J. Kingsway Campus, Auckland Park, +27 11 484 1256, www.jyoc.org.za.

A performance by the Johannesburg Youth Orchestra.

QPerformance at 15:00. Tickets R50, available at the door or book by phone or email info@orchestracompany. org.za.

Co Author, Olaf Bisschoff

The Politics of Bling: East Rand Culture Quest

Until 14.03 Friday

Interdisciplinary Collaboration: Clare Loveday and Nandipha Mntambo

Goethe Gallery and Auditorium, Goethe-Institut, 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www. goethe.de/johannesburg. Composer Clare Loveday and fine artist Nandipha Mntambo collaborate to produce an installation for the 2014 Joburg International Mozart Festival.QSee Goethe-Institut website for performance dates.

13.02 Thursday – 13.03 Thursday

Cedric Nunn

Seippel Gallery, Sophiatown Heritage Centre, 73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 71 227 0910, www.seippel-gallery. com. One of the country’s most accomplished photojournalists focuses on the difficulties faced by rural communities 20 years after the arrival of democracy, focusing on a farm called Cornfields.QBy appointment.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Wozani: Discover the Orchestra

28.03 Friday - 04.05 Sunday

The Astounding Antics of Anthony Ant

National Children’s Theatre, 3 Junction Avenue, Parktown, +27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. Join Ant on his quest to save the ant colony from a mysterious poison.QPerformances Tue–Sun at 10:30 and 14:30. Tickets R110 for seats, R90 for cushions suitable for small children. Bookings essential by phone or email bookings@nctt.org.za.

05.04 Saturday – 08.06 Sunday

Sound of Music

Teatro, Montecasino, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www. montecasino.co.za. A lavish, all-star South African production.QPerformances at 20:00, also Sat 15:00, Sun 14:00, 16:00 and on 21.4 and 28.4 at 15:00. Tickets R150–R425.

February - April 2014

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20

CULTURE & EVENTS 02.04 Wednesday – 08.04 Tuesday

SA Fashion Week

Crowne Plaza Hotel Johannesburg, cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 442 7812, www. safashionweek.co.za. The country’s premier fashion event.

In addition to all the swooning, networking and inevitable flood of Instagram shots, there are opportunities for retail therapy at the pop-up shop.QFor programme and ticket information see SA Fashion Week website.

The Rise and Fall of Apartheid, Museum Africa

09.04 Wednesday – 20.07 Sunday

Ukuhamba Ngezinyawo, Migrant Journeys

B-4, MuseuMAfricA, 121 Bree St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624, www.riseandfallofapartheid.co.za. An award-winning international exhibition coinciding with the 20th anniversary of democracy in South Africa offers a comprehensive historical overview of the varying responses to apartheid.QOpen 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon.

B-2, Wits Arts Museum (WAM), University Corner, cnr Bertha St (extension of Jan Smuts Ave) and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1358, www.wits.ac.za/ wam. A powerful exhibition of the dangers, difficulties and feelings of dispossession faced by migrant workers who journey from rural South Africa to find employment in Joburg.

The works span a period of 120 years and include personal items, contemporary art, historical archives, photography, film and music.QOpen 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

06.03 Thursday – 25.03 Tuesday

24.04 Thursday – 25.05 Sunday

Lizamore and Associates, 1 Chester Court, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www. lizamore.co.za. Dirk Bahmann’s work involves his existential search for a sense of place in the city.QOpen 10:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:30. Closed Sun, Mon.

B-4, Two By Two Art Studio, 41 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 81 831 3557, www.twobytwo.co.za.

An illustration-based exhibition forming a dialogue between Cape Town artist Rayaan Cassim and Johannesburg artist Nic Hooper, both very active on the graffiti scene. Opening event on 24.04 at 18:00.QOpen 10:00–16:00 only or by prior appointment. Closed Sun, Mon.

13.02 Thursday – 29.06 Sunday

Rise and Fall of Apartheid

Johannesburg Sensorium

27.03 Thursday – 19.04 Saturday

AKA (Round 2)

B-4, Two By Two Art Studio, 41 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 81 831 3557, www.twobytwo.co.za.

All works on show are created by artists active in the Joburg graffiti scene. Opening event 27.03 at 18:00.QOpen Tue–Sat 10:00–16:00 only or by prior appointment.

27.03 Thursday – 07.05 Wednesday

Simon Gush: Red

Goethe Gallery, Goethe-Institut, 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/ johannesburg. In July 1990 workers at a Mercedes-Benz plant gave Nelson Mandela a red 500 SE, made in their free time with parts supplied by the factory. A look at what the gift represented.QOpening event 18:30 on 27.03. Open 09:00–13:00, 14:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30.

Parties

Media Monster

Cinemas Nu Metro tel. 0861 246 362, www.numetro.co.za. Cinema complexes at Hyde Park Corner, Montecasino and other northern-suburb malls screening mainstream Hollywood and British films.QTickets R53.

Ster-Kinekor tel. +27 82 167 89, www.sterkinekor. com. 3D-screens, Prestige cinema and Cinema Nouveau art-house movie theatres. Romantics can book love-nest seats.QTickets from R58.

The Bioscope G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre,

tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za. Joburg’s only independent cinema for arthouse, indie, documentary and foreign films. Especially recommended for African films.

QTickets R40, or R100 for a pizza-and-drink combo.

Sport 12.02 Wednesday – 16.02 Sunday

First Sunfoil Cricket Test Match South Africa vs Australia

SuperSport Park, Centurion West Rd, Centurion, tel. +27 12 663 1005, www.cricket.co.za.QTickets R30–R60.

15.02 Saturday – 02.08 Saturday

Vodacom SuperRugby Championship 2014

Every Sunday, rain or shine, salsa fans gather on the roof of Canteen Restaurant (Arts on Main), G-4, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.rooftopsalsa. co.za for a fun salsa dancing party.QFrom 12:00–18:00.

Entrance free.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

G-2, Ellis Park Stadium, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 8644, www.ellispark.co.za. Fifteen top rugby union teams from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa vie for the top spot. Joburg’s MTN Lions play all their home games at this venue.

22.02 MTN Lions vs DHL Stormers (Cape Town) 15.03 MTN Lions vs Blues (Auckland, New Zealand) 22.03 MTN Lions vs Reds (Queensland, Australia) 05.04 MTN Lions vs Crusaders (Christchurch, New Zealand) 12.04 MTN Lions vs Sharks (Durban)

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CULTURE & EVENTS 05.03 Wednesday

Bafana Bafana vs Brazil

FNB Stadium, Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Johannesburg South, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za. The national soccer team takes on the mighty Brazilians.QStarts at 19:00. Tickets R50–R200.

14.03 Friday

Third KFC T20 International Cricket South Africa vs Australia

SuperSport Park, Centurion West Rd, Centurion, tel. +27 12 663 1005, www.cricket.co.za.QStarts at 18:00.

Tickets R200–R280.

16.03 Sunday

Hyundai Rock the Run

Mushroom Farm Park, Sandton, www.rocktherun.co.za.

A 10km or 21.1km route road run with free access to the rocking after-party.QEntries R220 for 10km and R250 for 21.1km. Deadline for race entries 26.02. Register online.

Last Friday of every month Critical Mass Johannesburg

C-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, jhb.criticalmass.co.za. Monthly mass cycle around the inner-city.

Cyclists of all ages and backgrounds show up in their brightest gear. The route includes a pit-stop in Maboneng. The organisers can help you rent a bike for the night.QStarts at 19:00. Meeting point in Braamfontein.

Soccer Date 2.02 8.02 16.02 1.03 8.03 15.03 19.03 28.03 5.04 15.04 19.04 26.04

Event & Venue 15:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs SuperSport United. FNB 20:15 Orlando Pirates vs Mamelodi Sundowns. OS 15:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs Bloemfontein Celtic. FNB 20:15 Orlando Pirates vs Free State Stars. OS 20:15 Kaizer Chiefs vs Golden Arrows. FNB 15:30 Soweto Derby: Kaizer Chiefs vs Orlando Pirates. FNB 19:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs Ajax Cape Town. FNB 20:00 Orlando Pirates vs Moroka Swallows. OS 20:15 Kaizer Chiefs vs Mamelodi Sundowns. FNB 19:30 Orlando Pirates vs Maritzburg United. OS 20:15 Kaizer Chiefs vs Free State Stars. FNB 15:00 Orlando Pirates vs Platinum Stars. OS

Gauteng's two biggest teams, Pirates and Chiefs, both come from Soweto and have a fanatical local following and intense rivalry.

Both play in the Absa Premiership. Chiefs are currently the league champions and Pirates finished third in 2013. The Soweto Derby (tickets R50-R200) is one of the most highly anticipated annual local sporting events, and is considered to be one of the most exciting derbies in world football for stadium spectators.

FNB Stadium, cnr Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Johannesburg South, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.kaizerchiefs.com.

Orlando Stadium, Mooki St, Orlando East, Soweto, +27 27 11 247 5300, www.orlandopiratesfc.com.

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WHERE TO STAY InterContinental Johannesburg O.R. Tambo O.R.

InterContinental Johannesburg O.R. Tambo Joburg has no shortage of accommodation options and a great variety of prices to suit all budgets. Local five-star hotels compete with the best of them and offer spa treatments fit for celebrities, chauffeur-driven cars, king-sized beds and superior service. There’s also a wide array of boutique hotels, smart guest houses and bed-and-breakfast establishments, fashionable places offering unique and intimate settings. Business travellers and urban tourists alike will discover great mid-range hotel options, while backpackers looking for good value and unique locations will not be disappointed. Rates given are starting prices.

Luxury hotels Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa Alma Rd, Morn-

ingside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns. co.za. This five-star hotel has played home to international dignitaries and counts the city’s Champagne-and-polo set as regulars. Its plush rooms are decorated thematically with lots of precious objects, and even the bathrooms are spacious enough to throw a party in (not recommended). The emphasis is on polished service and fine cuisine. A large patio overlooks the garden and an inviting swimming pool; when the weather turns, take refuge in the award-winning Balinese-style spa.

Q40 rooms: suites R4 950–R5 500, presidential suite (three bedrooms) R22 000, private villa (three bedrooms) R22 000. iHFLKDCwW

Hyatt Regency 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11

280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Rosebank’s premier hotel is a popular destination for the city’s business who’s who and is ideally located for visitors seeking to stay metres from a shopping and entertainment hub. Recently renovated, its One Nine One restaurant – the hotel’s address on Oxford Road – serves international cuisine that incorporates local flavours. A new garden terrace wine and cigar bar is popular for sundowners. The Regency Club offers a hotel within a hotel, and there is a 24-hour fitness centre and fullservice day spa.QRates from R3 600. Capped wi-fi is free for guests, while uncapped high-speed Internet is priced at R250 per 24 hours. iTHUFLBKCwW

Symbol key

Tambo International Airport, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 961 5400, www.ihg.com. This premier airport hotel is only 68.7m from the arrivals terminal and near the Gautrain station. Excellent soundproofing makes it impossible to imagine you are at Africa’s busiest airport. The plush rooms feature king-sized beds, and a gym and spa overlook the runways. Watch planes from the swimming pool, or opt for drinks on the deck. The interiors have interesting African flourishes, and the hotel’s Quills restaurant is named for the 300 porcupine quills incorporated into the décor. A business centre and state-of-the-art conference facilities make this a perfect choice for the fly-in, fly-out business crowd.Q138 rooms: singles, king deluxe and twin deluxe. Rates start from R3 850. THUFLKCwW

InterContinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers

Cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www.intercontinental.com/johannesburg. With its stately foyer complete with palm trees, Koi fish pond and Greek mythological references, this hotel attracts kings, presidents and CEOs. The setting is grown-up, with an executive club located on the 27th floor. Suites are designed to host highlevel meetings, and have ample desk space and computer printers. The fitness centre overlooks an outdoor pool, and a spa is located across a sky bridge. Another bridge takes you to the Sandton Convention Centre and to Nelson Mandela Square.Q231 rooms: singles, suites, presidential suite and Club rooms. Rates start at R3 185 and exclude breakfast.

HUFLKCwW

Boutique hotels Clico Boutique Hotel 27 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel.

+27 11 252 3300, http://clico-boutique-hotel.co.za.

The setting is a Cape Dutch-style homestead in a quiet suburban street, a short walk from the bustle of Rosebank.

The emphasis is on personalised service and fine food, with tasting menus available to guests. The warm, cream-coloured interiors contrast well with the lush gardens, and rooms all face the pool. The hotel has one self-catering suite. A garden function room is perfect for intimate events and conferences.

It’s a 900m walk to a Gautrain station. Transfers can be arranged on request.Q9 rooms: singles R1 980, doubles R2 420. TH6ULKCW

Ten Bompas Hotel 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27

11 325 2442, www.10bompas.com. The owners’ brief specified that this 10-suite hotel had to be a home from home, so its 10 designers thought of everything: a fireplace for winter nights, plenty of natural light, groundfloor patios and a balcony for easy garden access, without sacrificing the privacy of a small hotel. A newly refurbished restaurant, The Winehouse, has a French-inspired menu, and the hotel is conveniently located a short distance from Hyde Park Corner and restaurants in Dunkeld and Craighall Park. A member of Design Hotels.QRooms R3 500. THULKCW

Ten Second Avenue 10 2nd Ave, Hougton Estate, tel.

6 Animal friendly

i Breakfast

T Child friendly

H Conference facilities

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Internet

K Restaurant

w Spa

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi connection

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

+27 11 853 2400, www.houghtonestate.com. Conjuring the feel of a stately country home, this five-star boutique hotel is set in the tranquil suburb of Houghton amid a landscaped garden complete with rich bird life. The emphasis is on gracious living, and the hotel is a refuge from the city’s pace. It is a few minutes from the Rosebank Gautrain station, which links to O.R. Tambo International Airport, Sandton and Pretoria, and a short drive from the airport. The hotel also offers intimate conference facilities perfect for discrete high-level meetings.

Q15 rooms: singles R1 820, doubles R2 420, suites R2 320, presidential suite R4 250. iULCW

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WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite C-2, 120 De Korte

St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www.proteahotels.com/parktonian. The rooftop (for guests only) is one of the best kept secrets in the city, with breathtaking 360-degree views of the skyline from the pool deck and gym.

The lobby is vast and the 300 suites are all one bedroom units. The buzzy Orchards Restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets, as well as dinner à la carte. The Gautrain station is within walking distance and the hotel offers complimentary evening shuttles (midweek) to various nightlife and entertainment spots. With seven boardrooms and seven conference rooms (up to 450 delegates) this is a popular business hotel. On weekdays business drop-offs and collections within a 10 km radius are offered.Q300 suites: R850–R1 440. iTHUFLKCW The Peech, Melrose

The Peech 61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797,

www.thepeech.co.za. With 16 spacious suites set in a verdant garden, this hotel is a chic hideaway from the busyness that surrounds it. The décor is Africa modern. James Peech’s boutique hotel is also an eco-conscious choice. Centrally located in Melrose, a short walk from Melrose Arch, it has an outdoor swimming pool, bistro with garden views and a patio from which to admire the superb setting.Q16 rooms: doubles R2 400, suites R2 800. iTHUFLKCW

Mid-range hotels Faircity Mapungubwe Hotel C-5, 50 Marshall St, Marshalltown, City Centre, tel. +27 11 429 2600, www. mapungubwehotel.co.za. A four-star city hotel, the rooms are apartment-style and include a lounge and open-plan kitchenette. Spacious and tastefully themed, the hotel is named after the legendary African kingdom famed for its gold-trading links. One of the city’s best-kept secrets is the hotel bar housed in the original French Bank vault, where you can enjoy a drink amid the original brass-and-copper safetydeposit boxes. Legend has it that Boer commandos raided the bank in 1899 to fund their war efforts.Q96 rooms. Rates on request. iTHFLKCW

Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel Cnr Rivonia Rd and West

St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www.radissonblu. com/hotelsandton-johannesburg. The businesslike exterior of this hotel hides the modern, stylish interiors and busy social life of Central One Restaurant and its bar and lounge area. Wooden floors, contemporary South African artwork and interesting design features abound. The extravagantly spacious lobby leads to a pool deck (on summer Fridays a DJ provides a welcome distraction from meetings and deadlines) overlooking Sandton. With the Gautrain and Sandton City metres from the door, this is a super-popular nest for the business crowd and shoppers from across the globe. Rates vary. Conferencing facilities for 12 to 600 people.Q216 rooms: singles R1 199, doubles R1 318, suites R1 850.

THUFLKCW

Protea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, tel. + 27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/melrose. This hotel’s quirky and playful charm pays homage to Hollywood’s original glamour and glitzy boys and girls: Elvis, Marilyn Monroe and Holly Golightly. Situated in the Melrose Arch precinct, a popular lifestyle destination with loads of restaurants and shops at your door. The rooms are a comfortable size, dressed in crisp white linen.

Service is friendly and the hotel lounge is a popular hangout for locals who love the milkshake bar’s double-thick shakes.

Q197 rooms: singles, doubles, suites. Rates on request.

THUFLKCW

RadissonBlu Gautrain Hotel, Sandton

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All rates quoted include value-added tax at 14% February - April 2014

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WHERE TO STAY Easy Hotel C-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.easyhotel.com. This stylish and vibrant hotel overlooks The Grove piazza and is favoured by the visiting smart set who frequent the nearby university. The rooms are compact and the décor cheerfully nods to interesting local historical characters – writers, musicians, paleoanthropologists – with each floor referencing their contribution to South African society. This is a fantastic location from which to launch your city adventures, with great restaurants, coffee shops, galleries and nightlife on your doorstep, easy access to public transport and the City Sightseeing bus, and across the road from the popular Neighbourgoods Market.

Q60 rooms: doubles R740. Internet R25 per hour. TLW The Maslow, Sandton

The Maslow Hotel Cnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.suninternational. com/maslow. Opened in 2013, The Maslow prides itself on being the ultimate business hotel, but it is also a social hotspot with drinks at sundown on Friday and jazz events on Sundays. Close to a Gautrain station and the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, the hotel houses a high-tech fitness centre, conference centre, a ballroom and an Africology Spa. It offers a complimentary shuttle service to the airport. A special feature is the Wayfarer lounge, a transit lounge for pre-check-in and post-check-out with complimentary snacks and sumptuous private bathrooms.Q280 rooms: from R1 299 per person per night. Breakfast R175. THUFLKCwW The Nicol Cnr Skeen Blvd and Nicol Rd, Bedfordview, tel.

+27 11 455 0549, www.urbanhiphotels.com. A business hotel with rooms and apartments, The Nicol has the feel of living in an attractive, fully serviced apartment block. O.R. Tambo International Airport is close by, and Eastgate and Bedford Centre, two major shopping centres, are less than 15 minutes’ drive away.

The one to three-bedroom apartments have full kitchens and all other mod cons for long-term stays. It offers a 24-hour fitness centre, outdoor swimming pool, café and access to catered boardrooms and a conference venue for guests.Q70 rooms from R910, one and three-bedroom apartments from R2 110.

Breakfast not included. THFLKCW

Budget design hotels Bannister Hotel C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein,

tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. A hip budget hotel in busy, buzzy Braamfontein. The popular Neighbourgoods Market is a neighbour, as is 70 Juta Street, with its décor stores, cycling shop and art galleries. The rooms are bright with crisp white linen, free wi-fi and artistic touches.

Hotel owner Andrew Bannister is a former photographer, and his iconic album-cover image of Zimbabwean singer Oliver Mtukudzi graces the entrance. Bannister managed what was formerly the Metro Hotel long before the hipsters arrived and declared Braamfontein the capital of cool.Q31 rooms: doubles R595, suites R485–R595. THLKW

4-star luxury guest house. Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor. Close to Sandton and Rosebank. www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Twelve Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. 086 122 6787, www. urbanhiphotels.com. An avant-garde design hotel that pays homage to 12 decades of the city’s history, with each room designed by a different artist to reflect a historic moment. The décor is playful and stylish and, if you have time, ask to view the other rooms (a favourite is room 1946-1956 titled ‘A part love A part hate’). Referencing the official start of apartheid in 1948 and its proscription on interracial love, the room has a number of witty rejoinders to the atrocious policies of the day.

The ground floor of the hotel houses a theatre, cinema and loads of restaurants.Q16 rooms: doubles R870. Rates exclude breakfast. Internet R50 per hour. THFLCwW

Guest houses and B&Bs Chateau de Carolle 100 Mowbray Rd, Greenside, tel.

+27 82 411 2222, www.chateaudecarolle.co.za. Set in a leafy street in the tranquil suburb of Greenside, in close proximity to outdoor spaces Zoo Lake and Emmarentia Dam, Carol Millard’s guest house has three comfortable cottages, each with a private entrance, kitchenettes and luxury touches.

The décor is classical, with antique pieces and Persian rugs.

Rooms are designed for comfort, with Egyptian cotton linen, flatscreen TVs and satellite channels.Q3 rooms: single cottages R630–R750, double cottages R430–R600. R250 per extra bed per night. iLW

Liz at Lancaster 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster.co.za. This cosy four-star guest house set in a lush garden offers the option of self-catering accommodation or B&B rooms. Cottages have private entrances and enclosed patios. Owner Liz Delmont has thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible, including underfloor heating for chilly winter nights, fully equipped kitchens, wi-fi, king-sized beds, a same-day laundry service and private phone lines. Liz is a maven on all things Joburg (see her blog on the website), and a driver can get you anywhere you need to go.Q7 rooms: doubles R450–R760, king R550–R895. iT6LCW Motel MiPiChi 35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726

8844, www.motelmipichi.co.za. From the metal gates spelling out ‘MPC’ to the rough face-brick walls and stripped wooden floors, this establishment breathes fresh air across one of Melville’s thoroughfares. Designed by Andrew Makin, famous for his work on the landmark Constitutional Court building, the rooms have great original features (front rooms have showers opening onto private courtyards). Decorated with the owner’s light but quirky touch and some Afro-Asian inspiration, room names are inspired by the art on the guest house walls. Breakfast is served daily and the motel is on a tuk-tuk (three-wheelers) route. It is a great base for many places of interest, including the city, suburbs, Soweto, media houses and universities.Q6 rooms: singles R650, doubles R880. iLW

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WHERE TO STAY

Welcome to Johannesburg’s best guest houses

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za Bannister Hotel, Braamfontein

Backpacker hostels Curiocity Backpackers 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St,

Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 592 0515, http:// curiocitybackpackers.com. It doesn’t get much fresher than this 54-bed backpackers in the former premises of a printing company. From the street it looks like a motel you would find in a Wild West movie, complete with a balcony from which to survey the skyline. There is a plunge pool, hideout bar, front shop, a shisa nyama (a traditional barbecue) stand, plus exhibition space. Curiocity provides an artist exchange for local and international artists: accommodation in exchange for art. It is a great location from which to experience the ‘johustle’ of the city and the hip district of Maboneng. Bheki Dube, the managing partner, has a deep-rooted love and knowledge of the city.Q11 rooms: doubles R350, beds in mixed dorms R150, beds in women-only dorms R150, single/ twin rooms R250–R400. Rates exclude breakfast. Only Visa credit cards accepted. THUFLCW

Soweto Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers 10823A Pooe St, cnr

Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www. sowetobackpackers.com. Also known as Lebo’s, this justifiably celebrated 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms or space to pitch your tent in the back garden. There’s a kitchen for self-catering or enjoy cooked breakfasts, home-style meals and braais. Other comforts include a welcoming courtyard with an open fire, games and a rocking beach-style bar. The surrounding area is friendly and safe, with the main sights within easy walking distance.QSingle, R270; double, R390; dormitory R160 per person. Wi-fi R20 per 100MB. iTLW

Soweto Hotel & Conference Centre Cnr Union Ave

and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za. A keen promoter of local history and heritage, this four-star hotel overlooks the place where the Freedom Charter was born in 1955.

The hotel’s Jazz Maniacs restaurant is an elegant venue for all celebrations. Kliptown’s historic main street with its busy traders is on your front door, along with the Kliptown Museum, which colourfully recreates the history of the Freedom Charter and the long fight for human rights in South Africa.QRates start from R2 020 for a single room, R2 154 for a double.

TULKW

A comprehensive website that offers 31 affordable accommodation options.

