Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 7, Feb-Apr 2016

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

February - April 2016

Wild Joburg Meet the Big Five plus some urban beasts

Braamfontein Touring Hipster Central N°7 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on

6

A round-up of the season’s best events

Districts A-Z

* See pageJhb_In-Your-Pocket_print_60x60_r3.pdf 38

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14

Find your way around

Quick picks What to eat, drink and do at a glance

Arriving & getting around Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

15 C

16M Y

19CM

Best guest houses, hotels and hostels MY

Where to eat

22CY

Suggestions for all tastes and budgets CMY

Braamfontein

34K

Find your way in Joburg’s hipster heartland

Nightlife

38

Courtyard bars, breweries and a gin explosion

Wild Joburg

43

Meet the Big Five

Sightseeing Apartheid history Museums Art galleries and tours Soweto Pretoria

Shopping

46 46 47 48 49 52

By neighbourhood Markets Cool and quirky

53 53 55 56

Sport & outdoors

58

Aerial adventures

Joburg basics

60

Essential information for your stay Maps: Districts p. 14, Soweto p. 50, City Centre pp. 64–65, Sandton p. 66. All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pp.

64 and 65. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FIND US ONLINE There’s so much going on in this fastpaced city and, as much as we would like to, it is impossible to include all we know in our printed guides. For the full picture visit our website at johannesburg. inyourpocket.com, where you can browse hundreds of listings on everything to do in Joburg and its surrounds, read our latest features, find new hotel, bar and restaurant reviews, and check out our weekly What’s On guide to the best events in the city. We also love sharing what we know on social media. For the latest updates, follow us on Twitter @JohannesburgIYP and like us on Facebook at JohannesburgInYourPocket. Sign up for our weekly e-mail newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to get the newest reviews, features and recommendations delivered straight to your inbox every Thursday morning.

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for.

February – April 2016

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Foreword Most people think Joburg is a wild place and we do not disagree. From animals that roam the city walls, to suburban creatures and the majestic Big Five, there are plenty of opportunities to encounter furry or feathered beasts. If your penchant runs more to urban adventure while sipping a freshly roasted brew, follow our trail to hipster capital Braamfontein, a district that inspires breathless comparisons with Brooklyn in the international press. Joburg’s restaurant scene seems set for take-off with a clutch of exciting chefs vying to stamp JHB on South Africa’s culinary map, gin is the flavour of the season and courtyards are where you’ll find some of the coolest bars. If you arrived here with foreign currency ‘You’re rich!’ and our shopping pages will give you plenty of ways to share your wealth.

And if all you want is to get above the hustle, try one of our suggested aerial adventures. Wherever you go, and whatever you choose to do, Johannesburg in Your Pocket is your passport to being a Joburg insider.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researcher Alyssa Vratsanos Contributors Anna Trapido, Carrie Adams Photography Mark Straw, Justin Lee, Heather Mason and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER STORY

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.

The cover image is titled Una Salus Victis Nullam Sperare Salutem and was painted by globally acclaimed South African-born street artist Faith47 on the corner of Fox and Rissik Streets in Johannesburg city centre. It was shot by photographer Justin Lee for this issue. The Latin phrase from Virgil’s ‘Aeneid’, translates as ‘the one safety for the vanquished is to abandon hope of safety. Surrendering to the knowledge that there is no hope, can bring deep courage.’

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, www.oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

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Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Our new digital platform, online at inyourpocket.com, is a radically redesigned and restructured resource which places the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover. The new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop, tablet or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. Meantime, back in the world of print, we have just published the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP: you can download a free copy at inyourpocket. com/kaliningrad. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Rebellion and Johannesburg, Dance Umbrella Kopie

DOWN MEMORY LANE Until 07.02

Queen: It’s a Kind of Magic. A colourful tribute to the 1980s rock supergroup. Joburg Theatre. Tickets from R120.

10.02– 28.02

Bye Bye Baby: The Story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. Joburg Theatre. Tickets from R120.

13.02– 14.02

Johnny Clegg. South Africa’s ‘white Zulu’ performs his greatest hits and shares the stories behind them at this nostalgic show. Emperors Palace. Tickets from R180.

20.03– 21.03

Lionel Richie: All the Hits, All Night Long. For those who remember the first time a hit song titled ‘Hello’ took over the world. TicketPro Dome. Tickets from R570.

31.03– 03.04

Always & Forever: A Tribute to Luther Vandross. South African R&B star Timothy Moloi leads this tribute to the Velvet Voice. Joburg Theatre. Tickets from R120.

05.04– 09.04

Chris de Burgh. Peforming all the classics plus tracks from his new album ‘The Hands of Man’. Teatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R285.

19.02

6

Camané – Infinito Presente. Widely regarded as one of Portugal’s greatest singers of fado, the melancholic music of Lisbon’s 19th-century barrios and docks. Emperors Palace. Tickets from R550.

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The biggest city in southern Africa, Joburg has a vibrant arts and culture scene and every week brings a different party, festival, theatre show, concert or art happening. Here you will find some of the biggest events in the city in the coming months. To check out the local live music scene, visit the clubs listed in Nightlife (p. 39). For an up-to-the-minute guide to all the latest events and happenings, check out our weekly What’s On guide online at iyp.me/70561ch and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

LIVE MUSIC AND FESTIVALS UNTIL 07.02 SUNDAY INTERNATIONAL MOZART FESTIVAL The eighth instalment of this classical music festival offers an inspired programme of performances. This year’s theme is ‘Alla Turca’, taken from Mozart’s Turkish March.QVarious venues. For the full programme and to book tickets see www.join-mozart-festival.org. Tickets from R150.

14.02 SUNDAY VALENTINE’S BLUES Some of South Africa’s best folk and blues musicians, including Dan Patlansky, Gerald Clark, Sannie Fox, Laurie Levine and Coelacanth, perform at this special Valentine’s Day festival in the romantic surrounds of the Nirox Sculpture Park. Pack a picnic or enjoy what’s on offer at the Epicurean Emporium.QNirox Sculpture Park, www.acousticsnow. org. Tickets from R300.

26.02 FRIDAY – 27.02 SATURDAY ULTRA SOUTH AFRICA This global dance event is headlined by American dubstep DJ and producer Skrillex, whose 2015 viral music video Ragga Bomb was filmed in downtown Joburg and Alexandra.

Other major international acts include DJ Zedd, Seth Troxler and Robin Schulz. House music superstar Black Coffee represents the South African scene.QNasrec Expo Centre, ultrasouthafrica.com. Two-day tickets R1 500. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Rosebank Sunday Market is back!

Rosebank Sunday Market offers the best selection of stylish handcrafted products, vintage finds, amazing art, jewellery,

mouthwatering food, an array of artisan deli offerings and a rooftop bar serving craft beer and chilled wine!

Visit www.rosebanksundaymarket.co.za or our Facebook page and like us for updates & event info. We’re open every Sunday 9am-4pm on Level 4 parking, Rosebank Mall

More than 2 000 parking spaces available, use the entrance in Sturdee Avenue next to the Rosebank Clinic. Take the lifts to Level 4 and simply cross the bridge to access the market.

rosebanksundaymarket.co.za

12.03 SATURDAY JACK DANIELS BOOMTOWN One of the most glamorous music events on the Durban calendar, this is the first year that the Boomtown experience comes to Joburg. The dress code is ‘premium, stylish and smart’, upmarket whisky bars and lounges will keep the party moving into the evening and American hip hop star T.I. is the headline act.QZoo Lake Sports Club, cnr Lower Park Dr and Prince of Wales Rd, Parkwood, boomtown. za.com. Tickets from R490.

25.03 FRIDAY – 03.04 SUNDAY RAND SHOW 2016 Africa’s biggest and longest-running lifestyle expo boasts hundreds of exhibitors promoting everything from camping to cars. For most visitors the main attraction is the jampacked entertainment programme that includes a funfair, stunt drivers, military demonstrations, strongman competitions, circus performers, live music, interactive science displays, cookery workshops and animal shows.QNasrec Expo Centre, www.randshow.co.za. Tickets TBA. 02.04 SATURDAY SOWING THE SEEDS A one-day music festival amid the greenery of Joburg’s Emmarentia Dam with lots of craft beer, boutique wines and gourmet food trucks to choose from. This year’s headliners are cult Icelandic indie band Of Monsters and Men and British neo-soul duo Jungle.QEmmarentia Dam, Olifants Rd, Emmarentia, www.sowingtheseeds.co.za. Tickets R495. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

24.04 SUNDAY WE THE PEOPLE WALK 2016 Named for the preamble to South Africa’s constitution, this 5km or 8km walk through downtown Joburg ends with a free family festival that includes art, music and poetry performances and entertainment for the kids. Walks start at 08:00.QConstitution Hill, Braamfontein, www.constitutionhill.org.za.

23.04 SATURDAY CLASSICS NOW Enjoy a day of live classical music performances in the tranquil surroundings of the elegant Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind. A bottle of the best boutique South African wine and some local homemade produce from the upmarket food and wine market is the perfect accompaniment.QNirox Sculpture Park, www.acousticsnow.org.

Tickets TBA. 27.04 WEDNESDAY BACK TO THE CITY Attracting close to 20 000 festivalgoers to the streets of Newtown, this is Africa’s biggest hip hop and street culture festival, which each year is timed to coincide with the Freedom Day public holiday. Three live stages see MCs, beatboxers, rappers and dancers performing throughout the day, while basketball courts, skating ramps, graffiti areas and a clothing market also set up camp.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, www.backtothecityfestival.com. Tickets TBA. February – April 2016

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What’s On UNTIL 28.02 SUNDAY ROGER BALLEN: THE HOUSE PROJECT From one of the country’s most influential photographers comes this disturbing and unforgettable exhibition inspired by the work of Carl Jung. QGallery Momo, 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo. com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun.

Mohau Modisakeng, JAG Centenary

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 12.02 FRIDAY WILLIAM KENTRIDGE As part of its 50th anniversary celebrations, Goodman Gallery presents this collection of new portraits, sculptures and installations by leading South African artist William Kentridge. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the video installation Notes Towards a Model Opera, inspired by the Chinese Cultural Revolution and featuring choreography and dance by Dada Masilo.QGoodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00.

Closed Mon, Sun.

FIRST THURSDAYS Joburg celebrates the first Thursday of every month.

You can look forward to contemporary art, live music, DJ sets, poetry, performance art, pop-up bars and more in one of the city’s two most art-filled districts: Braamfontein and Rosebank. By and large entrance to venues is free and most events start from 18:00. For more visit www.first-thursdays.co.za/johannesburg/.

BRAAMFONTEIN Popular venues include the ever-hip Neighbourgoods Night Market with its gourmet street food, cocktails and live bands playing late into the night, contemporary art galleries like Kalashnikovv, Stevenson and Wits Art Museum and the independent publishers Fourthwall Books, which is the venue for book launches and wine and poetry evenings. See our guide to Braamfontein on p. 34.

ROSEBANK Joburg’s Art Gallery Row, with its wealth of top contemporary galleries all lined up along Jan Smuts Avenue, opens up on First Thursdays. Drop by for exhibition launches, walkabouts and opportunities to socialise with locals and the art world’s who’s who over a glass of wine. Visit MusicWorX café and bar for live music afterwards. See p. 48 for more on Art Gallery Row. 8

Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 01.03 TUESDAY JOHANNESBURG ART GALLERY CENTENARY JAG presents six major exhibitions simultaneously, showing off its impressive historical collection and contemporary African art by the likes of Mohau Modisakeng and William Kentridge.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, tel. +27 11 725 3130, www. friendsofjag.org. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. UNTIL 26.03 SATURDAY MINNETTE VÁRI: OF DARKNESS AND OF LIGHT Vári’s stimulating and nuanced artworks explore a range of human emotions and confront South Africa’s cultural, gender and racial stereotypes.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. UNTIL 08.05 SUNDAY D’ZAIR: DESIGN AND CRAFT FROM ALGERIA An exploration of contemporary Algerian design, illustrating the intimate relationship between design and craft.

QG-4, MOAD, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.moad-jhb.com. Open 11:00–18:00.

04.02 THURSDAY – 11.03 FRIDAY MAWANDE KA ZENZILE Ka Zenzile’s work draws on contemporary politics and culture and is concerned with the tensions and ideological differences between old and new global superpowers.QB-3, Stevenson Gallery, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 25.02 THURSDAY – 28.02 SUNDAY EXTRA ORDINARY A performance installation by Sifiso Seleme that toys with gender stereotypes, tracing a path between hope and despair.QG-4, GoetheOnMain, 245 Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe.de/goetheonmain. Open 10:00–16:00, Sat 11:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–14:00. Closed Mon. 23.02 TUESDAY – 10.04 SUNDAY ALFREDO JAAR Two exhibitions by the celebrated Chilean artist. Goodman Gallery hosts Welcome to Kalakuta Republic, dedicated to Nigerian afrobeat pioneer Fela Kuti (25.02–23.03). Wits Art Museum presents The Sound of Silence, a response to South African journalist Kevin Carter’s controversial Pulitzer Prize-winning photograph (23.02–10.04). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

02.03 WEDNESDAY – 13.04 WEDNESDAY TO BE DETERMINED Contemporary art duo Skye and Karin occupy this gallery in downtown Joburg to present an ever-changing interactive exhibition space to display different environments and their nuances.QG-4, GoetheOnMain, 245 Main St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 442 3232, www.goethe. de/goetheonmain. Open 10:00–16:00, Sat 11:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–14:00. Closed Mon. 09.03 WEDNESDAY – 29.05 SUNDAY WHEN TOMORROW COMES Prophets of doom, apocalypticism and the end of days rule the public imagination with environmental, social and economic disasters always seemingly looming on the horizon. Pre-eminent African and European artists look at the modern obsession with disaster and humankind’s future oblivion.QB-2, Wits Art Museum, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/ wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 23.04 SATURDAY – 25.06 SATURDAY KEMANG WA LEHULERE Winner of the prestigious Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year in 2015, wa Lehulere’s challenging multimedia conceptual artworks are influenced by themes of boundaries, segregation, discrimination, history, life and death.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts. co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FOOD EVENTS Pick up unique gifts and feast on delicious snacks at one of Joburg’s popular weekend markets. Favourites include Rosebank Sunday Market (Sunday 09:00–16:00) with the biggest selection of local crafts and fashion, vintage bric-a-brac, exotic food stalls and a fun atmosphere, the long-running Bryanston Organic Market (Thursday and Saturday 09:00– 15:00) known for its high-quality handmade African wares and organic foodstuffs, and the lively North West Night Market (Wednesday 16:00–22:00 and Sunday 09:00–16:00) at the quirky 27 Boxes centre in Melville which offers plenty of great local eats and a neighbourhood atmosphere. See p.

