Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 2, May-Aug 2014

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg May – August 2014

Fab Fordsburg

A Joburg district that hits the sweet spot

Two-wheel power A how-to guide to cycling in the city

N°2 - R30 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 What to see and where to go

Arriving & Getting Around

14

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

17

Rooms to suit all budgets

Where to eat

21

Restaurants, cafés and coffee shops

Anyone for drinks?

28

The night is not getting any younger

Nightlife

30

Answer the call of the wild

Fordsburg delights

34

The wonders of Joburg’s Indian district

What to see

38 Museums 38 Places of interest 41 Public art 43 Tours 44 Soweto 45

Shopping

Beauty Black Book Joburg with kids

51

Sport & Outdoors

History, culture and a swinging nightlife

52

A little help to look your best

47

Where to spend your money

Gay Joburg

Welcome to the big city Chris Kirchhoff, MediaClubSouthAfrica.com

53

Family-friendly entertainment 54

Life on a bicycle and your own two feet

City Basics

CONNECT WITH US We welcome your comments. Share your views and city secrets with us at www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, where you will also find the latest event info in our What’s On section as well as special online features. See page 66 for where to find us in print.

EDITOR’S NOTE The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

56

Essential information for your Joburg stay

Directory

60

Joburg districts

62

Find your way around the neighbourhoods

Maps & Index City Centre

64 64

All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65 N NEW CONTENT O ONLINE FEATURE D SEE DIRECTORY

May – August 2014

3

Foreword Congratulations! You’ve arrived in the city that is South Africa’s heartbeat. The winter months do nothing to deter Joburgers from doing the things they love so much: finding new restaurants to eat at, new things to do, new ways to avoid paying for toll roads, and new people to honk at in traffic. Warm yourself with a trip to Fordsburg to discover another side to the city, away from the mega-malls and leafy streets. It has history, art, bargains and, of course, spices and colour aplenty. A general note on being here: to get to know this city is to understand and appreciate its contrasts.

In just a few blocks you’ll find hipsters, hustlers and hippies, fast-talking car guards and smooth-looking Porsche Cayenne drivers. Joburg is nothing if not unpredictable. The pace is fast; on most days the people are really friendly and even in winter the sun shines like it means it. Johannesburg In Your Pocket is an insider’s guide to the city, and, like the place, we hope each issue will reveal many shiny gems. Fold it up, tuck it in your pocket and enjoy your stay!

Publisher E S S E N TI A L IYP City Guides (Pty) C I Ltd, T Y Postnet G U I Suite D E S#108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa, tel. +27 82 572 3553 General enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Research Melissa Mtwisha Contributors Carrie Adams, Tanya Kovarsky @TanyaKovarsky, Deon Prinsloo, Hermann Niebuhr, Crispian Olver, Josef Talotta, Anu Sing Photography © iwasshot in joburg :), Heather Mason @2Summers, Darren Smith @DazMSmith and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps Abdul Rahman Allana, Melissa Hoffman, Bradley Kirshenbaum

COVER STORY

Advertising Laurice Taitz, laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, +27 82 572 3553

Our cover image is of Hassnain Raza in Shalimar Delights (228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Fordsburg) by iwasshot in joburg :). The photographers are young men from the Twilight Children Shelter in Hillbrow who, through an innovative project, have found a meaningful way to tell their own stories about the city and to earn a living by doing so. Based in Maboneng, they have created an amazing product range inspired by Joburg. See Shopping for details of where to buy their work. Also see www.iwasshot.com.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Print run 8 000 copies, published three times a year.

ISSN 2311-3944

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4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide – to Vilnius in Lithuania – in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further in 2014, with the publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean: our first in the Western Hemisphere.

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Highlights CROC CITY CROCODILE AND REPTILE PARK For crocodiles, snakes and fans of creepy crawlies.QPlot 59, R114 Old Pretoria Rd, Nietgedacht 535. +2783 657 7561. www.croccity.co.za.

FRIENDS OF THE RAIL Take a trip on a vintage steam train across the countryside.Q152 Miechaelson St, Hermanstad, Pretoria, +27 12 548 4090, www.friendsoftherail.com.

BECOME A FEEDIE Founded by a US-based South African, Topaz Paige-Green.

Share your food with the world’s first foodie philanthropy app.

GREAT NEW TRAVEL APP The Gauteng Tourism Authority’s new travel app – Gauteng Travel Guide – is an exciting way to discover the province.

WHAT IT IS A free GPS-enabled app to turn your smartphone into a tourguide, with over 350 recommended attractions, with photos, route maps and necessary contact information.

HOW IT WORKS Once the app is downloaded, all the information is available offline.

WHY WE LIKE IT Neat audio guides, and you get to tailor the content to your interests.

TO FIND IT Check your app store or www.gauteng.net.

Some of our favourite newly uncovered destinations and activities include: AERIAL CABLEWAY For panoramic views of the Magaliesberg Mountains and Hartebeespoort Dam.QPlot 3, Melodie Agricultural Holdings, Hartebeespoort, +27 12 253 7708, www.hartiescableway.co.za.

ANTON VAN WOUW MUSEUM A Dutch national monument and home to a collection of the famous sculptor’s work.QOu Merensky Library, University of Pretoria, +27 12 420 6419. Tue–Fri 10:00–16:00 or by appointment.

IRENE DAIRY FARM AND VILLAGE MARKET A delightful storybook farm.QDr Livingstone Drive, Irene, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 667 2326, www.irenefarm.co.za.

WALTER SISULU NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS. A birdlife haven with a waterfall and manicured gardens.

QMalcolm Rd, Poortview, Roodepoort, tel. +086 100 278, www.sanbi.org.za. Open 08:00-18:00. Entrance R27.

CULLINAN DIAMOND MINE Tour the third-richest diamond mine in South Africa, home to the famous Cullinan stone.

QTel. +27 82 551 6089, www.cullinan.za.net. Prices from R220 for a surface tour to R440 to go underground. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HOW IT WORKS Download the Feedie app, visit a participating Feedie restaurant, take a picture of your meal and post it to your preferred social network using the app.

WHY WE LIKE IT In return the restaurant will donate R2.50 to the Lunchbox Fund, a charity providing meals for poor and at-risk South African schoolchildren.

TO FIND OUT MORE See wethefeedies.com to find out more about the app and search for partner restaurants (the Tashas chain signed up first – see Where to Eat).

ZOO PARTY Joburg Zoo marks its 110th anniversary with a big bash on June 22. For all the latest details and to book a visit go to ww.jhbzoo.org.za.

IMPORTANT DATES 07.05 GENERAL ELECTION South Africa votes.

16.06 YOUTH DAY National holiday commemorating the youth of South Africa who lost their lives in the struggle against apartheid, particularly the victims of the Soweto uprising, which began on June 16, 1976.

18.07 NELSON MANDELA DAY The late Nelson Mandela’s birthday is celebrated internationally. South Africans honour his legacy by devoting 67 minutes of their time (representative of the 67 years Mandela spent serving the country) to charitable and community activities. To find out how you can take part go to www.mandeladay.com. To follow in Mandela’s footsteps through Joburg, see What to See. 09.08 WOMEN’S DAY On this day in 1956 more than 50 000 South African women marched to the Union Buildings in Pretoria to protest against the imposition of the passbook laws.

May – August 2014

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What’s On EDITOR’S PICK 17.07 THURSDAY – 20.07 SUNDAY TAF 14 The Turbine Art Fair is back in Newtown in July. The inaugural fair last year attracted more than 3 000 people to the spectacular 1920s Turbine Hall to buy artworks by emerging and new artists. The event encourages collecting contemporary art at affordable prices (the ceiling price is R30 000), and offers lots of opportunities to learn more about art for first-time buyers. Expect curated exhibitions, interactive art talks, a jazz festival run in parallel with the event at nearby Bassline, and exceptional food from TAF14 organisers The Forum Company.

CONCERTS AND LIVE MUSIC 10.05 SATURDAY DRUMBEAT 2014 Soweto’s foremost music festival returns for the fourth year with an impressive pan-African line-up. Legendary Zimbabwean folk singer Oliver Mtukudzi headlines.

QSoweto Theatre, www.drumbeatconcert.co.za. From 16:00. Tickets R150.

13.05 TUESDAY – 24.05 SATURDAY CAT SINGS ELLA Jazz singer and pianist Cat Simoni tells the amazing life story of Ella Fitzgerald through the songs that defined her, from her early years in Harlem to the legendary European concerts.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Starts at 20:15. Tickets R140.

14.06 SATURDAY ARMIN ONLY INTENSE DJ Armin Van Buuren’s spectacular show, more than just pumping electronica and spinning decks, includes dance numbers, acrobatics and special effects.QCoca-Cola Dome. Starts at 20:00. Tickets R540–R2 500.

16.06 MONDAY 30 SECONDS TO MARS Californian Jared Leto’s pop-rock band is known for its high-energy shows.QCoca-Cola Dome. Starts at 19:00.

Tickets R310–R510.

26.06 THURSDAY – 27.06 FRIDAY TORI AMOS Pianist, singer-songwriter, poetess, the sensitive man’s pin-up and all-round feminist icon, Tori Amos has been exploring taboo topics and genres for over 25 years. Her latest album returns to pop and alternative rock music.

QTeatro at Montecasino. Starts at 20:00. Tickets R880.

27.06 FRIDAY – 28.06 SATURDAY BLAKE AND CORTES British operatic ‘boy band’ Blake, famous for their musical mix of pop, rock and classical trends, are joined by the Icelandic tenor Cortes and the Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra.QEmperor’s Palace, 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za.

Starts at 20:00. Tickets R300.

FAMILY FUN 05.04 SATURDAY – 08.06 SUNDAY THE SOUND OF MUSIC A lavish all-star South African production of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s timeless family favourite, still the most successful movie musical in history.QTeatro at Montecasino.

Evening performances at 20:00, also Sat 15:00, Sun 14:00 and 16:00. Tickets R150–R425.

30.05 FRIDAY FOREIGN EXCHANGE American rapper Phonte Coleman and Dutch record producer Nicolay make up this R&B/hip-hop act with an electronic edge.QBassline. Tickets R270–R300.

31.05 SATURDAY DELICIOUS FESTIVAL Combining the love of food and the love of music, this festival features Soul II Soul and Brand New Heavies.QEmmarentia Botanical Gardens, Olifants Rd, Emmarentia, www.deliciousfestival.com. Tickets from R450.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Tori Amos, Teatro at Montecasino

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What’s On 14.05 WEDNESDAY – 18.05 SUNDAY YEBO GOGGA, YEBO AMA BLOMO Hands-on interactive exhibition created for kids to learn more about the natural world. Curious young minds can get involved in experiments and get up close to the goggas (creepy crawlies) and reptiles.QB-2, Wits Life Sciences Museum, East Campus, University of the Witwatersrand (entrance via Senate House on Jorissen St), Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 6467, www.wits.ac.za/ yebogogga. Entrance free.

09.06 MONDAY – 20.07 SUNDAY FRECKLEFACE STRAWBERRY THE MUSICAL Based on the best-selling children’s book by actress Julianne Moore. A fun musical production that deals with bullying and personal appearance.QNational Children’s Theatre, 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. Tickets R110.

20.06 FRIDAY – 20.07 SUNDAY DAYS OF THE DINOSAUR Twelve huge exhibits filled with 45 moving life-size dinosaurs provide hours of fun. Dig about for fossils and learn about palaeontology.QSandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 71 935 3584, daysofthedinosaur.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Fri–Sun 09:00–21:00. Tickets R140; under-18s, R95.

Disney on Ice, Coca-Cola Dome

23.07 WEDNESDAY – 27.07 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE – 100 YEARS OF MAGIC More than 60 Disney characters star in this ice dancing extravaganza filled with sing-along songs, elaborate sets, stunning choreography and incredible costumes.QCocaCola Dome. Tickets start from R175 (midweek) to R200 (weekend).

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 07.05 WEDNESDAY SIMON GUSH: RED In July 1990 workers at a Mercedes-Benz plant gave Nelson Mandela a red 500 SE, made in their free time with parts supplied by the factory. Some months later relations between the union, the workers and the management at the plant collapsed. A look at what the gift represented.

QGoethe Gallery, Goethe-Institut, 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe. de/johannesburg. Open 09:00–13:00, 14:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–14:30. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Jodi Bieber, Wits Art Museum

10.05 SATURDAY – 11.05 SUNDAY WINTER SCULPTURE FAIR 2014 Head out to the Cradle of Humankind for exceptional contemporary art, fine wine and great food from South Africa’s culinary capital, Franschoek, in Western Cape. The fair is held in the magnificent grounds of the Nirox Sculpture Park.Q24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, tel. 082 854 6963, www.wintersculpturefair.co.za. From 10:00–17:00.

Tickets from R100.

UNTIL 25.05 SUNDAY IMPRESSIONS OF RORKE’S DRIFT The Rorke’s Drift Art and Crafts School in KwaZulu-Natal was one of the only places where black artists could study and practise art under apartheid. The works by artists who worked at the centre come from the collection of the Jumuna family.QB-4, MuseuMAfricA, 121 Bree St (Mary Fitzgerald Sq), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624, www. centre-rorkesdrift.com. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. UNTIL 07.06 SATURDAY MARY SIBANDE – THE PURPLE SHALL GOVERN Mary Sibande is a rising star in the South African art world, best known for her profound grappling with the identity politics of black women as domestic workers.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts. co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

FOR ALL VENUE ADDRESS DETAILS, SEE PAGE 9 May – August 2014

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What’s On REGULAR LINE-UP Live jazz, poetry, local bands and stand-up comedy almost any night of the week. See page 9 for details.

Live music Tue–Sat Wed 20:00 Thu–Sat Thu 20:00, Fri 21:00 Fri 13:00 Fri 20:45 Sat 21:00 Monthly: Last Sat 20:00 Fri, Sat, Sun

Live jazz nights. Katzy’s and The Orbit Jam nights. Bassline Live music evening. Amuse Café Live music. Lighthouse on 7th Friday Lunch Hour Classical Concerts. Theatre on the Square The Radium Jazz Band. Radium Beerhall Live music evening. Radium Beerhall Sophiatown Jazz Encounters.

Intimate events, bookings required, Sophiatown Heritage Centre Live music nights. Afrikan Freedom Station

Monthly: Park Acoustics. Open-air music fesLast Sun tival, Voortrekker Monument, Pretoria 10:00–19:00 Literary events Word ‘n Sound Poetry Corner.

Wed 19:00 Lighthouse on 7th The Troyeville Hotel Book Club. DinMonthly* ner and literary discussions, bookings required, Troyeville Hotel Monthly: Jozi House of Poetry. Afrikan Freedom Last Sun Station 14:00–17:00 Parties Sun Rooftop Salsa. Free salsa dancing 12:00–20:00 party, Arts on Main, Maboneng Sundays @ Living Room. Popular Sun from 12:00 roof party, Living Room, Maboneng Monthly: The Warm Up Jozi. Monthly rooftop First Sat house music party. Various venues 14:00–24:00** Monthly: Radium Sundown Sessions.

3rd Sun Radium Beerhall 14:00–20:00 The WKND Social. Social brunch Monthly*** events in unique and fashionable city locations. Various venues * Dates vary. Call +27 11 402 7709 or email info@ troyevillehotel.co.za. ** See www.thewarmupjozi.co.za. *** Email info@thewkndsocial.com or join the mailing list at thewkndsocial.tumblr.com.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Migrant journeys, Wits Art Museum

UNTIL 22.06 SUNDAY DA VINCI: THE GENIUS The 200 displays include prototypes of Da Vinci’s machines and super-magnified high-resolution replicas of his most mysterious artworks.QThe Amazing Place, Mount Lebanon Rd, Woodmead, Sandton, davinciexhibition.co.za.

Open 10:00–19:00, weekends/holidays 09:00–19:00.

UNTIL 29.06 SUNDAY RISE AND FALL OF APARTHEID An award-winning international exhibition coinciding with the 20th anniversary of democracy in South Africa.

An incredible 800 works brought together to create an enormous, comprehensive historical overview of the varying responses to apartheid.QMuseuMAfricA, 121 Bree St (Mary Fitzgerald Sq), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624, www.riseandfallofapartheid.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

Closed Mon. UNTIL 20.07 SUNDAY JODI BIEBER: BETWEEN DARKNESS AND LIGHT South African photographer Jodi Bieber is famous for her award-winning Time cover of a mutilated Afghan woman.

This exhibition includes photos from her various assignments as well as her colourful photos of Sowetans.QB-2, Wits Arts Museum (WAM), University Corner, cnr Bertha St (extension of Jan Smuts Ave) and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1358, www.wits.ac.za/wam.

Open Wed–Sun 10:00–16:00.

UNTIL 20.07 SUNDAY UKUHAMBA NGEZINYAWO, WALKING: AN EXHIBITION OF MIGRANT JOURNEYS A powerful exhibition on the dangers, difficulties and feelings of dispossession faced by the many migrant workers who make the arduous journey from rural South Africa to come and work in Johannesburg.QB-2, Wits Arts Museum (WAM), details as in previous listing. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On UNTIL 13.09 SATURDAY LIFELINES A fascinating look at the secret lives of some unusual African objects.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00– 16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 11.05 SUNDAY – 01.06 SUNDAY NICOLE LEVENBERG – SAMPLE (I-VIII) Mixed-media designs created using various techniques.

QG-4, Nirox Projects, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 350 4326, www.niroxarts.com.

STARTS 11.05 SUNDAY REINER LEIST – ANOTHER COUNTRY A fascinating glimpse into the changing lives of ordinary South Africans.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3180. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. 22.05 THURSDAY – 27.06 FRIDAY GUY TILLIM – JOBURG POINTS OF VIEW Widely respected and awarded photographer, for this exhibition Tillim turns his lens on his hometown, Joburg.

QC-3, Stevenson Gallery, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info.

STARTS 25.05 SUNDAY OVER THE RAINBOW Works by various South African artists exploring the notion of democracy and questioning its achievements.

QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3180. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. 08.06 SUNDAY – 27.06 FRIDAY ABSA L’ATELIER 2014 – BLOOD, SWEAT & TEARS Works by previous winners and current finalists of the contest for best young South African artist.QE-5, Absa Tower North, 161 Main St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 350 5139, www.absalatelier.co.za.

06.07 SUNDAY – 31.07 THURSDAY TREND CAPRI Five well-known photographers capture the magic of the Neapolitan island.QG-4, NIROXProjects, Arts on Main, tel. +27 72 350 4326, www.niroxarts.com.

VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION 41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za AMUSE CAFÉ 34 5th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, Tel. +27 84 555 5252 ARTS ON MAIN G-4, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www.mabonengprecinct.com AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za.

BASSLINE B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za COCA-COLA DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www. coca-coladome.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre. com KATZY’S The Firs, cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945 LIGHTHOUSE ON 7TH 8 7th St, Melville, tel. 27 72 500 0870 LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za LIVING ROOM G-4 Main Street Life, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 61 402 2843 LYRIC THEATRE Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Complex, Northern Park Way, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Bree St and Miriam Makeba St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Drive and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, www.montecasino. co.za PARKERS COMEDY & JIVE CLUB Shop 24, Montecasino, 1 Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, +27 11 511 0082, www. parkerscomedy.com P. O.P. ART THEATRE G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www.popartcentre.co.za.

RADIUM BEER HALL 282 Louise Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 38 66, www.theradium.co.za SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE AND CULTURAL CENTRE 73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, sophiatown.net SA STATE THEATRE 320 Pretorius St, Pretoria City Centre, tel. +27 12 322 7944, www.statetheatre.co.za SOWETO THEATRE Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, www.promusica.co.za THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 8606, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za THE ORBIT C-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645 or +27 78 398 6250, www.theorbit.co.za U.J. ARTS CENTRE THEATRE U.J. Kingsway Campus, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 484 1256 WITS THEATRE B-2, Cnr Jorissen St and Station St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1376, www.wits.ac.az/witstheatre

Trend Capri, NIROXProjects

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May – August 2014

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What’s On 31.07 THURSDAY – 20.08 WEDNESDAY ROGER BALLEN RETROSPECTIVE One of the country’s most influential photographers, Ballen’s distinctive ‘documentary fiction’ style is stark and challenging. It frequently blurs the lines between drawing and photography, fantasy and reality.QCirca Gallery, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www. circagallery.co.za.

FNB Joburg Art Fair, Sandton Convention Centre

COMEDY Regular comedy nights include: Parker’s Comedy Club Stand Up (Tue–Sat at 20:00), The Box Standup (Sun 19:30 at P.O.P. Art Theatre) and Jittery Citizens improv (last Thu of the month at Market Theatre).

Date 10.05 23.05–24.05

30.05–01.06

30.05–31.05

30.05–31.05

04.06–06.07

20.06–21.06

18.07

09.08–10.08

Event and venue Jeff Dunham – Disorderly Conduct.

Coca-Cola Dome John Vlismas – Revelations, a Sacred Cow Apocalypse.

Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City Ashvin Gidwani’s History of India.

Smash hit comedy stage show from India. Mandela Theatre, Joburg Theatre Lord of the Flings – One Show to Rule Them All. Andrew Simpson spoofs fantasy fiction favourites. The Fringe, Joburg Theatre Stand Up Africa. African stand-up comedy night. Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City Defending the Caveman. Comedy stage show about the battle of the sexes. Pieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino Comedy Central Colourblind. No holds barred stand-up probing South Africa’s sensitive skin. Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City 67 Minutes of Laughter. Stand-up comedy night in aid of the Nelson Mandela Children’s Hospital. Lyric Theatre, Gold Reef City Evita and Co. Special Women’s Day show by one of the country’s best political satirists Pieter-Dirk Uys. Emperor’s Palace

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

22.08 THURSDAY – 24.08 SUNDAY FNB JOBURG ART FAIR 2014 Africa’s leading contemporary art fair features dozens of international galleries and well-known African artists and is one of the most anticipated art events in Joburg. This year there is a special focus on Nigerian contemporary art.QSandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton, www.fnbjoburgartfair.co.za.

FESTIVALS 09.05 FRIDAY – 18.05 SUNDAY EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL 2014 Ten internationally acclaimed films, representing the best of European cinema #EuroFilmFestSA. The theme of the selection is ‘Beyond Love’.QCinema Nouveau, Rosebank Mall, Rosebank, tel. 082 16789, www.sterkinekor.com.

18.05 SUNDAY – 24.05 SATURDAY AFRICA WEEK STREET FESTIVAL A week-long street festival celebrates the diversity of African cultures through music, song, dance, craft, clothing, food, film and art.QRockey St, Yeoville/Bellevue, www. adf.org.za.

02.10 THURSDAY – 05.10 SUNDAY JOBURG CITY FESTIVAL 2014 To celebrate the revitalised Joburg city centre, this exciting event features walking tours, concerts, live music, theatre and exhibitions in the inner city. Expect special offers at local bars, hotels and restaurants.QVarious venues, joburgcity.net.

SHOPPING Trendy weekend craft and food markets that offer unique gifts, mouthwatering food, craft beers, family entertainment and a lively atmosphere are extremely popular hangouts for Joburgers. More traditional markets, such as the Mai Mai healers’ market and the Fordsburg night market, are great places to see a very different side of the city. See Shopping.

25.05 SUNDAY 2014 PORT AND RED WINE FESTIVAL The country’s best red wines, ports, sherries and brandies on show 40 minutes north-west of Joburg. Supervised entertainment for kids.QThe Mill, Rustenburg Rd, Moloney, Magaliesburg, tel. +27 82 571 2753, www.winefestival. co.za. From 11:00–15:00. Tickets from R100. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 31.05 SATURDAY – 01.06 SUNDAY VINTAGE WITH LOVE A giant sale of the best picks of pre-loved designer vintage clothing and accessories at very low prices. Money raised goes to local literacy charities.QThe Forum I, Wanderers Building, The Campus Office Park, cnr Sloane St and Main Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 79 521 9090. Open Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–13:00.