All our establishments are centrally located and within easy travelling distance of the Rosebank Gautrain station, Hyde Park, Sandton, the Johannesburg city centre and major motorways.

Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, overnighting or here for a longer stay, we invite you to experience our friendly hospitality and service.

All major credit cards accepted unless otherwise stated johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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WHERE TO EAT Little Addis G-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 683 8675, www.mabonengprecinct.com.

Heavenly smells waft from this pocket-sized restaurant. If you aren’t familiar with Ethiopian food, the menu is easy to navigate with only eight items to choose from. Try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injeera bread, giving you the chance to sample a variety of flavourful specialities, all made according to the owner’s family recipes.QOpen 11:00–22:00. Closed Sun. Find it at Market on Main on Sundays. R. B Sharp! Braai G-4, Cnr Kruger and Fox Sts, Maboneng,

Park Café, Parkwood Joburg offers everything from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings. In summer book an outdoor table to appreciate the fine weather. With South African wines as good as they are, it is worth taking your own bottle to a restaurant. Expect to pay a corkage fee of around R50.

Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards.

African District Six Eatery (D6) 42B Greenhill Rd, Emmaren-

tia, tel. +27 11 486 7226. A colourful, kitsch backdrop celebrates the owner’s childhood in District Six – a vibrant Cape Town neighbourhood destroyed by apartheid – and the food pays tribute to Cape Malay cuisine. Indian Ocean spices flavour a small menu of traditional dishes, such as bredie (stew), bobotie (curried minced meat topped with a rich, savoury custard) and curries. Friendly service is a hallmark of this establishment.QOpen 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:30.

Closed Mon. Corkage R15. RRR. UEBS

House of Baobab G-4, Main Street Life, cnr Fox and

Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 1632, www.mabonengprecinct.com. A brightly coloured restaurant with a youthful atmosphere and truly pan-African flavours. Expect dishes influenced by South African, Nigerian, Senegalese, Moroccan and Ethiopian cuisine, plus plenty of vegetarian options. Occasional live music performances from West African musicians are a highlight. Buffets on Sundays.

QOpen 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. EBS

Symbol key T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi

Price key* R = Less than R70

RR = R71–R110

RRR = R111–R160

RRRR = Take out a loan

* Based on the price of an average main course. No prices for cafés provided.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. A quirky little braai stand in fashionable Maboneng. If it’s not the delicious meaty smoke wafting through the streets that attracts you to this converted shipping container, then the great tunes on the ghetto blaster might do it. Seating is on beer crates, and the shisa nyama-style food is made to order straight from the butcher counter.QOpen 09:30–22:00. RR. B

Asian Gwefey World Trade Centre Johannesburg, cnr West Rd South and Lower Rd, Morningside, www.gwefey.com. A sleek and boldly designed interior with views of Sandton. This upmarket spot has an extensive menu of authentic dishes from China, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. Spicy food and dim sum are specialities here. Lunch-time specials make this a popular business destination, with low lighting turning up the romance quotient after hours.QOpen 12:00–22:00. RRR.

Koi Shop 19, The Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 2440, www.koirest.co.za. A sophisticated choice in an upmarket setting for Asian cuisine with an original twist. The food is beautifully presented, the service efficient, and there’s a carefully selected wine list.

A great choice for dim sum (try the spinach-cream cheese parcel) and fish dishes.QOpen 12:00–22:30. RRR. LB Simply Asia Shop 2, Parkhurst Sq, 38 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 3037, www.simplyasia. co.za. This cheerful, well-priced noodle-bar serves fragrant and flavourful Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese-inspired dishes.

Several options ratchet up the spiciness, and there are plenty of tasty stir-fry choices. Good for meat-eaters, seafood fans and vegetarians.QOpen 11:30–21:30. R. TLVBS Chinese Northern Foods Restaurant 20 Derrick Ave,

Cyrildene, tel. +27 72 030 9414. The word ‘authentic’ keeps coming up when people talk about the food served here. Dumplings, hot pots, heaps of garlic and exotically described dishes, like ‘little sheep with oil’, are on the menu. Focus on the food, not the décor.QOpen 12:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:30. RR.

Fisherman’s Plate 18 Derrick Ave, Cyrildene, tel.

+27 11 622 0480. A super-reasonably priced, no-fuss, no-frills Taiwanese restaurant with a canteen atmosphere.

The dishes here are full of flavour and offer great value.

Bring a crowd and spin that lazy Susan full of plates so you get a chance to taste lots of dishes, including the curried prawns, cashew nut chicken and peppered beef.QOpen 12:00–14:30, 17:30–21:00. Closed Mon. R. UBS

Red Chamber Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www.redchamber.co.za. Emma Chen opened Red Chamber in 1989. In a dimly lit, warm interior she serves up unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes. Famous for spicy cucumber salad with chilli and garlic, Peking duck and sizzling plates, this is one restaurant worth heading to a shopping centre for. The service is efficient and the restaurant has a no-MSG policy.QOpen 12:00–22:00. RR. TULS johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

WHERE TO EAT Regal Palace 110 Linksfield Rd, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 443 3353. Well known among the local Chinese community, the Regal Palace has the widest spread of dim sum selections around to surely satisfy everybody’s taste, especially the pidan zhou (Chinese egg rice pudding). Prices are as low as you will find.QOpen 11:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:00. R.

Yamato 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www.yamato.co.za. This much-awarded restaurant serves elegant and traditional Japanese food. There is a superior sushi and sashimi menu. Highlight dishes include wakame seaweed salad with house dressing, gyoza dumplings best eaten with a touch of chilli oil and soy sauce, and light tempura dishes. A formal atmosphere, but what a combination of flavours.QOpen 12:00–15:00, 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. LS The Blackanese Sushi and Wine Bar G-4, 20 Kru-

ger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455, www.theblackanese.co.za. Fusing flavours from Africa with Japanese cuisine, this is a cute sushi spot in trendy Maboneng. Low lighting, very low seating and enormous and delicious sushi platters. Owner Vusi Kunene started out with a market stall. The African flavours come from biltong and curry spices.QOpen 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00.

Corkage R30. RR. LBS

Yo Sushi Parktown Quarter, cnr 3rd and 7th Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 0246. A brightly lit, basic conveyor-belt stop with swift, friendly service. On the menu are South African-style sushi dishes – plenty of mayonnaise and avocado – plus cooked dishes with noodles and rice and a great chicken satay starter. Perfect for a quick, tasty stop.QOpen 10:00–22:00. Prices per plate (different colour plates have different prices). TLBS

Sai Thai Cnr Derrick Ave and Marcia St, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 615 1339. Authentic Thai food that plays with your flavour sensors, Siriporn (Micky) Lui’s restaurant is a Thai treat on Derrick Avenue in Chinatown. Staff will patiently explain the extensive menu. Micky serves a prize-winning som tom green papaya salad.QOpen 10:30–15:30, 17:30–21:00.

Closed Mon. RR. S Wang Thai Shop 120, 1st Floor, Nelson Mandela Sq,

5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 8484. This sophisticated space serves up beautifully presented, flavourful dishes. It is a much-awarded restaurant, glowingly endorsed by the former Thai ambassador to South Africa. For starters, order the meang khum (spinach cones with a secret sauce) and sweetcorn fritters.QOpen 12:00–21:45, Fri, Sat 12:00–22:15, Sun and public holidays 12:00-21:00. RRR. ULBS

Burger bar For beef burgers there’s Wolfpack and the racier Beefcakes (see Gay Joburg). For a fast-food option head to a mall food court for an unbeatable Steers burger.

Wolfpack 21 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 7705. The weekend crowds pack this hip little joint for manly beef burgers and craft beer, with delicious sides. Friendly service but it can get a little slow as the noise level rises. It gets hipster points for the upside-down roof garden.QOpen Tue–Sat 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Closed Mon. Reservations essential. Corkage R50. RR. UBSW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Whippet, Linden

Cafés Croft & Coffee 66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634. Good service, fresh bottled juices, Illy coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media workers and wannabes. It’s also a tasty lunch choice for salads, toasties and prego rolls.QOpen 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00.

LBSW Daleah’s C-3, 6 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11

403 0243. Behind the spring-fresh green facade you’ll find this café that, despite its popularity, still retains a relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. The décor is quirkily charming and there’s an enticing courtyard in the back. The salads are particularly good, or try the mini burgers (sliders) that always get rave reviews.QOpen 08:30–17:30. Sat 09:00–17:30.

Closed Mon. ULBSW

IT Corner Cnr 7th St and 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 880 0955, www.theitcorner.co.za. The coffee and wi-fi hub of Melville’s many caffeine-addicted Web workers. Grab a window seat for a view of the world going by. The staff know their coffee and also can assist with computer repairs, software and virus problems, printing, copying and scanning.

Laptop rentals are available.QOpen 07:30–19:30. W Love Food Kitchen Café & Deli C-2, 4 Ameshoff St,

Braamfontein, tel. + 27 83 602 6511, lovefoodkitchen. com. A cute streetside eatery with a sumptuous daily-harvest table of freshly-made salads and meat, fish or chicken dishes.

Plates charged by weight. Ask for Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream.

QOpen 07:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The feast is set out by 11:30, arrive early for the widest choice. Corkage R20. R. 6BS

Moemas Shop 1, Parktown Quarter, cnr 3rd and 7th Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7725, www. moemas.co.za. The display of sweet things and patisserie is irresistible. The fresh harvest-table lunch suits most tastes.

Moemas also serves high tea. Service standards vary, but worth it if you have a sweet tooth.QOpen Mon 07:00–18:00, Tue–Fri 07:00–22:00, Sat 08:00–22:00, Sun 08:00–16:00.

ULVBS Park Café The Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts

and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, www. parkcafe.co.za. Pretty and pink with an Astro Turf carpet, this café shares the block with top art galleries. A spectacular coffee machine takes counter pride of place, and the food is supertasty. For breakfast, the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QOpen Mon–Fri 07:30–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. ULESW

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WHERE TO EAT Coffee Cof fee is not just a drink – it’s a lifestyle.

From morning rush-hour queues for takeaway cups or seats at Guru in Parktown North, to e n j o y i n g fa i r- t r a d e Ethiopian roasts at Bean There, 4 4 Stanley or ordering the mothercuppa – a grande at Motherland, this city likes a dark brew. At 4th Avenue Coffee Roasters & Café even the mutts are catered for with doggie water bowls laid out. Or do the stand-up thing and drink your coffee at Uncle Merv’s kiosk in Maboneng (if you want to cheat, order the Felix King smoothie – heaven in a cup for peanut butter fans). Then there’s Cramer’s Coffee, a neighbourhood hangout on Main Street in the city centre, and the blond-wood temple to aesthetics Father Coffee in Braamfontein or corner-spot Doubleshot Coffee and Tea roasters and blenders. Of course, free wi-fi at most coffee stops is not to be sneezed at.

4th Avenue Coffee Roasters & Café Shop 3,

The Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109, www.4thavenuecoffee.co.za.

No food served on Mondays.QOpen 07:00–18:00, Mon 07:00–17:30. 6UBS

Bean There Coffee 44 Stanley, Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere. co.za.Q Open 07:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. Closed public holidays. UBSW Cramers Coffee D-5, Shop No. 9, cnr Harrison and Main Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 2699, www.cramerscoffee.com.QOpen 06:00–17:30, Sat 07:00–13:30. Closed Sun. UEBSW Doubleshot Coffee and Tea C-3, 1 Peppermint

Place, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 100 5241, www.doubleshot.co.za.QOpen 07:45–17:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. W

Father Coffee C-3, Shop 2, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee. co.za.QOpen 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30–17:30. Closed Sun. 6BSW Guru 19 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5044.QOpen 06:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:30–17:00. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. 6ULBSW

Motherland Dunkeld Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2324, www.motherlandcoffee.com. Branches at The Zone @ Rosebank and in Braamfontein.QOpen 09:00–21:00. LBSW

Uncle Merv’s G-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 73 211 5127, www.mabonengprecinct.com/entertainment/restaurants/ uncle-merves.QOpen 07:00–16:00. LBS

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Post C-3, 70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl.tumblr.com. A hipster corner of Braamfontein complete with bearded barristas, a street view from the counter, vinyl on the turntable and a small but adequate breakfast and lunch menu. The ingredients are fresh, locally produced and seasonal, and the menu is updated accordingly.QOpen 06:30–16:00, Sat, public hoildays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. BW Service Station Bamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online. co.za. This popular corner café serves breakfasts, lunches and tea. At lunch the table is laden with a fresh selection of salads, lasagnes or quiches. The granola breakfast is the best in town.QOpen 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30.

Tashas Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684

1781, www.tashas.co.za. This chain is renowned for a vast and excellent menu of fresh food, exceptional salads, and lunch and breakfast dishes served in generous portions. The baked goods are delicious and the juices freshly squeezedQOpen 06:30-21:45 (kitchen closes). Sun, Mon, public holidays kitchen closes 20:45. RR. LBS

The Whippet Coffee Company 34 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 7310, www.thewhippet.co.za. This coffee shop has cool tones and a hipster aesthetic. Try the burger sliders, and the coffee is top-notch. On Friday evenings the after-work crowd swells the place for drinks and tapas.

QOpen 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–22:00, Sat 07:30–15:00.

Kitchen closes at 15:00 weekdays, Sat at 14:00. Closed Sun. 6LEBSW Trieste 40 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3473, www.triestecafe.co.za. Fans of homemade gelati with a South African twist will love this place. It’s also a great sandwich and antipasti stop with strong coffee, hot waffles and a deli range to take home. For atmosphere, the best time to visit is on a summer Sunday afternoon.QOpen 09:00-17:30. Closed Mon. BS Warm & Glad 357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Alban’s Rd),

Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. A popular hangout’s with a small but perfect menu of locally sourced ingredients. Free wi-fi attracts Joburg’s transient media workforce. The music is loud and the adjoining Rad Gallery has a great selection of books. Wine, whisky and craft beer now on the menu.QOpen 07:30–16:30, Sat 08:30–12:30. Closed Sun. Kitchen closes 30 minutes before closing time. ULEBSW

Wolves 4 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 2360, www.wolves.co.za. This cute vintage-chic café is always quietly busy with people at work or nattering over coffee and irresistible red velvet cake. On Thursdays it’s the popular Howl live-music night; on Fridays it’s Beer o’Clock.QOpen 07:30–19:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 until last guest, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. EBW

Contemporary The Leopard 63A 4th Ave (cnr 5th St), Melville, tel. +27

11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Chef Andrea Burgener is the enfant terrible of Joburg cuisine. A veteran restaurateur, even at her young age, she has a quirky take on traditional ingredients. The Leopard is a restaurant for grownups with a small menu of innovative dishes. Lampedusa Pie is her cookbook.QOpen Mon–Thu 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. Corkage R50–70 (pre-2006 vintage R25). Booking essential. RRR. B

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WHERE TO EAT Fish The Fishmonger The Firs, Cnr Cradock and Biermann

Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 2320, fishmongerrosebank.co.za. A casual yet sophisticated choice for seafood and sushi. Try the prawns cooked Portuguese-style. There’s also a selection of salads and sides, and battered hake and chips.

The service is friendly and the restaurant is on a lively piazza in Rosebank. It also has a branch in Illovo.QOpen 12:00–22:00, Sun, Mon 12:00–21:00. Corkage R50. RR–RRR. ULB

Greek Parea Shop 3D, Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8777, www.parea.co.za. Serving the best Greek fare since 1993. The menu includes fresh meze dishes, delicious roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare. From 21.30 on Fri and Sat there is Greek dancing and smashed dishes. South African wines are available. Corkage R50.QOpen 11:00 until late. RR. BS

Indian Al Makka A-4, Shop B, 28 Mint Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27

La Cucina Di Ciro 43 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 5187, www.lacucinadiciro.co.za. Chef Ciro Molinari’s sophisticated Mediterranean restaurant uses seasonal ingredients with lots of fresh herbs and excellent flavours. The menu is small but versatile, and changes regularly. Excellent vegetarian choices as well as fish and meat dishes. In summer book a table on the deck. Corkage R55–R75.QOpen Tue–Sun 08:30–11:30, 12:00–15:00, 18:30–22:00. Closed Mon. RRR. LB Stelle 62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996,

www.stellerestaurant.co.za. Friendly service and a menu full of fresh and seasonal ingredients. Expect to find porcini mushrooms and artichokes when the time is right. The homemade pastas are excellent and meat-eaters should try the fillet with mushrooms. Try a choux pastry selection for dessert.QOpen for dinner from 18:00. Lunch 12:00–15:00 on Fri, Sat, Sun. Closed Mon. Corkage R50. RR. LB

Delis

11 838 2545. For spicy curries there’s this cheap, cheerful alcohol-free spot, likely to stay open later than most. Pakistani, Indian and Chinese dishes with some Western-style fast food thrown in for Fordsburg locals. Stick to the Asian choices and you won’t be disappointed.QOpen 10:00–22:00. Fri, Sat 10:00–23:00. R. S

Bread Basket Shop BC28, Banking Court Level,

Delhi Dharbar 138 11th St, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 883 4407, www.delhidharbar.com. Authentic North Indian cuisine. The high number of Indian expats confirms our view that this is the real thing. Succulent lamb dishes such as the kadhi are particularly popular and order them with plump naan bread to mop up the gravy. Although busy most nights, they are happy to supply takeaways.QOpen 10:30–24:00. RR. LS

Fournos Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, www.fournos.co.za. For chocolate croissants, baked goods, breads, cheeses and other casual meal must-haves. There are plenty of indoor and outdoor tables.Q Open 06:00–18:00, Sat 07:00–16:00, Sun 07:00–14:00. LB

North Indian Coffee House A-5, Cnr Albertina Sisulu

La Marina Foods 7 Platinum Dr, Longmeadow North Business Park, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 3277, www.lamarinafoods.co.za. For specialised epicurean delights such as local pestos, whole smoked salmon and gravlax. If you can't find it, the owner will source it for you.QOpen 08:00–16:30, Sat 08:00–12:00.

Closed Sun. RR. L

Italian

Super Sconto 169 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove,

Rd and Central Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 492 2089.

The bland interior only serves to highlight the excellent spicy curries and tandoori dishes. For a taste sensation order the house drink – a mix of freshly-made lemonade with loads of mint (no alcohol served), and the aloo ghobi cauliflower starter.QOpen 11:00–22:00. R. S

Armacord Osteria Italiana Shop G08, Thrupps Illovo Shopping Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 2287, www.amarcordosteria.com. I talian mama Luciana Righi’s place serves northern Italian home cooking. Try the salad dressed with truffle oil for a flavour sensation, homemade pastas, risotto or veal dishes. A good local wine menu and, unusually, many sold by the glass.

QOpen for lunch Tue–Sun 12:00–14:30, for dinner Tue–Sat 18:00–21:30. Closed Mon and all public holidays. Corkage R65. RR. ULBSW Il Giardino D’Egli Ulivi 44 Stanley Avenue, Milpark, tel.

+27 11 482 4978, www.ilgiardino.co.za. This casual but elegant bistro is set in a courtyard with olive trees. It serves generous and beautifully presented pizzas, pastas and salads, and meat dishes. Live music on Fridays and Sundays.

Service slows on the busiest days.QOpen 12:00–23:00, Sun 11.30–17:00. Closed Mon. Corkage R70–R150. RRR. EB

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Sandton City Mall, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 9053, www.breadbasket.co.za. An exceptional selection of Greek baked delicacies as well as deli goods and excellent sandwiches.Q Open 08:30–19:00, Fri 08:30–20:00, Sat 08:30–18:00, Sun 09:30–15:30. L

tel. +27 11 728 2669. An Italian food emporium, perfect for stocking up on paninis, cheeses and olives.QOpen 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–14:30, Sun 09:00-12:30. L

Halaal and kosher For halaal food head to Fordsburg for the widest range of restaurant choices. For a family restaurant experience and a burger menu there’s the Texakhana Spur in The Zone @ Rosebank or for a Mediterranean menu in a suburban setting there’s Europa, Parkview, The Village Centre, 60 Tyrone Street.

Go for kosher along Long Street in Glenhazel which has a wide selection that includes deli food and bakeries.

Frangelica’s at 5 Long Avenue is one of the most popular spots with a delicious menu of baked goods. For cafe food there’s Food Lovers Market at Norwood Mall, on African Street or get flamegrilled chicken takeout at kosher Nando’s, 27 Aintree Road, Savoy.

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WHERE TO EAT Fine dining Hasmita Nair works as a full-time trader for a large mining company. When she’s not travelling she spends her free time (and money) eating out. Find her blog at www.joziliciousblog.co.za.

For the classiest dinner in town, head to Five Hundred at the Saxon Hotel.

Chef Dave Higgs scooped the 2013 Chef of the Year Award for his innovative take on contemporary cuisine.

At dw eleven-13 Chef Marthinus Ferreira serves classic cuisine with a global twist in a sedate setting. For a lively bistro atmosphere there is Green Peppercorn in a hip Morningside shopping centre, which also houses Signature, renowned for excellent seafood and panoramic views. The decor at The Winehouse was inspired by a painting of Amy Winehouse bought by the owner of 10 Bompas Hotel in France. With a bistro-chic setting, the menu has lots of unfussy French classics. Take a 45-minute drive to visit Mosaic at the Orient Hotel.

Chef Chantel Dartnell is the queen of fine dining. Your plate will look like an artwork and will taste exceptional.

Visit Roots, Forum Homini hotel’s signature restaurant, for a killer Saturday brunch, Sunday lunch and food and wine pairings. Not a classical choice but elegantly rustic, Eatery JHB has a small, seasonal menu, with a French twist. Advanced booking essential for all restaurants.

dw eleven-13 Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr

Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0663, www.dw11-13.co.za.QOpen lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:30–22:00. Sun 12:00-15:00.

Closed Mon. Corkage R75–R150. RRRR. ULW

Eatery JHB Cnr 11th St and Victoria Ave, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 1570, www.eateryjhb.co.za.

QOpen lunch Mon–Fri 12:00–15:00, dinner Mon–Sat 18:00–21:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Five Hundred 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, Sandton, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za.QOpen 18:00–24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RRRR.

Green Peppercorn Shop U47, Morningside Shopping Centre, cnr Outspan and Rivonia Rds, Sandton, tel. +27 87 940 3899, www.greenpeppercorn.co.za.

QOpen 12:00–22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–23:00. RRR. Mosaic at the Orient Francolin Conservation

Area, Elandsfontein, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 371 2903, www.restaurantmosaic.com.QOpen Wed–Sun 12:30–16:00, Tue–Sun 19:00–late. Closed Mon. RRRR.

Roots Letamo Game Estate, R540, Kromdraai, Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 11 668 7000, www. forumhomini.com/rootsrestaurant.QOpen 07:00– 23:30. RRR-RRRR.

Signature Shop U13, Morningside Shopping Centre, Cnr Outspan and Rivonia Rds, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 8888, www.signaturerestaurant.co.za.QOpen 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RRRR. The Winehouse Ten Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd,

Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0282, www.tenbompas. com.QOpen 07:00–12:00. Lunch Mon–Sat 12:00–15:00.

Dinner Mon–Sat 18:00 until late. RR–RRR. UW

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The Winehouse, Dunkeld West

Tra Amici Unit 2, The Rosebank Firestation, Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 83 274 3558. An unfussy daily lunch spot with a fine Italian buffet of salads, lasagnes and the like.

The R50 ‘pavement lunch’ takeaway box is a favourite of nearby office workers. Parking in the Rosebank Mall.QOpen 08:00– 14:00 (lunch buffet starts 12:00). Closed Sat, Sun. R. BS

Mediterranean Crazy Horse 4th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880

7924. Eclectic Mediterranean cuisine with a strong Spanish and Italian leaning. Start with the tapas dishes and take it slow to appreciate the delicate flavours of risotto cakes with a mozzarella centre, and fresh, crumbed sardines with polenta seafood fritters.QOpen 12:00–15:00 and 17:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Corkage R20. RR.

Oliva Bar & Kitchen 178 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 025 5225. A cosy spot serving tapas and a choice of pasta and gnocci dishes. You’ll be forgiven for making a meal of the tapas: parmesan zucchini fingers, lightly fried haloumi cheese, chickpea stew and porcini crostini plus lots of meat and seafood options.QOpen 11:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Corkage R35.