55 to read more about Joburg’s market scene.

28.02 SUNDAY AND 03.04 SUNDAY HIGH TEA AT WHITE LIGHT This beautifully converted farmhouse set amid expansive grounds and just a 30 minute drive north of Sandton makes for a memorable venue for an opulent al fresco high tea.

QWhite Light, Farm 534, Nooitgedacht, Pine Valley Rd, Lanseria, tel. +27 11 492 3888, www.theforum.co.za.

08.04 FRIDAY UNDERGROUND DINNER AT TURBINE HALL This unique pop-up dinner takes place in the spectacular Turbine Hall, a former power station which has been transformed into a magnificent events venue.QC-4, Turbine Hall, 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 3888, www.theforum.co.za.

February – April 2016

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What’s On 10.02 WEDNESDAY – 06.03 SUNDAY TOBACCO Tobacco And The Harmful Effects Thereof is based on Chekhov’s one-act play about a man who has a public breakdown during a lecture he has been harangued into giving by his domineering wife. Directed by South African theatre stalwart Sylvaine Strike and with the multi-award winning Andrew Buckland in the lead role, the play has received rave reviews for its poignant portrayal of a man desperately struggling to be heard.QMarket Theatre. Tickets R90–R180.

Giselle, Joburg Ballet

THEATRE & DANCE UNTIL 14.02 SUNDAY BAD JEWS Joshua Harmon’s hit off-Broadway satire comes to Joburg with an all South African cast directed by Greg Karvellas. A trio of close relatives are forced to spend the night together following the funeral of their beloved grandfather Poppy.

Discussion soon turns to the future of holocaust survivor Poppy’s medallion and tempers flare in a domestic battle of heritage, faith and Jewish identity.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140.

UNTIL 28.02 SUNDAY A RAISIN IN THE SUN Premiered on Broadway in 1959, Lorraine Hansberry’s drama was one of the first to bring the experiences of precivil rights African-American families to the stage. The story follows the struggles of Walter and the Younger family in the rundown South Side of Chicago. When Walter’s elderly mother inherits a large sum of money, the family’s sense of pride and identity is put on the line as mama decides to buy a house in a white neighbourhood.QMarket Theatre.

Tickets R90–R180.

UNTIL 13.03 SUNDAY SINGING IN THE RAIN An all-star toe-tapping musical. Those sitting in the front rows may wish to bring their own umbrellas as the show reportedly uses some 12,000 litres of water to recreate the song made famous by Gene Kelly in the 1952 film.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R300–R500.

24.02 WEDNESDAY – 06.03 SUNDAY DANCE UMBRELLA 2016 An outstanding contemporary dance programme, this year’s theme is collaborations and the festival features artists from Germany, Switzerland, Portugal and Russia working with South African choreographers. Highlights include Rebellion and Johannesburg (25.02, 26.02), a modern interpretation of Romeo and Juliet set in Joburg’s street subculture, Gregory Maqoma’s tender tribute to childhood, Ketima (02.03, 03.03), and Toyi Toyi (03.03, 04.03), a French-South African production mixing spoken word and dance. For the full schedule and to book tickets visit the official festival website.QTakes place at various venues. Tickets R80–R150.

29.03 TUESDAY – 16.04 SATURDAY SHAPE: A COMEDY OF VANITY, RACE AND SEX Written by South African husband-and-wife team Kate and Steven Boykey Sidley, this comedy, set in a Joburg gym, casts an astute satirical eye on three gym members and their typically South African concerns: race, gender, politics, romance and the quest for tighter abs.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140.

8.04 FRIDAY – 17.04 SUNDAY GISELLE This year marks the 175th anniversary of the much-loved romantic two-act ballet, which tells the story of Giselle, a young peasant girl who dies from a broken heart only to be resurrected by supernatural nymphs bent on snatching the life of her lost lover.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets from R180.

18.04 MONDAY – 7.05 SATURDAY A VOICE I CANNOT SILENCE An evocative and powerful examination of the life and times of famed South African author Alan Paton, mixing scenes from iconic works such as Cry, The Beloved Country (1948) and Tales From A Troubled Land with excerpts from Paton’s autobiography. The play creates a dramatic portrait of the man described as a ‘lighthouse in the South African twilight’.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140. * For all venues listed here, see p. 12.

EVENT TICKETS Computicket, online.computicket.com Webtickets, www.webtickets.co.za Ticketpro www.ticketpros.co.za

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SHOP FOR THE MOST EXCITING AFRICAN FASHION, DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE BRANDS AT WORK SHOP NEW TOWN. OVER 100 DESIGNERS HOUSED IN ONE HISTORIC BUILDING, including

Black Coffee / Crystal Birch / Kisua / Gold Street LA Hey Gorgeous / Kat van Duinen / Maria McCloy / MaXhosa Pichulik / Unknown Union / Wolf & Maiden NEWTOWN JUNCTION 100 Carr Street Newtown Johannesburg

O P E N I N G

H O U R S

MONDAY to FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

11am - 7pm 10am - 7pm 10am - 4pm

What’s On COMEDY South Africans find humour in even the most frustrating moments, and Joburg has its fair share of great comedians. If you like stand-up, check out the weekly The Box night at POPArt Theatre in Maboneng (every Sunday at 19:30), or The Bassline Comedy Night, a monthly twohour stand-up showcase (last Friday of the month from 19:00 at Bassline). For improv there’s the monthly Jittery Citizens session at the Market Theatre (last Sunday of the month at 15:15).

26.02 FRIDAY – 27.02 SATURDAY BITCHES BE BACK Described as South Africa’s greatest all-girl stand-up and sketch show, starring the ‘First Lady of South African comedy’ Tumi Morake, ‘Queen of Zulu comedy’ Celeste Ntuli, and 94.7 Radio’s much-loved drive-time DJ Anele Mdoda.

QCarnival City. Tickets TBA.

William Kentridge, Goodman Gallery

VENUE ADDRESS BOOK AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901, www.theatreonthesquare.co.za BASSLINE B-4 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za CARNIVAL CITY Cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www.carnivalcitycasino.co.za EMPERORS PALACE 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre.com MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www.montecasino.co.za NASREC EXPO CENTRE Cnr Nasrec and Rand Show Rds, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 494 1920, www.expocentre.co.za NIROX SCULPTURE PARK 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, www.acousticsnow.org POPART THEATRE G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040,www.popartcentre.co.za TICKETPRO DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www.ticketprodome.co.za 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

04.03 FRIDAY – 06.03 SUNDAY MELROSE ARCH COMEDY FESTIVAL Joburg’s newest comedy club launches at the upmarket shopping and lifestyle centre Melrose Arch with this music and comedy festival that promises to attract some of South Africa’s top acts.QThe Goliath Comedy Club, Roast Café, 10A High St, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 10 020 3678, goliathandgoliath. Tickets TBA.

CINEMA For Hollywood blockbusters there’s Nu Metro (tel. 0861 24 63 62, www.numetro.co.za, locations include Hyde Park Corner and Montecasino) and Ster Kinekor (tel. +27 82 167 89, www.sterkinekor.com, locations include Sandton City, Newtown Junction and the Zone@Rosebank). For a luxury experience try Ster Kinekor’s Cinema Prestige in Rosebank or Sandton. For indie, arthouse and foreign language films there is Cinema Nouveau in Rosebank Mall (also operated by Ster Kinekor) and the tiny independent cinema The Bioscope in Maboneng, which is particularly good for documentaries and African film (G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za).

THE MET LIVE IN HD The Metropolitan Opera comes to the big screen. This season focuses on the works of Puccini with a screening of live performances of Turandot (19.02), Manon Lescaut (25.03) and Madame Butterfly (22.04).QCinema Nouveau Rosebank.

12.03 SATURDAY – 19.03 SATURDAY RAPID LION INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Hoping to become the leading film festival in the country, the inaugural Rapid Lion South African International Film Festival premieres major new local films, world cinema features, documentaries and arthouse short films.QMarket Theatre and Newtown Junction, www. rapidlion.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

RUGBY Ellis Park Rugby Museum

CRICKET The 34 000-capacity Bidvest Wanderers Stadium, also fondly known as the ‘Bull Ring’, has a string of record-breaking stats to its name, including the fastest ever ODI century, hit from just 31 balls by South Africa’s A.B. de Villiers in 2015. There are plenty of food and drinks stands to choose from. Download the Appetite app to order and have your refreshments delivered straight to your seat. The smaller SuperSportPark near Pretoria is known for its wide grassy banks, family-friendly atmosphere and one of the most unusual viewing areas in the sport – the Castle Corner Terrace swimming pool. Buy tickets and view fixture details online at cricket.co.za.

9.02 12.02 17.02 21.02 6.03

ODI SA vs England. SuperSportPark ODI SA vs England. Bidvest Wanderers Stadium Momentum One Day Cup, Unlimited Titans vs bizhub Highveld Lions. SuperSportPark T20 SA vs England. Bidvest Wanderers Stadium T20 SA vs Australia. Bidvest Wanderers Stadium

BIDVEST WANDERERS STADIUM 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, www.wanderers.co.za SUPERSPORTPARK Centurion West Rd, Centurion, Pretoria, www.titans.co.za

FOOTBALL The PSL is South Africa’s top football league. Soweto teams Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates and Tshwane’s Mamelodi Sundowns have long dominated the league. Pirates home ground is the Orlando Stadium, while Chiefs play at FNB Stadium. Joburg’s own team Bidvest Wits, nicknamed ‘the clever boys’, are based at Wits University. Stadiums usually only fill to capacity when the biggest teams play, although no matter the occasion you’ll always hear lots of vuvuzelas.

To view upcoming fixtures, see www.psl.co.za.

06.02, 18:00 09.02, 19:30

Kaizer Chiefs vs Maritzburg Utd Bidvest Wits vs Kaizer Chiefs (Bidvest Stadium) 10.02, 19:30 Orlando Pirates vs Mamelodi Sundowns 23.02, 19:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs Polokwane City 27.02, 20:15 Orlando Pirates vs Bloem Celtic 12.03, 20:15 Orlando Pirates vs Jomo Cosmos facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Rugby is one of the country’s most popular sports and the trials and tribulations of the national team, the Springboks, are followed by most. Joburg’s team, the victorious Highveld Lions, play at the famous Emirates Airline Park (still popularly known by its previous moniker Ellis Park). The stadium holds a special place in sporting history as it was here that in 1995 Nelson Mandela took to the pitch wearing the Springbok jersey to present the Rugby World Cup trophy to the South African team. Take a behind-the-scenes tour of this most legendary stadium and visit the charming Ellis Park Rugby Museum, which contains the biggest collection of Springbok and South African rugby memorabilia (call ahead to book).

18.03 1.04 15.04 29.04

Lions vs Cheetahs. Kick off at 17:05 Lions vs Crusaders. Kick off at 20:00 Lions vs Stormers. Kick off at 20:10 Lions vs Hurricanes. Kick off at 18:05

EMIRATES AIRLINE PARK G-3, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein. Ellis Park Rugby Museum open weekdays 10:00– 15:00 (entrance via main gate). Call James Dalton on +27 82 791 9992 to book a visit. Tickets R50, kids R20.

16.03, 19:30 09.04, 20:15 16.04, 20:15 26.04, 19:30

Bidvest Wits vs Orlando Pirates Orlando Pirates vs Free State Stars Kaizer Chiefs vs Ajax Cape Town Orlando Pirates vs Polokwane City

BIDVEST WITS STADIUM Wits University East Campus (parking entrance on Yale Rd via Empire Rd), Braamfontein, www.bidvestwits.co.za FNB STADIUM Nasrec Rd, Nasrec, www.kaizerchiefs.com ORLANDO STADIUM Cnr Martha Louw and Mooki Sts, Orlando, Soweto

GOLF 11.02 – 14.02 TSHWANE OPEN The Tshwane Open, which forms part of the Sunshine Tour and is co-sanctioned with the European Tour, attracts many of South Africa’s top golfers as well as visiting professionals. For more on what to do in and around Pretoria, see p. 52.QPretoria Country Club, 241 Sidney St, Waterkloof, www.tshwaneopen.co.za.

February – April 2016

13

Districts A-Z

Joburg mine dump

BRAAMFONTEIN ‘Braam’ is Joburg’s uber-cool party central, full of fixie-bike hipster cyclists, gourmet coffee, art galleries, rooftop bars, limited-edition brand stores and students from the nearby university campus (see p. 34).

