Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 4, Feb-Apr 2015

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg February – April 2015

Market daze

Joburg food trucks on a roll

Heart-stoppers Ten thrilling rides

N°4 - R35 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 A round-up of the best events

Neighbourhoods

14

Find your way around

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

19

Rooms to suit all budgets

Where to eat

Sunset over Joburg

23

Darren M. Smith, Smart R Media

Restaurants, cafés and coffee shops

Market daze

32

Food trucks, cool kids and neighbourhood stops

Nightlife

38

Best hotel bars and other nocturnal delights

Sightseeing 42 Twelve iconic buildings 42 City tours 43 The Mandela trail 44 City of gold 45 House museums 46 Meet your ancestors 47 Alexandra 47 Soweto 48 Pretoria 51 Shopping

Coming up

66

Things to look forward to

Street index

66

All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65

53

How to spend your money

Sport & outdoors

57

Joburg for thrillseekers and aspirant boxers

Joburg basics

59

Essential information for your stay

Maps Neighbourhoods 15 Soweto 48 Sandton 63 City Centre 64 EDITOR’S NOTE The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2015

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Foreword A lot can change in a Joburg minute. A flourishing market scene is proof, with new venues having popped up from Soweto to Fourways, and everywhere in between. ‘Artisanal’ has become the word of the day, referring to highly crafted food and experiences. Don’t be put off by the pretentiousness the term conveys. The real news is the blossoming of myriad spaces to hang out, meet the people, eat great food, sample local produce and products, survey contemporary design or even find a cure for myriad ailments. From hipster havens to the muti market we have gathered what we think is a fine list of ways to spend sunny days. Follow our guide to finding the best African food, to 12 decades of city architecture and Joburg’s preoccupation with pugilism. And of course, so much more. With the support of Joburg Tourism and the Gauteng Tourism Authority we welcome visitors to February’s Meetings Africa and strongly suggest you use your time here to explore the city and the province’s shiny gems with Johannesburg In Your Pocket as your guide.

Publisher IYP City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researcher Sindi Vilakazi Contributors Carrie Adams, Nechama Brodie @Brodiegal, Liz Delmont @lizatlancaster, Brian Kent, Heather Mason @2Summers, Zanele Mashumi and Anna Trapido Photography Darren M. Smith @DazMSmith, Justin Lee @JustinLeePhotos, Heather Mason @2Summers, Mark Straw @JoburgCulture, Mark Lewis, and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER STORY

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.

Our cover photograph was shot

by Mark Lewis in Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown. Amexicano is one of many (and certainly one of the prettiest) food trucks traversing the city’s markets, and it’s a trend we are eager to see thrive. Thanks to operators Martha’s Mojo for extreme patience as we waited for a rain-free day to perfect the shoot.

To see more of Lewis’s work, go to www.fourthwallbooks.com and buy up his entire Wake Up, This is Joburg series, a collaboration with writer Tanya Zack.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Print run 10 000 copies, published February, May and September.

ISSN 2311-3944

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

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HUNGARY

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4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently preparing a new round of expansion for 2015.

New cities due to be pocketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot.

And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to.

In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Highlights

A Jewel Boutique in the Heart of Sandton, Johannesburg.

For an appointment Call: + 27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121

Road Range by Love Jozi

JOBURG IN THE NEWS As 2014 came to a close, Joburg emerged with titles worthy of a prizefighter, including the most visited city in Africa (Mastercard Global Destinations City Index 2014) and the second most inspiring city in the world (US Good magazine) for being a hub of progress, a city of engagement, street life, diversity and abundant opportunity. The city also made the list of top 12 art cities of the future, compiled by prominent international art book publisher Phaidon Press.

For our part we are enjoying the positive attention Joburg is getting as much as we are its plentiful new attractions, among them the Four Seasons Westcliff Hotel (see Where to Stay and Where to Eat); Greenside’s urban food hall, The Greensider (see Market Daze); and Ubuntu Kraal Kasi Beer Garden, home of Soweto Gold Craft Brewery (see Sightseeing: Soweto).

SHELF LIFE Cool things not to leave Joburg without: Love Jozi’s latest T-shirts, Road Range, are inspired by the rules of the road, the world of minibus taxis, the blur of reflector stripes and encounters with the metro police. The quirky new designs map out the city and are the perfect embodiment of its street culture.QSee www.lovejozi.com.

Shaun Gaylard’s A-Z Guide to Architects of the World started out as a gift idea – a hand-drawn personal guide to the world’s standout buildings for his partner, also a fan of architecture. Next came a series of ink-on-paper drawings featuring city architecture. Now Gaylard has produced a series of ceramic plates featuring Joburg buildings to hang on your wall or be the centrepiece of your next dinner party.

For more on Joburg cityscapes, see ‘One City, Twelve Icons' on page 42.QSee www.blankinkdesign.com.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SHO’T LEFT In South African parlance taking a sho’t left – derived from minibus taxi lingo – means jumping off at a nearby destination. It’s an invitation to explore beyond the places you know and have become accustomed to. At the heart of Gauteng, South Africa’s richest province, is Joburg and while it’s a world on its own, there is plenty to do beyond its borders. Expand your horizons by sandboarding on the East Rand’s mine dumps or water-skiing at the Vaal Dam. Visit Pretoria to see a city remaking itself as a cool capital with design at its centre or take a tour of Cullinan, the location of the third-richest diamond mine in the country and the place where the world’s largest diamond (3 106 carats) was found in 1905.

With Johannesburg In Your Pocket your sho’t left starts here.

For more suggestions, download the Gauteng Tourism app (iPhone or Android), visit www.gauteng.net, follow #GeePeeShotLeft on Twitter or I Love Gauteng on Facebook.

February – April 2015

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What’s On CONCERTS February 7

The Script. Crocodile Creek Polo Club, Lanseria, www.bigconcerts.co.za

Until 15

The Greatest Love of All: The Whitney Houston Story. Joburg Theatre

14–15

James Blunt. Big Top Arena, Carnival City

14

Love Swings: Gloria Bosman, Timothy Moloi and the Johannesburg Big Band. Lyric Theatre

14

Ultra South Africa. Armin van Buuren headlines one of the biggest dance events of the year. Nasrec Expo Centre, www.ultrasouthafrica.com

14

Passenger. Zoo Lake

19 Feb–8 Mar

Elvis the Show. With Nathan Belt.

Joburg Theatre

20

The Parlotones. Lyric Theatre

25–26

Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra (JPO). Linder Auditorium, www. jpo.co.za

26-27

Jason Mraz. Teatro at Montecasino

March Rock the Run. 5km, 10km and 21km runs followed by a music festival with Mango Groove, Matthew Mole and Mi Casa. Mushroom Farm Park, Sandton, www.rocktherun.co.za

1

4–5, 11–12, 18–19

Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra. Linder Auditorium, www.jpo.co.za

7

Axecess Jozi 2015 hip-hop festival featuring School Boy Q and Tyga. Mary Fitzgerald Square

21

Sowing the Seeds Festival featuring Ben Howard, Emmarentia Dam, www. sowingtheseeds.co.za

21–22

Michael Bublé. Coca-Cola Dome

28

Rise and Shine Festival. Sandton Central Park, www.riseshinefest.co.za

28

Drum Beat Festival. Top South African jazz, afro-pop, hip hop and house acts.

Soweto Theatre For the latest updates on What’s On, see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Elvis the Show, Joburg Theatre

CONCERTS AND FESTIVALS LAST FRIDAY OF THE MONTH SOPHIATOWN JAZZ ENCOUNTERS Some of Joburg’s leading jazz names regularly perform at this intimate monthly event in the historic Sophiatown Heritage Centre (see Sightseeing). Take your own drinks along – ice is provided at the venue.QSophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre, www.sophiatown.net. Tickets R100–R110.

FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH THE WARM UP JOZI Forget pop and R&B – this city moves to a deep house beat and there’s no cooler place to be than at one of Joburg’s most popular rooftop DJ parties.QG-4, Citilec Rooftop, 246 Main St, Maboneng, TheWarmUpJozi.

From 14:00. Tickets R150.

LAST SUNDAY OF THE MONTH PARK ACOUSTICS This open-air festival is one of the best regular music events in the country, with a new line-up every month of established and up-and-coming South African bands playing all genres.QVoortrekker Monument, www. parkacoustics.co.za. From 10:00. Tickets from R100 (online); R120 at the gate.

UNTIL 08.02 SUNDAY INTERNATIONAL MOZART FESTIVAL This year’s festival is themed ‘Masquerade’ and the packed schedule is filled with concerts by major local and international orchestras, quartets and soloists.QVarious venues, www.join-mozart-festival.org.

01.02 SUNDAY – 28.02 SATURDAY SOPHIATOWN ANNIVERSARY A number of events, including tours, talks and special exhibitions, are taking place in Sophiatown during February 2015 to mark the 60th anniversary of the apartheid forced removals which destroyed the neighbourhood and one of the country’s legendary cultural melting pots (see Sightseeing for more about Sophiatown).QSophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre, sophiatown.net. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Curiocity_IYPGC_Advert_03122014_NODE.pdf

What’s On

19.02 FRIDAY – 22.02 SUNDAY JOZI FILM FESTIVAL Showcasing local and international filmmakers whose work has been inspired by Joburg.QVarious venues including the Bioscope, www.jozifilmfestival.co.za.

01.03 SUNDAY – 31.03 TUESDAY FRANCOPHONIE 2015 Led by IFAS (the Institut Français), the city celebrates all things French this month with concerts, films, exhibitions, culinary events, performances and workshops.Qwww. ifas.org.za.

14.03 SATURDAY – 15.03 SUNDAY CELEBRATION OF BUBBLES Gourmet food, live music and over 25 South African and international producers showcasing their finest Cap Classiques and Champagnes.QInanda Polo Club, Sandton, www.inandaclub.co.za.

Developed for curious urbanites, Curiocity invites you to explore an undiscovered world in the heart of one of Johannesburg’s oldest suburbs. Situated in the vibrant cultural neighbourhood of Maboneng, Curiocity offers its guests a guided experience through Johannesburg’s inner city, its people and diverse cultures.

03.04 FRIDAY – 12.04 SUNDAY RAND SHOW Africa’s biggest lifestyle expo boasts hundreds of exhibiC tors, although for many the main attraction is the entertainment which includes a funfair, stunt drivers, military M demonstrations, circus performers, live music and chef displays.QNasrec Expo Centre, www.randshow.co.za.Y CM GOURMET EVENTS The Forum Company is one of the city’s leading gourmet MY events organisers, famous for their fabulous venues and award-winning food. This season they are hosting three CY events across their two landmark venues: Turbine Hall, a CMY former power station in Newtown which has been given a magnificent makeover, and White Light, a scenic farmK house near Lanseria, where they grow all the fresh produce used in their catering.QAdvance booking is essential. www.theforum.co.za.

14.02 15.02 20.03

Valentine’s Underground Dinner, Turbine Hall Valentine’s Farm to Table, White Light St Patrick’s Day Tapas in the City, Turbine Hall

EXHIBITIONS Private galleries are part of Joburg’s dynamic contemporary art scene and are all free to enter. Opening nights are generally held on Thursdays and artist walkabouts on Saturdays.

UNTIL 30.04 THURSDAY RISE AND FALL OF APARTHEID: PHOTOGRAPHY An incredible 800 photographs, artworks, films, videos, documents, posters and periodicals have been brought together to create a comprehensive historical overview of the varying responses to apartheid in pictures and words.QMuseuMAfricA, B-4, 121 Bree St (Mary Fitzgerald Sq), Newtown, tel. +27 11 833 5624, www.riseandfallofapartheid. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2015

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4

What’s On

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On JOBURG ART SCENE

Colbert Mashile, Nirox Projects

UNTIL 21.02 SATURDAY WAYNE BARKER Using paint, found objects, video and beadwork, ‘badboy’ artist Wayne Barker explores life in the city suburb of Troyeville, replete with anarchy and contradiction.

QCirca Gallery.

UNTIL 22.02 SUNDAY TAPESTRIES: WILLIAM KENTRIDGE An exceptional display of close to 40 tapestries created as a collaboration between the internationally renowned William Kentridge and the Stephens Tapestry Studio.

QWits Art Museum.

UNTIL 28.02 THURSDAY OTHER PEOPLE’S MEMORIES An A-list group exhibition of new work exploring the themes of history and memory. Featured artists include internationally renowned photographer, David Goldblatt, and contemporary art world favourite, William Kentridge.

QGoodman Gallery.

Joburg’s Gallery Row runs along Jan Smuts Avenue, between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues in Parkwood. Start at Circa Gallery and Everard Read (cnr Jellicoe Ave) for impressive collections and temporary exhibitions from established and emerging artists. Take a turn onto 52 7th Avenue to Gallery MOMO for African contemporary art. Then head back to Jan Smuts Avenue (cnr Chester Rd) to see roadside bead art and the prestigious Goodman Gallery. Along this stretch you’ll find many independent galleries including the excellent Res Gallery known for provocative photographic exhibits, Lizamore & Associates specialising in fine art, the David Krut Bookstore for books that resemble works of art (www.davidkrutprojects.com), and Kim Sacks Gallery for ceramics and African artefacts (www.kimsacks.com).

Many artists work out of studio spaces downtown where you’ll also find a crop of independent galleries. In Maboneng take your pick from Arts on Main, pop-up container spaces, studios and the innovative Nirox Projects (264 Fox St). Don’t miss the impressive Wits Arts Museum in Braamfontein for its incredible collection of African art and exciting temporary exhibitions, and nearby Stevenson Gallery at 62 Juta Street. In the city centre corporate sponsorship leads the way at the excellent Standard Bank Art Gallery.

CIRCA GALLERY | EVERARD READQTel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery.co.za, www.everard-read.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY MOMOQTel. 52 7th Ave, Johannesburg, +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun.

UNTIL 03.03 TUESDAY TUTANKHAMUN: HIS TOMB AND TREASURES Over 1,000 carefully constructed copies of burial treasures from the boy king’s tomb are on display at this educational and interactive exhibition.QSilverstar Casino, R28, Muldersdrift, Mogale City, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 11 662 7300, tut-exhibition.co.za.

GOODMAN GALLERYQTel. +27 11 788 1113, www. goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30– 16:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

07.02 SATURDAY – 14.03 SATURDAY MANHIÇA: FROM THE CHAPEL TO THE SHRINE Mozambican artist Vasco Manhiça’s highly covetable artworks reflect his cultural origins and the vibrant Maputo art scene of which he is part, mixing natural colours, rich symbolism and graphic elements.QRes Gallery.

RES GALLERYQTel. +27 11 880 4054, www.resgallery. com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. Closed Sun.

12.02 THURSDAY – 20.03 FRIDAY DEBORAH POYNTON Fifteen large-scale landscape and figurative paintings with rich romantic scenes of natural beauty that create a profound sense of longing.QStevenson Gallery, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-13:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATESQTel. +27 11 880 8802, www.lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat10:00– 15:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

NIROX PROJECTSQG-4, Cnr Main and Berea Sts, tel. +27 72 350 4326, www.niroxarts.com, Open 10:00– 16:00. Closed Mon. STANDARD BANK ART GALLERYQD-5, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00.

Closed Sun, public holidays.

WITS ART MUSEUM (WAM)QB-2, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam.

Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. February – April 2015

9

What’s On 05.03 THURSDAY – 09.05 SATURDAY ELEANOR COPPOLA: CIRCLE OF MEMORY In 1986 Coppola’s son was killed in a boating accident.

While in mourning, with the help of five other artists, she created this large installation, which is inspired by a Celtic passage tomb and intended to help visitors remember and celebrate the memory of children who have died or disappeared.QCirca Gallery.

05.03 THURSDAY – 11.04 SATURDAY JOHAN THOM A mixed-media exhibition including sculptures and installations by this up-and-coming South African conceptual artist. Not for the fainthearted.QGoodman Gallery.

15.03 SUNDAY – 08.04 WEDNESDAY COLBERT MASHILE: THE BEAST OF BURDEN Sketches and etchings questioning man’s use of animals for commercial purposes in this modern era of high-tech machines.QNirox Projects.

DANCE UMBRELLA 26.02 SATURDAY – 15.03 SUNDAY An outstanding array of contemporary dance performances. This year the festival is opening itself to a wider audience by offering three fringe programmes in addition to the blockbuster main festival: a Young Choreographers Programme, the Street Beat Dance programme (focused on hip hop, pantsula and youth group performances) and the Negotiating Space programme, a mix of dance and multimedia artworks.QVarious venues, www. danceforumsouthafrica.co.za.

21.03 SATURDAY – 18.04 SATURDAY PIERRE MATHIEU: LAST RESORT Based in Joburg and with a background in aid work, Mathieu’s paintings and collages are inspired by the many environmental and social difficulties facing Africa.QRes Gallery.

16.04 THURSDAY – 16.05 SATURDAY LISA BRICE The Cape Town-based artist’s newest works include vividly coloured canvases that tackle difficult emotional experiences.QGoodman Gallery.

THEATRE AND DANCE 17.02 TUESDAY – 14.03 SATURDAY DOUBLE BASS A humorous and poignant monologue filled with anecdotes and music from a beer-drinking bass player who reflects on his life and trade as a state orchestra musician.

QAuto & General Theatre on the Square.

03.03 TUESDAY – 22.03 SUNDAY MHLA SALAMANA: WHEN OUR EYES MET Award-winning drama about infidelity, the breakdown of a relationship and its subsequent effect on a young child caught in the middle.QSoweto Theatre.

17.03 TUESDAY – 12.04 SUNDAY AN AUDIENCE WITH PIETER-DIRK EISH! The famed South African satirist delivers his opinion on a range of topics in the guise of some of the best characters from his long comedy career.QPieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino.

24.03 TUESDAY – 19.04 SUNDAY MAMMA MIA! Set to the greatest ABBA hits, old friends and new lovers share love and laughter on the eve of a wedding on a Greek island paradise in this international smash-hit musical.QTeatro at Montecasino.

07.04 TUESDAY – 25.04 SATURDAY HINTERLAND In this fictional period piece, colonialist and empire builder Cecil John Rhodes and ANC founding father Sol Plaatje meet in Kimberley in 1899. The resulting encounter leads to much humour, pathos, heartbreak and bitterness.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square.

EVENT TICKETS Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web. Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www. webtickets.co.za. Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, www.ticketpros. co.za.

See our Facebook page for event updates, or to sign up for our weekly What’s On newsletter.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On CHINESE NEW YEAR 19.02 THURSDAY – 28.02 SATURDAY Joburg’s Old Chinatown on Commissioner Street (B/C5, City Centre) celebrates Chinese New Year with fireworks, street food stalls and traditional entertainment (Saturday 21.02). The following Saturday (28.02) it is usually the turn of the brash New Chinatown on Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene (see page 26, www.tcagp.co.za for details). Lined with restaurants (book well in advance), families and friends spend the early evening eating and drinking as the Chinese dragon and his noisy entourage make their way up the street. Expect boisterous crowds and be wary of pickpockets and wayward fireworks.

Swan Lake, Joburg Theatre

Lauge Sorensen

17.04 FRIDAY – 03.05 SUNDAY SWAN LAKE Cuban prima ballerina Viengsay Valdés and US ballet star Brooklyn Mack join the dynamic Joburg Ballet company to breathe new life into this much-loved, timeless classic.

QJoburg Theatre.

25.04 SATURDAY – 26.04 SUNDAY CROWN OF THE RUSSIAN BALLET The Moscow-based ballet company presents a gala performance dedicated to Tchaikovsky’s 150th birthday which includes numerous scenes from his three most famous ballets: Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker.QTheatre of Marcellus, Emperor’s Palace.

FAMILY FUN UNTIL 15.03 SUNDAY ANDRÉ THE HILARIOUS HYPNOTIST An evening of good, old-fashioned family fun from South Africa’s most popular stage hypnotist. No two shows are ever the same and André never fails to leave his audiences crying with laughter.QPieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino.

BACK TO THE CITY 27.04 MONDAY Attracting up to 20,000 people each year, this is Africa’s biggest hip hop and street culture festival. Three live stages spread across Mary Fitzgerald Square and surrounds, with well-known MCs, beatboxers, rappers and dancers performing throughout the day, while basketball courts, skating ramps, graffiti areas and a market selling street-style merchandise also set up camp. If you are curious about what’s cool among the new generation of ‘Born Free’ South Africans, this is the place.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, www.backtothecityfestival.com. Tickets R60–R180.

MORE THEATRES The Market Theatre is Joburg’s leading drama stage, offering groundbreaking productions based on the works of local and international playwrights.QCnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, www.markettheatre.co.za. At P.O.P. Art Theatre patrons get to drink wine, eat popcorn and enjoy hour-long experimental productions. Stand-up comedy every Sunday from 19:30.Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www.popartcentre. co.za. See their websites for the latest shows. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

See Venues box for address information and contact details, and our website for updates.

February – April 2015

11

What’s On VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za BASSLINE B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za CARNIVAL CITY Casino and Entertainment World, cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www.carnivalcitycasino.co.za COCA-COLA DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www.coca-coladome.co.za ELLIS PARK STADIUM G-3 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 8644, www.ellispark.co.za EMPEROR'S PALACE 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za FNB STADIUM Nasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www. joburgtheatre.com LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za LYRIC THEATRE Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Complex, Northern Park Way, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, www.montecasino.co.za NATIONAL CHILDREN'S THEATRE 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www. nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za THE ORBIT C-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645 or +27 78 398 6250, www.theorbit.co.za THE SANDS 58 Wierda Rd East, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 1302 SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE Maude St, Sandton Central, Tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE AND CULTURAL CENTRE 73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, www.sophiatown.net SA STATE THEATRE 320 Pretorius St, Pretoria City Centre, tel. +27 12 322 7944, www.statetheatre.co.za SOWETO THEATRE Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, www.promusica.co.za SUPERSPORT PARK Centurion West Rd, Centurion, tel. +27 12 663 1005, www.cricket.co.za VOORTREKKER MONUMENT Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 326 6770 WANDERERS STADIUM 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, www.wanderers.co.za 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

09.02 MONDAY – 06.03 FRIDAY UNDER THE BAOBAB TREE A charming selection of stories and songs, including music

by South African greats Johnny Clegg, Miriam Makeba and Mango Groove, the show aims to remind children of the beauty and wonder of South Africa’s unique culture and heritage.QNational Children’s Theatre.

09.03 MONDAY – 12.04 SUNDAY HEIDI This delightful interactive staging of the classic children’s story is a fun-filled adventure promising thrills, spills, laughter and a few tears.QNational Children’s Theatre.

CINEMA For Hollywood blockbusters there is Nu-Metro (tel.

