Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 12, Sep 2017-Jan 2018 by Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

September 2017 - January 2018

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

It’s a Spring thing Where to find those blooming Jacarandas

Pattern recognition

A guide to African fabrics

N°12 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

“This was the only guide I could find that was up to date and informative about Johannesburg... Everything else I saw treated it as a hub for the Kruger National Park.” – Julia Buckley, The Independent UK

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 A roundup of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

Best hotels, guesthouses and hostels

Spaces for work and play

From the office to the spa

Where to eat

24 Neighbourhood hotspot: Eating out in Sandton 32

Joburg’s art neighbourhoods Art exhibitions

34 36

Nightlife

Best cocktail bars, pubs and jazz clubs

Sightseeing Top 10 essential sights Museums, attractions and city tours Parks, nature reserves and running clubs

44 44 45 49

Blooming Jacarandas

A guide to the purple streets

Soweto

From historic sights to hipster markets

Shopping

55 Cool and quirky stores 55 Boutique shopping, malls and the Oriental Plaza 56 Luxury shopping and markets 58

Afro-chic fashion

Where to find the hottest fabrics

Joburg basics

Essential information for your stay

Maps

64-67 City Centre, Sandton Central, Joburg neighbourhoods, Sandton to Rosebank and surrounds

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2017 – January 2018

Foreword We are proud to share with you our 12th issue of Johannesburg In Your Pocket and the view of The Independent UK’s head of travel Julia Buckley who wrote: “On a trip to Johannesburg last year, this was the only guide I could find that was up to date and informative about the city.” She noted that: “Everything else I saw skirted around what there was to offer and treated it as a hub for the Kruger National Park, but this really got under the skin. I’ve been a fan of In Your Pocket since then. Whatever the city, they really know their stuff.” Saying that, she placed In Your Pocket onto the list of the top 50 travel sites globally. It is 25 years since In Your Pocket first launched in Vilnius, Lithuania, as a city guide series dreamed up by adventurous travellers in search of a beer. Today you will find In Your Pocket covers more than 100 world cities turning its independent eye on these destinations. Joburg is not a city that reveals itself easily and our job is to unearth its treasures so that wherever you go, and whatever you do, in your hands is your passport to being a Joburg insider.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196 or Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, Johannesburg, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com or contacts us on tel. +27 11 083 6232. Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Researcher Idara Udom Admin assistant Lerato Mooya Photography Anton Bosman (@antonbosman), Justin Lee (justinlee.co.za), Angie Batis (@luckpony) and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi

COVER IMAGE

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Our amazingly energetic cover image of dancer Angela Revie was Johannesburg shot by Lauge Sorensen for Joburg Ballet and is a perfect ode to the energy of Spring in Joburg, with its packed cultural calendar and backdrop of Jacaranda blooms. Joburg Ballet performs a full-length version of Snow White from 13.1022.10 choreographed by artistic director Iain MacDonald. See What’s On for details. and Surrounds

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

September 2017 - January 2018

It’s a Spring thing Where to find those blooming Jacarandas

Pattern recognition

Published: February, May and September. Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

A guide to African fabrics

N°12 - R40

“This was the only guide I could find that was up to date and informative about Johannesburg... Everything else I saw treated it as a hub for the Kruger National Park.”

ISSN 2311-3944

– Julia Buckley, The Independent UK

9 772311 394000

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket is the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992. Download our handy In Your Pocket City Essentials app featuring our selection of venues and sights alongside essential travel information. These city guides have been carefully crafted and include an events calendar so you will never run out of ways to enjoy an In Your Pocket city. The app – available on both iOS and Android – is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) or on our blog (blog.inyourpocket. com). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Afropunk 2017 at Constitution Hill, Erin O’Brien

SPRING IN THE CITY September is Heritage Month in South Africa, culminating in the Heritage Day public holiday on September 24, and you’ll find lots of events taking place across the city that celebrate South Africa’s rich cultural diversity. In October along with the spectacular evening thunderstorms comes the blooming of the city’s thousands of beautiful purple Jacaranda trees (see our guide to the best places to view the Jacarandas on p. 50). By the time November rolls around the weather is guaranteed to be blissfully warm and sunny as summer gets into full swing. The December period leading up to the Christmas holidays is particularly busy as festive markets, festivals and parties pop up across the city with December 16, the Day of Reconciliation public holiday, usually marking the end of the working year for many Joburgers. During the Christmas and New Year holidays the city’s frenetic pace tends to slow down as many Joburgers head off to the beach or to family in rural areas. However, if you are in Joburg during New Year there’s plenty to look forward to. This year Joburg hosts the first South African edition of the cult Afropunk Festival (held annually in the USA, UK and France). The festival takes place over the New Year weekend at the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill, and many of the city’s attractions will be staying open especially to keep the party atmosphere going well into January. See iyp.me/74590f for the latest updates. EVENT TICKETS Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, ticketpros.co.za Webtickets, 0861 225 598 webtickets.co.za Computicket, 0861 915 8000 online.computicket.com 6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS 28.09 THURSDAY – 30.09 SATURDAY STANDARD BANK JOY OF JAZZ Three days, four stages and 38 performers from across South Africa and the world, this is the city’s leading jazz festival. This year’s headliners include Thandiswa Mazwai, Abdullah Ibrahim, Christian McBride and Branford Marsalis. QSandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton Central. joyofjazz.co.za. Tickets R700-R795 p/day. 30.09 SATURDAY JOZI YAKA HERITAGE FESTIVAL A free family-oriented festival to mark heritage day which includes live music, a market showcasing local cuisine, historical tours and a special children’s play area.QD-1/2, Constitution Hill, Braamfontein, constitutionhill.org.za. Entrance is free.

16.12 SATURDAY – 17.12 SUNDAY MAKHELWANE FESTIVAL Taking place in and around the streets of Mzimhlophe, a suburb of Soweto, locals open their gardens and homes with food stalls, live music, DJs and art exhibitions as well as cookery classes. Makhelwane is a Zulu term meaning neighbour but in African culture refers to community.QOrlando West, Soweto, makhelwanefestival.co.za. Tickets R100-R150.

30.09 SATURDAY – 01.10 SUNDAY HERITAGE WEEKEND In celebration of the national Heritage Day holiday (24.09), the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation presents a weekend full of different heritage-themed tours and talks including history walks, visits to local heritage buildings and gardens as well as tours around some of the city’s older and less explored neighbourhoods.QSee joburgheritage. co.za for the full programme of events.

30.12 SATURDAY – 31.12 SUNDAY AFROPUNK JOBURG With a world class lineup of the hottest names in black alternative music Afropunk Joburg 2017 promises to be one of the most exciting music events Joburg has hosted. International headline acts include Solange, Anderson Paak and Laura Mvula who are joined by top South African alternative acts like The Brother Moves On, Spoek Mathambo, Nakhane, Thandiswa Mazwai, Black Motion, Nonku Phiri and Urban Village.QD-1/2, Constitution Hill, Braamfontein, afropunkfest.com/johannesburg. Tickets R600, weekend pass R900.

7.10 SATURDAY – 8.10 SUNDAY DSTV DELICIOUS This annual festival mixes food and music, with two days of music performances by major international acts, celebrity chef demonstrations and a gourmet food and wine market. This year’s headliners include British soul singer Omar and American rapper Common.QKyalami Grand Prix Circuit, Kyalami, deliciousfestival.com. Tickets R150-R3990.

31.12 SUNDAY SOWETO IN COLOURS COUNTDOWN TO 2018 Join in the countdown to 2018 at the Soweto Theatre’s New Year’s Eve bash. The party features local live bands, dancers and DJs performing throughout the evening, plus plenty of food and drink stalls.QSoweto Theatre, cnr Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, sowetotheatre.com. Tickets R50. Party starts from 18:00.

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BOOK FAIRS The first week of September is National Book Week and the annual South African Book Festival will be taking place at Museum Africa on Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown from 08.09–10.09 (southafricanbookfair.co.za). The beautiful Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind hosts the inaugural Nirox Words festival on 21.10–22.10 (niroxarts. nutickets.co.za/words). The second annual Abantu Book Festival, which celebrates contemporary African poetry and prose, takes place from 7.12–10.12 at Soweto’s Eyethu Lifestyle Centre (00651 Tshabalala St, Mofolo Central, Soweto, abantubookfestival.co.za).

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Before going to print, we strive to bring together a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers. Space is limited so we can never put everything we would like in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes may occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar. Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed. September 2017 – January 2018

What’s On

King Kong – Legend of a Boxer, Joburg Theatre

Daniel Rutland Manners

THEATRE & DANCE 12.09 TUESDAY – 08.10 SUNDAY KING KONG – LEGEND OF A BOXER A new, critically-acclaimed blockbuster production of the iconic South African musical from the 1950s. Set in Sophiatown, King Kong tells the tragic true story of the rise and fall of heavyweight boxing champion Ezekiel Dlamini, nicknamed King Kong. Set to the irresistible jazz music of the late great South African composer Todd Matshikiza, South Africa’s first black musical, King Kong, premiered in 1959 and helped launch the careers of original cast members Miriam Makeba and Hugh Masekela.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R190-R300.

13.10 FRIDAY – 22.10 SUNDAY SNOW WHITE THE BALLET Leading South African ballet company Joburg Ballet present this new production based on the classic fairytale Snow White, choreographed by award-winning choreographer and principal dancer Iain MacDonald and set to the music of Dmitri Shostakovich. Known for their opulent sets, beautiful costumes and enthralling choreography, Joburg Ballet’s productions are always highly anticipated events that are not to be missed.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R80R450.

27.09 WEDNESDAY – 08.10 SUNDAY SO SOLO FESTIVAL A celebration of the one-man show with a dozen different plays on the schedule, ranging from drama to comedy and tackling topics such as grief, guilt, heritage and family. Highlights include Nhlanhla Mkhwanazi’s award-winning mix of oral tradition, song, instrumentation and physical theatre, A Man and A Dog.Q Wits Theatre. Tickets from R75.

14.10 SATURDAY – 16.10 MONDAY THE CENTRE FOR THE LESS GOOD IDEA Founded by world-renowned South African artist William Kentridge, The Centre for the Less Good Idea is one of Joburg’s most exciting new cultural projects. The ‘centre’ is hosted at Kentridge’s expansive studio in the Arts on Main building in Maboneng. A non-commercial collaborative space, the centre brings together artists, musicians, poets, dancers, actors and filmmakers who all work in the city of Joburg, supporting experimental and cross-disciplinary arts projects that give artists the breathing space to try out new things. Each season sees a new cast of collaborators assembling to produce a series of performances that take place at the centre itself, as well as on the city streets. This is the second season of performances. You can view the complete schedule of events and make bookings for performances on The Centre for the Less Good Idea’s website.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, lessgoodidea.com

9.10 MONDAY – 28.10 SATURDAY THE SEARCH FOR SIGNS OF INTELLIGENT LIFE American playwright Jane Wagner’s award-winning onewoman play is a comedic critique of modern American society and explores themes of isolation, loneliness, longing and the search for the meaning of life. Poignant and funny, the play’s parade of hilarious and compelling characters includes unfulfilled housewives, jaded prostitutes, and a self-improvement addicted gym bunny.QAuto & General Theatre On the Square. Tickets from R140. 8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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14.10 SATURDAY – 26.11 SUNDAY EVITA One of Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s most-loved musicals. The iconic West End hit tells the rags-to-riches tale of the First Lady of Argentina, the ruthlessly ambitious Eva Duarte Perón, affectionately known as Evita. This production features choreography, sets and costuming from the original West End play paired with an all-South African cast including leading stage star Jonathan Roxmouth in the role of Che Guevara.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R150-R500. 31.10 TUESDAY – 18.11 SATURDAY THE HOUSE OF TRUTH A biographical story of the life of South African writer and journalist Can Themba (1924-1968) who first came to prominence during Sophiatown’s golden age. Scripted with the wit and irony for which Themba was famous, the play reveals details of his personal life that inspired his most celebrated literary works.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets from R140. 11.11 SATURDAY – 30.12 SATURDAY JANICE HONEYMAN’S PINOCCHIO Follow the adventures of the wooden puppet who wants to become a real boy in award-winning scriptwriter Janice Honeyman’s festive pantomime. With the most fantastic costumes, elaborate larger-than-life sets and a script filled with humour that will appeal to both kids and adults, this festive production is a guaranteed hit suitable for the entire family.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R185-R315. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

01.12 FRIDAY – 06.01.18 SATURDAY CINDERELLA ON ICE A dramatic interpretation of the classic tale Cinderella brings the world-renowned Imperial Ice Stars to South Africa. Conceived and choreographed by award-winning ice dance director Tony Mercer, Cinderella On Ice features special effects like fire and rain in a dance showcase with stunning costumes designed by the head designer of Moscow’s Stanislavsky Theatre.QMontecasino. Tickets R100-R425. THEATRES AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE L-9, Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare.co.za. JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com. THE MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel.+27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za. MONTECASINO THEATRES Montecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre, Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, montecasino.co.za. POP ART THEATRE Small theatre showcasing the work of new local writers with a new production weekly. G-5, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, popartcentre.co.za. WITS THEATRE B-2, Cnr Jorissen and Station Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1376, wits.ac.za/witstheatre. September 2017 – January 2018

What’s On FINE ART AUCTIONS STRAUSS & CO South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co hosts two live auctions and an online auction this summer, with some of the finest South African artworks and decorative items currently on the market going under the hammer. Even if you are not looking to buy, the exhibitions held in conjunction with these auctions are a brilliant opportunity to view a broad range of beautiful works before they disappear into private collections and to learn more about South Africa’s rich art heritage. You can always view the full catalogue online for each auction. And if you can’t be there in person for the live auctions you can phone in your bids.QTel. +27 11 728 8246, straussart.co.za/straussonline. 08.09 FRIDAY – 18.09 MONDAY ONLINE ART AUCTION Strauss & Co’s innovative online auctions are a great way to get a feel for buying works on auction for the first time. There’s plenty of time to browse and read up on the artists before putting in your bid and reserve prices start from as low as R3,000. 16.10 MONDAY SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART (CAPE TOWN) One of South Africa’s most prestigious annual auctions of important South African and international art plus decorative art and jewellery takes place at The Vineyard Hotel in Cape Town on Monday 16.10. The works are on show at the hotel from 13.10–15.10 from 10:00–17:00. 13.11 MONDAY SA AND INTERNATIONAL ART (JOBURG) Strauss & Co’s previous live auction in Joburg saw record-breaking bids made on works by famous South African artists like William Kentridge and J.H. Pierneef. This auction’s biggest seller is expected to be a master work by Irma Stern, Freda in Khaki Dress, with a reserve price of R3-million, which goes under the hammer alongside hundreds of works by renowned local and international artists. The collection goes on display from 10.11–12.11 (look out for talks ahead of the live auction by Strauss & Co’s experts on 11.11–12.11 at 10:00).QL-11, The Wanderers Club, 21 North St, Illovo.

FOOD, WINE & ART 13.10 FRIDAY – 15.10 SUNDAY SANLAM HANDMADE CONTEMPORARY FAIR An annual gourmet food, boutique wine and local design fair.QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, sanlamhmc.co.za. Tickets R120. 22.10 SUNDAY THE FIRST-TIME BUYER’S ART FAIR An exciting new art fair, created by M Studio Community 10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Freda in Khaki Dress, Irma Stern

Strauss & Co

with Rosebank Mall and Rosebank Sunday Market, presents great opportunities for new art collectors to connect with an estimated 80 emerging artists.QK-12, Rosebank Mall rooftop, 50 Bath Ave, Rosebank, rosebankmall.co.za. 25.10 WEDNESDAY – 27.10 FRIDAY RMB WINEX WINE FESTIVAL More than 100 labels at one of the year’s biggest wine events.QL-9, Sandton Convention Centre, Sandton Central, winex.co.za. 08.11 WEDNESDAY – 10.11 FRIDAY WHISKY LIVE FESTIVAL One of the largest whisky festivals in SA.QL-9, Sandton Convention Centre, Sandton Central, whiskylive.co.za

FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday evening monthly the streets of Braamfontein and Rosebank beckon with art exhibition openings, live music, DJ sets and pop-up bars. Venue entrance is usually free.QSee our First Thursdays online feature at iyp. me/74150f. Events from 18:00. BRAAMFONTEIN With its many bars and large student population First Thursdays here has a party atmosphere. Look out for late night DJ parties at bars Kitchener’s and Republic of 94 and art events at Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum. ROSEBANK Art hub Keyes Art Mile hosts a street party with food trucks, music and openings at its four galleries. At Bolton Road Corner Goodman Gallery and David Krut Projects also stay open late. For a guide to art in Joburg and a roundup of the season’s art events see pp. 34-38. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Connecting Generations, The Orbit

LIVE MUSIC THE ORBIT Joburg’s live music scene has something for everyone and a night out at a local music club can be one of the most memorable parts of a Joburg visit. Joburg’s leading jazz club The Orbit hosts concerts six nights a week. All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience. As well as jazz gigs, The Orbit hosts regular events such as the excellent monthly Science & Cocktails evening, the En Fuego salsa dancing night, The Orbit Vinyl Sessions on Friday nights and a free open mic jam on Sundays at 17:00.QC-3, The Orbit, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit. co.za. Tickets from R130, half price for students. 15.09 FRIDAY CONNECTING GENERATIONS A progressive New Age rearrangement of hits by leading South African musicians such as Feya Faku, Thandiswa Mazwai and McCoy Mrubata.QThe Orbit. Tickets R130.