16.06 MONDAY AND 9.08 SATURDAY ANTIQUES AND COLLECTABLES FAIR AT THE VOORTREKKER MONUMENT A vast market with some 167 stalls selling antiques, curiosities and collectables.QVoortrekker Monument, Eeufees Rd, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 326 6770, www.vtm.org.za.

Open 09:00–15:00. Entrance R20 per car.

06.08 WEDNESDAY – 10.08 SUNDAY DECOREX 2014 The country’s leading home décor and design expo. This year’s event showcases the 100% Design South Africa exhibition.QGallagher Convention Centre, 19 Richards Drive Midrand, tel. +27 11 549 8300, www.decorex.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00.

24.05 SATURDAY KINGSMEAD BOOK FAIR Join a host of top writers and media personalities for a day of literary discussions, interviews, talks and book shopping. The fair will finish with a performance by political satirist, Pieter-Dirk-Uys.QKingsmead College, 132 Oxford Rd (entrance on Tottenham Ave), Melrose, tel. +27 11 731 7300, www.kingsmead.co.za.

SPORT 31.05 SATURDAY – 12.07 SATURDAY VODACOM SUPERRUGBY 2014 31.05 Lions vs Vodacom Bulls (Pretoria) 04.07 Lions vs Melbourne Rebels 12.07 Lions vs Toyota Free State Cheetahs QG-2 Ellis Park Stadium, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 8644, www.ellispark.co.za.

MADAME ZINGARA Madame Zingara Theatre of Dreams After Forever Tour is a dinner-theatre show that keeps getting better. Acrobatics, cabaret, humour, camp comedy, music, magic and a four-course meal served in one of the world’s last remaining mirror tents make this the perfect night out.QMontecasino. Advanced bookings required. Tickets from R440.

16.08 SATURDAY SOUTH AFRICA VS ARGENTINA The Springboks take on the Argentinians in their first match of the 2014 Castle Rugby Championship.QLoftus Versfeld Stadium, 440 Kirkness St, Arcadia, Pretoria, www.sanzarrugby.com. Kick-off at 17:00.

For cycling events, see Sport & Outdoors.

THEATRE UNTIL 11.05 SUNDAY AMAMBAZO – THE MUSICAL The incredible story of the award-winning South African male singing group, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, which rose from humble beginnings to international acclaim.QSouth African State Theatre. Tue–Sun. Tickets R40–R100.

12.06 THURSDAY – 13.07 SUNDAY FIFA WORLD CUP 2014 One of the greatest sporting events in the world, the FIFA World Cup 2014 starts on 12 June in Brazil. All secondstage matches kick off between 18:00 and 22:00. For more information on bars and sports clubs where you can watch the big games, see our Nightlife section.

26.07 SATURDAY KAIZER CHIEFS VS ORLANDO PIRATES The Soweto Derby is one of the most highly anticipated local sporting events of the year.QFNB Stadium, Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Johannesburg South, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za. Kick-off at 15:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Vigil, Theatre on the Square

EVENT TICKETS Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web. Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www. webtickets.co.za.

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What’s On UNTIL 08.06 SUNDAY ONE WOMAN FARCE In this prize-winning, one-woman comedy, Louise SaintClaire plays every member of the wacky Hodgkins family, who are adapting to the arrival of a very spirited granny.

QPieter Toerien Main Theatre, Montecasino. Wed– Sun. Tickets R150.

Missing, Market Theatre

UNTIL 11.05 SUNDAY FULL MOON This production by Vuyani Dance Theatre is a highly creative epic adventure involving a modern and mystical dance presented by a 25-strong local cast of dancers.QC2, The Mandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre. Evening performances at 20:00, Sun at 15:15. Also at 11:00 on 06.05 and 08.05, and 15:00 on 04.05 and 11.05. Tickets R140–R230.

UNTIL 11.05 SUNDAY PALE NATIVES Paul Slabolepszy’s Pale Natives are a bunch of white South African men, nervously awaiting the change to a democratic South Africa.QB-4, Market Theatre. Evening performances at 20:00, and also at 15.00 on Sun. No performances Mon. Tickets R79–R168.

23.05 FRIDAY – 01.06 SUNDAY MADIBA THE AFRICAN OPERA The incredible life of Nelson Mandela is told in this new two-act opera. The production captures his life story – from his childhood and youth in the traditional community surrounding Mthata to his political rise, prison sentence and his eventual release to become the country’s first democratically elected president – setting it to powerful song.QSouth African State Theatre, Pretoria. Tickets from Computicket.

CINEMAS NU METRO Various locations, www.numetro.co.za.

STER-KINEKOR Various locations, www.sterkinekor. com.

THE BIOSCOPE G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, info@thebioscope.co.za, www.thebioscope.co.za.

CINEMA NOUVEAU Rosebank Mall, Rosebank, tel.

082 16789, www.sterkinekor.com.

CINE CENTRE Killarney Mall, 60 Riviera Road, tel.

0861 246 300, www.cinecentre.co.za.

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

14.05 WEDNESDAY – 01.06 SUNDAY THE MOTHER OF ALL EATING A tender deal gone wrong brings an abrupt end to a corrupt government minister’s extravagant lifestyle. Written by award-winning author Zakes Mda.QB-4, Market Theatre. Tue–Sun. Tickets R79–R158.

27.05 TUESDAY – 21.06 SATURDAY VIGIL A black comedy with lots of absurd circumstances, unexpected turns and a gripping plot twist.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tue–Sat. Tickets R70–R140.

04.06 WEDNESDAY – 07.07 MONDAY MISSING Starring theatre legend John Kani, this is the story of an exile who returns to South Africa hoping to join the government of the newly democratic country. He brings with him his Swedish wife and their grown-up daughter, who harbour their own dilemmas about what it means to return home.QB-4, Market Theatre.

11.06 WEDNESDAY – 29.06 SUNDAY THE VIEW A young man incarcerated in a prison far from earth watches a video of interviews conducted with those closest to him. The play deals with notions of loss, memory, hope, isolation and discrimination.QB-4, Market Theatre.

27.06 FRIDAY – 29.06 SUNDAY CIRQUE DE LA SYMPHONIE Cirque extravaganza with aerial flyers, acrobats, contortionists, dancers, and more, set to music by the KwaZuluNatal Philharmonic Orchestra.QC-2, Mandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R400.

11.07 FRIDAY – 10.08 SUNDAY MONTY PYTHON’S SPAMALOT An all-South African cast lead this production of the hit musical comedy based on the classic film Monty Python and the Holy Grail. It retells the legend of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table and features a bevy of showgirls, cows, killer rabbits and French people!QMandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre. Tickets R180–R300.

14.08 THURSDAY – 31.08 SUNDAY SOUL FOOT – THE WORLD ON STAGE Fifteen highly skilled traditional performers fuse dance, music and acrobatics from all corners of the globe into an impressive work of artQC-2, Mandela Theatre at the Joburg Theatre. Tickets R160–R260. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On ART GALLERIES Many of the city’s best art galleries are situated along a 1km stretch of Jan Smuts Ave, between Jellicoe and Wells Aves). On one end ‘Gallery Row’ starts with Circa Gallery and Everard Read showcasing collections and exhibitions by established and emerging South African artists. Take a turn at 7th Ave to Gallery MOMO for African contemporary art. Head back to Jan Smuts Ave for the Goodman Gallery (A-list South African artists and photographers). Look out for the great bead art at the traffic light. Doors away is Chester Court for Res Gallery (photography), David Krut Projects (prints) and, facing them, Lizamore & Associates (fine art) and the David Krut Bookstore. Next up is Kim Sacks Gallery (ceramics and African artefacts). In the city centre, visit galleries in Maboneng and Braamfontein. See johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for gallery info and events.

BALLET, CLASSICAL MUSIC Ballet 09.05–11.05 04.07–06.07 20.06–22.06

Crown of the Russian Ballet. Marcellus Theatre, Emperor's Palace Russian Ballet Stars. Joburg Theatre Stars of American Ballet. Teatro at Montecasino

Classical music 07.05–08.05

14.05–15.05

21.05–22.05

28.05–29.05 Every Fri at 13:00

Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra: Rossini, Rachmaninoff, Mussorgsky. Linder Auditorium Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra: Mendelssohn, Schumann. Linder Auditorium Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra: Brahms, Beethoven.

Linder Auditorium Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra: Weber, Bruch, Sibelius.

Linder Auditorium Lunch Hour Classical Concerts.

Theatre on the Square

The Art Fair for Emerging Contemporary Artists

TURBINE HALL 65 Ntemi Piliso Street Newtown, Johannesburg Russian Ballet Stars, Joburg Theatre

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Arriving & Getting Around GAUTRAIN Joburg’s pride and joy, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train‘) links central Johannesburg (Park Station) with the main business districts of the north (Sandton and Rosebank) and beyond to Pretoria, O.R. Tambo International and various suburbs in between.

Buy a Gautrain Gold Card at any station and top it up at the kiosk or vending machine.

Every station has a dedicated car park with special rates for Gautrain users, payable by Gold Card. Trains run daily from 05:30–20:30 at intervals of 12–30 minutes. Timetables are available online or download the Gautrain app.

QTel. 0800 428 87246, www.gautrain.co.za.

FEEDER BUSES A network of buses connects to every Gautrain station. Pay with your Gautrain Gold Card (available from the station kiosk; you must have a minimum of R20 credit on your card). If you use the Gautrain within an hour of using the bus, the bus fare is R6, otherwise it costs R20.

Bus timetables match the train timetable, and there are route maps and timetables at all Gautrain stations and bus stops. Realtime bus tracking is available on the Gautrain app. The buses run between 05:30 and 20:30, with a limited weekend service. There is a weekend and public holiday service between the Rosebank Gautrain station and one of the city’s most popular green spaces, Zoo Lake.

The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:15 and the last bus returns from Zoo Lake at 18:35, with buses running at 30-minute intervals. Stops on the route include the Parktown North Quarter, Zoo Lake, Parkview Post Office, Johannesburg Zoo and the Museum of Military History.QTel. 010 223 1098.

Minibus taxis throng Bree Street in the City Centre Chris Kirchhoff, mediaclubsouthafrica.com

Joburg is a big, sprawling city. Urban life tends to spread across various suburbs, each with its own distinct identity and style (see Joburg Districts). Depending on the length of your stay, you will find that renting a car makes life easier – outside the city centre there are entire neighbourhoods that are not easily reached with public transport.

ARRIVING IN JOBURG AIRPORTS AND FLYING The city is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, and Lanseria Airport. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

GAUTRAIN Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and beyond to Pretoria from O.R. Tambo International Airport.

O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TAXI ASSOCIATION (ORTIATA) There are many taxi touts at the airport but this is the official taxi company. Fares start at R16/km.QTel. 0861 243 243, www.jiata.co.za/ortiata.

LANSERIA TAXIS Lanseria is served by taxis and private shuttles.QTel. +27 11 326 3260, www.lanseriataxis.com.

AIRPORT SHUTTLES EZ SHUTTLE This service offers airport transfers, coach shuttles, point-to-point transport or Gautrain shuttles from R405.QTel. 0861 397 488 or +27 12 348 8040, www. ezshuttle.co.za. Open 24/7.

RHINO SHUTTLES This service charges R400 for one person and R50 per additional passenger for transfers from either airport to Johannesburg. Shuttle transport or chauffeur transport to out-of-town destinations such as Sun City, Pilanesberg Game Reserve and the Kruger Park are also available. Book in advance.QTel. +27 11 793 2282, www. rhinoshuttles.co.za.

For more airport transport options, domestic airlines, shuttles and intercity buses, see Directory.

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Arriving & Getting Around GETTING AROUND DRIVING IN JOBURG To get around easily you need a car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and read our Safety Tips in City Basics. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass other traffic on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane. Traffic lights often don’t work; when you come across one, treat it as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is rampant, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system (www. nra.co.za) was recently introduced.

CAR RENTAL AFRICARHIRE Reservations for rental companies Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire.QTel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire.com. Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun. BUSES REA VAYA The new Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and secure bus stops.

Routes run from the city centre to destinations in Soweto.

Smartcards can be bought and loaded at the bus stop outside Park Station or at the Carlton Centre, and you need to create a PIN when you first activate it. Fares are calculated by distance and start at around R5. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and run from around 06:00–18:30, less frequently at weekends. The electronic timetables at bus stops are rarely accurate.Qwww.reavaya.org.za.

Useful routes For tourists, the circular City Centre C-3 route passes all the main tourist sights as well as Park Station Gautrain. The C-5 and T-3 leave from Park Station and makes a stop at Milpark (close to 44 Stanley Avenue and a 15-minute walk from the centre of Melville).

METROBUS The creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system ferries commuters from the suburbs to City Centre and back. Most bus routes terminate at Gandhi Square in City Centre. The majority of buses depart between 06:00 and 09:30. Few buses run during the day and you will be lucky to find one after 18:00 or at the weekend.

To get route information, visit the information office inside Gandhi Mall on Gandhi Square. Fares start at at R10 and are paid to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your bus stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked.

Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal (see the ‘Minibus taxi hand signals’ box overleaf ). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and MTN Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using them at night or alone. Hand the fare to the driver – R5 to R10 for short journeys. Drivers prefer coins or small notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually the easiest way. Although using them can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers they offer great insight into everyday South African life.

TAXIS Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out. Except for outside hotels, there are few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150.

OLIVER TAMBO EXHIBITION

NAVIGATING THE CITY

If you have some time on your hands at O.R. Tambo International Airport, head for the viewing deck at the furthest end of international departures, and one floor up.

There you will find a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, freedom fighter and national hero.

Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues.

Street names, especially those of major thoroughfares, change quickly and the erection of new street signs often does not keep pace with the renaming.

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Arriving & Getting Around MAXI TAXIQTel. +27 11 648 1258 (free call), www.maxitaxicabs.co.za.

ORANGE CABSQTel. 0861 700 222, www.orangecab.co.za.

QUICK CABQTel. 0861 665 566, www.myquickcab.co.za.

ZEBRA CABSQTel. 0861 105 105, www.zebracabs.co.za.

SNAPPCAB Download the app, register to call and pay for the taxi, check your route and receive reliable arrival times.

Qwww.snappcab.com.

UBER Download the app. Flat rates apply to direct trips between specified locations.Qwww.uber.com/cities/johannesburg.

WALKING Much of Johannesburg, especially the northern suburbs, is designed for cars rather than pedestrians. By day City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot, while some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville and Parkhurst, are great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only, and don’t flash your valuables.

Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, and do not cross the bridges over the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. Overall cars are the biggest danger to pedestrians, especially at traffic lights, so watch out for oblivious drivers. Also, be on the lookout for uncovered manholes and uneven paving.

GETTING AWAY

TUK-TUKS

The latest addition to Joburg’s transport network is the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks based at Sandton Central and in Melville. While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone, they do make travelling between suburbs easier.

Also, with fares starting at R25 you can’t argue with the price.

E-TUKTUK Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R35. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.QTel.+27 82 695 0211, www.e-tuktuk.co.za.

SHESHA TUKS Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street and operates within a 5km radius. It can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 0861 743 742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.

CYCLING Cycling is a favourite pastime here but the city is not always safe for cyclists. The Johannesburg Urban Cyclists Association (JUCA) is campaigning to make Joburg bike-friendly by 2015. JUCA publishes a Joburg bicycle map available at www.juca.org.za. See Sport and Outdoors.

TRAINS BLUE TRAIN Possibly the most luxurious rail-travel experience in the world, a journey on the Blue Train from Pretoria to Cape Town is a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Rates include superb meals and drinks and excursions to historic towns.

The 27-hour journey starts at Pretoria Central Station.QTel. +27 12 334 8459/+27 12 334 8460, www.bluetrain. co.za. One-way rates from R13 265 to R15 155.

PREMIER CLASSE TRAIN Luxury train offering a more affordable and less opulent version of the Blue Train. Accommodation is in comfortable two-bed cabins with shared shower facilities. Routes to Cape Town (25 hours) and Durban (14 hours) leave from Joburg’s Park Station.QTel. +27 11 773 9247, www.premierclasse.co.za. One-way ticket to Cape Town from R2 650.

SHOSHOLOZA MEYL Not known for its punctuality but still a fun budget option: Cape Town route 27 hours, Durban 13 hours, Port Elizabeth 20 hours, and East London 20 hours.

Trains leave from Park Station and have seat-only and ‘tourist class’ (two- and four-berth sleeper) carriages. Bedding costs extra.QTel. +27 11 77 45244/086 000 8888, www. shosholozameyl.co.za. One-way sleeper train to Cape Town from R600.

MINIBUS-TAXI HAND SIGNALS This ingenious system was developed during the apartheid era by mostly black commuters, who had to travel long distances to and from work. The easiest way to test a minibus taxi is to ride one to City Centre, and the best way to understand the system is to ask other commuters.

Braamfontein to City Centre

Soweto to local

Eastgate to Braamfontein

City Centre

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank

Images by Joburg artist Susan Woolf from her books and exhibition, Taxi Hand Signs: Symbolic Landscapes of Public Culture

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Where to stay SANDTON SUN N The first five-star hotel in Joburg’s prime financial and shopping district, this grande dame was recently updated.

Rooms come with lots of mod-con luxuries. The San Bar with its superb deck overlooking Sandton is a popular after-work spot. For a different kind of bliss, head to the luxury spa.QCnr 5th and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/deluxe/sandtonsun. 334 rooms from R2 400. TUFLCwRW

BOUTIQUE HOTELS ‘Welcome to your Joburg stay’

Take your pick from super luxe to the best budget hotels.

LUXURY HOTELS AFRICAN PRIDE MELROSE ARCH N Six-foot doormen and piped scent, state-of-the-art meeting rooms complete with colour-coded chocolate M&Ms, customised kids' rooms and lots of other wow features.

Hotel staff live to create memorable experiences. Sip drinks on the wrap-around veranda or head to the extraordinary poolside and garden maze.Q1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.africanpridehotels. com. 118 rooms, from R3 380.HCUTLW HYATT REGENCY This is where the business who’s who meet, also favoured for its superb location in Rosebank’s shopping and entertainment district. For a local twist on international cuisine, eat at One Nine One, or sip sundowners at the garden Terrace wine and cigar bar. Ditch the meetings for Phumula spa. The Gautrain station is metres away.Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 280 1234, johannesburg. regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms, 15 suites, from R3 600. iTHUFLBKCwW INTERCONTINENTAL JHB O.R. TAMBO This luxury cocoon at Africa’s busiest airport is a 68.7m walk from international arrivals and the Gautrain. Plush rooms, but the standout feature is the spa overlooking the runway. State-of-the-art conference facilities make this a haven for the fly-in, fly-out crowd.QO.R. Tambo International Airport, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 961 5400, www.ihg.com. 138 rooms, from R3 850. THU� FLKCwW INTERCONTINENTAL JHB SANDTON TOWERS Its stately foyer has palm trees and a Koi pond and attracts kings, presidents, CEOs and burly men with earpieces.

Suites are designed to host high-level meetings, or there’s the 27th-floor executive club. A sky bridge take you to the spa, Sandton Convention Centre and Nelson Mandela Square.QCnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www.intercontinental.com/johannesburg.

231 rooms, from R3 185. HUFLKCwW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA A second home for international dignitaries and the city’s Champagne-and-polo set, the spacious suites are decorated with lots of precious objets. Expect polished service and fine cuisine. Lunch overlooking the sumptuous gardens or retreat to the Balinese-style spa.QAlma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns.co.za. 40 suites from R4 950. iHFLKDCwW TEN BOMPAS HOTEL Each suite was designed as a home from home, with a fireplace for winter nights, plenty of natural light, groundfloor patios and balconies for easy garden access. The hotel restaurant, The Winehouse (see Where to Eat), has a French-inspired menu and a superb wine cellar.Q10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.10bompas. com. 10 suites, from R3 500. THULKCW THE PEECH This chic hideaway has spacious suites set in a verdant garden. The décor is Africa modern. Centrally located in Melrose, it has an outdoor swimming pool, bistro with garden views and a patio from which to admire the superb setting.Q61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www. thepeech.co.za. 16 rooms, from R2 400. iTHU� FLKCW SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This four-star hotel overlooks the birthplace of the Freedom Charter (1955). The hotel’s Jazz Maniacs restaurant is an elegant venue, and Kliptown’s historic and busy main street is at your front door, along with the Kliptown Museum.QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www. sowetohotel. co.za. 48 rooms, from R2020. TULKW

SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

i Breakfast included

T Child friendly

H Conference facilities

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Business centre

K Restaurant

w Spa

C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi

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Where to stay PROTEA HOTEL PARKTONIAN ALL SUITE The rooftop (for guests only) pool deck and gym offer breathtaking 360-degree skyline views. The lobby is vast and all rooms are one-bedroom suites. The buzzy Orchards buffet restaurant is open day and night, and the Gautrain station is a short walk away. On weekdays business drop-offs and collections within a 10km radius are offered.QC-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites, from R850. iTHUFLKCW

Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel, Sandton

MID-RANGE HOTELS CROWNE PLAZA THE ROSEBANK N This smart stop in bustling Rosebank is the home of the fashion set and a great meeting place with its expansive lobby lounge and specially designed laptop counter.

Drinks at the hotel‘s Circle Bar is de rigueur. The comfortable rooms are perfect for party people with a ‘sleep floor’ where housekeeping services rooms on a later schedule than usual.QCnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www.therosebank.co.za. 318 rooms, rates on request. iTHFCwLW FAIRCITY MAPUNGUBWE HOTEL The apartment-style rooms are spacious and tastefully themed in this hotel named after the legendary African kingdom famed for its gold-trading links. The bar is housed in a bank vault, where you can sip a drink amid the original safety-deposit boxes. Legend has it that Boer commandos raided in 1899 to fund their war efforts.QC5, 50 Marshall St, Marshalltown, City Centre, tel. +27 11 429 2600, www.mapungubwehotel.co.za. 96 rooms, rates on request. iTHFLKCW PROTEA HOTEL BALALAIKA SANDTON N Sandton’s oldest hotel is a popular conference venue and has retained the feel of a country-style hotel, complete with the Lords Bar which stays open past midnight. Away from its bustling lobby it feels more like a resort, with its low buildings enclosing lush gardens and two swimming pools, where flight crews from Europe lap up the sun.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms, rates on request.

CRHiFUTLW

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

RADISSON BLU GAUTRAIN HOTEL A businesslike exterior hides the modern, stylish interiors and busy social life of Central One Restaurant and its bar and lounge area. Wooden floors, contemporary South African artwork and interesting design features are abundant. With the Gautrain and Sandton City metres from the door, this is a super-popular nest for the business crowd and global shoppers.QCnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www.radissonblu.com/ hotelsandton-johannesburg. 216 rooms, from R1 199.

THUFLKCW THABA YA BATSWANA ECO HOTEL N Set in the exquisite Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, this is an ideal getaway (just 18km from the city). Stay in luxury thatched-roof rondavels or a modern glass edifice with incredible views. There’s a lion educational centre for rescued cubs and the Olive Tree coffee shop for afternoon indulgence. Mexico’s football team stayed here during World Cup 2010 and left a love note.QImpala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www. thabahotel.co.za, 52 rooms from R2 190. iHC� wULKTW THE MASLOW HOTEL This slick, contemporary business destination is also a social hotspot with Friday sundowners and Sunday jazz events at the pool, and a great base for shopping excursions. A splendid feature is the luxury transit Wayfarer lounge, with complimentary snacks and sumptuous bathrooms. The Lacuna Restaurant is an excellent dining choice (see Where to Eat).QCnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www. suninternational.com/maslow. 280 rooms, from R1 299. THU� FLKCwW

BUDGET DESIGN HOTELS BANNISTER HOTEL A fresh budget hotel with the urban delights of hipster Braamfontein on its doorstep. Rooms are modern, bright cocoons designed for comfort. A new restaurant, City Kitchen, offers farm-to-table dining, a city first. Owner Andrew Bannister is a former photographer, and his iconic albumcover image of Zimbabwean singer Oliver Mtukudzi graces the entrance.QC-2/3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. 31 rooms, from R595. THLKW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay EASY HOTEL This vibrant hotel is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities. The rooms are compact and the décor cheerfully nods to interesting local historical characters. A fantastic location from which to launch your city adventures, with great restaurants, coffee shops, galleries and nightlife on your doorstep and easy access to public transport.QC-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.easyhotel.com. 60 rooms, from R740.

