Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 10, Feb-April 2017

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

February - April 2017

The trickle-down effect Rosebank gets a boost from Keyes Art Mile

10 best experiences

What to eat, drink and see

N°10 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BUILDING A BETTER CITY THROUGH PUBLIC ART, DEFINING AND GIVING CHARACTER TO SPACES AND PLACES

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 8 A roundup of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

19

Best guesthouses, hotels and hostels

Where to eat Top 10 ways to eat Suggestions for all tastes and budgets

22 22 24

The Art Mile

36

Rosebank’s style capital

Nightlife Top 10 nightlife haunts Best cocktails, pubs and clubs

39 39 40

Sightseeing

45 Top 10 essential sights 45 Tours 46 Constitution Hill 47 Museums 48 Five cool downtown spots 50 Parks & outdoors 52 Soweto 53

Shopping 56 Cool and quirky stores 56 Luxury shopping and malls 58 Boutique shopping 59 Markets 60 Joburg basics

61

Essential information for your stay

Maps Joburg neighbourhoods City Centre Sandton to Rosebank and surrounds

63 63 64 66

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for.

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Foreword Our tenth issue has arrived in what seems like a Joburg second which means you are holding one of 100 000 copies we have published since 2014. More than once over the past few months we have heard visitors remark that Joburg is Africa’s version of New York City. That’s not to say that Joburg models itself on anywhere but rather to suggest that Joburg is a unique global and distinctly African city.

Only 130 years old its rise from mining camp to a regenerated urban metropolis has been nothing short of meteoric.

To celebrate we have brought together our list of the 10 best experiences in Joburg from where to eat, and how to enjoy the city’s nightlife to the sights not to miss. It’s fitting that our cover story focuses on the ambitious redevelopment of Rosebank’s fringe. We have also worked with the Johannesburg Development Agency to track their contribution to the city, selecting five downtown neighbourhoods that tell the story of the city’s ongoing reinvention.

Wherever you go, and whatever you choose to do, in your hands is your passport to being a Joburg insider.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman & Nicol Paterson Researcher Idara Udom Columnist Carrie Adams Photography Anton Bosman (@antonbosman), Justin Lee (justinlee.co.za), Brett Magill (@ventureplanet), Heather Mason (@2summers) and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER IMAGE

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 11 083 6232.

The cover image was shot at Marble bar at Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank and supplied by the restaurant. Keyes Art Mile is an exciting new development focused on art and design.

Trumpet building where Marble restaurant and bar is located is the start of an ambitious plan to bring new life to the quiet fringe of one of Joburg’s most popular suburbs.

See p. 36 for the full story.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

February - April 2017

The trickle-down effect Rosebank gets a boost from Keyes Art Mile

10 best experiences

What to eat, drink and see

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za N°10 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

9 772311 394000

ISSN 2311-3944

ABOUT IYP In Your Pocket is the world’s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides, publishing guides to more than 100 cities in 27 countries. We are a well-known publisher with a difference; a group of independent local publishers who combine our knowledge, publishing expertise and resources to compete globally while remaining proudly local.

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6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The latest city to be ‘pocketed’ has seen In Your Pocket appear for the first time in Australia, with the January launch of Gold Coast In Your Pocket. Meanwhile in Lebanon work is underway on a brand new Beirut In Your Pocket guide. Visit our website inyourpocket.com to find out more. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

What’s On

Ultra South Africa, Nasrec Expo Centre

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed, but midweek you’ll already find Joburg’s trivia buffs and bookworms putting their minds to work at pub quizzes and book launches. Art gallery openings are generally held on Thursday nights.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – visit neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville and Parkhurst for the widest choice of nightlife.

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Saturday night, best make a reservation. If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km trail runs and yoga sessions on Saturday and Sunday mornings in the city’s parks.

Before going to print, we at In Your Pocket strive to bring together a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers. Space is limited so we can never put everything in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print, but changes may occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar to see what’s on tonight. Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us at @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Rukes.com

FESTIVALS AND FAIRS UNTIL 05.02 INTERNATIONAL MOZART FESTIVAL The ninth instalment of this classical music festival brings with it an inspired programme of performances.QVarious venues, see www.join-mozart-festival.org for details.

25.02 SATURDAY ULTRA SOUTH AFRICA One of the world’s biggest all-night dance music events with three stages, over 30 000 festivalgoers and a blockbuster lineup of international DJs which this year includes David Guetta and Martin Garrix.QNasrec Expo Centre, ultrasouthafrica.com. Tickets R800–R950.

25.02 SATURDAY LA HABANERA Joburg’s ComeSalsa dance school celebrates its 10th birthday with this salsa party on the famous Randlords rooftop with two stages and five international DJs. QB–2, Randlords, South Point Towers, 41 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, randlords.co.za.

Tickets from R100.

3.03 FRIDAY – 5.03 SUNDAY SOWETO WINE AND LIFESTYLE FESTIVAL 2017 Taste and buy from an excellent selection of classic and emerging South African wine labels. This summer festival at the landmark Soweto Theatre includes food tastings, wine pairings, cook-offs and live music.QSoweto Theatre, cnr Bolani Links and Bolani Rd, Jabulani, Soweto, swlf.co.za.

Tickets R150–R180.

18.03 SATURDAY ROCK ON THE LAWNS Cult American indie band Pixies headline this new openair music festival and are joined by famous South African johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

See you there!

indie-rock bands Springbok Nude Girls, Prime Circle and Shortstraw.QFestival Lawns, Carnival City, cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, suninternational.com/carnival-city. Gates open at 11:00.

Tickets R495.

25.03 SATURDAY AFRICA CHIC! This annual celebration of African francophone music and fashion features performances by exciting bands from across the continent.QB-5, The Good Luck Bar, 1 Fox Precinct (entrance at 4 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, alliance.org.za. Tickets TBA. 14.04 FRIDAY – 23.04 SUNDAY RAND SHOW Africa’s longest-running and biggest lifestyle expo with hundreds of exhibitors promoting everything from camping to cars, plus a jam-packed entertainment programme that includes military demonstrations, a funfair, live music, interactive science shows and more.QNasrec Expo Centre, randshow.co.za. Tickets TBA. 14.04 FRIDAY – 17.04 MONDAY SOWETO CAMP FESTIVAL An innovative camping festival in the heart of Soweto.

Enjoy a weekend party filled with performances by local bands, DJs and dance collectives, plus plenty of food and clothing stalls.QMofolo Park, Soweto, sowetocampfestival.co.za. Camping tickets R400, VIP camper R1 200. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

27.04 THURSDAY BACK TO THE CITY Attracting close to 20 000 devoted fans to Newtown’s streets, this is Africa’s biggest hip hop and street culture festival, timed to coincide with Freedom Day. Expect MCs, beatboxers, rappers and dance performances plus there will be basketball courts, skating ramps, a clothing market and graffiti competitions. QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, backtothecityfestival.com. Tickets from R200. * See page 12 for all venue details.

LIVE MUSIC 12.02

The Kings Singers (UK), classical, folk and jazz a cappella, Linder Auditorium, 16:00.

Tickets R295–R695

22.03– 25.03

Bonnie Tyler, Joburg Theatre, 20:00. Tickets R250–R950

23.03 – 26.03

Giorgia Fumanti (Italy), operatic pop, Joburg Theatre, 20:00. No performance on 25.03. Tickets R250–R520

24.03

Legends of R&B Volume II, featuring The Whispers, The Stylistics and Lenny Williams, Montecasino, 20:00. Tickets R400–R850

29.04

The Lumineers (USA), American folk-rock, TicketPro Dome, 19:30. Tickets R405–R745 February – April 2017 9

What’s On

West Side Story, Joburg Theatre

THEATRE AND DANCE UNTIL 05.03 SUNDAY WEST SIDE STORY Inspired by Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet, this smash hit classic musical is set in New York’s Upper West Side neighbourhood in the mid-1950s. After a sold-out Cape Town season it heads to Joburg with impressive sets and an allSouth African cast accompanied by a full philharmonic orchestra. Not suitable for children under 12.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R470.

13.02 MONDAY – 25.02 SATURDAY VASLAV A touching modern cabaret set in a mental asylum in Europe in the 1920s that follows the intense and intoxicating genius and madness of the legendary ballet dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, played by Godfrey Johnson, as he looks back on his colourful past.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140.

23.02 THURSDAY – 05.03 SUNDAY DANCE UMBRELLA 2017 This annual contemporary dance festival features an outstanding programme of new choreography and international collaborations by leading names in South African contemporary dance. See full programme for venue details.QMost performances take place at Wits Theatre, cnr Jorissen and Station Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 492 2033, danceforumsouthafrica.co.za. Tickets R80–R120.

28.02 TUESDAY – 18.03 SATURDAY FROM KOE’SIESTES TO KNEIDLACH This uniquely South African one-woman comedy focuses on the experiences of Chantal, a so-called ‘Coloured’ woman from the Cape Flats as she comes to grips with her Jewish boyfriend’s family, heritage and culture – at once different from her own and surprisingly similar.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

21.03 TUESDAY – 08.04 SATURDAY EL BLANCO: TALES OF THE MARIACHI El Blanco (The White One, played by acclaimed actor and performer James Cairns) weaves together spellbinding stories and songs based on everything from Mexican creation myths and Ancient Egyptians to George Clooney.

A smart, sassy and funny one-man show.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140.

MONDAY 27.03 – SUNDAY 14.05 SOPHIATOWN This much-loved classic South African musical tells the story of two black journalists living in Sophiatown in the early 1950s, who despite the newly implemented apartheid laws restricting interracial living arrangements, invite in a Jewish female housemate. A discussion of identity, race relations and integration ensues against the backdrop of Sophiatown’s swinging jazz scene.QB-4, The Market Theatre, cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel.+27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za.

31.03 FRIDAY – 9.04 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET PRESENTS LA TRAVIATA The sweeping score of Giuseppe Verdi’s opera in three acts has been rearranged for this romantic ballet version based on Alexandre Dumas’ tragic love story, the Lady of the Camellias.

QJoburg Theatre, joburgballet.com. Tickets R180–R450, matinee tickets (04.04 and 05.05 at 11:00) R80.

28.04 FRIDAY – 18.05 SUNDAY PRISCILLA QUEEN OF THE DESERT Based on the 1994 cult film, this uplifting musical, with its fabulous sets and costumes and wonderfully camp soundtrack, follows three drag queens travelling across the Australian outback on a battered old bus named Priscilla. Not suitable for children under 12.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R150–R500. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

What’s On

SPORT CRICKET Joburg’s professional cricket club the bizhub Highveld Lions play their home games at the Bidvest Wanderers Stadium (35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, wanderers.co.za). You can book tickets and view fixtures at the official Cricket South Africa website, cricket.co.za.

04.02 at 13:30 South Africa vs Sri Lanka ODI, Bidvest Wanderers Stadium 10.02 at 13:30 South Africa vs Sri Lanka ODI, SuperSport Park, Centurion West Rd, Centurion 19.02 at 10:00 bizhub Highveld Lions vs Warriors, Momentum One Day Cup 04.03 at 10:00 bizhub Highveld Lions vs Knights, Momentum One Day Cup 17.03 at 14:00 bizhub Highveld Lions vs Multiply Titans, Momentum One Day Cup GOLF 23.02 - 26.02 Joburg Open 2017, Royal Johannesburg and Kensington Golf Club, royaljk. za.com 02.03 - 05.03 Tshwane Open 2017, Pretoria Country Club, tshwaneopen.co.za RUGBY Joburg’s top rugby union team, the Emirates Lions, play all their home matches at Emirates Airline Park (44 Staib St, Doornfontein, ellispark.co.za). The Lions compete in the southern hemisphere SuperRugby league against teams from New Zealand, Australia, Argentina and South Africa (see superxv.com for details).

04.03 at 15:05 Lions vs New South Wales Waratahs 18.03 at 17:15 Lions vs Queensland Reds 01.04 at 17:15 Lions vs Sharks (Durban) 21.04 at 19:00 Lions vs Jaguares (Buenos Aires) SOCCER South Africa’s best known football clubs Pirates and Chiefs both come from Soweto. Orlando Pirates play home games at Orlando Stadium while FNB Stadium is home ground for Kaizer Chiefs. It is also the setting for their famous clash, the Soweto Derby (FNB Stadium, Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 247 5300, stadiummanagement.co.za).

07.02 at 19:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs Free State Stars 18.02 at 18:00 Kaizer Chiefs vs Highlands Park 25.02 at 15:30 Orlando Pirates vs Polokwane 04.03 at 15:30 Soweto Derby – Kaizer Chiefs vs Orlando Pirates 07.03 at 19:30 Orlando Pirates vs Supersport Utd 01.04 at 20:15 Kaizer Chiefs vs Mamelodi Sundowns 11.04 at 19:30 Orlando Pirates vs Maritzburg United 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Transformers Animatronics, Emperors Palace

KIDS FRIDAY 03.03 – SUNDAY 28.05 TRANSFORMERS ANIMATRONICS Tour the fictional land of Cybertron, home of the ‘robots in disguise’. Watch as Giant Autobots and Decepticons come to life against a blockbuster backdrop. The Dinobots and Rescue Bots from the Transformers book series will also be on display, making sure that young minds of all ages will be wowed. QEmperors Palace, 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, transformersafrica.com.

Open daily 10:00–19:00. Tickets R155, kids, students and pensioners R95.

TUESDAY 14.03 – SUNDAY 16.04 THE ADVENTURES OF MR TOAD A fun-filled musical adaptation of Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows that follows the impulsive Mr Toad and his riverside chums on a series of daring adventures. The show is aimed at young audiences and there’s a choice of seating on cushions or chairs.QNational Children’s Theatre, 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. Tickets R90–R110.

VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE L-9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel.

0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, jfo.co.za MONTECASINO THEATRES Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, montecasino.co.za NASREC EXPO CENTRE Cnr Rand Show and Nasrec Rds, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 494 1920, expocentrejhb.co.za TICKETPRO DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, ticketprodome.co.za johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

COMEDY 17.03 FRIDAY KEVIN FRASER: LIFE ON THE HEDGE Australia-based South African stand-up comedian Kevin Fraser returns home as part of his nationwide Life On The Hedge Tour. QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R300.

24.03 FRIDAY – 30.04 SUNDAY THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG Fawlty Towers meets The Mouse Trap in this South African production of the West End hit which sees a group of amateur actors attempting to stage a complicated 1920s murder mystery, with hilariously disastrous consequences.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets R100–R220.

THE BIOSCOPE For indie, arthouse and foreign-language films, the small independent cinema The Bioscope, in Maboneng, leads the pack and is also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films. Regular events include Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday of every month, and Classic Movie screenings on Fridays and Sundays (check their online schedule for the latest updates, and make your booking online). Adjoining the cinema is Chalkboard Café serving a range of craft beers and pizzas that you can enjoy during the screenings.QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za

28.03 TUESDAY – 01.04 SATURDAY THE FULL MORTY Stand-up comedy meets cabaret in The Full Morty, as South African stage and TV actor, vocalist and ‘professional k*k talker’ Mortimer Williams takes the audience through the inner-workings of the male South African mind in stories and songs.QThe Fringe at Joburg Theatre. Tickets R120.

THE BOX This weekly stand-up comedy night at POPArt Theatre in Maboneng is a popular platform for young, up-and-coming and established comedians to test new material.QG-5, POPArt Theatre, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, popartcentre.co.za. Every Sun from 19:30. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2017 13

What’s On

What’s On UNTIL 17.03 FRIDAY A PLACE TO CALL HOME Of the 10 countries where homosexuality is punishable by death, four are on the African continent. In this exhibition Belgian-Ivorian photographer Raymond Dakoua explores LGBT realities in two countries that have recently decriminalised homosexuality – Mozambique and Ivory Coast.

QGoethe-Institut.

Andrew Tshabangu, ???

UNTIL 31.03 MY CONSTITUTION Celebrating the 20th anniversary of South Africa’s Constitution, this exhibition looks at the interpretations of the Constitution from the perspective of the post-1994 born-free generation.QConstitution Hill (see p. 47 for details).

UNTIL 31.03 FRIDAY UNFINISHED CITY A look at the different architectural and neighbourhood development projects that are ongoing in Joburg and the ever-changing development of the cityscape.QMOAD (Museum of African Design).

Bridges Series – Portrait of a young Thwasa (2008) by Andrew Tshabangu

FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday evening of each month the streets of Braamfontein, Maboneng and Rosebank (see pp. 36-38) beckon with contemporary art openings, live music, DJ sets, performance art and pop-up bars. Joburg is a sprawling city so it is best to choose one area in which to spend the evening. Collect a First Thursdays guide detailing the night’s events at participating art galleries. Entrance to venues is usually free, and events kick off from around 18:00. For more visit first-thursdays.co.za/johannesburg.

BRAAMFONTEIN With its many bars and large student population, you’ll find a real party atmosphere here.

Popular venues include the Neighbourgoods Night Market (73 Juta St) with its gourmet street food, cocktails and live bands, and contemporary art galleries Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum.

Braamfontein’s numerous bars such as Kitchener’s and The Bannister Hotel Bar, and hip fashion stores like Puma Select also usually host late-night DJ parties.

MABONENG The trendy Maboneng precinct, a fashionable downtown district that stretches across several regenerated city blocks, is known for its hip cafés, galleries and bars, and vibrant street life. Follow the area’s many resident artists to lively opening parties at places like AGOG, MOAD, SoMa and Hazard Gallery, and for cocktails and DJ sets pop into one of the area’s many bars, such as Lenin’s Vodka Bar or The Cosmopolitan (see p. 41).

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

EXHIBITIONS 02.02 THURSDAY – 25.02 SATURDAY JAKE AIKMAN Jake Aikman’s paintings feature seemingly calm landscapes such as vast seascapes, remote coastlines and dense forests that capture the mystery and ambiguity of an isolated moment and hint at unseen drama.QSMAC Gallery.

02.02 THURSDAY – 25.02 SATURDAY 35 YEARS: A LIZAMORE PERSPECTIVE The gallery celebrates 35 years of director and curator Teresa Lizamore’s contribution to the South African art world with this unique retrospective of works by a selection of artists from Lizamore’s stable as well as pieces from her private collection.QLizamore & Associates.