Pigalle Sandton Shop UO9, 4th floor Michelangelo Towers, Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 8899, pigallerestaurants.co.za/sandton. Lavishly decorated, there is a rarefied air despite the large platters on which generous portions of meat dishes, peri-peri Mozambican-style chicken and exceptional seafood are served. An extensive wine list.

QOpen 12:00–16:00 and 18:00–22:30. RRR-RRRR. L

Mexican Mama Mexicana G-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 1982. Two friends spent their spare time devising a Mexican menu for a market stall which became a full-time gig. The décor is minimalist but the flavours maximalist. Wash it down with a local Mexican beer.QOpen 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. Closed Mon. R.

Patisserie Belle’s Patisserie Shop 16, Blubird Shopping Centre,

Athol Oaklands Rd and Cross St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 4474, www.bellespatisserie.co.za. Kosher and halaal home to the best crois-nut in town – try the strawberry flavour.

The red velvet cake is exceptional. Belle’s also makes baked goods to order. Stop in for breakfast, lunch or tea.QOpen Mon 07:30–17:00, Tue-Fri 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–17:00. ULW

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WHERE TO EAT Chateau Gateaux Shop 20a Thrupps Illovo Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 2211, www.chateaugateaux.co.za/patisserie.html. Mouth-watering gateaux, pastries, savoury burekas and gourmet sandwiches are on the menu. Try the chocolate volcano – warmed to make the chocolate ooze. Supremely delicious.QOpen 07:30–18:00, Sun and public holidays 07:30–17:00. TLS Chocola J 167 Beyers Naude Dr, Northcliff, tel. +27 11 782 9050, www.chocolaj.co.za. A variety of the finest artisan-style chocolate, cakes and pastries. The array of choices include Linzertorte and real Black Forest cake.

The brownies are top-notch and you can enjoy a cappuccino with your cake. Chocola J makes cakes to order and offers a catering service.QOpen 07:00–17:30, Sat 07:00–15:30, Sun 07:30–13:00. TULVBS The Patisserie Post Office Centre Illovo, cnr Rudd Rd

and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044. A favourite of ladies who lunch, with its bold pink-and-white stripy walls and small French-style tables with lots of delicate girlie touches.

There is always an awesome display of pastries and cakes, and a scrumptious light-meals menu. Friendly service makes it even cosier.Q Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:30.

Closed Sun. LS

Pizza 86 Public C-3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 157 1823. Chequered cloths, vinyl banquettes and street views, the hip 86 Public super-specialises in pizza. The choice of wine is limited. Order crusty pizza with ample toppings. A good choice for starting a night out in Braamfontein. Restaurant entrance on Melle Street.QOpen 12:00–22:00. RR.

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Delicious on a budget For good-quality food at superreasonable prices, try mall food-court chains Anat (www. anat.co.za) for schwarma and falafel, Kauai (w w w.kauai. co.za) for fresh juices, wraps and smoothies, Nando’s (www. nandos.co.za) for superb flamegrilled chicken (lemon and herb or peri-peri marinade – you decide on the heat), and Steers (www. steers.co.za) for burgers with French fries and barbecue sauce. For street food, head to Ma Bertha’s where the portions are generous and you will return for more of its spicy South African-style stew in a bowl; Vuyo’s in Braamfontein for South African classics served with a choice of salads or ‘starch’; and Burhan’s Butchery in Mayfair where two brothers will serve you an excellent kebab on the pavement.

Vuyo’s C-2, Braamfontein Centre, cnr Stiemens St and Bertha St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1920, www. vuyos.co.za.QOpen 08:00–19:00, Thu-Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 08:00–17:00.

Burhan’s Butchery 79 Church Street, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 11239.QOpen 09:00–18:30, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Ma Bertha’s Kitchen D-5, 26 Loveday Street,

Johannesburg, tel. +27 11 838 3020, http://maberthaskitchen.com.QOpen 06:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

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WHERE TO EAT Andiccio 24 3 Corlett Drv, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603. Popular for free home deliveries, but you can also eat your pizza in-store.

An innovative menu lets you select individuall y priced toppings. The thin-crust pizzas have a base price and then the sky’s the limit. Save space for decadent dessert pizza. Branches in Sandton, Greenside and Randburg.QOpen Sun, Mon 08:00–02:00, Tue–Thu 08:00–04:00. Open 24hrs on Fri and Sat. R–RR. TVBSW Ant Café 11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671.

The popular Ant Café on Melville’s main strip has characterful decor with no space left uncovered by memorabilia and items of curiosity. It has a studenty feel, most evident in the cheesiness of its pizzas. A perfect choice if you like yours that way. Reservations recommended.QOpen 12:00–24:00.

Corkage R45. R. UNBS

Toni’s Cnr Lancaster and Clarence Aves, Craighall

Park, +27 11 447 1318, www.tonipizza.co.za. Pastas and flavourful thin-crust pizzas from a wood oven with some interesting toppings, including a dessert Belgian chocolate calzone that alone deserves a visit. Pizzas can be ordered in two convenient sizes. Try the tricolore topped with crème fraîche, smoked salmon, chives and caviar. Friendly service and free wi-fi.QOpen 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. TBW

Portuguese and Mozambican 1920 Portuguese Ferndale Village, cnr Main Rd and

Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides in an unremarkable shopping strip. Portuguese-themed memorabilia and knick-knacks cover the walls. The kitchen closes super-early, but it’s well worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawn and calamari dishes. A spot for early birds.QOpen for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30). Closed Mon. RR. L

Tea shops For old-school, authentic pearl tea, head to Chinatown; for a contemporary twist with the sweetest flavours, your destination is Greenside.

Happy Me Village Green Shopping Centre, 127

Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 1450, www.happyme.co.za. Chilling. Thinking. Dreaming is the maxim of Happy Me’s hippy-boy mascot, who wears a peace sign and loves Van Morrison music. With its Astro Turf wall, outdoor deck, free wi-fi and loads of happy bubble tea flavours, Happy Me was an instant sensation when it opened in late 2013. Try the peach rooibos with litchi bubbles for a fresh summer flavour.QOpen 07:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 07:00–17:00. LBSW

Simplicity Coffee and Tea 11 Derrick Ave (cnr

Marcia St), Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 616 0228. If you’re on Derrick Ave, squeeze yourself into this tiny teashop owned by Betty Wu in the foyer of apartment block Hillview Heights. Not much English is spoken, so point to what you want on the menu and try the pearl green tea with milk.QOpen weekdays. N

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Parreirinha 9 6th St (Augusta Rd), La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. The hundreds of men’s ties hanging from the ceiling add character to this former police station. The dishes are anything but ordinary.

Fans of garlic and chilli (Mozambican-influenced flavour) will be delighted. Try the bacalhau (cod), prawn cakes, steaks or delicious prawns.QOpen 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. Corkage R50. Reservations required. RRR. TUS Troyeville Hotel H-3, cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Dawe St, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 77 09, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Eat unfussy Mozambican-Portuguese food in this authentically dated hotel in edgy Troyeville. The food is always tasty and the meal worth lingering over. Don’t go for the décor. The place has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians, and also hosts excellent regular book evenings. The pub has its fair share of barflies.

QOpen 10:30–22:00. RR. LEBU

Steakhouses Grillhouse The Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse. co.za. The look is classic New York steakhouse, the service expert and the steaks outstanding. Try the spice-crusted fillet. The buzz is constant, and there’s an incredible selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations are essential and a shuttle service is available to and from certain hotels.QOpen 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L Turn ’n Tender Parktown Quar ter, 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, w w w. turnntender.co.za. This steakhouse brand still grills consistently tasty, basted steaks with the best selection of sides. Tr y th e mieliepap (maize meal) with tomato and onion gravy, a South African staple. Swift and friendly service, gigantic spare-rib platters and a respectable offering for fans of fish and vegetables. Branches in Illovo, Bassonia, Bryanston and Bedfordview.QOpen 11:30–22:00. RRR. Corkage R40.

Kitchen may close early on Sunday. LB

Vegetarian and vegan Fruits and Roots Hobart Corner Shopping Centre, cnr Hobart and Grosvenor Rds, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 2928, www.fruitsandroots.co.za. A daily vegetarian buffet gently puts at ease those with food intolerances. The gluten-free, preservative-free, fresh and healthy food includes an indulgent selection of sweet treats. The adjoining health store stocks a wide range of supplements, nutraceuticals, groceries and household products.QOpen 08:30–16:30, Sat 08:30–14:30, Closed Sun. R. S Greenside Café 34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, www.thegreensidecafe.co.za. A bright interior, friendly staff, patio – plus printed injunctions assuring you that you are doing your bit to save the planet just by eating here – what’s not to like? Try the fresh juices, raw food, wheat-free pizzas or a Shooting Star – a dainty filo-pastry parcel filled with warm chocolate truffle. A great food fix for vegans and vegetarians.QOpen 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. R–RR. BU johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE Joburg has it all – from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that nightlife areas are spread across the city, although this just adds to the variety. Wherever you go, make sure that if you are driving you stay sober or take a taxi. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18.

Bars and pubs Benders Arms D-5, 3 Rissik St, City Centre, tel. +27

11 834 7233. Dating back some 75 years, this pub is a local secret. It has that downbeat, old-fashioned ambience that can only be nurtured over decades. What it lacks in appearance, it more than makes up for in friendliness. The regulars fancy their second-home as the embodiment of the fictional TV bar Cheers.QOpen Mon–Fri from 10:00 until the last guest leaves (licensed until 02:00). Closed Sat, Sun.

Chalkboard Cafe G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City

Centre, tel. +27 100 070 119, www.chalkboardcafe. co.za. Who needs decor when the walls are lined top to bottom with blackboards and even the tables can be scribbled on with chalk? This is a great little spot for drinks before or after a film or gig at the tiny independent cinema Bioscope next door and subsequently a favourite with the area’s intellectual types. More than 30 craft beers to choose from, and a cafe menu during the day. QOpen 08:30–23:00.

Circle Bar Cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank (Crowne Plaza Johannesburg), tel. +27 11 448 3600, www.therosebank.co.za. A great place for groups to get together and enjoy exotic cocktails together in privacy. The tables are arranged in circular booths known as ‘pods’, which can seat up to 10 people. If you would rather perch at the bar, it has more than enough space to get to know the mixologist and his interesting creations.QOpen 15:00–01:00. L Foundry 21 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447

5828, www.foundrycafe.co.za. Part bistro, part craft bar.

If you arrive hungry on a quiet night or during the day, you won‘t be disappointed. Expect tasty food with subtle fusion twists. Favourites include the homemade wild mushroom ravioli and expertly crafted sourdough pizzas. Come on a Friday or Saturday night, however, and the crowds at the bar may prove too much of a distraction. A hip, buzzing bar with great cocktails.QOpen Mon–Sat 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–17:00. W

Gin Restaurant & Bar 12 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 79 524 8303, www.gingin.co.za. Unashamedly grungy and often packed to the rafters, this cavernous barn draws students like moths to a flame with cheap drinks and cheesy pop music. Arrive early to find a table on the airy balcony overlooking the bar and the busy street below. From up there you can also bypass the long queues for the precious few waiters.QOpen 15:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Joburg at night

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife: A quick guide Districts Melville, 7th Street: Joburg’s ultimate barhopping street. The venues change almost as regularly as the weather, but the nightlife in this bohemian student neighbourhood is always thriving. Greenside: A Friday night out in Greenside can be as wild as you want, with students, stag dos and office parties frequently rolling up in their party buses for a big night out. Braamfontein: This is where the cool kids hang out and the party doesn’t finish until the sun rises.

Best rooftop sundowners: The Living Room, San Bar, Elevate Best craft beers: The Griffin, Foundry, Chalkboard Café, Stanley Beer Yard Historic pubs: The Radium Beerhall, Guildhall Pub, Benders Arms, Long Bar Most happening dance floors: Kitchener’s, Taboo, Kong

Darren M. Smith Smart R Media

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JOBURG IN YOUR POCKET Tsogo Sun is the leading hotels, gaming and entertainment company in South Africa.

With a portfolio of 14 casinos and over 90 hotels in South Africa, Africa and Seychelles, the focus at Tsogo Sun is in creating great experiences.

Nowhere is this more clearly defined than at the three Gauteng casino and entertainment destinations: Montecasino, Gold Reef City and Silverstar.

Montecasino Situated in Fourways, the awardwinning Montecasino is Tsogo Sun’s flagship operation. Whether guests are looking to stay at the opulently stylish Palazzo hotel (one of three hotels on the complex), experience the wonder of the Bird Gardens, tap their feet in time to a Broadway musical at the Teatro theatre, or try one of over 40 restaurants on offer, Montecasino is Gauteng’s premier entertainment destination and offers 24/7 entertainment.

Gold Reef City Enjoy a thrilling experience at Gold Reef City in Southern Johannesburg.

Visit the casino, enjoy a choice of restaurants or test-drive one of the thirty adrenaline-filled rides at the

tsogosun.com

Theme Park. With an abundance of adventures, patrons can’t resist being drawn to the squeals of delight.

Level Four Restaurant, which offers classical cuisine with a contemporary twist.

Silverstar The face of entertainment on the West Rand is set to change from August this year with the refurbishment of Silverstar. Once complete, Silverstar will be poised to become THE entertainment capital of the West Rand - with a refurbished casino; six cinemas (all boasting the latest technology 3D screens); a 12lane bowling alley; laser games; several new restaurants including a unique beer garden and a large outdoor village square.

For the business traveller, Tsogo Sun has a host of great hotels in the hub of Sandton. From the Garden Court Sandton City to the Sandton Sun hotel, guests have so much to choose from. From the luxurious to the select, there is a wide array of options that include world-class conference and business facilities, a mouth watering selection of restaurants and FREE high-speed WiFi.

Tsogo Sun hotels Tsogo Sun offers a range of hotels from budget through to luxury. This includes the boutique hotel, 54 on Bath, situated in the lively suburb of Rosebank. With the Gautrain and designer shops, boutiques and entertainment facilities at the Rosebank Mall all within walking distance, you will never need to go far for anything. Guests can also take pleasure in distinctive dining at the

A few minutes away from Sandton is the prestigious Southern Sun Hyde Park Sandton hotel. From its infinity pool and magnificent city views, to its excellent selection of dining choices including the renowned BiCE Ristorante, guests will be dazzled by this hotel.

When visiting Johannesburg, look no further than Tsogo Sun. For more information visit: tsogosun.com

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NIGHTLIFE Lamunu Restaurant and Bar C-2, The Grove, 90 De

Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1910, www. lamunu.co.za. Located in the attractive Grove development, Lamunu is a great place to get a feel for just how successfully this area of the city has been regenerated in recent years.

The wide terrace overlooking the bright piazza is a popular space for urban sundowners while DJs spin house beats.

QOpen daily 07:00–22:00.

Liberation Cafe 5a 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 026 6217. The kind of bar where the nattily dressed staff seem to be enjoying themselves so much you wonder if they actually work there. With its mismatched retro second-hand furniture, reclaimed materials used as quirky light-fittings and the oneroom bar fully open to the street, Liberation is an inviting and mellow space.QOpen Wed–Thu 16:00–02:00, Fri–Sun 12:00–02:00. Closed Mon. Living Room G-4, Main Street Life, 20 Kruger St, Mabo-

Living Room, Maboneng

Great Dane C-3, 5 de Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27

11 403 1136. Next to the popular Kitchener’s Carvery Bar, this is another hot Braamfontein spot. The interior is so dark and the courtyard so crowded you probably won’t notice the many quirky details, such as a hot-dog stand (open all night), a floor plastered in five-cent coins and the DJ booth built with old briefcases. You’ll soon be too busy dancing with your new best friends to care. The music policy depends largely on the DJ, so you could be listening to anything from the latest electro to dancefloor-clearing 1980s power ballads. After 21:00 expect a queue and a cover charge.QOpen Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00.

Guildhall Pub D-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Harrison St (Library Sq Gardens), City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 1770. Dating back to 1888, this is said to be the oldest pub in the city. Located slap bang in the centre, it has successfully survived the ravages of the 1990s and is as strong as ever – largely thanks to the owner and the customers who never seem to leave the place. The original interiors of the shady downstairs bar are fascinating, while the wrought-iron balcony is a great place to linger over tasty Portuguese food.

QOpen daily from 11:00 until last guest leaves.

Jolly Roger 10 4th Ave (corner of 6th St), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 442 39 54. This no-frills pub has been running its successful, no-nonsense formula of beer, pizza, jukebox tunes, live sports and pool for years. There are actually two – but unrelated – Jollys on either side of the street: the Jolly Cool has street-side seating and a giant sports screen, while the Jolly Roger is more of an old-fashioned balconied pub where the older locals hang out. Head upstairs for smoke-free outdoor seating and be prepared for a rowdy Friday night.

QOpen Tue–Sun 12:00–02:00, Mon 16:00–02:00.

Kitchener’s Carvery C-3, Cnr Juta and de Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166. The cool kids and creative types hang out in this formerly grand colonial hotel.

Even the serious hipsters can’t change the welcoming atmosphere. By day it’s a quiet pub; by night DJs get the crowds moving to soul, funk and electro. Saturdays get super-busy with tipsy visitors from the nearby market. Cover charges may apply after 21:00 on Fri and Sat.QOpen Mon–Wed 10:00–21:00, Thu 10:00–02:00, Fri-Sat 10:00–04:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. E Johannesburg In Your Pocket

neng, City Centre, tel. +27 61 402 2843, livingroomjozi. co.za. More of a café-bar than a late-night venue, Friday evenings and Sunday afternoons are when the fifth-floor rooftop fills for sundowners against a spectacular urban backdrop. This place is a little garden in the sky, with exotic plants snaking over eco-friendly furniture. The food and music match the bar’s aesthetics. Peruse the fully organic menu and Goa trance and folk music.QOpen Thu–Sat 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Mon–Wed by appointment only.

Long Bar C-2, Cnr Melle and Jorissen Sts (entrance on

Melle St), Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 5611, www. devonshirehotel.co.za. With no windows and just a simple sign above the door, you can be forgiven for thinking this is not a place to investigate further. Have no fear – the dark and distinctly dated interiors are welcoming, with seats taken by students from the nearby university shirking their studies in favour of beer, sports fans glued to the screen, and other perfectly friendly folk. Non-smokers take note – you’re likely to be the only one not puffing away here.QOpen 11:00 until the last guest leaves.

Lucky Bean 16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, www.luckybeantree.co.za. A reliably chilled bar and restaurant popular for its South African dishes as well as its broad vegetarian selection. The bright and inviting bar/ lounge area, which spreads onto the pavement, fills up early for weekend sundowners when DJs play the perfect blend of world music, jazz, soul and funk. Lucky Bean also hosts live music performances.QOpen 11:00 until the last guest leaves. Closed Mon. E Mamma’s Shebeen 18 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 84 380 3451. Colourful mismatched furniture, floral 1970s wallpaper, latrine blocks built from corrugated iron, and posters of Steve Biko, Mamma’s rocks a fun take on retro township style. More modern entertainments complete the scene, with flatscreen TVs and a large dance floor where DJs play popular chart hits. On the street terrace, sample wacky house cocktails like the Sowetan Toilet (Amarula, chocolate and banana liqueurs) or strangely coloured shooters. The staff are charming.QOpen 10:00–23:00. N Mish Mash 20 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11

026 2915. Pretty fairy-light garlands, pot plants and blonde wood cladding can’t disguise the fact that this beer garden is in fact a car park but still a great hangout and flirting spot.

Despite selling ludicrously cheap drinks (you can get an entire bottle of wine here for R50), this is a much more chilled venue than most on the Greenside strip.QOpen Tue–Fri 16:00–02:00, Sat 11:30–02:00, Sun 11:30–22:00.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

NIGHTLIFE News Café 24 Central, cnr Gwen Lane and Fredman Drv, Sandton, tel. +27 11 452 8770, www.newscafe.co.za.

This after-work drinks venue for Joburg’s well-off movers, shakers and money-makers is a lively cocktail bar located right in the heart of Sandton’s financial district. The huge street terrace is the place to be seen, although you need to arrive early to grab a seat. Inside the décor is all mirrors and chandeliers, which perfectly offset the designer sunglasses, Champagne bottles and flashy jewellery of the bar’s patrons.

Upbeat funk and house music plays solidly in the background.

QOpen Mon–Fri 07:30–02:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–02:00.

Ratz 11 7th Street, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9965, www.ratzbar.co.za. Fun and friendly, Ratz is one of the mainstays of the ever-changing Melville bar strip and it’s clear these guys know how to maintain the right party vibe.

The music is a gay-friendly, danceable mix of 1980s pop, rock and disco, the staff make you feel like friends, and the cocktails are killer. Early in the evening it’s a good place for warm-up drinks; come midnight the tables are cleared and the dancing commences. Karaoke nights and student discounts during the week.QOpen 16:00–02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00.

San Deck Sandton Sun Hotel, cnr Alice and 5th Sts,

Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5147, www.sandtonsun.com.

The steady construction of new tower blocks in Sandton’s business district means the panoramic view is not what it once was, but that doesn’t detract from this being the biggest, most elaborate rooftop bar in Joburg. Fire pits, hanging chairs, sofas and a dining area are joined by dozens of trees, sun loungers and even a small swimming pool.QOpen 06:30–23:00. L

Stanley Beer Yard 44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stan-

ley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Located in a pretty courtyard, this is one of the city’s most attractive beer gardens. Under the trees long tables are filled with people enjoying afternoon drinks and live music from local folk singers. Inside it has a gorgeous, hunting-lodge style interior with leather armchairs, antique curios and a huge log fire. The bar serves 10 types of craft beer and has a small German-inspired menu. Drinks and meals must be ordered at the bar.QOpen Tue–Thu 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. EBW

The Baron 24 Central, cnr Gwen Lane and Fredman Drv, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 8435, www.thebaron. co.za. Popular with Sandton’s moneyed youngsters and financial-services types in search of fun close to the office, this large bar is as cheesy as they come and not a night goes by without Toto’s ‘Africa’ finding its way onto the playlist. In the run-up to the weekend patrons make their way there en masse to get drunk, dance and hopefully pick up someone special for the night. The spacious dancefloor, hemmed in by a glass wall, is open to the elements so you’re free to smoke.

It also has a large street terrace where you can eat meals late into the night.QOpen 12:00–01:30 (bar may close earlier if not busy). LW The Griffin 1 Corlett Dr (Illovo Junction), cnr Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za.

Inspired by the British fashion for gastropubs, The Griffin deals in craft beers, posh pub food and fancy-looking wallpaper.

Craft-beer fans will be delighted to find more than 30 different brews, seven of them on tap. Friendly and attentive staff and music you can actually talk over provide even more reason to stay late for the crowds of boisterous yet mature young professionals who flock here. In true British style they do an excellent Sunday lunch roast.QOpen Tue–Sun 12:00–01:00.

Closed Mon. W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Randlords, Braamfontein

The Office Cocktail and Tapas Bar 10 Gleneagles

Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 023 9863. Greenside’s most upmarket bar is aimed at designer-clad young singletons in search of classy cocktails and glamorous atmosphere. The slick, white bar is barely visible on weekends as noisy crowds fill the narrow bar area. As the place fills the service standards plummet. Not recommended if talking is what you had in mind.

QOpen Tue–Sat 16:00–02:00, Sun 14:00–22:00.

The Radium Beerhall 282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange

Grove, tel. +27 11 728 38 66, www.theradium.co.za.

Although the area surrounding this characterful Victorian pub may be edgy (not in a good way), it’s well worth the effort to get to this historic local institution. First opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium specialises in mouth-watering Portuguese food and live jazz and blues.

The shabby interior only adds to the unique charm and the diverse bunch of regulars propping up the bar wouldn’t have it any other way. Bookings are essential on nights when there is live music (check their website for the latest gig schedules).

QOpen Mon–Fri 10:00–23:30, Sat 11:00 until the last guest leaves. Admission R50–R80 on some performance nights. E

Zebra Inn G-4, 252 Albertina Sisulu Rd, cnr Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, +27 82 494 7763. Probably the coolest late-night bar you can find in the city and really worth seeking out if you are hanging around Maboneng. After being buzzed up to the first floor you’ll find yourself in a large limegreen room completely covered in the taxidermied heads of close to 100 African animals. It’s cheap and grungy up there, and the motley crew of locals propping up the beach-hut-style bar, playing pool and sinking money into the jukebox couldn’t be more removed from the trendy, artsy types you find two blocks over on Main Street.QOpen every day from 12:00.

