Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 3, Sep 2014-Jan 2015 by Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg September 2014 – January 2015

Sandton surprise

Unexpected treasures in the financial district

Party season

The ultimate guide to all the best events

N°3 - R35 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents Maps Neighbourhoods 15 Sandton 31 Soweto 48 City Centre 64

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 What to see and do

Neighbourhoods

Find your way around

Arriving & Getting Around

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

Coming up

Things to look forward to

Street index

All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65

Rooms to suit all budgets

Where to eat

Restaurants, cafés and coffee shops

Surprising Sandton

Getting the best out of the other city centre

Authentic Alexandra

36 Where Sowetans go for a real township experience

Nightlife

Jazz and other nocturnal delights

Sightseeing Best walking tours City of Gold Gandhi’s Joburg and Mandela sites 10 inner-city stops The gods of Midrand Getting the most out of Soweto

42 42 43 44 46 47 48

Shopping

How to spend your money

Beauty Black Book

WHERE TO FIND US

Johannesburg In Your Pocket can be found at hotels, guest houses, selected book stores and in airport lounges. Go to www.johannesburg.inyourpocket. com for the full list.

Family-friendly entertainment

Sport & Outdoors

Life in the parks, swimming and running

Joburg basics Essential information for your stay

Mark Straw

A little help to look your best

Joburg with kids

Blooming city

EDITOR’S NOTE The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

We welcome your comments. Share your views and city secrets with us at www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

Foreword Congratulations! You are in Joburg at the most spectacular time of the year. Spring and summer mean our events lineup is jampacked (follow us online for the latest updates), the jacaranda blooms create their exquisite purple haze, and the afternoon skies darken without warning for brief but intense thundershowers. That’s Joburg in a nutshell, full of colour and unexpected encounters. In this, our third issue, we spotlight Sandton and uncover some pleasant surprises in this often maligned corporate neighbourhood. We also explore its neighbour, Alexandra, a gloss-less contrast and in some ways a township frozen in pre-democracy time. Then we give you the lowdown on Jozi as the capital of jazz, and on the best places to eat while enjoying breathtaking views of the city. We are grateful for the support of Joburg Tourism in this issue – what a perfect partnership. Johannesburg In Your Pocket is an insider’s guide to the city and, like the place, we hope it will reveal many shiny gems. Fold it up, tuck it in your pocket and enjoy your stay!

Publisher E S S E N TI A L IYP City Guides (Pty) C I Ltd, T Y Postnet G U I Suite D E S#108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa, tel. +27 82 572 3553. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com. Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researchers Melissa Mtwisha and Sindi Vilakazi Contributors Carrie Adams, Nechama Brodie @Brodiegal, Heather Mason @2Summers, Tanya Kovarsky @TanyaKovarsky, Bongani Madondo @bonganimadondo, Jacqui Msiza and Nikki Temkin @NikkiTemkin Photography © Alessio La Ruffa @alessiolr, Heather Mason @2Summers, Mark Straw @JHBCultureClub, Liz Delmont @lizatlancaster, Darren Smith @DazMSmith, and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps Copyright In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER STORY

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553, to book your advert and your next social-media campaign.

Our cover image was generously shot by Charles Johnstone of Charles Johnstone Photography South Africa (charlesjohnstone@mweb. co.za) at Sir James van der Merwe bar in Kramerville, Sandton. Tucked away amid the cranes and towering concrete-and-glass mega-blocks are delightful places like SJVM, where you can find refuge on a Wednesday evening, while enjoying a superb view of the skyline. See our Sandton feature to find out what else we discovered.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket. Print run 10 000 copies, published February, May and September. ISSN 2311-3944

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4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide – to Vilnius in Lithuania – so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean – our first in the Western Hemisphere – has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Highlights NEW JOBURG TITLES Three new Joburg titles reveal the city’s many faces, from its history as a gold-mining town to its extremes as a haven for wealth and privilege and a magnet for people desperately in search of a livelihood. THE JOBURG BOOK This is the essential guide to the history of the city, edited by Nechama Brodie. First published in 2008, this engaging exploration of the city’s origins, its communities and neighbourhoods has been thoroughly updated. With a deft touch Brodie records recent changes, be they good (the discovery of a new species of Australopithecus and new and thriving inner-city neighbourhoods), bad or ugly (the neglect of key heritage buildings) (Pan Macmillan, R389). WAKE UP, THIS IS JOBURG In the first of a series of 10 slim volumes, photographer Mark Lewis and writer Tanya Zack reveal the stories of people who inhabit the city’s murky urban spaces. The first book, S’kop (32 pages, named after the traditional meal of boiled sheep or cow’s head), delves into the existence of an informal ‘butchery’. Lewis’s photographs create a strange beauty from its decay and gore (Fourthwall Books, www.fourthwallbooks.com, R160). SANDTON PLACES Gerald Garner, Heather Mason and Brian Unsted’s extensive guide is handy for exploring the northern suburbs and paints them in the most flattering light. It follows the money to Sandton, the fast-growing business capital and the location of most big-name hotels. A good travel companion with a foldout map and lots of practical info, its focus is on what to do, where to eat and how to entertain yourself (Double G Media, R320).

JOBURG WORDS Join us on September 24 at 11:30 at ParkWords (Parkview Literary Festival, along Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 82 820 8437, www.parkview.org.za) for a talk called ‘Johannesburg: The City of Gold Then and Now’ with writers Nechama Brodie and Tanya Zack. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com to put your advert here and reach visitors at more than 60 Joburg accommodation establishments and selected airport lounges Our social-media reach is growing by the day. Find us on: facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket @JohannesburgIYP September 2014 – January 2015

What’s On CONCERTS Monthly Last Fri 19:00

Sophiatown Jazz Encounters. Intimate jazz concert. Sophiatown Heritage Centre

Last Sun 10:00–19:00

Park Acoustics. Live music festival with popular local bands. Pretoria Voortrekker Monument, www.parkacoustics.co.za

September Sat 13

Joburg Day Festival. Mi Casa, Mafikizolo, Jeremy Loops. Crocodile Creek Polo Club, Lanseria, www.highveld.co.za

Sun 14

Parlotones. Pretoria Botanical Gardens, www.dogreatthings.co.za

Fri 19

The Fray. Coca-Cola Dome

Sun 21

Peace Starts Festival. Free festival with local bands in celebration of World Peace Day. Heia Safari Ranch, Muldersdrift, www.peacestarts.co.za

Fri 26–Sun 28

Tribe One Festival. 350 live acts in Cullinan, including headliners Macklemore and Nicki Minaj, www.tribeonefestival.com

Sun 28

Lira. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, www.dogreatthings.co.za

October Sat 4

Spring Fiesta. House music festival. Wild Waters, Boksburg, www.springfiesta.co.za

Fri 24–Sun 26

Suzi Quatro. Theatre of Marcellus, Emperor’s Palace

Wed 22–Sun 26

Johnny Clegg Live and Unplugged. Joburg Theatre

Sat 25

Colbert Harley Mukwevho. Bassline

November Sat 1

One Night in Africa. Ladysmith Black Mambazo and Oliver Mtukudzi. Big Top Arena, Carnival City

Fri 21

30 Seconds to Mars. Coca-Cola Dome

Fri 21

C.A.B. (Canonge-Adriano-Bassy). Afro, Caribbean and Brazilian jazz. The Orbit

Sat 22–Sun 23

John Legend. Also 19.11. Coca-Cola Dome

Fri 28

Carols by Candlelight. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, www.dogreatthings.co.za

Fri 29

Carols by Candlelight. Pretoria National Botanical Gardens, www.dogreatthings.co.za

Fri 29

Kings of Chaos. Featuring Steven Tyler. Sun City Superbowl, www.suninternational.com/SUN-CITY

Fri 29

Space Ibiza on Tour. The Sands, Sandton, www.spaceibiza.co.za

December–February Sat 6 Dec

The Lumineers. Emmarentia Dam

Thu 22 Jan–Sun 15 Feb

The Greatest Love of All: The Whitney Houston Show. A musical tribute. Joburg Theatre

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Johnny Clegg

CONCERTS Joburg has a lively and exciting music scene and will definitely satisfy fans of jazz. To read more about jazz in Joburg, see Nightlife. 25.09 THURSDAY – 27.09 SATURDAY JOY OF JAZZ Three days and four stages – this is a great celebration of all things jazz with performances by a host of major local and international acts, including Billy Ocean, Dianne Reeves, Carlo Mombelli, Omar Sosa and Gregory Porter. QSandton Convention Centre, www.joyofjazz.co.za. Tickets R750 per day. 03.10 FRIDAY VODACOM IN THE CITY One of the city’s most exciting live music events, this downtown festival consistently attracts top-drawer acts. This year the lineup is led by New York psychedelic synth-pop band MGMT, who are joined by drum and bass maestros Rudimental and British electro-folk band Crystal Fighters.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, www.inthecityjhb.co.za. Tickets from R450. 30.11 SUNDAY JOHNNY CLEGG Pack a picnic and enjoy a concert by world music legend and South Africa’s very own ‘white Zulu’ at this open-air event in the gorgeous botanical gardens.QWalter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, www.realsa.co.za. Tickets R180. 13.12 SATURDAY FOO FIGHTERS One of the leading bands of the late 1990s, they managed to stay relevant throughout the post-grunge 2000s and with everything ‘90s back in fashion once again they’ve chosen the perfect time to tour the world. They are supported by British post-punk rockers Kaiser Chiefs who are named after the Soweto football team.QFNB Stadium, www.bigconcerts.co.za. Tickets from R350.

See Venues table for address information and contact details. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On THEATRE AND DANCE

EDITOR’S PICK

UNTIL 27.09 SUNDAY CONSTELLATIONS A playful and moving romantic tale by British playwright Nick Payne, blending ‘the actual and the imaginable’. QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets R150. 08.09 MONDAY – 27.09 SATURDAY BASH A staging of Neil LaBute’s dark and disturbing collection of three one-act plays.QAuto & General Theatre on The Square. Tickets from R140. 12.09 FRIDAY – 28.09 SUNDAY LA BAYADÈRE This famous saga of love, betrayal and revenge in ancient India once again is performed on the SA stage by Joburg Ballet.QC-2, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R400. 19.09 FRIDAY – 27.09 SATURDAY THE NUTCRACKER RE-IMAGINED Joburg Ballet gives this timeless classic a uniquely South African spin, with hot African locations replacing the snowy European scenes.QC-2, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R200–R500. 30.09 TUESDAY – 19.10 SUNDAY MARIKANA THE MUSICAL The struggles and aspirations of striking miners and their deadly confrontation with the police are given a musical treatment.QSA State Theatre. Tickets R40–R80.

02.10 THURSDAY – 05.10 SUNDAY ABSA JOBURG CITY FESTIVAL 2014 This exciting festival is now in its second year and includes major concerts, film screenings, exhibitions, culinary events, club nights, theatre and much more in various locations across the inner-city. Highlights of the four-day festival are a culinary and music night for the opening of the city’s latest trendy food and shopping destination, The Sheds@Fox 1 in Ferreirasdorp; an unplugged performance by Johnny Clegg at the University of the Witwatersrand in Braamfontein; a Sunday afternoon of blues on the glorious Randlords rooftop; and the first inner-city Springboks ‘Boktown’ fan park at Absa Square. Rea Vaya and Gautrain are running extended schedules for the festival, especially on Saturday, October 4 when the Gautrain runs until midnight as part of Gauteng’s Big Night Out.QCity Centre (various venues), www.joburgcityfest.co.za.

01.10 WEDNESDAY – 26.10 SUNDAY ADAPT OR FLY Much-loved political satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys serves up intelligent, incisive and bitingly funny political satire.QB-4, Market Theatre. Tickets R83. 01.10 WEDNESDAY – 09.11 SUNDAY THE VERTICAL HOUR A thought-provoking work addressing the tension between public and private lives as a journalist reconsiders her political views on the 2003 invasion of Iraq.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets R150. 03.10 FRIDAY – 18.10 SATURDAY BRAZ DOS SANTOS’ BRAZOUKA A rags-to-riches tale told though the medium of dance with typically passionate and flamboyant Afro-Brazilian rhythm and flare.QC-2, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R180– R350. 07.10 TUESDAY – 26.10 SUNDAY HAVE YOU SEEN ZANDILE? Gcina Mhlophe’s coming-of-age story opens an illuminating window onto 1960s South Africa and its issues of white dominance, rural hardship and black female repression. QB-4, Market Theatre. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

What’s On THEATRE HIGHLIGHT 22.10 WEDNESDAY – 30.11 SUNDAY WAR HORSE A powerful and imaginative drama set on the battlefields of the first world war, based on the children’s novel by Michael Morpurgo. South Africa’s Handspring Puppet Company brings breathing, galloping, fullscale horses to this thrilling production by London’s National Theatre, which has already captured the hearts of five million theatre-goers. Utterly convincing and compelling, this magical production is a must-see. QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R150–R450.

10.10 FRIDAY – 12.10 SUNDAY SIMPLY BROADWAY A trip down memory lane with performances of famous songs from hit shows such as Wicked, Chicago and Les Miserables.QC-2, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R130. 16.10 THURSDAY – 26.10 SUNDAY WOMEN’S THEATRE FESTIVAL An exciting lineup from five up-and-coming female directors.QOlive Tree Theatre (Yarona Building), 44 8th Ave, Alexandra, www.womenstheatrefestiva.wix.com/ olivetree. 14.11 FRIDAY – 01.02 SUNDAY ROCKY HORROR PICTURE SHOW This raucous production of Richard O’Brien’s cult classic is back by popular demand. Don’t forget your fishnets and feather boas! Not suitable for under-16s.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets R125–R375. 18.11 TUESDAY – 20.12 SATURDAY FOREVER PLAID A recently deceased high school barbershop quartet return from the dead for one final chance at glory. Glee crossed with Sixth Sense.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets from R140.

COMEDY Regular comedy nights include: Parker’s Comedy Club Stand Up (Tue–Sat at 20:00), The Box Standup (Sun 19:30 at P.O.P. Art Theatre) and Jittery Citizens improv (last Thu of the month at Market Theatre). Date 12.09–13.09 15.10–9.11 20.10–25.10 28.10–15.11 31.10–1.11 14.11–11.01

15.11–16.11 19.12–20.12

Event and venue Comedy Central Divine. Lyric Theatre at Gold Reef City This is Captain Lottering Speaking. Pieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino Deep Fried Man: Funnier Than Them. A&G Theatre on the Square Do Bee Boobies. Old queens in drag entertain in this musical slapstick show. A&G Theatre on the Square Joburg Summer Comedy Jam. Lyric Theatre at Gold Reef City Jeeves and Wooster in Perfect Nonsense. P.G. Wodehouse’s 1930s classic. Pieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino Trevor Noah’s NationWILD. Silverstar Casino (R28, Muldersdrift, Mogale City) Barry Hilton: The Way I See It. Lyric Theatre at Gold Reef City

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FAMILY FUN 05.11 WEDNESDAY – 28.12 SUNDAY PETER PAN A swashbuckling pantomime which promises all-round family fun this festive season.QC-2, Joburg Theatre. Tickets R195–R310. 10.11 MONDAY – 21.12 SUNDAY THE WIZARD OF OZ Follow Dorothy, Toto and their friends on a trip down yellow brick road in search of the Emerald City in this most popular family musical.QNational Children’s Theatre. Tickets R50–R110.

EXHIBITIONS For a guide to the Joburg art scene, turn to page 11. UNTIL 30.04.2015 THURSDAY RISE AND FALL OF APARTHEID The Rise and Fall of Apartheid: Photography and the Bureaucracy of Everyday Life is an award-winning exhibition brought to Joburg to coincide with the 20th anniversary of democracy in South Africa. An incredible 800 photographs, artworks, films, videos, documents, posters, and periodicals have been brought together – some for the first time – to create a comprehensive historical overview of the varying responses to apartheid in pictures and words.QMuseuMAfricA, 121 Bree St (Mary Fitzgerald Sq), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624, www.riseandfallofapartheid.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On UNTIL 22.09 MONDAY DUMILE FENI An exhibition of works on paper and sculptures by the late, great South African artist Dumile Feni, once described as ‘the Goya of the townships’.QGallery MOMO, 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. UNTIL 15.10 WEDNESDAY SAHARA A fascinating glimpse into the history of life and human civilisation in the world’s largest desert, with a focus on the historic Tuareg culture of the region.QB-2, Origins Centre, cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits university campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00. UNTIL 02.11 SUNDAY DOING HAIR: ART AND HAIR IN AFRICA In Africa what you choose to do with your hair can also communicate information about your age, religion, social status, politics and aspirations.QB-2, Wits Art Museum, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Family festival on 20.09, booking essential. UNTIL 09.11 SUNDAY LIZA GROBLER: BLINDFOLDED LINE Grobler’s two- and three-dimensional installations use a variety of materials to form abstract shapes and patterns.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3180. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon.

Willem Boshoff, Goodman Gallery

08.11 SATURDAY JOBURG PHOTO UMBRELLA Specially commissioned photography by major British and South African photographers goes on public display in Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown. Workshops, photography walks and pop-up exhibits are also planned.QVarious venues, www.joburgphotoumbrella.tumblr.com. FROM 15.11 SATURDAY ARTISTS HAVE NO FUCKING RESPECT This group show, curated by Posner & Fornoni, tackles freedom of expression in South Africa and promises to be wildly provocative and unforgettable.QRes Gallery, 140 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 4054, www. resgallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. Closed Sun.

20.09 SATURDAY – 12.11 WEDNESDAY ANGEL HARO: THE CONTORTIONIST This Spanish artist’s paintings and sketches of bodies in acrobatic poses are reminiscent of Egon Schiele’s expressive style and pay homage to the circus.QRes Gallery, 140 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 4054, www.resgallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. Closed Sun. 08.10 WEDNESDAY – 12.11 WEDNESDAY ROBERT HAMBLIN: THE COLONY Hamblin, a transgender photographer, reflects on the construction of masculine identities.QUJ Arts Centre, UJ Kingsway Campus, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 559 3058, www.uj.ac.za/arts. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 11.10 SATURDAY – 08.11 SATURDAY WILLEM BOSHOFF: OH MY WORD Boshoff’s remarkable installations explore the complexities of language and its potential for dissent and change. A stunning exhibition in its intricacy and scale.QGoodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

What’s On 15.10 WEDNESDAY – 18.10 SATURDAY SA FASHION WEEK The country’s premier fashion event. In addition to all the swooning, networking and an inevitable flood of Instagram shots, there are opportunities for retail therapy at the pop-up shop.QCrowne Plaza Hotel Johannesburg, cnr Tyrwitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, www. safashionweek.co.za. 25.10 SATURDAY JOHANNESBURG PRIDE 2014 The 25th anniversary of this iconic annual event.QMushroom Farm Park, Sandton Central, www.johannesburgpride.co.za. Starts at 10:00. Entrance free. VIP area tickets R350.

Angel Haro, Res Gallery

15.11 SATURDAY – 20.12 SATURDAY WILLIAM KENTRIDGE One of South Africa’s most iconic artists, Kentridge’s works are collected by museums the world over. In this exhibition, the filmmaker, sculptor and artist shows his charcoal landscape drawings.QGoodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodmangallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

FESTIVALS 23.09 TUESDAY – 28.09 SUNDAY A FESTA PORTUGUESA Feast on delicious Portuguese-influenced dishes, sip on rum cocktails and enjoy live Latino and house music from popular bands such as Mi Casa at this festival dedicated to all things Portuguese.QCarnival City, www. afestaportuguesa.com. Tickets R80, kids R40. 26.09 FRIDAY – 28.09 SUNDAY SOWETO FESTIVAL 2014 Celebrating the rich diversity, culture and heritage of South Africa’s most famous township, with live music, children’s entertainment, craft markets, beer gardens, sports competitions and more. Bring your own meat or buy and braai it here.QNasrec Expo Centre, Nasrec, www. sowetofestivalexpo.co.za. Tickets R50, kids R20. 05.10 SUNDAY – 11.10 SATURDAY CITY OF GOLD URBAN ART FESTIVAL For seven days the city streets come alive in a riot of colour as international street artists join their local counterparts to leave their mark on the city’s walls. Includes film screenings, exhibitions and street-art walking tours (see Sightseeing for more).QB-3, Grayscale Gallery, 33 De Korte St, Braamfontein and various other locations, www. cityofgoldfestival.co.za. 10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

30.10 THURSDAY SKIP FASHION EXCHANGE Bring along clothes to swop with fellow fashionistas and enjoy a gourmet three-course meal with top local fashion stylists at this glamorous venue.QTurbine Hall, 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 300 6700, www.skip.co.za. 29.11 SATURDAY SANSUI SUMMER CUP Dress up in your finest for a day at the races. This is Joburg’s most fashionable racing event and smart clothing (strictly no jeans or flip-flops) is obligatory.Q14 Turf Club St, Turffontein Racecourse, Turffontein, www. sansuisummercup.co.za. Tickets R50. 03.12 WEDNESDAY – 06.12 SATURDAY MAKER FAIRE AFRICA Maker Faire Africa, ‘the greatest show (and tell) on the continent’, is a street-style, family-friendly celebration of invention, creation and resourcefulness. It showcases the latest technologies currently rocking Africa.QG-4, MOAD, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, www. makerfaireafrica.com.