CONCERTS 16.09

Major League Gardens, house and hip hop. FNB Stadium. Tickets R200

23.09

Red Bull Culture Clash, hip hop and dub battle. Orlando Stadium. Tickets from R200.

07.10

Bastille, British indie band. Emmarentia Dam. Tickets R495.

15.10

Lady Antebellum, American county music. Ticketpro Stadium. Tickets R535-R995.

08.1109.11

Cat Stevens. TicketPro Dome. Tickets R450-R1200

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

27.09 WEDNESDAY LES FANTASTIQUES One of Joburg’s most energetic live bands. Playing a fusion of Congolese and Latino sounds, Les Fantastiques’ funky African rhythms will make you want to dance all night long. QThe Orbit. Tickets R130. 03.10 TUESDAY TUTU PUOANE CHARITY CONCERT This fundraising concert led by South African jazz singer Tutu Puoane is raising money for the Mangakane Foundation, an initiative founded by Tutu’s brother that assists impoverished schools in the Limpopo province.QThe Orbit. Tickets R150.

CINEMA

Robert Hodgins, Chairmen

THE BIOSCOPE CINEMA For indie, arthouse and foreign-language films, this small independent cinema in Maboneng leads the pack and is also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films. Regular events include Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday of every month and Noche Española Spanish film night on the third Thursday. Also look out for the Classic Movie Club nights, screening cult classics, and ‘Noodle Box’ Kung Fu film nights (slurp noodles while you watch). Next door is Chalkboard Café known for its pizza and craft beer that you can enjoy during the screenings. See the latest schedules and book online.QG4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, thebioscope.co.za. Tickets R30-R50. To see What’s On in Joburg, visit inyourpocket.com/ johannesburg/events Follow us on @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and get our weekly newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Estimate: R20 000 – 30 000

South African and International Art and Decorative Arts ONLINE-ONLY Auction 8 - 18 September 2017 Browse > Bid > Buy

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@ straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

One of South Africa’s most memorable hostels Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all (p. 52). Choose from comfy dorms (from R185), private rooms or space to pitch your tent. Guests love the games and storytelling by the fire, the rocking beach-style bar, super park, and not-to-be-missed cycling and tuk-tuk tours.

James XVI Ethiopian is a no-frills For under R20 you can pocket-sized restaurant serving cheap feast on typical Sowetan (from R50) and cheerful traditional street food like grilled Ethiopian lunches in huge portions chicken feet or kotas. (p. 31). The welcoming owner, James Alternatively for Wondeson, is always on hand to something more formal head to the guide you through the day’s specials. Ubuntu Kraal Kasi Beer Garden to try the local craft beer Soweto Gold paired with a sharing platter for under R200 (p.54).

Galata Bakery and Coffee offers authentic Turkish cuisine at affordable prices in generous portions (p. 24). Try the Turkish Breakfast for R50 with menemen (Turkish-style scrambled eggs) and gozleme (traditional flatbread) with cheese, tomatoes, olives and honey on the side.

Take advantage of the Arm yourself with one Visit the fascinating many art galleries (all of the free maps Kliptown Museum for free to visit) such as available at Curiocity insights into this historic Wits Art Museum or African Design neighbourhood which the edgy KalashnikoHostels and take a was the site of the 1955 vv Gallery (p. 34). On exhibition walk through Maboneng’s streets signing into being of the Freedom opening nights (usually on Thursdays) which are famous for having some of Charter, the precursor to South Africa’s there’s also free wine and a chance to the coolest graffiti art in the country. democratic Constitution (see p. 53). meet the artists. Visit Constitution Hill to learn about South Africa’s dark past and the freedoms enshrined in its Constitution (p. 45). For R65 enter all the museums and get a one-hour guided tour. Or, for no cost, you can explore the Constitutional Court and take in the view from the Old Fort ramparts.

Take a walking or cycling tour with MainStreetWalks tour company (p. 48) and see a different side of the inner city such as the Kwa Mai Mai market, an historic traditional healers market that preserves important aspects of indigenous knowledge. Tours from R250.

The extensive, modern and engrossing Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum (p. 52) focuses on the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto student uprising and is arguably Soweto’s best museum. At R30 (R10 for kids) the entrance ticket is great value for money.

Mingle with the hipsters and cool kids of Braamfontein at the Saturday Neighbourgoods Market (p. 58). Join the queue for the always popular frozen mojitos, indulge in gourmet street food and enjoy live music with great city views on the market rooftop.

Housed in an old industrial building, the Sunday Market on Main (p. 58) has a great atmosphere, a super variety of fahion and design items and lots of delicious food. Grab a bite and drinks from the stalls downstairs and head one floor up for vintage fashion finds.

A stone’s throw from the famous Vilakazi Street, the monthly Locrate Market (p. 54) presents local street fashion, food trucks, craft beers and the coolest handmade items with a distinctly Sowetan vibe and live local music and DJ sets.

The Immigrant (part of the Once In Joburg hostel overlooking the busy Grove square) is especially lively on weekends and attracts a fun-loving twenty-something party crowd (p. 42). All craft beers cost less than R60 and if you drink local labels you‘ll find it’s even cheaper.

Meet fellow travellers, plan your next adventure and jam to local bands at The Hideout bar (p. 42), named for its history as a secret anti-apartheid printing press. Aimed at backpackers, there are always regular happy hours and cheap cocktails on offer.

Cool down with a cold beer (from R20) at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers beach-style courtyard bar or watch the sunset from the lapa in the garden out front. Alternatively, head over to Chaf Pozi (p. 54) one of the most famous beer gardens in Soweto.

Nightlife

Eat

Soweto

Curiocity African Design Hostel is situated in the trendy downtown Maboneng precinct and has a large wrap-around balcony from where you can survey Joburg’s iconic skyline (p. 21). Dorms from R210 a night, plus private rooms and self-catering studios down the road.

Free activities

Maboneng

Once in Joburg is a ‘poshtel’ in the heart of ‘Braam’s student district, offering the comfort of a three-star hotel with the social scene of a backpackers hostel (p. 21). Choose from dorm, twin or family rooms, from R235 a night.

See

Braamfontein

Markets

Stay

Joburg on a budget

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Once in Joburg we invite you to experience the inner city from our doorstep. Our friendly team will get you out and about - from a free walking tour, Jazz evening, inner city cycle tour, visiting art galleries, Soweto or the legendary Ponte tower - our team are city ambassadors who rave about Jozi!

Private Rooms are all ensuite, with aircon, white linen, tea and coffee stations and TV - the perfect spot for a mid-week Staycation or visiting friends. The Quad “Dorm” rooms are best suited for the young at heart traveller, backpackers and sports groups. Other amenities: Hot desks, conference room, cinema room, communal kitchen, games room.

www.onceinjoburg.co.za • info@onceinjoburg.co.za • 0876250639 90 De Korte St • Braamfontein, Johannesburg Central reservations: book@onceinjoburg.co.za

Have you booked your night at Once in Cape Town? www.onceincapetown.co.za

Arriving & Getting Around

To City Centre To a local stop MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Gandhi Square Metro Bus Terminal, City Centre

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is used by some budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose restrictions on carrying liquids in your hand luggage. O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and all South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights in Terminal A. For security purposes have your luggage safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be very long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one and a half hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za. Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R151. After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus. Official airport taxi service Ortacc Cabs (tel. +27 86 124 3243, ortacc.co.za) charges R14.50 per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office. 16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Anton Bosman LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com. LOCAL AIRLINES SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS (SAA) The national airline flies to more than 100 destinations around the world.QTel. 0861 606 606 or +27 11 978 1111, flysaa.com. AIRLINK Specialising in flights from Joburg to regional hubs and private safari lodges in southern Africa.QTel. +27 11 451 7350, flyairlink.com. BRITISH AIRWAYS Regional flights from Joburg to other South African destinations are operated by local partner Comair.QTel. +27 11 921 0222 or +27 10 344 0130, britishairways.com. FASTJET Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to destinations in Tanzania and Zimbabwe.QTel. +27 10 500 2560, fastjet.com. KULULA AIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities, plus Windhoek, Harare, Mauritius, Livingstone and Victoria Falls.QTel. 0861 585 852 or +27 11 921 0500, kulula.com. MANGO Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to Cape Town, Durban, George, Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar. QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, flymango.com. SAFAIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities.QTel. +27 87 135 1351, flysafair.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Gold Cards cost R16 (this is a non-refundable cost). Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends. You need a minimum of R25 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30. The Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport route has a fixed price of R151. Prices for the north-south Joburg to Pretoria route start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za. METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office inside the Gandhi Mall with timetables and route information. Note that the buses are not known for being punctual. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late-afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the fare to the driver (usually R10-R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance for your stop – giving a landmark is usually easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find it offers many insights into everyday South African life. REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of picture ID to register. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30. Check the schedule because on some routes buses run until 20:30 (see reavaya.org.za.) These are some useful routes: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein. C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street. C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave). T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at Boomtown.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’. The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are the most accessible transport service as they cover large swathes of the city and neighbouring townships. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2017 – January 2018

Arriving & Getting Around DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make frequent unannounced stops. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not entirely uncommon on the freeways. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Johannesburg Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station (tel. +27 11 666 1700), avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Sandton Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), europcar.co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals (343 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 640 2666, rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:30. Closed Sun).

TAXIS AND TUK-TUKS Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are few places where you can hail a taxi in the street and some of the unmetered private taxis that hang around the ranks next to the Gautrain stations have a poor reputation for overcharging. It is best to confirm a price upfront or order a taxi in advance. Once you have ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point. This is especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where there has been some conflict between rival private taxi operators and Uber drivers. There are a number of taxi apps. The global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network. Download the app and choose from an UberX, Uber Black (luxury vehicle) or Uber Van. First-time users should take advantage of our Uber discount code on p. 17. The city’s largest taxi company is Zebra Cabs which can be ordered by phone or using their app. Zebra Cabs also offers a service for women who require female drivers and payment is accepted in cash, by debit card or via its app (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za). You can also download the Taxify app. For short trips through the suburbs, tuk-tuks are useful. E-TUK-TUK Melville-based and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips R50. Book in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82515 6593, e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside Sandton City mall on West Street and operating within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, sheshatuks.co.za 18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Beaded in Joburg. The Casspir Project by Ralph Ziman

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQTel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za. See Sightseeing for Joburg and Soweto tour guides that specialise in walking and cycling tours.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and bike lanes in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. Although, these are not always respected by the rest of the road-using public so be extra cautious when cycling in urban areas. For the most up-to-date information on cycle routes, go to juca.org.za. Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but the City Centre, Braamfontein and Maboneng are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also best explored at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing over the bridges from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers who often do not recognise pedestrian crossings, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike.

Alexis Preller, Homage to Hieronymous Bosch Estimate: R3 000 000 - 5 000 000

Important South African and International Art, Decorative Arts and Jewellery Auction, Monday 16 October 2017, The Vineyard Hotel, Cape Town Preview 13 - 15 October 2017

NAVIGATING THE CITY In the City Centre beware of driving into the awkwardlyplaced bus lanes as this carries a fine and take note of the many one-way streets. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. In the suburbs always check whether numbered names such as First or Second are streets or avenues as these usually intersect. See pp. 64-67 for our City Centre and Sandton maps. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sneak Preview of a Selection of Highlights 13 - 17 September 2017 The Gallery, One&Only Hotel Dock Road, V&A Waterfront

Enquiries +27 21 683 6560 ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

Where to stay

Once in Joburg, Braamfontein

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built for mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency Johannesburg is one of the city’s top business hotels favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s oneNINEone restaurant (see Where to Eat) opens onto a courtyard perfect for sipping wine far from the madding crowd (L-11, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency. hyatt.com. 224 rooms). If leisure is what you seek, the Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The dropdead-gorgeous views of this most-treed city make Flames restaurant a prime sundowners destination (reserve your table) or the place to enjoy a sumptuous brunch. For a blissful break head to the spa (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons.com/johannesburg. 117 rooms). At the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn, it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom. The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados, or book a wine or tea pairing at Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon, restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef. The spa is an ultra-luxe location perfect for summer afternoons (K-9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, saxon. co.za. 53 rooms). The olde-world opulent Palazzo Hotel Montecasino, a regular World Luxury Hotel award-winner, is an international celebrity hangout. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions, the hotel has a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a memorable trip (Montecasino Blv, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246 rooms). 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The intimate and chic 54 on Bath has a boutique-hotel feel and a champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location, and show the best of modern Joburg (K-12, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, tsogosunhotels. com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).

BOUTIQUE HOTELS Hallmark House in Maboneng is the much-anticipated design of leading Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye whose most recent work includes the landmark National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington DC. Industrial chic with plenty of contemporary artwork and finishes, the hotel rooms each have a balcony offering city views. The 4-star hotel is still a work in progress and will house a rooftop spa, gym and swimming pool. You’ll find Loof Coffee in the lobby known for its excellent roasts, the hip and happening Marabi Club for jazz, and a free shuttle service will put you within easy reach of all Maboneng’s attractions (F-4, 54 Siemert Rd, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 402 0220, newmarkhotels.com. 46 rooms). QSL on 44 is one of Joburg’s newer boutique hotels, a luxury refuge created by the founders of Row-G, an exclusive men’s fashion label. Vintage furniture and industrial interiors combine to create an uber-stylish setting, metres from the delights of boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley in Milpark (12 Quince St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 830 0000, qslon44.com. 10 rooms). The Residence caters to champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here from 1908-09, and is a tasteful bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

MID-RANGE HOTELS

INNER-CITY STAYOVER

The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools (M-8, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (M-11, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, proteahotels. com/melrose. 197 rooms). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, thefairway. co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors, Thaba Eco Hotel, set in a nature reserve south of Joburg, offers hiking, mountain biking, game walks and nature drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. 24 rooms).

Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at The Bannister Hotel. The bar is one of Braamfontein’s most popular hangouts, plus there are regular gigs. A stylish budget hotel, The Bannister has en suite rooms with plenty of TV channels, free Wi-Fi, and rain showerheads in the bathrooms (C3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za. 32 rooms). Also in Braamfontein, Once in Joburg looks out onto The Grove square and has brought a ‘poshtel’ (posh hostel) setup to this student-centric neighbourhood. Once In Joburg offers solo travellers and groups three-star hotel amenities plus the social atmosphere that makes backpacking a popular travel experience. The array of accommodation includes mixed dorms, female-only dorms, twin rooms and even a family room that sleeps four. (C3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 87 625 0639, onceinjoburg.co.za. 60 rooms). If it’s happening in Maboneng, Curiocity African Design Hostel is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and city aficionado, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing). Curiocity hosts live-music events, rooftop picnics, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms, a loft apartment and Curiocity Pads – 12 boutique apartments, each designed by an artist to reflect a particular decade of Joburg’s first 120 years. A recently opened second branch in Durban is already a hit with youthful travellers (G-5, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).

GUESTHOUSES AND B&BS The multi-award-winning guesthouse Liz at Lancaster is owned by Liz Delmont, an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy your stay. She has thought of everything that will make your time in this city as comfortable as possible. Follow Liz’s travels through the city on her website blog. (J-10, 79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083 or +27 83 229 4223, lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms). Liz at Lancaster is a member guesthouse of Johannesburg Guesthouses, a guesthouse network that offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation in and around Rosebank at more than 20 properties. Many of their establishments are owner-run. This is where to look if you fancy garden retreats in the prettiest suburbs, bed-and-breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service. See their booking website johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za. Available options include child-friendly, wheelchair-friendly and even pet-friendly accommodation. Monthly rentals and meeting facilities are available at selected properties and each listed property offers something distinctive.

SOWETO OVERNIGHT With so much to see and experience, it’s worth spending quality time in Soweto. Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch a tent in the garden. There is a welcoming beachstyle bar, and an open-air restaurant in the adjacent park. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours are a must-do activity (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds). See Sightseeing. For more recommended accommodation establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

get a taste of the true Jo h annes bur g

bannisterhotel.com 9 de Beer Street Braamfontein 011 403 6888

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September 2017 – January 2018

Spaces for work and play

WORK &

RELAX To get work done outside of an office, you can find free Wi-Fi and counter space at many of Joburg’s coffee shops. Alternatively opt for a dedicated coworking space, and longer term, a member’s club.

SPAS COMMON GROUND FOR UNCOMMON PEOPLE

MEMBER’S CLUB MESH CLUB Africa’s first curated member’s club is a super-stylish and exclusive work and play space for budding and established entrepreneurs. Taking up one floor of the contemporary landmark Trumpet building along Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank, the space is designed for networking and collaboration, or just getting your work done in a mix of public and private areas. With office spaces, meeting rooms and hot-desking facilities, a screening room, lounge, dining area, coffee station and bar, this is a club that no one will want to leave. There’s not much they haven’t thought of here. There’s even a community manager to manage relationships between those interested in collaboration. From 4pm play replaces work – as it should in any respectable workspace – with the superb bar open to the public. See Nightlife.QK-12, Trumpet, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, meshclub.co.za, tel. +27 10 594 5545. Contact Mesh Club for membership information.