0861 24 63 62, www.numetro.co.za) or Ster-Kinekor cinemas (tel. +27 82 167 89, www.sterkinekor.com). For a luxury experience try Cine Prestige at the Zone@ Rosebank. For indie and arthouse films get to a Cinema Nouveau (operated by Ster-Kinekor) or the tiny independent cinema Bioscope (286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za).

For Hollywood to Bollywood there is Cine Centre (60 Riviera Rd, Killarney Mall, www.cinecentre.co.za).

FOR BOOKLOVERS Bookworms and bibliophiles can find plenty of places to meet like-minded fans of the written word in Joburg.

The Love Books store in Melville hosts regular book launches and discussions with local writers and critics; the Troyeville Hotel Book Club invites writers to discuss their latest works over wine and Portuguese food; David Krut Bookstore specialises in art books and often hosts book launches; and Book Revue is also worth looking out for. The city has a thriving poetry scene – visit the monthly Word n Sound open mic session (first Saturday of the month) or the Jozi House of Poetry event (last Sunday of the month) to discover Africa’s hottest new poetry talent. Look out for the Sunday Times Literary Awards (bookslive.co.za) shortlist for recommended local works. For bookshops see Shopping.

LOVE BOOKS Bamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za.

JOZI HOUSE OF POETRY Afrikan Freedom Station, 41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za.

DAVID KRUT BOOKSTORE 151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 5646, www.davidkrutprojects.com.

TROYEVILLE HOTEL BOOK CLUB H-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www. troyevillehotel.co.za.

WORD N SOUND OPEN MIC NIGHT B-4, Market Theatre Laboratory, 3 President St Newtown, www.wordnsound. wordpress.com.

BOOK REVUE thebookrevuejohannesburg. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On SPORT EVENTS FOOTBALL The PSL is South Africa’s top football league. The Soweto teams Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates have long dominated the league with intense rivalry and passionate followings. Orlando Stadium is Pirates homeground, while Chiefs play at FNB Stadium, where the massively popular Soweto Derby takes place. Show your allegiance: Pirates fans cross their forearms to make the sign of the crossbones, while Chiefs make a peace sign with their fingers.

4.03 7.03 10.03 18.03 8.04 21.04 22.04 29.04

Kaizer Chiefs vs Ajax Cape Town Soweto Derby. Kick-off at 15:30 Orlando Pirates vs Chippa United Orlando Pirates vs Mpumalanga Black Aces Kaizer Chiefs vs AmaZulu Orlando Pirates vs Pretoria University Kaizer Chiefs vs Polokwane City Orlando Pirates vs SuperSport United

CRICKET Watch matches at the Bidvest Wanderers Stadium (known as the Bull Ring), home of Joburg’s local cricket team, the Bizhub Highveld Lions.Q35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, www.wanderers.co.za.

19–22.02 Bizhub Highveld Lions vs Sunfoil Dolphins 26–29.03 Bizhub Highveld Lions vs Chevrolet Warriors RUGBY Rugby is one of the country’s biggest sports. The national team, the Springboks, is loved by all. Joburg’s team is the Lions, who play out of Ellis Park Stadium.QEllis Park, G-3, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. 27 11 402 2960, www.ellispark.co.za.

13.02 28.02 4.04 11.04 25.04

Lions vs Hurricanes Lions vs Stormers Lions vs Bulls Lions vs Sharks Lions vs Cheetahs

GOLF Blessed with fantastic weather throughout the year and dozens of worldclass golf courses, Joburg is a golfing paradise. Booking a tee time is relatively easy, even as a non-member.

Check out www.lastminutegolf.co.za for tee time deals.

Courses tend to be much quieter during the week and many are closed on Mondays. Read our golfing special feature online for a guide to the city’s best courses.

26.02–01.03 Joburg Open – Royal Johannesburg and Kensington 12–15.03 Tshwane Open – Copperleaf, Centurion facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Soweto fans

Darren M. Smith, Smart R Media

RUNNING Running with a group is one of the best ways to escape the treadmill in Joburg. Many running clubs gather for weekly time trials and you don’t need to be a member to join in. For aspiring trail runners and cross-country fans, there are weekly 5km Park Run events at parks around the city (find a run near you at www.parkrun.co.za). There are competitive road races taking places somewhere in Gauteng most weeks – see www.runnersguide.co.za for a calendar of upcoming events.

NIKE RUNNING CLUB 3.5km and 5km runs leave from the Nike store at The Zone@Rosebank Wed at 17:30 (registration at 17:00), tel. +27 11 447 7444.

PIRATES SPORTS CLUB 8km and 5km time trials Tuesday at 17:45, 10km-21km club run Sunday at 07:00.Q25 Braeside St, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 5025, piratesclub.co.za.

LEGENDARY STADIUMS South Africans love their sport and each of Joburg’s major stadiums has a unique atmosphere and a special place in international sporting history.

ELLIS PARK STADIUM In 1995 Nelson Mandela took to the pitch here wearing a Springbok jersey to present the Rugby World Cup trophy in a key symbolic moment of post-apartheid reconciliation. James Dalton senior runs the stadium’s Springbok museum, a must-see for fans of the game.

Call in advance to organise a behind-the-scenes tour (open weekdays 10:00–15:00, entrance via main gate).

QG-3, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 2960, www.ellispark.co.za.

FNB STADIUM Also known as Soccer City, this iconic 94 000-seat venue with its colourful exterior (designed to resemble a calabash) was rebuilt for the 2010 World Cup and is home to Kaizer Chiefs. Book a one-hour stadium tour.QNasrec Rd and Stadium Ave, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.stadiummanagement.co.za.

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Neighbourhoods Cyrildene, a world in a few blocks. This is the stop for the widest variety of Asian restaurants and stores that will have you feeling that you need to brush up on your Mandarin.

CITY CENTRE (see map on pages 64–65) The place that locals call the ‘inner city’, ‘town’ or ‘CBD’ has long been the victim of a poor reputation, but that is changing. Its residential life has grown immensely and it has plenty of attractions, including a rich collection of public art; the Ethiopian district; the Fashion Kapitol; the historic pedestrianised Main Street; Africa’s tallest building, the Carlton Centre (from the top floor you can enjoy panoramic views of the city and beyond); traditional medicine markets and a fascinating mining history.

Chinatown, Commissioner Street

Extreme wealth and dire poverty coexist in many neighbourhoods, but the city today is also more integrated than it has ever been. While a black middle class is emerging, the process of recovering from years of oppression and division is nowhere near complete. Twenty years after embracing democracy, Joburg is trying hard to define the shape of its future, and there are many bright spots on the map already.

The neighbourhoods highlighted here all have a distinctive feel and something unique to offer. For the top attractions, see Sightseeing.

ALEXANDRA The township of Alex may be a historical anomaly but it is also home to thousands of people and expresses the city’s diversity and income gap in a few square kilometres. Culturally in Soweto’s shadow, Alex is starting to wake up to its potential as a tourist destination. To visit the area it is best to arrange a tour (see Sightseeing).

BRAAMFONTEIN Joined to Newtown by the Nelson Mandela Bridge, hip ‘Braamies’ is home to the Neighbourgoods Saturday Market, excellent museums, the Joburg Theatre, bars, restaurants, galleries, fashionable stores (see Shopping) and Wits University. No visit is complete without a stop at The Orbit, the hottest jazz club in town, and at the inspiring Constitution Hill, one of Joburg’s best museum attractions (see Sightseeing).

BRYANSTON AND FOURWAYS Joined to Sandton, suburban life here happens amid security suburbs, outdoor-lifestyle centres and equestrian estates, all punctuated by myriad malls. For nightlife, Montecasino is a hugely popular casino, restaurant and theatre complex. At the weekend, the Fourways Farmers’ Market is becoming a popular Sunday hangout.

CHINATOWNS (see our online feature) The city’s original Chinatown along Commissioner Street is a narrow strip with the oldest Chinese restaurant, Swallows Inn, as well as the Sui Hing Hong Supermarket, a must-see store selling everything from sex toys to firecrackers. Its brasher and much more substantial rival is in Derrick Avenue, 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FORDSBURG (see our online feature) While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history – it was once part of the farm on which gold was first discovered – and bearing the scars of its past with pride, Fordsburg today is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. With a weekend night market, spice shops, traditional sweetmeat stores and buzzing street life, Fordsburg is the heart of Joburg’s Indian and Pakistani communities. The Oriental Plaza with 360 stores is its shopping hub, while the streets of Fordsburg offer many delicious surprises by day or night.

HYDE PARK One of the most expensive suburbs, its heart is Hyde Park Corner, the city’s swankiest shopping centre filled with international designer stores, ladies who lunch, and the rest of the cappuccino-sipping, Porsche Cayenne fourwheel-drive-owning, artisanal food-buying, groomed and manicured Joburg set. Practise not gasping at the price tags and you’ll fit in just fine.

LINDEN What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity and crocheted doilies during the apartheid years. Today it is being reinvented as a cool suburb that pays ironic homage to its past. Its distinctive main street is proudly local with lots of quirky independent stores.

MABONENG The work of a single property development company, this inner-city district (officially called City and Suburban) has been converted from industrial properties to a happening lifestyle playground that is constantly in a state of reinvention. There is plenty of street art, galleries, shops and restaurants here plus the brilliant Sunday Market on Main and the Museum of African Design (MOAD). The pioneer development is Arts on Main where one of South Africa’s most famous artists, William Kentridge, has his studio.

MELVILLE, MILPARK AND AUCKLAND PARK Bohemian Melville is a celebrated nightspot slowly shaking off its reputation for trays of shooters and slightly grungy people and venues. If you’re looking for a good time, you’ll johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Neighbourhoods find it here. Together with Braamfontein, this is the city’s student capital. Auckland Park is home to the University of Johannesburg campus while the adjoining suburb of Milpark hosts a great lifestyle hub filled with local designer stores and restaurants at 44 Stanley Avenue.

local brands, and the rooftop Sunday Market is a popular stop for crafts, collectibles, kids entertainment and a great selection of food stalls. The Zone@Rosebank is a hit with the youthful crowd with cinemas and a games arcade. Nearby Illovo is a restaurant district, and Melrose Arch, a favourite of fans of sanitised street life and designer-label shopping.

NEWTOWN Joburg’s original cultural precinct is a vast heritage site incorporating the historic Market Theatre, Museum Africa, the impressively renovated Turbine Hall and the immense Mary Fitzgerald Square. The newly opened Newtown Junction, built around an open piazza, boasts a range of big-brand stores. An incredible collection of graffiti has sprung up around the area and is well worth a visit (see Sightseeing and What’s On).

SANDTON What was once vast tracts of farmland now houses the headquarters of many of the country’s top companies, the Sandton Convention Centre as well as the Johannesburg Stock Exchange. Sandton is not friendly to pedestrians or wallets but is easily accessed by the Gautrain as well as by other public transport. Considered Africa’s shopping capital, Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square are its crown jewels. Most big-name international hotels are located here. Sandton’s Kramerville suburb is Joburg’s design and décor capital, and nearby Rivonia is home to Liliesleaf Farm, once Nelson Mandela’s secret hideout and now a museum.

NORWOOD One of Johannesburg’s older suburbs, it is making a comeback led by The Factory on Grant, a stylish new space housing independent stores, a cool art gallery and a Vovo Telo bakery all set around a central courtyard. With its eclectic range of restaurants and convenient grocery stores Norwood’s Grant Avenue is on the rise. For great local gifts head to B&B Markets Norwood Mall.

SOWETO South Africa’s most famous township was once home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. But it’s not only history that makes this vast place tick. With much renovation completed and an upgraded transport network, Soweto is constructing a contemporary identity and offers unique experiences that include visiting fascinating historic landmarks like Vilakazi Street and the Hector Pieterson Museum, hipster markets, a craft-beer brewery, quad-biking and bird-watching tours.

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ROSEBANK, ILLOVO AND MELROSE Rosebank is a business and shopping hub, home to a series of malls integrated with pedestrian walkways, a permanent African craft market and lots of outdoor space. The newly renovated Rosebank Mall houses tonnes of international and

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Arriving & Getting Around GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘khow-train’) is Joburg’s pride and joy. It links central Johannesburg with the main business districts of the north and beyond to Pretoria and O.R.Tambo International airport.

GAUTRAIN GOLD CARD To use the Gautrain you must first buy a Gautrain Gold Card, available at all Gautrain stations. Top up your card at the kiosks or self-service machines. The Gold Card can be used on trains, on the Gautrain feeder buses (you must have a minimum of R20 on your card to use the bus) and to pay for the Gautrain car park. Note you must make a return train journey to be eligible for the special discounted parking rates.

GAUTRAIN ROUTES The Gautrain has three lines. The main line starts at Johannesburg Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro. The third line is a commuter service between Sandton and Rhodesfield via Marlboro. Trains run daily from 05:30–20:30 at intervals of 12–30 minutes. On weekdays the first train leaves from Sandton to the airport at 04:50 and the last train departs from the airport at 21:04.

GAUTRAIN BUSES Each Gautrain station is linked to a series of Gautrain feeder buses which can be paid for by Gold Card. If you use the train within one hour of the bus, the bus fare is R6, otherwise it costs R20. On the most popular routes buses leave every 12–20mins, otherwise buses leave every 20–40mins. Buses generally run between 06:00 and 19:30 on weekdays only. Bus route maps and timetables can be found at each Gautrain station and online at www.gautrain.co.za. Buses can also be tracked using the Gautrain app or by calling the Gautrain hotline on 0800 428 87246. Useful bus routes include: Sandton–Fourways via Montecasino (this service is also available on weekends), Sandton–Rivonia, Rosebank– Melrose Arch, Rosebank–Hyde Park, Park Station–CBD (via Main Street Mining District and Carlton Centre).

NAVIGATING THE CITY Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered singlestreet address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues.

Street names, especially those of major thoroughfares, change quickly and the erection of new street signs often does not keep pace with the renaming.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Artwork by Dave Rossouw at the Rea Vaya Orlando Stadium station

Rather than relying solely on public transport, visitors will find that renting a car makes life easier – outside the City Centre there are entire neighbourhoods that can be difficult to reach with public transport, and the situation becomes even more trying if you want to head into the countryside.

Despite rumours to the contrary, Joburg does have a large public transport system. Although it doesn’t reach nearly as many places as we would like, the city’s transport network is currently undergoing improvements and has much to offer non-motorists, especially those heading to the main tourist destinations and business districts.

AIRPORTS AND FLYING Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, and the smaller Lanseria Airport. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport lies 30km east of Sandton and is spacious, modern and easy to get around. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B – which merge after you have passed through the security checkpoints.

South African Airways (SAA) flights depart from Terminal B. For security purposes, make sure your bags are safely locked or wrapped. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands head for the viewing deck at the furthest end of international departures, and one floor up. There you will find a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, freedom fighter and national hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. Trains run from 04:50 until 21:04 at intervals of 15 to 30 minutes. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis (+27 86 124 3243, www.jiata. co.za) start from R16 p/km. Follow the signs in the airport to the taxi booking office. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around LANSERIA AIRPORT Approximately 30km to the north-west of Sandton, Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za.

Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles.

AIRPORT PARKING AND SHUTTLE BUSES Pre-booked shuttle buses from both airports to Joburg destinations start at around R400 per person. Try EZ Shuttle (tel. 0861 397 488, +27 12 348 8040, www.ezshuttle.co.za) or Rhino Shuttles (tel. +27 11 793 2282, www.rhinoshuttles.co.za). For discount airport valet parking there is Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za).

LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines. SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa.com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www.britishairways.com.

Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com.

Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 0861 585 852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget)QTel. 0861 001 234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango.com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww.travelstart.co.za.

GETTING AROUND DRIVING IN JOBURG To get around easily you need a car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and read our Safety Tips in Joburg Basics. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass other traffic on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat it as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is rampant, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system is in place (see www.nra.co.za for costs).

CAR RENTAL Reservations for rental companies Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire can be made through Africarhire.

QTel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire.com. Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Rent-A-Wreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za.

Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Delvers, City Centre

Mark Straw

BUSES The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and secure bus stops. Routes run from City Centre to destinations in Soweto. New routes are under construction linking City Centre to Alexandra via Louis Botha Avenue, and Alexandra to Sandton via Katherine Street. Smartcards can be bought and loaded at the bus stop outside Park Station or at the Carlton Centre, and you need to create a PIN when you first activate it. Fares are calculated by distance and start at around R5. Single-journey tickets are available at bus stops. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and run from around 06:00–18:30, less frequently at weekends. The electronic timetables at bus stops are rarely accurate.Qwww.reavaya.org.za.

Useful routes The circular City Centre C-3 route passes all the main tourist sights as well as Park Station Gautrain. The C-5 and T-3 leave from Park Station and makes a stop at Milpark (close to 44 Stanley Avenue and a 15-minute walk from the centre of Melville). See Neighbourhoods.

Metrobus is the creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system, ferrying commuters from the suburbs to City Centre and back. Most bus routes terminate at Gandhi Square in City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St). The majority of buses depart between 06:00 and 09:30. Few buses run during the day and you will be lucky to find one after 18:00 or at the weekend. To get route information, visit the information office inside Gandhi Mall on Gandhi Square. Fares start at R10 and are paid to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your bus stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked.

Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow.

To get the latest updates on all you need to know about what’s happening in Joburg, go to www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. Follow us on johannesburginyourpocket, or on Twitter @JohannesburgIYP. February – April 2015

17

Arriving & Getting Around panies are generally reliable and run on meters: Orange CabsQTel. 0861 700 222, www.orangecab.co.za. Quick CabQTel. 0861 665 566, www.myquickcab.co.za. Zebra CabsQTel. 0861 105 105, www.zebracabs.co.za. The international taxi booking app, Uber, operates in Joburg. Download the app and use our special discount code on page 3 to book your cab.

Minibus taxi art from the Taxi Poetry Project 2014

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal. The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using them at night or alone. Hand the fare to the driver – R5 to R10 for short journeys. Drivers prefer coins or small notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually the easiest way.

Although using them can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers minibus taxis offer great insight into everyday South African life.

TAXIS Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out. Except for outside hotels, there are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. The following taxis com-

TAXI HAND SIGNALS This ingenious system was developed during the apartheid era by black commuters who had to travel long distances to and from work (and still do). The easiest way to test a minibus taxi is to ride one to City Centre, and the best way to understand the system is to ask other commuters.

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank

Images by Joburg artist Susan Woolf from her books and exhibition, Taxi Hand Signs: Symbolic Landscapes of Public Culture

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TUK-TUKS The latest addition to Joburg’s transport network is the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks based at Sandton Central and in Melville. While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone, they do make travelling between suburbs easier. Also, with fares starting at R25 you can’t argue with the price. Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R35. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.QTel.+27 82 695 0211, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius. It can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 0861 743 742, www. sheshatuks.co.za.

CYCLING AND WALKING Cycling The Johannesburg Urban Cyclists Association publishes a bicycle map available at www.juca.org.za. In late 2014 dedicated lanes appeared in Braamfontein and Auckland Park linking student residences and university buildings and also in certain areas of Soweto. More cycle lanes are due to appear in Sandton and Rosebank in the next two years. For cycling tours of the city, see Sightseeing: Tours or contact cycology.biz. For more, see our online feature. Walking in the northern suburbs is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville and Parkhurst, are great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only, and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, and do not cross the bridges over the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. Watch out for oblivious drivers and uncovered manholes.

LONG DISTANCE BUSES Most destinations in South Africa can be reached by bus directly from Joburg. Citybug have some of the most reliable and best serviced buses, destinations include Durban and Nelspruit (tel. 0861 33 44 33, www.citybug.co.za). The backpacker-oriented BazBus works on a hop-on, hopoff basis and has special safari and adventure packages to Botswana and Zimbabwe (0861 229 287, www.bazbus. com). Backpackers should also look out for copies of the free Coast To Coast, the ultimate backpacking guide to the country (coasttocoast.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Welcome to Johannesburg’s best guest houses www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za The Palazzo Montecasino

LUXURY HOTELS Joburg’s newest hotel is the Four Seasons The Westcliff (see page 20 for more). Opened in December it looks set to become the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs with its drop-dead gorgeous views of this most treed city (67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www. fourseasons.com/johannesburg. 117 rooms).

There’s no shortage of great luxury hotel options in Joburg and each offers something distinctive. The Hyatt Regency’s cigar bar and lounge is popular for high-powered meetings. The business who’s who favour the hotel’s elegance and location steps away from the buzzing shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www. johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms). The Radisson Blu Sandton offers state-of-the-art connectivity and a superb health club (cnr Rivonia Rd and Daisy St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 245 8000, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-johannesburg. 290 rooms), while it’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www. intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms).

You can’t get any closer to the mega-malls than Sandton’s grande dame Sandton Sun (cnr 5th and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/ deluxe/sandton-sun. 334 rooms). The flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch with its Davidoff Cool Water-scented lobby, table set for lunch in the swimming pool and heaps of M&Ms candy is a treat (1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.african pride hotels.com. 118 rooms), and the intimate and chic 54 on Bath with its boutique-hotel feel and one-of-a-kind Champagne Bar offer five-star-plus luxury (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www. tsogosunhotels.com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).

The Palazzo Montecasino is an opulent celebrity hangout that has graced the list of World Luxury Hotel award winners. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions such as a comedy club, cinema and theatre, The Palazzo also has exquisite gardens for escaping it all plus a Clefs d’Or concierge (see page 20) to ensure a most memorable trip (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/ The-Palazzo. 246 rooms). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

A comprehensive website that offers a range of affordable accommodation options.

All our establishments are centrally located and within easy travelling distance of the Rosebank Gautrain station, Hyde Park, Sandton, the Johannesburg city centre and major motorways.

Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, overnighting or here for a longer stay, we invite you to experience our friendly hospitality and service.

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Where to stay FOUR SEASONS

Probably the most anticipated hotel opening since the Carlton Hotel in 1972, the Four Seasons has brought its polish and consummate luxury to the suburbs with the Four Seasons The Westcliff. The once salmon-pink fortress is now a welcoming suburban Shangri-la, with Joburg’s regenerated city neighbourhoods on its doorstep. The former owner’s colonial nostalgia has been ditched for contemporary South African art, ballroom carpeting that resembles a jacaranda-strewn city, and an impressive sheer-glass elevator to what was formerly The Polo Lounge. That favoured spot is now The View, a fine-dining restaurant; next door is Flames, a contemporary grill house with a wraparound patio from which to admire one of the best views of Joburg (see Where to Eat). The hotel’s guest rooms feature contemporary décor inspired by modern Africa. Don’t be startled by the occasional lion’s roar from the nearby zoo (see page 19).

