Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 11, May-Aug 2017

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds May - August 2017

Hidden Joburg Hunt for treasures in the City of Gold

Pavement special

Street food on the menu

N°11 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 A roundup of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

20

Best hotels, guesthouses and hostels

Where to eat Top 10 ways to eat Suggestions for all tastes and budgets

22 22 24

Hidden Joburg

34

A treasure hunter’s delight

Nightlife Top 10 nightlife haunts Best cocktail bars, pubs and jazz clubs

39 39 40

Sightseeing

45 Top 10 essential sights 45 Museums 46 Constitution Hill 47 Tours 48 The great outdoors 49 Street art 50 Art neighbourhood: Rosebank 51 Soweto 52

Shopping

55 Top 10 ways to shop 55 Cool and quirky stores 56 Markets 58 Malls & boutique shopping 59 Luxury shopping 60

Joburg basics

61

Essential information for your stay

Maps Joburg neighbourhoods City Centre Sandton to Rosebank and surrounds

63 63 64 66

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2017 3

Foreword This year marks 25 years since In Your Pocket first launched in Vilnius, Lithuania. A city guide series dreamed up by adventurous travellers in search of a beer (Vilnius didn’t even have a phone directory then), today the brand covers more than 100 cities. With the Iron Curtain only just having fallen the founders believed Eastern Europe would be a new tourism frontier. They were spot on. Johannesburg has a similar story. Apartheid created its own curtain and it was only once it fell that the city could see itself as a tourist destination. Now it has the distinction of being the first city outside of Europe to publish an In Your Pocket City Guide. We pride ourselves on being an independent, up to date, and occasionally cheeky guide to one of Africa’s coolest cities. The Times (SA) named us “the intelligent guide to Joburg” and it’s a title we are also proud to maintain. This is not a city that reveals itself easily and our job is to unearth its treasures for visitors and locals so that wherever you go, and whatever you choose to do, in your hands is your passport to being a Joburg insider.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196 or Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, Johannesburg, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Researchers Idara Udom and Tonye Cocodia Photography Andile Bhala (@may_i_take_apicture), Anton Bosman (@antonbosman), Charles Johnstone (@charles_johnstone_photography), Daz Smith (@DazMSmith), Heather Mason (@2summers), Justin Lee (justinlee.co.za), Mark Straw (@joburgjaunts) and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER IMAGE

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 11 083 6232.

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The cover and back page images were shot by Alain Proust for Hidden Johannesburg Johannesburg. A collaboration with writer Paul Duncan the book is a sumptuous overview of some of Johannesburg’s most impressive heritage spaces. Our cover reveals the perfectly preserved interiors of the city’s first gentleman’s club in Marshalltown, The Rand Club.

The back page photo was shot at Northwards, Parktown (see p. 34).

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

and Surrounds May - August 2017

Hidden Joburg Hunt for treasure in the City of Gold

Pavement special

Street food on the menu

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

N°11 - R40

ISSN 2311-3944

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

9 772311 394000

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket is the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992. If you haven‘t already done so, download our handy In Your Pocket City Essentials app featuring our selection of venues and sights alongside essential travel information. These city guides have been carefully crafted by local editors and include an events calendar so you‘ll never run out of ways to enjoy an In Your Pocket city. The app – available on both iOS and Android – is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket) or on our blog. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Predator (1993) by Norman Clive Catherine from Strauss & Co. Auction of Important SA & International Art, June 2017

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed, but midweek you’ll already find Joburg’s trivia buffs and bookworms putting their minds to work at pub quizzes and book launches. Art exhibition openings are generally held on Thursday nights.

Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – visit neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Maboneng, Melville and Parkhurst for the widest choice of nightlife.

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Saturday night, best make a reservation. If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km trail runs and yoga sessions on weekend mornings in the city’s parks.

Before going to print, we strive to bring together a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers.

Space is limited so we can never put everything we would like to in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes may occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar. Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @ JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

JAZZ MUSIC The soundtrack of Joburg is jazz, and there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy the beat. Also see Nightlife.

12.05 FRIDAY & 13.05 SATURDAY CARLO MOMBELLI Master bassist and composer Carlo Mombelli is one of South Africa’s most impressive jazz innovators. He is joined on stage by drummer Tumi Mogorosi, pianist Kyle Shepherd and vocalist Mbuso Khoza.QC-3, The Orbit, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit. co.za. Starts 20:30. Tickets R150.

24.05 WEDNESDAY & 25.05 THURSDAY AFRICA DAY AT THE ORBIT A jazz celebration of Africa Day with a stellar lineup of some of the biggest names including Andile Yenana (piano), Feya Faku (trumpet), Louis Moholo-Moholo (drums) and Steve Dyer.

QC-3, The Orbit, theorbit.co.za. Starts 20:30. Tickets R180.

16.06 FRIDAY KYLE SHEPHERD – SOUTH AFRICAN HISTORY X Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year (2014), jazz pianist and composer Kyle Shepherd is one of South Africa’s most exciting jazz talents. This special Youth Day concert marks the 1976 Soweto riots anniversary and reflects on SA’s youth.QC3, The Orbit, theorbit.co.za. Starts at 20:30. Tickets R150.

SUNDAYS CORONA JAZZ SESSIONS A relaxed afternoon of local jazz. Hosted by award-winning guitarist Vuma Ian Levin these sessions feature well-known and up-and-coming jazz performers.QStanley Beer Yard, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. From 14:00. Entrance is free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

What’s On

Priscilla Queen of the Desert, Teatro at Montecasino

MUSIC FESTIVALS 27.05 SATURDAY BASSLINE AFRICA DAY CONCERT This annual pan-African festival features music stars from across the continent. South Africa’s Thandiswa Mazwai is the headline act.QNasrec Expo Centre, Nasrec, ticketpro.co.za. Tickets R295.

3.06 SATURDAY PARKLIFE FESTIVAL An open-air festival of local musical talent performing on three stages, plus a ‘gourmet food village’.QMarks Park Sports Club, Judith Rd, Emmarentia, parklifefestival.co.za. From 10:00–20:00. Tickets R295–R345.

1.06 THURSDAY – 24.06 SATURDAY BASHA UHURU FREEDOM FESTIVAL A month-long festival in collaboration with edgy Braamfontein art gallery Kalashnikovv celebrating South African youth culture and creativity through a packed programme of art, music, fashion and film events. The festival ends with a free music festival on Saturday 24.06.QD-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, constitutionhill.org.za. Entrance is free.

17.06 SATURDAY FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE An annual festival promoting local and international music with an African-Francophone flavour on multiple stages. There’s also a beer garden, food trucks, craft stalls and kids activities.QB-4, Newtown Junction, Newtown, fetedelamusiquejhb.co.za. From 11:00– 18:00. Entrance is free.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THEATRE UNTIL 14.05 SUNDAY SOPHIATOWN This much-loved classic South African musical tells the story of two black journalists living in legendary Sophiatown in the early 1950s who, despite the newly implemented apartheid laws restricting interracial living arrangements, invite in a white Jewish woman to be their housemate.

QThe Market Theatre. Tickets R130–R215.

UNTIL 18.06 SUNDAY PRISCILLA QUEEN OF THE DESERT Based on the eponymous 1994 cult film this uplifting musical, with fabulously camp sets and costumes and a disco soundtrack, follows three drag queens across the Australian outback on a battered bus called Priscilla. Not suitable for children under 12.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R200–R500.

2.05 TUESDAY – 21.05 SUNDAY HAMLET A cast of six plays six Jacobean sailors who, in turn, play all the parts in Shakespeare’s iconic tragedy in this skillful re-imagining of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Inspired by the East India Company’s records of a Hamlet production staged in 1608 aboard a merchant ship off South Africa’s east coast.QPieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino. Tickets R100–R180.

05.05 FRIDAY – 28.05 SUNDAY THE SUIT A gripping tale based on the 1963 novella by Can Themba, one of South Africa’s most celebrated writers. A married couple’s relationship falls apart as the cuckolded husband sets about humiliating his unfaithful wife in a vengeful campaign that ultimately leads to tragedy. Not suitable for children under 13.QThe Market Theatre. Tickets R130–R215. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

10.05 WEDNESDAY – 21.05 SUNDAY THE HOUSE OF TRUTH A biographical story of the life of South African writer and journalist Can Themba (1924-1968) who first came to prominence during Sophiatown’s golden age. Scripted with the wit and irony for which Themba was famous, the play reveals details of his personal life that inspired his most celebrated literary works.QSoweto Theatre. Tickets R120.

31.05 WEDNESDAY – 25.06 SUNDAY TARTUFFE Seventeenth-century French playwright Moliére’s classic play comes to the stage under the direction of awardwinning South African actress and director Sylvaine Strike.

This is a dark satirical comedy that explores the fragilities of the human character when faced with flattery and power.

QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R75–R100.

7.06 WEDNESDAY – 18.06 SUNDAY KAKADU – THE MUSICAL Set in Kakadu, a popular nightclub in 1960s Lagos, this award-winning Nigerian musical boasts an upbeat soundtrack that blends traditional sounds with 1960s Afrobeat and Anglo-American soul, evoking the unbridled optimism of the newly independent Nigeria. The story revolves around the hopes and sorrows of four friends in the years following Nigeria’s independence from colonial rule as the country hurtles towards civil war.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R180–R350. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

15.06 THURSDAY – 16.07 SUNDAY THE INCONVENIENCE OF WINGS This critically acclaimed new play by celebrated writer and director Lara Foot shines a light on what it is to live with bipolar disorder, sensitively tackling weighty issues such as addiction, self-harm, compulsion and denial as told through the fraught relationship of a married couple.QThe Market Theatre. Tickets R105–R215.

21.06 WEDNESDAY – 2.07 SUNDAY A PASSAGE TO BOLLYWOOD Bollywood energy, glitz and glamour comes to the stage in this musical about a village boy’s trials and triumphs in the big city. Spectacular costumes, vibrant dance routines and plenty of action, romance and drama will delight fans of this colourful genre.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R120–R380 28.07 FRIDAY – 06.08 SUNDAY BIG CITY, BIG DREAMS Big City, Big Dreams is inspired by the dynamism of Joburg.

An exciting collaboration between three celebrated Joburgbased dance companies: Joburg Ballet and contemporary dance companies Vuyani Dance Theatre and Moving Into Dance Mophatong.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R80–R450.

Find all venue information on page 14.

For the latest What’s On updates see iyp.me/johannesburg/events May – August 2017 9

What’s On FINE ART AUCTIONS Strauss & Co., South Africa’s leading auction house hosts three auctions this winter with some of the finest South African artworks and decorative items on the market going under the hammer. Among the many covetable and collectable items this season are vintage clothing and fabrics. Even if you are not looking to buy, the viewings are a fantastic opportunity to see a broad range of artworks and objects before they disappear into private collections. Register to take part in the online auctions at straussart.co.za/straussonline.

IMPORTANT SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART The collection is on display daily from 02.06-04.06 (between 10:00-17:00) ahead of two live auctions on Monday 05.06 (starting at 16:00 and 20:00).QL-11, Wanderers Club, 21 North St, Illovo.

A FABRIC COLLECTION (ONLINE AUCTION) The online auction opens on 9.06 at 08:00 and closes on 19.06 at 20:00.

SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART AND DECORATIVE ARTS (ONLINE) The online auction opens on 7.07 at 08:00 and closes on 17.07 at 20:00. Highlights from the online auction will be showcased at the annual Turbine Art Fair in Newtown (see p.12).

Artwork by Jacob Hendrik Pierneef (1928)

CONCERTS 15.05

Rent In Concert, Teatro Montecasino.

Tickets R150–R450.

03.05– 21.05

The Tenors, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R180– R350.

13.05

Petronel Malan, classical piano, Linder Auditorium. Tickets R180–R220.

27.05– 28.05

Last night of the proms, Linder Audtitorium. Tickets R190–R295.

12.08

Mozart requiem, Wits Great Hall. Tickets R200–R350.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS AND FAIRS 13.05 SATURDAY KINGSMEAD BOOK FAIR This annual literary festival boasts an entertaining talks programme hosted by local and international authors and journalists. The wide range of topics includes colonialism, crime, graphic novels, traditional African food and Joburg life.QL-12, Kingsmead College, 132 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, kingsmead.co.za. From 09:30–17:00. Tickets TBA. 22.06 THURSDAY – 2.07 SUNDAY JOBURG SHOPPING FESTIVAL For those who take shopping seriously, this massive annual shopping extravaganza offers plenty of discounts, competitions and special offers at eight of Gauteng’s biggest shopping malls: Bedford Centre, East Rand Mall, Maponya Mall, Menlyn Park Shopping Centre, Oriental Plaza, Rosebank Mall, Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square.QSee joburgshoppingfestival.co.za

FOOD AND WINE EVENTS 16.05 TUESDAY – 17.05 WEDNESDAY JULIET CULLINAN STANDARD BANK WINE FEST Sample and buy exclusive wines made by South African wineries.QL-10, Summer Place, 69 Melville Rd, Illovo, julietcullinan.co.za. From 17:00–21:00. Tickets R220.

18.05 THURSDAY CHARDONNAY AND PINOT NOIR FESTIVAL Celebrating 80 of South Africa’s best wine labels plus wines from as far afield as France, Argentina and New Zealand.

QKillarney Country Club, 60 5th St, Lower Houghton, winemenu.co.za. From 18:00. Tickets R250.

02.06 FRIDAY CAB FRANC CARNIVAL Sample the finest Cabernet Franc (described by the experts as ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’s more elegant and refined cousin’) and Bordeaux blends produced by more than a dozen South African vineyards.QL-11, Wanderers Club, North St, Illovo, facebook.com/cabfranccarnival. Tickets R200.

3.06 SATURDAY ACE/ANIMO WINE FESTIVAL Leading boutique wine bar Ace+Pearl and sister restaurant Warm & Glad join wine merchants Ex Animo, Wine Cellar and Great Domaines to present this food and wine festival.QK‑11, Ace+Pearl, Albans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, acepearl.com. From 15:00–19:00. Tickets R300.

28.07 FRIDAY – 30.07 SUNDAY GOOD FOOD AND WINE SHOW Live cooking demos led by top international chefs and loads of food, wine and beer tastings are all on the menu at this popular annual event.QTicketPro Dome, cnr Olievenhout Ave and Northumberland Rd, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, goodfoodandwineshow.co.za. Tickets TBA. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On TURBINE ART FAIR 2017 13.07 THURSDAY – 16.07 SUNDAY The Forum Company’s historic Turbine Hall venue in Newtown opens up for the weekend to present one of the best annual art events in this city.

Headed by the innovative Glynis Hyslop, an art aficionado who lives to create memorable events, Turbine Art Fair (TAF), now in its fifth year, has become known for its exciting and wide-ranging selection of contemporary African art at affordable prices. The fair’s ceiling price is R50 000 (incl. VAT). The fair showcases emerging and established artists attracting the cool crowds in their thousands, there as much for the art as for The Forum Company’s imaginative gourmet fare and a fun social occasion in an inspiring urban setting.

This year’s fair includes participation by 45 galleries, a graduate painting exhibition, a fascinating programme of art talks, an exhibition of artworks by South African master Jacob Hendrik Pierneef from the private collection of Anton Taljaard (co-sponsored by Strauss & Co. and Artinsure), live music, a dedicated kids’ zone and, as always, plenty of collectable art.QC-5, 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, turbineartfair.co.za. Tickets R100 at the door, R90 via webtickets.co.za, weekend pass (FriSun) R200, kids, students and pensioners R50. Thu night cocktail event, incl. canapés and wine, R750.

What’s On EXHIBITIONS

UNTIL 27.05 SATURDAY CURTIS TALWST SANTIAGO Currently artist-in-residence at Gallery MOMO, in his latest work the Trinidadian-Canadian mixed media artist reflects on the visibility of black South Africans in places of leisure, illustrated in intricate jewellery box miniatures that depict real and imagined scenes and subvert common racial stereotypes.QGallery MOMO UNTIL 06.06 SATURDAY BIKOHAUSEN A multi-channel sound and video installation created by South African composer Philip Miller ( a frequent collaborator with William Kentridge). BikoHausen is inspired by the 1971 meeting between Black Consciousness leader Steve Bantu Biko and German avant-garde composer Karlheinz Stockhausen that took place during Stockhausen’s 1971 visit to Joburg.QGoethe-Institut UNTIL 16.07 SUNDAY MOSES TLADI Moses Tladi (1903-1959) was a self-taught artist who is noted as being the first black painter to have had a formal exhibition in South Africa. One of South Africa’s most important landscape painters, Tladi’s name fell into obscurity during the apartheid era and his beautiful and poetic work has only recently gained renewed appreciation.QWits Art Museum

Turbine Art Fair, Turbine Hall

SCULPTURE FAIR 13.05 SATURDAY – 14.05 SUNDAY THE WINTER SCULPTURE FAIR 2017 This annual Winter Sculpture Fair features the work of leading artists from Africa, Europe and the USA, exhibited in the picturesque surrounds of the Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind. This event sells out early so don’t delay booking your tickets. Every year the fair partners with the town of Franschhoek in the heart of South Africa’s Cape Winelands region, to offer visitors a choice of some of the country’s finest foods and wines.QNirox Sculpture Park, 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, wintersculpturefair.co.za.

Tickets R165, kids under 12 free.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Dilo(2017), Tabita Rezaire from Exotic Trade, Goodman Gallery

UNTIL 17.05 WEDNESDAY TABITA REZAIRE: EXOTIC TRADE French-born Guyanese-Danish digital artist Tabita Rezaire tackles the politics of colonialism and its effects on identity, spirituality and sexuality in the internet age. Working with video, photography and installation Rezaire’s bold, technicoloured works are a reminder of the pervasive power of the digital age to radically influence the ways in which we see ourselves.QGoodman Gallery

18.05 THURSDAY – 27.08 SUNDAY HIDDEN SHADOWS AND SILENT VOICES A photo essay by South African landscape photographer Clint Strydom. In this series Strydom explores the haunting empty spaces of Constitution Hill’s notorious Number Four Prison, which is now a museum and for this exhibition, serves as the venue.QD-1/2, Constitution Hill, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

18.05 THURSDAY – 30.06 FRIDAY SERGE ALAIN NITEGEKA | JO RACTLIFFE A powerful series of installations by Serge Alain Nitegeka, whose work often references his own personal experiences of trauma as a child refugee fleeing conflict in Burundi and later Rwanda. On the fifth floor (above the gallery) is a new exhibition by South African photographer Jo Ractliffe, best known for her stark images of the former battlegrounds of rural Angola and Namibia.QC-3 Stevenson Gallery, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, +27 11 403 1055, stevenson.info.

Open 09:00–17:00, sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

04.05 THURSDAY – 29.05 MONDAY WAYNE BARKER Well known contemporary artist Wayne Barker is often considered the wild child of the local art scene. Known for his anarchic approach to the politics of everyday South African life and popular culture, Barker uses bold colour, collage, neon and found objects to reconfigure iconic images in his paintings.QEverard Read Gallery

25.05 SUNDAY – 01.07 SATURDAY MOUNIR FATMI: FRAGMENTED MEMORY Subversive and thought-provoking, Moroccan multimedia artist Mounir Fatmi confronts the power structures of politics, language and religion. In this exhibition he examines the prized cultural objects of his childhood – a copy of the Koran, a photo of the Moroccan King and a calligraphic painting – all of which he was once forbidden from touching.QGoodman Gallery

2.05 TUESDAY – 25.06 SUNDAY MICHAEL MACGARRY: SHOW NO PAIN This is a retrospective of the work of multi-award-winning Joburg filmmaker Michael MacGarry whose films typically highlight the shifting urban realities of African cities. There are ten videos on display, ranging from animation and narrative cinema to installation and experimental film. These are complemented by a collection of MacGarry’s sculptural works.QWits Art Museum

01.06 THURSDAY – 8.07 SATURDAY TODD GRAY Once employed as Michael Jackson’s personal photographer, Todd Gray’s photographic installations are based around images taken from his extensive archive (including many of the King of Pop himself ) that are then spliced together, obscured, recontextualised and placed into overlapping frames, resulting in completely new multi-layered works.QGallery MOMO

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

29.06 THURSDAY – 24.07 MONDAY COLBERT MASHILE Juxtaposing mystical and mythological elements of traditional African culture with the contemporary trappings of everyday life, Mashile delivers subtle and incisive political commentary on post-Apartheid South Africa. Intriguing and surreal, Mashile’s paintings are rich in symbolism.