MABONENG Inner-city regeneration in action, this district has been converted from rundown industrial buildings into a happening lifestyle playground that is constantly in a state of reinvention. Here you’ll find plenty of street art, cool local fashion boutiques, artist studios, hip cafés and bars.

MELVILLE Joburg’s ‘bohemian suburb’, famed for its quirky independent restaurants and shops, alternative hangouts such as 27 Boxes (see p. 54), a shopping centre made from shipping-containers, and the busy nightlife strip 7th Street.

ROSEBANK At its centre is the Rosebank Mall and a network of neat pedestrianised streets and walkways, lined with lots of dining, entertainment and retail options, including an extensive African craft market (see p. 53).

SANDTON Corporate central and luxury hotel headquarters with enough shopping to satisfy anyone, from West African oil billionaires to manicured socialites and tourists.

New offices and luxury apartment blocks continue to fill the skyline in this wealthy business district dubbed ‘Africa’s richest square mile’.

SOWETO Rich in history, South Africa’s biggest and most famous township was at the forefront of the struggle against apartheid. Soweto’s tourism industry is well developed, offering everything from home stays and tuk-tuk tours to hipster markets and bungee jumping (see p. 49).

Mark Straw

Joburg is a city of diverse districts. The city centre (‘innercity’ or ‘town’) is still the victim of a poor reputation, although there have been dramatic improvements in recent years. The revitalised Main Street Mining District is the place to learn about the city’s gold rush past, and the historic Newtown district has a vibrant cultural and social life (see p. 54). On the western edge of the city centre is the colourful Indian district Fordsburg, while the city’s leafy older suburbs spread out to the north, each with its own distinctive For café culture visit pretty suburAll text addedatmosphere. in InDesign ban high streets like Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue, Tyrone Avenue in Parkview or 7th Street in Linden (p. 31). Here’s our guide to the most popular districts for visitors; for a full online guide, go to iyp.me/370c.

JOBURG DISTRICTS

N1

Cradle of Humankind (28km) – NW Lanseria (47km) – NW Pretoria (59km) – NE Sun City (128km) – NW Kruger Park (495km) – E Durban (568km) – SE Cape Town (1,397km) – SW

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johannesburg.inyourpocket.com 2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM

Quick picks

Get lost among the millions of books, trinkets, prints, antiques, maps and vinyl records that line every available surface at Collector’s Treasury (p. 56), said to be the largest secondhand and rare bookshop in Africa.

Braamfontein

Cool down with a frozen vodka shot or cocktail in the courtyard at Lenin’s Vodka Bar (p. 38). To uncover the area’s most unusual hangouts, join MainStreetWalks’s monthly Underground Pub Crawl (p. 48).

Maboneng

For contemporary and historic African art, visit Wits Art Museum (p. 35). Braamfontein is at its liveliest on First Thursdays (p. 8), with popup parties, exhibition openings, a night market and free gigs.

In a converted 1930s warehouse, Che Argentine Grill (p. 28) mixes urban and rustic with its candle-lit interiors, faded industrial signage and juicy steaks cooked over a wood-fired parrilla.

Melville

Take your pick from the many bars clustered on the corner of Juta and De Beer Streets, such as the stylish Anti Est (p. 37) and The Bannister Bar (p. 37) or late-night haunts Great Dane (p. 38) and Kitchener’s (p. 37).

After a tour of one of Joburg’s most important heritage landmarks, Constitution Hill (p. 46), digest all that history over a lazy lunch at The Hill (p. 37) café in the prison yard of the old colonial fort.

For local flavour you can’t beat For a late and lively Lucky Bean restaurant (p. 24), a night out on 7th Melville institution. Relax on the Street, Melville’s outdoor patio as you sample an nightlife hub, head ostrich burger or springbok pie to Hell’s Kitchen cooked to perfection, accompanied (p. 39), an American-style whisky by a fine selection of wines or craft bar with an epic rock soundtrack beer. and an adjoining barbershop.

Rosebank

Do

Take your pick from the best range of quality fast food at the Zone@ Rosebank (p. 53), including lots of halaal options. Favourites include Chiapas’s burritos, salads at Kauai and, for dessert, Krispy Kreme doughnuts.

Escape the crowds at The Terrace (p. 38) courtyard cigar and wine bar at the Hyatt Regency hotel. Settle in under the trees at this discreet and calming oasis with a glass of wine and enjoy the soothing sounds of tweeting birds.

Discover the best of the South African contemporary art scene by exploring the galleries on Art Gallery Row (p. 48). If you are here on a Sunday a visit to the Rosebank Sunday Market (p. 55) is a must.

Sandton

Drink

The newly upgraded Nelson Mandela Square is a tourist magnet for its iconic statue. New to the square and worth trying are The Big Mouth (p. 27) for tasty sushi platters, and the flagship Tasha’s café with its Africaninspired menu (p. 29).

Ten minutes’ drive from central Sandton, Kramerville design district has some fun, quirky bars.

Antiques-filled Sir James van der Merwe (p. 40) is a fun place for mid-week sundowners every Wednesday.

For labels galore, shop till you drop at the designer stores in Sandton City’s Diamond Walk (p.

57). For diamonds, book an appointment at the exclusive jewel boutique Bryllianta (p. 56).

Soweto

Eat

Plan your visit around Soweto’s hip weekend market Locrate (p. 51) with its food trucks and fashion stalls, or the Soweto Art & Craft Fair (p. 51), where you can try a traditional Sowetan Seven Colours Sunday meal.

Meet the locals, visit Vilakazi (p. 51) is Soweto’s most shebeens and learn happening street. Get tips on what’s about Soweto’s new in the township at the friendly incredible history Soweto Travel Bar (p. 49), try the first hand on a cocktails at NexDor, or listen to two-hour, four-hour local house beats at KwaLichaba or full-day bicycle or pub. tuk-tuk tour with Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tours (p. 50).

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Hang out at 27 Boxes (p. 54), a boutique shopping centre made entirely of shipping containers.

Browse the cool local fashion and design stores, and chill out in the amphitheatre with some homemade ice-cream.

February – April 2016

15

Arriving & Getting Around

Joburg nightscape Justin Lee Joburg has a large public transport system that is currently and constantly being upgraded to include new bus routes and cycle lanes. Services like the Gautrain linking Joburg City Centre, Sandton, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport have proven particularly popular. Depending on the length of your stay you might find that renting a car makes life easier as outside the city centre there are entire neighbourhoods that can be difficult or impossible to reach with public transport and not all services are reliable.

FLYING AND AIRPORTS Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart.

USEFUL APPS UBER The international taxi booking app Uber operates in Joburg. Download the app and register to find and order cabs anywhere in the city, at any time. * First-time users should use our special discount code worth R130 off your first ride (see p. 3) when downloading the app.

ACSA The Airports Company South Africa (ACSA) operates all of the country’s major airports. Download the free app to receive live flight updates, weather bulletins, check-in online, find useful contact numbers and guide yourself around the airport by GPS. GAUTRAIN If you plan to use the Gautrain during your visit, this is a very useful accessory. Check up-to-date timetables, access route maps, view tariffs and track where your nearest Gautrain bus is (see box on p. 17).

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose the same restrictions on carrying liquids so you won’t have to leave your wine or sunscreen at the airport.

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern, and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a wide range of stores, including a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals – A and B. The check-in for domestic and South African Airways (SAA) flights is at Terminal B. For security purposes have your bags safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your bag to staff at the check-in counter.

Make sure to check in early if you have outsize luggage like sports equipment. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, a national hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.

A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo Airport costs R142. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus.

Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, www.jiata.co.za) start from R15.50 p/km. Follow the signs in the airport to the taxi booking office.

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za.

Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles.

AIRPORT PARKING For discount airport valet parking there is Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines.

SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa. com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www. britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 086 158 5852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget) QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango. com. Safair (budget)QTel. +27 11 928 0000, www.safair. co.za. Fly Africa (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8101, flyafrica. com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww. travelstart.co.za.

GETTING AROUND DRIVING IN JOBURG Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the lefthand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system is in place (see www.nra.co.za for costs).

GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) is Joburg’s pride and joy. It links central Johannesburg with the main business districts of the north and beyond to Pretoria and O.R.Tambo Airport. Prices vary according to distance and time of day. Peak rates apply on weekdays between 06:00–08:30 and 15:30–18:00.

GAUTRAIN GOLD CARD To use the Gautrain you must first buy a Gautrain Gold Card for R14, available at all stations. Top up your card at the kiosks or self-service machines. You need a minimum of R20 loaded to use the card. The Gold Card can also be used on the Gautrain buses and for the Gautrain car park. Note you must make a return train journey to be eligible for the special discounted parking rates.

GAUTRAIN ROUTES The Gautrain has three lines. The main line starts at Johannesburg Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro. The third line is a commuter service between Sandton and Rhodesfield via Marlboro. Trains run daily from 05:30–20:30 at intervals of 12–30 minutes. On weekdays the first train leaves from Sandton to the airport at 04:50 and the last train departs from the airport at 21:04.

CAR RENTAL Car rental companies are based at both airports, and most have drop-off points in Rosebank and Sandton near the Gautrain stations (check when you make your booking). Reservations for Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire can be made through Africarhire.QTel. +27 21 657 1000, www.africarhire.com. Open 08:30–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. RentAWreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00.

Closed Sun. The AA Travel Experience store provides touring maps, travel insurance, accessories and cross-border documentation.QShop G02 Benmore Gardens, cnr Grayston Dr and Benmore Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 4104.

GAUTRAIN BUSES Each Gautrain station is linked to a series of Gautrain buses using the same card. If you use the train within one hour of the bus, the bus fare is R6 (R1 off-peak), otherwise it costs R19 (R14 off-peak). On the most popular routes buses leave every 12–20mins, otherwise buses leave every 20–40mins. Buses generally run between 06:00 and 19:30 on weekdays only.

Bus route maps and timetables can be found at each Gautrain station and online at www.gautrain.co.za.

Buses can also be tracked using the Gautrain app or the Gautrain hotline on 0800 428 87246. Useful bus routes Sandton–Fourways via Montecasino (also available on weekends), Sandton–Rivonia, Rosebank–Melrose Arch, Rosebank–Hyde Park, Park Station–CBD (via Main Street Mining District and Carlton Centre).

BUSES The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Modelled on similar systems in Latin America, the Rea Vaya is part of the city’s Corridors of Freedom project and is gradually being expanded, with future routes planned to link the City Centre with Sandton Central and Alexandra township. Currently the Rea Vaya

runs between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. Single journey tickets and smartcards (which can be loaded with money for journeys), can usually be purchased inside the bus stops. Buses arrive every 10-20 minutes and generally run between 06:00–18:30.Qwww.reavaya.org.za.

Useful routes The circular City Centre C–3 route passes

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February – April 2016

17

Arriving & Getting Around

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank

MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

many major tourist sights as well as Park Station. The C–5 and T–3 (westbound) from Park Station stop in Milpark near 44 Stanley (see p. 56).

The Metrobus is the creaking old workhorse of the city’s transport system, ferrying commuters from the suburbs to the City Centre and back. Only recommended for the most adventurous travellers. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St) where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information. The majority of buses depart in the early morning (06:00–09:30) and late afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Fares start at R10 and are paid directly to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked.

Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters

PARK STATION Park Station in the City Centre is Joburg’s main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the station. An estimated one million people use the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport hub in southern Africa.

NAVIGATING THE CITY Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address. Always check whether numbered street names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues. The names of major thoroughfares are undergoing renaming and these changes often do not keep pace with the erection of new street-name signs or with GPS devices. See map on p. 64 for details.

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by displaying the appropriate hand signal. The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at the ranks as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using them at night or alone. Hand the exact fare to the driver – R8 to R10 for short journeys – in coins or notes. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually the easiest way. Although using them can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers minibus taxis offer great insight into everyday South African life.

TAXIS Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night out.

There are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150.

Smartphone users should download the Uber app and firsttimers should use our discount code on p. 3. The following taxi companies are generally reliable and run on meters: Orange CabsQTel. 086 170 0222, www.orangecab.co.za.

Quick CabQTel. 086 166 5566, www.myquickcab.co.za.

TUK-TUKS Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of R50. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za.

Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius, which can get you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.

TRANSFERS AND TOURS For transfers, tours and chauffeur services, contact The Joburg Squirrel.QTel. +27 73 083 6416, www. oembotutravel.co.za.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and the city is working to develop new bike lanes, already usable in Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. Plans are in place to extend these to Park Station, Ellis Park, Sandton and Alexandra. For the most up-todate information on cycle routes, go to www.juca.org.za.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods such as Melville or Parkhurst are also great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide and don’t cross the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered manholes, whether on foot or bike. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

The Bannister Hotel, Braamfontein

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options in the city, and each offers something distinctive. Joburg was built for mining gold so most established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency is favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s OneNineOne restaurant (see p. 23) opens onto a green and shaded courtyard perfect for sipping cocktails or enjoying a delicious meal far from the madding crowd (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www. johannesburg. regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms).

It’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www. intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms), while Sandton’s grande dame, the newly renovated Sandton Sun, is a Champagne bar away from Diamond Walk, home to the world’s swankiest fashion stores awaiting your credit card or briefcase of cash (cnr Fifth and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www. tsogosunhotels. 326 rooms). If pure leisure is what you seek, then Joburg’s newest hotel, Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-dead-gorgeous views of this most-treed city make it a summer sundowners destination (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www. fourseasons.com/ johannesburg. 117 rooms), plus you’ll want to sample the newly introduced afternoon tea (see p. 33). At the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Housed on the property that was once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn (who is building Steyn City, a new city

BICYCLE TOURS, TUK-TUK TOURS, BACKPACKERS & OUR NEW "OUTDOOR RESTAURANT" tel: 011 936 3444 · lebo@sowetobackpackers.com www.sowetobackpackers.com · www.sowetobicycletours.com

JOHANNESBURG’S BEST GUESTHOUSES

ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A range of affordable accommodation options centrally located in and around the suburbs of Rosebank.