CO-WORKING SPACES OPEN A collaborative community workspace in trendy Maboneng. Daily rate from R256.QG-5, 4th Floor, The Main Change, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 10 200 9000, theopen.co.za. Open 07:30–18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. URBAN COLLECTIVE An elegant co-working and hot-desking space in the historic Cornerhouse building downtown. Daily rate of R180. QD-5, 34 Simmonds St, City Centre, urbanocean.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Four Seasons Spa Westcliff FOUR SEASONS SPA WESTCLIFF The search for serenity should lead here. Book a single treatment or a package and make use of the spa facilities that include his and her’s steam rooms and saunas. A wraparound outdoor lap pool and a jacuzzi that hugs the post-treatment relaxation room are more reasons to stay on. Your treatment time will start with a relaxing foot ritual and you will have the option of choosing the accompanying genre of music.QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, fourseasons.com/johannesburg/spa, tel. +27 11 481 6450. Open 09:00–20:00. TENFOLD This chic nail salon, tucked into the pretty sculpture garden courtyard of Maboneng’s The Cosmopolitan, offers manicures, pedicures, massages, threading, tinting and lash extensions. The owner left a job in public service to create a nail salon that would deliver “honest” service. That means no artificial nail enhancements and formaldehyde-free and cruelty-free nail products.QG-4, The Cosmopolitan, 24 Albrecht St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 64 681 4759. Open Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where music, art and cocktails are accompanied by sunsets and interesting conversations - bringing together extraordinary people.

www.meshclub.co.za

2nd Floor Trumpet On Keyes, 21 Keyes Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg, 2196

Where to eat

Where to eat SALVATION CAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard – perfect for relaxed family meals.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00 (kitchen closes at 15:30). 6ULBS

DELIS CHEESE GOURMET One of the few places in Joburg that can actually lay claim to the title of stocking truly ‘artisanal products’. The owners are champions of slow food and the deli stocks more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats produced with care and sourced directly from local farms. Q77 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 5384. Open 08:00– 17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

Breezeblock, Brixton Joburg offers everything from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine. In our listings we have tried to highlight a mix of both fine dining experiences and off-the-beaten track adventures. Generally speaking Thursday to Saturday nights may require bookings, and many restaurants close on Mondays. Some restaurants allow you to bring your own wine. Call to find out the corkage fee. From around mid-December to early January many restaurants close (particularly those located in the suburbs) so call to check on open hours. For cafés and restaurants in Sandton Central, see our special feature on where to eat in Sandton (pp. 32-33).

BREEZEBLOCK NEW A friendly and unpretentious neighbourhood café in the historic suburb of Brixton with superb retro decor (the name comes from the neatly painted 1970s breezeblocks lining its sunny courtyard). The eclectic menu is filled with home-style comfort food from an eggplant shakshuka to the baked butternut dumplings with hot butterscotch sauce.Q29 Chiswick St, Brixton, tel. +27 76 705 3992, breezeblock.co.za. Open 07:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 08:00– 17:00. Closed Mon. UEBW

Joburg has a big café culture and every suburb of the city has its own favourite independent café where locals like to meet for breakfast or lunch. Meanwhile the homegrown cafe chain Tashas, usually found in more upmarket areas of the city like Sandton, Hyde Park and Rosebank, is also reliably excellent.

GALATA BAKERY AND COFFEE This charming Turkish bakery and café offers authentic cuisine at student-friendly prices. Named after an ancient Istanbul neighourhood its decor embellishments recall its origins. The food comes in generous portions. Feast on the Turkish Breakfast, a refreshing combination of Turkishstyle scrambled eggs with traditional flatbread, served with strong black tea.QC‑3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 1492. Open 07:00–20:00. LBSW

ARBOUR CAFÉ & COURTYARD NEW Don’t be deceived by the petite street frontage, this cute French-inspired café actually occupies an entire courtyard that is reached via the back of the cafe. The menu’s French inspiration is found in its perfectly executed omelettes and galettes (a savoury French crepe made using buckwheat flour) with fillings such as spinach, leek and feta or chorizo, mozzarella and tomato.QM‑11, Cnr St Andrews St and Wrenrose Ave, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 788 4111, arbourcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–22:00, Sun 08:00–16:00, Mon, Tue 08:00–17:00. T6ULEBW

MILK BAR At this chic contemporary Africa-themed café in Rosebank’s Keyes Art Mile you’ll find a basic café menu of tasty local fare that includes bunny chow and prego rolls, plus excellent African-sourced coffee, and African beers. Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in Addis Ababa, quirky retro items, colourful fabrics and traditional artworks abound. Drop by on Friday nights for music and Mozambican beers.QK‑12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5128, keyesartmile. co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–23:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 07:30–16:00. EBSW

CAFÉS

24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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FOURNOS onsistently voted Joburg’s best bakery, this large deli and C café is a busy neighbourhood stop. The chocolate croissants and extensive and well-priced breakfast menu are star attractions while the deli section has a great selection of cheeses, freshly-made pastas and sauces, cold meats, salads and other casual meal must-haves.QK‑12, Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, 224 Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, fournos.co.za. Open 06:00–18:00, Sat 07:00–16:00, Sun 07:00–14:00. LBS THE LEOPARD + KITCHEN + LARDER + NEW Much praised chef and cookbook author Andrea Burgener’s small deli and food store specialises in takeaway meals to reheat at home, freshly-made salads, homemade preserves and sauces and a carefully sourced selection of the finest ingredients that Burgener herself uses in the kitchen. The deli also has a small lunchtime takeaway menu (available 11:00–15:00) that changes every day.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany. com. Open 09:30–19:00. 6LV

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

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September 2017 – January 2018

Where to eat SWEET TREATS CHOCOLOZA Vicky Bain’s chocolate shop is a revelation. Bain trained in Belgium and can be found in the store’s chocolate kitchen cooking up handcrafted beauties using only the finest ingredients and experimenting with unusual flavour combinations. She also offers seven varieties of hot chocolate. Q44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 900 4892. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. TS PATACHOU PATISSERIE The counter windows at this authentic French patisserie, boulangerie and tea room make quick decision-making tough. From rich and densely-layered almond croissants to choux pastry filled with almond praline cream, delicate fruit tartlets and savoury pastries, Patachou excels.QJ‑12, 15 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 268 5702, patachou.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:30–16:30, Sun 08:30–15:00. T6LBSW THE PATISSERIE A favourite of the ladies who lunch, with its bold pink and white striped walls and small French-style tables. There is an awesome display of pastries and cakes, plus a light meals menu. Favourites are the fluffy scrambled eggs or the generous helping of salmon fishcakes with salad.QPost Office Centre Illovo, cnr Rudd Rd and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:30. Closed Sun. LS PAUL’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM Enjoy ice cream made with integrity (no chemicals or synthetic additives) in an enticing range of flavours. New flavours are constantly added. Taste the roasted pistachio and honey ice cream with gold edible glitterQK-12, The Zone @ Rosebank, 117 Oxford Road, tel. +27 11 485 0104, paulshomemade.com. Open 09:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–22:00. LS

Where to eat THE MILKSHAKE BAR T he ultimate milkshake bar serving almost 40 different mouthwatering combinations including Rocky Road, Oreo and Ferrero Rocher, as well as alcoholic shakes. Ditch the diet and order the large shake which comes served in a giant goblet. Enjoy your milkshake at the bar or on a sunny day head to the pool deck.QM‑11, Protea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 218 4000, proteahotels.com/melrose. Open 06:30– 22:30. TUBSW

COFFEE FATHER COFFEE blond-wood and white-tiled temple to aesthetics and A hipster font design this coffee shop roasts its own beans on site and you can buy a neatly packaged box of the best to take home. Service is curt (if you do get a smile please let us know) but the excellent coffee more than makes up for it. Also at 73 Juta Street, Braamfontein.QK-12, The Zone@ Rosebank, Rosebank, tel. +27 82 513 4258. Open 07:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. 6BSW LOOF COFFEE Drop by this friendly little spot in Norwood for coffee any way you like. From the chemex to the cold brew and the flat white to the cortado, the menu is a veritable encyclopaedia of coffee. For a turbo powered morning order the ‘espresso with attitude’.Q85 Iris Rd (cnr Grant Ave), Norwood, tel. +27 74 994 8099. Open 07:30–18:30, Sat 08:00–18:30, Sun 08:00–17:00. LBSW THE GRIND COFFEE COMPANY This small coffee bar in a cycle shop has the most Insta gram-worthy coffees. Try the signature Coffee in a Cone, a macchiato served in a chocolate-lined ice-cream cone or the nitro cold brew ‘Draught Coffee’.QM‑11, Whitely Rd, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 72 754 8705. Open 06:30–18:00, Sat, Sun 07:30–16:00. ULBSW

ASIAN

RED CHAMBER Emma Chen opened her restaurant in 1989 in Hyde Park Corner and named it after one of China’s greatest novels. With tables spilling into the mall (good for family meals as the kids get to run around in plain sight) she serves up un forgettable Mandarin-style dishes striving for a harmony of taste, texture, colour and aroma. Famous for spicy cucumber salad, Peking Duck and sizzling plates, just to name a few dishes, this is one restaurant worth heading to a shopping centre for. Service is efficient and Chen has banned MSG.QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, redchamber.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. TULS YAMATO This much-awarded restaurant serves elegant and traditional Japanese food with polite service. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt and the light tempura dishes and gyoza dumplings (best eaten with a touch of chilli oil and soya sauce) are a definite highlight. You’ll find a solemn atmosphere, but what a combination of flavours!QL-11, 198 Oxford Rd (Illovo Muse), Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511/+27 11 268 0512, yamato.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00–14:30, dinner 18:00–22:00. LS

CHINATOWN The city’s original Chinatown (known as First Chinatown) was settled on Commissioner Street (B-5) in downtown Joburg in the early 20th-century, as Chinese labourers came here to work in the gold mines. In the early 1990s as the city began to decline in the wake of apartheid’s end much of the community moved from the city centre. A few stalwarts still remain, including the city’s longest-running Chinese restaurant Swallow’s Inn and the eclectic supermarket Sui Hing Hong which stocks just about any ingredient a Chinese cook would want. Joburg’s brash New Chinatown is situated along Derrick Avenue in the eastern suburb of Cyrildene and packed with eateries offering a diversity of predominantly Chinese food. The storefronts are unmistakably Asian and include supermarkets, massage parlours, fireworks stockists and acupuncturists. Adventurous eaters will love it here – there’s not much English spoken so have fun deciphering the untranslated menus.

Chocoloza, Milpark 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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HIGH TEA

CHEZ FONG This weekly bookings-only pop-up restaurant on the covered patio of a Upper Houghton mansion is overseen by the vivacious Su-Yen Thornhill of Scottish- Chinese extraction. Expect a fun night out with a multi-course (between eight and 10) Asian-influenced tasting menu. The menu changes weekly and everything you will taste is homemade including the excellent hoisin sauce that you will want to pour over every morsel. Thornhill’s dishes are beautifully plated and each dish is to be relished.QTel. +27 74 361 9079, facebook.com/Chezfong.

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The Michelangelo Hotel, Sandton Scones with jam and clotted cream, savoury bites and a selection of fruity and black teas make high tea the way to spend a lazy summer afternoon. You can find high tea served at many of Joburg’s luxury hotels. Favourites include the elegant 54 on Bath hotel in Rosebank (Royal afternoon tea R295, traditional afternoon tea R245, served daily from 15:30–17:30. Bookings must be made by 10:00 on the day) and the lavish Palazzo Montecasino in Fourways where you’ll find a surprisingly reasonably priced offering served at the Medeo restaurant or on the terrace (high tea served daily from 14:00–17:00, R245 per person). See Where to Stay for address and contact details. LINDT HIGH TEA AT THE MICHELANGELO If you prize boundless generosity when it comes to taking high tea then the Lindt High Tea at five-star The Michelangelo Hotel in the heart of Sandton is the one for you. This buffet-style experience offers overflowing platters of exceptional sweet treats and a fine selection of savouries. Choices include a delightfully dizzying array of sushi, fishcakes, skewers of beef and vegetables, dainty salmon and cream cheese topped puff pastry and de rigueur crustless cucumber sandwiches.QL-9, Piccolo Mondo, Michelangelo Hotel, 135 West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 282 7000, legacyhotels. co.za. High Tea served Sat and Sun 14:30–16:30, costs R295 per person. September 2017 – January 2018

Where to eat

Where to eat A LA BOUFFE The name of this unfussy little bistro in the charming suburb of Linden means simply “Come and eat”. It specialises in traditional rustic French classics served in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every two months to give seasonal ingredients their chance to shine.Q32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 8004. Open 11.00–14.00 and 18.00–21.00, Sat 09:00–14:00 and 18:00–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR-RRR. Corkage R40. UB

INDIAN FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history Fordsburg is a collision of spicy streets and enticing flavours. With a predominantly Muslim population most restaurants do not serve alcohol and many shops close on Friday lunch time (prayer time). Along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Road and Rahima Moosa Street – particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market – good dining choices include Turkish restaurant Istanbul (52 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 056 5749. Open 11:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30–22:00), the casual sit-in or takeaway spot Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 066 4929. Open 10:00–21:30), and sweetmeats bakery Shalimar Delights (228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 11 832 1675. Open 09:00–21:00). The World of Samoosas kiosk in the famous Oriental Plaza shopping bazaar is the place to stop for samoosas. For a curry lunch there’s The Golden Peacock (38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, orientalplaza. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 15:00, closed Sun). See map on p. 64 (A-4 and A-5).

BELLAGIO Not an exclusively seafood restaurant, but the flawless fish dishes are the main attraction. Grilled kingklip, gigantic langoustines and seared tuna steaks feature prominently. The pasta menu is the real deal, straight from a Ligurian fishing village. Bellagio is suited to lazy weekend lunches on the terrace, Mediterranean style.QL‑11, 196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0869. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. RRRR. LB

STREET FOOD BAHA TACO This colourful casual taqueria started out as a market stall. Specialising in Mexican street food this is a cutlery-free zone, where you’ll find a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawn, haloumi and vegetables, or pulled pork. Everything here is freshly prepared. Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark chocolate sauce.QShop 3 Tarquin House, 38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 76 694 7400/+27 71 345 6625. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 11:00– 20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. S GLORY There’s not much in the way of cutlery or other comforts but once you taste the contents of a ‘box’, crispy Thai-inspired chicken for four accompanied by a superb blend of sweet, salty and spicy pickles and sides and steamed buns, you will be forgiven for singing Hallelujah. To make the experience even more heavenly, team it up with a coconutlime daquiri.Q81 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 499 7808. Open 12:00–24:00, Mon 17:00–22:00, Tue 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–02:00. Closed Sun. RR. 6UBSW MOMO SOKO Specialising in Taiwanese and Chinese street food with a twist this casual restaurant has a wide-ranging menu with plenty of small dishes to be shared. Start with traditional potstickers, Norwegian salmon tacos and crispy Korean fried chicken wings; the grilled Chinese ‘soko’ skewers and the stuffed bao (steamed buns) are worthy of applause. There’s also a good sushi menu.QL‑11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 6182, momosoko.com. Open 11:00–15:30, 17:00–21:30, Sun 11:00–15:30. R-RR. Bring your own liquor. Corkage is free. 6ULBW 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Momo Soko, Illovo

Angie Batis

SUMTING FRESH This small street food joint with its minimalist menu and setting honours the chicken. Innovative dishes include ‘Gujon’ chicken – strips served with Asian slaw, skinny fries, aioli and sweet chili sauce – and the unforgettable Gua Bao, a Taiwanese steamed bun filled with the good stuff and sriracha hot sauce mayo. Order an icy fresh fruity jam jar to accompany your meal.Q79 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 2331, sumtingfresh.co.za. Open 09:00– 21:00. Closed Tue. R-RR. Corkage R50. UL SOUL SOUVLAKI There are fewer than a dozen chairs (most of them outside) and the kitchen is compact making for an intimate and supremely casual lunch environment. It’s hard to choose between the lamb, chicken or haloumi souvlaki, each prepared with tstatsiki and salad in a freshly baked pita. QK‑10, Shepherd Market, 339 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 79 467 7897. Open 11:00–19:00.

