Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 5, May-Aug 2015 by Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg May - August 2015

Surprise package Newtown’s personality unwrapped

Joburg flavour

Top chefs on the menu

N°5 - R35 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Books

Graffiti city

Quick picks

What to eat, drink and do at a glance

What’s on 8 A round-up of the best events

Neighbourhood A-Z

Fête de la Musique, see p. 8

Find your way around

Arriving & getting around

Bram Lammers

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

Rooms to suit all budgets

Where to eat

Restaurants, cafés and coffee shops

Nightlife

Maps Neighbourhoods 15 Soweto 46 City Centre 64 Sandton 66 All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65

House music and other nocturnal delights

Sightseeing

41 Apartheid history 41 City centre 42 Meet your ancestors 43 Tours 43 Soweto 44 Newtown 47 Pretoria 48 Ekurhuleni 50

Shopping

How to spend your money

Grooming

Three close shaves

Sport & outdoors

Long walks worth taking

Joburg basics

Essential information for your stay

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2015

Foreword Even in winter Joburg’s pace shows no sign of slowing. In June Newtown comes to life with a massive live music festival, and in July with #TAF15, an art weekend that showcases the work of emerging artists in the electric setting of a former power station. The cultural calendar is jampacked, and the streets of Braamfontein and Maboneng throng with weekend and nightlife crowds looking for a taste of city life, with a gourmet burger or a spray can in one hand and a craft beer in the other. Worth looking forward to is Melville’s 27Boxes, a new shopping and lifestyle destination set to make the suburb as popular by day as it is by night. Our Hunting for Treasure shopping guide will take you to other unexpected places, while the roundup of the best chefs has enough flavour to please any palate. Get out on the streets, with Johannesburg In Your Pocket, and discover the seam of gold that has run through this city since it was just a dusty patch to which the world’s fortune-seekers were attracted in the late 1880s. You won’t be disappointed.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com. Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researcher Alyssa Vratsanos Contributors Carrie Adams, Nechama Brodie, Bongani Madondo, Anna Trapido Photography Audrey Anderson (cover artwork), I See A Different You, Justin Lee, Sudhir Misra, Cale Waddacor and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER STORY

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.

Our cover artwork is by Newtownbased artist Audrey Anderson (b. 1982), a University of Pretoria Fine Arts graduate who has exhibited nationally and internationally. In her work she seeks to transform ‘real life moments into nostalgia using graphic novel-styled illustrations’. Anderson gives life to the ‘curious nostalgia’ evoked by Newtown’s evolving city landscape and the idea of ‘The best fit or exit’. In any city we find our space or seek to escape it. See her work at http://audreyanderson.co.za.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket. Print run 10 000 copies, published February, May and September. ISSN 2311-3944

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4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Milan in Italy and Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will be rolling out the new inyourpocket.com over the next few months. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Books

‘Mr Moris’ by Mars

GRAFFITI CAPITAL Cale Waddacor’s interest in street art was piqued after he left school to study sound engineering. As a student in 2006, he spent time walking around the Joburg neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Newtown, photographing the writing on the walls. His website, www.graffitisouthafrica. com, emerged as a way to keep track of his rapidly expanding archive of graffiti photography, and a blog shared events and information, creating a document of a movement in the making. ‘People started to notice, they would send me photos, ask me to cover events.’ In 2013 his outline for a book found favour with a US–based publisher. Graffiti South Africa, launched earlier this year, is a 192-page photo documentary of the rise of graffiti art in South African cities. Graffiti first emerged on the Cape Flats and in Cape Town’s southern suburbs as part of the growth of hip-hop culture, moving to Joburg where, in 2015, the spray can rules. ‘Artists are unique to the city they live in,’ says Waddacor. ‘In Cape Town many of the graffiti artists would be content to paint a piece in three hours and then go for coffee. In Joburg you get people who spend three days creating incredibly detailed pieces.’ Joburg’s recent rise to top spot as South Africa’s graf-

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Cale Waddacor fiti capital has been brought about by the city’s ongoing transformation and, thankfully, a lax enforcement of rules. There is little political statement in most of the works you see here – more a focus on refining distinctive techniques. Letter-based graffiti displaying the most intricate detail vies with more representational, playful works. On the streets the names of leading local graffiti artists like Faith47, Rasty, Mars, Bias, Dreadr, Tapz, Myza420 and Zesta sit side by side with works by international artists like Shepard Fairey, Roa, Dal East and Remed, who have also been attracted to the city’s big walls. Waddacor talks about a new trend of painting in abandoned spaces, in tunnels and bridges. The rise of social media has meant that even the most hidden pieces can be shared instantly with a huge audience. ‘It’s become more of a treasure hunt,’ he says. • Graffiti South Africa, Schiffer Books. Available at selected bookstores. www.graffitisouthafrica.com/book. GRAFFITI NEED TO KNOW Two major annual festivals celebrate graffiti art: Back to the City (www.backtothecityfestival.com) and City of Gold (www.cityofgoldfestival.co.za). Walking Tour company Past Experiences specialises in graffiti tours (see p. 43).

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Quick picks

Hipster On the cheap

Entrance to the Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein is free and the lunches at its café, Olives and Plates (p. 9), are cheap and delicious. Choose from a regularly changing menu of hot and cold dishes from as little as R30.

Romantic

The award-winning Roots (p. 25) restaurant in the Cradle of Humankind offers superb weekend brunches and gourmet food-andwine pairings. Soak in the fresh rural air as you gaze over the rolling countryside.

High-end

The palm-fronted window seats at Run by a style blogger and the lead The Bannister singer of an indie band, Good Hotel Bar (p. 38) Luck Club (p. 28) is a casual panare the best place to Asian café-restaurant with a busy grab a craft beer while watching the streetside buzz. They also run the action on Braamfontein’s hippest vintage-chic café Wolves next door. street. The hotel also hosts regular underground gigs and art events.

The eclectic and accomplished tasting menus at Restaurant Mosaic (p. 24) near Pretoria are worth every penny, with the much celebrated head chef providing the finest of fine-dining experiences.

Now part of the Four Seasons group, the iconic Westcliff Hotel (p. 19) has never been in better shape, with a spa, fine-dining restaurant and gorgeous views over this most-treed city. It's a sensational spot for sundowners.

See the city from new angles on a ride with Skyview Helicopter Charters (p. 43). For a real VIP experience, book into one of their recommended countryside hotels and get picked up from your doorstep.

History buff

Drink

Visit Jazz Maniacs (p. 24) in the Soweto Hotel for upmarket yet traditional South African township cuisine, then drop into the visitor centre next door to learn about the history of the Freedom Charter, signed here in 1955.

Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, the Radium (p. 39) is a much-loved historic pub (some patrons have been here for decades) in an area that has seen better days. If those walls could speak...

A visit to the Apartheid Museum (p. 41) provides the most comprehensive and in-depth examination of the history of apartheid that you can find anywhere in South Africa. The bookshop is also excellent.

Unexpected

Eat

Tuck into Join the motley crew Cameroonian grilled of locals propping up fish, perfectly the bar at the cheap, rounded domes of grungy and Congolese fufu and other Central wonderfully random and West African dishes on a Zebra Inn (p. 38), culinary tour of the backyard cafés where the walls are covered in the and grills of Yeoville with Dlala Nje taxidermy heads of close to 100 (p. 43). African animals.

Once the safe house of antiapartheid activists, The Hideout Bar (p. 38) in Maboneng is now the Curiocity Backpackers’ friendly bar. Only a shebeen could sell you lower-priced local beers. Great value for shoestring travellers. Feast on canapés and a glass (or bottle) of the finest Champagne at 54 on Bath Hotel's elegant Level Four Restaurant & Champagne Bar (p. 39). In fine weather you can sit out on the roof terrace.

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Neighbourgoods Market (p. 54) is a must-visit on any given Saturday. Come for the fashion, gourmet street food and iced cocktails, join the cool kids on the rooftop and stick around for the long after-party across the street. A real bargain bit of sightseeing this – pay just R15 and travel all the way to the top of Africa’s tallest building, the Carlton Centre (p. 42). The 50th-floor viewing deck has a panoramic view of the city. Mild winter days are perfect for picnics and romantic walks at the Botanical Gardens and Emmarentia Dam (p. 58). An oasis in the city, the rose garden is a popular wedding venue on weekends.

Shop for traditional artefacts, tribal costumes and muti at Kwa Mai Mai Market, Joburg’s ‘place of healers’. Take a Zulu-speaker with you. MainStreetWalks (p. 52) offer great tours of this most exotic of market places. May – August 2015

What’s On CONCERTS May 9

Robin Schulz. German DJ. Nasrec, soundoflightSA.co.za

Neon Run. A neon-lit 5km night run with a dance music after-party. Wanderers Stadium, www.neonrun.co.za

McCoy Mrubata. Jazz saxophonist. Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre

Unrest, Standard Bank Gallery

EXHIBITIONS

June 6

DSTV Delicious Festival. A gourmet food festival with live music. Waterfall Estate, www.deliciousfestival.com

15, 16

Kenny Rogers. Carnival City

One Republic. Coca-Cola Dome

Marcus Wyatt. Jazz trumpeter. Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre

Fête de la Musique. Huge live music event across Newtown fetedelamusiquejhb, www.ifas.org.za

Day of the Giants. Musical tribute to French composer Pierre Boulez, www. ifas.org.za

July 10, 11

Joan Armatrading. Teatro at Montecasino

Ben Howard. Zoo Lake, Prince of Wales Dr, Parkwood SeedExperiences

August Johnny Clegg. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens

Regular events Tue 19:30

Johnny Walker Red Hot Jazz Nights. Bassline

Wed and Thu 20:00

Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra. Second season from 21.05–11.06 and third from 13.08–03.09. Linder Auditorium, www.jpo.co.za

Thu 19:00

Light up the Mic. Free live-music night with local acts. The Sheds@1Fox

Fri 13:00

Friday Lunch Hour Classical Concerts. Auto & General Theatre on the Square

For more on the best jazz clubs and live music see p. 39 8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

01.05 FRIDAY – 16.05 SATURDAY LISA BRICE: WELL WORN Brice‘s newest work features a cast of female protagonists absorbed in looking and being looked at. Their mirror images, reminiscent of selfies, capture the women in private spaces and their poses suggest not only vanity but loathing, defiance, scrutiny and reinvention.QGoodman Gallery. UNTIL 28.05 THURSDAY THE LAST SUPPER A series of performances that reference the painting of The Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci. Performances on May 10, 17, 24, 31 at 12:00 and May 7, 14, 21, 28 at 19:30.QG-4, GoetheOnMain, 245 Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, see www.goethe.de/johannesburg for details. 01.05 FRIDAY – 20.06 SATURDAY UNREST Twin brothers Hasan and Husain Essop use a rotating tripod and digital ‘stitching’ technique to insert themselves numerous times into the scenes they construct, wittily toying with the prevalent generalisations of Muslim identities. For this exhibition they turned their lens on their home city, Cape Town, capturing the complex narratives found in places such as the poverty-stricken Cape Flats and the scenic Sea Point promenade.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. 01.05 FRIDAY – 28.06 SUNDAY NOT X CHRIS SAUNDERS A cross-cultural collaboration between South African photographer Chris Saunders and New York fashion designer Jenny Lai. Aided by Joburg-based designers, performance artists and puppet makers, they portray what makes South African fashion unique.QG-4, MOAD, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, www.moadjhb.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Thu until 23:00. Closed Mon. 01.05 FRIDAY – 20.07 MONDAY PENNY SIOPIS: TIME AND AGAIN Ever since Penny Siopis burst onto the scene in the 1980s she has made innovative use of myriad materials, from oil johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On paint and glue to found objects and time-ravaged home movies, to draw on the recurring themes of history, sexuality, race, memory, estrangement and violence. An exciting retrospective of a 30-year career.QWits Art Museum. 07.05 THURSDAY – 27.06 SATURDAY DEBORAH BELL One of South Africa’s most acclaimed artists, Bell’s works can be found in such prestigious collections as New York’s MoMA and the Smithsonian. Her works range from small intimate pieces to magnificent towering sculptures that are often described as possessing ‘spiritual’ or ‘transcendental’ properties.QEverard Read. 09.05 SATURDAY – 10.05 SUNDAY WINTER SCULPTURE FAIR 2015 Held in the magnificent grounds of the Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind, this popular event promises contemporary art, fine wine and great food. Advanced booking recommended.Q24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, www.wintersculpturefair.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Tickets R150. 14.05 THURSDAY – 04.07 SATURDAY TAMLIN BLAKE: REVELATION Inspired by the 14th-century Apocalypse Tapestry of Angers, the South African artist uses recycled and hand-spun newspaper to form exquisite tapestries.QCirca Gallery. 15.05 FRIDAY – 20.06 SATURDAY MOTSWAKO: THE BUILDING OF DREAMS This photographic and documentary exhibition by residents and former residents of Sophiatown commemorates the 60th anniversary of the apartheid forced removals that ended the once vibrant life of this suburb.QSophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre. Open 10:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–13:00, also by appointment. Closed Fri, Sun. 23.05 SATURDAY – 20.06 SATURDAY POST-AFRICAN FUTURES Group exhibition questioning the art world label ‘AfroFuturism’. The exhibition includes performance, video installations and screenings from across the continent, illustrating the wide variety of digital art in Africa.QGoodman Gallery. 26.05 TUESDAY – 28.05 THURSDAY LES IS MORE A fine art and photography auction to support the family of the late Lesley Perkes, a Joburg artist and activist whose tireless work to encourage investment in public art helped change many Joburg streets for the better. QGallery MOMO, artatwork.co.za. Previews 26.05– 27.05, auction 28.05. 11.06 THURSDAY – 04.07 SATURDAY RENÉY WARRINGTON: FAMILY AFFAIR VOL. II A very personal tribute by the artist to her family, and others like hers, who have fought with love and grace to care facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Not X Chris Saunders, MOAD

for severely disabled children. The exhibition is a mixture of photography, video and text taken from family albums and the artist’s own published writings.QCirca Gallery. 09.07 THURSDAY – 25.07 SATURDAY NICOLA TAYLOR This Joburg-based artist works across a variety of media including paint, print, etchings, installation and stop frame animation. The subject of her art is nature and how humans interact with it.QEverard Read. 30.07 THURSDAY – 22.08 SATURDAY RICKY BURNETT & MICHAEL MEYERSFELD A collaboration between two Joburg-based artists: award-winning photographer Michael Meyersfeld and painter, critic, curator and art teacher Ricky Burnett. QEverard Read. WITS ART MUSEUM Part of the University of the Witwatersrand, WAM is home to an extraordinary collection of contemporary and historic African art and offers a dynamic programme of events and exhibitions. Curator or artist talks and walkabouts happen every second and fourth Saturday of the month at 12:00 and walkabouts aimed at families usually take place on the third Saturday of the month at 12:00. The museum also has an excellent café, Olives and Plates, serving light meals and refreshments at student-friendly prices. In the coming months WAM hosts three major exhibitions: a Penny Siopis retrospective (until 20.07), an exhibition dedicated to the late sculptor Peter Schütz (17.06–16.08) and Beadwork and the Body, a historical and contemporary survey of South African beadwork (05.08– 27.09).QB-2, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

For gallery addresses, see p. 11. For an updated events guide to Joburg, go to iyp.me/70561ch and sign up for our free weekly What’s On newsletter May – August 2015

What’s On 16–19.07: ART IN THE CITY

CINEMA 08.05 FRIDAY – 17.05 SUNDAY EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL 2015 Under the tagline A Woman’s World, this year’s festival celebrates women in film with a lineup of 12 acclaimed foreign language features including Polish Oscar winner Ida and the Dardenne brothers’ Two Days, One Night. QCinema Nouveau, www.cinemanouveau.co.za. 28.05 THURSDAY – 03.06 WEDNESDAY LGBTI FILM FESTIVAL Curated by local queer activist and artist Dean Hutton and The Bioscope co-founder Darryl Els, this festival provides a diverse reflection of queer life around the world through the latest feature, documentary and short films. There is also a special focus on early gay and lesbian cinema.QThe Bioscope, www.thebioscope.co.za.

Joburg has started to attract global attention as an emerging art city, and last year’s Turbine Art Fair even got special mention in the Wall Street Journal. Now in its third year this contemporary art fair has become a landmark event attracting thousands to the city over three wintery days. Take a historic venue (the Turbine Hall in Newtown – for more on Newtown see p. 47), add The Forum Company (headed by the innovative Glynis Hyslop, who lives to create memorable events) and an awesome and wide-ranging selection of contemporary art and you get one of the city's best annual events. The fair showcases emerging artists and attracts a hip crowd as much for the art as for The Forum Company’s imaginative gourmet fare and a fun social occasion in a fabulous urban setting. Expect up to 50 gallery stands with the focus on affordable and investment-worthy art. The average artwork price is R4 000, the ceiling price R40 000. Look out for Fresh Produce, a selection of works by emerging South African artists from five provinces curated by Mashumi Art Projects, and a graduate painting exhibition. There will also be collaboration with the city’s major galleries and an exhibition of pieces drawn from Joburg Art Gallery’s extensive and precious archive. The kids will be delighted to attend and may even refuse to leave the Staedtler art corner. Who knows, this year’s scribble might be next year’s precious collectable. Qwww.turbineartfair.co.za #TAF15 Preview evening by invitation only Thu 18:00-22:00, Fri 10:00–20:00 Open to the public. Tapas and live music from 17:00. Sat 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. EVENT TICKETS Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web. Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www. webtickets.co.za. Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, www. ticketpros.co.za. 10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

For Hollywood blockbusters there is Nu Metro (tel. 0861 24 63 62, www.numetro.co.za) or Ster Kinekor (tel. 082 167 89, www.sterkinekor.com). For a luxury experience try Ster Kinekor’s Cine Prestige at the Zone@Rosebank or Sandton City. For indie and arthouse films there is Cinema Nouveau in Rosebank Mall (also operated by Ster Kinekor) and the tiny independent cinema The Bioscope in Maboneng (G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za).

FOOD AND SHOPPING 09.05 SATURDAY JOZI CRAFT BEER FEST 2015 Joburg‘s biggest craft beer festival. Try some of the 100 different craft brews from across the country. There will also be gourmet food trucks, live entertainment and a kids area. Booking recommended.QMarks Park, Judith Rd, Emmarentia, jozicraftbeerfest.co.za. From 10:00–19:00. Tickets R100–R120.

JOBURG ART SCENE Joburg’s Gallery Row runs along Jan Smuts Avenue, between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues in Parkwood. Start at Circa Gallery and Everard Read (cnr Jellicoe Ave) for impressive collections and temporary exhibitions from established and emerging artists. Take a turn onto 52 7th Avenue to Gallery MOMO for African contemporary art. Then head back to Jan Smuts Avenue (cnr Chester Rd) to see roadside bead art and the prestigious Goodman Gallery. Along this stretch you’ll find many independent galleries including the excellent Res Gallery known for provocative photographic exhibits, Lizamore & Associates specialising in fine art, the David Krut Bookstore for books that resemble works of art (www.davidkrutprojects.com), and Kim Sacks Gallery for ceramics and African artefacts (www.kimsacks.com). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

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14.05 THURSDAY – 15.05 FRIDAY THE WHISKY LIVE SHOWROOM A luxurious event for the sophisticated set, taking place in one of Pretoria’s coolest downtown spaces. Sample some of the world’s finest whiskies and cigars.Q012 Central, 385 Helen Joseph St (formerly Church St), Pretoria, www. whiskylivefestival.co.za.

CIRCA GALLERY | EVERARD READQ2–6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery. co.za, www.everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY MOMOQ52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERYQ163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATESQ155 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www.lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RES GALLERYQ142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 4054, www.resgallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–14:30. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

28.05 THURSDAY – 29.05 FRIDAY HOUSE AND LEISURE NIGHT MARKET From fashion to homeware, this is one of Joburg’s most eagerly anticipated shopping events. Find over 60 vendors selling some of the most desirable Made In South Africa items around, plus gourmet food and wine from the country’s top vineyards.QRosebank Mall Rooftop, Baker St, Rosebank, www.houseandleisure.co.za. Open Thu 17:30–21:30, Fri 16:30–21:00. Tickets R55. 04.07 SATURDAY GEEKFEST 2015 The biggest event of the year for Joburg’s geeks and gamers. There’s a street market selling all kinds of comics, games and accessories, as well as a beer garden, quiz, robot wars, cosplay competitions, a zombie run and mediaeval martial arts demonstrations.QHuddle Park, Club St, Linksfield, www.geekfest.co.za. From 10:00 until late. Tickets from R80. 24.07 FRIDAY – 26.07 SUNDAY 2015 NATIONAL ANTIQUES FAIRE This annual event is sheer heaven for treasure hunters. The country’s biggest antiques fair covers the full spectrum of antiques, collectables and decorative arts and boasts special pavilions targeted at collectors of art, books, stamps, military, sporting and decor items.QSandton Convention Centre, www.naada.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00. Tickets R100. May – August 2015

What’s On BALLET & DANCE

THEATRE 01.05 WEDNESDAY – 24.05 SUNDAY PEOPLE ARE LIVING THERE The poor uneducated residents of a dilapidated boarding house are reluctantly brought together to celebrate their landlady‘s birthday in this melancholy study of loneliness and frustration by South Africa‘s most celebrated playwright, Athol Fugard.QMarket Theatre. Tickets R90.