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February – April 2016

19

Where to stay BOUTIQUE HOTELS

Ilali House, Johannesburg Guesthouses

of his own in the north), it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. 53 rooms).

For mixing business and pleasure there’s the flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch with its excellent breakfast menu, Davidoff Cool Water-scented lobby, and table set for lunch in the swimming pool (1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.africanpride hotels.com. 118 rooms), and the intimate and chic 54 On Bath hotel that has a boutique-hotel feel and a Champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location and show the best of modern Joburg (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www. tsogosunhotels.com/54-onbath. 75 rooms). The olde-world opulent Palazzo Montecasino, a regular on the list of World Luxury Hotel award winners, is where you might get to rub shoulders with international celebrities. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions such as a comedy club, cinema and theatre, Palazzo also has exquisite gardens for escaping it all, plus a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a most memorable trip (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo.

246 rooms).

BEST OF BRAAMFONTEIN To enjoy Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere and the hipster capital’s many attractions (see p. 34 for our recommendations), book into one of these stylish budget hotels. Both are within easy walking distrance from the popular Saturday Neighbourgoods Market, art galleries, bars and restaurants. The vibrant Hotel Lamunu, with its distinctive orange facade, is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities for its lively atmosphere and brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures (C-2, 90 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.lamunu.com. 60 rooms). The Bannister Hotel is a hipster delight with a buzzing bar filled with cool kids (C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za.

31 rooms).

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The Residence caters to Champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, www. theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Also in Houghton, Ten Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of Joburg’s older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide a perfect urban refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2400 www.houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms).

Choose from an array of individually decorated suites at Ten Bompas and try its restaurant, Winehouse, (see p.

25) for superb bistro dining (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.tenbompas.com. 10 suites). The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech.co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House (see p. 47) has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1907, and is a tasteful and precious bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS For a business hotel with a resort feel, the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine.

Its relaxed Lord’s Cigar Bar (see p. 38) is popular for a latenight tipple (20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). The fashion pack hang out in the Austin Powers-style lobby of the Crowne Plaza The Rosebank (cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www.therosebank. co.za. 318 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/melrose. 197 rooms).

Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 identical one-bedroom suites is a conference destination in the city with a 360-degree skyline view from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors (see p. 43), Thaba Eco Hotel (see p. 44) is set in a nature reserve and offers game walks and drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel (see p. 45) is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

4-star luxury guest house.

Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor.

Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

Braamfontein, Johannesburg

GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation options in the Rosebank area. See their booking website www.johannesburgguesthouses.co.za. Owner Liz Delmont of award-winning Liz at Lancaster is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has also thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

In Melville traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas ticks ’authentic South African‘ boxes (66 6th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za. 14 rooms).

Nearby is the tasteful Lucky Bean Guesthouse (see p. 24), in a quiet tree-lined street, sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www.luckybeanguesthouse. co.za. 9 rooms). For contemporary cool, seek out Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi.co.za. 6 rooms).

BACKPACKER HOSTELS If you are planning to overnight in Soweto, the celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is also a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beach-style bar – you can almost smell the rum and coconut oil – and an open-air restaurant in the park that Lebo and team long ago transformed from a dump site to a safe and green haven for backpackers, and kids and neighbours from the surrounding community (see our Soweto picks on p. 49). Owner Lebo Malepa’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours of Soweto are a must-do (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds).

If it’s happening in Maboneng – and it always is – Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado, who also runs MainStreetWalks tour company. Curiocity hosts livemusic events, has a popular bar and braai stand and also offers urban camping on the rooftops of the Maboneng precinct (G-4, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163, www. curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Lamunu Hotel 90 De Korte Street, Braamfontein, Johannesburg, 2017 +27 (0) 11 242 8600 reservations@lamunu.com www.lamunu.com

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Where to eat

OneNineOne, Hyatt Regency Joburg offers everything, from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine. In our listings we have tried to highlight a mix of both fine-dining experiences and off-the-beatentrack adventures. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

AWARD WINNERS In recent years inventive young chefs and the availability of excellent local produce have combined to put the South African fine-dining scene firmly on the world map. What’s more, South Africa’s weak currency means that international visitors are getting great value on those extravagant gourmet tasting menus offered at the city’s top restaurants.

The annual Mercedes-Benz Eat Out awards are the most coveted in the country, and Joburg has no less than four chefs who have been given the nod in last year’s awards, among them David Higgs, formerly of Five Hundred, who is opening his own restaurant in Rosebank this autumn.

Other much-awarded gourmet destinations include: DW ELEVEN-13 Classic cuisine with a global twist, and a sedate but upmarket ambience. Chef Marthinus Ferreira occasionally plays with modern molecular techniques, but his strength is classy comfort food and a bistronomy cooking style. Reservations required.QDunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0663, www.dw11-13.co.za. Open lunch 12:00– 14:30 and dinner 18:30–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. Closed Mon. RRRR. ELW MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT Chef Chantel Dartnall has garnered more accolades than she can count. She offers both à la carte and tasting menus at this restaurant in an eccentrically decorated luxury boutique hotel 45 minutes’ drive from Joburg.

Dartnell’s style is eclectic and her dishes are delicate 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

yet layered with clear flavours and high technical skill.

QFrancolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein (near Pretoria), tel. +27 12 371 2902, www.restaurantmosaic.com. Open Fri, Sat lunch and dinner. Sun lunch only. Lunch is 12:30–16:00, dinner 19:00–23:00. Wed and Thu group bookings only.

Closed Mon, Tue. From R575 for a five-course set menu.

UBLW THE TEST KITCHEN POP-UP NEW Head chef David Higgs recently left the Saxon Hotel’s ultraluxurious Five Hundred to open his own restaurant, leaving space for Luke Dale-Roberts of Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (voted 28 in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants) to open a pop-up restaurant here that will run until the end of April.

Reservations essential.QSaxon Hotel, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. Open 18:30–24:00 (last reservations 20:30). Closed Sun, Mon. THE SOCIAL KITCHEN & BAR NEW Take one of Joburg’s most popular book shops, two visionary architects, a chef who has worked at three three-star Michelin restaurants and a new chain bookstore owner, Benjamin Trisk of Exclusive Books, who has a love for the good things in life. It’s a recipe for a show-stopping space that includes a bookstore, coffee house and restaurant with expansive views across the treed suburbs, bringing together two of life’s greatest comforts: books and food. The books flow into the restaurant, a lively semi-industrial space clawed back from Hyde Park Corner shopping centre’s parking lot.

The interior is inviting with Moroccan tiles and parquet, mismatched furniture pieces and a luxury lounge. Chef Russell Armstrong’s tapas-style menu is sophisticated but utterly comforting. Dishes include panzanella and slow-cooked 72hour short ribs, a feather-light salmon mousse and creamy mushroom risotto.QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave & William Nicol Dr, Craighall, tel. +27 11 268 6039, EBSocialKitchenAndBar. Open 12:00–22:00. RR-RRR. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

CONTEMPORARY DINING For a classy and memorable meal with polished service but without the fussy tasting menus and stratospheric prices, try one of these upmarket restaurants.

THE LEOPARD A small menu of innovative dishes made using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Known as the enfant terrible of Joburg cuisine, chef and owner Andrea Burgener’s quirky style is simultaneously cool yet comforting, international and authentic.

French and Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian flavours and African culinary classics.Q63A 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com.

Open 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50–R70. For pre-2006 wines R25. B ONENINEONE With its open kitchen, cool facebrick interiors and photographs of jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant led by celebrity chef Andrew Atkinson offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The threecourse menu is seasonal with local ingredients fused with flavours influenced by a range of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern. Retire to The Terrace Cigar & Wine Bar for a nightcap (see p. 38).QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Breakfast buffet 06:30–10:30, Sat, Sun 06:30–11:00. Lunch, dinner 12:30–22:00, closed Sun. RRRR. TLBW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

WINEHOUSE The decor is chic bistro, the setting warm, the service personalised. Fans of fine dining will enjoy chef Johannes de Bruijn’s unfussy approach. Winehouse is also named for its extensive wine collection mostly from South African farms with some French labels that include limited auction editions. The restaurant’s name was inspired by a painting of Amy Winehouse the owners found on a trip to France.QTen Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0282, www. tenbompas.com. Open daily for breakfast 07:00–12:00, Mon–Sat lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner from 18:00. Sun breakfast and lunch only. RRRR. UW

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Based on average main course. No prices for cafés given.

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Where to eat PORTUGUESE 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. Authentic and family friendly, Portuguese knickknacks abound. The kitchen closes early (20:30), but its worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawns and calamari.

QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:00–15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30). Closed Mon. RR.

Troyeville Hotel, Troyeville

AFRICAN From Cameroonian grilled fish and Soweto-style chisa nyama to Ethiopian injeera with delicious vegetarian stews, there’s plenty of African food to be found. It’s not a strict definition as there’s a lot of African-influenced food too, whether it’s the Indian curries influenced by local cooking styles or Mozambican-style Portuguese food. For cuisinefocused walking tours see Dlala Nje (Yeoville and Hillbrow) and Ancient Secrets on p. 48 (Fordsburg, Ethiopian Quarter, Mayfair). For places to eat in Soweto, see p. 51.

DISTRICT 6 EATERY (D6) A colourful kitsch backdrop celebrates the friendly owner’s childhood in District Six – a vibrant multi-cultural Cape Town neighbourhood that was destroyed by apartheid – and the food pays tribute to Cape Malay cuisine. Indian Ocean spices find their local expression in a small menu of traditional dishes such as bredie (stew) and bobotie (curried minced meat baked with a rich savoury custard).Q35 Greenhill Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 7226. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:30. Closed Mon. RRR. (Corkage R15). B LITTLE ADDIS CAFÉ A hole-in-the-wall-sized shrine to Ethiopian cuisine on Maboneng’s busiest street. Try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injera bread, giving you the chance to sample a variety of speciality dishes, all made according to the owner’s family recipes.QG-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 683 8675, www.littleaddis.co.za. Open 12:30– 21:00, Sun 12:30–18:00 (also at Market on Main). Closed Mon. R. LUCKY BEAN Popular for its South African dishes such as springbok pie as well as its broad vegetarian selection, this laidback bar and restaurant is a Melville institution. For the full South African experience pre-book the six course wine pairing menu which includes such treats as traditional melk tert and an inventive ‘ostrich bobotie spring roll’. Look out for the live music events, and make sure to book for these.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckyb.co.za. Open 11:00 until last guest. Closed Mon. RRR. EB 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TROYEVILLE HOTEL The unfussy Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence never disappoints – order a plate of spicy prawns, wash it down with a Laurentina beer and see for yourself.

This authentically dated hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville has a lot of cred with local political activists and artists, and hosts regular book evenings. Guarded parking at the rear entrance.Q1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (Cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:30–22:00. RR. BE PARREIRINHA Named after the little grapevine inside the restaurant, Parreirinha is an unpretentious and hugely popular spot, located in an old police station. Full of character and colour, it’s worth travelling south for a drawn-out meal here. Booking is essential. The flavoursome speciality dishes such as the bacalhau (cod), prawn cakes and delicious prawns have plenty of Mozambican influence (garlic and chilli).Q9 6th St (Augusta Rd), La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50.

INDIAN BAPS SHAYONAS This vegetarian restaurant, deli and spice shop is the catering arm of the Hindu Swaminarayan Temple. The restaurant is abuzz with locals stocking up on Indian street food (chaat), sweetmeats, spices and imports from India. The masala dosa is the best in town. Weekends are very busy but still the best time to go.Q74 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 837 2407, www.shayona.co.za. Open 09:30–20:00, Fri, Sat 09:30– 21:00, Sun 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon. R. CORNUCOPIA A busy lunch time stop for Durban-style curries and all kinds of bunny chows – a typically South African dish of Indian curry served in a hollowed out loaf of bread topped with spicy pickle. Some might find their curries a little mild, but there’s no mistaking the depth of flavour. The layout is very informal – part curry cafe, part corner shop. You can also pick up coffee, magazines, chocolates, airtime and other basics.QDunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 268 1937, www. cornucopiadunkeld.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat 08:00– 15:00, Sun 08:00–13:00. R. B johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat THAVA Despite its large size, this smartly decorated Indian restaurant really does fill up. At Thava the spice is just right.

The hot and crispy naan breads fresh from the traditional kiln are ideal for mopping up the traditional curries made with a south Indian influence. Portions are generous and all dishes can be ordered in main meal or tapas sizes, ideal for sharing.Q44 The Avenue (cnr Grove Rd), Norwood, tel. +27 11 728 2826. Open 10:00–22:00 (closed 15:30– 17:30). RR. BS

MIDDLE EASTERN TETA MARI For the best shakshouka breakfast (a dish of poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) there’s this stylish café with a sunny outdoor deck and a menu that mixes traditional Israeli and New York classics. Kosher dishes available at extra cost.Q5A Illovo Square, Cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019, Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. RR. B EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor of this intimate eatery is inspired and constantly evolving, and the tables along the pavement offer a good view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings or the excellent shawarma salad and order a freshly pressed juice to go with it.QCnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www.eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. SB TURKISH KEBAB HOUSE & BUTCHERY Head off the beaten track to Mayfair. This canteen-style restaurant has a wide Turkish menu and the halaal meats are roasted over hot coals right there on the pavement. Order a grilled platter for two with fresh salads, dips and roti, and there’ll be plenty left over to take home. Try to save space for the Turkish desserts.Q79 Church St, Mayfair, tel. +27 11 025 1123. Open 08:45–19:30, Fri, Sat 08:45–20:30.