02.02 THURSDAY – 25.02 SATURDAY BLESSING NGOBENI Blessing Ngobeni’s striking, surreal paintings typically explore ‘a mindset of a society influenced by power and its impact on individuals’. Ngobeni’s huge canvases are highly evocative and occasionally terrifying and offer the viewer much to think about and plenty of room for interpretation.

QCirca Gallery.

UNTIL 18.02 SATURDAY CLIVE VAN DEN BERG Sculptor Clive van den Berg’s new solo exhibition builds upon his ongoing series, Men Loving, which interrogates the importance we place on the global mourning and memorialisation of tragic events such as terrorist attacks and mass shootings.QGoodman Gallery. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

UNTIL MAY THE EVIDENCE OF THINGS NOT SEEN Focusing on works by artists of colour, this extensive exhibition negotiates the complexities of contemporary black identity and how it is expressed. Presented thematically it features works by dozens of leading names including Nandipha Mntambo, Charles Nkosi, Mary Sibande, Zanele Muholi, Dumile Feni, Gerard Sekoto, Ayana V Jackson and Blessing Ngobeni.QJohannesburg Art Gallery.

18.02 SATURDAY – 29.04 SATURDAY ANDREW TSHABANGU: FOOTPRINTS Footprints looks at the work of acclaimed Soweto-born photographer Andrew Tshabangu, spanning more than 20 years of his illustrious career. Renowned for his documentation of the daily rituals of black community life in urban Africa, Tshabangu’s images capture a spirit of hope, courage and determination.QStandard Bank Gallery.

25.02 SATURDAY – 25.03 SATURDAY MIKHAEL SUBOTZKY Mikhael Subotzky’s new three-channel film installation is concerned with the structures of narrative and representation and takes as its overarching conceptual theme the letter Y, taking its shape and its phonetic spelling as an entry point.QGoodman Gallery.

2.03 THURSDAY – 29.04 SATURDAY BRETT MURRAY This landmark exhibition spreads over two major galleries on Rosebank’s Keyes Art Mile. Described by one prominent critic as “the dark prince of South African pop (art)”, Murray is known for his distinctive large-scale steel sculptures and his memorable paintings which have occasionally courted controversy for their biting political critique.QCirca Gallery and Everard Read. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Praça de Touros II by Nandipha Mntambo 09.03 THURSDAY – 07.04 FRIDAY SIMON GUSH: THE ISLAND Photographer and filmmaker Simon Gush looks at the movement of people and resources between South Africa and its landlocked neighbour Lesotho, investigating the dependency and dislocation that characterises the relationship between the two countries.QStevenson.

GALLERIES CIRCA GALLERY AND EVERARD READ K-12, 20 and 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, circagallery.co.za, everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. GOETHE-INSTITUT 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, goethe.de/johannesburg. Open 08:30–18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY K-12, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com.

Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JOHANNESBURG ART GALLERY E-3, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3130, friendsofjag.org. Open 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATES 155 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. MOAD G-4, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, moadjhb.com, Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun10:00– 18:00. Closed Mon. SMAC GALLERY K-12, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5400, smacgallery.com.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun. STEVENSON C-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. STANDARD BANK ART GALLERY D-5, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00– 13:00. Closed Sun.

For more about the Joburg art scene, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com February – April 2017 15

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Diamond building on Diagonal Street, City Centre

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton.

Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose restrictions on carrying liquids in your hand luggage.

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern, and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and all South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights in Terminal A. For security purposes have your luggage safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands, head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of ANC struggle hero Oliver Reginald Tambo. QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.

A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo Airport costs R151.

After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus.

Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, jiata.co.za) charge per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Anton Bosman LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo international airports often the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria. co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

LOCAL AIRLINES SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS (SAA) The national airline flies to more than 100 destinations around the world.QTel. 0861 606 606 or +27 11 978 1111, flysaa.com.

AIRLINK Specialising in flights from Joburg to regional hubs and private safari lodges in southern Africa.QTel. +27 11 451 7350, flyairlink.com.

BRITISH AIRWAYS Regional flights from Joburg to other South African destinations are operated by local partner Comair.QTel. +27 11 921 0222 or +27 10 344 0130, britishairways.com.

FASTJET Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to destinations in Tanzania and Zimbabwe.QTel. +27 10 500 2560, fastjet.com.

KULULA AIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities, plus Windhoek, Harare, Mauritius, Livingstone and Victoria Falls.QTel. 0861 585 852 or +27 11 921 0500, kulula.com.

MANGO Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to Cape Town, Durban, George, Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar.

QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, flymango.com.

SAFAIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities.QTel. +27 87 135 1351, flysafair.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport taking up to 20 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Gold Cards cost R15 (this is a non-refundable cost). Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station.

Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends (except for the Montecasino-Sandton and Midrand-Mall of Africa routes). You need a minimum of R20 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30. The Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport route has a fixed price of R151. Prices for the north-south Joburg to Pretoria route start from R22. QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information. Note that the buses are not known for being timeous. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late-afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are the most accessible transport service as they cover large swathes of the city and neighbouring townships. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal (see graphic above). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the exact fare to the driver (usually R10–R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance for your stop – giving a landmark is usually easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find it offers many insights into everyday South African life. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

To Randburg

To City Centre

MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank Images by Susan Woolf

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of picture ID to register. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30. Check the schedule because on some routes buses run until 20:30.

These are some useful routes on the Rea Vaya system, see reavaya.org.za for more: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, Johannesburg Art Gallery, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at Boomtown.

PARK STATION Park Station in the City Centre is Joburg’s main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the station. An estimated one million people use the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport hub in southern Africa. This is also the starting point for the City Sightseeing Red Bus tour (see Sightseeing).

February – April 2017 17

Arriving & Getting Around

Where to stay TAXIS AND TUK-TUKS Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Some taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to the suburbs of Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. Smartphone users should download the Uber app and first-timers can use our Uber discount code on this page. In Melville and Sandton you’ll also find tuk-tuks, useful for making small journeys through the suburbs.

New users only. Valid in South Africa.

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it won’t break the bank.

Plan your route before you set off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. There are numerous car rental companies based at both airports, and most also have drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. See pages 64–67 for our City Centre and Sandton maps.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station (tel. +27 11 666 1700), avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Sandton Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), europcar.co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals (343 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 640 2666, rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:30. Closed Sun).

NAVIGATING THE CITY In the City Centre beware of driving into the akwardlyplaced bus lanes as this carries a fine and take note of the many one-way streets. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered singlestreet address. In the suburbs always check whether numbered names such as First or Second are streets or avenues as these usually intersect.

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

E-TUK-TUK Based in Melville and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips R50. Must be booked in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside the Sandton City mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.

QTel. 086 174 3742, sheshatuks.co.za. UBER The global smartphone app has an extensive service in Joburg.

Download the Uber app and register your profile. Joburg users can choose from an UberX taxi, Uber Black (luxury taxi) or Uber Van. Quber.com/app. ZEBRA CABS The largest taxi company in the city. Also has a service for women who require female drivers. First-time users get a discount if they book using the app. You can pre-book a ride by phone, app or online. Payment is accepted via the app, by debit card in the cab, or in cash.QTel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za.

TRANSFERS AND TOURS See Sightseeing for Joburg and Soweto tour guides that specialise in walking and cycling tours.

AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURS QTel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVEL QTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARIS QTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and there are bike lanes in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. For the most upto-date information on cycle routes, go to juca.org.za.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but the City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring for public art and graffiti. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

QSL on 44 Boutique Hotel, Milpark

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built for mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency is favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s oneNINEone restaurant (see Where to Eat) opens onto a courtyard perfect for sipping wine far from the madding crowd (L-11, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms). Or head to the rooftop spa for refuge (see p. 52).

It’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (L-9, cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5624, intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms), while Sandton Sun is a champagne bar away from Sandton City Diamond Walk, home to the world’s swankiest fashion brands (L-9, cnr 5th and Alice Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5000, tsogosunhotels. 326 rooms). If pure leisure is what you seek, then Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the

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visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-dead-gorgeous views of this most-treed city make it a prime sundowners destination (reserve your table). Sample the fine-dining menu at View, head to the spa for a blissful break, or hang out at Westcliff Deli (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons. com/johannesburg. 117 rooms). At the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Housed on the property that was once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn (who is building Steyn City, a new city of his own in the north), it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom. The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados, or book a wine or tea pairing at Luke DaleRoberts x Saxon (see Where to Eat), restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef. The newly renovated spa is a sumptuous location (K-9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. 53 rooms).

The olde-world opulent Palazzo Hotel Montecasino, a regular World Luxury Hotel award-winner, is also an international celebrity hangout. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions, the hotel has a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a memorable trip (Montecasino Blv, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosunhotels.com/ The-Palazzo. 246 rooms).

February – April 2017 19

Where to stay For a slice of peace and tranquillity 10 minutes’ drive from central Sandton there’s the newly refurbished Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa where the palatial rooms open out onto private terraces overlooking lush gardens (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, fairlawns.co.za.

40 rooms). The intimate and chic 54 on Bath has a boutique-hotel feel and a champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location, and show the best of modern Joburg (K-12, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, tsogosunhotels.com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).

GUESTHOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the prettiest suburbs, bedand-breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation in and around Rosebank. Many of their establishments are owner-run. For ease, see their booking website johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za. Available options include child-friendly, wheelchair-friendly and even pet-friendly accommodation. Monthly rentals and meeting facilities are available at selected properties.

Each listed property offers something distinctive.

Among them are Leighwood Lodge, a four-star boutique guesthouse set in a gracious doublestorey home in Parktown North, overlooking a lush landscaped garden with a swimming pool. At tranquil Bridge House tucked into Parkhurst, enjoy breakfast on the patio and the sounds of the river that runs through the property, while The Ashford in Parkwood offers Rosebank’s best attractions in easy walking distance.

Liz Delmont, the owner of award-winning member guest house Liz at Lancaster, is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy your stay.

She has thought of everything that will make your time in Joburg as comfortable as possible (J-10, 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083 or +27 83 229 4223, lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

Leighwood Lodge, via Johannesburg Guesthouses For more recommended accommodation establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Where to stay BOUTIQUE HOTELS

INNER-CITY STAYOVER

QSL on 44 (pictured on p. 19) is one of Joburg’s newest boutique hotels, a luxury refuge created by the founders of Row-G, an exclusive men’s fashion label. Vintage furniture and industrial interiors combine to create an uber-stylish setting, metres from the delights of boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley (see p.59) in Milpark (12 Quince St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 830 0000, qslon44.com. 10 rooms).

Newest on the block is Hallmark House in Maboneng, the long-awaited design of leading Ghanaian British architect, David Adjaye. Adjaye’s most recent work includes the fantastic National Museum of African American History and Culture which opened in 2016 in Washington, DC. The 46-room 4-star hotel with knockout views of the city shares space with a restaurant, barber shop and jazz bar. Still a work in progress the building will house a rooftop spa, gym and swimming pool (F-4, 54 Siemert Rd, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 402 0220, newmarkhotels.com).

The Residence caters to champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Choose from an array of individually decorated suites at Ten Bompas and try its restaurant, Winehouse, for superb bistro dining (K-11, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, tenbompas. com. 10 suites). The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (L-11, 61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, thepeech.co.za.

16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1908–09, and is a tasteful bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com.

7 rooms).

Book a city stay to get the most out of neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Newtown and Maboneng, and enjoy the city’s nightlife, weekend markets, coffee shops, mining history, art galleries, artists studios and public art. Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at The Bannister Hotel. The bar is one of Braamfontein’s most popular hangouts, plus there are regular live music gigs and comedy nights. A stylish budget hotel, The Bannister has en suite rooms with plenty of TV channels, Wi-Fi, and rain showerheads in the bathrooms (C3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za. 32 rooms).

Also in Braamfontein, the newly opened Once in Joburg looks out onto The Grove square and has brought a Cape Town sensibility and poshtel setup to this studentcentric neighbourhood. Housed in the former Hotel Lamunu Once in Joburg offers solo travellers and groups three-star hotel amenities plus the social atmosphere that makes backpacking a popular travel experience. The array of accommodation includes mixed dorms, female-only dorms, twin rooms and even a family room that sleeps four.

(C3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 87 625 0639, onceinjoburg.co.za. 60 rooms).

Across the Nelson Mandela Bridge is City Lodge Hotel Newtown, located next to local design emporium Work Shop New Town, the landmark Market Theatre and shopping centre Newtown Junction. This seven-storey three-star hotel has a swimming pool and bistro-style lounge and coffee shop (B-4, cnr Carr and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 065 0700, clhg.com. 148 rooms).

If it’s happening in Maboneng, Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and city aficionado, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing). Curiocity hosts live-music events, rooftop picnics, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms and even a loft apartment. A second branch in Durban is already proving to be a hit with youthful travellers (G-5, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).

A short drive from Maboneng is The Troyeville Hotel with eight newly renovated suites. The hotel is a regular host of the city’s literary set, and also popular for its excellent Portuguese-style food. Within walking distance of Emirates

MID-RANGE HOTELS The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools (M-8, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, proteahotels.com/balalaika.

330 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (M-11, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, proteahotels. com/melrose. 197 rooms). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, thefairway. co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors, Thaba Eco Hotel, set in a nature reserve south of Joburg, offers hiking, mountain biking, game walks and nature drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

4-star luxury guest house.

Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor.

Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

JOHANNESBURG’S BEST GUESTHOUSES

ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A range of affordable accommodation options centrally located in and around the suburbs of Rosebank.

Airline Park (also known as Ellis Park) it’s a perfect stop for a post-match stayover, a pre-match drink or even watching the rugby game in the bar (H-4,1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za).

SOWETO OVERNIGHT

Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

With so much to see and experience, it’s worth spending quality time in Soweto (see Sightseeing). Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beach-style bar, and an open-air restaurant in the adjacent park. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours of Soweto are a must-do activity in this vibrant neighbourhood and a great way to meet the locals (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds).

For more on what to see, where to shop and recommended restaurants in Soweto, see Sightseeing.

February – April 2017 21

Where to eat

The Grazing Room, Dunkeld Joburg offers everything from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine. In our listings we have tried to highlight a mix of both. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

Whether you are here for one day or many, these are some essential culinary experiences.

TOP 10 WAYS TO EAT

 AFTERNOON TEA For the lightest and fluffiest scones spread with homemade jam and clotted cream, crustless cucumber ribbon sandwiches, petite quiches, pastel pink macarons, dainty Victoria sponges and miniature Sacher torte – visit one of Joburg’s many luxury hotels for a leisurely afternoon tea or head out of town for the ultimate high tea adventure. See our recommendations on page 33.

 BREAKFAST AT A LOCAL CAFÉ

 DELI SHOPPING

Joburgers like to rise with the birds and business meetings held at 07:30 are not unheard of, which explains why breakfast out is such an institution. Wake up early and join the locals at a neighbourhood café. Enjoy eggs, fresh bread and some avocado on the side, washed down with a freshly pressed juice and a strong and flavourful coffee at Parkview’s Croft & Co or Braamfontein’s Post. Turn to page 32 for our full roundup of the best cafés and breakfast spots.

Not all delicious things need be eaten at a restaurant.

Farmhouse cheeses, freshly baked croissants and that most South African of snacks, biltong (spiced dried meat with a hint of coriander), are perfect for when you’re on the go.

Whether you’re self-catering, packing the cooler box in preparation for a road trip or filling up your picnic basket for an afternoon at the park, Joburg offers a great selection of delis and bakeries that should satisfy your every need.

See page 30 for some ideas on where to stock up and see page 52 for where to enjoy your picnic.

 FRESHLY ROASTED COFFEE Coffee is not just a drink in Joburg, it’s a lifestyle and this city really knows how to make a decent brew. The local scene is dominated by independent coffee roasters who use singlesource or blended Fair Trade (mostly) African beans. A bag of freshly ground coffee also makes a great souvenir. Buy some at Bean There at 44 Stanley in Milpark or Rosebank’s Father Coffee. See page 33 for all our picks.

 LUNCH AT A MARKET Head to one of Joburg’s lively weekend markets for a street food-style lunch and great people-watching opportunities.

Whether it’s a downtown hipster hangout like Market on Main in Maboneng, the family-friendly Bryanston Natural and Organic Market, or the rooftop Rosebank Sunday Market, you can find just about any taste you dream up, from gourmet bunny chows to Thai curries, Spanish paella to Serbian sausages and pulled pork sandwiches. Live music is also often part of the experience (see p. 30).

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

 STEAK If you enjoy red meat you won’t be disappointed, Joburg is a meat-loving city and grain-fed, lazy-aged prime cuts are the order of the day. Head to one of the city’s many famous steakhouses, like the newly relocated Wombles now in Bryanston (see p. 27), for an unforgettable rump, sirloin or fillet. For the most traditional South African experience enjoy your steak with pap (maize porridge) and tomato gravy.

 SOUTH AFRICAN WINE PAIRINGS South Africa produces some fabulous wines and at the city’s top fine-dining establishments such as Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon you can opt for an extravagant tasting menu complete with a finely tailored wine (or tea) pairing. Other restaurants with notable wine menus include David Higgs’s celebrated ‘live fire restaurant’ Marble, View at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, and Hyatt Regency’s oneNINEone. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Where to eat CONTEMPORARY While Cape Town has long been considered the country’s culinary capital, Joburg is starting to challenge the Mother City with an ever-growing number of award-winning chefs (some of whom are Cape Town émigrés) cooking up a storm at the city’s leading restaurants. Make sure to book ahead.

Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon, Sandhurst

 ETHNIC NEIGHBOURHOODS Ever since Joburg’s founding in the gold rush year of 1886, the city has continued to be shaped by its immigrant communities from Europe, Asia and other parts of the African continent. Take a stroll along colourful Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene, Joburg’s burgeoning new Chinatown; visit the traditionally Indian neighbourhood Fordsburg for spicy curries and biryani from the Indian subcontinent; or sample specialities from central and west Africa on a tour of pan-African Yeoville with tour company Dlala Nje. Head to Little Addis in the city centre (between Rahima Moosa and Troye Streets) for traditional Ethiopian coffee and cuisine. See page 31 for our dining guide to Joburg’s main ethnic neighbourhoods.