TLW GARDEN COURT MILPARK A recent refurbishment has turned this three-star into a quintessential urban hotel, its décor inspired by the Rea Vaya, Joburg’s new bus service which stops outside the entrance. Its spacious rooms belong to a higher-star hotel, and it is next to the chic shopping and restaurant hub of 44 Stanley.QCnr Empire Rd and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 10 219 1000, www.tsogosunhotels.com. 251 rooms, from R949. iHCFULRW TWELVE DECADES JOHANNESBURG ART HOTEL This hotel pays homage to the city’s history, with each room individually designed to capture a historic moment. The décor is playful and stylish, and you should ask to view the other rooms. A favourite is room 1946-1956, titled ‘A part love A part hate’, which references apartheid‘s proscription on love across the colour bar with a number of witty rejoinders. The streets of Maboneng, with a theatre, cinema and restaurants, beckon.QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. 086 122 6787, www.urbanhiphotels.com. 16 rooms, from R870. THFLCwW

Welcome to Johannesburg’s best guest houses www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A comprehensive website that offers 31 affordable accommodation options.

All our establishments are centrally located and within easy travelling distance of the Rosebank Gautrain station, Hyde Park, Sandton, the Johannesburg city centre and major motorways.

GUEST HOUSES AND B&Bs LIZ AT LANCASTER This cosy four-star guest house set in a lush garden offers the option of self-catering accommodation or B&B rooms.

Cottages have private entrances and enclosed patios. Owner Liz Delmont has thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible, including underfloor heating for chilly winter nights, fully equipped kitchens, wifi, king-sized beds, a same-day laundry service, private phone lines and transport. Liz is a maven on all things Joburg, so ask her advice on what to do.Q79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster.co.za. 7 rooms: doubles R450–R760, king R550– R895. iT6LCW

Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, overnighting or here for a longer stay, we invite you to experience our friendly hospitality and service.

4-star luxury guest house. Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor. Close to Sandton and Rosebank. www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223 facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Where to stay SATYAGRAHA HOUSE N For tranquillity and a switch-off from the demands of modern living, head to this exquisite guest house, the site of a museum dedicated to the life of Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1907. The atmospheric space offers yoga and meditation in the garden, along with vegetarian meals.Q15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms, from R1 350. iTLW

BACKPACKER HOSTELS 12 Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel, Maboneng

AGTERPLAAS N Styled as a traditional Afrikaans farmhouse with a huge windmill in the garden, barbecue area and Aga to warm the lounge on winter nights, this guest house ticks all ’authentic South African‘ boxes. At the foot of Melville Koppies, rooms are individually decorated with lots of Oregon pine and antique wardrobes. Breakfast is a healthy farm breakfast, and a Belgian chef and Malay cook are on hand.

Q66 Sixth Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za. 14 rooms, rates on request. i LUCKY BEAN GUESTHOUSE N Sister of the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on Melville’s main strip, this guest house in a quiet tree-lined street is well-concealed behind its hydrangea and ivy-covered wall. The individually decorated suites have tasteful flourishes and luxury linens, and come with private entrances and easy access to the pool. Ask for the Skyline suite with a treetop view.Q129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www.luckybeanguesthouse.co.za. 9 rooms, from R950. iCLW

CURIOCITY BACKPACKERS This new hostel in Maboneng has the look of a Wild West motel, with its balcony overhanging the city streets. There is a plunge pool, hideout bar, kiosk, a shisa nyama (traditional barbecue) stand, plus it offers an exchange programme for visiting artists: accommodation for art. A great location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. Bheki Dube, the managing partner, has extensive knowledge of the city and operates Main Street Walks (see Tours).Q302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 592 0515, http://curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds, from R150.

THUFLCW LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This celebrated backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms or just pitch your tent in the garden. There’s a self-catering kitchen or enjoy cooked breakfasts, home-style meals and braais. There’s also welcoming courtyard with an open fire, games and a rocking beach-style bar. The surrounding area is friendly and safe, with the main sights within easy walking distance.

Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds, from R270. iTLW

MOTEL MIPICHI From the metal gates spelling out ‘MPC’ to the rough face-brick walls and stripped wooden floors, this establishment breathes fresh air across one of Melville’s thoroughfares.

Designed by Andrew Makin, well-known for his work on the landmark Constitutional Court building, the rooms have great original features. Decorated with the owner’s light but quirky touch, room names are inspired by art on the walls. Breakfast is served daily and the motel is on a tuk-tuk (three-wheelers) route.Q35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi. co.za. 6 rooms: singles R650, doubles R880. iLW 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers

For more info and ideas on where to stay, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Choose from pavement dining or gourmet cuisine. Thursday to Saturday nights usually require bookings. In summer, sit outdoors. With South African wines being so good it is worth bringing your own store-bought bottle. (See Drinks for recommendations.) Note corkage fees. Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted cards. Enjoy your meal!

AFRICAN ANKA’S KITCHEN N No-frills, African-style home food. The inimitable Anka prepares her hearty, traditional African stews and curries every morning for the day ahead. They are so popular that by one o’ clock most of it is already gone. Order at the counter and eat at one of the handful of streetside tables.

QD-5, 7A Loveday Street, Marshalltown, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1440. Open 10:00-18:00. R. BS DISTRICT SIX EATERY (D6) Spices and riotous décor recall the owner’s District Six childhood (a once vibrant Cape Town neighbourhood, home of the Cape Malay people, destroyed by apartheid). The small menu of traditional dishes includes bredie (stew) and curries.

Friendly service.Q42B Greenhill Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 7226. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:30. Closed Mon. Corkage R15. RRR. UEBS HOUSE OF BAOBAB Bright interiors, a youthful atmosphere and dishes influenced by African cuisines, including Nigerian and Morroccan. Occasional live West African music performances are a highlight.QG-4, Main Street Life, cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 1632, .

Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. EBS LITTLE ADDIS Heavenly smells waft from this tiny place serving meat or vegetarian platters on injera bread, and made according to the owner’s family recipes.QG-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 683 8675, www.littleaddis.co.za.

Open 11:00–22:00. Closed Sun. Find it at Market on Main, Maboneng, on Sundays. RR. NB

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways Facebook page

W Wi-fi

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Based on average main course. No prices for cafés given. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Bean Republic, Melrose

SHARP! BRAAI A quirky little braai stand producing meaty smoke to sounds from a ghetto blaster wafting out of a converted shipping container. Beer-crate seating and you order your shisa nyama food from the butcher counter.QG-4, Cnr Kruger and Fox Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open 10:00–22:00. RR. NB

ASIAN 2 THAI 4 N Hidden behind non-descript walls this authentic little gem has a large yet cosy deck lit by paper lanterns and fairylights. A relaxed and friendly dining experience. Dishes from mild to hot (be careful, it’s the real deal!).Q59 Corlett Drive, Illovo, tel. +27 11 440 3000, www.2thai4.co.za.

Open 12:00–22:00. RR. BSL GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR N Dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen delicately prepared by chef Nick Scott. Catch him on a quiet day (increasingly rare) and he will improvise. The pared down setting is a Melville rooftop.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910, . Open Tue–Fri, 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–23:00, Sun 13:00–20:00. Closed Mon. RR. L GWEFEY An extensive menu of authentic Chinese, Indonesian, Malaysian and Thai dishes served up in a sleek interior with great views. Lunch-time specials attract the business crowd, with low lighting turning up the romance quotient after hours.QWorld Trade Centre Johannesburg, cnr West Rd South and Lower Rd, Morningside, www.gwefey.com. Open 12:00–22:00. RRR. UL SIMPLY ASIA Cheerful, well-priced noodle-bar chain with a large menu of fragrant and flavourful Thai, Chinese and Vietnameseinspired dishes. Ratchet up the spiciness if you dare.

QShop 2, Parkhurst Sq, 38 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 3037, www.simplyasia.co.za. Open 11:30–21:30.

R. SL May – August 2014

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Where to eat FISHERMAN’S PLATE A no-fuss, no-frills canteen-style Taiwanese restaurant.

Dishes here are full of flavour and offer great value. Bring a crowd and spin that lazy Susan with curried prawns, cashew nut chicken and peppered beef.Q18 Derrick Ave, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 622 0480. Open 12:00–14:30, 17:30–21:00. Closed Mon. R. USB RED CHAMBER A Joburg institution, owner Emma Chen presides over unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes (no MSG). Famous for spicy cucumber salad and Peking duck, it‘s worth heading to a shopping centre for.QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www.redchamber. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. TULS YAMATO A stiff atmosphere takes little away from this much-awarded restaurant with its superior menu of traditional Japanese dishes, sushi and sashimi. Try the gyoza dumplings or light tempura dishes.Q198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www.yamato.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00, 18:00– 22:00. Closed Sun. RR–RRR. ULBS THE BLACKANESE SUSHI AND WINE BAR Fusing African flavours with Japanese cuisine, this cute sushi spot in trendy Maboneng has low lighting, very low seating and enormous and delicious sushi platters.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455, www.theblackanese.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Corkage R30. RR. LS

BURGER BAR ROCOMAMAS N Burgers with exceptional budget-price toppings, ribs and chicken wings top the menu here. A sit-down fast-food joint, with good service.QShop 19, Appletons Village, cnr Hill St and Malibongwe Dr, Ferndale, tel. +27 11 791 5928, rocomamas.com. Open Sun–Wed 09:00-22:00, Thu, Sat until 23:00, Fri until 00:00. R. LBS WOLFPACK Weekend crowds pack this hip eatery for manly beef burgers with a range of delicious sides. Friendly service can slow with the buzz. Order a craft beer and head to the roof-garden seating.Q21 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 7705. Open Tue–Sat 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–20:00.

Closed Mon. Reservations essential. Corkage R50. RR. UBSW BEEFCAKES For burgers and camp comedy, join the muscular topless men and glittery cowboy-hat-wearing gangs of horny wannabe bachelorettes whose enthusiasm for the place rivals that of the gay men it was intended for.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 114 475 266, www. beefcakes.co.za. Reservations essential. Open 12:00 until late. Closed Mon. RR. UEL 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CAFÉS BEAN REPUBLIC N The Republic’s genial leader, Edwin, mans the coffee machine and welcomes a stream of regulars. Simply decorated using reclaimed wood and bean sacks, it‘s an unpretentious, welcoming spot to camp out with your laptop.Q81 Corlett Dr, Melrose, tel. +27 11 440 4342, www.beanrepublic.co.za. Open 06:00 until late. Sat, Sun 07:00 until late. EBSLW CRAVE N Professionally run with a personal touch, mainly catering to office workers who want a fresh and healthy lunch pronto. It’s worth taking time to sit down and enjoy a freshly squeezed juice and hot meal such as the popular burrito.QIllovo Edge Office Park, Cnr Fricker and Harries Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 243 5009, . Open 06.30–17:00, Sat 07:00–15:00. Closed Sun. UBW CROFT & COFFEE Good service, Illy coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media workers and wannabes. It’s also a tasty lunch choice for salads, toasties and prego rolls.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, . Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. TULBW DALEAH’S This popular café has a relaxed atmosphere and friendly service. The décor is quirkily charming and there’s an enticing courtyard out back. The salads are particularly good, or try the mini-burgers (sliders) that always get rave reviews.QC-3, 6 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0243. Open 08:30–17:30. Sat 09:00–17:30. Closed Mon. LOVE FOOD KITCHEN CAFÉ & DELI A cute streetside eatery with a sumptuous daily-harvest table of freshly made salads and meat, fish or chicken dishes. Ask for Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream. Arrive early to get a table for lunch.QC-2, 4 Ameshoff St, Braamfontein, tel. + 27 83 602 6511, lovefoodkitchen.com. Open 07:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Corkage R20. 6BS

Rocomamas, Ferndale

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Where to eat MOEMAS An irresistable display of sweet things and patisserie plus a fresh harvest-table lunch. Moemas also serves high tea.

Service standards vary, but worth it if you have a sweet tooth.QShop 1, Parktown Quarter, cnr 3rd and 7th Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7725, www.moemas. co.za. Open Mon 07:00–18:00, Tue–Fri 07:00–22:00, Sat 08:00–22:00, Sun 08:00–16:00. L PARK CAFÉ Pretty and pink with an Astro Turf carpet, and perfectly placed on art gallery row. A spectacular coffee machine takes counter pride of place, and the food is super-tasty. For breakfast, the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, www.parkcafe.co.za. Open Mon–Fri 07:30–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. LW SERVICE STATION At lunch the table is laden with a fresh selection of salads, lasagnes or quiches at this popular corner cafe. The granola breakfast is the best in town.QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online.co.za. Open 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30. L TASHAS A chain renowned for its vast and excellent menu of fresh food, including exceptional salads all served in generous portions. The baked goods are delicious and the juices freshly squeezed.QMelrose Arch Piazza, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1781, www.tashas.co.za. Open 06:30-21:45. Sun, Mon, public holidays kitchen closes 20:45. LBS THE WHIPPET COFFEE COMPANY Cool tones and a hipster aesthetic. Try the burger sliders and the top-notch coffee. Fridays the after-work crowd swells the place for drinks and tapas.Q34 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 7310, www.thewhippet.co.za. Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–22:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. Kitchen closes at 15:00 weekdays, Sat at 14:00. Closed Sun. BW

COFFEE Not just a drink – it’s a lifestyle. From morning rush-hour queues for takeaway cups or seats at Guru, to enjoying fairtrade Ethiopian roasts at Bean There, or ordering the mothercuppa at Motherland, this city is hooked on the dark brew. At 4th Avenue Coffee Roasters even the mutts are catered for with doggie water bowls laid out. Or do the stand-up thing at Uncle Merv’s kiosk in Maboneng (cheat by ordering the Felix King smoothie – heaven in a cup for peanut butter fans).

Then there’s Cramers, a city neighbourhood hangout, and in Braamfontein the blond-wood hipster hideout, Father Coffee, and its neighbour, Doubleshot, on the next block.

Of course, free wi-fi at most stops is not to be sneezed at.

4TH AVENUE COFFEE ROASTERS & CAFÉ Shop 3, The Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109, www.4thavenuecoffee.co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Mon 07:00–17:30. No food served on Mondays.

BEAN THERE COFFEE 44 Stanley, Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere.co.za. Open 07:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00.

CRAMERS COFFEE D-5, Shop No. 9, cnr Harrison and Main Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 2699, www.cramerscoffee. com. Open 06:00–17:30, Sat 07:00–13:30. Closed Sun. W DOUBLESHOT COFFEE AND TEA C-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 100 5241, www.doubleshot. co.za. Open 07:45–17:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. W FATHER COFFEE C-3, Shop 2, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00– 16:00, Sat 08:30–17:30. Closed Sun. W

THREE MARYS N The sister act of Salvation Café, the croissants are flown in from France. Stylish atmosphere with an emphasis on fresh food, wood-fired pizzas, baked goods and gourmet sandwiches. Also a good stop for small homeware gifts.

Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 8618, www. threemarys.co.za, Tue–Sun 08:00–16:00. Closed Mon.

GURU 19 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5044.

Open 06:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:30– 17:00. W

WARM & GLAD The freelance media crowd is devoted to this everchanging space. A small but perfect menu of organic and locally sourced ingredients, loud vinyl and Rad Gallery book store keep aesthetes happy.Q357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. Open Mon–Wed 07:30–16:30, Thu–Fri 07:30-20:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. Closed Sun. Service ends 30 minutes before closing time. BW

UNCLE MERV’S G-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 73 211 5127, Open 07:00–16:00.

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MOTHERLAND Dunkeld Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2324, www. motherlandcoffee.com. Branches at The Zone @ Rosebank and in Braamfontein. Open 09:00–21:00. W

For more restaurant choices, see our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. Leave a comment and tell us what we're missing May – August 2014

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Where to eat PATISSERIES Something for any sweet tooth: from the crois-nut at Belle’s to the chocolate volcano at Chateau Gateau, Patisserie de Paris’s light-as-a-feather croissants, Chocola J’s exceptional chocolate treats and the prettiest petits fours at Illovo’s The Patisserie. Make one stop or include them all in your itinerary.

BELLE’S PATISSERIE Kosher and halaal.QShop 16, Blubird Shopping Centre, Athol Oaklands Rd and Cross St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 4474, www.bellespatisserie. co.za. Open Mon 07:30–17:00, Tue-Fri 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–17:00. ULW CHATEAU GATEAUXQShop 20a Thrupps Illovo Centre, 204 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 2211, www.chateaugateaux.co.za, Open 07:30–18:00, Sun and public holidays 07:30–17:00. TLS PATISSERIE DE PARISQ8 Mackay Avenue, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 0913, . Open Tue–Fri 08:00–17:30, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:00, closed Mon. TSBUL N CHOCOLA JQ167 Beyers Naude Dr, Northcliff, tel. +27 11 782 9050, www.chocolaj.co.za. Open 07:00–17:30, Sat 07:00–15:30, Sun 07:30–13:00. TULVBS THE PATISSERIEQPost Office Centre Illovo, Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:30. Closed Sun. LS

CONTEMPORARY THE LEOPARD Joburg cuisine’s enfant terrible Andrea Burgener has a quirky take on traditional ingredients. A restaurant for grown-ups with a small menu of innovative dishes.Q63A 4th Ave (cnr 5th St), Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open Mon–Thu 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. Corkage R50–70 (pre2006 vintage R25). Booking essential. RRR. B LACUNA N A chic hotel bistro with impeccable service. The open kitchen produces international cuisine accompanied by a top-notch wine and cocktails menu. A perfect environment for savouring a meal. Try the popular Sunday gourmet carvery at the pool.QThe Maslow Hotel, cnr Grayston and Rivonia Rds, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, . Open 06:30–11:00, 12:00–22:30. Sun 12:00– 17:00. RR–RRR. ULBW

FINE DINING DW ELEVEN-13 Much awarded-chef Marthinus Ferreira serves up elegant and beautifully presented dishes with exceptional flavour combinations in an austere setting.QDunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0663, www.dw11-13. co.za. Open 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:00. Sun 12:00-15:00.

Closed Mon. Corkage R75–R150. RRRR. ULW MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT It is worth the 45-minute drive to eat at the Queen of Fine Dining, chef Chantel Dartnell’s, restaurant. Set aside an afternoon for many courses of beautifuly plated excellence.QFrancolin Conservation Area, Elandsfontein, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 371 2903, www.restaurantmosaic. com. Open Wed–Sun 12:30–16:00, Tue–Sun 19:00–late.

Closed Mon. RRRR. L

The Patisserie, Illovo

TEA SHOPS SIMPLICITY COFFEE AND TEA Authentic old-school Chinese pearl tea.Q11 Derrick Ave (cnr Marcia St), Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 616 0228. Open weekdays.

HAPPY ME Contemporary flavours and loads of bubbles.QVillage Green Shopping Centre, 127 Greenway Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 1450, www.happyme. co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 07:00–17:00.

THE TEA ROOM Delightfully pretty setting and delicious tea accompaniments fit for a queen.QShop 14, Design Quarter, Fourways, tel. +27 11 465 8276, www. crabtree-evelyn.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–17:00.

24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ROOTS This restaurant with its superb setting continues to win accolades for its excellent food and wine pairings. They also serve a delectable brunch.QLetamo Game Estate, R540, Kromdraai, Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 11 668 7000, www.forumhomini.com/rootsrestaurant. Open 07:00– 23:30 at set times for meal sittings. Booking essential.

RRR-RRRR. ULBW

GREEK PAREA Serving the best Greek fare since 1993. The menu at this lively place includes fresh meze dishes and delicious roasted fish specialities. From 21.30 on Fri and Sat beware the Greek dancing and breaking dishes.QShop 3D, Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8777, www.parea.co.za. Open 11:00 until late.

Corkage R50. RR. BS johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat INDIAN For the best Indian food in Joburg, see Fordsburg's Delights.

ITALIAN IL GIARDINO D’EGLI ULIVI A casual but elegant courtyard bistro with generous and beautifully presented pizzas, pastas, salads and meat dishes.

Live music on Fridays and Sundays. Service slows on the busiest days.Q44 Stanley Avenue, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4978, www.ilgiardino.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 11.30–17:00. Closed Mon. Corkage R70–R150. RRR. EB LA CUCINA DI CIRO Chef Ciro Molinari’s sophisticated Mediterranean restaurant uses seasonal ingredients to create excellent flavours.

The small but versatile menu changes regularly. In summer book a table on the deck.Q43 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 5187, www.lacucinadiciro.co.za.

Open Tue–Sun 08:30–11:30, 12:00–15:00, 18:30–22:00.

Closed Mon. Corkage R55–R75. RRR. LB LA LUNA N Excellent home-made pasta and other Italian dishes. The subtle flavours and genteel ambience of this restaurant on Melville’s busy strip is a welcome surprise. The menu is the work of two chefs with five-star-hotel experience.Q9 7th Street, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7451. Open Mon 17:3022:30, Tue-Sat 11:30-22:30. Closed Sun. RR-RRR. B TRA AMICI An unfussy lunch spot with a fine table of home-cooked Italian dishes and salads. The ‘pavement lunch’ takeaway box is a favourite of Rosebank‘s office workers. Parking in Rosebank Mall.QUnit 2, The Rosebank Firestation, Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 83 274 3558. Open 08:00–15:00 (lunch buffet starts 12:00). Closed Sat, Sun. R. BS

MEDITERRANEAN PIGALLE SANDTON Lavishly decorated, there is a rarefied air despite the large platters on which generous portions of meat dishes, periperi Mozambican-style chicken and exceptional seafood are served. An extensive wine list.QShop UO9, 4th floor Michelangelo Towers, Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 8899, pigallerestaurants.co.za/sandton. Open 12:00–16:00 and 18:00–22:30. RRR–RRRR. L WYCKED FUN FOOD N This tiny technicoloured slice of Braamfontein’s hippest corner started life as an organic market stall. Now a permanent spot selling competitively priced lunches – the filling pittas stuffed with all manner of imaginative combinations are a highlight – as well as homemade deli goods.QShop 5, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 498 0972, www. wyckedd.co.za. Open Tue 09:00–16:30, Wed-Fri 09:00– 17:30, Sat 09:00–18:30. Closed Sun, Mon. R. LBS facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Ant Café, Melville

MEXICAN MAMA MEXICANA Two friends spent their spare time devising a Mexican menu for a market stall which became a full-time gig. The décor is minimalist, the flavours maximalist. Wash it down with a local Mexican beer.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 1982, . Open Tue–Sat 10:00–21:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. R. LS

PIZZA 86 PUBLIC Chequered cloths, vinyl banquettes and street views, the hip 86 Public super-specialises in pizza. The choice of wine is limited. Order crusty pizza with ample toppings. A good choice for starting a night out in Braamfontein. Restaurant entrance on Melle Street.QC-3, 87 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 157 1823, . Open 12:00–22:00. RR. ANDICCIO 24 Free home deliveries or eat in-store. The innovative menu has individually priced toppings. The thin-crust pizzas have a base price and then the sky’s the limit. Save space for the dessert pizza. See website for branches.Q3 Corlett Drv, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, www.andiccio24.co.za.