R-RR. B KING ARABIC SANDWICH This humble bakery and café run by a Palestinian refugee family has the best hummus and falafel. Choose from delicious pies, shawarmas and stuffed pita breads (‘Arabic sandwiches’), and look out for traditional specialities like maklooba and qedrah, a kind of Arabic biryani.QKing Arabic Sandwich, Cnr Hanover St and 9th Ave, Mayfair, tel. +27 74 292 6191, Open 08:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00– 22:00. Closed Mon. SCHWARMA COMPANY Set over two storeys this fully licensed spot is always packed. Feast your eyes on towering displays of olives and other Middle Eastern staples to accompany your lamb, chicken or beef shawarma.Q71 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 1776, schwarmacompany.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00. RR. Corkage fee R50. TUBS facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February – April 2016

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Where to eat

Chinese New Year Mark Straw

ASIAN FOOD Anna Trapido is the author of ‘Hunger For Freedom, The Story of Food in the Life of Nelson Mandela’, and ‘To the Banqueting House: African Cuisine, An Epic Journey’.

She is also the former editor of ‘Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015’.

If you have already failed to stick to your New Year’s resolutions, reset your cultural clock by celebrating Chinese or Korean New Year (February 8) and Thai Songkran (April 13–15). Follow this guide for an all-you-can-eat buffet of good fortune Asian New Year gourmet goodies across Joburg.

KOREAN NEW YEAR Eumnyeok Seolnal marks the first day of the Korean lunar calendar, almost always sharing a date with the Chinese Lunar New Year (every 24 years the new moon occurs between Korean and Chinese midnight so you can celebrate on consecutive days).

Children wish their elders a happy new year by performing one deep traditional bow and saying the words ‘saehae bok mani badeuseyo’ (translated as ‘please receive a lot of luck in the new year’). Today this gesture is typically rewarded with a small gift of money, but the traditional practice of giving gifts of rice cakes (ddeok or tteok) persists in some communities.

Korean restaurants and grocery stores are less com26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

mon than Chinese food sources in Joburg, but most Chinese supermarkets have a Korean corner. Ready-made ddeok are found frozen and fresh in the bakery section at Rivonia Asian Supermarket (Ground Floor, Oriental City, cnr 9th Ave and Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 8900). This magnificent pan-Asian epicurean emporium also keeps Korean short grain rice flour to make your own, as does Market Kokoro (Rivonia Junction, Rivonia Blvd, tel. +27 11 79 756 0814). Steyn’s Culinary School in Pretoria offers Korean cooking classes (345 Glyn St, Hatfield, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 362 5340, www.steynsculinaryschool.co.za).

At New Year, Korean families set out a table replete with delicious dishes presented to ancestral spirits. Following the rite, the food is eaten by the living. The main dish is a ganjan-seasoned soup called ddeokguk containing rice cakes, julienned cooked eggs and marinated meat. After consuming it Koreans consider themselves to be a year older so it is common to ask a Korean their age by asking, ‘How many servings of ddeokguk have you had?’ Koreana makes magnificent ddeok rice cakes and ddeokguk soup (The Square, cnr Naivasha and Leeukop Rds, Sunninghill, tel. +27 11 234 5425).

CHINESE NEW YEAR Chinese New Year is celebrated with fanfare and dragon dancing on consecutive weekends in Joburg’s two Chinatowns: Commissioner Street and Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene. Chinese families generally come together for a quieter, New Year’s Eve dinner (Nian Ye Fan) prior to the public parties. The evening is spent preparing jiao zhi dumplings – shaped like ingots to signify wealth – to be eaten at midnight. Legend has it that the more dumpjohannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat lings you eat then, the more money you can make in the upcoming cycle. At Dumpling Shop kindly staff will help you pick out dumplings with a lot of pleats; if the junctions are too flat, poverty will ensue (13A Derrick Ave, Cyrildene). Sui Hing Hong has a good selection of frozen dumplings (17 Commissioner St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 834 7905). Fusion fans adore So Yum for the ‘Hong Kong Pears’ (potato dumplings stuffed with duck, prawn and chicken) and sesame-coated chocolate dumplings (Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 5360, www.soyum.co.za).

Dumplings must be arranged in lines; ring-shaped plating will result in an unsatisfying life that goes round in circles.

Long noodles, mian tiao, served uncut and swimming in broth represent longevity. Chef-patronne Emma Chen’s PRON (see p. 31) serves superb tofu noodles with leeks. Her posher Red Chamber restaurant offers chicken soup noodles, on the menu as ‘a pick you up and babalas recipe’ (Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www. redchamber.co.za). Zengcai Li and his wife Feng Qin Hu’s Northern Food make magnificent Zhurou Dun Fentiao (braised pork with potato noodles) at 20D Derrick Ave, Cyrildene, tel. +27 72 030 9414. Everything on the menu at Swallows Inn is available with noodles for an extra R2. Food history fans will adore Joburg’s oldest surviving Chinese restaurant. Founded in 1940, the menu reflects the culinary fusion that inevitably occurs in a diaspora community isolated from its motherland for almost a century. It is also where Nelson Mandela used to eat noodles as a young lawyer (6 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 838 2946).

THAI Songkran (Thai New Year) is marked from April 13–15.

The date is calculated according to ancient astrological charts and the event signifies the beginning of a new astrological year.

Often referred to as the water festival before the Buddhist era, the throwing of water was a spring festival practice that symbolised farmers’ desire for rain. Subsequently a range of water-related Buddhist religious rites have evolved in order to wash away evil and bring good luck for the year ahead. Today the festivities bubble up into boisterous water-balloon throwing and generalised soaking. Food is traditionally taken to monks and the elderly. Auspicious New Year’s dishes are regionally specific but Larb Gai (spiced chicken salad with mint and Thai basil on lettuce cups) is commonly consumed (‘larb’ means fortune). The signature Songkran dessert at Sai Thai is mango with sticky rice (Khao Neeo Mamuang).

Made with palm sugar and deliciously dense rich coconut cream, this seasonal speciality is consumed at New Year because the fruit symbolises prosperity while rice is a sign of future fertility (14 Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 615 1339).

The kindly ladies at Friends Thai Supermarket (218 Hettie Street, Cyrildene) keep an instant packet version of the other classic Songkran dessert, Sang Ka Ya (Thai Coconut Custard). Just add boiling water and stir. Arrive early if you want to buy their small selection of khanom tom kaow (coconut-rolled rice flour dumplings). Thai cooking classes are offered at Thai Café (Cambridge Crossing, cnr Witkoppen and Stonehaven Rds, Paulshof, tel. +27 11 803 9806, www.thaicafe.co.za).

• For more details of restaurants listed, see iyp.me/74111f.

SUSHI HUAMIN NEW What this small sushi spot lacks in atmosphere, it more than makes up for with its tasty sushi, Chinese noodle dishes with Szechuan spice, and its budget friendliness. On Mondays the sushi dishes (not platters) are an unbeatable half-price, and it’s tough to get a table unless you are prepared to wait. On Sundays and Tuesdays it’s an eat-as-much-as-you-like sushi menu for R145.Q145 Barry Hertzog Ave, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 3905. Open 10:30–21:30. R. S THE BIG MOUTH NEW Overlooking the square, this slick new sushi joint with its marble counters and monochrome and brass interiors has raised the tone of what used to be a tired-looking tourist café.

For something filling try the sushi bowl of salmon, avocado, shitake, edamame and short-grain rice, or opt for a signature dish (prices seem steep but portions are generous). The fish and chips roll is noteworthy, and there are plenty of salad bowls, grills, pan dishes and a hard-to-choose-from array of sides.QNelson Mandela Square, Fifth St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 4097, www.thebigmouth.co.za. Open 12:00– 23:00, Sat 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–22:00. RRR. LB facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Umai, Sandton

UMAI SUSHI AT THE LACUNA BAR NEW The gilded lounge area gently overlaps with the verdant, poolside garden, a welcome contrast to Sandton’s congested tarmac outside the front gate. Head chef Eric Manyenkawu’s sushi creations are a treat to look at, and hit the same mark for taste with imaginative combinations. Also a great stop for sundowner cocktails.QThe Maslow Hotel, cnr Grayston Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.suninternational.com/Maslow. Sushi bar open 12:00–21:00. Lacuna Bar open 10:00–late for drinks. RR. TLIW February – April 2016

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Where to eat LOCAL GRILL This place is a shrine to red meat. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose lazy dry or wet-aged meat, ribs or ground-beef burgers. The emphasis is on field-to-fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef cows best enjoyed with one of the top South African wines on offer.QCnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, www.localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:00–15:30, dinner 18:00–22:00. Only open for lunch on Sun. RRR. L

Eat Your Heart Out, Maboneng

STEAKHOUSES Joburg competes well with meat-loving Buenos Aires.

Grain-fed, lazy-aged, prime-cut steaks are the order of the day, and at most places you can order a side of pap (a maize meal staple) with tomato and onion gravy. The braai (barbecue) is a major part of South African culture and you’ll find people enjoy braaing everywhere. Cool urban braai stands include Shap! Braai in an upcycled shipping container in Maboneng (20 Kruger St, tel. +27 72 810 3109). In townships you’ll find shisa nyama, massive braai restaurants that are weekend social hotspots.

THE BULL RUN Located at Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton (see p. 20), this place used to be a countryside tea room back when Sandton was just rolling farmland. It retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Joburg’s business district.

The restaurant has an in-house butchery famed for its beef prime cuts, and offers a wide selection of vintage brandy, whisky and cognac.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun.co.za. Open 12:00–22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R50. BLW CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Having started out with a Sunday market stall, making delicious wood-fired steaks is now a full-time gig for the Argentine team behind this atmospheric steakhouse. The old warehouse space mixes urban and rustic, and specialities such as silky dulce de leche desserts, pork belly chorizo and a homemade chimichurri sauce are a triumph.QG-4, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 469 0290, Che Argentine-Grill. Open 19:00–23:00, Sat–Sun 12:00– 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RRR. L THE GRILLHOUSE Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant buzz, accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines, reservations for this celebrated New York-style grill house are essential. Enquire about their hotel shuttle service.QThe Firs, Cnr Cradock Ave and Biermann Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TURN N TENDER Tasty basted steaks, an excellent selection of sides and a respectable offering for fish-eaters and vegetarians. Swift and friendly service accompany sizzling platters and a casual atmosphere. Also at Village View in Bedfordview and the Thrupps Illovo Centre.QParktown Quarter, 22 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, www.turnntender.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. Kitchen may close by 21:00 on Sun. Corkage R40. RRR. BL

BURGERS BEEFCAKES Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular, topless men, this camp burger bar is a popular gay hangout and bachelorette destination with saucy drag shows every night from 20:30 (booking is advised). The menu quips, ‘Best Buns in town and the Burgers aren’t bad either’.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 5266, www.beefcakes. co.za. Open 12:00 until last guest. Closed Mon. R. EL BGR Two Americans opened a burger joint because they missed the taste of home. Unusually located in the forecourt of a petrol station, the service is fast and friendly and the fare is simple American-style ground-beef patties, no basting and classic toppings, plus shakes and fries.Q172 Jan Smuts Ave (Caltex Forecourt) Rosebank, tel. +27 72 368 2695, www.eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30. R. SL ROCOMAMAS Tasty beef burgers with unusual toppings such as saffron chili chutney and brinjal pickle. Tick off your own add-ons from a list. Ribs and chicken wings can be ordered in large quantities, and craft beers are on tap.QThe Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 268 2462, rocomamas.com. Open 09:00-22:00, Thu, Sat 09:00-23:00, Fri 09:00-24:00. R. BS WOLFPACK A hipster hangout in corporate Sandton. A colourful terrace leads to an airy dining room where a craft beer bar and a tiled graffiti mural of a psychedelic wolfpack on the prowl hold pride of place. Choose from bulky gourmet burgers with clever sides like tempura zucchini sticks and sweet potato chips. Their Parkhurst location (21 4th Ave, tel. +27 11 447 7705) is a weekend hotspot.Q24 Central, cnr Gwen Ln and Fredman Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 8562, FB thewolfpacksandton. Open 11:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RR. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

SANDTON Workshop 55, Parktown North

TAPAS ESCONDIDO The rustic decor, extensive wine list and varied menu – displayed on a massive chalkboard brought to your table – attract a lively crowd. Although there is a Spanish influence detectable, the tapas is more international, crossing many borders with Greek, Italian and Asian-fusion inspired options.QPost Office Centre, cnr Rudd Rd and Otto St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0058. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RR. UL L’OPULENCE The gold and glitzy decor is said to have been inspired by Dubai’s plushest lounge-bars, while the menu seeks to impress its well-heeled clientele with five-star contemporary tapas that arrive plated like works of art. By day it’s a discreet spot in the heart of the Sandton business district, ideal for an elegant business lunch, and by night an exclusive lounge-bar with glamorous parties, cocktails and house DJ sets.QLegacy Corner (shop 310), adjoining Nelson Mandela Sq, 2 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 6984, lopulence.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00. EL WORKSHOP 55 NEW A casual fine-dining take on tapas from the chefs behind the award-winning Cube Tasting Kitchen. A R180 ‘entrance fee’ gets you three plates. The mix of flavours is inspired.