BRAAI NATION 24.09 WEDNESDAY NATIONAL BRAAI DAY September 24 is officially known as Heritage Day, which celebrates the country’s cultural legacies and diversity. In 2005 it was branded National Braai Day in recognition of a barbecuing tradition popular among all South Africans. In 2007 Archbishop Desmond Tutu became the campaign’s patron, pointing out that ‘this is something that can unite us. It is so proudly South African, so uniquely South African.’Qwww.braai.com EVENT TICKETS Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web. Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www. webtickets.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On JOBURG’S ART SCENE Private galleries are part of the dynamic contemporary art scene. Opening nights are generally on Thursdays and artist walkabouts on Saturdays. See our updated What’s On guide at www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. ROSEBANK AND PARKWOOD Jan Smuts Ave, between Wells and Jellicoe Aves, Parkwood, is gallery row. Start at Circa Gallery and Everard Read for impressive collections and temporary exhibitions from established and emerging artists (cnr Jellicoe Ave). Turn at 52 7th Ave to Gallery MOMO for African contemporary art, then head back to Jan Smuts Ave via Chester Road to see roadside bead art opposite the prestigious Goodman Gallery which promotes many A-list artists. On this block you’ll find many independent galleries including the excellent Res Gallery known for its provocative photographic exhibits, Lizamore & Associates (specialising in fine art), the David Krut Bookstore (for books that resemble works of art) and Gallery and Kim Sacks Gallery (for ceramics and African artefacts). All galleries are closed on Sundays.QCirca, Everard Read, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery.co.za, www. everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. David Krut Projects, tel. +27 11 447 0627, www.davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Gallery MOMO, tel. +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Goodman, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon. Lizamore & Associates, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www.lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00– 15:00. Closed Mon. Res, tel. +27 11 880 4054, www. resgallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. CITY CENTRE Many artists work out of studio spaces downtown and there is also a crop of independent galleries. In Maboneng take your pick from MOAD – Museum of African Design (281 Commissioner St), a number of galleries at Arts on Main complex (264 Fox St) and the innovative Nirox Projects (cnr Main and Berea Sts). Don’t miss the impressive WAM – Wits Arts Museum for its incredible collection of African art and exciting temporary exhibitions (cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts) and great galleries found along 60–77 Juta Street. In the heart of the city, head to Standard Bank Art Gallery (D-5, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts). QMOAD, www.moadjhb.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Thu until 23:00. Closed Mon. Nirox Projects, tel. +27 72 350 4326, www.niroxarts.com. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Standard Bank Art Gallery, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun, public holidays. WAM, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00– 16:00. Closed Mon,Tue. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

What’s On

World Orchid Conference; Kamers; FoodWineDesign Fair; Rugby at Ellis Park Stadium

SPORT Date Rugby 4.10 Cricket 17.12 – 21.12 11.01.2015 18.01.2015

Event and venue Springboks vs All Blacks. One of the biggest rugby matches of the year. Ellis Park Stadium 1st test South Africa vs West Indies. SuperSportPark, Centurion 2nd T20 South Africa vs West Indies. Wanderers Stadium 2nd ODI South Africa vs West Indies. Wanderers Stadium

Football Orlando Pirates vs Kaizer Chiefs. The Soweto Derby is one of the most 1.11 anticipated sporting events. FNB Stadium Cycle races and runs 2nd Sun Zoo Trot. 5km or 10km run around of every the Joburg Zoo. Starts at 07:30. Joburg month Zoo Spring Walk 2014 – United We Walk. 5km, 8km or 15km walk around Pre13.09 toria’s Union Buildings, www.springwalk.co.za Joburg Spar Women’s Race. 10km 12.10 and 5km. Wanderers Sports Club, Illovo. www.sparwomensrace.co.za Soweto Marathon. 42km, 21km and 10km. Nasrec Expo Centre near 2.11 the FNB Stadium at 07:00, www. sowetomarathon.com Momentum 94.7 Cycle Challenge. Taking a circular route across the en16.11 tire city, starting at Fourways, www. cyclechallenge.co.za Colour Me Crazy. 5km fun run. River29.11 sands Farm, Fourways, www.colourmecrazy.co.za 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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FAIRS AND EXPOS Date 10.09 – 14.09 20.09 – 21.09 25.09 – 28.09 27.09 – 28.09 10.10 – 12.10 15.10 29.10 – 31.10 30.10 – 02.11 07.11 – 09.11 12.11 – 14.11 02.12 – 07.12

Event and venue 21st World Orchid Conference. One of the world’s largest floral exhibitions. Sandton Convention Centre, www.woc21.org Sandton Craft Beer Fair. The Sands, https://thesands.nutickets.co.za Taste of Joburg. Open-air food and drink festival. Montecasino, www. tasteofjoburg.com Joburg Festival of Beer. Pirates Sports Club (25 Braeside Rd, Greenside), www.joburgfestivalofbeer.co.za rAge. Africa’s leading gaming and technology expo. Coca-Cola Dome, www.rageexpo.co.za Stellenbosch at Summer Palace. An evening of Stellenbosch’s best wines and cuisine, www.wineroute.co.za RMB WineX. Sandton Convention Centre, www.winex.co.za The Photo and Film Expo. Coca-Cola Dome, www.photofilmexpo.com Sanlam Investments Food Wine Design Fair. Hyde Park Corner Shopping Centre, www.foodwinedesign.co.za FNB Whisky Live. Sandton Convention Centre, www.whiskylivefestival.co.za Kamers. Huge festive food and design market. Irene, Pretoria, www. kamersvol.com johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za BASSLINE B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za CARNIVAL CITY Casino and Entertainment World, cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www.carnivalcitycasino.co.za COCA-COLA DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www.coca-coladome.co.za ELLIS PARK STADIUM G-3 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 8644, www.ellispark.co.za EMPEROR'S PALACE 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za FNB STADIUM Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www. joburgtheatre.com LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za LYRIC THEATRE Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Complex, Northern Park Way, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Bree St and Miriam Makeba St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Drive and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, www. montecasino.co.za NATIONAL CHILDREN'S THEATRE 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www. nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za THE ORBIT C-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645 or +27 78 398 6250, www.theorbit.co.za THE SANDS 58 Wierda Rd East, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 1302 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE Maude St, Sandton Central, Tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE AND CULTURAL CENTRE 73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, www.sophiatown.net SA STATE THEATRE 320 Pretorius St, Pretoria City Centre, tel. +27 12 322 7944, www.statetheatre.co.za SOWETO THEATRE Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, www.promusica.co.za SUPERSPORT PARK Centurion West Rd, Centurion, tel. +27 12 663 1005, www.cricket.co.za VOORTREKKER MONUMENT Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 326 6770 WANDERERS STADIUM 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, www.wanderers.co.za facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

Neighbourhoods Extreme wealth and dire poverty coexist in many neighbourhoods, but the city today is also more integrated than it has ever been. While a black middle class is emerging, the process of recovering from years of oppression and division is nowhere near complete. Twenty years after embracing democracy, Joburg is trying hard to define the shape of its future, and there are many bright spots on the map already. The neighbourhoods highlighted here all have a distinctive feel and something unique to offer. For the top attractions, see Sightseeing.

FORDSBURG (see our online feature) While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history – it was once part of the farm on which gold was first discovered – and bearing the scars of its past with pride, Fordsburg today is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. With a weekend night market, spice shops, traditional sweetmeat stores and buzzing street life, Fordsburg is the heart of Joburg’s Indian and Pakistani communities. The Oriental Plaza with 360 stores is its shopping hub, while the streets of Fordsburg offer many delicious surprises by day or night.

BRAAMFONTEIN Joined to Newtown by the Nelson Mandela Bridge, hip ‘Braamies’ is home to excellent museums, the Joburg Theatre, bars, restaurants, the Neighbourgoods Saturday Market, galleries, fashionable stores and Wits University. No visit is complete without a stop at The Orbit, the hottest jazz club in town, and at the inspiring Constitution Hill.

LINDEN What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity and crocheted doilies during the apartheid years. Today it is being reinvented as a cool suburb that pays ironic homage to its past. Its distinctive main street is proudly local with lots of quirky independent stores.

BRYANSTON AND FOURWAYS Joined to Sandton, suburban life here happens amid security suburbs, outdoor-lifestyle centres and equestrian estates, all punctuated by myriad malls. For nightlife, Montecasino is a hugely popular casino, restaurant and theatre complex. CHINATOWNS (see our online feature) The city’s original Chinatown along Commissioner Street is a narrow strip with the oldest restaurant, Swallows Inn, as well as the Sui Hing Hong Supermarket, a must-see store selling everything from sex toys to firecrackers. Its brasher and much more substantial rival is in Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, a world in a few blocks. This is the stop for the widest variety of Asian restaurants and stores that will have you feeling that you need to brush up on your Mandarin. CITY CENTRE (see map on pages 64–65) The place that locals call the ‘inner city’, ‘town’ or ‘CBD’ has long been the victim of a poor reputation, but that is changing. Its residential life has grown immensely and it has plenty of attractions, including a rich collection of public art, the Ethiopian district, the Fashion Kapitol, the historic pedestrianised Main Street, Africa’s tallest building, the Carlton Centre (from the top floor you can enjoy panoramic views of the city and beyond), traditional medicine markets and a fascinating mining history. * Photo of bead artist Owen Chisvo. Find him at Village Green Shopping Centre, 127 Greenway Rd, Greenside. Mon–Sat 08:30–17:00. 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

HYDE PARK One of the most expensive suburbs, its heart is Hyde Park Corner, the city’s swankiest shopping centre filled with international designer stores, ladies who lunch, and the rest of the cappuccino-sipping, Porsche Cayenne fourwheel-drive-owning, artisanal food-buying, groomed and manicured Joburg set. Practise not gasping at the price tags and you’ll fit in just fine.

MABONENG The work of a single property development company, this inner-city district (officially called City and Suburban) has been converted from industrial properties to a happening lifestyle playground that is constantly in a state of reinvention. There is plenty of street art, galleries, shops and restaurants here plus the brilliant Sunday Market on Main and the Museum of African Design (MOAD). The pioneer development is Arts on Main where one of South Africa’s most famous artists, William Kentridge, has his studio. MELVILLE, MILPARK AND AUCKLAND PARK Bohemian Melville is a celebrated nightspot slowly shaking off its reputation for trays of shooters and slightly grungy people and venues. If you’re looking for a good time, you’ll find it here. Together with Braamfontein, this is the city’s student capital. Auckland Park is home to the University of Johannesburg campus while the adjoining suburb of Milpark hosts a great lifestyle hub filled with local designer stores and restaurants at 44 Stanley Avenue. NEWTOWN Joburg’s original cultural precinct is a vast heritage site incorporating the historic Market Theatre, Museum Africa, the impressively renovated Turbine Hall and the immense Mary Fitzgerald Square. The construction dust will soon settle to reveal a new shopping and lifestyle development, Newtown Junction. An incredible collection of graffiti has sprung up around the building works, and it is well worth a visit (see Sightseeing: Tours). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Neighbourhoods NORWOOD One of Johannesburg’s older suburbs, it is making a comeback led by The Factory on Grant, a stylish new space housing independent stores, a cool art gallery and a Vovo Telo bakery all set around a central courtyard. With its eclectic range of restaurants and convenient grocery stores Norwood’s Grant Avenue is once again on the rise. For great local gifts head to the B&B Sunday market at Norwood Mall. ROSEBANK, ILLOVO AND MELROSE Rosebank is a business and shopping hub, home to a series of malls integrated with pedestrian walkways, a permanent African craft market and Sunday market and lots of outdoor space. The Rosebank Mall’s renovation is almost complete and the centre now houses tonnes of new international and local brands. The Zone@Rosebank is a hit with the youthful crowd with cinemas and a games arcade. Nearby Illovo is a restaurant district, and Melrose Arch, a favourite of fans of sanitised street life and designer-label shopping.

SANDTON & ALEXANDRA Facing each other across the M1 highway, Joburg’s wealthy commercial capital, Sandton, and the historic township of Alexandra are like planets belonging to two different galaxies. On one, flashy private wealth and champagne tastes exist as if in a rarefied bubble; on the other, streets teem with people jostling for space among cars, buses, hawkers, makeshift buildings, spaza shops, street-side hairdressers and goats. Formerly farmland, today Sandton is the headquarters of major companies, the Sandton Convention Centre as well as the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Not friendly to pedestrians or wallets, Africa’s shopping capital, with Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square its crown jewels, is where most tourists are likely to find themselves because this is where most of the big-name international hotels are situated. Alexandra may be a historical anomaly and culturally in Soweto’s shadow, but it is rich in history and is starting to wake up to its potential as a tourist destination. The two districts share adjoining stops on the Gautrain O.R. Tambo International Airport route and will soon be linked by a pedestrian bridge (see our cover feature and map).

SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township was once home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. But it’s not only history that makes this vastadded place tick. much renovation completed and an All text in With InDesign upgraded transport network, Soweto is constructing a contemporary identity and offers unique experiences that include fascinating historical landmarks like Vilakazi Street and the Hector Pieterson Museum, a quad-biking tour and bird-watching.

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Cradle of Humankind (28km) – NW Lanseria (47km) – NW Pretoria (59km) – NE Sun City (128km) – NW Kruger Park (495km) – E Durban (568km) – SE Cape Town (1,397km) – SW

R24

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JOBURG NEIGHBOURHOODS 2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM September 2014 – January 2015

Arriving & Getting Around GAUTRAIN Joburg’s pride and joy, the shiny-gold Gautrain, links Park Station in central Johannesburg with the business districts of Sandton and Rosebank and beyond to Pretoria, O.R. Tambo International Airport and various suburbs in between. Buy a Gautrain Gold Card at any station and top it up at the kiosk or vending machine. Every station has a dedicated car park with special rates for Gautrain users, payable by Gold Card. Trains run daily, generally from 05:30 to 20:30 at intervals of 1230 minutes. On weekdays, the first Sandton train leaves at 04:50, the last airport train at 21:00. Timetables are available online or download the Gautrain app (tel. 0800 428 87246, www.gautrain.co.za). A network of buses connects to every Gautrain station. Pay with your Gautrain Gold Card (available from the station kiosk; you must have a minimum of R20 credit). If you use the Gautrain within an hour of using the bus, the fare is R6, otherwise it costs R20. The buses run between 05:30 and 20:30 with a limited weekend service. The Gautrain runs a weekend- and public-holiday-only bus service between the Rosebank Gautrain station and one of the city’s most popular green spaces, Zoo Lake. There are several other useful routes for tourists, including Rosebank–Melrose Arch, Sandton–Montecasino (weekends only), Sandton–Rivonia and Park Station–City Centre (tel. 010 223 1098 for more information).

Delvers, City Centre

Mark Straw

Joburg is a big, sprawling city. Although it does have a definable centre (the inner-city central business district or CBD), many think of the northern suburb of Sandton as the city’s new commercial centre. Still, urban life tends to spread across various suburbs, each with its own distinct identity and style. See Neighbourhoods for a full outline of what’s what. Depending on the length of your stay most visitors will find that renting a car makes life much easier – outside the City Centre there are entire neighbourhoods that can be difficult to reach with public transport, and the situation becomes even more trying if you want to head into the countryside. Despite rumours to the contrary, Joburg does have a large public transport system. Although it doesn’t reach nearly as many places as we would like, the city’s transport network is currently undergoing improvements and has much to offer non-motorists, especially those heading to the main tourist destinations and business districts.

AIRPORTS AND FLYING Johannesburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, and the smaller Lanseria Airport. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport lies 30km east of Sandton and is spacious, modern and easy to get around. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B – which merge after you have passed through the security checkpoints. South African Airways (SAA) flights depart from Terminal B. The airport has a reputation for baggage handlers rifling through luggage, so make sure your bags are safely locked or wrapped. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands head for the viewing deck at the furthest end of international departures, and one floor up. There you will find a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, freedom fighter and national hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za. 16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. Trains run from 05:30 until 20:30 at intervals of 15 to 30 minutes. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis (+27 86 124 3243, www.jiata. co.za) start from R16 p/km. Follow the signs in the airport to the taxi booking office. LANSERIA AIRPORT Approximately 30km to the north-west of Sandton, Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za. Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles. AIRPORT PARKING AND SHUTTLE BUSES Pre-booked shuttle buses from both airports to Joburg destinations start at around R400 per person. Try EZ Shuttle (tel. 0861 397 488, +27 12 348 8040, www.ezshuttle. co.za) or Rhino Shuttles (tel. +27 11 793 2282, www.rhinoshuttle.co.za). For discount airport valet parking there is Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za). LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines. SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa. com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www.britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 0861 585 852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget)QTel. 0861 001 234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango.com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww. travelstart.co.za.

GETTING AROUND DRIVING IN JOBURG To get around easily you need a car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and read our Safety Tips in Joburg Basics. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass other traffic on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat it as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is rampant, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system (www.nra. co.za) was recently introduced. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Public art at a Rea Vaya stop

CAR RENTAL Reservations for rental companies Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire can be made through Africarhire. QTel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire.com. Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Rent-A-Wreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun. BUSES The new Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and secure bus stops. Routes run from City Centre to destinations in Soweto. Smartcards can be bought and loaded at the bus stop outside Park Station or at the Carlton Centre, and you need to create a PIN when you first activate it. Fares are calculated by distance and start at around R5. Single-journey tickets are available at bus stops. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and run from around 06:00–18:30, less frequently at weekends. The electronic timetables at bus stops are rarely accurate.Qwww.reavaya.org.za. Useful routes The circular City Centre C-3 route passes all the main tourist sights as well as Park Station Gautrain. The C-5 and T-3 leave from Park Station and makes a stop at Milpark (close to 44 Stanley Avenue and a 15-minute walk from the centre of Melville). See Neighbourhoods.

NAVIGATING THE CITY Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues. Street names, especially those of major thoroughfares, change quickly and the erection of new street signs often does not keep pace with the renaming. September 2014 – January 2015

Arriving & Getting Around as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using them at night or alone. Hand the fare to the driver – R5 to R10 for short journeys. Drivers prefer coins or small notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually the easiest way. Although using them can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers minibus taxis offer great insight into everyday South African life.

Tuk-tuks in Soweto

Metrobus is the creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system, ferrying commuters from the suburbs to City Centre and back. Most bus routes terminate at Gandhi Square in City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St). The majority of buses depart between 06:00 and 09:30. Few buses run during the day and you will be lucky to find one after 18:00 or at the weekend. To get route information, visit the information office inside Gandhi Mall on Gandhi Square. Fares start at R10 and are paid to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your bus stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked. Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow. MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal. The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant

TAXI HAND SIGNALS This ingenious system was developed during the apartheid era by mostly black commuters, who had to travel long distances to and from work. The easiest way to test a minibus taxi is to ride one to City Centre, and the best way to understand the system is to ask other commuters.

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank

Images by Joburg artist Susan Woolf from her books and exhibition, Taxi Hand Signs: Symbolic Landscapes of Public Culture

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TAXIS Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out. Except for outside hotels, there are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. There are currently two taxi cab booking apps operating in Joburg – Snappcab and Uber (available on Android, Windows and iPhone). The following taxis companies are generally reliable and run on meters: Orange CabsQTel. 0861 700 222, www.orangecab.co.za. Quick CabQTel. 0861 665 566, www. myquickcab.co.za. Zebra CabsQTel. 0861 105 105, www.zebracabs.co.za. TUK-TUKS The latest addition to Joburg’s transport network is the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks based at Sandton Central and in Melville. While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone, they do make travelling between suburbs easier. Also, with fares starting at R25 you can’t argue with the price. Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R35. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.QTel.+27 82 695 0211, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius. It can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 0861 743 742, www. sheshatuks.co.za. CYCLING AND WALKING Cycling is a favoured pastime but the city is not always safe for cyclists. The Johannesburg Urban Cyclists Association publishes a Joburg bicycle map available at www.juca. org.za. Walking in the northern suburbs is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville and Parkhurst, are great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only, and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, and do not cross the bridges over the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. For travelling from Joburg to the rest of South Africa on long-distance buses and trains, and all you need to know about cycling, see Getting Around at johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay TREND SNAPSHOT

Hyatt Regency, Rosebank

LUXURY HOTELS The business who’s who favour the elegance and convenience of Rosebank’s Hyatt Regency, and frequent its cigar bar and lounge (see Trend Snapshot), or the Radisson Blu Sandton’s state-of-the-art connectivity and superb health club (cnr Rivonia Rd and Daisy St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 245 8000, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-johannesburg. 290 rooms), while it’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www. intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms). You can’t get any closer to the megamalls than Sandton’s grande dame Sandton Sun (cnr 5th and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/deluxe/ sandton-sun. 334 rooms). The flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch (1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.african pride hotels. com. 118 rooms) and the intimate and chic 54 on Bath with its boutiquehotel feel and Champagne Bar offer five-star-plus luxury (see Trend Snapshot).

BOUTIQUE HOTELS International dignitaries rub shoulders with the Champagne-and-polo set in a lush garden retreat at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns.co.za. 40 suites.) At 10 Bompas the spacious suites are designed to be a home away from home (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.10bompas.com. 10 suites), while The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery

Not so long ago the décor and design of many Joburg hotels exhibited a wistfulness for other locales. In the apartheid years ‘Africa’ was a dirty word – then more associated in the media with starving children in Ethiopia – and the safe association, ironically, was with safaris and the wild, an ‘Out of Africa’ bushveld stripped of questions about land, human or animal rights. Then there was the European luxe phase – call it the ‘close your eyes and think of England or Florence moment’ – with its inevitable photos of polo horses, or an imagined Tuscan landscape complete with piazzas, frescos and cupolas. With the arrival of democracy that notion of Africa transformed from a colonial dreamscape into something more vague, with earthy colours and a smattering of beadwork, what we think of as ‘Africa genericus’. Today a growing pride in Joburg is being reflected in the décor and design of hotels across the city. If you are looking for a bit of Joburg in your hotel these are our picks. HYATT REGENCY Its newly refurbished restaurant is named for its location at 191 Oxford Road. One Nine One’s décor celebrates the jacaranda trees that bloom in Joburg’s older suburbs in spring.Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 280 1234, www.johannesburg.regency.hyatt. com. 224 rooms. See Where To Eat. 54 ON BATH The images displayed in the rooms of this super stylish and luxury bolt-hole show Joburg’s urban landmarks and landscape.Q54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, +27 11 344 8500, www.54onbath.com. 75 rooms. EASY HOTEL Each floor of this hotel celebrates the life of a Joburg personality – artists, writers and thinkers – whose achievements are connected to Braamfontein and the surrounding areas.Q90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, +27 11 242 8600, www.easyhotel.com. 60 rooms. 12 DECADES This avant-garde design hotel pays homage to 12 decades of Joburg history, with each room playfully designed around a key historical moment.Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, 086 122 6787, www.urbanhiphotels.com. 16 rooms. GARDEN COURT MILPARK A recent refurbishment turned this dowdy threestar into the quintessential slick budget urban hotel, its décor inspired by the Rea Vaya bus service.QCnr Empire Rd and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 10 219 1000, www.tsogosunhotels.com. 251 rooms.

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Morningside Manor – 011 804 2540

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September 2014 – January 2015

Where to stay

Welcome to Johannesburg’s best guest houses www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A comprehensive website that offers a range of affordable accommodation options.

All our establishments are centrally located and within easy travelling distance of the Rosebank Gautrain station, Hyde Park, Sandton, the Johannesburg city centre and major motorways.

Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, overnighting or here for a longer stay, we invite you to experience our friendly hospitality and service.