QEverard Read Gallery 13.07 THURSDAY – 26.08 SATURDAY AYANA V. JACKSON Dividing her time between the US, France and South Africa, African-American artist Ayana V Jackson’s beautifully arranged candid portraits are richly layered with historical allusions. Concerned with the experiences of contemporary African diasporic societies, Jackson’s images address the varying constructions of black identities.QGallery MOMO 15.07 SATURDAY – 19.08 SATURDAY HASAN AND HUSAIN ESSOP Twin brothers Hasan and Husain Essop’s clever and engrossing photos question Muslim stereotypes and critically engage with the climate of fear and uncertainty that currently dominates global political discourse. In this new exhibition the twins turn their focus to the Middle Eastern refugee crisis, told from the perspective of young Muslims in South Africa.QGoodman Gallery 25.07 TUESDAY – 8.10 SUNDAY ANDY WARHOL PORTFOLIOS: A LIFE IN POP Consisting of more than 80 screen prints from the impressive Merrill Lynch art collection, this is the first time that such a large collection of Warhol’s works have been on display in South Africa. This is a not-to-be-missed opportunity to view some of the American Pop artist’s most iconic images such as his celebrity portraits of Muhammad Ali and Marilyn Monroe. Also on show is his 1981 series of animal prints Endangered Species, and Myths, Warhol’s distinctive take on popular characters of 20th Century American pop culture such as Mickey Mouse, Uncle Sam and Superman.

QWits Art Museum May – August 2017 13

What’s On VENUE ADDRESS BOOK GALLERIES CIRCA GALLERY AND EVERARD READ K-12, 20 and 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, circagallery.co.za, everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY MOMO J/K-12, 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GOETHE-INSTITUT 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, goethe.de/johannesburg. Open 08:30–18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY K-12, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com.

Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. MOAD G-4, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, moadjhb.com. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun10:00– 18:00. Closed Mon. WITS ART MUSEUM B-2, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THEATRES AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE L-9, Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare.co.za.

JOBURG THEATRE C-2 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel.

0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com.

LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, jfo.co.za.

THE MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel.+27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za.

MONTECASINO THEATRES Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, montecasino.co.za.

What’s On CINEMA THE BIOSCOPE CINEMA For indie, arthouse and foreign-language films, this small independent cinema in Maboneng leads the pack and is also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films. Regular events include Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday of every month and Noche Española Spanish film night on the third Thursday. Also look out for the ‘Behind’ series of classic Hollywood films that have inspired recent box office hits, and ‘Noodle Box’ Kung Fu film nights (you get to slurp noodles while you watch). Adjoining the cinema is Chalkboard Café known for its pizza and craft beer that you can enjoy during the screenings.

See the latest schedules and book online.QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za.

5.05 FRIDAY – 14.05 SUNDAY EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL 2017 This annual festival, now in its fourth year, has an excellent lineup of foreign films (with English subtitles) selected from the previous year’s most critically acclaimed releases in 13 European countries. This year’s highlights include the surreal Belgian mockumentary King of the Belgians, along with the outstandingly outlandish Oscar-nominated comedy Toni Erdmann (Germany) and 2016 Cannes Jury Prize winner American Honey (UK).QCinema Nouveau Rosebank, Rosebank Mall, cnr Bath Ave and Baker St, Rosebank, tel.

086 166 8437, eurofilmfest.co.za.

1.06 THURSDAY – 11.06 SUNDAY ENCOUNTERS DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL The popular annual Encounters festival is known for its broad selection of some of the best short and featurelength contemporary documentary films from around the world. Recent award-winning documentaries and films that profile African stories feature prominently on the programme.QCinema Nouveau Rosebank and The Bioscope, encounters.co.za.

FUN FOR KIDS

FIRST THURSDAYS

UNTIL SUNDAY 28.05 TRANSFORMERS ANIMATRONICS Tour the fictional land of Cybertron, home of the ‘robots in disguise’. Watch as Giant Autobots and Decepticons come to life against a blockbuster backdrop. Characters from the Transformers book series are on display, ensuring delight for young minds of all ages.QEmperors Palace, 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, transformersafrica.com. Open 10:00–19:00. Tickets R95–R155.

On the first Thursday evening monthly the streets of Braamfontein, Maboneng and Rosebank beckon with art exhibition openings, live music, DJ sets and pop-up bars.

Choose one area for the evening. Collect a First Thursdays guide to the night’s events at participating galleries.

Venue entrance is usually free.QSee our First Thursdays online feature at iyp.me/74150f. Events from 18:00.

30.06 FRIDAY – 09.07 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE Classic and contemporary Disney characters take to the ice in The Wonderful World of Disney On Ice show. Join Disney favourites from Finding Nemo, Toy Story, The Lion King, Snow White and the Seven Dwarves, Aladdin, The Little Mermaid and of course everyone’s Frozen favourites Anna, Elsa and the hilarious snowman Olaf.QTicketPro Dome, cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, disneyonice.co.za. Tickets R100–R475. No performances Mon. CHILDREN’S THEATRE For regular productions see National Children’s Theatre, 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za and People’s Theatre, Cnr Loveday and Hoofd Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1563, peoplestheatre.co.za

Still from King of the Belgians © Nedelcho Hazarbasanov, European Film Festival 2017 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

BRAAMFONTEIN With its many bars and large student population First Thursdays here has a party atmosphere. Look out for late night DJ parties at bars Kitcheners and Republic of 94 and art events at Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum.

MABONENG This fashionable downtown district is known for its hip cafés, galleries and bars. Enjoy lively art launches at AGOG and Hazard Gallery. For cocktails and DJ sets pop into Lenin’s Vodka Bar or The Cosmopolitan.

ROSEBANK Home to Joburg’s Art Gallery Row, arranged along Jan Smuts Ave (between Wells and Jellicoe Aves). Art hub Keyes Art Mile hosts a street party with food trucks, music and openings at its four galleries. At Bolton Road Corner Goodman Gallery, David Krut Projects and Res Gallery also stay open late so you can mingle with locals and the art world’s who’s who over a glass of wine.

May – August 2017 15

Arriving & Getting Around

A view towards Nelson Mandela Bridge, Braamfontein

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton.

Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is used by some budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose restrictions on carrying liquids in your hand luggage.

O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern, and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and all South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights in Terminal A. For security purposes have your luggage safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be very long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one and a half hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.

A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R151. After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, jiata.co.za) charge per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

LOCAL AIRLINES SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS (SAA) The national airline flies to more than 100 destinations around the world.QTel. 0861 606 606 or +27 11 978 1111, flysaa.com.

AIRLINK Specialising in flights from Joburg to regional hubs and private safari lodges in southern Africa.QTel. +27 11 451 7350, flyairlink.com.

BRITISH AIRWAYS Regional flights from Joburg to other South African destinations are operated by local partner Comair.QTel. +27 11 921 0222 or +27 10 344 0130, britishairways.com.

FASTJET Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to destinations in Tanzania and Zimbabwe.QTel. +27 10 500 2560, fastjet.com.

KULULA AIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities, plus Windhoek, Harare, Mauritius, Livingstone and Victoria Falls.QTel. 0861 585 852 or +27 11 921 0500, kulula.com.

MANGO Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to Cape Town, Durban, George, Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar.

QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, flymango.com.

SAFAIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities.QTel. +27 87 135 1351, flysafair.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL

GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Gold Cards cost R15 (this is a non-refundable cost). Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends (except for the Montecasino-Sandton and Midrand-Mall of Africa routes).

You need a minimum of R20 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30.

The Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport route has a fixed price of R151. Prices for the north-south Joburg to Pretoria route start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make frequent unannounced stops. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not entirely uncommon on the freeways. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station (tel. +27 11 666 1700), avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Sandton Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), europcar.co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals (343 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 640 2666, rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:30. Closed Sun).

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information. Note that the buses are not known for being timeous. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late-afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commut-

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

To City Centre To a local stop MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

ers they are the most accessible transport service as they cover large swathes of the city and neighbouring townships. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal (see graphic above). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the exact fare to the driver (usually R10–R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance for your stop – giving a landmark is usually easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find it offers many insights into everyday South African life.

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of picture ID to register. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30. Check the schedule because on some routes buses run until 20:30 (see reavaya.org.za.)

These are some useful routes: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at Boomtown. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

TAXIS AND TUK-TUKS Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are few places where you can hail a taxi in the street and some of the unmetered private taxis that hang around the ranks next to the Gautrain stations have a particularly poor reputation for overcharging passengers. It is generally best to confirm a price upfront or order a taxi in advance. Once you have ordered confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point. At the airport and at the Gautrain stations drivers have been known to cancel a trip if your pick-up point is too close to rival private taxi operators.

The global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network. Download the Uber app and choose from an UberX, Uber Black (luxury vehicle) or Uber Van. If you are a first time user take advantage of our Uber discount code on p.18. The city’s largest taxi company is Zebra Cabs which can be ordered by phone or using their app. Zebra Cabs also offers a service for women who require female drivers and payment is accepted in cash, by debit card or via the app (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za). You’ll also find tuk-tuks, useful for short trips through the suburbs.

E-TUK-TUK Melville-based and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips R50. Book in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82515 6593, e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside Sandton City mall on West Street and operating within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, sheshatuks.co.za facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQTel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za.

See Sightseeing for Joburg and Soweto tour guides that specialise in walking and cycling tours.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and bike lanes in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto although these are not always respected by the rest of the road-using public so be extra cautious when cycling in urban areas. For the most up-todate information on cycle routes, go to juca.org.za.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but the City Centre, Braamfontein and Maboneng are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also best explored at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers who often do not recognise pedestrian crossings, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike.

NAVIGATING THE CITY In the City Centre beware of driving into the awkwardlyplaced bus lanes as this carries a fine and take note of the many one-way streets. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address.

In the suburbs always check whether numbered names such as First or Second are streets or avenues as these usually intersect. See pages 64–67 for our City Centre and Sandton maps.

May – August 2017 19

Where to stay

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built for mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency is one of the city’s top business hotels favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s oneNINEone restaurant (see Where to Eat) opens onto a courtyard perfect for sipping wine far from the madding crowd (L-11, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency. hyatt.com. 224 rooms).

If leisure is what you seek, the Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The dropdead-gorgeous views of this most-treed city make Flames restaurant a prime sundowners destination (reserve your table) or the place to enjoy a sumptuous brunch. For a blissful break head to the spa (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons.com/johannesburg. 117 rooms).

At the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn, it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom. The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados, or book a wine or tea pairing at Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon (see Where to Eat), restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef.

The newly renovated spa is an ultra-luxe location perfect for wintry afternoons (K-9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za. 53 rooms).

The olde-world opulent Palazzo Hotel Montecasino, a regular World Luxury Hotel award-winner, is an international celebrity hangout. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions, the hotel has a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a memorable trip (Montecasino Blv, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246 rooms).

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Where to stay

Check into one of 12 decades of Joburg’s history at Curiocity African Design Hostel, Maboneng

The intimate and chic 54 on Bath has a boutique-hotel feel and a champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location, and show the best of modern Joburg (K-12, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, tsogosunhotels. com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).

BOUTIQUE HOTELS Hallmark House in Maboneng is the much-anticipated design of leading Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye whose most recent work includes the landmark National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington DC. Industrial chic with plenty of contemporary artwork and finishes, the hotel rooms opened earlier this year, each with a balcony offering city views. The 46-room 4-star hotel is still a work in progress and will house a rooftop spa, gym and swimming pool.

You’ll find Loof Coffee in the lobby known for its excellent roasts and a free shuttle service will put you within easy reach of all Maboneng’s attractions (F-4, 54 Siemert Rd, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 402 0220, newmarkhotels.com).

QSL on 44 is one of Joburg’s newer boutique hotels, a luxury refuge created by the founders of Row-G, an exclusive men’s fashion label. Vintage furniture and industrial interiors combine to create an uber-stylish setting, metres from the delights of boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley in Milpark (12 Quince St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 830 0000, qslon44.com. 10 rooms).

The Residence caters to champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1908–09, and is a tasteful bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

MID-RANGE HOTELS

INNER-CITY STAYOVER

The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools (M-8, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, proteahotels.com/balalaika.

330 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (M-11, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, proteahotels. com/melrose. 197 rooms). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, thefairway. co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors, Thaba Eco Hotel, set in a nature reserve south of Joburg, offers hiking, mountain biking, game walks and nature drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za).

Book a city stay to get the most out of neighbourhoods like Braamfontein and Maboneng, and for fun nightlife attractions, weekend markets, cafés, mining history, art galleries and public art. Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at The Bannister Hotel. The bar at this stylish budget hotel is a popular hangout. (C3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za. 32 rooms).

If it’s happening in Maboneng, Curiocity African Design Hostel is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and city aficionado, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing). Curiocity hosts live-music events, rooftop picnics, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms, a loft apartment and Curiocity Pads – 12 boutique apartments, each designed by an artist to reflect a particular decade of Joburg’s first 120 years. A recently opened second branch in Durban is already a hit with youthful travellers (G-5, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).

A short drive from Maboneng is The Troyeville Hotel with eight newly renovated suites. The hotel is a regular host of the city’s literary set, and also popular for its excellent Portuguese-style food. Within walking distance of Emirates Airline Park (also known as Ellis Park) it’s a perfect post-match stop or stayover, for a pre-match drink or even watching the rugby game in the bar (H-4,1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za).

GUESTHOUSES AND B&BS The multi-award-winning guesthouse Liz at Lancaster is owned by Liz Delmont, an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy your stay. She has thought of everything that will make your time in this city as comfortable as possible. Follow Liz’s travels through the city on her website blog. (J-10, 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083 or +27 83 229 4223, lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

Liz at Lancaster is a member guesthouse of Johannesburg Guesthouses, a guesthouse network that offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation in and around Rosebank at more than 20 properties. Many of their establishments are owner-run. This is where to look if you fancy garden retreats in the prettiest suburbs, bed-and-breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service. See their booking website johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za.

Available options include child-friendly, wheelchair-friendly and even pet-friendly accommodation. Monthly rentals and meeting facilities are available at selected properties and each listed property offers something distinctive.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOWETO OVERNIGHT With so much to see and experience, it’s worth spending quality time in Soweto. Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch a tent in the garden. There is a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beach-style bar, and an open-air restaurant in the adjacent park. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours are a must-do activity in this vibrant neighbourhood (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds). See Sightseeing.

For more recommended accommodation establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

May – August 2017 21

Where to eat

Wombles, Bryanston

TOP 10 WAYS TO EAT Joburg offers everything from pavement dining to fivestar gourmet cuisine. These are ten essential culinary experiences around which to plan your trip.

 BREAKFAST AT A LOCAL CAFÉ Joburgers like to rise with the birds, and it’s not unheard of to schedule business meet­ings at 07:30, which explains why breakfast out is such an institution. Head to a neighbourhood café or opt for a lavish brunch at one of the city’s finest hotels.

 BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES If you have an appetite for the sweet stuff you won’t be disappointed by the choice of bakeries and patisseries.

From freshly baked breads and pastries to mouthwatering almond croissants you’ll find what you are hankering after.

See our full list online.

 FRESH ROASTS AND HOT CHOCOLATE This city really knows how to make a decent coffee. The local scene is dominated by independent roasters who use single-source or blended Fair Trade (mostly) African beans.

With time to spare head to one of Joburg’s bookshop cafés, and for a chocolate craving we know where you can get a fix.  EAT OUTDOORS With Joburg winters offering plenty of sunshine, sidewalk cafés are as popular now as in summer. For a real treat venture a little further out of the city to one of our favourite countryside escapes.

 LUNCH AT A MARKET Head to one of Joburg’s many lively markets for a streetfood-style lunch, local fashion, art and crafts and plenty of great people-watching opportunities.

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

 STREET FOOD Mexican tacos, Taiwanese steamed buns, Greek souvlaki, Turkish shawarmas and bunny chows (bread loaves filled with curry), the trend for fast-casual dining is well established in Joburg. A star item of this food trend is chicken and we’ve rounded the best places for satisfying your craving.

 STEAK AND SHISA NYAMA If you enjoy red meat you won’t be disappointed. Head to one of the city’s many steakhouses for an unforgettable rump, sirloin or fillet. Shisa nyama (an isiZulu term that means ‘burn meat’) describes the popular ‘buy and braai’style venues found across South Africa. See Sightseeing for our Soweto recommendations.

 ETHNIC NEIGHBOURHOODS Ever since Joburg’s founding in the gold rush year of 1886, immigrant communities from all across Africa, Europe and Asia have continued to shape this city. Sample specialities from China in Chinatown, visit Fordsburg for dishes from the Indian subcontinent, sample Ethiopian food in the city centre or food from west Africa in the neighbourhood of Yeoville.

 HIGH TEA AND OTHER COMFORT FOOD For the lightest and fluffiest scones spread with home­ made jam and clotted cream, crustless cucumber ribbon sandwiches and petite quiches – visit a tea room or one of Joburg’s luxury hotels for a leisurely ‘high tea’. For other ways to stave off the winter chill see our picks for hearty soul food.

 FOOD AND DRINK PAIRINGS South Africa produces some fabulous wines perfect for pairing with a meal prepared by one of Joburg’s top chefs. If you favour a different drink with your meal there are plenty of other pairing options, including craft beer and even tea. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Where to eat COFFEE ROASTERS BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first Fair Trade roaster sources its single origin unblended coffee from across Africa and also offers home barista courses. Enjoy a flavoursome cup in a minimalist setting at this chic coffee house.Q44 Stanley, cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. U­W CRAFT COFFEE Hulking roasters and bulging sacks of beans line the walls at this coffee bar and roastery tucked in to a quiet street covered in graffiti murals for which the area is well known. Newtown Junction shopping mall and the landmark Market Theatre are just one block away from here.

QB‑4, 50 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0501, craftcoffee.co.za. Open 07:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. W

Brunch at Flames, Four Seasons The Westcliff

BREAKFAST CAFÉS Whether your breakfast tastes run to sweet or savoury, spartan to splash-out, these are our picks.

GLENDA’S Glenda Lederle is renowned as a patissier and for her delicious seasonal café-style food. This stylish French-influenced café attracts a loyal following of high society bosses and belles. Try the smashed avo on toast or decadent Madagascan vanilla flapjacks and don’t leave without a takeaway slice of the salted caramel popcorn cake. Breakfast until 11:30.QK-11, 6 Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6369, glendas.co.

Open 07:00–21:00, Sun 08:00–15:00. RR–RRR. ­BLS PABLO EGGS GO BAR This art deco-inspired café loved by the Vespa-riding breakfast crowd is a shrine to the free-range egg, any way you like it: poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a shakshuka (Middle Eastern-style baked eggs placed atop moreish Yemeni flatbread), and served all day. The café is licensed, so start the day with a Bloody Mary.Q2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348. Open 06:30–16:00, Sun, Mon 06:30–15:00. RR. U­S6 SALVATION CAFÉ Turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’ dishes, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stan­ley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard, perfect for relaxed family meals. Breakfast until 11:30.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za.

Open 08:00–16:00 (the kitchen closes at 15:30). RR. TU­B­S6­ 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FLAMES AT FOUR SEASONS THE WESTCLIFF Reservations are required for this sumptuous brunch at Flames restaurant. The price is as steep as the hill atop which Flames sits, but utterly worth it for what is probably Joburg's most impressive spread with an unforgettable view of one of the world's most forested cities.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6190, flamesrestaurant.co.za. Open Sat, Sun 09:00– 15:00 (last seating 14:00). Cost R595 per person. B ­ L

PATISSERIES GALATA BAKERY NEW This charming Turkish family-run bakery and café offers authentic cuisine at student-friendly prices. Named after an ancient Istanbul neighourhood its decor embellishments recall its origins. The food comes in generous portions. Feast on the Turkish Breakfast which includes menemen (Turkish-style scrambled eggs) and gozleme (traditional flatbread) served with strong tea.QC-3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 1492. Open 07:00–20:00. R. T­BL­­WS PATACHOU NEW The counter windows at this authentic French patisserie, boulangerie and tea room make quick decision making tough. From rich and densely layered almond croissants to choux pastry filled with almond praline cream, delicate fruit tartlets and savoury pastries, Patachou excels. Take a seat on the outdoor deck and enjoy a cuppa with whatever you choose. There is also a Rivonia branch.QJ-12, 15 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 268 5702. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:30–16:30, Sun 08:30–15:00. R-RR. TBWL­S6­ johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

FATHER COFFEE A blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple to aesthetics and hipster font design this coffee shop only seats around six people, but there’s plenty of leaning space on the counter and a bench outside. Buy a bag of the best to take home.

Service is curt (if you do get a smile please let us know) but the coffee mostly makes up for it. Also at The Zone@ Rosebank.QC‑3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00. Closed Sun. 6­B­S­W FIREBIRD COFFEE NEW Enjoy a fresh roast while gazing over the immense graffiti mural of Dutch colonial explorer Jan van Riebeeck in the enchanting urban sculpture garden at newly restored Victorian landmark The Cosmopolitan in Maboneng. Firebird stocks and roasts organic coffees.QG-4, The Cosmopolitan, 24 Albrecht St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 817 9589, firebirdcoffee.co.za. Open 07:00–16:30, Sun 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. TBS

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2017 25

Where to eat

Where to eat CHOCOLATE CHOCOLOZA NEW Vicky Bain’s chocolate shop at 44 Stanley is a revelation.

Bain trained in Belgium and can be found in the store’s chocolate kitchen cooking up all sorts of delicious handcrafted beauties using only the finest ingredients. With seven varieties of hot chocolate to choose from (you get to mix your own into a mug of steamed milk) and a roomy and sunny spot in which to sample them this is an excellent winter afternoon hideout.Q44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 900 4892. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. TS­

EB Social Kitchen and Bar, Hyde Park

BOOKISH RETREATS Coffee and reading are the perfect couple. Browse the aisles, order a flat white and stick your head in a book.