GOLDEN CONCIERGES Deon Prinsloo, head concierge at The Palazzo Montecasino and formerly of Dubai’s One&Only Royal Mirage, has seen it all – almost. But with discretion being a badge of honour you won’t get any details out of him about the many local and international celebrity guests he has encountered. A Clefs d’Or concierge, he is also the founding member of South Africa’s Concierge Forum, an association of concierges and guest relations managers who aim to assist guests of Joburg hotels with great service and up-to-date information.

For luxury travellers, a hotel concierge is as vital as a comfortable bed to ensure a successful trip. South Africa has eight Clefs d’Or concierges, five of whom are based at Joburg hotels. Les Clefs d’Or is an international association founded in 1929 in Paris. The Golden Keys that it has bestowed on its members in 39 countries honour concierges who have made a life out of service to guests. As long as your request is ‘morally, legally and humanly’ possible, Clefs d’Or concierges will do their utmost to ensure it is fulfilled. For more information on South Africa’s concierge forum, contact Deon.Prinsloo@tsogosun.com.

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BOUTIQUE HOTELS Ten Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of Joburg’s older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide a perfect refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel.+27 11 853 2400 www.houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms).

Also in Houghton The Residence caters to Champagne tastes. Choose between a Rolls Royce or Mercedes-Benz Viano as your hotel shuttle and an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath (in addition to the indoor one) to wash away your cares while appreciating Joburg’s bird life (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, www.theresidence.co.za. 12 suites).

International dignitaries rub shoulders with the Champagne-and-polo set in a lush garden retreat at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns.co.za. 40 suites.) At 10 Bompas the spacious suites are designed to be a home away from home (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.10bompas.com. 10 suites), while The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery (61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech. co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1907, and is a bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS The slick business and social hotspot, the Maslow Hotel (see Where To Eat) buzzes with activity attracting the fun crowd for sundowners and poolside Sunday jazz (146 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.suninternational.com). For a business hotel with a resort feel the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine. (20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). The Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel’s businesslike exterior conceals its modern, stylish interiors and busy social life (cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www.radissonblu.com/hotelsandton-johannesburg. 216 rooms). The fashion pack hang out in the Austin Powers-style lobby before drinks at Crowne Plaza The Rosebank (cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www.therosebank.co.za. 318 rooms). At Protea Fire &

4-star luxury guest house.

Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor.

Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng

Ice! in Melrose Arch the milkshake bar attracts young socialites and the shopping crowd (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/melrose. 197 rooms). At the luxurious Venetian-themed Southern Sun Montecasino have your autograph book ready if you are a sporting fan as local heroes regularly traverse the lobby (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, +27 11 367 4367, www.tsogosunhotels.com. 94 rooms). Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 one-bedroom suites is a conference destination in the city with a 360-degree skyline view from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites).

Thaba Ya Batswana Eco Hotel set in an exquisite nature reserve is an ideal getaway for mixing business with the great outdoors (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www. thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms).

ON A (STYLISH) BUDGET The vibrant Easy Hotel is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities for its lively atmosphere and brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures (C-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.easyhotel.com. 60 rooms). The Bannister Hotel is a hipster delight in Braamfontein (C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. 31 rooms).

The streets of Maboneng beckon from Twelve Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel (www.urbanhiphotels.com) or take a look at the Garden Court Milpark (www.tsogosunhotels.com) with its cool Joburg-inspired interiors and within walking distance from the boutique shopping hub of 44 Stanley in Milpark, Joburg’s universities and a short trip from the city and Melville’s nightlife.

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Where to stay FIVE JOBURG STOPS Liz Delmont of Liz at Lancaster Guesthouse is an art historian turned entrepreneur. She opened her establishment in 1995. ‘Jozi is my city. I have lived here all my life and despite its frenetic madness, I love the creative energy, connectedness and climate.’ These are some of her favourite places.

Piece is a great craft/décor/gift store that specialises in exquisite handmade items fusing traditional craft and contemporary design. It has an outlet in Rosebank (Shop 5, The Firs, Cradock Ave) and recently opened at The Sheds@1Fox, a new inner-city development located in old industrial warehouses.QThe Sheds@1Fox, 1 Main St, Ferrairasdorp, tel. +27 11 447 5541, www.1Fox.co.za. Open Thu–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00.

If you want a special gift, visit Lali in Parkview for stylish individually designed and reasonably priced silver jewellery.QShop 10b, Parkview Centre, 54 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 8358, www. lalisilver.co.za. Open Mon 10:00–17:00, Tue–Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Comprising 104 hectares of public parkland on either side of the Braamfontein Spruit (small stream), with lovely dams and bird hides and a wellfrequented children’s playground area, Delta Park is a another favourite of mine. It is well-used by a mix of dog-walkers, cyclists, joggers, bird-watchers and even horse riders, and on Sunday afternoons when small groups of African independent church members meet near the spruit for open-air ceremonies, their singing and dancing to the beat of drums can be heard across the park.QCraighall Road, Victory Park, tel. + 27 11 888 4831. www.jhbcityparks.co.za.

Paputzi’s is an unpretentious little eatery at the back of a 1940s converted house. Its rural feel, with fruit trees providing dappled shade and chickens clucking away in the background, is a far cry from the glitz and glamour of enclosed shopping malls.

Enjoy the generous portions of wholesome fare.Q69 Fourth Ave, Linden, +27 11 782 9393. Open Mon– Fri 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. Closed Sun. High on the Parktown ridge is an early 20th-century Randlords home, Brenthurst, home of the Oppenheimer family since 1922. They open the 45-acre gardens for tours by special arrangement. It’s fascinating to see biodynamic gardening in action, but for me the highlight is Leigh Voight’s paintings of Nguni cattle in the old library.Q1 Federation Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 646 4122, www.brenthurstgardens. co.za. Open weekdays between October and April by appointment only.

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Lucky Bean Guesthouse, Melville

GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers affordable accommodation options in the Rosebank area. See their booking website www.johannesburg-guesthouses. co.za. Owner Liz Delmont of Liz at Lancaster is a Joburg maven with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has also thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

In Melville traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas ticks ’authentic South African‘ boxes (66 Sixth Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za. 14 rooms). Nearby is the tasteful Lucky Bean Guesthouse, sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip, in a quiet tree-lined street (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www.luckybeanguesthouse. co.za. 9 rooms). Seek out the contemporary cool Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi.co.za. 6 rooms).

BACKPACKER HOSTELS If it’s happening in Maboneng – which it always is – Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado who also runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing: City Tours). Curiocity hosts live-music events, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers an exchange programme for visiting artists – accommodation for art (302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 592 0515, www. curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).

If you are planning to overnight in Soweto, the celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is also a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beach-style bar. You can almost smell the rum and coconut oil. Owner Lebo Pooe’s bicycle tours of Soweto are a must-do (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com.

22 beds). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat AFRICAN FOOD Anna Trapido is the editor of Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015.

She is also the author of Hunger For Freedom, the story of food in the life of Nelson Mandela, and To the Banqueting House: African Cuisine, An Epic Journey.

BEST SOWETO COCKTAILS The Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square, Kliptown, is built on the site where the ANC and its political affiliates gathered for the Congress of the People to draw up the Freedom Charter in 1955. The hotel’s signature cocktail is the Kliptini – a delicious mélange of township-style ginger beer and vodka.QWalter Sisulu Sq, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za.

BEST WEST AFRICAN CORDIALS House of Baobab restaurant at Maboneng Precinct serve the refreshing non-alcoholic Bissap Rouge hibiscus infusion – sold on the streets in many West African cities but seldom seen in South Africa.QCnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng Precinct, tel. +27 82 951 9859, www.mabonengprecinct.com/entertainment/restaurants/.

BEST ETHIOPIAN CHEF Chef Amsale Debela is a political refugee who literally walked from Ethiopia to South Africa. Berbere spice-laden doro wat chicken stews with injera-fermented pancakes are her specialty.QAbysinia, cnr Langerman Dr and Queens Rd, Kensington, tel. +27 72 918 8824.

MAGNIFICENT MOZAMBICAN A Palhota, a Portuguese–Mozambican restaurant, makes the best piri-piri chicken in town. Phone ahead to pre-order magnificent Mozambican matapa (cassava leaves, peanuts and crab cooked in coconut milk).Q9 Augusta Rd, Regents Park, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 0813.

SOMALI COFFEE AND CAKE Kismayo is inside the Amal Centre in Mayfair which is known as Little Mogadishu because of the large number of Somali immigrants who live and work there. Coffee is indigenous to East Africa which (in combination with an Italian colonial past) probably explains why Kismayo makes superb espresso paired with a cardamom-rich sponge cake that the Somalis call ‘doolshe’ – derived from the Italian word ‘dolce’.QAmal Centre, cnr Somerset and Albertina Sisulu Rds, Mayfair.

CONGOLESE MARKET The Congolese Market on Rockey Street, Yeoville is a delicious jumble of plantains, African landrace chillies and chikwanga cassava breads. Look out for the spice shops – those spices are meant for love not cooking. If you ask the stall holders how to cook with them they laugh and say it’s ‘a man thing’. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Yeoville Market

Mark Lewis

MOROCCAN ARGAN OIL Argan nut oil is produced in Morocco’s Souss Valley. Women collect argan pits (which have passed undigested through the belly of a goat) and press them into delicious argan oil which is seldom seen in South Africa but is available at La Marina, Modderfontein. It has a lovely nutty taste when dipped in bread, drizzled on couscous or used as a salad dressing. Moroccans adore amlou (a blend of roasted almonds, argan oil and honey).QLa Marina, 7 Platinum Dr, Longmeadow North Business Park, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 3277, www.lamarinafoods.co.za.

XOLISWA NDOYIYA Xoliswa Ndoyiya was late President Nelson Mandela’s personal chef for 21 years. Her new catering company Eat, Live, Love Catering makes Madiba’s favourites, such as umleqwa, a Xhosa-style chicken stew, and umsila wenkomo, oxtail with dombolo dumplings.QTel. +27 82 634 6397.

MALVA PUDDING South Africa’s favourite apricot jam-laden, syrup-drenched comfort food. The pudding is so named because it has the same springy texture as marshmallows (‘malvalekkers’ in Afrikaans). The best malva pudding in Johannesburg is to be found at Signature in Sandton.QShop U13, Morningside Shopping Centre, cnr Rivonia and Outspan Rds, Morningside, tel. +27 11 884 8888, www.signaturerestaurant.co.za.

DON’T EAT THE HAND CREAM...

La Camerounaise is a West African backyard fish grill hotspot. The fish is smoked before it is grilled. Everyone eats with their hands. Halfway through the meal the chef will stop grilling and pass around an unlabelled squeezy bottle. Do not mistake this for mayonnaise and put it on your plate. It is hyacinth-smelling hand lotion which is intended to mask the fishy odour. It doesn’t work. You and everything you touch will smell of smoked fish for weeks to come: car steering wheels, purses, everything.Q27 Rockey St, Yeoville, tel. +27 73 342 3937.

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Where to eat STEAKHOUSES SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL Fashionable downtown steakhouse serving a barbeque menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slowsmoked ribs and a pulled-pork sandwich that the critics are applauding.Q73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395. Open Mon–Wed 11:30–21:30, Thu–Sat 11:30– 22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R30. LEBSW THE GRILLHOUSE This New York-style grillhouse is an institution. Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a contstant buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations essential.

Ask about their hotel shuttle service.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L

SHISA NYAMA ‘Shisa nyama’ is a Zulu word – literally meaning ‘burned meat’ – used to describe a popular ‘buy-and-braai’ style of venue found across South Africa. At a shisa nyama, you choose your own meat from the butchery and then have it barbecued to your exact specifications. Many township shisa nyama, such as Soweto’s legendary Chaf Pozi, create a weekend party atmosphere with DJs and bars, while others such as Maboneng’s Sharp Braai or Vuyo’s in Braamfontein cater to the urban workforce, looking for quick and easy street-side food on their lunch break.

CHAF POZIQOrlando Towers, cnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando East, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www. chafpozi.co.za. Open Wed–Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00– 24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Corkage R30. RR. EUBSLW SHARP BRAAIQG-4, 20 Kruger St, cnr Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open 09:30– 22:00. Open 10:00–22:00. R. NBS VUYO’SQC-2, Cnr Stiemens and Bertha Sts (Braamfontein Centre), Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1920, www. vuyos.co.za. Open 08:00–19:00, Thu–Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 08:00–17:00. R. BS

THE LOCAL GRILL A shrine to red meat. Select your cut from the meat locker, or for a behind-the-scenes experience book a tour of the kitchen.QCnr 7th and 3rd Aves, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, www.localgrill.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30, 18:00–22:00. Only open for lunch on Sun. RRR. LB TURN N TENDER Popular for consistently tasty basted steaks and excellent ribs. Service is swift and friendly and the atmosphere easygoing.QParktown Quarter, 3rd Ave, Parktown North (and other branches), tel. +27 11 788 7933, www. turnntender.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. Kitchen may close by 21:00 on Sun. Corkage R40. RRR. ULBS BULLRUN An oasis in the heart of the business district. The romantic tree-covered terrace is perfect for enjoying wine from the great selection, after polishing off a luscious steak.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, Tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun. co.za. Open12:00-22:30, Sat 17:00-22:30. Corkage R50.

RRR. LBSW

BURGER BARS DUKES BURGERS They bake their own buns, pound their own patties and emphasise the use of fresh produce and home-made relishes.

The Wednesday night ‘rock’ menu was devised as a collab with Joburg’s hottest musical talent.Q14 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 486 0824, www.dukesburgers.co.za.

Open 11:30–21:00, Wed,Thu 11:30–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30– 22:30, Sun 11:30-21:00. Book ahead. Corkage R60. RR. B ROCOMAMAS Tasty beef burgers with exceptional toppings, and great ribs and chicken wings. A sit-down fast-food joint with a lively atmosphere and good service.QShop 19, Appletons Village, cnr Hill St and Malibongwe Dr, Randburg, tel. +27 11 791 5928, rocomamas.com. Open Sun–Wed 09:00– 22:00, Thu, Sat until 23:00, Fri until 24:00. R. LBS

PRICE KEY

Chaf Pozi

24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Based on average main course. No prices for cafés given. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat WOLFPACK The weekend crowds pack this hip little joint on Parkhurst’s main strip for manly beef burgers and craft beer with delicious sides like tempura zucchini sticks and sweet potato chips. The service is friendly but can get a little slow as the noise level rises.Q21 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 7705. Open 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Closed Mon. Reservations are needed for lunch and on Tue–Thu for dinner. On Fri, Sat dinner is first come, first served.

Corkage R50. RR. BSW BEEFCAKES Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular topless men, this camp burger bar is a popular gay hangout with saucy drag shows every night. The menu quips, ‘Best Buns in town and the Burgers aren’t bad either’, which sums it up neatly.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 114 475 266, www. beefcakes.co.za. Reservations essential. Open 12:00 until late. Closed Mon. RR. UEL

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE ONE NINE ONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and photographs of jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant, led by chef Andrew Atkinson (former MasterChef South Africa host), offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. Atkinson is a master at infusing dishes with flavour. The three-course menu is seasonal with local ingredients fused with seasoning influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to the Lobby Lounge or head to the courtyard for a cigar or a nightcap.Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www.johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:30–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch, dinner 12:30–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. LU LACUNA With the lighting dimmed romantically for dinner, this sophisticated bistro with its slick interiors offers an intimate setting surprising for the restaurant’s size. Choose a table by the window to enjoy a view of the poolside and garden – the Sunday gourmet braai is extremely popular. Chef Dallas Orr’s menu, served from an open kitchen, is all contemporary flavours and includes some West African favourites like pepper soup and Jollof rice. On the dinner menu each dish is optionally paired with wine. Superb service ensures you’ll linger.QCnr Grayston and Rivonia Rds, Sandton +27 10 226 4600 www.suninternational.com/maslow/ restaurants/Pages/default.aspx. Open 06:30–11:00, 12:00–22:30. Sun 12:00–17:00. RRR. LU THE LEOPARD Andrea Burgener is known as the enfant terrible of Joburg cuisine. A veteran and award-winning restaurateur, even at her young age, Burgener has a quirky take on traditional ingredients and came to early prominence for putting items like Coco Pops and milk on the menu at her first restaurant, Superbonbon. The Leopard is a restaurant for facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

grownups with a small menu of innovative dishes from fresh and seasonal ingredients. Burgener also has her own cookbook, Lampedusa Pie and a food column in The Times daily newspaper.Q63A 4th Ave (cnr 5th St), Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open Mon–Thu 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. Corkage R50–70 (pre-2006 vintage R25). Booking essential. RRR. B FLAMES Flames is the Four Seasons The Westcliff’s brand-new urban casual dining spot (see Where To Stay). The menu is executive chef Dirk Gieselmann’s take on the South African braai.

Lunch emphasises bistro fare, with the grill taking centre stage. For starters try the goat’s cheese salad with walnuts or the piquant tomato and watermelon gazpacho.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www.flamesrestaurant.co.za. Open 6:30–22:00. RRR. LB

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi February – April 2015

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Where to eat GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Best for: contemporary Asian. Dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen are just a few of the delightful and delicate tasting dishes cooked up by chef Nick Scott. A good spot for vegetarians and fish-eaters. If you catch Scott on a quiet day (increasingly rare) he will improvise the menu.

The setting is a pared-down Melville rooftop.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910, Great Eastern Food Bar. Open Tue–Fri, 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00– 23:00, Sun 13:00–20:00. Closed Mon. RR. LB

Gwefey, Sandton

ASIAN Wherever you go in the world, the spice and variety of Asian cuisine is always popular. Whether you’re a fan of the hot and fiery flavours of Szechuan cooking, a dim sum addict, a lover of all things Thai or the type who just can’t resist sushi at least once a week, you can find your perfect Asian fix in Joburg. Here’s a rundown of some of the best.

DERRICK AVENUE, CYRILDENE Best for: great value. There are dozens of great-value places to choose from in Joburg’s Chinatown, but among the best are Fisherman’s Plate specialising in seafood (18 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 622 0480. Open 12:00–14:30, 17:30– 21:00. Closed Mon), and Chinese Northern Foods which has a long menu of Chinese classics – highlights include the garlic eggplant and crispy chilli beef (20 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 72 030 9414. Open 12:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:30).

There’s not much English spoken around these parts and the interiors may be a bit rough around the edges, but for an exotic and authentic experience, this neighbourhood is the best. R. GOOD LUCK CLUB Best for: hip atmosphere. The sister establishment of the popular Wolves Café, this noisy little cafe-style joint is loved by the area’s many craft beer-drinking young trendsetters.

The menu is a hipster take on Asian cuisine and is complemented by a sweets selection from the café next door.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3816, thegoodluckclub. co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. RR. BW GWEFEY Best for: Chinese tea house. A bold and bright spot with a great selection of Chinese teas and an extensive menu of authentic dishes from China, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand – spicy food and dim sum are specialities.

QSandton City (above Checkers), cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 7097, www. gwefey.co.za. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–23:00, Sun 08:00–20:00. RR. LU 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

RED CHAMBER Best for: Peking duck. In a dimly-lit and warm interior, Emma Chen serves up a range of unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes striving for a harmony of taste, texture, colour and aroma. The authentic Peking duck is famous and don’t miss the spicy cucumber salad with chilli and garlic.QHyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www. redchamber.co.za. RR. LUS REGAL PALACE Best for: traditional dim sum. Well known among the local Chinese community, this is a super authentic Cantonese dim sum restaurant and the trolley selection is huge.

The pidan zhou (Chinese egg rice pudding) is a speciality. Gets very busy so arrive early.Q110 Linksfield Rd, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 443 3353. Open 11:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:00. R. THE BLACKANESE SUSHI AND WINE BAR Best for: contemporary sushi. Flavours from African and Japanese cuisine fuse in delicious ways at this hip sushi spot. Bring a group and share one of the enormous sushi platters or excellent grilled fish. Great service and charming staff.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455, www.theblackanese.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Corkage R30. R. L WANG THAI Best for: upmarket Thai cuisine. This sophisticated space with a roomy interior and outdoor seating serves up beautifully presented flavourful dishes. It is a muchawarded restaurant, glowingly endorsed by the former Thai ambassador to South Africa who declared it the most authentic Thai restaurant outside of Thailand.QShop 120, 1st Floor, Nelson Mandela Square, cnr West and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 8484, www.wangthai. co.za. Open 12:00–21:45, Fri, Sat 12:00–22:15, Sun and public holidays 12:00–21:00. RRR. LU YAMATO Best for: traditional Japanese. The much-awarded Yamato serves elegant and traditional Japanese food with polite service. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt. Solemn atmosphere but what a combination of flavours!Q198 Oxford Rd (Illovo Muse), Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www. yamato.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR-RRR. LB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat INDIAN While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, this neighbourhood (and nearby Mayfair) is its distinct pulse.

Rich in history, it’s a collision of bold colour, spicy streets and enticing flavours. Most restaurants are concentrated along Central Rd, between Albertina Sisulu Rd and Bree St (particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market). Some of our favourites include North Indian Coffee House (tel. +27 11 492 2089), Dosa Hut (tel. +27 11 492 1456) and Al Makka (tel. +27 11 838 2545). In the neighbouring streets the old school Bismillah’s is where you will want to get your Friday biryani (78 Mint Rd, +27 11 838 6429) and the Golden Peacock in Fordsburg’s shopping mecca, Oriental Plaza (38–60 Bree St, www.orientalplaza.co.za), is your samoosa stop. Many places close for Friday prayers between 12:30 and 14:00 and most restaurants do not serve alcohol.

CURRY AND ALL Takeaway style spot specialising in delicious DurbanIndian curries and bunny chows. Low prices and huge portions. Limited seating available outside or at the indoor cafe area. Queues are long so arrive before midday.QBehind Shell Garage, Cnr Rivonia Rd and South Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 84 603 2466. Open 10:00–20:00. Closed Sun. R. Note payment is by card only. B MUMBAI MASALA Head here for a taste of Mumbai street food. Excellent pavement favourites such as chaat, pani puri, kaathi rolls and samoosas, served fast-food style inside (ironically enough) a shopping mall.QKillarney Mall, 60 Riviera Rd, Killarney, tel. +27 11 486 1492. Open 11:00–21:00. R. THAVA Despite its size, this large, smartly decorated restaurant really fills up. At Thava the spice is just right. The hot and crispy naan breads fresh from the kiln are ideal for mopping up the perfect traditional curries made with a south Indian influence.Q44 The Avenue (cnr Grove Rd), Norwood, tel. +27 11 728 2826, thava.co.za. Open 10:00– 22:00 (closed 15:30–17:30). RR.