Open Sun, Mon 08:00–02:00, Tue–Thu 08:00–04:00, 24hrs on Fri and Sat. R–RR. TVBSW ANT CAFÉ The popular Ant Café has plenty of atmosphere and characterful décor. It also has a studenty feel, most evident in the cheesiness of its pizzas. A perfect choice if you like yours that way. Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00. Corkage R45. R. UNB TONI’S Pastas and flavourful thin-crust pizzas from a wood oven with some interesting toppings, including a dessert Belgian chocolate calzone that alone deserves a visit. Friendly service, too.QCnr Lancaster and Clarence Aves, Craighall Park, +27 11 447 1318, www.tonipizza.co.za. Open 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. TBW May – August 2014

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Where to eat PARREIRINHA The hundreds of men’s ties hanging from the ceiling add character to this former police station. The dishes are anything but ordinary. Fans of garlic and chilli (Mozambicaninfluenced flavour) will be delighted. Try the bacalhau (cod), prawn cakes, steaks or delicious prawns.Q9 6th St (Augusta Rd), La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. Corkage R50. Reservations required. RRR. TUS La Marina, Modderfontein

PORTUGUESE 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides in an unremarkable strip mall. Portuguese-themed knick-knacks abound.

The kitchen closes super-early, but it’s well worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawn and calamari dishes.QFerndale Village, cnr Main Rd and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open 12:00–15:00 and 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30). Closed Mon. RR. UL

HALAAL AND KOSHER For halaal food, Fordsburg offers the widest range. For fast food, head to Emmarentia. Family fare can be found at Texakhana Spur in The Zone @ Rosebank. For kosher restaurants and deli food, try Long Street in Glenhazel.

Frangelica’s (5 Long Ave) has delicious baked goods.

For café food, try Food Lovers Market at Norwood Mall (cnr Hamlin and 6th Sts), or get kosher flamegrilled chicken takeout at Nando’s (27 Aintree Rd, Savoy).

DELIS AND SPECIALITY SUPERMARKETS BREAD BASKET Greek delicacies and excellent sandwiches.QShop BC28, Banking Court Level, Sandton City, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 9053, www.breadbasket.co.za. Open 08:30–19:00, Fri until 20:00, Sat 18:00, Sun 09:30–15:30. ULS FOURNOS Croissants, breads, casual meal must-haves.

A delicious sit-down menu available.QDunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, www.fournos.co.za.

Open 06:00–18:00, Sat 07:00–16:00, Sun 07:00–14:00.

TULBS

TROYEVILLE HOTEL The food at this authentically dated hotel in edgy Troyeville is always tasty and the meal worth lingering over. Don’t go for the décor. The place has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians, and also hosts excellent regular book evenings. The pub has its fair share of barflies.

QH-3, cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Dawe St, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 77 09, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:30–22:00. RR. LEBU

STEAKHOUSES BULLRUN N This elegant old building used to be a tea room back when Sandton was just rolling farmland. It’s still an oasis in the heart of Joburg's business district. The romantic tree-covered terrace is perfect for enjoying more wine from the great selection, after polishing off a luscious steak.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, Tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun. co.za. Open12:00-22:30, Sat 17:00-22:30. RRR. Corkage R50. LBSW SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL N A barbecue menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a pulled-pork sandwich that the critics are applauding. If meat’s not what you eat it’s still worth heading there for the peanut butter ice cream.Q73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395, Open Mon-Wed 11:30-21:30, Thu-Sat 11:30-22:30.

Closed Sun. RRR. LEBW TURN ’N TENDER Consistently tasty, basted steaks with the best selection of sides. Try the pap (maize meal) with tomato and onion gravy, a local staple. Swift and friendly service and gigantic spare-rib platters. See website for branches.QParktown Quarter, 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, www.turnntender.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. RRR. Corkage R40. Kitchen may close early on Sunday. LB

LA MARINA FOODS For specialised epicurean delights.Q7 Platinum Dr, Longmeadow North Business Park, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 3277, www.lamarinafoods.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 08:00–12:00.

Closed Sun. L 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat GRILLHOUSE The look is classic New York steakhouse, the service expert and the steaks outstanding. Try the spice-crusted fillet.

The buzz is constant, and there’s an incredible selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations are essential and ask about the hotel shuttle service. Head next door to Katzy's for live music (see Nightlife).QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN GREENSIDE CAFÉ A bright interior, friendly staff, patio – plus printed injunctions assuring you that you are doing your bit to save the planet just by eating here – what’s not to like? Try the fresh juices, raw food, wheat-free pizzas or Shooting Star – a dainty filo-pastry parcel filled with warm chocolate truffle.

Q34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, www.thegreensidecafe.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. R–RR. BU FREE FOOD N There’s just one communal table here and a regularly changing meat, fish and dairy-free menu, plus freshlymade dishes for home. Feast on huge salads, bulked up with super foods.QShop 5B, cnr Corlett Drv and Delta St, Birnam/Melrose, tel. +27 82 406 4699, www.freefood. co.za. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 08:30–17:00. Closed Sun. R. LS FRUITS AND ROOTS A daily vegetarian buffet gently puts at ease those with food intolerances. The gluten-free, preservative-free, fresh and healthy food includes an indulgent selection of sweet treats. The adjoining health store stocks a wide range of supplements, nutraceuticals, groceries and household products.QHobart Corner Shopping Centre, cnr Hobart and Grosvenor Rds, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 2928, www.fruitsandroots.co.za. Open 08:30–16:30, Sat 08:30–14:30, Closed Sun. R. S

DELICIOUS ON A BUDGET For street food, head to Ma Bertha’s for generous portions of spicy South African-style stew, Mam Lindy’s for chicken with pap and rice, Vuyo’s for meat with a salad or ‘starch’, Burhan’s Butchery for excellent Turkish kebabs, James XVI Ethiopian for R35 plates of injera with delicious accompaniments, and Mumbai Masala for excellent street food served, ironically, in a mall.

VUYO’SQC-2, Braamfontein Centre, cnr Stiemens St and Bertha St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1920, www. vuyos.co.za. Open 08:00–19:00, Thu-Sat 08:00– 21:00, Sun 08:00–17:00 BURHAN’S BUTCHERYQ79 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 11239. Open 09:00–18:30, Sun 09:00–16:00 MA BERTHA’S KITCHENQD-5, 26 Loveday St, tel. +27 11 838 3020, maberthaskitchen.com. Open 06:30– 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. JAMES XVI ETHIOPIANQOpen for lunch and dinner daily.QG-4, Maverick Corner, cnr Commissioner and Maritzburg Sts, Maboneng. N MUMBAI MASALAQKillarney Mall, 60 Riviera Rd, Killarney, tel. +27 11 486 1492, open 11:00–21:00. N MAM LINDY'S FAST FOODQMaude St, Sandton, opposite the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Weekdays. N

Mam Lindy's, Sandton

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Anyone for drinks?

Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows (www.ngf.co.za, see Shopping), one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She had fallen in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and has since expanded her interest to the study and marketing, and, of course, enjoyment, of wine.

CARRIE RECOMMENDS...

KONG Hugely popular nightclub that does not shy away from proclaiming its goal to cater for the ‘elite and sexy’. Friday is urban night with R&B and hip hop, while Saturdays are for fans of dance and electro.QShop 19, 160 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0993, www.kongsa.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 21:00–05:00.

What makes Norman Goodfellows Fine Wine & Spirits Merchants stand out?

We are a one-of-a-kind merchant in South Africa – there simply is no one else who offers the levels of service, depth of in-store knowledge, nor the range of products that Norman Goodfellows does.

HUSH BAR LOUNGE Offering the ultimate African clubbing experience, this bar exudes the Champagne lifestyle and has been graced by visiting celebrities Dbanj, R Kelly and Chris Brown.Q160 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0203, www.hushclub. co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

What makes South African wines distinctive?

I have watched the wine industry grow immensely since I returned from England in 1991. Quality drives a lot of the producers, who in the past were simply chasing a small return on an overregulated local and international market.

Nowadays, wine producers are proud of their heritage but have tweaked the product to move away from the overly oaked, mass-produced, pedestrian product of the 70s and 80s. Our wines now showcase a more elegant era of winemaking in South Africa.

LIQUID CHEFS @ THE ZONE, ROSEBANK The inventors of mixology in Joburg create inspired cocktails. This Liquid Chefs concept store is easy to find – just follow the sounds of thrilled patrons.QShop G01, The Zone @ Rosebank, 117 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 447 6412, www.liquidchefs.co.za. Mon 14:00–22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00–23:00, Thu–Sun 11:00–02:00.

Your best advice on buying South African wines?

Ask what to buy, carefully describing your preferences.

There are still a lot of wines that may not appeal to you.

Look for those wines that are more area- and vintagespecific, which your merchant should be able to guide you through.

THE VEUVE CLICQUOT CHAMPAGNE BAR A perfect place for sundowners or drinks before dinner at the hotel’s Level Four restaurant. It also serves a carefully selected range of wines and cocktails.Q54 on Bath Hotel, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8445, www.54onbath.com. Open 12:00–22:00.

What should you not leave Joburg without tasting?

South Africa makes some of the best port wines and noble late harvests in the world. We also have an indigenous grape, pinotage, that has long suffered ridicule but has emerged as a true swan in the hands of some of our producers – taste any of the pinotages from Rijks Cellar and you cannot really go wrong!

What is the best-kept secret about our wines?

Probably the price. Sip for sip, you can still get the best value for money out of a bottle of well-made South African wine. There are a hundred labels I can think of that sell at between R30 and R40 and that are infinitely drinkable – and the low price makes them even more enjoyable!

Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bar

LOOK OUT FOR...

Carrie Adams’s top South African wines to look out for: RED Leopards Leap Cabernet Merlot Blend, Rupert & Rothschild Classique Red Blend, Saronsberg Shiraz, Eikendal Classique Red Blend, Rijks Pinotage, Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir WHITE Leopards Leap Sauvignon Blanc, Lomond Pincusion Sauvignon Blanc, DeWetshof Limestone Hills Chardonnay, DeMorgenzon Chenin Blanc, Fairview Nuroc White Blend, Meerlust Chardonnay

28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Nightlife CIRCLE BAR Circular booths known as ‘pods’ seat between four and 10 and have adjustable mood and colour lighting, making Circle a great place for parties. If you would rather perch at the bar, there’s more than enough space to meet the in-house mixologist and his interesting creations.QCnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank (Crowne Plaza Johannesburg), tel. +27 11 448 3600, www.therosebank. co.za. Open 15:00–01:00. LW

Elevate, City Centre

Joburg has it all: from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that they are spread across the city. Wherever you go, make sure to stay sober if you are driving, or take a taxi. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18. Credit cards are accepted everywhere unless otherwise stated.

BARS AND PUBS ANTI EST N Ignore the pretentious instructions to ’unlearn everything you think you know’ – for all its intellectualising this is a great-looking joint for fans of cocktails, craft beer, cool design and good music. An upmarket, but not less diverse, alternative to the student bars.QCnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 74 187 2421, @AntiEst_SA. Open Wed–Fri 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00. Closed Sun–Tue. CAFÉ MEXICHO N This fun restaurant doubles as a lively bar awash with people getting jolly on the abundant tequila and frozen cocktails. It is deceptively roomy and plastered in quirky Mexican bric-a-brac, with long tables.Q78 4th Ave, (cnr 7th St), Melville, tel. +27 79 165 9617. Open Mon 16:00– 20:00, Tue–Thu 12:00–24:00, Fri–Sat 12:00–01:30, Sun 12:00–24:00. BS CHALKBOARD CAFÉ Who needs décor when the walls are lined top to bottom with blackboards and even the tables can be scribbled on?

A great spot for drinks and pizzas before or after a film or gig at the independent cinema, Bioscope, next door.QG4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng. City Centre, tel. +27 039 7306, www.chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00. B CHURCHILLS N A gastropub-style menu that also lists expertly made cocktails (try the signature Collins) and an impressive wine selection. Moody lighting from old-fashioned desk lamps and candles, jazzy house music, a library-style cigar room and a luxurious modern British décor make this a sophisticated venue.Q2nd Floor, Melrose Piazza, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1040, www.churchillsbar.co.za. Open 14:30 until late. Closed Mon. LW 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CRAFT N More a restaurant than a bar, the incredible craft-beer selection and pavement filled with tables help the übertrendy Craft stand out as somewhere to linger. The food gets mixed reviews – stick to items baked in the massive wood-fired oven for a satisfying experience. Slow service on busy days.Q33 4th Ave (cnr 12th St), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 788 7111, . Open 07:00–22:00. LB FOUNDRY Part bistro, part craft bar, with both style and substance – expect tasty food with subtle fusion twists. Perennial favourites include the wild mushroom ravioli and sourdough pizzas. Great cocktails and craft beers.Q21 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5828, www. foundrycafe.co.za. Open 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–17:00.

LBW GILES PUB AND RESTAURANT N Popular with rugby fans the obliging staff are also more than happy to use the many TV screens to accommodate football followers. The restaurant can lack atmosphere when not busy, but the long bar hums with tipsy yuppies, wizened sports fans and hungry locals addicted to the famous fish and chips.Q9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 4056. Open 12:30–23:00. LBW GIN RESTAURANT & BAR Unashamedly grungy, this cavernous place draws students like moths to a flame with cheap drinks and cheesy pop-rock music. Arrive early to find a table on the balcony overlooking the bar and busy street below. A hedonistic youngsters’ hangout where anything goes.Q12 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 79 524 8303, www.gingin. co.za. Open 15:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B

Craft, Parkhurst

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Nightlife GUILDHALL PUB Dating back to 1888, this is said to be the oldest pub in the city. It has survived the ravages of the 1990s and is going strong, largely thanks to the dedicated owner and the loyal customers. Fascinating original interiors in the shady downstairs bar and a breezy wrought-iron balcony up top.

QD-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Harrison St (Library Square Gardens), City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 1770.

Open daily from 11:00 until last guest. B JO’ANNA MELT BAR N A finely curated vintage aesthetic and craft beer menu.

You’ll find Melville’s more mature residents discreetly having a good time here. A massive round bar dominates the space making ordering a drink or flirting with the bar staff considerably easier.Q7 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 72 733 5966, . Open 12:00–late. Closed Mon. JOLLY ROGER There are actually two Jollys (with separate management) on either side of the street: Jolly Cool has streetside seating, pool tables and a giant sports screen, whilst the Jolly Roger resembles an old-fashioned balconied pub. Both get smokey and rowdy when the students are out.Q10 4th Ave (cnr 6th St), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 442 3954, .

Open 12:00–02:00, Mon 16:00–02:00. BW KITCHENER’S CARVERY The cool kids and creative types hang out here in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn the welcoming atmosphere into something more pretentious. By day it’s a quiet pub; by night DJs spin soul, funk and electro. Cover charges may apply after 21:00 Fri and Sat.QC-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, .

Open Mon–Wed 10:00–21:00, Thu 10:00–02:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–04:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. EB LIVING ROOM More of a café–bar than a late night venue, the Living Room is at its most happening on Friday evenings and Sunday afternoons when the rooftop fills up for sundowners against a spectacular urban backdrop. A little garden in the sky, filled with exotic plants and trees snaking over the eco-friendly furniture and an organic menu to match.

QG-4, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 61 402 2843, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Mon–Wed by appointment only. LB SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE N An unusual location open only on Wednesdays. This stunning warehouse space is stuffed with the owner’s covetable collection of antiques and endowed with a unique Sandton view. Then there’s the retro party music and fun yet sensibly restrained guests – it’s a given that you’ll forget tomorrow is Thursday.Q6 Desmond St (below Katy’s Palace Bar), Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235. Open Wed 16:00–22:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Churchills, Melrose Arch

SIX COCKTAIL BAR N Literally plush – everything from the seats to the walls is covered in velvet and massive chandeliers hang from the ceiling. Not the place to knock back dubious shooters until the staff have to scrape you off the floor; instead, the welcoming and smartly dressed crowd can be found supping on cocktails and enjoying the R&B and hip hop.Q4 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 8306, . Open 12:00–02:00.

STANLEY BEER YARD Found inside the pretty courtyards of 44 Stanley is one of the city’s most attractive beer gardens, specialising in craft beer and German-inspired food. Inside is a gorgeous hunting-lodge style interior with leather armchairs, antique curios and a huge log fire and outside long tables sit beneath the olive trees. Occasional live folk music.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791, . Open Tue–Thu 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. EBW THE BEACH N A manmade beach on an inner-city rooftop. Sticking with the beach theme, cocktails are de rigeur – the Moscow Mule is the house specialty. The Beach opens at lunchtime for post Neighbourgoods Market lounging, and as the sun sets the DJs seriously crank up the volume to get people in party mood.Q68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 492 1440, . Open Sat 12:00–19:00.

THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British fashion for ‘gastropubs’, the Griffin deals in craft beers, posh pub food and fancy-looking wallpaper. Friendly and attentive staff, and music you can actually talk over provide even more reason to stay late for the crowds of boisterous yet mature young professionals who flock here. In true British style they do an excellent Sunday lunch roast.Q1 Corlett Drv (Illovo Junction – cnr Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin. co.za. Open Tue–Sun 12:00–01:00. Closed Mon. BW Johannesburg In Your Pocket encourages responsible drinking. See Getting Around for taxi numbers May – August 2014

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Nightlife THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the area surrounding this characterful Victorian pub may be edgy (not in a good way), it’s well worth the effort. Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium is famous for mouth-watering Portuguese food and live jazz and blues. The shabby interior only adds to the unique charm.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium. co.za. Open 10:00–23:30, Sat 11:00 until last guest.

Closed Sun. Admission R50–R80 on some performance nights. E

CRAFT-BEER BARS Alongside the massive selection offered at the trendy weekend markets, Joburg also has a host of bars and cafes selling local craft beers. Here are just a few great venues to get you started.

ANTI EST Beautifully designed bar in the centre of all the Braamfontein action with an expertly curated craft beer menu.

CHALKBOARD CAFÉ Easygoing café-bar hangout in the heart of Maboneng. Notable for serving lesser known labels that you won't find anywhere else.

CRAFT Craft by name, craft by nature – trendy restaurant with a massive beer selection and great Parkhurst pavement location.

THE FOUNDRY Stylish bar-restaurant with an inspired food menu to match the great craft beer list.

THE GRIFFIN The city's first British-style gastropub, serves over 30 craft beers, seven of which are on tap.

JO'ANNA MELT BAR One of the few bars in studenty Melville with craft beer on the menu. The cheesy toast melts are the perfect accompaniment.

STANLEY BEER YARD Sunny beer yard with a log fire for winter inspired by the Cape Town craft beer yard scene. Menu includes non-alcoholic and fruit craft beers.

WOLVES/GOOD LUCK CLUB The casual and intimate Asian café, Good Luck Club, and its sister venue, Wolves, both sell a growing range of popular craft brands.Q4 Corlett Drive, Illovo, +27 11 447 2360, www.wolves. co.za. Open 07:30–19:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 until last guest, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00.

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

WINESENSE N Part wine bar, part wine merchant. Request a taster card on arrival and use it to help yourself to samples of dozens of great wines at a wide-range of prices while you nibble on your tapas. Alternatively whole bottles can just as easily be ordered to sit in or take away.Q1 Melrose Sq, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1487. Open 09:00–22:00. Sun 10:00–20:00. ULB ZEBRA INN Perfect if you need a change from Maboneng’s trendy, artsy scene over on Main Street. After being buzzed in you’ll find yourself in a room completely covered in the taxidermied heads of almost 100 African animals. It’s cheap and grungy with a motley crew of locals propping up the bar, playing pool and sinking money into the jukebox.QG-4, 252 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Kruger St), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 494 7763. Open daily from 11:00.

ZOO LAKE BOWLING CLUB N With its low prices, time-warped interiors, expansive terrace and historically multi-racial make-up (the adjacent park remained open to all races throughout apartheid), the Bowls Club has a special place in the heart of many.

When big football matches are on the clubhouse packs with fans in their team colours, while on other evenings live jazz bands perform.QPrincess of Wales Terrace, Zoo Lake, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. Open daily 11:00–23:00. LEB

CASINOS EMPEROR’S PALACE An opulent Vegas-inspired venue with hundreds of slots, a high rollers area and hold ‘em poker room. There’s also the Odeon Show Bar for cabaret and live music, the Theatre of Marcellus and a day spa.Q64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za.

Open 24hrs.

GOLD REEF CITY A more intimate gambling experience with close to 100 slot machines and 15 gaming tables, plus private lounge areas. This City of Gold-inspired casino has two theatres, restaurants and a popular theme park across the road. The Apartheid Museum is also located here.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open 24hrs.

MONTECASINO An entertainment mecca, this massive faux-Tuscan complex has more than 40 cafes and restaurants, 1700 slot machines and a whopping 70 tables, as well as a private lounge and a smoking casino. The Teatro stages bigbudget productions, there’s a comedy club plus cinema, impressive bird gardens, bowling and arcade games. Gautrain buses leave from Sandton station.QCnr of William Nicol Drv and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7000, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 24hrs. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife LIVE MUSIC AND JAZZ AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION N Tucked away in a scruffy string of shops in Westdene, this is not immediately the place you’d think to come to for a night of jazz and poetry. However, this little Bohemian haven is working hard to bring great art and fantastic local music back to this once culturally rich area and day and night there’s a special intimacy and community spirit which cannot be matched.Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za.

Open 10:00–24:00. W KATZY’S This highly rated bar is a slinky, stylish and all-round sophisticated joint recalling the atmosphere of an old Chicago jazz club. Order a drink from their menu of more than 100 fine malt whiskies, cognacs and bourbons, or get a vintage cigar, sink into a big leather couch and enjoy the sounds of some great local jazz.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.katzys.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00. Closed Sun. Dress code smart casual. No cover charge Mon–Wed. From Thu 19:00, R150; Fri, Sat R100. BL THE ORBIT N The sound of jazz is finally back in City Centre. A buzzing jazz club with a top sound system and acoustics, dedicated to promoting the best in jazz, funk, blues and other genres. The Orbit simply cannot be faulted. An excellent bistro greets you downstairs, while upstairs the highly atmospheric concert space awaits. Reservations for tables upstairs is highly recommended.Q81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645/+27 78 398 6250, www. theorbit.co.za. Open 11:30–02:00. Closed Mon. Tickets for concerts from R60.

CLUBS ELEVATE N Towering 16 floors above the heart of City Centre, Elevate has a very special view and sexy interiors to match.

Perched atop the Reef Hotel in the Main Street Mining District, it is usually open only for special themed weekend club nights. It is advisable to check beforehand what parties are planned.QD-5, 16th floor, Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street, City Centre, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www. reefhotels.co.za.

SANKAYI Glamorous lounge and nightclub mixing a range of hot African house, R&B and Latino sounds. Very popular with the city’s well-off African expat community, especially West Africans. A smart dress code applies.QUpper Level, 90 Degrees on Rivonia Shopping Centre, cnr Kelvin Drv and Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 83 859 5826, www. sankayi.com. Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu 20:00– 04:00, Fri–Sat 21:00–04:00, Sun 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TABOO This swanky Sandton nightclub fills with the pumping sounds of top local and international DJs. Chic deck and plush lounge areas for when you want to take a breather.

Smart dress code.Q24 Central, Cnr Fredman Drv and Gwen Ln, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo. co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

RANDLORDS One of the city’s best rooftop venues, the views of the downtown cityscape from the 22nd floor are awe-inspiring. Usually rented out for private events, it also hosts occasional public events such as club and live music nights.QB-2, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, www.randlords.co.za.

FOOTBALL BARS Although South Africa failed to qualify, there is still huge interest in this year’s Fifa World Cup and almost every bar in the city has at least one TV showing football. The West African expat community can usually be found cheering their teams at one of the many shebeens on Yeoville’s Rockey Street (we advise you visit here with a local) or at the swanky Sankayi club in Rivonia. In addition, the Dutch (www.hollandhouse.co.za) and German communities (www.germancountryclub.co.za) have organised their own sponsored World Cup 2014 bars.