See store websites for book launches and other events.

BRIDGE BOOKS This downtown bookstore is located in a heritage building that was formerly a bank. Downstairs in what was once the impressive banking hall, with soaring marble pillars, is its coffee bar and book kiosk (sharing space with City Central food hall). The bookstore occupies the mezzanine level and specialises in secondhand and new books with a focus on African writers.

QD‑5, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 708 4461, bridgebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat and public holidays 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. TB­­ EXCLUSIVE BOOKS HYDE PARK Stop by the chic bar at this large bookshop for expert cocktails inspired by famous reads or join the bookworms at the reading tables in the store’s coffee bar, conveniently located near the new releases.

The beautiful EB Social Kitchen and Bar is the store’s restaurant serving sophisticated contemporary fare.

QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Craighall, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Bookstore open Sun, Mon 09:00–21:00, Tue–Thu 09:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–22:30. Restaurant and bar open 12:00–22:30, Sun 12:00–16:00. U­L­W LOVE BOOKS Kate Rogan’s independent bookstore exhibits her considered reading choices, award-winning books, titles people are or should be talking about and plenty of great South African reads. Adjoining café Service Station is a popular neighbourhood hangout serving good breakfast dishes and a bountiful lunchtime harvest table.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. L­B­W 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SIDEWALK CAFÉS For good food and an opportunity to soak in a neighbourhood atmosphere these are the best streetside cafés.

BOLTON ROAD COLLECTION The newish kid on this block has transformed a formerly unremarkable Rosebank corner into a neighbourhood hangout. Incorporating a restaurant, bar and bakery BRC is a welcome boost to Joburg’s art gallery district. The interiors mix industrial chic with natural elements to create a casual but glam atmosphere. The outside tables are packed for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Cocktails are good and the menu includes tapas-sized plates and a wide selection of mains, cooked up from locally sourced and organic ingredients.

Parking on Newport Road.QK-12, Cnr Bolton Rd and Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 6104. Open 11:00– 23:45, Sat, Sun 08:00–23:45. RR-RRR. B­LS­W EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor at this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery is Instagram-worthy and constantly evolving. It includes the ‘tochas’ cushion (Yiddish for bot­tom) and other quirky innovations by popular T-shirt and homeware brand Love Jozi and top local fashion label Black Coffee. Your table comes with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with top­pings, the shakshuka or excellent shawarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice or cocktail to go with it. All day breakfast menu.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za.

Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. ­B ­S­W 6 ESPRESSO CAFÉ AND BISTRO A Parkhurst staple with a large and widely varied menu to please most tastes, great service and a lively social atmosphere. The owner here is something of a local celebrity having starred in South Africa’s version of the TV series Survivor. Most of the tables spill onto the sidewalk where you can people-watch and get an eyeful of flashy horsepower.

Prego rolls, calamari, salads, pastas and pizzas are on offer and the spicy peri-peri sauce is a signature item.QJ-12, 23A 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 8700. Open 09:00– 22:00, Sun 09:00–20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. BN johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JACKSONS EATERY & REAL FOOD MARKET NEW Look out onto suburban Bryanston’s streets from the large outdoor deck, perfect for soaking up winter sunshine.

Founder Gary Jackson seeks out the best local artisanal food producers, butchers and bakers to offer ‘Real Food’: fresh, tasty, nutritious and environmentally-conscious. The coffee is excellent with a mouth-watering almond croissant. Order the Green Acai Breakfast bowl with Greek yogurt, seasonal fruit and low carb and low sugar granola; for lunch meat-eaters will enjoy The Grazer, a 100% pure grassfed beef burger. Food to make carnivores, vegetarians and vegans happy.Q300 Bryanston Dr, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 1598, jacksonsrealfood.co.za. Open 07:30–21:00.

Sun 07:30–18:30. R-RR. TBS­W6 MILK BAR ROSEBANK Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in downtown Addis Ababa this quirky and stylish African-retro styled café faces the quiet tree-lined Keyes Avenue. Pick up a coffee or linger for basic café fare of sandwiches, flatbreads, pot pies and salads given a local twist. For lunch try the bockwurst hot dog in a pretzel roll. On Thursday afternoons hang out for live music paired with a selection of African beers and cocktails. An ideal pause spot when visiting Keyes Art Mile’s art galleries and designer stores.QK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5128, keyesartmile.co.za. Open 06:30– 18:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–23:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 08:00–16:00. R. BWE S­

WEEKEND SPECIAL This countryside escape is perfect for a sunny wintry day.

See more at iyp.me/74716f.

THE KITCHEN L’ANTICO GIARDINO NEW Housed in a beautifully restored farmhouse this weekend eatery (about 45 mins from Joburg) is operated by The Forum Company, known for their extraordinary venues and events. The kitchen serves up hearty breakfasts and laid-back lunches made with fresh locally sourced produce. Enjoy your meal under the trees overlooking the kitchen gardens and a small lake. All-day breakfast options include sourdough crumpets with ricotta and honey or fresh herb omelettes.

For lunch, make it a family affair with dishes like fresh salmon trout or free-range beef rib eye served with sides in generous portions. Desserts are suitably decadent. Spend the rest of the day exploring the fascinating surroundings in the Cradle of Humankind, a protected World Heritage Site.QFarm 534, Nooitgedacht, Pine Valley Rd, Lanseria, tel. +27 63 691 8912, theforum.co.za. Open Sat, Sun 08:00–16:00 and first Fri monthly 15:00–18:00. TB

a range of cuisines. Try Zambian-Congolese Kitoko Kitchen’s West African grilled tilapia fish with cassava or jollof rice or sample dishes from Kwan Phayao’s Thai kitchen and the XO Patisserie.

On Thursdays and Saturdays visit Bryanston Organic Market, a great place to shop for homemade farmhouse foods and organic fruit and vegetables. Stop for lunch of sweet or savoury crepes at La Cuisine du Jardin, vegan soul food at Organic Leaves, gluten-free South Indian dosas from Meera’s and for organic Fair Trade coffee at Bettina’s Café.

On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays the foodhall-style 1 Fox Market (14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, 1fox.co.za) opens downtown. Taste the Neapolitan-style pizzas at Pionieri’s Pizzeria and decadent pastries and desserts from Ted Zaki, who also serves a weekend high tea.

At Rosebank Sunday Market, a great shopping destination for locally made crafts, vintage items and accessories, there’s plenty of food stalls to choose from, including Andy Choo’s Chili Padi serving irresistible and spicy Malaysian rendang curries, Portuguese-influenced Santana Gourmet for Mozambican prawns and spicy prego rolls, and King Arabic Sandwich, run by a charming Palestinian family who make excellent hummus and falafel. Also on Sundays the trendsters flock to Maboneng’s Market On Main, where fashion, craft and second-hand book stalls spill onto the street, while inside there’s a huge range of food stalls. Favourites include Soul Souvlaki and Mama Mexicana (both now have restaurants in Maboneng), and for drinks try the gin and tonics from Maboneng-based craft distillery Time Anchor.

On Saturdays hipsters, students and urban trendsetters throng Neighbourgoods in Braamfontein jostling for space in the queues for frozen mojitos. For lunch Sumting Fresh, with their chatty servers and crispy crumbed chicken goujons and Yum Cha Dim Sum are our favourites. For contact details and opening times see Markets in Shopping.

Market on Main, Maboneng

MARKET FOOD For great people-watching opportunities, a choice of global cuisines and a lively, local atmosphere, head to one of Joburg’s many food and craft markets. On Wednesdays drop into the 27 Boxes Night Market in Melville where there’s a regularly changing selection of stalls serving up facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2017 27

Where to eat

Where to eat MOMO BAOHAUS Specialising in Taiwanese street food with a twist this Greenside restaurant has a wide-ranging menu with plenty of small dishes to be shared. Start with traditional potstickers, Norwe­gian salmon tacos, and crispy Korean fried chicken wings; the twice-cooked beef ribs are excellent while the bao (steamed buns) are worthy of applause. There’s also a good sushi menu. The dessert offer is slim and odd, but post-feast you won’t mind.Q139 Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 10 900 4889, momobaohaus.com.

Open 11:00–22:00, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 11:00–16:00.

Closed Mon. R-RR. No liquor licence so bring your own.

Soul Souvlaki, Maboneng

STREET FOOD Always on trend Joburgers have embraced the idea of street food, giving it a local twist by not serving it in the street. From dim sum to tacos, bunny chows to souvlaki, these casual and fast food favourites are on the city’s menus.

CITY CENTRAL FOOD HALL Opposite the historic Rand Club in downtown Joburg and just a few doors down from the heritage landmark Cornerhouse, City Central was formerly the location of Barclays Bank’s South African headquarters. Built in the early 1940s by leading architect Gordon Leith in the early-modernist style the building mixes an understated neoclassical facade with a towering triple-volume marble banking hall, above which hangs a giant brass chandelier. Find Bridge Books and the Brass Bar upstairs while the original banking hall is occupied by the food hall with a good selection of weekday stalls serving up freshly baked croissants, doughnuts and cupcakes, gourmet burgers, Indian curries, dim sum and other tasty lunch fare to enjoy on the go or at one of the long tables.QD-5, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre.

Open 08:00–18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. R. S COALITION NEW Expect to be touching elbows and ears with neighbouring diners at this tiny pizza bar. The dining room only seats about 25 people, who usually crowd around tables or at the counter overlooking the street. Coalition’s accomplished wood-fired pizzas, topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella, are made according to authentic Neapolitan methods and there are nine variations on the menu. In the back of the restaurant is a ‘secret’ cocktail bar Sin & Taxes.QK-12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 900 4987, coalitionpizza.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–20:00.

Reservations recommended. RR-RRR. L­SW 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CURRY AND ALL Known far and wide for its bunny chow (a hollowed-out bread loaf portion filled with curry, that is said to have originated among the Indian community in Durban in the 1940s) this takeaway spot specialises in traditional Durban Indian curries sold in traditional roti rolls, bunny chows and biryanis. The food is flavoursome, prices are low and portions are huge. Limited seating is available on makeshift benches and tables outside or inside in the café area. Food is freshly prepared once daily and the queue tends to build up so make sure to arrive before midday.QM-7, behind Shell Garage, cnr Rivonia and South Rds, Sandton, tel. +27 84 603 2466. Open 10:30–20:00. Closed Sun. R. L­S­B THE GRINGO CAFÉ NEW This energetic Maboneng eatery with its sombreros and happening cocktail bar is a bright spot on the city map. The dedicated mixologist serves tasty mixes that include a basil and fennel infused gin. Cheerful and quirky with photocopied menus and plenty of Day of the Dead references The Gringo Café is the love child restaurant of a South African couple who decided to take their home chef skills public.

The menu is a tasty fusion of Mexican and African flavours.

Try the Carne Asada fries, cheesy fries loaded with pulled beef, quacamole and salsa and the pulled beef or chicken tacos. The El boerie roll, is a local classic of minced sausage topped with a taste of Mexico.QG-5, 262 Main St, Maboneng, tel. +27 79 713 9214. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. Corkage R40. LB­ES­­6 johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

PAUL’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM HYDE PARK NEW Paul Ballen began his ice cream chain by hosting Sunday tastings at his parents’ home in 2014 after receiving an ice cream machine for his 21st birthday. Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream is made with integrity, (no chemicals or synthetic additives) in an enticing range of flavours. New flavours are constantly added. Taste the roasted pistachio and honey ice cream with gold edible glitter or order the store speciality, a filled handmade sugar cone, coated with chocolate and piled with ice cream topped with caramel or chocolate fudge sauce.QK-10, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 79 581 0602, paulshomemade.com. Open 08:00–21:30. Wed, Fri, Sat 08:00–22:30. R. UL­S­W SOUL SOUVLAKI This double-story souvlaki shop is cleverly built out of a reconstructed shipping container. Soul Souvlaki has come a long way since owner Dino Vlachos started out with a market stall at Maboneng’s Sunday Market on Main in 2012, drawing the crowds with his freshly made Greek street food. It’s hard to choose between the lamb, chicken or haloumi souvlaki, each prepared with tsatsiki and salad in a freshly baked pita so make sure to arrive hungry. The deck with its excellent playlist and bar is a great place to wind down a day.QG-5, 8 Albrecht St (cnr Fox St), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 300 0896. Open 10:00– 17:00. RR. L­BS

CHICKEN The chicken has long held sway as the bird of choice for South African palates but in recent months favourites like the Nandos chain have been joined by a slew of indie restaurants offering up variations on the theme.

GLORY NEW Located in the driveway of a soon-to-be opened boutique hotel, eating at Glory is an experience. The wait staff will dismiss the value of looking at the menu, and there’s not much in the way of cutlery but once you taste the contents of a ‘box’ – crispy Thai-inspired chicken for four accompanied by a superb blend of sweet, salty and spicy flavoured small dishes, rice and steamed buns – you will be forgiven for singing Hallelujah. The cocktails are also pretty good.Q81 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 499 7808. Open 12:00–24:00.

Mon 17:00–22:00, Tue 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00– 02:00. Closed Sun. RR. UL­BS­­W6 SUMTING FRESH Crispy chicken strips are the main ingredient at this minimalist gourmet street food joint and the place is fuelled by the same energy you’ll find at the weekend market stalls where Sumting Fresh first opened and still operates. With their own lingo and a range of signature chants, a love of fried chicken plus innovative dishes such as ‘Gujon’ Chicken (strips served with Asian slaw, skinny fries, aioli, sweet chilli sauce and a watermelon slice), and the unforgettable Gua Bao (a Taiwanese steamed bun filled with chicken and sriracha mayo), this place provides maximum satisfaction for fans of the chicken. It's no surprise it landed on the The Guardian’s list of ‘Ten amazing street food market stalls across the world’ (2015).Q79 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 2331, sumtingfresh.co.za.

Open 10:00–21:00. R-RR. L­U

TURKISH SHAWARMA & GRILL This is a great value, down-to-earth family-run halal restaurant on Melville’s colourful main street. The extensive menu includes grilled meats, shawarmas and kebabs, freshly baked breads and a range of tasty salads and dips to mix and match. Order a grilled platter to share and there will be plenty left over for home time.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1125. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri-Sun 11:30–22:00. R-RR. TB S WORLD OF SAMOOSAS Tucked in to the shopping mecca Oriental Plaza this busy restaurant with a fast food counter is famous for its wide variety of samoosas. Try the coconut samoosas with some masala tea.QA-4, Oriental Plaza, S186 S. Upper Mall, cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Lover’s Walk, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 833 1139, worldofsamoosas.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00 TLBS­­ facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Sumting Fresh, Norwood

southafricabikefestival.com May – August 2017 29

Where to eat

Where to eat ETHNIC NEIGHBOURHOODS

Che Argentine Grill, Maboneng

CHINATOWN The city’s original Chinatown (known as First Chinatown) was settled on Commissioner Street (B-5) in downtown Joburg in the early 20th-century. In the early 1990s much of the community moved from the city centre, although some stalwarts still remain including the city’s longest-running Chinese restaurant Swallow’s Inn and the eclectic supermarket Sui Hing Hong. Joburg’s brash New Chinatown is situated along Derrick Avenue in the eastern suburb of Cyrildene. The storefronts are unmistakably Asian and include supermarkets, massage parlours, fireworks stockists, acupuncturists and restaurants offering a diversity of predominantly Chinese food. Adventurous eaters will love it here – there’s not much English spoken so have fun deciphering the untranslated menus.

MEAT BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so much that they decided to open a burger joint. Located at Rosebank’s sexy new art hot spot, the Trumpet building on Keyes Art Mile, BGR serves burgers three ways: the cheeseburger, hamburger or the lettuce-wrapped “Cardio” version. For the very hungry, order the double patty. The fare is playfully referred to by the owners as retro-engineered Shake Shack-style, inspired by the New York chain that started out as a Central Park food truck. Ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns and basic toppings is the simple formula which make BGR’s burgers such a hit. Service is fast and friendly and for under R100 you can add crispy french fries and a drink.QK-12, K9 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545, eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30.B S CHE ARGENTINE GRILL The location is an atmospheric old warehouse in Maboneng with a ceiling portrait of a cigar-smoking Che Guevara. Leath­er saddles adorn the place and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life dominates one wall. At night the place is moodily lit by candlelight and the glow of flames leaping from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentine-style steaks are cooked. The empanadas are huge and come in an array of flavours. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce which can be purchased by the bottle, and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert.QG‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264/+27 82 469 0290, cheargentinegrill.co.za.

Open 12:00–23:00. Closed Mon. RRR. I­L­E­B THE BULL RUN This elegant old building attached to Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton was once a countryside tea room. Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Sandton’s financial district. The Bull Run is serious about its meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery.

There’s also a fine selection of vintage brandies, whiskies, cognac and port.QM‑8, 20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, thebullrun.co.za. Open 12:00–22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R70. L­B­S­W 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE POTATO SHED This steampunk-BBQ-smokehouse in a century-old building in Newtown is a convenient pre-theatre dinner and drinks venue. The humble potato is king and meat lovers can look forward to mouthwatering slow-roasted meats such as the ribs: a combo platter that includes cola-andpineapple-basted beef from the fire pit and slow-braised short rib from the embers and ashes. Bring a big appetite.

QB‑4, Newtown Junction, cnr Gwigwi Mrwebi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 590 6133, thepotatoshed.com. Open 12:00-22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00–16:00. RRR-RRRR. Corkage R65. U­LBS­W THE SMOKEHOUSE & GRILL A Southern-style smoked and sticky barbecue menu with supremely tasty burgers and crispy fries, succulent steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a legendary pulled-pork sandwich.

The atmosphere here is lively, the prices upmarket and the staff friendly. It’s also perfectly situated to give you the pick of the neighbourhood’s nightlife attractions post-dinner.

Finish the meal with the taste of peanut butter ice cream.

QB/C-2, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. + 27 11 403 1395, thesmokehouseandgrill.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. ­U­B­W WOMBLES ‘Welcome home’ is how you’ll be greeted at this Joburg institution, with a history dating back to 1984. From the moment you step through the courtyard gate you are part of a refined and genteel atmosphere, the décor transport­ ing you to a grand safari lodge, filled with antiques, Persian rugs, fireplaces and comfortable couches. Wombles makes eating an occasion by getting the basics right – excellent food, service and ambience. You’ll feel equally at home enjoying a romantic dinner or entertaining international clients.QHobart Grove Shopping Centre, 88 Hobart Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 880 2470/+27 11 463 8558, wombles.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:00–21:30, Sat dinner only. Closed Sun. Last orders for starters and mains 21:30 (last drinks/desserts orders 23:30). RRR. U­ILB­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history Fordsburg is a collision of spicy streets and enticing flavours.

With a predominantly Muslim population most restaurants do not serve alcohol and many shops close on Friday lunch time (prayer time). Along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Road and Rahima Moosa Street – particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market – good dining choices include Turkish restaurant Istanbul (52 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 056 5749. Open 11:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30–22:00), the casual sit-in or takeaway spot Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 066 4929. Open 10:00–21:30), and sweetmeats bakery Shalimar Delights (228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 11 832 1675. Open 09:00–21:00). The World of Samoosas kiosk in the famous Oriental Plaza shopping bazaar is the place to stop for samoosas. For a curry lunch there’s The Golden Peacock (38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, orientalplaza. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 15:00, closed Sun). See map on p. 64, A-4 and A-5.

AFRICAN DISTRICT SIX A colourful backdrop celebrates the friendly owner’s childhood in District Six, a vibrant Cape Town neighbourhood destroyed by apartheid, and the food pays tribute to Cape Malay cuisine. The small menu of traditional dishes includes curries, bredie (stew) and bobotie (curried minced meat baked with a rich savoury custard).Q35 Greenhill Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 7226, districtsixeatery.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:30. Closed Mon. RRR. (Corkage R45).

U­­EB­S­ JAMES XVI ETHIOPIAN A tiny no-frills Ethiopian café in fashionable Maboneng serving traditional platters of stews atop spongy injeera. The menu is brief and the owner is always on hand to guide you through the day’s specials.QG-4, Maverick Corner, cnr Commissioner and Maritzburg Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 340 2020.

Open 11:00–18:30, Sun 06:30–15:00. B THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL RESTAURANT Enjoy tasty Mozambican-influenced Portuguese cuisine at this authentic neighbourhood hotel east of Maboneng. The bar attracts a regular crowd, especially when there’s a rugby game at the nearby stadium.

The upstairs restaurant has a terrace with views of Hillbrow’s imposing tower blocks and the place has lots of cred with left-leaning activists, artists and musicians who attend regular book evenings and live music events here. Enjoy tasty calamari, grilled prawns, steak, peri-peri chicken and chicken livers.QH-4, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Troyeville, City Centre, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00.

R-RR. L­E­B

LITTLE ADDIS Joburg’s Ethiopian district is concentrated around a few buildings between Rahima Moosa Street and Troye Street in the eastern part of the city centre, and houses a dizzying array of Ethiopian stores, restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops, barbers and music kiosks. Explore this area on a guided walking tour with African Secrets, who specialise in culinary walks across the city.QTel. +27 84 624 0000. ancientsecrets.co.za.