 DINNER AND DESIGN While food is always a priority, dining at a stylish location can add to the experience. From the no-expense-spared, design-magazine-worthy shrines to charming bohemian neighbourhood hangouts, you are never far from an Instagram-worthy restaurant. For chic interiors and a cosmopolitan crowd, visit Tashas on Nelson Mandela Square (p. 33), Café del Sol TRE (p. 28) and Urbanologi (p. 25), or for a more casual lunch in quirky and colourful surroundings try the retro African-styled Milk Bar (p. 36) or Melville’s pizzeria The Ant (p. 28).

 SHISA NYAMA IN SOWETO Shisa nyama is a Zulu word – literally meaning ‘burn meat’ – used to describe the popular ‘buy and braai’-style venues found across South Africa. Choose your own meat at the butchery and then have it barbecued to your exact specifications. At many township shisa nyamas you’ll also find DJs, beer gardens and even car washes, and a great party atmosphere at weekends. Soweto is one of the best places to enjoy shisa nyama. See page 55 for where to eat in Soweto.

BISTRO MICHEL Inspired by his grandmother’s kitchen in Lyon and Parisian restaurant style, esteemed French chef Michel Morand (a Joburg dining scene star since launching his first restaurant in 1988) serves up old favourites like cassoulet, onion soup and tartare de boeuf on the menu, as well as regular daily specials based on the availability of seasonal ingredients.

The decor is elegant and understated, service is top-notch and the wine list is extensive.QM-11, BluBird Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 0769, bistromichel.co.za. Open dinner Mon–Sat from 18:00, lunch Tue–Sun from 12:00. RRR. ULBW THE GRAZING ROOM NEW Renowned fine dining chef Marthinus Ferreira has been serving up excellence at his restaurant dw eleven-13 for several years, winning scores of accolades along the way.

Adjoining restaurant The Grazing Room is Ferreira’s newer venture, a playful tapas-style restaurant where new dishes are regularly presented by Ferreira and chef de cuisine, Jess McKinnon. Enjoy shareable small plates of beautifully presented and inventive dishes.QK-11, Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2843, thegrazingroom.co.za.

Open for lunch Wed–Sat 12:00–14:30, dinner Tue–Sat 18:30–22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR-RRR. UL THE LEOPARD Andrea Burgener is a veteran restaurateur, even at her young age, with a quirky take on traditional ingredients. Order from a small menu of innovative dishes made from locally sourced seasonal ingredients. French and Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian flavours and African culinary classics. Her Caesar salad is Joburg’s best, her meatballs dish is legendary, and there are always some surprises on the menu. To encourage fine wine drinking The Leopard’s corkage charges are R25 for pre-2006 vintages, and more than R50 for supermarket buys.Q63A 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open 17:00–23:00, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. B

PRICE KEY

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

ONENINEONE With its open kitchen and decor inspired by Joburg’s spring jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant offers stylish contemporary cuisine. Chef Shaneil Dinna’s threecourse seasonal menu fuses flavours influenced by a variety of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern, all with unique South African flair. Book the intimate private dining room in the wine cellar (holding around 170 labels) and on any afternoon head to the attractive garden terrace for tea or drinks, or the lounge, a popular business meeting spot. Look out for the Kitchen Party events, a fabulous mix of casual wine pairings and small plates accompanied by live music.QL-11, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open for breakfast 06:30–10:30, Sat 06:30–11:00, lunch and dinner 12:00–22:00. Sun breakfast only. RRR. UBL URBANOLOGI Former Cape Town-based chef Angelo Scirocco calls his menu ‘urban garde’. Located in the awe-inspiring industrial space of Mad Giant brewery in heritage-rich 1 Fox Precinct, Urbanologi has a contemporary tapas menu filled with Asian-inspired ingredients and Japanese street food styles.

The menu is of course designed to complement Mad Giant’s range of craft beers. QB-5, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi.co.za.

Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–17:00.

RR-RRRR. Corkage R60. UEBW VIEW Chef Dirk Gieselmann, veteran of a Michelin-starred kitchen seems to eschew celebrity status and is more intent on his contemporary a la carte and tasting menus and the spectacular cliffside setting being billed as star attractions.

Arrive for dinner early to admire the sunset or to linger at the cocktail bar. The business lunch bento box is ideal for a working lunch. QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6180, viewrestaurant.co.za. Open daily for breakfast 07:00–11:00, business lunch Tue–Fri 12:00–14:00, dinner Tue–Sat 18:00–21:30. RRR-RRRR. BL

FINE DINING LUKE DALE-ROBERTS X SAXON This extraordinary fine-dining experience is a partnership between The Saxon Hotel and South Africa’s top ranked chef Luke Dale-Roberts of Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (on the World’s Top 50 Restaurants list). Book well in advance for an unforgettable eight-course tasting menu served with a luxury tea or wine pairing. Savour outstanding service, unique flavour combinations and cheeky wine pairings. QK-9, see Where to Stay for address. Tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. Open 18:30-23:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Reservations required.

From R1 300, with tea pairing R1 600, local wines R1 900, international wines R2 100. Corkage R350. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2017 25

Where to eat

The Great Eastern Food Bar, Melville

ASIAN BANCHAN A petite and unassuming family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes.

The tofu, kimchi, sauces and marinades are all homemade, and the wine list consists only of traditional drinks like rice wines, soju and gamju. Bring a group and tuck into a traditional Korean barbecue or drop by for a lunch of thick noodle soup or spicy bibimbap (mixed rice bowl) followed by a dessert of bingsu (shaved ice soaked in fruit syrup and condensed milk).QL-8, cnr 10th and Elizabeth Sts, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269. Open Mon 17:00–21:00, Tue–Fri 11:30–14:30 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 10:30–21:00. RR. THE BLACKANESE Flavours from Africa (try the biltong California rolls) and Japanese cuisine fuse together at this fun sushi spot.

Choose to eat upstairs where the windows give a view over Maboneng’s Kruger Street. The lighting is cleverly provided by globes placed in upturned rice bowls and chopsticks are used for interior decoration. On Saturdays and Sundays after 12:00 feast on braaied prawns or order the superbly tasty barbecued whole fish.QG-5, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455, theblackanese. co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. Closed Mon. R. Corkage R30.

SBL THE GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Trout ceviche tacos, vegetable or kimchi gyoza dumplings and crispy scallion pancakes are just a few of the dishes on offer here. The setting is a boxy wood interior laid out across a Melville rooftop. Enjoy unique and subtle flavours.

Vegetarians will be delighted with the interesting options.

Red meat is not on the menu; instead, there’s spicy chicken wings or Korean fried chicken, lemongrass and coconut noodles, and a refreshing green papaya salad. Portions are small but pop with flavour and there are plenty of interesting drinks. Booking essential.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open 12:00–22:30, Mon 18:00-22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. BL 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Where to eat MOMO BAOHAUS NEW Specialising in Taiwanese street food with a twist this Greenside restaurant, opened by two brothers, has a wide range of choices and small dishes to be shared, so pick your guests carefully. Start with traditional potstickers, Norwegian salmon tacos, and crispy Korean fried chicken wings; the twice-cooked beef ribs get rave reviews while the bao (steamed buns) have been hailed as worthy of applause There’s also a good sushi menu. The dessert offer is slim and odd, but post-feast you won’t mind.Q139 Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 10 900 4889, momobaohaus. com. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–16:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. No liquor licence so bring your own. Corkage free.

SUM TING FRESH NEW This small street food joint with its minimalist menu and setting honours the chicken. It’s fuelled by the same energy and love of fried chicken you’ll find at the Sum Ting Fresh market stalls where it all started. Innovative dishes include the classic Goujon Chicken – strips served with Asian slaw, skinny fries, aioli, sweet chili sauce and a watermelon slice – and the unforgettable Gua Bao, a Taiwanese steamed bun filled with the good stuff and sriracha hot sauce mayo. Order an icy fresh fruity jam jar to accompany your meal. Q79 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 025 7591, sumtingfresh.co.za.

Open 11:00–21:00, Fri 11:00–22:00, Sat 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. Unlicensed. S

RED CHAMBER Emma Chen opened her restaurant in 1989 in Hyde Park Corner and named it after one of China’s greatest novels.

With tables spilling into the mall (good for family meals as the kids get to run around in plain sight) she serves up unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes striving for a harmony of taste, texture, colour and aroma. Famous for spicy cucumber salad, Peking Duck and sizzling plates, just to name a few dishes, this is one restaurant worth heading to a shopping centre for. Service is efficient and Chen has banned MSG.QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, redchamber. co.za. Open 12:30–22:30. RR. TUSL

GRILLS AND STEAKHOUSES

CASUAL DINING THE COUNTESS Everything hand-made is a guiding precept of this steampunk-inspired restaurant located in an inventive doublestorey shipping container. Hearty home cooking meets the American South with lots of smoky and sweet barbecue flavours, excellent pickled vegetables, and an emphasis on comfort foods given a twist. Don’t leave without tasting the Pot de Crème, a supreme dessert. There is also a varied breakfast menu (until 12:00) and raw juices, smoothies, and milkshakes that have incited poetry. Q 27 Boxes, 75 4th Avenue, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri 11:30 until late, Sat 08:30 until late, Sun 08:30–17:00. Closed Mon. Last orders one hour before closing time. RR. BL SU W THE FEDERAL NEW Celebrated local chef James Diack’s third Joburg restaurant joins Parkhurst’s fine dining restaurant Coobs and the ‘refined food truck of sorts’ The National in Parktown North.

His farm-to-table philosophy means that 90 percent of his ingredients are sourced directly from his family’s Magaliesburg farm (one hour drive north of Joburg). An American diner crossed with a gastropub or what Diack describes as a ‘greasy spoon diner given some polish’, the atmosphere is casual and the menu is comforting, filling and fun. Between 22:00 and 24:00 the bar remains open with a limited menu of tapas, gourmet hotdogs and burgers. QCnr 2nd Ave and 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 10 900 4876. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 11:30–15:30. Closed Mon. RR-RRR. S johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

THE BULL RUN This elegant old building attached to Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton was once a countryside tea room. Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Sandton’s financial district. The Bull Run is serious about its meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery. There’s also a fine selection of vintage brandies, whiskies, cognac and port.

QM-8, The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, 20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, bullrun.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R50. SBW CHE ARGENTINE GRILL The location is an atmospheric old warehouse in Maboneng with a ceiling portrait of a cigar-smoking Che Guevara. Leather saddles adorn the place and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life dominates one wall. At night the place is moodily lit by candlelight and the glow of flames leaping from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentine-style steaks are cooked. The empanadas are huge and come in an array of flavours. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce (a traditional Argentinian side made with fresh herbs) which can be purchased by the bottle, and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert.QG-5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za.

Open 10:00–23:00. RRR. EBL

The Federal, Melville facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

THE LOCAL GRILL A shrine to red meat with friendly and efficient service, wooden floors and streamlined decor on a busy corner in Parktown North. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose from lazy-dry or wet-aged meat, ribs, or ground beef burgers. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef best enjoyed with one of the top-class South African wines from the wine cellar. This much-awarded and buzzing steakhouse (popular for long afternoon lunches out of the office) is definitely worth a visit.QJ-12, cnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:0015:00, dinner 18:00-22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. TBL THE POTATO SHED This steampunk-BBQ-smokehouse restaurant in a centuryold building in revitalised Newtown, is a convenient pretheatre dinner and drinks venue. The humble potato is king and meat lovers can look forward to mouthwatering slow-roasted meats such as the ribs: a combo platter that includes cola-and-pineapple-basted beef from the fire pit and slow-braised short rib from the embers and ashes. Bring a big appetite.QB-4, Newtown Junction, cnr Gwigwi Mrwebi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 590 6133, thepotatoshed.com. Open 12:00–22:30, Sun, Mon 11:30–16:30. RR. Corkage R65. UBLW WOMBLES NEW ‘Welcome home’ is how you’ll be greeted at this Joburg institution, with a history dating back to 1984. From the moment you step through the courtyard gate you are part of a refined and genteel atmosphere, the décor transporting you to a grand safari lodge, filled with antiques, Persian rugs, fireplaces and comfortable couches. Wombles makes eating an occasion by getting the basics right – excellent food, service and ambience. You’ll feel equally at home enjoying a romantic dinner or entertaining international guests.QHobart Grove Shopping Centre, 88 Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. 11 880 2470, wombles.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00-14:30, dinner 18:00-21:30, Sat dinner only.

Closed Sun. Last orders for starters and mains 21:30 (last drinks/desserts orders 23:30). RRR. UBLW

For our latest reviews and updates on Joburg restaurants see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com February – April 2017 27

Where to eat

Where to eat ITALIAN AND PIZZA

BEST BURGERS

ANT CAFÉ This long-running pizza restaurant on Melville’s lively 7th Street strip is an eclectic and intimate spot with no space left uncovered by memorabilia, paintings and other items of curiosity. It has the feel of a moodily-lit artist’s den that long predates Joburg’s recent hipster craze for curated vintage-chic and elegant fonts. Pizza is the main dish here, served thin and crispy and with heaps of cheese. Try the famous lamb and mint combo. Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–16:30 and 17:30-24:00 (kitchen closes at 22:30).

RR. Corkage R45. NUSB Bistro Michel, Birnam

While there’s nothing wrong with a swiftly produced and eaten Steers burger or a Burger King whopper, every now and then you’ll want a burger venue with atmosphere. Take your pick.

BISTRO MICHEL This French bistro makes mouthwateringly good gourmet burgers. Try the ‘classic’ (pictured above) with Emmentaler cheese, pickles and homemade barbecue sauce or the bulgar wheat and quinoa veggie burger with a honey mustard sauce.QSee page 24 for details.

DUKES With a Wednesday night ‘Rock’ menu created by some of the biggest local music acts Dukes’s cool quotient is high. They bake their own buns, pound their own patties and use fresh produce and saucy homemade relishes.

The cheese burgers are legendary and vegetarians will be happy. Dukes also has a busy bar. Q 4 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 486 0824, dukesburgers.co.za.

Open Sun-Tue 11:30–21:00, Wed,Thu 11:30–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–22:30. RR. Reservations recommended.

RITUAL CAFÉ NEW The burger menu at this casual bistro is a treat and made more interesting by the different relishes. Try the chicken burger (with miso and pineapple), lamb burger (with tzatziki and onion chutney), or the mushroom burger with goats cheese and cranberry sauce.Q32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 79 573 3989. Open lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:30. Breakfast Sat only 08:30–11:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. 6B WOLFPACK The weekend crowds pack this hip little joint on Parkhurst’s main strip for manly beef burgers and craft beer with delicious sides such as tempura zucchini sticks or sweet potato chips.QJ-11, 21 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 7705, thewolfpack.co.za.

Open 12:00–22:00, Fri 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00– 20:00. Closed Mon. RR. SBW 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CAFÉ DEL SOL TRÉ NEW Situated along Parkhurst’s trendy boutique and restaurant strip 4th Avenue, this family-run Italian restaurant is a glitzy and blingy homage to the 1920s and the age of Art Deco.

The waiters are jauntily dressed with suspenders and flat caps, the bathrooms are divided into ‘Bonnie’ and ‘Clyde’, the tables are laden with elaborate stemware and dishes are named for ragtime tunes. The classic Italian fare is rich in flavour. Try the homemade pastas with elaborate sauces or one of the risotto dishes.QJ-11, 36 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 568 1063, cafedelsol.co.za. Open 10:30–21:30, Sat 08:30–11:00, 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 08:30–11:00 and 12:00–15:00. RRR. USB ROSTO NEW Located in a former lawnmower shop Rosto’s Italian owners are determined to reflect their heritage. Carefully considered menu details range from the shredded spinach (a lawn-mowing reminder) to the Milanese yeast used daily to make superb flavoured focaccia breads. Italian street food is the inspiration behind the main dish, flavoursome rotisserie chicken pulsed with 1100 degrees of smoky heat and served in three variations – sundried tomato, Mediterranean herbs and lemon or green mountain herbs. The twice fried chips are a revelation as are the classic Italian desserts and the innovative drinks. Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 0369, eatrosto.com. Open 12:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. Closed Mon. Times subject to change. Call before. RR. Corkage R50. 6B U

MIDDLE EASTERN 47 ON GRANT TURKISH FUSION NEW Owner and self-taught chef Nadia Sha travelled the world before opening her halal Turkish fusion restaurant on Norwood’s main strip, Grant Avenue. Sha is a generous and warm host, and has created a Turkish menu with a twist.

Her ‘Corba’, a Turkish-style soup of lamb and lentils, is a signature dish. Try the kebabs cooked over an open fire to medium-rare perfection, and served with a variety of relishes and interesting salad options (fun for vegetarians).

Q47 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 71 155 7266,Open 11:00–21:00, Fri 13:30–22:00, Sat 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. No alcohol. USB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor of this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery with its tables on the pavement is Instagram-worthy and constantly evolving. It includes the ‘tochas’ cushion (yiddish for bottom) and other quirky innovations by popular T-shirt and homeware brand Love Jozi and top local fashion design label Black Coffee. Sit inside at the counter or opt for a table outside with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings, the shakshuka or the excellent schwarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice to go with it.QG–5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. SBW TURKISH SHAWARMA AND GRILL This is a great value, down-to-earth family-run halal restaurant on Melville’s colourful main street. The interior has the business-like atmosphere of a canteen but you won’t recall that once you have sampled from the extensive menu that includes grilled meats, shawarmas and kebabs, freshly baked breads and a range of tasty salads and dips which you can mix and match. Order a grilled platter to share and there’ll be plenty left over for home time. For those days when you don’t want to eat out somewhere fancy.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1125. Open 11:30–21:00, FriSun 11:30–22:00. R. No alcohol. SBW

PORTUGUESE THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL The unfussy Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence never disappoints here. This authentically dated hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians and hosts regular literary evenings. It is also a famous spot for lunch and drinks before rugby matches at the nearby Emirates Airline Park, or for a weekend outing. Enjoy a lazy meal with plates of prawns, grilled calamari, sardines, saucy steaks and chicken livers with plenty of fries and a simple side salad. Chef Laurence Jones is also behind the new restaurant at Maboneng’s Hallmark House (see Where to Stay).