MIDDLE EASTERN EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor at this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery is Instagramworthy and constantly evolving. It includes the ‘tochas’ cushion (Yiddish for bottom) and other quirky innovations by popular T-shirt and homeware brand Love Jozi. Your table comes with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with toppings, the shakshuka or excellent shawarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice or cocktail to go with it. If you are not a morning person, take comfort from the all day breakfast menu.QG‑5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. 6BSW

ROSTO Italian street food is the inspiration behind the main dish, flavoursome rotisserie chicken pulsed with 1100 degrees of smoky heat and served in three variations – sundried tomato, Mediterranean herbs and lemon or herbs. There are also plenty of other wholesome dishes on the menu.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 0369, eatrosto.com. Open 12:00–22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–22:00, Tue 17:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. Corkage R50. 6UIB

TETA MARI For the best shakshuka breakfast (a dish of poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce, and said to have originated in Tunisia) there’s this stylish cafe with an outdoor deck perfect for sunny days, serving generous portions of food that would bring comfort to any troubled soul. Other musts are the vanilla-infused kitka French toast with mascarpone, halva and toasted almonds or the New York deli-style Reuben Special of brisket on rye. QL‑11, 5A Illovo Square, Cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. B

PAREA A lively taverna serving tasty Greek fare since 1993. Their wide-ranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, delicious roast fish specialities and standard Greek dishes like kleftiko and souvlakias. From 21:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant hots up with belly-dancers and smashing crockery. For a quieter meal go there early.QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8785, parea.co.za. Open 11:00 until late, Open Mon–Sun 11:00–late. RR. BS

TURKISH SHAWARMA AND GRILL This is a great value, down-to-earth family-run halal restaurant on Melville’s colourful main street. The extensive menu includes grilled meats, shawarmas and kebabs, freshly baked breads and a range of tasty salads and dips which you can mix and match. Order a grilled platter to share and there’ll be plenty left over for home time.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1125. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri–Sun 11:30–22:00. R. TBS

MEDITERRANEAN 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. Authentic and family-friendly, Portuguese knickknacks abound. The kitchen closes early (20:30), but its worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawns and calamari.QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30). Closed Mon. RR. TL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Rosto, Linden facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2017 – January 2018

Where to eat

Where to eat ONENINEONE With its open kitchen, cool face brick interiors, and splashes of colour recalling Joburg spring Jacaranda blooms The Hyatt Regency’s Johannesburg’s restaurant led by chef Shaneil Dinna offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The a la carte menu is seasonal, and dishes are elegantly plated and infused with local flavour, such as buttered biltong polenta served with the braised beef short rib, and a starter of smoked blesbok loin. Retire to the Lobby Lounge or courtyard for a nightcap.QK/L‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:15–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch, dinner Mon–Sat 12:00–22:00. RRRR. LBW

OneNineOne, Rosebank

STEAKHOUSES

CONTEMPORARY

CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Leather saddles and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life adorn the walls of the atmospheric old warehouse in which Che is located. The place is moodily lit by the glow from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentinestyle steaks are cooked. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert.QG‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00. Closed Mon. RRR. ILEB

There was a time when many derided Joburg’s culinary scene as uninspired and as dominated by franchise restaurants. But that has long changed and you’ll find a diverse group of chefs serving up superb flavours on the city’s contemporary food scene. Reservations recommended.

THE LOCAL GRILL This place is a shrine to red meat. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose your lazy dry or wet aged meat, ribs, or ground beef burgers. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef cows. Seared salmon is also a menu favourite and vegetarians are made to feel welcome. The Local Grill showcases local wines. You can also dine in the private wine room.QJ‑12, Cnr 7th and 3rd Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, localgrill. co.za. Open lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner 18:00–22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. TLB THE BUTCHERY BY MARBLE NEW This butchery by top restaurant Marble (a few floors above, see Nightlife) is an exquisite and unique destination that also doubles as a wine bar, serving small platters of cheeses and charcuterie. The artwork-like displays of the finest cuts of meat will make you view a carnivorous lifestyle in a whole new light. With a boutique feel, and a beautiful range of kitchen accessories this is a stop worth making on any food-lover’s itinerary.QK-12, Trumpet, 19 Keyes Ave (cnr Jellicoe Ave), Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5552. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Sun. 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE COUNTESS Everything handmade is a guiding precept of this steampunk-inspired restaurant located in an inventive doublestorey shipping container. Hearty home cooking meets the American South with lots of smoky and sweet barbecue flavours, excellent pickled vegetables, and an emphasis on comfort foods given a twist. Don’t leave without tasting the Pot de Crème, a supreme dessert.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361, thecountess.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri 11:30–22:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. RR. ULBXSW EB SOCIAL KITCHEN AND BAR You couldn't ask for a more novel setting then this restaurant set in one of the city's best bookshops. Led by much-awarded Australian chef Russell Armstrong, EB Social Kitchen is famed for its sophisticated but comforting plates of food inspired by Mediterranean and Asian cusines. For starters try the haloumi kataifi balls with lemon mayo, one of our absolute favourites. A great option if you have the appetite for many different tastes is to order the set-price chef’s selection of dishes. The excellent wine list showcases a broad range of South African wines.QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00–15:00, tapas 15:00–17:00, dinner 17:30–21:30 (kitchen closes), 22:30 (bar closes). Sun 12:00–17:00. RRR L johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

THE ORBIT BISTRO NEW Braamfontein’s The Orbit Jazz Club and Bistro has built a reputation as a home for local jazz music lovers and Joburg visitors, and Malawian-born chef Roderick Phiri has made sure that his menu is not just a side order, but another reason to visit. Showcasing South African ingredients and produce, Phiri’s dishes marry a variety of flavours with influences from his time spent of working as a chef in London. Try the beetroot-cured salmon or beetroot and feta salad, great variations on a staple vegetable.QC-3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit.co.za. Open 16:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 16:30–23:00. Closed Mon. RR-RRRR. VIEW RESTAURANT Four Season’s The Westcliff’s flagship restaurant has a bright new chef at the helm, Durban-born Farrel Hirsch, who arrives with experience of working in the kitchens of one of the world’s top-rated restaurants – Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen by Luke Dale-Roberts. September sees the launch of “Preview” – a bar-inspired casual dining experience offering small plates and delightful drinks.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, viewrestaurant.co.za, tel. +27 11 481 6000. Open 18:00–21:30. Closed Mon, Sun. RRRR.

The Countess, Melville

Anthea Pokroy

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MARKET FOOD For great people-watching opportunities, a choice of global cuisines and a lively, local atmosphere, head to one of Joburg’s many food and craft markets (see Shopping). On Saturdays drop by the lunchtime market at 27 Boxes in Melville (a night market is planned for summer) where there’s an ever-changing selection of stalls serving up a range of cuisines. Some of our regular favourites are the cronuts from X & O Cronuts, and delicious stoneground flour breads from Baker Brothers (75 4th Ave, Melville, 27boxes.co.za, tel. +27 11 482 1090. Open 10:00– 14:00). On Thursdays and Saturdays visit Bryanston Organic & Natural Market, a great place to pick up homemade farmhouse foods and organic fruit and vegetables. Enjoy sweet or savoury crepes at La Cuisine du Jardin, vegan soul food at Organic Leaves and gluten-free South Indian dosas from Meera’s. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays the foodhall-style 1 Fox Market opens downtown. Taste the Neapolitan-style pizzas at Pionieri Pizzeria and decadent pastries and desserts from Ted Zaki, who also serves a weekend high tea (1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, 1fox. co.za. Open Fri 12:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–16:00.) At Rosebank Sunday Market, a great shopping destination for locally made crafts, vintage items and accessories, there’s plenty of food stalls to choose from, including Andy Choo’s Chili Padi serving irresistible and spicy Malaysian rendang curries, and King Arabic Sandwich for excellent hummus and falafel. City Central is located in the heart of Joburg’s historic mining district. Formerly the location of Barclays Bank South Africa HQ, the building now houses a weekday foodhall, coffee shop, bar and bookshop (D-5, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 838 9879. Open 08:00–18:00).

AFRICAN JAMES XVI ETHIOPIAN A tiny no-frills Ethiopian café in fashionable Maboneng selling traditional cuisine in huge portions. The menu is brief and the welcoming owner, James Wondeson, is always on hand to guide you through the day’s specials.QUnit 9, Maverick Cnr, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 340 2020. Open 07:00–18:30, Sun 07:00–15:00. YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB You couldn’t wish for a better tour guide to the tastes of the pan-African melting pot that is Yeoville than Sanza Sandile. Even top chef Anthony Bourdain agrees. At his Yeoville dinner club on bustling Rockey Street, Sanza serves up a ‘Pan Afrikan Plate’ long table dinner made with ingredients sourced from the neighbourhood market and local kitchens. Space is limited and prior booking is essential.QCall Sanza on +27 83 447 4235 and check out Yeoville Dinner Club on Facebook. Costs R400 per person. September 2017 – January 2018

Neighbourhood hotspot ALICE LANE PRECINCT This impressive new outdoor precinct, opposite the back entrance of Sandton City, is setting a new standard for pedestrianised spaces in Sandton. THE GRILLHOUSE SANDTON NEW This new branch of the pricey New York-style grillhouse and bar serves excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations are recommended. The expansive bar and terrace with panoramic views is a popular place for after-work drinks. WISHBONE CAFE & BISTRO BAR NEW Catering largely to Sandton’s corporate army, this stylish bistro with a menu of sushi, burgers, salads, pizza and pasta offers an ‘express lunch’ sushi, soup and salad combo, very convenient for those pressed for time on a lunch break. The terrace, with its contemporary sculptures by local artists, is also a pleasant spot to wait out the Sandton traffic over a glass of wine or two.

EATING OUT IN SANDTON

ALSO IN THE AREA Wishbone Cafe & Bistro Bar, Sandton

Anthea Pokroy

There’s more to Sandton than just business and mall shopping. Take your pick from succulent steaks, casual café fare, Asian delights and delicious sushi and seafood. Here we’ve picked out our favourite food destinations within a two-kilometre radius of the Sandton Gautrain station.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE

SANDTON CITY

Tourists flock to the square for a selfie with the extremely tall sculpture that pays homage to South Africa’s greatest leader and statesman, and there’s good reason to linger.

Wall to wall with a covetable selection of local and international brands that will warm any committed shopper’s heart, the ‘city’ also has some worthwhile food stops.

THE BIG MOUTH This slick joint with its marble counters and brass fittings has raised the tone of what used to be a tired tourist trap serving sad pizzas. The innovative Asian-inspired menu offers plenty of variety. Signature sushi dishes include the fish and chips roll with crispy hake or choose from the salad bowls, sushi bowls, ceviche, grills or pan dishes.

DELI ONE A great lunch stop hidden deep inside the mall. You’ll find a wide choice of fresh salads, Mediterranean-inspired mains, decent coffee (in large cups) and fresh-baked goods. A popular spot, you might need to wait to get a table, but it will be worth it. Located on Lower Level 1 near Woolworths.

PAPPAS ON THE SQUARE This family-run Greek restaurant has been serving up comforting Greek-Cypriot cuisine for decades. The super succulent and juicy lamb kleftiko is the standout dish or try the grilled fish of the day. Keep it simple with the ‘Pappas dessert’, thick Greek yoghurt with nuts and honey.

KRUNCH A great value and healthy takeout spot in Sandton City’s food court. Build your own salad by selecting a base from the checklist, add a house item, garnish, something crunchy, a superfood and any one of 13 dressings. Also in the Alice Lane Precinct.

TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE ‘African glamour’ inspired this branch of the chic local res taurant and café chain Tashas. The decor is dramatically elegant adding atmosphere to what was previously an unremarkable corner of the mall. Order from the extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu or from Tashas “signature” dishes.

WALNUT GROVE Suspended neatly between the shopping hubbub is this elegant café (first opened in 1975). There is an attractive dessert display and an enticing breakfast selection (served until 11:00). Come hungry as whatever the time of day, Walnut Grove serves American-size portions.

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

BANCHAN An unassuming family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes. The tofu, kimchi, sauces and marinades are all homemade, and the wine list consists only of traditional drinks like rice wines, soju and gamju. Bring a group and tuck into a traditional Korean barbecue or drop by for a lunch of thick noodle soup or spicy bibimbap (mixed rice bowl). THE BULL RUN This elegant old building attached to Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton was once a countryside tea room. Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Sandton’s financial district. The Bull Run is serious about its meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery. There’s also a fine selection of vintage brandies, whiskies, cognacs and port. CURRY AND ALL Famous for its bunny chow (a hollowed-out bread loaf filled with curry) this takeaway spot with limited indoor seating specialises in traditional Durban Indian curries sold in roti, bunny chows and biryanis. The food is flavoursome, prices are low and portions are huge. There’s also a food truck, usually parked outside Sandhurst Centre at 60 Rivonia Road. STELLE NEW Relocated from Parkview, this Northern-Italian-inspired restaurant is now housed in Acorn Lane, a rambling and secluded estate shaded by acorn trees, and surprisingly within easy walking distance of busy Sandton central. The restaurant is spacious and flows out into a large and picturesque courtyard and garden The menu offers plenty of delicious options with seasonal specials. Finish your meal with their lighter-than-light choux pastry selection. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

DIRECTORY NELSON MANDELA SQUARE L-9, access via 5th St (parking) or West St (pedestrian). THE BIG MOUTHQTel. +27 63 293 8869, thebigmouth.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00–22:00. RRR. PAPPAS ON THE SQUAREQTel. +27 11 884 9991/2, pappasrestaurant.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00– 20:30. RR-RRR. TASHASQTel. +27 11 883 0389, tashascafe.com. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00–22:30, Sun and public holidays 07:00–21:30. RR-RRR. SANDTON CITY L-9, access via 5th St or Rivonia Rd (pedestrian) or Sandton Dr (parking). DELI ONEQTel. +27 11 608 2998, delione.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. R-RR. KRUNCHQTel. +27 11 784 3198, krunch.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Fri, Sat 09:00– 21:00, Sun 10:00–18:00. WALNUT GROVEQTel. +27 11 783 6111, walnutgrove.co.za. Open 07:00–21:00, Fri ,Sat 07:00–22:00. ALICE LANE PRECINCT L-9, 11 Alice Lane. THE GRILLHOUSEQTel. +27 11 783 6132, thegrillhouse. co.za/grillhouse-sandton. Open 12:00–22:00. RRR. WISHBONE CAFE AND BISTRO BARQTel. +27 11 883 2399, wishbonebistro.co.za. Open 09:00–21:00, Sat 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. RR. ALSO IN THE AREA BANCHANQL‑8, Cnr 10th St and Elizabeth St, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269. Open Mon 17:00–21:00, Tue–Fri 11:30–14:00 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 10:30–21:00. RR. THE BULL RUNQM‑8, Protea Hotel Balalaika, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 884 1400, thebullrun.co.za. Open 12:00–22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R75. CURRY AND ALLQM‑10, Behind Shell Garage, Cnr Rivonia Rd and South Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 84 603 2466. Open 10:30–20:00. Closed Sun. R. STELLEQL‑9, 61 Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 646 6996, stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. (FOR ALL MAP REFERENCES SEE MAPS ON PP. 64–67 )

Pappas on the Square, Sandton September 2017 – January 2018

Joburg’s art neighbourhoods ROSEBANK

We Live In Silence V, Kudzanai Chiurai

ART CITY In Joburg you don’t need to travel far to find some of the best contemporary art that Africa has to offer. Joburg’s art calendar is one of the city most enlivening aspects with two major annual art fairs; the Turbine Art Fair in July and September’s huge FNB Joburg Art Fair. In addition to this every week brings with it a new art exhibition opening at one of the city’s many independent art galleries, and every month a First Thursdays art party (see What’s On). Broadly speaking the city’s art scene is centred around these neighbourhoods: Rosebank, Braamfontein and the eastern downtown districts of Maboneng and Ellis Park. While there are a number of galleries in the northern suburbs these are scattered across Sandton, Melrose and Birdhaven. The inner city’s streets are peppered with eye-catching public artworks, both historical and contemporary, while graffiti artists from South Africa and abroad continue to bring fresh life to public spaces with colourful murals. The trend has even caught on in upmarket neighbourhoods like Rosebank and Sandton. In city districts Braamfontein, Maboneng and Newtown in particular, street art is actively encouraged with famous international names invited to leave their mark on the urban landscape. Welcome to art city. 34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Goodman Gallery

BRAAMFONTEIN With Wits University on its doorstep and an abundance of boutiques and cool bars, the streets of ‘Braam’ (as the cool kids call it) are populated by students, fixie bike cyclists, bearded baristas, street fashion rebels and other young and creative types, making it arguably Joburg’s hipster capital. A great place to start an art exploration of this colourful neighbourhood is at Wits Art Museum (WAM). WAM has one of the biggest collections of contemporary and historical African art in the country (only a fraction of which is ever on display at one time) and hosts regular exhibitions that showcase this superb collection. From here wander through the busy streets to Grayscale Gallery at 33 De Korte Street, Joburg’s only art gallery dedicated exclusively to graffiti art. Two blocks down at 153 Smit Street you can’t miss Kalashnikovv Gallery with its ivy-covered facade and cuttingedge exhibitions by young and emerging artists that often feature digital and graffiti elements. Just around the corner at 62 Juta Street is Stevenson gallery, known for its provocative and thought-provoking contemporary exhibitions and installations by edgy local artists. Also in Braamfontein is the Constitutional Court, a treasure trove of historical and contemporary South African art. Part of the former prison-complex-turned-heritagelandmark Constitution Hill, inside the halls and chambers of the modern court building (open to the public) are decorated with a marvellous collection of specially commissioned artworks reflecting the values of South Africa’s Constitution. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Along a 1.6km stretch of the major thoroughfare, Jan Smuts Avenue, that links the suburb of Rosebank to Parkwood there are more than a dozen art galleries to explore. Start your exploration at Keyes Art Mile on the corner of Jellicoe and Keyes Avenues, a 10-minute walk from the Rosebank Gautrain Station and Rosebank Mall. On the corner is the architectural landmark Circa Gallery with its circular structure and metal fins reaching into the sky, and on the opposite side of the street is sister gallery Everard Read, both of which showcase contemporary paintings and sculpture by some of the biggest names in South African art. Next to Circa is Keyes Art Mile’s Trumpet building, another impressive landmark housing exclusive design boutiques, cafés and galleries SMAC Gallery and Southern Guild & Whatiftheworld. On the upper floors you’ll find the exclusive Mesh Club and its stunning cocktail bar 4PM at Mesh, which is decorated with an ever-changing display of local contemporary art (see Nightlife). Two city blocks from Keyes Art Mile at the corner of Bolton Road and Jan Smuts Avenue is the start of Art Gallery Row. One of the most striking buildings here is Goodman Gallery, promoting A-list South African and international artists and photographers the likes of world-renowned William Kentridge, and photo men David Goldblatt and Mikhael Subotzky. A few doors up behind a peacock-blue wall is the superb David Krut Bookstore with its fine collection of art books, while next door is fine art gallery Lizamore & Associates. A little further up the street Kim Sacks Gallery specialises in ceramics, authentic African artefacts and fine beadwork pieces. On the opposite side of Jan Smuts Avenue more galleries await. Visit Gallery 2 for fine art and painting and David Krut Projects, Joburg’s best-known print-making gallery and art book publisher and stop in for coffee at Priest Espresso Bar in between them, with its eye-catching feature wall by artist Peter Mammes and a small exhibition space in the back. Also in the area is Gallery MOMO, known for its exciting exhibitions by contemporary African artists.