YEOVILLE This once predominantly Jewish neighbourhood is now famous for its pan-African community (it is estimated that more than half of Yeoville’s population were born elsewhere in Africa). Along busy Raleigh Street which extends into Rockey Street you can find traditional cuisine from Cameroon to Ethiopia. This crowded neighbourhood can be intimidating for the uninitiated so explore it on the excellent Yeoville culinary tour offered by walking tour company Dlala Nje.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, dlalanje.org. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

La Camerounaise, Yeoville

Jono Wood May – August 2017 31

Where to eat

Where to eat COMFORT For food to warm you up on a frosty Joburg winter’s day these are our favourites.

Crabtree & Evelyn Tea Room

HIGH TEA Scones with jam and clotted cream, savoury bites and a selection of fruity and black teas make high tea the way to spend a lazy winter’s afternoon.

Head to the elegant 54 on Bath hotel in Rosebank to polish off the day beside a roaring fireplace surrounded by irresistible sweet and savoury delights (K‑12, Level Four, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8401, 54onbath.com. Bookings must be made in advance. Royal afternoon tea which includes a Kir Royale R295, traditional afternoon tea R245).

At the lavish Palazzo Montecasino you’ll find a surprisingly reasonably priced offering served at the Medeo restaurant or on the terrace. The chef here is a master at creating incredible cakes (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosun.com/the-palazzo-hotel.

Booking and pre-payment essential. R245 per person).

THE CRABTREE & EVELYN TEA ROOM NEW Head to this cosy tea room decorated in abundant botanical prints and accessed by a stairwell in the Crabtree & Evelyn store for a delightful afternoon tea. Inspired by the English countryside this more than 40-year-old brand is synonymous with fragrant soaps, body products and beautifully packaged teas and biscuits, made with flower, fruit and plant essences. Book in advance for ‘A grand high tea’: a balance of sweet and savoury items, among them classic crustless cucumber sandwiches, light-as-a-feather tartlets and fluffy scones with cream and strawberry preserve served with a good range of teas or coffee. Finish off with a cake slice accompanied by a glass of bubbly or cordial: the rosemary cheesecake and egg-free chocolate cake both stand out. Another plus is the charming service, and you get to stock up on goodies as you exit.QDesign Quarter, cnr Leslie & William Nicol Rds, Fourways, tel. +27 11 467 3415, crabtree-evelyn.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00– 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cost R200 per person. L­S See our full list at iyp.me/74154f.

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BISTRO MICHEL Michel Morand’s chic bistro serves up dishes with flavours remembered from his grandmother’s kitchen in Lyon and inspired by Parisian-style eateries. The specials menu changes seasonally but you will always find timeless favourites such as Chicken Cordon Bleu with mushroom sauce, fish and chips with tartare sauce, and traditional Parisian beef tartare with frites on the menu. Service is top-notch and the setting is elegant. The extensive wine list features local and French choices.QM-9, Blu Bird Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 0769, bistromichel.co.za. Open dinner Mon–Sat from 18:00, lunch Tue–Sun from 12:00. RRR. LUB STELLE Inspired by Northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and regularly devise new seasonal dishes at this friendly restaurant, recently relocated to Sandton. You can expect to find porcini mushrooms and artichokes when the time is right. The pastas are light and homemade and if you are a meat eater don’t leave without trying the shredded fillet with mushrooms or fettucine lamb ragu. For desserts Graziero’s delicate hand-crafted choux pastry selection is unbeatable.QL-9, 61 Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 646 6996, stellerestaurant.co.za.

Open 11:30–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR-RRR. LUB THE COUNTESS Everything handmade is a guiding precept of this steam­ punk-inspired restaurant located in an inventive doublestorey shipping container. Hearty home cooking meets the American South with lots of smoky and sweet barbecue flavours, excellent pickled vegetables, and an emphasis on comfort foods given a twist. Don’t leave without tasting the Pot de Crème, a supreme dessert. There is also a good breakfast menu and milkshakes that have incited poetry.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Avenue, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361, thecountess.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri until 22:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Last orders one hour before closing time. RR. LUBEW THE FEDERAL Chef James Diack’s third Joburg restaurant builds on his farmto-table philosophy with 90 percent of ingredients sourced directly from his Magaliesberg family farm. An American diner crossed with a gastropub, on the menu are sandwiches, burgers and footlong hot dogs served Hawaiian (with grilled pineapple) or New York-style with plenty of relishes. Mains include slow cooked lamb potpie, vegan chickpea curry and Southern fried buttermilk marinated free-range chicken.

The hearty budget brunch menu (R70 per person) includes a Mimosa cocktail, juice or coffee.QCnr 2nd Ave and 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 10 500 6949. Open 12:00–22:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

oneNINEone at Hyatt Regency, Rosebank

FOOD & DRINK From luxury teas to craft beer, the finest Cape wines and locally distilled craft spirits if you favour a drink to accompany your meal Joburg restaurants will surprise you with an exciting array of pairing options.

BRIAN LARA RUM EATERY Be transported to a Caribbean island in this kitsch beach bar-themed joint. Sip on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada served in an actual pine­apple. The brief eatery menu offers West Indian favourites like jerk chicken and crab curry.Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. B LUKE DALE ROBERTS X SAXON This extraordinary fine-dining experience pairs The Saxon Hotel with South Africa’s top ranked chef Luke Dale-Roberts of Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (on the World’s Top 50 Restaurants list). Book well in advance for an unforgettable eight-course tast­ing menu served with a luxury tea or wine pairing. Outstanding service, unique flavour combinations and cheeky wine pairings.QK-9, Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za.

Open 18:30–23:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RRRR. LUW MARBLE The heart of star chef David Higgs’s 250-seater rooftop restaurant is the flaming grill separated from the lounge and bar by a gorgeous glass wine cellar. The wooden floors give the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky with views towards the Magaliesberg mountains. The bar has a superb cocktails menu, making it a popular sundowners location.QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, cnr Keyes and Jellicoe Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble. restaurant. Open for lunch from 12:00 (last booking 14:30), dinner from 18:30. RRRR LU facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ONENINEONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and splashes of colour recalling Joburg spring jacaranda blooms The Hyatt Regency’s restaurant led by chef Andrew Atkinson and executive sous chef Shaneil Dinna offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The three-course dinner menu is seasonal with local ingredients fused with seasoning influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to the Lobby Lounge or the courtyard for a nightcap.QK/L-12, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:15–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:15–11:00. Lunch, dinner Mon–Sat 12:30–22:00. RRRR. LTB­W WINEHOUSE This award-winning boutique hotel restaurant was inspired by a painting of chanteuse Amy Winehouse. The low lighting and fireplace make for a cosy dinner. The service here is excellent and Winehouse offers a reasonably-priced superb fivecourse fine dining menu. The restaurant boasts a superb wine collection.QK-11, Ten Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2442, tenbompas-restaurant. co.za. Mon–Sat lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner 18:30–22:00.

Sun lunch only. RRRR or set menu, R400. LUBW URBANOLOGI This chic restaurant located in a historic mining warehouse in the city is where you’ll find much-awarded chef Angelo Scirocco serving up sublime flavours using Asian-inspired ingredients and Japanese street food styles, all exquisitely plated.

Urbanologi shares space with Mad Giant craft beer brewery and the menu complements the label’s craft beers.QB-5, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1399, urbanologi.co.za. Open 12:00–16:00 and 19:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. RR-RRR. LUBEW May – August 2017 33

Hidden Joburg

A GOLD-DIGGER’S DELIGHT Paul Duncan’s must-have reference book ‘Hidden Johannesburg’, with photographs by Alain Proust, reveals many secrets of the city’s gold mining past and rich architectural heritage. It also prompted us to share a number of other hidden treasures that might not be immediately obvious.

Rand Club (1904), City Centre

Northwards (1904), Parktown Ridge Visiting Joburg for its history is like attending a peepshow; the tantalizing glimpses are never as satisfying as they should be. Rapid changes in the city’s short 130-year history have meant that the cityscape’s appearance never tells the full story. You still have to dig to uncover gold here.

In his lavish and highly collectable book Duncan describes Joburg as “a city plonked down and grown like some hybrid maverick in the hot African veld”. With plenty of land and mining wealth from its founding (1886) Johannesburg was able to quickly construct its way from shacks and shanties to an extraordinary array of architectural styles, from fin de siècle to Beaux-Arts, Arts and Crafts to neoclassical.

Duncan writes: “Johannesburg has been in a constant state of reinvention as long as it’s been in existence” and through it all the city has always “pretended to be cosmopolitan”. His quest was to rediscover buildings of great architectural beauty or significance. In some ways what is not visible strongly defines the city than what is visible.

This only contributes to the sense of adventure for exploring many repurposed spaces. Using Duncan as our guide we have picked out 10 spaces of his Hidden Johannesburg that give a sense of the city’s social and architectural history and come up with our own list of Hidden Joburg treasures.

34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE VIEW (1896) One of Johannesburg’s oldest surviving houses, this Victorian mansion is remarkable for its exquisitely restored interiors and former owner. From 1903 Sir Thomas Cullinan lived here with his family. A bricklayer-turned prospector his Premier Diamond Mine entered the history books with the discovery of the Cullinan Diamond, the world’s largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, now part of the British Crown Jewels. Since 1976 the house has served as the Transvaal Scottish Regiment headquarters.QRidge Rd, Parktown.

THE OLD FORT (1896) Built by the ZAR Republic, the British took control of the fort following the Jameson Raid, and used it as a prison from 1899. The impressive crenellated entrance and bastions with gun emplacements were never used to defend the city. Instead the site became a prison for common criminals and increasingly, following the 1952 Defiance Campaign, political prisoners. Among its former occupants were Gandhi, and remarkably two Nobel peace-prize winners Nelson Mandela and Albert Luthuli. The prison was shut in 1983 and the Old Fort is now part of the impressive Constitution Hill complex.

QD-2, Kotze St, Braamfontein, constitutionhill.org.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

CORNER HOUSE (1903) This elegant building by Leck & Emley built on Commissioner Street, a main thoroughfare of early Johannesburg, started life as an iron-roofed wooden shack. It became the seat of the company that once controlled the world’s richest gold mines and Johannesburg’s first ‘skyscraper’. Among its many striking features is its opulent staircases, the red-brown cut stone of its exterior, corner turrets and copper-clad projecting central bay that runs vertically up the ten-storey building. Today the building houses law firms and a coding school and is the head office for Urban Ocean property developers.

QD-5, 44 Main St, Marshalltown, City Centre.

RAND CLUB (1904) Once the centre of Johannesburg’s powerful mining world this exclusive member’s club – to which women were only admitted in 1993 and people of colour post-1994 – today is reinventing itself for a city no longer dependant on mining wealth. While the club first opened in 1887 the current building, its third, was designed by Leck & Emley who transformed the small brick structure into a four-storey Beaux-Arts edifice with a steel frame imported from Glasgow. The interiors that includes a sweeping staircase and impressive glass dome, the 103-foot long teak bar, billiards room, ball room and the member’s-only library have been exquisitely maintained and a visit can’t but not conjure up the once gloriously affluent mining past.QD-5, Cnr of Fox and Loveday Sts, Marshalltown, randclub.co.za. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Alain Proust NORTHWARDS (1904) Designed by Herbert Baker this 40-room mansion built from local quartzite was one of many designed for the wealthy Randlords who escaped the mining dust to the city’s ridges seeking fresh air. Northwards was home to one of Joburg’s most flamboyant socialites, Josie Dale Lace (her parents named her Josephine Brink and she was born in the Karoo). Legend has it she travelled around Johannesburg in a zebra-drawn carriage. Elements of English design and architecture mix with Cape Dutch features to produce a spectacular property with a double-volume ballroom, Palladian windows and elaborate gables. The house is now owned by the Northwards Trust.QRockridge Rd, Parktown.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE (1908) The two simple thatch-roofed rondawels called The Kraal, that were once home to Mahatma Gandhi, are today part of a seven-room guesthouse decorated with furniture and objects sourced from Gandhi’s Indian home state of Gujarat. They were designed by German architect and body-builder Herman Kallenbach and the pair lived here from 1908 to the end of 1909. This modest location, which today still emits a sense of tranquility, is the place where Gandhi’s philosophy of non-violent resistance Satyagraha (derived from a Sanskrit word) was formulated, a movement that shook the world. Owned by French Company Voyageurs du Monde the museum is open to visitors.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, satyagrahahouse.com.

May – August 2017 35

Hidden Joburg VILLA ARCADIA (1909) Designed by Herbert Baker and built in 1909 from indigenous materials this stately Italianate mansion overlooked the forest that was in place of what is now suburban Saxonwold. This was the home of mining magnate and politician Sir Lionel Phillips and his wife Lady Florence Phillips, to whom the city owes a great cultural debt. Lady Phillips was a tireless advocate for the arts and founded the Johannesburg Art Gallery. She discovered the piece of land on which the house came to stand while out horseriding, leaving the dusty gold mining heart of the city for the nearby Parktown Ridge. The house has had an interesting history. After the Phillips family moved out Villa Arcadia was bought for use as a Jewish orphanage and operated as such for many years until its sale to Hollard Insurance Company, who in a fitting tribute to Lady Phillips completed a magnificent restoration and have filled it with some of the pieces of the company’s vast contemporary art collection.QOxford Rd, Parktown.

PARK STATION (1932) Designed by Gordon Leith Park Station, built before the advent of air transport, was regarded as ‘the pinnacle of passenger transport in Africa’. Today a visit reveals only the functional modern edifice built for a post-gold rush city. The original structure housed the legendary glamorous Blue Room restaurant. The building was fitted with elephant head sculptures, Tuscan columns, grand vaulted concourses, fish ponds and custom-made ceramic tiles.

While it remains locked off from public view, recent reports have it that the reopening of the Blue Room is being explored.QD-3, De Villiers St, City Centre.

ANSTEY’S BUILDING (1936) Once housing a glamorous department store this 17-storey building which briefly was one of the city’s tallest, was designed by Emley & Williamson. With its zigzag profile and stepped outline it was one of the city’s most impressive Art Deco buildings and exemplified the optimism and worldliness of the age. Over the years it has been home to many colourful characters including the gay theatre director and member of the ANC’s armed wing, Cecil Williams who in 1959 was acquitted after being tried for treason.

When Nelson Mandela was arrested in 1962, he was disguised as Williams’ driver. It is believed that Williams inspired the introduction of South Africa’s progressive laws on homosexuality brought into being by Mandela’s signing of the Constitution in 1994. Today Anstey’s is an apartment block.QD-4, Rahima Moosa St, City Centre.

ANGLO AMERICAN HEAD OFFICE (1939) A monumental architectural work, this building was commissioned by Sir Ernest Oppenheimer from London architectural firm Burnet, Tait & Lorne. Duncan mentions the BBC Broadcasting House (1934) as one of its stylistic antecedents. Today it is still the African headquarters of Anglo American mining company. Occupying a full city block, the building is flanked by a pedestrian walkway that offers the perfect view of the imposing stone-faced exterior, ornate doors.QC-5, 44 Main St, Marshalltown, City Centre.

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The View (1896), Parktown

Alain Proust

HERITAGE TOURS JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION Many of the sites mentioned can be visited on tours with The Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, a non-profit organisation founded in 1985 dedicated to documenting and protecting the city’s heritage buildings. The foundation offers a regular programme of weekend tours and publishes a schedule at the start of each quarter. Tours are led by experts and visit many spaces that may otherwise be off-limits to the public. See the programme at joburgheritage.org.za/ events.html. Tickets from Computicket (under the foundation’s former name Parktown and Westcliff Heritage Trust).

Hidden Johannesburg by Paul Duncan and photographer Alain Proust is available from good bookstores and online sites (Random House South Africa, R403). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Bridge Books, City Centre

UNCOVER NEW TREASURES Hidden, secret or just plain unexpected, Joburg is full of surprises and there’s lots of fun to be had in seeking out places that even most locals may not have heard about. Because we are confident that this city has so many secrets to share we decided to spill the beans knowing full well that by our next issue we will have discovered a whole lot more.

IN THE BANK The financial capital of South Africa, Joburg is home to the headquarters of all of the country’s leading banks and the pursuit of wealth certainly keeps this city busy. To learn about the history of all things money, visit the ABSA Money Museum hidden inside the sparkling halls of the Barclays Bank skyscraper in the city centre (E-5, Barclays Tower West, 15 Troye St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 350 3003.

Open 08:30–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Note that you must show a photo ID to enter the building).

To glimpse the city’s gold rush origins, pay a visit to the downtown headquarters of Standard Bank. Beneath the building is Ferreira Mine Stope, a long forgotten mine entrance that was rediscovered during the 1980s and has been preserved as a small museum. There’s a small exhibition of old photographs, early prospecting maps and oldfashioned mining gear illustrating how Joburg’s gold rush began (D-5, Standard Bank, 5 Simmonds St, City Centre, Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free). Also part of a former bank is the building on 85 Commissioner Street. Built in the early 1940s by leading architect Gordon Leith for Barclays Bank, it is an interesting example of the early-modernist style with a towering trifacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ple-volume marble banking hall, above which hangs a giant brass-and-glass chandelier. In the centre of the banking hall is a weekday food hall, while upstairs on the mezzanine level you’ll find Bridge Books bookshop and The Brass Bar on 85 (D-5, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre, +27 11 074 6300. Open 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun).

AT THE BAR South Africa arguably invented the ‘secret’ pop-up bar in the 1970s when illegal so-called ‘shebeens’ started cropping in township backyards and living rooms in order to circumvent apartheid’s restrictions on township drinking.

Following the advent of democracy most shebeens went mainstream and become fully fledged bars and pubs.

However, as in any great city, Joburg will always have its fair share of hidden nightlife hotspots that most visitors wouldn’t normally find without a little local help. Here are some of our favourites.

ON THE ROOFTOP Randlords, a glamorous rooftop club perched 22 floors above the city in the student district of Braamfontein, ofMay – August 2017 37

Hidden Joburg

Yeoville Dinner Club, Yeoville

Nightlife

Heather Mason

PSST! ... SECRET DINING CHEZ FONG NEW This weekly bookings-only pop-up restaurant on the covered patio of a Upper Houghton mansion is overseen by the vivacious Su-Yen Thornhill of ScottishChinese extraction. Expect a fun night out with a multi-course (between eight and 10) Asian-influenced tasting menu. The menu changes weekly and everything you will taste is home-made including the excellent hoisin sauce that you will want to pour over every morsel. Thornhill’s dishes are beautifully plated and each dish is to be relished. Menu standouts when we visited were the chicken and egg drop sweetcorn soup, shitake and shimeji mushrooms with lotus root greens and sesame-crusted seared tuna with daikon radish and pickled ginger.Q91 Saint Patrick Rd, Houghton, tel. +27 74 361 9079, see Chez Fong on Facebook. Open Wed by bookings only 19:00– 22:00. Cost R500 per person. Bring your own drinks.

YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB NEW You couldn’t wish for a better tour guide to the tastes of the African melting pot that is Yeoville than Sanza Sandile. A former radio journalist he is something of a local legend as much for his stories and unique insights as for his cooking. Even global food celebrity Anthony Bourdain tracked him down for his local knowledge and cooking expertise. At his Yeoville dinner club at a rooftop location along the suburb’s bustling main thoroughfare, Rockey Street, he serves up a ‘Pan Afrikan Plate’ long table dinner with ingredients that have been sourced from the neighbourhood market and kitchens. From Mozambican-style fried fish to Nigerian-inspired Jollof rice and Middle-Eastern falafel and dips the table is a feast for the eyes and the stomach.

You’ll share it with a cosmopolitan crowd of locals and visitors and if you are in luck the Japanese DJ might be spinning the decks at the reggae club next door, making for an even more unforgettable night.Q1st Fl. 24 Rockey St, Yeoville, tel. +27 83 447 4235, see Yeoville Dinner Club on Facebook. Cost R400 per person.

38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

fers up some of the most memorable views in the city, with the entire glittering downtown cityscape spread out before you. Randlords only opens for special club nights and occasional rooftop concerts so keep an eye on their Facebook page for any upcoming events (B-2, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41 de Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, randlords.co.za). Across town in Maboneng The AGOG, a building which houses the contemporary art gallery AGOG and The Nine Barrels wine bar (see Nightlife), has a small and exclusive whisky bar on its rooftop called The Q Club. Drop by on Sundays for the sundowner session (G-4, 12 Lower Ross Street, +27 79 458 5350, qclubjoburg.com). A few blocks over on Auret Street look out for the Rooftop Salsa party every Sunday which takes place on a purpose-built space on the roof of a residential building (G-5, 28 Auret St, tel. +27 76 562 7298, facebook. com/RooftopSalsa, from 15:00-19:00, entrance costs R50).