QH-4, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (Cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:00– 22:00 (does open later depending on the crowd). RR. EBL Guarded parking at the rear entrance.

PARREIRINHA Named after the little grapevine inside the restaurant, Parreirinha is an unpretentious spot, located in an old police station in south Joburg. Hundreds of men’s ties hang from the ceiling, adding character to what is already a colourful place. The menus may be enclosed in a flip file, but the dishes are anything but ordinary. The flavoursome speciality dishes such as the bacalhau (cod) and grilled prawns have plenty of Mozambican influence (spiced with a garlic and chili sauce).Q9 6th St (Augusta Rd), La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. Open 12:00–22:00.

Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50. B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Eat Your Heart Out, Maboneng

OUT OF TOWN DA GRAZIELLA PIZZERIA On Sunday afternoons this place is packed with Italian families sitting at long tables piled high with mouthwatering dishes. Run by a Sicilian brother and sister team, the service is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of choices on the menu. Start with a platter of roasted vegetables that include the Nastrini Piccanti Melanzane (brinjal ribbons with chili) and move on from there to pasta or pizza, and excellent veal dishes with hearty sides. Approximately 40 minutes drive east from central Sandton, on the way to OR Tambo airport.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, dagraziella.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. Closed Mon. RR-RRR. MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT Chef Chantel Dartnall is South Africa’s princess of posh nosh. The a la carte and tasting menus at her restaurant (set inside a garish pastiche of a North African castle west of Pretoria, about an hour’s drive from Joburg) are pricey but worth every penny. Influences are eclectic and styles vary but Dartnall’s food is superb, always delicate yet layered with robust flavours and exceptional to look at. QOrient Hotel, Elandsfontein, tel. +27 12 371 2902, restaurantmosaic.com. Open for lunch 12:30–15:00 (Wed-Sun), dinner 19:00–21:00 (Wed, Fri, Sat and for group bookings on Thu). Tasting menus from R625–R1185, plus optional wine pairing. A la carte. RRRR. UBLW NINETEEN NEW This is the restaurant, club house and bar of the impressive Steyn City Golf Course. Made of glass and brick Nineteen has a green planted roof that blends into its magnificent surroundings. Service is top-notch as the staff are trained at the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa (owned by Steyn City’s Douw Steyn). This might be Joburg’s priciest round of golf, but your meal won’t break the bank. Enjoy casual dishes served in generous portions, including a delicious towering burger, traditional Cobb salad and specialities such as excellent seared salmon, seafood risotto and sumac-crusted Springbok loin. For sundowners there is a bar snack menu and a range of cocktails. Q1 Clubhouse Ln, Steyn City, Dainfern, tel. +27 10 597 1019, steyncity.co.za/nineteenrestaurant. Open 07:00–21:00. RR-RRR Reservations required. UBLW February – April 2017 29

Where to eat

Where to eat ETHNIC NEIGHBOURHOODS

MARKET DINING For great people-watching, the biggest choice of cuisines from around the world and a lively, local atmosphere, head to one of Joburg’s many food and craft markets for lunch. On Wednesdays drop into the 27 Boxes Night Market in Melville where there’s a regularly changing selection of stalls serving up a range of cuisines such as the Zambian-Congolese Kitoko Kitchen (try the West African grilled tilapia fish with cassava or jollof rice) as well as permanent cafés such as Kwan Phayao’s Thai kitchen and the XO Patisserie.

On Thursdays and Saturdays visit Bryanston Organic Market. This is the best place in Joburg to shop for homemade farmhouse foods and organic fruit and vegetables. Stop for a healthy lunch at La Cuisine du Jardin (sweet and savoury crêpes), and for organic Fair Trade coffee at Bettina’s Café. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays the foodhall-style 1 Fox Market opens downtown. Don’t miss the Neapolitan-style pizzas at Pionieri’s Pizzeria and decadent desserts from Heroin(es) Café.

At Rosebank Sunday Market (see p. 60), a great shopping destination for locally made crafts, vintage items and accessories, there’s more than a dozen food stalls to choose from, including Andy Choo’s Chili Padi serving irresistible and spicy Malaysian rendang curries, and King Arabic Sandwich, run by a charming Palestinian family who make excellent hummus and falafel. Also on Sundays the trendsters flock to Arts on Main in Maboneng for Market On Main, where fashion, craft and second-hand book stalls spill onto the street, while inside there’s a huge range of food stalls. Favourites include Soul Souvlaki and Mama Mexicana (both now have restaurants in Maboneng), and for drinks visit the on-site craft brewery SMACK! Republic or try the gin and tonics from Maboneng-based craft distillery Time Anchor.

On Saturdays hipsters, students and urban trendsetters head to Neighbourgoods in Braamfontein to jostle for space in the queues for frozen mojitos. For lunch here, Sumting Fresh, with their chatty servers and crispy crumbed chicken goujons garnished with edible flowers and a slice of watermelon, is our favourite. QFor contact details see Markets in Shopping.

Tutto Food Company, Neighbourgoods 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee

Cheese Gourmet, Linden

DELI FOOD CHEESE GOURMET The Cheese Gourmet is one of the few places in Joburg that can actually lay claim to the title of stocking truly ‘artisanal products’. The owners are champions of the slow food movement and the deli stocks more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats produced with care and sourced directly from local farms. Load up your picnic basket or head to the adjoining café for lunch.Q77 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 5384. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. SB FOURNOS Consistently voted Joburg’s best bakery, this large deli and café is a busy neighbourhood stop, particularly on weekends. The chocolate croissants and the extensive and wellpriced breakfast menu are star attractions while the deli section has a great selection of cheeses, freshly made pastas and sauces, cold meats, and other picnic basket or casual meal must-haves. QK-12, Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, 224 Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, fournos.co.za. Open 06:00–18:00, Sat 07:00–16:00, Sun 07:00–14:00. Also in Rosebank. LSB LA MARINA This established food wholesaler serves excellent sushi and a super breakfast. It’s not on any major city route but if you travel for Epicurean delights they have it all – including locally-made pestos, whole smoked salmon and exotic teas.Q7 Platinum Dr, Longmeadow North Business Park, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 3277, lamarinafoods. co.za. RR. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–12:00. Closed Sun. ULSB TORTELLINO D’ORO Bring a big budget to this family-run eatery and deli and elbow your way through the northern suburbs grande dames to stock up on pricey necessities like melanzane, Spinach Malfatti (ricotta and spinach dumplings) and anchovy pâté. There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and a fine dessert selection.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, tortellino.co.za. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. LS johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

FORDSBURG Rich in history and with a fantastically diverse population of people from across the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent, Fordsburg is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets and enticing flavours. Along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Road and Rahima Moosa Street – particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market – there are lots of good choices, including Turkish restaurant Istanbul (52 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 056 5749. Open 11:30– 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30–22:00), the casual sit-in or takeaway spot Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 492 1456. Open 10:00–21:30), and the sweetmeats bakery Shalimar Delights with the biggest selection of colourful handmade sweet treats (228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 11 832 1675.

Open 09:00–21:00). In the neighbouring streets the old school Bismillah’s is where you will want to get your Friday biryani (78 Mint Rd, +27 11 838 8050. Open 09:00–23:00), and the World of Samoosas kiosk in the famous Oriental Plaza shopping bazaar is the place to stop for coconut samoosas and masala tea (38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, orientalplaza. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, closed Sun). A predominantly Muslim area, many stores close for Friday prayers between 12:30 and 13:30 and most restaurants do not serve alcohol. (See map on p. 64, A-4 and A-5).

LITTLE ADDIS Joburg’s Ethiopian district is concentrated around a few buildings between Rahima Moosa Street and Troye Street in the eastern part of the city centre, and houses a dizzying array of Ethiopian stores, restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops, barbers, music kiosks and plenty of posters of Haile Selassie. The easiest way to explore this area is on a guided walking tour (see Sightseeing for recommended tour guides). There is also a handful of Ethiopian cafés in Maboneng – try Little Addis (G-5, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 683 8675, littleaddis.co.za.

Open 12:30–21:00, Sun 10:00–15:00 at Market on Main.

Closed Mon), or James XVI Ethiopian (G-4, cnr Commissioner and Maritzburg Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 340 2020. Open 11:00–18:30, Sun 06:30–15:00) .

YEOVILLE This once predominantly Jewish neighbourhood is now famous for its pan-African community (some statistics have it that more than half of the people living in Yeoville were born elsewhere on the African continent), and along busy Raleigh Street (which later becomes Rockey Street) you can find traditional cuisine from all over central and western Africa. Popular hangouts include the fish grill La Camerounaise, while The Yeoville Market is a delicious jumble of spice shops and market stalls selling plantains, African landrace chilies, chikwanga cassava breads and so on. By far the best way to explore Yeoville is with a local guide. Walking tour company Dlala Nje, who are based at the once infamous 50-storey skyscraper Ponte in nearby Berea, run excellent walking tours of Yeoville (tel. +27 72 397 2269, dlalanje.org). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CHINATOWN

FIRST CHINATOWN The city’s original Chinatown was settled between buildings 5 and 17 on Commissioner Street (B-5) in downtown Joburg in the early 20th-century. In the early 1990s much of the community moved out of the city centre, although some stalwarts still remain today including the city’s longest-running Chinese restaurant Swallow’s Inn. The fantastic supermarket Sui Hing Hong, owned by Walter Pon who grew up on Commissioner Street in its heyday, sells everything from fireworks, crockery and condiments to spices and ‘arousing’ teas.

NEW CHINATOWN, CYRILDENE A pair of impressive Chinese archways mark the entrances to Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene, Joburg’s brash New Chinatown. The storefronts are unmistakably Asian and include supermarkets, tea shops, massage parlours, fireworks shops, acupuncturists and restaurants showcasing a diversity of predominantly Chinese food. The streets are filled with vegetable market stalls and for the adventurous eater there is a lot of fun to be had in deciphering untranslated menus. For shuijiao (boiled dumplings) look for North Dumplings (13 Derrick Ave) and for seafood and Taiwanese-style cooking grab a table at Fisherman’s Plate (tel. +27 11 622 0480). Chinese Northern Foods (tel. +27 72 030 9414, also at 369 Rivonia Blv, Rivonia) is another famous stop serving exotically described foods such as ‘little sheep in oil’ with heaps of garlic and you cannot fail to be intrigued by the giant clay pots filled with mysterious Chinese stews that stand in front of Delicious Casserole Foods (32 Derrick Ave, tel.+27 71 598 1793).

The award-winning Sai Thai (14 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 615 1339) is your stop for Thai cuisine and pop by Betty Wu’s tiny bubble tea shop Simplicity (cnr Marcia St). Built into the foyer of a local apartment block it’s an unusual setting for a refreshing pearl milk tea. The neighbourhood has a grittiness to it, not many waiters speak English and you may not be 100 percent clear on what exactly you’ve just ordered for lunch, but this only seems to add to the area’s unique charm.

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Where to eat

Where to eat SERVICE STATION A popular neighbourhood corner café serving breakfasts, lunches and tea with a view over the rocky Melville Koppies. At lunchtime there’s a self-service harvest table laden with a fresh selection of salads and lasagnes or quiches (pay by the weight) and the breakfast of yoghurt, granola, fresh fruit and honey is an excellent way to start the day.QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, bamboo-online.co.za. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30. SBW

Pablo Eggs Go Bar, Melville

CAFÉS BOLTON ROAD COLLECTION NEW This smart corner development incorporating a bakery, café, restaurant and cocktail bar is a welcome boost to Joburg’s art gallery district. Hard to believe that it was previously a dusty scooter shop. The contemporary space mixes industrial with natural elements, juxtaposing steelframed windows and facebrick walls with warm brown leather seating and abundant palms. There’s a focus on locally sourced organic ingredients. Try the small plates or just stop in for the cocktail hour. QK-12, Cnr Bolton Rd and Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 6104. Open 08:00-20:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). SBLW CAPITAL CAFÉ NEW A small café in grand surroundings, Capital Café occupies the former entrance hall of Cornerhouse (circa 1903), originally built as headquarters for mining company Anglo. The café sits directly beneath a magnificent stained-glass cupola, where mining magnates like Sir Ernest Oppenheimer and Cecil John Rhodes would have walked, preoccupied with the next big deal. Serving coffee, sandwiches, bagels and other light fare, it’s an ideal lunch stop while exploring this historic area of downtown Joburg. A few doors up, along Commissioner Street is City Central food hall, which takes up the ground floor of another grand building, formerly a bank. On weekdays stop in for dim sum, curry in a box or a fresh-pressed juice.QD-5, Cornerhouse, 33 Simmonds St (cnr Commissioner St), City Centre, tel. +27 11 838 9879.

Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. Closed Sun. W CROFT & COFFEE Good service, a gregarious owner, fresh juices, strong coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town, have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media types, opinionistas, writers and wannabes, replaced later by a shift of Range-Rover-driving post-gym lycra-clad ladies with expensive handbags.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, croftandco.co.za.

Open 06:30–17:00, Thu 06:30–20:00, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–13:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. SBLW 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PABLO EGGS-GO-BAR This fantastic art deco-inspired restaurant is a shrine to the free-range egg, just about any way you like it: poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a green or red shakshuka (Middle Eastern-style and novelly placed atop a Yemeni flatbread, probably the most popular dish on the menu).

The café is also licensed so start the day with a Bloody Mary.

Q2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348. Open 06:30– 16:00, Sun 06:30–15:00, Mon 06:30–12:00. L PARK CAFÉ Perfectly placed for exploring the many independent art galleries nearby. A spectacular coffee machine takes counter pride of place at this cosy café. The coffee is excellent and the menu is all about fresh, healthy ingredients – for breakfast the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, Cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, parkcafe. co.za. Open 07:00–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. USLW POST BREAKFAST LUNCH A hipster corner of Braamfontein complete with bearded baristas, a counter with a street view, vinyl on the turntable and a small but adequate breakfast and lunch menu. If you need space find a spot at the long table in the courtyard in the back.Q C-3, 70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl.tumblr.com. Open 06:30–16:00, Sat, public holidays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. 6SBW SALVATIONCAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard – perfect for relaxed family meals.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za.

Open 08:00–16:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. 6ULSB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE ‘African glamour’ inspired this branch of the chic local restaurant and café chain Tashas. The decor is dramatically elegant, with lots of brass and bronze elements adding atmosphere to what would otherwise be an uninteresting corner of a mall. Order from the extensive Mediterranean-inspired Tashas menu (breakfast is a treat) or the special signature menu.QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, cnr Maude and 5th Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 0389, tashascafe. com. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00–22:30, Sun and public holidays 07:00–21:30. SBL VOODOO LILY CAFÉ This suburban corner café aims to be a welcoming space for all visitors with a kids play area, sushi bar, plenty of vegetarian and carb-free options, organic and Fair Trade ingredients and even a small menu for dogs. The customisable breakfast menu is generously portioned and in the evenings there’s live music.QL-11, 64 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 442 6965, voodoolilycafe.com. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–15:00. TU6EBLW

COFFEE BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first roaster of Fair Trade coffee, Bean There sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor of the store is perfect for savouring the flavour and the smell of freshly roasted beans. Bean There also offers home barista courses.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. Closed public holidays. USW CRAFT COFFEE Hulking roasters and bulging sacks of beans line the walls at this little coffee bar and roastery tucked in among Newtown’s many graffiti murals.QB-4, 50 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0501, craftcoffee.co.za. Open 07:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. SW DOUBLESHOT COFFEE AND TEA ‘Farm, roast, brew’ is the tagline of this popular spot on a colourful corner in lively Braamfontein. Doubleshot specialises in ethical brews and sells limited seasonal micro-lots of coffee and tea as well as an excellent craft iced tea.QC-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 100 5241, doubleshot.co.za. Open 07:45–16:30. BW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Bean There Coffee, 44 Stanley FATHER COFFEE A blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple to aesthetics and hipster font design this coffee shop only seats around six people, but there’s plenty of leaning space on the counter and a bench outside. Buy a bag of the best to take home.

Service is curt but the coffee makes up for it. Also at The Zone@Rosebank (K-12).QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00– 16:00, Sat 08:30–16:00. Closed Sun. 6SBW THE GRIND COFFEE COMPANY This small coffee bar in a cycle shop has the most Instagram-worthy coffees. Try the signature Coffee in a Cone, a macchiato served in a chocolate-lined ice-cream cone or for the nitro cold brew ‘Draught Coffee’.QM-11, Whitely Rd, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 72 754 8705, Open 06:30– 18:00, Sat 07:30–16:00, Sun 08:00–16:00. UBLW

HIGH TEA For an afternoon indulgence head to one of the city’s top hotels for tea. Our favourites include 54 on Bath in Rosebank, Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in Sandton and the excellent value afternoon tea on the terrace at the opulent Palazzo Hotel, Montecasino (see Where to Stay).

DE HOEK NEW The 60-minute drive from Joburg is worth it for tea served in a lush tree-filled garden accompanied by the soothing sounds of running water from the pond. A luxury five-star boutique hotel De Hoek’s setting is remarkable, and instantly melts your city cares away. On the seasonal menu is a generous and tasty selection of finger sandwiches and sweet and savoury pastries. The chef has a light hand so you get to enjoy a wide range of treats. The scones are top-notch and served with homemade jam and your booking includes a glass of bubbles. For the ultimate treat, stay overnight. QR98, Magaliesburg, tel. +27 14 577 9600, dehoek.com.

Open Sat from 13:00-17:00. Bookings essential.

February – April 2017 33

Neighbourhood watch: Rosebank

Keyes Art Mile

Joburg’s new art & design heart Once the humdrum headquarters of a major petrol company on the fringe of Rosebank, Keyes Art Mile, launched late 2016, is now one of the hottest spots in Joburg, and attracts around 2000 people on the first Thursday of every month to its art and street parties.