Stanley Beer Yard, Milpark

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NIGHTLIFE Casinos

Live music and jazz

Emperor’s Palace 64

Amuse Café 34 5th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, tel. +27

Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, w w w.emperor spalace. co.za. Inspired by the famous Las Vegas casinos, Emp eror’s is a Romanthemed venue not afraid of showing off its opulent side.

A grand colonnade of fountains greets you before you enter the marbled and frescoed interiors. There are over 1 700 slots and close to 70 tables as well as exclusive high-roller areas and a hold ‘em poker room. Other entertainment options include the Theatre of Marcellus and the Odeon Showbar.

QOpen 24/7.

Gold Reef City Northern Parkway, Ormonde, tel. +27 11

248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za. One of Gauteng’s premier entertainment complexes, Gold Reef City is an intimate gambling experience with close to 100 slot machines and 15 gaming tables, as well as private lounge areas. Inspired by Joburg, the City of Gold, the casino is dripping with sparkling golden trimmings. It has two theatres, various restaurants and a theme park across the road.QOpen 24/7.

Montecasino Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7000, www.montecasino.co.za. The huge entertainment and casino complex is designed to resemble an Italian Tuscan village. It has over 1 700 slot machines and a whopping 70 tables, as well as a private lounge and a smoking casino. Entertainment options include two theatres, a highly rated comedy club, cinema, bird gardens, and bowling and arcade games. Throughout 2014 the famous dining-theatre-acrobatics spectacular, Madam Zingara, is in residence. Gautrain buses leave from outside the bird gardens, shuttling visitors to the Sandton Gautrain station.QOpen 24/7.

Clubs Kong Cnr Jan Smuts and Tyrwhitt Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0993, www.kongsa.co.za. This hugely popular nightclub is unashamed about announcing its intentions, boasting ‘Kong caters to the elite and sexy’. If that sounds like you, you may well fit in here with the city’s rich and beautiful set. Friday is ‘urban’ night with R&B and hip hop, while Saturdays are for fans of dance and electro.QOpen Fri–Sat 21:00–05:00.

Sankayi 90 Degrees Shopping Centre, cnr Kelvin Dr

and Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 83 859 5826, www. sankayi.com. A glamorous lounge and nightclub with a glitzy pan-African clientele. Mixing a range of hot African house, R&B and Latino sounds, it is very popular with the city’s well-off African expat community. This is an upmarket spot with a strict dress code to match, so dig out your sexiest, swankiest outfit, and leave your shorts and sandals at home.QOpen: Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu 20:00–04:00, Fri–Sat 21:00–04:00, Sun 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Taboo 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za. A swanky Sandton nightclub which lives by the motto that ‘it’s impossible to overdo luxury’. It goes without saying that you need to be impressively dressed to pass the velvet rope into the dark and slinky interiors. Once there you’re surrounded by the pumping sound of top local and international DJs. It has a chic deck and plush lounge areas.QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

84 555 5252, www.facebook.com/pages/Amuse-Café.

This quirky little bar in the cute suburb of Linden hosts live music from local bands Thursdays through Saturdays. The music policy is based purely on showcasing local artists rather than specific styles – anything from soulful girls with acoustic guitars or groovy new afro-jazz stars playing to a packed out room to serious teenagers attempting progressive rock in front of a handful of diehard fans. It’s a long way to come for live music, so check out the lineup on the bar’s Facebook page in advance.QOpen Tue–Sun 12:00–24:00. E

Bassline B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel.

+27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za. Bassline is a legendary inner-city live-music venue which has seen every South African legend of the past 15 years grace its stage. The statue in front of the club of one of the country’s biggest stars, the late Brenda Fassie, and is testament to the importance of this venue in South African music history. Today the club still prides itself as a champion of hot new local talent. Well-known for its jazz and blues, you’ll also find funk, afro-beat and even slam-poetry on the line-up.QOpen only for performances.

Check the Bassline website for the gig schedule.

’Fro Music Lounge 2 7th St Melville, tel. +27 78 856 8782, www.facebook.com/ FroMusicLounge. A brilliant bar that is wholeheartedly dedicated to pushing the agenda of getting people together over drinks and great local bands.

As the name suggests, there’s an emphasis on African sounds and, if you’re lucky, you could Darren M. Smith find yourself holed up long into Melville the night listening to some of the best new bands the city has to offer. When the bands aren’t playing this is a chilled hangout for an easier-going night amid the bustle of the city’s most popular bar street.

QOpen 12:00–24:00. Closed Mon. Katzy’s The Firs, cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.katzys.co.za.

One of Joburg’s most highly rated jazz bars, Katzy’s is a slinky, stylish and all-round sophisticated joint recalling the atmosphere of an old Chicago jazz club. Order one of their many fine malt whiskies and a vintage cigar, sink into a big leather couch and enjoy the sounds of some great local jazz.

There are gigs most nights, although it is worth checking their online schedule to see what’s coming up.QOpen Mon–Sat 12:00–24:00. E Pata Pata G-4, Main Street Life, 286 Fox St, Maboneng,

City Centre, tel. +27 73 036 9031. By day Pata Pata is an informal café-style restaurant. Inspired by the 1960s township jazz scene it is filled with eclectic second-hand bric-a-bac and big vintage sofas, perfect for sinking into with your Ethiopian coffee. At night an abundance of candles and live music from funky afro-jazz bands creates a simultaneously upbeat and romantic atmosphere ideal for enjoying cocktails with friends or a bottle of wine with someone special.QOpen 08:00–23:00. E

Go to johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for more live music, concerts and festivals johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE Historical places of interest, excellent museums, art galleries with contemporary art that is putting South Africa on the global map – the city is worth exploring. From history to cuisine and street art, local tour guides can let you in on Joburg’s otherwise best-kept secrets. See our special feature on Chinese Joburg for something out of the ordinary.

Museums Apartheid Museum Cnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. + 27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org. This extraordinary museum brings to life the horrors of apartheid. The fascinating story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements. It is not to be missed, but children younger than 10 should not visit. The museum is located in the Gold Reef City Casino complex.QTue–Sun 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: R65 for adults, R50 pensioners and students, school-going children R20. UBK Constitution Hill D-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www.constitutionhill.org.za. The buildings of Constitution Hill reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th-century South Africa while also showcasing the country’s bright future in the modern Constitutional Court. The large complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. In addition to the extensive permanent exhibits, the complex also hosts regular art and photography exhibitions and lectures, and has an impressive art collection.

The Old Fort At the centre of the Constitution Hill complex, it was built in 1893 by President Paul Kruger as a fortress to protect Joburg from the threat of British invasion and also to keep watch over the miners flocking to the growing settlement. Following the end of the Anglo-Boer war the fort became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here when he was arrested in 1962. His cell is now part of a permanent exhibition. Make sure you take a walk around the fort ramparts for a fantastic view of the skyscrapers of the City Centre.

Women’s Gaol The grand-looking brick buildings were built in 1909 and held black and white female prisoners (and often their babies too) in separate sections. During apartheid many major political activists such as Albertina Sisulu, Ruth First and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela were imprisoned here in humiliating conditions and subjected to months of solitary confinement. The museum includes many moving testimonies from former prisoners, detailing their struggles behind bars and the shockingly absurd reasons for their arrests.

Number 4 The notorious prison block is not for the fainthearted and wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience. It was used from 1904 until 1983 as a prison for ‘native men’ whose crimes ranged from political activism and communist party membership to murder, robbery, petty crime and, most commonly, the infringement of the racist passbook laws. Before leaving, pause at the humbling exhibit on Mahatma Gandhi, who was imprisoned here in 1906 for his political activism.

Constitutional Court The court was opened in 2003 and was built using bricks from the old awaiting-trial prison block.

The bright, inviting and modern building is filled with hundreds of South African artworks, which alone are worth a visit.

Visitors are allowed to attend court hearings and visit the court chamber.QMon–Fri 08:30–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00.

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WHAT TO SEE MOAD G-4, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.moadjhb.com. The first new museum in the city in years the Museum of African Design in Maboneng is housed in a cavernous industrial building. Its focus is on contemporary African art, fashion and culture and it brings together a fascinating mix of artists and thinkers. A cultural laboratory rather than a collecting museum, the space also hosts events.

QOpen Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00, Thu until 23:00. Closed Mon. Admission R20. Free for children, students. Thurs free to all.

Museum Africa B-4, Mary Fitzgerald Sq, Newtown, tel.

Constitutional Court, Braamfontein Constitutional Court Trust

Ditsong National Museum of Military History 20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www. ditsong.org.za. The fascinating displays here illustrate technological developments in warfare. In two Bellman Hangars these cover key events including the Anglo-Zulu war, the Anglo-Boer war, South Africa’s role in the first and second world wars, and resistance movements against apartheid.

Climb into the military vehicles for an even more interactive experience.QMon–Sun 09:00–16:30. Admission: Adults R25, senior citizens and children R15. UL Liliesleaf Farm 7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za. In the early 1960s this idyllic farm in Rivonia (now part of the suburb of Sandton) was the secret hideout and meeting place of prominent anti-apartheid leaders such as Nelson Mandela, Walter Sisulu, Bram Fischer, Joe Slovo and Govan Mbeki. It was here that the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated. Interactive exhibits help you understand the lives of these incredible characters. Don’t miss the customised overland safari bus parked that was used to smuggle weapons into South Africa.

Give yourself a few hours in this outstanding museum.QOpen daily 09:00–16:00. Admission R60, children 8–17 years old R30, under 7 free. Guided tours from R110. ULKW Cradle of Humankind and Maropeng R400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za. This cave-strewn area (58km from Joburg), now a World Heritage Site, is where some of the most important hominid fossil discoveries in the world have been made. Prehistoric fossils continue to be found here. The exhibition sites are spread across the countryside, and the main ones are full of information, making it worth a day-long visit. The striking Maropeng Museum is designed to resemble a burial mound and is the main visitors’ centre.

It takes an interactive approach to the history of life, from the big bang to the evolution of humans, the discovery of fire and the spread of people across the continents. Tour the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of Little Foot, Mrs Ples and others were found. The caves include a great exhibition on geology and evolution, which also looks at the development of other animals such as the sabre-toothed cats which once inhabited the area.QOpen 09:00–17:00. Tours of the caves every 30 minutes. Admission to Maropeng R145, students R85, kids under 14 R82. Sterkfontein Caves R150, students R85, kids under 14 R88. Combination ticket (Sterkfontein Caves and Maropeng), R215, kids under 14 R155. Kids under four get in free. ULK Johannesburg In Your Pocket

+27 11 833 5624. This impressive old building was once the city’s fruit and vegetable market. Sadly, nowadays there’s an air of neglect inside the vast space, and the museum has struggled to maintain some of its permanent exhibitions. That said, they do regularly host some excellent temporary art and history exhibitions which alone are usually worth a visit. Permanent displays include the origins and customs of the different ethnic groups that make up South Africa, a history of political cartoons and a small exhibit on Gandhi’s time in Joburg. The fifth floor is dedicated to an astonishing photography collection.

QOpen 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory 107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela. org. The Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory was founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive and centre for the continuation of the work of the Nelson Mandela Foundation. It focuses on the life and times of Mandela and his lifelong dedication to social justice. An exhibit outlines his life and the context of his struggle, complimented by many personal artefacts such as his letters from prison, personal photographs and his Nobel Peace prize. The centre is two blocks from Mandela’s final home on 4th Street.QVisits by appointment only. LU Origins Centre B-2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins. org.za. From artist Walter Oltmann’s exceptional wire sculpture at the entrance to the design of each exhibit, this must-see museum showcases the origins of humankind. It explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing their emergence along an 80 000-year-long path to its African source. The exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art and paleoanthropological, archaeological and genetic materials, including ancient tools and artefacts of spiritual significance. It throws a fascinating light on San culture and rituals. The museum can be viewed in 90 minutes or a few hours. There’s a gift store worth a visit.QOpen Mon–Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. Admission: adults R60, children under 12 (accompanied by an adult) R35. Guide fee R180 (minimum 10 people). ULK SAB World of Beer C-4, 15 President St (Cnr Gerard

Sekoto St), Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 49 00, www. worldofbeer.co.za. A light-hearted, multi-sensory experience tracing the history of all things beer, from the Egyptians to the present day. Highlights include a crisp, cold one in a replica of a 19th-century South African pub. Tours last approximately 80 minutes (including drinking stops) and leave every half hour. Over 18s only.QOpen 10:00–18:00 (last tour 16:30). Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: R65 (R60 with a City Sightseeing Bus ticket), Students R55.

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WHAT TO SEE Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre 73 Toby

St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130, www.sophiatown.net. Showcasing Sophiatown photography from the 1950s and cultural icons from that age, including singer Dolly Rathebe and musician Hugh Masekela. Hosts regular temporary exhibitions. The centre is also linked to the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre (www.trevorhuddleston.org).

QOpen 10:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–13:00 or by appointment.

Closed Fri, Sun. Photo exhibitions mostly free of charge.

Heritage exhibition and guide R35 per adult, R15 for children.

Guided walking tours R70. Live music events R100. TU

Workers’ Museum B-4, 52 Jeppe St, Newtown, tel.

+27 11 336 9190, w w w.joburg.org.za/museumsgalleries/workers-museum. The compound was built in 1913 for male African migrant workers employed by the nearby power station. It originally housed 300 men in just nine rooms, and was still in use in the early 1980s. The museum uses photographs and personal testimonies to illustrate not only the daily hardships, dangers and humiliations faced by migrant workers, but also the feelings of homesickness, fear and guilt they experienced at having left their families behind.

QOpen 09:00–16.30. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Places of interest The city is forever changing and people from all walks of life continue to leave their mark on this very cosmopolitan landscape, meaning that much of the most important history and culture is found not in museums but on the city streets.

Whether you are looking for the latest hipster neighbourhoods, pan-African cuisine, inspiring modern architecture, gold-rush mining history, majestic public buildings or spectacular mosques and temples, Joburg has it all.

Apartheid Museum, Gold Reef City

Diagonal Street C-4/5, Runs diagonally between Sauer

St and Ntemi Piliso St, City Centre. On busy Diagonal Street with its traders and blanket shops, colour and bustle you get a rare sense of an earlier Joburg. Architect Helmut Jahn’s building at number 11 resembles a multifaceted diamond. This street was the heart of Joburg’s early gold rush and developed into a racially mixed area where trading continued despite proscriptive laws. A mix of architectural styles characterise the area, including an example of 1930s flatiron design. It is a great place to buy fabrics, examine traditional artefacts and see public art. Don’t flash your valuables.

Carlton Centre Roof of Africa E-4/5, Carlton Centre, 150 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 308 13 31. Despite being built in the 1970s, the 223m colossus is still Africa’s tallest skyscraper. Like the area around it, it no longer commands the sense of prestige it once did, but the view from the 50th floor remains unrivalled. The 360-degree Roof of Africa viewing level is a great place to get a perspective on the city’s incredible scale and many neighbourhoods.

The entrance kiosk and lifts are tricky to find. Head down the escalators in the Carlton Mall (at the centre of the building) in the direction of the music store and look out for the Roof of Africa logo at the head of a corridor to your left.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Admission R15, children under 10, R10.

Cenotaph D-4, Cnr of Harrison St and Albertina Sisulu Rd, City Centre. Situated in Beyers Naudé Square (named after a cleric and leading anti-apartheid activist) between the Joburg Public Library and the City Hall, the cenotaph was inaugurated in 1926 as a memorial to South Africans who joined the Allied Forces and lost their lives in the first world war. It is a replica of the Edwin Luytens-designed monument in Whitehall, London. Inscriptions were added in 1947 to honour those who died in the second world war. In 1996 the City of Joburg rededicated the monument to the memory of those who died in the struggle against apartheid.

Chancellor House C-5, Cnr Fox St and Gerard Sekoto

St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. This smart little museum with all of its exhibits displayed in the windows to passers-by was once the office of the first black law firm in the city – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys. From 1952 to 1956 this was a thriving law practice helping to fight apartheid’s draconian restrictions on black life in the city. Across from Chancellor House is Shadow Boxing (see Public Art).

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WHAT TO SEE Little Addis E-4, Jeppe and Troye St, City Centre. Known

informally as ‘Little Addis’ or ‘Little Ethiopia’, this is the city’s Ethiopian district, a few buildings on Jeppe Street near the old Joburg Sun Hotel (now boarded up). It houses a dizzying array of restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops, barbers, music kiosks and plenty of posters of the Emperor Hailie Selassie. A fascinating neighbourhood. For lunch, head to Netsi’s on the top floor of the original Medical Arts Building, now Haile Selassie Building. For tours of this area, see Ancient Secrets in Tours.

Joburg Public Library, 1935

Collection Koopman

Fashion Kapitol F-4, 130 Pritchard St, off Troye St, New Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 333 7372, www.fashiondistrict.org.za. Follow the stylish young things to this rejuvenated city square that is a pan-African fashion and lifestyle centre. Truly the fashion capital of Africa, Fashion Kapitol is located on the site of the city’s early garment industry. The 20 or so demarcated city blocks around it house fashion stores, fabric shops, a college plus loads of small manufacturers. On Saturdays head to the Fashion Kapitol Market, a platform for emerging fashion designers and people in the arts. Watch fashion shows presented by the nearby college, eat at the Fashion Shack, buy vintage items at Fruitcake Vintage or shop for authentic wax-print shweshwe fabric at Studio 109, a superb fabric shop and haberdashery. Joburg Places conducts excellent tours of the area (see Tours).QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, closed Sun. UBK Johannesburg City Hall D-4, Cnr Rissik St and President St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 375 5555. Johannesburg City Hall, built in 1915, is a rare gem of colonial architecture.

Designed in grand Edwardian style, it now is a national monument. The space in front of City Hall used to be a gathering place for civil and political protests. Worth a pop-in if you are in the area. Entrance on President Street.QFree admission.

Johannesburg Public Library C-4, Cnr President and Paul Sauer Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 022 5174.

Located on the edge of Beyers Naudé Square, this stately building with its marble columns, silver door handles and Venetian teak floors reopened in 2012 after extensive renovations (funded by the City of Joburg and Carnegie Corporation of New York). With architecture in the Italianate style, this is one of the most prominent structures built in the city in the 1930s. It was also the first South African public library to admit all races – from 1974. The library has 1.5 million items, including a vast music collection, with around 700 000 books and lots of great spaces to explore.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

Maboneng G-4, Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre. What started as the redevelopment of an industrial building on Fox and Main Streets is today a shiny jewel of inner-city redevelopment. Maboneng, which means ‘place of light’ in Sotho, is a hip lifestyle district spanning a number of blocks, all created by one property development company, which now includes art galleries; restaurants; boutiques; the Sunday Market on Main; a cinema, The Bioscope; a backpackers hostel, Curiocity; and Joburg’s newest museum, the Museum of African Design. This is definitely the place to play in the city.

Main Street Mining District C-5/D-5, Main St, City

Centre. Main Street is the heart of the City of Gold’s mining history and a walk along its many pedestrianised blocks from the Carlton Centre all the way to Chancellor House is a great way to get a feel for the inner-city’s rich mining past.

Situated all along the street are various relics from the early gold-rush days such as covered wagons, stamp presses and headgear from old mineshafts. Towards Chancellor House you will find the headquarters of many of the world’s biggest mining companies – the beautiful facade of Anglo American is a particular highlight. On weekdays Main Street is filled with office workers using its many street cafés. The area is safe, clean and pleasant.

Mosque Nizamiye (Nizamiye Complex) Le Roux

Ave, Midrand, tel. +27 79 029 0488, www.nizamiye. co.za. The biggest mosque in the southern hemisphere, Nizami ye Masjid opened in 2012 and is modelled on a 16th-century Turkish mosque.

With its 21 small domes, marble columns and rich mosaics, it is an architectural site to marvel at. Th e complex h ouses a school, clinic, Turkish supermarket and an exceptional restaurant, Ottoman Palace.

For a fascinating insight into the history of the mosque and Ottoman architecture, call to book a tour with Ahmed Koban.

Nan Hua Buddhist Temple 27 Nan Hua St, Bronkhorstspruit, en.nanhuatemple.org. The magnificent Nan Hua Temple was donated by Taiwanese Buddhists when Taiwan had close ties with South Africa and is the largest Buddhist temple in the southern hemisphere. It is located in Bronkhorstspruit (about 45 minutes’ drive to the north-east of Joburg). Open for lunch on Sundays from 12:00–13:00.

QOpen 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon.

Peacemakers Museum, Sandton

Nelson Mandela Bridge C-3, Bertha St, Braamfontein.

Completed in 2003, the bridge is the city’s most impressive new landmark, especially at night when it lights up with the colours of the rainbow. At 284m long, it is the biggest cablestayed bridge in southern Africa. The bridge links Braamfontein to Newtown, and recalls Nelson Mandela bridging the divides created by apartheid. Drive and don’t walk across it.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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WHAT TO SEE Nirox Sculpture Park 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 82 854 6963, www.niroxarts.com. The sculpture park is set in 15 magnificent hectares that form part of an extensive nature reserve in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. The Nirox Foundation offers an international artists residency programme and hosts a number of events, including an annual sculpture fair in May. The park can only be visited during events, so check the website first.

Peacemakers Museum Nelson Mandela Square,

West St, Sandton, tel. +27 79 545 2703, www.peacemakersmuseum.co.za. A small museum dedicated to the manywinners of the Nobel Peace Prize. The exhibition begins by providing a full list of all winners to date before moving on to focus on the work of South Africa’s four Nobel laureates: Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, F.W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela. Visitors are invited to make and leave a paper dove as a symbol of dedication to the winners’ values of peace, justice, equality and freedom for all. The museum can be found behind Montego Bay restaurant to the right of the Nelson Mandela statue.

QOpen 11:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–18:00. Admission free.

Rand Club D-5, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 11

870 4260, www.randclub.co.za. Historic members-only club founded in 1887, which harks back to a bygone era of British colonial style and fabulously rich mining magnates.

Nowadays the club is open to all genders and races (as long as they obey the smart dress code), and hosts regular nonmember events. It’s worth keeping an eye out for these for the chance to glimpse the building’s fabulous interiors. Highlights include the well-stocked gun room, the beautiful entrance hall with its impressive stained-glass dome and grand staircase, the vast mahogany-panelled bar where beer is still served in tankards, and the billiards room which is decorated with the taxidermied heads of dozens of African animals.

Satyagraha House

Satyagraha House 15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. From 1908–1909 Gandhi lived in this house with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, a German-Jewish architect, devoting his time to living a simple, meditative life and developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and nonviolent civil disobedience). The house is now a guest house and museum dedicated to Gandhi’s principles, and exhibits various photos, correspondence, journal entries and beautifully displayed inspirational quotes. Overnight guests have the chance to book meditation classes and enjoy home-cooked vegetarian meals.QOpen 10:30–16:00. Admission R40. LW

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WHAT TO SEE Public art People who live in Joburg rarely extol its beauty. Mostly they point out that it is a city without an ocean and, until the Nelson Mandela Bridge was built, one without any landmarks that aren’t communication towers or apartment blocks. And those are the polite remarks. But over the past few years an impressive and growing number of public artworks have been installed. The City’s splurge is directed at creating social cohesion and recognising the different communities that contribute to making Joburg the city it is today. Tour companies like Past Experiences (see Tours) offer guided public-art walks.

Albertina and Walter Sisulu C-5, Intersection of

Diagonal St, Ntemi Piliso St and Albertina Sisulu St, City Centre. These two great South Africans are immortalised in a clay sculpture by Marina Walsh installed in a small square on the historic Diagonal Street in 2009. The artwork depicts the couple sitting holding hands, commemorating their enduring love for each other and the country. Both were prominent anti-apartheid activists, and Walter spent 25 years in prison on Robben Island, with his great friend, Nelson Mandela.

The site is across the street from where Walter once had his real-estate office.

Angel of the North D-2,

Cnr Queen and Kotze Sts, Hillbrow. The 5m-tall concrete winged angel, installed in 2010, stands near Constitution Hill, welcoming all to Hillbrow. It has been called a miniature version of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer.