MEMBER’S ONLY Mesh Club (see Nightlife) in Rosebank is a super-stylish and exclusive member’s work space for budding and established entrepreneurs. From 4pm play replaces work and the Mesh Club bar, with its bold contemporary artworks and great sunset view, opens for cocktails. Each month brings with it a new signature cocktail, inspired by the artworks on display. At the other end of the spectrum is The Tennis Club, a member’s club and bar founded in 2016 on the site of the old Ellis Park Tennis Stadium. The club is a casual and bohemian, no-frills kind of spot that appeals to the city’s creative set. Currently hosting DJ parties twice a month the Tennis Club will officially launch in June as a bar that is open daily (H-3, Ellis Park Tennis Stadium, cnr Miller St and Bertrams Rd, Ellis Park, facebook.com/thetennisclubjhb).

SECRET ROOMS Zebra Inn is a cheap and grungy bar in the centre of the trendy Maboneng precinct that is owned and run by Swazi Werner, who has a woodwork studio on the ground floor.

Look for the building painted with zebra stripes and ring the buzzer to get in. Then walk past Werner’s collection of cars and follow the stairs up to the bar where you’ll be greeted by the mounted heads of a host of African animals, part of Werner’s vast taxidermy collection (G-4, 252 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 494 7763. Open daily from 12:00). Another unusual downtown bar with a less than obvious entrance is The Vault at the Faircity Mapungubwe Hotel (open 17:00–22:00. Call ahead to check). The bar is housed in the hotel’s basement in what was once the vault (complete with the original brass and copper safety deposit boxes) of the French Bank (C-5, 50 Marshall St, Marshalltown, tel. +27 11 429 2600, mapungubwehotel.co.za). In Rosebank, hidden inside the back of Coalition pizzeria, is Sin & Taxes, a self-confessed ‘speakeasy’ run by expert mixologist Julian Short. The dimly-lit one-room bar specialises in cocktails and there’s a new themed menu each season. Given its tiny proportions, the bar fills up very quickly. If the brass wall which conceals the entrance doesn’t open for you, take that as an indication that the bar is full (K-12, Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank. Open 17:00–01:00. Closed Sun, Mon). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

First Thursdays art party at Keyes Art Mile, Rosebank

Justin Lee

TOP 10 NIGHTLIFE HAUNTS Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and nightlife districts. The only tricky bit is that the main nightlife areas are spread across the city so plan your night out in advance. If drinking, take a taxi or book an Uber (see p. 18). For the latest gigs, festivals and other events check out our What’s on calendar online at iyp.me/ johannesburg/events.

This is our pick of ten essential Joburg nightlife experiences to add to your itinerary.

 COCKTAILS South Africa has a burgeoning craft spirit industry and great cocktail bars to match. Try a classic G & T made with local craft gin or opt for something more extravagant at one of Joburg’s many dedicated cocktail bars.

 DRINK SOUTH AFRICAN WINE South Africa is the world’s seventh largest wine producer and everywhere you go in Joburg you’ll find a good range of reasonably priced wines on the menu. To taste unusual boutique wines visit the Ace + Pearl wine bar in Craighall Park or The Nine Barrels at AGOG in Maboneng. For wines to take home Norman Goodfellows Wine and Spirits Merchants cannot be beaten.

 LISTEN TO JAZZ

 LAUGH OUT LOUD If you enjoy stand-up comedy visit one of Joburg’s dedicated comedy clubs – the city has a regular stand-up circuit.

 CLUBBING House music rules in this town and you can find people dancing to it at bars and clubs across the city. Dress to impress and try pass the velvet rope at Sandton’s flashy Taboo, join the urban underground downtown at And Club or find pounding trance and techno at the gay club Babylon.

 DRINK IN JOBURG’S HISTORY Despite a constant hunger for the new Joburgers also cling proudly to their heritage landmarks, which in a town that was built on the back of the world’s biggest gold rush, naturally includes pubs. Among the oldest are Kitchener’s (opened 1898), Radium Beerhall (opened 1929) and the recently restored bar at The Cosmopolitan (1899).

 CHEER ON THE SPRINGBOKS Show your allegiance to the national rugby team by ordering a Springbok shooter (Crème de Menthe and the creamy liqueur Amarula). If you are heading to a rugby match at Ellis Park then pre- and post-match drinks at nearby The Troyeville Hotel is essential.

Ever since the heady days of swinging Sophiatown in the 1950s when the likes of Hugh Masekela and Miriam Makeba set the airwaves alight with their homegrown brand of African jazz, Joburg has remained at the epicentre of the country’s jazz scene. These days the biggest names can be found on the stage or in the audience at leading jazz club The Orbit.

 BAR HOPPING IN BRAAMFONTEIN

 GO TO A GIG

Joburg’s craft beer industry is on the rise and there are plenty of top-notch labels to try. Look out for Soweto Gold, Soweto’s own craft beer label and visit the impressive Mad Giant craft brewery in downtown Joburg for a tasting.

Jazz, soul, funk, hip hop, house, indie and rock – Joburg’s live music scene has something for everyone and there are plenty of live music venues. See iyp.me/johannesburg/events. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

With Joburg’s two main university campuses on its doorstep, Braamfontein has a big student community and a youthful atmosphere. On weekends the party keeps going until the early hours. The areas around Juta Street and The Grove square are among the city’s most energetic nightlife hotspots.

 TRY THE LOCAL BEERS

May – August 2017 39

Nightlife

Nightlife

4pm at Mesh, Keyes Art Mile, Rosebank

COOL BARS Five years ago you would have been hard-pressed to choose a cool bar in this city. But today the bar scene is flourishing and offers plenty of options for every taste.

4PM AT MESH Join the sophisticated business set at this sexy cocktail lounge, housed in a private mem­bers’ club in the Trumpet building on the art and design-inspired Keyes Art Mile. A new cocktail debuts on the menu each month, using a classic recipe as a base and given a twist. Savour your drink with a fabulous view over Joburg’s tree-filled suburbs. We favour the Corpse Reviver, a gin-based cocktail first named in 1889 - equal parts Cointreau, Caperitif (a classy South African fortified wine), Absinthe and orange zest for flavour.

QK‑12, Trumpet, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub.co.za. Open 16:00–23:00. B­W ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this chic little wine bar has a superb selection of South African boutique wines that you won’t find anywhere else. Labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events. Order a bottle (one glass is never enough) and enjoy it with a plate of French nibbles.

QK‑11, Albans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, acepearl.com. Open Tue–Thu 17:00–23:00, Fri 15:00–00:00, Sat 17:00–23:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B LENIN’S VODKA BAR With more than 40 vodka brands this quirky Soviet-themed bar in Maboneng has probably the best vodka se­lection to be found this side of Russia. On the house cocktail list we particularly like the Vlad (crème de cassis with some Stoli Razberi) and the Caipiroska (vodka, fresh limes, sour mix and Sprite).QG‑4, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 76 030 4200, lenins.co.za. Open 16:00– late, Sun 12:00–late. Closed Mon, Tue. B 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LIVING ROOM A covered rooftop garden with one of the best views of the downtown skyline, this is the place to enjoy an urban sunset.

The best time to visit this café-bar is for the happening Sundays in the Living Room sundowner party (a cover charge applies).QG-5, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 029 0556, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open Mon–Wed 11:00–17:00, Thu– Sat 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Call ahead to check B THE NINE BARRELS This downtown wine and tapas bar shares space with a contemporary art gallery and a rooftop whisky and cigar lounge. The carefully chosen wine list showcases a wide selection of excellent local wines and the urban-chic atmosphere is understated and sophisticated, all bare brick walls and chandeliers made from recycled bottles.QG-4, 12 Lower Ross St, Maboneng, City Centre, theninebarrels. com. Open 11:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Tue. LE­B REPUBLIC OF 94 NEW Boasting one of the longest bars (more than 14m) this sophisticated Braamfontein den has low-lit banquette seating, moody murals by graffiti artist Justin Nomad and offers an adult alternative to the area’s many student hangouts.

The name celebrates South Africa’s democracy declared in 1994. A vast courtyard out back operates as a beer garden in fine weather.QC‑3, 94 Juta St, Braamfontein. Open 12:30–02:00, Sun 12:30–23:00. Closed Mon-Wed. E­B SIN & TAXES NEW Behind what appears to be a brass feature wall hidden in the back of the tiny Coalition pizzeria, is a speakeasy-style cocktail bar serving some of the most exclusive drinks in town.

The themed menu is seasononal. Given the limited seating and self-consciously ‘secret’ nature of the place, you’ll need to rock up early to get a seat.QShop 4 Park Corner, 2 Bolton Rd, Rosebank. Open 17:00–01:00. Closed Sun, Mon. L johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

81 de Korte Street Braamfontein Tel: +27 (0)11 339 66 45 E-mail: info@theorbit.co.za www.theorbit.co.za Image: Siphiwe Mhlambi

LIVE MUSIC AND JAZZ CLUBS

COMEDY CLUBS

THE GOOD LUCK BAR Behind a pair of hulking triple-volume doors bearing decades-old warnings against the dangers of dynamite is this spacious warehouse turned live music club named in honour of the early 1890s drinking establishments that were said to have operated from this location during Joburg’s gold rush. There are gigs every weekend featuring everything from country and folk to Afrobeat and heavy metal.QB‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 84 683 4413, goodluckbar.co.za.

Comedy is alive and kicking in Joburg with plenty of special events and regular stand-up. Funnyman Joe Parker’s long-running comedy club Parker’s Comedy and Jive is the site of Comedy Central’s live shows and attracts some of South Africa’s best known stand-up acts (Montecasino Casino and Entertainment Complex, Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 0082, parkerscomedy.com). Melrose Arch is home to The Goliath Comedy Club and Roast Café, a huge comedy club run by the highly regarded local duo Goliath and Goliath. Enjoy good food at the Roast Café (M‑11, 10A The High St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 76 856 4215).

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience at this highly respected jazz club. A slick café-restaurant greets you downstairs, while upstairs the bar and a stage surrounded by tables awaits (bookings essential). As well as jazz gigs, The Orbit also hosts regular cultural events such as the excellent monthly Science & Cocktails evening, a perfect combination of science, jazz music and well-mixed drinks. See What's On for the lineup of events and follow us online for updates. The Orbit hosts jazz performances just about every night of the year.QC‑3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645/+27 78 398 6250, theorbit. co.za. Open for performances Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. Tickets from R60. E­B ­K facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

NIGHTCLUBS Serious clubbers should head to minimalist And Club, a lead­ing house, techno and drum and bass club in the gritty city (B‑4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, andclub. co.za. Open Thu–Sat). Babylon is a popular gay nightclub with dark lighting, pounding trance music and sexy barmen in nothing but their Y-fronts (Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3215, babylonnightlife.com. Open Wed–Sun). The swanky set enjoy Taboo for the sounds of top local and international house DJs. Beware the velvet rope – a smart dress code applies (M-8, 24 Central, Cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 2200, taboo.co.za. Open Fri–Sat).

May – August 2017 41

Nightlife

Nightlife THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhood has seen bet­ ter days, this historic pub dating back to 1929 still brims with warmth and char­acter. The bar dates back even further having been brought here from a city pub, and it’s famous for having been a platform for 1920s unionist Pickhandle Mary. On Fridays and Saturdays there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs. The eclectic decor and motley regular crew propping up the bar only add to the place’s unique charm.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–24:00.

Gig admission from R100 on Saturday nights. E

HOTEL BARS Mad Giant brewery, City Centre

HISTORIC PUBS BRASS BAR ON 85 NEW While not strictly speaking an historic pub, Brass Bar on 85 has the distinction of occupying the mezzanine level of a grand modernist building that dates back to the 1940s when this address was the headquarters of Barclays Bank in South Africa. The surroundings are impressive with marble columns sweeping up to the ceiling and a view over the ground floor which is now occupied by a weekday food hall. Enjoy everything from fresh juices to burgers and dim sum here. The friendly bar serves cocktails and southern African beers in these grand surroundings. Buy local titles across the staircase at Bridge Books.QD-5, City Central, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 074 6300. Open 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. E­BW

THE HIDEOUT Part of the Curiocity African Design Hostel, this is a good place to meet fellow travellers. Sink into the lounge furniture, grab a seat on the streetside terrace or dip your feet in the hot tub in the backyard. Once the premises of Pacific Press, whose owners clandestinely printed anti-apartheid publications, it is rumoured that Nelson Mandela occasionally took refuge here.QG-5, Curiocity Backpackers, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 592 0515, curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 10:00– 22:00. L­B­W THE IMMIGRANT NEW Adjoining the Once in Joburg ‘flashpackers’ hostel, The Immigrant attracts a fun-loving twenty-something party crowd. The bar is especially lively on weekends when the large two-tiered terrace overlooking Braamfontein’s busy Grove Square, swells with crowds drawn in by the house beats. There’s a decent craft beer selection or order one of the signature citrus-based jam jar cocktails.QC-3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 443 0084. Open 07:00–22:30, Fri, Sat 07:30–01:00. U­ELB­W

THE COSMOPOLITAN BAR BY CUBE A local heritage landmark (built in 1899) that was once a hotel the grand Victorian building was restored in mid2016 and converted into an art gallery, coffee shop, fashion concept store, sculpture garden and The Cosmopolitan bar and fine dining restaurant. By day the minimalist ground floor bar is flooded with natural light, and by night candles create an intimate atmosphere redolent of a Parisian bistro.

Q24 Albrecht St (cnr Commissioner St), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 64 279 2239, thecosmopolitan.joburg.

Bar and restaurant open 12:00–22:30, Sun 12:00–18:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. RRR. ­B

THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt Regency’s courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of cen­tral Rosebank. Enjoy drinks and cigars, with the noise of the city completely muffled and, instead, replaced with birds tweeting overhead and water trickling into infinity pools.QL‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com.

Open 12:00–22:30, Sat–Sun 12:00–23:00. U­L­B

KITCHENER’S CARVERY BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something preten­tious. By day it’s a quiet pub; by night DJs spin soul, funk and electro. If the queue to get in is too long, try popping into Great Dane next door. Cover charges apply after 19:00 Wed – Sat.QC‑3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–04:00, Sun–Tue 10:00–02:00. E­B

THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL The bar at this historic hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville first opened its doors in 1939. Beloved by rugby fans, on match days at the nearby Ellis Park Stadium (now Emirates Airline Park) the place is packed with fans in their team colours. A menu of tasty Portuguese food is complemented by a range of beers from Mozambique.QH‑4, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (Cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00 (does open later depending on the crowd). ​Guarded parking at the rear entrance. RR. L­E­B

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The view from Once in Joburg, Braamfontein

BRAAMFONTEIN BAR CRAWL This neighbourhood is the city’s student heartland. If you’re looking for Joburg’s youthful and edgy party central you’ll find it here. Filled with students, fixie bike hipsters cyclists, bearded baristas, street fashion rebels and young creative types, Braam’s wild nightlife is a world away from the slower pace of the northern suburbs and if you want to stay out past midnight this is the place to do it. Most of the nightlife action is centred on the corner of Juta and De Beer Streets and in and around The Grove piazza on the corner of Melle and Juta Streets. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest. Also keep your eye out for parties and concerts at the rooftop venue Randlords, where the 22nd floor view of the city is unparalleled (B-2, South Point Towers, 41 de Korte St, tel. +27 11 489 1930, randlords.co.za).

CORNER JUTA & DE BEER STREETS The corner of Juta Street and De Beer Street is Braamfontein’s hipster hub. Easily identified by the huge purple portrait of Nelson Mandela painted by American street artist Shepard Fairey (who also designed the iconic Obama Hope posters) that looks over the corner, this is the ideal place to start your Braamfontein bar crawl. On Saturdays the party starts early at the rooftop Neighbourgoods Market which swells with a fashionable urban crowd who come to enjoy the gourmet street food stalls, craft beers and live music (every Sat from 09:00–15:00). Downstairs is the always buzzing Smokehouse & Grill which serves some of the best burgers around (C-3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1395 ,thesmokehouseandgrill.co.za. Open 11:30–21:30, Thu–Sat 11:30–22:30. Closed Sun). On the opposite side of the street three bustling bars are all lined up next to each other. Kitcheners (see p. 42) is one of the oldest pubs in Joburg. While the building retains all of its most beautiful period features inside youth culture rules. For a quiet drink facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Justin Lee

arrive in the afternoon. By 19:00 the place is usually packed to the rafters with students and the young at heart who come to enjoy the DJ sets and occasional live music performances, and by 21:00 there’s already a queue out the door.

Next door is Great Dane, another historic building that attracts a similar crowd. Inside the dark and packed main bar area DJs spin everything from 90s house to 80s power ballads, while in the equally jammed rear courtyard you can take a breather (C-3, 5 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 1136.

Open 12:00–04:00, Wed 19:00–04:00. Closed Sun-Tue). The next building along is The Bannister Hotel with a bright and airy bar that looks out onto the street and occasionally hosts live music events (9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 11:00–24:00. Fri, Sat 11:00– 04:00. Closed Sun, Mon). From here it’s a short walk around the corner to Joburg’s best jazz club The Orbit (see p. 41).

THE GROVE This attractive urban piazza is a relatively more sedate place to kick off your bar crawl. There’s a bus stop for the City Sightseeing bus so if you happen to be looking for a place to hop off for an afternoon beer The Grove is ideal.

The Immigrant (see p. 44) at Once in Joburg, whose tagline ‘zwakhala’ roughly translates as ‘come through’ or ‘pull in’, is the place to stop for craft beers and an easygoing atmosphere. Facing the bar on the other side of the square is 86 Public, a small and hip pizzeria (tel. +27 61 157 1823.

Open 12:00–22:00). The pizzas are excellent and the house music on the stereo should keep you in the mood to party on after you’ve eaten. Just behind The Grove at 94 Juta Street is Republic of 94 (see p. 40), the newest addition to Braamfontein’s nightlife scene. A markedly more grown up alternative to Braamfontein’s student-orientated bars, find space at the extra long bar counter inside or make yourself comfortable in their massive beer garden.

May – August 2017 43

Sightseeing

Nightlife CRAFT LABELS

Gin specialists Time Anchor distillery First came artisan coffee, then craft breweries and now South Africa is experiencing a craft spirits revolution. Craft gin in particular appears to be the tipple of choice, while the number of craft vodka and rum labels is also on the rise. Look out for these labels in Joburg’s bars and shops.

AU GOLD VODKA Dumo Ndlovu and Lungelo Fatyela’s Au Gold is a small batch, triple-distilled grain-based vodka. Its name and sleek packaging, emblazoned with a golden outline of Joburg’s iconic skyline, is inspired by the city’s gold mining history.Qaugold.pastelmywebspace.co.za GINOLOGIST An exciting new Joburg label by a devoted team of gin drinkers with a background in science and engineering. Choose from the Citrus Gin, enhanced by ginseng and baobab botanicals, a Floral Gin made with orange blossom and the unique Spice Gin created with exotic peppers and spices.Qginologist.co.za LPV DISTILLERY Based in 1 Fox Precinct, near Mad Giant craft brewery, this small distillery makes a sweet potato-based vodka and two infused spirit aperitifs. Stop in for their cocktails.QB-5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, tel. +27 82 568 0352, lpvdistillery.co.za.

Open Fri, Sat from 12:00.

TIME ANCHOR From a small downtown warehouse on the edge of fashionable Maboneng precinct Shanna-Rae Wilby and Warrick Brown conjure up a unique range of craft gins and rums that include a classic London Dry Gin and Livingstone, a rose coloured ‘new world gin’. Also look out for the ‘Alchemy Trials’ a regularly changing limited edition series of experimental spirits. Recent unusual inventions have included Gincello, a gin and limoncello hybrid.Qtimeanchor.co.za 44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEER CHALKBOARD CAFÉ Who needs decor when the walls are lined with blackboards and even the tables can be scribbled on with chalk? A quirky spot for drinks before or after a film at the adjoining independent cinema The Bioscope. There’s a broad selection of bottled craft beers, including Soweto Gold, and a pizza menu.

QG-5, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00. B­ THE CRAFT BEER LIBRARY Heaven for craft beer aficionados and little larger than a hole-in-the-wall, choose from literally dozens of beer labels here (helpful staff make it easier). New brews are added all the time from around South Africa and the globe.

QCnr 3rd Ave and 6th St, Linden, tel. +27 71 177 9531, craftbeerlibrary.co.za. Open 11:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00– 22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B FOUNDRY Part bistro, part craft bar Foundry has style and substance.

Expect tasty food with subtle fusion twists from the kitchen; perennial favourites include the wild mushroom ravioli and the sour dough pizzas. If you want a buzzing neighbourhood bar with great craft beers, this is it!QJ‑12, 21 3rd Ave (cnr 7th St), Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5828, foundrycafe.co.za. Open 11:00–23:30, Sun 11:00–17:00.

L­B­W MAD GIANT This stand-out bar, brewery and bottle shop is part of the downtown 1 Fox Precinct, a collection of rede­signed century-old warehouses. The brewery shares space with Urbanologi restaurant (see Where to eat) and the indoor tasting bar looks over the brewery. Out front is a sunny beer garden.