The Trumpet building (K-12, 19 Keyes Avenue) on Rosebank’s western edge, is the first of a number of new buildings planned as part of Keyes Art Mile. While Rosebank has long had an art gallery row along Jan Smuts Avenue leading into Parkwood (see p. 38), it has taken the imaginings of Keyes Art Mile to go beyond the gallery and bring art into the life and streets of the suburb.

This art neighbourhood adds another dimension to Joburg’s growing status as an art city. Once fuelled by gold today Joburg is being shaped by artists’ dreams and a vision shared by many, and expressed in myriad ways, of imprinting art upon the city. There is a busy art calendar with two major annual fairs and just about weekly exhibition openings, plus a growing crop of artist studios, public art and a robust street art and graffiti culture. It’s a phenomenon that has been recognised globally, with editorials in prestigious publications such as The Wall Street Journal and Phaidon’s Art Cities of the Future which selected Joburg as one of 12 cities to shake up the art world in the 21st Century.

First Thursdays, a monthly art event that started in Cape Town and is now held in three Joburg neighbourhoods (also in Braamfontein and Maboneng) draws one of its biggest crowds at Keyes Art Mile. A First Thursday there includes new exhibitions, street sculptures, live music, a pop-up gin bar, food trucks and late night shopping at the cream of Rosebank design stores. It gives a taste of what the area’s future might hold.

Flanked by wild olive trees, Trumpet’s towering architecture is the work of StudioMAS who designed the landmark Circa Gallery next door. On any day the rhombusshaped building is a busy space with a café, a burger bar, the ultra-stylish Marble grill restaurant, a sexy members-only club with a bar open to all, design stores and art galleries.

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

As Keyes Art Mile evolves along Keyes Avenue it will also become home to new galleries and exhibition spaces for local and international art and design, apartments and exciting new stores. What was once a non-descript street could provide a blueprint for encouraging a street life that has mostly been absent in Joburg’s suburban planning.

DINE AND DRINK Apart from the fantastic contemporary art and design, Keyes Art Mile is a magnet for locals and visitors for its celebrated collection of places to eat and hang out.

For breakfast, coffee or a light lunch Milk Bar, which opens out onto a shaded terrace is a consistent favourite.

Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in downtown Addis Ababa, this retro African-chic themed café is a riot of colour, and a celebration of African-made items. The decor by Amatuli, specialists in African artefacts, is original and fun, exclusively made in Africa and refreshingly free of colonial nostalgia.

Next door is BGR, a burger joint run by two Americans with a simple menu of ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns (or the Paleo lettuce wrap) and basic toppings. The decor is equally minimalist. For dessert give in to temptation and order a famous frozen custard.

One floor up is Mesh Club, by day a members club and upmarket working space and come 16:00 a bar serving undoubtedly some of the best cocktails in the city. The constantly evolving cocktail menu is inspired by the club’s collection of contemporary artworks.

Top chef David Higgs’s live-fire grill restaurant Marble takes up the entire rooftop. At this 250-seater restaurant, with a lounge and bar separated by an eye-catching glass wine cellar, flames cook up everything from meats and seafood to freshly baked bread. It’s a winning formula. Striking artworks, a turquoise Mervyn Gers ceramic-tiled wall and light wooden floors give the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky, and the sunset views are among the best in the city. Booking is essential.

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BROWSE THE GALLERIES

FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

Start inside Trumpet’s three-storey atrium, a temporary exhibition space that houses large-scale installations. Inside are SMAC Gallery, representing emerging African and South African artists, and Whatiftheworld & Southern Guild, a collaborative space that merges local contemporary art and design objects.

Next door to Trumpet is the architectural landmark Circa Gallery with its circular structure and metal fins reaching into the sky. The street-level opening houses an ever-changing collection of massive contemporary sculptural works. After popping into Speke gallery on the ground floor take the spiral walkway to Circa’s main exhibition space. Don’t leave without seeing the rooftop terrace with its superb views. Circa’s sister gallery, Everard Read, across Keyes Avenue was established in 1913 and is Joburg’s oldest commercial gallery. It relocated to this elegant 1920s house in Rosebank in the late 1970s. Both galleries showcase paintings, photography and sculpture by some of the biggest names in contemporary South African art.

Visit luxury accessories label Missibaba for statement handstitched leather bags, in glorious colour and detail. If premium sneakers are your thing then worship at the temple that is Shelflife. Slick interior design stores include Italian furniture and homeware brands Kartell, Moroso and Cassina, Flos Lighting’s unique design and technology blend, and Anatomy Design, a homegrown brand celebrated for its considered spaces and elegant homeware items.

GALLERIES CIRCA GALLERY AND EVERARD READ Tel. +27 11 788 4805, everard-read.co.za, circagallery.co.za. Open 09:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. SMAC GALLERY Tel. +27 10 594 5400, smacgallery. com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun. WHATIFTHEWORLD & SOUTHERN GUILD Tel. +27 10 594 5062, whatiftheworld.com. Open 09:30–17:00, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. CAFÉS, BARS, RESTAURANTS BGR Tel. +27 10 593 4545, eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30.

MARBLE Tel.+27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Lunch from 12:00 (last booking 14:30), dinner from 18:30.

MESH CLUB Tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub.co.za. The bar is open daily 16:00–23:00.

MILK BAR Tel. +27 10 594 5128, Open 06:30–18:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–16:00.

Missibaba at Keyes Art Mile

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SHOPPING ANATOMY DESIGN Tel. +27 11 024 3727, anatomydesign.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–15:00.

FLOS Tel. +27 10 594 5131, eldc.co.za. Open 08:30– 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KARTELL, MOROSO AND CASSINA Tel. +27 83 271 8447, truedesign.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:30– 14:00. Closed Sun. MISSIBABA missibaba.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. SHELFLIFE Tel. +27 10 594 5129, shelflife.co.za, Open 10:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

February – April 2017 37

feature feature watch: Rosebank Neighbourhood ART GALLERY ROW Two city blocks from Keyes Art Mile at the corner of Bolton Road and Jan Smuts Avenue is the start of Rosebank’s Art Gallery Row, with more than half a dozen art galleries and studios lined up next to each other. One of the most striking buildings is Goodman Gallery, promoting A-list South African and international artists and photographers the likes of world-renowned William Kentridge, and photo men David Goldblatt and Mikhael Subotzky. A few doors up behind a peacock-blue wall is the superb David Krut Bookstore with its fine collection of art books. It shares space with Hadeda, a colourful gift shop filled with homeware treasures from Mexico. Next door is fine art gallery Lizamore & Associates and a little further up the street Kim Sacks Gallery, specialising in ceramics, authentic African artefacts and fine beadwork pieces.

Facing Goodman Gallery on the opposite side of Jan Smuts Avenue is Bolton Road Collection, a stylish café, restaurant and bar – the perfect pit stop on your art walk.

On this corner look out for a hipster barbershop-bar Bar Ber Black Sheep, exclusive spirits store Proof and the small pizza bar Coalition. Yet more galleries await along this strip including Res Gallery with its provocative photography exhibitions, Gallery 2 for fine art and painting and David Krut Projects, Joburg’s best-known print-making gallery and art book publisher. Between them is Priest Espresso Bar, with its eye-catching monochromatic feature wall by artist Peter Mammes and a small exhibition space in the back. Also in the area is Gallery MOMO, for contemporary African art, and the large artist studio and gallery Art It Is.

Nightlife

Art openings generally happen on Thursday nights with walkabouts scheduled on Saturdays. See What’s on for exhibitions.

ART IT IS 11 Chester Rd, artitis.co.za, tel. +27 11 880 6961. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT BOOKSTORE 151 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 880 5646, davidkrutprojects.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT PROJECTS 142 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 0627, davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY 2 140 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 0155/ +27 11 447 0198, gallery2.co.za. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:00, Sun, Mon by appointment.

GALLERY MOMO 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00– 18:00 Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY 163 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun and Mon. KIM SACKS GALLERY 153 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–17:00, public holidays 10:00–14:00, Sun by appointment only.

LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATES 155 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 880 8802, lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun and Mon.

The Hideout Bar at Curiocity, Maboneng

TOP 10 NIGHTLIFE HAUNTS Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and nightlife districts. The only tricky bit is that the main nightlife areas are spread across the city so plan your night out in advance. If drinking, take a taxi or Uber (see p.18). This is our pick of 10 essential Joburg nightlife experiences to add to your itinerary.

 CHEER ON THE SPRINGBOKS

 LISTEN TO JAZZ

 BAR-HOPPING IN MABONENG

Ever since the heady days of swinging Sophiatown in the 1950s when the likes of Hugh Masekela and Miriam Makeba set the airwaves alight with their homegrown brand of African jazz, Joburg has remained at the epicentre of the country’s jazz scene. These days the biggest names can be found on the stage or in the audience at leading jazz club The Orbit (see p. 44).

There’s always something new happening in this energetic downtown district, converted from century-old rundown industrial warehouses. Its compact nature makes this neighbourhood ideal for bar-hopping. Read our guide to bar crawling in Maboneng on page 41.

 SUNDOWNERS WITH A VIEW End the day sipping a drink with a view of the summer sun setting over the city’s skyscrapers at Living Room (see p.

41) in Maboneng or the northern suburbs’ urban forest at 4pm at Mesh in Rosebank or EB Social Kitchen and Bar (see p. 40) in Hyde Park.

 TRY THE LOCAL CRAFT BEERS Joburg’s craft beer industry is on the rise and there are plenty of top-notch labels to try. Visit the impressive Mad Giant brewery (see p. 42) in downtown Joburg for a tasting, or look out for Soweto Gold, Soweto’s own craft beer label.

 DRINK IN JOBURG’S HISTORY

Circa Gallery, Rosebank 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Despite a constant hunger for the new Joburgers also cling proudly to their heritage landmarks, which in a town that was built on the back of the world’s biggest gold rush, naturally includes drinking holes. Among the oldest are Rand Club (opened 1887), Kitchener’s (opened 1898) and Radium Beerhall (opened 1929). See pages 41 and 44. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Show your allegiance to the national rugby team by ordering a Springbok shooter (Crème de Menthe and the creamy liqueur Amarula). If you are heading to a rugby match at Ellis Park then pre- and post-match drinks at nearby The Troyeville Hotel is essential (see p. 41).

 CLUBBING House music rules in this town and you can find people dancing to it at bars and clubs across the city. Dress to impress and try pass the velvet rope at flashy Taboo or join the urban underground at And Club (see p. 44).

 LAUGH OUT LOUD

If you like stand-up comedy visit the Goliath Comedy Club (see p. 44) in Melrose Arch or drop by POPArt Theatre in Maboneng for Sunday night comedy (see What’s on).

 GO TO A GIG Jazz, soul, funk, hip hop, house, indie and rock – Joburg’s live music scene has something for everyone and a night out at a local gig can be one of the most memorable experiences you have in this city (see p. 44). For the latest gigs check out our What’s on calendar online.

 COCKTAILS South Africa has a burgeoning craft spirit industry and great cocktail bars to match. For the best cocktails in town read our roundup on page 40.

February – April 2017 39

Nightlife

Nightlife PUBS

MABONENG BAR CRAWL

GILES PUB AND RESTAURANT A friendly neighbourhood pub in the leafy old suburb of Craighall Park, popular with rugby fans. The obliging staff are also more than happy to use the many TV screens to accommodate football followers. The glass-fronted restaurant area can lack atmosphere when not busy, but the long bar at the front of the pub and the covered street terrace is always humming and has been well-preserved to give a sense of history. Q9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 4056. Open 12:30–23:00. BLW

EB Social Kitchen and Bar, Hyde Park Corner

COCKTAIL BARS While beer and wine are always fine, nothing touches the spot quite like a well-made cocktail. Here’s our guide to where to find some of Joburg’s best drinks.

4PM AT MESH NEW Dress to impress and join the sophisticated set at this sexy cocktail lounge, housed in what is by day a private members’ club. The meticulously constructed menu is inspired by historical references as well as the contemporary artworks on display. Each month a new cocktail is launched, using a classic recipe as a base and given a twist, such as the Corpse Reviver, a gin-based cocktail first named in 1889, that is equal parts Cointreau, Caperitif (a classy South African fortified wine), Absinthe and orange zest for flavour.

The views are fabulous, and the bespoke furniture and interiors ooze contemporary luxury. QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub. co.za . Open 16;00–23:00. BW BOLTON ROAD COLLECTION NEW Part of Rosebank’s smart Park Corner development, where you’ll also find a barbershop-bar, pizza joint, contemporary café and restaurant. Build your own craft gin and tonic or try their zesty signature Negroni, made with vermouth, Campari and Caperitif. There’s also a speakeasy bar in the same building, but telling you how to find it would only spoil the fun. QK-12, Cnr Bolton Rd and Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 6104. Open 08:00–24:00. LBW BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY NEW Rum doesn’t feature on the brief eatery menu, which is all about West Indian favourites like jerk chicken, fish cakes, and crab curry, but it certainly does on the equally slim cocktail list. Be transported to a Caribbean island in this kitsch beach bar-themed joint while sipping on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada served in an actual pineapple. Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00–23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. B 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

EB SOCIAL KITCHEN AND BAR At this smart-casual bar and restaurant inside a bookstore, each cocktail is inspired by a classic novel such as The Catcher in the Rye (Bulleit Bourbon, mint, apple and cinnamon) and The Secret Garden (Tanqueray Ten, rose, chamomile and lemon). The brass-and-tile bar comes with a view and books scattered across it for your reading pleasure.

QK-10, Exclusive Books, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Craighall, tel. +27 11 268 6039.

Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. LW LENIN’S VODKA BAR With over 40 different vodka brands this quirky Sovietthemed bar in Maboneng has probably the best vodka selection to be found this side of Russia. On the house cocktail list we particularly like the Vlad (crème de cassis with some Stoli Razberi) and the Caipiroska (vodka, fresh limes, sour mix and Sprite).QG-4, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 76 030 4200, lenins.co.za. Open 16:00 until late, Sun 12:00 until late. Closed Mon, Tue. B LOUNGE 55 NEW To the left is the casual fine-dining tapas restaurant Workshop 55 and to the right Lounge 55, whose decor takes its inspiration from the glamourous cocktail lounges of 1920s Miami. Both venues specialise in gin and there’s a massive selection of unusual and rare craft labels to try and expensive craft tonics to mix them with. QJ-12, 55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55. co.za. Open 16:00–24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. ULBW SIX COCKTAIL BAR A studenty Melville institution that’s been around for years serving literally dozens of cocktail choices. With a 2-4-1 happy hour every day from 12:00–19:00, there’s ample time to try them. The bestseller is the potent Excitabull (vodka, berries, Red Bull and a hint of Stroh). Q5 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 8306. Open 12:00–02:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British fashion for gastropubs, The Griffin deals in craft beers and posh pub food. Friendly and attentive staff with a good sense of humour and a knack for remembering you for next time, plus music you can actually talk over provide even more reason to stay out later. QL-11, Illovo Junction, cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, thegriffin.co.za. Open 12:00–23:30 (kitchen closes 22:30), Sun 12:00–17:00. Closed Mon. BW KITCHENER’S CARVERY AND BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something pretentious. By day it’s a quiet pub; by night DJs spin soul, funk and electro. If the queue to get in is too long, try popping into Great Dane next door, another late night bar with a similar crowd and atmosphere. QC-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners. co.za. Open 10:00–04:00, Sun–Tue 10:00–02:00. Cover charge after 21:00 Fri and Sat. EB THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen better days, this historic pub still brims with warmth and character. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the bar only add to its unique charm.

Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–01:00. Admission R50–R80 on performance nights.

THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL The bar at this historic hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville first opened its doors in 1939. Beloved by rugby fans, on match days at the nearby Ellis Park Stadium (now Emirates Airline Park) the place is packed with fans in their team colours. It is also known for its cultural events such as The Troyeville Book Club, which attracts the city’s lefties, artists and journalist crowd. A menu of tasty Portuguese food is complemented by a range of beers from Mozambique.QH-4, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Wilhelmina St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za.

Open 10:00–22:00 (or later). Guarded parking at the rear entrance. UEBL facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Lenin’s Vodka Bar

Sally Shorkend

With its many bars laid out among cafés, boutiques, galleries and other attractions within a handful of city blocks, the downtown precinct of Maboneng is an ideal place for a bar crawl. For maximum atmosphere, Friday and Saturday evenings or Sunday afternoons are the best time to go.

Start with ice-cold jam jar cocktails at the The Hideout (302 Fox St, open daily until 22:00) part of the laidback and super-friendly backpackers hostel Curiocity. Curiocity also has its own tour company, MainStreetWalks, that leads underground pub crawls to bars, pubs and shebeens in Maboneng and the surrounding areas (see Sightseeing).

Heading down Fox Street stop in at Chalkboard Café (286 Fox St, open daily until 23:00), a craft beer bar and pizzeria adjoining Maboneng’s independent cinema The Bioscope. On the rooftop of the same building is Living Room (entrance at 20 Kruger St, open Thu, Fri, Sun until 19:00, Sat until 21:00), a veritable garden in the sky that is also an ideal place to watch the sun set.

Take a right on Albrecht Street and drop in for a glass of wine at the petite art gallery and bar SoMa (open Wed, Thu until 18:00, Fri, Sat until 22:00). Around the corner try vodka from across the globe at Lenin’s Vodka Bar (see p. 40).

Across the street is The Cosmopolitan, a Victorianera hotel that has been transformed into a wine bar, restaurant, coffee shop, art gallery and boutique shopping space (see Shopping). Two doors down look for the sign leading to Poolside (281 Commissioner St, open Thu-Sat until 22:00), a small urban courtyard with a swimming pool and poolside bar.

For a grungy antidote to Maboneng’s cool scene head to the zebra-striped building one block over that is home to Zebra Inn (252 Albertina Sisulu Rd, the bar is on the first floor, ring the bell to get in), a scruffy but memorable destination filled with the owner’s extensive collection of taxidermied animal heads. A five-minute drive up Albertina Sisulu Road is The Troyeville Hotel pub, usually filled with regulars watching sport.