Don Quixote by Joburg Ballet, Joburg Theatre

06.05 WEDNESDAY – 15.05 FRIDAY ST PETERSBURG BALLET The Russian ballet company perform three full classical ballets with orchestral accompaniment: Giselle (6.05– 8.05), Don Quixote (9.05–10.05) and Swan Lake (12.05– 15.05).QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R290–R690. 04.06 THURSDAY – 14.06 SUNDAY THE SPARTACUS OF AFRICA An epic production with 100 dancers including Washington Ballet’s Brooklyn Mack, Casey Swales and Andile Ndlovu in the role of Spartacus, accompanied by a full symphony orchestra. The famous story of the Roman Empire slave uprising is reconfigured into an African setting, complete with incredible costumes and lavish scenery.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R150–R375. 17.06 WEDNESDAY – 21.06 SUNDAY ROMEO & JULIETTE The Grand Théâtre de Genève presents this contemporary version of the famous ballet, eschewing opulent costumes and sets in favour of a powerful, modernist vision of the timeless tragedy.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R180–R350. 24.08 MONDAY – 13.09 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET South Africa’s most inspiring ballet company stage two concurrent productions – a classical performance of Don Quixote, and a brand-new South African ballet, Zulu Lulu, a reinterpretation of Coppélia with neoclassical choreography and an African setting.QJoburg Theatre. 03.09 THURSDAY – 13.09 SUNDAY ALVIN AILEY AMERICAN DANCE THEATRE The world’s most successful modern dance company brings to the stage a thrilling blend of theatricality, energy, sensuality and raw power. Book your tickets now, this is one dance experience you do not want to miss. QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R100–R475. 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

01.05 TUESDAY – 16.05 SATURDAY SNOW GOOSE Based on Paul Gallico’s novella The Snow Goose: A Story of Dunkirk, this pared-down two-hander premiered in 2013 and has since won global critical acclaim. As World War II rages in Europe, a young girl and a reclusive artist become friends when they rescue an injured snow goose.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. 01.05 WEDNESDAY – 07.06 SUNDAY MORECAMBE Craig Urbani stars as Eric Morecambe in this touching musical comedy about the life of one of the UK’s most successful light entertainment stars.QPieter Toerien Theatre, Montecasino. Tickets R130–R165. 15.05 FRIDAY – 19.06 FRIDAY GORÉE An aspiring South African dancer and a Senegalese teacher explore their common but unique histories through music and dance. Based on Matsemela Manaka’s book set on Senegal’s Gorée Island.QSophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre. Showing Fri at 18:00, Sat at 20:00, Sun at 15:00. 28.07 TUESDAY – 15.08 SATURDAY DOUBT A South African production of the gripping Pulitzer Prizewinning drama set in a 1960s Catholic school. A suspicious nun accuses a priest of molesting a student, setting in motion a sequence of events that cause all involved to question themselves and their faith.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R150.

MUSICAL THEATRE Until 17.05

Pythonesque. Pieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino

07.05– 16.05

Let’s Get It On: The Life and Music of Marvin Gaye. Joburg Theatre

12.06– 09.08

Little Shop of Horrors. Pieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino

10.07– 16.08

Janice Honeyman’s Sister Act: The Musical. Joburg Theatre

14.07– 09.08

Lord of the Dance: Dangerous Games. Teatro at Montecasino johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 29.05 FRIDAY – 28.06 SUNDAY TREVOR NOAH’S LOST IN TRANSLATION South Africa’s most successful comedy export returns to the motherland with his latest stand-up show.QTeatro at Montecasino. Fri, Sat, Sun only.

Trevor Noah, Teatro at Montecasino

30.05 SATURDAY BLACKS ONLY COMEDY SHOW The inimitable David Kau returns as MC to one of the most popular stand-up events, and is joined by some of South Africa’s funniest comedians.QEmperor’s Palace.

COMEDY

BOOK EVENTS

South Africans find humour in even the most frustrating moments and Joburg has more than its fair share of great comedians. Comedy clubs worth checking out include improv crew Jittery Citizens at the Market Theatre in Newtown (last Sun of the month at 15:15), Parkers Comedy & Jive in Montecasino (tel. +27 11 511 0082, www.parkerscomedy.com. Open Wed–Sat from 20:00) and The Box, a weekly comedy night (Sun at 19:30) at the P.O.P. Art Theatre in Maboneng.

23.05 SATURDAY KINGSMEAD BOOK FAIR A fun programme including writers’ talks on a wide range of topics with more than 70 participating authors and journalists, storytelling for kids and plenty of books on sale. QKingsmead College, 132 Oxford Rd (entrance on Tottenham Ave), Melrose, www.kingsmead.co.za/bookfair.

23.05 SATURDAY NIK RABINOWITZ: WHAT THE EFF? Rabinowitz’s political satire is razor sharp. This new show is named after the Economic Freedom Fighters, the country’s newest, and most radical, political party.QThe Lyric at Gold Reef City.

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31.07 FRIDAY - 02.08 SUNDAY SOUTH AFRICAN BOOK FAIR Running under the tagline ‘Discover your bookself’, this debut festival has a bumper programme of book launches, signings, author interviews, discussions, poetry readings, literary workshops and a dedicated children’s zone.QTurbine Hall, Newtown, www.southafricanbookfair.co.za.

May – August 2015

What’s On VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za BASSLINE B-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za CARNIVAL CITY Casino and Entertainment World, cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www.carnivalcitycasino.co.za COCA-COLA DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www.coca-coladome.co.za EMPEROR'S PALACE 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www. joburgtheatre.com LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za LYRIC THEATRE Gold Reef City Casino and Entertainment Complex, Northern Park Way, Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www.montecasino. co.za NASREC Cnr Nasrec and Rand Show Rds, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 494 1920, www.expocentre.co.za NATIONAL CHILDREN'S THEATRE 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, www. nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za PEOPLE’S THEATRE C-2 Cnr Loveday and Hoofd Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1563, www. peoplestheatre.co.za P.O.P. ART THEATRE G-4 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www.popartcentre.co.za SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE Maude St, Sandton Central, Tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE AND CULTURAL CENTRE 73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271, www.sophiatown.net TURBINE HALL C-4 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 3888, www.theforum.co.za WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS Malcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org WANDERERS STADIUM 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, www.wanderers.co.za

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The Art of the Brick, Rosebank

FAMILY FUN 01.05 FRIDAY – 02.08 SUNDAY THE ART OF THE BRICK The 75 sculptures on display were all made by Nathan Sawaya using more than one million Lego bricks and recreating famous paintings such as Edvard Munch’s The Scream and a six-metre T-Rex skeleton. The exhibition also includes a Lego building zone, gaming area and other fun activities. QThe Zone @ Rosebank, www.theartofthebrick.co.za. Tickets R145, R95 for kids under 18. 08.06 MONDAY – 19.07 SUNDAY OLIVER TWIST Based on the Dickens novel, this production is back by popular demand.QNational Children’s Theatre. Mon–Sat 10:30 and 14:30. Tickets R40 for children, R50 for adults. 26.06 FRIDAY – 05.07 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE More than 50 classic and contemporary Disney characters take to the ice for the Let’s Celebrate! show. The partythemed spectacle includes a Disney Princess Valentine’s Royal Ball and Jack Skellington’s Halloween party.QCocaCola Dome. Tickets R150–R400 (weekends), R100–R300 (weekdays). 20.06 SATURDAY – 08.08 SATURDAY ICE AGE A 3 000m² interactive and educational exhibition which includes 45 moving, life-size creatures of the Ice Age such as sabretooth tigers and wooly mammoths. There are also interactive games and a virtual aquarium.QSandton Convention Centre, theiceage.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–20:00. Tickets children R99, adults R145, and free for children under 83cm tall. Family package (2 adults, 2 kids) R435. SHREK JUNIOR An irreverent and fun musical for the whole family, based on the popular film character. June-August. Contact theatre for dates.QPeople’s Theatre. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Neighbourhood A-Z ALEX Jam-packed with history and people, this is where Sowetans go for a ‘real township experience’. BRAAMFONTEIN If you’re looking for Joburg’s uber cool party central you’ll find it in ‘Braam’, filled with students, fixie-bike hipster cyclists, gourmet coffee and plenty of limited edition brands. CHINATOWNS You’ll find a few blocks that are historic First (Old) Chinatown in the inner-city, and its bigger and brasher rival, New Chinatown, in Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene. FORDSBURG Bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore, this is the heart of Indian Joburg. HYDE PARK Home to the city’s swankiest shopping centre and the Porsche Cayenne-driving, artisanal-food-buying, cappuccino-sipping, manicured Joburg set. MABONENG An inner-city lifestyle playground constantly in a state of reinvention, attracting the fashionably alternative crowd. NORWOOD Visit Grant Avenue, the neighbourhood’s main strip, for an eclectic selection of places to eat, browse and hang out. A suburb on the rise. ROSEBANK, ILLOVO AND MELROSE Opt for great shopping at Rosebank and plenty of entertainment options for all ages, Illovo is a cool restaurant strip and Melrose Arch is a favourite for fans of sanitised street life and designer labeladded shopping. All text in InDesign SANDTON Corporate central and luxury hotel HQ with enough shopping to satisfy anyone from West African oil billionaires, government ministers and presidents of small countries to manicured socialites and tourists looking for a statue of Nelson Mandela (see map on p. 66).

Kalashnikovv Gallery, Braamfontein

HOTSPOTS CITY CENTRE From gold-mining history to street style, we show you what to see in the inner city (p. 42) MELVILLE An innovative shopping complex is changing the face of a suburb once known as a grungy student hangout (p. 52) NEWTOWN Meet the quirky people and personalities who make this neighbourhood tick (p. 47) SOWETO What to see and do in South Africa’s most famous township (p. 44) N1

FOURWAYS

m Nic Willia

BRYANSTON

SANDTON CENTRE

LINDEN

PARKHURST Rd

PARKVIEW

isulu Rd

MELVILLE AUCKLAND PARK 44 STANLEY AVE

OR TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

MELROSE ROSEBANK

Oxford

Jan Sm ts u Ave

GREENSIDE

ALEXANDRA

Ri ILLOVO

HYDE PARK

PARKTOWN NORTH

ina S

Distances calculated from city centre

Alb ert

vo n ia R d

Cradle of Humankind (28km) – NW Lanseria (47km) – NW Pretoria (59km) – NE Sun City (128km) – NW Kruger Park (495km) – E Durban (568km) – SE Cape Town (1,397km) – SW

R24

NEW CHINATOWN PARKTOWN BRAAMFONTEIN

FORDSBURG NEWTOWN MABONENG OLD CHINATOWN CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT M2

ghway Soweto Hi

SOWETO

Chris H

ani Rd Golden Highway

Old

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facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket joburg-map 21Apr.indd 1

JOBURG NEIGHBOURHOODS May – August 2014/04/22 12:08:21 2015 PM

Arriving & Getting Around

Shunting yard at Park Station

Joburg has a large public transport system, although it doesn’t reach nearly as many places as we would like and it is not always reliable. However, the city’s transport network is currently (and constantly) being upgraded and services like the Gautrain have proven particularly popular. Depending on the length of your stay most visitors will find that renting a car makes life easier – outside the city centre there are entire neighbourhoods that can be difficult to reach with public transport, and the situation becomes even more trying if you want to head into the countryside.

FLYING AND AIRPORTS Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African coun-

USEFUL APPS UBER The international taxi booking app Uber operates in Joburg. Download the app and register to find and order cabs anywhere in the city, at any time. * First-time users should use our special discount code worth R200 off your first ride (see p. 3) when downloading the app. ACSA The Airports Company South Africa (ACSA) operates all of the country’s major airports. Download the free app to receive live flight updates, weather bulletins, check-in online, find useful contact numbers and guide yourself around the airport by GPS. GAUTRAIN If you plan to use the Gautrain during your visit, this is a very useful accessory. Check up-to-date timetables, access route maps, view tariffs and track where your nearest Gautrain bus is (see box on p. 17). 16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Sudhir Misra

tries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious, modern, has loads of nice shops and is easy to get around. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B – which merge after you have passed through the security checkpoints. The check-in for domestic and South African Airways (SAA) flights is at Terminal B. For security purposes have your bags safely locked or wrapped. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, a national hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www. acsa.co.za. Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis (+27 86 124 3243, www.jiata.co.za) start from R16 p/km. Follow the signs in the airport to the taxi booking office. LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za. Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles. AIRPORT PARKING AND SHUTTLE BUSES Pre-booked shuttle buses from both airports to Joburg destinations start at around R400 per person. Try EZ Shuttle (tel. 0861 397 488, +27 12 348 8040, www.ezshuttle.co.za) or Rhino Shuttles (tel. +27 11 793 2282, www.rhinoshuttles.co.za). For discount airport valet parking there is Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines. SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa. com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www. britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 0861 585 852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget) QTel. 0861 001 234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango. com. Safair (budget)QTel. +27 11 928 0000, www.safair. co.za. Fly Africa (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8101, flyafrica. com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww. travelstart.co.za.

GETTING AROUND DRIVING IN JOBURG Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the lefthand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system is in place (see www.nra.co.za for costs).

GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) is Joburg’s pride and joy. It links central Johannesburg with the main business districts of the north and beyond to Pretoria and O.R.Tambo International airport. Prices vary according to distance and time of day. Peak rates apply on weekdays between 06:00–08:30 and 15:30–18:00. GAUTRAIN GOLD CARD To use the Gautrain you must first buy a Gautrain Gold Card, available at all stations. Top up your card at the kiosks or self-service machines. You need a minimum of R20 loaded to use the card. The Gold Card can also be used on the Gautrain buses and for the Gautrain car park. Note you must make a return train journey to be eligible for the special discounted parking rates. GAUTRAIN ROUTES The Gautrain has three lines. The main line starts at Johannesburg Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro. The third line is a commuter service between Sandton and Rhodesfield via Marlboro. Trains run daily from 05:30–20:30 at intervals of 12–30 minutes. On weekdays the first train leaves from Sandton to the airport at 04:50 and the last train departs from the airport at 21:04.

CAR RENTAL Car rental companies are based at both airports, and most have drop-off points in Rosebank and Sandton near the Gautrain stations (check when you make your booking). Reservations for Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire can be made through Africarhire.QTel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire.com. Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Rent-A-Wreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun. The AA store provides touring maps, travel insurance, accessories and cross-border documentation.QShop G02 Benmore Gardens, cnr Grayston Dr and Benmore Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 4104.

GAUTRAIN BUSES Each Gautrain station is linked to a series of Gautrain buses using the same card. If you use the train within one hour of the bus, the bus fare is R6 (R1 off-peak), otherwise it costs R19 (R14 off-peak). On the most popular routes buses leave every 12–20mins, otherwise buses leave every 20–40mins. Buses generally run between 06:00 and 19:30 on weekdays only. Bus route maps and timetables can be found at each Gautrain station and online at www.gautrain.co.za. Buses can also be tracked using the Gautrain app or the Gautrain hotline on 0800 428 87246. Useful bus routes Sandton–Fourways via Montecasino (also available on weekends), Sandton–Rivonia, Rosebank–Melrose Arch, Rosebank–Hyde Park, Park Station–CBD (via Main Street Mining District and Carlton Centre).

BUSES The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Modelled on similar systems in Latin America, the Rea Vaya is part of the city’s Corridors of Freedom project and is gradually being expanded, with future routes planned to link the City Centre with Sandton Central and Alexandra township. Currently the Rea Vaya

runs between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. Single journey tickets and smartcards (which can be loaded with money for journeys), can usually be purchased inside the bus stops. Buses arrive every 10-20 minutes and generally run between 06:00–18:30.Qwww.reavaya.org.za. Useful routes The circular City Centre C–3 route passes

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May – August 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank

MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

many major tourist sights as well as Park Station. The C–5 and T–3 (westbound) from Park Station stop in Milpark near 44 Stanley (see p. 55). The Metrobus is the creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system, ferrying commuters from the suburbs to the City Centre and back. Only recommended for the most adventurous travellers. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St) where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information. The majority of buses depart in the early morning (06:00–09:30) and late afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Fares start at R10 and are paid directly to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked. Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow. MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters

PARK STATION Park Station in the City Centre is Joburg’s main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the station. An estimated one million people pass through the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport hub in southern Africa.

NAVIGATING THE CITY Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues. The names of major thoroughfares are undergoing renaming and these changes often do not keep pace with the erection of new street-name signs or with GPS devices. See map on p. 64 for details. 18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal. The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at the ranks as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using them at night or alone. Hand the fare to the driver – R5 to R10 for short journeys – in coins or small notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually the easiest way. Although using them can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers minibus taxis offer great insight into everyday South African life. TAXIS Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out. Except for outside hotels, there are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. The following taxi companies are generally reliable and run on meters: Orange CabsQTel. 0861 700 222, www. orangecab.co.za. Quick CabQTel. 0861 665 566, www. myquickcab.co.za. Smartphone users should download the Uber app and first-timers should use our discount code on p. 3. TUK-TUKS While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone, the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks do make travelling between suburbs easier. Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R35. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.Q+27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius, which can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.Q0861 743 742, www.sheshatuks.co.za. CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and the city is working to develop new bike lanes, already usable in Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. Plans are in place to extend these to Park Station, Ellis Park, Sandton and Alexandra. For the most upto-date information on cycle routes, go to www.juca.org. za. Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods such as Melville or Parkhurst are also great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide and don’t cross the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered manholes, whether on foot or bike. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Hyatt Regency, Rosebank

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of distinctive luxury hotel options. The newly opened hotel Four Seasons The Westcliff with its drop-dead gorgeous views over the urban forest that is Joburg is becoming the playground of the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. Among its top attractions are View, a fine dining hotspot, overseen by a Michelin-starred chef (see p. 25) and Flames, a contemporary grill restaurant with a wraparound patio from which to gasp at Joburg’s splendid sunsets. (67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www. fourseasons.com/johannesburg. 117 rooms). The Hyatt Regency’s cigar bar and lounge is popular for high-pow ered meetings. The business who’s who favour the hotel’s elegance and location steps away from the buzzing shop ping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www. johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms). Radisson Blu Sandton offers state-of-the-art connectivity and a superb health club (cnr Rivonia Rd and Daisy St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 245 8000, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-johan nesburg. 290 rooms), while it’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foy er of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www. intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms). Also to be found on Joburg’s so-called richest square mile, along Maude Street and with direct access to some of the most exclusive and discreet shopping to be found – at Legacy Corner Mall – are three of the Legacy’s luxury hotels, the Da Vinci Hotel & Suites with its distinctive and elegant monochromatic interior, the ornate Michelangelo and the impressively tall Michelangelo Towers with panoramic views that stretch as far as Magaliesburg (www.

BICYCLE TOURS, TUK-TUK TOURS, BACKPACKERS & OUR NEW "OUTDOOR RESTAURANT" tel: 011 936 3444 · lebo@sowetobackpackers.com www.sowetobackpackers.com · www.sowetobicycletours.com

JOHANNESBURG’S BEST GUESTHOUSES

ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A range of affordable accommodation options centrally located in and around the suburbs of Rosebank.

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May – August 2015

Where to stay

The Residence, Houghton Estate

legacyhotels.co.za, tel. tel. +27 11 245 4000).The flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch with its scented lobby and table set for lunch in the swimming pool is a treat (1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.african pride hotels.com. 118 rooms). For fans of quirky decor and a setting modeled on Joburg’s historic colonial architecture, The Winston is an elegantly romantic choice (6 Tottenham Ave, Melrose Estate, tel. +27 11 268 3140, www.thewinstonhotel.co.za). In Rosebank 54 on Bath feels more like an intimate and luxe boutique-ho tel and has a one-of-a-kind Champagne bar. (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www. tsogosunhotels. com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms). Previous World Luxury Hotel award winner The Palazzo Montecasino is an opulent celebrity hangout with a superb Clefs d’Or concierge (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, www. tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246 rooms). The premier airport hotel Intercontinental O.R. Tambo offers plush rooms and a spa pool that lets you float along with an exceptional view over the runways of Africa’s busiest airport (O.R. Tambo International Airport, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 961 5400, www.ihg.com, 138 rooms).