Daily brewery tours available.QB‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St (parking at 14 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, madgiant.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. U­L­EB SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE This eye-catching warehouse space with a Sandton skyline view is a treasure chest of covetable antiques and collectables from across the world. Only open on Wednesdays and for occasional weekend parties, the retro party music, broad selection of craft beers and fun yet sensibly restrained patrons are likely to make you forget tomorrow is Thursday.Q6 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235. Open Wed 16:00 until late. L­B STANLEY BEER YARD The converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley with its pretty interlinked courtyards is a chilled place to spend a warm evening. Settle in at one of the long tables under the trees in the beer garden and quench your thirst with a choice of South African craft beers.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open Tue–Thu 15:00-23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. A­E­B­W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

The Cosmopolitan, a heritage landmark in Maboneng

Justin Lee

TOP 10 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS While Joburg may not have a majestic mountain or picturesque beaches to admire, what it lacks in natural splendour it more than makes up for with its rich history, burgeoning art scene and colourful street life. Whether you have only one day or several, here’s our pick of 10 essential sightseeing experiences.

 EXPLORE THE ELLIS PARK PRECINCT

 LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY

 BOOK AN INNER-CITY WALKING TOUR

To get an in-depth view of South Africa’s complex history visit the extensive Apartheid Museum or take a tour of Constitution Hill, the site of a former prison and home to the impressive Constitutional Court. Other must-visit places that offer profound historical insights include Liliesleaf (once the headquarters of the underground resistance) and Sophiatown The Mix that tells the heartbreaking story of the forced removals from this suburb in 1955.

 TRACE YOUR ORIGINS

Visit Maropeng visitors’ centre in the Cradle of Humankind to learn about the evolution of humankind and take a tour of the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of world-famous hominids Mrs Ples and Little Foot were found. The excellent Origins Centre in Braamfontein celebrates the 80 000-year history of humanity.

 SEE THE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL

The buildings of the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill in Braamfontein reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th Century South Africa, while also showcasing the bright, optimistic future of the country enshrined in the modern Constitutional Court.

 GOLD RUSH HISTORY

Visit the Ditsong Museum of Military History, a symbolic home for South African soldiers and veterans, to learn more about the Anglo-Boer Wars and to see engaging displays of vintage military paraphernalia. See how Joburg’s colonial middle classes lived at the Victorian Lindfield House museum or stroll through downtown’s historic Main Street Mining District among the relics of Joburg’s early mining heritage. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

This neighbourhood famous for its historic stadium is being reshaped by a growing community of artists and gallerists (see p. 48). While in the area you shouldn’t miss out on the taste of Mozambican Portuguese cuisine at the legendary The Troyeville Hotel (see p. 42).

Taking a guided walking tour is the best way to encounter the city for the first time and experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view. See p. 48 for our favourite Joburg walking tour companies.

 ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS Take a leisurely stroll through one of Joburg’s parks or head out of the city for an early morning hike through one of Gauteng’s many nature reserves. Joburg's mild winters mean that running is an all-year-round activity and there are plenty of welcoming running clubs.

 SEE THE WRITING ON THE WALLS One of the city’s most enlivening aspects is its flourishing community of local and visiting international graffiti and street artists whose murals brighten up walls everywhere.

Maboneng, Newtown and recently the suburb of Westdene are the best places to catch up with the latest works.

 ROSEBANK’S ART DISTRICT With the richest collection of galleries all neatly arranged across one of Rosebank’s main thoroughfares keeping up with Joburg’s art city status is a snip. Enjoy the First Thursdays art party at Keyes Art Mile or simply wander down Parkwood’s art gallery row along Jan Smuts Avenue.

 SPEND TIME IN SOWETO With a rich history, vibrant contemporary social scene and plenty of fun experiences on offer, Soweto has become one of the country’s top tourist attractions. Take a tour with a local guide or follow the tourist trail to famous Vilakazi Street.

May – August 2017 45

Sightseeing

Sightseeing MAROPENG AND STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the visitors’ centre for the Unesco-protected World Heritage site, the Cradle of Humankind. Take a journey into humankind’s evolution led by interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day. A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves, where the remains of world-famous hominids were discovered. A 45-minute guided tour of the caves leaves every half-hour.QR400 off R563 Hekpoort Rd, Sterkfontein, tel. +27 14 577 9100, maropeng.co.za. Vistors’ centre open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combination ticket (Maropeng and caves) R190. Discounts for kids, students and pensioners. Last tours at both sites at 16:00.

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum explores the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, including ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.

QB-2, Wits University campus, cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, origins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R80, students R45, kids under 12 R40. Guided tours from R200.

James Hall Museum of Transport, La Rochelle

Mark Straw

MUSEUMS APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders.

We recommend you give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R80, kids, pensioners and students R65. Not suitable for young children. Guided tours R85 per person (booking essential).

ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team wearing a Springbok jersey here. This quirky rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia. Fans can also book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium.QG-3, Emirates Airline Park, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein. Open weekdays 10:00–15:00 (entrance via main gate). Call James Dalton Snr on +27 82 791 9992 to book a visit.

SAB WORLD OF BEER A light-hearted, multi-sensory experience tracing the history of all things beer from ancient Egypt to today. Highlights include a cold beer enjoyed in a replica 19th Century South African pub. Tours last around 80 minutes and leave every hour. Tastings for 18+ only.QC-4, 15 Helen Joseph St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 4900, worldofbeer.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00 (last tour 17:00, last beer tasting 15:00), Sun, Mon 10:00–16:00. Admission R115, students and pensioners R105. Tour and beer tasting package R180.

CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum was once the offices of the city’s first black law firm – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheid’s restrictions. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of a young Nelson Mandela.

Walk one block west to 1 Fox Precinct, home of 1 Fox Market Shed and Mad Giant brewery (see Nightlife).QC-5, Cnr Fox St and Gerard Sekoto St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT The largest transport museum in Africa, the eclectic collection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motorbikes, horse-drawn wagons, fire engines, penny farthing bicycles and even steam-powered tractors.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, jhmt.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Closed Mon. Admission is free.

SOPHIATOWN – THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma.

It is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals.Q71–73 Toby St, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, sophiatown.net. Open 09:00–16:30. Closed Sun (visits on Sun by prior arrangement). Admission R35, tour R70. Sophiatown walking tour R120.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars, illustrated by an impressive range of vehicles, uniforms and weaponry.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 10 001 3515, ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat–Sun 09:00–16:30 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Admission R40, kids R30, pensioners R20.

LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the ANC and where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated. Engrossing displays provide an in-depth look at the lives of the leaders who gathered here.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00. Sat, Sun 09:00– 16:00. Admission R110, kids 8-17 yrs old R50, pensioners R40, students R60, under 7, free.

WITS ART MUSEUM (WAM) Home to an extraordinary collection of contemporary and historical African art, the exhibitions change regularly and there’s also a dynamic events programme that includes guided walks with curators and art workshops for kids.

The museum has a budget-friendly café, Olives and Plates.

QB-2, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam.

Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is a historical treasure in the heart of the city.

A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens. The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court.

Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place.

The inspiring court building represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection. Special Art and Justice tours of the building can be arranged or you can visit independently and even watch court proceedings taking place (the court is always is open to the public when in session). The Old Fort at the centre of the complex was built in 1893 and following the end of the Anglo-Boer Wars became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here when he was arrested in 1962. His cell now forms the Mandela Cell exhibition. Next door is the old Women’s Gaol built in 1909 and at the centre of Constitution Hill is the notorious Number 4 prison block. Not for the faint-hearted, wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience.

QD-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00– 17:00. Entrance to museum areas R65, kids, students R30, pensioners R45 (includes optional one hour guided tour), entrance plus two hour guided tour R85, kids, students R55, pensioners R60. Discounts are available for groups and visitors using the City Sightseeing red bus. Tickets can be booked online at webtickets.co.za.

May – August 2017 47

Sightseeing NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH

Art Eye Gallery, Ellis House ART & SPORT IN THE ELLIS PARK PRECINCT On the eastern edge of the city near Maboneng is Doornfontein, known as Ellis Park Precinct for the Ellis Park rugby stadium (now renamed Emirates Airline Park) that is located here. Rugby fans can tour the stadium – the scene of South Africa’s famous 1995 World Cup victory and visit its quirky rugby museum (see p. 46).

Recently this area has become a favoured artist neighbourhood making a detour even more worthwhile.

Overlooking the precinct is Ellis House, home to contemporary art galleries and artists’ studios. The ground floor is occupied by Room (roomgallery.co.za), an innovative independent gallery showcasing artists working in a variety of mediums, including film and photography. On the fifth floor is the massive Art Eye Gallery (arteye.co.za) with exciting artworks on sale and studio spaces for artists in residence. Piece@Ellis House (piece.co.za) shares the floor and specialises in exquisite ethically-sourced high-end contemporary South African arts and crafts, jewellery items and clothing, that have found their way into the hands of a celebrity customer list that includes Michelle Obama.

If Andy Warhol were alive today he might be persuaded to swap The Factory for the Living Artists Emporium, located in the clubhouse of the once-grand Ellis Park tennis club, that in its day hosted visiting champions the likes of Jimmy Connors and Billie Jean King. LAE focuses on supporting emerging artists, by providing space and materials to create their art, and a gallery to display and sell works (livingartistemporium. co.za). On selected weekends The Tennis Club opens with DJs and a party mood (see p. 38).

In neighbouring Lorentzville is Nando’s Central Kitchen (10 Victoria Rd), the iconic headquarters of one of South Africa’s most celebrated brands, and Victoria Yards, a series of industrial warehouses that is set to be transformed into a visionary cultural space that will include studio space for artists and local artisans.

48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Sightseeing TOURS

WALKING AND HIKING

From revealing downtown’s rich shopping secrets to Joburg’s heritage architecture or the latest graffiti and street art, take a tour. These are some recommended guides. Also see p. 36 for details of the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation.

HENNOPS HIKING TRAIL Approximately one hour’s drive north of central Sandton, choose from three well-maintained circular trails that wind their way through the foothills of the Magaliesberg mountains. There’s an easy 2km walk, the 6km Zebra route (allow 2 hours) and the more challenging 11.3km Krokodilberg Route (4-5 hours). Interesting features include an old-fashioned ‘cablecar’ on a pulley crossing the river (you can also detour and use the suspension bridge instead), strange tree-like aloes and some crumbling structures used during the Anglo-Boer wars. There is little shade and no access to drinking water on the route so plan for an early start and arrive prepared.QEntrance to trail off the R511 (10km south of the R105 junction), tel. +27 82 825 9205, hennopstrails.co.za. Admission R60, last entrance at 12:00.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open-top, hop-on hop-off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red City route starts at Park Station Gautrain and has 11 stops that include the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill (two hours without stops). It also links to a whistle-stop two-hour minibus tour of Soweto from the Apartheid Museum (every hour between 10:05–14:05) and a free downtown walking tour from Park Station (tours at 10:30, 13:00 and 15:30). The Green route (one hour) starts at Rosebank Gautrain station, with stops that include Zoo Lake and Constitution Hill.QTel. 0861 733 287, citysightseeing.co.za/johannesburg. Buses leave every 30–40 mins. First bus 09:00, last bus 15:40. Tickets from R190 (R170 online), valid for the Red and Green City tours. Joburg-Soweto combo ticket from R420.

DLALA NJE This innovative company offers walking tours in the inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturdays) and Yeoville (Sundays). You’ll get awe-inspiring views from the 52nd floor of Hillbrow’s Ponte building and a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine in Yeoville.QG-2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea, tel. +27 11 402 2373, dlalanje.org. Tours from R460 per person.

MAINSTREETWALKS Based in Maboneng, Bheki Dube’s tour company encourages visitors to discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot or by bike. Tours include major landmarks as well as more unusual places like Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the historic KwaMaiMai traditional healers market. Also offer Soweto tours. QG-5, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, mainstreetwalks.co.za. Two- to fourhour tours from R250.

MARKET THEATRE TOUR With a rich 40-year history the Market Theatre is a leading South African cultural icon. Join the 90-minute behind-thescenes tour every Wednesday which provides insights into its colourful history and that of the surrounding Newtown area.

QTours start at 11:00 at The Market Theatre, 56 Margaret Mcingana St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za. Tours R20, online booking recommended.

PAST EXPERIENCES Choose from a range of well-researched walking tours that take in the inner city, its communities, architecture and history. Past Experiences specialise in graffiti tours and also offer tailor-made shopping tours.QTel. +27 11 678 3905, pastexperiences.co.za. Tours from R190. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM This sprawling green oasis incorporating the popular Em­ marentia Dam, has extensive parkland ideal for long walks and is also fa­voured by cyclists and dog walkers. The pretty terraced rose garden with its fountains is popular for weekend wed­dings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00.

KLIPRIVIERSBERG NATURE RESERVE This extensive nature reserve with a river running through it is situated less than 20km south of downtown Joburg and is a popular city escape. Herds of impala and other antelope roam the hillsides and there are sign-posted trails leading through the bush for dozens of kilometres. After your walk head to the Thaba Eco Hotel which overlooks the reserve for refreshments.QFrandaph Dr, Mondeor, tel. +27 82 458 28 16, klipriviersberg.org.za. Open from sunrise until sunset.

MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE A nature reserve and heritage site, the Melville Koppies boasts archaeological remains of Stone Age and Iron Age settle­ments, abundant indigenous vegetation and great views over the city. The best way to visit is on one of the social guided walking tours which leave every weekend and provide insights into the area’s unique and precious ecosystem.QCnr Judith Rd and Orange Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, mk.org.za. Open 08:00–19:00. Tours cost R50, kids R20.

MODDERFONTEIN RESERVE This peaceful privately managed 275-hectare reserve is crisscrossed by hiking and cycling trails and hosts a 5km Parkrun every Saturday morning. There are braai stands next to the reserve’s main dam, four cycling routes ranging from 10km to 40km and an 8km hiking trail complemented by shorter walks that skirt the reserve’s wetland areas. A 20-minute drive from O.R. Tambo airport and 30 minutes from central Sandton.QArden Rd (off Ardeer Rd), Modfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, Roodepoort derfontein, tel. +27 79 519 1589, modderfonteinreserve. co.za. Open 06:00–18:00. Admission R30, kids R15.

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of the most beautiful and well-maintained parks in the region, head here for stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching (look out for the black eagles), waterfalls and other natural delights. There are various hiking routes (the longest is 5km) skirting around the park’s waterfall as well as large lawns for picnics. Approximately 40 minutes drive from central Sandton.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu.

Open 08:00–17:00. Admission R45, students and pensioners R30, scholars R15. Kids under 6 free.

OUTDOOR SPORTS RUNNING CLUBS Joburg has an enthusiastic running community summer through winter. The biggest dangers for runners in this city are cars and uncovered manholes. If you are unfamiliar with the streets it can be best to hit the road with a group.

Fortunately there are plenty of clubs with weekly time trials where you don’t need to be a member to join in.

Sociable running clubs with weekly runs include the Pirates Sports Club (Thu at 17:45 and Sun at 07:00, 10km or 21km, 25 Braeside St, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 5025, piratesclub.co.za) and The Wanderers Club (Thu at 17:45, 5km or 8km, 21 North St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 5010, thewanderersclub.co.za). There are also weekly 5km Parkrun events held every Saturday at 08:00 at parks and nature reserves around the city including at Modderfontein Nature Reserve and Delta Park. See parkrun.co.za for the full list of participating parks.

Joburgers participate in sport all year round and there are plenty of options for keeping yourself busy outdoors. For our guides to cycling, yoga, adventure sports and golf see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

May – August 2017 49

Street art

Art neighbourhood

ROSEBANK

TALKING WALLS

Walk your way to the city’s top art galleries situated along a 1.6km stretch of a major thoroughfare, Jan Smuts Avenue, that links the suburb of Rosebank to Parkwood.

Bonobo mural by Veronika, corner Monmouth Road and 2nd Avenue, Westdene

While there are those who dismiss graffiti as a public blight and associate the practice with disintegrating neighbourhoods and social ills, in Joburg the spread of graffiti has played a role in the city’s upliftment.

In the city centre and neighbourhoods of Braamfontein, Newtown and Maboneng, the wall paintings by local and international artists enliven spaces, create reasons to pause along busy streets and add colour to the concrete cityscape.

Many of the large-scale pieces have been commissioned as part of different projects and festivals that celebrate this urban art. They also serve the purpose of creating beauty amid the billboards and advertising hoardings that blare commercial messages at passersby.

Joburg boasts a thriving graffiti artist network and culture across the city and many works are collaborations created by graffii crews. There is a dedicated gallery, Grayscale in Braamfontein, and two annual festivals that celebrate this art form. The City of Gold Festival, usually held in October, brings international artists to work alongside locals, while hip hop festival Back to the City literally takes over Newtown on April 27 each year and leaves many new artworks on the specially decommissioned highway pillars.

The pieces are often playful, from Mars’ intricately coloured tags to the pointed references to the city’s missing wildlife.

A standout is Ricky Lee Gordon’s (aka Freddy Sam) 40-metre-high mural of Nelson Mandela (cnr Staib St and Beacon Rd, Maboneng) completed shortly after Mandela’s 50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

death. It was inspired by a photograph of a young Mandela boxing on the rooftop of a city block, taken by Drum magazine photographer Bob Gosani in the 1950s. The same photo inspired Marco Cianfanelli’s Shadow Boxing sculpture on Fox Street opposite Mandela’s law practice.

On the eastern side of the city, the development of Maboneng, a lifestyle neighbourhood with its live, work and play ethos, has at every step encouraged artists to put their mark on the large canvases of the cityscape. In fact the neighbourhood’s developers have offered many artists residencies in exchange for public artworks.

While some graffiti artists are hooded figures taking their chances with an angry spray can, this is more the exception than the rule. And even celebrated fine artists like Nelson Makamo whose artworks fetch gallery prices have been lured onto the streets to use the walls as a canvas.

You can see his work along Van Beek Street in Maboneng.

And it’s not just the city that has a taste for these works.

In the suburb of Westdene a neighbourhood project has seen more than 40 murals commissioned on the exterior walls of private homes. The walls of Kliptown in Soweto are covered in work by international artists and even upmarket Rosebank with its swanky malls, top art galleries and corporate offices has succumbed with the arrival of a massive elephant mural on a previously neglected corner painted by UK-born artist Sonny. You’ll need to drive or walk along Bolton Avenue towards Jan Smuts Avenue for the best view. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Start your exploration of the area’s art galleries at Keyes Art Mile on the corner of Jellicoe and Keyes Avenues, a 10-minute walk from the Rosebank Gautrain Station and Rosebank Mall. On the corner is the architectural landmark Circa Gallery with its circular structure and metal fins reaching into the sky, and on the opposite side of the street is sister gallery Everard Read. Follow the spiral walkway up to Circa’s main exhibition space and don’t leave without seeing the rooftop terrace with its superb views. Both galleries showcase contemporary paintings and sculpture. Names to look out for include Wayne Barker, Deborah Bell, Lionel Smit and Colbert Mashile. Next to Circa is Keyes Art Mile’s Trumpet building, another impressive landmark housing exclusive design boutiques, galleries and cafés. On the upper floors you’ll find the exclusive cocktail bar 4PM at Mesh (see Nightlife) and Marble restaurant (see Where to Eat). At the centre of the building is a vast atrium used for temporary installations. Contemporary galleries SMAC Gallery and Whatiftheworld are on the first floor.

Two city blocks from Keyes Art Mile at the corner of Bolton Road and Jan Smuts Avenue is the start of Art Gallery Row, with more than half a dozen art galleries and studios lined up next to each other. One of the most striking buildings is Goodman Gallery, promoting A-list South African and international artists and photographers the likes of world-renowned William Kentridge, and photo men David Goldblatt and Mikhael Subotzky. A few doors up behind a peacock-blue wall is the superb David Krut Bookstore with its fine collection of art books. It shares space with Hadeda, a colourful gift shop filled with homeware treasures from Mexico. Next door is fine art gallery Lizamore & Associates and a little further up the street Kim Sacks Gallery, specialising in ceramics, authentic African artefacts and fine beadwork pieces.

Facing Goodman Gallery on the opposite side of Jan Smuts Avenue is Bolton Road Collection, a stylish café, restaurant and bar – the perfect pit stop on your art walk.

Yet more galleries await along this strip including Res Gallery with its provocative photography exhibitions, Gallery 2 for fine art and painting and David Krut Projects, Joburg’s best-known print-making gallery and art book publisher.

Between them is Priest Espresso Bar, with its eye-catching feature wall by artist Peter Mammes and a small exhibition space in the back. Also in the area is Gallery MOMO, known for its exciting exhibitions by contemporary African artists.

Art openings generally happen on Thursday nights with walkabouts scheduled on Saturdays and on the First Thursday of every month Keyes Art Mile hosts its famous street party. See our What’s on pages for details on upcoming exhibitions and check out our online events guide at iyp.me/johannesburg/events. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Keyes Art Mile, Rosebank

GALLERY DIRECTORY CIRCA GALLERY AND EVERARD READ 20 and 21 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 11 788 4805, everard-read.co.za, circagallery.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00.

Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT BOOKSTORE 151 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 880 5646, davidkrutprojects.com. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT PROJECTS 142 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 0627, davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY 2 140 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 0155/ +27 11 447 0198, gallery2.co.za. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:00, Sun, Mon by appointment.

GALLERY MOMO 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY 163 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. KIM SACKS GALLERY 153 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–17:00, public holidays 10:00–14:00, Sun by appointment only.

LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATES 155 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 880 8802, lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. SMAC GALLERY 19 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 10 594 5400, smacgallery.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00.

Closed Sun. WHATIFTHEWORLD & SOUTHERN GUILD 19 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 10 594 5062, whatiftheworld.com. Open 09:30–17:00, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. May – August 2017 51

Sightseeing: Soweto

Sightseeing: Soweto WHAT TO SEE

Soweto style In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive.

Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for selfcatering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, fireside-storytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows made with fresh bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Andile Bhala SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel, with strong local community ties, looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955. End your day here with a Kliptini cocktail at the elegant Jazz Maniacs restaurant.

QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

TOURS LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a mustdo (a tuk-tuk tour will suit the less athletic). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and local delicacies. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers.com.

Bicycle tours from R470, tuk-tuk tours from R430.

BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours of Soweto’s wetland areas. An avid conservationist Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. Tours are on foot or by bike. Historical and cultural tours are also available.

QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R450.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, a poor neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail.com. Tours from R250. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

VILAKAZI STREET The most famous street in Soweto lays claim to two Nobel prize-winning residents: Nelson Mandela (who lived here in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and his modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. A tourism hub and popular hangout for middle-class Sowetans, the street is lined with busy restaurants (look our for Restaurant Vilakazi, a good breakfast and lunch stop, Sakhumzi for typical meaty township fare – there’s an a la carte menu for the less adventurous – and Vuyos for modern African cuisine) and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes.

You’ll also find streetside stalls selling local crafts and souvenirs. At the top of Vilakazi Street is The Box Shop (71667176 Vilakazi St), an eye-catching cube built from shipping containers, that houses a clothing boutique and Kofi (kofishop.co.za), Soweto’s first coffee roasters. The excellent Hector Pieterson Museum is a short walk from here.

HECTOR PIETERSON MUSEUM AND MEMORIAL This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best.

Startling photography, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising and in particular the terrible events of June 16 when scores of protesting schoolchildren were killed by the police. Note that no cameras are allowed inside the museum.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 536 0611.

Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, kids (13 years and above) R10.

KLIPTOWN MUSEUM This often overlooked museum next to the upmarket Soweto Hotel brings the story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People to life. Creative displays detail the increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced under apartheid, as well as the peaceful efforts made by people from all walks of life to lobby for a free and democratic South Africa.QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union St and Main Rd, Kliptown, Soweto, tel +27 11 945 2200.

Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

NELSON MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Nelson Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house with his second wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s. The house has been considerably altered to turn it into a museum.

The small rooms are filled with memorabilia including letters, gifts and awards, as well as some original items of furniture. A visit will not take much more than 15 minutes.Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 936 7754. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R60 (African Union citizens R40), kids (over 6 years) R20, kids (under 6 years) R5.

ORLANDO TOWERS These two huge mural-covered cooling towers are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark and a magnet for thrill seekers. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Bungee, swing or SCAD Fall and then catch your breath at Chaf Pozi beer garden and shisa nyama (traditional South African barbecue) restaurant next door. A popular weekend party spot with DJs playing everything from township jazz to hip-hop, reservations are recommended.QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset or by prior arrangement. Chaf Pozi tel. +27 11 463 8895, chafpozi.co.za. Open Wed, Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. EB REGINA MUNDI CHURCH Rockville’s Catholic church, built in 1964, played a significant role in the anti-apartheid struggle and has the bullet holes to prove it. Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu presided over the Truth and Reconciliation Commission hearings here (1995-1998). South Africa largest Catholic Church, it accommodates 2,000 people sitting or 5,000 standing.

Located next to Thokoza Park, a popular weekend picnic location.Q1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville, Soweto, tel +27 11 986 2546. Open 09:00–17:00.

Sunday services 07:00, 09:00. Admission R20.

UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN Home of Soweto Gold craft beer, tour the brewery before heading to the beer garden for a tasting and to sample the gourmet township grill menu.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext., Soweto, tel. +27 74 738 0355, sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. May – August 2017 53

Sightseeing: Soweto MY SOWETO: ANDILE BHALA Born and raised in Soweto Andile Bhala, known as ‘the man with the red bag’, is a self-taught documentary and street photographer. He made it his quest to ride 150km around Soweto in search of 150 great photos. Follow him on Instagram at @may_i_take_apicture.

“I’m a photographer ... inspired by the raw and gritty lives of township people. My work is mostly about everyday people, streets, lifestyle, fashion, creatives and youth culture. I’ve always seen things in a different way and found it easy to project that through photography.

Mostly I love portraits because you get to connect with the subject.

“My favourite suburb ... is Orlando West because that’s where I was born and where most legends were born and I believe we still have a lot of unsung heroes.

“Three places you shouldn’t leave without visiting ... are The Soweto Equestrian Centre, Credo Mutwa Village and the Box Shop in Vilakazi Street (see p. 53).

“The one word you won’t hear people call Soweto… is boring. Soweto is one of the biggest townships in the country. When it sneezes the whole of SA catches the flu, although Soweto is yet to make the jump from tourist attraction to South Africa’ s economic hub.

“The taste of Soweto is ... braaied meat, inyama yenhloko (cow’s head and pap) and mogodu (tripe).

“My favourite moments as a photographer are… when kids run to me asking if I’m a journalist or tourist and shout at me to get off my bike and take their photos.”

Shopping CREDO MUTWA CULTURAL VILLAGE Located in Oppenheimer Park the quirky Credo Mutwa village is a unique representation of African mythology.

Mutwa, a traditional healer and sculptor, built the village in the 1970s and it is now looked after by a passionate caretaker who will happily explain the complex meanings behind Mutwa’s mystical and prophetic sculptures.

Enjoy a panoramic view of the entire township by climbing the nearby Oppenheimer Tower.Q991 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central, Soweto. Open 06:00–18:00.

THE SOWETO EQUESTRIAN CENTRE Founded by Enos Mafokate, South Africa’s first black show jumper and an internationally acclaimed horse rider, the centre operates as a non-profit riding school with the dual aim of improving the welfare of Soweto’s cart horses and opening up the world of horse riding to the less privileged and in particular to children with disabilities. The centre caters to beginners and experienced riders and also offers a carriage ride around Soweto.Q1679 Vundla Dr, Moroka, Soweto, tel. +27 11 071 1273, sowetoequestrian.co.za.

Church boys in Soweto

Andile Bhala

Amatuli Artefacts, Kramerville

TOP 10 WAYS TO SHOP From global luxury brands to gold and sparkling diamonds, international high street to South African designer-made labels, contemporary art and design, homeware items to safari essentials Joburg is Africa’s shopping capital. Here are some ideas on what to buy and where to find it.

 BEEN THERE, GOT THE T-SHIRT A witty T-shirt is always a great souvenir. Try local brands Love Jozi (at 44 Stanley, Milpark, lovejozi.co.za), Iwasshot in Joburg (in Maboneng or Rosebank Mall, iwasshot.com) or Krag Drag (at 27 Boxes, Melville, 27Boxes.co.za) for fun and unique items.

SOWETO MAP

 BARGAIN HUNTING AT ORIENTAL PLAZA

 VISIT A WEEKEND MARKET Hanging out at weekend market is a favourite Joburg pastime. Here you’ll find great food, crafted goods, vintage clothing and must-have souvenirs. There's a an array of hipster markets and more traditional counterparts to choose from. See p. 58 for our pick of the best.

 LUXURY Whether your tastes run to Dolce & Gabbana or Louis Vuitton, or you are looking for something unique and Africanmade, shopping in Joburg has plenty to please big budgets.

 AFRICAN ARTS AND CRAFTS

 SAFARI AND HIKING ESSENTIALS

 HIGH STREET SHOPPING

Rosebank Mall (conveniently located next to a Gautrain station) has an excellent selection of high street stores plus a superb bookshop and cinema complex. Choose from a wide selection of open-air cafés or take the kids to the food court at neighbouring the Zone@Rosebank. For luxury labels galore and Joburg’s biggest mall there’s Sandton City, which adjoins the popular Nelson Mandela Square, piazza, another popular shopping and leisure destination.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

For unique fashion, local designer labels, jewellery and home accessories shop at a boutique shopping centre. In Milpark 44 Stanley’s olive tree-lined courtyards are filled with boutique stores, while the whole family will love Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes, built from shipping containers jam-packed with locally made goods and plenty of delicious food stops.

For a different pace to the northern suburbs malls this thriving bazaar in the traditionally Indian neighbourhood of Fordsburg is the place to shop for a dazzling array of colourful fabrics, sari silks, wedding wear, jewellery, shoes and casual fashion at unbeatable prices. Also the place to buy Converse sneakers.

At the Rosebank Art and Craft Market and Bryanston Organic Market you’ll find the biggest selection of handcrafted souvenirs such as wooden figurines, colourful bead and wire sculptures, stone-carved ornaments, traditional jewellery, enamelware, vibrant printed fabrics and the most spotted souvenir in the check-in area for international departures at OR Tambo international airport, the carved wooden giraffe.

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

 GO BOUTIQUE SHOPPING

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

For outdoor essentials South African chain Cape Union Mart (branches in Rosebank Mall and Sandton City) specialises in camping and outdoor gear. To really look the part when out on safari invest in luxurious vintage-inspired accessories such as a hand-stitched leather bird guide holder from Melvill and Moon.

 PICK UP SOME LOCAL LITERATURE South Africa has a thriving literary scene. To get to know the place browse the shelves for local authors and make yourself comfortable with a good coffee at one of Joburg’s many bookshop-cafés See p. 26 for our guide to the best.

 DIAMONDS AND GOLD Joburg was established on the back of the biggest gold rush in 1886. Diamonds are, of course, forever and tanzanite is another precious African stone that deserves a place in your jewellery box.

May – August 2017 55

Shopping

Maxhosa by Laduma, Work Shop New Town, Newtown

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES AMATULI ARTEFACTS One of the most long-established suppliers of unique and original African artefacts and objets d’art. This aweinspiring showroom is filled with collectable items such as central African Kuba cloths, west African barbershop signs, Zanzibari doors and Yoruba beaded chairs, among many other items of curiosity.Q6 Desmond St, Kramerville, Sandton, tel. +27 11 440 5065, amatuli.co.za. Open 08:30–17:30, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

COLLECTOR’S TREASURY For browsers and bibliophiles it doesn’t get much better than this. Spread across several floors of an inner-city block, this is the largest used and rare bookshop in Africa with some two million items, including ceramics, maps and other bric-a-brac, heaped along shelves, staircases and any other surface that will hold them.QF‑4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun.

LOVE JOZI An innovative homegrown T-shirt and homeware accessory brand that mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, finding design inspiration in optimism about the rise of Joburg as a world city. Products can be ordered online.

Q44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9148, lovejozi.co.za. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

KRAG DRAG A fun clothing and gift store that gives iconic brands a cheeky twist. Pick up an ‘Amazulu’ T-shirt (a play on global giant Amazon), a Smartie pants Babygro or a leopard-print pair of Dr. Indonya boxers. The store also stocks a colourful selection of retro-inspired cushion covers, tea trays, slippers, bags and other gift items.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Wed 10:00– 21:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon.

FIREHOUSE Supporting local enterprise and Fair Trade businesses this store (tucked behind the popular Fournos Bakery) stocks fine linen, ceramics, tableware, costume jewellery and homewares from essentials to luxury gifts. Their gift wrapping is also exceptional.QK‑11, 6 Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2225, fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun.

MAKOTIS Makotis (‘bride’ in Zulu) is run by the Wadee family who have been selling traditional fabrics and bespoke garments since 1961. At the sister store to the original shop in the fashion district (112 Helen Joseph St), you can browse for bold printed shweshwe fabrics in the biggest range of colours and prints.QG‑5, Revolution House, cnr Kruger St and Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 10 900 4158, makotis.co.za. Open 10:30–16:00 (Fri closed between 12:30–14:00). Closed Mon.

IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of this innova­ tive photography collective of young men formerly from a children’s shelter. Their images of the city decorate walls, notebooks and other items, and make great gifts.QG‑5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Also at Rosebank Mall.

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Both Italian Vogue and Beyoncé are fans of this unique knitwear range founded in 2010 by Laduma Ngxokolo. Inspired

by Xhosa manhood rituals, Ngxokolo uses vibrant coloured geometric patterns from this rich culture in his contemporary designs, with each piece making a statement.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, 100 Carr St, Newtown, maxhosa. co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping MARKETS Head to one or more of Joburg’s many markets to mingle with locals, eat tasty food, sample craft beer, shop or keep the whole family entertained. With each offering different attractions, there’s something for every taste.

27 BOXES NIGHT MARKET This weekly night market at Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes centre brings together fashion, craft and unique design courtesy of the many boutiques and pop-up stores, plus a great choice of tasty dinner options from the centre’s cute cafés and food stalls serving an ever-changing choice of cuisines such as Thai spring rolls, Congolese grilled fish and decadent cronuts.Q75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Every Wed 17:00–21:00.

BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, organic and preservative-free homebaked goods, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight. The market’s free shuttle picks up visitors at all the major Sandton hotels, with a return trip via Liliesleaf museum. See website for details.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket. co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

FOURWAYS FARMER’S MARKET A chilled Sunday lunch spot in a rustic setting that feels like it’s in the countryside, but is actually just a street away from the brash Montecasino casino complex. Live folk bands and a child-friendly environment with lots of tasty lunch treats on offer.QEarth Outdoor Living Nursery, cnr William Nicol Dr and Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 465 0877, ffmarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–14:00.

Shopping MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls and a sunny courtyard plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market, that spills out onto the surrounding streets, an addictive Sunday destination.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za.

Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET This one-stop spot has the widest range of African souvenirs with traders from across the continent selling handcrafted items such as beaded sculptures, West African masks and quintessential Big Five figurines. ‘This is Africa.

We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QK-12, Rosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00– 19:00, Sat, Sun, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Taking up a large covered rooftop space this market brings together a wide range of talented crafters offering everything from wood carved kid’s toys to vintage picture frames. There’s also a wide choice of clothing stalls selling vintage and contemporary fashion. Don’t leave without eating from the food stalls – look out for the homemade falafel and hummus from King Arabic Sandwich. Flea market enthusiasts will enjoy the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.QK-12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7820 rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

Market on Main, Maboneng

MALLS ORIENTAL PLAZA Head to this thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jewelled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions.QA-4/5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers.

ROSEBANK MALL The heart of Rosebank’s shopping precinct, this mall has more than 150 stores including an impressive array of local and international high-street brands, plus an arthouse cinema. Stock up on camping and safari essentials at Cape Union Mart and local literature at Exclusive Books. There is a choice of supermarkets and pharmacies plus two popular markets (see opp.).QK-12, Entrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 27 11 788 5530, rosebankmall.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

SANDTON CITY & NELSON MANDELA SQUARE Known as ‘Africa’s richest square mile’, central Sandton is the country’s financial capital and a shopping mecca, made up of Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square. There are literally hundreds of shops including the flagship stores of

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

major local and international fashion, sports and design brands, plus department stores, a cinema multiplex, a food court, supermarkets, cafés and restaurants.QL-9, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 27 BOXES Built from shipping containers 27 Boxes reflects Bohemian Melville’s love for local brands. The centre is home to dozens of small businesses, among them fashion boutiques, gift shops, and a number of pop-up stores. The hungry will be spoilt for choice. Visit the steampunk-styled restaurant The Countess.Q76 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 09:00– 17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Night market Wed 17:00–21:00.

44 STANLEY This charming converted 1930s industrial complex is filled with boutiques and cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees. Look out for local designer labels Lunar, Guillotine and Black Coffee. There’s also a super collection of vintage clothing stops, Bean There’s excellent coffee, Lady Bonin’s exclusive teas and divine Belgian chocolate store Chocoloza.Q44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

May – August 2017 59

Joburg Basics

Shopping LUXURY SHOPPING

SAFARI ESSENTIALS CAPE UNION MART For camping and safari essentials such as torches, binoculars, first aid kits, plug adaptors, solar powered gadgets and hiking gear you can’t beat Cape Union Mart which has branches in Sandton City and Rosebank Mall.QRosebank Mall, tel. +27 11 442 1959, Sandton City tel. +27 11 884 9771, capeunionmart.co.za.

Avoova African Originals, Westcliff AVOOVA AFRICAN ORIGINALS Located in one of Joburg’s most luxurious hotels is the enticing Avoova with its fine range of exquisite hand-crafted decor items and gifts, including Avoova’s ostrich egg jewellery, silk scarves by L’Mad, homeware and accessories, Masai beaded dog collars

by Seringa, and beautifully packaged exotic blends of African loose-leaf teas by Yswara.QFour Seasons The Westcliff Hotel, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6220, avoova.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

COLLECTIVE BY CHARLES GREIG This sister store to Charles Greig Jewellers in Hyde Park stocks an exquisite range of contemporary luxury items, from Kenyan designer Anna Trzebinski’s hand-made feathered pashminas to one-of-a-kind jewelled pieces, leather goods and Africology spa products. A treasure trove of beautiful items.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 9393, collectiveafrica. co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

MELVILL AND MOON Safari addicts wanting to up their game may want to treat themselves to the luxurious range of hand-stitched leather accessories, inspired by 19th-Century colonial designs, made

by Melvill and Moon. The Serengeti Sundowner, a beautiful leather tote that neatly stores six wine glasses, is one of their most beautiful and practical items.Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 11 262 5030, melvillandmoon.com.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

24-HOUR CITY

BOOKS Visit independent bookshops Love Books in Melville and Bridge Books in the City Centre or hang out at the Exclusive Books stores in Rosebank Mall or Hyde Park Corner (see Bookish Retreats on p. 26 for more). Alternatively rummage through the titles at the legendary Collector’s Treasury (see Cool and Quirky stores on p. 56). In Orange Grove you can also find an excellent range of second-hand titles (there are reportedly more than 70,000 books), along with attentive and friendly service and comfortable armchairs at Kalahari Books (The Garret, Tuxedo Junction, 2 Dunottar St, Orange Grove, tel. +27 82 678 8619, kalaharibooks.co.za. Open 09:30–16:30. Closed Mon).

DIAMONDS AND GOLD

DIAMOND WALK AT SANDTON CITY The place to visit for the largest collection of coveted international luxury labels to be found in Joburg including leading names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

There’s also a conveniently located champagne bar.

QL-9, Sandton City, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity. com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

There are plenty of places to pick up fabulous jewellery and precious stones. At Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square you can find all the biggest jewellery brands such as Sterns, Browns and Shimansky, while the Oriental Plaza has a reputation as a fair-priced jewellery destination. For superb personalised service make an appointment at the plush and secure Sandton jewel boutique Bryllianta specialising in diamonds and tanzanite (Tel. +27 11 784 7867, bryllianta.co.za).

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE This spacious mall links to Sandton City and is built around an open piazza flanked by restaurants. Top luxury labels to look out for include Lorenzi’s handmade leather goods, crafted using brightly coloured exotic leathers, luxury department store Luminance and Shimansky for glittering diamond jewellery.QL-9, entrance on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

NORMAN GOODFELLOWS Not just another bottle store, Norman Goodfellows has been around for 40 years and specialises in expert advice and service and stocks the broadest range of local and imported alcohol brands. Nowhere in Joburg can boast a better selection of top South African and international wine labels, craft spirits and craft beers. There are also branches at Melrose Arch and at the Sandton Gautrain Interchange (cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton Central).QL-11, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 10 140 4888, ngf.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, Closed Sun.

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Angel of the North by Winston Luthuli, Hillbrow

WINE & SPIRITS

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

ALCOHOL Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants will allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. Different provinces have different rules regulating the sale of alcohol at retail stores. Generally speaking you can’t buy booze in a store after 15:00 on a Sunday and most bottle stores close by 17:00 on other days. The legal drinking age is 18. If driving be aware that the legal alcohol limit for being behind the wheel is very low; less than 0.05g per 100ml (blood) or less than 0.24mg in 1 000ml of breath (this amounts to about two drinks over the space of 75 minutes).

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Forfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Justin Lee eign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joeys, City of Gold PROVINCE Joburg is in Gauteng province ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius May – August 2017 61

Joburg Basics

62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and almost all big shopping malls are open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Branches of the South African Post Office can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

N1

Cradle of Humankind (28km) – NW Lanseria (47km) – NW Pretoria (59km) – NE Sun City (128km) – NW Kruger Park (495km) – E Durban (568km) – SE Cape Town (1,397km) – SW

FOURWAYS

BRYANSTON

SANDTON CENTRE

PARKHURST

GREENSIDE

PARKVIEW MELVILLE AUCKLAND PARK 44 STANLEY AVE

ALEXANDRA

Ri ILLOVO

HYDE PARK

PARKTOWN NORTH

Sisulu Rd

N

M1

LINDEN

Alb ert ina

p

N1

Distances calculated from city centre

EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card. From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) to be connected to a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the service closest to you. You can also call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services (toll-free call from a landline, cellphones charged at normal rates). For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

POSTAGE

vo n ia R d

Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions).