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

(61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech. co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House with its museum dedicated to the life of Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1907 is a bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS The slick business and social hotspot, the Maslow Hotel buzzes with activity attracting the fun crowd for sundowners and poolside Sunday jazz (146 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.suninternational.com). For a business hotel with a resort feel the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine. (20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). The Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel’s businesslike exterior conceals its modern, stylish interiors and busy social life (cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www.radissonblu.com/hotelsandton-johannesburg. 216 rooms). The fashion week set hang out in the Austin Powers-like lobby at Crowne Plaza The Rosebank where drinks at the Circle Bar are de rigueur (cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www.therosebank.co.za. 318 rooms). At Protea Fire & Ice! in Melrose Arch the milkshake bar attracts young socialites and the shopping crowd (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www. proteahotels.com/melrose. 197 rooms). At the luxurious Venetian-themed Southern Sun Montecasino, in the mega-casino and entertainment complex have your autograph book ready if you are a sporting fan as local heroes are regularly seen traversing the lobby (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, +27 11 367 4367, www.tsogosunhotels.com. 94 rooms). Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 one-bedroom suites is a conference and function destination in the city with 360-degree views of the skyline from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites). Thaba Ya Batswana Eco Hotel set in an exquisite nature reserve is an ideal getaway for mixing business with the great outdoors (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www. thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms).

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Where to stay ON A (STYLISH) BUDGET The vibrant Easy Hotel is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities for its lively atmosphere and brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures (C-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.easyhotel.com. 60 rooms). The Bannister Hotel is a hipster delight in Braamfontein (C2/3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. 31 rooms). The streets of Maboneng beckon from the Twelve Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel (see Trend Snapshot), or take a look at the Garden Court Milpark to be conveniently located within walking distance from the boutique shopping hub of 44 Stanley in Milpark, Joburg’s universities and a short trip from the city and Melville’s nightlife (see Trend Snapshot).

GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites with lots of space, privacy, personalised service and proximity to the city’s buzzing neighbourhoods, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers a range of affordable accommodation options in the Rosebank area. See their booking website www. johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za. Owner Liz Delmont of Liz at Lancaster is a Joburg maven with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has also thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster.co.za. 7 rooms). In Melville the traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas ticks lots of ’authentic South African‘ boxes (66 Sixth Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za. 14 rooms). Nearby is the tasteful Lucky Bean Guesthouse, sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip, in a quiet tree-lined street (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www.luckybeanguesthouse.co.za. 9 rooms). Seek out the contemporary cool Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi.co.za. 6 rooms).

APARTMENT HOTELS For business travellers with long-stay needs in a hotel environment Joburg’s apartment hotels offer self-catering options and spacious at-home living. Named for the legendary African kingdom famed for its gold-trading, the Faircity Mapungubwe Hotel is in the heart of

4-star luxury guest house. Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor. Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

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September 2014 – January 2015

Where to stay TRAVELLER’S DELIGHT Just metres from international departures at O.R. Tambo International Airport is the Intercontinental Hotel’s Camelot health spa with a heated pool that has an exceptional view of the runways. Escape the hubbub with a pre-flight massage and a soak in the pool, or tell your boss you’re arriving later than planned (tel. +27 11 961 5430. Open 09:00–21:00).

SPORTING CHOICE The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is a welcoming surprise in a Randburg suburb. Book a luxury room or visit the Vista Deck for a spectacular sunset view with cocktails. The spacious spa can accommodate wedding parties, and the hotel is the place you’re going to wish was booked for your company’s next conference. The Balata fine-dining restaurant also hosts regular wine dinners and Sunday lunches.QSetperk Street, Randpark, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za. 116 rooms.

Empire Executive Apartments and Hotel, Sandhurst

the city centre’s financial and mining house district (C-5, 50 Marshall St, Marshalltown, tel. +27 11 429 2600, www. mapungubwehotel.co.za. 96 rooms.) The modern Nicol Hotel is within easy reach of O.R. Tambo International Airport (cnr Skeen Blv and Nicol Rd, Bedfordview, +27 11 455 0549, www.urbanhiphotels.com. 70 rooms), while the newest kid on the block is Sandton’s Empire Executive Apartments and Hotel, perfectly located for access to all of Sandton central’s attractions, with state-of-the-art business facilities and a pool deck that looks set to be a summer destination on Friday afternoons (177 Empire Place, cnr Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, +27 11 911 5000, www. empirehotel.co.za. 130 rooms).

BACKPACKER HOSTELS If it’s happening in Maboneng – which it always is – Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado who also runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing: Tours). Curiocity hosts live-music events, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers an exchange programme for visit- Curiocity Backpackers ing artists – accommodation for art (302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 592 0515, www.curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds). If you are planning to overnight in Soweto, the celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is also a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beachstyle bar. You can almost smell the rum and coconut oil. Owner Lebo Pooe’s bicycle tours of Soweto are a must-do (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds). For more information about all the hotels listed, go to www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat DINING WITH A VIEW While Joburg may not have a mountain or an ocean, it does arguably have one of the prettiest skylines in Africa. The city’s hilly landscape also means that there are a number of places from which to take in a breathtaking view. Hasmita Nair, a blogger and writer with a passion for travel and food, shares her top choices with us. Visit her blog: www.joziliciousblog.co.za and follow her on Twitter: @hasmita. THE LIVING ROOM This trendy spot in Maboneng with its views over the inner city, hosts a rooftop party every Sunday. The tasty snack platters are priced at around R150 and are great for sharing.QG-4, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 61 402 2843, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Mon–Wed by appointment only. RR. THE ISLAND BAR For pre-dinner drinks and a chance to brush shoulders with socialites and celebrities, gather at the swanky pool deck to view the sunset. The tempura prawn California rolls on the snack menu are highly recommended. QSouthern Sun Hyde Park Hotel, 1st Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 341 8080, www.tsogosunhotels.com/hotels/ hyde-park-sandton. RR. EMOYENI ESTATE While the service can be a little slow, the panoramic views of Northern Joburg make it still worthwhile. Emoyeni is often booked for private functions, so call well in advance for a Sunday buffet brunch reservation (adults R260, children under 12, free) – served in the intimate 30-seater dining room.Q15 Jubilee St, Parktown, tel. +27 11 544 6900, www.emoyeniestate.co.za. Open for lunch 12:00-15:00, dinner 17:00-21:00. RRR. NORTHCLIFF RIDGE The landmark water tower is a favourite destination of avid rock climbers. The smooth quartzite ridge boasts views as far as Sandton. Visit by day when there is a security presence. Stop at Luvies Bakery and Deli en route to pick up some goodies to enjoy at the top (Shop G10, Cresta Corner, cnr Beyers Naude Dr and Pendoring Rd, Cresta, tel. +27 11 476 2732).QLucky Ave, Northcliff, northcliffecopark.org. RANDLORDS Perched on the highest point of Braamfontein, this stunning venue – mostly used for private functions – hosts parties every now and again. Watch their Facebook page and website for details. The cocktail bar is quite spectacular, and they make a mean margarita which you can enjoy on the rooftop deck.QB-2, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41 de Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1930, www.randlords.co.za. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Roots, Cradle of Humankind

ROOTS Situated on a game estate about 30 minutes’ drive from the city, this country-style restaurant regularly gets a nod on the best-restaurant lists. No skyline view here but you will get to marvel at the sheer mass of land around you. Set menus at set times only (wine pairings are optional) so advance bookings are a must.QLetamo Game Estate, R540, Kromdraai, Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 11 668 7000, www.forumhomini.com/rootsrestaurant. Open 07:00–23:30. RRR-RRRR. WESTCLIFF STEPS Situated in one of the most affluent suburbs, the Westcliff steps (210 in total) are Joburg’s ‘stairway to heaven’, popular with joggers and dog walkers. Entrance on Crescent Drive. The reward for climbing them is Liz @ Lancaster a jaw-dropping view. Cool down over a smoothie and healthy breakfast at Gingko, a garden-style eatery within walking distance (61 Dundalk Ave, Cnr Roscommon Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 486 3361. Open 07:00–17:30, Sat–Sun 08:00–17:30. Closed Mon. RR). HIGHER GROUND Despite being one of the few restaurants open seven days a week, most locals don’t know about this spot, tucked into the grounds of St. Stithians College in Randburg. Enjoy the Big Boy Breakfast on the terrace for R65 (savoury mince on toasted ciabatta with poached eggs and glazed tomatoes).QSt Stithians College Property, 40 Peter Place, Randburg, tel. +27 11 024 3433, www. highergroundrestaurant.com. Open 06:30–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 until late, Sun 07:30–17:00.

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Based on average main course. No prices for cafés given. September 2014 – January 2015

Where to eat FINE DINING While Joburg may trail Cape Town in the sheer number of fine-dining restaurants, the most recent major food awards put The Saxon Boutique Hotel & Spa’s Five Hundred on the Top 10 Restaurant list and its chef, Dave Higgs, scooped the Chef of the Year Award (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon. co.za. Open for dinner by reservation only 18:30–24:00; last orders by 20:30. Closed Sun, Mon). Another of our favourites The Leopard took the title for South Africa’s best bistro (63A 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, www.leopardfoodcompany.com. Open 17:00– 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun). The growing trend for fine-dining restaurants in the city’s top hotels is perfectly complemented by impeccable service and presentation that goes with a great hotel experience. These are our picks for a fine dining experience. ONE NINE ONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and photographs of jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s recently renovated restaurant, led by chef Andrew Atkinson (and former MasterChef South Africa host), offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. Atkinson is a master at infusing dishes with flavour. The three-course menu is seasonal with local ingredients fused with seasoning influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to the Lobby Lounge or head to the courtyard for a cigar or a nightcap.QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www. johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:30–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch, dinner 12:30–22:00. Closed Sun. RRRR. LACUNA With the lighting dimmed romantically for dinner, this sophisticated bistro with its slick interiors offers an intimate setting surprising for the restaurant’s size. Choose a table by the window to enjoy a view of the poolside and garden – the Sunday gourmet braai is extremely popular. Chef Dallas Orr’s menu, served from an open kitchen, is all contemporary flavours and includes some West African favourites like pepper soup and Jollof rice. On the dinner menu each dish is optionally paired with wine. Superb service ensures you’ll linger.QThe Maslow Hotel, cnr Grayston and Rivonia Rds, Sandton +27 10 226 4600 www.suninternational.com/maslow/restaurants/ Pages/default.aspx. Open 06:30–11:00, 12:00–22:30. Sun 12:00–17:00. RRRR. 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Eat Your Heart Out, Maboneng

Choose from pavement dining or five-star gourmet cuisine. Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings. Book an outdoor table to appreciate the fine weather. With South African wines as good as they are it is worth taking your own bottle (average corkage R50). Many places close over Christmas and New Year, so call in advance.

MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD If you’re looking for harmony in the Middle East, you’ll find it in the food. The crossroads between Africa, Europe and Asia has for centuries been the site of a flavour exchange. Joburg may be miles away but there are plenty of places where you can get a taste of the region. Who knows, if enough people enjoy kebabs or hummus, peace may soon reign. SCHWARMA CO If schwarma is what you’re after this generally packed, fully licenced eatery is your spot. Two storeys (there is an upstairs sports bar with an open patio) in which to feast your eyes on towering displays of olives and other Middle Eastern staples. Choose your lamb, chicken or beef schwarma on a platter, in a pita or a laffa.Q71 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 1776, www.schwarmacompany.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. Corkage fee R50. RR. UBS TEI AVON SCHWARMA BISTRO Choose the schwarma on a plate with side salads, hummus and tahini (carb-free or with warm pita bread) and the best fried eggplant in town. Cosy interiors and free wifi also make this an attractive stop, along with the homemade halva and pistachio ice-cream.QShop 17, Victory Park Shopping Centre, cnr 2nd Ave and Rustenburg Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 782 6976, www.teiavon.co.za. Open from 10:30–21:00. Open from 08:30 at weekends. Licensed. RR. ULSW TETA MARI For the best shakshouka breakfast (a dish of poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) there’s this stylish café that serves generous portions of food to bring comfort to any troubled soul.Q5A Illovo Square, cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00– 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. RR. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat EAT YOUR HEART OUT Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings and the excellent schwarma salad, and order a freshly pressed juice to go with it. The décor of this intimate eatery is inspired and constantly evolving. Tables along the pavement offer a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www.eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R. BLW ISTANBUL KEBAB If Middle Eastern food is all about the kebab for you, travel to Fordsburg for a dizzying array of halaal cooked meats served with fresh salads and dips. Service here is friendly and there are hookah pipes aplenty in the covered courtyard.QA-4, 52 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 056 5749. Open 11:00–22:00. R. BS BURHAN’S BUTCHERY & KEBAB HOUSE For a budget option there’s this halaal butchery started by burly Turkish brothers. Follow the delicious smell along Church Street where the kebab is grilled on the pavement. Enjoy plates of chicken pieces, spiced lamb, kofta and Turkish pide (filled flatbread). Top off your meal with the best baklava.Q79 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 1123. Open 09:00–18:30, Sun 09:00–16:00. R. S

NEIGHBOURHOODS AFRICAN CUISINE From Cameroonian grilled fish to Ethiopian injeera, Joburg has plenty of African food. The definition includes Africaninfluenced food, too, like the Indian curries made South African-style or Mozambican-flavoured Portuguese food. Maboneng is a good place for an African culinary adventure. Try Little Addis (280 Fox St, tel. +27 82 683 8672) or James VXI (300 Commissioner St) for Ethiopian cuisine made for sharing and at extremely reasonable prices. At House of Baobab (20 Kruger St, tel. +27 11 039 1632) choose from a fusion of dishes from across the continent, or opt for Pata Pata’s take on stylish African food (286 Fox St, tel. +27 73 036 9031). For streetside meat and pap there’s Sha’p Braai Stand (Kruger St, tel. +27 72 810 3109). For the most typically South African cuisine, particularly shisa nyama (barbecued meats), stew with pap and exotic dishes like chicken heads and feet, the best places are found in Soweto (see Sightseeing: Soweto). While we visit many restaurants, we only write about the ones we like because our editorial space is too precious to waste on places that don’t make the grade. We do not charge for listings. Generally our visits are unannounced. If you don’t find what you’re looking for here, we have plenty more recommendations online, including Mexican, Asian and Greek restaurants, and burger bars. Visit www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FORDSBURG (see our online feature) Feel the pulse of Indian Joburg in this distinctive neighbourhood. Rich in history, Fordsburg is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets and enticing flavours. Along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Road and Bree Street – particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market – you’ll find the widest variety of restaurants. Some of our favourites include North Indian Coffee House (tel. +27 11 492 2089), Dosa Hut (tel. +27 11 492 1456), Al Makka (tel. +27 11 838 2545) and Shalimar Delights (tel. +27 11 832 1675) for mouth-watering sweetmeats. The nearby old-school Bismillah’s is where you want to get your Friday biryani (78 Mint Rd, tel. +27 11 838 6429), and the Golden Peacock in Fordsburg’s shopping mecca, Oriental Plaza is your samoosa stop (38–60 Bree St, www.orientalplaza.co.za). Many stores close for Friday prayers between 12:30 and 14:00, and most restaurants do not serve alcohol.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi September 2014 – January 2015

Where to eat TROYEVILLE HOTEL Enjoy unfussy Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence at this authentic neighbourhood hotel in edgy Troyeville. Don’t go there for the décor. The place has a lot of cred with old lefties (political activists), artists and musicians, and also hosts regular book evenings.QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Dawe St), tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:30–22:00. RR. LEB

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN The Argentinean, Linden

CHINESE JOBURG (see our online feature) Impressive archways mark the entrances to Derrick Street, Cyrildene. Joburg’s new Chinatown is unmistakably Asian, with its Chinese supermarkets, exotic vegetable markets, karaoke bar, tea shops, acupuncturists and restaurants showcasing a diversity of predominantly Chinese food. For the adventurous eater there’s a lot of fun to be had in deciphering untranslated menus. For the best shuijiao (boiled dumplings), look for North Dumplings; for seafood and Taiwanese-style cooking, grab a table at Fisherman’s Plate (tel. +27 11 622 0480). Chinese Northern Foods (tel. +27 72 030 9414 – also at 369 Rivonia Bvd, Rivonia) is super authentic and serves exotically described foods like ‘little sheep in oil’ with heaps of garlic. The award-winning Sai Thai (tel. +27 11 615 1339) is your stop for Thai cuisine. Pop by Betty Wu’s tiny bubble tea shop Simplicity (cnr Marcia St) for a refreshing and authentic pearl milk tea. If you are planning on adventurous home cooking, Derrick Street is also the best place to buy fresh vegetables and anything else you can think of from its supermarkets.

PORTUGUESE 1920 PORTUGUESE Tucked into a rather ordinary shopping strip is this remarkable restaurant specialising in Madeiran cuisine. Authentic and family friendly, the kitchen closes at 20:30 but it is well worth a visit for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada (on a skewer), prawns and calamari. Booking essential.QFerndale Village, cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30). Closed Mon. RR. TL PARREIRINHA Hugely popular, it’s worth travelling a little further out of town for a leisurely meal at this unpretentious spot located in an old police station. The dishes are anything but ordinary. Lots of garlic and chilli (Mozambican-influenced) is to be found in the Portuguese flavours and the speciality dishes include bacalhau (cod), prawn cakes, steaks and delicious prawns. Booking essential.Q9 6th St (Augusta Rd), La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50. L 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FREE FOOD Little more than a hole in the wall, the exclusively vegan menu changes weekly adding different curries, pastas or stir fries. The huge, leafy salads, bulked up with superfoods like quinoa, are permanently on the menu, and there’s a freezer stuffed with vegan meals to take home.QShop 5B Reithmere, cnr Delta St and Corlett Drv, Birnam, tel. +27 82 406 4699, www.freefood.co.za. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 08:30–17:00. Closed Sun. RR. SW GREENSIDE CAFÉ Here’s to raw food, vegetarianism, peace, love and understanding. The bright and welcoming place serves fresh juices, raw food, haloumi, avocado and quinoa salad, wheat-free pizzas or everyone’s favourite, the ‘Shooting Star’ – dainty filo parcels filled with warm chocolate truffle. So tasty, non-vegetarians won’t be put out.Q34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, www. thegreensidecafe.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. R. UB YOGIBERRY Balance your chakras with a unique combo of spicy curries paired with frozen yoghurt or a fruit smoothie. The biryani dishes are excellent and great value for money, and the spicy food plus frozen yoghurt cool-down dessert are a heavenly match. A casual stop in Maboneng.Q264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 636 2876. Open 10:00–18:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–19:00. Closed Mon. R. LNBS

BEST BREAKFASTS It’s not a perfect breakfast without fluffy scrambled or poached eggs delivered as requested, fresh juices and aromatic coffee. To check all those boxes, we suggest you head in these directions where breakfast is served all day unless otherwise stated. THE ARGENTINIAN The sign outside proudly declares that they bake ‘the best croissants in Africa’. Whether you want a simple pastry or bacon and eggs, you can’t knock the value at this old-fashioned and unpretentious place. Breakfast with coffee and a juice will set you back around R50.QCnr 7th St and 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 9759. Open 06:30–17:00, Sat 06:30–14:00, Sun 06:30–13:00. R. UB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat CROFT & CO Good service, Illy coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town make this the early-morning hangout for opinionistas, writers and other media types. An equal-opportunity café, Croft also welcomes the Louis Vuitton-toting, Range Rover-driving set.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, www.croftandco.co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu–Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. RR. BW SALVATIONCAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of healthy, sweet and savoury, plus breakfast burritos. The tables here flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www.salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Breakfast until 12:00. RR. B PARK CAFÉ Pretty and pink with an Astro Turf carpet, and perfectly placed on art gallery row. A spectacular coffee machine takes counter pride of place. The poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, www.parkcafe.co.za. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. Breakfast until 11:00. R. L PATISSERIE DE PARIS Formerly a filmmaker, Paul Zwick trained in France and today makes the best baguette in town. His croissants have to be tasted a number of times to appreciate their buttery flakiness.Q8 Mackay Ave, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 0913, www.patisseriedeparis.co.za. Open 08:00– 17:30, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:00. Closed Mon. RR. BTW TASHA’S Frequented by socialites and anyone else who enjoys fresh and tasty food served in huge portions. The food at this chain is presented with flair. Try the Monaco (poached eggs on wilted spinach with feta, red onion and black mushrooms).QMelrose Arch Piazza, +27 11 684 1781, www.tashas.co.za. Open 06:00–22:00, Sun, Mon 06:00–21:00. RR. LBTS

ITALIAN Orange Grove was once Joburg’s Little Italy, but today you can find good Italian food in many suburbs. There’s no worthier cuisine to keep you lingering at the table on warm summer days. As George Miller pointed out, ‘The trouble with eating Italian food is that five or six days later you’re hungry again.’ Here are our recommended spots. CAFÉ DEL SOL Even the décor at this lively café reminds you to enjoy your food, with words of wisdom adorning the walls and napkins. Try a traditional Nonna pasta or choose from the excellent risottos. The chicken roulade served with garlic facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Remo’s Maximilliano, Sunninghill

mash is a big hit. Booking required.QOlivedale Corner Shopping Centre, cnr Olive and President Fouché Rds, Randburg, tel. +27 11 704 6493, www.cafedelsol. co.za. Open 10:00–15:00, 18:00–22:00, Sat 10:00–15:00, 18:00–22:15, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon. RRR. L DA GRAZIELLA On Sunday afternoons Italian families sit at long tables piled high with mouthwatering dishes. Start with a platter of roasted vegetables that include the Nastrini Piccanti Melanzane (brinjal ribbons with chilli), and move on to pasta or pizza and excellent veal dishes with hearty sides. Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, www.dagraziella.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00– 21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. RR. LTU REMO’S MAXIMILLIANO This impressive retro-looking Italian diner also has a small deli and bakery worth stopping at. It has an excellent breakfast menu and a great choice of pizza, pastas and light meals.QWaterfall Corner Shopping Center, cnr Maxwell and Woodmead Dr, Sunninghill, tel. +27 10 007 1699, www.remos.co.za. Open 06:30–23:00, Sun 06:30–15:30. RR. BULW STELLE Inspired by northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and regularly devise new dishes at this friendly restaurant. Pastas are light and homemade; if you are a meat eater try the fillet with mushrooms. Desserts are a speciality. Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996, www. stellerestaurant.co.za. Dinner from 18:00. Lunch 12:00– 15:00 on Fri–Sun. Closed Mon. RR (corkage R50). LB TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on necessities like its signature melanzane, Spinach Malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach) and anchovy pâté. There are excellent veal and pasta dishes and desserts.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, www.tortellino.co.za. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. RRR. TB September 2014 – January 2015

Where to eat WORKSPACES

Love Food, Braamfontein

STEAKHOUSES Joburg isn’t Buenos Aires but it competes with that meatloving city. Grain-fed, lazy-aged prime cuts are the order of the day and most places will let you order a side dish of the popular local staple pap (maize meal) with tomato-andonion gravy. For Sandton steakhouses The Butchershop and Grill and The Bullrun, see Where To Eat: Sandton. THE GRILLHOUSE Rosebank’s New York-style steakhouse is an institution. Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations are essential and ask about the shuttle service it offers to and from nearby hotels.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L. TURN ‘N TENDER Consistently tasty basted steaks and an excellent selection of sides. Swift and friendly service accompany the gigantic spare-rib platters. Kitchen may close early on Sunday.QParktown Quarter, 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, www.turnntender.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. Corkage R40. RRR. LB THE LOCAL GRILL Here you can select your cut from the meat locker and you can even book a kitchen tour for an experience designed for the wannabe beef aficionado.Q40 7th Avenue, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, www.local-grill. co.za. Open Mon 18:00–22:00, Tue–Sat 12:00–14:30, 18:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. RRR. LB THE SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL Serving a barbecue menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a pulled-pork sandwich that the critics are applauding.Q73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395, Open Mon–Wed 11:30–21:30, Thu-Sat 11:30–22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. EBW 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

A café is a café, you would think, but not so much in the modern era where free and speedy wi-fi is as much a requirement as good coffee, snacks and attentive service. For a great day at the ‘office’, these are your best choices. Warm & Glad has an excellent menu, choice of workspaces and plenty of distractions, including a great book store for refined pursuits. The music is a little too loud when you forget that this place is not your boardroom (357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. Open Mon–Wed 07:30–16:30, Thu–Fri 07:30-20:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. Closed Sun. Service ends 30 minutes before closing). At Bean Republic, Edwin mans the coffee machine and gives the warmest welcomes. There’s never any pressure to leave (81 Corlett Dr, Melrose, tel. +27 11 440 4342, www.beanrepublic.co.za. Open 06:00 until late. Sat, Sun 07:00 until late). Wolves invented Joburg northern suburbs hipsterdom, albeit with a scruffy edge. The menu is limited but supplemented by excellent Asian choices from their sister joint The Good Luck Club (4 Corlett Drive, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 2360, www.wolves. co.za. Open 07:30–19:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 until last guest, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00). Guru is designed for conversation or solo work, with its bright and airy space, superb coffee and light snacks (9 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5044. Open 06:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:30–17:00). Motherland Coffee’s branches have been mistaken for iStores, what with all those laptops blinking at you. Order the Mothercuppa (Dunkeld Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2324, www. motherlandcoffee.com. See website for branches. Open 06:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 06:00–15:30).