The adjoining restaurant is a superb place to end up for delicious Portuguese-style food like peri-peri chicken livers and grilled prawns (see opposite for details).

February – April 2017 41

Nightlife UNBOTTLE THE BUBBLES Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then has expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter.

It’s mid-summer and by now most people have stored their holiday memories and are back at their desks. If you are anything like me February sees the shiny, bright promise of a new year dull some and by March you are beating your well-worn path to work each day with a certain tardiness that is revived only by the anticipation of an Easter break. The holidays are well-timed.

2017 is the Chinese year of the Rooster, the symbol of punctuality and fidelity. The crowing of the rooster each morning heralds the breaking of the dawn, the ritual of getting up and out to work. Industry, clarity, tenacity. All sounds good to me after 2016 and the year of the Monkey where most of the people I encountered were spending great effort dodging the trickery and stress of the monkey’s influence. So perhaps this will be an easier year for us and possibly with a good dollop of effort thrown in 2017 may even prove hugely successful.

After a hard day’s work, there’s little nicer than a refreshing drink. More especially in these summer months when you can’t beat an icy cold beer on the veranda at sundown – or better still, a glass of chilled sparkling wine. Durbanville Hills Winery belongs to the mighty Distell who have for many years produced incredibly well-made and well-priced wines. Martin Moore, cellar master at Durbanville Hills and his awardwinning winemaking team, has spent a couple of years building the framework for a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc which has just found its way onto the shelves.

The packaging is fresh and pretty and in keeping with the young at heart nature of the product. The grapes are pressed and the juice fermented at 15°C for up to 21 days. Thereafter the wine is racked and left on secondary lees for six months until bottling. Lastly, the wine is infused with carbon dioxide during bottling to ensure a vibrant, fresh mousse that has a hint of sweetness and a lively acidity.

At around R75 a bottle it’s a fantastic way to celebrate the closing of the day, the perfect summer lunch, or a happy occasion that requires the upliftment only a mouthful of tiny bubbles can ensure. Happy sipping!

QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 10 140 4888, ngf.co.za. See website for branches. Durbanville Hills Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc is available at all Norman Goodfellows outlets or can be ordered online for delivery nationwide.

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Ace + Pearl, Craighall Park

CRAFT BEER CRAFT BEER LIBRARY NEW This place is heaven for craft beer aficionados. This tiny bar stocks by far the biggest and most varied selection of craft beers in the city, including unusual and obscure brews from both South Africa and the rest of the world. A little larger than a hole-in-the-wall with small tables spilling out onto the street, space here is at a premium. QCnr 3rd Ave and 6th St, Linden, tel. +27 71 177 9531, craftbeerlibrary.co.za. Open 11:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–22:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. B MAD GIANT This stand-out bar, brewery and bottle shop is part of the smart new downtown 1 Fox Precinct, a collection of redesigned century-old warehouses housing a variety of eyecatching venues. The brewery shares space with the celebrated Urbanologi restaurant and the indoor tasting bar looks directly over the brewery itself, while out front there’s a spacious and sunny beer garden.QB-5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, madgiant.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00. UEBL STANLEY BEER YARD The converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley with its pretty interlinked courtyards is a chilled place to spend a warm evening. Settle in at one of the long tables under the trees in the beer garden and quench your thirst with a choice of South African craft beers.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Closed Mon. EB

UPMARKET ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this chic little wine bar has a superb selection of boutique wines. Labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events. Order a bottle (one glass is never enough) and enjoy it with a plate of French nibbles.

QK-11, Albans Sq, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, acepearl.com. Open 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00–23:00, Sat 14:00–22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

THIS CITY SPARKLES

Sightseeing

Nightlife LIVE MUSIC & COMEDY THE GOLIATH COMEDY CLUB This fully licenced 160-person-capacity comedy club run by highly regarded South African comedy team Goliath and Goliath serves up great food and plenty of laughs. Performances feature a showcase of six stand-up comedians with an interval halfway.QM-11, 10A The High St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 76 856 4215, goliathcomedyclub.com. Comedy nights Thu, Fri, Sat at 20:00. Tickets from R100. EL Lounge 55, Parktown North RAND CLUB The Rand Club is an historic members-only club founded in 1887 by Cecil Rhodes and his fellow colonial mining barons, the so-called ‘Randlords’. Nowadays the club is open to all sexes and races (so long as the smart dress code is obeyed) and hosts regular non-members evenings when it’s possible to drop by and order a pewter tankard of local beer at the mahogany-panelled bar (said to be the longest in Africa). Take time to explore the club’s grand interiors.QD-5, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, +27 11 870 4260, randclub. co.za. Only open to non-members for special events. L THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt Regency’s courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. Enjoy drinks and cigars here, with the noise of the city completely muffled and, instead, replaced with birds tweeting overhead and water trickling into infinity pools nestled under romantically lit palm trees.QL-11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 15:00–22:00. BL

GAY AND LESBIAN BEEFCAKES Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular topless men, this camp burger bar is also a favourite for bachelorette parties and hosts saucy drag shows every night. The menu quips; ‘Best Buns in town and the Burgers aren’t bad either’ and they are not kidding. On weekends table bookings are advised. Next door is the late-night gay club, Babylon (open 19:00–04:00, closed Mon, Tue).QL-11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 5266. Open 12:00 until last guest. Closed Mon. EL RATZ This friendly and inviting little gay-friendly bar is one of the mainstays of the ever-changing Melville bar strip. The music is a danceable mix of 1980s pop, rock and disco with a liberal sprinkling of Katy Perry on top for good measure. Early evening it’s a good place for warm-up drinks and come midnight the tables are cleared and the dancing commences.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9965, ratzbar.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00. BW 44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE GOOD LUCK BAR Behind a pair of hulking triple-volume doors bearing decades-old warnings against the dangers of dynamite is this spacious warehouse turned live music club. There are gigs every weekend featuring everything from country and folk to Afrobeat and heavy metal.QB-5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 84 683 4413, goodluckbar.co.za. Open for gigs Fri, Sat nights and Sun afternoons. Tickets from R50. L THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience at this highly respected jazz club. A slick café-restaurant greets you downstairs, while upstairs the bar and a stage surrounded by tables await – reservations for these are advised.QC-3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit. co.za. Open 11:30–02:00. Closed Mon. Tickets from R80.

PARKER’S COMEDY AND JIVE Funnyman Joe Parker’s long-running comedy club is the site of Comedy Central’s live shows and regularly attracts some of South Africa’s best known stand-up acts. Book tickets online. Seating is unreserved. QMontecasino Casino and Entertainment Complex, Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 0082, parkerscomedy.com. Open from 18:30 (shows start at 20:00).

Closed Sun-Tue. Tickets from R120. L

CLUBS AND CLUB A gritty inner-city location hides one of the country’s leading house, techno and drum and bass clubs. A place for serious clubbers, inside the decor is minimalist with moody lighting, a bar, dance floor and a courtyard chill space. Take note there is a strict ‘phone off, party on’. policy.QB-4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, andclub.co.za. Open ThuSat 21:00–04:00. B TABOO This swanky Sandton nightclub fills up with the pumping sounds of top local and international house DJs. There are chic deck and plush lounge areas for when you want to take a breather and enjoy your cocktail. Beware the velvet rope – a smart dress code applies.QM-8, 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2200, taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Eland by Clive van den Berg, Braamfontein

Justin Lee

TOP 10 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS While Joburg may not have a majestic mountain or picturesque beaches to admire, what it lacks in natural splendour it more than makes up for with its rich history, burgeoning art scene and colourful street life. Whether you have only one day to explore the city or several, here’s our pick of 10 great ways to spend your time sightseeing in Joburg.

 LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY To get an in-depth view of South Africa’s complex history visit the extensive Apartheid Museum (see p. 48) for chiling reminders of the apartheid state’s cruelty, or take a tour of the former prison Constitution Hill (see p. 47) which is also home to South Africa’s Constitutional Court, an inspiring heritage landmark. Other must-visit places include the insightful and interactive museum at Liliesleaf (see p. 49), once the headquarters of the underground resistance led

by Nelson Mandela and Sophiatown – The Mix, a museum and community centre that tells the heartbreaking story of the forced removals of this vibrant community in 1955 (see p. 49).

 TRACE YOUR ORIGINS

Visit the educational and interactive Maropeng visitor’s centre in the Cradle of Humankind (a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site) to learn about the evolution of humankind. Take a tour of the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of world-famous hominids Mrs Ples and Little Foot were found (see p. 49). If you don’t have time to leave the city then visit the excellent Origins Centre in Braamfontein that celebrates the 80 000-year history of humanity (see p. 49). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

 RIDE THE OPEN-TOP CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS If you have limited time and you don’t have a car then the best way to get around and see the sights is on the City Sightseeing bus. The two open-top bus tour routes leave from the Gautrain stations at Rosebank and Park Station, stopping at all major heritage landmarks and accompanied by an insightful audio guide. There’s also a link to a 2-hour Soweto mini-bus tour which starts at the Gold Reef City -Apartheid Museum stop and a free city walking tour that leaves from Park Station. See page 47 for details.

 BOOK AN INNER-CITY WALKING TOUR Taking a guided walking tour is the best way to encounter the inner-city for the first time and experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view. Choose from tours focused on street art and graffiti, history and architecture, food and shopping or even pay a visit to a traditional healers market. See page 46 for our favourite Joburg walking tour companies.

 EXPLORE CONSTITUTION HILL

The buildings of the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill in Braamfontein reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th Century South Africa, while also showcasing the bright, optimistic future of the country enshrined in the modern Constitutional Court. The large complex is split into four parts and extensive permanent exhibits tell the stories of the many people who passed through this place. There is also a busy programme of regular events such as temporary exhibitions, markets, lectures, concerts and festivals (see p. 47).

February – April 2017 45

Sightseeing TOURS

Tastes of Yeoville, Dlala Nje DLALA NJE This innovative company offers walking tours in the inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturdays) and Yeoville (Sundays). You’ll get awe-inspiring views from the 52nd floor of Hillbrow’s Ponte building and a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine in Yeoville.

QG-2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea, tel. +27 72 397 2269, dlalanje.org. Tours from R460 per person.

JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION This advocacy organisation hosts a diverse range of worthwhile weekend walking and bus tours focused on the city’s history and architecture. QTel. +27 11 482 3349, joburgheritage.org.za. Tours from R130.

MAINSTREETWALKS Based in Maboneng, Bheki Dube’s tour company encourages visitors to discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot or by bike. Tours include major landmarks as well as more unusual places like Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the historic KwaMaiMai traditional healers market. Also offers Soweto tours. QG-5, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, mainstreetwalks.co.za. Two- to four-hour tours from R250.

PAST EXPERIENCES Choose from a range of well-researched offbeat walking tours that take in the inner city, its communities, buildings, history and street art, as well as tailor-made shopping tours. Specialists in graffiti tours. QTel. +27 11 678 3905, pastexperiences.co.za. Tours from R190.

ROVING BANTU TOURS Former anti-apartheid activist and exile Sifiso Ntuli shares his unique perspective on contemporary South Africa. Ntuli’s tours focus on the history, culture and food of lesser known neighbourhoods such as Fietas and pan-African Yeoville, starting from his café and events venue the Roving Bantu Kitchen.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648. Tours from R250 per hour for one person.

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Sightseeing: Constitution Hill  VISIT AN ART GALLERY Joburg has an exciting art scene and the city is blessed with several top contemporary art galleries. Most galleries are concentrated in three main areas: Maboneng, Braamfontein and Rosebank, and they are all free to visit. Explore the Art Gallery Row along Jan Smuts Avenue and Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank for the biggest collection of contemporary galleries (see our Rosebank feature on p. 36 for details) or pay a visit to Wits Art Museum (see p. 49) in Braamfontein to view an ever-changing collection of historic and contemporary African art.

 SPEND THE DAY IN SOWETO With a rich history, vibrant contemporary social scene and plenty of fun experiences on offer, Soweto has become one of the country’s top tourist attractions. Take a walking or cycling tour with a local guide, learn about the youth of 1976 and their role in the anti-apartheid struggle at the Hector Pieterson Museum, bungee jump from Soweto’s iconic cooling towers or just hang out for the afternoon on the famous Vilakazi Street, where Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu once lived. For more on what to see and do in Soweto see p. 53.

 TAKE A WALK IN THE PARK

Take a leisurely stroll through the Botanical Gardens at Emmarentia Dam or the park at Zoo Lake. For a short hike follow the nature trails that skirt the waterfall at the beautiful Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens. Golfers are spoilt for choice in Joburg with dozens of world-class courses located in and around the city. See p. 52 for a guide to the best places to spend time outdoors.

 GOLD RUSH HISTORY The search for gold has shaped Joburg dramatically during its 130-year history and still plays an important role in the city’s economy today. Visit the Ditsong Museum of Military History to learn more about the Anglo-Boer Wars and other conflicts sparked by the relentless hunt for mineral wealth. To see how Joburg’s well-off colonial middle classes lived at the turn of the century book a tour and high tea at Lindfield House museum (see p. 49). Take a stroll through the historic Main Street Mining District downtown between Gandhi Square and Ntemi Piliso Street to see the relics of Joburg’s early mining heritage such as mining headgear, stamp presses and mining carts complemented by information boards detailing the city’s gold rush history.

 HANG OUT AT A PAVEMENT CAFÉ Sometimes the best sightseeing is done from the comfort of a neighbourhood café. Get a taste for Joburg’s urban regeneration in fashionable Maboneng or Braamfontein, spend the afternoon on Parkhurst’s pretty main street 4th Avenue, explore the bohemian suburb of Melville with a visit to 27 Boxes or browse the boutiques and take time out for a coffee or craft beer in the pretty interlinked courtyards of 44 Stanley in Milpark. See Where to Eat. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Number 4 Prison, Constitution Hill

CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is a historical treasure in the heart of the city. A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 Prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place. The inspiring court building represents the achievement of democracy post-1994.

At the centre is an open plaza where the eternal Flame of Democracy burns. Nearby is the ticket office and City Sightseeing bus stop. Entrance to the fort ramparts and the Constitutional Court is free, while a single entrance fee is charged for access to the museum sights. You can opt to guide yourself around the complex at your own pace or join the guided tour which is included in the entrance fee.

TOURS OF CONSTITUTION HILL A one-hour guided tour of Constitution Hill’s highlights leaves on the hour every hour and a two-hour tour of the entire complex leaves twice a day at 10:00 and at 13:00. The one hour ‘highlights’ tour is ideal for visitors with limited time to spend at Constitution Hill, as it visits the Number 4 section, the Constitutional Court and the Women’s Gaol or the Old Fort (depending on time of day) and covers the entire 120 year history of this important place. A selection of special themed tours is also available for groups. These include the Mandela-themed Walk with Madiba tour, the Art and Justice tour of the South African Constitutional Court and its many beautiful artworks, the interactive Time Travel tour where visitors become prisoners (you’ll even be provided with your own prison uniform!) and a night tour of the complex which begins with sundowners on the old fort ramparts. All special themed tours must be booked in advance (minimum group size is 10). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CONTACT DETAILS D-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Entrance to museum areas R65, kids, students R30, pensioners R45 (includes optional one hour guided tour), entrance plus two hour guided tour R85, kids, students R55, pensioners R60. Discounts are available for groups and visitors using the City Sightseeing red bus. Tickets can be booked online at webtickets.co.za.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS

This open-top, hop-on hop-off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red City route starts at Park Station Gautrain and has 11 stops that include the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill (the bus ride takes two hours). The Red City route also links to a whistle-stop two-hour minibus tour of Soweto from the Apartheid Museum (every hour between 10:05–14:05) and a free downtown walking tour from Park Station (tours at 10:30, 13:00 and 15:30). The Green route (one hour) starts at Rosebank Gautrain station and stops include Zoo Lake, Johannesburg Zoo and Constitution Hill. QTel. 0861 733 287, citysightseeing. co.za/johannesburg. Buses leave every 30–40 mins.

First bus 09:00, last bus 15:40. Tickets from R190 (R170 online), valid for the Red City tour and Green City tour.

Joburg and Soweto combo ticket from R420.

February – April 2017 47

Sightseeing

Sightseeing LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the ANC and where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated. Engrossing displays provide an in-depth look at the lives of the leaders who gathered here. Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00. Sat, Sun 09:00– 16:00. Admission R110, kids 8-17 yrs old R50, pensioners R40, students R60, under 7, free.

LINDFIELD HOUSE This unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Dressed in Victorian costume Love guides you through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that conjure the everyday life of that era.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, lindfield. wix.com/museum. Open 10:00–17:00, by appointment only. Tours from R50, with tea and cake R70, high tea R120.

Victorian house museum Lindfield House, Auckland Park

MAROPENG AND STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the visitors’ centre for the Unesco-protected World Heritage site, the Cradle of Humankind. Take a journey into humankind’s evolution led by interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day. A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves, where the remains of world-famous hominids were discovered. A 45-minute guided tour of the caves leaves every half-hour.QR400 off R563 Hekpoort Rd, Sterkfontein, tel. +27 14 577 9100, maropeng.co.za. Vistors’ centre open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combination ticket (Maropeng and caves) R190. Discounts for kids, students and pensioners. Last tours at both sites at 16:00.

Heather Mason

MUSEUMS APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders.

We recommend you give yourself a few hours to take it all in. QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum. org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R80, kids, pensioners and students R65. Not suitable for young children.

Guided tours R85 per person (booking essential).

ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team wearing a Springbok jersey here. This quirky rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia.

Fans can also book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium.

QG-3, Emirates Airline Park, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein.

Open weekdays 10:00–15:00 (entrance via main gate).

Call James Dalton Snr on +27 82 791 9992 to book a visit.

CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum was once the offices of the city’s first black law firm – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheid’s restrictions. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of a young Nelson Mandela. Walk one block west to 1 Fox Precinct, home of 1 Fox Market Shed and Mad Giant brewery (see Nightlife).QC-5, Cnr Fox St and Gerard Sekoto St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT The largest transport museum in Africa, the eclectic collection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motorbikes, horse-drawn wagons, fire engines, penny farthing bicycles and even steam-powered tractors.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, jhmt.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Closed Mon. Admission is free.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars, illustrated by an impressive range of vehicles, uniforms and weaponry.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 10 001 3515, ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat–Sun 09:00–16:30 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Admission R40, kids R30, pensioners R20.

48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

HOLOCAUST AND GENOCIDE CENTRE This centre brings together the parallel narratives of the genocide committed by Nazi Germany during World War II and the more recent genocide that occurred in Rwanda in 1994. The museum takes its message from the writings of death camp survivor Primo Levi: ‘It happened, therefore it can happen again’ and seeks to be a permanent reminder of the dangers of indifference.QJan Smuts Ave (cnr Duncombe Rd), Forest Town, tel. +27 11 640 3100, holocaust. org.za. Open 08:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum explores the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, including ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.

QB-2, Wits University campus, cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, oricuriocity JoburgAdmission in your pocket.pdf gins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00.

R80, students R45, kids under 12 R40. Guided tours from R200.

Mandela mural by Freddy Sam, Maboneng

Justin Lee

SOPHIATOWN – THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma.

It is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals.Q71–73 Toby St, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, sophiatown.net. Open 09:00–16:30. Closed Sun (visits on Sun by prior arrangement). Admission R35, tour R70. Sophiatown walking tour R120.

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WITS ART MUSEUM (WAM) Home to an extraordinary collection of contemporary and historical African art, the exhibitions change regularly and there’s also a dynamic events programme that includes guided walks with curators and art workshops for kids.

The museum has a budget-friendly café, Olives and Plates, serving light meals.QB-2, University Corner, cnr Bertha 18/04/2016 and Jorissen Sts, 07:51 Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

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February – April 2017 49

Johannesburg Development Agency (JDA) A view of downtown Joburg

Sponsored feature Anton Bosman

Take a downtown day trip Behind the scenes of the many exciting neighbourhood regeneration projects taking place across downtown Joburg is the handiwork of the Johannesburg Development Agency (JDA) who have been laying the groundwork for private developers and entrepreneurs to build upon. Here is our pick of five downtown neighbourhoods to explore.

 BRAAMFONTEIN Many city visitors start their urban explorations in Braamfontein, a short walk from the Park Station Gautrain and also a stop on the open-top City Sightseeing bus. With the Wits University campus based here, Braamfontein is a youthful neighbourhood that also has a rich arts and culture scene. The corner of Juta and De Beer Streets is the hub of much of the action with cafés, coffee shops and lively bars. Every Saturday crowds flock to the rooftop Neighbourgoods Market. Meanwhile a few blocks over is The Grove, a colourful piazza looked over by the new Once in Joburg backpackers hostel and hotel. The JDA has been investing in this area’s development since 2002 and their work includes the installation of a host of public artworks including the colourful steel trees that line Juta Street and the giant Eland sculpture that greets visitors driving up Jan Smuts Avenue, at one of the key gateways to the city.

The JDA was also instrumental in the transformation of the Constitution Hill precinct, one of Joburg’s most important heritage landmarks (see p. 47) and led the construction of the Nelson Mandela Bridge (completed in 2003) which crosses over the railway tracks between Braamfontein and Newtown. The iconic bridge lights up in rainbow colours at night.

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

What to do and how to get there Hang out on Juta Street, visit Origins Centre, Wits Art Museum and Constitution Hill, grab lunch on a Saturday at the Neighbourgoods Market, see a show at Joburg Theatre and shop for local fashion. The City Sightseeing bus has three Braamfontein stops and the Rea Vaya C-4 also stops here. Braamfontein is a 5-minute walk from Park Station.

 NEWTOWN Drive along Queen Elizabeth bridge from Braamfontein to see The Firewalker, a collaboration between world renowned South African artist William Kentridge and Gerhard Marx. The 11-metre high fractured metal sculpture resembles a woman walking with a coal brazier on her head (a The JDA manages and facilitates developments that contribute to building an equitable, sustainable and resilient city. The agency was set up to facilitate area-based developments that bring to life the City of Johannesburg’s development vision. Its key programmes are focused on creating sustainable environments and transport networks, transit nodes that provide access to affordable accommodation and transport, high quality public spaces and amenities, and good community services. The agency’s work is aimed at shifting the design of the city to to improve liveability. A key part is the regeneration of the inner city. Since 2001 the JDA has worked on enhancing the city’s cultural and tourism potential, working with private companies and interests to meet the needs of all those who live in the city. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

familiar city sight). Take a right after the statue and drive down Gwigwi Mrwebi Street to reach Newtown, one of the largest urban developments led by the JDA. At its centre is Newtown Junction shopping precinct and a new City Lodge Hotel.

Newtown was once the site of the city’s fruit and vegetable markets. In 2015 the old potato sheds (built in 1911) were cleverly restored and now house fashion emporium Work Shop New Town and the steam-punk styled Potato Shed restaurant. Another unusual heritage landmark, an old Edwardian men’s toilet, was also recently repurposed and is now The Gentleman’s Arthouse, an exclusive avant-garde bar filled with antique curios.

Eagle-eyed visitors will notice that many of the streets in Newtown have been named for South African jazz legends such as singer Miriam Makeba and saxophonist Gwigwi Mrwebi. Another jazz legend Jeremiah “Kippie” Moeketsi is immortalised in a bronze statue (installed with the JDA’s assistance) outside what was once Kippies jazz club. Across the walkway is The Market Theatre. A leading South African theatre, it has occupied the site of the old Indian fruit market since 1976 and is a cornerstone of the Newtown Cultural Precinct.

What to do and how to get there Shop at Work Shop New Town, see a show at The Market Theatre and eat at The Potato Shed. The City Sightseeing bus and C-3 Rea Vaya bus stop at Newtown Junction.

 FERREIRASDORP Some five blocks south of Newtown the district of Ferreirasdorp, once the site of Joburg’s earliest gold mining claims, has seen much regeneration and investment from the JDA in recent years. The area’s newest landmark is 1 Fox Precinct, which dates back to the 1890s. Launched in 2015, this neatly contained former warehouse complex is home to the Good Luck Bar live music venue, Mad Giant craft brewery and beer garden and the 1 Fox Market Shed.

Chancellor House, the building from where Oliver Tambo and Nelson Mandela ran their legal practice in the 1950s is another major attraction in the area. It now houses an open-air exhibition on their groundbreaking legal work.

Standing tall with the Magistrate’s Court at his back is Marco Cianfanelli’s impressive statue of a young Mandela shadowboxing, installed by the JDA in 2013.

Arts On Main (cnr Fox St and Berea Rd) was the pioneering development. Its tenants include David Krut Projects print studio, a craft brewery and artist William Kentridge’s private studio as well as the weekly Market On Main. Since its opening the precinct has expanded massively with cafés, bars, galleries, boutiques and dozens of smart residential buildings. These include the cleverly restored Victorian heritage building The Cosmopolitan.

With the JDA’s support Maboneng’s next phase is taking place north of Albertina Sisulu Road. The newest building to launch is Hallmark House, designed by London-based African architect David Adjaye which includes a boutique hotel and designer apartments.

What to do and how to get there Explore art galleries and Sunday’s Market On Main, go boutique shopping, feast on global cuisines, admire the street art and stay over at Curiocity Backpackers or Hallmark House. Take the C-1 Rea Vaya bus from Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre to the Jeppe SAPS stop.

 ELLIS PARK PRECINCT Neighbouring Maboneng is Ellis Park Precinct in Doornfontein, named for the Ellis Park rugby stadium (now known as Emirates Airline Park). Next door is Ellis Park swimming pool and athletics stadium. The rugby stadium was a match venue for the 2010 FIFA World Cup and leading up to the event the JDA carried out extensive upgrades here which included a Rea Vaya bus route and the installation of numerous football-inspired artworks. The global event acted as a catalyst for further investment in the area. The most recent new developments include the transformation of the old tennis club into Living Artist Emporium artist studios and of the Ellis House building (23 Voorhout St) into an arts hub. A few blocks away in Lorentzville is Nando’s Central Kitchen (10 Victoria Rd), headquarters of one of South Africa’s most celebrated global brands.

What to do and how to get there Watch a match at Emirates Airline Park or browse the area’s art galleries. Take the C-1 or T-1 Rea Vaya bus from Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre.

What to do and how to get there Eat and drink at Mad Giant or 1 Fox Market Shed, go to a gig at the Good Luck Bar and visit Chancellor House. The C-3 Rea Vaya bus stops at Chancellor House.

 MABONENG This district came to life in 2008 when local entrepreneur Jonathan Liebmann bought up dozens of rundown industrial warehouses and factories on the city’s eastern edge.

He then set about transforming them with the help of the JDA (co-initiators on the redevelopment of the area). Today Maboneng comprises 55 buildings and is one of the city’s trendiest areas. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Walter and Albertina Sisulu, one of many JDA-initiated city artworks

Justin Lee

For all address and contact details go to iyp.me/74623f.

See pages 64-65 for the City Centre map.

February – April 2017 51

Parks & outdoors

Sightseeing: Soweto PARKS AND GARDENS JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS This sprawling green oasis incorporating the popular Emmarentia Dam, has extensive parkland for long walks. Also favoured by cyclists and dog walkers. The spectacular terraced rose garden with its fountains is popular for weekend weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064.

Melville Koppies Nature Reserve

Sudhir Misra

FAMILY FUN ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area of Melrose (strict safety procedures in place). Five courses to choose from, plus the Big Zip Line.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Adults from R250, kids R100–R200.

GOLD REEF CITY THEME PARK The best amusement and theme park, with attractions for all ages. Opt for extreme rides like the Anaconda, Jozi Express and Tower of Terror, or a gentle train ride around the park with a soft-serve ice cream in hand. Visit a disused mine shaft, try gold panning and tour a recreated mining village.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, goldreefcity.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 09:30–17:00, daily during school holidays. Admission R190.

JOHANNESBURG ZOO Walk on the wild side on close to 54 hectares to view nearly 2 000 animals including the Big 5, white lions and a wide variety of birds and reptiles.QJan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, jhbzoo.org.za. Open 08:30–17:00.

Admission R80, kids (3–12 years) R50.

JOZI X Catering for the superactive, from five to 75 years old, Jozi X offers fun for extreme-adventure fans. There’s mountain boarding, a slackline park, big-wheel trike drifting, a parkour gym and the star attraction: an extreme wipeout course.

QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, jozix.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission Wed–Fri R100, weekends R120.

MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS With hundreds of fascinating bird species, from domestic to exotic, birds of prey plus a huge pelican, this is a super attraction for all ages. Visit in time for the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Blv, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, montecasino.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00.

Admission R70, kids (under 10 years) R39.

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE A nature reserve and heritage site, the Melville Koppies boasts archaeological remains of Stone Age and Iron Age settlements, and great views over the city. There are guided walks on Sunday morningsQCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, mk.org.za. Admission R50, kids R20.

ZOO LAKE Picnic, feed the ducks and hire a rowboat to enjoy this space. There are also basketball courts, a walking track, a kid’s play area with great climbing equipment, as well as Moyo African restaurant and gift shop. Popular with walkers and runners, this park tends to get busy and rather messy at weekends, with families and big groups intent on a good time gathering for barbecues and picnics.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131.

SPA ESCAPE AMANI SPA, HYATT REGENCY With a rooftop location on the sixth floor this is the place to retreat for a slice of calm in busy Rosebank. Signature treatments include the Jewel of Africa Massage, 90 minutes focused on complete relaxation, and the Amani Cocoon, a nourishing full body exfoliation and wrap accompanied by a head and foot massage. In laid-back surroundings, enjoy a wide range of beauty and spa treatments incorporating traditional and more alternative elements like hydrotherapy, some designed specifically to make you forget the stress of travelling. After your treatment laze at the poolside or take a dip in the hot tub. The lunch menu has a good selection of light meals and by international hotel standards is super reasonable.

Service is top-notch and you’ll find yourself willing the day not to end. Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 09:00-20:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00-18:00.

Amani Spa, Hyatt Regency johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Hand-painted sneaker art on Vilakazi Street, Soweto In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up to fight against inferior education. But the history of Soweto goes back a lot further to the 1930s when it housed black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive. Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for selfcatering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include firesidestorytelling evenings, gigs and bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours of Soweto.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

ZAZAS GUEST HOUSE AND SPA An immaculate upmarket guest house in the heart of Soweto. The glossy contemporary decor wouldn’t be out of place in an episode of the Bold and the Beautiful, and facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Brett Magill there’s also a day spa where you can get a manicure, pedicure, massage or facial.Q96 Mphatlatsamaru St, Zone 5, Pimville, tel. +27 11 933 2036, zazasguesthouse.co.za.

TOURS LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Started by local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa, Lebo’s bicycle tours are a must-do (the less athletic can opt for a tuk-tuk tour). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and local delicacies. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back with a cold drink and a delicious homemade bunny chow in the park adjoining the backpackers. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted rates on all tours. QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, sowetobicycletours.com. Bicycle tours from R430, tuk-tuk tours from R385. Group discounts available.

BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto. An avid conservationist Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A particular highlight is the hike up Enoch Sontonga koppie, offering spectacular views of Soweto. Tours are on foot or by bike. Historical and cultural tours are also available. QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R450.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo Dube (aka TK) specialises in walking tours of Kliptown, a poor neighbourhood with a rich history. Tours are flexible and adapt to the interests of the group, whether it be traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti or street food that catch your eye. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for some volunteer work.QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or email tktours.dube13@gmail.com to book. Tours from R250.

February – April 2017 53

Sightseeing: Soweto

Sightseeing: Soweto HECTOR PIETERSON MUSEUM AND MEMORIAL This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best.

Startling photography, personal testimonies, video and informative texts are used to great effect to provide an indepth examination of the events leading up to the Soweto uprising of 1976 and in particular the terrible events of June 16 when scores of protesting Sowetan schoolchildren were killed by the police. Please note no cameras are allowed inside the museum. Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, kids (13 years and above) R10.

Kofi, Vilakazi Street

WHAT TO SEE VILAKAZI STREET The most famous street in all of Soweto lays claim to two Nobel prize-winning residents: Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his then wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and his modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. A tourism hub and popular hangout for middle-class Sowetans, the street is lined with busy restaurants (look our for Restaurant Vilakazi, a good breakfast stop and Vuyos for modern African cuisine) and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes. You’ll also find streetside stalls where you can buy local crafts and souvenirs. At the top of Vilakazi Street don’t miss The Box Shop (7166-7176 Vilakazi St), an eyecatching cube built from shipping containers that houses a boutique and Kofi, Soweto’s first coffee roasters. The excellent Hector Pieterson Museum is just around the corner.

KLIPTOWN MUSEUM This often overlooked museum next to the upmarket Soweto Hotel brings the story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People to life. Creative displays detail the increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced under apartheid, as well as the peaceful efforts made by people from all walks of life to lobby for a free and democratic South Africa. After visiting the museum, take in the bustling main street of historic Kliptown which skirts around the square, with its general dealers and traditional medicine shops, and finish off your visit with a signature Kliptini cocktail at the hotel. QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union St and Main Rd, Kliptown, Soweto, tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

NELSON MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Nelson Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house with his second wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s. In order to make the house into a museum it has been considerably altered. Inside, the small rooms are now filled with memorabilia including letters, gifts and awards, as well as some original items of furniture. A small museum, the visit

SOWETO MAP

will not take much more than 15 minutes. Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 936 7754, open 09:00– 17:00. Admission R60 (citizens of African Union countries R40), kids (over 6 years) R20, kids (under 6 years) R5.

ORLANDO TOWERS These two huge cooling towers covered in colourful murals are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark and a magnet for thrill seekers. Bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top of the towers and then catch your breath at the Chaf Pozi beer garden and shisa nyama (traditional South African barbecue) restaurant next to the towers. QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset or by prior arrangement. Chaf Pozi tel. +27 11 463 8895, chafpozi. co.za. Open Wed, Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. REGINA MUNDI CHURCH Rockville’s Catholic church, built in 1964, played a hugely significant role in the struggle against apartheid and even has the bullet holes to prove it. This was also the place where Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu presided over the Truth and Reconciliation Commission hearings from 1995 to 1998. The largest Catholic church in South Africa, it can accommodate 2 000 people sitting or 5 000 standing.

The church is next to Thokoza Park, a popular location for weekend picnics.Q1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville, Soweto, tel +27 11 986 2546, Open 09:00– 17:00. Sunday services 07:00, 09:00. Admission R20.

UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN Home of Soweto Gold craft beer. Tour the brewery before heading to the beer garden for a tasting and to sample the lip-smacking ‘gourmet township grill’ menu.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext., Soweto, tel. +27 74 738 0355, sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

WHERE TO EAT

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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KOFI NEW You’ll find Soweto’s first coffee roaster in The Box Shop, an innovative container development on Vilakazi Street housing a boutique stocking local labels, a cool furniture store and a business hub for entrepreneurs. The Kofi shop is a chilled rooftop spot for great coffee, pastries and fruity frozen drinks. The beans are sourced from Ethiopia and Tanzania and roasted locally by the attentive owners who are Soweto-born. QThe Box Shop, 7166-7176 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 84 665 2400, kofishop. co.za. Open 08:00–20:00, Fri 08:00–20:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–20:30. B

Meat is a staple of township cuisine served shisa nyamastyle (barbecued) or as a rich stew, and accompanied by pap (maize porridge), morogo (leafy vegetables) and spicy chakalaka relish. Alongside the usual cuts you’ll also find specialities like tripe, ox liver and even s’kop (slow braised cow’s head) and ‘walkie talkies’ (spiced, grilled chicken feet). Bunny chows and kotas (hollowed-out bread loaves filled with curry or chips and sausage meat) are popular street food.