If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, All text added in InDesign security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

Rd

TRAVEL TIPS

TIPPING

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

MELROSE ROSEBANK

N3

Oxford

There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Easter Monday Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

r

CELLPHONES AND SIM CARDS

January 1 March 21 April 14 April 17 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

lD

DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). Numbers starting 086 can only be dialled from within South Africa. For directory enquiries dial 1023.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa.

LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life.

POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system.

The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC).

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory).

SMOKING Smoking is banned in public places and despite it carrying a R500 penalty you will find people smoking on terraces and in doorways of bars and restaurants. Look out for specially designated smoking areas. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (joburgtourism.com), Gauteng Tourism (gauteng.net) and Sandton Tourism (sandtontourism.com).

VAT A tax of 14 percent is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (taxrefunds.co.za).

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325 or +27 82 443 5366, emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QK-12, Netcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, tel. +27 11 806 1500.

m Nic Willia

NEED TO KNOW

MEDICAL CARE

Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs.

Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

Jan Sm ts u Ave

Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cigarettes R40–R50 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R12–R14 Loaf of bread R10–R12 Local beer (in a bar) R22–R28

CLIMATE

o

LOCAL PRICES

Joburg Basics

R24

NEW CHINATOWN PARKTOWN BRAAMFONTEIN

FORDSBURG NEWTOWN MABONENG OLD CHINATOWN CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT M2

ghway Soweto Hi

SOWETO

Chris H

ani Rd Golden Highway

Old

N12

d Potc hefstroom R

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket joburg-map 21Apr.indd 1

S

q

JOBURG NEIGHBOURHOODS May – August 2017 2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM

63

St y tz ro Fi St Erin

am

t

sS

Pr ce s

m

St

el in a

St

St

ie

dr s

rt

fo

St

St

Karl St

Gus St

ive

JEPPESTOWN Park St

5

Cresc

ent

NEW CHINATOWN (7km) OR TAMBO AIRPORT (20km) KASERNE

G

H

6 M2

Ford St

Janie St

Gus St

F

Droste

Mordaunt

ns St St Ha

4

t Janie S

Dr

i

ilh

e

au

e

nc

e ar

Cl

or

et

W

in

Pr

aw

An

Be

Park St

Rd

D

lu



Jules St

ge

rtr 9

St

Fawcus St

Pa

Madison

n

g St Stephonson St

rpa

Sprinz S

Rd

t

St

n

Be

t

4th

dS

oh

St Macintyre

e mm

Heidelber

School St

We

nP lac e ndo Cla re

bilee

t

Rosettenville St

ens

Dr

t St

t

3r

Betty St

MAI MAI

3

 Auret St

t

le S

k

dS

2n

Par

V

su

Si

3

tS 1s

Ross

St son St

 Ander

Durban St



THE COSMOPOLITAN J

Albrecht St burg St Maritz

 Kruger

Main St

d

Sisulu R

 Fox S 10

Lidd

Upper

St

ARTS ON MAIN

d

t

oys

t ar ew St

Fortesque Rd

Sta

Berea R

St

na

rti

be

Al

Albertina

St

Phillip St

Greene St

Marshall



ut

ho

r oo

ELLIS HOUSE

ib S t

eek

an B

V

con

M

TROYEVILLE

Lo

v

ht A

wrig

St St s on St 5th St St Madis ou k G 6th e e St rb ve 7th St O St ey 8th w St er 9th y V wa ail rR y pe wa St Up ail ngle r R A Lower Page St we  Low er R oss Sta

ib St

Sive

Bea

t

rS

ille

t

Wemmer Ju

E

t

son St

Sou

r St

d

R ourn

Durban S

Melrose St

Salisbury St

ert S

St

St

Main St

t

 Goud

ndis St

Marshall

St



Fox St

th

Erro

2

d

by R

Der

Millb

St

EMIRATES AIRLINE PARK STADIUM ark Lane P

MABONENG

St

Nugget S

Mooi St

Polly St

sioner Commis

St

St 

 Troye

lligh St

Delvers

Von Wei





 End

Sisulu Rd

Albertina

Albert St

JOZIBURG LANE

iem

n St

t

St

St

ph St 

 Ander

t

S

Buxto

vies S

St

 Troye

Delvers

Polly St

lligh St Von Wei

NEW St Pritchard DOORNFONTEIN

St Marshall son St  Ander

Harries S

t

t

Mo

Kerk St

Helen Jose

FASHION KAPITOL

wrig ey S

5 C t harles S sely S

St a Moosa

 Rahim

LITTLE ADDIS

ht A v

St

ll St  End

 Da

Klein St

yi St 

Dora

Sive

Pierse

t St

t Nind S

Heigh

e Sherw

t

St

Curr

Bruyn St rs St

Grafton Rd

Joe Slovo Dr

e Rd



Quartz S

Busway

Bok St

De Villie

CARLTON CENTRE

Kruis St

St

D

Rissik S

St

St

M2

Von Bra

Loveday

ds St

Harrison

Simmon

St

xt

Kay S t Tho rpe St God frey St

Eloff St

t

Maclaren

Ferreira

STANDARD BANK GALLERY

op Tudh

Claim St

ell St

St missioner

RAND CLUB  Com

8

Kruis St



GANDHI SQUARE

t

Beit S

t Rd

o

Asc

DOORNFONTEIN

Leyds St

d

nR

ordo

G

St

Louisa

d

Rd 

ea

Ber

Charlton Terrace

ans St

Sophie de

CITY CENTRE

t  Fox S

v rine A

St

Edith Cav

rge St

Al

v

aA

tog

ra Sa

Plein St 

HIGH COURT

ndis St

Fraser S

sulu Rd bertina Si

Von Bra

Eloff St

St

St

Joubert

Loveday

St 

St

d

Ter

Gordon Terrace

PONTE

eld R

t

rS

R ace

r

rrace

Koch St

St

nte

se Te

Hadfi

ds

lan

h Hig

Hu PONTE

1

Jolly St

Durban Rd

Percy St

ly St O’Reil d ect R p s ro P

Ockerse St

JAG

Hendon

Natal St

South Ln

St Hancock

King Geo

rs St

yi St 

Pritchard

r St Sope

Primro

Lilian Ngo

Lilian Ngo

Village Rd

C

Klein St Wandere

t

Bruyn St

t Villiers S

Kerk St

Harley St

A

Kapteijn St

Plein St Harrison

th Drive

Elizabe

Seme St Kort St

tE

Pa

tM

De

Queen

Ka Isaka

n

es

B

y

wa

axi

aT

th ba

St

Rissik S



Sophie de

idge  Pixley

go

Hall St

Blvd

SOWETO (15km) M2

4

W

Western

Eloff St

St

Harrison St

izabeth Br

PARK STATION

t

S Olivia

H

Page St

YEOVILLE

Minors St

Wolmar

Joubert Park

Dia so St

Ntemi Pili

son St

 Ander MI

St

Park Station Gautrain

LIBRARY SQUARE ph St  Helen Jose GARDENS

Main St

St

oel St

bel St

Esselen Rd

St Hook

t

St Queen El

Leyds St

St 

Smit St 

Smit St 

Loveday

Simmonds

Rissik S

St

7

MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT

CHANCELLOR HOUSE

eba St

St

r St

ft St

all

St Mclngana

sh

ak Miriam M

ar

Hubert St

Sha

Main

eer Rd

M

Alexande

1 FOX PRECINCT

Margaret

FERREIRASDORP

Hospital

Joubert St 

Simmonds

St

Rd 

so St

Sisulu

St

al S t

a lbertin

Ntemi Pili

Helen Joseph St 

A

Rd Reef

a Moosa

koto St Gerard Se

SCI BONO

ClareRd

y Rd

koto St

ulu Rd

Simon St



Albertina Sis

Gwi

MARY FITZGERALD SQUARE NEWTOWN

Pine Ave

ORIENTAL PLAZA

Gerard Se

Barney

hebe Rd

i St gwi Mrweb

 Rahim

St

ORIENTAL PLAZA

i St 

Lilian Ngoy

Quinn

Lilian Rd

Central Rd

FORDSBURG

MARKET THEATRE

akeba St

Miriam M

rwebi St

Gwigwi M

A

Biccard St

 Melle

St

t



Carr St

Dolly Rat

mercial Rd

Carr St 2

HILLBROW

De Korte

ans St

 Wolmar

MI

High Rd

4

St

NELSON MANDELA BRIDGE

CITY CENTRE MAP

6

St

De Beer

1

De Korte 6

Smit St 

Smit St 

5

St

Juta St 

t

Henri St

ht St Eendrac

3



Bertha S

Jorissen St

Station S

ORIGINS CENTRE

Rd Yale

10 Curiocity Pads G5

WAM

JOBURG THEATRE

Biccard

Stiemens

7 Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite D3 8 Reef Hotel D5 e ntonga Av Enoch So 9 The Troyeville Hotel H4

St

Ameshoff

5 Hallmark House Hotel F4

Kotze St

y St

BRAAMFONTEIN

4 Fair City Mapungubwe Hotel C5 6 Once in Joburg C3

ntain Rd

Hoofd St

erwe St

M Van der Pretoria

t

ndra S

Alexa

J

t St

Curiocity Backpackers G5

 Barn

HILLBROW TOWER

St

Goldreich

 Twist

3

Rd

 Kotze

Hoofd St 

 Loveda

City Lodge Hotel Newtown B4

Ave

The Bannister Hotel C3

2

muts

1

Caroline

 Banke

Jan S

Joubert St

CONSTITUTION HILL



Cathe

WITS UNIVERSITY

Hotels and Hostels

2

Sam Hancock St

Bruce St

Becker St

Saunders St 

t ato S

v Fife A

MI

G

s St

 Dori

 Webb St

Empire Rd

Empire Rd

WITS UNIVERSITY WEST CAMPUS

P

ice St

1

SANDTON (15km) ROSEBANK (6km)

F

ne ark La

Beatr

MELVILLE (4km) 44 STANLEY (2.5km)

E

Kenmere Rd

e Rd

D

Bez uide nho ut S t

Empir

C

Cornelius St

B

Bo

A

le R d

Rd

D

kP

l

Rd

i sy

ve

We st w d. A ve A ve

St

iel d

us

ng f

d

ro

Rd

Lin

st

tr i

ll o

wA

ve

10

ll Rd

C op l

Gr eg

L au

ve or y A

ve

M e lr o

ug

Park R d t St

F or

Sun

K e r ni c k A

ey A

D e s bo r o

n ys

i de R

d

Melrose Arch

11

ra L n

James & Ethel Gray Park se S t

M1

3rd S t 2 nd S

1st S

s

Gle

ve nho

Pa

Ea E a st A v e

Wi

T

Wi

V en

n A ve

D e lta Rd

th R

St

t eS

den

l low

Wi y Rd

S ou

A ve

S

r Rd Frick e se

St

b oo

Da

ve

Ha

d

ia R

on Riv

M e l vi l l e R d

Tweedale Rd

Ox

fo

rd

Rd

e

Av ck

ddo

Cra

P ret oria A

d wR

rr o

ve

dA for Ox

4th R d

d

hR

5t Rd on

e rs

op h

ri s t Ch Ke y e s

as t

ve E 1 st A

Av e

2 nd

Rd

n

eL ic Al

Pl

ew 9 th R d

Rd Ave

Ru t h Av e

3rd Av e

Mi dd

d So u th W est R

nia

ve ia A t or

Vic

nd

ela ev Cl

St

d nR

xo

Sa

Rivo

e Rd

mor

Ben

e

Av ia n

Lil

Rd

e Av

r ie e

Av

te

Bu

6 th

Portland Ave

Ave

ve

rs et Rd

Bo lto n Rd

P ro te a A v e

ve

V ir

ss A

ve

rl a nd Ave

Kinro

Hamilt

S u th e

on A ve

e Av ce

en Cl ar 4th

3rd Av e

Ave

4 t h Ave

Ro

The Zone @Rosebank Rosebank Gautrain el M Rosebank r St Mall

Rosebank

t ra l A

da r

h St

ve

I lk l e y R

Hig

a nn A

9

e

Bier m

Melrose

Ave h i tt yrw

F ro

a

er Av

e coe Av

ar

o o d Av e

Rd

Ave

Rd

nd

r

N o r th S t

Cecil Ave

Jelli

Bak e

B ou

Bidvest Wanderers Stadium

lett D

d

se B l vd

Cor

Bath

Do

Ch es ter Rd

Wanderers Golf Club

os e A v e

oo d

rd

Edg e w

st w

Keyes Art Mile ve Ty r w h i t t A

7 th Av e

Rd

aR ci

R iv ersi d e R

s Rd

Dunkeld

an k

Wi e

Ce

At ho

W r en r

Ea

se b

Rd

Ce n

Ave

Ro

St

t

Atholl

st For e

r

P o rt

Rd

the

Ir e n e R d

Bo Hu rl i mp ngh as am Rd Rd

Rd

es

st We

Illovo

Otto

n Ave

8t h A v e

d

R e f orm

A ve

th R

Ka

W

e rin

Inanda Polo Club

Inanda

Victoria

eW

Quart

e

Av gin

ia A

pi a

ym Ol

Ca w d

Ma

ve

le A

o r Av e

ve

rli s

A rb

ro a

Ca

th A

don ald

ll Mac M ax w e

ng ham

V

11

nD

Mushroom Farm Park

ll a

l Oakland s R d

d

8

At ho l

R

sto

ve

2nd A

Rd

Str

ss A

nt

e Ave

Parktown North

5th Ave

in

Jameso

1 2 th

ve

8th Ave

ul

d

Har rie

ay

C ro

its

Ke

S tu r d e

1 st Av

ala

d Rd

Sm

h Rd

R

tR

Rd

ve

Av e

Im p

R ud

Hugh Wyndham Park Hume Rd

ve

ve

ari e

Rd

hA

hA

hA

r la n dA ve hA ve

Rd

lm

13t

sim

1s

N or t

m n S uts Ave

the

ve

or

Hyde Park

Ja

Su

rgh e A

M

rd a

5t h A

Hyde Park Corner

Ave

e

Wie

Av e

r

Ste

Sandton Gautrain

ve

ter D

St

l

Ave

in is

Northumberland

3rd Av

eP

ude

Nelson Mandela Square Sandton City

p ir

Gr

Sandton Central St

2n d

Bucki

a rd

e

Av

d

nR

gg o

Wa

R

St

d en Lin G ard en R d

ia t ri c Pa

ve

est A

H i l lcr

Em

Dr

ve

stm

N o rfo lk A ve

ve

d

Car

We

r

e

4th A

Rd

ve

D ger ru

Av

ve

dR

a

4th A

Sandhurst

an

Gerha

St

to

Ea s t Av e

ve

Rd

d

Dr ple Ma ve Oa k A

Pr eto ria A

t

3 rd

Pr o te a Av e

tS

F

e Ln

m re d

Ma

St

1 st A

ay A

ge

d

on

es

Bu t

r

id av

e St

ba r

2n

r n ey

Be

Main R

a ti

o

W

enn

D um

Rd

r on

ys t

in D

St

Co

th R

Pl

nia

l

ra

ve

rid

r Dr

Ln

Rd

mb

Fisch e

eP

ry

5 th

3 rd

Ca

Braam

pir

da

G

e ns t e

A dol f S t

St

N or

6 t h Av e

vo

Em

un

d

4th A

Ri

is e

L ou Ch arl All es en Rd Ma dl. R t t ie d Av e

S

oo

C

W

l kP

boo llow Wi

t

M

sling Cr

Rd

i sy

as

n eL

Da

dE

au

de

St

r

nD ma ed

ic

Ne

e Rd mor

Be n

ve

ia A

tor

Fr

d

Al

Bo

r

er R

r ion

rd R u b

E lm

d

t

nD

Low

r nD

d

wR

t

dS

to

Benmore Gardens

tea R

rro

Rd

tS

nd

2n

12 th S 11 t th S th St t

Pro

icol Dr

Waterfall Ave

Ha

7t 6 th h St 5 th St St

10

Ma

N

A dr i

Rd

1s

9th St St

Edw a

Rd

e

e

R iv

Dr

7

Rd

nia

William N

Av

Av

K i lla

9 th Av e

6th Ave

se

d

vo

ve

ar

e

1 1t

10 t

ds

Clo

z

h Sout

Ln

en Ave ep

ll A

Rd

Rd

en

ve

ag

t r os e

e

Gw

F ife A

rfa

M on

Av

t re R

sy

8th

e Av le gy Ar Co ma rtie Rd

Ri

kie

Ri

Sa ws

V ic

Ce n

Dai

Parkmore

t

dre

s Cre

Morningside

d

An

lan

an

tsp

M

Morningside Shopping Centre

Rd

ll R

as

ub

l ey

L

Hi

t

e

a te

lbr

Av

o

Rie

Vi c

e

Val

St

Ou

ck

t

F i r Rd

d ll R

Av lt S

Av

tE

o l lyh

ia S

St

ve

n

hi

sL

am Ho

St

el ia

i

lit z

Bi ll e r n Rd

er

sf

al

th

d

Ho

S hr

e

or

W Ta

Ave

ter

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT

h es

Roxbu

12t

4t h S t

Rd

lt S

St

d

d

ve

nor

Parkhurst

5th St

15

St

9th

nR

t

ay

e

Rd

9t h S t 8th S t 7th St

th

pa

s ve

ALEXANDRA

nW

th S

13

ts Ou

G ro

e

r po

St

g

Benmore

Rd

R

sR

aA

as

22nd S t 21 s t St 2 0 th S v e tA 19thoS w i ll t W 1 8t h S t 17th S t 1 6t h S t

th

St

Craighall Parku f ort Ave al

15

ri n

e Str

us A

nn

ro Av ws

d

gle m al

rn A

e

v eA

Sp

de n

H e l l i ng R d rco Ab e

nc

e

Av

Av

n

C am

Pr un

Pa

G

rva d re

e

K

n

mo

1 3th S t

don

l

do

es

An

ng

tR

dr

s A ve

lto

ch

He

N3

Lon

an

th

Ho

ir li va

an

la s

ex

A

rg y

v eA

La

mi

Av

Rd

ROSEBANK CITY CENTRE SOWETO

e

ug

Ave

Ha

t on

Ri

WYNBERG

SANDTON STATION St rine the Ka

B

Rot

v dA

K

St

ve

rk Yo Ma r l b oro ugh Ave

ve

Dr

ford

HYDE PARK

Ox

CRAIGHALL PARK

SANDTON CENTRAL

pl e

on

Louis Botha Ave

e Av

13 Radisson Blu Sandton Hotel

Gra

Dr

e

Dr oro rlb MARLBORO Ma STATION

KRAMERVILLE

PARKMORE yst

ts mu

12 Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel

p

Re

d

cR

d

South Rd

nS Ja

11 Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton

Bou

r n da

yR

rA eda

Ma

10 Michelangelo Hotel

r

Kelvin D

MORNINGSIDE

li ub

C

Pretoria Ma in Rd

9 The Maslow

PRETORIA

M1 6t h A ve

Sandton Towers

SANDTON

d

ve

8 Intercontinental Johannesburg

ac Acc

5th A

7 Holiday Inn Sandton

st R

d

ia R

RANDBURG

Fo re

Deodar Ln MIDRAND

E lm

ol Rd

5 Garden Court Sandton City

6 Hilton Sandton Hotel ng Rd

BRYANSTON

m Nic

4 Da Vinci Hotel & Suites

Rivonia Rd

Willia

3 Courtyard Hotel Sandton

Bowling Ave Pl

N1

Inanda Polo Club RIVONIA

Braamfontein Spruit S t Al b an

bar

a

la R

Cr

Craighall

1

Ga r

s

12

St Lo

l

v eA

I l k le y R d

D um

Im p

d

2 The Capital Empire

MONTECASINO

FOURWAYS d

ea R

1 AtholPlacenHotel & Villa

rd a

e in

a re Rd

ho At

t

est

rd

ea

Bordeaux

We n dy A

Wi e

W Rd

M

K ild

Rd

Al

tS

St

R rd a

W ie

Woodmead Dr

d aR

14 Sandton Sun

es

St

l

Pr ot

i

W

z L in

ff o

Hurlingham

Rivers

d eR

Io n a Dr

Sta

Sh

8th

Sal i x

de

2

Hotels

b

ROSEBANK SANDTON MAP

d cR

Do

r

pu

re

14

Pick n Pay on Nicol

en

Gautrain

Sandton City

the

v ds A e an e r n et C ab

si

eP

nD

Ka

e rin

Sandton Field and Study Centre

Gl

Nelson 12 Mandela SquareSandton

d e r b u rg

rn

pir

to

Mushroom Farm Park

t

un

res

10

ll a S

sa

Bu

Em

nd

7 13

S te

Re

li

St

Sa

t e S 11

5

4

14

es

in

8

r

Ma

Sandton Convention Centre

nD

dl

in

re s tC

ide Dr

St

sto

3

ud Ma 5 th

ay

C

J

S he l l ey A v e

t

r

Ln

tS

Fre

nD

en

es

a dm

d

W

6

Gr

FNB Conference Centre

ia R

y

e Ln

on

ra

But

Gw

G

Dr

n sto

Colle ge

9

Riv

SANDTON MAP

d

d

Cr e s

Benmore Gardens

th R

Dr

Nor

Pret

o

t ria S

t

12

t

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com