MIDDLE EASTERN BURHAN’S BUTCHERY For a budget option there’s this halaal butchery started by two burly Turkish brothers. Follow the delicious smell to where the kebabs are grilled on the pavement. Enjoy chicken, spiced lamb, kofta, Turkish flatbreads and other meaty treats.Q79 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 1123. Open 09:00–18:30, Sun 09:00–16:00. R. EAT YOUR HEART OUT The décor of this intimate little eatery is inspired and constantly evolving while the tables along the pavement offer a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of topfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Eat Your Heart Out, Maboneng

pings or the excellent shawarma salad and order a freshly pressed juice to go with it.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www. eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R. BSW ISTANBUL Succulent kebabs with a dizzying array of meats to choose from, accompanied by generous sides of fresh salads and dips. Friendly service, excellent value and plenty of space in the covered courtyard. Their namesake city would be proud.Q52 Central Rd, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 056 5749.

Open 11:00–22:00. R. B SCHWARMA COMPANY Set over two storeys this fully licensed spot is always packed. Feast your eyes on towering displays of olives and other Middle Eastern staples to accompany your lamb, chicken or beef shawarma.Q71 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 1776, schwarmacompany.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. RR. Corkage fee R50. TUBS TEI AVON Superb Israeli bistro that makes a darn good shawarma and the best fried eggplant in town. Cosy interiors and free wifi also make this an attractive stop, along with the homemade halva and pistachio ice-cream.QShop 17, Victory Park Shopping Centre, cnr 2nd Ave and Rustenburg Rd, Victory Park, tel. +2711 782 6976, www.teiavon.co.za.

Open 10:30–21:00, Wed, Thu 10:30–21:30, Fri 10:30– 22:30, Sat 08:30–22:00, Sun 08:30–21:00. RR. LW TETA MARI For shakshouka breakfast (a dish of poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) there’s this stylish cafe with a sunny outdoor deck and a menu that mixes traditional Israeli and New York classics. Kosher dishes available at extra cost.Q5A Illovo Square, cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. RR. LB

For more restaurant choices, see our website www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. Leave a comment and tell us what we're missing February – April 2015

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Where to eat SANDTON RESTAURANTS Among the dizzying array of big brands and fast-food chains at Sandton’s premier malls, Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square, there are some gems worth seeking out. For big-budget fine dining and an elegant atmosphere try Bukhara, serving upmarket Indian cuisine (Shop 117, Nelson Mandela Square, tel. +27 11 883 5555) or the lavish baroque-styled Pigalle with its exceptional seafood and extensive wine list (Michaelangelo Towers, tel. +27 11 884 8899, pigallerestaurants.co.za/Sandton). For light lunches, good coffee and quality breakfasts, head into the Sandton City Mall to Deli One, great for fresh salads and Mediterraneaninspired mains (lower level, near Woolworths, tel. +27 11 784 1897, www.delione.com), or Walnut Grove for an enticing breakfast selection (until 11:00) and very generous portions (above the Food Court, tel. +27 11 783 6111, www.walnutgrove.co.za. Open until 23:00).

Near the malls there’s the 24 Central complex (cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Lane). Koi offers contemporary Asian cuisine (www.koirest.co.za), or drop by Panini Brothers for good coffee and sandwiches and an opportunity to rub shoulders with Sandton’s media who’s who (tel. +27 11 783 5438, www.paninibrothers.co.za.

Closed weekends). At the Maslow Hotel’s Lacuna Bistro, dine on contemporary cuisine in a chic setting (cnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www. suninternational.co.za). For meat, the Bullrun steakhouse (see Steakhouses) in the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is particularly noteworthy.

Finally, for a break from the glitz and shine of Africa’s richest square mile, Benmore’s 11th Street is just a 20-minute walk or a short tuk-tuk ride from Sandton City.

Here you can sample a world of tastes along a scruffy low-rise strip of independent restaurants. Take your pick from Chinese restaurants, a Thai café, sushi bars, Indian restaurants, a West African restaurant and an Indian/Pakistani halaal deli and café. Possibly Sandton’s finest hidden treasure is tucked away at the end of the strip. A laid-back fine-dining restaurant with a seasonal menu, Eatery JHB is always a winner (cnr 11th St and Victoria Ave, tel. +27 11 783 1570, www.eateryjhb.co.za. Open for lunch Mon–Fri, for dinner Mon–Sat. Closed Sun).

Nelson Mandela Square

28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ITALIAN DA GRAZIELLA On Sunday afternoons this place is packed with Italian families sitting at long tables piled high with mouthwatering dishes from the vast menu. Run by a Sicilian brother-andsister team, the service here is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of choices on the menu.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, www.dagraziella.co.za.

Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30.

IL GIARDINO D’EGLI ULIVI A casual but elegant courtyard bistro with generous and beautifully presented pizzas, pastas, salads and meat dishes. Live music on Fridays and Sundays. Service slows on the busiest days.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4978, www.ilgiardino. co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 11.30–17:00. Closed Mon. RRR. EB TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on pricey necessities like Tortellini’s signature melanzane, spinach malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach) and anchovy pâté.

There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and dessert will have you wishing you had left more space.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, www.tortellino.co.za.

Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00.

RRR. TB

PIZZA 86 PUBLIC A hip and cosy pizza joint with chequered tablecloths, vinyl banquettes and street views, serving crusty pizzas with ample toppings. A good choice for a night out in Braamfontein.QC-3, 87 Juta St, The Grove, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 157 1823. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. B ANDICCIO 24 This chain of pizza joints does takeaways and free deliveries but you can also stop by and eat your pizza at the store.

It may be fast food, but their pizzas are worth savouring.

Branches in Sandton, Greenside and Randburg.Q3 Corlett Drive, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, www.andiccio24. co.za. Open 24hrs. R–RR. TVBSW TONI’S Flavourful thin-crust pizzas from a wood-burning oven with some interesting toppings such as the Tricolore; topped with crème fraiche, smoked salmon, chives and caviar. A perfect family joint with friendly service, plenty of space and a covered patio.QCnr Lancaster and Clarence Aves, Craighall Park, tel. +27 78 700 5460, www. tonipizza.co.za. Open 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R–RR (prices depend on the kind of toppings requested).

TBW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

The Pudding Shop, Parktown North

Karen Swanepoel

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN BAPS SHAYONAS This vegetarian restaurant, deli and spice shop is the catering arm of the Hindu Swaminarayan Temple.

The masala dosas are famous and their thalis are delicious. Weekends are very busy but still the best time to go.Q74 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 837 2407, www. shayona.co.za. Closed Sun. R. SIMPLY DIVINE Expect a warm welcome from a pleasant mother-andson team (Bhaiya and his mum) at this exclusively vegetarian restaurant. Curries vary daily but the signature dish, butter paneer, features regularly and is truly sublime. Also try the Punjabi samoosas and paneer pies.

QBlairgowrie Plaza, 70 Conrad Dr, Randburg, tel. +27 76 394 5224. Open 10:30–19:30, Sat 10:30–16:30.

Closed Sun. R. THE PUDDING SHOP Mostly vegan restaurant (with some vegetarian and fish dishes) located in a rustic setting behind La Cucina di Ciro. The menu is small but inventive, with a range of tastes to be savoured – try the Tuscan tasting plate with its baby marrow rosti and mushroom and walnut pâté.

Desserts are as pudding should be: excellent.Q43, 7th Avenue, Parktown North, tel. +27 61 444 3493. Open 08:30–15:00. Closed Mon. RR. T6ILBSW CHEESE GOURMET Friendly and highly knowledgeable service and an excellent selection of food products from across the country, including Joburg neighbourhoods, are the hallmarks of this café. The Cheese Gourmet is one of the few places in Joburg that can actually lay claim to stocking ‘artisanal products’, including more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats produced with care. The store owners, Jo and Brian Dick, are champions of slow food.

The store even supplies Banting/paleo breads baked fresh daily. The café menu has plenty of tasty options including frittata, paninis and quiches.Q77 7th St, Linden tel. +27 11 888 5384, Open Mon–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. R. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FAMILY FUN Moyo Zoo Lake is an institution. With indoor and outdoor seating on the lavishly decorated deck overlooking Zoo Lake, this place is perfect for admiring a Joburg sunset. The breakfast buffet is vast with many excellent choices, and the new owners have gone to great effort to retain its signature features – quirky sculptures, a family-friendly atmosphere, entertainment for kids, face-painting and fun African rituals – while improving on the menu and service. Some of the African-inspired dishes include fried mopane worms, Moroccan tagines and a crocodile-tail pie. There are lots of great touches like blankets for chilly days, delicious freshly baked crunchies delivered with your coffee, an optional extra neck and back massage at your table from Tshidullo Day Spa, and a gift shop stocked with handmade items. And after breakfast and lunch this is the perfect place to stroll, feed the ducks and enjoy one of the city’s best green spaces. The deck lights up at night with live music and a fine-dining menu.Q1 Prince of Wales Dr, Parkview. tel. +27 11 646 0058. www.moyo.com.

Open 08:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–23:00. RR. February – April 2015

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Where to eat BAKERIES FOURNOS The chocolate croissants and the breakfast menu are star attractions at this busy café and deli. Branches in Rosebank and BluBird Centre.QDunkeld West Shopping Centre, 224 Jan Smuts Ave, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, www. fournos.co.za. Open 06:00–18:00, Sat 07:00–16:00, Sun 07:00–14:00. LBS

Double Shot, Braamfontein

COFFEE If you love coffee, you’re in the right city. For African fairtrade beans and blends, there’s Bean There (44 Stanley, cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www. beanthere.co.za. Open 07:00-16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. Closed public holidays) and Doubleshot (C-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, Braamfontein, tel. + 27 11 100 5241, www.doubleshot.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Closed Mon).

Also in Braamfontein, Father Coffee is a hipster temple where bearded people worship the bean (C-3, 73 Juta St, +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30–17:30. Closed Sun). You’ll get a biscuit in the shape of a dachshund and a water bowl for your pooch at 4th Avenue Coffee Roasters and Café in Parkhurst (cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, tel. +27 82 378 2109, www.4thavenuecoffee. co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Mon 07:00–17:30).

WORKSPACES Free and speedy wi-fi is as much a requirement for most people as good coffee, tasty snacks and attentive service. For a great day at the ‘office’, these are your best choices.

WARM & GLAD 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. Open Mon– Wed 07:30–16:30, Thu–Fri 07:30–20:00, Sat 08:30–15:00.

Closed Sun. Service ends 30 minutes before closing.

BEAN REPUBLIC 81 Corlett Dr, Melrose, tel. +27 11 440 4342, www.beanrepublic.co.za. Open 06:00 until late.

Sat, Sun 07:00 until late.

WOLVES 4 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 2360, www. wolves.co.za. Open 07:30–19:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 until last guest, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00.

GURU 9 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5044. Open 06:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:30–17:00.

MOTHERLAND COFFEE Dunkeld, Rosebank and Braamfontein. See website for details. www.motherlandcoffee. com. Open 06:00–18:00, Sat, Sun 06:00–15:30.

30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PATISSERIE DE PARIS Formerly a film-maker, Paul Zwick spent five years in France learning how to make the perfect French breads and pastries and all that hard work certainly paid off – his baguettes have been voted best in the land. A great relaxed breakfast spot and bakery.Q8 Mackay Avenue, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 0913, www. patisseriedeparis.co.za. Open Tue–Fri 08:00–17:30, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:00. Closed Mon. TUBSW VOVO TELO The trademark light and airy interiors at Vovo Telo are always warmed by the ever-present bakers pounding out delicious artisanal breads and baked goods which are a staple throughout the excellent cafe menu. Also at 4th Ave in Parkhurst and The Factory on Grant Ave in Norwood.

Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4139, www. vovotelo.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sun 07:30–15:00. R. Corkage fee R50. TUBS

TEA AND CAKE MASLOW HOTEL Treat yourself to the Maslow Hotel’s Serenitea experience with a delightful selection of pastries, petit fours and savoury items. Top up with some bubbles – sparkling wine or the finest Moët & Chandon Rosé and the afternoon will leave ever more pleasant memories.QCnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 20 226 4600, www. suninternational.com/maslow. Sat, Sun 14:30–17:30.

From R225 to R390 per person.

LIÈGE CAFÉ The newest Belgian bakery in town brings with it an excellent tarte tatin, waffles dolloped with créme Chantilly and seasonal berries, and macaroons with colours to rival the rainbow. Just add tea.QShop 30-32, Atholl Square Shopping Centre, Cnr Katherine St and Wierda Rd East, Sandown. +tel. 27 11 036 2924, liegecafe.co.za. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–17:30.

CONTESSA TEA CONNOISSEUR & BISTRO Head here for the perfect cup of tea – more than 70 variations to choose from, ranging from Masala Chai to the fruity Falling In Love Again, white teas to delicate herbal infusions. Pair it with a slice of moist chocolate cake baked on the premises daily.Q2 11th Ave, Rivonia, +27 11 234 6641, www.contessateashop.co.za 07:30–16:30, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. S johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Salvation Café, Milpark

CAFÉS CRAVE Professionally run with a personal touch, mainly catering to office workers who want a fresh and healthy lunch pronto.

Sit down and enjoy a freshly squeezed juice and hot meal such as the popular burrito.QIllovo Edge Office Park, cnr Fricker and Harries Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 243 5009. Open 06.30–17:00, Sat 07:00–15:00. Closed Sun. UBW CROFT & COFFEE Good service, Illy coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media workers and wannabes. It’s also a tasty lunch choice for salads, toasties and prego rolls.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. TULBW PARK CAFÉ Pretty and pink with an AstroTurf carpet, and perfectly placed on Gallery Row (see What’s On). A spectacular coffee machine takes counter pride of place, and the food is supertasty. For breakfast, the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, www. parkcafe.co.za. Open Mon–Fri 07:30–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. LW SALVATIONCAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of healthy, sweet and savoury, plus breakfast burritos. The tables here flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www.salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00.

Closed Mon. Breakfast until 12:00. RR. B THE WHIPPET COFFEE COMPANY Cool tones and a hipster aesthetic. Try the burger sliders and the top-notch coffee. On Fridays the after-work crowd swells the place for drinks and tapas.Q34 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 7310, www.thewhippet.co.za. Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–22:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. Kitchen closes at 15:00 weekdays, Sat at 14:00. Closed Sun. BW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Market Daze

Neighbourgoods Market, Braamfontein Justin Lee

Any day of the week is market day. You’ll find them in parks and parking lots, in regenerated city buildings and even on the roadside. The mall and gated community culture of the city has steadily been giving way to a new social phenomenon, one that is motored by Joburgers increasing need to spend time outdoors, and to mix freely. The constant hunger for something new and shiny is as old as this gold-mining town whose residents embrace novelty and change as easily as they flout traffic laws. Depending on your appetites you can find just about anything: from food trucks to traditional love potions and wood carvings, crafted goods and vintage items, kid’s spaces to must-have souvenirs, and of course, glorious food. To help you choose we have rounded up Joburg’s markets according to the experiences they offer.

FOOD TRUCKS Joburg has become a food-truck city. Selling food from street corners is not new and there are many places you can find traditional mamas offering staples like meat and pap, and braaied mielies. Joburg’s pioneer truck is the Roomys (Afrikaans for ‘ice-cream’) van, a VW kombi that winds its way through the suburbs on summer days, playing a tune that could be mistaken for a doorbell. Hipster markets gave food trucks a place to park, and the popularity of social media has ensured that they are easy to find.

FULL OF BEANS Brazilian-born Swiss hotel school graduate Marcio Mordoh geared up a three-wheeler Italian Vespa to ensure that Joburgers can have coffee, pastries and sandwiches on the go.QTel. +27 72 195 4548, @FullofBeans_SA, Full Of Beans.

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

AMEXICANO and 5 STAR STREET CHEF These two trucks belong to Martha’s MOJO, a husband-andwife team who, while living and working in exotic foreign locales, dreamed of bringing gourmet food to Joburg’s streets.

Amexicano serves tacos and tostas (Mexican toasties) wherever it calls home. We rate it the cutest-looking truck in town (see our cover). But if forced to choose you can’t beat the Thai chicken slider served up by 5 Star Street Chef, a delectable burger with peanut satay and Asian pickled red onion, among other delights. Jozi Food Market, the Neighbourgoods Market, Irene Country Market and The Sheds@1Fox are just some of the venues these two frequent.QAmexicano, tel. +27 11 646 0530, @Amexicano_Mojo, amexicanofoodtruck.

Q5 Star Street Chef, tel. +27 11 646 0530, @5star_chef, 5 Star Street Chef.

BALKAN BURGER BUS The enterprising Ivanovic family’s red, black and white Bedford bus serves up the Balkan Burger, an immense patty slathered with a secret mix of Serbian-style red-pepper relish. Also at Fourways Farmers Market, The Greensider, Locrate, Neighbourgoods and The Sheds@1Fox.QTel. +27 83 451 6000, @BalkanBurgerBar, BalkanBurgerBar. StrEAT CUISINE The maxim here is ‘local is lekker’ (good). You’ll find this truck in business hubs serving up a seasonal menu and organic coffee to brighten up the days of canteenweary execs, or hanging out at sports or music festivals. Co-owner Daniel Basch recently opened the Delta Café, a farm-style casual restaurant on the edge of lush Delta Park in Craighall.QTel. +27 84 509 8084, @streatcuisinesa, streatcuisinesa. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Market Daze TUTTO With its sunshine yellow 1976 VW Kombi Tutto has made paella a Joburg staple. Popular haunts include Market on Main, Neighbourgoods Market, Collective and music festivals.QTel. +27 73 492 3884, @tuttofoodco, tuttofoodco.

VUYO’S Miles Kubheka has the most original story. He watched an ad on TV about a big dreamer called Vuyo and bought the rights to the business name and to Vuyo’s big dreams.

Today Vuyo’s serves gourmet boerewors rolls.QTel. +27 11 403 1920, @vuyobeegdreamer, vuyos.

For more info on Joburg’s food trucks, contact the Mother Truckers.QTel. +27 83 461 9444, @JHBFoodTrucks, JHBFoodTrucks.

COOL KIDS AND COCKTAILS Some Joburg markets are veritable fashion shows, with the hip, young crowd all turned out in their style-blogworthy outfits, jostling for space in the queue for the craft beers and vintage handbags. At these trailblazing venues, the latest trends in food and fashion are set. With DJs, cocktails and clever T-shirts, these weekend markets are as much about shopping as they are about socialising. Come here to party and take the youthful pulse of the city.

LOCRATE Discover the cool side of Soweto, far removed from the usual township stereotypes, at this laid-back monthly market. A particularly great place for discovering edgy local fashion labels and lounging on the grass while listening to the bands.QCnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket. co.za. Open first Sun of the month, 10:00–17:00.

MARKET ON MAIN Find food and drinks downstairs and artist studios and vintage fashion upstairs. Across the courtyard the Canteen rooftop bar hosts a salsa party every market day and you simply cannot leave without visiting Maboneng’s microbrewery Smack! Republic. Fun and friendly.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 868 1335, www.marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00. Night market first Thu of the month 19:00–23:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS It’s always packed to the rafters, but still, there are few better places to score major hipster points in this town than on the buzzing roof terrace, frozen mojito in hand wearing your newly purchased vintage sunnies and nodding to the house beats. Join the party crowd at one of the many great bars across the street for the market after-party.QC3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www. neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Market Daze FOURWAYS FARMERS MARKET This rustic market could almost have you fooled that you’re out in the country. In reality you’re at a garden centre across the road from the faux-Tuscan casino complex, Montecasino. Arrive early to get the best hay bale seats from which to enjoy your delicious farm-fresh lunch.

QEarth Outdoor Living Nursery, cnr William Nicol Dr and Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 465 5276, www.ffmarket.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

Bryanston African craft market

Heather Mason

FAMILY-FRIENDLY MARKETS A morning spent exploring one of these markets can be a great way to keep the kids fed and entertained – just make sure they have enough pocket money to spend at their favourite craft stall or pancake stand. Here you can typically find crafts, toys and clothing, tasty snacks and plenty of space for youngsters to let off steam.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Huge market with an incredible selection of arts and crafts to choose from, many of which showcase the work of local charities and self-help projects, as well as antiques and second-hand books. Once a month a pop-up craft beer and folk music bar opens, while local youth groups such as the Soweto Marimba Youth League perform every week.QRosebank Mall (rooftop), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 72 243 8582, www.rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

B&B MARKETS NORWOOD MALL With around 300 stalls this market has something for the whole family, from vintage bric-a-brac and traditional crafts to beautiful home décor items and tasty cuisines from around the world. For kids there are funfair-style games, a jumping castle, buskers and musical entertainment.QRooftop, Norwood Mall, cnr 6th Ave and Hamlin St, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 444 4488, www. norwoodmall.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

B&B Markets Norwood

Fourways Farmers Market

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THE SHEDS@1FOX This historic warehouse complex houses a market with a focus on local and organic produce. There’s no shortage of space, making for happy families. Parents may want to make a beeline for the Champagne and oysters, while kids will love the bubble teas and homemade icecreams. Other delicious lunch options include Balkan Burgers, Baha Taco and Soul Souvlaki.QB-5, Entrance at 1 Main St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. + 27 82 3677 849, www.1fox.co.za. Open Thu–Sun – see their website for specific times. Night market (with live music) last Fri of the month until 22:00.

BRYANSTON ORGANIC MARKET In existence for close to 40 years and still offering a superb range of organic goods, sustainable crafts and home-baked products in a relaxed and leafy environment.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www.bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu and Sat 09:00–15:00.

SOUVENIR SHOPPING If you like to bargain hard and enjoy friendly market stall banter, Joburg’s many craft markets are some of the best places to hunt for souvenirs. The African craft markets at Rosebank (Rosebank Mall, open 09:00– 17:00) and Sandton (Nelson Mandela Square, open 09:00–18:00) are open daily and have dozens of traders selling everything from beaded sculptures, west African masks, Malian carved chests and embroidered throws to paintings, jewellery, toys and ceramics, as well as all the classic keyrings, magnets and mugs to give to your work mates back home. On the corner of William Nicol Dr and Main Rd in Bryanston there is also an African craft market with remarkable sculpted items from as far

Rosebank Market

Neighbourgoods

BluBird Market

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Market Daze PICNIC IN THE PARKS Stock up on gourmet goodies at our recommended markets, and head to the parks: Blubird Whole Food Market (Cnr Atholl Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, Sun 09:00-14:00), Jozi Real Food Market (25 Braeside St, Greenside, Sat 08:30-13:30), Bryanston Organic Market or Fourways Farmers Market (see Family-Friendly Markets).