HARVEST TABLES Buffets are so 70s. We are a fan of the harvest table lunch, piled with platters of freshly-made salads and side dishes of chicken, meat or fish, offering a variety of tastes on your plate in one single course. Arrive early at Love Food to avoid the queue on the pavement outside this pocket-sized café. Finish your meal with Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream (C-2, 4 Ameshoff St, Braamfontein, tel. + 27 83 602 6511, www.lovefoodkitchen.com. Mon–Fri from 11:30. Corkage R20). Tra Amici offers an Italian pavement-lunch special. Fill a takeaway box with food. Find the day’s menu on Facebook (Unit 2, The Rosebank Firestation, Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 83 274 3558. Mon–Fri from 12:00). Moemas has an irresistable display of sweet things to distract you from its harvest table. (Shop 1, Parktown Quarter, cnr 3rd and 7th Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7725, www.moemas. co.za. Daily from 12:00–13:00. Charged by weight). The Service Station is a roomy and light-filled café with a great lunch spread of quiches, lasagnes and salads (Bamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online.co.za. Mon–Fri from 12:30–15:00. Charged by weight). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat ASIAN RED CHAMBER A Joburg institution, owner Emma Chen presides over unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes (no MSG). Famous for spicy cucumber salad and Peking duck, it‘s worth heading to the shopping centre for.QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www.redchamber. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. TULS GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Delicate dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen prepared by chef Nick Scott. Catch him on a quiet day (increasingly rare) and he will improvise. The pareddown setting is a Melville rooftop.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open Tue–Fri, 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–23:00, Sun 13:00–20:00. Closed Mon. RR. LBW YAMATO A stiff atmosphere takes little away from this much-awarded restaurant with its superior menu of traditional Japanese dishes, sushi and sashimi. Try the gyoza dumplings or light tempura dishes.Q198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www.yamato.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00, 18:00– 22:00. Closed Sun. RR–RRR. ULBS

SUMMER TREATS Paul Ballen is the ice cream king of Joburg, taking the humble frozen stuff to new heights with a range of incredible flavours including salted caramel, cinnamon, strawberry jam, and spiced orange and honey. Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream is sold at selected stores and restaurants and on the last Sunday of every month you can find him at Ice Cream Sunday, Paul Ballen Chris Saunders a pop-up collaboration with Dope Donuts in a leafy suburban courtyard. The Ice Cream Sunday menu changes every month with new flavours and sundaes added such as the Apple Pie, a combo of cinnamon ice cream, caramelised apples and crumble. Pair this with coffee or craft beer.QUnit 8, 16 High Rd, Bramley, www.facebook.com/icecreamsundayevent. Stockists include Warm & Glad, Wolves, Panini Brothers, Neighbourgoods Market and Love Food (all listed in Where To Eat). You can also order online at www. paulshomemadeicecream.com.

For dozens more restaurant recommendations, see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ANYONE FOR DRINKS? Keen to get a taste of Joburg? Drinks aficionado Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of the city’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and has since expanded her interest to the study, marketing and, of course, enjoyment of wine. She picks some drinks worth seeking out this season. One of the most favoured and loved Cape white blends is that of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Graham Beck is one of South Africa’s iconic producers. Better known for the bubbly that winemaker Peter Ferreira created, they have released their own take on this ‘flat Champagne’ from South Africa. It is called Gorgeous, and it truly is. With low alcohol levels and even lower sugar, it’s bliss on the lips and doesn’t sit on the hips. Released just in time for spring, it’s a great thirst quencher: crisp, fresh, slightly amber in colour and dry. The aromatics and flavour profile will linger long, evoking happy memories of the spring and summer of 2014. Also new and exciting for the summer season is a craft beer from Innis & Gunn. Craft beers are taking Joburg by storm and you will find great local offerings in some of the more trendy beer gardens and taverns. This delicious Scottish-brewed beer is aged in old whisky casks to produce an ale of distinction and class – lashings of toffee and vanilla and a loaded gun of 6.6% alcohol by volume leave you lazy and content on hot summer days. If you are heading to the bars and clubs you will need to know about the latest product from Jägermeister. It’s called Jägermeister Spice and comes with all the great flavour profiles of the original Jägermeister but with an added twist of cinnamon. Cocktail bars across the Big Smoke are pumping up the volume with this great shooter – ask for a Spice Bomb and be prepared to party! If you prefer to go the nutty route, try a Peaccaso vodka cocktail. New in South Africa, this peanutflavoured vodka is proving to be a popular straight shooter or served over crushed ice with lemonade and a twist of lemon rind. Joburg in spring offers new and exciting prospects in the beverage space, and at Norman Goodfellows we can help you make the most of them. Contact us to arrange your order to be packaged for travel and delivered to your hotel, or visit any of our shops for a comprehensive tour of the winelands – we stock almost as many labels as you’ll find if you visit the Cape itself. QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, cnr Chaplin Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za. See website for other branches. September 2014 – January 2015

Where to eat: Sandton Joburg’s best bunny chow (a South African–Indian speciality) in a spot squeezed in behind the Shell garage (cnr Rivonia and South Rds. Open 10:00–20:00, closed Sun). Driving further along Rivonia Road and into the suburbs there’s Signature, renowned for excellent seafood (Morningside Shopping Centre, cnr Rivonia and Outspan Rds, tel. +27 11 884 8888, www.signaturerestaurant.co.za), and Contessa, a cute tea shop and terrace offering an incredible selection of over 100 loose teas, plus delicious home-baked cakes (cnr Rivonia and South Rds, www.contessateashop.co.za. Open 10:00–20:00, closed Sun).

CENTRAL SANDTON Among the dizzying array of big-brand stores and fastfood chains at Sandton’s premier malls, Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square, we have picked out some culinary highlights. Sandton City’s Deli One is your stop for fantastic fresh salads, Mediterranean-inspired mains, decent coffee and super fresh-baked goods (lower level, near Woolworths, tel. +27 11 784 1897, www.delione.com). Walnut Grove has an attractive dessert display, enticing breakfast selection (until 11:00) and some of the largest portions this side of the USA (tel. +27 11 783 6111, www.walnutgrove. co.za. Open until 23:00). The decadent Belle’s Patisserie (lower level, near Edgars) has exceptional cakes – the chocolate volcano is a winner. For an evening meal with the tourist set (and excellent steaks accompanied by a superb wine list) on Nelson Mandela Square there’s the safari-inspired The Butcher Shop and Grill (tel. +27 11 784 8676, www.thebutchershop.co.za). Wang Thai is a sophisticated and much-awarded restaurant for memorable dishes (above the Mandela statue, tel. +27 11 784 8484, www.wangthai.co.za). Join the big spenders from the Michaelangelo Towers dining at Bukhara, an upmarket Indian restaurant with delicious curries (Shop 117, Nelson Mandela Square, tel. +27 11 883 5555). Then there is the lavish baroque-styled Pigalle for exceptional seafood and an extensive wine list (tel. +27 11 884 8899, pigallerestaurants.co.za). MAUDE STREET AND 24 CENTRAL Away from the mega-malls head to Maude Street and the area near the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. For a classic steak accompanied by fine red wine there’s The Bullrun (20 Maude St, tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun.co.za). For a quick stop drop by Panini Brothers for fresh sandwiches, great coffee and an opportunity to rub shoulders with Sandton’s media who’s who (tel. +27 11 783 5438, www.paninibrothers.co.za. Closed weekends). RIVONIA AND MORNINGSIDE On Grayston Drive the ambitiously named World Trade Centre houses Gwefey, a popular business lunch and romantic dinner destination with an extensive menu of Asian dishes and superb views (tel. +27 11 784 2283, www.gwefey.com). For a budget-friendly meal there’s Curry and All, a cheerful no-frills family-run business that makes what is arguably 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SANDTON NIGHTLIFE Luxury hotel rooftop bars are some of the choicest picks for drinks (see overleaf). Then there’s the busy Hard Rock Café (Nelson Mandela Square, tel. +27 11 784 3144, www. hardrock.com) with a monopoly on square-side drinking and, nearby, in Legacy Corner (entrance via Nelson Mandela Mall), an elite selection of bars: Envy, Maxim Lounge and the appropriately named (and notorious since the Oscar Pistorius trial) VIP Room nightclub, where A-listers and the minted businessmen who live in the penthouses upstairs splash their cash away on cigars and Champagne. Down Gwen Lane, 24 Central is a reliable place to sip cocktails. Grab a seat on the terrace at News Café (tel. +27 11 452 8770, www.newscafe.co.za) for weeknight people-watching, or head to the opulent Cocoon Lounge where the rich and beautiful spend their time before trying to pass through the velvet ropes into the exclusive Taboo nightclub (tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00). A little further away (take a cab or tuk-tuk) there’s the British–Irishstyle pub The Brazen Head, at its best on a Friday when office workers arrive to forget the week (cnr Linden Rd and Anne Crescent, Strathavon, tel. +27 11 783 6122, www. brazenhead.co.za). The further reaches of the Sandton suburbs aren’t the most happening area but there are a few interesting bars such as the unexpectedly hip hangout Social on Main (1 Posthouse St, off Main Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 7115, www.socialonmain.co.za) and Beerhouse for a craft-beer extravaganza in Fourways (1 Sunset Ave, cnr Witkoppen Dr, Pineslopes Boulevard, tel. +27 11 464 2402, www.beerhouse.co.za).

Beerhouse, Fourways

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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Surprising Sandton big businesses fled the upheaval of the inner city in the wake of the dismantling of apartheid for safer Sandton. Today brassy Sandton is all about business and its accessibility via the Gautrain means it’s just a 15-minute trip from O.R. Tambo International Airport and the world. A brief public art spurt in 2010, as Sandton welcomed the world for the Fifa World Cup, was halted in favour of more practical considerations – clean and safe streets, which while of course a top priority means that that the thousands of tourists that situate themselves here are encouraged to engage in more commercial than cultural pursuits. Still, there are some attractions that one should not leave without sampling.

Sir James van der Merwe, Kramerville

Charles Johnstone

You’ll know Sandton by its gleaming towers and the profusion of construction cranes towering above the central suburb as it remakes itself into a global business capital. Fifty years ago this was the ‘mink and manure’ heartland and the hunt would set off from Inanda Club, today an exclusive members-only polo club. The then head town planner described the area as a ‘community of 30 000 whites and 15 000 horses’. From rolling farmland and a pastoral idyll, Sandton then became a rest stop between Pretoria, seat of the nationalist party government, and the Gotham-like Joburg city centre. During the 1990s, many

SPOIL YOURSELF Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square have enough shopping square metres to keep any footballer’s wife enthralled. If diamonds and tanzanite are what you seek, Bryllianta is your appointmentonly destination, a plush private showroom offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop. To understand the quality and value of diamonds before you buy, visit owner Bryna Zasman for your diamond education (+27 11 784 7867, bryna@ bryllianta.com). For luxury body treatments and five-star manicures, pedicures and facials at non-Sandton prices, there’s Decadence Nail & Body Salon tucked into a discrete corridor in Sandton City (Shop L31A, Level 4, opp. Stuttafords, +27 11 784 6699, www.sandtonnails.co.za. Download the handy Decadence app for the full menu, prices and booking requests). 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

GETTING AROUND Sandton is heavily congested, with an estimated 100 000 commuters travelling to the suburb daily. Local authorities are working on transport alternatives, including cycle lanes (first ones due early 2015) and a Rea Vaya bus route (by 2018). On West Street Shesha Tuks transports people around the local area (Shesha Tuks, tel. 0861 743 742, www. sheshatuks.co.za). Cycology offers stylish electric-bike tours of Sandton’s green buildings – no lycra allowed (tel. +27 73 383 7621, www.cycology.biz. Tours start at 09.30 and 12:30 on Fridays). For a tour of Sandton’s commercial history, it’s penchant for Venetian architecture, green spaces and less obvious attractions, join Costas Constantinou of Sandton Tours (tel. + 27 76 276 7878, www. sandtontoursinfo.wozaonline.co.za). MAUDE STREET In just one city block soak up Sandton’s past, present and future as Africa’s top financial district. The gleaming mega structures of the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, Deutsche Bank and HSBC face the Protea Balalaika Hotel, once a thatch-roof tearoom for travellers from Pretoria. Today Scandinavian air crews soak up the sun in the lush, resortlike garden. Just steps away is Mam Lindy’s Fast Food caravan, serving breakfast and lunch of meat or chicken with pap and gravy on the pavement. Further along Maude Street you’ll find a small African craft market. If you take a right turn into Gwen Lane you’ll get to 24 Central with its swanky cocktail bar and nightclub and loads of upmarket restaurant options. A world in a few blocks. CULTURE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square is one of Joburg’s top shopping destinations surrounded by shops, restaurants and bars. The commercialised statue of Nelson Mandela has become a tourist selfie drawcard. The Auto & General Theatre on the Square has superb theatre productions (see What’s On) and a lunch-hour classical concert every Friday. Behind the Montego Bay restaurant is the small Peacemakers Museum (see Sightseeing) detailing the achievements of every Nobel Peace Prize winner to date and the Stephan Welz fine art auctioneers showroom johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Surprising Sandton which displays a regularly changing collection of South African masters. Also not to be missed is the African Craft Market behind the library, selling high quality handcrafted goods and souvenirs (see Shopping). HOTEL POOLS AND ROOFTOPS Escape the concrete gridlock at a rooftop bar. The San Bar is the largest, with fire pits, a pool and a view of the surrounding skyscrapers and cranes (Sandton Sun Hotel, cnr Alice Ln and 5th St). Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel’s rooftop pool bar is a convenient place to enjoy sundowners before catching a connection to the airport (cnr Rivonia Rd and West St). The nearby Empire Place apartment hotel also has a poolside bar and piano lounge (177 Empire Place, cnr Rivonia Rd). For a stylish evening or chilled Sunday afternoon, the Maslow Hotel’s lush pool deck is the perfect venue (cnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd). See Where To Stay. HYUNDAI MUSHROOM FARM PARK This park, one of the precious few public green spaces in Sandton Central, is probably one of the best in Joburg. Popular with families, it has picnic areas, a playground and paved trails. Exercise junkies can pump up at the open-air gym and for an incredible view of the area take a short hot-air balloon ride (Daisy St, off Rivonia Rd, opposite Radisson Blu Hotel. Open 08:00–18:00, Hyundai balloon ride costs R95, R65 for kids under 10). 11TH STREET, BENMORE A few blocks from the malls is a low-rise strip of restaurants, among them the excellent Delhi Dharbar (tel. +27 11 883 4407, www.delhidharbar.co.za) and Swad (tel. +27 11 784 5430, www.swad.co.za) for Indian food, the West African restaurant Hombaze (tel. +27 11 783 0366, next to the boxing club) and the fine-dining favourite Eatery JHB (cnr 11th St and Victoria Ave, tel. +27 11 783 1570, www.eateryjhb.co.za). MANDELA’S SANDTON Nelson Mandela stayed here briefly both before and after his imprisonment on Robben Island. In the early 1960s he stayed on a farm in Rivonia (8km north of central Sandton), which was then the secret headquarters of the anti-apartheid movement and is now the excellent Liliesleaf Farm Museum (see Sightseeing). Following his release from prison in 1994, Mandela stayed at the property where the beautiful Saxon Hotel Villas & Spa is now while editing his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za). KRAMERVILLE DESIGN DISTRICT Besides being Joburg’s most cutting-edge home furnishings and design district, Kramerville, a 10-minute drive from central Sandton, also has the spectacular-looking Katy’s Palace Bar, which is open for lunch on the first facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Sunday of every month. One floor below is the Sir James van der Merwe bar, featured on our cover and open every Wednesday night (6 Desmond St, tel. +27 72 607 4235, katyspalacebar.co.za). Both are worth visiting for the view and décor alone. On the first Saturday of every month, visit the design and food truck market Collective (cnr Desmond and Kramer St, tel. +27 83 967 8995, www. collective-jhb.com). Safari nuts will love Melvill and Moon for fine hand-crafted accessories such as satchels, camping chairs and leather binocular cases (4 Desmond St, tel. +27 11 262 5030, www.melvillandmoon.com). Enjoy a light meal or coffee on its stoep, provided by Fabled Foods (tel. +27 82 436 0970). REST STOPS While public art here is mostly private art hidden in corporate headquarters, private gardens and courtyards, a project to create a series of 10 corporatesponsored artist benches in Sandton Central is worth looking out for. Louie Olivier’s ’Differently. Think’ is a concrete bench with two pensive life-size bronze figures (for Rand Merchant Bank on Fredman Drive), while along Rivonia Road, facing the Hilton Hotel, you’ll find award-winning artist Nandipha Mntambo’s bench, a series of colourful metal lines representing a financial graph of profit and loss. Metres away sits ‘junkyard artist’ Willie Bester’s seat made of disused agricultural parts.

SANDTON STATISTICS • Within the next three years, an additional 10 000 vehicles and 27 000 people will commute to central Sandton every day • Central Sandton has 1.5 million square metres of office space, which will increase to 1.9 million m² by 2017 • Most commuters live within a 7km radius of Sandton • In the early 2000s new apartments sold for about R10 000/m² and in 2014 for about R40 000/m² • Some of the most striking new buildings include the glass-and-grass-fronted Webber Wentzel Attorneys and EY buildings opposite the Gautrain station, the rhombus-shaped Alice Lane building with a luxury rooftop Virgin Active gym, and the curvy 17-storey twin Alice Lane Towers with distinctive chequerboard sides, all of which hold green building status Sources: #DecongestSandton, Johns Lang LaSalle, Arup transport planning. Photo: Paragon Architects

September 2014 – January 2015

20 years of Tourism Excellence

s, Joburg has grown of levels – including grades and unique ke the high speed Rapid Transit system, stadiums, increased ficent award-winning .

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lethora of business, ashion and lifestyle

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Top ten places to visit in Joburg A trip to Joburg is not complete if you haven’t ticked off our list of top ten places to visit: •

Soweto

•

Apartheid

•

Gold

Museum

Reef City

•

Newtown

•

Walter

Precinct

Sisulu National Botanical Gardens

•

Johannesburg

•

Braamfontein

•

Liliesleaf

•

Constitution

•

Maboneng

Zoo

Farm Hill Precinct

Africa’s most vibrant,

info@joburgtourism.com w w w. j o b u r g t o u r i s m . c o m Tel: +27 (0) 11 214 0700

Authentic Alexandra GETTING TO ALEX

Chilling in Alex

Heather Mason

Townships generally are painful reminders of South Africa’s segregated history and while much upgrading and improvement has taken place since 1994, many places still bear vivid scars. Talking about Alexandra, or ‘Alex’, as it is locally known, Nechama Brodie writes in The Joburg Book: ‘Its bustling pockmarked landscape is testimony to decades of political battles, shifting communities and the economics of daily survival.’ Alex is Joburg’s oldest township. In 1904 a Mr Papenfus sought to establish a white suburb named after his wife. The distance from the city centre put a spoke in his plan, and he offered the land to black buyers. Alex was proclaimed a ‘native township’ in 1912, one of the few areas where black people could own land. Today Alex assaults the senses. Old Alex is a confusing maze of higgledy-piggledy housing and shackland clinging to the banks of the Jukskei River, side by side with the newer upmarket suburb of East Bank. Bounded on one side by the down-at-heel Louis Botha Avenue, a main north–south thoroughfare, and, on the other, a major highway, this area of just 6.9km2 has an estimated population of 180 000. Its narrow streets seethe with life and colour and people – so many people. Vividly painted storefronts are tucked in among the houses, offering everything from fashion to healing muti, churches to tuckshops, driving-lessons kiosks and hair salons. Goats make their way across the main thoroughfares and uncollected garbage is piled high along the streets where taxis jostle with youngsters driving at cruising speed, music blaring from open windows. A fraction of Soweto’s size, Alex’s character easily makes up for what it lacks in scale. We’ve heard people from Soweto joke that Alex is the place Sowetans go to for a ‘real’ township experience. Read on for our best recommendations.

Street crossing

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Heather Mason

Located just across the M1 highway from downtown Sandton, Alex is within easy reach by car or via the Gautrain station at Marlboro (where secure parking is available). By 2017 Alex’s distance from the city centre will be consigned to history because a new Rea Vaya bus route will link the township to the city centre via Louis Botha Avenue, and then on to Sandton. A pedestrian bridge will also soon connect Alex to its wealthy sister suburb, giving life to the city’s vision of Corridors of Freedom, a coherent public transport network to create a united city. We don’t recommend that you visit Alex without a local guide.