MABONENG & ELLIS PARK The work of a single property-development company, the inner-city district of Maboneng first emerged in 2008 when local developer and entrepreneur Jonathan Liebmann bought up dozens of rundown industrial warehouses and factories on the eastern edge of the inner city and set about transforming them. Some of the first people to buy into the vision of this happening new neighbourhood were artists and today the area is characterised by its innovative architecture, happening bars and restaurants and many artist studios. One of the first buildings to be developed was the appropriately named Arts on Main, now home to the print studio of leading printmakers David Krut Projects as well as the Centre for the Less Good Idea, the collaborative arts space led by globally renowned artist William Kentridge. Two blocks over on Commissioner Street is The Cosmopolitan, an extraordinary Victorian-era hotel (defacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

signed in 1899) that has been sensitively restored. There’s a bar, restaurant, coffee shop and tea room that look out onto a sculpture garden and set across the former hotel rooms on the first floor is the contemporary Hazard Gallery. Also in the area you’ll find The AGOG a three-storey building that is home to the edgy AGOG Gallery, The Nine Barrels wine bar, and exclusive rooftop whisky bar Q Club. Nearby is one of the city’s most exciting art studios August House who host regular open days for studio visits. Near Maboneng is the Ellis Park Precinct where you will find the six-storey building Ellis House (H-3, 23 Voorhout St) which houses two contemporary art galleries, temporary exhibition spaces, artist studios and the beautiful Piece@ Ellis House shop (see Shopping). On the ground floor is ROOM, an innovative independent gallery that promotes artists working in a variety of mediums, including film and photography (tel. +27 11 074 4944, roomgallery.co.za. Open 11:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon). On the fifth floor is the massive Art Eye Gallery occupying some 2000m2, which includes space for artists residencies and an abundance of exciting artworks on sale. Tel. + 27 71 386 2198, arteye.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun.

ART IT IS

The tagline of this knockout triple-volume glass-walled contemporary space next to Rosebank is “curating South Africa’s undiscovered art”. A refreshing upstart on Joburg’s art gallery scene, Art It Is showcases works by an incredibly diverse range of artists, among them emerging artists and more well-known names. The gallery space stands out among its suburban surroundings for its uber-cool industrial design. The gallery supports and encourages new artists with an emphasis on building fair and transparent relationships that benefit both the artist and the gallery. Art It Is is focused on making art accessible to a wide audience and making the gallery space accessible to artists so you’ll find works starting from as little as R2,000 up to sky’s the limit. Pieces range from prints to large sculptural works with the vast spaces of the gallery displaying an enormous range of artworks to their best effect. Art It Is also has a gallery in Cape Town, and is a firm fixture on the monthly First Thursdays art party schedule.QJ-12, 11 Chester Rd, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 6961, artitis. co.za. 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. September – December 2017 35

Art exhibitions FNB JOBURG ART FAIR

The Dark Continent No. IX, 2016, Lina Iris Viktor Mariane Ibrahim Gallery, FNB Joburg Art Fair

One of the highlights of Joburg’s annual art calendar, FNB JoburgArtFair attracts up to 10,000 people over one weekend each year for a major art and social event. The fair showcases some of the most impressive contemporary art from South Africa, and across the African continent, including sculpture, painting, photography, prints and multimedia installations. This year the fair celebrates its 10th year, and boasts 60 exhibitors from twelve countries including Ethiopia, Kenya, Nigeria, Uganda, Angola, the USA, Belgium and Germany, plus an exciting programme of art talks, film screenings and special exhibitions. Highlights of the 2017 fair include the open-air film screening on Nelson Mandela Square (on the evening of Friday 08.09) and an exhibition looking at the work of contemporary South African artists pre-1994 curated by Dr. Zoe Whitley, of London’s Tate Modern.QSandton Convention Centre, Sandton Central, fnbjoburgartfair.co.za. Tickets R150, weekend pass R250.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 29.09 FRIDAY MOSHEKWA LANGA I MAME DIARRA NIANG Award-winning artist and visual anthropologist Moshekwa Langa’s work combines drawing, graffiti, video and sculptures made from unusual materials like corrugated iron and cement bags; while French-born self-taught artist and photographer Mame-Diarra Niang explores themes of place, drawing on her experiences of growing up between Ivory Coast, Senegal and France.QStevenson Gallery UNTIL 30.09 SATURDAY LIBERTY BATTSON 2014 ABSA L’Atelier award-winner Liberty Battson’s preferred medium is automotive paint, which she uses to create boldly coloured and glossy paintings filled with lines, circles and repeated shapes.QCirca Gallery UNTIL 30.09 SATURDAY LIONEL SMIT Best known for his monumentally-sized canvas portraits and sculptures of the female form, Lionel Smit's large scale works are captivating and frequently challenge the way we perceive the everyday. Much admired at home and abroad, one of Smit's huge bronze sculptures is installed at Union Square in New York City.QEverard Read UNTIL 07.10 SATURDAY TODD GRAY Award-winning American photographer and artist Todd Gray’s installations use re-contextualised images to critique the capitalisation of black identity in pop culture. Gray’s works feature a beguiling mix of high and low culture, drawn from his experiences as Michael Jackson’s personal photographer. QGallery MOMO 36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 08.10 SUNDAY WARHOL UNSCREENED With more than 80 screen prints from the impressive Bank of America Merrill Lynch art collection, this is a not-to-be-missed opportunity to view some of Andy Warhol’s most famous images. Among them is the American Pop artist’s 1981 series of animal prints, and his distinctive take on popular 20th Century American pop culture icons.QWITS Art Museum UNTIL 14.10 SATURDAY KUDZANAI CHIURAI: WE LIVE IN SILENCE Zimbabwean-born photographer and artist Kudzanai Chiurai grapples with the intricacies of colonialism and its effects on African nations in his thought-provoking and theatrically posed montages. In this new series, Chiurai delves further into the notion that African nations have evolved to support colonial futures.QGoodman Gallery UNTIL 15.10 SUNDAY QUINTEN EDWARD WILLIAMS Painter and artist Quinten Edward Williams’s works deal with the complex interactions between the artist, the mediums used and the environment in which the artist works. Introspective, Williams tackles the making of art, from its infancy as an idea to its effect on the viewer.QDavid Krut Projects UNTIL 04.11 SATURDAY PORKY HEFER South African designer and artist Porky Hefer has gained renown on the global design circuit for his 'nest environments', whimsical and larger-than-life hanging chairs that playfully reference the natural environment. A selection of these is on show at the gallery.QSouthern Guild and Whatiftheworld Gallery johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Walter Battiss, Calligraphic Forms

Estimate: R300 000 - 500 000

Important South African and International Art Auction, Monday 13 November 2017, The Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg Preview 10 - 12 November

Enquiries 011 728 8246 jhb@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

Art exhibitions 5.10 THURSDAY – 10.11 FRIDAY STEVEN COHEN Performance artist Steven Cohen explores a broad range of weighty themes. He describes his often controversial, but always memorable, performances as a “digital painting of a social reality, half beautifully imagined, half horribly real.”QStevenson Gallery

26.10 THURSDAY – 20.11 MONDAY ZWELETHU MACHEPA Emerging artist Zwelethu Machepa has been steadily gaining renown and his work has been featured in prestigious exhibitions. Machepa uses traditional mediums like printmaking and stitchwork to create larger-than-life portraiture of the ubiquitous waste-pickers of the city. QIn Toto Gallery

05.10 THURSDAY – 28.10 SATURDAY ANGUS TAYLOR Sculptor Angus Taylor’s larger-than-life artworks utilise natural materials and metals in ingenious ways to create otherworldly human-like forms.QEverard Read

16.11 THURSDAY – 12.01.18 FRIDAY NANDIPHA MNTAMBO Award-winning artist and sculptor Nandipha Mntambo is known for her work focusing on the human female body. Mntambo uses her body as a mould for her artworks and only natural, organic materials to portray and explore identities.QStevenson Gallery

08.10 SUNDAY – 12.11 SUNDAY WHERE IS KOVNO? South African artists Yda Walt, Cheryl Rumbak and Philip Miller created this moving multimedia installation as a memorial to the murdered Lithuanian Jews of Kaunas. The work is complemented by images taken by internationallyacclaimed photographer David Goldblatt.QJohannesburg Holocaust and Genocide Centre, 1 Duncombe Rd, Forest Town, tel +27 11 640 3100, jhbholocaust.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Book a guided tour. 12.10 THURSDAY – 18.11 SATURDAY KENRICK MCFARLANE Jamaican-American artist Kenrick McFarlane meshes Renaissance-style painting with synthetic coloured cartoons in his fragile works. He relays the complex struggles and triumphs of post-colonial Africa and its diaspora.QGallery MOMO

25.11 SATURDAY – 20.12 WEDNESDAY EL ANATSUI: MEYINA (‘I AM GOING’) Ghanaian artist El Anatsui transforms found materials such as bottle caps into complex sculptures and collages. The artist critically engages with daily life by contrasting African history with the post-colonial present.QGoodman Gallery 23.11 THURSDAY – 3.02.18 SATURDAY VITSHOIS MWILAMBWE BONDO Known for his activism and politically-charged art and performances, Kinshasa-born artist Vitshois Mwilambwe Bondo conceptualises the human body as a territory of pain and expression, using popular international fashion magazines to create intricate collages.QGallery MOMO

GALLERY DIRECTORY

Every Woman, 2016, silk tapestry, Billie Zangewa, FNB Joburg Art Fair 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CIRCA AND EVERARD READQK-12, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, circaonjellicoe.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT PROJECTSQK-12, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0627, davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GALLERY MOMOQK-12, 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. GOODMAN GALLERYQK-12, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. IN TOTO GALLERYQM-11, Birdhaven Centre, 66 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 447 6543, intotogallery. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. SOUTHERN GUILD & WHATIFTHEWORLDQK-12, Trumpet, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, tel. +27 79 490 7293, southernguild.co.za. Open 09.30–17.00, Sat 09.30–16.00. Closed Mon, Sun. STEVENSONQC-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. WITS ART MUSEUMQB-2, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

A view of downtown from Maboneng

Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and nightlife districts. The only tricky bit is that the main nightlife areas are spread across the city so plan your night out in advance. If drinking, take a taxi or book an Uber (see p. 17). For the latest gigs, festivals and other events check out our What’s on calendar online at iyp.me/johannesburg/ events. From around mid-December to early January some bars close for the holidays so call to check on open hours.

BARS WITH A VIEW EB SOCIAL KITCHEN AND BAR This stylish bar and restaurant located inside a bookstore has floor-to-ceiling windows offering splendid views. Cocktails are inspired by literary classics and there’s an excellent South African wine list. The kitchen is led by muchawarded Australian chef Russell Armstrong.QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar. co.za. Open 11.30–14:00, 17:30–22:00, Sun 11:30– 15:00. ULW FLAMES The terrace at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff’s urban casual dining spot Flames is one of the most famous sundowner locations in the city. Perched high upon the Westcliff ridge with a magnificent view over the verdant northern suburbs, you get to watch Hadeda Ibis fly overhead as the sky turns a dozen shades of pink. Sip on wine or craft beer and enjoy Flames’ casual grill menu. QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6190, flamesrestaurant. co.za. Open 06:30–21:30. LB 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Curiocity African Design Hostels

LIVING ROOM A little garden in the sky filled with exotic plants that snake their way around the eco-friendly furniture. More of a cafe-bar, the Living Room is at its most happening on Sunday afternoons for the Sundays in the Living Room party when the rooftop fills up for sundowners against a memorable urban backdrop.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St (Main Change building, 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Wed 11:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–19:00. Admission R60 before 16:00, R80 thereafter, R50 when booked online. LB MARBLE The bar at star chef David Higgs’s rooftop grill restaurant, with its impressive artworks, a turquoise ceramictiled wall and light wooden floors, gives the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky. Uninterrupted views stretch west for miles. There’s an extensive and prominently displayed wine cellar and a pricey list of topnotch cocktails made with premium spirits.QK‑12, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, marble.restaurant. Open 12:00–22:00. UB SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE This warehouse space with a Sandton skyline view is a veritable explorer’s treasure chest, stuffed with a covetable collection of antiques and other items of curiosity from across the world. Only open on Wednesdays and on the first Sunday of the month, the retro party music, broad selection of craft beers and fun yet sensibly restrained patrons are likely to make you forget it’s only Thursday tomorrow.Q6 Desmond St (below Katy’s Palace Bar), Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235. Open Wed 16:00–24:00. LB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

COCKTAILS

WINE BARS

AL LADO NEW Look for the bouncer guarding an unmarked door on the corner and climb the stairs to find your way into this theatrical cocktail and tapas bar that shares the same warehouse building as the popular Che Argentine Grill. Late on weekends there’s a club-like atmosphere as house and electro beats from the resident DJs get the party started. On the menu expect plenty of sweet-sour craft gin and rumbased cocktails prepared with Latino flare.QH‑5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0140. Open 11:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Tue. UILEBW

ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this chic little wine bar has a superb selection of South African boutique wines that you won’t find anywhere else. Labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events. Order a bottle (one glass is never enough) and enjoy it with a plate of French nibbles. QK‑11, Albans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, acepearl.com. Open Tue–Thu 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00– 23:00, Sat 17:00–22:00. Closed Sun, Mon. B

4PM AT MESH Join the sophisticated business set at this sexy cocktail lounge, housed in a private members’ club in the Trumpet building on the art and design-inspired Keyes Art Mile. A new cocktail debuts on the menu each month, using a classic recipe as a base and given a twist. Savour your drink with a fabulous view over Joburg’s tree-filled suburbs. We favour the Corpse Reviver, a gin-based cocktail first named in 1889 – equal parts Cointreau, Caperitif (a classy South African fortified wine), Absinthe and orange zest for flavour.QK‑12, Trumpet, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub.co.za. Open 16:00–23:00. BLIND TIGER CAFÉ NEW Stepping through the door of this bar on Parkview’s quaint village-like high street is like walking into another city, perhaps Chicago or Paris, where the glamorous and crazy 1920s have been brough back to life. Jazz music swings in the background and moreish cocktails inspired by Fitzgerald’s age-defining novel The Great Gatsby are conjured up by friendly barmen who’ll remember you for next time.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 76 030 4200, blindtiger.co.za. Open 15:00–24:00, Mon 14:00–20:00, Fri 14:00–24:00. Closed Sun. UBW

THE NINE BARRELS This wine and tapas bar shares space with a contemporary art gallery and a rooftop whisky and cigar lounge in the AGOG building, a former industrial building in the trendy Maboneng precinct. The meticulously crafted wine menu showcases excellent local boutique wines that you won’t usually find in the shops. The urban-chic atmosphere is understated and sophisticated, all bare brick walls, chandeliers made from recycled bottles and tables that spill out onto the street. Regular events include jazz nights, wine tastings and tango classes.QG-4, 12 Lower Ross St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 458, theninebarrels. com. Open 11:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Tue. WINESENSE Part wine bar, part wine merchant. Request a taster card on arrival which you can load up with money and use to help yourself to samples of dozens of great wines at a wide range of prices. Alternatively whole bottles can just as easily be ordered to be enjoyed there or to take away.QM-12, 1 Melrose Sq, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1487. Open 09:00–22:00. Sun 10:00–20:00. ULB