Zoo Lake, Parkwood

away as Senegal and Congo (open daily from 07:00). You can also watch the sculptors at work here. Many of the city’s weekend markets sell fantastic handmade items.

For one-of-a-kind gifts and quirky souvenirs try B&B Markets Norwood Mall, Rosebank Sunday Market or the Soweto Art and Craft Fair (Soweto Theatre, Bolani Rd, sacfmarket). For vintage fashion finds, unique interior design pieces, cool T-shirts and the like try Neighbourgoods or Market on Main.

NEIGHBOURHOOD MARKETS Joburg is a city of many worlds and its neighbourhood markets are a perfect reflection of this. Sometimes it feels as if you need a visa to travel between them. For an authentic traditional African experience take a tour with MainStreetWalks (see Sightseeing) of the Mai Mai traditional healers market. In nearby Yeoville visit the produce market with its traders from across the continent with Maurice Smithers (tel. +27 82 373 7705).

In Fordsburg the weekend market is a great place to browse for Bollywood films, incense sticks and Manchester United football kit knockoffs while sampling excellent Indian street food (between Mint and Central Rds, Fordsburg, Fri night to Sun). At newly minted The Greensider on the busy nightlife strip you’ll find a daily food hall offering everything from Balkan burgers to pimped up yiros, in a cleverly converted space that was once a hardware store (20 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, greensider).

ANTIQUES, COLLECTABLES For collectors the Antiques and Collectables Fair, one of the biggest antiques fairs in South Africa takes place at Nelson Mandela Square on the first Sunday of the month and at Hyde Park Corner on the last Sunday of the month (ssaf.co.za). Also worth browsing are B&B Markets Norwood Mall and Rosebank Sunday Market (see Family-friendly Markets) where the tables are laden with vintage finds. See Shopping for mall directory. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

BOTANICAL GARDENS / EMMARENTIA DAM A sprawling green oasis favoured for weekend weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00.

DELTA ENVIRONMENTAL CENTRE One of the city’s biggest parks, there’s a lot of wideopen space to explore. Bring your binoculars and settle into one of the bird-viewing hides.QCnr Rd 3 and Craighall Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 888 4831, www.deltaenviro.org.za. Open 08:30–16:00.

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS Impressive flora and fauna, waterfalls and other natural delights.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu.

Open 08:00–17:00.

ZOO LAKE A rainbow crowd hangs out here, playing cricket, rowing boats, enjoying picnics, and generally winding down on a weekend. Can get overcrowded so young families may prefer visiting on weekdays.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131. Open 10:00–21:00. K

MARKET DAYS Daily African Art and Craft Market Rosebank/Sandton, Mai Mai Market, The Greensider (closed Mon) Thu The Sheds@1Fox, Bryanston Organic Market, Night Market on Main (first Thu of the month) Fri The Sheds@1Fox (open until 22:00 last Fri of the month) Sat Neighbourgoods Market, Jozi Real Food Market, The Sheds@1Fox, Bryanston Organic Market, Fordsburg Night Market Sun Market On Main, Rosebank Sunday Market, B&B Markets Norwood Mall, Fourways Farmers Market, Locrate (first Sun of the month), BluBird Whole Foods Market, The Sheds@1Fox, Antiques and Collectables Market (first Sun Nelson Mandela Square, last Sun Hyde Park Corner) * See johannesburg.inyourpocket.com for updates.

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Nightlife ing had an extensive refit since then it may look new, but Lord’s is old-fashioned in the way traditionalists love: you can smoke freely, there’s sports on the TV and the barman always has an ear for your troubles. What to drink: It’s a pub – beer, of course. There is Castle and Peroni on tap and a fridge full of local bottled brands.QProtea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. Open 11:00–02:00. W

African Pride Melrose Arch Hotel

BEST HOTEL BARS Whether you are looking to enjoy classic cocktails by the pool, sip whisky with the jet set, entertain clients in style or join the young and fashionable for craft beers downtown, Johannesburg has the right hotel bar for you. We went in search of seven of the best.

CENTRAL ONE BAR & SUN DECK Wave goodbye to the city before you hop on the Gautrain to the airport from this slick roof terrace opposite the Sandton station. The unusual corner view tells you in a glance all you need to know about Africa’s richest square mile: brash skyscrapers and faux Tuscan towers pepper the skyline while below flashy cars, minibuses, tuk tuks and construction trucks trundle on by. Watch the sun set over this fast and flash corner of South Africa. What to drink: Classic sundowners; order your G&T pink or with an apple twist.QRadisson Blu Gautrain Hotel, Cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www. radissonblu.com/hotelsandton-johannesburg. Open 06:00–01:00. B LIBRARY BAR Popular with local politicos and business executives, the air hums with the buzz of deals being made, successes being toasted and African business booming. Inside, the library-like interior has the darkly handsome elegance of a well-established members’ club with large leather Chesterfields, moody lighting and a deep-red pool table, while the wide covered terrace nods to colonial elegance. What to drink: Toast to your own success with a fine malt whisky or a cognac.QAfrican Pride Melrose Arch Hotel, 1 Melrose Square, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.africanpridehotels. com. Open 10:00–23:00, Fri–Sat 24hrs. BW LORDS CIGAR BAR Sneak through the plush lobby and keep to the left, let the doors swing open and you’ll find yourself in an old-fashioned place that dates back to Sandton’s farm years. Hav-

Johannesburg In Your Pocket encourages responsible drinking. Turn to page 3 and use our discount code on your first Uber ride.

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THE BANNISTER BAR Maybe it’s the many palms and succulents, or perhaps it’s the whir of the ceiling fans and the fresh breeze wafting in through the wide-open windows, but there’s something almost tropical about the atmosphere at this friendly and attractive bar. With a little stretch of the imagination you could be looking out over the shores of Maputo, rather than the lively streets of downtown Joburg. The basement bar hosts live music. What to drink: When hanging out with hipsters, what else is there to drink but craft beer.

The bar has great local brews Soweto Gold and Aces Lager on tap.QC-3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open Mon–Thu 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–02:00. Closed Sun. W THE HIDEOUT BAR The budget backpacker’s bar of choice, this is a great place to meet fellow travellers and like-minded individuals. The name of the bar is inspired by the building’s history as a secret printing press and a hideout for anti-apartheid leaders. Gigs by local bands, street art events, braais and games nights are just some of the regular fun events. What to drink: The cheapest local beer behind the bar is Black Label. Prove how long you’ve been on the road by calling it what the locals do: Zamalek.QG-4, Curiocity Backpackers, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 592 0515, www.curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 12:00–22:00.

THE ISLAND BAR Join Joburg’s rich and beautiful on top of the city’s most luxurious shopping centre. After a hard day’s designerlabel shopping and a quick manicure, this is where local celebs and socialites love to unwind over cocktails and Champagne. The sunset views from the pool across the leafy northern suburbs stretch for miles. What to drink: Champagne is the way to go, darling.QSouthern Sun Hyde Park Hotel, 1st Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 341 8080, www.tsogosunhotels.com. Open 07:00–23:00. B THE TERRACE – CIGAR & WINE BAR In this massive courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. Birds tweet overhead and water trickles into tranquil infinity pools which nestle under romantically-lit palm trees. The service is discreet yet attentive, the chairs soft and roomy. What to drink: Think martinis, Manhattans and mojitos. The wine list is excellent.QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg. regency.hyatt.com. Open 15:00–22:00. BW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dancing clubs, to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that nightlife areas are spread across the city. Wherever you go, make sure that if you are driving you stay sober or take a taxi. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18. Credit cards are accepted everywhere unless otherwise stated.

BRAAMFONTEIN The city’s student heartland, ‘Braamies’ is the place for the newest fashions, hippest events and parties that last until sunrise. Most of the nightlife action is centred on the corner of Juta and De Beer Sts. Kitchener’s is a hip but unpretentious hangout in an old Victorian pub. A second-home for Joburg’s cool kids and creative types, the welcoming atmosphere and youthful ambience is addictive (tel. +27 11 403 0166. Open 10:00–21:00, Thu 10:00–02:00, Fri,Sat 10:00–04:00). Next door The Great Dane attracts a similar crowd and its small and quirky courtyard packs out on weekends (tel. +27 11 403 1136. Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00).

Anti-Est on the opposite side of the road caters to a less studenty, but equally diverse and creative crowd and specialises in imaginative cocktails and craft beers served in a slick atmosphere (tel. +27 74 187 2421. Open Wed–Fri 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00). The Bannister Hotel bar also attracts a more mature crowd and is an excellent place to enjoy drinks in an easygoing atmosphere while watching the street life (see Hotel Bars).

Rooftop parties are among the hottest places to be seen in this edgy neighbourhood. On summer Saturdays, get to The Beach for cocktails and deckchairs on this man-made rooftop beach (68 Juta St, +27 11 492 1440.

Open 12:00-19:00). Look out for pop-up rooftop parties several storeys above the city at Bullion at 17 Wolmarans Street; The Park at 100 Juta, home of the Inner-City Picnics parties; and Randlords, famous for its Sunday Skyline Sessions house nights (41 de Korte St, +27 11 489 1930, www.randlords.co.za). Make sure you plan ahead to see what rooftop parties are taking place as these venues open on an ad-hoc basis. As well as hip bars and rooftop parties, you’ll find the excellent jazz club The Orbit here, the city’s leading live jazz venue (81 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www. theorbit.co.za. Open 11:30–02:00. Closed Mon).

GREENSIDE A night out in Greenside can be as wild as you want with students, stag dos and office parties frequently rolling up in their party buses en masse for a big night out. This is bar crawl territory. Follow the predominantly young crowd hopping from one bar to the next, getting progressively drunker as the night wears on, along Gleneagles Road.

Anything goes on the party strip – you have been warned. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Po Na Na, Greenside

For warm-up drinks with a big crowd the car park-cumbeer garden at Mish Mash is popular and has a huge wine selection (20 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 11 026 2915.

Open 16:00–02:00, Sat 11:30–02:00, Sun 11:30–22:00). The 1970s township themed Mama’s Shebeen also has long tables and crazy shooters such as the Sowetan Toilet to get you started (18 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 84 380 3451. Open 10:00–23:00).

For dancing up a sweat and going wild the crowded dancefloors of Gin (12 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 79 524 8303.

Open 15:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Sun) and Tokyo Star (26 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 11 486 3344. Open 16:00–24:00, Fri–Sun 11:00–24:00) are the go-to places. The Moroccanthemed cocktail bar Po Na Na is a more mature and less hedonistic alternative (137 Greenway Rd, +27 71 436 8645.

Open 16:00–14:00. Closed Sun–Tue).

MABONENG Sunday afternoon is the most buzzing time to drink in Maboneng with lots of action surrounding the Market on Main (see Market Daze). For a free salsa party get to the Canteen rooftop (266 Fox St. Sun 12:00–17:00) and for sundowners with a chilled-out party vibe you can’t beat the garden oasis that is the Living Room’s rooftop bar (5th floor, 20 Kruger St, tel. +27 61 402 2843. Open Thu–Sat 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–20:00).

Other great bars worth seeking out in the area include Pata Pata, a 1960s township jazz inspired restaurant and café-bar with regular live music (286 Fox St, tel. +27 73 036 9031. Open 08:00–23:00); the craft beer bar Chalkboard, a great place for drinks after a visit to the P.O.P. Art Theatre or the Bioscope cinema (286 Fox St, tel. +27 039 7306.

Open 08:30–23:00). Lenin’s Vodka Bar has some of the best vodka-based cocktails in the city (300 Commissioner St. Open Wed–Sat from 16:30, Sun from 11:00). Zebra Inn is a fabulously cheap and grungy bar that is decorated with the taxidermied heads of almost 100 African animals (cnr Fox St and Albertina Sisulu Rd).

For an extra special night out contact MainStreetWalks about their bar crawls which take in all of the latest cool bars as well as historic pubs and hidden shebeens in the surrounding area (see Sightseeing: City Tours). Look out too for the monthly Warm Up Jozi rooftop party held on the first Saturday of every month (see What’s On).

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Nightlife 11 482 8306. Open 12:00–02:00) and Jo’anna Melt Bar is your stop for craft beers and vintage-chic interiors (tel. +27 72 733 5966. Open from 12:00. Closed Mon).

Liberation Café is an inviting place that is completely open to the street with seating on upcycled beer crates with oil drum tables (tel. +27 11 026 6217. Open 16:00–02:00, Fri–Sun 12:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Tue) and the legendary Ratz, Melville’s gay-friendly hangout, is much-loved for its easy-going crowd and cheesy-pop music (tel. +27 11 482 9965. Open 16:00–02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00).

ROSEBANK Salsa at Canteen, Maboneng

MELVILLE Joburg’s original bar-hopping area is Melville’s 7th Street.

The venues change almost as regularly as the weather, but the nightlife in this bohemian student neighbourhood is always thriving. The street has long had a reputation for being a bit grungy, but slicker new venues are slowly changing that image and offering even more variety. Here’s a selection of just some of the bars Melville has to offer.

Starting at the top of the street, the Mozambicanthemed Xai Xai is Melville’s original dive bar (5 7th St, tel. +27 11 482 6990. Open 07:30–02:00), Six is the place for cocktails with a good-looking and friendly crowd (tel. +27

MELROSE ARCH More than just a mall, Melrose Arch is a designer lifestyle playground. The Africanthemed restaurant Moyo is a great place to celebrate good times with a big group of friends. Ask to go down to their wine cellar, where they have different wine tastings every day or get in holiday mood with their rainbow coloured cocktails and a big sharing platter of exotic African dishes. Choose to sit out on the piazza or cosy up in one of the quirky little alcoves inside lit by beautiful Moroccan lamps. Live bands playing African instruments, face-painting and a traditional handwashing ceremony are also part of the fun. (tel. +27 11 684 1477, www.moyo.com. Open 11:30–23:00). For a flashy atmosphere and a rather clubby vibe later on at the weekend, try Churchills, a fancy gastro-pub above the main piazza with an impressive wine and cocktail list (tel. +27 11 684 1040, www.churchillsbar. co.za. Open 14:30 until late). For wine tastings pop into the wine shop and bar Winesense, where you can help yourself to tasters from the vending machines (tel. +27 11 684 1487. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00).

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The place to dress up and strut your stuff, particularly around the Design District where the bars and clubs are popular with wannabe models and sports stars. For cocktails and a great pre-party atmosphere try Liquid Chefs (The Zone@Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 6412. Open 11:00–02:00, Mon 14:00–22:00, Wed, Thu 11:00–23:00) or the more upmarket Niche Lounge Bar with its slick pop theme and an air of exclusivity (cnr Keyes and Tyrwhitt Aves, tel. +27 11 880 0033. Open Wed–Sat 15:00–02:00).

Make sure you are dressed to impress before hitting up the Kong nightclub (cnr Jan Smuts and Tyrwhitt Aves, tel. +27 11 447 0993. Open Fri and Sat 21:00–05:00).

For a quieter night with good company and a fine whiskey the jazz lounge Katzy’s is a good bet (The Firs, Cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ln, tel. +27 11 880 3945. Open 12:00–24:00. Closed Sun). Alternatively for a sophisticated evening try the Level Four Champagne Bar or settle in under the trees at the Hyatt Regency’s stunning courtyard garden (see Hotel Bars).

SANDTON The shopping and business hub of southern Africa may not be the hippest place for a night out but there are a handful of bars to hang out in as well as some exclusive nightclubs where VIP is not just a label but a full-time lifestyle. Friday nights are when the area’s thousands of white-collar workers head out for a post-work drink. Join them for cocktails on the large News Café terrace in the 24 Central complex (cnr Gwen Ln and Fredman Dr, tel. +27 11 452 8770, open until 02:00) or buy a drink at the bar at Hard Rock Café (table service can be slow) and find yourself a place overlooking Nelson Mandela Square (tel. +27 11 784 3144, open 11:30–24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–02:00).

For cheesy rock and pop music there’s always The Baron (24 Central, tel. +27 11 883 8435, open 12:00–01:30) and for a British-Irish pub atmosphere The Brazen Head is a short tuk-tuk ride away (cnr Linden Rd and Anne Crescent, tel. +27 11 783 6122, open 08:00–01:30).

To rub shoulders with the rich and beautiful, put on your glad rags and try make your way past the velvet ropes at 24 Central’s opulent Cocoon Lounge (tel. +27 11 783 2316, open Wed–Sat 21:00–05:00) or the exclusive nightclub Taboo (tel. +27 11 783 2200, open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife PUBS JOLLY COOL & JOLLY ROGER There are actually two Jollys, one on either side of the street, and both get rowdy when the students are out. Jolly Cool has streetside seating, pool tables and a giant sports screen, while the Jolly Roger resembles an old-fashioned balconied pub.QCnr 4th Ave and 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 327 5883. Open 12:00–02:00, Mon 16:00–02:00. BW THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British ‘gastropub’ trend, the Griffin deals in craft beers, posh pub food and fancy-looking wallpaper. A popular haunt of boisterous young professionals who like to drink late.Q1 Corlett Dr (Illovo Junction, cnr Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za.

Open 12:00–01:00. Closed Mon. BW THE RADIUM BEERHALL The area surrounding this characterful Victorian pub has seen better days but the bar is definitely worth a visit.

Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays it’s famous for mouth-watering Portuguese food and live jazz, folk and blues.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–23:30, Sat 11:00 until last guest. Closed Sun. Admission R50–R80 on some performance nights. E HOGSHEAD A suburban strip mall isn’t the most inspiring venue for a British-style pub, but it does afford lots of space. Many sports screens and self-service craft-beer taps make this perfect for watching the big game.Q10 Illovo Muse, Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0871, www.hogshead.co.za.

Open 12:00–01:00, Sun–Mon 12:00–23:00. EBW GILES PUB AND RESTAURANT The long bar hums with all types of visitors, from tipsy yuppies to wizened sports fans and those hungry locals who are addicted to the famous fish and chips.Q9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 4056. Open 12:30–23:00. LBW GUILDHALL PUB The oldest pub in the city is still going strong, thanks to the dedicated owner and the loyal customers who never seem to leave the place. Fascinating original interiors in the shady downstairs bar and a breezy wrought iron balcony up top.QD-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Harrison St (Library Square Gardens), City Centre, tel. +27 11 833 1770. Open daily from 11:00 until last guest. B STANLEY BEER YARD An attractive garden specialising in craft beer and German food with long tables nestling beneath olive trees. Inside it resembles a stylish hunting lodge. Folk bands often perform.

Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open Tue–Thu 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00– 23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. EBW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SUMMER DRINKS Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows,* one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997.

She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter.

There’s nothing better on a hot summer’s day than a long glass of your favourite gin. Of course, tonic is the mixer of choice for this delicious thirst-quencher, but I have been known to mix gin with fresh pear juice (completely delicious) or strawberry juice and crushed mint. Gin allows you to veer from the norm with the greatest of ease – it goes with almost anything.

The liquor industry is no different from any other and experiences its fair share of trends, and the hottest, newest and latest of these just happens to be gin.

Gin – or ‘mother’s ruin’ as it was once popularly known – is a distilled white spirit that derives its flavour and character from (mainly) juniper berries but other botanicals and flowers, too. We find its earliest origins in the Middle Ages, with Holland laying claim to its birthplace.

Gin is actually classified in four different categories, but we don’t need to concern ourselves with that.

The most important thing is that we learn which gin presses our buttons, and for what reasons. When you see London Dry Gin on a label, the gin must have been made in a specific manner: the gin is obtained exclusively from ethanol of agricultural origin, which is then re-distilled with plant materials that will impart their specific flavours to the gin. It is not allowed to contain sweeteners, colourants or preservatives. Sometimes London Dry Gin is simply called ‘dry gin’, which I think is by far the most delicious of all gins.

There is a rash of gin labels covering our shelves at Norman Goodfellows: Hendricks, Inverroche (local and very lekker), Gilbeys, Gordons, Old Buck, Boodles London Dry, No 3 London Dry, Beefeater, Bombay Saphire, Tanqueray, Seagrams, to name but a few. Do yourself a favour and taste your way through most of them, all the while experimenting with mixers. I can guarantee you a summer with a difference.

For heaven in a glass: 2 measures of Tanqueray 1 squeeze of fresh lime 1 scrape of lime rind 250ml of a tonic of your choice * 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za.

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Sightseeing ANSTEYS BUILDING (1936) This beautiful art deco ziggurat skyscraper was once the tallest modern structure in Africa. Ansteys is probably Joburg’s most demographically diverse residential building, appealing to artists and young professionals, as well as inner-city families and people who have called the building home since the CBD was a ‘grey area’. The penthouse apartments offer original bay windows, timber floors and panoramic city vistas.QD-4, 59 Joubert St, cnr Jeppe St.

ONE CITY, TWELVE ICONS Brian Kent McKechnie is a Joburgbased architect. He has a passion for (architectural) heritage, chaotic cities, excessive travel, collecting classic cars and especially exploring downtown Joburg. This is his pick of iconic structures dating back to the city’s inception.

ANGLO AMERICAN (1945) This head office forms the heart of the South African gold-mining industry. Modelled on the League of Nations complex in Geneva, the Anglo American campus includes sculptures by celebrated South African artists, fountains, and an urban garden along the pedestrianised Main Street.

QC-5, 45 Main St.

RISSIK STREET POST OFFICE (1897) Designed by Transvaal Republic architect Sytze Wierda, Rissik Street Post Office remains one of the grande dames of downtown Joburg. Sadly the building was gutted by fire in 2009 – while future plans for restoration seem sketchy at best, the facades remain largely intact, with pretty red brick walls, sandstone detailing, and the remains of elegant timber sash windows.QD-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu and Rissik Sts.

HILLBROW TOWER (1968–71) Hillbrow Tower dominates the Joburg skyline, visible from the furthest outposts of the metropolis. The tower is now thankfully free of the giant ball placed there to promote the 2010 Soccer World Cup.QE-1, Goldreich St.

RAND CLUB (1904) The Rand Club opened its doors at 33 Loveday Street in 1887. The location was chosen by Cecil John Rhodes, a convenient gander from his offices at Corner House.

Housed in an imposing Edwardian structure that was modelled on the Reform Club in London, complete with sweeping staircases, bronzed columns, the longest bar in Africa and a beautiful timber-panelled library, it is a perfect retreat from long days expanding mining empires and plotting political intrigue.QD-5, 33 Loveday St, cnr Fox St.