BOUTIQUE HOTELS The Residence caters to Champagne tastes. Choose between a Rolls-Royce or Mercedes-Benz Viano as your hotel shuttle and an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath (in addition to the indoor one) to wash away your cares while appreciating Joburg’s bird life (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, www.theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Also in Houghton Ten Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of Joburg’s older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide a perfect urban refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel.+27 11 853 2400 www.houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms). International dignitaries rub shoulders with the Champagneand-polo set in a lush garden retreat at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns.co.za. 40 suites.) Choose from an array of individually decorated suites at Ten Bompas and its restaurant, Winehouse, (see p. 25) for superb bistro dining (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

www.tenbompas.com. 10 suites). The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech.co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1907, and is a tasteful and precious bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms). For easy access to all Rosebank has to offer, Clico Boutique Hotel is an understated home away from home for business and leisure travellers (27 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, +tel. +27 11 252 3300, clico-boutique-hotel.co.za, 9 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS For a business hotel with a resort feel the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine (20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). The Radisson Blu Gautrain has a businesslike exterior that conceals its modern, stylish interiors and busy social life (cnr Rivonia Rd and West St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 286 1000, www.radissonblu.com/hotelsandtonjohannesburg. 216 rooms). The fashion pack hang out in the Austin Powersstyle lobby of the Crowne Plaza The Rosebank (cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www. therosebank.co.za. 318 rooms). At Protea Fire & Ice! in Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/ melrose. 197 rooms). The Maslow Hotel is a slick social and business hotspot, and offers a Serenitea high tea with a superb selection of the leafy stuff and macaroons to write home about (146 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.suninternational.com). Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 identical one-bedroom suites is a conference destination in the city with a 360-degree skyline view from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites). Thaba Ya Batswana Eco Hotel set in an exquisite nature reserve is an ideal getaway for mixing business with the great outdoors (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms). For golfing fans you can’t do better than The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort, a luxurious resort hotel 11km from Sandton Central with an adjoining 18-hole golf course and a spacious spa (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Ilali House, Johannesburg Guesthouses

ON A (STYLISH) BUDGET The vibrant Hotel Lamunu is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities for its lively atmosphere and brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures (C-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.lonrhohotels.com. 60 rooms). The Bannister Hotel is a hipster delight also in Braamfontein (C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. 31 rooms). The streets of Maboneng beckon from Twelve Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel (G-4, 286 Fox St, www.urbanhiphotels.com) or there is Garden Court Milpark (cnr Owl and Empire Rds, www.tsogosunhotels.com) with its cool Joburg-inspired interiors within walking distance of boutique shopping hub 44 Stanley, Joburg’s universities and Melville’s nightlife.

GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation options in the Rosebank area. See their booking website www.johannesburgguesthouses.co.za. Owner Liz Delmont of Liz at Lancaster is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has also thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms). In Melville traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas ticks ’authentic South African‘ boxes (66 6th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za. 14 rooms). Nearby is the tasteful Lucky Bean Guesthouse,

4-star luxury guest house. Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor. Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

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May – August 2015

Where to stay 15 MINS WITH BHEKI DUBE Bheki Dube describes himself as ‘born, bred and buttered in Joburg’. Twentysomething-year-old Dube is the force behind the inner-city’s first backpackers hostel, Curiocity, and Maboneng-based walking tour company MainStreetWalks. Ask about his influences and he’ll mention growing up in the city neighbourhood of Troyeville, in a 1930s building among artists, poets and filmmakers, bohemians and rebels. ‘They shaped how I relate to the city and to humanity as a whole.’ He attended the Market Photo Workshop, and while studying in 2010 worked at independent cinema The Bioscope, in what was then the start of one of the most successful city districts, Maboneng. ‘People were just beginning to engage with the city, a place of real neglect,’ he says, partly a response to the city pride inspired by World Cup 2010. Given the opportunity to run walking tours, MainStreetWalks developed a repertoire, offering art and justice tours to Constitution Hill, rooftop ‘picnics in the sky’, and art walks to see graffiti, street art and sculpture around the Maboneng precinct. In 2012 Dube travelled around the coastal city of Durban photographing the youth hostels he stayed in and the people he encountered. His experiences became the catalyst for opening Curiocity Backpackers in Maboneng. Today Curiocity is the beating heart of the neighbourhood, and if you meet Dube you’ll understand why. His creativity, keenness and genuine interest in the city ensures the space is ever-evolving, and being shaped by travellers’ needs. Curiocity offers artists residencies, accommodation in exchange for artwork, hosts live music events and exhibitions. The rise of the flashpacker – slightly older than the average backpacker but with a shared appetite for experiencing the world in the same way, albeit with a bigger budget and more tech devices – is an international trend that is shaping what Curiocity offers. ‘From a design point of view people want private spaces while still enjoying communal experiences.’ The plan is to extend the Curiocity brand across the continent. Dube calls Joburg the ‘misjudged’ city. The place is not one thing but a collision many things. He quotes a local poet and singer Jennifer Ferguson: ‘Joburg is a city of cruelty with even greater miracles of kindness.’ If you truly want to understand a person popular wisdom dictates you need to walk a mile in his shoes. It holds true of a place, and in this case it’s worth taking that walk with Dube by your side. 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers

sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip, in a quiet tree-lined street (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www.luckybeanguesthouse. co.za. 9 rooms). For contemporary cool, seek out Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www. motelmipichi.co.za. 6 rooms).

BACKPACKER HOSTELS If you are planning to overnight in Soweto, the celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is also a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beachstyle bar – you can almost smell the rum and coconut oil – and an open-air restaurant in the park that Lebo and team long ago transformed from a dump site to a safe and green haven for backpackers, and kids and neighbours from the surrounding community. Owner Lebo Pooe’s bicycle or tuktuk tours of Soweto (see p. 44) are a must-do (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds). If it’s happening in Maboneng – and it always is – Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado who also runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see p. 43). Curiocity hosts live-music events, has a popular bar and braai stand and also offers urban camping on the rooftops of the Maboneng precinct (G-4, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163, www. curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).

APARTMENT HOTELS The Capital Empire is a luxury apartment and hotel complex with spacious suites and a state-of-the-art conference centre (177 Empire Place, cnr Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, Sandton, tel. +27 11 911 5000, www.thecapital.co.za/ establishment/empire, 130 rooms). For proximity to O.R. Tambo International Airport and major shopping centres Eastgate and Bedford Centre The Nicol has one- to threebedroom apartments with all the mod cons needed for comfortable long-term stays (Cnr Skeen Blv and Nicol Rd, Bedfordview, tel. +27 11 455 0549, www.urbanhiphotels. com. 70 rooms). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

DW Eleven-13, Dunkeld West

LUNCHTIME LEGENDS Anna Trapido is the editor of ‘Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015’. She is also the author of ‘Hunger For Freedom, The Story of Food in the Life of Nelson Mandela’, and ‘To the Banqueting House: African Cuisine, An Epic Journey’. Flash-in-the-pan food fashions come and go but certain chefs have defined Joburg’s epicurean experience for decades. Here are my picks of Joburg’s best chefs and the ones to watch. LE SOUFFLÉ Gallic gastronomic icon Marc Guébert estimates that since his arrival in South Africa in 1972 he has whipped up at least 400 000 of his signature soufflés. First at the legendary Île de France, later at Bistro 277 and now at the appositely named Le Soufflé where classic French flair is the order of the day. He says, ‘I don’t believe in dumbing down or altering flavours for South African palates. My customers expect truth and authenticity so that is what I serve.’QPineslopes Shopping Centre, Fourways, tel. +27 11 465 4116, www. lesouffle.co.za. Open Tue–Thu 09:00–21:30, Fri, Sat 08:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–14:00, Mon 09:00–17:00. RRR. LBW BISTRO MICHEL Beaujolais-born restaurateur Michel Morand previously owned Joburg’s late, lamented palace of Francophone fine food, Auberge Michel. Bistro Michel opened in December facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

2014 and while it is more pared down than his previous restaurant, it is no less delicious. Expect great food, great wine, great service and the best people-watching potential in the city. Joburg’s elite love Mourand. You’ll find silken foie gras terrine with slivers of buttery brioche toast garnished with a glamorous array of politicians, tenderpreneurs and society belles.QBlubird Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. + 27 11 440 0769, www.bistromichel.co.za. Breakfast from 07:30, lunch 12:00 and dinner 18:00. Sun lunch only. RRR. ULBW THE LEOPARD Andrea Burgener cooks up witty and wonderful idiosyncratic eating experiences. First at Super Bon-Bon, later at Deluxe Diner and now at The Leopard, the chef’s personal style – simultaneously cool yet comforting, eco-friendly yet never preachy, international and yet also authentic – is unsurpassed. French and Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian flavours and African culinary classics. Her signature dish is steak tartare with Ethiopian accompaniments.Q63A, 4th Avenue, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50–R70, for pre-2006 wines, R25. B FIVE HUNDRED AT THE SAXON David Higgs has won more culinary awards than the rest of us have had hot dinners. He serves gloriously glamorous celebrations of the City of Gold. Choose a four- or six-course set dinner. The bill of fare changes regularly but combinations are always innovative, unusual and delicious. The chef is inspired by the South African flavour repertoire, which he often incorporates into his dishes. Meals end with chocoMay – August 2015

Where to eat CHEFS TO WATCH

The Leopard, Melville

late bonbons served on a gold-dusted stencil of the Joburg skyline. Delicious, opulent and utterly Joburg.QSaxon Hotel, 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. Reservations only. Open 18:30–24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RRRR. From R1 100. UL RISTORANTE RITROVO Giovanni Mazzone has been serving hearty, sundrenched southern Italian culinary classics to appreciative Pretoria diners since the early 1970s. For the past two decades he has been assisted in this task by his son, Fortunato. The restaurant is divided into three with an informal, family-friendly salumeria, a romantic, adult interior and a wine cellar-based private dining room much favoured by the rich and famous. Fortunato doubles as sommelier and resident operatic tenor too. Giovanni doesn’t sing but his celestial cassata Siciliana is a sweet signature dish deluxe. Q103 Club Ave, Waterkloof Heights Centre, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 460 5173, www.ritrovo.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00, Sun 11:30–14:00. Closed Mon. RRR. TULEBW LA MADELEINE Belgian chef Daniel Leusch has been cooking up a storm at La Madeleine since 1976. His food combines francophone flavour and whimsical inventiveness. There are no written menus as the charming chef comes to each table to describe the ever-changing but always delightful dishes. The recent introduction of a cheaper, familyfriendly Sunday lunch is a gourmet godsend for parents. Q122 Priory Rd, Lynnwood Ridge, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 361 3667, www.lamadeleine.co.za. Open for dinner from 19:00, Fri and Sun also for lunch from 12:00. Closed Mon. RRR–RRRR. Corkage R60. Champagne R120. TULB

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi

24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

DW ELEVEN-13 Chef Marthinus Ferreira’s bistronomy-style cooking is a relatively recent, relaxed yet stylish addition to the Gauteng food scene. Chef Ferreira occasionally plays with modern molecular techniques but his strength is classy comfort food. Menus change regularly but he consistently hits the spot with dishes such as duck breast with Jerusalem artichoke pureé, shallots, duck fat potatoes, and duck jus.QDunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts and Bompas Aves, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0663, www.dw1113.co.za. Open lunch 12:00–14:30 and dinner 18:30– 22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. Closed Mon. RRRR. Corkage R90. ULBW JAZZ MANIACS Chef Junior Molewa serves a delicious mélange of traditional South African fare in an upmarket, jazz-focused hot spot for cool people. Her mogodu (tripe) and dombolo dumplings with startlingly strong chakalaka relish are an education in the best of kasi (township) comfort cuisine. Be sure to sample her signature Kliptini cocktail and witty South African slanted bar menu which includes mini magwinya (also known as vetkoek) fritters. QSoweto Hotel, cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za. Open 06:30–11:00, 12:00–15:00, 18:30–23:00. RR. LE RESTAURANT MOSAIC Chef Chantel Dartnall is South Africa’s rising princess of posh nosh. She offers five- and eight-course tasting menus. Any meal at her restaurant (set inside a garish pastiche of a North African castle) is superpricey but worth every penny. Influences are eclectic and styles vary but Dartnall’s food is always delicate yet layered with clear flavours and high technical skill. Many find her plating pretty while others argue that it is overly fussed with. QOrient Boutique Hotel, Francolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein, tel. +27 12 371 2902, www.restaurantmosaic.com. Open Fri, Sat lunch and dinner, Sun lunch, Wed, Thu lunch and dinner group bookings only. Closed Mon, Tue. Lunch seating from 12:30–13:30, dinner seating from 19:00–20:00. RRRR. From R575 (five-course set menu). ULBW

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Based on average main course. No prices for cafés given.

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Where to eat

The View, Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff

HOTEL RESTAURANTS From five-star luxe to the local inn, Joburg’s hotels have restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets. ONE NINE ONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and photographs of jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant led by celebrity chef Andrew Atkinson (former MasterChef South Africa host) offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The three-course menu is seasonal with local ingredients fused with flavours influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to The Terrace cigar and wine bar for a nightcap (also see p. 39).QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:30–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch, dinner 12:30–22:00, closed Sun. RRRR. TLBW ROOTS You won’t get a skyline view here, but you will marvel at the sheer mass of land around you. Set in the Unesco protected Cradle of Humankind, you may even spot some game from the comfort of your table. Roots only offers set multicourse menus (five or six courses, wine pairings optional) and a set breakfast menu on weekdays. Booking is essential.QLetamo Game Estate, R540, Kromdraai, Cradle of Humankind, tel. +27 11 668 7000, www. forumhomini.com/rootsrestaurant. Open 07:00–23:30. RRR–RRRR. ULBW VIEW NEW The city’s newest fine-dining haunt, View at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff (see p. 19) offers a sleek, contemporary setting in which to enjoy a French-accented seasonal menu of four or five courses, with optional wine pairing. Chef Dirk Gieselmann, who brings with him years of Michelin-starred experience, seems to eschew celebrity status, more intent on his menu and the spectacular cliffside setting being billed as star attractions. Arrive early to admire the sunset or linger a while at the cocktail bar. QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6190, www.viewrestaurant.co.za. Dinner reservations only, 19:00–23:00. RRRR. From R950; five courses with wine pairing R1 950. LB facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TROYEVILLE HOTEL Enjoy tasty Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence and a fun night out at this authentic little neighbourhood hotel in dingy Troyeville. The place has major cred with local old lefties, artists and the literati, and its bookevent evenings usually sell out. Guarded parking at the rear entrance.QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (Cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel. co.za. Open 10:30–22:00. RR. UBEL WINEHOUSE A chic French-style bistro located at an award-winning boutique hotel. The menu has lots of variety and unfussy classics such as Vichyssoise and rabbit terrine all plated with style, and the venue often hosts top winemakers and garagistes.QTen Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0282, www.tenbompas.com. Open daily for breakfast 07:00–12:00. Mon-Sat lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner from 18:00. RR–RRR. UW While we visit many restaurants, we only write about the ones we like because our editorial space is too precious to waste on places that don’t make the grade. We do not charge for listings. Generally our visits are unannounced. If you don’t find what you’re looking for here, we have plenty more recommendations online. Visit www.johannesburg. inyourpocket.com. May – August 2015

Where to eat AFRICAN FOOD DISTRICT SIX EATERY Celebrating the friendly owner’s childhood in District Six, a vibrant Cape Town neighbourhood destroyed by apartheid, the food pays tribute to Cape Malay cuisine. Indian Ocean spices find their local expression in a small menu of traditional dishes such as bredie (stew), bobotie (curried minced meat baked with a rich savoury custard) and curries.Q42B Greenhill Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 7226. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:30. Closed Mon. RRR. Corkage R15. UEBS District Six Eatery, Emmarentia

ETHIOPIAN QUARTER Known informally as ‘Little Addis’ or ‘Little Ethiopia’, the city’s Ethiopian district is contained within a few buildings on Jeppe Street near the old Joburg Sun Hotel (now boarded up). They house a dizzying array of Ethiopian stores: restaurants, coffee houses, clothing and souvenir shops, barbers, music kiosks and plenty of posters and T-shirts bearing the image of the Emperor Hailie Selassie. This is a fascinating neighbourhood with great food and authentic coffee stops. For lunch head to Netsi’s on the top floor of the original Medical Arts Building, now renamed Haile Selassie (220 Jeppe St) where you can pile your plate of injera – a traditional sponge-like sour pancake – high with a selection of aromatic vegetable stews. For tours of this area, see African Secrets on p. 43.QE-4, Cnr Jeppe and Troye St, City Centre. ABISINYA Chef Amsale Debela is a political refugee who literally walked from Ethiopia to South Africa. Berbere spiceladen doro wat chicken stews with injera-fermented pancakes are her specialty.QCnr Langermann Dr and Queens St, Kensington, tel. +27 72 918 8824, www. abyssinia.co.za. Open 09:30–22:00. R–RR. N JAMES XVI ETHIOPIAN A tiny no-frills Ethiopian café in fashionable Maboneng selling traditional cuisine in huge portions. The menu is brief and the welcoming owner, James Wondeson, is always on hand to guide you through the day’s specials.QG-4, Maverick Corner, cnr Commissioner and Maritzburg Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 340 2020. Open 11:00–18:00. Closed Sun. R. NBL LITTLE ADDIS CAFÉ A little hole-in-the-wall-sized shrine to Ethiopian cuisine on Maboneng’s busiest street. Try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injera bread, giving you the chance to sample a variety of specialities, all made according to the owner’s family recipes.QG-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 683 8675, www. littleaddis.co.za. Open 12:30–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. NLBS 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

HOUSE OF BAOBAB Colourful venue with a youthful atmosphere and West African-inspired food. Make sure you try the refreshing non-alcoholic drink, bissap rouge hibiscus infusion, sold on the streets in many West African cities but seldom seen in South Africa.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts (Main Street Life), Maboneng, tel. +27 82 951 9859, www. mabonengprecinct.com. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. EBS KISMAYO The adventurous traveller will find this little Somali café in the scruffy Amal Centre in Mayfair – known as ‘Little Mogadishu’. Their specialty is espresso coffee served with a cardamom-rich sponge cake called ‘doolshe’ (derived from the Italian word ‘dolce’), a mix of East African traditions and Somalia’s Italian colonial past.QAmal Centre, cnr Somerset and Albertina Sisulu Rds, Mayfair. R. LA CAMEROUNAISE A francophone, West African backyard fish-grill hot spot. The whole fish is smoked before it is grilled and then served with French fries. This delicious dish is best eaten with your hands – beware, the unlabelled squeezy bottles on the tables aren’t mayonnaise, they’re scented hand lotion! One of the stops on Dlala Nje’s popular Yeoville tour (see p. 43).Q27 Rockey St, Yeoville, tel. +27 73 342 3937. Open from 12:00, fish served from 17:00. R. B MOYO This fun African-themed restaurant has two great Joburg locations. The Melrose Arch restaurant sits on a lively piazza and also has a cavernous interior set over many levels – there’s even a waterfall downstairs – making it ideal for big parties. Meanwhile the second branch has a lavishly decorated deck overlooking Zoo Lake and lots of space for kids to play. Both specialise in fun exotic items such as crocodile pie and mopani worms, as well as more straightforward African dishes, grilled meats, stews and sharing platters. Live African music, face-painting, a hand-washing ceremony and a great souvenir shop are also part of the fun.QThe High Street, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1477. Open 11:30–23:00. www.moyo.com. RR. ULEBW. Zoo Lake, 1 Prince of Wales Dr, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 0058. Open 08:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–23:00. RR. T6ULEBW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat STEAKHOUSES THE BULLRUN An oasis in the heart of the business district. The romantic tree-covered terrace is perfect for enjoying wine from the great selection, after polishing off a luscious steak.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, Tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun. co.za. Open12:00–22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. Corkage R50. RRR. LBSW SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL Fashionable downtown steakhouse serving a barbeque menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slowsmoked ribs and a pulled-pork sandwich that the critics are applauding.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395. Open Mon–Wed 11:30–21:30, Thu–Sat 11:30– 22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R30. LEBSW THE GRILLHOUSE This New York-style grillhouse is an institution. Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a contstant buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines. Reservations essential. Ask about their hotel shuttle service.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L

AMERICAN-STYLE BEEFCAKES Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular topless men, this camp burger bar is a popular gay hangout with saucy drag shows every night. The menu quips, ‘Best buns in town and the burgers aren’t bad either’, and we are not going to argue with that.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 5266, www.beefcakes.co.za. Open 12:00 until last guest. Closed Mon. LE BGR NEW Two Americans missed the taste of home so much they opened a burger joint. Located in a petrol station forecourt, the setting has the look of a stripped-down canteen. Service is fast and friendly and the burgers are retro-engineered Shake Shack-style. They even imported the same grill. Ground beef patties, no basting and basic toppings, plus shakes, fries and frozen custard.Q172 Jan Smuts Ave (Caltex Forecourt), Rosebank, tel. +27 72 368 2695, www.eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30. R. S ROCOMAMAS NEW Tasty ‘smash burgers’ with exceptional budget-priced toppings, among them saffron chili chutney, brinjal pickle and smoked mayo. Build your own burger in this sit-down fastfood joint with its lively atmosphere, rock soundtrack, craft beer on tap and friendly service.Q Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1139, rocomamas.com. Open Sun–Wed 09:00–22:00, Thu and Sat 09:00–23:00, Fri 09:00–24:00. BLS facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HOP ACROSS THE BORDER MAMA MEXICANA If American-style burgers are not your thing, visit two friends who spent years perfecting their nachos, burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas and enchiladas at their Sunday Market on Main stall. Luckily for you, they decided it was worth a full-time gig and opened a restaurant. Service tends to dip according to how busy they are. The prices are mild and spicy food is on request.QG-4, 264 Fox St (Arts on Main), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 1982. Open 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. Closed Mon. R.