LEBO’S OUTDOOR RESTAURANT Located in a shady spot in the small park in front of Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, come here for the best bunny chows made with the freshest bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, Orlando West. Lunch 12:00–14:00. Breakfast available 07:30–10:30, dinner 18:30–20:00. Groups require prior booking. EB

CHAF POZI Sprawling in the shadow of the Orlando Towers (see above), this is a local institution. A hugely popular weekend party spot for enjoying a beer and some shisa nyama with DJs playing everything from township jazz, to deep house, hip-hop and kwaito. Reservations recommended. Orlando Towers, see above for address. Tel. +27 81 797 5756, chafpozi.co.za. Open 11:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–00:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. EB

SAKHUMZI This famous restaurant has a prime location in the centre of touristy Vilakazi Street. The food is typical African township fare and if you have been hankering to try local dishes such as mogodu (tripe stew) this is the place for it. There’s a large buffet plus an a la carte menu with burgers and omelettes for the less adventurous.Q6980 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 536 1379, sakhumzi.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Fri-Sun 11:00–24:00. EB

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February – April 2017 55

Shopping

Basalt, Parkhurst

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES ANTS NEW This concept store in Parkhurst is a showcase of Mozambican owner Guiyani Monteiro’s favourite items and features an ever-changing mix of local and international design, art, fashion, home furnishings and music. Housed in a converted 1940s home this store also plays host to regular pop-up events.QJ-12, 57 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 72 053 1257, weareants.com. Open 10:00–18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. BASALT NEW Basalt specialises in unique handcrafted ceramic tableware and delicate homeware carved from natural materials such as stone or teak. The store also has a ‘flavour library’ selling exotic mustards, salts and peppers and a signature range of potpourri made using African shrubs and flowers. If you are buying something as a gift, take advantage of the masterful gift-wrapping service.QJ-11, shop 22b 4th Ave Parkhurst, tel. +27 63 693 4947, @basalt_home on Instagram.

Open 10:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. FIREHOUSE Supporting local enterprise and Fair Trade businesses this store, tucked behind the popular Fournos Bakery, stocks linen, ceramics, tableware, costume jewellery and homewares from essentials to luxury gifts.Q6 Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2225, fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of this innovative photography collective of young men formerly from a children’s shelter. Their images of the city decorate walls, notebooks and other items, and make great gifts.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Also at Rosebank Mall.

56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MAKOTIS Makotis (‘bride’ in Zulu) is run by the Wadee family who have been selling traditional fabrics and bespoke garments since 1961. At the sister store to the original shop in the fashion district (112 Helen Joseph St), you can browse for bold shweshwe fabrics in the biggest range of colours and prints. QG-5, Cnr Kruger and Main Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 900 4158, makotis.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00 (Fri closed 12:30–14:00), Sat, Sun10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. NORMAN GOODFELLOWS Not just another bottle store, Norman Goodfellows has been around for 40 years and specialises in expert advice and service and stocks the broadest range of local and imported alcohol brands. Nowhere in Joburg can boast a better selection of top South African and international wine labels, craft spirits and craft beers. Order online or visit this flagship store. See website for other branches.QL-11, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 10 140 4888, ngf.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, Closed Sun. PIECE@ELLIS HOUSE NEW Michelle Obama and Elton John are just some of the celebrities who have purchased exceptional crafted works here.

This new store, relocated from Rosebank, stocks jewellery, clothing and fashion accessories, that are created in collaboration with craft artists, based on Fair Trade principles.QH-3, 5th Floor, Ellis House, 23 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein, tel. +27 83 400 5126. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. WORK SHOP NEW TOWN Housed in Newtown’s historic Potato Sheds (c. 1911), this unique space showcases an eclectic array of local fashion and design brands. QB-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping LUXURY SHOPPING

Shopping MALLS MALL OF AFRICA Opened in 2016, Mall of Africa has more than 300 shops spread over a whopping 130 000 square metres of shopping space with all the big high-street names represented plus a wide selection of restaurants and fast food outlets.

While there check out Waterfall Park adjacent to the mall to see the Wi-Fi enabled interactive fountain. If you're not driving take the Gautrain to Midrand and catch the Gautrain bus to the mall.QLone Creek and Magwa Crs, Waterfall City, tel. +27 10 596 1470, mallofafrica.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–20:00.

DIAMOND WALK AT SANDTON CITY The place to visit for the largest collection of the most coveted international luxury labels to be found in Joburg including leading names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. There’s also a champagne bar and a shop specialising in French champagnes like Perrier-Jouët.

QL-9, Sandton City, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity. com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE This spacious mall links to Sandton City and is built around an open piazza flanked by restaurants and bars.

Top luxury labels to look out for include Lorenzi’s handmade leather goods, crafted using brightly coloured exotic leathers, Collective by Charles Greig that stocks a range of contemporary luxury items representing the finest African-made design and Shimansky for glittering diamond jewellery.QL-9, entrance on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–18:00.

BRYLLIANTA DIAMONDS & TANZANITE A plush, private and secure appointment-only jewel boutique for diamonds and tanzanite offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop.QL-9, The Forum of Sandton Square (16th floor), 2 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121, bryna@bryllianta.com.

LUMINANCE ‘Live Life Beautifully’ is the slogan of this luxury department store, which offers its clients an exclusive, highend shopping experience with dozens of top local and international designer fashion and accessory brands for men and women. Book an exclusive personal shopping experienceQL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, tel. +27 11 326 7941, luminanceonline.com.

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ORIENTAL PLAZA For a different pace to the malls of the northern suburbs, head to this thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jeweled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions, all the while fuelled by the legendary samoosas from the World of Samoosas kiosk. For lunch stop at The Golden Peacock restaurant.QA-4/5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers.

ROSEBANK MALL The heart of Rosebank’s shopping precinct, this mall has more than 150 stores including an impressive array of local and international high-street brands, plus an arthouse cinema and gym. Stop in at Exclusive Books for the latest local and international titles, and linger for a flat white at the cool coffee bar. For camping and safari essentials visit Cape Union Mart. The mall also has a choice of supermarkets and pharmacies, two department stores, Edgars and Stuttafords and huge daily African art and craft market. The rooftop is the location for the popular weekly Rosebank Sunday Market.QK-12, Entrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 27 11 788 5530, rosebankmall. co.za. Open from 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

SANDTON CITY Known as ‘Africa’s richest square mile’, central Sandton is a shopping mecca and the country’s financial capital. At its centre is the famous Sandton City shopping mall. There are literally hundreds of shops including the flagship stores of major local and international fashion, sports and design brands, plus department stores, a cinema multiplex, food court, various supermarkets, cafés and restaurants and so much more. A shoppers’ paradise, once you figure out your way around you’ll find everything you need under one roof.

The mall is directly linked to Nelson Mandela Square and Diamond Walk.QL-9, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity.com.

Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Cosmopolitan, Maboneng

Justin Lee

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 27 BOXES The Bohemian suburb of Melville has always attracted an eclectic mix of people, reflected in the shopping options to be found here. On 3rd Avenue, off Melville’s quirky 7th Street, is 27 Boxes, an alternative shopping centre built entirely from shipping containers whose stores and clientele reflect Melville’s love for local brands and aversion to chain stores. The centre is home to dozens of small local businesses, among them fashion boutiques like Mantsho Lifestyle for elegant African contemporary womenswear, Kuna, known for super cute kidswear in vibrant African prints and the inviting Krag Drag store whose witty T-shirts and other retro-inspired items reference South African popular culture. The innovative Concrete Jungle sells home and fashion accessories crafted from concrete, while Republic of Recycle creates backpacks, pencil cases and hats from recycled packaging materials. On the food side take your pick from Thai stir fries, fancy cupcakes and freshly squeezed juices or enjoy craft beers and gastropub dishes at the steampunk-styled restaurant The Countess.Q76 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Open from 10:00. Closed Mon. Night market Wed 17:00–21:00.

44 STANLEY Set in a converted 1930s industrial complex, 44 Stanley is a charming space with lots of cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees and plenty of chic little boutiques. For fashion, look out for Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe for form-fitting tailored clothing, Black Coffee for artfully constructed fashion statement items, and Love Jozi for iconic T-shirts and homeware objects that celebrate Joburg (the two labels share a store). There’s also a super collection of homeware stores, nail bar Polish, and excellent coffee plus Fair Trade African beans to take home from Bean There.Q44 Stanley facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00 and Sun 10:00–15:00. Note many shops and cafés do not open on Mon. BRAAMFONTEIN Streetwear and sportswear aficionados flock to this vibrant city neighbourhood for limited-edition brands. Stores to look out for include X-Trend, a sneaker haven that stocks unique collaborations by top international brands, such as Converse, Nike and New Balance (C-2/3, 20 Melle St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 1078. Open 08:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00); and Puma Select concept store (only one of two in the world), a shrine to sportswear selling unique and highly collectable limited-edition pieces (C-3, 81 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 3096, pumaselect.co.za. Open 09:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–18:00.

Closed Sun).

THE COSMOPOLITAN Maboneng’s newest attraction is an extraordinary Victorian building designed in 1899 that had a stint as a city hotel but then spent decades boarded up. The owners of Hazard Gallery have sensitively converted this run-down space, and it now houses a concept store, The Cosmopolitan, with a number of small branded shops that stock designer items. Here you will also find hatwear by milliner Crystal Birch and the African tea shop Yswara stocking a wide range of luxury teas. A superb sculpture garden occupies the courtyard. The Cosmopolitan Bar serves up gastropub wine-paired dishes by chef Dario de Angeli.QG-4, 24 Albrecht St, Maboneng, City Centre, thecosmopolitan. joburg. Shops and gallery open Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, The Cosmpolitan Bar, tel. +27 82 422 8158, open Wed– Sat 12:00–22:–30, Sun 12:00–18:00.

February – April 2017 59

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Shopping

Violet Moon T-shirt painting, Bryanston Organic & Natural Market

24-hour city Rosebank Art & Craft Market

Justin Lee

MARKETS Head to one or more of Joburg’s many markets to mingle with locals, eat tasty food, sample craft beer, shop and keep the whole family entertained. With each offering different attractions, there’s something for every taste.

27 BOXES NIGHT MARKET This weekly night market at Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes centre brings together fashion, craft and unique design courtesy of the many boutiques and pop-up stores, plus a great choice of tasty dinner options from the centre’s cute cafés and food stalls serving an ever-changing choice of cuisines such as Thai spring rolls, Congolese grilled fish and decadent cronuts.Q75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Every Wed 17:00–21:00.

BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, organic and preservative-free home-baked goods, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight. The market’s free shuttle picks up visitors at all the major Sandton hotels, with a return trip via Liliesleaf (see Museums). See website for details.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket. co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

MARKET AT THE FORT This small monthly market set in the courtyard of Constitution Hill attracts a youthful cool city crowd and deep house fans. You’ll find a mix of African food, fashion, natural haircare products, used books and vinyl.QD-2, Constitution Hill, 11 Kotze St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 81 561 0260, constitutionhill.org.za. Last Sat of every month from 10:00–17:00. See p. 47.

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls, a sunny courtyard and a craft brewery plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market, that spills out onto the surrounding streets, an addictive Sunday destination.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain. co.za, Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg, Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET This one-stop spot has the widest range of African souvenirs with traders from across the continent selling handcrafted items such as beaded sculptures, West African masks and quintessential Big Five figurines. ‘This is Africa.

We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QK-12, Rosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00– 19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Taking up a large covered rooftop space this market brings together a wide range of talented crafters, plus candlemakers, antiques dealers and a choice of clothing stalls selling vintage and contemporary fashion. Don’t leave without eating from the food stalls – look out for the homemade falafel and hummus from King Arabic Sandwich. Flea market enthusiasts will enjoy the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.QK-12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7820 rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

ALCOHOL Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants will allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. Different provinces have different rules regulating the sale of alcohol at retail stores. Generally speaking you can’t buy booze in a store after 15:00 on a Sunday and most bottle stores close by 17:00 on other days. The legal drinking age is 18. If driving be aware that the legal alcohol limit for being behind the wheel is very low; less than 0.05g per 100ml (blood) or less than 0.24mg in 1 000ml of breath (this amounts to about two drinks over the space of 75 minutes).

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Forfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Anton Bosman eign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joeys, City of Gold PROVINCE Joburg is in Gauteng province ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius February – April 2017 61

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62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and almost all big shopping malls are open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Branches of the South African Post Office can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

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EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card. From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) to be connected to a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the service closest to you. You can also call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services (toll-free call from a landline, cellphones charged at normal rates). For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

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Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions).

If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, All text added in InDesign security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

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There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Easter Monday Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

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DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). Numbers starting 086 can only be dialled from within South Africa. For directory enquiries dial 1023.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa.

LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life.

POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system.

The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC).

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory).

SMOKING Smoking is banned in public places and despite it carrying a R500 penalty you will find people smoking on terraces and in doorways of bars and restaurants. Look out for specially designated smoking areas. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (joburgtourism.com), Gauteng Tourism (gauteng.net) and Sandton Tourism (sandtontourism.com).

VAT A tax of 14 percent is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (taxrefunds.co.za).

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325 or +27 82 443 5366, emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QNetcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, tel. +27 11 806 1500.

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NEED TO KNOW

MEDICAL CARE

Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs.

Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

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Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cigarettes R45 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R12 Loaf of bread R10–R12 Local beer (in a bar) R22–R28

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d

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Durban S

Melrose St

Salisbury St

t

son St

Albert St

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ert S

St

St

Main St

t

 Goud

Marshall

St



Fox St

th

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2

d

by R

Der

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St

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MABONENG

St

Nugget S

Mooi St

Polly St

sioner Commis

St

St 

 Troye

ndis St

Kruis St

lligh St

Delvers

Von Wei





 End

Sisulu Rd

Albertina

 Ander

t

iem

n St

t

St

St

ph St 

St Marshall son St  Ander

Harries S

S

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St

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CARLTON CENTRE

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Helen Jose

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t

t

Mo

Kerk St

Polly St

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 Rahim

LITTLE ADDIS

ht A v

St

ll St

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5 C t harles S sely S

St a Moosa

Dora

Sive

Pierse

t St

t Nind S

Heigh

e Sherw

t

St

Klein St

yi St 

Fortesque Rd

Joe Slovo Dr

e Rd



Quartz S

Busway

Curr

Bruyn St rs St

Grafton Rd

op Tudh

Claim St

ell St

Bok St

De Villie

t

D

Von Bra

St

St

M2

Rissik S

St

St

xt

Kay S t Tho rpe St God frey St

Eloff St

Loveday

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Harrison

Simmon

Maclaren

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STANDARD BANK GALLERY

Kruis St

St missioner

RAND CLUB  Com

8

v rine A

St

Edith Cav

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

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t

Beit S

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DOORNFONTEIN

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d

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St

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Rd 

ea

Ber

Charlton Terrace

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v

aA

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ra Sa

Plein St 

HIGH COURT

ndis St

Al

t

Kort St

Fraser S

sulu Rd bertina Si

Von Bra

Eloff St

St

St

Joubert

Loveday

St 

th Drive

Elizabe

Seme St

St

d

Ter

Gordon Terrace

PONTE

eld R

t

rS

R ace

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Koch St

St

nte

se Te

Hadfi

ds

lan

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1

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Durban Rd

Percy St

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JAG

Hendon

Natal St

South Ln

St Hancock

King Geo

rs St

yi St 

Pritchard

r St Sope

Primro

Lilian Ngo

Lilian Ngo

Village Rd

C

Klein St Wandere

t

Bruyn St

t Villiers S

Kerk St

Harley St

A

Kapteijn St

Plein St Harrison

Queen

Ka Isaka

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St

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St

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son St

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Joubert Park

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S Olivia

H

Page St

YEOVILLE

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eba St

St

r St

all

St Mclngana

sh

ak Miriam M

ar

Hubert St

eer Rd

M ft St

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Sisulu

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St

oel St

bel St

Esselen Rd

St Hook

t

St Queen El

Leyds St

St 

Smit St 

Smit St 

Loveday

Simmonds

Rissik S

St

7

LIBRARY SQUARE ph St  Helen Jose GARDENS

al S t

Helen Joseph St 

Ntemi Pili

ulu Rd

SCI BONO

St

Hospital

Joubert St 

Simmonds

St

MARY FITZGERALD SQUARE NEWTOWN

Simon St



Albertina Sis

a Moosa

 Rahim

Pine Ave

ORIENTAL PLAZA

Gwi

koto St Gerard Se

Barney

hebe Rd

i St gwi Mrweb

koto St

i St 

Lilian Ngoy

St

ORIENTAL PLAZA

MARKET THEATRE

Quinn

Lilian Rd

Central Rd

FORDSBURG

Gerard Se

akeba St Miriam M

rwebi St

Gwigwi M

A

Biccard St

 Melle

St

t



Carr St

Dolly Rat

mercial Rd

Carr St 2

HILLBROW

De Korte

ans St

 Wolmar

MI

High Rd

4

St

NELSON MANDELA BRIDGE

CITY CENTRE MAP

6

St

De Beer

1

De Korte 6

Smit St 

Smit St 

5

St

Juta St 

t

Henri St

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3



Bertha S

Jorissen St

Station S

ORIGINS CENTRE

Rd Yale

10 Twelve Decades Art Hotel G5

WAM

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Stiemens

7 Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite D3 8 Reef Hotel D5 e ntonga Av Enoch So 9 The Troyeville Hotel H4

St

Ameshoff

5 Hallmark House Hotel F4

Kotze St

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BRAAMFONTEIN

4 Fair City Mapungubwe Hotel C5 6 Once in Joburg C3

ntain Rd

Hoofd St

erwe St

M Van der Pretoria

t

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Alexa

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Curiocity Backpackers G5

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HILLBROW TOWER

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Goldreich

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3

Rd

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Hoofd St 

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City Lodge Hotel Newtown B4

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2

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Caroline

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Joubert St

CONSTITUTION HILL

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Sam Hancock St

Bruce St

Becker St

Saunders St 

t ato S

v Fife A

MI

G

s St

 Dori

 Webb St

Empire Rd

Empire Rd

WITS UNIVERSITY WEST CAMPUS

P

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1

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S

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Wanderers Golf Club

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BRYANSTON

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