Artist Winston Luthuli says it ‘serves as a kind of sentinel, and is incongruous with what one might expect to find in this crime and grime-ridden part of Joburg’.

Mandela sculpture Shadow Boxing C-5,

Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. In 2013 sculptor Marco Cian fan elli return e d Nelson Mandela as a public figure to Johannesburg and specifically to the places he inhabited in the 1950s.

Almost six metres tall, ‘Shadow Boxing’ towers between Chancellor House – once the home of Mandela and Tambo Attorneys, the first black law practice in Johannesburg (see Places of Interest) – and the Johannesburg Magistrates’ Court. Mandela was an avid boxer, and the sculpture was inspired by a photograph of him, taken by Drum magazine’s Bob Gosani in 1952. Mandela was to spend much time in court, both as an attorney and as the accused, and in the boxer‘s stance the sculpture conveys both the defensive power and the possibility of a powerful strike. His words are etched across the concrete plinth: ‘In the ring, rank, age, colour, and wealth are irrelevant.’

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Brenda Fassie B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown.

Before social media and celebrity-obsessed magazines, Brenda Fassie (1964–2004) was one of South Africa’s biggest home-grown music stars and the original Bad Girl. She was a true pop idol whom Time magazine dubbed the Madonna of the Townships and whose songs are still heard everywhere.

Artist Angus Taylor’s life-size bronze sculpture (2007) of her was commissioned by the Sunday Times Heritage Project.

Eland C-2, Cnr Bertha and Ameshoff Sts, Braamfontein.

Clive van den Berg’s 2007 sculpture of a giant antelope garlanded with Highveld plants greets visitors at one of the gateways to the inner city. The sculpture evokes the natural environment that has been taken over by a growing metropolis.

Firewalker C-4, Cnr Simmonds and Sauer Sts, City Centre. Along nearby Diagonal Street women still carry lit braziers on their heads, selling sheep’s heads or mielies (corn cobs).

Firewalker (2009), by William Kentridge and Gerhard Marx, is an 11-m-tall sculpture that pays homage to these women and the everyday activities of city dwellers. Its position just off Queen Elizabeth Bridge makes it difficult to view, and walking alone in the area is not advised. Drive-past slowly.

Governor’s House Trees D-1, Governor’s House, Queen’s Rd, Hillbrow. Americo Guambe’s exquisite sculptures (2010) were carved from dead trees found in the area. They stand behind the house built around 1908 for the governor of the Old Fort prison. Tree I depicts a young girl looking towards Hillbrow, while Tree II is a sculpture of a boy pointing towards the city.

Mahatma Gandhi D-5, Gandhi Sq, between Rissik and Fox Sts, City Centre. Tinka Christopher’s bronze statue (2003) of a young Mohandas Gandhi shows him in the guise of a lawyer in a part of the city once known as Government Square, home to the city’s law courts. Today it is the site of a bus terminus. Gandhi came to South Africa in 1893. Over time he became active in the politics of resistance, calling for Indian and Chinese people (classified as non-white) to burn their pass (identity) books. He was tried, convicted and sentenced for this. He left for India in 1914, having shaped and established his policy of passive resistance to oppression.

Paper Pigeons C-5, Intersection of Main Reef and

Albertina Sisulu Rds, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. Three three-metre-high grey steel pigeons, created by Gerhard and Maja Marx (2009), resemble origami shapes. Tour guide Jo Buitendach remarks that ‘most statues have pigeons that sit and poop on them; these pigeons were made for that’.

The sculptures have metal rods so that live birds can roost on them, encouraged by food left by the local community.

According to one of the artists, having the pigeons sit on the sculpture is part of its choreography.

Troyeville Bedtime Story Cnr

Albertina Sisulu Rd and Viljoen St, Troyeville. With its concreteplush, studded headboard and pillows resembling a luxurious velvet bed, the 2011 artwork in the park below Troyeville Ridge is the stuff that Joburg vagrant dreams are made of. The work of photographer and artist Johannes Dreyer, designer Damien Grivas and public-art consultant Lesley Perkes, the installation is the result of neighbourhood activism to transform an unsightly pile of rubble. Troyeville Bedtime Story has hosted photo sessions and story-telling events, and has, at times, become a platform for performances, part of a never-ending bedtime story.

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WHAT TO SEE Galleries Joburg has a dynamic contemporary art scene and its galleries, mostly private, are all free to visit. On opening nights they offer opportunities to meaningfully interact with local artists, a glass of wine in hand. Many also schedule Saturday morning art walkabouts (see gallery websites). Jan Smuts Ave, between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues, is Gallery Row.

Circa Gallery 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788

4805, www.circagallery.co.za. An architectural landmark, this sister gallery to Everard Read is linked by a walkway with a show-stopping sculpture collection. Circa exhibits contemporary and classical fine art, and also hosts lectures and music events. Get to the top floor if you can.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. U

Goethe on Main, Maboneng

David Krut Projects 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood,

Lizamore & Associates 1 Chester Court, 142 Jan

Lerato Maduna

tel. +27 11 447 0627, www.davidkrut.com. Specialises in print work as multiples and editions, as well as unique works by top South African artists.QOpen Tue–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. U

Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www.lizamore.co.za. Contemporary fine art gallery and art consultants showcasing art from emerging and established artists.QOpen Tue–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. U

Everard Read Gallery 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.everard-read.co.za. An art-dealing gallery dedicated to exhibiting work and disseminating information about South Africa’s most important artists. A crucial component of the gallery’s activities is the discovery and development of young artistic talent.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. UL

Nirox Projects G-4/5, Cnr Main and Berea Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 350 4326, www. niroxarts.com. Nirox Projects hosts local and international art exhibitions by emerging and established artists working in all mediums.QOpen Tue–Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. U

Gallery AOP 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 726

2234, www.galleryaop.com. Promotes contemporary art on paper, notably limited-edition fine art prints, drawings and watercolours by new and established South African artists and also sculpture, installations and performance-based work.QOpen Tue–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. U

Gallery MOMO 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.com. A contemporary art gallery representing a number of local and international artists.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. L Goethe on Main G-4, 245 Main St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/goetheonmain. An experimental, independent art space showcasing an exciting range of urban exhibitions.QOpen Tue, Wed, Fri , Sat 10:00–16:00, Thu 11:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–14:00. Closed Mon. UL

Goodman Gallery 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel.

+27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. At the forefront of contemporary art in South Africa. The gallery’s focus is on artists from South Africa, the greater African continent, and other countries who engage in a dialogue with the African context.QOpen Tue–Fri 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. UL

Grayscale Gallery B-2/3, 2nd Fl, 33 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0077, www.grayscalegallery.co.za. The first Joburg gallery to represent alternative street and ‘lowbrow’ art-forms. Founded by three graffiti artists, it provides a platform for emerging young artists.QOpen 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Johannesburg Art Gallery (JAG) E-3, King George St, Joubert Park, tel. +27 11 725 3180. The city’s public art gallery is housed in an exceptional building and has a large collection of South African art from the 19th century to today.

QTue–Sun 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. TUL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

RES Gallery Unit 4, Chester Court, 140 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 4054, www.resgallery. com. Specialises in digital art, from limited-edition prints to interactive installations and mixed-media artworks.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. Closed Sun. ROOM Gallery/Projects C-3, 70 Juta St, Braamfon-

tein, +27 11 074 4944, www.urbanartprojects.org.

Tiny and innovative independent gallery that showcases exhibitions, events, and projects by emerging artists.QOpen 11:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Standard Bank Gallery D-5, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www. standardbankarts.co.za. A broad range of work by a variety of respected artists is showcased in a multidisciplinary space, with a focus on contemporary South African art.QOpen 08:00– 16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun, public holidays. UL Stevenson Gallery C-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein,

tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Showcases cutting-edge contemporary work by some of South Africa’s best-known artists.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00.

Closed Sun.

Two By Two Art Studio Pim Street Studios, 41 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 81 831 3557, www. twobytwo.co.za. A gallery and project space specialising in graffitti and street art.QOpen Tue–Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Performances may require an entrance fee. T Wits Art Museum (WAM) B-2, University Corner, cnr Ber-

tha St (ext of Jan Smuts Ave) and Jorrissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1358, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Home to an extraordinary collection of African art, with a dynamic programme of events and art exhibitions. Curator or artist talkabouts happen every second and fourth Saturday at 12:00. Talkabouts designed for children take place on the third Saturday of each month at 12:00, while a guided tour related to the permanent collection takes place every Sunday at 11:00. The museum has a superb café.QOpen Wed–Sun 10:00–16:00. TUK

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WHAT TO SEE

Graffiti tour, Newtown

Tours Taking a guided walk is the perfect way to experience aspects of the city that might otherwise be hidden from view. Whether it’s a focus on history and heritage, culture or street art that you’re after, you’ll find what you’re looking for.

It’s also a safer way to encounter the city for the first time.

Ancient Secrets, tel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancient-

secrets.co.za. Hindi-speaking chef Ishvara Dayan specialises in city culinary walks with a focus on diverse cultures. His tours include a spice walk in Fordsburg, exploring Asian culture in Cyrildene’s Chinatown, Ethiopian culture in the city centre and a walkabout of African traditional culture. Dayan also offers a tour that traces the footstep of Nelson Mandela, as well as of cooking classes.QWalking tours start from R100 and up to 50 people can attend. The programme varies monthly (see the website).

Dlala Nje, tel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org. This innovative tour company operates the community centre at Ponte City, once a notorious Joburg landmark. Today the iconic building is populated by families and is a beacon of hope in Hillbrow. Dlala Nje is run by journalist Nickolaus Bauer and Mike Luptak and offers tours of Hillbrow and neighbouring Yeoville, areas with diverse communities from countries across Africa.

Their night tours are a culinary adventure combining food with a nightcap in a 52nd-floor apartment in Ponte City, which has the most awe-inspiring views.QThe Yeoville night tour costs R300 and includes a beverage at each stop and all meals.

Hannelie Coetzee, tel. +27 82 810 1835, hanneliecoetzee.com. Hannelie Coetzee is an artist who creates largescale mosaics and etchings on walls in the inner city. She offers walkabouts of her public art in Fordsburg, Braamfontein and Maboneng.QWalkabouts are free, but donations can be made to future artworks.

Joburg City Sightseeing Bus Buses leave from Park Station’s Gautrain bus parking area (cnr Wolmarans and Rissik Sts), tel. +27 21 511 6000, www.citysightseeing. co.za/joburg. The open-top, hop-on hop-off bus is a great way to zoom around many of the biggest sights in one day. The Red City Tour takes a circular route around downtown Joburg and the south of the city, making 12 stops.QThe first bus leaves Park Station at 09:00, the last at 15:40. Buses every 40 mins Mon-Fri and every 30 mins Sat and Sun. One-day ticket R150 (R130 online), children 5-15, R70. Two-day ticket R250 (R230 online), children 5-15, R150. Combined Red City Tour and Soweto Tour one-day ticket R400 (R350 online), twoday ticket R500 (R400 online). Children under five ride free.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Joburg Places D-5, The Turret, cnr Marshall and Loveday Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 82 894 5216, www. joburgplaces.com. Led by Gerald Garner (whose book Joburg Places 2.0 is a must-have), Joburg Places tours focus on the inner city, with Garner telling entertaining tales of Joburg’s gold-rush origins, its glory days and its eventual, spectacular decline. They also incorporate the fascinating story of the city’s rebirth during the past decade. Tours vary from six-hour experiences, such as the Regenerated InnerCity Walk and the Newtown-to-Maboneng Tour, to shorter Gandhi-to-Mandela tours through the Mining District or shopping and food experiences in the Fashion District and Little Addis. The experience of walking Joburg’s energetic streets, where a truly democratic and new South African society is emerging, is one that will leave you invigorated, inspired, and full of hope.QJoburg Places tours start at R330 per person. Tours can be customised with a minimum of one week’s notice.

Johannesburg Heritage Foundation Northwards, 21

Rockridge Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 482 3349, http:// joburgheritage.co.za. This advocacy organisation is led by activist Flo Bird, whose guns blaze in the direction of those who threaten the city’s heritage. For the past 28 years the foundation has sought to protect historical buildings from poor bureaucratic decisions and rapacious developers. A diverse range of walking and bus tours focus on Joburg’s history and architecture. Tour guides are usually heritage specialists.QBookings can be made Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

MainStreetWalks G-4, Information Kiosk, cnr Fox and

Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za. MainStreetWalks is led by the innovative Bheki Dube, who also manages Curiocity Backpackers in the neighbourhood. The tours are aimed at encouraging people to rediscover the city by foot and by using Rea Vaya buses. The Art and Justice Tour takes in Gandhi Square and Constitution Hill, while the Inner City Tour includes the Carlton Centre, Little Addis and the fascinating Mai Mai traditional healers’ market.QTours from R200.

Past Experiences, tel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. Jo Buitendach and Tania Ohlsen are the duo behind Past Experiences, Joburg’s original walking-tour company. They care deeply about the inner city, its communities, buildings, art, graffiti and its future. Their tailor-made tours are led by young experts and aim to get you onto the streets to experience the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of the city. Try the shopping tour, specialised Mandela tour, the graffiti and street art tours or the historical tours that highlight anti-apartheid activities. Their Soweto tour includes a trip on Rea Vaya and a picnic in Thokoza Park.QR350 for a two-hour tour with a minimum of two people. Check their website for the schedule of weekend budget tours.

Sophiatown Heritage Tours 73 Toby Street, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, www. sophiatown.net. The Sophiatown (also called Sof’town or Kofifi) of the 1950s has been immortalised in countless literary and musical works. It was the epicentre of jazz, politics and literary Joburg, a vibrant community trapped by violence and poverty and yet culturally rich beyond measure.

The tour of Sophiatown’s heritage trail takes in the stories and lives of the musicians, writers and activists who grew up here before its destruction by the apartheid government’s forced-removals policy in 1955. Iconic photographs and oral history from witnesses bring Sophiatown as it was back to life.QWalking tours every Sat at 11:00 or by arrangement, cost R70 per adult. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE: SOWETO Located 17km south-west of Joburg, South Africa’s most famous township is also by far its largest. Although many areas are still desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier neighbourhoods and a growing middleclass. The township was always at the forefront of the struggle against apartheid, and was once home to Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, both Nobel Peace Prize winners. There are several worthwhile historical sights and museums to visit. Soweto has a cultural, music and social scene all its own, while soccer is a huge obsession for the many fans of its two mega-clubs: Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Locals are outgoing and friendly, proud of Soweto and keen to make sure tourists enjoy their stay and leave with positive impressions. For sport and culture events, see Culture & Events. For accommodation in Soweto, see Where to Stay.

Getting to Soweto By car The main tourist destinations such as Vilakazi Street, the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum and the football stadiums are well sign-posted.

Tours A great way to really get to know the township on a first visit is by hiring a local guide or by joining one of the many bus, walking or cycling tours.

Public transport Rea Vaya routes from the city centre pass all the most famous sights, making a self-guided tour by public transport a safe and relatively easy option. For Vilakazi Street take the T-1 to Boomtown and then the F-4 to Vilakazi (or alternatively walk for 15 minutes). For Regina Mundi church, take the T-1 to Thokoza Park (from where there are also Rea Vaya buses to Kliptown).

Sightseeing Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum 8287

Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 115 36 06 11. This deeply moving museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best.

The museum focuses on the events leading to the Soweto school uprising that started on June 16, 1976. Also explore the memorials in the nearby streets and squares. No cameras allowed inside.QOpen 10:00–17:00. Admission R30.

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Orlando Towers, Soweto

Mandela House Museum 8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 7754, www.mandelahouse. com. Nelson Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Inside, the small rooms are filled with memorabilia.QOpen 09:00–16:45. Admission R60 (citizens of African Union countries R40), children over six, R20; children under six, R5.

Orlando Towers Dynamo St, cnr Old Potch Rd, Orlando

East, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za.

The two huge cooling towers are a magnet for thrill-seekers wanting to go bungee jumping, paintballing, power swinging and rock climbing.QOpen Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset. Also open during the week for corporate events/large groups by prior arrangement.

Regina Mundi Church 1149 Kumalo St, off Elias

Motsoaledi Rd, Soweto, tel. +27 11 980 5450, www. reginamundichurch.co.za. Rockville’s Catholic Church, the largest in the country, was built in 1964 and played a hugely significant role in the struggle against apartheid – it has the bullet holes to prove it.QOpen 09:00–17:00. Sunday services 07:00, 09:00. Entrance is R20 and the church welcomes donations towards the maintenance of the building.

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WHAT TO SEE: SOWETO Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tours Soweto Backpackers,

10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobicycletours.com. A great way to experience Soweto is on a cycling, walking or tuk-tuk tour.QBicycle tours: two hours R390, four hours R480 (including lunch), full day R620. Tuk-tuk tours: two hours R335, four hours R520 per person (including lunch). Walking tour: three hours R335.

Discounted prices for guests at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers and for groups.

Soweto Outdoor Adventures Dynamo St, Soweto, tel. +27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures. co.za. Soweto Outdoor Adventures offers innovative tours by quad bike as well as go-karting, paintball and camping.

Restaurants, cafés and bars

Chaf Pozi

Vilakazi Street Vilakazi St, Orlando West. Probably the most famous street in Soweto, it was once home to Nelson and Winnie Mandela, while Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu still has a house here. Locals sell crafts and there is a handful of thriving restaurants.

Walter Sisulu Square Klipspruit Valey Rd and Union Ave, Kliptown, www.waltersisulusquare.co.za. In 1955 the Congress of the People met in this square to adopt the Freedom Charter, a statement of principles calling for a nonracial, free and democratic South Africa, which today forms the basis of the country’s constitution. An open-air museum explains how the Freedom Charter was written.

Tours and local guides Bay of Grace Tours Dynamo St, off Chris Hani Rd, Soweto, tel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours. wozaonline.com. The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam. A particular highlight is the hike up Enoch Sontonga hill, which offers spectacular views.QBird tours from one to six hours, or a full day along the Klipspruit/ Klip River wetland. From R150 for a half-day. Kids under 12 free. Township and historical/cultural tours R650; kids under 12 half-price.

Joburg City Sightseeing Soweto Tour Gold Reef City,

cnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Operated in collaboration with the Joburg City Sightseeing Bus and SoWeToo, the minibus tour of Soweto leaves three times a day from Gold Reef City and takes you on a comprehensive two-hour tour with six stops along the way.QCombined Joburg and Soweto tickets cost R400 (R350 if you book online).

Chaf Pozi Orlando Towers, cnr Kingsley Sithole and

Nicholas Sts, Orlando East, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www. chafpozi.co.za. Lying in the shadow of the Orlando Towers, this is a local institution, a relaxed spot where Sowetans and Joburgers come in their hundreds to enjoy a beer and some shisa nyama (a township-style dish for which you choose your own meat to be flame-grilled to perfection and served with typically African side dishes, such as pap (a stiff maize porridge). A popular weekend party spot with DJs playing everything from township jazz to deep house, hip-hop and kwaito.

Reservations recommended.QOpen Wed–Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR (corkage R30). EUBSLW

Sakhumzi 6980 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 939 4427, www.sakhumzi.co.za. Always lively, this colourful restaurant and its bustling street terrace is one of the most popular Soweto places to eat out or have a beer. Food is typical African township fare and if you have been hankering to try local dishes such as mogadu (tripe stew), chakalaka (spicy vegetable stew), ox liver or even maotwana (chicken feet), this is the place for it. A great-value buffet includes plenty of stews and salads in addition to the more exotic items, and an à la carte menu offers burgers and omelettes for the less adventurous.QOpen 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sun 11:00–24:00. RR EB The Rock 1987 Vundla St, Rockville (Moroka), tel. +27 11 986 8182. A premier drinking and dancing spot for Soweto’s beautiful people, The Rock is a glamorous bar and lounge considered by locals as the best place to enjoy a rooftop sundowner while gazing over the sprawling township.

Weekend afternoons are particularly popular for enjoying some food and the DJs spinning African deep-house.QB

Thrive Café 8038 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 536 1838, thrivecafe.co.za. Despite its location on touristy Vilakazi Street, Thrive offers visitors a slick, modern café-style alternative to the area’s more traditional township fare. Relax on the wide upper-floor balcony and enjoy the excellent coffee, cakes, fresh salads, healthy breakfasts, beautifully presented lunches, free wi-fi and the like. Though unlicensed, guests can bring their own wine (corkage R30).QOpen 07:30–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. TULBSW

Shopping Maponya Mall 2127 Chris Hani Rd, Klipspruit Ext 5, tel.

Hector Pieterson Memorial

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Chris Kirchhoff

+27 11 938 4448, www.maponyamall.co.za. Soweto’s first mega-mall takes its name from Richard Maponya, a Soweto entrepreneur and race-horse owner.QOpen Mon– Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–17:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. TABKS

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WHAT TO SEE: CHINESE JOBURG Joburg has had a sizeable and vibrant Chinese community since it was first founded. Chinese workers were brought to the country as cheap labour to work in the mines. The city’s original Chinatown was settled on Commissioner Street in the late 19th century, but nowadays Chinese Joburgers have spread out across the city, particularly to New Chinatown in Cyrildene, east of the city centre.

Many of the cultural traditions of the old country are still upheld, and Chinese New Year in particular is celebrated in extravagant and explosive style.

Old Chinatown C-5, 5-17 Commissioner St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

The city’s original Chinatown was settled on Commissioner Street in the early 19th century. With the flight from the city after 1994 the area lost the fight against urban degeneration, crime and decay. This trend is reversing; still, Chinatown hasn’t fully recovered. Some stalwarts remain and today you can visit the area for food at the longest-surviving Chinese restaurant in the city, Swallows Inn (C-5, 6 Commissioner St, Ferreirasdorp, +27 11 838 2946, open 11:00-15:00, 17:00-21:00). Nearby is the fantastic supermarket Sui Hing Hong (C-5, 17 Commissioner Street, Ferreirasdorp, +27 11 834 7905).

New Chinatown Derrick Ave, Cyrildene. If you are looking for a lifestyle antidote to the new cool areas, you’ll find it here. An impressive archway marks the entrances, and a change in tone from t h e su rrou n d i n g su b u r b’s genteel 1950s architecture.

The storefronts are unmistakabl y Asian and include supermarkets, restaurants, tea shops, massage parlours, acupuncturists and hair salons, while the streets are filled with fish stalls and vegetable markets. There is an authentic grittiness, which only seems to add to its charm. Places to eat tasty and well-priced Asian food abound – anything from Szechuan cuisine to Thai and Korean delicacies. For the adventurous eater there is probably a lot of fun to be had in deciphering untranslated Chinese menus. For restaurants on Derrick Avenue, see Asian restaurants in Where To Eat.

Bangkok Thai Spa Cnr Derrick Ave and Hettie St,

Cyrildene, tel. +27 78 783 7191. A range of Thai and Western-style massages to suit any preference at cut-rate prices. Weekdays specials include a one-hour massage for R199. The rooms are spotless and you will be greeted cheerily from the front verandah by a profusion of silk orchids.

Hao Jue International Club 46 Derrick Ave, Cyrildene,

tel. +27 11 615 3324. Not easy to find but worth looking for, this club is situated a block or two in from the Friedland Street archway in the same building as the African Times office. A few floors up, it is a karaoke club that rents party rooms complete with plush couches, big screens, powerful sound systems and fantastically translated English pop songs set to videos of Korean lovers strolling hand in hand across odd Swedish-looking landscapes. Perfect for a private party.

Yat Kee Chinese Supermarket 16 Derrick Ave, +27 11 615 3911. Looking for exotic ingredients to whip up a superb Asian meal? This is your stop.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The best of Chinese Joburg Emma Chen was born in Taiwan and has lived in Joburg for more than 30 years. She is the owner of Red Chamber Mandarin Restaurant in Hyde Park Corner and the author of a food memoir Emperor Can Wait. Here she shares her top Chinese Joburg experiences.

1. Walk along the short stretch of shops in Commissioner Street – the Old Chinatown. The United Club at number 6 was established in 1909. If you feel like some old-fashioned sweets, pop in to Sui Hing Hong.