BILTONG The ultimate South African snack, biltong is a spiced and cured meat typically made from beef or sometimes game such as kudu or springbok. One of South Africa’s most delicious culinary treasures, when it comes to cured meats, it doesn’t get much better than this. You can take Biltong plate, www.ceramic your biltong ‘wet’ (or ‘moist’), factory.co.za medium or dry (the chewiest variety). Each butcher makes his own according to timehonoured techniques and will slice it up for you according to your preference – some like it lean, others with the fat left on and thick or thinly sliced is also a matter of personal taste. Also look out for droëwors, a dried spiced beef sausage made using a similar technique. Biltong can be found pretty much everywhere, but we have selected Joburg’s more famous biltong specialists to visit: NORTHERN MEAT PURVEYORS BUTCHER 68 St Andrews St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 788 7712. Open 06:00– 18:30, Sat 08:00–16:00, Sun 08:00–13:00. SLOANE MEAT MARKET Sloane Park Shopping Centre, cnr Sloane St and William Nicol Dr, Bryanston. Open 07:00–18:00, Sun 07:00–15:00. BEST BILTONG & SPIT BRAAI SPECIALIST Shell Garage, 134 11th St, Benmore, tel. +27 11 783 2739. Open 08:30–19:00, Sat 08:30–13:00. Closed Sun. May – August 2015

Where to eat ASIAN DERRICK AVENUE, CYRILDENE There are dozens of great-value places to choose from in Joburg’s New Chinatown, but among the best are Fisherman’s Plate specialising in seafood (18 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 622 0480. Open 12:00–14:30, 17:30–21:00. Closed Mon), and Chinese Northern Foods which has a long menu of Chinese classics – highlights include the garlic eggplant and crispy chilli beef (20 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 72 030 9414. Open 12:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:30). There’s not much English spoken around these parts and the interiors may be a bit rough around the edges, but for an exotic and authentic experience, this neighbourhood is tops. R. Delta Café, Craighall Park

GARDENS AND COURTYARDS DELTA CAFÉ NEW This small café in a carefully converted old cottage looks out over the lush Delta Park. With stables on its doorstep, a jungle gym in the garden and a dedicated kids menu, this is an ideal hangout for families. The menu is filled with simple and light lunchtime favourites such as salads, tuna fishcakes, sandwiches and even boiled egg and soldiers. Q20 Malborough Rd, Craighall Park (entrance via garden centre), tel. +27 79 482 5286. Open 08:00–17:00. Closed Mon. RR. T6LB VOVO TELO NEW This courtyard café and bakery can be credited with raising the profile of the suburb of Norwood. Located in the The Factory on Grant it provides an excellent rest stop once you have browsed the cool selection of stores that surround it, including Smelt for hand-blown glass. Leave with a fresh loaf of sour dough rye or coconut bread.Q72 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 1398. www.vovotelo.co.za. Open 07:00–20:00. BS6 IL GIARDINO D’EGLI ULIVI An olive tree-filled courtyard is the setting for this casual yet elegant Italian bistro, perfect for family dining or a lazy afternoon.The menu is pizzas, pastas and salads, generously served and beautifully presented. Service slows on the busiest days. Live music Friday and Sunday.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4978, www.ilgiardino.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 11.30–17:00. Closed Mon. RRR. EB PAPUTZI’S An unpretentious place for lunch found in the back of a converted 1940s suburban home. Its rural feel, with fruit trees providing dappled shade and chickens clucking away in the background, is a far cry from the glitz and glamour of enclosed shopping malls. Don’t expect lightning service – just slow down and enjoy the generous portions of wholesome fare.Q69 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 9393. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. Closed Sun. R. B 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

GOOD LUCK CLUB NEW The sister establishment of the popular Wolves Café, this noisy little cafe-style joint is loved by the area’s many craft beer-drinking young trendsetters. The menu is a hipster take on Asian cuisine and is complemented by a sweets selection from the café next door.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3816, thegoodluckclub.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. RR. BW GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen are just a few of the delightful and delicate tasting dishes cooked up by chef Nick Scott. A good spot for vegetarians and fish-eaters. If you catch Scott on a quiet day (increasingly rare) he will improvise the menu. The setting is a pared-down Melville rooftop.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910, Great Eastern Food Bar. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00–23:00, Sun 13:00– 20:00. Closed Mon. RR. LB THE BLACKANESE SUSHI AND WINE BAR Flavours from African and Japanese cuisine fuse in delicious ways at this hip sushi spot. Bring a group and share one of the enormous sushi platters or excellent braaied fish with spicy rice. Great service and charming staff.QG4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455, www.theblackanese.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. Corkage R30. R. L

INDIAN While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg (A4/5), this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, it’s a collision of bold colour, spicy streets and enticing flavours. Most restaurants are concentrated along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Road and Bree Street (particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market). Favourite stops include North Indian Coffee House (tel. +27 11 492 2089), Dosa Hut (tel. +27 11 492 1456), Al Makka (tel. +27 11 838 2545) and in the neighbouring streets the old school Bismillah’s (78 Mint Rd, +27 11 838 6429). Many places close for Friday prayers between 12:30 and 14:00 and most restaurants do not serve alcohol. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat DELHI DHARBAR A small, but busy restaurant serving up authentic North Indian cuisine – the high number of Indian expats confirms our view that this is the real thing. Succulent lamb dishes such as the kadhi are highlights. Although staff appear to be rushed off their feet most nights, they are more than happy to supply takeaways.Q138 11th St, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 883 4407. Open 10:30–24:00. RR. THAVA Despite its size, this large, smartly decorated restaurant really fills up. At Thava the spice is just right. The hot and crispy naan breads fresh from the kiln are ideal for mopping up the perfect traditional curries made with a south Indian influence.Q44 The Avenue (cnr Grove Rd), Norwood, tel. +27 11 728 2826, thava.co.za. Open 10:00– 22:00 (closed 15:30–17:30). RR. LB

MIDDLE EASTERN BURHAN’S BUTCHERY For a budget option there’s this halaal butchery started by two burly Turkish brothers. Follow the delicious smell to where the kebabs are grilled on the pavement. Enjoy chicken, spiced lamb, kofta, Turkish flatbreads and other meaty treats.Q79 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 1123. Open 09:00–18:30, Sun 09:00–16:00. R. EAT YOUR HEART OUT The décor of this intimate little eatery is inspired and constantly evolving while the tables along the pavement offer a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings or the excellent shawarma salad and order a freshly pressed juice to go with it. There's also a small but ever-changing selection of great gift items made by popular gift and homeware brand, Love Jozi.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www.eatyourheartout. co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R. BSW SCHWARMA COMPANY Set over two storeys this fully licensed spot is always packed. Feast your eyes on towering displays of olives and other Middle Eastern staples to accompany your lamb, chicken or beef shawarma. You can also choose other traditional Middle Eastern dishes such as the Egyptian specialty ful medames.Q71 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 1776, schwarmacompany.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. RR. Corkage fee R50. TUBS TEI AVON Superb Israeli bistro that makes a darn good shawarma and the best fried eggplant in town. Cosy interiors and free wifi also make this an attractive stop, along with the homemade halva and pistachio ice-cream.QShop 17, Victory Park Shopping Centre, cnr 2nd Ave and Rustenburg Rd, Victory Park, tel. +2711 782 6976, www.teiavon.co.za. Open 10:30–21:00, Wed, Thu 10:30–21:30, Fri 10:30– 22:30, Sat 08:30–22:00, Sun 08:30–21:00. RR. LW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Great Eastern Food Bar, Melville

TETA MARI For shakshouka breakfast (a dish of poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) there’s this stylish cafe with a sunny outdoor deck and a menu that mixes traditional Israeli and New York classics. Kosher dishes available at extra cost.Q5A Illovo Square, cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. RR. LB

PIZZA ANDICCIO 24 This chain of pizza joints does takeaways and free deliveries but you can also stop by and eat your pizza at the store. It may be fast food, but their pizzas are top-notch and you can choose your own topping combinations. Branches in Sandton, Greenside and Randburg.Q3 Corlett Drive, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, www.andiccio24.co.za. Open 24hrs. R-RR. TVBSW ANT CAFÉ An eclectic and intimate spot that’s full of character and always busy. No space is left uncovered by memorabilia and items of curiosity in this moodily-lit den that specialises in cheesy pizzas. Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00. RR (corkage R45). UNBS

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN GREENSIDE CAFÉ Here’s to raw food, vegetarianism, peace and understanding. A bright and welcoming place serving raw food, fresh juices, wheat-free pizzas, delicious salads and decadent desserts. So tasty non-vegetarians won’t be put out.Q34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, www. thegreensidecafe.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. R. UB

For more restaurant choices, see our website www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com. Leave a comment and tell us what we're missing May – August 2015

Where to eat SANDTON RESTAURANTS

SIMPLY DIVINE Expect a warm welcome from a pleasant mother and son team (Bhaiya Singh and his mum) at this purely vegetarian restaurant. Curries vary daily but the signature dish, butter paneer, always features and is truly sublime. Also try the Punjabi samoosas and paneer pies.QBlairgowrie Plaza, 70 Conrad Dr, Randburg, tel. +27 76 394 5224. Open 10:30–19:30, Sat 10:30–16:30. Closed Sun. R-RR.

CAFÉS AND COFFEE

Knead, Michelangelo Towers

Among the dizzying array of big brands and fast food chains at Sandton’s premier malls, Sandton City and Nelson Mandela Square, there are some lesser-known gems worth seeking out. For fine dining and an elegant atmosphere try the lavish Baroque-styled Pigalle with its exceptional seafood and an extensive wine list (Michelangelo Towers, tel. +27 11 884 8899, pigallerestaurants. co.za/Sandton. Open 12:00–16:00 and 18:00–22:30). For light Mediterranean inspired lunches and a great salad selection, try Deli One in Sandton City (lower level, near Woolworths, tel. +27 11 784 1897, www.delione.com) or look for Knead, a stylish bakery and café with good service, delicious freshly baked goods, a huge pizza oven and a craft beer menu (Michelangelo Towers, tel. +27 87 550 9148. Open 07:00–21:00, Sun, Mon 07:00–17:00). A short walk from the malls there’s the 24 Central complex. The Wolfpack is a popular option for gourmet burgers (tel. +27 87 550 4571, thewolfpacksandton) or make a quick drop in at Panini Brothers for good coffee and sandwiches and an opportunity to rub shoulders with Sandton’s media who’s who (tel. +27 11 783 5438, www.paninibrothers.co.za. Closed weekends). Some of the nearby hotels also house excellent restaurants where great service comes as standard. The Bullrun steakhouse (see p. 27) in the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is particularly noteworthy. Finally, for a break from the glitz and shine, Benmore’s 11th Street is just a 20-minute walk or a short tuk-tuk ride from Sandton City. Here you can sample a world of tastes along a scruffy low-rise strip of independent restaurants. Take your pick from Chinese, Thai, sushi, Indian, Nigerian and even fine-dining options. Our favourite spots on the strip include Mumbai Masala, a café selling typical Indian street food such as dosa, chaat, thali and pani puri (tel. +2711 784 5430. Open 11:00–22:00, closed Sun) and Eatery JHB, a laid-back fine-dining restaurant with a seasonal menu and excellent drinks list (cnr 11th St and Victoria Ave, tel. +27 11 783 1570, www.eateryjhb.co.za. Open for lunch Mon–Fri, for dinner Mon–Sat. Closed Sun). * See p. 66 for a map of Sandton. 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CROFT & CO. Good service, Illy coffee and possibly the best scrambled eggs in town have made Croft & Co. the early morning hangout for Joburg’s opinionistas, writers and other media types. An equal opportunity café Croft also welcomes the Louis Vuitton-handbag-toting, Lycra-clad, RangeRover-driving set, post-school-drop-off and gym workout. Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, www. croftandco.co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30– 21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. LBSW FATHER COFFEE A blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple to aesthetics and font design this coffee shop only seats around six people, but there’s plenty of leaning space on the counter. There’s also a giant coffee roaster and it is de rigueur to buy a bag of the best beans or ground coffee to take home.QC-3, Shop 2, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30– 17:30. Closed Sun. 6BSW LOVE FOOD A cute streetside eatery with a sumptuous daily harvest table of freshly-made salads and meat, fish or chicken dishes. Desserts are good too – if you are lucky there will be an unforgettable chocolate pie or ask for Paul’s homemade ice-cream. Very popular with the business crowd and academics from the nearby university.QC-2, 4 Ameshoff St, Braamfontein, tel. + 27 83 602 6511, lovefoodkitchen. com. Open 07:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The harvest table is set out by 11:30 and is much in demand so come early to ensure you experience the widest choice. Corkage R20. 6BS

Post Breakfast Lunch, Braamfontein

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat PARK CAFÉ Pretty and pink with an Astro Turf carpet, and perfectly placed on art gallery row (see p. 10). A spectacular coffee machine takes pride of place on the counter of this cosy cafe. The coffee is perfect and the menu is all about fresh, healthy ingredients – for breakfast the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0250, www.parkcafe.co.za. Open 07:30– 17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00. Corkage R30. ULESW THE PATISSERIE A favourite of the ladies who lunch, with its bold pinkand-white-striped walls and small French-style tables with lots of delicate girlie touches. There is an awesome display of pastries and cakes, plus a light meals menu. Favourites are the fluffy scrambled eggs with fresh tomatoes and, for lunch, a generous helping of salmon fish cakes with salad. Friendly service makes it even cosier. QPost Office Centre Illovo, Cnr Rudd Rd and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:30. Closed Sun. POST BREAKFAST LUNCH A hipster corner of Braamfontein complete with bearded baristas, a street-side counter view, vinyl on the turntable and a small but adequate breakfast and lunch menu. The ingredients are fresh, locally produced and seasonal and the menu is updated accordingly. A long table in the courtyard is perfect for spending time at with your laptop.Q70 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl.tumblr.com. Open 06:30–16:00, Sat, public hoildays 08:30–14:00. Closed Sun. 6BSW UNCLE MERV’S For a smoothie – try the Felix King with peanut butter, soy milk, banana, honey and dates – and a coffee any way you like it, try this sidewalk kiosk. They also serve snacks, fresh croissants and banana bread. The charming barrista will remember you with a friendly greeting the next time you visit.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 73 211 5127, www.mabonengprecinct. com. Open 07:00–16:00. LBS WARM & GLAD The tagline of this popular hangout is ‘food, media, culture’. With excellent coffee and a small but perfect menu using, where possible, organic and locally sourced ingredients, this spot is a favourite of Joburg’s creative set. The music is loud (vinyl, of course) and nearby, along Jan Smuts Avenue, you’ll find the enterprising owner’s latest venture, The Jungle, simply one of the coolest new shopping haunts in town (see p. 56). Q357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Alban’s Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.warmandglad.com. Open 07:30–16:30, Thu–Fri 07:30–20:00, Sat 08:30– 15:00. Closed Sun. Kitchen closes 30 mins before closing time. ULEBSW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

A La Bouffe, Linden

EUROPEAN European immigrants have settled in Joburg since the earliest gold rush years, often bringing with them the tastes and flavours of the motherland. In particular the Portuguese, Italian and Greek communities are well-established and family-run tavernas can be found in all corners of the city. In recent years French, Belgian and Spanish cuisine has become fashionable and is growing in popularity. To stock up your cupboards, try the European delis Super Sconto (169–171 Louis Botha Avenue, cnr 5th St, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 2669. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–13:30, Sun 09:00–12:30) or La Marina Foods (7 Platinum Dr, Longmeadow North Business Park, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 3277, www.lamarinafoods.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 08:00–12:00. Closed Sun). 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant with its authentic and friendly atmosphere hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. The kitchen closes early (20:30) but it’s worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawns and calamari.QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00. Closed Mon. RR. TL A LA BOUFFE NEW Find cool, calm, French simplicity at this unfussy little bistro. Meaning simply ‘come and eat’, it specialises in traditional rustic classics served in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every two months to give seasonal ingredients their chance to shine.Q32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 8004. Open for lunch 11:00–14:00 (Sat 09:00–14:00) and dinner 18:00–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR-RRR. Corkage R40. UB May – August 2015

Where to eat ANYONE FOR DRINKS? Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then has expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter. Throughout my life I have kept a mental filing system of the things that are important to me. They form a picture of an actual, old-fashioned system in which each time, place, object, relationship, person and year has its own special place. Some things take up a bigger, more significant space in my subconscious memory box than others, and Nederburg just has to be one of them. After all, it has been a household name in the world of wine ever since I knew there was stuff called wine on the planet – and somehow the brand has endured. It has weathered and aged gracefully in some parts, and rejuvenated itself in others; it has earned its stripes, paid its school fees and come to rest in a million satisfied tummies across South Africa daily. One would imagine that with literally thousands of new labels being added to the market every year, Nederburg would drown under the weight of the competition. But unlike so many of its peers the brand has not just stayed abreast of the rest, it has sprinted forward in great leaps and bounds. The appointment of Razvan Macici as Cellarmaster some 14 years ago was a stroke of brilliance on the part of South Africa’s biggest producer and wholesaler, Distell, which owns Nederburg. Macici has lovingly woven his magic in and about the Western Cape vineyards and the cellar, and Nederburg remains one of the biggest bottlers of wine in the country, serving up thousands of cases of wine annually. It is dead easy to make a couple of barrels of superb wine; it is extraordinarily difficult to make millions of cases of superb wine. Nederburg has achieved this under the guidance of Macici and his team of viticulturists and winemakers. It is almost winter. The leaves are turning gold and red, brown and yellow. The sun wakes us up much later in the morning and I drive home in the dark late afternoons. It’s fireside and soup-and-bread time; it’s also Nederburg Winemasters Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon time. I cannot think of a nicer way to welcome the winter. Visit, phone or order online from any of our Norman Goodfellows stores – I guarantee you will not be disappointed with our first wine of the season. Q192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www. ngf.co.za. 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Liège Café, Sandton

ESCONDIDO NEW Spanish tapas joints are short-lived in this city but we hope this tapas and wine bar is here to stay. With its rustic décor and varied menu, Escondido attracts a lively crowd. For a big hunger you’ll need a budget to match. Worth it if you enjoy sampling lots of delicious tastes. For real adventure, match each dish with a glass from the impressive wine cellar.QPost Office Centre Illovo, cnr Rudd Rd and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 87 550 9140. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR–RRRR. UBL LIÈGE CAFÉ Fans of the buttery Belgian fashion of making pastries will love it here – the croissants and brioches are just as you want them to be, freshly made with love and attention, and the excellent waffles dolloped with crème Chantilly and berries are a delight. The evening menu changes fortnightly and focuses on French classics.QShop 30–32, Atholl Square Shopping Centre, cnr Katherine St and Wierda Rd East, Sandton, tel. +27 11 036 2924, liegecafe.co.za. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–17:30. RR–RRR. BSL PAREA A lively taverna serving Joburg’s best Greek fare since 1993. Their wide-ranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, delicious roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare like kleftiko and souvlakia. The stuffed calamari is excellent. From 21:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant hots up with some Greek dancing and belly-dancers. Be warned, this place draws noisy crowds and seating can get cramped.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8777, www.parea.co.za. Open 11:00 until late. RR. BS TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery with polished service also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on pricey necessities like Tortellino’s signature melanzane and spinach malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach). There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and dessert will have you wishing you had left more space.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, www.tortellino.co.za. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. RRR. TBL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

How to Explore, Experience & Enjoy Joburg in 72 hours!