LOUNGE 55 To the left is the casual fine-dining tapas restaurant Workshop 55 and to the right Lounge 55, whose decor takes its inspiration from the glamorous cocktail lounges of 1920s Miami. Both venues specialise in gin with fresh fruit and herb infusions and there’s a massive selection of unusual and rare craft labels to try and expensive craft tonics to mix them with.QJ-12, 55 7th Avenue, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55.co.za. Open 16:00–24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. ULBW SIX COCKTAIL BAR A studenty Melville institution that’s been around for years and offers literally dozens of cocktail choices. With a 2-4-1 happy hour every day from 12:00–19:00, there’s ample time to try them. The bestseller is the potent Excitabull (vodka, berries, Red Bull and a hint of Stroh) or try the fruity and tropical June Bug.Q5 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 8306/+27 83 623 7950. Open 12:00–02:00. Kitchen closes 01:00. W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

4PM at Mesh, Rosebank

Jess Sara Wright

September 2017 – January 2018

Nightlife

BEER GARDENS

HOTEL BARS

MAD GIANT Part of the smart downtown 1 Fox Precinct (also check Markets), a collection of redesigned century-old warehouses, the brewery shares space with the celebrated Urbanologi restaurant and out front there’s a spacious and sunny beer garden with a grill serving tasty burgers and Mad Giant’s signature craft beers. Daily brewery tours available.QB‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St (parking at 14 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, madgiant. co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. ULEB

THE BANNISTER BAR There’s something almost tropical about this hotel bar with it’s abundant potted palms, whirring ceiling fans and a fresh breeze wafting in through the wide open windows overlooking a fashionable section of downtown De Beer Street. There’s craft beer on tap and a live music space in the basement.QC‑3, Bannister Hotel, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel. co.za. Open 11:00–24:00. Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00. Closed Sun, Mon. EW

REPUBLIC OF 94 Boasting one of the city’s longest bars (more than 14m) this sophisticated Braamfontein den also has a massive courtyard beer garden. The name celebrates South Africa’s democracy declared in 1994. A more grown up alternative to the area’s many student hangouts.QC‑3, 94 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 10 595 1094. Open 12:30–02:00, Sun 12:30–23:00. Closed Mon-Wed. EB

THE HIDEOUT Part of the Curiocity African Design Hostel, this is a good place to meet fellow travellers. Grab a seat on the streetside terrace or dip your feet in the hot tub in the backyard. Once the premises of Pacific Press, whose owners clandestinely printed anti-apartheid publications, it is rumoured that Nelson Mandela occasionally took refuge here.QG‑5, Curiocity Backpackers, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 72 880 9583, curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 07:00–22:00. LBW

STANLEY BEER YARD The converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley with its pretty interlinked courtyards is a chilled place to spend a warm evening. Settle in at one of the long tables under the trees in the beer garden and quench your thirst with a choice of South African craft beers.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open 10:30-22:00, Sun 10:00–18:00. Closed Mon. EBW

Lounge 55, Parktown North 42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE IMMIGRANT Adjoining the Once in Joburg ‘flashpackers’ hostel, The Immigrant attracts a fun-loving twenty-something party crowd. The bar is especially lively on weekends when the large two-tiered terrace overlooking Braamfontein’s busy Grove Square, swells with crowds drawn in by the house beats. There’s a decent craft beer selection or order one of the signature citrus-based jam jar cocktails.QC‑3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 443 0084. Open 07:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30–01:00. ULEBSW

81 de Korte Street Braamfontein Tel: +27 (0)11 339 66 45 E-mail: info@theorbit.co.za www.theorbit.co.za Image: Siphiwe Mhlambi

THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt Regency’s courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. Enjoy drinks and cigars, with the noise of the city completely muffled and, instead, replaced with birds tweeting overhead and water trickling into infinity pools nestled under romantically lit palm trees.QL‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 12:00–23:00. ULB

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience at this highly respected jazz club. A slick bistro greets you downstairs, while upstairs the bar and a stage surrounded by tables await – reservations for these are advised. As well as jazz gigs, The Orbit also hosts regular events such as the excellent monthly Science & Cocktails evening, the En Fuego salsa night with a live salsa band and free open mic jams on Sundays at 17:00. Check out the weekly concert schedule on The Orbit website.QC‑3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00. Closed Mon. Tickets for concerts from R60. Students get 50% off with a valid student card. EB

LIVE MUSIC AND JAZZ CLUBS

PUBS

THE GOOD LUCK BAR Behind a pair of hulking triple-volume doors bearing decades-old warnings against the dangers of dynamite is this spacious warehouse-turned-live-music-club. Named in honour of the early 1890s drinking establishments that were said to have operated from this location during Joburg’s gold rush, there are gigs every weekend. Featuring everything from country and folk to Afrobeat and heavy metal and occasional club nights.QB‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 84 683 4413, goodluckbar.co.za. LEB

KITCHENER’S CARVERY BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something pretentious. By day it’s a quiet pub; by night DJs spin soul, funk and electro and there are occasional live music performances. Cover charges apply after 19:00 from Wed–Sat. QC‑3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–04:00, Sun– Tue 10:00–02:00. EB

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GILES PUB AND RESTAURANT The glass-fronted restaurant area can lack atmosphere when not busy, but the long bar at the front of the pub which faces out onto a leafy suburban street, always hums with all types of visitors. Popular with rugby fans, the obliging staff are also more than happy to use the many TV screens to accommodate football followers too.QJ-11, 9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 4056. Open 12:30–22:00. LBW THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British fashion for gastropubs, The Griffin deals in craft beers and posh pub food with friendly staff that have a good sense of humour and a knack for remembering you for next time. Look out for the popular pub quiz nights on Wednesdays.QL‑11, Cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, thegriffin.co.za. Open 16:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–16:30. Closed Mon. BW THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen better days, this historic pub still brims with warmth and character. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the bar only add to The Radium’s unique charm.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–24:00. Admission R100-R120 on Saturday nights. E September 2017 – January 2018

Sightseeing

Sightseeing MUSEUMS APARTHEID MUSEUM An extraordinary museum that brings to life the horrors of apartheid: from the petty cruelties inflicted on the everyday lives of black South Africans then to state repression and violence. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. We recommend you give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R80, kids, pensioners and students R65. Not suitable for kids under 12. K Closed 25.12 and 01.01.

The Women’s Gaol at Constitution Hill, Braamfontein

TOP 10 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS While Joburg may not have a majestic mountain or picturesque beaches to admire, what it lacks in natural splendour it more than makes up for with its rich history, burgeoning art scene and colourful street life. Whether you have only one day or several, here’s our pick of 10 essential sightseeing experiences.

 RIDE THE RED BUS

 LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY

 BOOK AN INNER-CITY WALKING TOUR

To get an in-depth view of South Africa’s complex history visit the extensive Apartheid Museum or take a tour of Constitution Hill, the site of a former prison and home to the impressive Constitutional Court. Other must-visit places that offer profound historical insights include Liliesleaf (once the headquarters of the underground resistance) and Sophiatown The Mix that tells the heartbreaking story of the forced removals from this suburb in 1955.

 TRACE YOUR ORIGINS

Visit Maropeng visitors’ centre in the Cradle of Humankind to learn about the evolution of humankind and take a tour of the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of world-famous hominids Mrs Ples and Little Foot were found. The excellent Origins Centre in Braamfontein celebrates the 80,000-year history of humanity.

 SEE THE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL

The buildings of the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill in Braamfontein reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th Century South Africa, while also showcasing the bright, optimistic future of the country enshrined in the modern Constitutional Court.

 GOLD RUSH HISTORY

Visit the Ditsong Museum of Military History to learn about the Anglo-Boer Wars and more modern conflicts and to see engaging displays of vintage military paraphernalia. See how Joburg’s colonial middle-classes lived at the Victorian Lindfield House museum or stroll through downtown’s historic Main Street Mining District among the relics of Joburg’s early mining heritage.

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

If you have limited time and don’t have a car the best way to get around and see the sights is on the City Sightseeing Bus, whose two routes stop at all the major heritage landmarks. There’s also a link to the two-hour Sowetoo mini-bus tour of Soweto. Taking a guided walking tour is the best way to encounter the city for the first time and experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view. See p. 48 for our favourite Joburg walking tour companies.

 ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS Take a leisurely stroll through one of Joburg’s parks or head out of the city for an early morning hike through one of Gauteng’s many nature reserves. Running is an all-yearround activity here and there are plenty of welcoming running clubs.

 PHOTOGRAPH JOBURG’S JACARANDAS Each Spring, usually from early October to early November, a sea of purple petals from thousands of Jacaranda trees blooms above Joburg’s suburban streets.

 VISIT AN ART GALLERY Joburg has an exciting art scene and the city is blessed with several top contemporary art galleries, all of which are free to visit. Most art galleries are concentrated within the Braamfontein, Ellis Park, Maboneng and Rosebank neighbourhoods. See our feature starting on p. 34 for our guide to the city’s best art neighbourhoods, galleries and exhibitions.

 SPEND TIME IN SOWETO With a rich history, vibrant contemporary social scene and plenty of fun experiences on offer, Soweto has become one of the country’s top tourist attractions. Take a tour with a local guide or follow the tourist trail along famous Vilakazi Street. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum was once the offices of the city’s first black law firm – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheid’s restrictions. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of a young Nelson Mandela. Walk one block west to visit 1 Fox Precinct, home of 1 Fox Market Shed and Mad Giant brewery.QC‑5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars, illustrated by an impressive range of military vehicles, uniforms and weaponr y.Q22 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Admission R45, kids R35, pensioners R25. ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team by wearing a Springbok jersey here during the 1995 World Cup Final between the Springboks and the All Blacks. This quirky rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia. Fans can also book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium.QG‑3, Emirates Airline Park (formerly Ellis Park Stadium), 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 61 400 4883 or +27 11 402 2960, ellispark.co.za. Open 10:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Call in advance to book a visit. Admission R50, kids R20. Closed 25.12 and 01.01. FERREIRA MINE STOPE A long forgotten mine entrance was discovered in the 1980s during the construction of the Standard Bank building and has since been preserved as a museum. A small exhibition, illustrated by photographs and old maps, details how Joburg’s first gold prospectors operated and there is also an array of old-fashioned mining equipment such as gas lamps and pickaxes on display.QD-5, Standard Bank, 5 Simmonds St, City Centre. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–13:00. Closed Sun. Entrance is free. Closed 25.12 and 01.01. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Shadowboxer by Marco Cianfanelli

Justin Lee

CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the heart of the city. A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens. The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people, such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place. The inspiring court building represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection. Special Art and Justice tours of the building can be arranged or you can visit independently and even watch court proceedings taking place (the court is always is open to the public when in session). The Old Fort at the centre of the complex was built in 1893 and following the end of the Anglo-Boer Wars became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here when he was arrested in 1962. His cell now forms the Mandela Cell exhibition. Next door is the Women’s Gaol built in 1909 and at the centre of Constitution Hill is the notorious Number 4 prison block. Not for the faint-hearted, wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience. QD-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00– 17:00. Entrance to museum areas R65, kids, students R30, pensioners R45 (includes optional one-hour guided tour), entrance plus two-hour guided tour R85, kids, students R55, pensioners R60. Discounts available for groups and visitors using the City Sightseeing red bus. Book online at webtickets.co.za. See Whats’ On for details of the AfroPunk Festival taking place at Constitution Hill over New Year. September 2017 – January 2018

Sightseeing

Sightseeing JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT At Africa’s largest transport museum, the eclectic collection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motorbikes, horsedrawn wagons and even steam-powered tractors.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, tel. +27 11 435 9718, jhmt.org.za. Open 09:00–12:00, 13:00–16:30. Closed Mon. Admission is free. A City Sightseeing red bus stop. LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the ANC and where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated. Engrossing displays provide an in-depth look at the lives of the leaders who gathered here. Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf. co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. Admission R110 (includes a guided tour), kids R50, pensioners R40, students R60, kids under 7 free. Catch the free shuttle (Thu, Sat) from major Sandton hotels with a stop at the Bryanston Organic Market. K LINDFIELD HOUSE This unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Dressed in Victo rian garb Love guides you through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that conjure the everyday life of that era.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, lindfield. wix.com/museum. By appointment only. Tours from R50, kids, pensioners R30. High Tea R150 (booking essential).

MAROPENG AND THE STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the impressive visitors’ centre for the Cradle of Humankind, a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site, from where the world’s humanity emerged. Take a journey into humankind’s evolution led by interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day. A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves, where the remains of world-famous hominids were discovered. A 45-minute guided tour of the caves leaves ever y half-hour.QR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort (approx 30mins drive from Sandton), tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Visitor’s centre open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combination ticket (Maropeng and Caves) R190. Discounts for kids, students, pensioners. K ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum, located at the University of the Witwatersrand, explores the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80,000year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, including ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.QB‑2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, origins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Admission R80, pensioners R65, learners R45, students and kids under 12 R40. Closed 25.12 and 01.01.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908-1909 Gandhi lived here with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, a German-Jewish architect, who designed the house. He lived a simple meditative life, developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and non-violent civil disobedience). Their home is now a beautiful guesthouse and museum and offers visitors a contemplative and spiritual experience. The exhibits include photos, correspondence and beautifully displayed inspirational quotes.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com. Open 10:00–16:00. Admission free for South African citizens, R70 nonSouth African citizens. Closed 25.12 and 01.01. K SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its nonwhite residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma. It is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals. Walking tours of the suburb, led by residents of old Sophiatown, can be organised.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130/+27 11 673 1271, sophiatownthemix. com. Open 09:00–16:30. Closed Sun. Admission R60, Sof’town Urban Experience walking tour R185. Closed 25.12 and 01.01.

ALEXANDRA Alexandra, one of the oldest townships in South Africa, lies just 5km from Sandton’s glitzy business district. An area of just 6.9km2 with an estimated population in the hundreds of thousands, ‘Alex’ assaults the senses. Its narrow streets seethe with life and colour, and although it is a fraction of Soweto’s size, Alex’s character easily makes up for what it lacks in scale making a guided tour a very memorable experience. We’ve even heard people from Soweto joke that Alex is the place they go to for a ‘real’ township experience. BUVHI TOURS Jeff Mulaudzi, the charming founder of Buvhi Tours (formerly known as Alexandra Bicycle Tours) meets visitors at the Marlboro Gautrain station and takes small groups on two- or four-hour cycling tours around Alex to stops that include historic sites, shebeens and cafes where you can try typical ‘Kasi’ food and meet the locals.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, alexandratours.co.za. Tours from R450 per person.

Impala Fountain by Herman Wald 46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Jac de Villiers

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THE HUB PRESENTS Hop on an electric scooter for an off-beat tour of the streets of Alex. The Hub’s tours take in local arts and culture, famous historical sites such as the room that Nelson Mandela rented when he first arrived in Joburg in the 1940s and also include stops to try local foods.QTel. +27 71 671 1227, thehubpresents.co.za. Tours from R450 per person. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Satyagraha House, Orchards

Baptiste Brian

MAIN STREET MINING WALK Downtown Joburg’s Main Street has been home to the country’s mining headquarters ever since the city was founded 130 years ago. Back then Joburg was little more than a dusty mining camp filled with fortune hunters and prospectors, but in the space of just three years it became the biggest settlement in South Africa. Through the 1890s and early 1900s, the low-rise buildings that dotted the landscape were steadily replaced with taller, grander edifices that reflected the metropolitan’s sudden enormous wealth. You can explore the city’s early mining history along seven blocks of this pedestrianised main street, starting from Gandhi Square (D-5) and ending at Ntemi Piliso Street (C-5). Old relics of the gold rush such as mining headgear, stamp presses and carts line the way, complemented by information boards detailing Joburg’s early mining history. Underneath the massive Standard Bank headquarters two blocks over at the corner of Simmonds and Frederick Streets, you can even visit an 1886 mine tunnel entrance that is now a small museum (see p. 44). One of the most noteworthy buildings along this historic section of Main Street is the headquarters of Anglo-American mining company (cnr Ntemi Piliso St), with its bronze sculpture of a herd of leaping impalas on the public walkway. Another prominent landmark is the monumental Carlton Centre, Africa’s tallest building, located just beyond Gandhi Square at the other end of the pedestrianised Main Street precinct. On the top floor of the Carlton Centre is the indoor 360-degree Roof of Africa viewing deck, a great place to get perspective on the city’s incredibly growth. Note that the lifts for the viewing deck are located in the lower level of the Carlton Centre mall (open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00). September 2017 – January 2018