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Fordsburg delights

While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history and bearing the scars of its past with pride, Fordsburg today is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. It was once part of the farm on which gold was first discovered, and for years attempts were made to regulate the area into a whites-only district. A strong spirit of activism prevented this. Key historical moments include the shelling of Fordsburg during the 1922 miners‘ strike, when white miners rose in armed opposition to the government’s employment of cheap black labour; the forced removals of communities to Indian-only Lenasia; and the destruction of a vibrant multicultural community in the adjoining Pageview, then known as Fietas. An exceptional but poorly maintained mural, which runs along a subway linking Fordsburg and Vrededorp,* recalls the history of this community. Because of the predominantly Muslim population most restaurants do not serve alcohol and shops are closed on Friday during prayer times. * See map, page 37.

BEST OF INDIAN JOBURG Investment banker Anu Sing moved to Joburg almost 20 years ago. A third-generation South African Indian, she has a passion for the cuisine of her culture. She selected 10 outstanding places where Indian Joburg is best experienced.

BUKHARA With the welcoming buzz of an Indian family home (busiest at lunch during weekdays), you will be transported to northern India for delicious curries and tandoor dishes at this upmarket spot. The malai salmon is a must.QNelson Mandela Square, cnr Maude and West Sts, Sandton, tel. +2711 883 5555. Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00–23:00.

CURRY ‘N ALL Known for its bunny chow (a hollowed-out portion of bread filled with curry, said to have originated in Durban in the 1940s), this takeaway spot specialises in curries from that city. Arrive before midday to beat the queues.

QCaltex Garage, cnr Grayston and Katherine Sts, Sandown, tel. +27 11 444 7187, Open 11:00–21:30.

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SIMPLY DIVINE Expect a warm welcome from a pleasant mother-and-son team at this vegetarian-only restaurant.

Curries vary daily but you will always find the truly sublime signature dish: butter paneer. Also try the Punjabi samoosas and paneer pies.QBlairgowrie Plaza, 70 Conrad Drive, Randburg, tel. +27 76 394 5224. Open Mon–Fri 10:30– 19:00, Sat 10:30–16:00. Closed Sun. BAPS SHAYONAS A pure Sattvic vegetarian restaurant, deli and spice shop, also the catering arm of the Swaminarayan Temple and the charities it aids. Enjoy delicious thalis, Indian street food (chaat) and sweetmeats. The masala dosa is the best in town. Weekends are busiest but still the best time to go.Q74 Church St, Mayfair tel. +27 11 837 2407, Open Tues–Thu 09:30–20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30–21:00, Sun 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon. HANOVER BAKERY A market atmosphere at any time of day. Patrons select from a delectable array of freshly baked naan breads, Indian savouries, pastries and biscuits. The caramel loaf is their signature bread.Q10 Hanover St, Mayfair tel. +27 11 839 3355. Open 07:00–17:00.

SOUTH AFRICAN SCHOOL OF YOGA Situated in the tranquil upmarket suburb of Hyde Park, this Satyananda (the Bihar yoga system) yoga school offers the opportunity to attend yoga and spiritual classes and to become involved in its charities.Q42 Morsim Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 327 0073, www.yogasa.co.za.

WORKERS TO CITIZENS ‘Indian people first came to South Africa as indentured labour in 1860 to work on Natal’s sugar plantations, and later as “free” or “passenger“ Indians seeking new opportunities abroad. Many became traders. After serving their indentures they were allowed to return to India but the majority remained, while the “allowed” immigration of “free” Indians stopped in 1914.

South African Indian people speak several languages, including Hindi, Tamil, Telugu, Urdu, Punjabi and Gujarati. However, these days English passes as the primary johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Fordsburg delights

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE Visit the Joburg home of one of the most revered Indians and citizens of the world, Mahatma Gandhi. See the museum and enjoy the peacefulness of the surroundings with a cup of chai under the old Pride of India in the courtyard, or with some yoga. (See Where to Stay.)Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www. satyagrahahouse.com.

SHALIMAR DELIGHTS Feast your eyes and taste buds on exquisitely prepared and delicious sweetmeats made with traditional butter ghee, milk and lots of patience.Q228 Albertina Sisula Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 832 1675. Open 09:00–21:00.  MELROSE SHREE SIVA SUBRAMANIAR TEMPLE One of the oldest temples in Joburg, founded by Tamil workers at the Melrose Laundry around 1870. Following renovations in 1996 and 2011, the temple that began as a shack is now an impressive architectural specimen attracting thousands of devotees of Lord Muruga and his consorts. A strict dress code applies.Q2nd Street, Melrose, tel. 27 11 728 6590, www.melrosetemple.org.za.

THE ORIENTAL PLAZA A monument to resistance against forced removals from the area during the apartheid years, and featured in the movie Material, the Plaza is an enticing labyrinth of shops for bargain hunters.Q38 Bree St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, www.orientalplaza.co.za.

Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30-15:00. Closed Sun.

language for a vast majority. All the major Hindu and Muslim prayers and festivities are celebrated at various locations around the city. For most of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries South Africa was known to have the largest population of Indians outside of India. The film Gandhi gives some insights into the history of Indians in South Africa. While the areas of Fordsburg, Mayfair and, south of the city, Lenasia, have a concentration of Indian people, these days Joburg’s Indian population is spread throughout the city’s suburbs.’ – Anu Sing facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Fordsburg delights

Fordsburg delights

Heather Mason

ORIENTAL PLAZA What began as a tragic incident in the mid-1970s, with the forced removal of Indian traders from 14th Street in Pageview (then nicknamed Joburg’s ‘Petticoat Lane’), has become a thriving shopping centre with 360 stores that is the heart of Fordsburg today. Fabrics, haberdashery, bridal outfits and accessories and thousands of pairs of shoes are just some of the items that draw droves of people to the Oriental Plaza each month from all over South Africa and neighbouring countries. Silk flowers, jewellery, brassware, children’s toys and an extraordinary range of sari fabrics are also on offer, along with fabrics that match any specification. Shops offer tailoring services on-site, and will make up curtains or other household items. The Golden Peacock is a plaza staple and your samoosa stop. 

MOHANDAS ‘MAHATMA’ GANDHI On August 16, 1908, Mohandas Gandhi led 3 000 supporters – among them Muslims, Hindus and Christians – to Hamidia Mosque, in Fordsburg, where they burned their ‘pass’ documents. These were the identity documents that all people classified ‘non-white’ by the government of the day were forced to carry in order to travel across the city, or face being imprisoned. The bonfire was lit in a cauldron and this event was the first recorded burning of pass documents in South Africa, an action that would later be emulated by the anti-apartheid resistance movement. It was also the beginning of Satyagraha, the passive resistance campaign Gandhi formulated. In 2007 artist Usha Seejarim (ushaseejarim. com), commissioned by the Sunday Times Heritage Project, marked the spot with a sculpture of a potjie (a three-legged cast-iron pot) beneath which is placed a wheel, that when spun produces an image of a pass document burning.QJennings St, next to Hamidia Mosque. 

ARTIST STUDIOS Tucked into the mix of Fordsburg are two studios worth visiting if you are in the market for an original work.

HERMANN NIEBUHR Known for his exceptional landscape works, artist Hermann Niebuhr's studio is an experience to visit. (See his take on Fordsburg on the next page.)QThe Lilian Road Studios, 38 Lilian Rd, cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 72 224 6469, www.niebuhr.co.za. Call to make an appointment. 

PUBLIC ART THE SUBWAY ‘The Subway: Fordsburg & Fietas, Sisters in History’ is a monumental work along Subway Road. Bronwyn Lace, Reg Pakari and Rookeya Gardee spent more than a year researching this area with people from the dispersed communities of Fietas and Fordsburg. Almost 32 community events were held to gather the information and design elements to make up this mural commemorating community life before the forced removals legislated by the apartheid government’s Group Areas Act in the 1970s. 

The Oriental Plaza

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The Subway: Fordsburg & Fietas, Sisters in History Sean Tangney, 26'10 Architects; Nicolas Huisman, 26'10 Architects

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Fordsburg delights THE BAG FACTORY One of the first collective artists’ studios in the city, a visit will take you into their artistic process. Resident artists include internationally acclaimed Alexandra-born artist and cultural activist David Koloane and renowned painter and installation artist Kagiso Pat Mautloa, whose works draw inspiration from the city streets beyond the studio. The studio also holds exhibitions and workshops for established artists.Q10 Mahlatini St, Fordsburg, +27 11 834 9181, www.bagfactoryart.org.za. Call for an appointment.

WALKING ROUTE Start with morning Aarti (prayer) at the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir (cnr Gothard and Bellona Rds, Mayfair West, tel. +27 11 837 9530). Have a masala dosa and a cup of chai, then make your way down, amid the noise and sounds of the street traders, to the Fordsburg Square Flea Market  on Mint Road, Fordsburg. After stocking up on cheap and cheerful trinkets and dinner supplies, snack at any one of the traditional fast-food stalls. On Central Road head south to Cassims (53 Central Rd, +27 11 836 6037) for an excellent and well-priced selection of top sportswear brands, or wander north towards Swadesh, the prayer shop, for a godly feast. Look out for the vendor with his trolley hacking up coconuts and enjoy a fresh juice. Along this road you’ll find a paan stand, many enticing sweetmeat stores, the Divine Bakery housed in a former church, barber shops and tailors. For shopping, wander up to the Oriental Plaza. To get a real taste of Indian Johannesburg, visit Akhalwaya’s Spice Importers (25 Central Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 3490) if you need spices for an authentic curry, and Mukis Fruit and Veg Shop (83 3rd Ave, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 837 1726) for fruit and vegetables.

PHOTOS © Darren M Smith (@DazMSmith), Heather Mason (@2Summers), Oriental Plaza

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MY FORDSBURG Artist Hermann Niebuhr is known for his exceptional landscape works which have been exhibited widely in South Africa, the US, the UK, Germany and Ireland. His work is held in private and corporate collections, and he is represented by the Everard Read Gallery. Niebuhr currently divides his time between his studios in Fordsburg and the Klein Karoo.

‘I’ve been in my studio in Fordsburg for 10 years now.

In that time I’ve watched the area change massively but stay fundamentally the same. I once had a foreign journalist stand on the balcony and survey the streets: “Is this area on the way up or down?” he asked. That was some time ago, and it’s definitely on the up. Fordsburg is a mixed-use wholesaler hub with an increasing residential component. It’s a place of traders and trading, locals and immigrants jostling for deals. Car parts, carpets, curtains, material, Islamic garb, Hindu prayer kit, stationary… You name it, you’ll find it here. And people need to eat. The pick of the fare at the moment is House of Schwarma (45 Central Rd, cnr Albertina Sisulu, +27 11 029 4811, open 09:00–21:00). This group of Jordanians, Syrians and Morroccans do a mean shawarma and freshly squeezed fruit juices. I also love the Indian Coffee House (48 Central Rd, +27 11 492 2089, open 11:00–22:00), Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd, +27 11 492 1456, open 10:00–22:00), Al Makka (50 Central Rd, +27 11 838 2545, open 10:00–22:00) and Istanbul (52 Central Rd, +27 11 054 5749, open 11:00–22:00) always with stubbled patrons smoking shisha (water pipes) outside. All these fine eateries are along Central Avenue. The old school of Bismillah’s is where you want to get your Friday biryani (78 Mint Rd, +27 11 838 6429, open 09:00–21:00). All this at Fordsburg prices (read: 1987 economy). There is a carnival atmosphere at weekends, notably the Saturday night market. It’s a feast for knock-offs and the latest Bollywood shows. I overheard a nice Muslim boy talking to friend on the phone once: ”Come to Fordsburg, man. Plenty of Burkha here.“ I’ve had to find my place in a complex urban ecosystem ranging from wealthy and poor shopowners to hawkers, street thieves and opportunists. Their stories enter the paintings through many doorways. My studio has a commanding view of the city from a wraparound balcony on the first floor above Mohammedys restaurant. My paintings not only carry the rich colours of the area but the scent of the curry downstairs, too!

Come and visit me. We’ll sit on the balcony and I’ll help you get your eye in on all the action in the street.’

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What to see The Old Fort Built in 1893 by President Paul Kruger as a fortress to protect Joburg from the threat of British invasion and also to keep watch over the miners flocking to the growing settlement. After the Anglo-Boer war the fort became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here when he was arrested in 1962. His cell is now part of a permanent exhibition. Walk around the fort ramparts for a fantastic view of the skyscrapers of the City Centre.

Night at the Constitutional Court

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MUSEUMS From fascinating pre-history to politics, to the search for gold and the taste for beer, the city’s excellent museums are where you can explore the powerful places that have shaped Joburg.

APARTHEID MUSEUM This extraordinary museum brings to life the horrors of apartheid. The fascinating story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements. It is not to be missed.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. + 27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org. Tue–Sun 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: R65 for adults, R50 pensioners and students, schoolgoing children R20. Not suitable for children under 10.

UBK CONSTITUTION HILL The buildings here reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th-century South Africa while also showcasing the country’s bright future in the modern Constitutional Court. The large complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. In addition to the extensive permanent exhibits, the complex also hosts regular cultural events and has an impressive art collection.

MANDELA'S JOBURG 1. Apartheid Museum 2. Constitution Hill 3. Liliesleaf Farm 4. Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory 5. Chancellor House 6. Peacemakers Museum 7. Mandela House Museum (see Soweto) 8. Shadow Boxing (see Public Art) 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Women’s Gaol The grand brick buildings built in 1909 held black and white female prisoners (and often their babies too) in separate sections. During apartheid many major political activists such as Albertina Sisulu, Ruth First and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela were imprisoned here in humiliating conditions. The museum includes many moving testimonies from former prisoners.

Number 4 Not for the faint-hearted, wandering the bleak yards and dank cells here is at times a harrowing experience. From 1904 until 1983 these notorious prison blocks housed ‘native men’ whose crimes ranged from political activism and communist party membership to murder, robbery, petty crime and, most commonly, the infringement of the racist passbook laws. Before leaving, pause at the humbling exhibit on Mahatma Gandhi.

Constitutional Court Opened in 2003 it was built using bricks from the old awaiting-trial prison block. The bright, inviting and modern building is filled with South African artworks, which alone are worth a visit. Visitors are allowed to attend court hearings and visit the court chamber.QThe Constitutional Hill Complex D-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www.constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 10:00-14:00.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY The fascinating displays illustrate technological developments in warfare. In two Bellman Hangars these cover key events including the Anglo-Zulu war, the Anglo-Boer war, South Africa’s role in the first and second world wars, and resistance movements against apartheid. Climb into the military vehicles for an even more interactive experience.

Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www.ditsong.org.za. Mon–Sun 09:00–16:30. Admission: Adults R25, senior citizens and children R15. UL LILIESLEAF FARM In the early 1960s this idyllic farm in Rivonia (Sandton) was the secret hideout and meeting place of prominent antiapartheid leaders. The plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated here. Interactive exhibits help you understand the lives of these incredible characters.

Give yourself a few hours in this outstanding museum.

Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www. liliesleaf.co.za. Open daily 09:00–16:00. Admission R60, children 8–17 years old R30, under 7 free. Guided tours from R110. ULKW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see CRADLE OF HUMANKIND AND MAROPENG This cave-strewn area (58km from Joburg), now a World Heritage Site, is where some of the most important hominid fossil discoveries in the world have been made. The striking Maropeng Museum with its burial-mound design is the main visitors’ centre. It takes an interactive approach to the history of life, from the big bang to the evolution of humans, the discovery of fire and the spread of people across the continents. Tour the nearby Sterkfontein Caves to see the remains of Little Foot, Mrs Ples and other famous fossils.QR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Cave tours every 30 minutes. Admission to Maropeng R145, students R85, kids under 14, R82. Sterkfontein Caves R150, students R85, kids under 14 R88. Combination ticket (Sterkfontein Caves and Maropeng), R215, kids under 14, R155.

Free for kids under four. ULK MOAD The first new museum in the city in years, the Museum of African Design in Maboneng is housed in a cavernous industrial building. Its focus is on contemporary African art, fashion and culture and it brings together a fascinating mix of artists and thinkers. A cultural laboratory rather than a collecting museum.QG-4, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.moadjhb.com. Open Tue–Sun 10:00– 18:00, Thu until 23:00. Closed Mon. Admission R20. Free for children, students. Thurs free to all.

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Maropeng Museum

MUSEUM AFRICA This impressive old building was once the city’s fruit and vegetable market. Nowadays it has an air of neglect but it still hosts excellent temporary exhibitions worth a visit. Permanent displays include the origins and customs of South Africa’s ethnic groups, a history of political cartoons and a small exhibit on Gandhi’s time in Joburg. The fifth floor is dedicated to an astonishing photography collection.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Sq, Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

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What to see are invited to make and leave a paper dove as a symbol of dedication to the winners’ values of peace, justice, equality and freedom for all. The museum can be found behind Montego Bay restaurant to the right of the Nelson Mandela statue.QNelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 79 545 2703, www.peacemakersmuseum.co.za.

Open 11:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–18:00. Admission free.

Jazz at the Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre

NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY The Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory was founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive and centre for the continuation of the work of the Nelson Mandela Foundation. It focuses on the life and times of Mandela and his lifelong dedication to social justice. The exhibit is complimented by many personal artefacts such as his letters from prison and his Nobel Peace prize. Two blocks away is Mandela’s final home on 4th Street.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela. org. Visits by appointment only. LU NIROX SCULPTURE PARK Set in 15 magnificent hectares in a nature reserve in the Cradle of Humankind, Nirox Foundation hosts an annual sculpture fair in May (see What’s On). From May 10 to July, visit the Winter 2014 exhibition of sculpture and installations by more than 50 artists.Q24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 82 854 6963, www.niroxarts.com. Open Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun public holidays 10:00–15:00 or by appointment.

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum showcases the origins of humankind. It explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing their emergence along an 80 000-yearlong path to its African source. The exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art and paleoanthropological, archaeological and genetic materials, including ancient tools and artefacts of spiritual significance. It throws a fascinating light on San culture and rituals. Spend 90 minutes or a few hours, and also visit the gift store.QB-2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za.

Open Mon–Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. Adults R60, children under 12 (accompanied by an adult) R35.

Guide fee R180 (minimum 10 people). ULK PEACEMAKERS MUSEUM A small museum dedicated to the many winners of the Nobel Peace Prize. The exhibition begins by providing a full list of all winners to date before moving on to focus on the work of South Africa’s four Nobel laureates: Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, F.W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela. Visitors 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SAB WORLD OF BEER A light-hearted, multi-sensory experience tracing the history of all things beer, from ancient Egypt to the present day. Highlights include a crisp, cold one in a replica of a 19th-century South African pub. Tours last approximately 80 minutes and leave every half hour. Over 18s only.QC4, 15 President St (Cnr Gerard Sekoto St), Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 49 00, www.worldofbeer.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00 (last tour 16:30). Closed Mon, Sun. Admission R65 (R60 with a City Sightseeing Bus ticket), students R55.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908–1909 Gandhi lived in this house with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, devoting his time to living a simple, meditative life and developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and nonviolent civil disobedience). The house is now a guest house and museum dedicated to Gandhi’s principles, and exhibits various photos, correspondence, journal entries and beautifully displayed inspirational quotes. Overnight guests have the chance to book meditation classes and enjoy homecooked vegetarian meals.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. Open 10:30–16:00. Admission R40. LW SOPHIATOWN CULTURAL CENTRE The centre recreates the vibrant age of Sophiatown and its community destroyed by apartheid. It showcases Sophiatown photography from the 1950s and cultural icons from that age, including singer Dolly Rathebe and musician Hugh Masekela. The centre is also linked to the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre (www.trevorhuddleston.org).

Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130, www. sophiatown.net. Open 10:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–13:00 or by appointment. Closed Fri, Sun. Heritage exhibition and guide R35 per adult, R15 for children. Guided walking tours R70. Live music events R100. TU WORKERS’ MUSEUM Built in 1913 for male African migrant workers employed by the nearby power station, this compound originally housed 300 men in just nine rooms, and was still in use in the early 1980s. Photographs and personal testimonies illustrate not only the daily hardships, dangers and humiliations faced by migrant workers, but also the feelings of homesickness, fear and guilt they experienced at having left their families behind.QB-4, 52 Jeppe St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 336 9190, www.joburg.org.za/museumsgalleries/workers-museum. Open 09:00–16.30. Closed Mon. Admission free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see PLACES OF INTEREST The city is forever changing and people from all walks of life continue to leave their mark on this very cosmopolitan landscape, so no visit is complete without experiencing the city’s streets. Whether you are looking for the latest hipster neighbourhoods, pan-African cuisine, gold-rush mining history or majestic public buildings, Joburg has it all.

DIAGONAL STREET Once the town’s gold-rush heart, its colour and bustle gives a rare sense of an earlier Joburg. Architect Helmut Jahn’s building at number 11 resembles a multifaceted diamond. A great place to buy fabrics, see traditional artefacts and public art. See Safety Tips.QC-4/5, Runs diagonally between Sauer St and Ntemi Piliso St, City Centre.

CITY CENTRE CARLTON CENTRE ROOF OF AFRICA Built in the 1970s, the 223m Colossus is still Africa’s tallest skyscraper. While the area no longer commands a sense of prestige, the 360-degree view from the 50th floor is unrivalled.QE-4/5, Carlton Centre, 150 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 308 13 31. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Admission R15, children under 10, R10.

FASHION KAPITOL Follow the stylish young things to this rejuvenated square in the Fashion District, the site of the city’s early garment industry. The surrounding demarcated city blocks house fashion stores, fabric shops and loads of small manufacturers. The Saturday market is a platform for emerging fashion designers.QF-4, 130 Pritchard St, off Troye St, New Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 333 7372, www.fashiondistrict.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, closed Sun. UBK

CHANCELLOR HOUSE The window displays of this smart little museum – housed in what was once the first black law firm in the city, Mandela and Tambo Attorneys (1952–56), tell the story of the fight against apartheid’s draconian restrictions. Selfie opportunity with Marco Cianfanelli’s Shadow Boxing sculpture of Mandela.QC-5, Cnr Fox St and Gerard Sekoto St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

LITTLE ADDIS The informal name of the vibrant Ethiopian district packed into buildings along Jeppe Street that used to house doctors and lawyers. It has a dizzying array of restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops. Linger for a delicious meal or a coffee ceremony. Ancient Secrets and Joburg Places offer guided walks here (see Tours).QE-4, Jeppe and Troye St, City Centre.

CITY HALL, CENOTAPH AND LIBRARY City Hall (1915) is a rare gem, a grand Edwardian-style national monument. The Cenotaph war memorial sits between City Hall and the library in Beyers Naudé (a cleric and leading anti-apartheid activist) Square. Inaugurated in 1926, it is a replica of Edwin Luytens’s monument in Whitehall, London. Built in the 1930s, the superb Italianate-style public library, containing 1.5 million items, has been beautifully restored. CITY HALLQD-4, Cnr Rissik and President Sts. CENOTAPHQD-4, Cnr Harrison St and Albertina Sisulu Rd. PUBLIC LIBRARYQC-4, President and Sauer Sts, tel. +27 11 022 5174. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

MABONENG What started with the redevelopment of an industrial building on Fox and Main Streets has become a jewel of inner-city redevelopment. Maboneng (‘place of light’ in Sotho) is a hip lifestyle district of art galleries; restaurants; boutiques; the Sunday Market on Main; and Joburg’s newest museum, the Museum of African Design. Definitely the place to play.QG-4, Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre.

MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT The heart of the City of Gold’s mining history the charming pedestrianised street contains various relics from the early gold-rush days.QC-5/D-5, Main St, City Centre.

Joburg’s pride and joy – the Nelson Mandela Bridge

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What to see permarket and an exceptional restaurant, Ottoman Palace.

For a fascinating insight into the history of the mosque and Ottoman architecture, call to book a tour with Ahmed Koban.QLe Roux Ave, Midrand, tel. +27 79 029 0488, www.nizamiye.co.za.