2. Spend half a day in Cyrildene – the New Chinatown.

The brand-new China Arch at the entrance to Derrick Avenue is a symbol of the growing and prosperous Chinese community in Joburg. Pop into any of the many restaurants, try something small, and continue to the next one. Discover the diversity of Chinese food this way. The best shuijiao (boiled dumplings) can be had at North Dumplings.

3. Admire the largest Buddhist temple in the southern hemisphere at Bronkhorstspruit (about 45 minutes’ drive from Joburg.) The magnificent Nan Hua Temple was donated by Taiwanese Buddhists (see Places of Interest).

4. Need to stay cool and calm? Go to a tai chi class on Thursday evenings, run by the Tibetan Meditation Centre in Kensington (43 Floss St, +27 11 614 1948, www. kagyu.org.za). This old Joburg suburb has some grand houses from a bygone era. On Saturday mornings, tai chi classes can be found at Emmarentia Dam. 5. Interested to know how the Chinese came to South Africa? Many were brought to work in the mines in the early 1900s. Read Colour, Confusions and Concessions: the History of Chinese in South Africa by Melanie Yap and Daniel Leong Man. 6. Look out for the Chinese newspaper African Times. Its small staff produce the most popular newspaper in the Chinese community.

7. Craving authentic Peking duck? Red Chamber in Hyde Park prepares it the traditional way and without MSG. 8. Eat dim sum at Regal Palace in Linksfield. It has a wide selection to satisfy everyone’s taste, especially pidan zhou (Chinese egg rice porridge).

9. Join hundreds of spectators at Florida Lake south of Joburg to watch the fierce competition among dragon boat racing teams (www.floridadragons.co.za). It often takes place on public holidays and Sundays, although dates are not fixed.

10. Shop for bargains at China Mart (3 Press Ave, Selby, Crown Mines, +27 11 830 2446). You can join shoppers from all over Africa in pursuit of cheap goods from China.

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SHOPPING Finders Keepers Market Upper Deck Parking, Rosebank Mall, 50 Bath Ave (entrance on Baker St), Rosebank, +27 72 243 8582, www.finderskeepersmarket. co.za. This expansive market specialises in colourful African crafts and artworks, with a healthy handful of food stalls and local fashion thrown into the mix. The huge, covered rooftop space accommodates talented artists working with a myriad of materials. Live African music, street entertainers and a giant bouncy castle make this a family-friendly experience.

QSun 09:00–16:00. TLE

Market on Main Night Market, Maboneng From mega malls and chic little high streets to African markets and roadside attractions, Joburg has something for every shopper. There are malls galore and in recent years an increasing appetite for street life in places like Braamfontein and Maboneng. The remodelling of Rosebank around an open piazza, and the enormous popularity of outdoor centres like Blubird in Birnam, 44 Stanley in Milpark and high streets such as Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue as weekend hotspots, follow this trend.

Markets African Craft Market Rosebank Mall, 50 Bath Ave (en-

trance on Baker St), Rosebank, www.craft.co.za. Probably the city’s most famous craft market, this is a one-stop spot for all your African souvenir needs. Hundreds of stalls sell crafts such as traditional beaded trinkets, wooden carved chests, paintings, West African masks, local fabrics, those quintessential Big Five figurines and the current must-have: the Mandela T-shirt. Bargain hard!QOpen 09:00–17:00.

Antiques and Collectables Fairs Sandton and Hyde Park, http://ssaf.co.za. Great places to hunt for special antiques and hard-to-find treasures. Sandton Nelson Mandela Square, entrances on Maude and West Sts, Sandton. The Sandton fair (inside the mall behind the statue) has been going for almost 30 years and is one of the biggest in the country.

QFirst Sunday of the month, 09:00–16:00. Hyde Park Hyde Park Corner, 6th Rd (off Jan Smuts Ave), Hyde Park.QLast Sunday of the month, 09:00–16:00. UL B&B Markets Norwood Rooftop, Norwood Mall, cnr

6th Ave and Hamlin St, Norwood, tel. +27 11 444 4488, www.craft.co.za/our-markets/bb-markets-norwood.

With around 300 stalls this market has something for the whole family. Browse for vintage bric-a-brac, brightly coloured Swazi-style clothing, carved wooden toys, beaded bowls and box-mounted movie posters. For kids there are funfair-style games and a jumping castle, buskers and musical entertainment.QSun 09:00–16:00. TULE

Bryanston Organic Market 40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www.bryanstonorganicmarket. co.za. The original outdoor market has been around for 37 years, offering organic goods and products, from arts and crafts to authentic panama hats and preservative-free and colourant-free home-baked goods. Not a hipster in sight.

QOpen Thu, Sat 09:00–15:00. TLE

Collective 3 Desmond Ave, Kramerville, tel. +27 83 967

8995, www.collective-jhb.com. A stylish pop-up market that showcases designer goods, including ceramics, fabrics, vintage clothing and homeware. The view from its Sandton rooftop venue is spectacular.QOpen first Sunday of the month 10:00–16:00. L

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Fordsburg Night Market A-4/5, In and around Mint St (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd), Fordsburg. This bustling night market in the predominantly Muslim neighbourhood of Fordsburg is one of a few areas where it is enjoyable and safe to walk about after dark. The local community trawl this open-air market for Bollywood films, pirated DVDs, jewellery, clothes, incense and spices. Irresistible aromas of Indian street food fill the air with authentic samoosas, biryanis and sizzling tikka kebabs to be found on just about every corner.

QFri, Sat evenings.

Mai Mai Market G-5, Cnr Anderson and Berea Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 7344. People flock here in search of healers and cures for all manner of physical and spiritual ailments. Dubbed ezinyangeni (‘the place of healers’), the Mai Mai market preserves important aspects of indigenous knowledge. For visitors it is fascinating for its cultural richness and exotic offerings such as animal skins, muti (medicine) and traditional artefacts. Not a place for vegetarians or those offended by animal skins. Best visited with a guide (see Tours).

QOpen 09:00–18:00.

Market on Main G-4, Arts on

Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www.marketonmain. co.za. Mab on en g’s Sun day heartbeat. Food and design are centre stage with a selection ranging from African fusion sushi to perfect little pastries. One floor above is devoted to vintage fashion finds, plus publicist and accessory designer Maria McCloy’s African print shoes and clutch bags. A perfect spot for lazing away a Sunday.Q Open Sun 10:00–15:00. Night market first Thu of each month, 19:00–23:00. TLBW

Neighbourgoods Market C-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Imported from its native Cape Town, Neighbourgoods now attracts up to 4 000 people to the city over the course of the day. A great selection of pricey food and drinks, with queues for the ever-popular paella stand and Balkan burgers, along with frozen mojitos and craft beer.

The crowd takes over the terrace, with the top floor offering a great city view.QSat 09:00–15:00. B Sandton Craft Market Nelson Mandela Sq (entrances

on Maude and West Sts), Sandton, www.craft.co.za/ourmarkets/sandton-craft-market. This bright and airy space behind the Sandton library is a popular place for African craft and art. Generally high quality, with some beautiful paintings as well as the usual wood-carved items, imaginative metalwork, colourful local fabrics and beaded objects. Postcards and small souvenirs along with the ubiquitous vuvuzela can be found in the small shop to the right.QOpen 09:00–18:00.

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SHOPPING SHOPPING Malls You have arrived in Mall City. From the super-luxe Hyde Park Corner where the ladies lunch and drop thousands of rand on designer labels to Rosebank’s The Zone, which throngs with hip young things shopping for the newest trends, there’s a mall for everyone.

Blubird Cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam,

tel. +27 11 887 2759, www.blubird.co.za. Small and modern with plenty of good restaurants with balcony views plus Belle’s Patisserie, gift store Le Bijou, which stocks a great selection of fashion jewellery and home accessories, and lots of other girlie fashion favourites. A Whole Food market pops up every Sunday. The open-air structure and lots of outdoor restaurant seating are great for taking advantage of the city’s fine weather.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. LB

Eastgate Shopping Centre 43 Bradford Rd, Bed-

fordview, tel. + 27 11 479 6000, www.eastgatecentre.co.za. A mega-mall located in close proximity to O.R. Tambo International Airport, Eastgate has around 271 stores that include high-fashion boutiques, street-fashion concept stores, restaurants, cinemas plus rooftop dining.

Live music Fri 14:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00–16:00.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00. UL

Hyde Park Corner 6th Rd (off Jan Smuts Ave), Hyde

Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkshopping. co.za. The city’s swankiest mall. Join the fashionable set for lunch or cappuccino at Tasha’s Le Parc or Life. For jewels fit for royalty, head to Charles Greig; for international catwalk labels there’s Burberry, Callaghan and Luminance and other topdrawer stores. For gifts, Carol Boyes stocks a range of South African-designed pewter and silver cutlery and flatware. The centre also has a Nu-Metro cinema.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sunday and public holidays 10:00–15:00. UL

Melrose Arch Melrose Bvd, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 0000, www.melrosearch.co.za. Streetside café culture and high-street shopping mix in this popular urban precinct designed around a live, work, play lifestyle. Fashion stores take centre stage along with a flagship Edgars store showcasing local fashion labels. There’s a premium Virgin Active gym and an impressive Elegance jewellery store. Join the the waiting list for Tasha’s café on the piazza or try Orient for superb Asian fare. An array of events takes place in the open square, and pop-up bars put in an appearance.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. ULB Nelson Mandela Square Entrance on Maude and West

Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 217 6001, www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Although joined by a corridor to Sandton City, Nelson Mandela Square claims its place as the even more glamorous sister. Built around an open piazza flanked by restaurants, including Wang Thai, the impressive Sandton Library and Auto & General Theatre on the Square, the square is a popular tourist destination.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–16:00. LB

Oriental Plaza A-4/5, 38-60 Bree St, Fordsburg, tel.

+27 11 838 6752, www.orientalplaza.co.za. For a different pace to the malls of the northern suburbs, head to Fordsburg’s Oriental Plaza with its fabric shops, spice shops, fast fashion, luggage selection, kids’ toys, sari silks and cheaply priced homewares. More than 350 stores plus the best samoosas in town from The Golden Peacock Restaurant.

QOpen 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–15:00, Closed Sun. UL

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Melrose Arch

SA Tourism

Rosebank Mall 50 Bath Ave (entrance on Baker St), Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.themallofrosebank.co.za. Currently being renovated but will emerge in mid2014 with 160 new stores. Linked via pedestrian walkways to The Zone, The Firs and smaller centres on Oxford Road. It houses the artsy Cinema Nouveau.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–17:00. UL Sandton City Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. With easy access to the Gautrain and more than 300 stores, this mega-mall is Africa’s most prestigious. There’s not much you can’t find here, whether you’re looking for the latest technology gadget, hiking equipment, on-trend fashion or a crystal decanter.QOpen Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. LK The Zone @ Rosebank 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 537 3800, www.thezoneatrosebank.co.za.

The Rosebank precinct attracts crowds with a choice of local fashion and international fashion labels, supermarkets and restaurants. With a kids’ entertainment zone and cinemas, the place heaves with youthful crowds.QGround floor open MonThu 09:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

On most days the first-floor stores stay open an hour later.

Public holidays 09:00–17:00. TUL

Alternative malls Head to 44 Stanley and Bamboo if malls aren’t your thing.

44 Stanley 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482

4444, http://44stanley.co.za. This once unremarkable 1930s industrial complex is now a fashionable design destination with shaded courtyards and an eclectic collection of specialty boutiques, bookstores, design studios, 1950s furniture and collectibles, food stops and exceptional contemporary South African design. Eat at Salvation Café, or stop for a fair-trade coffee at Bean There.QOpen 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. LB

Bamboo Cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel.

+27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online.co.za. Away from Melville’s student haunts, Bamboo houses a small but sophisticated collection of fashion stores, an art gallery, a great book shop and a popular café, Service Station. Across the road is artist Sue-Pam Grant’s fascinating shop-front installation space. Early on Saturday mornings there is a slow-food fresh produce market.QOpen 9:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. L

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SHOPPING Love Books Bamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel.

+27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za. Kate Rogan selection exhibits thoughtful and considered choices, awardwinning books, and books people are or should be talking about. The bookshop hosts regular events and launches and also stocks great books for children.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–02:00.

Rad Gallery 357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Albans Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. A small but delightful store attached to a popular café, Warm & Glad. The place for quirky design books on fashion, typography, street food and other specialised interests.

QOpen 07:30–16:30, Sat 08:30–12:30. Closed Sun. K

Bookdealers 12 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 4054, www.bookdealers.co.za. New titles arrive every week and the many genres covered will interest just about any reader – from popular fiction to cookbooks, history to detective novels. Bookdealers has six stores across the city and will ship books to most countries.QOpen Mon 09:00–21:00, Tue–Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–21:00.

I was shot in Joburg, Maboneng

Books Exclusive Books Shop U110/112, Upper Level, Nelson Mandela Sq, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 5416, www.exclus1ves.co.za. With stores in many of the city’s major shopping centres, this is your destination for new books.

You’ll also find contemporary South African writing here, and it is good for tracking down hiking maps and roadmaps.QOpen 08:00–22:30, Sat 09:00–22:30, Sun 09:00–21:00. UL David Krut Bookstore 151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood,

tel. +27 11 880 5646, www.davidkrutpojects.com. With a print workshop and art gallery in Parkwood and Maboneng (which also sells books), David Krut is a top South African art book publisher and stocks a unique and hand-picked range of exquisite local and imported art books.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun.

Collectors Treasury F-4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 334 6556, www.antiqbook.com/bookdealer.phtml?o=collectorstreasury.

It doesn’t get much better than this: the largest used and rare-book shop in Africa, with two million items (books, maps, engravings, prints, porcelain, records, etc.). Take your time to unearth some treasures.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. Hospice Bookshop C-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1026, www.hospicewitwatersrand.org.za/Shops-Braamfontein.aspx. The flagship store of the charity Hospice, this quirky shop sells an assortment of clothing, household objects, vintage and rare items along with a fine selection of well-priced fiction and nonfiction.QOpen 09:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. Kalahari Books The Garret, Tuxedo Junction, 2 Dunottar St, Orange Grove, tel. +27 82 678 8619, kalaharibooks.co.za. All you see from the street is a hand-painted black arrow pointing to a concrete ramp. Follow it to this haven for used, hard-to-find and generally out-of-print editions (an estimated 70 000 titles). Kalahari Books also sells from two Sunday markets: B&B Markets Norwood Stall Y18, and Finders Keepers Rosebank Mall Market Stall 191 (see Markets).

QOpen Tue–Sat 09:30–16:30. Closed Sun, Mon.

Crafted goods 1886 Boutique G-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 467 2264, w w w.1886boutique. co.za. An ode to Joburg and its landmarks in a myriad quirk y household objects, from ta xi hand-signs printed on tea towels to ceramics bearing the image of the Hillbrow Tower. The large Joburg Princess cushions are a personal favourite.QOpen 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. L Art Africa 62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 486

Maboneng Precinct

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

1886 Boutique

2052. A treasure trove for South African arts and crafts gifts and household accessories made from beads and recycled products. Art Africa stocks everything from jewellery to fabrics, homeware to furniture, along with extraordinary ceramics, lighting and other handmade goods.Q Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Ceramic Factory 59 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 11 057 4314, www.ceramicfactory.co.za. Quirk y and functional ceramic design items that are uniquely South African. I t often produces new ranges, with an updated retro, humourous feel.QOpen Mon–Sat (trading hours vary so call in advance to check).

Green Grass Shop 34 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11

447 8570, www.greengrassdesign.co.za. Located on the busy 4th Avenue strip, Ria Kraftt’s Green Grass Design studio’s charming shop is a perfect place for gifts, unique laser-cut wood, perspex and paper gifts and homeware.

QOpen 09:30–17:00, Sat 09:30–13:00, Sun 10:00–13:00.

Closed Mon.

I Was Shot in Joburg G-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, +27 82 922 5674, www. iwasshotinjoburg.co.za. ‘From the streets of Joburg to the streets of the world,’ is the tagline of this innovative studio.

I Was Shot In Joburg provides an outlet for former street kids who received photography training through the I Was Shot Foundation. Street photography on canvases plus an ever-growing range of goods, including printed T-shirts and notebooks.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Love Jozi G-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 1071, www.lovejozi.co.za. This innovative South African T-shirt and design company mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, finding design inspiration in the optimism about the rise of Joburg as a world city. Well-cut designer T-shirts get a graphic make-over along with signature Joburg objects. Products can be ordered online.

QOpen 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. L Museum of Man and Science C-4, 14 Diagonal St,

City Centre, tel. +27 11 836 4470. Not quite a museum but certainly a fascinating cultural trip with great curiosities.

This traditional-medicine shop has been around for over 60 years and stocks more than 1 900 indigenous herbs prescribed by inyangas (traditional healers). Appointments are available with the resident sangoma.QOpen 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–13:30. Closed Sun.

Piece Shop 5, The Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves,

Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 5541, www.piece.co.za.

This special store develops the skills of local craftspeople and sells an extraordinary range of goods, from traditional woven baskets to papier mâché creatures from the Kalahari.

Its celebrity customers include Michelle Obama and Princess Charlene of Monaco.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00.

Closed Sun. L

Spaza Art Gallery H-4, 19 Wilhelmina St, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 614 9354, www.spazagallery.wozaonline. co.za. Andrew Lindsay’s Spaza Gallery is a Troyeville institution, showcasing young and upcoming local artists. With a shop and sculpture garden, the place also hosts a monthly Sunday lunch, usually with live music and delicious vegetarian food. Spaza is located near the David Webster Park in Troyeville, named after an activist who was assassinated by the apartheid state, which is also worth a visit. Lindsay runs occasional tours of his public art projects, and has also created a set of quirky Joburg maps. Call to arrange a visit.

QOpen 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun, Mon. BK johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Local fashion picks Joburg has a dynamic fashion industry and hosts two national fashion weeks. While there are plenty of global designer labels to be found, the fashion-conscious should stock up on some local darlings.

Craig Jacobs is a journalist who turned fashion designer. Inspired by a lake sacred to the vhaVenda tribe from the Limpopo province, Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs has gained a reputation for creating a proudly African aesthetic that is modern and understated, offering ranges of easy-to-wear garments.

The label is underpinned by the idea of ‘global African warrior women’, ethical principles, and the incorporation of local and eco-friendly fabrics. Favoured by the corporate set, politico wives and celebrities.

Fundudzi by Craig Jacobs (+27 11 880 6355, www. fundudzi.com) is stocked by SA Designer Capsule at department store chain Edgars’s flagship store, Melrose Arch (+ 27 11 214 5800) and at Sandton City (+27 11 685 7000). Pallu in Sandton City (+27 11 783 8290) stocks Fundudzi cocktail wear, while its edgier designs are at Burgundy Fly, Maponya Mall, Soweto (+27 11 938 1398). Here are some of Craig’s favourite local labels: Thula Sindi Providing a contemporary turn on Joburg style, the Twist dress (a shift featuring deftly folded pleats to create a flattering twist around the waist) is every local fashionista’s must-have item. At Burgundy Fly in The Zone @ Rosebank (+27 11 046 9985) and Maponya Mall, Soweto (see Soweto).

Joel Janse Van Vuuren This Durban-born designer creates whimsical, delicate hand-dyed dresses. He works from his Illovo studio where he takes on private client commissions. Egality, Parkhurst (see Shopping).

Sies! Isabelle ‘Sies!’ might be Afrikaans slang for something you don’t like, but not in this case. London International School of Fashion graduate Isabelle Lotter has built a strong following for her oh-so-flattering and easy-to-wear pieces. At The Space (The Zone @ Rosebank, +27 11 327 3640, and Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort +27 11 475 1072).

Loin Cloth & Ashes The Main Change Retail Space, Maboneng, City Centre, +27 72 143 2312.

‘Dare to be different’ is a philosophy that resonates in the fiercely African aesthetic that infuses Anisa Mpungwe’s designs, which were recently worn by American songstress Solange Knowles for an Elle cover photograph. The label recently teamed up with Mr Price, everyone’s favourite mass-market chain, to bring a more accessible range to the market.

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SHOPPING Jewellery They don’t call this the City of Gold for nothing, and it’s also the place for diamonds and all other precious metals and gems. There are plenty of stores available at shopping centres. For the widest choice head to Sandton City.

1886 Boutique, Maboneng

Fashion Black Coffee Bamboo, cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th Ave,

Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.blackcoffee.co.za.

At the forefront of South African fashion, designer Jacques van Watt‘s clothing combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction and attention to detail. The store shares space with Love Jozi.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00pm, Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00. L

Egality 25 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, tel. +27 71 452 2503, www.egality.co.za. For him and her, this elegant store on the most happening suburban street showcases a great range of local designer threads plus selected international brands. It also stocks an exceptional range of accessories, swimwear and shoes. Look out for labels David Tlale, Terence Bray and Pichulik’s bold-coloured rope necklace accessories.

QOpen 09:00–18:00. L Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe

Shop G3C, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 82 222 3635, www.guillotinedesign.com. Guillotine’s design style is all about sensual fitted forms, luxurious fabrics with an emphasis on the architecture of each clothing item. Tailoring and structure are what make Guillotine the cutting-edge label it is. The store also stocks L’Mad, Lucy MacGarry’s range of silk printed scarves bearing original artworks.QOpen 09:00–16:30, Sun 10:00–14:00. Closed Mon.

Kluk CGDT 46 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 83 377 7730,

www.klukcgdt.com. This beautiful Parkhurst street-side store houses Kluk CGDT, a highly refined exclusive label offering ready-to-wear and couture clothing as well as bridal fashion. The emphasis is on tailoring and modern luxury.

QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:30. Closed Sun.

Suzaan Heyns Shop 53, The

Piazza, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1899, www.suzaanheyns.com. Fashion and art collide to produce this highly wearable label. The boutique is worth a visit anyway – it is an ever-changing platform and installation space that showcases the artistry behind the clothes and the art of design.

Q Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00. L

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Kirsten Goss Shop 2A, 66 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 447 2234, www.kirstengoss. com. Fine handcrafted jewellery in gold and silver with precious stones. Durbanborn Kirsten Goss made her name as a jeweller y designer in London, and her Joburg shop shares space wi t h Cap e To wn-b a s e d leath er lab el Missibaba.

QOpen 09:00–16:30, Sat 09:30–13:00. Closed Sun. Reads Shop 4, The Zone @ Rosebank, Tyrwhitt Pedestrian Mall, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +2711 880 2702, www.reads.co.za. For special finds of designer antique and locally made jewellery, silverware and other beautiful objects, Reads, established in 1912, offers an exquisite selection of fine diamond and gemstone jewellery, with excellent service.

QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. L Tinsel 25 4th Ave (cnr 11th St), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 2761, www. tinsel.co.za. The stark design of Geraldine Fenn’s store is a perfect canvas on which to showcase beautiful locally made contemporary jewellery by some of South Africa’s best designers. In the in-store studio Geraldine Fenn and Eric Loubser create custom-designed pieces and one-of-a-kind engagement rings.Q Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00– 16:00. Closed Sun. L

Kids You’ll find big-brand toy shops and kids’ clothing stores in the major shopping malls, but smaller specialist toys here. For kids’ clothing, Sandton City is the place. Look out for local labels Earth Addict, Naartjie and the budgetconscious and on-trend Mr Price.

Parkview Toys 62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3504, www.parkviewtoys.co.za. Plenty of dress-up costumes, ballet outfits and toys and games for younger children. A reasonably priced toyshop with lots of options for under R100.QOpen 08:30–17:30, Fri 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–13:30. Closed Sun. Polly Potter 34 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 788

6811, www.pollypotterstoystore.co.za. This cute shop on Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue is the alternative to a tech childhood, with wigwams, dollhouses and farmyards of toy animals, plus challenging games and toys to keep young minds busy.

QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. L

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SHOPPING Music While you can find big-brand music stores like Musica and Look & Listen in the bigger shopping malls, the stores listed here specialise in expert recommendations and advice. For the best of African music and beautifully packaged, superb compilations that you shouldn’t leave the city without, head to African Cream Music online (www.

AfricanCream Store.com).

Kohinoor World of Music C-4, 163/6 Albertina Sisulu Rd, (formerly 54 Market St), City Centre, tel. +27 11 834 1361. This brightly painted store, established in 1950 and now hidden from view beneath a furniture shop in the inner city, is a treasure trove for discerning jazz music collectors.