Sightseeing CITY TOURS From revealing the city’s rich downtown shopping secrets to its heritage architecture or the latest graffiti and street art, there are lots of interesting offbeat tours to enjoy in Joburg. For specialist Soweto tours, see p. 53. CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open-top, hop-on hop-off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red City route starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include the Apartheid Museum, Carlton Centre, Origins Centre and James Hall Museum of Transport (two hours without stops). This route also connects to a whistle-stop two-hour minibus tour of Soweto from the Apartheid Museum (every hour between 10:05–14:05). The green route (one hour) starts from The Zone@Rosebank and stops at Joburg Zoo, the Ditsong Museum of Military History and Constitution Hill, from where you can join the red route. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus from Rosebank at 15:10. Buses Mon–Fri every 40 mins, Sat, Sun every 30 mins.QTel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za/ johannesburg. Tickets from R190 (R170 online). JoburgSoweto combo ticket from R420. DLALA NJE This innovative company offers memorable walking tours of the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturdays) and Yeoville (Sundays). You’ll get awe-inspiring views from the 52nd floor of Hillbrow’s Ponte building where both tours start, and on the Yeoville walk there is a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine. QG‑2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea, tel. +27 72 397 2269, dlalanje.org. Tours from R350. JOBURG FREE WALKING TOURS These tours leave from the concourse outside the Park Station Gautrain (look for the guide carrying a green umbrella) and offer an easy introduction to the inner-city streets. Choose from the 100-minute City Centre walk (daily at 10:30 and 13:00) or 90-minute Braamfontein walk (daily at 15:30). At the end of the tour pay by tipping your guide however much you feel the tour was worth.QD-3, Park Station, cnr Rissik and Wolmarans Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 73 919 3355, nielsentours.co.za. JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION A non-profit organisation founded in 1985 dedicated to documenting and protecting the city’s heritage buildings, the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation offers a regular programme of weekend tours throughout the year which are publicised on their website. Tours are led by heritage experts and visit spaces that may otherwise be off-limits to the public.QNorthwards, 21 Rockridge Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 482 3349, joburgheritage.org.za. Tickets from R120, can be booked online via Computicket (under the foundation’s former name Parktown and Westcliff Heritage Trust). 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Sightseeing MAINSTREETWALKS Based in Maboneng, Bheki Dube’s tour company encourages visitors to discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot or by bike. Tours take in major heritage landmarks as well as more unusual places like Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the historic KwaMaiMai traditional healers market. MainStreetWalks also organise half-day and full-day Soweto tours, and guided underground pub crawls through Maboneng and the surrounding suburbs.QG‑5, Curiocity African Design Hostel, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 11 027 5257, mainstreetwalks.co.za. Tours from R250. PAST EXPERIENCES Choose from a range of well-researched offbeat walking tours that take in the inner city, its communities, build ings, history and street art, as well as tailor-made shop ping tours. Past Experiences are specialists in graffiti tours. Look out for their Weekend Budget Tours (from R160 per person) co-hosted by local graffiti artists.Qtel. +27 11 782 5250, pastexperiences.co.za. SOF’TOWN URBAN EXPERIENCE This unique walking tour organised by Sophiatown The Mix (see Museums) is led by the dapper Victor Mokhine, who personally experienced the 1955 Forced Removals. The tour celebrates the heritage and culture of old Sophiatown, tracing a path between the few buildings that survived the apartheid state’s bulldozers. T ours last two to three hours and cost R180 per person. Use our discount code JIYP to get 10% off your tour.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271/+27 83 550 7130, sophiatownthemix.com. THE ROVING BANTU TOURS Former anti-apartheid activist and exile Sifiso Ntuli shares his unique perspective on contemporary South Africa. Ntuli’s tours present a different view of the Joburg story and focus on the history, culture and food of lesser known neighbourhoods such as Fietas and pan-African Yeoville.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648. From R250.

Zoo Lake, Parkwood

PARKS & NATURE RESERVES JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM This sprawling green oasis incorporating the popular Em marentia Dam, has extensive parkland ideal for long walks and is also favoured by cyclists and dog walkers. The pretty terraced rose garden with its fountains is popular for weekend weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00. KLIPRIVIERSBERG NATURE RESERVE This extensive nature reserve with a river running through it is situated less than 20km south of downtown Joburg and is a popular city escape. Herds of impala and other antelope roam the hillsides and there are sign-posted trails leading through the bush for dozens of kilometres. After your walk head to the Thaba Eco Hotel, which overlooks the reserve, for refreshments.QFrandaph Dr, Mondeor, tel. +27 82 458 28 16, klipriviersberg.org.za. Open from sunrise until sunset. MODDERFONTEIN RESERVE This peaceful privately managed 275-hectare reserve is crisscrossed by hiking and cycling trails and hosts a 5km Parkrun every Saturday morning. There are braai stands next to the reserve’s main dam, four cycling routes ranging from 10km to 40km, and an 8km hiking trail complemented by shorter walks that skirt the reserve’s wetland areas. A 20-minute drive from O.R. Tambo airport and 30 minutes from central Sandton.QArden Rd (off Ardeer Rd), Modderfontein, tel. +27 79 519 1589, modderfonteinreserve. co.za. Open 06:00–18:00. Admission R30, kids R15. MUSHROOM FARM PARK This small park with its playground, hilly landscaped lawns and an outdoor gym is one of precious few green spaces to be found within central Sandton’s concrete sprawl. There is also a giant Hyundai branded tethered hot air balloon which you can ride up to enjoy impressive views of Sandton (weather permitting).QM-9, Daisy St, off Rivonia Rd (opposite Radisson Blu Hotel), Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 6881. Open 08:00–18:00.

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WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of the most beautiful and well-maintained parks in the region, head here for stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching (look out for the black eagles), waterfalls and other natural delights. There are various hiking routes (the longest is 5km) skirting around the park’s waterfall as well as large lawns for picnics. Approximately 40 minutes drive from central Sandton.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Open 08:00–17:00. Admission R45, discounts for kids, students and pensioners. ZOO LAKE Picnic, feed the ducks and hire a rowboat to enjoy this space. There are also basketball courts, a walking track, a kid’s play area with great climbing equipment, as well as the African restaurant Moyo. Popular with walkers and runners, this park tends to get busy and rather messy at weekends, with families and big groups intent on a good time gathering for barbecues and picnics.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131.

RUNNING CLUBS If you are unfamiliar with the streets it is best to hit the road with a group. There are plenty of running clubs with weekly time trials where you don’t need to be a member to join in. Sociable running clubs with weekly runs include the Pirates Sports Club (Thu at 17:45 and Sun at 07:00, 10km or 21km, 25 Braeside St, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 5025, piratesclub.co.za) and The Wanderers Club (Thu at 17:45, 5km or 8km, L-11, 21 North St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 5010, thewanderersclub.co.za). There are also weekly 5km Parkrun events held every Saturday at 08:00 at parks and nature reserves around the city including at Modderfontein Nature Reserve and Delta Park. See parkrun.co.za. Joburgers participate in sport all year round and there are plenty of options for keeping yourself busy outdoors. For our guides to cycling, yoga, adventure sports and golf see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. September – December 2017 49

Blooming Jacarandas VIEWPOINTS

PRETORIA

Among the best places in the city for drinks with a view of the blooming Jacarandas are: the terrace at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, Marble restaurant and bar on the rooftop of the Trumpet building on Keyes Art Mile, and, in Hyde Park, EB Social Kitchen and Bar or Southern Sun’s Island Bar (see Drinks with a View in Nightlife). Other places to view the Jacaranda show from on high include: LINKSFIELD RIDGE Follow the main thoroughfare Club Street through the suburb of Linksfield and take a right on Bedford Street, which becomes Linksfield Drive. The views get steadily more impressive as the road winds its way up the steep Linksfield ridge. L RON HUBBARD HOUSE The view from the house museum of L Ron Hubbard (the founder of Scientology) in Observatory is extraordinary. To visit the house you’ll need to arrange a tour.Q40 Hannaben St, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 054 0540, lrhhouse.org. Open 10:00–21:00, visits by appointment only. Admission free.

PURPLE SPRING Each Spring from early October to early November, a sea of purple petals from thousands of Jacaranda trees blooms above Joburg’s suburban streets.

The Jacaranda is not a native African tree (it originated in South America) and is believed to have first arrived in Gauteng in 1888 during the Gold Rush. It quickly became so popular that the trees were planted along almost every new street built in the rapidly growing cities of Johannesburg and Pretoria. Jacarandas are now officially recognised in South Africa as an alien species, so to see the spectacular spring blossoms you need to head to Joburg’s older suburbs, mostly north of the city centre. The blooming Jacarandas have found their way into the city’s mythology. Students joke that if you haven’t started revising for the end of year university exams before the Jacarandas start to bloom, then you’ve probably left it too late. If you are in Joburg at this time here’s our guide to some of the best places to view the lilac splendour. All you need with you is your camera.

KENSINGTON Drive through a spectacular purple tunnel along Highland Road in this historic suburb. Nearby Juno Street also has a remarkable display. This is one of the most famous Jacaranda areas in the province.

BEST JACARANDA STREETS

MELVILLE The pretty suburb of Melville is full of Jacarandas, many of them contrasting spectacularly with bright pink bougainvillaea. Jacaranda hotspots include 4th Avenue.

DUNKELD (K/L-11) Kent and Hume Roads in Dunkeld both run perpendicular to Oxford Road and Jan Smuts Avenue (east to west, and vice versa), making this the place to capture Jacaranda blooms at sunset or sunrise. GREENSIDE & PARKVIEW When driving through the suburbs of Greenside and Emmarentia, take a detour down the quiet Clovelly Street (parallel to Barry Herzog Avenue). In neighbouring Parkview you’ll also find plenty of Jacarandas on streets like Waterford Avenue and Galway Road. 50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

KILLARNEY Follow Riviera Road up from the M1 towards the Ditsong Museum of Military History for a magical Jacaranda-fringed view of the War Memorial. MELROSE (L-12) The suburb of Melrose, next to Rosebank, has some beautiful quiet Jacaranda-lined streets that make for a great photo opportunity such as Jameson, Reform and Victoria Avenues. From the James and Ethel Gray Park (entrance at Edgewood Avenue) there is a fantastic view of the downtown skyline fringed by the Observatory Ridge.

PARKWOOD In the suburbs of Parkwood and neighbouring Saxonwold take a drive (or a walk) along Bath Avenue and make a left (or a right) on any of these gorgeous purple canopied streets: Bristol, Wantage, Griswold or Rutland Roads. ROSEBANK (K/L-12) Take a stroll along Tyrwhitt Avenue in Rosebank on either side of Oxford Road in the shade of the blooming Jacarandas. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

MELVILLE KOPPIES Climb across the Melville koppies for great views of these trees against the backdrop of Joburg’s distinctive downtown skyscrapers. The best way to explore the koppies is on one of their weekend guided walks. QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, mk.org.za. Hike costs R50, R20 for kids. MUNRO DRIVE, HOUGHTON Munro Drive, which winds its way across the Observatory ridge in Houghton, is a scenic, historic street lined with mature trees and epic views over the northern suburbs. The green route of the open-top City Sightseeing bus makes a brief stop here en route to Constitution Hill. THE WESTCLIFF STEPS This grand suburb set across the Westcliff ridge is where many of Joburg’s mining magnates, the so-called Randlords, built their mansions at the turn of the century. The Westcliff steps (210 in total), dubbed the “stairway to heaven” can be accessed via Crescent Drive or the intersection of Wicklow Avenue and Westcliff Drive (pedestrian entrance). At the top, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful view of the urban forest.

JACARANDA TOURS Every spring The Johannesburg Heritage Foundation lead a series of weekend walks to admire the blooms. In particular the walks focus on the historic suburbs of Westcliff and Forest Town, taking in popular viewpoints as well as beautiful historic buildings like the Ridge School (1902) in Westcliff and Glenshiel, a turn-of-the-century mansion designed by the renowned architect Herbert Baker. View the full Joburg Heritage walks programme at joburgheritage. org.za/events.html. Tickets can be booked from Computicket (under the foundation’s former name Parktown and Westcliff Heritage). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Mark Straw Nicknamed the Jacaranda City, Pretoria (a 45-minute drive from Joburg) has suburban streets that are lined with purple trees almost everywhere you look. It is thought that 17% of all the trees in Pretoria are Jacarandas, which makes for almost 70,000 trees. For unparalleled views visit the majestic Union Buildings (seat of the South African government) and take a walk through its lovely terraced gardens. In the same area the quiet Eastwood Street, Government Avenue and the main thoroughfare Soutpansberg Road all have a dense collection of these trees, while in the suburbs north of the Union Buildings picturesque Jacaranda streets include Pierneef, Nuffield and Rose Streets. The suburbs of Sunnyside and Muckleneuk are also good places to see the spring blossoms. Some of the most beautiful streets include Johnston, Reitz, Bourke, Troye and Loveday Streets. Another famous Jacaranda suburb is Groenkloof, just south of the University of South Africa, where on Herbert Baker Street you can find rare white Jacarandas. A short drive away is Fort Klapperkop (entrance on Johann Rissik Drive) from where there are pretty views over Pretoria’s verdant southern suburbs. Note that Pretoria is approximately three degrees warmer than Joburg so the Jacarandas bloom slightly earlier than in Joburg. If not driving, take the Gautrain to Pretoria (around 30 minutes – for the Union Buildings, get off at the Hatfield stop and take the H3 Arcadia Gautrain bus (weekdays only). September – December 2017 51

Sightseeing: Soweto

Sightseeing: Soweto KLIPTOWN MUSEUM This often overlooked museum next to the upmarket Soweto Hotel brings the story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People to life. Creative displays detail the increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced under apartheid, as well as the peaceful efforts made by people from all walks of life to lobby for a free and democratic South Africa. Across the public square is a monument to the signing of the Freedom Charter, which took place in Kliptown in 1955. The Freedom Charter was used as a basis for South Africa’s democratic Constitution.QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union St and Main Rd, Kliptown, Soweto, tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

TOURS Street art in Mofolo, Soweto In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive. Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for selfcatering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, fireside-storytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows made with fresh bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com. 52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel, with strong local community ties, looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955. End your day here with a Kliptini cocktail at the elegant Jazz Maniacs restaurant. QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

ESSENTIAL STOPS VILAKAZI STREET The most famous street in all of Soweto lays claim to two Nobel prize-winning residents: Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his then wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and his modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. A tourism hub and popular hangout for middle-class Sowetans, the street is lined with busy restaurants and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes, plus lots of craft stalls and small shops showcasing local design. For many tourists the main point of interest is the small Mandela House Museum. Get a selfie on the doorstep or take the 15-minute tour (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Entrance R60, kids R20). HECTOR PIETERSON MUSEUM AND MEMORIAL This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best. Startling photographs, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising, and in particular the day of June 16 when protesting schoolchildren were mowed down by the police. Note no cameras allowed. Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, kids (13 years and above) R10. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

By taking a tour with a local guide you’ll get to go off-thebeaten path and experience ‘ikasi’ life and culture. City-based MainStreetWalks offer excellent Soweto tours that include a transfer from their base at the Curiocity hostel in Maboneng and the City Sightseeing bus offers a whistle-stop tour of Soweto by mini-bus starting from the Apartheid Museum stop (Soweto tour tickets cost extra). See p. 48 for details. LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a mustdo (a tuk-tuk tour will suit the less athletic). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and local delicacies. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers.com. Bicycle tours from R470, tuk-tuk tours from R430. BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng runs Bay of Grace Tours offering bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam. An avid conservationist Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A particular tour highlight is the hike up Enoch Sontonga koppie, offering spectacular views of Soweto. There is also the option to join Rampolokeng on a birding tour of other areas of Gauteng such as Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, Klipriviersberg and the Cradle of Humankind. Tours are on foot or by bike. QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R450. SOWETOO Operated in collaboration with the Joburg City Sightseeing bus this mini-bus tour leaves three times a day from the Apartheid Museum and takes you on a two-hour whistlestop tour with six brief stops along the way. If you would like to hop off for two hours at Vilakazi Street and get back on later, make sure you arrange this with the guides beforehand.QTel +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Joburg-Soweto combo tickets cost R420-R470, kids R220. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, a poor neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail.com. Tours from R250. TOUR SOWETO Led by former photojournalist Ilan Ossendrywer you’ll experience Soweto by getting an opportunity to meet local community members and even celebrate birthdays and special occasions with the children of Kliptown. Ossendrywer will collect you from your hotel and transport you around Soweto all the while sharing stories and insights from his many years travelling the length and breadth of Johannesburg. His warmth and good humour is infectious and a bonus of his tours is that he will guide your photography plus share a large file of photographs shot by him on the day after the trip, making for an extra memorable experience. Expect to be led down alleyways and paths not usually visited by tourists. You'll also get a chance to meet local traders, sangomas and other Soweto denizens plus he'll lead you to the best 'vetkoek' in Soweto.QTel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto.com, or mail ilan@ic-creations.com. Tours can also be booked online. Tours cost R1800 for one/two people, thereafter R750 per extra person (maximum six per group), plus a weekend surcharge of R450 per group. Airport pick-ups cost R450. Kids under 10 free. September 2017 – January 2018

Sightseeing: Soweto COOL SOWETO THE BOX SHOP At the top of Vilakazi Street don’t miss The Box Shop, an eyecatching cube built from shipping containers that houses a fashion and design boutique and Kofi, Soweto’s first coffee roasters.Q7166-7176 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 78 023 0883, theboxshop.co.za. Open 09:30–19:30, Fri–Sun 09:30–20:30. LOCRATE MARKET Trendy monthly market promoting local art, food, fashion and design brands complemented by local DJs and live performances.QCnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, tel. +27 73 521 9035, locratemarket.co.za. Open first Sun of the month 10:00–17:00. NTOZINHLE ACCESSORIES Sphelele Chikowi’s Soweto store is a magnet for women looking for unique and handmade African accessories. Q7323 Phiri St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 058 8445, find them on Instagram. Open 09:00–17:30, Sun 09:00–15:00. ORLANDO TOWERS & CHAF POZI Bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top of these colourfully painted cooling towers. At their base is Chaf Pozi, a buzzing shisa nyama lunch and party spot with a great beer garden. QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open 12:00–17:00. Closed Sun–Wed. Open public holidays 10:00–18:00. Chaf Pozi tel. +27 81 797 5756/+27 11 463 8895, chafpozi.co.za. Open 11:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–24:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. SAKHUMZI One of Soweto’s oldest and most famous restaurants serving typical African township fare. If you have been hanker-

Shopping ing to try local dishes such as mogodu (tripe stew) this is the place for it. Tables in the streetside beer garden are the most popular.Q6980 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 536 1379. Open 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sun 11:00–24:00. SHOVA LIFESTYLE ORIGIN A quirky little gift shop with beers on tap courtesy of Soweto Gold craft brewery and a handful of pavement tables to sit and enjoy them.Q8039 Vilakazi St. Open 09:00–18:00, Thu and Sat 09:00–23:00, Fri and Sun 09:00–22:00. SOWETO ART AND CRAFT FAIR A family-friendly market with local crafts, food and fashion, held at the landmark Soweto Theatre. The free concerts on the open-air stage by well-known local bands are a popular attraction.QSoweto Theatre, cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, sowetotheatre. com. Open first Sat of the month from 12:00–21:00. THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store deep in the Sowetan suburb of Mofolo has been selling its own clothing brand Thesis Lifestyle, since 2008. Their brand references Soweto street culture and their signature slogan T-shirts and ‘bucket’ hats are among their most coveted products. The Thesis collective often host street parties, in addition to maintaining a popular running club.Q173 Machaba Dr, Mofolo, Soweto, tel. +27 11 982 1182. Open 10:00–19:00. UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN Home of Soweto Gold craft beer. Tour the brewery before heading to the beer garden for a tasting and to sample the lip-smacking ‘gourmet township grill’ menu.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, tel. +27 74 738 0355, sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00.