Stay on for pricey gin and tonics, taken to new heights with exclusive brands, citrus infusions and artisanal tonics.Q55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, www. workshop55.co.za. Open 16:30–22:00 (food served from 18:00). Closed Sun, Mon. Average plate R40. LB

FRENCH BISTRO MICHEL You’ll find silken foie gras terrine with slivers of buttery brioche toast garnished with a glamorous array of Joburg’s political and society who’s who. Decadently rich French cuisine, great wine and stellar service. Booking is advised.

QBlubird Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 0769, www.bistromichel. co.za. Open for breakfast from 07:30, lunch 12:00 and dinner 18:00. Sun lunch only. RRR. BUW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Whether for business or leisure, most visitors to Joburg at some point find themselves in the glittering malls and office blocks of central Sandton. The Sandton dining scene used to have a reputation for being unexceptional; however, these days, if you know where to look, there are some great upmarket restaurants and cafés to choose from. Here are some suggestions.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE This recently renovated shopping mall, named for the giant bronze statue of Nelson Mandela which overlooks the open piazza at its centre, is a popular stop for an al fresco meal. The prestigious location in the heart of Sandton means you’ll be paying higher prices than usual, but you can’t go wrong with lunch at the elegant Tashas (tel. +27 11 883 0389. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–21:30) – the Flamingo Room is the most exclusive place to see and be seen. Try the sushi and other Asian-inspired dishes at The Big Mouth (see p. 27).

SANDTON CITY Joburg’s most popular shopping destination, this huge mall has it all. For light Mediterranean lunches and typical deli fare visit the perennially busy Deli One (lower level, tel. +27 11 884, 8899, wwwdelione.com), for the best made-to-order salads in generous portions you can’t beat the Krunch salad bar (lower level, tel. +27 11 784 3198) and for the biggest breakfasts the spacious Walnut Grove (est.1975) with its comfy booths is a cosy place to while away the morning (above the food court, tel. +27 11 783 6111) See p. 57.

11TH STREET, BENMORE For a break from the glitz and shine of Sandton’s malls head slightly further afield to Benmore’s 11th Street (a 20-minute walk or five-minute cab ride from Sandton City). Here you can sample a world of tastes along a scruffy low-rise strip of independent restaurants that offer Chinese, Thai, Indian, Italian and Nigerian food. For good-value lunch deals and Indian street snacks, stop at Mumbai Masala (tel. +2711 784 5430. Open 11:00– 22:00, closed Sun) or for fine dining in a minimalist atmosphere there’s Eatery JHB, which also has a slick gastropub Parliament upstairs (see p. 40).

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Where to eat PIZZA ANDICCIO 24 This chain of takeaway pizza joints offers free deliveries. It may be fast food but the pizzas are excellent and you get to choose your own toppings. Branches in Sandton, Greenside and Randburg.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, www.andiccio24.co.za. Open 24hrs. R–RR.

Bistro Michel, Birnam

LE SOUFFLÉ Gallic gastronomic icon Marc Guébert estimates that since his arrival in South Africa in 1972 he has whipped up at least 400 000 of his signature soufflés. At the appositely named Le Soufflé his classic French fare is the order of the day. Located halfway from Sandton to the Cradle of Humankind or Lanseria airport.QPineslopes Shopping Centre, cnr Witkoppen Rd and The Straight Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 11 465 4116, www.lesouffle.co.za. Open 09:00–21:30, Fri, Sat 08:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–14:00, Mon 09:00–17:00.

RRR. BUW

ITALIAN BELLAGIO NEW Not an exclusively seafood restaurant, but the flawless fish dishes are the main attraction. Grilled kingklip liberally slathered in lemon butter and herbs, gigantic langoustines and seared tuna steak feature prominently. The pasta menu is the real deal, straight from an Italian fishing village. Don’t be in a hurry because Bellagio is more suited to lazy weekend lunches on the terrace – Mediterranean style.Q196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 87 550 3521. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. RRRR. B STELLE Inspired by northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and regularly devise new dishes at this friendly restaurant. Pastas are light and homemade and seasonal is a key word when it comes to the menu. For a big gathering opt for the covered patio.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996. www.stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 18:00–22:30, Fri, Sat 12:30–16:00 and 18:00–22:30. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. B TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery with polished service also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on pricey necessities like Tortellino’s signature melanzane and spinach malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach). There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and dessert will have you wishing you had left more space.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. RRR. B 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ANT CAFÉ A cosy, dimly-lit, neighbourhood spot bursting with character. Founded two decades ago by artist Ronnie van der Walt, no space is left uncovered by memorabilia and items of curiosity, giving it the air of a bohemian artist’s studio.

The pizza crust is impossibly thin, piled with cheese and plentiful fresh toppings. Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00.

NUB PIZA E VINO Located on a busy piazza, the pizzas here come in two sizes with plenty of weird and wonderful combinations and even more intriguing names such as Italian Stallion or Speedy G. There is a selection of pastas and salads and the adjoining bar is a lively spot for evening sundowners.

Bambinos have a special menu.QMelrose Piazza, Melrose Arch, Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 2730, www.pizaevino. co.za. Open 11:30–22:00, Sun–Mon 11:30–21:30, Fri–Sat 11:30–01:00. RR. SBTW

VEGETARIAN & VEGAN FREE FOOD* Little more than a hole in the wall, seating is around one communal table in front of the kitchen counter or order takeaways. The exclusively vegan menu changes weekly adding curries, pastas or stir fries, but the huge salads, bulked up with superfoods like quinoa, are permanently on the menu.QShop 5B Reithmere, cnr Delta St and Corlett Dr, Birnam, tel. +27 82 406 4699, www.freefood.co.za. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 08:30–17:00. Closed Sun. RR. SW GREENSIDE CAFÉ Here’s to raw food, vegetarianism, peace and understanding. A bright and welcoming place serving raw food, fresh juices, wheat-free pizzas and delicious salads. The desserts are decadent. So tasty non-vegetarians will love it too.Q34 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 3444, www. thegreensidecafe.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00–21:30. Closed Mon. R. UB THE PUDDING SHOP This restaurant has vegetarian, vegan and fish dishes. Located in an urban but rustic setting, the menu is small and inventive. Try the Tuscan Tasting Plate with its baby marrow rosti and mushroom and walnut pâté. Desserts are as pudding should be: excellent.Q43 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 61 444 3493. Open 08:30–15:00. Closed Mon. RR. B6TW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat DINING HOTSPOT: LINDEN What was once a peach farm became a heartland of Afrikaner conformity and crocheted doilies during the apartheid years. Today, Linden is being reinvented as a trendy suburb that pays ironic homage to its past. Its distinctive main street, 4th Avenue, is a mix of proudly local, independent stores and cafés, both new and old. Look out for quirky contemporary local designers such as the Ceramic Factory (see p. 56), specific-interest stores like vinyl emporium Record Mad and long-running family businesses such as Rembrandt’s butchery and the iconic Arthur Bales haberdashery, whose Linden store opened in the 1960s. Here’s our pick of the neighbourhood’s top cafés and restaurants. À LA BOUFFE Meaning ‘come and eat’, this light and airy French bistro is a good reminder of what everyday French dining is about: unfussy, rustic homemade classics served in laid-back style.

The menu changes every two months to make space for seasonal ingredients, and there is a different plat du jour lunch offer every day.Q32 7th St, tel. +27 11 888 8004, AlaBouffeSa. Open 11.00–14.00 and 18.00–21.00, Sat 09:00–14:00 and 18:00–21:00. Closed Sun, Mon. RR-RRR. Corkage R40. B THE ARGENTINEAN The music is good, old-fashioned 1960s folk, and the slightly dated interiors with posters of the motherland effortlessly transport you back to those simpler times when every corner had a family-run café. Service is with a smile and the breakfasts are excellent value, clocking up to around R50 including coffee and juice.QCnr 7th St and 4th Ave, tel. +27 11 888 9759, TheArgentineanBakeryCafe. Open 06:30– 17:00, Sat 06:30–14:00, Sun 06:30–13:00. R. BSW CHEESE GOURMET One of the few places in Joburg that can actually lay claim to the title of stocking ‘artisanal products’, including more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats produced by local farmers. The deli owners Jo and Brian Dick are champions of slow food and service is highly knowledgeable. The café menu has plenty of tasty options, many of them cheese-based, including frittata, paninis and quiches.Q77 7th St, tel. +27 11 888 5384, CheeseGourmet. Open Mon–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00.

Closed Sun. BS THE FAT ZEBRA Real effort has gone into creating a superb range of breakfast choices that include the Babalaas breakfast, which comes with a shot glass of cream soda designed to cure even the weirdest of hangovers. There are delicious salads, prego rolls and crispy thin-crust pizza from a wood-fired oven, while burgers and a meaty tapas menu make this a lunchtime or evening stopover, too.Q1 7th St (cnr 3rd Ave), tel. +27 82 469 5757, TheFatZebra. Open Tue, Wed 07:00–17:00, Thu, Fri 07:00–22:00, Sat 08:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–13:00. Closed Mon. Corkage R50. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

PRON (People’s Republic of Noodles)

OREGANO NEW This small – Oregano has one table inside – neighbourhood patisserie run by a mother and daughter team specialises in catering but that shouldn’t stop you from visiting to taste unforgettable chocolate brownie milkshakes, fresh baked breads and cakes, light and moist almond berry friands, and hot out of the oven pies. The fare changes daily and depends on the season.Q71 7th Street, Linden, tel. +27 83 260 6582, www.oreganocatering.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. PRON No deep-fried dishes, no rice and definitely no sweetand-sour sauces. Owner and chef Emma Chen’s northern Chinese comfort food centres on subtly flavoured bowls of thick, flat handmade noodles given a magnificent lift with an abundance of spring onion, coriander, garlic, chilli and Chinese peppercorns. The decor is fun, tongue-in-cheek Chinese kitsch and the atmosphere down-to-earth.Q69 7th St, tel. +27 11 782 1736. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RR. B THE WHIPPET COFFEE COMPANY Those in the know credit this buzzing coffee shop with its hipster aesthetic for putting the suburb of Linden on the cool map. The food is freshly made caféstyle and the coffee and tea selection is top rate. On Friday evenings the after-work crowd swells the place for drinks and tapas, and every morning the doors open early for delicious breakfasts, made with care and attention.Q34 7th St (cnr 4th Ave), tel. +27 11 782 7310, www.thewhippet.co.za.

Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–22:00, Sat 07:30–15:00.

Kitchen closes at 15:00 weekdays, Sat at 14:00. Closed Sun. BW February – April 2016

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Where to eat prego rolls. Croft stays open later on Thursday and Friday, and there is plenty counter space for the laptop brigade.

Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, www. croftandco.co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30– 21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. W

Life Grand Café, Mall of the South

CAFÉS Joburg has a thriving suburban café society and we would hazard a guess that more business deals are being struck over a sidewalk cappuccino than at the boardroom table.

With increasing traffic congestion, those who can afford to dictate their own working hours make a pit stop at local cafés. During the week the early tables are occupied by salaried workers, followed by lift-club parents and people who made their office anywhere they want it to be. On weekends you’ll need to avert your eyes as the early-morning cyclists strut their unattractive cycling shorts. Rather take in the cooler-than-cool Vespa crew who park as noticeably as possible. To soak up the atmosphere or just browse email we recommend these cafés. Also see Love Food (p. 35) and The Whippet (p. 31).

CROFT & CO Efficient service, fresh juices, strong coffee and possibly the best creamy scrambled eggs in town make this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media types and wannabes, replaced by a later shift of lycra-clad Louis Vuitton handbag-toting gym bunnies. An all-round tasty lunch spot with a simple menu of salads, toasties and

LIFE GRAND CAFÉ NEW Hanging out in a mall café used to be something you did out of necessity rather than choice, but stylish café chains like pioneering Tashas (see p. 29) and Life Grand Café have changed that. Life is the creation of an interior design firm. Each store carries the stamp of elegant luxury. This branch deep in the south of Joburg in a new mega mall, Mall of the South, is decorated in vivid shades of green and if not for the view of the parking lot conjures a tropical escape. To start, order some tapas dishes and add a signature jam-jar cocktail – the watermelon and basil Tanqueray mojito is recommended. For mains choose from the pasta bar or pizzette menu. The line fish is excellent, the fillet well prepared.

Service is friendly. The original café is in Hyde Park Corner (see p. 57).QCnr Swartkoppies Rd and Klipriver Dr, Aspen, tel. +27 10 596 3880, www.lifegrandcafe. com. Open 06:00–22:00, Sun, Mon 06:00–20:00.

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SALVATIONCAFÉ Excellent breakfast options – ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos – ensure a memorable morning meal at this busy café at 44 Stanley. Surrounded by enticing design and fashion stores the tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard, perfect for relaxed family meals. Adults will envy the kids menu and for lunch there’s a wide selection of salads, sandwiches and wraps. Enjoy fresh and healthy ingredients like free-range eggs and chicken and grass-fed beef.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www.salvationcafe.co.za.

Open 08:00–16:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. BELLE’S PATISSERIE Everything you eat here is both kosher and halaal and you will want to try lots of it. While Belle’s is renowned as a patisserie (you cannot leave town without sampling the red velvet cheesecake or strawberry crois-nut) this café has recently launched a skinny menu that includes crustless quiches, soaked breakfast oat pots, exciting salads and cauliflower wraps and pizzas for the banting or Paleo diet fans.