While they have CDs, DVDs, LPs and cassettes covering all music genres, Kohinoor specialises in jazz and African music.

If you are in the area there are several sites worth visiting (see What To See).QOpen 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–14:00.

Closed Sun. Record Mad Shop 2 Lin-

den Place, 59 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 83 419 5912, recordmad.co.za.

Located in the the up-andcoming neighbourhood of Linden, this is a dedicated record shop for new and second-hand vinyl, LPs and 7” singles in most genres.

Record Mad stocks onl y records and a good selecDarren M. Smith Smart R Media tion of impor ted current releases, from jazz to rock, some African and world music, soul, funk and disco. Spend time on 4th Avenue to find an interesting collection of shops and restaurants.Q Fri 14:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–14:00.

Second-hand and vintage For antiques and collectables markets see Markets; for clothing head to the stores we list here. A fine selection of vintage clothing is on offer at Market on Main.

Fr u i t c a ke F - 4 , 1 3 0

Pritchard St, cnr Troye St, Fashion Kapitol, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 8005. A cute little store tucked into the alley way in the Fashion Kapitol for incredibly well-priced used clothing and vintage finds – from 1980s punk to 1950s swing skirts. The kings and queens of the city’s streetfashion set hang out here.

See What To See for more on the area.QOpen Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 14:00. Closed Sun.

Reminscene 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7905, www.vintageclothing.mahoonas.co.za. This vintage shop has been in business for 27 years selling an excellent selection of period clothing, with the latest items from the 1970s.

If you are a vintage fan you’ll enjoy the handbags, leather day bags, evening bags, shoes, luxurious furs and 1920s jewellery.QOpen 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Artist’s impression of the new Rosebank Mall

Supermarkets and food stores Ubiquitous supermarket brands include Pick n Pay hypermarkets – the most impressive is the flagship branch on William Nicol Drive in Sandton and the largest is at Norwood Mall; Woolworths, the upmarket neighbourhood convenience-store chain; the Spar franchise – the best branches are in Norwood on Grant Avenue and Craighall Park on Lancaster Avenue; and Shoprite Checkers, which also houses Computicket events-ticket kiosks. There are also specialty supermarkets where you can find the largest range of imported and exotic ingredients (see Delis).

Sui Hing Hong C-5, 17 Commissioner St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 834 7905. The fantastic old Chinese supermarket, Sui Hing Hong, sells everything from fireworks to sex toys, crockery to condiments and any ingredients you’ll need to cook your own authentic Chinese meal. Also worth popping in if you feel like some old-fashioned sweets, such as dates and walnut jelly.QOpen 08:30–17:30, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

Thrupps Thrupps Illovo Centre, cnr Oxford and Rudd

Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0298, www.thrupps.co.za.

A grocer of distinction, Thrupps has a rich history and a fine selection of food products, deli counters and often otherwise tricky-to-find exotic ingredients. This is where the upper crust shops for food.QOpen 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–14:00, Sun 08:00–13:00.

Wine and spirits Norman Goodfellows 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27

11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za. Not just another bottle store, this establishment specialises in expert advice and excellent service, and stocks an outstanding range of local and imported brands of just about anything you might have a taste for. It also has a branch at Melrose Arch.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. L

Wine Concepts BluBird Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Lymington Ave, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 5498, wineconcepts.co.za. Wine store specialising in Cape wines with a fantastic handpicked selection of rare and unusual labels from across the Cape region. Regular tastings and charming, highly knowledgeable staff make this a great place for discovering special local wines. It also has a delivery service and can help with ordering cases for your cellar.QOpen 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–14:00.

Share your favourites. Email us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com February - April 2014

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GAY JOBURG Gay Joburg Luiz DeBarros is editor of Mamba Online (www.mambaonline. co m), S ou th Af rica’s most popular gay news and lifestyle website. In his spare time, he’s also a copywriter, designer and documentary filmmaker.

1. Tour the remarkable Constitution Hill in Braamfontein. Built on the site where men were jailed for ‘immorality’ during the apartheid era, it’s now the home of the world’s first constitution to specifically give gays and lesbians equal rights (see Museums).

2. Live Jozi’s queer history. GALA (7th floor, University Corner, cnr Bertha St, an extension of Jan Smuts Ave, and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4239, www.gala.co.za), the gay and lesbian archives, will take you on queer history tours to the historic sites of South Africa’s struggle for LGBT rights: from the infamous 1966 police raid on the Forest Town gay party to Mrs Phadi’s 1980s gay tavern in Soweto.

3. Own a piece of cultural activism. Joburg is home to South Africa’s acclaimed lesbian photographer, Zanele Muholi, who documents the often perilous lives of black lesbian women. Her work is available for sale from Stevenson Gallery in Braamfontein. Contact the gallery to arrange to view its catalogue (see Galleries). See Culture & Events for her latest exhibition, Queer and Trans Art-iculations: Collaborative Art for Social Change (with Gabrielle le Roux), on until March 30.

4. Make a gay night of it! Chow down on some of the best burgers in town at the retro-themed Beefcakes (complete with topless waiters and drag shows) in Illovo, and party next door at Babylon into the wee hours of the morning.

5. Watch some of South Africa and the world’s best gay films at the Out in Africa Film Festival (check www.oia. co.za for dates).

6. Lunch in 4th Ave, Parkhurst with the gay and fabulous.

Take your pick of the many pavement restaurants and be prepared to strut your stuff (see Where To Eat).

7. Treat yourself. Joburg has a plethora of world-class gay-friendly spas, from the Saxon hotel to Mount Grace, just outside the city.

8. Marry the love of your life. Same-sex marriage is legal in South Africa. The city is dotted with wedding venues, or tie the knot in a hot-air balloon at sunset (Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris, +27 11 705 3201, www.balloon.co.za).

9. Experience a night out in Soweto. Get queer locals to take you to gay-friendly hotspots. Stay at the gayfriendly Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers in Orlando West (see Soweto).

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Nightlife Babylon Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3215. A straight-laced restaurant complex may be a strange location for a pumping gay club, but then there’s not much you don’t find in Joburg. Expect dark lighting, pounding trance music and sexy barmen grinding on the bar counter clad in their Y-fronts. Gays, straights and lesbians all welcome. Cover charge from R30.QOpen 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Beefcakes Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 114 475 266, www.beefcakes.co.za. Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular topless men, this place is almost more popular with gangs of horny ladies in glittery cowboy hats than with the gay men it was originally intended for. The Beefcakes stage sees action every night, with fun drag shows and camp cabaret starting at 20:30. It’s wise to book a table in advance.

QOpen 12:00 until the last guest leaves. Closed Mon. K

Gay and lesbian wedding venues EnGedi Hotel Protea Ridge Honingklip Rd, Kromdraai, tel. +27 86 136 4334, www.engedi.co.za. An oasis in the Cradle of Humankind with a picturesque mountainrange backdrop.

Valverde Country Hotel Beyers Naude Ext, Lammermoor, Muldersdrift, tel. +27 82 778 7089, valverde. co.za. An eco-friendly hotel near the Cradle of Humankind.

Valverde hosts regular free mini-wedding expos showcasing everything you need down to the smallest detail, including stationery, photography, music and cakes.

Spas Mount Grace Country House & Spa Rustenburg Rd, Magaliesburg, +27 14 577 5600, www.mountgrace. co.za.

Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za/the-spa-leading. html. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JOBURG LIFESTYLEGAY DIRECTORY Locals like to be pampered. There’s no shortage of hair salons, nail bars, day spas and Thai massages to be found across the city.

Beauty Laserderm 66 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 9232, www.laserderm-sa.com. Get the latest non-surgical cosmetic treatments here: laser, Fraxel, Botox, chemical peels, and CoolSculpting (said to melt fat away).QOpen 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00 L Lash & Brow Bar 62 St James Crescent, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 8471, www.lashandbrowbar.co.za. For impressive eyelashes, it would be hard to beat Tamlin Joannides and her team. Brow-tinting and shaping, facials, manicures, pedicures, waxes and massages are also offered.QOpen Tue–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. L Sorbet Parktown Quarter, Cnr 7th and 3rd Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 3491, www.sorbet. co.za. With branches just about everywhere, Sorbet is a one-stop-shop for waxing, facials, massages, hair and nail treatments in a no-fuss environment.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:00–15:00 LW

Hair salons Carlton Hair Shop SL38, Melrose Arch, Melrose,

tel. +27 11 684 1251, www.melrosearch.co.za. This is the place to get glamour cuts and colour for men and women. Branches in most major shopping malls. Call for an appointment.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sat 08:00-17:00, Sun 08:00-15:00. L Salon Roma Cnr 7th Ave and 29 1st Ave East, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 5940. Strong espresso and a roomful of Italian barbers each with their own cubicle and fond memories of home.QOpen Mon–Sat 07:30–17:30. L Sorbet Dry Bar Dunkeld Shopping Centre, Shop 2A, Cnr Bompas Rd and Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2921, www.sorbet.co.za. A quick and affordable blow-dry bar offering eight styles at a flat rate of R165, plus a range of manicure and pedicure treatments.QOpen 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. LW Wyatt Shop 16A, 44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 6111, http://44stanley. co.za/shop/wyatt-hairdressing-barbering. Get a great cut at this über-chic hairdressing and barber salon. Also worth visiting for the super-stylish decor and the stylists’ cuttingedge looks.QOpen Tue–Thu 09:00-17:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat 09:00–18:00. Booking necessary LW Xpertease Village Green Shopping Centre, 127 Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3705, www.xperteasehair. co.za. Cut, colour, blow in any style you want. Great service.

QOpen Tue–Fri 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. LW

Make-up and cosmetics M.A.C Cosmetics Shop HL 11, 3 Cross St, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1186, www.maccosmetics.co.za. With branches in Sandton City and Rosebank, the M.A.C store is the go-to place for professionally applied makeup and a range to make any colour addict truly happy.

Purchase products to the value of R420 and get your makeup done as a bonus. Advance booking required.QOpen Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. L Metropolitain Cosmetics The Cobbles Centre, 4th Ave (cnr 11th Ave), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 6771, www.metropolitaincosmetics.co.za. Branches in Sandton City, Hyde Park Corner and Melrose Arch, Metropolitain stocks an impressive range of imported cosmetics and fragrance brands.QOpen Mon–Sat 10:00–14:00, 14:30–17:00. L johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nail bars Polish Shop 5, The Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Wells

and Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 7952, www.polishnailspa.co.za. A haven for hands and feet, this is a pampering nail spa in a designer setting with a great gift section.QMon–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. LW

Sorbet Nail Bar Shop 57, Hyde Park Corner, cnr 6th Rd

and Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4740, www.sorbet.co.za. Specialises in express or deluxe nail treatments, manicures and pedicures.QOpen 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. LW Toast Hewstone, 54 Buckingham Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 325 5184, www.toastandco.co.za. A stylish pampering spot offering manicures and pedicures plus a range of spa treatments. They also stock a covetable range of costume jewellery, shoes and accessories.QOpen Mon, Sat 9:00–16:00, Tue–Fri 09:00–18:00. Closed Sun.

Spas and therapeutic massage Africology at The Maslow The Maslow Hotel, cnr

Rivonia Rd and Grayston Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4688, www.africology-sa.com. Africology’s product range uses indigenous ingredients such as marula and rooibos for their healing properties. This hotel spa also caters to groups of friends and couples. Facials, hydrotherapy, detoxing wraps and massage are on the menu. There’s also a branch at The Zone @ Rosebank.QOpen 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. A full-body massage (75 minutes) costs R595. L Sinzinani Spa Thaba Ya Batswana Eco Hotel & Spa, Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.tyb.co.za. Relaxing African bush spa in a beautiful nature reserve just a 20-minute drive from Joburg.

Pre-order a picnic hamper, book into the eco hotel, breathe in the fresh air and make it a trip to remember.QSpa open Mon 08:00–16:00, Tue 08:00–17:00, Wed, Thu 08:00–19:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Fairlawns Spa Alma Rd, Morningside Manor Ext. 6, Sandton, tel. +27 11 808 7300, www.fairlawns.co.za.

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel’s award-winning spa emphasises peace and tranquillity. Treatments use traditional south-east Asian clays and oils. Bird life and the sound of running water complete the picture.QOpen 09:00–20:00. A full-body Swedish massage (60 minutes) costs R650.

Life Day Spa 26 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 2255, www.lifedayspa.co.za. An award-winning day spa with a heated indoor spa pool, flotation pool, sauna and steam room. This tranquil spa offers a range of body treatments.Q Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri–Sun 09:00–17:00.

Public holidays 09:00–17:00. A full-body Swedish massage (60 minutes) costs R490. L

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SPORT & OUTDOORS Golf and golf courses Joburg is a golfers’ paradise with more golf courses in one city than probably anywhere else in the world.

Factor in great weather and highly competitive pricing and it’s no wonder this town has a major share of golfing fanatics. Clubs are mostly closed on Mondays but open at 06:00 or 06:30 during the rest of the week.

Clothing Smart-casual golf attire is required.

Caddies A caddy is virtually always available. In addition to the caddy fee you’ll have to pay R15 to the caddy foundation as well as a tip, which should be 50% higher than the amount the caddy master will tell you is the minimum.

Renting clubs Get them from the megastore devoted to all things golf, Pro Shop (8 Waterval Cres. South, Woodmead Ext 5, Sandton, tel. +27 11 602 8888, www.theproshop.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–13:00. Prices start from R350).

Last-minute bookings If you have left it too late, try www.lastminutegolf.co.za for a booking.

Handicap A bit complicated but it may be worth getting an official handicap if you are planning on more than a few games during your visit (see www.golfclub.co.za).

Glendower Golf Club 20 Marais Rd, Dowerglen Ext 2, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 453 1013, www.glendower. co.za. A long and highly challenging course.Q Open Tue–Sun. First tee-off at 07:00. Weekdays R395, kids and students R150, golf-cart hire R350. LK

Tour de Jozi For fitness freaks, athletics addicts and lovers of the outdoors, this city is heaven. With so many hours of sunshine and green spaces to enjoy, here are some suggestions for how to get your fix.

Cycling For avid cyclists, you’re in the right place. The last Friday of each month is Critical Mass (see Culture & Events).

Tour de Jozi (www.tourdejozi.co.za) is a Sunday ride through less-visited parts of the city. And if your prefer a less urban trail, see Mountainbike Routes for rides along the Braamfontein Spruit (www.mtbroutes.co.za), a route of up to 40km of the city’s green belt, mostly along single footpaths.

Cycle Lab Cnr William Nicol Drv and Leslie Rd, Four-

ways, tel. +27 11 707 4704, http://cyclelab.com.

The largest cycling shop in the southern hemisphere. Great for top-of-the-range bikes and equipment.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–13:00.

Mike’s Bikes 41A Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel.

+27 11 888 8868, mikesbikes.co.za. A lifestyle choice rather than just a store, this is a popular stop for mountain, custom and retro-bike rides.QOpen Mon–Fri 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:30–13:00.

Whippet Cycling Co. G-4, Maverick Corner, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 842 2012. A designer store with beautiful vintage and modern bikes.QOpen Wed–Sun 11:00–15:00.

For sports events, see Culture & Events Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Houghton Golf Club 2nd Ave, Houghton, tel. +27 11 728 7337, houghton.clubhouseonline-e3.com. The world’s only Jack Nicklaus golf course located in a city.

QOpen to visitors Tue, Wed, Fri from first tee-off at 06:28, Thu mornings, Sun afternoons and public holidays. Nine holes R100, 18 holes R200, caddies R90, golf carts R120. LK Parkview Golf Club Cnr Wicklow and Emmarentia Aves, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 5400, w w w. parkviewgolf.co.za. This club has the best 19th-hole possible.QOpen for visitors Tue–Fri, Sun. Tee-off 06:35.

18 holes from R195, caddies R70, golf carts R120. LK Royal Johannesburg and Kensington Golf Club 1 Fairway Ave, Linksfield North, tel. +27 11 640 3021, www.royaljk.za.com. The East Course is probably the best course in the city and is the home of the Jo’burg Open.QNot open for visitors Sat. First tee-off 07:00.

Weekdays 18 holes R500, weekends R550. LK Sun City Lost City and Gary Player Course Sun City Resort, off the R556, Northwest Province, tel. +27 14 557 3700, www.suninternational.com/sun-city.

Around two hours away by car, these two courses are a must if you want to play the same course that virtually every significant pro has played at some stage.QLost City closed Tue, Gary Player closed Mon. Tee-off from 8am. 18 holes from R690, hiring clubs R400. LK Wanderers Golf Club Cnr Corlett Dr and Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3311, www.wanderersgolfclub.com. It may not be the most demanding course in Johannesburg, but the Wanderers is certainly the most welcoming to visitors.QWeekdays R207, Sat–Sun R277, golf cart R200, clubs for hire R150. LK

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SPORT & OUTDOORS Gyms and fitness centres

Sports centres & swimming

The two major gym brands are Virgin Active and Planet Fitness. Both have luxury flagship branches in Sandton and both offer fitness and yoga classes. For additional listings, see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

The Wanderers Club 21 North St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 5010, www.thewanderersclub.co.za. Historic sporting club offering an extensive range of sports. The running club leaves every Sunday at 07:00 for a 10–15km run.

Planet Fitness Wanderers MegaClub 21 North Rd,

Zoo Lake Swimming Pool Cnr Prince of Wales and Lower Park Drv, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 8495.QOpen 10:00–17:45. Adults R8, children R4.

Illovo, tel. +27 11 327 0606, www.planetfitness.co.za.

QOpen 04:00–22:00, Fri 04:00–21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:00–20:00. R150 a day for non-members. Bring proof of identity. LDC

Virgin Active Old Eds 11 9th Ave, Lower Houghton, tel. +27 11 483 1298, www.virginactive.co.za.QOpen:

Mon-Thu 05:00–21:30, Fri 05:00–21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:00–20:00. R150 a day for non-members. Bring proof of identity. LDC

Parks In this most treed of cities there is no shortage of scenic green spaces for picnics and long walks. While generally safe it is worth being mindful by not bringing valuables, or walking the paths less travelled or being in any park after dark. For a list of city parks see www.jhbcityparks.com.

Botanical Gardens and Emmarentia Dam Olifants

Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. This sprawling green oasis has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks or kicking around a soccer ball and a pretty terraced formal rose garden.QOpen 06:00–18:00.

Delta Environmental Centre Cnr Rd 3 and Craighall

Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 888 4831, www.deltaenviro.org.za. One of the biggest green lungs in the city with stretches of grassland and woodland. The park houses an environmental centre and has a sensory trail for the sightimpaired.QOpen 08:30–16:00.

James and Ethel Grey Park Cnr Westwood Ave and

North St, Melrose. A large hilly park with a stream running through it that boasts extraordinary views of the downtown skyline. Popular with dog walkers, joggers and kids on bikes.

Melville Koppies Nature Reserve Cnr Judith Rd and

Orange Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org. za. The Melville Koppies (means small hill in Afrikaans) is an archaeological treasure with artefacts from the Stone Age and Iron Age. There are a number of guided walks and hikes offered monthly.QOpen 08:00–19:00. Admission R40, children R10.

Zoo Lake Prince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. A premier green space where you can feed the ducks, set up a picnic, or eat at the child-friendly Africanthemed restaurant, Moyo. Popular with walkers and runners, and just about everyone else. Best to visit during the week.

QOpen 10:00–21:00.

Running clubs The Zoo Lake has a flat running track and is popular with walkers and runners, but if you prefer a crowd these are some suggestions.

Nike Running Club, www.braamfierunners.com. A free weekly street run that departs from the Nike shop, at The Zone @ Rosebank on Wednesdays at 17:15. On weekends join the Nike runners on Sat mornings at 09:00, at 153 Smit Street, Braamfontein. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Wild city Johannesburg Zoo Jan Smuts Ave (entrance on Upper Park Dr), Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org.za. Walk on the wild side on more than 81 hectares, with plenty of pretty picnic spots and an impressive collection of creatures. Q Open 08:30–17:30. Admission R58, children and pensioners R36. TULBK Lion Park Cnr Malibong we Dr and R114 Rd, Honeydew, tel. +27 11 691 9905, www.lion-park. com. Newsweek voted it one of the top 100 tourist destinations in the world. It also offers a cheetah walk, self-drives, guided tours plus you can sleep over at the Wildside Tented Camp.QOpen 09:00–21:00 Admission R270, children R170. TLK Montecasino Bird Gardens Montecasino Blvd, cnr

William Nicol and Witkoppen Rds, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Hundreds of fascinating bird species. Try to visit in time for the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows, on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QOpen Mon–Fri, Sun 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–18:00. Admission for adults and children over 10, R53; pensioners and children under 10, R30. TULBK

Outdoors with the family Acrobranch Melrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 78 438 7463, www.acrobranch.co.za. Test your skills and mettle by zip-lining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area. Strict safety procedures apply, and children and adults are well taken care of.QOpen 09:00–15:00. Prices start at R80 for ages 3-6, R110 for age 7 to adults. Up to R190 depending on course. T Amazing Mazes 82 Boland St, Honeydew, tel.

+27 73 795 2174, www.honeydewmazes.co.za.

A treasure hunt in a giant plant maze, and many other activities. Takes up to four hours.QOpen Sat, Sun and public holidays 10:00–17:00. Last ticket sales at 14:30.

R70 for kids under 16, R100 for adults. T

Gold Reef City Cnr Northern Parkway and Data

Cres, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. The best amusement and theme park with rides and attractions for all ages. Extreme rides like the Anaconda, Jozi Express and Tower of Terror are for the brave. You can also take a trip underground to visit a disused mine shaft.QOpen 09:30–17:00 during school holidays (March 29–April 6), otherwise Wed–Sun 09:30–17:00. Admission R165. TULBK

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JOBURG FOR KIDS Child-friendly restaurants Bambanani 85 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2900,

www.bambanani.biz. For young families it doesn’t get much better than this. Kids get the run of the indoor and outdoor play areas with full-time child minders and plenty of activities.

Adults can take refuge inside with a meal and a bottle of wine.

It gets busy, so book ahead.QOpen Tue–Fri 09:00–20:00; Sat, Sun and public holidays 08:00–21:00. IB

Munch at the Garden Shop Cnr Main and Halifax Rds, Bryanston, www.munchcafe.co.za. Perfect for brunch or tea in a picturesque green setting. Kids love feeding the bunnies and ogling the reptiles, snakes, spiders and fish in the shop at this garden centre. There’s plenty of space to run around safely.QOpen Mon–Sun 08:00–17:00. LB Pappachino’s Cnr Cullinan Close and Rivonia Rd, Morn-

ingside, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 1090, www.papachinos.co.za. A win-win setup for families. Kids get to make their own pizzas, select from their own menus and scream around the fun activity area, while adults can sit down to cocktails and a menu of meat dishes, pastas, wraps and salads.QOpen Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 08:30–16:30. B

Educational activities National Children’s Theatre 3 Junction Ave, Park-

town, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. A regular programme of theatre productions and workshops for children. The productions are of good quality and the theatre space is cleverly designed to let the smallest kids get a perfect view of the action on stage.QTickets from R90. LK

Sci-Bono Discovery Centre B-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba

and President Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono.co.za. Get switched on at Joburg’s science museum. Regular themed exhibitions and talks that make science fun are part of the programme.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 09:30–16:30. Admission for adults R20, children R10. LK

Funfairs and entertainment centres The Fun Company The Zone @ Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4099, www.thefuncompany.co.za. Ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, pool tables and an awesome arcade games room and candy station. The Fun Company is surrounded by retail attractions, a movie house and loads of restaurants.QOpen Mon–Sun 09:00–00:00. L

Activities Art Jamming Shop 27, Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose,

tel. +27 11 684 1608, www.artjamming.co.za. ‘Paintertainment’ for all ages. Grab a canvas, some paint and be inspired. There’s plenty of inspiration provided and you get to take your artwork home.QOpen Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. Public holidays 09:00–15:00. Canvases start at R135. L

Jozi X Cnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, www.jozix.co.za. Caters for super-active kids between 5 and 75. There’s mountain boarding, a slackline park, big-wheel trike drifting, a parkour gymnasium and the star attraction: an extreme wipeout course.QOpen Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00. Wed–Fri from R100; Sat, Sun from R120. L Lasertag Shop G45 Brightwater Commons, Republic Rd, Randburg, tel. +27 11 789 3036, www.brightwatercommons.co.za. You’re in an abandoned building and it’s dark, save for some lumo lights. Clad in body armour it’s time to hunt your opponents down. Don’t wear white – you’ll be a sitting duck.QTues–Thu 11:30–20:00, Fri 11:30–23:00, Sat 09:30–23:00, Sun 10:00–20:00. Open public holidays.