JOBURG’S TOP ATTRACTIONS DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT EXPERIENCING OUR BEAUTIFUL CITY: Soweto:

No visit to Joburg, would be complete without a trip to the sprawling township of Soweto. Some of the things to see in Soweto are: • Vilakazi Street where both former president Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu lived. Mandela’s house has become a museum and is open for public tours. • Orlando towers is for the thrill seekers. Bungee jump from the suspended bridge or simply spend the day relaxing at Chaf Pozi, the local shisa nyama at the foot of the cooling towers. • The Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum which opened in 2002. It is located, not far from the spot where 12-year old Hector was shot on 16 June 1976, during the Soweto uprising.

City Sightseeing Bus: www.citysightseeing.co.za

City sightseeing open-top bus tour is the best way to go sightseeing in Joburg. The bus operates on a hop-on, hop-off basis, allowing sightseers the chance to get off the bus at

any of the designated stops along the route and then get back on a later bus at their leisure.

Maboneng Precinct: www.mabonengprecinct.com

Maboneng precinct is home to many independent retailers, stocking a variety of local designs and craft and making Maboneng a showcase of the best in fashion, art, furniture and more. One of the stores to visit is 1886 Boutique Joburg, which stocks household objects from taxi hand-sign printed tea towels to ceramics bearing the image of the Hillbrow tower.

Gold Reef City: www.goldreefcity.co.za

Experience Africa’s greatest entertainment Theme Park created around an authentic 19th Century Gold mine at Gold Reef Theme Park. The centre is a theme park and casino, and offers the widest range of attractions. Join the young at heart and test drive any of the more than 30 adrenaline boosting rides.

Johannesburg Zoo:

Apartheid Museum:

www.jhbzoo.org.za

www.apartheidmuseum.org

The Joburg Zoo is one of the most popular local and tourist attractions situated in the leafy northern suburbs of Johannesburg. Founded in 1904 and covering 81hectares, Joburg Zoo houses over 320 species, totaling about 2000 animals; it is open to the public 365 days a year. The Zoo offers educational tours plus an opportunity to see the Big Five if you’re pressed for time to go to a game reserve.

The first of its kind, this museum illustrates the rise and fall of apartheid. The museum is a superb example of design, space and landscape offering the international community a unique South African experience. For anyone wanting to understand and experience what apartheid in South Africa was really like, a visit to the Apartheid Museum is fundamental.

Newtown Precinct:

Attractions to see in Newtown Precinct are Museum Africa, Sci Bono, Market Theatre and The SAB World of Beer, which ranks as one of South Africa’s top tourist experiences, offering nearly 50 000 visitors a year a uniquely memorable encounter with the magic of beer and brewing.

Sandton City: www.sandtoncity.com

Sandton City is one of Africa’s leading and most prestigious shopping centres. The centre offers an unparalleled shopping experience that combines the world’s most desirable brands with everyday leisure and entertainment. With about 300 leading local and international retailers, Sandton City is one-of-a-kind premier fashion and leisure destination.

info@joburgtourism.com www.joburgtourism.com

Constitution Hill: www.constitutionhill.org.za

Constitution Hill is a symbol of South Africa’s unique and triumphant democracy. Situated on a hill, overlooking the bustling Johannesburg City and the forested suburbs, Constitution Hill provides a unique perspective of Johannesburg and its rich history. The site is home to the Women’s Gaol museum, Number Four museum and Old Fort museum. These areas host gripping exhibitions with themes that showcase South Africa’s rich heritage and advocate human rights.

Liliesleaf Farm: www.liliesleaf.co.za

Liliesleaf Farm was once the nerve centre of the liberation movement and a place of refuge for its leaders. Today, Liliesleaf is one of South Africa’s foremost, award winning heritage sites, where the journey to democracy in South Africa is honoured.

Nightlife JOBURG’S HOUSE MUSIC Author and culture critic Bongani Madondo writes for Rolling Stone, the New York Times and Mail & Guardian. Here’s his house music Top 10. 1. SOCIAL MEDIA SOUNDTRACK Whether you call it house music, electronic or 21stcentury rave culture, it’s back and banging harder than any sound of the last century. Global and globalised under the blanket banner ‘electronic dance music’ (EDM), this culture has become the new faith, its icons the vinyl-spinning shamans, DJs known as DeadMau5, David Guetta and Swedish House Mafia and their South African counterparts: Euphonik, Oskido, Black Coffee and Goldfish. Together, their sonic genius has created the soundtrack of the social media age. 2. JOZI, THE AFRO-POLIS Joburg’s reputation as one of the planet’s top 10 EDM centres is no fluke. The city and its townships have been burning up the dance floors with over-amped speed, electro mixes of township sounds with Euro-trash, and dub-step, drum ’n bass and jazz long before Ecstasy found rave culture. With an avalanche of world-class DJs in an overripe EDM market, fuelled by social media, Joburg has a thumping bass reminiscent of the earth drills of the late 19th-century gold rush. 3. BLACK COFFEE Nathi Maphumulo, a jazz and classical music graduate better known as Black Coffee, is a visionary. His rise has been meteoric since his 2005 eponymous debut, featuring hit tunes that included a Hugh Masekela collaboration. Lauded in international dance music bible Mix Mag’s latest issue, his tour dates read like a world map of house music. Realblackcoffee. 4. THE HOUSE KALAWA BUILT! This largely producers-led reservoir and tech lab of house music headed by Oskido, arguably the continent’s best House DJ, and his posse of dance Einsteins – Mandla ‘Spikiri’ Mofokeng, Bruce ‘Dope’ Sebitlo, Mjokes and Mahoota – have created, produced and made names to know from Boom Shaka, Mafikizolo, Black Motion and Uhuru to Speedy & Professor. If you have a dance itch to scratch, check out Kalawa’s facebook page to find out ‘where’s the party at?’ Kalawa Jazmee Records. 5. DJ FRESH ‘The Big Dawg’ of house music is a tattooed radio (5FM) personality, pop-philosopher, loudmouth, and accomplished club DJ. He’s also a super-wealthy rock star with 36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

a heart, as socially engaged as he is sonically obsessed. His Fresh House Flava’s volumes have imprinted his multivaried style and influence on local dance. One of the first black House visionaries to cross over into electro heavy white dance spaces, with his sidekick and a mean vinyl poet, DJ Euphonik, Fresh has never been fresher. 6. CULOE DE SONG Quite simply the Future Tsar of EDM, this Red Bull DJ Academy (Spain) alumnus – like that Europe-based superdance freak-a-zoid Spoek Mathambo – has an umbilical link to Africa’s dance archives. He’s the bridge between Joburg’s commercialized dance culture and Durban’s ghetto and village innovations of a minimalist bass-heavy beat. 7. HOUSE MUSIC LOVAZ (FANS) The wildest wild man of rock ’n roll Keith Richards once said his biggest fear was not jail or dying, but being surrounded by teenage groupies. It’s obvious he never hung out with Jozi’s house music congregants. Known as The PLURal generation (Peace, Love, Unity & Respect), these king and queen-making hordes make every DJ, producer, track, trend and club. The fans are the Establishment. 8. CLUB HOTSPOTS Ibiza has Pacha and Jozi’s House Culture commercial zone is at thumping joints such as Harem in Rosebank and Sandton’s Taboo. Of course the rawest, futuristic, newest sounds and styles will always originate far from the neon lights in a lonesome dance-geek’s room in the suburbs, or Alexandra’s back alleys.QHarem, 160 Jan Smuts Ave, Cnr 7th Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0203, Hush.Rosebank. Taboo, 24 Central, Cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandown, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za). 9. HOUSE MUSIC PARTIES You’ll find the cool crowd on top of the city roofs at events like The Warm Up Jozi, one of the first regular inner-city rooftop house music parties and still leader of the pack (G-4, Citilec Rooftop, 246 Main St, Maboneng, thewarmupjozi.co.za. First Sat of the month from 14:00). House Music Comes Alive is a new edgy rooftop club night for emerging live house music acts (F-5, Some Roof Top, 162 Anderson St, City Centre, HouseMusicComesAlive). 10. GOLDFISH Bets are you haven’t see Dom and Dave lately because they’re travelling the world, playing international festivals and healing dance culture’s die-hards with their unique Afrobeat tech house grooves. Goldfish are as beloved in this city as they are St Elsewhere. Catch them whenever they are in town (http://goldfishlive.com). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Stanley Beer Yard, Milpark

Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dancing clubs, to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that nightlife areas are spread across the city. Wherever you go, make sure that if you are driving you stay sober, or take a taxi. The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18. See p. 40 for venue details.

BRAAMFONTEIN The city’s student heartland, ‘Braam’, is the place for the newest fashions, hippest events and parties that last until sunrise. The nightlife heart is the corner of Juta and De Beer Streets. From May 7, First Thursdays, a monthly open-street initiative, kicks off – see www.firstthursdays.co.za. Kitchener’s is a hip but unpretentious hangout in an old Victorian pub. A second-home for Joburg’s cool kids and creative types, the welcoming atmosphere and youthful ambience is addictive. Next door The Great Dane attracts a similar crowd and its small and quirky courtyard packs out on weekends. Anti-Est on the opposite side of the road caters to a slightly less studenty, but equally diverse and creative crowd and specialises in more-ish cocktails, craft beers and house DJs. The Bannister Hotel Bar is a relaxed place to enjoy drinks while watching life on the street or catch a gig in the basement concert space.

BRYANSTON & FOURWAYS Deep in the northern suburbs most bars are confined to characterless strip malls, defined by their abundance of generic chain restaurants. Break free from mall culture at Social on Main in Bryanston with its buzzing atmosphere, delicious bar menu and top-notch cocktails. It is easily the suburb’s most fashionable hangout. Meanwhile in Fourways, the huge Montecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre is full of bars and clubs, some of which are open around the clock.

GREENSIDE Notorious for its sticky floors, party buses and large groups of tipsy teens, Greenside’s messy nightlife strip Gleneagles 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Road has recently turned a corner. Its wildest dance bars have closed down to make way for slick new café bars selling cocktails and craft beers. The suburb’s main strip is clearly working on rebranding itself as a hipster hangout for young people with money. For warm-up drinks with a big crowd Mish Mash, with its huge wine selection and large beer garden-car park, is always popular and it is now joined to The Greensider food hall, where you can pick up gourmet street food such as Balkan burgers and burritos. Next door the 1970s townshipthemed Mama’s Shebeen is also still a fun place to hang out with a big group and drink some crazy shooters such as the Sowetan Toilet. For complicated expert cocktails in a more sophisticated setting, try the Moroccan-themed Po Na Na or the street’s latest newcomer The Artisan.

MABONENG The rapidly expanding and über-fashionable Maboneng Precinct rewards those willing to wander and see where the night takes them, with new pop-ups and parties all the time. On the main street, Fox, Chalkboard Café is a low key spot for pizza and craft beers following a visit to the P.O.P. Art Theatre or The Bioscope cinema. Six floors above is The Living Room, a rooftop bar famed for its sundowner parties. The Hideout Bar, below Joburg’s coolest backpackers Curiocity, is the place to sip beers and shoot some pool with a young and friendly mix of locals and travellers. Just a few blocks over Zebra Inn (Cnr Kruger St and Albertina Sisulu Rd) is a fabulously cheap and grungy bar decorated with the taxidermied heads of almost 100 African animals. By far the best cocktails in Maboneng can be found at Lenin’s Vodka Bar, a Sovietthemed little hangout with great music, a lovely candle-lit courtyard, delicious bar snacks and the biggest selection of vodka this side of Moscow (see p. 39 for a free shot).

MELROSE More than just a mall, with its sanitised streets and piazzas Melrose Arch is a whole designer lifestyle playground. After 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays, you’ll find a flashy atmosphere and a clubby vibe at Churchill’s, an upmarket gastro-pub with an impressive wine and cocktail list. The African-themed restaurant Moyo on Melrose Square is a fun venue to celebrate good times with live African drumming and an extensive wine cellar (head there for a tasting). Order a round of rainbow-coloured cocktails and a big sharing platter of exotic African dishes.

MELVILLE & MILPARK Joburg’s original bar-hopping area is Melville’s 7th Street. The venues change almost as regularly as the weather, and just when it seems that Melville has finally slid off the city’s party radar, another nightlife boom beckons. Currently the coolest hangouts are Hell’s Kitchen, a new speakeasy-style whisky bar selling its own patented cinnamon whisky, Hellfire, and the retro-chic craft beer johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

lifestyle. Friday nights are the busiest, when Sandton’s thousands of white collar workers are let loose for the weekend. The 24 Central complex (24 Central, cnr Gwen Ln and Fredman Dr) has the widest choice of watering holes. Visit The Wolfpack for craft beers, cocktails and gourmet burgers; to partake of some cheesy pop music try The Baron, where Toto’s Africa is still on the nightly playlist; or for a glam night out in one of the city’s most famous clubs try to make your way past the velvet rope at Taboo. Slightly further afield the glamorous nightclub The Sands throws large dance parties.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES

Lenin’s Vodka Bar, Maboneng

bar, Jo’anna Melt. Older Melville stalwarts with a taste for cheap drinks and party music can still find this at Six Cocktail Bar, Ratz gay bar, and the Mozambican-themed Xai Xai, a notorious dive in desperate need of a refit. Five minutes’ drive from Melville, Stanley Beer Yard is an attractive beer garden and hunting lodge-styled bar specialising in craft beers and German food.

ROSEBANK & ILLOVO Illovo Junction (cnr Oxford Rd and Corlett Dr) is a popular little corner with a growing choice of bars and restaurants. The Griffin gastro-pub is a reliable place with an outstanding craft beer menu and great pub grub and next door the Mexican restaurant Perron has a small bar space where you can sample exclusive tequilas. Rosebank is the place to dress up and strut your stuff, particularly at Kong nightclub, frequented by wannabe models and sports stars. For a quieter evening with someone special drop by the Hyatt’s relaxing courtyard for drinks at The Terrace Cigar & Wine Bar or treat yourself to a bottle of bubbly at Level Four Champagne Bar.

SANDTON Largely focused on business and shopping, Sandton Central is not necessarily the hippest neighbourhood for a night out, but there are a handful of bars, plus some exclusive nightclubs where VIP is not just a label but a full-time facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Joburg has a diverse and ever-changing live music scene and you can find a gig to enjoy most nights of the week. Choose from little neighbourhood bars promoting unsigned bands or sophisticated jazz clubs and historic concert halls. AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION Slightly scruffy but atmospheric little jazz café in the old Sophiatown area, specialising in African jazz, poetry and spoken word. Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www. afrikanfreedomstation.co.za. BASSLINE B-4, Long-standing concert venue hosting jazz nights every Wednesday in the jazz room and larger concerts by well-known South African bands in the main hall.QB-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za. KATZY’S A slinky and stylish club with live jazz bands every night.QThe Firs, Cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ln, Rosebank, +27 11 880 3945, www.katzys. co.za. Open 12:00–24:00. Closed Sun. THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found here, both on stage and in the audience. Booking is recommended. Live music every night.QC-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za. Closed Mon. THE RADIUM Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium is famous for its mouthwatering Portuguese food and live jazz and blues. A real diamond in the rough. The Radium Jazz Band plays every Fri and guest bands every Saturday. Bookings recommended.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. May – August 2015

Nightlife NIGHTLIFE DIRECTORY BRAAMFONTEIN Anti Est C-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, tel. +27 74 187 2421, AntiEst.SA. Open 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00. Closed Sun–Tue. The Bannister Hotel Bar C-3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 11:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00. Closed Sun. The Great Dane C-3, 5 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 1136, greatdanebar. Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00– 04:00. Closed Sun–Tue. Kitchener’s C-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, tel. +27 11 403 0166, BarKitcheners. Open 10:00–21:00, Thu 10:00– 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–04:00. GREENSIDE The Artisan 12 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 11 027 3707, www.theartisan.joburg. Mon–Thu 07:30–23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30–24:00, Sun 07:30–21:00. The Greensider 20 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 11 026 2915, www.greensider.co.za. Open Tue 06:30–22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00–22:00, Sat 10:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Mama’s Shebeen 18 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 84 380 3451, mammasshebeen. Open 10:00–23:00. Mish Mash 20 Gleneagles Rd, tel. +27 11 026 2915. Open 16:00–02:00, Sat 11:30–02:00, Sun 11:30–22:00. Po Na Na 137 Greenway Rd, +27 71 436 8645, www.ponana.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00. Closed Sun–Tue. MABONENG Chalkboard Café G-4, 286 Fox St, tel. +27 039 7306, www. thebioscope.co.za/chalkboardcafe. Open 08:30–23:00. The Hideout Bar G-4, 302 Fox St (cnr Auret St), tel. +27 11 592 0515, www.curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 12:00–22:00. Lenin’s Vodka Bar G-4, 300 Commissioner St, www.lenins. co.za. Open from 16:00, Sun from 12:00. Closed Mon, Tue. The Living Room G-4, 5th floor, 20 Kruger St, tel. +27 61 402 2843, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 15:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Mon–Wed by appointment only. P.O.P. Art Theatre (see p. 14). Zebra Inn G-4, Cnr Kruger St and Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 82 494 7763. Open from 12:00. MELVILLE Jo’anna Melt Bar 7 7th St, tel. +27 72 733 5966, JoAnnaMeltBar. Open from 12:00. Closed Mon. Hell’s Kitchen 4 7th St, tel. +27 79 980 9591, www.hellskitchen.co.za. Open 12:00–02:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. Ratz 11 7th St, tel. +27 11 482 9965, www.ratzbar.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00. SIX Cocktail Bar 4 7th St, tel. +27 11 482 8306, SIXCocktailBar. Open 12:00–02:00. 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Stanley Beer Yard 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791, www.44stanley.co.za. Open 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Xai Xai 5 7th St, tel. +27 11 482 6990, XaiXaiLounge. Open 07:30–02:00. MELROSE Churchill’s Shop 52, HL, Melrose Arch Piazza, Melrose Arch Blvd, Melrose North, tel. +27 11 684 1040, www. churchillsbar.co.za. Open 14:30 until late. Closed Mon. Moyo Shop 5, The High St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1477, www.moyo.com. Open 11:30–23:00. ROSEBANK & ILLOVO Level Four Champagne Bar 54 on Bath Boutique Hotel, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www.tsogosunhotels.com. Kong Cnr Jan Smuts and Tyrwhitt Aves, tel. +27 11 447 0993, www.kongsa.co.za. Open Fri and Sat 21:00–05:00. Perron Illovo Junction, cnr Oxford Rd and Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 880 7296, www.perron.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–00:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. The Griffin Illovo Junction, cnr Oxford Rd and Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00–16:30. Closed Mon. The Terrace Cigar and Wine Bar Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 15:00–22:00. SANDTON The Baron 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Lane, tel. +27 11 883 8435, www.thebaron.co.za. Open 12:00– 01:30 (bar may close earlier if not busy). Taboo 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Lane, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00– 04:00. Closed Sun–Thu. The Sands 58 Wierda Road East, tel. +27 11 783 1302, thesandssandton. Open Fri, Mon 12:00–02:00, Sat 14:00–02:00. The Wolfpack 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Lane, tel. +27 11 783 8562, thewolfpacksandton. Open 11:00–22:00. Closed Sun. BRYANSTON & FOURWAYS Montecasino Casino and Entertainment Centre Cnr of William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7000, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 24hrs. Social on Main 1 Posthouse St (off Main Rd), Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 7115, www.socialonmain.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00, Thu –Sat 12:00–02:00.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket encourages responsible drinking. Turn to page 3 and use our discount code on your first Uber ride. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Apartheid Museum