NAN HUA BUDDHIST TEMPLE The magnificent Nan Hua Temple was donated by Taiwanese Buddhists when Taiwan had close ties with South Africa and is the largest Buddhist temple in the southern hemisphere. It is located in Bronkhorstspruit (about 45 minutes’ drive to the north-east of Joburg). Open for lunch on Sundays from 12:00–13:00.Q27 Nan Hua St, Bronkhorstspruit, http://home.nanhuatemple.org.

Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon.

MUSEUM OF MAN AND SCIENCE Not quite a museum but a fascinating cultural trip. This 60-year-old traditional-medicine shop sells more than 1 900 indigenous herbs prescribed by inyangas (traditional healers). Make an appointment with the resident sangoma.

QC-4, 14 Diagonal St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 836 4470.

Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–13:30. Closed Sun.

Albertina and Walter Sisulu, Diagonal Street

NELSON MANDELA BRIDGE This 284m-long cable-stayed bridge (2003) connecting Braamfontein and Newtown is the most impressive new landmark, especially at night when it lights up with the colours of the rainbow.QC-3, Bertha St, Braamfontein.

RAND CLUB This historic members-only club founded in 1887, recalls a bygone era of British colonial style and fabulous mining wealth. Nowadays all genders and races are welcome (as long as they obey the smart dress code).QD-5, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 870 4260, www.randclub. co.za.

SPIRITUAL SITES MOSQUE NIZAMIYE (NIZAMIYE COMPLEX) The biggest mosque in the southern hemisphere, Nizamiye Masjid opened in 2012 and is modelled on a 16thcentury Turkish mosque. With its 21 small domes, marble columns and rich mosaics, it is an architectural site to marvel at. The complex houses a school, clinic, Turkish su42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Paper pigeons, Ferreirasdorp

Playmakers, Joburg Theatre, Braamfontein

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What to see PUBLIC ART People who live in Joburg rarely extol its beauty. Mostly they point out that it is a city without an ocean and, until the Nelson Mandela Bridge was built, one without any landmarks that aren’t communication towers or apartment blocks. And those are the polite remarks. But over the past few years an impressive and growing number of public artworks have been installed. The city’s splurge recognising the different communities that contribute to making Joburg the city it is today.

BRAAMFONTEIN ALLEYWAYS Five years ago no one would have dreamed of saying ‘I will meet you in a Braamfontein alleyway,‘ unless they had plans to perform a mugging or be a victim of one. But a recent and ongoing upgrade project is changing that. On an exterior wall of the Bannister Hotel Tania Ohlsen and Sandile Radebe’s mirror mosaic Birds take flight. An oversized Braamfontein sign made from recycled bottle tops

by Thabang Selai adorns a wall in The Grove Piazza. A little further away, you get to look up and see an installation of umbrellas suspended in the sky, as Phumla Gqada’s painted umbrellas float up a wall towards them. Josef Talotta, who heads up precinct development for local developer South Point, says it’s not unusual to see people relaxing in alleyways they previously would have fled past, and it has also created shortcuts through this neighbourhood with its galleries, cafes, restaurants and buzzing student life. The works are located in southern Braamfontein, bounded by Biccard and De Beer Sts (east-west) and Juta and Jorissen Sts (north-south). The project is a collaboration between the Braamfontein Improvement District, The Trinity Session and the Johannesburg Development Agency. If you are planning a walkabout see Where to Eat for suggestions on where to stop.

Tania Ohlsen's flight plan, Bannister Hotel

A FEW CITY FAVOURITES PAPER PIGEONS Gerhard and Maja Marx’s (2009) 3m-high grey steel origami pigeons have metal rods encouraging birds to roost on them.

QC-5, Intersection of Main Reef and Albertina Sisulu Rds, Ferreirasdorp.

ANGEL OF THE NORTH The 5m-tall concrete winged angel by Winston Luthuli (2010) welcomes all to Hillbrow (next to Constitution Hill). It resembles a miniature version of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer.QD-2, Cnr Queen and Kotze Sts, Hillbrow.

ELAND Clive van den Berg’s (2007) giant antelope garlanded with Highveld plants greets visitors to Braamfontein. It evokes the natural environment that has been taken over by a growing metropolis.QC-2, Cnr Bertha and Ameshoff Sts, Braamfontein.

SHADOW BOXING Marco Cianfanelli returned Nelson Mandela to the city with this 6m-tall steel sculpture (2013) depicting Mandela as a boxer, and based on a historical photo by Drum photographer Bob Gosani taken in 1952.QC-5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp (opposite Chancellor House Museum).

A perfect place to sing in the rain

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Tour companies like Past Experiences (see Tours) offer guided public-art walks. See johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for more public art.

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What to see FNB STADIUM With the World Cup taking centre stage soccer fans will love this tour of the landmark 94 000-seater ‘calabash’ stadium that hosted the opening and closing games of World Cup 2010. Get access to the pitch, players changing rooms and VVIP area (this is where Barack Obama and the world’s leaders spent time at Nelson Mandela’s memorial service).QGate B, Soccer City Ave, FNB Stadium, Nasrec. Tel +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za. Prices from R60.

FNB Stadium, Nasrec

TOURS WORTH TAKING ANCIENT SECRETS Chef Ishvara Dhyan specialises in culinary walks taking in diverse cultures. His tours include a Fordsburg spice walk, exploring Asian culture in Cyrildene’s Chinatown, Ethiopian culture and a walkabout of African traditional culture.QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets.co.za. Prices from R100.

DLALA NJE Operating from the (once notorious city landmark) Ponte City’s community centre journalist Nickolaus Bauer and Mike Luptak offers tours of Hillbrow and neighbouring Yeovilles diverse African communities. Their night tours are a culinary adventure.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org. Prices from R180.

JOBURG CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS The open-top, hop-on hop-off bus is a great way to zoom around many of the biggest sights in one day. The Red City Tour takes a circular route around downtown Joburg and the south, making 11 stops. A Soweto Tour leaves from Gold Reef City in a minibus taking in the townships’ hotspots.QBuses leave from 09:00 from Park Station’s Gautrain bus parking area (cnr Wolmarans and Rissik Sts), tel. 0861 733 287, www. citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. The last bus leaves at 15:40. Buses every 40 mins Mon-Fri and every 30 mins Sat and Sun. One-day Red City Tour tickets from R170.

Combined Red City Tour and Soweto Tour one-day ticket R420. Discounted tickets available online.

JOBURG PLACES Gerald Garner (whose books on Joburg are must-haves) focuses on the inner city, telling entertaining tales of Joburg’s gold-rush origins, its glory days, eventual, spectacular decline and the fascinating story of its rebirth during the past decade. Tours include the Regenerated Inner-City Walk, the Newtown-to-Maboneng Tour, Gandhi-to-Mandela tours, or shopping and food experiences in the Fashion District.QD-5, The Turret, cnr Marshall and Loveday Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 82 894 5216, www.joburgplaces.com. Prices from R330.

MAINSTREETWALKS Innovative Bheki Dube, who also manages Curiocity Backpackers in Maboneng offers an Art and Justice Tour taking in Gandhi Square and Constitution Hill, and tours of the inner city, street art and graffiti, Little Addis and the fascinating Mai Mai traditional healers’ market.QG-4, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng tel. +27 72 880 9583, www. mainstreetwalks.co.za.

Prices from R200.

PAST EXPERIENCES Duo Jo Buitendach and Tania Ohlsen care deeply about the inner city, its communities, buildings, art, graffiti and its future. Try the shopping tour, specialised Mandela tour, or the graffiti and street art tours. The Soweto tour includes a bus trip and a picnic.QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences. co.za. Prices from R350.

SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE TOURS Sophiatown (also called Sof’town or Kofifi) was the epicentre of jazz, politics and literary Joburg in the 1950s. Mbali Zwane’s moving tour gives insight into the life of this neigbourhood destroyed by the apartheid government’s forced-removals policy in 1955.

Q73 Toby Street, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 79 319 0578, www.sophiatown.net. Walking tours Sat at 11:00 or by arrangement, cost R70 per adult.

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Soweto Located 30km south-west of Joburg, South Africa’s most famous township is also by far its largest. Although many areas are still desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier neighbourhoods and a growing middle-class.

The township was always at the forefront of the struggle against apartheid, and was once home to Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, both Nobel Peace Prize winners. There are several worthwhile historical sights and museums to visit. Soweto has a cultural, music and social scene all its own, while soccer is a huge obsession for the many fans of its two mega-clubs: Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Locals are outgoing and friendly, proud of Soweto and keen to make sure tourists enjoy their stay and leave with positive impressions. For sport and culture events, see What’s On. For accommodation in Soweto, see Where to Stay.

Orlando Towers, Soweto

GETTING TO SOWETO

SIGHTSEEING

BY CAR The main tourist destinations such as Vilakazi Street, the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum and the football stadiums are well sign-posted.

HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM The museum focuses on the events leading to the Soweto school uprising that started on June 16, 1976.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 115 36 06 11. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R30.

TOURS A great way to really get to know the township on a first visit is by hiring a local guide or by joining one of the many bus, walking or cycling tours. The more adventurous can hop on a quad bike, or, if you are searching for some peace, try a birdwatching tour (see Tours overleaf ).

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Rea Vaya routes from the city centre pass all the most famous sights, making a self-guided tour by public transport a safe and relatively easy option. For Vilakazi Street take the T-1 to Boomtown and then the F-4 to Vilakazi (or alternatively walk for 15 minutes). For Regina Mundi church, take the T-1 to Thokoza Park (from where there are also Rea Vaya buses to Kliptown).

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MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Nelson Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house in the late 1950s and early 1960s.Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 7754, www.mandelahouse.com.

Open 09:00–16:45.

REGINA MUNDI CHURCH This church played a huge role in the struggle against apartheid.Q1149 Kumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Soweto, tel. +27 11 980 5450, www.reginamundichurch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

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Soweto LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS A great way to experience Soweto is on a cycling, walking or tuk-tuk tour.QSoweto Backpackers, 10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobicycletours.com. Bicycle tours: two hours R390, four hours R480 (including lunch), full day R620. Tuk-tuk tours: two hours R335, four hours R520 per person (including lunch). Walking tour: three hours R335. Discounted prices for guests at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers and for groups.

Chaf Pozi

VILAKAZI STREET Probably the most famous street in Soweto, it was once home to Nelson and Winnie Mandela, while Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu still has a house here.QVilakazi St, Orlando West.

WALTER SISULU SQUARE An open-air museum explains how the Freedom Charter was written in 1955.QKlipspruit Valley Rd and Union Ave, Kliptown, www.waltersisulusquare.co.za.

TOURS AND LOCAL GUIDES

SOWETO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Quad bike tours as well as go-karting, paintball and camping.QDynamo St, Soweto, tel. +27 72 692 8159, www. sowetooutdooradventures.co.za.

EAT, DRINK, SHOP CHAF POZI Sowetans and Joburgers come in their hundreds to enjoy a beer and some shisa nyama with pap (maize porridge). Reservations recommended.QOrlando Towers, cnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando East, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www.chafpozi.co.za. Open Wed– Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR (corkage R30).

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BAY OF GRACE TOURS The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto.QDynamo St, off Chris Hani Rd, Soweto, tel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours.wozaonline.com. From R150 for a half-day.

Kids under 12 free. Township tours R650; kids under 12 half-price.

SAKHUMZI One of the most popular Soweto places to eat out or have a beer. Try local dishes such as mogadu (tripe stew), chakalaka (spicy vegetable stew), ox liver or even maotwana (chicken feet).Q6980 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 939 4427, www.sakhumzi.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sun 11:00–24:00. RR EBL

JOBURG CITY SIGHTSEEING SOWETO TOUR This minibus tour of Soweto leaves three times a day from Gold Reef City and takes you on a comprehensive twohour journey with six stops along the way.QGold Reef City, cnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg.

Combined Joburg and Soweto tickets cost R400 (R350 if you book online).

THE ROCK A glamorous bar and lounge and the best place to enjoy a rooftop sundowner. Weekend afternoons are particularly popular.Q1987 Vundla St, Rockville (Moroka), tel. +27 11 986 8182. B

Hector Pieterson Memorial

Chris Kirchhoff, mediaclubsouthafrica.com

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THRIVE CAFÉ A slick, modern café-style alternative to the area’s more traditional township fare with excellent coffee, cakes, fresh salads and healthy breakfasts.Q8038 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 536 1838, thrivecafe.co.za. Open 07:30–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Corkage R30. TULBSW MAPONYA MALL Soweto’s first mega-mall takes its name from Richard Maponya, a Soweto entrepreneur and race-horse owner who is legendary for having overcome the strictures of apartheid to create a retail empire.Q2127 Chris Hani Rd, Klipspruit Ext 5, tel. +27 11 938 4448, www.maponyamall. co.za. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–17:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. TBKS johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping From mega-malls and chic little high streets to African markets and beaded roadside attractions, Joburg has something for every shopper. There are malls galore and in recent years an increasing appetite for street life in urban neighbourhoods such as Braamfontein and Maboneng.

The remodelling of Rosebank around an open piazza and the enormous popularity of outdoor centres like Blubird in Birnam, 44 Stanley in Milpark and Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue as weekend hotspots indicate this trend.

MARKETS AFRICAN SOUVENIR MARKETS If you are based in Sandton, look for the SANDTON CRAFT MARKET behind the library on Nelson Mandela Square.

Vendors sell high-quality handcrafted items and paintings.

At Rosebank Mall there is a similar (and considerably larger) AFRICAN CRAFT MARKET famous for its wide variety and hard-bargaining vendors. For a completely different experience visit the MAI MAI MARKET, dubbed the ‘place of healers’. Here sangomas (healers) proffer all manner of exotic muti (traditional medicine). It is best visited with a guide and is not a place for those offended by dead animals.

SANDTON CRAFT MARKETQNelson Mandela Square, Maude and West Sts, Sandton. Open 09:00–18:00.

AFRICAN CRAFT MARKETQRosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, Rosebank. Open 09:00–17:00.

MAI MAI MARKETQG-5, Cnr Anderson and Berea Sts, City Centre. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. ANTIQUES AND COLLECTABLES FAIRS For treasure-hunting at one of the biggest antique markets in South Africa.QNelson Mandela Sq, Maude and West Sts, Sandton, ssaf.co.za. First Sun of month, from 09:00–16:00. UL B&B MARKETS NORWOOD Funfair and entertainment for the kids, loads of shopping and good food for the grown-ups.QRooftop, Norwood Mall, cnr 6th Ave and Hamlin St, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 444 4488, www.craft.co.za/our-markets/bbmarkets-norwood. Sun 09:00–16:00. TULE COLLECTIVE For stylish designer goods including vintage clothing, fabrics and homeware with a stunning Sandton view.Q3 Desmond Ave, Kramerville, tel. +27 83 967 8995, www. collective-jhb.com. Open 10:00–16:00 on the first Sun of the month. L FINDERS KEEPERS MARKET For the biggest collection of innovative African art and craft plus marimba bands and other family fun.QRosebank Mall (rooftop), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 72 243 8582, www.finderskeepersmarket.co.za.

Sun 09:00–16:00. TLE facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Fourways Farmers’ Market

FOURWAYS FARMERS’ MARKET N For a chilled Sunday lunch in a rustic setting. Far from the city hustle with outstanding food to eat now or later.

QEarth Outdoor Living Nursery, cnr William Nicol Drv and Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, www.ffmarket.co.za.

Every Sun from 09:00–14:00.

LOCRATE N For edgy African fashions and great local bands. A novel way to enjoy Soweto a short distance from Vilakazi Street.

QCnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. First Sun of the month, from 10:00–17:00.

MARKET ON MAIN For feeling the heartbeat of Maboneng. Cool vintage fashion, craft beers and delicious food.Q264 Fox St (Arts on Main), Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www. marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00. Night market first Thu of the month 19:00–23:00. TLBW NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKET Join the cool kids for frozen margaritas, stylish accessories and foodie treats at this mega-busy market in a happening city location.Q73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www. neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00 –15:00. B WHOLE FOOD MARKET N For organic goods, homemade food and condiments, artisan cheeses and more from local traders. Also similar market at 40 Culross Rd, Bryanston (Thu, Sat 09:00–15:00).

QBluBird Centre, cnr Athol Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 83 311 4768, www.wholefoodmarketsa. com. Sun 09:00–14:00. TULW

Maria McCloy Accessories, Market on Main

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Shopping MELROSE ARCH Best for: streetside café culture and high-street shopping.

Lots of fashion stores along with a flagship Edgars department store. For big budgets head to Elegance jewellers, then join the waiting list for Tasha’s café.QMelrose Blvd, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 0000, www.melrosearch.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. ULB

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City

MALLS From the super-luxe Hyde Park Corner where the ladies lunch and drop thousands of rand on designer labels to Rosebank’s The Zone, thronging with hip young things in search of the latest trends, you have arrived in Mall City. For the Oriental Plaza, see Fordsburg Delights.

BLUBIRD Best for: eating outdoors – the centre’s many restaurants have patio seating. Head to Belle’s Patisserie for exceptional cakes, and gift store Le Bijou for fashion jewellery and homeware gifts. On Sundays visit the pop-up Whole Food Market.QCnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 887 2759, www.blubird.co.za. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. ULB CRESTA N Best for: clothing, outdoor gear, sportswear, accessories and everything else. This elegant and sprawling mall has 250 stores, an excellent fast-food court, cinemas and even houses a theatre.QCnr Beyers Naude Dr and Weltevreden Rd, Blackheath, Randburg, tel. +27 11 6785306, www.crestacentre.co.za. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. L EASTGATE SHOPPING CENTRE Best for: shopping and more shopping. A mega-mall 20km from O.R. Tambo International Airport with close to 271 stores that include boutiques, jewellery and street-fashion stores, cinemas and rooftop restaurants.Q43 Bradford Rd, Bedfordview, tel. + 27 11 479 6000, www.eastgatecentre. co.za. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–21:00, Sat– Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00. UL HYDE PARK CORNER Best for: premium designer labels and rubbing shoulders with the city’s elite. This swanky mall has jewels fit for royalty at Charles Greig and international catwalk labels from top-drawer brands. Carol Boyes stocks South Africandesigned pewter and silver cutlery and flatware.Q6th Rd, cnr Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkshopping.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 09:00– 18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00. UL 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

NORWOOD MALL N Best for: supermarket shopping at the biggest Pick n Pay Hypermarket. Lots of kosher goods here and a Food Lovers Market with a sushi counter.QCnr Hamlin and 6th Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 728 6640. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–15:00. L ROSEBANK MALL & THE ZONE Best for: clothes shopping, being seen and mainstream and art-house movies. Under renovation, it is set to emerge with 160 new stores. Youthful crowds flock to The Zone (tel. +27 11 537 3800, www.the-zoneatrosebank. co.za. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–17:00) for hip labels and an entertainment arcade. The Firs is all grown up, with a great restaurant piazza.QBaker St, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.themallofrosebank.co.za. UL SANDTON CITY & NELSON MANDELA SQUARE Best for: all-you-can-buy shopping. A stylish centre with over 300 stores for a wide range of budgets, and a mega cinema complex. Joined by a corridor is the glam tourist hotspot Nelson Mandela Square (tel. +27 11 217 6001, www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–16:00) with its restaurantflanked piazza.QCnr Sandton Drv and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com.

Open Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. LK

ALTERNATIVE MALLS 44 STANLEY Best for: fashion and collectables. This once unremarkable 1930s industrial complex is now a design destination with shady courtyards and an eclectic collection of specialty boutiques.Q44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 10:00–16:00 and Sun 10:00–15:00. LB BAMBOO Away from Melville’s student haunts, Bamboo houses a small but sophisticated collection of fashion stores, a superb bookshop and two recommended eating spots (see Where To Eat). Artist Sue-Pam Grant’s fascinating installation space is across the road.QCnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bambooonline.co.za. Service Station open Mon–Fri 07:30– 18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30. Other stores Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. L johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BOOKS

IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :)

NEW BOOKS DAVID KRUT BOOKSTORE Part of a print workshop and art gallery, also in Maboneng, this top art book publisher stocks an exquisite range.Q151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 5646, www. davidkrutprojects.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 16:00. Closed Sun. LOVE BOOKS Get owner Kate Rogan’s recommendations on local titles and children’s books. The store also hosts events.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

RAD GALLERY A delightful shop attached to a popular café for quirky design books.QJan Smuts Ave, cnr St Albans Rd, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com.

Open Mon–Wed 07:30–16:30, Thu–Fri 07:30–19:00, Sat 08:30-14:30. Closed Sun. K EXCLUSIVE BOOKS A chain store. The Nelson Mandela Square branch is the leader.QShop U110/112, Upper Level, Nelson Mandela Sq, 8 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 5416, www. exclus1ves.co.za. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–22:30, Sat 09:00–22:30, Sun 09:00–21:00. UL For a great list of where to find used and collectable books, go to johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. O

CRAFTED GOODS 1886 BOUTIQUE JOBURG An ode to Joburg and its landmarks in a myriad of quirky household objects.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 469 3770. Open Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. L ART AFRICA A treasure trove for South African arts and crafts, from high-end collectables to small gift items.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 486 2052. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00.

‘From the streets of Joburg to the streets of the world’ is the tagline of this innovative studio that produced our cover photo. An outlet for former street kids who receive photography training through the I Was Shot Foundation, Bernard Viljoen started this photography project in 2009 in unusual circumstances. A threemonth community-service stint, where he committed to working at a children’s shelter to train youngsters to take photographs with disposable cameras, is today a platform for providing young men with skills that have brought access to opportunities previously beyond their reach. The confidence that stems from this is inestimable, as is the value of having the means to earn a living. Today iwasshot in joburg :) produces a range of products that include mounted canvases of their unique urban photographs, T-shirts, notebooks and corporate gifts, selling them from their store in Maboneng and online.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, www. iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

KIM SACKS GALLERY N From tribal art to contemporary hand-made objects from rural and urban makers. Danish-trained ceramicist Kim Sacks also stocks collectable ceramic pieces.Q153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, www. kimsacks.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–17:00.

Closed Sun.

CERAMIC FACTORY Quirky and functional ceramic design items.Q59 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 11 057 4314, www.ceramicfactory. co.za. Open Mon–Sat (call to check).

KITENGE CREAXIONS N This tiny container store in Maboneng stocks vibrant bolts of East African cloth and a range of covetable accessories.

QG-4, Maverick Corner, Commissioner and Albrecht Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 028 0226, . Open Tue–Fri 11:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon.

FIREHOUSE N Linen, ceramics, tableware and homeware, from essentials to luxury gifts and art pieces.Q6 Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2225, www.fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun.

SERINGA LIVING GALLERY N Virgina Greenwell’s Parkhurst home is a living gallery showcasing beautiful pieces of furniture and art, and also stocks a beautiful range of African accessories and clothing.Q17 2nd St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 76 819 6465, www. seringalivinggallery.com. Call for an appointment.

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Shopping LUXURY JOBURG Deon Prinsloo is head concierge at the five-star Palazzo Hotel at Montecasino. Prinsloo has worked at The Palace of The Lost City and The One and Only Royal Mirage in Dubai. He is also a member of the prestigious international concierge association, Golden Keys. These are his picks of luxury Joburg.

1. A celebrity favourite and the best treat, SOHO’s signature pedicure is out of this world and includes soaking your feet in ‘enchanted crystals’.QShop L31C, Entrance 6, Sandton City, tel. +27 11 784 0370, www. sohonycsalon.com. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

2. Less than an hour’s drive from Joburg is STIRLING MANOR, a five-star boutique guest house. Watch the best sunsets from your balcony overlooking the Hartebeespoort Dam.Q38 Scott St, Schoemansville, Hartebeespoort, North West, tel. +27 12 253 2532, stirlingmanor.com.

3. I love flowers, especially white flowers, and at FOURWAYS FLOWER MARKET they always know what to suggest.QPineslopes Centre, Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 705 1632. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–13:00.