CARLTON CENTRE (1970–74) The Carlton office tower has remained the tallest building in Africa for over 40 years! Grab a bird’s eye view of the city from the 50th-floor observation deck, or glimpse the glamorous ghosts of movie stars, captains of industry and leaders of the free world through the darkened windows of the locked-down Carlton Hotel.QE-5, 150 Commissioner St. PONTE CITY APARTMENTS (1976) Once dubbed the biggest dustbin in Africa, Ponte City embodies the pure, sordid, 24-carat soul of Joburg.

Designed as a self-contained city for the obscenely wealthy, Ponte haemorrhaged residents after the mid-1970s State of Emergency and the subsequent flight of capital to the northern suburbs.

A good indicator of renewed confidence in Joburg, Ponte is now fully occupied – a first in the building’s 38-year existence.

QF-2, 1 Lily Ave. See City Tours.

JOHANNESBURG CITY HALL (1912) This stately sandstone civic building houses the Gauteng Provincial Legislature. Now restored to its former glory, rumour has it that the imposing City Hall is set to host regular Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra Concerts.

QD-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu and Rissik Sts. BARBICAN BUILDING (1929) This was briefly Joburg’s tallest building at a neckbreaking 11 floors. Recently refurbished, this eclectic ‘skyscraper’ will soon form the centrepiece in a new corporate head office precinct for one of the big four South African banking institutions.QD-4, Cnr Rissik and President Sts.

Ansteys

Barbican

Carlton Centre City Hall

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Hillbrow Tower FNB Bank City

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Sightseeing CITY TOURS ANCIENT SECRETS Historical and culinary walking tours of the inner-city with an emphasis on food as culture.QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets.co.za.

JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION A diverse range of weekend walking and bus tours focused on the city’s history and architecture led by heritage specialists. See schedule online.QTel. +27 11 482 3349, www.joburgheritage.co.za. Bookings can be made Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS Open-top, hop-on hop-off bus with 11 stops in the City Centre and south Joburg, including the Apartheid Museum. Also links to a Soweto minibus tour.QTel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg.

Bus leaves from Park Station Gautrain, first bus 09:00, last bus 15:40. Buses every 30–40mins.

MAINSTREETWALKS Discover street art and the Mai Mai healers’ market with this vibrant Maboneng-based tour company.

Their bar crawl wins top marks. Tours offered by foot or by bike.Q302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, www. mainstreetwalks.co.za.

DLALA NJE Walking tours around the tough inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturday) and Yeoville (Sundays), including a visit to the 52nd floor of the Ponte building for awe-inspiring views of the city.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org.

PAST EXPERIENCES Well-researched offbeat inner-city walking tours with many themes such as Mandela’s City, Shopping Joburg, Street Art and Graffiti. Tours can be tailormade.

Soweto and Pretoria tours also offered.Qtel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za.

GALA (GAY AND LESBIAN MEMORY IN ACTION) Organises inner-city tours focused on Joburg’s queer history and the struggle for LGBT rights in South Africa.

QTel. +27 11 717 4239, www.gala.co.za.

JOBURGPLACES Entertaining tours of the inner-city taking in its history, regenerated areas, hidden places and multicultural areas such as Little Addis and the fashion district. Tours can be tailormade.QD-5, The Turret, cnr Marshall and Loveday Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 82 894 5216.

‘THE DIAMOND BUILDING’ (1984) Often mistaken for the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, 11 Diagonal Street was designed by the famed American Architect Helmut Jahn. The building’s mirror-glass facade was created to reflect the bustling streets, and surrounding city skyline.QC-4, 11 Diagonal St. FNB BANK CITY (1995) The sprawling FNB head office complex has recently been reimagined. First Place, the central granite-clad courtyard, has transformed into an urban oasis, complete with indig-

TURBINE HALL (2007) This former power station now houses events aficionados The Forum Company, as well as Anglo Gold Ashanti. This transformed industrial structure, weaving antiquated historic building fabric into a slick corporate head office, is a fitting metaphor for the gritty, vibrant and authentic city that is 21st-century Joburg.QC-4, 65 Ntemi Piliso St.

‘Diamond Building’

Post Office Anglo American

enous trees, fountains and an outdoor lounge with banking executives sipping coffee and discussing exchange rates.QC/D-4, 1 First Place, Simmonds St.

Turbine Hall

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Ponte

Rand Club

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Sightseeing CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little museum with its window exhibits was once the offices of the first black law firm in the city – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952–56 that fought apartheid’s restrictions on black life.

Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of Mandela as a boxer (see page 58). A perfect selfie opportunity. Plan a 20-minute visit.QC-5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

Mandela mural, Vilakazi Street

THE MANDELA TRAIL Nelson Mandela (1918–2014) left his indelible mark across Johannesburg: from his early years as a lawyer at the first black law practice in the city to the Rivonia farm where he plotted the overthrow of a cruel apartheid government.

There are many sites at which you can learn more about the life of this world figure. For an online tour of his life and legacy go to www.nelsonmandela.org.

APARTHEID MUSEUM This extraordinary museum with its landmark architecture brings to life the horrors of apartheid from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence. Powerful displays and interactive elements tell the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. + 27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org.

Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets R65; students, pensioners R50; under-18s R20 (not recommended for children younger than 10).

MANDELA’S SANDTON LILIESLEAF FARM In the early 1960s the idyllic Liliesleaf farm in Rivonia functioned as the secret hideout and meeting place for prominent anti-apartheid leaders. It was here that plans for an armed struggle, which eventually led Mandela and many of his comrades into prison, were formulated. Interactive exhibits offer fascinating insights into the amazing story of the Rivonia raid and trial. Plan for two hours plus.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za.

Open daily 09:00–16:00. Closed 25.12, 26.12, 01.01.

Tickets R60, children 8–17 years old R30. Guided tours from R110.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE One of the best-known statues of Nelson Mandela towers over this shopping-mall square in Sandton.

QNelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton.

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CONSTITUTION HILL This complex includes The Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court, revealing some of the darkest hours of 20th-century South Africa, while also showcasing the optimistic future enshrined in the modern Court. Mandela was one of the few black prisoners kept at the Fort. The exhibits also bring to life the many stories of notable and ordinary people who passed through this place. Visitors can attend court hearings.QD-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www. constitutionhill.org.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 10:00– 15:00. Closed Sun. Entrance to the complex and court is free. Tours from R40.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of fascinating thematic displays that cover key events in South Africa’s military history, including the African National Congress anti-apartheid armed-resistance movement, Umkhonto we Sizwe (MK), of which Mandela was co-founder. Plan a two-hour visit.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www.ditsong.org.za. Open daily 09:00– 16:30. Tickets R25, senior citizens and children R15.

MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house with his second wife, Winnie, in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Inside, the small rooms are filled with memorabilia belonging to the pair. Plan a 20-minute visit.Q8115 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 7754, www. mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45. Tickets R60 (citizens of African Union countries R40), kids over six R20, kids under six R5.

NELSON MANDELA BRIDGE The city’s most impressive post-1994 landmark was completed in 2003. At night it lights up with the colours of the rainbow. At 284m in length it is the biggest cable-stayed bridge in Southern Africa. The bridge links Braamfontein to Newtown.QC-3, Bertha St, Braamfontein.

NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY Founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive, the centre’s permanent exhibition focuses on the life and times of Mandela and his dedication to social justice, complemented by many personal artefacts.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela. org. Free entrance, by appointment only. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing CITY OF GOLD Joburg was built on gold – literally it sits on the edge of the world’s largest known gold deposit. And since the first discovery in 1886 the search for gold has shaped the mentality of the city, a hustler’s paradise with a whiff of lawlessness, a magnet for adventurers and opportunists alike. People still flock here hoping to strike it rich. To relive the history, follow this trail.

RAND CLUB Founded in 1887 as a members-only club, this grand place harks back to British colonial style and fabulously rich mining magnates. Nowadays the club welcomes all sexes and races (as long as you obey the smart dress code) and hosts regular non-member events. Highlights of this fabulous place include the beautiful library, the billiards room with its taxidermied hunting trophies, the grand staircase, and the Main Bar said to be the longest wooden bar in Africa where beer is still served in tankards.QD-5, 33 Loveday St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 870 4260, www.randclub. co.za. Thu evenings are open to all.

ERNEST OPPENHEIMER PARK This small green space behind the historic Rissik Street Post Office is named after the famous South African mining tycoon. It was restored in 2010 to include a basketball court and numerous public artworks, among them the Oppenheimer Diamond. An impala sculpture pays homage to the original leaping impalas at Anglo American’s headquarters nearby, which were rescued after being stolen and hacked up for scrap.QD-4, Cnr Joubert St and Albertina Sisulu Rd, City Centre.

MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT Walk along this pedestrianised street, from the Carlton Centre to Chancellor House, to see the covered wagons, stamp presses and old headgear that dot the route next to the headquarters of global mining giants. The beautiful facade of Anglo American is a highlight, as are the leaping impala statues along the brick walkway. On weekdays office workers enjoy the street cafés, and the presence of mining companies ensures that the area is safe, clean and pleasant to explore. Stop at Cramers for coffee (cnr Harrison and Main Sts) and at the Standard Bank building (5 Simmonds St) to see an old mine tunnel, Ferreira’s Stope, uncovered in the 1980s (open during banking hours).QC/D-5, Main St, City Centre.

WORKERS’ MUSEUM The Newtown workers’ compound was built in 1913 for male African migrant workers at the nearby power plant.

Housing 300 men in just nine rooms, the conditions were appalling. Closed in the early 1980s, it is now a museum detailing the struggles and hardships of migrant workers and pays homage to their important role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.QB-4, 52 Jeppe St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 336 9190. Open 09:00–16.30.

Closed Mon. Admission free. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Former mining-explosives company headquarters

GOLD REEF CITY Visit this gold-rush theme park to ride the Tower of Terror, experience the Story of Gold tour which includes a gold-smelting demonstration, and visit a replica mining village. Fifteen minutes' drive from City Centre.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 09:30–17:00. Tickets R165.

CULLINAN PREMIER DIAMOND MINE Tour this working mine (two hours) to see where the world’s largest diamond was discovered and have lunch on the town’s pretty main street. About 45 minutes' drive from City Centre.QOak Ave, Cullinan, tel. +27 12 734 0081, www.diamondtourscullinan.co.za.

SHOPPING: SHINY THINGS Bryllianta Diamonds & Tanzanite is a perfect place to start your journey to acquiring one of these flawless beauties. It is a plush, private and secure jewel boutique offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton while you shop. Owner Bryna's many years of experience will ensure that you can tell the difference between your carats and your carrots before you make your purchase.Q16th Floor, Office 06, The Forum of Sandton Square (2 Maude St), Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867, www.bryllianta.com. Appointments on weekdays and after hours (if required).

Reads is where you’ll find designer antique and locally made jewellery, silverware and other beautiful objects.

Established in 1912, it offers an exquisite selection of fine diamond and gemstone jewellery with excellent service.

QShop C221, Rosebank Mall (near Stuttafords), 50 Bath Ave, +27 11 880 2702, www.reads.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

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Sightseeing dent of the African National Congress. Today his home is a monument to his life and the heydays of Sophiatown during the 1950s when the vibrant suburb produced musicians and writers such as Hugh Masekela and Can Themba. Among the excellent exhibits is the moving 'forced removal' display, with its traces of lives so cruelly wrenched from Sophiatown.

QCnr Edward and Toby Sts, Sophiatown. tel. +27 11 673 1271. http://sophiatown.net. Open Mon–Thu 10:0014:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Fri, Sun except by appointment. Museum entrance R35, walking tour R70 to R130.

Guided walks every Sat at 11:00 or by prior arrangement.

Booking required.

Katherine Love at Lindfield House

HOUSE MUSEUMS In a city where history is fleeting and easily overwritten by the drive for newness, house museums, often lovingly preserved by a single owner or trust, offer increasingly rare and privileged glimpses into past lives. These are some favourites.

LINDFIELD HOUSE On a quiet street in Auckland Park you’ll find Katherine Love's monument to Victorian life (with some Edwardian references). She has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. The house was built in 1910, after the Victorian era (1837–1901) and not much of Victorian Joburg remains. But step inside, accompanied by Love in costume, and you will be transported. Love is able to brilliantly conjure the Victorian period through her vast knowledge of everyday habits, and is very much part of the lavish exhibits that spread across 18 darkened rooms.Q72 Richmond Avenue, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932. http:// lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open 10:00–17:00, booking essential. Tours start from R50, High Tea R120. Book at least one week in advance.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908-09 Mohandas Gandhi lived here with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, the architect who designed the house. He devoted his time to living a simple meditative life and developing and promoting his new philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and nonviolent civil disobedience). The farmhouse is now a guesthouse and museum dedicated to Gandhi's principles. Photographs, correspondence, journal entries and beautifully displayed inspirational quotes bring to life Gandhi’s philosophy.

Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928. www. satyagrahahouse.com.

SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE Dr A.B. Xuma’s Sophiatown home was built for him in 1934, and was one of the last structures left after the apartheid government razed the multiracial suburb in 1955 to build the white Afrikaner suburb of Triomf (Triumph). Transkeiborn Xuma was a medical doctor who later became presi46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

L. RON HUBBARD HOUSE Scientology founder L. Ron Hubbard lived in this exceptional house atop Linksfield Ridge in the late 1960s.

Designed by Frank L. Jarrett in 1951, it perches atop the hillside offering incredible views of the city. Hailed as a fine example of post-war Modernist architecture the house has been faithfully restored to its 1960s state painstakingly recorded by Hubbard in photographs and film footage. Hubbard’s life and his achievements are laid out across the upstairs rooms, and his story is told through photos, letters and artefacts of a life well-lived, as a Boy Scout, seaman, glider pilot, writer of more than 300 science fiction titles and consummate documentarist of his own life.Q40 Hannaben St, Cyrildene. tel. +27 11 054 0540. www.lrhhouse.org. Open 10:00–21:00. Admission free. Booking required.

FURTHER AFIELD Outside Joburg and Gauteng, these house museums are worth visiting.

JAN SMUTS HOUSE MUSEUM In the Pretoria suburb of Irene is Doornkloof, the home for 40 years of General Jan Christiaan Smuts, a former prime minister of the Union of South Africa. Fascinating for the intimate details of this philosopher and statesman's life.QJan Smuts Avenue, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 1180, www.jansmutshouse.co.za.

PILGRIM’S REST A relic of a bygone age, this tiny, historic village in Mpumalanga has been preserved as an 1880s gold-mining settlement complete with a church, pub and house museum typical of the upper-middle-class Victorian style. It was declared a national monument in 1986.

QTel. +27 13 768 1060, www.pilgrims-rest.co.za.

THE OWL HOUSE Born in 1897, Helen Martins lived in Nieu-Bethesda in the Great Karoo. Her former home is hailed as the finest local example of outsider art. Martins and her assistant, Koos Malgas, created a startling universe of sculptures that is one of the great South African wonders.QTel. +27 49 841 1642, www.nieu-bethesda.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MEET YOUR ANCESTORS

ALEXANDRA

The oldest hominid fossils were discovered in Gauteng in an area now called The Cradle of Humankind. The most recent discovery in this area, Australopithecus sediba, was made in 2010 and is 1.977 million years old. Other notable remains found in the area include Mrs Ples, a 2.3-millionyear-old hominid skull, and the mysterious Little Foot, discovered in 1995 and thought to be more than three million years old. Ancient animal and plant fossils also discovered here suggest that this hot and relatively dry region of South Africa was once part of a tropical rainforest where giant monkeys and sabre-toothed cats roamed the land.

MAROPENG AND THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND It is worth taking a trip to Maropeng, the museum located in the Cradle itself, around 40 minutes’ drive north-west of the city. The museum’s extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it: from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind, the discovery of fire and the spread of people across continents.

You can also take a tour to the nearby Sterkfontein Caves, where many of the area’s most famous fossils were found.

End the day with dinner at Roots, one of Joburg’s most celebrated fine-dining establishments.QR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Tours of the caves every 30 minutes. Maropeng R145, students R85, kids under 14 R82. Sterkfontein Caves R150, students R85, kids under 14 R88. Combination ticket (Sterkfontein Caves and Maropeng), R215, kids under 14 R155. Kids under 4 free.

MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE The Melville Koppies (‘koppie’ means ‘small hill’ in Afrikaans) boast archaeological remains of Stone Age and Iron Age settlements and great views over the city. Best to visit on one of the guided walking tours which leave every weekend and provide insight into the area’s unique ecosystem.QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org.za.

ORIGINS CENTRE The excellent Origins Museum explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source.

Alongside the many paleoanthropological exhibits there is also a fascinating focus on San culture and rituals.QB2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www. origins.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

Admission R60, children under 12 (accompanied by an adult) R35. Guide fee R180 (minimum 10 people).

PALAEO TOURS This company arranges tours of Drimolen, a paleoanthropological dig in the Cradle of Humankind which is not usually open to the public. Tours are led by scientists working in the area and are organised on a group basis.QTel. +27 11 023 4234, www.palaeotours.com. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Alexandra Bicycle Tours

An area of just 6.9km2 with an estimated population of 180 000, Alex assaults the senses. Its narrow streets seethe with life and colour, and although it is a fraction of Soweto’s size, Alex’s character easily makes up for what it lacks in scale. We’ve heard people from Soweto joke that Alex is the place Sowetans go to for a ‘real’ township experience. Located just 6km from Sandton and linked by the Malboro Gautrain, Alex is slowly waking up to its potential as a tourist attraction offering lots of history (Nelson Mandela lived here when he first came to Johannesburg) and a unique township culture.

ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS Jeff Mulaudzi, the charming founder of Alexandra Bicycle Tours, meets visitors at the Marlboro Gautrain station and takes small groups on two- or four-hour cycling tours around Alex to stops that include historic sites, shebeens and cafes where you can try typical ‘kasi’ food and meet the locals.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, www.alexandratours.co.za. Tours from R300–R400.

MABONENG TOWNSHIP ARTS EXPERIENCE Where once there was Dark City, now there is Maboneng, meaning ‘place of light’ – not to be confused with the inner-city district. Started in 2001, Maboneng gives township artists a way to exhibit their work by turning people’s homes into ‘galleries’. Their art tours are a great way to get insight into everyday life in Alexandra.QTel. +27 21 824 1773/+27 73 777 8937, www.maboneng.com.

TOUR 2.0 Organises community-led tours in various townships. The cultural and historical Alex tour is titled Lights, Gangs And All That Jazz, and includes lunch with a local jazz band, a short movie screening at the 33mm cinema, Kings, and a visit to the old headquarters of one of Alex’s notorious gangs from the 1950s.

QTel. +27 12 770 3608, www.tour2-0.com.

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Sightseeing: Soweto Located 30km south-west of Joburg City Centre, South Africa’s most famous township is a top tourist attraction.

Soweto was always at the forefront of the struggle against apartheid and there are several worthwhile sights that showcase this history. Although many areas are still desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier neighbourhoods and a growing middle-class. Whether you stop by its museums or just to party, you’ll find that it is the people who make your Soweto visit most memorable.

GETTING THERE AND TOURS Ubuntu Kraal Kasi Beer Garden, Orlando West Extension

ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING Regina Mundi Church played a hugely significant role in the struggle against apartheid and has the bullet holes to prove it (1149 Kumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville).

Mandela House Museum is the most popular attraction on Vilakazi Street – the address is actually 8115 Ngakane Street, corner Vilakazi Street (see The Mandela Trail).

The Hector Pieterson Museum is an outstanding and deeply moving memorial to the events leading to the Soweto school uprising on June 16, 1976 (8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 115 36 0611. Open 10:00– 17:00. Admission R30).

Walter Sisulu Square is where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955 (Klipspruit Valley Rd, Soweto).

The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS (satnav), but if you do plan to drive yourself, main tourist destinations are well signposted. The Rea Vaya bus is the easiest way to arrive on public transport, with buses from central Johannesburg stopping near many of the key sights (see www.reavaya. org.za for route maps). For a whistle-stop two-hour tour hop on the Sowetoo (www.citysightseeing.co.za/ joburg) minibus which links to the City Sightseeing Bus at Gold Reef City. With prior arrangement you can hop off for two hours at Vilakazi Street and catch up with the bus later. To see the township at a more relaxed pace, Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobicycletours.co.za) run two-hour, half-day or full-day bicycle or tuk tuk tours with visits to shebeens for refreshments. To see a completely unexpected side of Soweto, join the avid conservationist and birding guide Raymond Rampolokeng of Bay of Grace Tours (tel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours.wozaonline.co.za).

He leads eco-tours to Soweto’s green areas such as the Orlando Dam wetlands and the Enoch Sontonga koppie (hill), from where the views over Soweto are expansive.

SOWETO MAP

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Sightseeing: Soweto SOWETO COOL Don’t visit Soweto looking only for evidence of the past – it’s likely you’ll miss out on its burgeoning contemporary cultural and social scene. Here are just some of the chicest new Sowetan hangouts. For the best Soweto markets see our feature, Market Daze.

THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store deep in the suburbs has been selling its own clothing brand, Thesis Lifestyle, since 2008. Their brand references Soweto street culture and their slogan T-shirts and ‘bucket’ hats are hugely popular. Next door is Thesis Café selling salads, wraps, fresh juices and smoothies.

The store operates a running club, and every first Sunday of the month hosts a jam session.Q173 Machaba Dr, Mofolo Central, tel. +27 11 982 1182, thesissocialjamsession. blogspot.com. Open 10:30–19:30. Closed Mon. THRIVE CAFÉ Vilakazi Street is best known for its plethora of Africanthemed restaurants selling traditional township fare.

Amid the souvenir stalls and tourist buses is Thrive Café, a slick, modern space with a huge terrace overlooking the street. It specialises in barista-brewed coffee, fresh breakfasts, healthy salads and free wi-fi.Q8038 Vilakazi St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 536 1838, thrivecafe.co.za.

Open 07:30–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN The home of Soweto Gold, Soweto’s very own craft beer.

At the huge beer garden you can take a brewery tour before tasting one (or all) of their beers, including a crisp, classic lager and apple, cherry or ginger-flavoured beers.

Their ‘gourmet township grill’ menu is short, meaty and utterly delicious, and the staff are charming. Weekends are the best time to be here when house DJs make the atmosphere buzz.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, tel. +27 74 738 0355, www.sowetogold.co.za.

Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. E’ SOCIAL LINK SHISA NYAMA & CAR WASH Going to the car wash takes on an entirely new meaning in Soweto where getting your car cleaned involves socialiasing and enjoying some roasted meat along the roadside.This ‘car wash’ is a fresh chill spot combining class and an addictive social vibe.QMdeni Link and Impala Rds, Emdeni, tel. +27 73 668 7636.