You can also find a Belle’s at Sandton City.QBluBird Shopping Centre, cnr Athol Oaklands Rd and Cross St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 4474, www.bellespatisserie.co.za. Open 07:30–18:00, Mon 07:30–17:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–17:00. W PARK CAFÉ This café tucked into a small shopping complex on Jan Smuts Avenue shares the block with some of Joburg’s top art galleries (see p. 48). A spectacular eagle-topped Belle Epoque coffee machine occupies the counter. Enjoy breakfast and lunch here. For breakfast the poached eggs with spiced tomatoes are supreme or try the creamy oats with fresh fruit. Lunch favourites include salads, salmon fishcakes and homemade beef burgers.QThe Parks Shopping Centre, Cnr Jan Smuts and Wells Aves, Parkwood, www. parkcafe.co.za, tel. +27 11 447 0250. Open 07:30–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00– 12:00. W SERVICE STATION This popular Melville neighbourhood eatery in the pretty Bamboo Centre serves an excellent harvest table lunch and a fresh granola breakfast priced by weight. The produce used here is selected from local suppliers and you can pick up some deli goods and delightful homeware gift items as well as order from the catering menu. The quiches here are noteworthy. With plenty of light-filled space this is a good place to settle in and enjoy a break from the hustle.

QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online.co.za. Open 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30. W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat COFFEE The daily cup is taken seriously in Joburg. At these places coffee is not just coffee, it’s about fresh roasts, Fair Trade and single origin beans. Also see Father Coffee (p. 36) EXCLUSIVE BOOKS At this chain bookshop in Rosebank Mall you have a choice of three African coffee varieties. Order the Ethiopian or Burundian if it is a strong rather than spicy flavour you’re after.

There’s also a good selection of sweet stuff including a chilli fudge that alone is worth a visit. Plenty of counter space, free wifi and being surrounded by fantastic books make this a great mall hangout.QLevel 3, Rosebank Mall, Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 3028, www.exclus1ves. co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Thu–Sat 09:00–21:00.

FOURTH AVENUE ROASTERY The beans are freshly roasted and the coffee worth writing home about. This hip little pavement café is where the neighbourhood denizens drop by with their pampered mutts (catered for with their own doggie water bowls) for an espresso. Try a pastry with your shot. Tables outside offer a great vantage point to watch Parkhurst’s humming street life.QShop 3, The Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109, www.4thavenuecoffee. co.za. Open 07:15–18:00, Sat 08:00-18:00, Sun 09:0017:00. No food served on Mondays.

BEAN THERE South Africa’s first roaster of Certified Fairtrade coffee, Bean There sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor of the store is perfect for savouring the flavours.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere.co.za. Open 07:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. W GURU A popular independent coffee shop that does a bustling trade in take-away coffee and has a range of freshly-made deli sandwiches and snacks to go. The Greek yoghurt and honey pots are a must. Loads of space, some outdoor seating, and plenty of natural light make this a home away from home for many laptop-bearing citizens.Q19 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 447 5044. Open 06:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 06:30–17:00. W

HIGH TEA High tea and tea on high. From the lightest and fluffiest buttery scones with clotted cream and preserves to tea served with an incomparable vista of one of the most forested cities in the world, Joburg has it all. For authenticity we recommend afternoon tea served amid the graceful splendour of the Victorian Lindfield House Museum following a tour of this historical treasure (book one week in advance and specify high tea, cost R120 – see p. 47). If you have time to travel further afield, visit facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Afternoon tea at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff

The Victorian Secret Artisan Bakery and Patisserie in Benoni (a 30-minute drive from Joburg city centre) where you can enjoy high tea with perfectly crustless cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches plus a selection of pastries (140 Woburn Avenue, Western Extension, Ekurhuleni, Benoni, +27 11 420 1912, www.thevictoriansecret.co.za.

Cost R160). For a countryside escape, book tickets for The Forum Company’s high tea at White Light (see p. 9). The venues below require bookings.

TEA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF For a contemporary spin on high tea accompanied by a jaw-dropping view, soak in the casual refinement of Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff. Afternoon tea is a chic affair with a choice of savoury or sweet treats. The price is as steep as the hill atop which View sits (cost R395) but this is ‘not your grandmother’s high tea’. We recommend the savoury stand – six savouries and three sweets – on which you’ll find delicacies the likes of coconut crumbed Monarch prawn, aniseed cups of phyllo pastry with salmon trout tartare and the biltong sandwich for local flavour. Finish it off with choux pastry filled with a praline mousse topped with caramelised popcorn and a pot of the finest TWG loose leaf tea.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6180, www.fourseasons.com/johannesburg.

HIGH TEA AT THE PALAZZO, MONTECASINO Despite its opulent setting and over-the-top glamour, high tea at the Palazzo Montecasino qualifies as one of Joburg’s best-value high teas (cost R220). The elegantly served daily menu comprises a variety of cakes, petite quiches, assorted sandwiches and a fine selection of single-origin Ceylon teas. Savouries are mostly mini-quiches so if bread is your enemy save the space for the carrot cake and opera cake, all presented with great flair and accompanied by Dilmah’s Tea Silver Jubilee Gourmet collection. High tea is served at the hotel’s Medeo Restaurant terrace overlooking a pool that would make any Hollywood starlet feel at home. The hotel gardens are spectacular and flower arrangements indoors are always something to marvel at.QPalazzo Hotel Montecasino, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3714, www.tsogosunhotels.com.

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Braamfontein

The Beach From a student district to Joburg’s hipster heartland, Braamfontein, a gateway to the inner city, just keeps getting better and better. You’ll find two of Joburg’s most impressive landmarks here – The Eland, a sculpture by Clive van den Berg, and Nelson Mandela Bridge – plus museums and galleries galore. The district is flanked by Constitution Hill (p. 46) and Wits University where the #FeesMustFall campaign recently made global headlines. The weekly Neighbourgoods Market is a major drawcard, attracting thousands into the city on any Saturday.

GETTING AROUND A relatively compact area measuring about eight by ten city blocks, Braamfontein is easily navigated on foot. The Park Station Gautrain is right on the doorstep, and the opentop City Sightseeing bus (see p. 48) makes two stops in Braamfontein: at The Grove and at the Origins Centre.

The Rea Vaya bus also passes through Braamfontein, stopping at Park Station and Constitution Hill.

WHERE TO STAY Staying over in Braamfontein isn’t only for out-of-town visitors. With plenty of night-time and weekend attractions, Braamfontein with its well-priced hotel options is a perfect city break. Hotels here are well situated and are great locations from which to launch your city adventures, with easy access to good restaurants, stores, coffee shops, galleries and nightlife. Thursday nights are always busy with the First Thursday of every month providing a bumper list of things to see and do (see p. 8), and an opportunity to visit the 34 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee

Neighbourgoods night market. Stay over on Friday nights for the busy bar scene and live jazz music and to avoid the parking crush that ensues on Saturday mornings. Sundays are a day off from the bustle.

HOTEL LAMUNU This stylish and vibrant hotel overlooks The Grove piazza and is favoured by the visiting smart set who frequent the nearby university. The rooms are compact and the decor cheerfully nods to local historical personalities – writers, musicians, paleoanthropologists – with each floor referencing their contribution to South African society. The hotel offers conference facilities that can seat up to 130 delegates, and the busy adjoining piazza is perfect for enjoying breakfast, or sundowners after any event.QC-2, 90 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.lamunu.com.

THE BANNISTER HOTEL A hip budget hotel, the rooms here are bright with crisp white linen, free wifi and artistic touches. Hotel owner Andrew Bannister is a former photographer. His iconic album cover image of Zimbabwean singer Oliver Mtukudzi graces the lobby. With great foresight Bannister ran what was formerly the Metro Hotel long before the hipsters arrived and declared Braamfontein the capital of cool. Today the hotel has one of the busiest bars on De Beer Street.

QC-3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za.

Other options include The Protea Parktonian All-Suite Hotel (www.proteahotels.com) and Devonshire Hotel (www.devonshirehotel.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Braamfontein

Post

Rudi Jeggle

WHAT TO SEE ORIGINS CENTRE This museum offers unique insights into the origins of humankind, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive rock art collection, ancient tools and artefacts of spiritual significance to early humans. There’s also a fascinating focus on San culture and rituals. Spend 90 minutes or a few hours here. The gift store has a worthwhile book selection and there is a café.QB-2, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R80, pensioners R65, students R45, kids under 12, R40. Guided tour R200.

PLANETARIUM Johannesburg’s planetarium opened its doors in 1960 with a Carl Zeiss star-projector that today still casts exact images of the night sky and astronomical objects onto the domed ceiling. Star-hop along the path of the Southern Cross as you follow a presentation that illustrates the South African sky. From changing skies to eclipses and rare sightings, a vist will give you a tour across the universe.QB-1, Yale Rd, Milner Park, Wits University, tel. +27 11 717 1392, www.planetarium.co.za. Shows on Fri 20:00, Sat 10:30 (children), 15:00. Shows last approximately one hour. Tickets R40, children, students, pensioners R27. Family ticket R150.

WITS ART MUSEUM (WAM) Home to an extraordinary permanent collection of African art, including contemporary and historical works from across the continent, WAM offers a dynamic programme of events and exhibitions. Curator or artist talks and walkabouts happen every second and fourth Saturday of the month at 12:00. Talk and walkabouts for children take place on the third Saturday of each month at 12:00, while a guided tour related to the permanent collection takes place Sundays at 11:00. The museum also offers free drop-in drawing sessions. The superb and well-priced café Olives and Plates serves light meals and refreshments.QB-2, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. Entrance is free. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Randlords

JOBURG THEATRE The city’s largest theatre venue stages popular mainstream productions including comedy, dance, musicals and drama. The annual pantomime production is always a hit with families. Next door is the premises of Joburg Ballet, a professional ballet company with a proud track record in developing young dancers from all backgrounds, while across the way is one of the prettiest city parks.QC-2, 163 Civic Blvd, tel. +27 86 167 0670, www. joburgtheatre.com. Joburg Ballet, joburgballet.com.

WHERE TO EAT For quick curry bites and tasty samoosas try R. Jana’s (87 De Korte St) while the selection of food at the weekly Saturday Neighbourgoods Market is unbeatable.

Among our many favourites are the freshly made crêpes, crispy crumbed chicken boats from Sumting Fresh, cheerfully served, and the awe-inspiring paella dishes from Tutto’s.QC-3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg. Sat 09:00–15:00, night market on first Thu of the month from 17:00–22:00.

If a sit-down meal is more your style, these are our recommendations.

SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL A barbecue menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a legendary pulled-pork sandwich. The atmosphere is lively, the prices upmarket and the staff friendly. If meat’s not what you eat it’s still worth heading there for the peanut butter ice cream.QC3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1395. Open 11:30–21:30, Thu–Sat 11:30–22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R30.

LOVE FOOD A spacious eatery with a sumptuous daily harvest table of freshly-made salads and meat, fish or chicken dishes.

Owner Jamie Lorge is always around, serving up plates of her wholesome food. Desserts are good too. A very popular spot so arrive early for a lunch table.QC-2, 4 Ameshoff St, tel. + 27 83 602 6511, lovefoodkitchen.com. Open 07:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Corkage R20.

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Braamfontein COFFEE

The landmark sculpture, The Eland

POST A hipster corner complete with bearded baristas, vinyl on the turntable and a small but adequate breakfast and lunch menu. Ingredients are fresh, locally produced and seasonal.

QC-3, 70 Juta St, tel. +27 72 248 2078, post-bl.tumblr. com. Open 06:30–16:00, Sat, public hoildays 08:30– 14:00. Closed Sun. DALEAH’S This relaxed spot has lots of quirkily charming decor details plus a lovely courtyard at the back. The menu is on a huge chalkboard, and the coffee is recommended. Skip the rose milk – it’s odd – and opt for fresh juices. Try the mini burgers (sliders) that always get rave reviews.QC-3, 6 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 0243, daleahs. Open 08:30–17:30.

Sat 09:00–17:30. Closed Sun, Mon.

ART HOTSPOT From the giant antelope The Eland by Clive van den Berg, ‘a large representation of an eland on a corner where it has long since disappeared’ (C-2, Cnr Bertha and Ameshoff Sts), to the metal trees along Juta Street and the alleyways adorned with murals, Braamfontein is filled with artwork. Book a walking tour with Past Experiences to see the graffiti and street art. For gallery art and photography with contemporary edge head to Stevenson Gallery (C-3, 62 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00– 13:00. Closed Sun) or for upstart exhibitions of street and digital art Kalashnikovv Gallery’s art openings are the most happening parties in town (C-3, 153 Smit St, tel. +27 73 124 8183, Kalashnikovv-Gallery. Open Thu–Sat 10:30–15:00 only or by prior appointment).

Grayscale Gallery, founded by three graffiti artists, represents alternative street and previously considered ‘lowbrow’ art-forms. Artist Rasty is a much sought-after tattoo artist working from here and chief organiser of City of Gold annual graffiti festival (B-2, 2nd floor, 33 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 403 0077, www.grayscalegallery. co.za. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun).

On First Thursdays the galleries stay open late.

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

If there’s one thing that academics and hipsters have in common it’s a love of coffee. Pick up your single-origin, limited-edition, micro-lot, roasted on-site coffee at one of the neighbourhood’s excellent roasteries. Father Coffee is a blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple to aesthetics and font design, and the small bench outside is a great spot for people watching (C-3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 82 513 4258, www. fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30–17:30.

Closed Sun). A few blocks away is Doubleshot specialising in ethically-sourced coffees and teas. For a refreshing drink try their homemade iced tea (C-3, Cnr Juta and Melle Sts, tel. +27 11 100 5241, www.doubleshot.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30. Closed Mon).

WHAT TO BUY For furniture and covetable homeware items stop by Dokter & Misses. Quite simply one of the top names in South African design Katy Taplin and Adriaan Hugo’s signature style combines bold colour, clean modern lines and superb craftsmanship (C-3, 68 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 1024, www.dokterandmisses.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun). 70 Juta is a large city block housing a collection of ever-changing fashionable stores.