APARTHEID HISTORY Johannesburg has been shaped by its apartheid history, and Nelson Mandela’s story is inextricably linked with this. Follow this trail for insights into the complex and multilayered city that is Johannesburg today. APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid, from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence, telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R65, students, pensioners R50, under-18s R20 (not recommended for children younger than 10). UK CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum with window display exhibits was once the offices of the first black law firm in the city, Mandela and Tambo Attorneys, a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheid’s restrictions on black life. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of Mandela as a boxer.QC-5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. CONSTITUTION HILL This complex includes The Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court, revealing some of the darkest hours of 20th-century South Africa, while also showcasing the optimistic future enshrined in the modern Court. The exhibits bring to life the many stories of notable and ordinary people who passed through this place. Visitors can attend court hearings. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QD-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www.constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. UK NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY Founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive, the centre’s permanent exhibition focuses on Mandela’s life and times and his dedication to social justice, complemented by many personal artefacts.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela.org. Visits by prior appointment only. Free entrance. U facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM Unquestionably Soweto’s best museum, exhibits focus on the events surrounding the Soweto uprising of 1976 in which hundreds of schoolchildren were shot by the apartheid police. A wealth of startling photography, personal testimonies, videos and informative texts are used to great effect. No cameras allowed inside the museum. Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R30. U SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE In 1955 the apartheid government razed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant townships. This house is one of the few structures that survived and is now a museum dedicated to the history of the forced removals and the culture of old Sophiatown. Book in advance for a walking tour.Q73 Toby St, Cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, www.sophiatown. net Open 10:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–13:00, also by appointment. Closed Fri, Sun. Entrance R35, walking tour R70. FREEDOM PARK Further afield, this is an impressive memorial to South Africa’s history and heritage, themed around humanity, freedom and healing. Numerous thought-provoking memorials detail the many different struggles the country faced on its path to democracy. A guided tour is highly recommended.QCnr Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 336 4000, www.freedompark.co.za. Guided tours (R45) leave at 09:00, 12:00 and 15:00 and can last up to two hours. U LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the resistance movement and it was here that Mandela and his comrades formulated their plans for the armed struggle against apartheid. The displays offer fascinating insights into the amazing story of the Rivonia raid and trial. A new permanent exhibit tells the story of one of the liberation movement's most successful and audacious arms-smuggling operations. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00. Admission R60, children 8–17 yrs old R30, under 7, free. Guided tours from R110. UKW May – August 2015

Sightseeing

Main Street's Impala Fountain by Michael Wald

CITY CENTRE Joburg was built on gold – literally it sits on the edge of the world’s largest known gold deposit. And since the first discovery in 1886 the search for gold has shaped the mentality of the city, a hustler’s paradise with a whiff of lawlessness, a magnet for adventurers and opportunists alike. People still flock here hoping to strike it rich. Follow this trail in the city centre to relive the city’s history, from its gold-mining roots to today’s modern African city (see map on p. 64). MAIN STREET MINING DISTRICT Start at Chancellor House at 25 Fox Street (see Apartheid History on p. 41). Head east and first right to the Magistrate’s Court entrance. Opposite is the start of pedestrianised Main Street. Take in the Anglo American headquarters (1945) facade, modelled on Geneva’s League of Nations, and the delightful bronze leaping impalas fountain in the landscaped garden. The Main Street walkway showcases the city’s mining history with sculptures, a covered wagon and a mining headgear dotting the route. On weekdays office workers enjoy the street cafés here. The presence of mining companies ensures the area is clean and safe to explore. Along Main Street turn right into Simmonds for the Standard Bank building (5 Simmonds St), built on top of a gold mine. Once inside view the remnants of Ferreira’s Stope, uncovered in the 1980s, part of a small mining exhibition. The original bank headquarters, built in 1886, is on the corner of Fox and Harrison Streets. One block east, where Fox and Loveday Streets meet, is the historic Rand Club (1887), founded by Cecil John Rhodes. This members club is a must-see throwback to Joburg’s grand colonial past. QC/D-5, City Centre. WORKERS’ MUSEUM The Newtown workers’ compound was built in 1913 for male African migrant workers at the nearby power plant. It housed 300 men in just nine rooms. Closed in the early 1980s, it is now a museum detailing the appalling living conditions, struggles and hardships of migrant workers and pays homage to their important role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.QB-4, 52 Jeppe St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0600. Open 08:30–16.30. Closed Mon. Admission free. 42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CARLTON CENTRE ROOF OF AFRICA For 40 years the Carlton Centre office tower has held onto its title of ‘Africa’s tallest building’. Grab a bird’s eye view of the city from the 50th-floor Roof of Africa observation deck, or glimpse the glamorous ghosts of movie stars, captains of industry and leaders of the free world through the darkened windows of the locked-down Carlton Hotel. The entrance kiosk and lifts for the Roof of Africa are tucked away in the lower levels of the Carlton Centre mall. QE-4/5, Carlton Centre, 150 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 308 1331. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00– 17:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Admission R15, children under 10 years old R10. FASHION KAPITOL This rejuvenated city square is a fashion and lifestyle centre, promoting products and services of pan-African origin, vintage fashion and the latest wares made by student designers. Truly the fashion capital of Africa, Fashion Kapitol is located in the Fashion District on the site of the city’s early garment industry. The 20 or so demarcated city blocks around it house fashion stores, fabric shops, a college plus loads of small manufacturers. See p. 43 for guided shopping trips around the area.QF-4, 130 Pritchard St (off Troye St), New Doornfontein, City Centre, tel. +27 11 333 7372, www.fashiondistrict.org.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. JOHANNESBURG PUBLIC LIBRARY This grand Italianate-style building from the 1930s, with its marble columns, silver door handles and Venetian teak floors, has been sensitively restored. The library contains 1.5 million items, among them an impressive music collection, free wi-fi (not always on) and lots of great spaces to explore.QC-4, Cnr President and Sauer Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 022 5174. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00– 13:00. Closed Sun. DIAGONAL STREET On busy Diagonal Street with its traders and blanket shops, colour and bustle, you can get a rare sense of an earlier Johannesburg. A mix of architectural styles characterises the area with colonial buildings sitting next to architect Helmut Jahn’s multifaceted, ultra-modern diamond building. Look out for the muti shop (traditional medicine) and historic apartheid signs.QC-4/5.

View from the Carlton Centre

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing TOURS AFRICAN SECRETS Historical and culinary walking tours of the inner city. QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets.co.za.

Maropeng, Cradle of Humankind

MEET YOUR ANCESTORS The world’s oldest hominid fossils were discovered in Gauteng in an area now called The Cradle of Humankind. The most recent discovery in this area, Australopithecus sediba, was made in 2010 and is 1.977 million years old. Other notable remains found in the area include Mrs Ples, a 2.3million-year-old hominid skull, and the mysterious Little Foot, discovered in 1995 and thought to be more than three million years old. Ancient animal and plant fossils also discovered here suggest that this hot and relatively dry region of South Africa was once part of a tropical rainforest where giant monkeys and sabre-toothed cats roamed the land. ORIGINS CENTRE The excellent Origins Centre explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source. Alongside the many paleoanthropological exhibits there is also a fascinating focus on San culture and rituals.QB2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www. origins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R80, pensioners and Wits staff R65, students R45, kids under 12 R40, teachers (with school groups) R55. MAROPENG AND THE CRADLE OF HUMANKIND Take a trip to Maropeng, around 40 minutes’ drive north-west of the city in the Cradle of Humankind. The museum’s extensive modern exhibition takes an interactive approach to the history of life as we know it: from the Big Bang to the evolution of humankind, the discovery of fire and the spread of people across continents. You can also tour the nearby Sterkfontein Caves, where many of the area’s most famous fossils were found. End the day with dinner at Roots at the Forum Homini Hotel, one of Joburg’s most celebrated fine-dining establishments (see p. 25).QR400 just off the R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za. Open 09:00– 16:00. Tours of the caves every 30 minutes. Maropeng R160, students R100, kids under 14 R90. Sterkfontein Caves R165, students R100, kids under 14 R90. Combination ticket (Sterkfontein Caves and Maropeng), R215, kids under 14 R143. Kids under 4 free. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS Open-top hop-on hop-off bus with 11 stops in the City Centre, as well as the Apartheid Museum. Also links to a daily Soweto minibus tour and a walking tour of Maboneng with MainStreetWalks (see below).QTel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Bus leaves from Park Station every 30-40 mins. Last bus 15:40. DLALA NJE Walking tours around the tough inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturday) and Yeoville (Sundays), including a visit to the 52nd floor of the Ponte building for awe-inspiring views of the city.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org. GALA (GAY AND LESBIAN MEMORY IN ACTION) Inner-city tours focused on Joburg’s queer history and the struggle for LGBT rights in South Africa.QTel. +27 11 717 4239, www.gala.co.za. JOBURGPLACES Entertaining tours of the inner-city taking in its history, regenerated areas, hidden places and multicultural areas such as Little Addis and the Fashion District. Tours can be tailor-made.QTel. +27 82 894 5216, www.joburgplaces.com. JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION A diverse range of weekend walking and bus tours focused on the city’s history and architecture led by heritage specialists. See schedule online.QTel. +27 11 482 3349, www.joburgheritage.co.za. Bookings can be made Mon–Fri 09:00–13:00. MAINSTREETWALKS Discover street art and the Mai Mai Healer’s Market with this vibrant Maboneng-based tour company. Weekend cycling tours, bar crawls and a City Sightseeing Bus link are also offered.QTel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za. PAST EXPERIENCES Well-researched offbeat inner-city walking tours with many themes such as Mandela’s City, Shopping Joburg, Street Art and Graffiti. Tours can be tailor-made. Soweto and Pretoria tours also offered.Qtel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. SKYVIEW HELICOPTER CHARTERS Enjoy Joburg’s incredible skyline as viewed from a helicopter.Qwww.fly-helicopters-sa.com. May – August 2015

Sightseeing: Soweto ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING Regina Mundi Church played a hugely significant role in the struggle against apartheid and has the bullet holes to prove it (1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville). Mandela House Museum is the most popular attraction on Vilakazi Street – the address is actually 8115 Ngakane Street, corner Vilakazi Street. The Hector Pieterson Museum is an outstanding and deeply moving memorial to the events leading to the Soweto school uprising on June 16, 1976 (8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00– 17:00. Admission R30). Walter Sisulu Square is where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955 (Klipspruit Valley Rd, Soweto).

TOWNSHIP TOURS LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Two-hour, half-day or full-day tours of Soweto by bike or tuk tuk taking in everything from struggle history to traditional African customs.QTel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, www.sowetobicycletours.com. Tours leave from Soweto Backpackers, 10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, Soweto. BAY OF GRACE TOURS Avid conservationist Raymond Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide offering bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, www. bayofgracetours.wozaonline.com. TOUR 2.0 Community led tours in various townships, either by bus or on foot. Destinations include Alexandra, Soweto, Mamelodi, Onverwacht and Refilwe (Cullinan) as well as inner-city areas such as Yeoville and Fordsburg. QTel. +27 12 770 3608, www.tour2-0.com. SOWETO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Innovative tours of Soweto by quad bike plus go-karting, paintball and camping.QOrlando Towers, Dynamo St (cnr Old Potch Rd), Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za. ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS If your travelling time is short, explore nearby Alexandra township (Sandton’s neighbour) with the charming Jeff Mulaudzi, a community leader and cycling fanatic. Visitors are collected at the Marlboro Gautrain station for two- or four-hour cycling tours taking in Alex’s fascinating history and unique culture.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, www.facebook.com/AlexandraBicycleTour. 44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Vuyo Mpantsha from photography collective I See A Different You

Located 30km south-west of Joburg City Centre, South Africa’s most famous township is a top tourist attraction. Soweto was always at the forefront of the struggle against apartheid and there are several worthwhile sights that showcase this history. Although many areas are still desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier neighbourhoods and a growing middle-class. Whatever you choose to see there, you’ll find that it is the people who make your Soweto visit most memorable.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS (satnav), but if you do plan to drive yourself, main tourist destinations are well signposted. The Rea Vaya bus is the easiest way to arrive on public transport, with buses from central Johannesburg stopping near many of the key sights (see www.reavaya. org.za for route maps). For a whistle-stop two-hour tour hop on the Sowetoo minibus which links to the City Sightseeing Bus at Gold Reef City (see p. 43). Arrange in advance to hop off for two hours at Vilakazi Street.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all – comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent (see p. 22). There’s a kitchen for self-catering or enjoy a home-cooked meal.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This upmarket hotel looks out over Kliptown’s historic square and is themed around Soweto’s history.QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto SOWETO COOL Don’t visit Soweto looking only for evidence of the past – here’s a list of the coolest hangouts. LEBO’S OPEN-AIR RESTAURANT NEW Where once there was a dumping ground, township tourism pioneer Lebo, of the eponymous backpackers, envisaged a park. Today tourists, Sowetans and intrepid foodies all find their place under the shade of the palm trees opposite the backpackers. Lunch here is a simple affair, a gourmet version of the township ‘kota’ – a quarter loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with curried chicken, beef or vegetables. For spice, just add atchar.Q10823A Pooe St (cnr Ramushu St), Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. Lunch is 12:00–14:00, dinner 18:30–20:00. Groups require booking. THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store deep in the suburbs has been selling its own clothing brand, Thesis Lifestyle, since 2008. Their brand references Soweto street culture and their slogan T-shirts and ‘bucket’ hats are hugely popular. Next door is Thesis Café selling salads, wraps, fresh juices and smoothies. The store operates a running club, and every first Sunday of the month hosts a jam session.Q173 Machaba Dr, Mofolo Central, tel. +27 11 982 1182, thesissocialjamsession. blogspot.com. Open 10:30–19:30. Closed Mon. UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN The home of Soweto Gold, Soweto’s very own craft beer. At the huge beer garden you can take a brewery tour before tasting one (or all) of their beers, including a crisp, classic lager and apple, cherry or ginger-flavoured beers. Their ‘gourmet township grill’ menu is short, meaty and utterly delicious, and the staff are charming.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, tel. +27 74 738 0355, www.sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. I SEE A DIFFERENT YOU Twin brothers Justice and Innocent Mukheli and their friend, Vuyo Mpantsha, grew up in Pimville, Soweto. They create extraordinary photographs of township life and see the streets of Africa as the backdrop for recreating childhood moments and paying homage to their grandfathers’ and fathers’ sense of style. Their high-fashion images have captured attention as far away as Japan and Norway, and nowadays they work in the advertising industry.Qiseeadifferentyou.tumblr.com. ORLANDO TOWERS No visit to Soweto is complete without taking in the iconic Orlando Towers. Popular with bungee-jumping thrillseekers and other adrenaline junkies, the weekend partycrowd also throng here to enjoy the Chaf Pozi beer garden and braai. The wetlands surrounding the towers are also a haven for all kinds of birdlife.QTurn left onto Nicholas St, cnr Kingsley Sithole St, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www. orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Orlando Towers

LOCRATE Locrate mixes all the usual food trucks, craft beers, cool handmade items and vintage finds that weekend market aficionados love, with a distinctly Soweto buzz courtesy of hip local fashion, live music, DJs and street poetry. Very conveniently located close to Vilakazi Street.QCnr Kudu St and Moema St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Open every first and secondlast Sun of the month, from 10:00–17:00. BHONI4KASI NEW A new initiative promoting cycling as both a social activity and means of eco-friendly transport. The centre is involved in teaching people how to ride bikes, offers bike rentals, tours through Soweto’s green areas, bicycle sales and repairs and is also in the process of reclaiming a neglected wild space to build a bike park. QEyethu Lifestyle Centre, Cnr Mashaba Dr and Kinini St, Mofolo Central, tel. +27 72 947 3311 www. bhoni4kasi.com. FIXIN DIARIES Just as the 1960s mods claimed the moped, now the fixed gear bike has become the must-have hipster accessory. The Fixin crew specialise in custom-made fixie bikes that are becoming cult items for the cool crowd. Keen to promote cycling culture beyond the confines of the hipster fraternity, they organise regular mass rides and learn-to-cycle events.Q475 Bokunku St, Pimville, tel. +27 84 851 8681, www.fixindiaries.co.za. May – August 2015

Sightseeing: Soweto SOWETO MAP

NEIGHBOURHOODS ORLANDO WEST AND VILAKAZI STREET Soweto’s most famous street is marketed as the only street in the world to once have had two Nobel peace prize laureates living there – Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. A blue heritage plaque marks Tutu’s home and the little Mandela House Museum is Vilakazi’s most popular attraction (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, www.mandelahouse. com. Open 09:00–16:45. Tickets R60, citizens of African Union countries R40, kids over six R20, kids under six R5). Just around the corner (follow the signs) is the excellent Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum (see p. 41) dedicated to the memory of Hector Pieterson, one of the hundreds of school children who were killed in Soweto by the apartheid police during the protests of June 1976. Soweto youth rose up against apartheid regulations that black education should be inferior to white education and that all learning should be conducted in Afrikaans, then the language of the oppressor. June 1976 was a turning point in South Africa’s history and today you can still see the bullet holes in the famous Regina Mundi Church where protesters took refuge during the uprising which soon spread across the country (see p. 44). There are plenty of good places to eat and drink on Vilakazi Street plus ample opportunity to purchase local crafts and Soweto-themed souvenirs. For a walk on the wild side, look for the sign to Soweto Snakes Show. Try Nambitha Restaurant (6877 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 9128, www.nambitharestaurant.co.za) and Sakhumzi (6980 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 939 4427, www.sakhumzi.co.za) for typical township fare and exotic African dishes, or Thrive Café (8038 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 536 1838, www.thrivecafe. co.za) and Nex Dor (6979 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 039 7631) for cocktails, pop-up art exhibits and café culture. 46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

OPPENHEIMER PARK, JABAVU The quirky Credo Mutwa Cultural Village is located inside Oppenheimer Park and is a unique representation of African mythology. Built in the 1970s by the traditional healer and sculptor Credo Mutwa, it is now looked after by a passionate caretaker Lebohang Sello (tel. +27 78 810 2664) who will happily explain the complex meanings behind Mutwa’s mystical and prophetic sculptures. You can also enjoy a panoramic view of the entire township by climbing the Oppenheimer Tower, named after the mining magnate and founder of Anglo American. Each of its 49 steps marks a different suburb of the township.QOppenheimer Park, 991 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central. KLIPTOWN On June 26, 1955, a 3 000-person-strong Congress of the People, made up of representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups, gathered on the main square of Kliptown (now Walter Sisulu Square) to draw up the Freedom Charter. Under the banner ‘The People Shall Govern!’ it laid out the principles for a country in which all South Africans, regardless of colour, race, sex or belief would be entitled to equal rights, and ended with the pledge to ‘strive together, sparing neither strength nor courage, until the democratic changes here set out have been won’. After the first democratic elections were won in 1994 this document was used as the basis for the new South African constitution, recognised as one of the most progressive in the world. A monument, open-air exhibitions and a small visitors’ centre detail the principles of the Freedom Charter and give background to the amazing story of how it was written. Also on the square is the upmarket Soweto Hotel a perfect place to stop for lunch and drinks at the Jazz Maniacs restaurant (see p. 24). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Newtown NEWTOWN’S HEROES Labelled Joburg’s ‘cultural precinct’, the downtown area of Newtown has been in a constant state of renewal since the first mining camps pitched here in the 1890s. Slums housing mineworkers and brick makers, as well as tanneries, slaughterhouses and rough and ready taverns soon followed. In the early 20th century the area was razed to make way for the city’s main fruit and vegetable market (now Museum Africa, 121 Bree St) and power station (today an outstanding events space Turbine Hall, see p. 10) as well as many warehouses and a migrant workers’ hostel (visit the Workers Museum, see p. 42). With economic shifts the area began to decline, briefly springing back to life in the late 1990s and 2000s, then a hangout for artists and musicians. Now a new injection of commercial investment, which includes the opening of Newtown Junction mall, is pushing Newtown to make its ‘cultural precinct’ status meaningful. These are some of the places and personalities that continue to shape Newtown (see map on p. 64). CHARLES GLASS The mythical Charles Glass founded the Castle Brewery (now SAB Miller) in Newtown in 1894 when satisfying thirsty miners became big business. Learn about the history of beer (dating back to ancient Egypt) on a fun and informative SAB World of Beer tour.QC-4, 15 President St, tel. +27 11 836 4900, www.worldofbeer.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00 (last tour 16:30). Closed Mon, Sun. MARY FITZGERALD Newtown’s Mary Fitzgerald Square is named for Mary ‘pickhandle’ Fitzgerald, a fiery Irish-born trade unionist who inspired striking miners during the Rand revolts of the early 1900s. Always wielding her pickhandle, she was known for climbing atop counters at the city’s pubs to deliver rousing speeches calling for better conditions for miners.QB-4, between Bree and Jeppe Sts. KIM BERMAN AND NHLANHLA XABA In 1991 returning exile and artist Kim Berman and Nhlanhla Xaba, an up-and-coming Soweto artist, founded Artist Proof Studios to develop talented artists from disadvantaged backgrounds. Tragically Xaba died in 2003 in a fire that destroyed the studio. Its new location at the Bus Factory contains many salvaged works.QB-5, The Bus Factory, 1 President St, www.artistproofstudio.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun and public holidays. DAVID GOLDBLATT In 1989 now world-renowned photographer David Goldblatt founded the Market Photo Workshop, a leading photography school specialising in social commentary and offering support to photographers from disadvantaged backgrounds. Highly successful, the school counts famous photographers such as gay rights activist Zanele Muholi and World Press Photo winner Jodi Bieber, as alumni.QThe Bus Factory, 1 President St, see www.marketphotoworkshop.co.za for exhibitions. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Jewellery designer, the Prince of Newtown

PRINCE OF NEWTOWN A Newtown cultural icon, eccentric jeweller, artist and musician Prince Twala – aka The Prince of Newtown – has been a permanent fixture in the neighbourhood for more than 20 years. His ingenious jewellery range, fashioned from antique cutlery, is produced out of a Newtown studio. He also plays in the Studio Waste Band, regular Thursday night performers at Kaldi’s Café.Q PrinceOfNewtown. B-4, Kaldi’s Cafe, No. 1 Central Place, Jeppe St, tel. +27 11 838 4462. Open 07:30–19:00, Tue 07:30–18:00, closed Sun. NEWTOWN FASHIONISTAS Brenda Matshoba from Flair Vintage is Newtown’s unofficial vintage queen. An excellent stylist, the rails of her small market stall near Mary Fitzgerald Square are stuffed with a handpicked range of clothing from years gone by, sold at knock-down prices (C-4, cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, tel. +27 73 236 1640. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun). For a custom-made dress from brightly coloured traditional African fabrics, visit Thembi’s Pride, a tiny tailoring studio that also sells handbags and shoes designed and made by Thembi and her colleagues (C-5, cnr President and Miriam Makeba Sts, tel. +27 82 391 7933). BARNEY SIMON & JOHN KANI Writer, playwright and theatre director Barney Simon helped found the Market Theatre in 1976. From the start it staged controversial contemporary works, with multiracial casts, for mixed audiences, earning it the title of South Africa’s ‘Theatre of the struggle’. It is still considered to be the city’s leading drama theatre today (see p. 12). One of its stages is named after the late Barney Simon, the other for celebrated actor and playwright, John Kani, who helped found the Market Theatre Laboratory – a community theatre centre and drama school.QB-4, Cnr Bree and Miriam Makeba Sts, tel. +27 11 832 1641, www.markettheatre.co.za. May – August 2015

Sightseeing: Pretoria

Park Acoustics, Voortrekker Monument Just 50km from Joburg, Pretoria has a remarkable amount of history and culture and there’s plenty to do on a day trip or weekend away. Beat the traffic blues with a Gautrain journey and get off at Centurion, Pretoria or Hatfield (see p. 17).