4. TEATRO AT MONTECASINO stages the most exciting shows in town (see What’s On).

5. An excursion with Bill Harrop’s ORIGINAL BALLOON SAFARIS lets you leave Earth for a while and escape into the clouds.QTel. +27 11 705 3201, www.balloon.co.za.

6. JEWEL AFRICA is the place for the most exquisite bling around, or to have your jewellery pieces rejuvenated.QThe Pivot at Montecasino, Fourways, tel. +27 11 011 9107, www.jewelafrica.com.

7. Champagne is my all-time favourite drink and LEVEL FOUR RESTAURANT AND CHAMPAGNE BAR at 54 on Bath Hotel is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of well-chilled bubbles (see Anyone For A Drink?).

8. The ultimate dining experience in Joburg is at FIVE HUNDRED at the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, one of my favourite places to visit and an all-round top hotel destination.Q36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. Open Tue–Sun 18:00–24:00.

9. I enjoy a night on the dancefloor and NICCI BEACH regularly hosts top DJs. Always a great night out!QNicci Beach, 1 Margaret Ln, Boksburg, tel.+27 11 823 5714, www.niccibeach.co.za. Open Thu 18:00–late, Fri 20:00– late, Sat 17:00–late, Sun 14:00–late.

10. The perfect place for a walk in the park is WALTER SISULU NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS. Depending on the season you may find your favourite flowers in bloom.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu.

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Kitenge Creaxions, Maboneng

FASHION AUGUSTINE N Made-to-measure men’s suits with unique detailing, plus a ready-to-wear collection.Q87 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. + 27 11 447 1566, www.augustineclothing.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. BLACK COFFEE & LOVE JOZI Jacques van der Watt combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction. Love Jozi is an innovative T-shirt and design company with Joburg as inspiration.

QBamboo, cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.blackcoffee.co.za. www.lovejozi.co.za. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00– 15:00. Also at Arts on Main, Maboneng.

D.O.P.E. N Street style for the terminally hip, for skater boys and girls and other fashionable young urbanistas. Sneakers, media, local and international branded clothing.QD-4, 95 Commissioner St (cnr Loveday St), City Centre, http:// dopestore.tumblr.com. Open Mon–Thu 10:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00.

EGALITY For him and her, this elegant store on the most happening suburban street showcases a great range of local designer threads plus selected international brands.Q25 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 71 452 2503, www.egality.co.za.

Open daily and on public holidays 09:00–18:00. L GUILLOTINE BY LISA JAFFE Sensual fitted forms and luxurious fabrics. Tailoring and structure are what gives this label a cutting edge. The store also stocks L’mad, Lucy MacGarry’s range of silk printed scarves bearing original artworks.QShop G3C, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 82 222 3635, www. guillotinedesign.com. Open Tue–Sat: 09:00–16:30, Sun 10:00–14:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Gay Joburg KLUK CGDT This beautiful Parkhurst store houses Kluk CGDT, a highly refined exclusive label offering ready-to-wear and couture clothing.Q46 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 83 377 7730, www.klukcgdt.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 14:30. Closed Sun.

JEWELLERY Head to the malls for the widest selection.

KIRSTEN GOSS Fine handcrafted jewellery in gold and silver with precious stones. Durban-born Kirsten Goss made her name as a jewellery designer in London.QShop 2A, 66 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 447 2234, www.kirstengoss. com. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–16:30. Sat 09:30–13:00.

Closed Sun and public holidays.

READS For designer antique and locally made jewellery, silverware and other beautiful objects.QShop 4, The Zone@ Rosebank, tel. +2711 880 2702, www.reads.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. L TINSEL Beautiful locally made contemporary jewellery.Q25 4th Ave, cnr 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 2761, www. tinsel.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. L

WINE AND SPIRITS NORMAN GOODFELLOWS Not just another bottle store, NGF specialises in expert advice, excellent service and a superb range of just about anything you might have a taste for. Multiple branches.

Q192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf. co.za. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. L WINE CONCEPTS Specialises in Cape wines with a handpicked selection of rare and unusual labels.QBluBird Centre, cnr AthollOaklands Rd and Lymington Ave, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 5498, wineconcepts.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–14:00.

It’s an oft-heard lament that Joburg’s gay scene lacks the oomph it once had, when Braamfontein was the gay capital and, ironically, South Africa didn’t have a Constitution protecting gay rights. Today no one part of the city is gay Joburg.

HISTORY GALA (Gay and Lesbian Archives) offers queer history tours of sites of South Africa’s struggle for LGBT rights.

Q7th floor, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4239, www.gala.co.za.

CONSTITUTION HILL Built on the site where men were jailed for ‘immorality’ during the apartheid era, it’s now the home of the world’s first constitution to specifically give gays and lesbians equal rights (see Museums).

ART Own a piece of cultural activism. Award-winning lesbian photographer Zanele Muholi documents the often perilous lives of black lesbian women. She is represented by Stevenson Gallery.QC-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun. MARRIAGE An ultimate to do in Joburg. Marry the love of your life.

Same-sex marriage is legal in South Africa and the city is dotted with wedding venues. Check out ENGEDI HOTEL, an oasis in the Cradle of Humankind (Protea Ridge, Honingklip Rd, Kromdraai, tel. +27 86 136 4334, www.engedi.co.za) or eco-friendly VALVERDE COUNTRY HOTEL (Beyers Naude Ext, Lammermoor, Muldersdrift, tel. +27 82 778 7089, valverde. co.za).

CLUBS 1ST FRIDAY EXCLUSIVE GAY GIRL CLUB A party exclusively for gay girls and their straight girlfriends on the first Friday of the month.QVacca Matta, Montecasino, Cnr Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 82 894 6114, www.1stgaygirl.co.za. Open 20:00–03:15.

BABYLON A strange location for a pumping gay club, but then there’s not much you can’t find at a shopping mall in Joburg. Dark lighting, pounding trance music and sexy barmen grind on the bar counter in nothing but their Y-fronts. The dancefloor is a riot of ages and colour.

Gays, straights and lesbians all welcome. Cover charge from R30.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3215. Open 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. For the best buns in town (and the burgers aren’t bad either) head to BEEFCAKES next door (see Where to Eat). * Miss Gay Jozi takes place May 17 at 20:00 at Wits Theatre, East Campus, Braamfontein. See www.wits. ac.za/witstheatre.

Seringa Living Gallery, Parkhurst

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Beauty Black Book MAKE-UP AND COSMETICS M.A.C COSMETICS Also in Sandton City and Rosebank, this is the go-to place for professional makeup to make any colour addict happy. Purchase products for R420 and get your makeup done as a bonus. Advance booking required.

QShop HL 11, 3 Cross St, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1186, www.maccosmetics.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. L METROPOLITAIN COSMETICS Branches in Sandton City, Hyde Park Corner and Melrose Arch, Metropolitain stocks an impressive range of imported cosmetics and fragrance brands.QThe Cobbles Centre, 4th Ave (cnr 11th Ave), Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 6771, www.metropolitaincosmetics.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 10:00–14:00, 14:30–17:00. L The Saxon Spa, Sandhurst

Locals like to be pampered so there’s no shortage of hair salons, nail bars, day spas and Thai massages in this town.

BEAUTY LASERDERM Get the latest non-surgical cosmetic treatments here: laser, Fraxel, Botox, chemical peels, and CoolSculpting (said to melt fat away).Q66 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 9232, www.laserderm-sa.com.

Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00 L SORBET One-stop-shop for waxing, facials, massages, and express and deluxe nail treatments in a no-fuss environment. Service is generally friendly and efficient. Also stocks a well-priced range of beauty products.QBranches everywhere, www.sorbet.co.za. W

HAIR SALONS CARLTON HAIR Glamour cuts and colour for men and women. Branches in most major shopping malls. Call for an appointment.QShop SL38, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1251, www.melrosearch.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 08:00-17:00, Sun 08:00-15:00. L

NAIL BARS POLISH A pampering nail spa in a designer setting with a great gift section.QShop 5, The Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Wells and Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 7952, www.polishnailspa.co.za. Mon–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. LW TOAST A stylish pampering spot offering manicures and pedicures plus a range of spa treatments. They also stock a covetable range of costume jewellery, shoes and accessories.QHewstone, 54 Buckingham Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 325 5184, www.toastandco.co.za. Open Mon, Sat 9:00–16:00, Tue–Fri 09:00–18:00. Closed Sun.

SPAS, MASSAGE AFRICOLOGY AT THE MASLOW Africology’s product range uses indigenous ingredients for facials, hydrotherapy, detoxing wraps and massages. There’s also a branch at The Zone @ Rosebank.QThe Maslow Hotel, cnr Rivonia Rd and Grayston Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4688, www.africology-sa.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. A full-body massage (75 minutes) costs R595. L

SALON ROMA Strong espresso and a roomful of Italian barbers, each with their own cubicle and fond memories of home.QCnr 7th Ave and 29 1st Ave East, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 5940. Open Mon–Sat 07:30– 17:30. L

SINZINANI SPA Relaxing African bush spa in a beautiful nature reserve just a 20-minute drive from Joburg. Preorder a picnic hamper, book into the eco hotel, breathe in the fresh air and make it a trip to remember.QThaba Ya Batswana Eco Hotel & Spa, Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.tyb.co.za.

Open Mon 08:00–16:00, Tue 08:00–17:00, Wed, Thu 08:00–19:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00.

SORBET DRY BAR A quick and affordable blow-dry bar offering eight styles at a flat rate of R165.QDunkeld Shopping Centre, Shop 2A, Cnr Bompas Rd and Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2921, www.sorbet.co.za.

Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

LW

THE SAXON SPA A super luxe spa with a range of treatments for men, women and couples. Innovative treatments include a Byzantine-style Rasul chamber. The Elemental Massage (60 minutes) costs R900.Q36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, +27 11 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za/ the-spa-leading.html. Open 08:30–21:00.

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Joburg with kids Joburg is generally a kid-friendly city. For fun family events, see our round-up in What’s On.

RESTAURANTS BAMBANANI For young families it doesn’t get much better than this.

Kids get the run of the indoor and outdoor play areas with full-time child minders and plenty of activities. Adults can take refuge inside with a meal and a bottle of wine. It gets busy, so book ahead.Q85 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2900, www.bambanani.biz. Open Tue–Fri 09:00– 20:00; Sat, Sun and public holidays 08:00–21:00. IB MUNCH AT THE GARDEN SHOP Perfect for brunch or tea in a picturesque green setting.

Kids love feeding the bunnies and ogling the reptiles, snakes, spiders and fish in the shop at this garden centre.

There’s plenty of space to run around safely.QCnr Main and Halifax Rds, Bryanston, www.munchcafe.co.za.

Open Mon–Sun 08:00–17:00. LB PAPPACHINO’S Kids get to make their own pizzas, select from their own menus and scream around the fun activity area, while adults can sit down to cocktails and a menu of meat dishes, pastas, wraps and salads.QCnr Cullinan Close and Rivonia Rd, Morningside, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 1090, www.papachinos.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 08:30–16:30. B

EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES NATIONAL CHILDREN’S THEATRE A regular programme of theatre productions and workshops for children. The productions are of good quality and the theatre space is cleverly designed to let the smallest kids get a perfect view of the action on stage.Q3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. Tickets from R90. LK SCI-BONO DISCOVERY CENTRE Get switched on at the science museum. Regular themed exhibitions and talks that make science fun are part of the programme.QB-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and President Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono. co.za. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 09:30– 16:30. Admission for adults R20, children R10. LK

ART JAMMING ‘Paintertainment’ for all ages. Grab a canvas, some paint and be inspired.QShop 27, Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1608, www.artjamming.co.za.

Open Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. Public holidays 09:00–15:00. Canvases start at R135. L BATTLEZONE PAINTBALL Great for ages 14 and under, but also suitable for adults.

It’s a battlezone out there with places to hide and plenty of sniper opportunities. Helmets and guns are provided.

QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. 0861 468 242, www.battlezone.co.za. Mon–Sat sessions at 08:30–11:30, 11:30–14:30, 14:30–17:30. Open Sun 10:00–13:00, 13:00–16:00. Basic packages from R120.

JOZI X Caters for super-active kids between 5 and 75. There’s mountain boarding, a slackline park, big-wheel trike drifting, a parkour gymnasium and the star attraction: an extreme wipeout course.QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, www.jozix.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00. Wed–Fri from R100; Sat, Sun from R120. L WILD WATERS BOKSBURG A ‘beach’ about 30 minutes east Johannesburg with nine thrilling water activities.QRondebult Rd, off N12, Boksburg, tel. +27 11 826 6736, www.wildwatersboksburg. co.za. Open 10:00-16:00. Park closes at 17:00. Ages 2–7 R65, 8+ R125, pensioners R75. L

OUT AND ABOUT Tanya Kovarsky is a Joburg-based writer, editor and trainer, and blogs at www.rattleandmum.co.za and www.dearmax.org. She suggests: 1. Take a walk on the wild side through the Joburg Zoo.* 2. Visit Gold Reef City,* the city’s best amusement and theme park.

3. Row a boat at Zoo Lake.* 4. Watch a classic on stage at The National Children’s Theatre.

5. Pat lion cubs, feed giraffes and walk cheetahs at the Lion Park.* * See Sport & Outdoors.

FUN AND ENTERTAINMENT THE FUN COMPANY Ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, pool tables and an arcade games room and candy station. The Fun Company is surrounded by retail attractions, a movie house and loads of restaurants.QThe Zone @ Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4099, www.thefuncompany. co.za. Open Mon–Sun 09:00–00:00. L facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Sport & Outdoors CYCLING Crispian Olver is an environmental activist, entrepreneur and passionate cyclist who is campaigning to make Joburg more cycling-friendly. He tells us about cycling in Joburg.

SAFETY TIPS Ours is a car-obsessed society and drivers are often unaware of or disregard cyclists on the shoulder of the road.

The city needs cycling lanes and signage protecting cyclists (the first bike lanes recently opened along Mooki Street, which passes the historic Orlando Stadium in Soweto).

Wear a helmet. Try to anticipate what motorists will do, and don’t assume that they have seen you. Indicate your intentions by signalling. And, of course, always be courteous and help other cyclists.

ALL ABOUT THE BIKE ’Nothing quite prepared me for the absolute joy of being on a bike, in this great city and the surrounding Highveld, under the dramatic African sky. You experience the landscape differently by moving under your own power. Cycling is also a powerful way to connect with people. In February I was part of the first Freedom Ride, a social ride linking Joburg and Soweto to celebrate the legacy of Nelson Mandela (www.freedomride.org.za, intended to be a biannual event). It was amazing to see young, old, black, white, rich and poor shed their differences to cycle across the city. Ours is a car-obsessed society, and drivers are often unaware of cyclists on the shoulder of the road. The city needs cycling lanes and signage protecting cyclists (the first bike lanes opened along Mooki St, Orlando, Soweto, in April). I used to be nervous riding on Joburg’s roads, and instead used my mountain bike along the Braamfontein spruit – a stunning ride from the Melville Koppies through Delta Park down to Bryanston and on to Leeuwkop (in all, about 25km one way, or a 50km loop, but you can turn back at any point.) But I’ve grown to love being on the city’s roads. Participating in the leisurely and offbeat Critical Mass night rides opened my eyes (last Friday of every month, starts cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, jhb.criticalmass.co.za). The sheer numbers (sometimes up to 3 000) means cyclists take over the roads. The ride passes Maboneng, where you can stop for a beer.

There’s no dress code but ample opportunity to adorn yourself and your bike with lights. For the seriousminded there are many cycling clubs that go on organised morning rides (ask your nearest bike shop). There is no better way to start your day.

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Momentum 94.7 race

Chris Kirchhoff, mediaclubsouthafrica.com

BEST EVENTS I love riding the well-organised Momentum 94.7 race in November (www.cyclechallenge.co.za). The route takes you on a 94.7km loop through the city and northern suburbs. It is the world’s second-largest timed cycle race, with 27 000 participants last year.

BEST SUNDAY ROUTES Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, off the N3 to Heidelberg (south-west of Joburg). The turnoff onto the R550 is about 30km from the city, and in all it’s about 50km to the gates of the park, with 15km and 70km cycling loops, plus opportunities for the family to walk, picnic or check out the wildlife. There are steep gradients, excellent for some hard hill training. The Cradle of Humankind to the north-west has a network of clearly demarcated cycle lanes that are popular with weekend cyclists. Set off from the Sterkfontein caves.

RENTING AND TOURS Cycology’s electric bikes can be rented by advance booking (www.cycology.biz, R150 p/h or R750 for a full day) and collected from Window, their pop-up store at 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark. They also offer weekend city rides (R500) on Saturdays and Sundays at 10:00, or you can plan a bespoke tour with a cycologist. In Soweto, Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers rents out bikes or take you on a guided tour of the historical sites and lets you experience township life, close up (www.sowetobackpackers.com). Hunter Cycling (70 Juta Steet, Braamfontein, www.huntercycling.com), has a pilot bike-share scheme, where you can drop in, pick up a bike and ride to Maboneng or Melville (drop-off points). In Alexandra, there’s Jeff Mulaudzi ‘s Alexandra Bicycle Tours (www.alexandratours.co.za, tel. +27 71 279 3654).

BEST SHOPS Hunter Cycling for the latest in cool commuter gear. Cajee’s Cycle Corner (www.cajees.com) has a network of cycle shops and give excellent advice. My favourite is Dunkeld Cycles (Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 341 0627, www.dunkeldcycles. co.za). Speak to Marc or one of his keen young helpers.

See our golf special feature at johannesburg.inyourpocket.com johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & Outdoors GYMS, FITNESS CENTRES The two major gym brands, which have numerous branches, are Virgin Active and Planet Fitness. Both charge R150 a day for non-members. Proof of identity is required.

PLANET FITNESS WANDERERS MEGACLUB Q21 North Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 327 0606, www.planetfitness.co.za. Open 04:00–22:00, Fri 04:00–21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:00–20:00. LDC VIRGIN ACTIVE OLD EDS Q11 9th Ave, Lower Houghton, tel. +27 11 483 1298, www. virginactive.co.za. Open: Mon-Thu 05:00–21:30, Fri 05:00– 21:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:00–20:00. LDC

PARKS

Joburg is a golfer’s paradise, with more golf courses – like the Glendower Golf Club above – in one city than probably anywhere else in the world.

Do not take valuables along or walk after dark. For a list of city parks see www.jhbcityparks.com.

WILD CITY

BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM This sprawling green oasis has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks or kicking around a soccer ball and a pretty terraced formal rose garden.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00.

JOHANNESBURG ZOO Walk on the wild side on more than 81 hectares.QJan Smuts Ave (entrance on Upper Park Dr), Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org.za. Open 08:30–17:30. Admission R58, children and pensioners R36. TULBK

DELTA ENVIRONMENTAL CENTRE One of the biggest green lungs in the city with stretches of grassland and woodland. The park houses an environmental centre and has a sensory trail for the sight-impaired.

QCnr Rd 3 and Craighall Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 888 4831, www.deltaenviro.org.za. Open 08:30–16:00.

LION PARK Newsweek voted it one of the top 100 tourist destinations in the world.QCnr Malibongwe Dr and R114 Rd, Honeydew, tel. +27 11 691 9905, www.lion-park.com. Open 09:00–21:00 Admission R270, children R170. TLK

JAMES AND ETHEL GREY PARK A large hilly park with a stream, and extraordinary views of the downtown skyline. Popular with dog walkers and kids on bikes.QCnr Westwood Ave and North St, Melrose.

MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE The Melville Koppies (‘small hill in Afrikaans’) is an archaeological treasure with artefacts from the Stone and Iron Ages. There are a number of guided walks and hikes offered monthly.QCnr Judith Rd and Orange Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org.za. Open 08:00– 19:00. Admission R40, children R10.

ZOO LAKE A premier green space where you can feed the ducks, set up a picnic, or eat at the child-friendly African-themed restaurant, Moyo.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. Open 10:00–21:00.

RUNNING CLUBS The Zoo Lake has a flat running path popular with walkers and runners, or join the free weekly street run that departs from the Nike shop at The Zone @ Rosebank on Wednesdays at 17:15. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS Hundreds of fascinating bird species and the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Blvd, cnr William Nicol and Witkoppen Rds, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Open Mon–Fri, Sun 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–18:00. Admission for adults and children over 10, R53; pensioners and children under 10, R30. TULBK

OUTDOORS WITH KIDS ACROBRANCH Test your skills and mettle by ziplining from tree to tree.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 78 438 7463, www. acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–15:00. Prices start at R80 for ages 3-6, R110 for age 7 to adults. Up to R190 depending on course. T GOLD REEF CITY The best rides and attractions for all ages.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open 09:30–17:00 during school holidays (June 28 – July 20), otherwise Wed–Sun 09:30– 17:00. Admission R165. TULBK May – August 2014

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City Basics BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. ATMs are widely available. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www.absa. co.za), First National Bank (FNB) (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www. standardbank.co.za).

VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs.

Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

The ’randela‘

Darren M. Smith

CLIMATE 24-HOUR CITY

D

Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close well before 22:00. Most restaurants, galleries and museums are closed on Mondays. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville and Greenside are traditionally latenight haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Car traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer stretching from November to March and milder temperatures setting in from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F).

Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Joburgers feel the cold quite intensely because homes and hospitality establishments generally are not designed with adequate insulation and winter weather in mind. Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry (see Where to Eat, Anyone for Drinks, Shopping and Nightlife).

CLIMATE AVERAGES

BANKING AND MONEY CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. All prices are rounded off to the nearest 5c.

56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

City Basics COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11.

Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones.

CELL PHONE NETWORKS Vodacom (www.vodacom. co.za), MTN (www.mtn.co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za), 8.ta Telkom (www.telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband (www.mybroadband.co.za), offers price comparisons on call and data packages. Check the website regularly because costs change frequently. All networks offer payas-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets and petrol stations.

RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

INTERNET ACCESS

More and more cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wireless. Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibre-optic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card.

MILKY WAY INTERNET CAFÉ Offer public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03, The Zone, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00.

MEDIA South Africa has a free press although controversial government attempts to pass a Protection of Information Bill could result in restrictions. It ranked 52nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2013 press freedom index. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. Try Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), Daily Maverick (www. dailymaverick.co.za), Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za) or Mail & Guardian (www. mg.co.za). Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9). SABC (www.sabc. co.za) is the public broadcaster, and e.TV and eNCA (www. etv.co.za and www.enca.com) are free-to-air channels. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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City Basics TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, city council workers, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople.

Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the minimum, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa and is subject to occasional shortages.

Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally.

LANGUAGES South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe.

EMERGENCIES Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock (see Directory).

SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

CRIME AND SAFETY

PLACES OF WORSHIP

Joburg has a poor reputation for safety. The police force (the SAPS) isn’t always as top-notch or as present as it needs to be, and the city’s Metro Police often seem more intent on issuing speeding fines than on bearing down on other dangerous driving habits, like flying through red traffic lights, not wearing safety belts and driving on sidewalks or in emergency lanes (a quirk of minibus taxi-drivers now emulated by impatient drivers). The truth about safety is a shifting reality.

A lot of opportunistic crime takes place in dense city and suburban neighbourhoods, where homes are targeted.

You’ll notice the ubiquitous guard huts, electric fencing and private-security patrol cars in the wealthier northern suburbs, and the razor wire in less affluent areas. Our advice is to be aware rather than paranoid. As in any other modern metropolis, you need to use your head, know where you’re going, and not flash your cash or valuables around.

Consult a local to get a head’s up, but walk away if they’re the type to tell you that the city is a no-go area – you have just chosen the wrong local. When you plan your first walk around the inner-city, consider a tour with one of the many knowledgeable guides who offer them, or a City Sightseeing Red Bus hop-on, hop-off tour to get the lay of the land (see Tours and Getting Around).

Christians are in the majority in South Africa, but there is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity. Joburg has many places of worship and spiritual sites. Some are made of bricks and mortar while others are public spaces that on weekends are commissioned as ‘houses’ of worship. In suburbs like Yeoville and Hillbrow you can follow the sounds of the charismatic preachers from Nigeria and Cameroon, who set up in backyards and under makeshift tarpaulins.