TOURS AND LOCAL GUIDES ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS Charming founder Jeff Malaudzi meets visitors at Marlboro Gautrain station taking small groups on two- or four-hour cycling tours to see several historic sites that are not easy to explore on foot because of the distances. You’ll visit a shebeen (an informal tavern) to sample home-brewed beer and get a taste of kota, a popular township dish: hollowedout quarter-sized loaves of bread filled with meat, cheese, chips and spicy atchar.QTel. + 27 71 279 3654, www.alexandratours.co.za. Tours R300–R400. MABONENG TOWNSHIP ARTS EXPERIENCE Where once there was Dark City, there is now Maboneng, meaning ‘place of light’ – not to be confused with the inner-city district. Started in 2001 by Siphiwe Ngwenya, Maboneng gives township artists a way to exhibit their work by displaying it in people’s homes. The ‘art galleries’ are located in several houses structured around a communal yard, and the tour gives fascinating insights into the everyday lives of Alexandrans. Over the years Maboneng has grown to include art workshops, tours, graffiti projects and an annual festival, and also operates in townships in other parts of the country.QTel. +27 21 824 1773, www.maboneng.com. TOUR 2.0 Specialising in tours run by local community members, this new and innovative start-up offers a cultural and historical Alex adventure titled Lights, Gangs And All That Jazz, led by local resident and guide Asanda Daza. The tour includes lunch with a local jazz band, a short movie screening at the incredible 1950s 35mm cinema Kings – surely one of the last of its kind in Africa – and a meeting with the grandson of one of old Alex’s most notorious gangsters. Tour 2.0 also operates in Soweto and the city centre.QTel. +27 12 770 3608, www.tour2-0.com. KHAVO TRAVEL & TOURISM Local guide Rachel Phasha organises custom tours. When the distances are too far to walk, she uses local taxis, referred to as ‘cockroaches’ because there are so many of them crawling around Alex. Tours start at R350.Q665 Pretoria Main Rd, Unit 5, Rainbow Corner, Wynberg, tel. +27 11 882 3406, www.khavho.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Authentic Alexandra

Jeff Malaudzi’s Alexandra Bicycle Tours

Small businesses add flavour to Alex’s streets

SPEAR OF THE NATION Robin Binckes has been offering tours of Alex for the past 13 years. A consummate storyteller, his knowledge of local history will bring to life the township’s political struggles, gangster history and fascinating church culture. You’ll even pay a visit to a local traditional-medicine healer. Binckes also started and supports an NGO, Friends of Alexandra, which focuses on the welfare of Alexandra’s children. His Alex tour is combined with a visit to the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill (half-day or full-day).QTel. +27 83 395 7027, www.spearofthenation.co.za.

DÉ GRANDIOSE RESTAURANT AND BAR Don’t be fooled by the bland location. This spot is happening and draws young professionals from Alex and Sandton, with its high-end décor, DJs, multiple decks and amazing sunset views. The Mzansi African buffet (R50) includes traditional fare like dombolo (dumplings) and mogudu (tripe with vegetables).Q713 Pretoria Main Rd, tel. +27 11 809 8234, www. degrandiose.webs.com. Open 10:00–02:00. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. R.

SIGHTS BLUE PLAQUES Alex’s many heritage sites are marked with blue plaques. These include the homes of political activists, former gang leaders and historic music venues and churches. The most famous plaque is at Nelson Mandela’s first home in Johannesburg. Along Richard Baloyi Street are several sites, including the PLD Hall, Alexandra’s first community hall, and the Msomi Gang’s headquarters, from where the gang terrorised the community during the 1950s. To see the complete list go to www.blueplaques.co.za. IKASI GYM Bodybuilder and artist Tumi Masite’s iKasi Gym, supported by Virgin Active after a visit by Richard Branson, is a dimly-lit and well-worn space. Masite and his crew of Alex muscle men recently won an arm-wrestling championship in Japan. With upper arms the size of brandy kegs, the musclemen also work as bouncers and VIP protection to support their training. Pop in to see some of Masite’s artworks and get some friendly training advice.QRichard Baloyi St, between 6th and 7th Aves.

RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, BARS CLUB NEH This smartly decorated restaurant and nightclub is Alex’s classiest hangout. The outdoor seating area overlooks Alex, making it perfect for sundowners. An easy taxi ride from the Marlboro Gautrain station.Q57 5th St, tel. +27 87 940 6652. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. R-RR. B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

JOE’S BUTCHERY One of the most popular shisa nyama restaurants, Joe’s also sells beverages and prepared side items, like pap and salad. The seating is casual and outdoors; a DJ spins tunes on Sundays and hundreds flock here in flashy cars. Parking is tricky. QCnr 11th Ave and Alfred Nzo St (formerly Roosevelt St), tel. +27 76 584 7421. R. B MALOKE B&B RESTAURANT AND CLUB JAZZ Founded two decades ago as a venue for teaching and performing jazz, the club has hosted legendary jazz performances and serves as an event space, B&B, restaurant, and music school. Call ahead to find out what’s scheduled.Q61 7th Ave, tel. +27 84 800 1888.

ALEX FACTS • Famous former residents include trumpeter Hugh Masekela, penny-whistler Jack Lerole, artist David Koloane, writer Mongane Wally Serote, and former first lady Zanele Mbeki. • The most famous former resident was Nelson Mandela, who described Alex as ‘exhilarating and precarious’. His address at 46 7th Ave (cnr Richard Baloyi St) is known as Mandela’s Yard but its status as a heritage site has been neglected. • Known for many years as Dark City because there was no street lighting or electricity in homes. • Alex has at different times been a hotspot of resistance to apartheid, a hotbed of gangsterism, and in 2008 was the site of xenophobic attacks against ‘foreigners’. September 2014 – January 2015

Nightlife JAZZIN’ JOZI Author, curator and culture critic Bongani Madondo writes for Rolling Stone, the New York Times and Mail & Guardian. His latest book is I’m Not Your Weekend Special: The Life+Style & Politics of Brenda Fassie (Picador Africa), an edited collection of memoirs and essays on the late pop diva. This is his list of what you need to know about jazz in Johannesburg. Picture by Tseliso Monaheng 1. KOHINOOR WORLD OF MUSIC The oldest and most iconic record shop in the city. A family business founded by Oom Rashid Vally, music producer and promoter credited with bringing Dollar Brand to Johannesburg in the late 1950s and spreading the jazz love for generations, this store deserves heritage status.QC4/5, 163-6 Albertina Sisulu Rd, +27 11 834 1361. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. 2. THE ORBIT JAZZ CLUB Sure it’s a bit tres-chic, and yes, it’s in vogue and your New Money show-offs have taken to it in a huge way, but this new Braamfontein venue is still the most important, spacious, professional and centrally located jazz joint Johannesburg has had since the ushering in of a democratic dispensation.QC-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein. +27 11 339 6645. Open 11:30–02:00. Closed Mon. 3. CARLO MOMBELLI Bassist, composer and educator Mombelli is, quite frankly, one of the few remaining jazz and music innovators and performers. His ‘world music’ experimental flourishes and spiritual as well as electronic-genre tangents gift his music with beautiful textures and colours. He lives in Melville and performs across the country (see www.carlomombelli.com). 4. JAZZ IMAGE CHRONICLER VICTOR DLAMINI Primarily a portrait photographer, his work on the live circuit possesses the same alertness and empathy with the subject as the work of the 1950s-60s Jazz Photography Masters. Together with Oscar Gutierrez and Muntu Vilakazi, Dlamini is one of the reigning trio of premium music lensmen in this town (www.victordlamini.com).

5. THE JAZZ PIONEERS Johannesburg should count its blessings that it still has within its midst iconic names such as Hugh Masekela, Caiphus Semenya & Letta Mbulu, Jonas Gwangwa, and the last of Sophiatown 1950s grand dames of song, Dorothy Masuka, Thandi Klaasen and Abigail Khubeka. Masekela is quite simply James Brown’s heir as ‘the hardest working musician alive’, with over 250 live gigs overseas. Sightings of him on local stages are rare. Catch him when you can. The others are still dependable virtuosos at local festivals. 6. BASSLINE Still a major live-music space in Newtown, in this city and in this country. Nothing compares.QB-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, +27 11 838 9142, www.bassline.co.za Open only for performances (see What’s On). 7. JAZZ LOVERS Never mind that in South Africa hip-hop and house music DJs pass for jazz acts and that the die-hard fans have to contend with kwaito masses at jazz festivals, it’s the people who still offer hope that this city will reclaim the tradition and glory it once had in the heady days of Dorkay House, Rev. Trevor Huddleston, and the most famous jazz revue to come out of this city, Todd Matshikiza’s ‘all-African jazz opera’, King Kong. 8. JOY OF JAZZ The annual spring jazz festival this year moves to Sandton, bringing back the most talented and experienced female jazz singer alive in the post-golden age of jazz, Dianne Reeves, as a headline act (see What’s On). 9. GWEN ANSELL Gwen Ansell is the doyenne of South African jazz journalism and is the only critic musicians hold in esteem, even though most bitch that she doesn’t get them. Her midweek jazz column in Business Day (www.BDLive.co.za) is required reading. 10. JAZZ IN THE CRADLE This annual spring-summer live jazz picnic has been racking up kudos since it was piloted five years ago. A joint venture by Joburg’s Gallery MoMo (www.gallerymomo.com) and the Nirox Foundation, it is held at the latter’s sculpture park in the Cradle of Humankind and has become a muchanticipated date on the jazz calendar.

Jazz greats: Carlo Mombelli, Rashid Vally, Hugh Masekela and Gloria Bosman

38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that nightlife areas are spread across the city. For bar-crawling try Greenside’s Gleneagles Road, which is usually filled with bachelor parties and wild students; Melville’s 7th Street, with dozens of venues catering to both students and local professionals; or the area around Juta and De Beer Streets in Braamfontein, which is steadily growing into a trendy and edgy nightlife hub. Wherever you go, make sure that if you are driving you stay sober or take a taxi. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18. Credit cards are accepted everywhere unless otherwise stated.

BRAAMFONTEIN

Hard Rock Café, Sandton

ANTI EST A sharp-looking joint with a great terrace for people-watching. Perfect for fans of complex cocktails, craft beer, cool design and good music. An upmarket and sophisticated atmosphere make this a grown-up alternative to Braamfontein’s nearby student bars. As they say at the door: ‘Unlearn everything you know.’QCnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 74 187 2421. Open Wed–Fri 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00. Closed Sun–Tue. B

CITY CENTRE

GREAT DANE The interior is so dark and the courtyard so crowded you’ll barely notice the many quirky details, such as the floor plastered in five-cent coins and the DJ booth built with old briefcases. But no doubt you will be too busy dancing with your cool new best friends to care. After 9pm expect a queue and a cover charge.QC-3, 5 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1136. Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00. B LAMUNU RESTAURANT AND BAR A great place to get a feel for Braamfontein’s successful regeneration. The interiors reflect the area’s new artistic edge, and the wide terrace overlooking the attractive Grove piazza is a popular space to enjoy urban sundowners while DJs spin house beats.QC-2/3, The Grove, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 489 1910, www. lamunu.co.za. Open daily 07:00–22:00. B THE BEACH A manmade beach on an inner-city rooftop where the Moscow Mule cocktail is the house speciality. Opens at lunchtime every Saturday for post-Neighbourgoods Market lounging. As the sun sets the DJs crank up the volume to create a party mood.Q68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 492 1440. Open Sat 12:00–19:00. THE CONCEPT FACTORY So underground it doesn’t even have a proper name. The rooftop club hosts regular pop-up parties – check Facebook for details. The industrial décor, with jet engines hanging from the ceilings, lends a warehouse-rave feel. Guarded parking at Arbour car park on Juta Street.QC-3, 11th floor, 17 Wolmarans St, Braamfontein. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CARFAX This underground club in an old factory has been around for decades. After a brief hiatus, Carfax relaunched in early 2014, no doubt spurred by the increasing number of students living nearby, with a new sound system and revamped courtyard area. It now hosts regular all-night dance parties and live-music events.QB-4, 39 Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 83 288 0428, www. facebook.com/CarfaxJHB/. B ELEVATE Towering 16 floors above the heart of the city centre, Elevate has a very special view and sexy interiors to match. Usually open only for special themed weekend club nights, it is advisable to check beforehand what parties are planned.QD-5, 16th floor, Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street, City Centre, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www. reefhotels.co.za. B

MABONENG PATA PATA Inspired by the 1960s township jazz scene, Pata Pata is filled with eclectic second-hand bric-a-brac and big vintage sofas, perfect for sinking into with your Ethiopian coffee and a light lunch. At night an abundance of candles and live jazz-funk music, creates a simultaneously upbeat and romantic atmosphere, ideal for cocktails with friends or a bottle of wine with someone special.QG-4, 286 Fox St (Main Street Life), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 73 036 9031. Open 08:00–23:00. EBW ZEBRA INN Perfect if you need a change from Maboneng’s trendy, artsy scene over on Main Street. After being buzzed in you’ll find yourself in a room wall-to-wall in the taxidermied heads of almost 100 African animals. Owner Swazi Werner is a legend and his bar is fabulously cheap and grungy with a motley crew of locals propping up the bar, playing pool and sinking money into the jukebox.QG-4, 252 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Kruger St), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 494 7763. Open daily from 11:00. May – August 2014

Nightlife GREENSIDE & THE PARKS GIN RESTAURANT & BAR Unashamedly grungy, this cavernous place draws in students like moths to a flame with cheap drinks and cheesy pop-rock music. Arrive early to find a table on the balcony overlooking the chaos of the bar and the busy street below. A hedonistic youngsters’ hangout where anything goes.Q12 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 79 524 8303, www.gingin.co.za. Open 15:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B

COCKTAILS & CHAMPAGNE

JOLLY COOL/ JOLLY ROGER There are actually two Jollys on either side of the street: Jolly Cool has streetside seating, pool tables and a giant sports screen, while the Jolly Roger resembles an old-fashioned pub. Both get smokey and rowdy when the students are out.QCnr 4th Ave and 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 327 5883. Open 12:00–02:00, Mon 16:00–02:00. BW MISH MASH Pretty fairy light garlands, pot plants and blonde wood cladding can’t fully disguise that this beer garden is in fact a car park, but still it is a great place to hang out and flirt. Despite selling ludicrously cheap wine, things somehow manage to stay sane and relatively chilled.Q20 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 026 2915. Open 16:00-02:00, Sat 11:30–02:00, Sun 11:30–22:00. Closed Mon. BW

MELVILLE JO’ANNA MELT BAR Boasting a finely curated vintage aesthetic and craft-beer menu, a massive bar dominates the space, making ordering a drink or flirting with the bar staff considerably easier. A more mature and sophisticated hangout on Melville’s party strip.Q7 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 72 733 5966. Open 12:00 until late. Closed Mon. B Lenin’s Vodka Bar

Sally Shorkend

LENIN’S VODKA BAR For vodka fans with a fondness for Mother Russia – without the gulags – the moodily lit interior, comfortable couches, delicious snacks and excellent menu of vodka cocktails make this a great after-hours hangout. On Sundays brunch is served.Q300 Commissioner St, Maboneng (Maverick Corner), http://lenins.co.za. Open Wed–Sat 16:30–late, Sun 11:00–late. LEVEL FOUR CHAMPAGNE BAR Champagne is an all-time favourite drink and Level Four Restaurant and Champagne Bar at 54 on Bath Hotel is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of wellchilled bubbles.Q54 on Bath Boutique Hotel, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www. tsogosunhotels.com. LIQUID CHEFS One of the first bars in Joburg to promote mixology, the Liquid Chefs still know how to rustle up decent cocktails. A popular pre-party venue for the young and fashionable, weekends are the busiest with DJs spinning the decks and an extremely crowded dance floor inside.QThe Zone@Rosebank (ground floor), tel. +27 11 447 6412, liquidchefs.co.za/venue. Open 11:00–02:00, Mon 14:00-22:00, Wed–Thu 11:00– 23:00. BW 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

RATZ Fun and friendly and one of the mainstays of the everchanging Melville bar strip. The music is a gay-friendly, danceable mix of 1980s pop, rock and disco, and staff make you feel like they’re friends. Early on it’s a good place for warm-up drinks; come midnight the tables are cleared and the dancing commences.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9965, www.ratzbar.co.za. Open 16:00– 02:00, Fri,Sat 15:00–02:00. BW STANLEY BEER YARD Found inside the pretty courtyards of 44 Stanley is one of the city’s most attractive beer gardens, specialising in craft beer and German-inspired food. Inside is a gorgeous hunting-lodge style interior with leather armchairs, antique curios and a huge log fire and outside long tables sit beneath the olive trees.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open Tue– Thu 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Closed Mon. EBW

ROSEBANK AND MELROSE CHURCHILLS A British gastro-pub style menu that also lists expertly made cocktails and an impressive wine selection. Moody lighting, jazzy house music, a library-style cigar room and a luxurious modern British décor attract a well-heeled crowd. The atmosphere becomes more club-like late on weekends and a cover charge applies.Q2nd Floor, Melrose Piazza, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1040, www.churchillsbar.co.za. Open 14:30 until late. Closed Mon. LW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife KATZY’S A slinky, stylish and all-round sophisticated joint recalling the atmosphere of an old Chicago jazz club. Order one of their fine malt whiskies and a vintage cigar, sink into a big leather couch and enjoy it.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ln, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.katzys.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00. Closed Sun. KONG Very popular upscale nightclub ‘catering to the elite and sexy’. If that sounds like you, you’ll fit in here among the city’s rich and beautiful set, with footballers and part-time models aplenty. Friday is urban night with R&B and hiphop on the decks; Saturdays are for fans of house, dance and electro.QCnr Jan Smuts and Tyrwhitt Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0993, www.kongsa.co.za. Open Fri–Sat 21:00–05:00.

CASINOS For those attracted by 24/7 activity, slot machines, highstakes poker and gaming, there are more than enough casinos to keep your bank balance in check. Travel the world by heading to the Roman-themed Emperor’s Palace conveniently located next to O.R. Tambo International Airport (64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za); the olde-Johannesburginspired Gold Reef City in the direction of Soweto (cnr Northern Parkway and Data Crescent, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za), or the mega entertainment Toscana restaurant and casino complex Montecasino in Fourways, serviced by a weekend bus from Sandton Gautrain station (cnr William Nicol Drv and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7000, www. montecasino.co.za.).

GAY AND LESBIAN It’s an oft-heard lament that Joburg’s gay scene lacks the oomph it once had, when, ironically, South Africa didn’t have a Constitution protecting gay rights. Today no one part of the city is gay Joburg but many venues are proud to be gay-friendly. In Melville head to Ratz (11 7th St, +27 11 482 9965, www.ratzbar.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00. Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00), or there is Amuse Café in Linden, also popular as a live-music venue (34 5th St, cnr 4th Ave, +27 84 5555 252. Closed Mon. Open 12:00–24:00). On the first Friday of the month The Grillshop (Newmarket St, off Witkoppen Rd, opposite Deco Park, Fourways, tel. +27 82 894 6114, www.1stgaygirl.co.za, Open 20:00–03:15) hosts the 1st Friday Exclusive Gay Girl Club. For pounding trance music and sexy barmen grinding on the counter tops in nothing but their Y-fronts, charming gays, straights and lesbians alike, try Babylon (Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3215. Open 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue) next door to Joburg’s saucy gay burger bar Beefcakes (closed Mon. Open 12:00 until late). For the ulimate opportunity to glam it up, don’t miss Johannesburg Pride 2014’s after-party on October 25 (www.johannesburgpride.co.za). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HISTORIC PUBS Pub time has been a Joburg institution since the first dusty miners washed up in the city to seek their fortunes. The oldest ones are gathered near Ferreirasdorp in the city centre, where the first mining tent camp was pitched. The members-only Rand Club, established in 1887, lays claim to the oldest bar, Main Bar, said to be the longest in Africa and now open to all on Thursday evenings (D-5, 33 Loveday St, tel. +27 11 870 4260, www.randclub.co.za). Around the block you’ll find the Guildhall Pub dating back to 1888. What began as a dodgy hangout grew from a tin shack into a fashionable spot with colonial-style balconies and pressed ceilings. Nowadays there’s a permanent crowd and the balcony is popular for a cheap lunch and a great view (D-4, cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Harrison St, Library Square Gardens, tel. +27 11 833 1770. Open 11:00 until last guest). Opened in 1905 as part of a grand hotel, today the slightly worn Kitchener’s Carvery and Bar is one of the most fun places in town, famous for weekend DJ parties and attracting a young creative crowd (C-3, cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166). In 1929 the now Radium Beerhall opened as a tearoom and secret shebeen serving liquor to black workers. Fans enjoy the Radium’s tasty Portuguese food and live music (282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. Open 10:00– 23:30, Sat 11:00 until last guest. Closed Sun). Built in the 1930s the Zoo Lake Bowls Club‘s interiors are as vintage as its prices. The adjacent park remained open to all races throughout apartheid, and the club always had a distinctly multiracial clientele (Princess of Wales Terrace, Zoo Lake, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. Open daily 11:00–23:00). The Bender’s Arms dates to the 1940s and the regular crowd looks like they never left this down-at-heel, subterranean hangout (D-5, 3 Rissik St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 834 7233. Open Mon– Fri from 10:00 until last guest. Closed Sat, Sun). For an increasingly rare smoker’s paradise there’s Lords Bar, opened when Sandton was still a farm. The pub’s interiors are not original, but part of a 1989 refurbishment of the old Cock & Hen which opened in the 1950s (Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, 20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.balalaika.co.za. Open 10:00–23:00).

De Beer Street, the location of Kitchener’s, in a long-gone Joburg

September 2014 – January 2015

Sightseeing CULINARY TOURS If you are the kind of person who will travel anywhere for food you will love Ancient Secrets culinary tours that visit fascinating and distinct areas of the city such as Chinatown, Indian Fordsburg and Little Addis to explore an incredible mixture of cultures and cuisines.QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets.co.za.

Trevor Huddleston mural, Sophiatown

SIX GREAT JOBURG TOURS To explore the city take a walking tour. From history to cuisine and street art, local guides can let you in on Joburg’s otherwise best-kept secrets. AFRICAN JOBURG For unique insights into the diverse African communities living in the inner city neighbourhoods of Berea and Yeoville, and an opportunity to visit one of the most famous landmarks of Johannesburg’s skyline, Ponte, join Dlala Nje (Let’s Play). For an exhilirating experience, sign up for ‘Jozi: The Amazing Place’, a two-day immersion experience based on the Amazing Race.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org.