WHERE TO STAY AFRICAN PRIDE IRENE COUNTRY LODGE A luxury bolthole perfect for a weekend getaway with an excellent spa and adjoining golf course. Hotel rooms look onto rolling lawns and a picturesque lake and bird sanctuary.QNellmapius Dr, Irene, tel. +27 12 667 6464, www. irenecountrylodge.co.za. MOROCCAN HOUSE This relaxing guest house with its ornate tiles, rich colours and the soothing sound of burbling water from mosaic fountains also has a décor store and a Moroccan café that is worth popping into for lunch.Q435 Atterbury Rd, Menlopark, tel + 27 12 346 5713, www.moroccanimports.co.za.

WHAT TO SEE The historic Church Square is surrounded by neoclassical buildings such as the Ou Raadsaal (Old Council Hall) and the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela and his comrades were sentenced to life imprisonment in 1964. Stop at the art nouveau Café Riche (2 Church Sq, tel. +27 12 328 3173). The excellent Pretoria Zoo is a sprawling green space with a cable car to give you a bird’s-eye view of it all. Among the rarer species to be found are Komodo dragon and okapi. Take the CBD Gautrain bus from Pretoria – the zoo is a 15-minute walk from stop 6 (232 Boom St, Central Pretoria, +27 12 339 2700, ww.nzg.ac.za. Open 08:30–17:30. Tickets R85, kids R55).The 52-hectare Freedom Park is an impressive memorial to South Africa’s history and heritage themed around humanity, freedom and healing. A guided tour is highly recommended (Cnr Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, tel. +27 12 336 4000, www.freedompark.co.za. Tours from R45). 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee Designed by Sir Herbert Baker to commemorate the Union of South Africa in 1910, the Union Buildings are the official office of the president. You cannot enter but you can admire the exterior, the impressive statue of Nelson Mandela and fine vistas over the city. Take the H3 Gautrain bus from Hatfield (Government Ave, Arcadia). In Irene, south-east of Pretoria, is Jan Smuts House Museum, the home for 40 years of statesman General Jan Smuts, a former prime minister of the Union (Jan Smuts Ave, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 1180, www.smutshouse.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 08:30–16:30. Tea garden closed Mon).

WHERE TO EAT AND SHOP Visit the working 19th-century Irene Dairy Farm, a relaxing place for a farmhouse lunch and to pick up fresh dairy products (Nellmapius Dr, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 4822, www.irenefarm.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00). For vintage bargain hunting you can’t beat Antique Route 6, 12 antique shops within a 5km radius of Riviera, a suburb north of the Union Buildings. Download the special Route 6 map at www.antiqueroute6pretoria.co.za. Drop by the quirky Duncan Yard for an eclectic selection of design and clothing boutiques and cafés with a bohemian feel (Cnr Jan Shoba, formerly Duncan St, and Prospect St, Hatfield, www. duncanyard.co.za). On a Saturday morning make a beeline for Hazel Food Market for a delicious array of food and drinks in a family-friendly environment (Greenlyn Village Centre, Thomas Edison St, Pretoria, tel. +27 83 554 5636).

WHAT’S ON On the last Sunday of every month, catch a lineup of new and established bands at Park Acoustics in the park surrounding the Voortrekker Monument, built to commemorate the 1838 Great Trek (Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof, www.parkacoustics. co.za. From 10:00. Tickets from R100). From June, Market on Main Pretoria launches in the heart of the central business district (012 Central, 385 Helen Joseph St, City Centre, marketonmain.co.za. Sat 09:00–16:00). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Ekurhuleni WHERE TO EAT VERDE MINHO For close to 20 years this Portuguese restaurant has never disappointed. Even after a recent change of owner and an interior makeover that removed the de rigueur East Rand decor items, it still makes some of the best beef espetada, chicken livers and peri-peri chicken around. Sports fans will be delighted by the big screen and friendly owner, who is prepared to switch channels even when Man City is playing.Q5 Bloem St, Boksburg, tel. + 27 11 917 2410.

Art deco fire station, Springs

You probably didn’t know it, but if you flew into O.R. Tambo airport you have already visited Ekurhuleni, which translates as ‘place of peace’ from the original Tsonga. It is a collection of nine cities that include Benoni (birthplace and once home to Hollywood star Charlize Theron and Monaco’s Princess Charlene Wittstock), Springs, Boksburg, Brakpan, Germiston and Edenvale. They were once prosperous mining towns linked by Main Reef Road, a route along the seam of gold discovered in 1886. The area still bears traces of the gold rush, from the mine dumps on the outskirts of Benoni (now used by sandboarders) to the art deco heritage buildings concentrated in Springs.

WHERE TO STAY EMPEROR’S PALACE This glitzy hotel and entertainment complex was once the World Trade Centre where the Codesa political negotiations that heralded the dismantling of apartheid were held.Q64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za.

WHAT TO SEE AECI DYNAMITE FACTORY Housed in the 1895 residence of the factory’s first chief engineer, the dynamite factory museum exhibits the fascinating history of this explosive stuff at the heart of the gold and diamond-mining industry.Q2 Main Street, Modderfontein, Kempton Park, tel. +11 309 4700. Open 09:00–17:00. ART DECO There is no formal tour but fans of art deco architecture will love a drive around Springs (about 50km from Joburg). Start at the Springs Fire Station and wind your way through the city streets to see more than 30 fine, but not necessarily well-maintained, examples that showcase the mining prosperity of this town in the 1920s and 1930s. Springs is also the birthplace of South African Nobel literature laureate Nadine Gordimer.QSprings Fire Station, cnr Boksburg and Welgedacht Rds, Springs. 50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

DA GRAZIELLA On Sunday afternoons this place is packed with Italian families sitting at long tables piled high with mouthwatering dishes from the vast menu. Run by a Sicilian brother-andsister team, the service here is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of choices on the menu.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, www.dagraziella.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. CASBAH ROADHOUSE One of the most distinctive roadhouses on the East Rand opened some time time in the 1950s and still serves double-thick milkshakes worth the drive. Stay in your car and flick your lights – no hooting, please – to attract the waiter’s attention. While later-model cars with their curved windows might not be ideal for holding up your tray, the experience is still worthwhile.Q91 Gladstone Ave, Brakpan. +27 11 740 3521. Open 09:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–24:00.

SPORTS & OUTDOORS EBOTSE LINKS A classic links-style course with thick rough, pot bunkers and uneven fairways. Other major features include the former water-filled quarry turned driving range, floating golf balls so they don’t get lost in water and a resident herd of springboks.QSarel Cilliers St, Benoni, tel. +27 11 749 1633, www.ebotselinks.com. SANDBOARDING Climb up the mine dump known as Mount Mayhem and sandboard down. Designed for adrenaline-junkies of all ages. QPure Rush Industries, tel. +27 82 605 1150, www.purerush.co.za Sat, Sun 10:30–15:30. Cost R250 per person.

WHAT’S ON The SADTA East Rand Ballroom and Latin Festival is one of the biggest dance events of the year. Held on June 13–14, it is a social and pro-am event for enthusiasts of all ages (Alberton Civic Centre, Alwyn Taljaard Ave, Alberton, www.sadta.co.za). For petrol heads and motoring enthusiasts there is the Gauteng Motor Fest on July 24–26 with the latest cars and thrilling stunts and races (Rock Raceway, 18 Main Reef Rd, Brakpan, www.gautengmotorfest.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Shoes by Maria McCloy Accessories

HUNTING FOR TREASURE Nechama Brodie comes from a long line of accomplished shoppers (and at least one shoplifter), and honed her own magpie instincts on Rockey Street where she worked in her parents’ shop and saved up her earnings to buy antique costume jewellery and play video games. ORIGINAL SHWESHWE Stiff cotton shweshwe fabric – named for the swishing sound it makes on the wearer – is a South African icon. Manufactured by DaGama textiles in the Eastern Cape, this distinctively scented, richly pigmented and delicately patterned cloth has inspired legions of copycats, but there’s no substitute for the real thing. At Studio 109, in Joburg’s Fashion District, you’ll find a smorgasbord of these fabrics by the metre, perfect for cushion covers, dresses or tablecloths.QE-4, Ground Floor, Johannesburg Sewing Centre, 109 Pritchard St, tel. +27 11 333 3060. fashiondistrict.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, Closed Sun. BOOKS, MUSIC AND AFRICANA This eight-storey site houses a gold mine of second-hand and collectible treasures, mostly in printed form. You can also browse a vinyl collection and find the occasional antique. At Collectors Treasury there’s always an eclectic and wonderful offering of rare and first editions, from centuries-old travel journals to 20th-century science fiction and other literary classics, and books on every other topic in between.QF-4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556, Collectors Treasury. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00, Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ANTIQUES, ART AND TCHOTCHKES Russell Kaplan Auctioneers handles two kinds of sales, one focused on functional household goods and another that draws Joburg’s seriously savvy buyers to view and buy antiques, collectibles and fine art. Here you’ll find well-priced examples of South African contemporary art, Victorian silver, and porcelain. Part of the fun is that you never really know what’s coming up. Viewing in the week before each auction.QCnr Garden and Allan Rds, Bordeaux, tel. +27 11 789 7422, rkauctioneers. co.za. Open 09:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. VINTAGE CLOTHING Reminiscene has been a Joburg fixture for more than three decades, starting off on Yeoville’s buzzing Rockey Street, later moving to its current Melville location. Owner Rosemary has an exceptional eye for beautiful items, and her shop is a vintage trousseau, with fringed embroidered shawls, lace gloves and silk flounces, beaded Sixties glitz, and enough glinting baubles (some costume, some precious) to make any magpie happy.Q3 7th St Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7905, www.vintageclothing.mahoonas. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00, Closed Sun. BARGAIN PRICES When the apartheid-era municipality brutally demolished the vibrant area known as Fietas in the 1970s, the Oriental Plaza was built for the area’s Indian traders to take its place. This once white elephant is today a thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts, while fuelled up on the legendary coconut samoosas from World of Samoosas.QA-4/5, 38 Bree St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752. www.orientalplaza. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00-14:00 for prayers. May – August 2015

Shopping GLASSWARE AND MODERN DESIGN CLASSICS At Jeremy Du Mughn’s welcoming suburban showroom, you'll find the perfect Danish chair or mint-condition art deco and mid-century classic light fittings and a kaleidoscopic assortment of collectible glassware. Jeremy Stephen Antiques also trades at the monthly antiques and collectibles fair held at Nelson Mandela Square (ssaf.co.za).Q19 4th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 5525, jeremystephenantiques.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. FABULOUS AFRO-CHIC ACCESSORIES Maria McCloy makes ‘accessories with attitude’. Her signature ranges, made from ink-saturated brightly printed African cloths sourced from all over the continent, currently include men and women’s shoes, sneakers, clutches, and even exquisite fabric-covered suitcases that are far too beautiful and precious to ever be checked into the hold. Maria sells at pop-up events and at Maboneng’s Market on Main (marketonmain.co.za, see p. 54). MariaMcCloyAccessories. JOBURG’S MUTI MARKETS One of the city’s oldest traditional markets, Kwa Mai Mai, is where izangomas (traditional healers), diviners and herbalists have been plying their wares and trade for decades. An ever-present scent of imphepho (a herb) hangs in the air, and you’re likely to encounter a startling array of dead animals for sale. Ask permission to take photographs. Transactions are generally negotiated in isiZulu. MainStreetWalks offers tours in this area (see p. 43).QG-5, Cnr Anderson and Berea Sts, City Centre. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. FLEECY BLANKETS AND KANGA CLOTHS Diagonal Street once marked the boundary of the Randjeslaagte Triangle – the land portion set aside for the mining camp that grew into Johannesburg. On the edge of the city’s former financial district, its array of shops dwarfed by bearish structures like the glass-fronted Diamond Building. Whether you’re looking for leopard print winter blankets or bold African kanga cloth, this street is an adventure crisscrossing the city’s past and present. Visit the KwaZulu Museum of Man and Science, a traditional ‘muti’ shop, at number 14. Be wary of pickpockets in this area.QC-4/5, Diagonal St, City Centre.

Fashion by Somerset Jane

OUT THE BOX IN MELVILLE Talk of Melville’s rise has been swirling for some time now. The bohemian suburb’s reputation was forged during the 1980s and early 1990s as it attracted the alternative Afrikaner set – academics, writers, artists, performers and poets. Melville was living like a wild child at a time when apartheid was doing its best to strangle the nation into conformity. Today it retains its alternative and eclectic feel, its high street along 7th Street devoid of big-name brands and the sameness that so often accompanies a modern change of fortune, its denizens a mix of hues and proclivities. With its proximity to two universities, Melville is a popular student hangout and also a nightlife capital. Its late-night bars have earned their fair share of notoriety, and with close to 30 guest houses it’s also a popular tourist stopover. Until now, the action has been concentrated along 7th Street, a household name because of its appearance in a TV soapie. In recent years there’s been the addition of upmarket restaurants like The Leopard (see p. 23), La Luna and a new rocking bar, Hell’s Kitchen (see p. 38) that would have made Dylan and Hendrix feel at home. Now the wild child appears to be growing up with the opening of 27Boxes, a container shopping development located between 3rd and 4th Avenues, just off 7th Street (scheduled to open mid-May).

POTTERY Situated next to the gothic-looking gasworks on Annet Road, a stone’s throw from 44 Stanley (see p. 55), Liebermann Pottery has an extensive range of ceramic tableware and dinnerware. It also stocks a large selection of brilliantly coloured ceramic planters and tiles. Bargain hunters love the well-stocked seconds kept in the courtyard.Q1 Annet Rd, Cottlesloe, tel. +27 11 482 2215, liebermannpottery.net. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–13:00. Couture by Black Coffee

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

T-shirt by Krag Drag

Joburg has always loved its status as the world’s largest inland port – unusually for its size, the city is not located on a waterway – so it seems natural to cement that status by making innovative use of shipping containers. Inspired by developments like Box Park in London’s Shoreditch, 27Boxes has transformed a disused park into more than 70 boutique stores, restaurant and kiosk spaces geared at entrepreneurs, from designers to chefs. There’s also an amphitheatre for live music and a cool kids’ playground. The emphasis is on local design and local production. Hot labels to look out for include local designer fashion favourite Black Coffee and iconic T-shirt and homeware range, Love Jozi. You’ll find jeweller Bridget McArdle’s handcrafted pieces at The Goat, and JeanKelly’s signature leather ballet flats. m.e.s.a.w (My Epic South African Way) specialises in unique hand-printed textiles, while Krag Drag is known for their cheeky designs and adorable kids' wear. Somerset Jane’s fashion label is all about clean lines, while Adihambo Mula-Landers’ innovative Galago Sandals can be customised by the wearer who gets to choose from an array of designs to add to the sole. Shopping’s not the only highlight. Expect unforgettable waffles, delicious donuts and cronuts, a gourmet sandwich bar, a microbrewery, a curry bar and roastery – plus a whole lot more surprises when the boxes are unwrapped. Q27Boxes, 75 3rd Ave, Melville (parking entrance on 4th Avenue), tel. 0860 109 237, www.27Boxes.co.za.

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May – August 2015

Shopping market has a great selection of pricey food and drinks, with queues for the ever popular paella stand and Balkan burgers, along with frozen mojitos and craft beer. The happening crowd takes over the terrace, with the top floor offering a great city view plus designer clothing, leatherware and household goods.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za. Open Sat 09:00–15:00.

Clocks at Bryanston Natural & Organic Market

MARKETS Any day of the week is market day in Joburg. Here you’ll find great food, the widest variety of crafted goods and vintage items, collectables, knick-knacks and must-have souvenirs. These are five of the best. BRYANSTON NATURAL & ORGANIC MARKET This is the original outdoor market, in existence for close on 40 years and still offering a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. From arts and crafts and health and wellness products to preservative-free and colourant-free home-baked goods, plus authentic Panama hats, there’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and, reassuringly, not a hipster in sight. The garden setting and tables under the trees make it a perfect venue for families.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www.bryanstonorganicmarket. co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00. MARKET ON MAIN The Sunday heartbeat of the Maboneng district. Food and design are centre stage with a selection ranging from African fusion sushi to perfect little pastries. One floor above is devoted to vintage fashion finds. Housed in a historic industrial building that flows into a central grassy courtyard this is a social hotspot. Or head upstairs for salsa dancing on the rooftop. QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, +27 82 868 1335, www.marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00. Night market first Thu of the month 19:00–23:00. NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKET For the cool kids in search of cocktails this market has been cloned and transplanted from its its native Cape Town into an urban city block, and now attracts up to 4 000 people to the city over the course of the day. The 54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET This expansive rooftop market specialises in colourful crafts and artworks, with a healthy handful of gourmet food stalls and local fashion thrown into the mix. The huge covered space accommodates talented artists working with myriad materials, from steel to beads. The market has a great regular events lineup that includes Vintage Sundays – the last Sunday of every month – and, from May, Rooftop Sundays – open-air rooftop live music performances. Go and support the ‘Stand for Hope’ – each week the market provides a stall to a local charity to promote its cause.QRosebank Mall (Rooftop) Level 4, cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, +27 72 243 8582, www.rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. THE SHEDS@1FOX Joburg’s newest market is set in historic warehouses that date back to the city’s gold mining roots. It is rumoured that the location was the site of one of the city’s first bars. On offer is a good range of food and drinks. Some favourite stands include Happy Me Bubble Tea and Baha Taco, plus there’s a small range of craft and clothing stalls and Piece, a shop selling beautifully crafted and ethically-sourced contemporary Southern African jewellery and other designer accessories.QB-5, 1 Main St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. + 27 82 3677 849, www.1fox.co.za. SOUVENIR HUNTING For impressive life-size beaded sculptures, wooden carved giraffes, west African masks, Malian carved chests and embroidered throws as well as paintings, handmade jewellery, toys and ceramics, classic keyrings, magnets and mugs, head to the Rosebank Art & Craft Market at Rosebank Mall. ‘This is Africa. We Bargain’ is the motto of the market traders here. To see sculptors at work on large pieces, go to the African Sculpture Market, an extensive outdoor patch in Bryanston. For those last-minute easy-to-pack mementoes of your trip to Africa, there’s an informal strip of craft stalls in Sandton Central along Maude Street. QAfrican Craft Market at Rosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, tel. +27 11 568 0850. Open 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00. African Sculpture Market, cnr William Dr and Main Rd, Bryanston, Open 08:00–17:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping MALLS From boutique to mega-sized we have picked out the city’s best malls. 44 STANLEY In a historic industrial complex with shaded courtyards you’ll find an eclectic selection of stores and cafes. Browse the AOP gallery, stop in at Anatomy for exceptional contemporary design objects, and at Lisa Jaffe’s Guillotine boutique for cutting edge local fashion, eat breakfast at Salvation Café or stop for a fair trade coffee at Bean There.Q44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. BAMBOO This cute complex faces a row of quirky shops across 9th Street, Melville, including artist Sue-Pam Grant’s fascinating installation space and the remarkable-looking Sies! Isabelle boutique. Stock up on a hand-picked selection of local and international fiction at Love Books, stop for lunch at popular café Service Station, and head upstairs to the regular pop-up gallery space.QCnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701. Generally open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00. HYDE PARK CORNER The mink-and-manure set shop at this medium-sized mall where price tags veer easily above the R10 000-per-item mark. For jewels fit for royalty head to Charles Greig, for international catwalk labels to Burberry, Callaghan, Luminance and other top-drawer stores, and for gifts Carrol Boyes stocks a locally designed pewter and silver cutlery and flatware range.Q6th Rd, cnr Jan Smuts Ave, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkshopping.co.za, Open 09:00– 18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00. ROSEBANK MALL The newly renovated Rosebank Mall has 160 stores, and is a vast shopping zone. Put on your walking shoes – it will be worth stopping for a fair trade flat white at Exclusive Books, while you plot your way around the centre. There are plenty of affordable High Street brands and a vast Woolworths fashion and food emporium.QBaker St, Rosebank, +27 11 788 5530, www.themallofrosebank.co.za. Open from 09:00. Closes 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 18:00, Sun and public holidays 17:00. SANDTON CITY With 300 stores this mega-mall is Africa’s most prestigious shopping destination. There’s not much you can’t get here, whether you are looking for the latest gadget, hiking equipment, on-trend fashion or crystal decanters. International High Street labels abound along with luxury brands Cartier and Louis Vuitton, as well as local department stores Stuttafords and Edgars.QCnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2015

Shopping HOTSPOTS PUNK & IVY STYLE MOTIQUE When husband-and-wife team Bianca and Khaya Bhubesii Sibiya dreamed up a fashion roadshow, they dreamed it on wheels. The result is a motique or mobile fashion boutique. Their unisex fashion label, Punk & Ivy, takes its name from Soweto slang, and is described as ‘sports luxe meets newage Ivy League’. Track Motique’s well-cut movements on Facebook. PunkAndIvyMotique.