MY SOWETO Born and raised in Soweto, 26-year-old Zanele Mashumi is an art lover who started curating exhibitions in Soweto in March 2013. Today Mashumi Art Projects regularly pops up at Nex Dor on Vilakazi Street.

I grew up in Rockville. My love for art started with me copying my brother’s cartoons and drawing clothes for my dolls. The interest never stopped. I went for my first art workshop at Johannesburg Art Gallery when I was 15. Even though art wasn’t taught at my school I found other means of developing my talent. I was mentored by artist Kenny Nkosi, who nurtured my talent until I went to university to study fine art. I started Mashumi Art Projects because there were no art gallery spaces in Soweto. There was also a gap for developing artists.

Soweto has a lot of talent. Here most people have the perception that art is for a certain kind of person, but we show that it is for everyone. I’ve worked with a lot of artists from emerging talent to established artists such as Patrick Kagiso Mautloa, Bambo Sibiya and David Koloane.

A lot of Soweto artists’ work focuses on current affairs. The styles vary a lot. Most of our clients are firsttime buyers who want to start collecting art. Soweto is thought of as unique because of its historical sites, but mostly it’s because of the people and diverse culture.

There is a sense of unity within this vast community.

On weekends you’ll find me at the markets. We host painting sessions at the Locrate market, educating the community about art by involving them through creating their own painting. This year I am looking into creating a travelling exhibition in and around Soweto.

The one place that sums up Soweto for me is Vilakazi Street because you get to experience the full package there: the history, people, food and culture.

Soweto is growing so rapidly. Give it five more years and it will be the ‘it’ place to visit.

Follow Mashumi Art Projects on Facebook for upcoming exhibitions, www.mashumiartprojects.wordpress.com.

SOWETO COOLING TOWERS No visit to Soweto is complete without taking in the iconic Soweto Cooling Towers. Popular with bungee-jumping thrill-seekers, the weekend party-crowd also throng here to enjoy the Chaf Pozi beer garden and braai (for more on shisa nyama-style cooking, see page 24). The wetlands surrounding the towers are also a haven for all kinds of birdlife.QTurn left onto Nicholas St, cnr Kingsley Sithole St, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Sightseeing: Soweto of Anglo American, Ernest Oppenheimer (991 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central).

In nearby Jabulani is the impressive Soweto Theatre, the leading cultural institution. Mainly used for concerts and poetry recitals, the theatre also stages plays produced by local writers and hosts the popular Soweto Arts and Crafts Fair on the first Saturday of every month (cnr Bolani Rd and Bolani Links Rd, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, www.sowetotheatre.com).

Soweto Towers, Orlando

NEIGHBOURHOODS CHRIS HANI ROAD Many of Soweto’s biggest landmarks are found along the main thoroughfare, Chris Hani Road. Hani was the leader of the South African Communist Party and was assassinated shortly before the first democratic elections. At its western end near Thokoza Park is the Regina Mundi Church. Heading east over the Klipspruit river you can’t miss the glitzy Maponya Mall and a huge Virgin Active Gym, both signs of just how much Soweto’s middle-class has grown (2127 Chris Hani Rd, Klipspruit Ext 5, www.maponyamall.co.za).

Chris Hani Road is best known for the massive Baragwanath Hospital and the eponymous taxi rank. A public transportation hub and bustling market, mini-buses travel from here to all corners of the township, a fact celebrated in a series of nearby public artworks.

JABAVU AND JABULANI The quirky Credo Mutwa Cultural Village is located inside Jabavu Central’s Oppenheimer Park and is a unique representation of African mythology. Built in the 1970s by the traditional healer and sculptor Credo Mutwa, it is now looked after by a passionate caretaker Lebohang Sello (tel. +27 78 810 2664) who will happily explain the complex meanings behind Mutwa’s mystical and prophetic sculptures.

You can also enjoy a panoramic view of the entire township by climbing the Oppenheimer Tower with its 49 steps, each marking a different suburb of the township.

The tower is named after the mining magnate and founder

Wandile Zondo, co-owner of Thesis Concept Store

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KLIPTOWN In 1955 the Congress of the People gathered on the main square of Kliptown (now Walter Sisulu Square) to draw up the Freedom Charter, a document that forms the basis of South Africa’s new constitution, regarded as one of the most progressive in the world. Open-air exhibitions and a small visitors’ centre explain the principles of the Freedom Charter and give background to its amazing history. Kliptown is the oldest area of Soweto and is a place of striking contrasts. Surrounding the square are lively markets and the inviting upmarket four-star Soweto Hotel & Conference Centre, a great place to stop for coffee or hang out for jazz on a Sunday (tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za).

Just across the train tracks Kliptown residents still live in shacks without running water. Hidden among unpaved streets are striking murals painted by international artists and a palpably strong sense of community. If you want to take a dive into this other side of Kliptown, ask around for Bafana Nkosi (a local birdwatcher, poet and guide) who is part of Post 77, an inspirational local art collective who run their own art gallery and are turning local dump sites into gardens. We don’t recommend you venture to the other side of the tracks without a local guide. For a Kliptown guided walk, contact Kabelo Malefane (+27 76 604 8842).

ORLANDO WEST Vilakazi Street is Soweto’s most famous street, marketed as the only street in the world to once have had two Nobel peace prize laureates living there – Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. A blue heritage plaque marks Tutu’s home and the little Mandela House Museum is the most popular attraction.

There are plenty of good places to eat and drink on Vilakazi Street plus ample opportunity to purchase local crafts and Soweto-themed souvenirs. For a walk on the wild side, look out for the sign to Soweto Snakes Show.

Try Nambitha Restaurant (6877 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 9128, www.nambitharestaurant.co.za) and Sakhumzi (6980 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 939 4427, www.sakhumzi. co.za) for typical township fare and exotic African dishes, Thrive Café (8038 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 536 1838, www. thrivecafe.co.za) for international cuisine and cafe culture or Nex Dor (6979 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 039 7631) for cocktails and pop-up art exhibitions by Mashumi Art Projects (mashumiartprojects.wordpress.com).

For the Soweto Soccer Derby, see What’s On. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Pretoria Apart from offering a genteel antidote to Jozi’s hustle, Pretoria is in the midst of shaking off its former main claim to fame as South Africa’s administrative centre, and recasting itself as the Cool Capital. It started with a civic-led guerrilla biennale in October 2014, bringing with it myriad interventions designed to alter perceptions of the city. Much more is planned (see www.coolcapital.co.za), making Pretoria worth a visit.

GETTING THERE Just 50km from Joburg, a 40-minute drive on the M1 North, Pretoria is a perfect day trip from Joburg. Beat the traffic blues with a Gautrain trip, starting at R44 to Centurion from Sandton Station (a 19-minute journey). Depending on your destination you can also choose the Pretoria Central or Hatfield stop.

WHERE TO STAY

Paul Kruger in Church Square

AFRICAN PRIDE IRENE COUNTRY LODGE A luxury bolthole perfect for a weekend getaway. Hotel rooms look onto rolling lawns and a picturesque lake and bird sanctuary. Outstanding views and luxuriant green space compete for your leisure time along with the excellent Camdeboo Spa and the adjoining golf course. Located in the historic village of Irene with its oak tree-lined lanes, you could be forgiven for thinking you had slipped the bounds of city life. A five-minute drive from the Gautrain Centurion Station.QNellmapius Dr, Irene tel. +27 12 667 6464, www.irenecountrylodge.co.za.

DUNCAN YARD For a boutique experience, head to the arty Duncan Yard, known for its quirky stores and creative décor. The location has a bohemian feel with a resident chicken pecking its way around the lanes, where you will find independent décor and clothing stores. Have a light lunch at Deli on Duncan or enjoy dinner at the eclectic Papa’s restaurant.

QCnr Jan Shoba (formerly Duncan St) and Prospect Sts, Hatfield, www.duncanyard.co.za.

MOROCCAN HOUSE A visit to Morocco inspired an architect and his interior designer partner to recreate their favourite destination. Leave everything behind the moment you enter Moroccan House with its ornate tiles, intricate lighting, rich colours, and the soothing sound of burbling water from the mosaic fountains.

Moroccan House is a guest house, with a décor store and café serving Moroccan food.Q435 Atterbury Rd, Menlopark, tel. +27 12 346 5713, www.moroccanimports.co.za.

SHOPPING AND EATING IRENE DAIRY FARM The Van Der Byl family farm since 1895 has been supplying the city with fresh milk, raw cream and other excellent dairy products. Reconnect with pastoral life amid lowing cows, free-ranging chickens and excellent deli goods.

QNellmapius Dr, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 4822, www. irenefarm.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00.

ANTIQUE ROUTE 6 For vintage bargain hunters, download the map to 12 unique stores (www.antiqueroute6pretoria.co.za). Start browsing at An-tea-k Kettle, next to Pure Café, where you can enjoy a coffee, smoothie or healthy breakfast.

Q137 Thomson St, West Colbyn, tel. +27 12 342 1443.

Open 07:15–16:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HAZEL FOOD MARKET This food market offers the widest selection of tasty treats, including wasabi-flavoured fudge, incredible olives, Moroccan tagines and chilli bites. Open on a Saturday, the area is worth visiting any day of the week for its array of cafés, restaurants and décor store Wonen+ with a hand-picked selected of local design items and homeware. Try Carlton Café for tarte tatins, lasagnes and excellent salads; Boer’geoisie for its authentic Afrikaner cuisine – meat is king here; Isabella’s for delectable cupcakes and other sweet things, or Toni’s for a pizza.QGreenlyn Village Centre, Thomas Edison St, Menlo Park, tel. +27 83 554 5636.

MARKET@THESHEDS Located in old warehouses in the heart of the central business district, this is a hipster-friendly market focused on locally designed goods, craft beer, live music, and vintage clothing. Open every second Saturday of the month, it is within walking distance from Church Square.Q385 Helen Joseph St (former Church St), City Centre, www.marketatthesheds.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00.

SIGHTSEEING Pretoria has plenty of attractions, from an excellent zoo to an interesting array of museums and historic sites such as the Union Buildings, where Nelson Mandela’s body lay in state after his death in 2013. Designed by Sir Herbert Baker for the commemoration of the Union of South Africa February – April 2015

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Sightseeing: Pretoria MAGALIESBERG Rising above the Cradle of Humankind and just a 45-minute drive from Joburg, the Magaliesberg mountain range is an inviting place to take a nature break.

Here are some ideas for a great day out in the country:

Irene Country Lodge view

in 1910, the buildings are the official office of the President.

You cannot enter but you can admire the exterior and the fine vistas. Other top picks include: CHURCH SQUARE This impressive public square is a rare bird in South African cities. A statue of Paul Kruger, the iconic Boer president, surveys the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela and his compatriots were sentenced to life in 1964. Other historic buildings include the Ou Raadsaal (Old Government) building, the Old Capitol Theatre and the Old Nederlandsche Bank building. Dine al fresco at the historic Café Riche (2 Church Sq, tel. +27 12 328 3173) or Tribeca (220 Vermeulen St, now Madiba Street, tel. +27 12 321 8876).QHelen Joseph St. FREEDOM PARK AND THE MONUMENT The 52-hectare Freedom Park is an impressive memorial to South Africa’s history and heritage, themed around humanity, freedom and healing. Rich in symbolism the park showcases the different struggles South Africa has faced along the path to democracy. A guided tour is highly recommended. Combine a visit with a trip to the nearby Voortrekker Monument for a different perspective on the South African story.QFreedom Park, cnr Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, Pretoria, tel. 0800 470 740, www.freedompark.co.za. Two-hour tours leave at 09:00, 12:00 and 15:00. From R45.QVoortrekker Monument, Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof, tel. +27 12 326 6770, www.vtm.org.za. Open Sep–Apr 08:00–18:00, May–Aug 08:00–17:00. Admission R50, kids R25.

GROENKLOOF NATURE RESERVE Africa’s oldest game reserve is an oasis just 4km from the city centre and home to giraffe, zebra and other wildlife. It has 17km of hiking trails, a 4x4 trail and mountain-biking trails, overnight facilities and a picnic area. The guided horse trails are R110 for a two-hour ride.QCnr Eeufees Rd and Christina de Wit Ave, Groenkloof, tel. +27 12 440 8316, www. tshwane.gov.za. Open Sep–Apr 05:30–19:00, May–Aug 07:00–18:00.

YOUR SHO’T LEFT STARTS HERE See www.gauteng.net for more Gauteng attractions #GeePeeShotLeft 52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Get up high and admire the view: For the trip of a lifetime float over the hills on a sunrise hot-air balloon ride (see Sport & Outdoors); budget travellers can ride the Hartbeespoort Aerial Cableway (Melodie, Hartbeespoort, tel. +27 72 241 2654, www.hartiescableway. co.za. Open daily, first car up 09:00, last car down 16:45); or for a thrilling, adrenaline-fuelled day out, zoom across the canyons and kloofs by zipline at Magaliesberg Canopy Tours (Sparkling Waters Hotel & Spa, Rietfontein Farm, Rustenburg, tel. +27 14 535 0150, www. magaliescanopytour.co.za. Open 06:30–16:30).

Learn about African cultures: At the Lesedi Cultural Village the ancient traditions of South Africa’s many peoples are brought to life. Visit traditional Zulu, Basotho, Xhosa, Pedi and Ndebele homes and listen to the timeless songs of the ancestors as you eat dinner by the fire.QKalkheuwel, Broederstroom R512, Lanseria, tel. +27 87 940 9933, www.lesedi.com.

Indulge in a farmhouse lunch: Die Ou Pastorie is a wonderful farmhouse-style restaurant which makes great use of organic produce from nearby farms. Sunday brunch is a favourite time to come here, especially when local folk musicians are playing live in the garden (check their website for concert schedules). Don’t forget to stock up on the delicious jellies and the famous chicken liver pate on your way out.QS56 (off R560), Scheerpoort, tel. +27 12 207 1027, www.dieoupastorie.com. Open for breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Fri and Sat. Hug a bushbaby: The Magaliesberg is home to one of the country’s best monkey sanctuaries. Here rehabilitated former pet monkeys are free to swing around through the forest stealing hats and posing for photos as tourists pass along the raised walkways.QR512 Hartbeespoort, tel. +27 12 258 9908, www.monkeysanctuary.co.za.

Lesedi Cultural Village

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BRAAMFONTEIN On any Saturday morning thousands of people jam Braamfontein’s streets, flocking to the hangout of Joburg street-style royalty: the Neighbourgoods Market (see Market Daze). Step beyond the crowds for cool stores and galleries in the surrounding streets. With plenty of café and bar options (see Where to Eat and Nightlife), you have a district beckoning to be explored from morning to night.

Here are some shopping highlights: ART Stevenson Gallery A contemporary and cutting-edge gallery (also in Cape Town) showcasing an international exhibition programme with a particular focus on Africa. Look out for work by Guy Tillim, Pieter Hugo, Zanele Muholi and Nandipha Mntambo.Q62 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1055. www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00– 13:00. Closed Sun. BOOKS Fourthwall Books A literary publisher producing beautifully crafted limited editions, many of them about Joburg history, art and culture. Fourthwall also imports a small selection of specialist titles from independent art book publishers.QShop 5, Norvic House, Reserve St, tel. +27 11 403 3009, www.fourthwallbooks.com. Open Wed– Sat 10:00–16:00.

DESIGN Doktor & Misses Quite simply one of the top names in South African furniture and homeware design. Katy Taplin and Adriaan Hugo’s signature style combines bold colour, modern lines and superb craftsmanship. Every home deserves a piece.Q68 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1024. www. dokterandmisses.com. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00.

Closed weekends.

FASHION The Heritage A cornucopia of brands on a busy street corner including Palladium, K-Swiss, Toe-Porn and other labels for those in the know.QShop 20, cnr Melle and De Korte Sts, tel. +27 11 339 1074. Open Mon–Fri 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Puma Select If this store got any cooler it would have to relocate to Antarctica. A showcase of international collaborations, many of them displayed as artworks for your admiring glances. Made for those who worship the designer sneaker at any price.Q81 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 3096, www.pumaselect.co.za. Open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Stevenson Gallery, Braamfontein

X-Trend For sneaker fans this place is heaven. Lots of limited-range designer shoes. Sister stores in Sandton City and V&A Waterfront in Cape Town.Q20 Melle St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 1078. Open Mon–Fri 08:30– 19:00, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 08:30–15:00.

Stache Cool high-street menswear and the place to find local hatwear favourite Simon & Mary and other musthave items for a modern gentleman’s wardrobe.QShop 4, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 2185. Open Mon–Sat 09:00–17:00.

D.O.E. For affordable imported high-street fashion for him and her you can’t beat Design of Europe. Bold, funky clothing for the young and young at heart.Q87 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 303 3037, www. designofeurope.com. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS While most people think of Joburg as wall-to-wall mall, there are plenty of shopping options whether your tastes are for High Street, eclectic local labels, cheap and cheerful imports, vintage or crafted items. And besides, the mall is no longer just the mall. A growing trend has seen weekly markets join retail stores to attract weekend shoppers (see Market Daze). We have organised shopping by area (see Neighbourhoods). See Shopping Directory on page 56 for contact details. For help with specific shopping categories, see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

HYDE PARK & SANDTON For swanky premium designer European labels and socialites galore, Hyde Park Corner is the place to be seen.

The most stylish and compact of the major malls, the centre has good café-food options in Life and Tasha’s La Parc. Head to Carol Boyes for a selection of pewter homeware items. At nearby Sandton City you’ll find hundreds of high-street labels and exclusive brands. For souvenirs we love African Origins with its wide range of fabrics, beaded goods, placemats and quirky Ts. The adjoining tourist hotspot Nelson Mandela Square (for Mandela statue selfies) is a magnet for Africa’s elite.

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Shopping Joburg’s most popular High Street, great for browsing antiques, boutiques and enjoying café society. Nonna is the latest gift hotspot with an exciting array of South Africanmade items. Egality is an elegant store for local designer threads. Travel along 6th Street for Kluk CGDT’s elegant ready-to-wear and couture clothing and Yswara’s range of luxury African teas and scented candles.

Rosebank Mall

ROSEBANK Rosebank Mall is a mega-mall. Stop at Indegenius for Eastern Cape-made luxury mohair jackets, and at Reads for designer contemporary and antique jewellery. The Exclusive Books branch is the best-looking bookstore in town. The Zone@Rosebank attracts youthful crowds with local labels Big Blue (great for witty T-shirts and gifts), The Space and Sowearto (clothing by up-andcoming South African designers), and Urban Zulu (using traditional African fabrics). In The Firs, look out for Clive

by Clive Rundle, a South Africa Fashion Week cult label, and Piece for unique crafted goods favoured by the likes of Oprah and Elton John.

MELROSE For refined streetside shopping and café society, there’s Melrose Arch. The flagship Edgars store stocks the SA Fashion Week capsule collections. At nearby Blubird (free parking) enjoy a meal on the patio and shop at a small collection of independent stores. The red velvet cake at Belle’s Patisserie is legend. Pop into Le Bijou for costume jewellery. In the scenic suburb of Birdhaven, Kirsten Goss & Missibaba is worth the detour for exquisite jewellery and handtooled leather handbags, plus attractive streetside cafés and a butcher selling excellent biltong (the ‘wet’ style is most addictive).

NORWOOD The Norwood Mall offers a casual shopping environment. On Norwood’s main drag, Grant Ave, The Factory on Grant is a cute new outdoor complex, with the Bayliss Gallery, glass-blowing studio Smelt and bakery Vovo Telo in an open courtyard. For bargain hunters, Hospice Corner is an impressive complex of charity shops with an excellent second-hand bookshop. A few blocks away is Kalahari Books, with more than 70,000 titles and personalised service.

THE PARKS For art shopping, Parkwood’s galleries are unbeatable (see What’s On: Joburg Art Scene). At Togu’na in Parktown North you’ll find precious objets and artefacts from across Africa. In next-door Dunkeld, Firehouse stocks beautiful ceramics and homeware. Parkhurst‘s 4th Avenue is 54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MELVILLE 7th Avenue is quirky Melville’s main drag with an eclectic selection of stores. At Snow Lion you’ll find South African-designed gifts, and an excellent selection of used titles at Bookdealers. For excellent vintage clothing, head up 7th Avenue to Reminiscene. The chic Bamboo Centre houses the superb Love Books, which stocks great South African fiction, while Black Coffee is where you’ll find local designer Jacques van der Watt’s meticulously constructed garments, and the innovative Tshirt and homeware brand Love Jozi. Artist Sue-Pam Grant’s fascinating installation space is across the road.

MILPARK 44 Stanley, a converted 1930s industrial complex, is a charming space to shop, dine and drink with lots of cute courtyard cafés and the Stanley Beer Yard. Look out for Art On Paper Gallery, Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe’s form-fitting and exquisitely tailored clothing, Anatomy for exquisite homeware , and other specialist boutiques.

FORDSBURG Home to Joburg’s Indian and Muslim communities, go to this colourful neighbourhood for cooking spices and plenty of bargains. Cassims has a well-priced selection of top sportswear brands and football strips (53 Central Rd, +27 11 836 6037), and Hindu prayer shop Swadesh stocks gods and incense (45 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 021 1682, www.swadeshi.co.za). At the centre of it all is the famous Oriental Plaza, where you can find everything from clothing, exotic fabrics, toys and household items to weddingwear and decorations. Many stores have tailors to ensure the perfect fit (38–60 Bree St, www.orientalplaza. co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–15:00 Closed Sun and during Friday prayers 12:00–14:00).

MABONENG This happening downtown district is a cool shopping location for hip fashion items and homeware. At 1886 Boutique you’ll find unique Jozi-branded items (20 Kruger St, tel. +27 11 469 3770). For contemporary African fashion there’s Stitch & Steel, Kitenge, a tiny container store stocking East African cloth, or Story Tellers of Fashionkynd, an Afro-centric boutique (Main Street Bizarre, 263 Main St, tel. +27 73 733 2457, www.storytellersoffashionkynd.com). Sunday is a great day to visit Maboneng with the market in full swing. On Mondays many shops close.

For a great selection of books and art, head to David Krut Projects in Arts on Main, and for the adventurous reader and collector, Collectors Treasury, a few blocks up Commissioner Street is a treasure trove. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

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Shopping SHOPPING DIRECTORY MALLS Blubird Cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 887 2759, www.blubird.co.za. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

Hyde Park Corner 6th Rd, cnr Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkshopping. co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00.

Melrose Arch Melrose Blvd, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 0000, www.melrosearch.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Nelson Mandela Square Maude and West Sts, tel. +27 11 217 6001, www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–16:00.

Norwood Mall Cnr 6th Ave and Hamlin St, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 728 6640, www.norwoodmall.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00. Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00.