EVEN MORE TOURS Learn about the city’s queer history and the struggle for LGBT rights in South Africa with GALA – the Gay and Lesbian Archives ( tel. +27 11 717 4239). For sporting history take a tour around the FNB Stadium or Ellis Park. For cycling try Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tours (tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobicycletours. com), Alexandra Bicycle Tours (tel. +27 71 279 3654, www.alexandratours.co.za) or contact Cycology (www. cycology.biz, tel. +27 82 890 8767) about an electric-bike tour. To guide yourself around by bus jump on the City Sightseeing Bus (tel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Buses leave from Park Station Gautrain bus stop every 30-40 minutes from 09:00–15:40. No buses between 22.12 and 07.01).

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SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE For a fresh perspective on apartheid history, join the Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre trail. Experience the stories and lives of the musicians, writers and activists who grew up in this vibrant community before it became a victim of the forced removals policy in 1955. Iconic photography and oral history bring Sophiatown back to life.Q73 Toby St, Cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, www.sophiatown. net. Tours Sat at 11:00 or by arrangement. STREET ART AND GRAFFITI Delve into the exciting street-art scene with Jo Buitendach of Past Experiences. Closely involved in the local graffiti community, Buitendach will take you to locations that you wouldn’t otherwise find and regularly brings along local street artists to explain the works. Even sceptics have been known to leave this tour passionate about the art form. QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. PUB CRAWL Youthful, hip and energetic, Bheki Dube and his crew from MainStreetWalks put the regeneration of downtown Joburg into vivid context with their monthly bar crawl tour that takes visitors out to the coolest new urban bars, neighbourhood shebeens, legendary pubs and hot rooftop parties. You will long to return.QTel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za. URBAN SWIMMING POOLS Joburg Places’ swimming pools tour is the perfect way to explore the city on a hot summer’s day while learning about its turbulent history. Gerald Garner, author of Joburg Places and Sandton Places, has desgined a tour that takes in spectacular inner-city rooftops, Olympic-size public pools and trendy pool decks in the hippest new urban neighbourhoods.QTel. +27 82 894 5216, www. joburgplaces.com. From mid-December to early January, many Joburg businesses close. Call before visiting.

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Sightseeing CITY OF GOLD Joburg was built on gold – literally it sits on the edge of the world’s largest known gold deposit. And since the first discovery in 1886 the search for gold has shaped the mentality of the city, a hustler’s paradise with a whiff of lawlessness, a magnet for adventurers and opportunists alike. People still flock here hoping to strike it rich. To relive the history, follow this trail. RAND CLUB Founded in 1887 as a members-only club, this grand place harks back to British colonial style and fabulously rich mining magnates. Nowadays the club welcomes all sexes and races (as long as you obey the smart dress code) and hosts regular non-member events. Highlights of this fabulous place include the beautiful library, the billiards room with its taxidermied hunting trophies, the grand staircase, and the Main Bar said to be the longest wooden bar in Africa where beer is still served in tankards.QD-5, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 870 4260, www.randclub.co.za. Thu evenings are open to all. ERNEST OPPENHEIMER PARK This small green space behind the historic Rissik Street Post Office is named after the famous South African mining tycoon. It was restored in 2010 to include a basketball court and numerous public artworks, among them the Oppenheimer Diamond. An impala sculpture pays homage to the original leaping impalas at Anglo American’s headquarters nearby, which were rescued after being stolen and hacked up for scrap.QD-4/5, Cnr Joubert and Commissioner Sts, City Centre. MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT Walk along this pedestrianised street, from the Carlton Centre to Chancellor House, to see the covered wagons, stamp presses and old headgear that dot the route along with the headquarters of global mining giants. The beautiful facade of Anglo American is a highlight, as are the leaping impala statues along the brick walkway. On weekdays office workers enjoy the street cafés, and the presence of mining companies ensures that the area is safe, clean and pleasant to explore. Stop at Cramers for coffee (cnr Harrison and Main Sts) and at the Standard Bank building

Impalas, Ernest Oppenheimer Park

(5 Simmonds St) to see an old mine tunnel, Ferreira’s Stope, uncovered in the 1980s (open during banking hours).QC/D-5, Main St, City Centre. WORKERS’ MUSEUM The Newtown workers’ compound was built in 1913 for male African migrant workers at the nearby power plant. Housing 300 men in just nine rooms, the conditions were appalling. Closed in the early 1980s, it is now a museum detailing the struggles and hardships of migrant workers and pays homage to their important role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.QB-4, 52 Jeppe St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 336 9190. Open 09:00–16.30. Closed Mon. Admission free. GOLD REEF CITY Visit this gold-rush theme park to ride the Tower of Terror and go on the Story of Gold tour which includes a goldsmelting demonstration. Fifteen minutes' drive from City Centre.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Crescent, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open 09:30-17:00 (Oct 4–12; Dec–Jan 10). Out of season Wed–Sun 09:30–17:00. Tickets R165. CULLINAN PREMIER DIAMOND MINE Tour this working mine (two hours) to see where the world’s largest diamond was discovered and have lunch on the town’s pretty main street. About 45 minutes' drive from City Centre.QOak Ave, Cullinan, tel. +27 12 734 0081, www.diamondtourscullinan.co.za.

ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING Whether you are in Joburg for a few hours or many days, these are the highlights to choose from: • Take a walking tour of downtown Joburg • Discover why Joburg is known as the City of Gold • Tread in Nelson Mandela’s footsteps • Visit Soweto to see the sites and meet the people • Experience a weekend market (see Shopping)

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September 2014 – January 2015

Sightseeing GANDHI’S JOBURG Mahatma Gandhi came to South Africa in 1893 and lived in Joburg from 1903–13. He initially worked as a lawyer and the former location of the city’s law courts has been renamed Gandhi Square in his honour. A small statue of the young Gandhi as a lawyer looks out over what is now a busy commuter bus terminus. Over time he became active in the politics of resistance and his activism and philosophy profoundly influenced the fight against apartheid. On August 16, 1906, he led 3 000 supporters – among them Muslims, Hindus and Christians – to Hamidia Mosque (Jennings St, Fordsburg) where they burned their ‘pass’ documents (restrictive papers forced on all people classed ‘non-white’). The place is now marked by Usha Seejarim’s symbolic sculpture. Two years later Gandhi was jailed for his refusal to carry a pass book, and spent two months in Constitution Hill prison. The excellent Gandhi: Prisoner of Conscience exhibition in the old prison block details his experiences. From 1908-09 Gandhi moved into a modest home in Orchards, living a simple, meditative life and focusing on developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha, passive resistance and non-violent civil disobedience. The house is now the Satyagraha Guesthouse and Museum, an exquisite, tranquil space offering visitors an opportunity to contemplate the significance of this extraordinary figure (15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse. com. Open 10:30–16:00).

Gandhi by Anton Momberg (2012)

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

10 MANDELA SITES Joburg is indelibly associated with the life of Nelson Mandela and there are numerous places where he left his mark. SA Tourism has produced an excellent interactive map of these sites nationwide at http://mandela.southafrica.net/ map. In Joburg, visit these 10 key sites that shaped Madiba’s life and legacy. 1. APARTHEID MUSEUM This extraordinary museum with its landmark architecture brings to life the horrors of apartheid from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence. Powerful displays and interactive elements tell the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. + 27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets R65; students, pensioners R50; under-18s R20 (not recommended for children younger than 10). 2. CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little museum with its window exhibits was once the offices of the first black law firm in the city – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952–56 that fought apartheid’s restrictions on black life. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of Mandela as a boxer. A perfect selfie opportunity. Plan a 20-minute visit.QC-5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. 3. CONSTITUTION HILL This complex includes The Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court, revealing some of the darkest hours of 20th-century South Africa, while also showcasing the optimistic future enshrined in the modern Court. Mandela was one of the few black prisoners kept at the Fort. A fascinating range of exhibits tells the many stories of the notable figures who passed through this place. Visitors can attend court hearings.QD-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www.constitutionhill.org.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Entrance to the complex and court is free. Tours from R40. Rea Vaya bus C-3 to Constitution Hill or a 15-minute walk from Park Station. 4. DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of fascinating thematic displays that cover key events including the AngloZulu War, the Anglo-Boer War, South Africa’s role in the world wars, and the anti-apartheid armed resistance movements such as Umkhonto we Sizwe, the armed wing of the African National Congress. Mandela was co-founder of this organisation, known as ‘MK’. Plan a two-hour visit. Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www.ditsong.org.za. Open daily 09:00–16:30. Tickets: R25, senior citizens and children R15. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing 5. LILIESLEAF FARM In the early 1960s the idyllic Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia functioned as the secret hideout and meeting place for prominent anti-apartheid leaders. It was here that plans for an armed struggle, which eventually led Mandela and many of his comrades into prison, were formulated. Interactive exhibits offer fascinating insights into the amazing story of the Rivonia raid and trial. Plan for two hours plus. Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www. liliesleaf.co.za. Open daily 09:00–16:00. Closed 25.12, 26.12, 01.01. Tickets R60, children 8–17 years old R30. Guided tours from R110. 6. MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house with his second wife, Winnie, in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Inside, the small rooms are filled with memorabilia belonging to the pair. Plan a 20-minute visit.Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 7754, www. mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Closed on 25.12. Tickets R60 (citizens of African Union countries R40), kids over six R20, kids under six R5. 7. NELSON MANDELA BRIDGE The city’s most impressive post-1994 landmark was completed in 2003. At night it lights up with the colours of the rainbow. At 284m in length it is the biggest cable-stayed bridge in Southern Africa. The bridge links Braamfontein to Newtown.QC-3, Bertha St, Braamfontein. 8. NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY Founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive, the centre’s permanent exhibition focuses on the life and times of Mandela and his dedication to social justice, complemented by many personal artefacts. Two blocks away is Mandela’s final home on 4th Street.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela. org. Free entrance, by appointment only. 9. PEACEMAKERS MUSEUM A small museum dedicated to the Nobel Peace Prize. The exhibition’s main focus is on the work of South Africa’s four Nobel laureates: Albert Luthuli, Rev. Desmond Tutu, F.W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela. Plan for a 25-minute visit. QNelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 79 545 2703, www.peacemakersmuseum.co.za. Open 11:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–18:00. Free entrance. 10. UNION BUILDINGS AND AMPHITHEATRE The office of the President, designed by Sir Herbert Baker in 1910. The 270m-long hilltop building overlooks Pretoria. Mandela was inaugurated here in 1994 as South Africa’s first democratic president. In December 2013 South Africans paid their last respects as his body lay in state. You cannot enter the buildings but you can admire them from the manicured terrace gardens. A 9m-tall Mandela statue was unveiled on December 16, 2013. In a bizarre twist it was discovered that the sculptors had left a signature bronze bunny in one of the ears.QGovernment Ave, Pretoria. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Mandela mural, Doornfontein

Justin Lee

MEET YOUR ANCESTORS The oldest human fossils were discovered in Gauteng in an area now known as the Cradle of Humankind and remains of our ancient ancestors continue to be found here. Two hours: If you have limited time visit the excellent Origins Museum to explore the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source. Alongside the many paleoanthropological exhibits there is also a fascinating focus on San culture and rituals. Half-day: It is well worth taking a trip to Maropeng, the museum located in the Cradle itself, around 40 minutes drive north-west of City Centre. The extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it from the big bang to the evolution of humankind, the discovery of fire and the spread of people across continents. Full day: To really immerse yourself in the history of humankind while enjoying splendid nature, spend the day at the Cradle. Visit the Maropeng Museum and then take a tour of the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of Mrs Ples, Little Foot and other famous fossils were discovered. A world-class meal at Roots restaurant at Forum Homini Hotel is a perfect way to end the day (see Where To Eat). MAROPENGQR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort (about 30 minutes’ drive from Sandton), tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00. Tours of the caves every 30 minutes. ORIGINS CENTREQB-2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. September 2014 – January 2015

Sightseeing 5. FASHION KAPITOL Follow the stylish young things to this rejuvenated square in the heart of the historic Fashion District, the home of the city’s early garment industry and now a platform for emerging fashion designers. The surrounding blocks house fashion stores, small manufacturers and fabric shops (see Shopping).QF-4, 130 Pritchard St (off Troye St), New Doornfontein, City Centre, tel. +27 11 333 7372, www.fashiondistrict.org.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun.

SAB World of Beer

10 INNER-CITY STOPS The oft-maligned City Centre offers a fascinating mix of sites and cultural encounters. These are some of our favourites. Also see Tours for recommended walking tours. 1 & 2. BEYERS NAUDÉ SQUARE AND CITY HALL City Hall (1915) is a grand Edwardian-style national monument (cnr Rissik and President Sts) a few blocks from the Beyers Naudé Square. Naudé was a cleric and leading anti-apartheid activist. The impressive Italianate-style Public Library dominates the square. Built in the 1930s, it contains 1.5 million items and has been beautifully restored. Between the buildings you will find the Cenotaph (cnr Harrison and Albertina Sisulu Sts).QC/D-4. 3. CARLTON CENTRE – ROOF OF AFRICA The 223-metre colossus is still Africa’s tallest skyscraper and the view from the 50th floor is a great place to get perspective on the city’s scale. Lift entrances are hidden down inside the mall near the music store.QE-4/5, Carlton Centre, 150 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 308 1331. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. 4. DIAGONAL STREET Once the town’s gold-rush heart, its colour and bustle gives a rare sense of earlier Joburg. Architect Helmut Jahn’s building at number 11 resembles a multifaceted diamond. This is a great place to buy fabrics, see traditional artefacts and public art. Look out for the Museum of Man and Science (14 Diagonal St), a traditional-medicine shop selling more than 1 900 herbs and other muti. Dress like a city slicker and not a tourist, and don’t take along any valuables.QC-4/5, Runs diagonally between Sauer St and Ntemi Piliso St, City Centre.

Shweshwe and wax-print fabrics at Fashion Kapitol

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

6. LITTLE ADDIS Visit the vibrant Ethiopian district packed into high-rise buildings along Jeppe Street which used to house medical and law practices. There is a dizzying array of restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops here. Ask around for Netsi's restaurant in the former Medical Arts Building.QE-4, Cnr Jeppe and Troye St, City Centre. 7. MABONENG What started as the redevelopment of an industrial building now named Arts on Main, is today a shiny jewel of inner-city redevelopment. Maboneng, meaning ‘place of light’ in Sotho, is a hip lifestyle district with art galleries, restaurants, boutiques, the Sunday Market on Main, an independent cinema/theatre, and MOAD – Museum of African Design.QG-4, Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, www.mabonengprecinct.com. 8. MAI MAI MARKET Dubbed ‘Ezinyangeni’ (the place of healers), the Mai Mai market preserves important aspects of indigenous knowledge. For visitors it is fascinating for its cultural richness and exotic offerings such as animal skins, muti (medicine) and traditional artefacts. Visit with a local guide. MainStreetWalks offer tours of this area.QG-5, Cnr Anderson St and Berea St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 7344. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. 9. MUSEUM AFRICA This impressive old building was once the city’s fruit and vegetable market. Nowadays the museum has an air of neglect to it but does host some great temporary exhibitions. Just under the motorway bridge next to the museum is a colourful array of murals and graffiti, while around the square are many signs relating the area’s history.QB-4, 112 Bree St (facing Mary Fitzgerald Square), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624. Open 09:00– 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. 10. SAB WORLD OF BEER A light-hearted, multisensory experience tracing the history of all things beer from ancient Egypt to the present day. Highlights include a crisp cold beer enjoyed in a replica 19th-century South African pub. Tours last around 80 minutes and leave every half hour. Over 18s only.QC-4, 15 President St (cnr Gerard Sekoto St), Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 4900, www.worldofbeer.co.za. Open 10:00– 18:00 (last tour 16:30). Closed Mon, Sun. Tour R75. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing LEGENDARY STADIUMS South Africans love their sports and each of Johannesburg’s major stadiums has a unique atmosphere and a special place in international sporting history.

Madhya Kailash Temple

THE GODS OF MIDRAND Until 1981 Midrand was called Halfway House, due to its location between Joburg and Pretoria. Since then the commercial centre, warehousing, corporate headquarters and suburbs that have developed here almost seamlessly integrates Gauteng’s two major cities. Few people would rate Midrand as a site of pilgrimage, but with a Gautrain station and three extraordinary places of worship, curious visitors will be rewarded. MADHYA KAILASH TEMPLE The brightly coloured Madhya Kailash Hindu Temple, across the railway tracks from Nizamiye Mosque, is dedicated to Lord Shiva and serves a growing community as a gathering place for special events. While the facebrick building housing the temple is unremarkable, the vividly painted facade and exotic temple shrines are a colourful sight.Q52 Stag Road, Glen Austin, Ext. 3 Midrand, tel. +27 11 805 3683, www.midrandtemple.org. NIZAMIYE COMPLEX Completed in 2012 and modelled on a 16th-century mosque in Edirne, Turkey, this is the biggest mosque in the southern hemisphere. The main dome, framed by four towering minarets, rises to 32 metres. With a further 21 small domes, marble columns, hand-painted ceilings and rich mosaics it is a spectacular piece of architecture. The complex also houses a school, clinic, Turkish supermarket, bakery, barber, bookshop, a carpet and ceramics store and the Ottoman Palace restaurant. Book an hour-long tour with Ahmed Coban to learn more.QLe Roux Ave, Midrand, tel. +27 79 029 0488, www.nizamiye.co.za. RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH Opened in 2003, the Church of St Sergius of Radonezh falls under the Patriarchate of Alexandria in Egypt and serves a small Russian congregation. Designed by a St Petersburg architect, its onion domes are covered in gold leaf and the interior and exterior walls are decorated with various traditional icons and frescoes.QNoordwyk, cnr of Wattle and 8th Sts, tel. +27 11 318 0150, www.st-sergius.info. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ELLIS PARK STADIUM In 1995 Nelson Mandela took to the pitch here wearing a Springbok jersey to present the Rugby World Cup trophy in a key symbolic moment of post-apartheid reconciliation. James Dalton senior runs the stadium’s Springbok museum, a must-see for fans of the game, and can organise behind-the-scenes tours (open weekdays 10:00–15:00, entrance via main gate).Q44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 2960, www.ellispark.co.za. FNB STADIUM Also known as Soccer City, this iconic 94 000-seat venue with its colourful exterior (designed to resemble a calabash) was rebuilt for the 2010 World Cup and is home to Kaizer Chiefs. One-hour tours of the stadium can be booked.QNasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za. WANDERERS STADIUM The home of the Bizhub Highveld Lions and famous as the venue for the 2006 record-breaking one-day international between South Africa and Australia (Aus 434/4 – SA 438/9). There’s a great exhibition of cricketing memorabilia on the second level of the main stand. Only open on match days.Q35 Corlett Drive, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, www.wanderers.co.za.

PUBLIC ART Along Diagonal Street women still walk with lit braziers atop their heads selling sheep’s heads (‘smileys’) or mielies (corn cobs). The Firewalker, by William Kentridge and Gerhard Marx (2009), is an 11-metre-high metal sculpture created with fractured pieces that split apart as you view it from different points. It pays homage to these women and the everyday activities of city dwellers. The sculpture’s location just off the Queen Elizabeth Bridge makes it difficult to stop and view it, and walking alone in the area is not advised. A slow drive-past is recommended until the city implements improved security measures. QC-4, Cnr Simmonds and Sauer Sts, City Centre (see What’s On for details of a Kentridge exhibition). September 2014 – January 2015

Sightseeing: Soweto JACQUI MASIZA’S SOWETO Jacqui Masiza is an archivist, born and raised in Soweto. ‘The place inspires me every day of my life in the way that its struggles have seen the evolution from a burned township to a place with so much growth that it accommodates the whole of Africa in its belly. I share the joys, the vibrancy of the people and the music – all these things make me proud to be a Sowetan.’ She shares some of the township’s lesser-known secrets. MUSICAL ZOLA As a young girl I would stand in the school yard holding the wire fence and listen to Margaret Mcingana (Singana) belt out Ndinxaniwe while sitting in her wheelchair overlooking my school in Zola. Today Zola is known for having produced the crème de la crème of kwaito music (a house music variant) in South Africa, among them Mdu ‘The Don’ Masilela, Zola, Mandoza, and Chiskop. They all hail from Mshayuazafe, a nickname for Zola. EMDENI ‘CAR WASH’ Going to the car wash takes on an entirely new meaning in Soweto where getting your car cleaned involves socialiasing and enjoying some roasted meat along the roadside. E’ Social Link Shisa Nyama & Car Wash in Emdeni is a fresh new chill spot combining class and an addictive social vibe. Link up with the hip and happening crowd here (Mdeni Link and Impala Rds, +27 73 668 7636). NALEDI’S STRUGGLE HEART Naledi High was the school where the Soweto Uprising began. Enos Ngutshane, who was then the local leader of the South African Students Movement, wrote a letter to the Minister for Education to protest that subjects like history, geography and mathematics would be taught through the medium of Afrikaans. This school is associated with names like Onkgopotse Tiro (a student activist and black consciousness proponent killed by the apartheid state), Tsietsie Mashinini (the primary leader of the Soweto uprising), Popo Molefe (activist turned politician who served as a provincial premier), Frank Chikane (a well-known antiapartheid activist and cleric) and others.

MOFOLO DESIGN I love the Thesis Concept Store in Mofolo for original South African designs and a monthly hip-hop scene (173 Mashaba Dr, Mofolo Village, +2711 982 1182). MALL TRAWL JABULANI Jabulani is a hub of activity. Go to the Jabulani Mall to sip coffee, watch the passing parade of shoppers and to get a good deal of your own (2601 Corner Koma and Bolani Road, tel. +27 11 930 3333). Not far off is the Soweto Theatre, where you can enjoy a play. MZIMHLOPHE HEROES In the 1950s gangsters ruled the streets and you can let Jabulani Mbatha tell you the story of the gang MaHazels. His home was their headquarters. Songstress and style icon Miriam Makeba once lived here, and you might catch singer Mara Louw visiting home, or meet Mam Motsoaledi whose husband was a Treason Trialist and Rivonia Trialist with the likes of Nelson Mandela. PIMVILLE NOTES When I’m feeling mellow the African jazz-themed Backroom Lounge in Pimville is the place, a bar-lounge-restaurant (Shop 20, Pimville Square, +27 11 938 9388). KLIPTOWN STAYOVER The Soweto Hotel & Conference Centre (cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www. sowetohotel.co.za) in Kliptown is the best place to sleep, overlooking Walter Sisulu Square. On one side is Kliptown Squatter camp, on the other is Klipspruit West, a place for hunting treasures from the old shops, like beads, material, leather belts and enamel dishes.