The Jungle, Craighall Park

DIRECTORY Arts on Main G-4, 264 Fox Street, Maboneng, City Centre, www.artsonmain.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun market 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Augustine 87 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. + 27 11 447 1566, www.augustineclothing.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Egality 25 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 71 452 2503, www.egality.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00. Firehouse Shop 16, Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, +27 11 325 2225, www.fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Green Grass Shop 34 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 8570, www.greengrassdesign.co.za. Open 09:30– 17:00, Sat 09:30–13:00, Sun 10:00–13:00. Closed Mon. Loincloth & Ashes G-4, The Main Change Retail Space, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 143 2312, www.loinclothandashes.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat– Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. Nonna Shop 9, The Cobbles Centre, 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 8297, www.nonna.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00. Kluk CGDT 46 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 83 377 7730, www.klukcgdt.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:30– 14:30. Closed Sun. Kitenge Creaxions G-4, Maverick Corner, Commissioner and Albrecht Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 028 0226, www.kitengecreaxions.co.za. Open Tue–Fri 11:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–18:00. Closed Mon. Lalalux 50 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. 079 535 6552, www. lalalux.co.za. Open 9:30–17:00, Sat 10:00–14:00. Closed Sun. Stitch & Steel G-4, 300 Commissioner Str, Maboneng, City Centre, www.stitchandsteel.co.za. Open 09:00– 16:30, Sun 09:00–17:00. Tog’una 235A Jan Smuts Ave, Parktown North, +27 11 447 7654, www.toguna.co.za, Open 09:00–17:00. Sat by appointment only. Closed Sun. Yswara 57 6th St, Parkhurst, +27 010 590 12 74, www. yswara.com. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed weekends. 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE JUNGLE The Jungle is a concept store purveying covetable items that include indie magazines and a superb collection of books for the design and fashion-conscious, limited edition sneakers and other designer gear, furniture, exquisite homeware pieces and hats by local favourite Simon & Mary. The space is an ever-changing landscape of beautiful objects that will satisfy any global aesthete. Pastry chef Ishmael ensures there is always something sweet and fresh to linger over, and you can also order a light breakfast or lunch. Up the stairs to the left you’ll find the owner’s coffee shop, Warm & Glad (see p. 31).Q357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 326 0786, thejungleonline.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS If being out and about on Joburg’s streets is your calling, we recommend you visit these neighbourhoods. MABONENG For a superb selection of books and art and to catch a glimpse of activity in the print studio, head to David Krut Projects in Arts On Main, and upstairs to iwasshot in Joburg :) for box-framed photographs, notebooks and felt cushions that capture the essence of Joburg. For Africa-inspired fashion there’s Stitch & Steel, Kitenge, a tiny container store stocking East African cloth, and Anisa Mpungwe’s statement dresses in vibrant African prints at Loincloth & Ashes. Sunday is a great day to visit Maboneng with Market On Main in full swing (see p. 54). On Mondays many shops are closed. THE PARKS For art shopping, Parkwood’s galleries are unbeatable (see p. 10). At Togu’na in Parktown North you’ll find precious objets and artefacts from across Africa. In next-door Dunkeld, Firehouse stocks desirable ceramics, tableware and homeware items. Parkhurst‘s 4th Avenue is Joburg’s most popular High Street, great for browsing antiques, boutiques and enjoying café society. Nonna is a cute gift hotspot with an exciting array of South African-made items, and look our for Green Grass with its laser-cut designs on everything from notebooks to Perspex memo boards and cookbook holders. Egality is an elegant store for local designer threads for him and her, and for bespoke suiting there’s Augustine. You’ll also find Kluk CGDT’s elegant couture clothing, Lalalux’s covetable imported dresses, and Yswara for luxury African teas. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Grooming THREE CLOSE SHAVES To take care of that unruly stubble, choose from no-frills to a treatment with all the trimmings. SALON ROMA NEW The most Italian of barbershops, complete with Ferrari posters, pictures of mama and the old country. Choose a barber, sip an espresso and wait to be ushered to a cubicle. Tony, Tony M, Nino or Enzo have a loyal following. Hot-shave treatments are traditional and haircuts, hair tints and manicures are also available. Appointments are preferred.QCnr 7th and 29 1st Ave East, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 5940. Open 07:30–17:30. Closed Sun. Shave from R120. SORBET MAN NEW A slick, retro-contemporary interior, a cosmopolitan mix of stylists and plenty of extras that you otherwise might be too shy to ask for, including a ‘lollipop’ for those unruly nose hairs or an eyebrow threading. Grooming tops the agenda here, and you’ll leave looking like the prince of Sandton. Products include Dermalogica and Bluebeards, ensuring your skin gets a treatment while you take care of grooming essentials. Order an Americano or a whiskey and get your shoes cleaned while you wait. The shave is smooth, slow and close, using five towels.QSandton City, Shop L32, Entrance 6, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 8650, w ww.sorbet.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00. Shave from R175. STAR HAIRDRESSERS NEW A no-frills salon offering grooming treatments at the lowest prices. Enterprising young barbers offer a haircut, shave and eyebrow threading. Service is swift and you’ll leave groomed, having also had the chance to mingle with a diverse crowd from the neighbouring suburbs. Take your own reading material and don’t worry about booking. Q134 Barry Hertzog Ave (cnr Greenhill Rd), Emmarentia, tel. +27 82 786 6033. Open 08:00–21:00. Shaves and beard trims from R25–R40. DECADENCE For affordably-priced perfect tips and pampering body treatments, take refuge at Decadence, where you can expect luxury body treatments and five-star manicures, pedicures and facials in an intimate and discrete environment. Download the Decadence app for the full menu of treatments, price list and to make a booking request.QSandton City, Shop L31A, Entrance 6, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 6699, sandtonnails.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00, Fri 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00. Public Holidays 09:00–17:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

May – August 2015

Sport & Outdoors

Melville Koppies

FIVE GREAT WALKS BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM This sprawling green oasis has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks, a dam popular with local canoeists and a pretty terraced formal rose garden favoured for weekend weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00. JOHANNESBURG ZOO Walk on the wild side on more than 55 hectares established in 1904, with plenty of pretty picnic spots and an impressive collection of creatures from all over the world. There are zoo tours and regular events such as nocturnal visits and weekend family fun runs.QJan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org.za. Open 08:30–17:30. Admission R58, children and pensioners R36. MELVILLE KOPPIES NATURE RESERVE The Melville Koppies (‘koppie’ means ‘small hill’ in Afrikaans) has great views over the city and is littered with stone and iron age remains. The best way to visit is on one of the regular weekend guided walking tours.QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org. za. Open 08:00–19:00. Admission R40, Children R10. WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of Gauteng’s most beautiful and best-maintained parks offers stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching (look out for the black eagles), waterfalls and other natural delights. There are various long hiking 58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Sudhir Misra routes and large lawns for picnics. A perfect place to relax, just 30 minutes’ drive from the city.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/ gardens/walter-sisulu. Open 08:00–17:00. Entrance R35, discounts for students and pensioners. Kids under 6 free. WESTCLIFF STEPS Situated in one of the most affluent suburbs, the Westcliff steps (210 in total) are Joburg’s ‘stairway to heaven’, popular with joggers and dog walkers. The reward for climbing them is a jaw-dropping view. Entrance to the steps is on Crescent Drive.QCrescent Dr, Westcliff.

RUNNING While many roads and areas are perfectly suitable for runners, it’s always better to be safe than sorry – experienced runners know it’s not just crime you have to worry about but also inconsiderate drivers. Running in a group is usually the best way to hit the tarmac – Pirates Sports Club (piratesclub.co.za), the Rand Athletic Club (rac.co.za), the Wanderers Club (www. thewanderersclub.co.za) and Randburg Harriers (randburgharriers.co.za) all have weekly time trials and you don’t need to be a member to join in. The Nike Running Club leaves from the Nike store at The Zone @ Rosebank every Wed at 17:30 and attracts a young, fast crowd for a 3.5km or 7km run. For aspiring trail runners, there are weekly 5km Park Run events (parkrun.co.za) at parks around the city. For more, read our special online feature, Running Joburg, at iyp.me/73504f. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & Outdoors BOXING While most large gyms now offer some form of ‘boxercise’ or punch-bag and pad-work routines, if you really want to learn the sweet science of bruising there’s no substitute for a session with a real boxing trainer. Founder of the Hillbrow boxing club George Khosi ( HillbrowBoxingClub) and former champions Alan Toweel, based in Linden (alantoweelboxing.co.za), and Andrew Matabola of Team Castellan Boxing Gym (www.teamcastellan.com) all offer different training experiences and environments. Read our full online feature about boxing in Joburg at iyp. me/73538f.

GOLF Joburg is a golfers’ paradise with more golf courses in one city than probably anywhere else in the world. Just within a 10km radius of Sandton there are 15 courses. Factor in year-round sunshine and highly competitive pricing and it’s no wonder this town has a major share of golfing fanatics. Clubs are mostly closed on Mondays and open on every other day from 06:00 or 06:30. Try to book tee times as far in advance as you can. Weekends are members-only at most clubs, so call to check. If you have left it late try www.lastminutegolf.co.za for a booking. Find our full online golfing guide to Joburg at iyp.me/73352f.

CYCLING The outer suburbs and countryside surrounding Joburg have some popular mountain biking routes such as the trail along the Braamfontein Spruit from the Melville Koppies through Delta Park to Bryanston and Leeuwkop (25km one way, or a 50km loop), or the many specially marked trails found in the Cradle of Humankind (see more about the Cradle on p. 43). Social road cyclists should try the innercity night rides Critical Mass (last Fri of the month, jhb. criticalmass.co.za) or the Jozi Hustle (organised by Hunter Cycling, tel. +27 79 802 9555, huntercycling.com), both of which leave from the corner of Juta and De Beer Streets in Braamfontein, one of a growing number of districts (along with neighbouring Auckland Park) that now have demarcated cycle lanes. For guided cycling tours of the city see pp. 43 and 44, or read our online cycling feature, All About the Bike, at iyp.me/73371f.

FAMILY ADVENTURE For a break from sightseeing, here are some energetic things to do, whether you are looking for an adrenaline rush, family fun or some friendly competition. THE FUN COMPANY Teenagers throng this place for ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, pool tables and arcade games. Also perfect for young families.QThe Zone @ Rosebank, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4099, www.thefuncompany.co.za. Open 09:00–24:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

JOZI X Activities offered include mountain boarding, a slackline park, big wheel trike drifting, a parkour gymnasium and an extreme wipeout course.QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, www.jozix.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. LASER BATTLE ZONE Great fun for young teens, just don’t wear white – you’ll be a sitting duck! The Boogaloos Skate Park is also near the entrance.QShop G45 Brightwater Commons, Republic Rd, Randburg, tel. +27 11 789 3036, www.brightwatercommons.co.za. Open 11:30–20:00, Fri 11:30–23:00, Sat 09:30–23:00, Sun 10:00–20:00. Closed Mon. SOWETO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Innovative tours of Soweto by quad bike as well as go-karting, paintball and camping.QOrlando Towers, Dynamo St (cnr Old Potch Rd), Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za. ORLANDO TOWERS Serious thrills for adrenaline junkies – bungee, swing, climb, abseil or scad fall at Soweto’s iconic towers.QOrlando Towers (see address above), tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Thu–Sun 10:00 until sunset, on other days for large groups by prior arrangement. ULTIMATE FRISBEE Joburg’s Ultimate Frisbee club meets every Wednesday at 19:00 for a competitive game and on Saturdays at 15:00 for a pickup game.QPirates Sports Club, 25 Braeside St, Greenside, ultitude.za.net.

HUDDLE PARK One of Joburg’s only public golf clubs, Huddle Park has a mashie (short par three course) that is perfect for beginners, as well as a full 18-hole championship course. The club also offers other activities such as putt-putt, trout fishing, birdwatching, walking and mountainbiking trails (enquire at the pro shop about routes and open times). There is a large clubhouse with bars and a pizzeria. The existence of all this publicly accessible and affordable recreational space is down to the persistence of local residents who fought for years to prevent the council from selling it off to property developers. After successfully saving the park, the Linksfield community then set about cleaning it up – in particular its expansive wetlands – transforming this once neglected space into a very successful nonprofit public golf club.QClub St, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 640 4456, www.huddlepark.com. May – August 2015

Joburg Basics ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry.

The ’randela‘

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville, Greenside and Braamfontein are traditionally late-night haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa. Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BANKING AND MONEY BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. ATMs are widely available. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www. absa.co.za), FNB – First National Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za). For a history of money and banking, visit the Money Museum (E-5, Barclays-Absa headquarters, 15 Troye St, City Centre. Open 08:30–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Identification required). CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% is levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11. Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones. CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn. co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www. telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband. co.za). All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol stations and online. RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying to get a local SIM. VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

INTERNET ACCESS

More and more cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wireless. Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibreoptic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card. MILKY WAY INTERNET CAFÉ Offers public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03, The Zone @ Rosebank, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00.

MEDIA South Africa has a free press and was ranked 42nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2014 press freedom index. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. Read Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), Daily Maverick (www.dailymaverick.co.za), Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za) or Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co.za). For the raciest headlines, read The Daily Sun. Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9). SABC (www.sabc.co.za) is the public broadcaster, and e.TV and eNCA (www.etv.co.za and www.enca.com) are free-to-air TV channels. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R25.50 Cappuccino R18 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R11.5 Loaf of bread R8–R11 Local beer (in a bar) R20

NEED TO KNOW DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly. See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm. ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa. Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally. South Africa’s power supplier, Eskom, has been struggling to meet demand and occasionally implements ‘loadshedding’ (planned powercuts to release pressure on the grid). Find the loadshedding schedule at citypower.co.za. POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC). The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament. The current president is Jacob Zuma. SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes. TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time. TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (www.joburgtourism. com) and Gauteng Tourism (www.gauteng.net). WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good. May – August 2015

Joburg Basics TRAVELLING TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Although every effort is made to keep visitors safe, no city is crime-free. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and ask locals for advice. When exploring the city use registered and accredited tour guides. See page 43 for our recommendations, and www.joburgtourism.com for tips and safety information.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Various services aim to ensure the safety of Joburg’s visitors and more than 4.6 million residents. These include: Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JMPD), the South African Police Service (SAPS) and the Gauteng Traffic Police. When in uniform, officers wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. You have the right to ask officers to identify themselves with their identity cards whenever they approach you. POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services

PLACES OF WORSHIP There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa. Joburg has many places of worship and spiritual sites (see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket. com for addresses and contact numbers of various religious congregations). In suburbs like Yeoville and Hillbrow you can follow the sounds of the charismatic preachers from Nigeria and Cameroon, who set up in backyards and under makeshift tarpaulins. On weekends many public parks are commandeered by churchgoers. You will see groups of people dressed in blue-and-white, green-and-white or khaki suits, a trademark silver star identifying their allegiance to the Zion Christian Church (ZCC). Preachers worship on top of Yeoville Ridge, the highest green point in the inner city, which is believed to bring followers closer to their god. 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Guided walks through the inner city

Bheki Dube, MainStreetWalks

MEDICAL CARE Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock. For advice on malaria prophylactics and malaria areas, such as the north of Limpopo province, speak to a chemist. EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST This practice offers emergency medical and dental care. Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366. It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7. MAYS CHEMIST A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00– 21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00. MORNINGSIDE DISPENSARY An after-hours pharmacy.QThe Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588, scripts@morningsidedispensary.co.za. Open 08:30– 21:00, Sun 09:00–21:00. NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL A level-1 trauma centre that caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. Open 24/7. NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7. THE SMILE FACTORY For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786. QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics SOUTH AFRICANISMS South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern and Southern Sotho, Sotho, Swati, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe. While English is the lingua franca, cultural diversity has created a South African language of its own. Handy words include: Local-lingo cushions

www.iwasshotinjoburg.com

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and most big malls will be open (see p. 55). Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday. January 1 March 21 April 3 April 6 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

POSTAGE The South African Post Office is not well regarded after a protracted recent strike, so don’t expect postcards or parcels to arrive timeously. Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo airport (Terminal A1 International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Babelas Hangover Bakkie Pick-up truck Boerewors Sausage of minced meat and spices Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994 Braai Both the act of coal-grilling meat, and the event at which it is eaten Brinjal Aubergine, eggplant Bro or Boet Brother, meaning friend Bunny chow A hollowed out loaf of bread filled with curry Car guard Someone who offers to help you park and look after the car Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European and African origin Dagga or zol Marijuana Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder Howzit How are you? Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans) Jol To go out on the town, to party Just now or Now-now Any time in the near future, from two minutes to many hours Lanie A boss or smarty-pants Lekker Tasty or cool Monkeygland sauce A fruity, tangy meat dressing (there’s no monkey in it) Mzansi A Zulu word for South Africa Pap A stiff porridge made with maize-meal and best served with a tomato-and-onion gravy or a meat stew. It is a South African staple ‘Plastic?’ When someone asks you this question they want to know if you want to buy a plastic bag in which to carry your shopping Robot Traffic light Sawubona A greeting in Zulu Sharp! Great! Shisa nyama A braai, often outside a butcher shop Sho’t left A nearby stop in taxi-commuter lingo Skyf A cigarette Spaza shop An informal convenience store Tekkies/Takkies Athletic shoes Tokoloshe A mischievous evil spirit Tsotsi Someone up to no good Walkie talkie Boiled, seasoned and grilled chicken feet Yebo Yes (in Zulu) May – August 2015

CITY CENTRE MAP

RENAMED STREETS In March 2015 a number of city streets were renamed. Street signage is still being updated. These streets are: Bree St = Lilian Ngoyi St, Jeppe St = Rahima Moosa St, Noord St = Sophie de Bruyn St, President St = Helen Joseph St, Sauer St = Pixley ka Isaka Seme St.

SANDTON MAP

Explore, Experience and Enjoy Joburg in 72 hours

As always Joburg is jam-packed with events ranging from leisure to business. Explore the city and see why it is a preferred destination for business, lifestyle, heritage, culture, arts, sports, nightlife and shopping. A trip to Joburg is not complete if you haven’t ticked off our list of top places to visit: • • • • • • • • • •

Soweto Gold Reef City Johannesburg Zoo Constitution Hill Sandton City Apartheid Museum Newtown Precinct Lilliesleaf Farm Maboneng Precinct Joburg Theatre

Johannesburg - Most Visited City in Africa two years in a row

(MasterCard Global Cities Index 2014)

Johannesburg - 2nd Most Inspiring City in the World

(Annual Good City Index 05/11/2014) info@joburgtourism.com www.joburgtourism.com