Rosebank Mall Baker St, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.themallofrosebank.co.za. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00– 17:00. Sunday Market 09:00–16:00.

Sandton City Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

The Zone@Rosebank 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 537 3800, www.the-zoneatrosebank.co.za.

Open until 19:00 on Fri, Sat. The Firs Cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 3650, www.thefirs.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–13:00.

INDIE MALLS Bamboo Lifestyle Centre Cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online. co.za. Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00.

The Factory on Grant 70 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 82 876 2372.

44 Stanley 44 Stanley Ave, cnr Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00 and Sun 10:00–15:00. Note many shops and cafés do not open on Mon. LUXURY GOODS Kirsten Goss & Missibaba 66 Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 447 2234, www.kirstengoss.com. Open 09:30–16:30, Sat 09:30-13:00, Closed Sun and public holidays.

Yswara 57 6th St, Parkhurst, +27 010 590 12 74, www. yswara.com. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed weekends.

CRAFT AND GIFTS Anatomy Shop G15, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 024 3272, www.anatomydesign.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00.

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Nonna, Shop 9, The Cobbles Centre, 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 8297, www.nonna.co.za.

Open 09:00–17:00.

Snow Lion, 12b 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2795 www.snowlion.co.za. Open 10:00–21:00.

Tog’una, 235A Jan Smuts Ave, Parktown North, +27 11 447 7654, www.toguna.co.za, Open 09:00–17:00. Sat by appointment only. Closed Sun. Firehouse Shop 16, Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, +27 11 325 2225, www.fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00.

FASHION Black Coffee Cnr Rustenberg Rd and 9th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.blackcoffee.co.za Open 09:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 09:00–15:00.

Egality 25 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 71 452 2503, www.egality.co.za Open 09:00–18:00.

Guillotine Unit G3C Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 82 222 3635, Open Tue–Sat 09:00–16:30, Sun 10:00–14:00.

Kluk CGDT 46 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 83 377 7730, www.klukcgdt.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:30– 14:30. Closed Sun. BOOKS Bookdealers 12 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 4054, www.bookdealers.co.za. Open Mon 09:00–21:00, Tue– Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–21:00.

Collector’s Treasury 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556, Open Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00.

Hospice Corner Cnr 9th St and Louis Botha Ave, tel. +27 11 728 1052. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–13:00.

Closed Sun. Kalahari Books Tuxedo Junction, 2 Dunottar St, Orange Grove, tel. +27 82 678 8619, kalaharibooks.co.za.

Open 09:30–16:30. Closed Mon. Love Books Bamboo Centre, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

PAN-AFRICAN FASHION For pan-African-style inspiration, head to Fashion Kapitol (130 Pritchard St, City Centre). A monthly themed fashion show takes place Saturdays. While there, stop in at Studio 109 (tel. +27 11 333 3060) for wax-print fabrics and the original Three Cats shweshwe (traditional Xhosa prints now de rigueur in any Afro-chic wardrobe). At Fruitcake Vintage (tel. + 27 11 024 8005. Open 10:00–17:00, closed Sun) the coolest cats in town are styled by Sthembiso, the owner.

For African-inspired haute couture make an appointment with Bongiwe Walaza who has a store on the square (tel. + 27 11 333 1098), and then order a light lunch from the Fashion Shack (www.fashiondistrict.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & Outdoors PULSE-RACING JOBURG Driving behind a minibus taxi, on the highway and in the rain (or being a passenger inside one for that matter) is certainly one way to set your pulse racing. But there are other fun ways to get your heart rate up in this city.

BUNGEE JUMPING IN SOWETO Bungee, swing, climb, abseil or scad fall at Soweto’s iconic towers. If you don’t have the stomach for the drop, ride up to the viewing platform for an eyeful of Soweto. Arrive on the day or book in advance. Groups of six or more require advance bookings.QOrlando Towers, Dynamo St (cnr Old Potch Rd), Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Thu–Sun 10:00 until sunset. R480 for bungee, R360 for power swing and R60 to ride to the viewing platform.

CYCLE ACROSS THE CITY AT NIGHT Join Critical Mass for an inner-city bike ride on the last Friday of each month. Cyclists of all ages and backgrounds show up in their brightest gear to reclaim the night-time streets for two-wheelers. Contact the organisers well in advance if you need to rent a bike – e-mail james@criticalmass.co.za or call Busi on tel. +27 79 817 4674.Qjhb. criticalmass.co.za. Free.

DO AN URBAN IMMERSION WEEKEND Joburg’s version of the Amazing Race is called Jozi – The Amazing Place. With just a smart phone and some cash you will spend the weekend navigating the city’s edgier neighbourhoods, discovering hidden gems while completing various challenges. Price includes accommodation, meals, transport, and all entertainment.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org. From R1 750 for two nights and two days, all inclusive.

FLOAT AWAY ON A HOT-AIR BALLOON Enjoy a sunrise hot-air balloon ride across the beautiful Magaliesberg, just outside Johannesburg. Floating above the treetops with a glass of champagne in hand is an unforgettable experience. Balloon flights are followed by a delicious breakfast back on terra firma where you are also awarded with your ‘Citation for Bravery’.QBill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris, tel. +27 11 705 3201, www. balloon.co.za. Costs R2 150 per person for 60 minutes.

QUADBIKING THROUGH SOWETO Run by a champion of Soweto Tourism Kgomotso Pooe, Soweto Outdoor Adventures offers tours of Soweto by quad bike. On the dusty back roads of informal squatter camps to Vilakazi Street, you’ll get a different perspective from your quad bike.QTel. +27 72 692 8159, www. sowetooutdooradventures.co.za. From R350 per person.

RAP-JUMPING IN THE INNER-CITY A pure adrenaline rush: launch yourself face first down a 24-storey building with just a rope to guide you. Like abseiling only way scarier (no prior experience required). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Hot-air balloon ride in Magaliesberg

Pure Rush also organises other unusual adventure sports such as sand-boarding on the mine dumps.QTel. +27 82 605 1150, www.purerush.co.za. Call for more info.

TAKE A HELICOPTER RIDE Enjoy breathtaking views of the city on a helicopter ride.

Flights can be tailor-made to suit your needs and special packages include a horse trek and picnic in the Magaliesberg or even a ‘learn to fly’ flight where you sit in the pilot’s seat.Qwww.fly-helicopters-sa.com. Flights can be booked 09:00–16:00. Scenic flights from R1 295 per person (minimum two passengers).

VISIT A HIJACKED BUILDING For a real walk on the wild side, visit one of the city’s notorious ‘hijacked buildings’ – places that have been deserted by their owners and are squatted by the desperate. Normally we would recommend you avoid such places at all costs, but inner-city tour specialists MainStreetWalks have done their research and found a way to safely lead insightful tours into one of these most feared buildings.QTel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za.

ZIPLINE OVER A POOL OF CROCODILES Fly 150m over a pool of crocodiles by zipline. Suspended 5m above the ground, your feet are just out of reach of the croc’s jaws. There’s also a snake show, if being cuddled by a python is how you like to get your thrills. For the full reptile experience, order a crocodile pizza for lunch.QCroc City, Plot 59, cnr Cedar Rd and R114, Nietgedacht 535, Fourways, tel. +27 83 657 7561, www.croccity.co.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Entrance R70, under 12s R50. Flyover R95, under 12s R75.

SKY-DINING For an extraordinary perspective, eat breakfast, lunch or dinner on a hosted table suspended from a crane up to 60m above the Fairway Hotel and Golf Resort. The surrounding 360-degree views are sure to turn any meal into an occasion. Start the day with a round of golf or book a treatment at the hotel spa.QDinner In The Sky: tel. +27 84 449 6040, www.dinnerinthesky.co.za. From R320.

Fairway Hotel: Setperk St, Randpark, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za.

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Sport & Outdoors BOXING Journalist Nechama Brodie is the author of The Joburg Book and has been known to go a few rounds in the ring. She tells you what you need to know.

‘Shake hands and come out fighting’ could be Joburg’s unofficial motto. And, indeed, the city has a long and rich tradition of fisticuffs, some of which even happened inside the boxing ring. Like many other activities, for most of the 20th century boxing in South Africa was segregated (first by the British colour bar system, later by apartheid laws). ‘Non-European’ bouts were often staged at the Bantu Men’s Social Centre – one of the famous fighters to step onto the canvas there was heavyweight champ Ezekiel Dlamini, whose story was captured in the Sophiatown jazz musical King Kong (Dlamini’s ring name).

When interracial matches were allowed after 1973, a new golden age of world-class South African boxers emerged, including Charlie Weir, whose title bouts could fill Ellis Park Stadium, Brian Mitchell (aka the ‘road warrior’ as he had to defend his titles outside apartheid South Africa); and flyweight champion Jacob ‘Baby Jake’ Matlala.

Although boxing’s popularity has waned in recent decades – hamstrung by an inept sports administration, and eclipsed by the spectacle of ‘extreme’ mixed martial arts fighting – Joburg is still centre stage for the country’s new crop of contenders. White-collar boxing, or ‘yuppie boxing’, has won over legions of new fans, as ordinarily deskbound suburbanites (myself included) have discovered the fitness benefits and pure thrill of learning how to give (and take) a punch. If you really want to learn the sweet science of bruising there’s no substitute for a session with a real boxing trainer. (Photo by Dean Hutton.)

FAMOUS BOXER The city’s most wellknown fighter who never fought a title bout is Nelson Mandela. His image was captured by Drum lensman Bob Gosani in 1952 as he sparred on a downtown rooftop.

The photograph inspired sculptor Marco Cianfanelli’s ‘Shadow Boxing’, a 6m-high painted metal sculpture in front of the Johannesburg Magistrate’s Court where Mandela fought for justice as a lawyer at the city’s only black law practice in the 1950s (25 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp). In Staib Street, Maboneng is another image of Mandela boxing, a 40m-high mural by Freddy Sam (aka Ricky Lee Gordon).

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Andrew Matabola

For boxing training, we recommend: ALAN TOWEEL Voted the WBF’s Trainer of the Year in 2012, trainer and manager Alan Toweel comes from South African boxing royalty – the Toweel family have been ‘ring’ leaders since the 1920s, and can lay claim to several national, international and Olympic boxing victories. Alan, who trains current WBF light welterweight champ Zolani ‘Untouchable’ Marali and up-and-coming star Tumelo Pedi, also offers individual and group boxing training sessions at his home gym in Linden – where you can work up a sweat surrounded by photographs and posters of the world’s international boxing greats. – Nechama BrodieQalantoweelboxing.co.za ANDREW MATABOLA Andrew Matabola started boxing at the age of 12 and at 33 became the South African WBC champion (featherweight division), holding the title for four years. His mild manner belies the mastery in his hands and the power of that left hook that brought him 21 wins. Trained in sports management he left the ring for a career in boxercise, combining fitness training with the demands of boxing – stamina, strength and smarts. Part of Team Castellan Boxing Gym in Highlands North, he favours training kids from seven years up, ‘to build confidence, fitness and self-respect’. – Laurice TaitzQwww. teamcastellan.com.

GEORGE KHOSI George Khosi’s Hillbrow Boxing Club has become one of Joburg’s most legendary training venues. His own professional boxing career was cut short 17 years ago when he was brutally attacked and robbed at his home in Yeoville.

Several years later, George erected a boxing ring in an abandoned petrol station in Hillbrow and started training local kids. The gym recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and now draws a diverse range of aspiring professionals, amateurs and people like me who are just looking for a fun workout. Sessions at the Hillbrow Boxing Club take place from 07:00–08:00 every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

On Tuesdays and Thursdays George offers rooftop workouts in trendy Maboneng, where the sun turns the windows of Jozi’s skyscrapers flame-orange while you train. – Heather MasonQ HillbrowBoxingClub. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics 24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close well before 22:00. Most restaurants, galleries and museums are closed on Mondays. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville and Greenside are traditionally latenight haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry.

Visit the SAB World of Beer in Newtown for a tour of the history of beer-making through the ages (Gerard Sekoto St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 836 4900, www.worldofbeer.co.za).

BANKING AND MONEY CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units.

BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. ATMs are widely available. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www. absa.co.za), FNB – First National Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za).

VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% is levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Joburg nightscape

Darren M. Smith, Smart R Media

NEED TO KNOW DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchairfriendly. See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa and is subject to occasional shortages. Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky threepronged plugs used locally.

POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC), a liberation movement that became a political party after fighting against apartheid and for a non-racial democracy. The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament. The current president is Jacob Zuma.

SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. You might find that some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’ as Zimbabwe’s capital falls in the same time zone. There is no daylight saving time.

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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Joburg Basics CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer stretching from November to March and milder temperatures setting in from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Joburgers feel the cold quite intensely because homes and hospitality establishments generally are not designed with adequate insulation and winter weather in mind. Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11.

Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones.

CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn. co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www.

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius

telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband. co.za). Check the website regularly because costs change frequently. All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol stations and online.

RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

INTERNET ACCESS

More and more cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wireless. Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibreoptic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card.

MILKY WAY INTERNET CAFÉ Offers public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03, The Zone, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00.

MEDIA South Africa has a free press. The country was ranked 52nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2013 press freedom index. There are many local and na-

The hadeda ibis, a common Joburg sight

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Darren M. Smith

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics CRIME AND SAFETY

Tabloid newspaper posters from Laurence Hamburger’s Frozen Chicken Train Wreck (Chopped Liver Press and Ditto Press)

tional newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. Read Business Day (www.bdlive. co.za), Daily Maverick (www.dailymaverick.co.za), Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za) or Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co. za). For the raciest headlines, read The Daily Sun. Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9). SABC (www.sabc.co.za) is the public broadcaster, and e.TV and eNCA (www.etv.co.za and www.enca.com) are free-to-air channels.

MEDICAL CARE Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock.

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST This practice offers emergency medical and dental care.

Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366.

It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7.

MAYS CHEMIST A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00– 21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

MORNINGSIDE DISPENSARY An after-hours pharmacy.QThe Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588, scripts@morningsidedispensary.co.za. Open Mon–Sat 08:30–21:00, Sun 09:00–21:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL A level-1 trauma centre that caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. Open 24/7. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Joburg has a poor reputation for safety, and the truth about it is a shifting reality. A lot of opportunistic crime takes place in dense city and suburban neighbourhoods, where homes are targeted. You’ll notice the ubiquitous guard huts, electric fencing and privatesecurity patrol cars in the wealthier northern suburbs, and the razor wire in less affluent areas. Our advice is to be aware rather than paranoid. As in any other modern metropolis, you need to use your head, know where you’re going, and not flash your cash or valuables around. Consult a local to get a head’s up, but walk away if they’re the type to tell you that the whole city is a no-go area – you have just chosen the wrong local.

When you plan your first walk around the inner-city, consider a tour with one of the many knowledgeable guides who offer them, or a City Sightseeing Red Bus hop-on, hop-off tour to get the lay of the land (see Sightseeing: City Tours).

EMERGENCY NUMBERS POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services

SAFETY TIPS If you’re staying in a hotel, lock up valuables in the room or hotel safe When driving, always keep valuables in the boot of the car rather than on the passenger seat. Keep the windows up and the doors locked Don’t leave valuable items visible in a parked car Don’t stroll down a street talking on your cellphone Pay attention to what is going on around you Don’t show off expensive jewellery, watches or cameras Never accept help from strangers at an ATM Opt for using an ATM inside a bank or mall Areas such as Alexandra, Hillbrow, Yeoville and Joubert Park should only be visited with a tour guide Try to follow main routes when travelling and stay in well-lit areas at night. Don’t walk on your own after dark Watch out for pickpockets, especially when you are part of a large crowd Hitch-hiking is dangerous. Do not pick up strangers or accept rides from people you don’t know February – April 2015

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Joburg Basics NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7.

THE SMILE FACTORY For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786.

QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS South Africa has 12 public holidays. No matter how solemn their intention, they are regarded by most as shoppingextravaganza days. Most big malls are open on all public holidays (see Shopping). Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

January 1 March 21 April 3 April 6 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

POSTAGE The South African Post Office is not well regarded after a protracted recent strike, so don’t expect postcards or parcels to arrive timeously. If you are mailing parcels using ‘surface mail’ (that is, by ship, the cheapest option), be aware that they may take up to three months to arrive. Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www. postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a South African Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo airport (Terminal A1 International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00), useful for sending any excess baggage home.

SOUTH AFRICANISMS South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swazi, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe. While English is the lingua franca, cultural diversity has created a South African language of its own.

Handy words include: Aweh Awesome Bakkie Pick-up truck Boerewors Sausage of minced meat and spices Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994 Bro ​or Boet Brother, meaning friend Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European and African origin Dagga or zol Marijuana Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder Howzit How are you?

Indaba An important gathering or meeting Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans) Jissis, boet ‘Yeah, man’ – for example ‘Jissis, boet, I’m gonna smash those weights at the gym!’

Just now or Now-now Any time in the near future, from two minutes to many hours Lanie A boss or smarty-pants Lekker Tasty or cool Mahala Free of charge Monkeygland sauce A fruity, tangy meat dressing (there’s no monkey in it) Mzansi A Zulu word for South Africa Robot Traffic light Sawubona A greeting in Zulu Sharp! Great!

Shisa nyama A braai, often outside a butcher shop Sho’t left A nearby stop in taxi-commuter lingo Spaza shop An informal convenience store Tokoloshe A mischievous evil spirit Tsotsi Someone up to no good Walkie talkie Boiled, seasoned and grilled chicken feet Yebo Yes (in Zulu)

TIPPING

LOCAL PRICES

If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

Cappuccino R18 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Gautrain: O.R. Tambo to Sandton R135 Litre of petrol R11.5 Local beer (in a bar) R20

62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SANDTON MAP

CITY CENTRE MAP

Coming up MORE TO SEE ONLINE There is always more to tell you about Joburg than we can fit into print, which is why we recommend you head online for more content. At www.johanesburg.inyourpocket. com you’ll find all the latest reviews, a guide to the week’s best events and get to share your feedback about the places we have listed. You can also read all our exclusive online features. Among the most popular are:

NEW ON THE BLOCK Melville is set to take the dictum ‘re-use and recycle’ to new heights with the building of a unique retail park created from repurposed shipping containers. 27 Boxes will contain boutique stores and eateries, an amphitheatre for music performances, gallery spaces and a playground for the kids. Due to open in April (75 3rd Ave, www.27boxes.co.za). Maboneng Precinct gets a reboot (even if it didn’t need one) with its first neighbourhood park, Common Ground (2 Beacon Rd) and new dining and retail space, The Cosmopolitan, a renovated 19th-century hotel with a concert hall, exhibition space, shops and restaurants (cnr Albrecht and Commissioner Sts, www.thecosmopolitan.co.za). Also being welcomed to the neighbourhood is the long overdue Rafael’s Grocery (Cnr Betty and Fox Sts); restaurant, bookstore and performance space Busboys & Poets on Fox St; and The City Bar & Grill on Kruger St. Due to open from February (www.mabonengprecinct.com).

Street index Albertina Sisulu Rd A–H-4/5 Albrecht St G-4/5 Anderson St B–G/5 Auret St G-4/5 Barney Simon St B-4 Bertha St C-2/3 Bree St A–F-4 Carr St A–C-4 Central Rd A-4/5 Commissioner St C–H/4 De Beer St C-2/3 De Korte St B–D-2/3 Diagonal St C-4/5 Dolly Rathebe Rd A-4 Eloff St D-3/4/5 Empire Rd A–D-1 Enoch Sontonga Ave A-2 Ferreira St C-5 Fox St B–G-4 Gerard Sekoto St C-4/5 Gwigwi Mrwebi St A–C-4 Harrison St D-3/4/5 Henri St B-2/3 Henry Nxumalo St B-4 High St A-5 Hoofd St C–D-2 Hospital St D-2 Jan Smuts Ave B-1/2 Jeppe St B–F-4 John Page Dr H-4/5 Jorrissen St B-2 Joubert St D-1/2 Juta St B–D-2/3 Kerk St C–F-4 Kort St C-5

Kruger Rd G-4/5 Kruis St E-4/5 Lilian Rd A-4/5 Loveday St D-4 Mahlathini St A–B-4 Main Reef Rd A–B-5 Margaret Mcingana St C-5 Marshall St B–G/5 Melle St C-1/2/3 Mint Rd A-4/5 Miriam Makeba St C-4/5 Mooi St F-4/5 Nelson Mandela Bridge C-3 Ntemi Piliso St C–D-4/5 Polly St E-4/5 President St B–F-4 Pritchard St C–F-4 Queen Elizabeth Bridge C-3 Quinn St B-4/5 Rissik St D-2/3/4/5 Sauer St C-4/5 Siemert St F-3/4/5 Simmonds St C-2/3 and D-4/5 Sivewright Ave G-3 and F-4 Smal St E-5 Smit St B–D-3 and E-2 Staib St G-3/4 Station St B-2/3 Stiemens St C-2 Troye St E-4/5 Verwey St G-4 Von Brandis St D-4 and E-5 Wilhelmina St H-3/4 Wolmarans St C–E-3 Yale Rd B-2/3

66 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CHINESE JOBURG Our guide to the very best of Chinese Joburg, from dragons and dim sum in Cyrildene to bubble teas, Thai Chi and the best Peking duck.

INDIAN JOBURG Learn about the history of the city’s Indian community, enjoy our walk-yourself tour of the Indian quarter Fordsburg, and find out where to eat the best bunny chows.

HISTORIC PUBS Raising one’s glass has been part of a Joburg way of life since the gold rush. We went in search of Joburg’s oldest pubs.

JOBURG GRAFFITI Joburg is arguably the street art capital of Africa and almost every day a new mural appears, adding life and colour to the city’s many high walls. Here we round up some of the most beautiful street art worth seeking out.

TEEING OFF IN JOBURG: A GOLFER’S GUIDE Our list of Joburg’s must-visit courses and the top clubs that every golfer should have on his or her itinerary.

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com to put your advert here and reach visitors at more than 60 Joburg accommodation establishments and selected airport lounges. See www.johannesburg inyourpocket.com for a full list.

Our social-media reach is growing by the day. Find us on: facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket @JohannesburgIYP johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

YOUR SHO’T LEFT STARTS HERE AT THE VAAL

AT THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND

AT THE AVIATION MUSEUM

AT GOLD REEF CITY

The calm of watching wildlife at a waterhole at dusk .

The adrenalin pumping through your veins from a bungee jump.

The high-heeled upmarket shopping mall.

The gritty inner city and township vibe.

The cultural and heritage experiences that do it for you.

Gauteng has it and more. Visit gauteng.net

www.gauteng.net #GeePeeShotLeft