On weekends many public parks are commandeered by followers of the Zion Christian Church (ZCC), one of the largest in Southern Africa. You will see groups of people dressed in blue-and-white, green-and-white or khaki suits, a trademark silver star identifying their allegiance to the church. The Shembe Church also commands millions of followers. Atop Yeoville Ridge different preachers mark out territory for worship as this is the highest green space in the inner city, believed to bring followers closer to their god.

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

City Basics POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC), a liberation movement which became a political party after fighting against apartheid and for a non-racial democracy. The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament. The current president is Jacob Zuma.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS South Africa has 12 public holidays. No matter how solemn their intention, they are regarded by most as shoppingextravaganza days. Most big malls are open on all public holidays (see Shopping). Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

January 1 March 21 April 18 April 21 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly. See www.southafrica.info/ travel/advice/disabled.htm.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. You might find that some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’ as Zimbabwe’s capital falls in the same time zone. There is no daylight saving time.

LOCAL PRICES Cappuccino R18 Cigarettes (pack of 20) R35 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Gautrain: O.R. Tambo to Sandton R125 Litre of petrol R13 Local beer (in a bar) R20 Mineral water (500ml) R8 Therapeutic massage (1 hour) R400 facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

EMERGENCY NUMBERS POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services (see Directory).

SAFETY TIPS If you’re staying in a hotel, lock up valuables in the room or hotel safe When driving, always keep valuables in the boot of the car rather than on the passenger seat. Keep the windows up and the doors locked Don’t leave valuable items visible in a parked car Don’t stroll down a street talking on your cellphone Pay attention to what is going on around you Don’t show off expensive jewellery, watches or cameras Never accept help from strangers at an ATM Opt for using an ATM inside a bank or mall Areas such as Alexandra, Hillbrow, Yeoville and Joubert Park should only be visited with a tour guide

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and one of the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius May – August 2014

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Directory TRANSPORT AND AIRPORTS Lanseria Airport Located approximately 30km north-west of Sandton it serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, as well as local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www. lanseria. co.za.

O.R. Tambo International Airport O.R. Tambo lies 30km east of Sandton. The airport is spacious, modern and easy to get around. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B – which merge after you have passed through the security checkpoints. South African Airways flights depart from Terminal B. The airport has a reputation for baggage handlers rifling through luggage, so make sure your bags are safely locked or wrapped. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), 086 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.

Mr Parking This valet service beats high prices for airport parking. Bookings must be made online in advance, but last-minute bookings can be made by cellphone. A driver meets you at the airport, parks your car a few kilometres away, and returns it to the domestic terminal all cleaned up upon your arrival.QTel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za. Office hours are 08:00–16:00 but the service operates 24/7.

AIRLINES Travelstart An online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for South Africa’s major airlines and low-cost carriers.QTel. 0861 878 278 or +27 21 468 4300, www.travelstart.co.za. Speak to a consultant 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. British Airways BA (operated by Comair) flies between Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth.QTel. +27 11 441 8600, www.britishairways.com.

Kulula Air A no-frills airline operating between major cities in South and Southern Africa.QTel. 0861 585 852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com.

Mango This SAA-owned budget airline flies from both Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International airports to Cape Town, Durban, George and Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar. Flights can also be booked at supermarket chain Shoprite Checkers (see www.shoprite.co.za).QTel. 0861 001 234, +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango.com. W SAA The national carrier serves domestic and international routes.QTel. 0861 358 722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa.com. Open 06:00–22:00.

SHUTTLES AND INTERCITY BUSES Baz Bus A hop-on, hop-off bus service mostly for backpackers that travels between Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town and Port Elizabeth with stops along the way. There are day-pass options and wildlife safari and adventure packages that include Chobe National Park in northern Botswana and the mighty Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe– Zambia border.QTel. 0861 229 287 or +27 21 422 5202, www.bazbus.com. W Citybug A daily shuttle service between provinces, includ60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ing Mpumalanga, Gauteng, Free State and KwaZulu-Natal.

QTel. 0861 334 433, www.citybug.co.za.

City to City Travels to cities in all nine provinces. Tickets can be bought from Computicket (www.online.computicket. com) or supermarket chain Shoprite Checkers (see www. shoprite.co.za to locate a nearby store).QTel. 0861 589 282, www.citytocity.co.za.

Greyhound Luxury coach travel between major cities and many smaller towns in all provinces. Telephone bookings can be made at any time. For some strange reason, calls to the cell phone number are charged at R2.85 per minute.

QTel. +27 11 611 8000 or +27 83 915 9000, www.greyhound.co.za. Open 24/7.

Translux A modern, luxury bus service travelling to all South Africa provinces with multiple destinations in many of them. Tickets can be purchased at supermarket chains Pick n Pay (www.picknpay.co.za) and Shoprite Checkers (www.shoprite.co.za), as well as from ticketing agent Computicket (http://online.computicket.com).QTel. 0861 589 282 or +27 11 773 8056, www.translux.co.za.

MEDICAL CARE AND PHARMACIES Emergency Doctor and Dentist This practice offers emergency medical and dental care. Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366. It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

Open 24/7.

Mays Chemist A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

Morningside Dispensary An after-hours pharmacy.QThe Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588, scripts@morningsidedispensary. co.za. Open Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 09:00–21:00.

Netcare Milpark Hospital A level 1 trauma centre caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. Open 24/7.

Netcare Sunninghill Hospital Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7.

The Smile Factory For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786.QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

SHOPPING – 24-HOUR CITY BASIC SUPPLIES Caltex Petrol Station Cnr 4th St and 17th Ave, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 3233. Pick ‘n Pay Express BP Petrol Station Melrose Arch, 116 Corlett Dr, Birnam, tel. +27 11 786 8644. Engen Petrol Station 270 Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 0935. Engen Oxford Convenience Centre 120 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 2448/9. This branch has a Woolworths grocery store.

PIZZA Andiccio 24 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603.

Closes 02:00 most weekday nights and open 24 hours at weekends. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Directory FAST FOOD McDonald’s, 157 Rivonia Rd, cnr Grayston Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 0712. Drive-thru open 24 hours.

Restaurant 05:00–23:00.

SUPERMARKETS Ubiquitous supermarket brands include Pick n Pay hypermarkets which have a flasghip store on William Nicol Dr, the upmarket neighbourhood convenience-store chain Woolworths, the Spar franchise and Shoprite Checkers, which also houses Computicket events-ticket kiosks.

Checkers Hyper Huge hypermarket branch with bakery, deli counters, ticket services and financial services.

QSandton City, Alice Lane, Sandton, Tel. +27 11 895 1860, www.checkers.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00, Sat–Sun 09:00–18:00.

Pick n Pay on Nicol Gigantic supermarket with pharmacy, liqueur, financial services, Vida coffee shop and a great sushi counter called Thyme.QCnr Republic Rd and William Nicol Dr, Sandton, Tel. +27 11 998 3300,www.picknpay. co.za. Open 08:00–20:00, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 08:00– 16:00.

Spar Super A large branch with deli counters and rotisserie chicken.Q71 Grant Ave, Norwood, Tel. 011 728 8951, www. Spar.co.za. Open 09:00–18:30, Sat 09:00–17:00.

Closed Sun. TECHNOLOGY REPAIRS Gienius Repairs and servicing of all major phone brands as well as Apple devices. A courier can be booked for collection and delivery of devices. Stores also at Eastgate Mall (+27 11 616 0772) and East Rand Mall (+27 11 826 4957).

QShop C8, Hobart Grove Shopping Centre, cnr Hobart and Grosvenor Rds, Bryanston, tel. 0861 188 888, www. gienius.co.za. iFix Repair of all Apple and Samsung devices. Get a quote online.QTel. +27 11 684 1688, www.ifix.co.za.

POSTAGE AND PRINTING Foto First Shop U7, The Rosebank Mews, 16 Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4056, www.fotofirst.co.za.

Jetline Print on Demand Shop UG 03/4, Cradock Sq, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 327 3324, www.jetline. co.za.

Kodak Express Shop L65, Sandton City Shopping Centre, cnr Rivonia Rd and Sandton Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 7754, www.kodakexpress.com.

Postnet With branches in Killarney, Sandton, Illovo, Rosebank and other centres, Postnet specialises in copying, printing and courier and postal services.Q22 Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 442 4720, www.postnet.co.za.

EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES Most countries are represented by embassies in South Africa, generally located in Pretoria, a 45-minute drive from Joburg. Consulates of many countries can be found in Joburg.

Botswana Consulate 2nd Floor, Future Bank Building, 122 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 3748.

China Consulate 25 Cleveland Rd, Sandhurst, Sandton, tel. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

+27 11 685 7540.

France Consulate 3rd Floor Standard Bank Building, 191 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 778 56 00, www. consulfrance-jhb.org.

Germany Embassy 180 Blackwood St, Arcadia, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 427 8900, www.southafrica.diplo.de.

Italy Consulate 37 1st Ave (cnr 2nd St), Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 728 1392/3, www.consjohannesburg.esteri.it.

Kenya Embassy 302 Brooks St, Menlo Park, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 362 2249, www.kenya.org.za.

Mauritius Embassy 1163 Pretorius St, Hatfield, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 342 1283/4, www.gov.mu.

Mozambique Consulate 131 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 336 1819/21, www.embamoc.co.za.

Namibia High Commission 197 Blackwood St, Arcadia, Pretoria tel. +27 12 481 9100, www.namibia.org.za.

The Netherlands Embassy 210 Queen Wilhemina Ave (cnr Muckleneuk St), Nieuw Muckleneuk, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 425 4500, southafrica.nlembassy.org.

Nigeria High Commission 971 Francis Baard St, Arcadia, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 342 0805, southafrica.nlembassy.org.

UK High Commission 255 Hill St, Arcadia, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 421 7500, www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-high-commission-pretoria.

US Consulate 1 Sandton Dr (Opposite Sandton City), Sandton, tel. +27 11 290 3000, southafrica.usembassy.gov.

Zimbabwe Consulate 13A Boeing Rd, Bedfordview, Tel. +27 11 838 2156/7/8.

REAL ESTATE The property24.com website is a very useful place to view commercial and residential properties to buy or rent from dozens of different real estate agents. Other major agents in the city include: Mafadi Investments Residential, commercial and retail property rental and sales in the Joburg City Centre and surrounding area. Involved in the redevelopment of downtown residential buildings and neighbourhoods and property management for buy-to-let properties.QThe Main Change, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 592 0513, www.mafadi.co.za.

Pam Golding One of the country’s biggest agents dealing in upmarket long-term and short-term residential and commercial property rental and sales.QNumerous offices, www.pamgolding.co.za.

CO-WORKING/HOTDESKING Open A collaborative community workspace for creatives and professionals complete with gourmet coffee and an astroturf mini-put-put course.Q4th Floor, The Main Change, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 10 200 9000, www.theopen.co.za.

The Common Room Large co-working space set in a sunny house in the popular Parkhurst suburb. Small desks with access to printing and high-speed internet are available for rent in many flexible packages starting from five days per month with access to a fully equipped kitchen and garden.Q49 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 463 3288, www.the-common-room.co.za.

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Joburg districts CITY CENTRE (see map on pages 64–65) Locals call it the ‘inner city’, ‘town’ or ‘CBD’ . It is the victim of a poor reputation but still holds many Joburg secrets. While its residential life has grown immensely, most of its offerings are best enjoyed in daylight: a rich collection of public art; the Ethiopian district; the Fashion Kapitol; the historic pedestrianised Main Street, rich in mining history; Africa’s tallest building, the Carlton Centre, with its panoramic views; traditional medicine markets; and the Rand Club.

See Tours for the best ways to experience the city.

A summer storm brews over Nelson Mandela Bridge

Joburg is a city where extreme wealth and dire poverty coexist in many neighbourhoods, but the city of today is also more integrated than it has ever been. While a black middle class is emerging, the process of recovering from years of oppression and division is nowhere near complete.

Twenty years after embracing democracy, Joburg is still trying to define the shape of its future, and there are many bright spots on the map already. New neighbourhoods are springing up in formerly bland or deserted districts, and there is always something shiny to look at. The districts highlighted here all have a distinctive feel and something unique to offer. For the top attractions, read What to See. ALEXANDRA The township of Alex may be a historical anomaly but it is also home to thousands of people and expresses the city’s diversity and income gap in a few square kilometres. Culturally in Soweto’s shadow, Alex is starting to wake up to its potential as a tourist destination. To visit the area it is best to arrange a tour (see Sport & Outdoors).

BRAAMFONTEIN Joined to Newtown by the Nelson Mandela Bridge, hip ‘Braamies’ is home to excellent museums, the Joburg Theatre, bars, restaurants, the Neighbourgoods Saturday Market, galleries, fashion stores and Wits University. No visit is complete without a stop at one of this neighbourhood’s bars and a visit to the inspiring Constitution Hill.

BRYANSTON AND FOURWAYS Here suburban life amid security suburbs, outdoor-lifestyle centres and equestrian estates is punctuated by myriad malls. For nightlife, Montecasino is a hugely popular casino and theatre complex. It is home to restaurants galore, a comedy club and hosts the city’s movie premieres.

CHINATOWNS O The city’s original Chinatown along Commissioner Street has some great restaurants as well as the Sui Hing Hong Supermarket, a must-see store selling everything from sex toys to firecrackers. Its brasher rival is along Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, a world in a few blocks.

62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

HYDE PARK Hyde Park is one of the most expensive suburbs. Its heart is Hyde Park Corner, the city’s swankiest shopping centre filled with international designer stores, ladies who lunch, and the rest of the cappuccino-sipping, Porsche Cayenne four-wheel-drive-owning, groomed and manicured Joburg set. Practise not gasping at R15 000 price tags for a dress and you’ll fit in just fine.

LINDEN What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity during the apartheid years and is now being reinvented as one of the city’s coolest suburbs. Speak to any shopowner on the distinctive main street and they’ll proudly tell you that Made in Linden is the most covetable label around.

MABONENG The work of a single property development company, this inner-city district (officially called City and Suburban) has been converted from industrial properties to a happening lifestyle playground. Street art is a big feature here, along with an eclectic selection of shops and restaurants. The pioneer development is Arts on Main where one of South Africa’s most famous artists, William Kentridge, has his studio.

It’s also home to the Sunday Market on Main and MOAD (the Museum of African Design).

MILPARK, MELVILLE AND AUCKLAND PARK Together with Braamfontein, this is the city’s student capital. Auckland Park is home to the University of Johannesburg campus while the adjoining suburb of Milpark hosts a great lifestyle hub filled with local designer stores and restaurants at 44 Stanley Avenue. Bohemian Melville is a celebrated nightspot and is forever trying to shake off its reputation for trays of shooters and slightly grungy people and venues. If you’re looking for a good time, though, it may just be the place you have in mind.

NEWTOWN Joburg’s original cultural precinct is a vast heritage site incorporating the historic Market Theatre, Museum Africa, the impressively renovated Turbine Hall and the immense Mary Fitzgerald Square. It is a bit down at heel but a new shopping and lifestyle development, Newtown Junction, is on the way. The construction of this complex has created space for an incredible collection of graffiti, which is worth seeing (see Tours). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg districts N1

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isulu Rd

MELVILLE AUCKLAND PARK 44 STANLEY AVE

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NEW CHINATOWN PARKTOWN BRAAMFONTEIN

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ani Rd Golden Highway

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OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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Cradle of Humankind (28km) – NW Lanseria (47km) – NW Pretoria (59km) – NE Sun City (128km) – NW Kruger Park (495km) – E Durban (568km) – SE Cape Town (1,397km) – SW

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JOBURG DISTRICTS MAP

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joburg-map 21Apr.indd ROSEBANK, ILLOVO 1AND MELROSE Rosebank is a business and shopping hub housing a series of malls integrated into a vast retail space, including the Rosebank Mall, which is undergoing a huge renovation.

With hundreds of shops, restaurants, cinemas and an African craft market, it is a popular destination. Nearby is Illovo, a restaurant district, and Melrose Arch, a favourite of fans of sanitised street life and designer-label shopping.

SANDTON What was once vast tracts of farmland now houses the headquarters of many of the country’s top companies, the Sandton Convention Centre as well as the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Sandton is not friendly to pedestrians or wallets but is easily accessed by the Gautrain as well as public and private transport. It is Africa’s shopping capital, with Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square its crown jewels. It also houses many big-name international hotels.

SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township was once home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. But it’s not only history that makes this vast neighbourhood tick. With many renovation projects now completed and an upgraded transport network linking it to the city centre, Soweto is constructing a contemporary identity with the help of a new generation who wants to offer the world everything – from anti-apartheid landmarks like Vilakazi Street and the Hector Pieterson Museum to bungee-jumping and bird-watching. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

THE PARKS AND GREENSIDE2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM The Parks include the wealthy areas of Parkview, Parkwood, Parktown North and Parkhurst. Throw in the Joburg Zoo, Zoo Lake and the nearby Emmarentia Dam and you have some of the city’s major public attractions amid pretty, tree-lined suburban streets. Parkview has a village ambience, while in Parkhurst you are likely to spot a Ferrari or two parked outside the many restaurants. Life in Parktown North is dominated by eateries, while Parkwood has many of the city’s best art galleries along Jan Smuts Avenue.

Greenside is a popular nightlife strip.

FORDSBURG With vibrant city streets, a weekend night market, spice shops, traditional sweetmeat stores and buzzing street life, Fordsburg is the heart of Joburg’s Indian and Pakistani communities.

The Oriental Plaza with 360 stores is its shopping hub, while the streets of Fordsburg offer many delicious surprises by day or night. Head to Fordsburg delights for our special feature on this neigbourhood, and the best spots in which to experience Indian Joburg.

May – August 2014

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CITY CENTRE MAP

Street index 1st St (Troyeville) H-3 2nd St (Troyeville) H-3 3rd St (Troyeville) H-3 4th St (Troyeville) H-3 5th St (Troyeville) H-3 6th St (Troyeville) H-3 7th St (Troyeville) G-3 8th St (Troyeville) G-3/4 9th St G-4 A Albert St D/E/F/G-5 Albertina Sisulu Rd 45 Albrecht St G-4/5 Alexander St B-5 Ameshoff St C-2 Anderson St 5 Andries St H-4 Angle St G-4 Auret St G-4/5 B Barney Simon St B-4 Beacon St G-4 Beaufort St H-4 Beit St F/G-3 Bertha St C-2/3 Betrams St H-2/3 Betty St G-4/5 Biccard St C-2/3 Bree St 4 Buxton St F-3/4 C Carr St A/B/C-4 Central Rd A-4/5 Charles St F-4 Charlton Terrace G-2 Clare Rd A-5 Clarence St H-4 Commercial Rd A-5 Commissioner St 54 Cornelius St E-5 Currey St G-3 D Davies St F-3/4 Dawe St H-4 De Beer St C-2/3 De Korte St B/C/D-2/3 De Villiers St D-3 Delvers St E-5

Diagonal St C-4/5 Dolly Rathebe Rd A-4 Dora St G-2/3 Droste Crescent H-6 Durban St E/F/G-5 E Edith Cavell St E-4 Eendracht St B-2/3 Eloff St D-3/4/5 Empire Rd A/B/C/D-1 End St F-3/4/5 Enoch Sontonga Ave A-2 Erin St H-2/3 Error St G-3 F Fawcus St G/H-5 Ferreira St C-5 Fitzroy St H-3 Ford St H-5 Fountain Rd A-5 Fox St 54 Frederick St D/E-5 G Gerard Sekoto St C-4/5 Godfrey St D-6 Gordon Terrace G-2 Goud St F-4/5 Gous St H-4 Greene St F-4/5 Gus St H-4/5 Gwigwi Mrwebi St A/B/C-4 H Hall St C-5 Hanau St H-5 Hans St H-4/5 Harries St E-5 Harrison St D-3/4/5 Heidelberg St E/F-6 Henri St B-2/3 Henry Nxumalo St B-4 High Rd A-4 High St A-5 Hoofd St C/D-2 Hook St D-2/3 Hospital St D-2 Huber St B-5 J Jan Smuts Ave B-1/2

Janie St H-4/5 Jeppe St 4 John Page Drv H-4/5 Jorrissen St B-2 Joubert St D-1/2 Jules St G/H-5 Juta St B/C/D-2/3 K Karl St H-4/5 Kay St D-6 Kerk St C/D/E/F-4 Kort St C-5 Kotze St D/E-2 Kruger Rd G-4/5 Kruis St E-4/5 L Leyds St C/D-3 Lilian Rd A-4/5 Loveday St D Lower Page St G-4 Lower Railway St G-3/4 Lower Ross St G-4 M Macintyre St H-5/4 Maclaren St C-5 Madison St H-4/5 Mahlathini St A/B-4 Main St 5 Main Reef Rd A/B-5 Margaret Mcingana St C-5 Maritzburg St G-4/5 Marshall St 5 May Rd A-5 Melle St C-1/2/3 Melrose St E-5 Mint Rd A-4/5 Miriam Makeba St C-4/5 Mooi St F-4/5 Mosely St F-4 N Nelson Mandela Bridge C-3 Noord St D/E-3 Ntemi Piiso St C/D-4/5 Nugget St F-3/4/5 O Overbeek St H-4 P Park St G/H-4/5

WHERE TO FIND JOHANNESBURG IN YOUR POCKET On sale at these and other stores: BOOKDEALERS 12 7th St, Melville, +27 11 726 4054 LOVE BOOKS BAMBOO cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408 RAD GALLERY (Warm & Glad) 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455 DAVID KRUT BOOKSTORE 151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel.

27 11 880 5646.

1886 JOBURG 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel +27 11 469 3770.

See our website for the full list.

We can also be found at these hotels and guest houses:  African Pride Melrose Arch  Backpackers Ritz  Balalaika Hotel  Bannister Hotel  Chateau De Carolle  Clico Boutique Hotel  Crowne Plaza The Rosebank  Curiocity Backpackers  Devonshire Hotel  Easy Hotel  Fairlawns Boutique Hotel  FNB Conference Centre  Garden Court Milpark  Hyatt Regency  InterContinental O.R. Tambo  InterContinental Sandton Towers  Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers

66 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

 Liz at Lancaster Guesthouse  Faircity Mapungubwe  The Maslow Hotel  Motel MiPiChi  The Nicol  Palazzo Montecasino  Peech Hotel  Protea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch  Protea Hotel Parktonian  Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel  Radisson Blu Hotel  Sandton Sun Hotel  Satyagraha House  Southern Sun Montecasino  Soweto Hotel  Ten 2nd Avenue Houghton  Ten Bompas  The Winston  Twelve Decades

Phillip St F-4/5 Pioneer Rd A-5 Polly St E-4/5 President St B/C/D/E/F-4 Pretoria St H-3 Princes St H-3 Pritchard St C/D/E/F-4 Q Queen Elizabeth Bridge C-3 Quinn St B-4/5 R Rissik St D S Salisbury St E-5 Sam Hancock St D-1 Saratoga Ave F-2 Sauer St C-4/5 School St F-6 Shaft St B-5 Siemert St F-3/4/5 Simmonds St C-2/3 and D-4/5 Sivewright Ave G-3 and F-4 Smal St E-5 Smit St B/C/D-3 and E-2 South Park Ln G-3 Staib St G-3/4 Station St B-2/3 Stiemens St C-2 T Thorpe St D-6 Troye St E-4/5 U Upper Railway G-3/4 Upper Ross Rd G-3 V Van Beek St G-3/4 Verwey St G-4 Village Rd D-6 Von Brandis St D-4 and E-5 Von Weilligh St E-4/5 Voorhout St G-4 and H-3 W Wemmer Jubilee E-6 Western Blvd A-6 Wilhelmina St H-3/4 Wolmarans St C/D/E-3 Y Yard Rd B-1/2

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