SOWETO MAP

Collector’s Treasury, City Centre

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES BLACK COFFEE AND LOVE JOZI Jacques van Watt’s fashion label combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction and attention to detail. The store shares space with Love Jozi, a cult homegrown T-shirt and homeware accessories brand that mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, referencing iconic Joburg images.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9148, blackcoffee.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00. COLLECTOR’S TREASURY For browsers and bibliophiles it doesn’t get much better than this. Spread across several floors of an inner-city block, this is the largest used and rare bookshop in Africa with some two million items, including ceramics, maps and other bric-a-brac, heaped along shelves, staircases and any other surface that will hold them.QF‑4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. FIVE8THS Elizabeth Kading’s Five8ths specialises in custom-made shirts that are made to last. There is a small selection of shirts you can buy straight from the rail and handmade accessories such as ties, bowties and pocket squares made from high-quality fabrics.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 79 739 9265, five8ths.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of this innova tive photography collective of young men formerly from a children’s shelter. Their images of the city decorate walls, notebooks, cushions coasters and postcards and make great gifts. The brand also makes cool T-shirts with a Joburg reference.QG‑5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–16:00. Also at Rosebank Mall.

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KIM SACKS GALLERY Danish-trained ceramist Kim Sacks stocks collectable ceramic pieces, produced through artistic collaborations. Her Moorish-styled gallery is conveniently located along Parkwood’s Art Gallery Row. Here you’ll also find museum-quality traditional and contemporary handmade objects.Q153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks. com. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. LOVE BOOKS Kate Rogan’s independent bookshop exhibits her thoughtful and considered reading choices, award-winning books, books people are or should be talking about including plenty of South African titles. The adjoining café Service Station is a popular neighbourhood hangout with a view of the Melville Koppies.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. MR VINYL Browse for the biggest selection of new and pre-loved vinyl across all genres, including rare and collectable items, or just hang out on the sofa and enjoy the music. Mr Vinyl also takes part in the popular monthly Vinyl Fair which happens on the first Sunday of the month at the Stanley Beer Yard a few doors down.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 1212, mrvinyl.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–15:00. PIECE @ ELLIS HOUSE The beautiful Piece gallery and store sells an extraordinary range of high-end contemporary items, and develops the skills of local craftspeople by providing an outlet to continue creating traditional crafts. Each item is handmade, authentic and ethically-sourced. A wide range of crafts is showcased including traditional woven baskets, beadwork, and gorgeous papier-mâché creatures from the Kalahari that are a favourite of Princess Charlene of Monaco.QH-3, 23 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein, tel.+27 83 400 5126, piece.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. September 2017 – January 2018

Shopping

trendy

Trays from African Image, Work Shop New Town

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING

MALLS

27 BOXES Built from shipping containers 27 Boxes reflects Bohemian Melville’s love for local brands. The centre is home to small businesses, among them fashion boutiques, gift shops, and cafés. Visit the colourful Krag Drag store for fun T-shirts and Babygros that playfully reference iconic South African brands and for a cool selection of retro-inspired gift items. There’s a regularly changing collection of pop-up shops selling everything from vintage clothing to paintings and prints by local artists and lots of places to grab snacks like samoosas, smoothies and decadent cronuts. For dinner and craft beers visit the steampunk-styled restaurant The Countess (see Where to Eat).Q76 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon.

South Africans love their malls and Joburg has some of the best in the country. In the heart of Central Sandton is Joburg’s biggest mall Sandton City which links directly to Nelson Mandela Square. There are literally hundreds of shops, including the flagship stores of major local and international fashion, sports, and design brands (sandtoncity. com, open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00). In Rosebank visit Rosebank Mall for more than 150 high street brands and browse the boutiques at the adjoining Zone@Rosebank. Visit The Space and Space Man, a shopping emporium selling clothing and accessories by small local brands. (rosebankmall.co.za and thezoneatrosebank.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00). The flashy new Mall of Africa in Midrand (halfway between Joburg and Pretoria) is one of Africa’s biggest shopping malls. Bring your walking shoes (mallofafrica.co.za, open 09:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–20:00).

44 STANLEY This charming converted 1930s industrial complex is filled with boutiques and cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees. For fashion look out for local designer labels Lunar, Guillotine and Black Coffee and super stylish menswear store Odrin. Vintage clothing enthusiasts should pop into Dr Pachanga or Wizards Vintage and for colourful kids clothing referencing traditional African patterns there’s Kuna Kids. Among many other must-visit stores is the divine Belgian chocolate store Chocoloza, record shop Mr Vinyl, and Mungo Design where you will find luxurious woven linens made according to traditional 19th-Century techniques.Q44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. WORK SHOP NEW TOWN This urban shopping emporium is housed in the historic Potato Sheds first built in 1911 as part of Joburg’s original fruit and vegetable market in Newtown. The voluminous heritage space showcases some of the hippest local fashion and design brands including the Xhosa-inspired knitwear label Maxhosa by Laduma, and top South African rapper Cassper Nyovest’s fashion label Family Tree, as well as craft stalls, a coffee bar and vintage fashion retailers.QCnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Roxanne came to know the Oriental Plaza’s amazing fashion selection back in 2002. She became a trendsetter much earlier.

ORIENTAL PLAZA

Head to this thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jewelled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions.QA-4/5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s your favourite style? oriental plaza fordsburg www.orientalplaza.co.za

With over 300 exclusive stores, discover a unique shopping experience! Explore endless fashionable trends in clothing, shoes and so much more

Shopping LUXURY SHOPPING Hyde Park Corner

AVOOVA AFRICAN ORIGINALS Located in one of Joburg’s most luxurious hotels is the enticing Avoova with its fine range of exquisite handcrafted decor items and gifts, including Avoova’s ostrich egg jewellery, silk scarves by L’Mad, homeware and accessories, Masai beaded dog collars by Seringa, and beautifully packaged exotic blends of African loose-leaf teas by Yswara.QFour Seasons The Westcliff Hotel, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6220, avoova.com. Open 09:00–18:00. BRYLLIANTA DIAMONDS & TANZANITE A plush, private and secure appointment-only jewel boutique for diamonds and tanzanite offering per sonalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop.QL‑9, The Forum of Sandton Square (2 Maude St), Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867/+27 82 441 2121, bryllianta.co.za. Bryllianta is by appointment-only. THE DIAMOND WALK AT SANDTON CITY The place to visit for the largest collection of the most coveted international luxury labels to be found in Joburg including leading names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. In the adjoing shopping centre Nelson Mandela Square look out for local luxury labels like Lorenzi, known for their brightly coloured exotic leatherware. QL-9, Sandton City, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, sandtoncity. com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00. HYDE PARK CORNER Joburg’s swankiest mall, here you get to rub shoulders with the city’s elite while shopping for the latest high fashion. Visit the exclusive Luminance department store, which stocks local and international designer labels and pop into Whisky Brother to buy the finest whiskies from across the world.QK-10, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, hydeparkcorner.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00. 58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MARKETS BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight. The market’s free shuttle picks up visitors at selected Sandton hotels, with a return trip via Liliesleaf museum. See website for details.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00. MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls and a sunny courtyard plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market, that spills out onto the surrounding streets, an addictive Sunday destination.QG-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00. NEIGHBOURGOODS Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, neighbourgoodsmarket. co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00. ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET The place to find the widest range of African souvenirs from across the continent. Buy handcrafted items such as beaded sculptures, West African masks and quintessential Big Five figurines. ‘This is Africa. We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QK-12, Rosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun, public holidays 09:00–17:00. ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Taking up a large covered rooftop space this market brings together a wide range of talented crafters. There’s also a variety of clothing stalls selling vintage and contemporary fashion. Don’t leave without eating from the food stalls – look out for the homemade falafel and hummus from King Arabic Sandwich. Flea market enthusiasts will enjoy the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.QK-12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7820 rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

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September 2017 – January 2018

Afro-chic fashion

AFRICAN

PRINTS From shweshwe to Basotho blankets, here is our guide to shopping for African fabrics Many of the brightly coloured and patterned fabrics used in traditional and contemporary African attire actually originated in Asia, France and Scotland before being culturally appropriated. In South Africa, shweshwe, the ubiquitous colourful geometrically patterned wax-printed fabric, was first integrated into the traditional dress of Xhosa women after being imported by European settlers in the 1840s. Meanwhile the thick woolly blankets worn by the Basotho people of Lesotho were originally brought to the region by the Victorians and the adire and bazin fabrics popular in West Africa are thought to have been brought there from east Asia. The patterns and colours used in these fabrics are often richly symbolic. For example the pattern of the Basotho blanket recently referenced by Louis Vuitton in their 2017 men’s catalogue shows cobs of corn representing the harvest, fertility and wealth. Another popular pattern is inspired by a spiral aloe plant found only in Lesotho’s Maluti Mountains. The ubiquitous wax-printed kanga or kitenge cloth (traditionally worn sarong-style or as a headwrap and popular across eastern and southern Africa) is as commonly found printed with colourful patterns as with portraits of political leaders. While cheap Chinese imports abound, there are just as many authentic African fabrics available in Joburg, made using traditional techniques. Authentic fabric labels to look out for include Da Gama’s Three Cats Original Shweshwe and the Basotho blankets made by Aranda textile mills.

SHOPPING FOR FABRIC Head to Bryanston Organic & Natural Market for highquality organic and ethically-sourced fabrics. For handmade ready-to-wear clothing that references cultures from around Africa check out African Renaissance and also look out for the stall specialising in beautiful woven Ethiopian shawls and table linen. At Rosebank’s huge daily African Art and 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Craft Market you can barter for bright ready-to-wear Afrochic fashion and a wide choice of fabrics from across the continent. Fordsburg’s Oriental Plaza is one of the city’s most famous fabric shopping destinations with more than 350 stores selling everything from homeware and shoes to jewellery and clothing. Fabric shops and haberdashery abound with a wide range of African and Asian material and readyto-wear traditional clothing on sale at unbeatable prices. In the city centre the shops on busy Diagonal Street stock Basotho blankets, kanga cloths and traditional accessories like canes and beaded jewellery. At the historic Fashion District in and around Pritchard Street you can find one of the biggest collections of fabrics in the city at Studio 109 and the Fashion Kapitol. Be mindful in both these areas of pickpockets and avoid flashing around jewellery or cameras. For a fantastic range of shweshwe fabrics and batik there’s Makotis in Maboneng, one of the city’s oldest traditional fabric retailers also stocking a small ready-to-wear range. Upholstery and tailoring can be arranged.

LEOPARD FROCK Marianne Fassler’s design style is bold, eclectic and electric, using vibrant colours and African-inspired motifs. Long before Europe’s top design houses ‘discovered’ African prints, Fassler embraced an aesthetic that is distinctly chic and African. Her studio and showroom Leopard Frock is a dress-up space filled with rich colour and detail.

AFRO-CHIC FASHION

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Founded by Laduma Ngxokolo, this designer knitwear label is inspired by manhood rituals of the South African Xhosa people. Ngxokolo uses beadwork patterns and symbolism from this rich culture in his luxurious contemporary knitwear designs and counts Beyonce as a fan.

From chic knitwear inspired by traditional Xhosa designs to extravagant dresses made from Zambian kitenge cloth, many of Joburg’s fashion designers make use of traditional African fabrics and motifs. Welcome to the best place to shop for contemporary African-chic clothing and accessories. HLAMVU Owned by two super stylish Zambian sisters, Hlamvu makes Afrocentric clothing for women, men and kids from vibrant Ghanaian fabrics. The store also has a custom-made clothing line and sells accessories and beaded jewellery.

MAKOTIS Makotis (meaning ‘bride’ in Zulu) is run by the Wadee family who have been selling traditional fabrics and bespoke garments, including clothing for traditional weddings, since 1961. The Maboneng branch is a sister store to the original shop in the fashion district. MANTSHO BY PALESA MOKUBUNG Palesa Mokubung describes her clothing as ‘edgy and experimental’. She uses bold, brightly patterned West African fabrics to create show-stopping ready-to-wear clothing.

TINTFO LE TINHLE From vintage dresses to intricately beaded clutches and brightly patterned African fabrics this delightful little gift and clothing boutique is filled with beautiful things.

KISUA Meaning ‘well dressed person’ in Swahili, Kisua collaborates with African designers to create exclusive capsule collections that meld contemporary aesthetics and traditional fabrics. Look out for the collection of boldly printed headwraps and brightly coloured midi and maxi dresses. KUNA KIDS Shingai Nyagweta’s clothing store sells simply the most adorable kids’ T-shirts, dresses and Babygros made with a wide variety of brightly-coloured African fabrics. The collection is constantly updated. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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FABRIC DIRECTORY HLAMVUQ133 Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 077 3240, hlamvu.co.za. Open 08.00–20.00, Sat 09.00– 15.00. Closed Sun. KISUA QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 879 1954, kisua.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00. KUNA KIDSQ44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 72 448 3713, kuna.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. LEOPARD FROCKQ34 Engelwold Dr, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 8387, mariannefassler.co.za. Open 08:00– 16:30. Weekends by appointment only. MAKOTISQG-5, Revolution House, cnr Kruger St and Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 10 900 4158, makotis.co.za. Open 10:30–16:00 (Fri closed between 12:30–14:00). Closed Mon. MANTSHO BY PALESA MOKUBUNGQ27 Boxes, 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 71 881 4828, mantsho.co. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. MAXHOSA BY LADUMAQB-4, Work Shop New Town, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 900 4158, maxhosa.co.za. Open 10:00– 18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. TINTFO LE TINHLEQJ-10, Shepherd Market, 339 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 71 076 8074. Open 11:00–19:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. September – December 2017 61

Joburg Basics

Joburg Basics EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card. From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

MEDICAL CARE Joburg skyline

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Anton Bosman

from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming Jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

CELLPHONES AND SIM CARDS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations. VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325 or +27 82 443 5366, emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00. SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QK-12, Netcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00. NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday. September 24 Heritage Day December 16 Day of Reconciliation December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Day of Goodwill January 1 New Years Day

POSTAGE South African Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, postnet.co.za). For courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cigarettes R40–R50 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R12–R14 Loaf of bread R10–R12 Local beer (in a bar) R22–R28

NEED TO KNOW DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). For directory enquiries dial 1023. DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly. See southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm. ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa. LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life. POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system. The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC). RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory). SMOKING Smoking is banned in public places and despite it carrying a R500 penalty you might find people smoking on terraces and in doorways of bars and restaurants. Look out for specially designated smoking areas. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12. TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time. TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (joburgtourism.com), Gauteng Tourism (gauteng.net) and Sandton Tourism (sandtontourism.com). VAT A tax of 14 percent is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (taxrefunds.co.za). You will need to get a tax invoice ffrom the shop for anything you buy to be able to claim VAT. WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good. September 2017 – January 2018

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Morningside Shopping Centre

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Roxbu

12t

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Parkhurst

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9th

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13 Radisson Blu Sandton Hotel

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12 Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel

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11 Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton

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10 Michelangelo Hotel

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Pretoria Ma in Rd

9 The Maslow

PRETORIA

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Sandton Towers

SANDTON

8 Intercontinental Johannesburg

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7 Holiday Inn Sandton

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RANDBURG

Fo re

Deodar Ln MIDRAND

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5 Garden Court Sandton City

6 Hilton Sandton Hotel ng Rd

BRYANSTON

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4 Da Vinci Hotel & Suites

Rivonia Rd

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3 Courtyard Hotel Sandton

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Pick n Pay on Nicol

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