Soweto Hotel

I SEE A DIFFERENT YOU

Justice, Vuyo and Innocent

Soweto photography collective I See a Different You, twin brothers Justice and Innocent Mukheli and Vuyo Mpantsha, grew up in Pimville and today create extraordinary photographs calling to mind township life not often seen. Now working in the advertising

48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

industry, they started their photography blog in 2010 and have since captured the attention of audiences as far away as Japan and Norway, where they have showed their work. Alexandra or Pimville, Kliptown or Orlando in Soweto are not place names that conjure the hipster lifestyle or where traditionally one thinks of beauty or high fashion as vaunted. But for the brothers and their friend these places are the backdrop for recreating their childhood moments and paying homage to their grandfathers’ and fathers’ sense of style. See their work at iseeadifferentyou.tumblr.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto

Soweto by I See A Different You

Located 30km south-west of Joburg City Centre, South Africa’s most famous township is a top tourist attraction. Soweto was always at the forefront of the struggle against Apartheid and there are several worthwhile sights that showcase this history. Don’t visit looking only for evidence of the past because you’ll miss out on it’s burgeoning cultural and social scene. Although many areas are still desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier neighbourhoods and a growing middle-class. Whether you stop by its museums or just to party, you’ll find that it is the people who make your Soweto visit most memorable.

GETTING THERE AND TOURS The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS (satnav), but if you do plan to drive yourself, main tourist destinations are well sign-posted. The Rea Vaya bus is the easiest way to arrive on public transport, with buses from central Johannesburg stopping near many of the key sights

(see www.reavaya.org.za for route maps). For a whistlestop two-hour tour hop on the Sowetoo (www. citysightseeing.co.za/joburg) minibus which links to the City Sightseeing Bus at Gold Reef City. With prior arrangement you can hop off for two hours at Vilakazi Street and catch up with the bus later. To see the township at a more relaxed pace, Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobicycletours.co.za) run two-hour, half-day or full-day bicycle or tuk tuk tours with visits to shebeens for refreshments. Kgomotso Pooe’s Soweto Outdoor Adventures (tel. +27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za) is the answer for adventure junkies. Pooe takes visitors out on quad bikes and can organise go-karting, paintballing and even camping trips. To see a completely unexpected side of Soweto, join the avid conservationist and birding guide Raymond Rampolokeng of Bay of Grace Tours (tel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours.wozaonline.co.za). He leads eco-tours to Soweto’s green areas such as the Orlando Dam wetlands and the Enoch Sontonga koppie (hill), from where the views over Soweto are expansive.

SOWETO MAP

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September 2014 – January 2015

Sightseeing: Soweto

Credo Mutwa Cultural Village, Jabavu

NEIGHBOURHOODS CHRIS HANI ROAD Many of Soweto’s biggest landmarks are found along the main thoroughfare, Chris Hani Road. Hani was the leader of the South African Communist Party and was assassinated shortly before the first democratic elections. At its western end near Thokoza Park is the Regina Mundi Church which played a hugely significant role in the struggle against Apartheid and even has the bullet holes to prove it (1149 Kumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville). Heading east over the Klipspruit river you can’t miss the glitzy Maponya Mall and a huge Virgin Active Gym, both signs of just how much Soweto’s middle-class has grown (2127 Chris Hani Rd, Klipspruit Ext 5, www.maponyamall.co.za). Chris Hani Road is best known for the massive Baragwanath Hospital and the eponymous taxi rank. A public transportation hub and bustling market, mini-buses travel from here to all corners of the township, a fact celebrated in a series of nearby public artworks. No visit to Soweto is complete without taking in the iconic Soweto Cooling Towers. Popular with bungee-jumping thrill-seekers, the weekend party-crowd also throng here to enjoy the Chaf Pozi beer garden and braai (turn left onto Nicholas St, cnr Kingsley Sithole St, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset). The wetlands surrounding the towers are also a haven for all kinds of birdlife – contact Bay of Grace Tours for bird-watching.

Bicycles for hire at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

JABAVU AND JABULANI The quirky Credo Mutwa Cultural Village, is located inside Jabavu Central’s Oppenheimer Park and is a unique representation of African mythology. Built in the 1970s by the traditional healer and sculptor Credo Mutwa, it is now looked after by a passionate caretaker Lebohang Sello (tel. +27 78 810 2664) who will happily explain the complex meanings behind Mutwa’s mystical and prophetic sculptures. You can also enjoy a panoramic view of the entire township by climbing the Oppenheimer Tower with its 49 steps, each marking a different suburb of the township. The tower is named after the mining magnate and founder of Anglo American, Ernest Oppenheimer (991 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central). The neighbourhoods of Jabavu and Jabulani boast other worthwhile artistic destinations such as the Roots Art Gallery and Restaurant (Makhetha Shopping Center, cnr Mphuthi and Dimakatso Sts, Central Western Jabavu, tel. +27 11 930 3752, www.roots-soweto.co.za) and the impressive Soweto Theatre, which is Soweto’s leading cultural institution. Mainly used for concerts and poetry recitals, the theatre also stages plays produced by local writers and hosts the popular Soweto Arts and Crafts Fair on the first Saturday of every month (cnr Bolani Rd and Bolani Links Rd, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, www. sowetotheatre.com). For a fun and friendly place to wind down stop by 707 Panyaza where by day there’s a sizzling shisa nyama and a buzzing beer garden and at night it’s one of the hottest clubs in town (1736 Tumahole St, White City, Jabavu, tel. +27 82 937 5534, www.zik-lak.co.za). KLIPTOWN In 1955 the Congress of the People gathered on the main square of Kliptown (now Walter Sisulu Square) to present the Freedom Charter, a document that forms the basis of South Africa’s new constitution, regarded as one of the most progressive in the world. Open-air exhibitions and a small visitors’ centre explain the principles of the Freedom Charter and give background to its amazing history. Kliptown is the oldest area of Soweto and is a place of striking contrasts. Surrounding the square are lively markets and the inviting upmarket four-star Soweto Hotel & Conference Centre, a great place to stop for coffee or hang out for jazz on a Sunday (tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel. co.za). Just across the train tracks Kliptown residents still live in shacks without running water. Hidden among unpaved streets are striking murals painted by international artists and a palpably strong sense of community. If you want to take a dive into this other side of Kliptown, ask around for Bafana Nkosi (a local birdwatcher, poet and guide) who is part of Post 77, an inspirational local art collective who run their own art gallery and are turning local dump sites into gardens. We don’t recommend you venture to the other side of the tracks without a local guide. For a Kliptown guided walk, contact Kabelo Malefane (+27 76 604 8842). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto ORLANDO WEST Vilakazi Street is Soweto’s most famous street, marketed as the only street in the world to once have had two Nobel peace prize laureates living there – Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. For those into more technical details Mandela’s address is actually 8115 Ngakane Street, corner Vilakazi Street. This was the address he used when he wrote letters to his daughters while imprisoned on Robben Island. A blue heritage plaque marks Tutu’s home and today the little Mandela House Museum is the most popular attraction. There are plenty of good places to eat and drink on Vilakazi Street plus ample opportunity to purchase local crafts and Soweto-themed souvenirs. For a walk on the wild side, look out for the sign to Soweto Snakes Show. Try Nambitha Restaurant (687 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 9128, www.nambitharestaurant.co.za) and Sakhumzi (6980 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 939 4427, www.sakhumzi.co.za) for typical township fare and exotic African dishes, Thrive Café (8038 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 536 1838, www.thrivecafe.co.za) for international cuisine and cafe culture or Nex Dor (6979 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 039 7631) for cocktails and pop-up art exhibitions by Mashumi Art Projects (mashumiartprojects. wordpress.com). From here it is just a short walk (follow the signs) to the outstanding and deeply moving Hector Pieterson Museum, a must-see which focuses on the events leading to the Soweto school uprising on June 16, 1976. Memorial artworks line the street and marked in red are the places where the protesting schoolchildren were shot down. Sam

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Brazilian graffiti artist Mundano’s Kliptown artwork

Nzima’s iconic photograph of the young Pieterson’s body being carried down a Soweto street has become the image almost indelibly associated with this terrible part of South Africa’s history (8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 115 36 06 11. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R30).

September 2014 – January 2015

Shopping 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. Mandela Square, Maude and West Sts, tel. +27 11 217 6001, www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–16:00.

Togu’na, Parktown North

SHOPPING DISTRICTS While most people think of Joburg as wall-to-wall with malls, there are plenty of shopping options whether your tastes are for high street or eclectic local labels, vintage or craft markets. And besides, the mall is no longer just the mall. A growing trend has seen weekly markets (usually Sundays) join retail stores to attract Sunday shoppers. Here you’ll find shopping organised by area (see Neighbourhoods). For help with specific shopping categories see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. HYDE PARK & SANDTON For swanky premium designer European labels and socialites galore, Hyde Park Corner is the place to be seen. It is the most stylish and compact of the major malls and offers good cafe food options in Life and Tasha’s La Parc. Sandton City has hundreds of high-street labels and exclusive brands. The adjoining tourist-hotspot Nelson Mandela Square (for Mandela statue selfies) is a magnet for Africa’s elite. Off the restaurant piazza (behind the library building) is the Sandton Craft Market which has high-quality crafted items. On the first Sunday of the month you can browse the Antiques Market in Nelson Mandela Square (from 09:00–16:00). QHyde Park Corner, 6th Rd, cnr Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkshopping.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00. Sandton City, cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27

Kirsten Goss & Missibaba

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ROSEBANK Rosebank Mall’s recent renovation (still ongoing) has revealed a swan. One of our favourite malls is part of a mall complex (including The Zone and The Firs) that spans a number of blocks and is linked by pedestrian walkways offering lots of outdoor shopping and eating options. The weekly rooftop Rosebank Sunday Market offers innovative African art and crafts while the permanent African Craft Market is famous for its wide variety and hard-bargaining vendors. The Zone@Rosebank attracts the youthful crowds with its local high street labels such as Big Blue (great for witty T-shirts and fun gifts), The Space (clothing by up-and-coming South African designers), Read’s (designer antique and locally-made jewellery) and Urban Zulu (modern clothing inspired by traditional African fabrics), plus a games arcade and movie complex. The adjoining The Firs is all grown up, with a great restaurant piazza.QRosebank Mall, Baker St, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.themallofrosebank. co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–17:00. Sunday Market 09:00–16:00. The Zone@Rosebank, tel. +27 11 537 3800, www.the-zoneatrosebank. co.za. Open until 19:00 on Fri, Sat. MELROSE For refined streetside café culture and high-street shopping there’s Melrose Arch, a mall within a shopping suburb and for a less frenetic pace there’s also the nearby Blubird (with free parking) where you can enjoy a meal on the patio and shop at a small collection of independent stores. The red velvet cake at Belle’s Patisserie is legend, and pop into Le Bijou for beautiful costume jewellery. On Sundays visit the pop-up Whole Food Market. A few blocks away in the scenic suburb of Birdhaven at 66 Andrew St you’ll find the Kirsten Goss & Missibaba store – worth the detour for exquisite jewellery made with precious stones and handtooled leather handbags, plus attractive streetside cafes and a small butcher selling some excellent biltong (the ‘wet’ style is most addictive). QMelrose Arch, Melrose Blvd, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 0000, www.melrosearch.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Blubird, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 887 2759, www.blubird.co.za. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. NORWOOD The Norwood Mall offers a casual shopping environment with the excellent B&B Sunday Market (tel. +27 11 728 6640, www.norwoodmall.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00) on the rooftop with a kid’s zone, plenty of collectables and crafted items. The food stalls here are also worth lingering over. On Norwood’s main drag, Grant Ave, The Factory on Grant is a cute new outdoor complex with the Bayljohannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping iss Gallery, and bakery Vovo Telo in an open courtyard. For bargain hunters, Hospice Corner is an impressive complex of charity shops with an excellent second-hand bookshop (cnr 9th St and Louis Botha, tel. +27 11 728 1052. Closed Sun). A few blocks away is Kalahari Books, with more than 70 000 titles and personalised service (Tuxedo Junction, 2 Dunottar St, Orange Grove, tel. +27 82 678 8619, kalaharibooks.co.za. Open 09:30-16:30. Closed Mon). QNorwood Mall, Cnr 6th Ave and Hamlin St, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 728 6640, www.norwoodmall.co.za. Open 09:00-18:00. Sat, Sun 09:00-15:00. THE PARKS If you are in the market to buy art, then Parkwood’s galleries (see What’s On: Joburg’s Art Scene) have something to suit most tastes. At Togu’na in Parktown North you’ll find precious objets and artefacts from more than 25 African countries (235A Jan Smuts Avenue, Parktown North, +27 11 447 7654, www.toguna.co.za, Open 09:00–17:00. Sat by appointment only. Closed Sun). Parkhurst‘s 4th Avenue is Joburg’s most popular high street, great for browsing antique and homeware stores and enjoying café society. Egality (25 4th Ave, tel. +27 71 452 2503, www. egality.co.za) is an elegant store for local designer threads and stop at Tinsel for beautifully-made contemporary jewellery (25 4th Ave, tel. +27 11 447 2761, www. tinsel. co.za. Closed Sun, Mon). Travel along 6th Street for a range interesting stores, including Kluk CGDT’s elegant space for ready-to-wear and couture clothing (46 6th St, tel. +27 83 377 7730, www.klukcgdt.com. Closed Sun). Virgina Greenwell’s Parkhurst home, Seringa, is a living gallery showcasing beautiful pieces of furniture and art, and also stocking a gorgeous range of African accessories and clothing (17 2nd St, tel. +27 76 819 6465, www.seringalivinggallery.com. Call for an appointment). MELVILLE 7th Avenue is quirky Melville’s main drag with an eclectic selection of stores – head to Snow Lion (12b 7th St, tel. +27 11 482 2795) for South African-designed gifts and to Bookdealers for an excellent selection of used titles (12 7th St, tel. +27 11 726 4054, www.bookdealers.co.za). At the suburban chic Bamboo Centre you’ll find the superb Love Books stocking great South African fiction (+27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za). Black Coffee is where you’ll find celebrated local designer Jacques van der Watt’s meticulously constructed garments, and the innovative Tshirt brand Love Jozi’s quirky Joburg-inspired clothing and homeware (tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.blackcoffee.co.za). Artist Sue-Pam Grant’s fascinating installation space is across the road.QBamboo Centre, cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online. co.za. Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

Shopping PAN-AFRICAN FASHION For pan-African-style inspiration, head to Fashion Kapitol (130 Pritchard St, City Centre – see Sightseeing for more). On Saturdays there is a monthly themed fashion show (see Facebook for updates). While there, stop in at Studio 109 (tel. +27 11 333 3060) for an incredible selection of wax-print fabrics and the original Three Cats shweshwe (once used by traditional Xhosa women and now de rigueur in any Afro-chic fashionista’s wardrobe). At Fruitcake Vintage (tel. + 27 11 024 8005. Open 10:00–17:00, closed Sun) you’ll bump into the coolest cats in town being styled by Sthembiso, the owner. For African-inspired haute couture make an appointment with Bongiwe Walaza who has a store on the square (tel. + 27 11 333 1098), and order a light lunch from the Fashion Shack (on Wednesdays the excellent fish and chips special is R21).Qwww.fashiondistrict.co.za. MILPARK 44 Stanley, a converted 1930s industrial complex, is a charming space to shop, dine and drink with lots of cute courtyard cafés and the Stanley Beer Yard. Look out for Art On Paper Gallery, Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe’s form-fitting and exquisitely tailored clothing and other specialist boutiques.Q44 Stanley Ave, cnr Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00– 16:00 and Sun 10:00–15:00. Note many shops and cafés do not open on Mon. LB BRAAMFONTEIN On any weekend thousands of people jam Braamfontein’s city streets as they flock to the Neighbourgoods Market for frozen margaritas, stylish accessories and delectable treats (73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www. neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00). In the surrounding streets there’s 70 Juta St where you’ll find Stevenson Contemporary Art Gallery, an impressive Puma concept store, the budgetpriced and super-chic Designs of Europe and independent publisher Fourthwall’s bookstore – opening October (Shop 5, Norvic House, Reserve St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 3009, www.fourthwallbooks.com). FORDSBURG Home to Joburg’s Indian and Muslim communities, this colourful neighbourhood is the place to hunt for bargains and stock up on spices. Look out for Cassims for a wellpriced selection of top sportswear brands and football strips (53 Central Rd, +27 11 836 6037), and the Hindu prayer shop Swadesh for incense (45 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 021 1682, www.swadeshi.co.za). The streets between Mint and Central Roads come alive during the Saturday night market when locals of all backgrounds throng the area to shop, socialise and eat. Spicy street food is sold on every corner and vendors set up stalls selling sweets, toys, costume 54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

jewellery and pirated DVDs. At the centre of it all is the famous Oriental Plaza, where you can find everything from clothing, exotic fabrics, toys and household items to beautiful weddingwear and decorations. Many stores have tailors to ensure the perfect fit.QOriental Plaza, 38-60 Bree St, www.orientalplaza.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30– 15:00 Closed Sun and during Friday prayers (12:00–14:00). MABONENG This happening, regenerated downtown district is the place to come for unique Jozi branded items and clever household objects inspired by iconic Joburg images such as taxi hand-sign printed tea towels from 1886 Boutique (20 Kruger St, tel. +27 11 469 3770). For modern African fashion try Kitenge, a tiny container store stocking bolts of colourful East African cloth and covetable accessories or Story Tellers of Fashionkynd, an Afro-centric boutique selling fashion forward items such as cute printed skirts and Masai inspired shrugs (Main Street Bizarre, 263 Main St, tel. +27 73 733 2457, www.storytellersoffashionkynd.com). Sunday is the best day to come to Maboneng when the popular Market on Main kicks off with a huge array of food vendors, craft beer, vintage fashion and designer crafts. On Mondays most shops are closed (Arts on Main, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www.marketonmain.co.za, Sun from 10:00–15:00 and 19:00–23:00 on the first Thu of the month).

10 GREAT JOBURG BUYS  LOVE JOZI Long before anyone felt the love for Johannesburg, graphic designer Bradley Kirshenbaum dreamed up Love Jozi, a T-shirt brand celebrating the city’s uniqueness and iconic skyline in myriad products, including their signature key rack. Accept no substitutes for this authentic brand.QBamboo, cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 334 1071, www.lovejozi.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00. Also at Arts on Main, Maboneng.  IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of I WasShot in Joburg, an innovative photography collective of young men from Hillbrow’s Twilight Shelter. Their images decorate walls, notebooks and household items.QC-3, 70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 922 5674, www.iwasshot. com. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Also at Arts on Main, Maboneng.  YDA WALT DESIGN STUDIO Artist and designer Yda Walt translates the world around her into quirky and colourful prints. Her screenprinted cloths are then hand-stitched to create artworks and homeware items in a range of fabrics. She uses silks and felt to bring scenes from the city’s streets into your home. Walt also offers screenprinting courses.QTel. +27 82 530 2925, www.ydawaltstudio.co.za. See the website for open studio dates. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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 YSWARA Specialising in luxury African products, including a range of teas and beautifully packaged scented candles that capture the essence of African cities. The manly scent of the Joburg candle is full of sex appeal.Q57 6th St, Parkhurst, +27 (0) 10 590 12 74, www.yswara.com.  MARIA MCCLOY You’ll find this accessory addict at Maboneng’s Market on Main on Sundays, from where she supplies the coolest cats with accessories inspired by a Lesotho childhood and her inimitable sense of style.QMarket on Main – Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www.marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:0015:00. Night market 1st Thu of the month 19:00-23:00.

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 BEADS Stay in Joburg long enough and you can’t help but view the streets with a beady eye. Beadsellers ply their trade at traffic lights, and there’s nothing that can’t be made in beads and wire.QOn street corners everywhere.

A Jewel Boutique in the Heart of Sandton, Johannesburg. For an appointment Call: + 27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121

 LORENZI Highly covetable luxury handbags and purses that fuse Italian styling with ostrich, buffalo and python leather in kaleidoscopic colours.QShop U 78, Upper Level, Sandton City, 5th St, Sandton +27 11 783 6013, www.lorenzi. co.za.  SCHWARTZ JEWELLERS Unique African-style jewellery often on the arms and necks of visiting celebrities. Tours of the jewellery-manufacturing workshop are offered.QShop H6a, Sandton City (near the Square), 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 1717.

 AFRICAN CREAM This independent record label’s compilations and artist recordings capture the sounds of the city like no other. Our current favourite CD from their beautifully packaged series is Zamo | At Last, 13 classics masterfully reworked by Zamo Mbatha.QTel. +27 11 027 7193 4, www.africancreamstore.com, for stockists.  SIMON AND MARY The hat brand of choice for the hippest kids in town, created by Dean Pozniak, whose family has been in the Joburg millinery business for more than three generations. The most popular style is the Catherine, made using machinery from the 1960s and inspired by classic styles from a time when you were naked without a fine hat on your head.Qwww.simonandmary.co.za. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

September 2014 – January 2015

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56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TOP-TO-TIPS BEAUTY For perfect tips and pampering body treatments, take refuge at Decadence Nail & Beauty in Sandton City (see Surprising Sandton). To get the rest of you in peak shape these are our picks. LASERDERM If it’s in the latest celebrity-packed glossy magazine, you’ll find it here. A consultation with the in-house doctor is recommended to help you select the appropiate nonsurgical cosmetic treatment at this one-stop salon, including laser, Fraxel, Botox, chemical peels and CoolSculpting (said to melt fat away).Q66 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 9232, www.laserderm-sa.com. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. See website for branches. LASH & BROW BAR For impressive eyelashes, it is hard to top this place. Located in suburban Bryanston, brow-tinting and shaping, facials, manicures, pedicures, waxing and massages are also offered in a relaxing and tranquil environment.Q62 St James Cres, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 8471, http:// www.lashandbrowbar.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–13:00, Closed Sun, Mon.

GREAT SPA EXPERIENCES AFRICOLOGY PARKHURST The beauty of eco-friendly Africology products is in their natural potency plus they smell heavenly. The brand’s newest space is in Parkhurst and here you’ll find unique treatments given by experienced therapists. Try an Oxygen facial or copper bath and hot-stone massage. Guaranteed, you’ll want to go back for more.Q33 4th Avenue, Parkhurst, Tel. + 27 11 880 0233 www.africologyspa. com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. THE SPA @ MELROSE Professionalism permeates this haven in Melrose Arch, whether you go for the Aura Balance Body Ritual, the Red Carpet Signature Treatment for a special occasion or the superb iS Clinical Facial. Rejuvenating and tranquil, this is a must-visit for beauty needs.Q3rd Floor, 18 The High Street, Melrose Arch, Tel. +27 11 684 1392, www.melrosespa.co.za. Mon–Fri 08:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00– 17:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. THE SAXON An ultra-luxe favourite, the Saxon Spa nestles inside the luxurious boutique hotel. Once the fluffy gown is on, the cares of the outside world will seem very far away. Treatments, ranging from expert facials, manicures and massages to the extraordinary sound therapy are all highly professional and will leave you feeling supremely pampered. The prices aren’t shy but it’s worth every penny as you get to linger and use the excellent spa facilities.Q36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, +27 11 11 292 6000, www.saxon. co.za. Open 08:30–21:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg with kids OUT AND ABOUT

Cullinan Close and Rivonia Rd, Morningside, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 1090, www.papachinos.co.za. Open 08:30– 21:00, Sun 08:30–16:30). For plenty of open spaces plus a chance to learn African dances and listen to stories there’s Moyo at Zoo Lake (1 Prince of Wales Dr, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 0058, www.moyo.co.za. Open 08:00–22:00. Fri–Sat 08:00–23:00). Also take a row boat across the lake.

EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES

Tanya Kovarsky’s blog Rattle and Mum (www.rattleand mum.co.za) was named Africa’s Best Parenting Blog 2014. This former magazine editor loves long-distance running and technology, and exploring the city with her five-year-old son, Max. 1. For arts and crafts activities a cut above the rest, head to Rock Paper Scissors for regular workshops, or for kids to try their hand at T-shirt painting and puppet making, pottery and mask-making (cnr Susman Ave and Morell Rd, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 84 693 2160. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun). 2. Ride the Gautrain (www.gautrain.co.za) – stop at O.R. Tambo International Airport to watch the planes and enjoy some ice cream, or head to Hatfield, Pretoria and take a Gautrain bus to the Union Buildings in Arcadia to see the Nelson Mandela statue. Gautrain buses go to Pretoria Zoo and Johannesburg Zoo at weekends (see Getting Around). 3. Go on a pony ride, climb the jungle gyms, ride your bike, eat, drink and run around the beautiful River Café at Sandton Field and Study Centre (cnr Louise Ave and 14th St, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 2442, www.rivercafesandton.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon). It’s an equally great spot for parents and kids. 4. Nurture your mini masterchef at The Little Cooks Club (www.littlecooksclub.co.za). They have a range of programmes for kids aged 18 months to 15 years old. 5. Head to the beautiful and historic Cradle of Humankind (see Sightseeing) where you can choose between Maropeng, Sterkfontein Caves or Wonder Caves.

WHERE TO EAT For young families Bambanani with its play areas and full-time child minders is also a treat for adults (85 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2900, www.bambanani.biz. Open 09:00– 20:00; Sat, Sun 08:00–21:00, closed Mon). For plenty of play space in a green setting and a chance to feed bunnies and ogle reptiles there’s Munch at the Garden Shop (cnr Main and Halifax Rds, Bryanston, www.munchcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00). Get the kids to make their own pizzas while you sip a cocktail at Papachino’s (cnr facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Wits Art Museum (www.wits.ac.za/wam) offers free family talkabouts on the third Saturday of each month, with fun activities for 6- to 12-year-olds. For a family Joburg tour you can’t do better than the City Sightseeing Bus Tour (www.citysightseeing.co.za/ joburg), which takes in sights that include the James Hall Museum of Transport. The National Children’s Theatre offers a regular programme of productions and workshops (3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za. Tickets from R90) or get the kids hooked on science at Sci-Bono (B-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and President Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat– Sun 09:30–16:30. Tickets R20 for adults, R10 for children).

FUN AND ENTERTAINMENT For indoor fun there’s tenpin bowling, bumper cars and arcade games at The Fun Company (The Zone@ Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4099, www.thefuncompany. co.za. Open 09:00–24:00). Or grab a canvas and some paint and be inspired at Art Jamming (Shop 27, Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1608, www.artjamming.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. Public holidays 09:00–15:00. Canvases start at R135). If outdoor activities are more your speed the best funfair and theme park is at Gold Reef City (cnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open 09:30–17:00 during school holidays – 4–12 October and 11 December to mid-January – otherwise Wed–Sun 09:30–17:00. Tickets from R165). For target practice there’s Battlezone Paintball (cnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. 0861 468 242, www.battlezone.co.za. From R120) and next door, Jozi X for the super-active from age 5 to 75 to try mountain boarding, big-wheel trike drifting or the extreme wipeout course (tel. +27 82 456 2358, www. jozix.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00. Tickets from R100). Wild Waters Boksburg is your closest ‘beach’, just 30 minutes east of Johannesburg, with lots of thrilling water activities (Rondebult Rd, off N12, Boksburg, tel. +27 11 826 6736, www.wildwatersboksburg. co.za. Open 10:00–16:00. Park closes at 17:00. Ages 2–7 R65, 8+ R125, pensioners R75).

Joburg is generally a kid-friendly city. For fun family events, see our round-up in What’s On. September 2014 – January 2015

Sport & Outdoors MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE The Melville Koppies (‘koppie’ is ‘small hill’ in Afrikaans) is an archaeological treasure with artefacts from the Stone Age and Iron Age and great views over the city. The best way to visit is to join a weekend social walking tour for insights into the area’s unique ecosystem.QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www. mk.org.za. Open 08:00–19:00. Admission R40, children R10.

Parkview Golf Club

PARKS AND GREEN SPACES There is no shortage of scenic green spaces for picnics and long walks. While generally safe, don’t take valuables along and avoid isolated paths. Join the 5km free park runs every Saturday at 08:00 (www.parkrun.co.za). BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM This green oasis has a formal rose garden which is a favourite spot for weekend weddings, and extensive green lawns perfect for picnics or kicking a ball around. Join the Dabulamanzi Canoe Club for some serious sport, or come down on a Sunday morning at 09:30 for the Yoga in the Park class (top of the rose gardens), run by Yoga Works (www.yogaworks.co.za. Costs R80).QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00. DELTA ENVIRONMENTAL CENTRE One of the city’s biggest parks has vast grasslands and woodlands. An environmental centre offers wildlife-related courses, bird-viewing hides and a sensory trail for the sight-impaired.QCnr Road Number 3 and Craighall Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 888 4831, www.deltaenviro. org.za. Open 08:30–16:00. GEORGE HAY PARK This lovely, small park in the delightful suburb of Parkview is well maintained and regularly hosts great community events supported by local gourmet food trucks.QWestmeath Rd, Parkview, www.parkview.org.za. JAMES AND ETHEL GRAY PARK The park’s winning feature is its extraordinary views of the downtown Joburg skyline. Popular with dog walkers, joggers and kids on bikes. Adjoining the park is an Acrobranch adventure course with zip lines and tree swings. QCnr Westwood Ave and North St, Melrose. KLIPRIVIERSBERG NATURE RESERVE This extensive nature reserve with a river running through it feels a million miles away from the city. Herds of impala roam the hillsides, and signposted trails wind through the bush for dozens of kilometres.QFrandaph Dr, Mondeor, tel. +27 82 458 2816, www.klipriviersberg.org.za. Open sunrise to sunset. 58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

METRO PARK The newest park in Joburg opened in Newtown in August. Once a dump site next to a busy taxi rank, this park features a playground, outdoor gym, an amphitheatre and picnic facilities as well as 200 indigenous trees.QNtemi Piliso Street, Newtown. WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of Gauteng’s most beautiful parks, head here for stunning flora and fauna, waterfalls and other natural delights. This is the perfect place to break away and spend a day enjoying South African nature a mere 30 minutes’ drive from the city.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Open 08:00–17:00. ZOO LAKE One of Joburg’s most popular parks, you will find people of all ages hanging out here, playing cricket, rowing boats, having a picnic, feeding the ducks, strumming guitars and generally winding down. There are two large jungle gyms and play areas for kids of all ages, and ice-cream sellers roam the place along with hawkers selling toys and refreshments. On summer weekends families and big groups of people intent on a good time can be loud and messy, so young families may prefer to visit during the week.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. Open 10:00–21:00.

SWIMMING Pools are generally open between 10:00 and 18:00 daily. Some require you to wear a swimming cap. ELLIS PARK SWIMMING POOL This famous pool, where South African Olympians and Iron Man competitors train, is the top choice. Slower swimmers have their own area and there’s also a kids’ pool.QG/H-2, Cnr North Ln and Erin St, Doornfontein. POOLSIDE This hangout and tapas bar in the inner-city is surrounded by palm trees and pool loungers and is the best place to cool off in this happening neighbourhood this summer. QG-4, Poolside, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 754 9745. Open 11:00–22:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & Outdoors ZOO LAKE SWIMMING POOL The historic Zoo Lake swimming baths is a local favourite and offers kids and adults pools with plentiful picnic areas amid lush greenery. Arrive early to claim your sun-lounging spot. A real gem.QCnr Prince of Wales and Lower Park Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 8495. Open 10:0017:45. Adults R8, children R4.

GOLF Joburg is a golfers’ paradise with more golf courses in one city than probably anywhere else in the world. Factor in year-round sunshine and highly competitive pricing and it’s no wonder this town has a big number of golfing fanatics. Smart-casual golf attire is required, although you are welcome to play in shorts. Caddies are virtually always available and golf clubs can usually be rented from the proshop. Generally courses are quieter during the week and are often closed on Mondays. If you have left it too late, try www.lastminutegolf.co.za for a booking. For a list of some of the best golf courses in the region, see our online feature at www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

CYCLING Cycling is hugely popular and many groups are lobbying for more dedicated cycling lanes, already in place in Braamfontein and Orlando. Just outside the city are numerous great mountain-biking routes, while frequent mass-cycling events, such as the monthly Critical Mass (jhb.criticalmass. co.za), and Freedom Ride (www.freedomride.org.za) are bringing more cyclists into the inner city. For more on how to enjoy Joburg on two-wheels, see our online feature at www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

WILD CITY JOHANNESBURG ZOO Walk on the wild side on more than 81 hectares.QJan Smuts Ave (entrance on Upper Park Dr), Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org.za. Open 08:30–17:30. Admission R58, children and pensioners R36. ULK LION PARK Newsweek voted it one of the top 100 tourist destinations in the world.QCnr Malibongwe Dr and R114 Rd, Honeydew, tel. +27 11 691 9905, www.lion-park.com. Open 09:00–21:00 Admission R270, children R170. LK MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS Hundreds of fascinating bird species and the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Blvd, cnr William Nicol and Witkoppen Rds, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–18:00. Admission for adults and children over 10, R53; pensioners and children under 10, R30. ULK facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Runners training for the Nike Soweto Marathon, which takes place on November 2. See What’s On.

RUN JOBURG Nechama Brodie is the editor of The Joburg Book and an occasional runner of half-marathons. She has spent the past three years learning to love uphills, and hopes to (finally) break the one-hour/10km barrier this year. Or next year. This is her take on running in Joburg. Joburg is really a car city, but if you wake early enough the streets are pretty and quiet. While many roads and areas are perfectly safe for runners, it’s always better to be safe than sorry – experienced runners know it’s not just crime you have to worry about but also inconsiderate drivers. Road runners should follow basic safety rules: run facing oncoming traffic, avoid wearing headphones, and wear light/bright/highly visible clothing. If you’re not familiar with the city or suburban roads, you can easily find running buddies using websites like Runner’s World (www.runnersworld. co.za, and @runnersworldza). There are a number of running clubs and you don’t need to be a member to join in the weekly time trials (usually 5km to 8km runs). You can find a full listing of clubs at www.runnersguide. co.za, or try the Rand Athletic Club (www.rac.co.za), the Wanderers Club (www.thewanderersclub.co.za) or Randburg Harriers (www.randburgharriers.co.za). The Nike Running Club leave from the Nike store at the Zone@Rosebank and attracts a young, fast crowd. Registration is from 17:00 and the run usually starts by 17:30 every Wednesday. Johannesburg and surrounds boast a surprisingly full road and trail-running calendar – good weather means there are races almost all year round, whether you’re looking for a fast 10km or a scenic(ish) half or full marathon. Races are a great way to see the city without having to worry too much about cars and security. A full calendar of events can be found at www.runnersworld.co.za and www. runnersguide.co.za. September 2014 – January 2015

Joburg Basics ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry (see Shopping and Nightlife).

Alessio La Ruffa

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close well before 22:00. Most restaurants, galleries and museums are closed on Mondays. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville and Greenside are traditionally latenight haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Car traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa. Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and one of the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BANKING AND MONEY CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. All prices are rounded off to the nearest 5c. BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. ATMs are widely available. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www. absa.co.za), FNB – First National Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za). VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer stretching from November to March and milder temperatures setting in from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Joburgers feel the cold quite intensely because homes and hospitality establishments generally are not designed with adequate insulation and winter weather in mind. Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11. Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones. CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn. co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www. telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband. co.za). Check the website regularly because costs change frequently. All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol stations and online. RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying. VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

INTERNET ACCESS

More and more cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wireless. Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibre-optic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card. MILKY WAY INTERNET CAFÉ Offers public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03, The Zone, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly. See www.southafrica.info/ travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa and is subject to occasional shortages. Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CRIME AND SAFETY Joburg has a poor reputation for safety. The police force (the SAPS) isn’t always as top-notch or as present as it needs to be, and the city’s Metro Police often seem more intent on issuing speeding fines than on bearing down on other dangerous driving habits, like flying through red traffic lights, not wearing safety belts and driving on sidewalks or in emergency lanes (a quirk of minibus taxi-drivers now emulated by impatient drivers). The truth about safety is a shifting reality. A lot of opportunistic crime takes place in dense city and suburban neighbourhoods, where homes are targeted. You’ll notice the ubiquitous guard huts, electric fencing and private-security patrol cars in the wealthier northern suburbs, and the razor wire in less affluent areas. Our advice is to be aware rather than paranoid. As in any other modern metropolis, you need to use your head, know where you’re going, and not flash your cash or valuables around. Consult a local to get a head’s up, but walk away if they’re the type to tell you that the whole city is a no-go area – you have just chosen the wrong local. When you plan your first walk around the innercity, consider a tour with one of the many knowledgeable guides who offer them, or a City Sightseeing Red Bus hop-on, hop-off tour to get the lay of the land (see Sightseeing: Tours and Getting Around).

EMERGENCY NUMBERS POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services.

SAFETY TIPS If you’re staying in a hotel, lock up valuables in the room or hotel safe When driving, always keep valuables in the boot of the car rather than on the passenger seat. Keep the windows up and the doors locked Don’t leave valuable items visible in a parked car Don’t stroll down a street talking on your cellphone Pay attention to what is going on around you Don’t show off expensive jewellery, watches or cameras Never accept help from strangers at an ATM Opt for using an ATM inside a bank or mall Areas such as Alexandra, Hillbrow, Yeoville and Joubert Park should only be visited with a tour guide September 2014 – January 2015

Joburg Basics Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366. It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7. MAYS CHEMIST A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00– 21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

Traditional healer, Alex

MEDIA South Africa has a free press although controversial government attempts to pass a Protection of Information Bill could result in restrictions. It ranked 52nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2013 press freedom index. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. Try Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), Daily Maverick (www.dailymaverick. co.za), Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za) or Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co.za). Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9). SABC (www.sabc.co.za) is the public broadcaster, and e.TV and eNCA (www.etv. co.za and www.enca.com) are free-to-air channels.

MORNINGSIDE DISPENSARY An after-hours pharmacy.QThe Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588, scripts@morningsidedispensary.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 09:00–21:00. NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL A level-1 trauma centre caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. Open 24/7. NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7. THE SMILE FACTORY For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786. QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

LOCAL PRICES

PLACES OF WORSHIP

Cappuccino R18 Cigarettes (pack of 20) R35 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Gautrain: O.R. Tambo to Sandton R135 Litre of petrol R13 Local beer (in a bar) R20 Mineral water (500ml) R8 Therapeutic massage (1 hour) R400

Christians are in the majority in South Africa, but there is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity. Joburg has many places of worship and spiritual sites. Some are made of bricks and mortar while others are public spaces that on weekends are commissioned as ‘houses’ of worship. In suburbs like Yeoville and Hillbrow you can follow the sounds of the charismatic preachers from Nigeria and Cameroon, who set up in backyards and under makeshift tarpaulins. On weekends many public parks are commandeered by followers of the Zion Christian Church (ZCC), one of the largest in Southern Africa. You will see groups of people dressed in blue-and-white, green-and-white or khaki suits, a trademark silver star identifying their allegiance to the church. The Shembe Church also commands millions of followers. Atop Yeoville Ridge different preachers mark out territory for worship as this is the highest green space in the inner city, believed to bring followers closer to their god.

MEDICAL CARE Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock. EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST This practice offers emergency medical and dental care. 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC), a liberation movement which became a political party after fighting against apartheid and for a non-racial democracy. The country has a multiparty political system johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics and more than 10 political parties in Parliament. The current president is Jacob Zuma.

SOUTH AFRICANISMS

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe. While English is the lingua franca, cultural diversity has created a South African language of its own. Key words include:

South Africa has 12 public holidays. No matter how solemn their intention, they are regarded by most as shopping-extravaganza days. Most big malls are open on all public holidays (see Shopping). Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday. January 1 March 21 April 18 April 21 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. You might find that some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’ as Zimbabwe’s capital falls in the same time zone. There is no daylight saving time.

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

Aweh Awesome Bakkie Pick-up truck Boerewors Sausage of minced meat and spices Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994 Bro or Boet Brother, meaning friend Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European and African origin Dagga or zol Marijuana Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder Howzit How are you? Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans) Jissis, boet ‘Yeah, man’ – for example ‘Jissis, boet, I’m gonna smash those weights at the gym!’ Just now or Now-now Any time in the near future, from two minutes to many hours Lanie A boss or smarty-pants Lekker Tasty or cool Mahala Free of charge Monkeygland sauce A fruity, tangy meat dressing (there’s no monkey in it) Mzansi A Zulu word meaning ‘south’, used to refer to South Africa Robot Traffic light Sawubona A greeting in Zulu Sharp! Great! Shisha nyama A braai, often outside a butcher shop Sho’t left A stop close by in taxi-commuter lingo Spaza shop An informal convenience store Tokoloshe A mischievous evil spirit Tsotsi Someone up to no good Walkie Talkie Boiled, seasoned and grilled chicken feet Yebo Yes (in Zulu)

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, city council workers, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the minimum, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Cushions by iwasshot in joburg :)

September 2014 – January 2015

CITY CENTRE MAP

Coming up Over the next few months Joburg is in for some exciting new developments, many of which we we are planning to cover in more detail in our February 2015 issue. These are some of the highlights:

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF A huge boon for the city and for ultra-luxe accommodation options. The Four Seasons has taken the city’s best location, formerly the site of the salmon-pink Westcliff Hotel, offering panoramic views over the prettiest suburbs and green spaces. Executive chef Dirk Gieselmann, who previously served as Chef de Cuisine at the famed Michelin three-star Auberge de l’Ill restaurant in France’s Alsace region, is planning a shakeup of the local culinary scene at the hotel’s two restaurants, Flames, offering a casual bistro menu (with a South African-style braai) overlooking the treetops on a spacious terrace, and View, contemporary haute cuisine in an intimate dining space. We are especially looking forward to the Westcliff Deli, the neighbourhood’s new street-side café.QDue to open December 1. Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff Johannesburg, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel +27 11 481 6000, www. fourseasons.com/johannesburg.

NEWTOWN JUNCTION The city’s until-now dusty cultural and heritage precinct, Newtown, is set for lift-off with the opening of Newtown Junction, a R1.3-billion shopping, restaurant and lifestyle complex. A new boutique hotel, The Majestic, is also set to open next to the Market Theatre. The site incorporates the potato sheds built in 1912 and the design has focused on incorporating their rich historical and heritage elements. QDue to open October. Miriam Makeba and President Sts. See Newtown Junction on Facebook. THE SHEDS@1FOX A food, wine and lifestyle emporium that aims to showcase South African produce and design will soon open in what was once a complex of mining warehouses at the city’s western edge. A pop-up market is planned and performances and events will take place there during the Joburg City Festival (see What’s On).QDue to open October 2014. Between Fox and Main Sts, Ferreirasdorp.

Street index A Albertina Sisulu Rd 45 Albrecht St G-4/5 Ameshoff St C-2 Anderson St 5 Auret St G-4/5 B Barney Simon St B-4 Beit St F/G-3 Bertha St C-2/3 Bertrams St H-2/3 Betty St G-4/5 Biccard St C-2/3 Bree St 4 C Carr St A/B/C-4 Central Rd A-4/5 Charlton Terrace G-2 Commercial Rd A-5 Commissioner St 54 D Dawe St H-4 De Beer St C-2/3 De Korte St B/C/D-2/3 De Villiers St D-3 Delvers St E-5 Diagonal St C-4/5 Dolly Rathebe Rd A-4 Durban St E/F/G-5 E Edith Cavell St E-4 Eendracht St B-2/3

Eloff St D-3/4/5 Empire Rd A/B/C/D-1 Enoch Sontonga Ave A-2 F Ferreira St C-5 Fox St 54 Frederick St D/E-5 G Gerard Sekoto St C-4/5 Gordon Terrace G-2 Goud St F-4/5 Greene St F-4/5 Gwigwi Mrwebi St A/B/C-4 H Hall St C-5 Harrison St D-3/4/5 Henri St B-2/3 Henry Nxumalo St B-4 High St A-5 Hoofd St C/D-2 Hospital St D-2 J Jan Smuts Ave B-1/2 Jeppe St 4 John Page Drv H-4/5 Jorrissen St B-2 Joubert St D-1/2 Jules St G/H-5 Juta St B/C/D-2/3 K Kerk St C/D/E/F-4 Kort St C-5

66 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Kotze St D/E-2 Kruger Rd G-4/5 Kruis St E-4/5 L Lilian Rd A-4/5 Loveday St D M Mahlathini St A/B-4 Main St 5 Main Reef Rd A/B-5 Margaret Mcingana St C-5 Maritzburg St G-4/5 Marshall St 5 Melle St C-1/2/3 Mint Rd A-4/5 Miriam Makeba St C-4/5 Mooi St F-4/5 N Nelson Mandela Bridge C-3 Ntemi Piliso St C/D-4/5 Nugget St F-3/4/5 P Park St G/H-4/5 Phillip St F-4/5 Polly St E-4/5 President St B/C/D/E/F-4 Pritchard St C/D/E/F-4 Q Queen Elizabeth Bridge C-3 Quinn St B-4/5 R Rissik St D

S Saratoga Ave F-2 Sauer St C-4/5 Siemert St F-3/4/5 Simmonds St C-2/3 and D-4/5 Sivewright Ave G-3 and F-4 Smal St E-5 Smit St B/C/D-3 and E-2 South Park Ln G-3 Staib St G-3/4 Station St B-2/3 Stiemens St C-2 T Troye St E-4/5 V Verwey St G-4 Village Rd D-6 Von Brandis St D-4 and E-5 Von Weilligh St E-4/5 Voorhout St G-4 and H-3 W Wilhelmina St H-3/4 Wolmarans St C/D/E-3 Y Yard Rd B-1/2 Yale B2/3

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