R40 for 15 mins, R60 for 30 mins. Ask about group rates. L Rock Paper Scissors Cnr Susman Ave and Morell Rd,

Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 84 693 2160. A fun activity space for small children with lots of creative arts and craft activities, a maze to climb and different play areas.QOpen Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Prices depend on activities selected. i

Wild Waters Boksburg Rondebult Rd, off N12, Boks-

burg, tel. +27 11 826 6736, www.wildwatersboksburg. co.za. A ‘beach’ about 30 minutes east Johannesburg with nine thrilling water activities including the super tube, raging rapids, a wave pool, kiddies slides and a speed slide. Pack plenty of sun screen.QOpen 10:00-16:00. Park closes at 17:00. Ages 2-7 R65, 8+ R125, pensioners R75. L

Out and about with children Tanya Kovarsky is a Joburg-based writer, editor and trainer, and blogs at www.rattleandmum. co.za and www.dearmax.org. She uses her time running after her son, Max, to train for the Comrades Marathon. These are her suggestions: 1. Take a walk on the wild side through the Joburg Zoo.* 2. Visit Gold Reef City,* the city’s best amusement and theme park.

3. Get switched on at Sci-Bono Discovery Centre where science and education meet play.

4. Head to the top of the City Sightseeing Red Bus for some perfect vantage-point sightseeing (see Tours).

5. Row a boat at Zoo Lake,* a beautiful green space with lots of activities.

6. Make pizzas at a Pappachino’s restaurant.

7. Visit Montecasino Bird Garden* for the incredible array of birds.

8. Watch a classic on stage at The National Children’s Theatre.

9. Pat lion cubs, feed giraffes and walk cheetahs at the Lion Park.* 10. Go for brunch or tea at Munch at the Garden Shop where kids get to feed the small animals. * See Sport & Outdoors.

Battlezone Paintball Cnr Main Rd and Sloane St,

Bryanston, tel. 0861 468 242, www.battlezone.co.za.

Great for ages 14 and under, but also suitable for adults. It’s a battlezone out there with battlefield terrains, places to hide and plenty of sniper opportunities. Helmets and guns are provided. Blast away.QMon–Sat sessions at 08:30–11:30, 11:30–14:30, 14:30–17:30. Open Sun 10:00–13:00, 13:00–16:00. Basic packages from R120.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

OUT SPORT OF TOWN: & OUTDOORS PRETORIA Overshadowed by the sexier Joburg, Pretoria’s main claim to fame is as the administrative capital of South Africa. It was founded in 1855 and was named after the Voortrekker leader, Andries Pretorius. It is also called the Jacaranda City because of the thousands of trees that, each spring, dress the city in a haze of purple blooms. Just 50km away, Pretoria is a gentle antidote to Joburg’s bustle. The city has a remarkably rich history that makes a visit worthwhile. It is also known by its official name of Tshwane.

Getting there Pretoria is a 40-minute drive on the M1 from Joburg.

Alternatively, you can reach it in a flash on the Gautrain.

The journey from Sandton to the centre of Pretoria takes just over 25 minutes and costs R50.

Sightseeing Church Square Pretoria Central. In the middle of the square stands Dutch-born sculpture Anton van Wouw’s bronze statue of Paul Kruger, the 19th-century South African leader who became known as an icon of Boer resistance to British rule. Van Wouw is regarded as the father of South African sculpture. Nearby is the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela and his compatriots were tried and sentenced to life in prison during the famous Rivonia Trial of 1964. Other historic buildings include the Raadsaal (government) building, the Capitol Theatre and the Nederlandsche Bank building.

Freedom Park Cnr Koch

St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 336 4000/0800 470 740 (toll free), www.freedompark. co.za. South Africa’s history and heritage is memorialised in the 52-hectare Freedom Park, which is themed around humanity, freedom and healing. Visiting is a humbling experience as you get to appreciate the different struggles along the path to democracy. The most striking of the many thought-provoking memorials is the vast Wall of Names that lists the heroes and heroines who died in the fight to end political oppression in the country. A guided tour is highly recommended. Combine a visit with a trip to the nearby Voortrekker Monument for a strikingly different perspective on the South African story.

QTours leave at 09:00, 12:00 and 15:00 and can last up to two hours. Guided tours from R45.

Groenkloof Nature Reserve, tel. +27 12 440 8316,

www.tshwane.gov.za/Services/Nature%20Conservation. Africa’s oldest game reserve is a green oasis just 4km from the city centre. The reserve is home to giraffe, zebra, blue wildebeest, ostrich, kudu, sable, impala and red hartebeest. Because there aren’t any dangerous animals, visitors can walk in the park. Groenkloof offers more than 17km of hiking trails, a 14km 4x4 trail, 20km of mountain-biking trails, overnight facilities and a picnic area. The guided horse trails are excellent value for money at R110 for a two-hour ride.

QOpen summer (Sep-Apr) 05:30–19:00, winter (May-Aug) 07:00–18:00.

 The Pretoria telephone code is +27 (0)12 johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Hatfield Square Hatfield, Pretoria. The suburb of Hatfield, home to the University of Pretoria, is student central. To get a taste of this visit Hatfield Square for cheap eats and drinks.

For budget eats, grab a falafel wrap at Uncle Faouzi’s; for cocktails try Cheeky Monkey and for something more upmarket lunch at the trendy Ginger and Fig on Lynwood Road. The Hatfield Market is held on the last Sunday of every month and is great for all kinds of funky merchandise, chic clothing, décor and art. The Hatfield Antiques & Collectables Fair is held on the first Sunday of every month.

Pretoria National Botanical Garden Turn off N1 at R104 (Pretoria St), tel. +27 12 348 1265. Pack a picnic and head to the gardens for a walk along its paved nature trails. There are over 70 hectares to explore filled with indigenous vegetation. Enjoy lunch under the shady trees, or try to identify some of the 198 bird species that live here.QOpen 08:00–18:00. Admission R50, children R10.

Pretoria Zoo 232 Boom St, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 328 3265, www.nzg.ac.za. Pretoria Zoo (officially the National Zoological Gardens of South Africa) is the largest zoo in the country and perfect for a family outing. Take comfy shoes because the zoo features over 6km of walkways and is on a slope. If you have young kids, it’s worth hiring a golf cart to make the best of your day. Some of the more interesting species include Komodo dragons, gorillas and okapi. The zoo also features the biggest inland aquarium in the southern hemisphere, a reptile park and over 200 bird species. A highlight is the cable car, which runs to the top of a hill overlooking the city, with panoramic 360-degree views of the animal enclosures and beyond to the Union Buildings. A restaurant and various kiosks as well as picnic spots and braai facilities are available. The zoo gets very busy on weekends and public holidays with busloads of families and church groups picnicking on the grounds. Avoid the masses and visit on a weekday.QOpen 08:30–17:30. Admission R75, kids R50.

Union Buildings Government Ave, Pretoria. Designed by

Sir Herbert Baker to mark the Union of South Africa in 1910, the Union Buildings are the official office of the President. The 270m-long building is divided into three units, and is set on a hill overlooking Pretoria. President Mandela was inaugurated here in 1994. The name of the Union Buildings amphitheatre, was changed to the Nelson Mandela Amphitheatre following his death. Mandela’s body lay here in state for three days while South Africans queued to pay a last tribute to him. The recently installed 9m-tall bronze statue by André Prinsloo and Ruhan Janse van Vuuren became controversial after a bronze bunny was discovered in the statue’s ear.

Voortrekker Monument Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof,

Pretoria, tel. +27 12 326 6770, www.vtm.org.za.

Pretoria’s most famous monument was inaugurated in 1938 to commemorate the Great Trek – the often treacherous journey that Boer farming families undertook during the 1830s and 1840s from the Cape Colony to escape British control. The imposing 40m-high granite structure is located on a hill in the 240-hectare Voortrekker Monument and Nature Reserve, which is also a great picnic spot. Look out for the monthly Park Acoustics concerts that take place on Fort Schanskop.QOpen winter (May–Aug) 08:00–17:00, summer (Sep–Apr) 08:00–18:00. Admission R50, kids R25.

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OUT OF TOWN: PRETORIA Duncan Yard Cnr Jan Shoba (formerly Duncan St) and

Prospect Sts, Hatfield, Pretoria, www.duncanyard.co.za.

For a more boutique Hatfield experience, head to the arty Duncan Yard. The location has a bohemian feel with quirky independent shops tucked into hidden corners. Lunch at Deli on Duncan for delicious pastries and salads.

Gary Player Golf Course, Sun City

Restaurants, cafés and bars Café Riche 2 Church Square, Pretoria City Centre, tel.

+27 12 328 3173. For an al fresco breakfast plus a chance to people watch on Church Square, head to Café Riche, the oldest café in Pretoria. Housed in a 20th-century building, the place is famous for its milkshakes and freshly baked pastries. There are many great places in the area to grab a breakfast and coffee, including Tribeca on Madiba Street.

QOpen 06:00–18:00.

Ginger and Fig Shop 5, Brooklyn Centre, 751 Jan Shoba St (formerly Duncan St), Brooklyn, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 362 5926, www.gingerandfig.co.za. Local ingredients prepared with care. The signature sweet-potato crisps are unforgettable.QOpen Mon 07:00–17:30, Tue–Fri 06:00–21:00, Sat 07:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–13:00.

Pure Café 137 Thomson St, West Colbyn, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 342 1443. Healthy, delicious food. The smoothies have fantastic names, like Monkey Punch and Paradise Explosion.QOpen 07:15–16:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. W Toni’s Pizza 676 Chamberlain St (cnr 18th Ave), Deer-

nis, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 329 9000, www.tonipizza. co.za. Pizzas with exotic toppings.QOpen 12:00–21:00.

Sun 11:00–15:30. Closed Mon.

Tribeca Coffee 220 Madiba St (formerly Vermeulen St), Pretoria CBD, tel. +27 12 321 8876, www.tribeca. co.za. Excellent breakfast and pre-office hangout.QOpen 07:00–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Uncle Faouzi 1102 Burnett St (Hatfield Sq), Hatfield, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 342 8888, www.unclefaouzi.com.A late-night halaal kebab stop.QOpen Sun–Wed 08:00–02:00, Thu–Sat 24/7.

Shopping Antique Route 6 Around Soutpansberg Rd and Pierneef St, www.antiqueroute6pretoria.co.za. Pretoria has a fantastic collection of antique stores full of great vintage bargains, from furniture and collectables to albums and clothing. Antique Route 6 consists of 12 unique shops within a 5km radius. Start at Pure Café for a coffee or breakfast, which is adjacent to your first stop, An-tea-k Kettle, and don’t miss the fantastic vintage memorabilia at Bellbottoms on Pierneef Street. When you’re done shopping, reward yourself with a meal at Toni’s Pizza, the perfect lunch stop on the route.

Boeremark Pioneers Museum Grounds, Keuning St,

Silverton, Pretoria, tel. +27 82 416 3900, www.pretoriaboeremark.co.za. If you’re an early riser, head to the Boeremark (Farmers’ Market) early on a Saturday morning for fresh produce and homemade goodies straight from the farm.QEvery Sat 05:30–09:30.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Hazel Food Market Greenlyn Village Centre, Thomas Edison St, Pretoria, tel. +27 83 554 5636. For the best foodie market in Pretoria head here on a Saturday morning.

Stock up on organic vegetables, deli meats, biltong, artisan breads and cheeses. There’s even a play area for the kids.

QEvery Sat 08:00–14:00.

Further afield Cradle of Humankind – 58km A World Heritage Site that is home to around 40% of the Earth’s human ancestor fossils. www.maropeng.co.za/cradleofhumankind Magaliesberg – 67km One of the world’s oldest mountain ranges and an area with a wide range of weekend getaway hotels, outdoor activities and attractions. www.magaliesberg.co.za Hartebeespoort – 73km A small resort town in the North-West Province with a dam as one of its major attractions and plenty of family activities. www.hartbeespoortonline.co.za Cullinan – 95km Historic mining town east of Pretoria famed for the discovery of world’s largest diamond, 3106 carats. www.cullinan.za.net Parys – 108km Afrikaans for Paris, this quaint town with its strip of antique stores and restaurants lies on the banks of the Free State’s Vaal River. www.parys.co.za Sun City – 200km The premier luxury casino resort situated in the North West province. The complex includes four hotels, two world-class golf courses and activities to keep any family happy. www.suncity.co.za Pilanesberg – 214km A national park that is home to the Big Five as well as an astonishing array of plant species. www.pilanesberg-game-reserve.co.za Dullstroom – 257km South Africa’s premier flyfishing village in Mpumalanga province. www.dullstroom.co.za Kruger National Park – 544km One of Africa’s largest game reserves covering close to 20 000 square kilometres in the provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga. www.sanparks.org

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY Accountants and finance South African Institute of Chartered Accountants (SAICA) 7 Zulberg Cl, Bruma Lake, tel. 0861 072 422,

www.saica.co.za. The foremost accountancy body upholding the standards of the profession in South Africa.

South African Revenue Service 25 Hill St, Randburg, tel. 0800 007 277, www.sars.gov.za.

Conference centres Coca-Cola Dome Corner Olievenhout Ave and Northum-

berland Rd, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www. coca-coladome.co.za.

FNB Conference Centre, Sandton 114 Grayston Dr, Sandown, Sandton, tel. +27 87 032 8000, www. fnbconference.fnbweb.co.za.

Gallagher Convention Centre 19 Richards Drive, Midrand, tel. +27 11 266 3000, www.gallagher.co.za.

Expo Centre Johannesburg Cnr Rand Show and Nasrec Rds, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 494 1920, www. expocentrejhb.co.za.

Sandton Convention Centre Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za.

For fully equipped office rental, meeting rooms, hot-desking solutions and corporate workspaces.

Postage and printing Foto First Shop U7, The Rosebank Mews, 16 Cradock

Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4056, www.fotofirst. co.za.

Jetline Print on Demand Shop UG 03/4, Cradock Sq, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 3324, www.jetline.co.za.

Kodak Express Shop L65, Sandton City Shopping Centre, cnr Rivonia Rd and Sandton Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 7754, www.kodakexpress.com.

Postnet 22 Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 442 4720, www.postnet.co.za. With branches in Sandton, Illovo, Rosebank and other centres, Postnet specialises in copying, printing and courier and postal services.

Real estate agencies Mafadi Investments The Main Change, 20 Kruger St,

DM Kisch Inc. (patent, trademark and copyright attorneys) 5 Inanda Greens Business Park, 54 Wierda

Maboneng, tel. +27 11 592 0513, www.mafadi.co.za.

Residential, commercial and retail property rental and sales in the City Centre and surrounding areas. As well as helping re-develop downtown residential buildings and areas, Mafadi also assists with property management for people interested in buy-to-let.

Pam Golding Investment Place, 2nd Rd (off William Nicol Dr), Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 380 0000, www. pamgolding.co.za. Long-term and short-term residential property rental and property sales.

Norton Rose Fulbright (inc. Deneys Reitz Inc.)

Recruitment

Legal services Bowman Gilfillan (corporate and commercial law)

165 West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 669 9178, www. bowman.co.za.

Rd West, Wierda Valley, Sandton, tel. +27 11 324 3081, www.dmkisch.com.

15 Alice Ln, Sandton, tel. +27 11 685 85000, www. nortonrosefulbright.com/za.

Webber Wentzel 10 Fricker Rd, Illovo Blvd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 530 5000, www.webberwentzel.com. In alliance with Linklaters.

Moving and relocation Eddies Transport 90 11th Rd, Kew, tel. +27 11 440 1500, www.bayleyworldwide.co.za.

Girls On The Move 5 Thora Cres., Wynberg, tel. +27 82 897 6556, girlsonthemove.co.za.

Stuttafords Van Lines 23 Axle Dr, Clayville Olifantsfontein Midrand, tel. +27 11 206 1500, www.stuttafordvanlines.co.za.

Office rental and workspaces Cube Office Space 134 River Rd, Barbeque Downs, Kyalami, tel. 086 111 2823, www.cubeworkspace. co.za. Professional, serviced office solutions, including office rental space, virtual offices and conference rooms.

Open 4th floor, The Main Change, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 200 9000, www.theopen.co.za.

A collaborative community workspace for creatives and professionals, complete with gourmet coffee and an Astro Turf mini-putt putt course. Open works on a membership basis for individuals and small businesses, and on a voucher system for occasional use.QR500 to R3 000 per month for individuals depending on option selected.

Property 24, www.property24.com. A website for commercial and residential property rental and sales.

Regus Metropolitan Park, 1st floor, Block B and C, 8 Hillside Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 510 0500, www. regus.co.za/office-space/south-africa/johannesburg. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Department of Labour 318 Oak Ave, Randburg, tel. +27 11 781 8144, www.labour.gov.za. The department of the South African government responsible for matters related to employment, including industrial relations, job creation, unemployment insurance and occupational health and safety.

Technology repairs Gienius Shop C8, Hobart Grove Shopping Centre, cnr

Hobart and Grosvenor Rds, Bryanston, tel. 0861 188 888, www.gienius.co.za. Repairs and servicing of all major phone brands as well as Apple devices. A courier can be booked for collection and delivery of devices. Stores also at Eastgate Mall (+27 11 616 0772) and East Rand Mall (+27 11 826 4957). iFix, tel. +27 11 684 1688, www.ifix.co.za. Repair of all Apple and Samsung devices. Get a quote online.

Translators and intepreters Multilingua Africa 32 3rd St (cnr 9th Ave), Melville,

tel. +27 11 477 4380, www.multilingua-africa.co.za.

Translation, interpretation and recruitment across all major southern African and European languages.

Soror Language Services 480 Pelikaan St, Randparkridge, tel. +27 11 793 6677, www.sls.org.za.

Translation services offered in over 150 languages (European, African and Asian).

South African Translators’ Institute, tel. +27 11 803 2681, translators.org.za. Professional association for language professionals in South Africa. Connects clients with translators, interpreters, editors, proofreaders, text reviewers, terminologists, copywriters and anyone else involved in the language practice industry.

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STREET INDEX: CITY CENTRE 1st St (Troyeville) H-3 2nd St (Troyeville) H-3 3rd St (Troyeville) H-3 4th St (Troyeville) H-3 5th St (Troyeville) H-3 6th St (Troyeville) H-3 7th St (Troyeville) G-3 8th St (Troyeville) G-3/4 9th St G-4 A Albert St D/E/F/G-5 Albertina Sisulu Rd 45 Albrecht St G-4/5 Alexander St B-5 Ameshoff St C-2 Anderson St 5 Andries St H-4 Angle St G-4 Auret St G-4/5 B Barney Simon St B-4 Beacon St G-4 Beaufort St H-4 Beit St F/G-3 Bertha St C-2/3 Betrams St H-2/3 Betty St G-4/5 Biccard St C-2/3 Bree St 4 Buxton St F-3/4 C Carr St A/B/C-4 Central Rd A-4/5 Charles St F-4 Charlton Terrace G-2 Clare Rd A-5 Clarence St H-4 Commercial Rd A-5 Commissioner St 54 Cornelius St E-5 Currey St G-3 D Davies St F-3/4 Dawe St H-4 De Beer St C-2/3 De Korte St B/C/D-2/3 De Villiers St D-3 Delvers St E-5

Diagonal St C-4/5 Dolly Rathebe Rd A-4 Dora St G-2/3 Droste Crescent H-6 Durban St E/F/G-5 E Edith Cavell St E-4 Eendracht St B-2/3 Eloff St D-3/4/5 Empire Rd A/B/C/D-1 End St F-3/4/5 Enoch Sontonga Ave A-2 Erin St H-2/3 Error St G-3 F Fawcus St G/H-5 Ferreira St C-5 Fitzroy St H-3 Ford St H-5 Fountain Rd A-5 Fox St 54 Frederick St D/E-5 G Gerard Sekoto St C-4/5 Godfrey St D-6 Gordon Terrace G-2 Goud St F-4/5 Gous St H-4 Greene St F-4/5 Gus St H-4/5 Gwigwi Mrwebi St A/B/C-4 H Hall St C-5 Hanau St H-5 Hans St H-4/5 Harries St E-5 Harrison St D-3/4/5 Heidelberg St E/F-6 Henri St B-2/3 Henry Nxumalo St B-4 High Rd A-4 High St A-5 Hoofd St C/D-2 Hook St D-2/3 Hospital St D-2 Huber St B-5 J Jan Smuts Ave B-1/2

Janie St H-4/5 Jeppe St 4 John Page Drv H-4/5 Jorrissen St B-2 Joubert St D-1/2 Jules St G/H-5 Juta St B/C/D-2/3 K Karl St H-4/5 Kay St D-6 Kerk St C/D/E/F-4 Kort St C-5 Kotze St D/E-2 Kruger Rd G-4/5 Kruis St E-4/5 L Leyds St C/D-3 Lilian Rd A-4/5 Loveday St D Lower Page St G-4 Lower Railway St G-3/4 Lower Ross St G-4 M Macintyre St H-5/4 Maclaren St C-5 Madison St H-4/5 Mahlathini St A/B-4 Main St 5 Main Reef Rd A/B-5 Margaret Mcingana St C-5 Maritzburg St G-4/5 Marshall St 5 May Rd A-5 Melle St C-1/2/3 Melrose St E-5 Mint Rd A-4/5 Miriam Makeba St C-4/5 Mooi St F-4/5 Mosely St F-4 N Nelson Mandela Bridge C-3 Noord St D/E-3 Ntemi Piiso St C/D-4/5 Nugget St F-3/4/5 O Overbeek St H-4 P Park St G/H-4/5

Where to find Johannesburg In Your Pocket Johannesburg In Your Pocket city guides are on sale in the following stores:

Love Books Bamboo cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za Rad Gallery (Warm & Glad) 357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Alban‘s Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www. warmandglad.com

David Krut Bookstore

151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. 27 11 880 5646, www.davidkrutprojects.com

City Sightseeing Kiosk Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Centre, Ormonde

We can also be found at the following hotels and guesthouses: • Bannister Hotel • Chateau De Carolle • Clico Boutique Hotel • Curiocity Backpackers • Devonshire Hotel • Easy Hotel • Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa • FNB Conference Centre • Hyatt Regency • InterContinental Johannesburg O.R. Tambo • Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers • Liz at Lancaster Guesthouse • Faircity Mapungubwe Hotel • The Maslow Hotel

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Phillip St F-4/5 Pioneer Rd A-5 Polly St E-4/5 President St B/C/D/E/F-4 Pretoria St H-3 Princes St H-3 Pritchard St C/D/E/F-4 Q Queen Elizabeth Bridge C-3 Quinn St B-4/5 R Rissik St D S Salisbury St E-5 Sam Hancock St D-1 Saratoga Ave F-2 Sauer St C-4/5 School St F-6 Shaft St B-5 Siemert St F-3/4/5 Simmonds St C-2/3 and D-4/5 Sivewright Ave G-3 and F-4 Smal St E-5 Smit St B/C/D-3 and E-2 South Park Ln G-3 Staib St G-3/4 Station St B-2/3 Stiemens St C-2 T Thorpe St D-6 Troye St E-4/5 U Upper Railway G-3/4 Upper Ross Rd G-3 V Van Beek St G-3/4 Verwey St G-4 Village Rd D-6 Von Brandis St D-4 and E-5 Von Weilligh St E-4/5 Voorhout St G-4 and H-3 W Wemmer Jubilee E-6 Western Blvd A-6 Wilhelmina St H-3/4 Wolmarans St C/D/E-3 Y Yard Rd B-1/2

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• Motel MiPiChi • The Nicol • Peech Hotel • Protea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch • Protea Hotel Parktonian All-suite • Radisson Blu Hotel • InterContinental Johannesburg Sandton Towers • Sandton Sun Hotel • Soweto Hotel & Conference Centre • Tau Game Lodge • Ten 2nd Avenue Houghton Estate • Ten Bompas • Twelve Decades • Valley Lodge & Spa

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