Wander along Juta Street to Puma Select for a showcase of international sportswear collaborations, displayed as artworks for your admiring glances (C-3, 81 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 3096, www.pumaselect.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun). At 82 Juta Street is Aware Records for vinyl freaks, while X-TREND is heaven for sneaker freaks. with limited-range exclusive items from brands such as Converse, Nike, Adidas, Puma and Reebok (C-2, 20 Melle St, tel. +27 11 784 7324, The Cross Trainer. Open 08:00–18:00, Fri 08:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00). For men’s clothing head to The Heritage (C-2, Cnr Melle and De Korte Sts, tel. +27 11 339 1074, TheHERITAGEBraam. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun), for vintage the aficionados descend on Kitchener’s corner on Saturdays (see p. 37), while Fourthwall Books is the place to buy beautifully crafted limited-edition books on a fascinating array of South African subjects, many of them concentrated on aspects of Joburg’s history, art and culture (C-2, 91 De Korte St, entrance on Reserve St, tel. +27 11 403 3009, www.fourthwallbooks.com. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun–Tue.)

NIGHTLIFE Being within such close proximity to Joburg’s two main university campuses, Braamfontein has plenty of nightlife and attracts a hip, young and creative crowd. Thursdays to Saturdays are the busiest and the party often doesn’t end until 04:00. The corner of Juta and De Beer Streets is generally the hub of all the action, although if you keep your ear to the ground (and your eyes on our weekly online What’s On guide) you’ll find that Braamfontein also has an edgy rooftop pop-up party scene. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Braamfontein

ANTI EST A stylish spot set up for fans of complex cocktails, craft beer, cool design and underground DJs. An upmarket menu make this a more grown-up, but not less diverse, alternative to the more student-orientated bars.QC-3, Cnr Juta St and De Beer St, tel. +27 74 187 2421. Open 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00. Closed Sun–Tue.

THE BEACH A man-made beach on the roof of Braamfontein’s coolest corner, The Beach comes alive at weekends for post-Neighbourgoods Market lounging. Iced cocktails are de rigueur – the Moscow Mule is the house speciality.QC-3, 68 Juta St, tel. +27 11 492 1440. Open Sat and Sun 12:00–19:00, from 17:00 on first Thu of the month. Entrance R80.

THE BANNISTER BAR Maybe it’s the abundant palms or the whir of the ceiling fans and a fresh breeze wafting in through wide open windows, but there’s something almost tropical about this lively spot. Great for early evening drinks with a more mature crowd.QC-3, The Bannister Hotel, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 11:00–24:00. Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00.

BULLION The decor is pure industrial with rough concrete edges and jet engines hanging from the ceilings and the parties are suitably underground. Only open for pop-up club nights and events, so keep your eye on Facebook for the latest.QC-3, The Liberty, 17 Wolmarans St, BullionBraamfontein.

KITCHENER’S CARVERY The city’s cool kids and creative types are all here listening to old school house, hip hop and electronica in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. The atmosphere remains unpretentious despite the high hipster count, and you’ll be warmly welcomed no matter how pedestrian your haircut. Most people rotate between Kitchener’s and Great Dane (see p.

38) next door, depending on how long the queues are to get in. Cover charges may apply after 21:00 Friday and Saturday.

QC-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, tel. +27 11 403 0166.

Open 10:00–21:00, Thu 10:00–02:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–04:00.

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found here, both on stage and in the audience. An inviting caférestaurant greets you downstairs while upstairs the atmospheric concert space awaits. Reservations for tables upstairs highly recommended.QC-2, 81 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za. Open 11:30–02:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets for concerts from R60.

ROOFTOP PARTIES Party above the city at one of Braamfontein’s many rooftop venues. Note that most venues are only open for special events or club nights, check their social media pages to see what’s on before you visit. The Beach opens every Saturday and Sunday and is closed during winter (June–August). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

RANDLORDS With a name inspired by Joburg’s early mining magnates, this is one of the city’s most celebrated and glamorous rooftop venues. Only open for special club nights such as the Hot on Top house party.QB-2, South Point Towers, 41 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 489 1930, www.randlords.co.za.

CONSTITUTION HILL Constitution Hill is one of Joburg’s most impressive heritage landmarks. Built by the British as a colonial fort, it later became a prison and today houses a number of museums, as well as South Africa’s modern Constitutional Court. The urban views from the old fort ramparts are among the best in the city, and there is much to occupy your time beyond the museums. For lunch stop at The Hill, a bright and breezy café located in one of the old fort’s prison yards where you can literally walk in the footsteps of heroes – Nelson Mandela was incarcerated in this very block in 1962. The menu is classic café-fare with milkshakes, sandwiches, burgers and an excellent salad selection; the decor is fresh and modern and the staff charming. On the first Saturday of every month (from 10:00–16:00), check out the regular Market@The Fort event for food, drinks, live music, kid’s entertainment and local fashion and crafts with an African flavour. For more on the Constitution Hill museums, see p. 46.QD1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www. constitutionhill.org.za. Open 08:30–17:30.

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Nightlife

The courtyard at Great Dane, Braamfontein Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that the main nightlife areas are spread across the city – some of the most popular areas include studenty 7th Street in Melville, Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue, Gleneagles Rd in Greenside and the inner-city districts Maboneng and Braamfontein (see The Bannister Bar on p. 37). If you are driving stay sober or use our Uber code (see p. 3). The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18.

COURTYARD BARS GREAT DANE On Friday and Saturday nights the courtyard can get so crowded that you’ll barely notice all the quirky details, such as the floor plastered in five-cent coins or the neon-bright, frilly lamps hanging overhead. But no doubt you will be too busy dancing to the old-school house tunes with your new best friends to care. Expect a queue and a cover charge after 21:00.QC-3, 5 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1136, greatdanebar. Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00. Closed Sun–Tue. B LENIN’S VODKA BAR VOUCHER ON P. 3 A fun and stylish after-hours hangout, Lenin’s is a must for vodka fans with a fondness for Mother Russia, boasting an exceptional cocktail menu and dozens of vodka brands from across the world. Start with a frozen shot from the bartenders’ weekly selection in the freezer. Inside a golden mural of old Vlad looks out over a moodily lit bar stacked high with bottles and on warm evenings the action spills out into a petite courtyard shaded by olive trees.QG-4, 300 Commissioner St (Maverick Corner), Maboneng, lenins.co.za. Open Wed– Sat 16:00–late, Sun 12:00–late. Closed Mon, Tue. B LORD’S CIGAR BAR Sneak through the hotel’s plush lobby and keep to the left, let the doors swing open and you’ll find yourself in an old-fashioned little pub. The pub dates back to well before 38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Justin Lee

Sandton’s rise as the country’s business capital (although it has since had an extensive refit) and backs onto one of the hotel’s two swimming pools surrounded by lush gardens where European flight crews like to top up their suntans.

QProtea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, 20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/ balalaika. Open 11:00–02:00. B MISH MASH Pretty fairy light garlands, pot plants and blonde wood cladding can’t completely disguise that this beer garden is in fact a car park, but still Mish Mash is a lively place to hang out over a bottle of ludicrously cheap wine from the bar’s extensive selection. The fun-loving clientele are a mix of students, tattooed hipsters and young professional types.

Q20 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 026 2915, MishMashBarAndRestaurant. Open 16:00–02:00, Sat 11:30–02:00, Sun 11:30–22:00. Closed Mon. BE STANLEY BEER YARD The converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley with its pretty interlinked courtyards is a charming place to spend a warm summer evening. Settle in at one of the long tables at the easy-going Stanley Beer Yard and quench your thirst with a choice of South African craft beers. Live music every Saturday from 14:00.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791, Stanley-Beer-Yard.

Open 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30–23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Closed Mon. BE THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt’s massive courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. The noise of the city is completely muffled and instead birds tweet overhead and water trickles into infinity pools nestled under romantically-lit palm trees.QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com.

Open 15:00–22:00. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife LIVE MUSIC AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION This tiny jazz café in the old Sophiatown area specialises in African jazz, poetry and spoken word. A scruffy, bohemian kind of hangout made for meaningful conversations over cheap beers with local intellectuals, artists and musicians.

Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za. Open 10:00–24:00.

AMUSE CAFÉ Quirky little bar showcasing all genres, from groovy Afrojazz or soft indie-folk to those serious teens churning out progressive rock for a handful of die-hard fans. A rainbow flag hangs proudly on the wall and the decor is a mix of wonderfully kitsch retro gig posters.Q34 5th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, tel. +27 84 555 5252, Amuse-Cafe. Open 15:00-24:00, Sun 15:00–20:00. Closed Mon. BASSLINE Long-standing concert venue hosting jazz nights every Wednesday in the jazz room and larger concerts by wellknown South African bands in the main hall most weekends.QB-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za.

CARFAX Underground live music venue in a graffiti-plastered downtown warehouse. The atmosphere is gritty and the local and international acts edgy. During major music events the adjoining cobbled streets are closed off to accommodate open-air gigs. Next to Carfax is & Club (see Clubbing).

QB-4, 39 Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 83 288 0428, carfax.co.za.

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found here, both on stage and in the audience. Booking is recommended. Live music every night.QC-2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za.

Closed Mon. Open 11:30–14:00.

ROCK BARS While house music is still very much the sound of the city, tattoos, beards, leather and the growl of motorbike engines are back in fashion in Joburg. Find cold beers, rock music and dive bar aesthetics at one of these bars: HELL’S KITCHEN At this American-styled whisky bar the walls are decorated with photos of rock heroes and a moody red neon sign sends out a racy message suggesting you ‘Be naked when I get home’. One of the biggest bars on Melville’s studenty party street, there’s plenty of space to rock out after rolling up on your mean machine, plus a hipster barbershop next door.QShop 4, 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 79 980 9591, www.hellskitchen.co.za. Open 12:00–02:00, Sun 12:00– 01:00. Closed Mon. BW facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Award-winning jazz pianist Nduduzo Makhathini

RADIUM BEER HALL Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium is famous for its mouth-watering Portuguese food. A little rough around the edges this old -school pub hosts regular gigs by local rock, folk and blues bands.

The Radium Jazz Band plays every Friday and guest bands every Saturday. Bookings recommended.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www. theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–23:30, Sat until last guest, closed Sun. E THE HANDLE BAR There’s no telling where your thoughts might wander when you hear the name Rim & Rubber Assembly, the name of the restaurant where you’ll find this bar. But the only fetishists you’ll meet here are those who enjoy enjoy finely prepared food, an extensive choice of whiskies and high-speed motorbikes. On Greenside’s busy cocktail and bar strip, this is an upmarket spot full of surprises.Q26 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 10 900 4949. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00–16:00 (bar closes 17:00). Closed Mon.

CLUBBING House music rules in this city. Take your pop chart requests somewhere else. Joburg’s top clubs make it their mission to get the hottest new DJs on the decks and regularly host international guest DJs. Serious clubbers should look out for nights like Toy Toy at & Club, an edgy downtown venue that attracts the biggest techno and electro fans. For Champagne and glamorous clubbing with the beautiful people, there’s Sandton’s Taboo, where dressing up is essential. At the gay nightclub Babylon you’ll find lots of disco, techno and topless men. & CLUB B-4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, www. andclub.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 21:00–04:00.

TABOO 24 Central, Cnr Fredman Drv and Gwen Ln, Sandton, www.taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

BABYLON Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, www.babylonnightlife.com. Open 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. February – April 2016

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Nightlife GIN REVIVAL Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then has expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter.

I was completely overwhelmed by the re-emergence of what were essentially the ‘gin palaces’ of Victorian England on a trip to London. Never too far behind with the trends, South Africa has seen a pleasing swell of both local and international craft gin labels so I thought it a good idea to highlight a couple of brands that we are enjoying at Norman Goodfellows.

Gin is a spirit whose primary flavour is derived from juniper berries. It is produced by redistilling ethanol of an agricultural origin together with juniper berries and/ or other botanicals. There are lots of rules and regulations surrounding alcohol-by-volume levels, which can determine whether the end product be certified a London dry gin, dry gin, distilled gin or just straight juniper-flavoured spirit drink, but we know all of these as gin – or Mother’s Ruin. These are the labels you need to know about: Inverroche Gin Three different labels from a beautiful distillery in Stilbaai in the Cape. Proprietor Lorna Scott brought a wealth of knowledge back from Scotland to produce this classy product. Classic, Verdant and Amber are three expressions of some of the beautiful Cape fynbos that she carefully harvests locally and gently infuses into her distillate. Not to be missed.

Musgrave Crafted Gin Two sassy girls, both exlawyers, left their day jobs to start Hopkins, a Cape Town-based distillery. Musgrave gin was one of the first craft gins to emerge from South Africa and is a delicious melange of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and ginger aromas and flavours.

Cruxland Gin Not to be outdone, the KWV came to light with this delicious craft London dry gin made with Kalahari truffles. A grape distillate infused with nine different botanicals which include our world famous rooibos and heuningbos. I love this gin mixed with Socks tonic.

The Botanist Not local but definitely a favourite, this beautifully crafted, complex gin hails from the Scottish Isle of Islay at the distillery of Bruichladdich from whence all those peaty, smoky, masculine single malts emerge. The label describes it as ‘a roller-coaster botanical odyssey in a glass’ and we all agree.

Experiment with mixers and snippets of either fresh fruit, flowers or herbs to coax out the specific botanicals of each carefully crafted variety.

QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za. See p. 56.

40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

GASTROPUBS & WINE BARS ACE + PEARL AND WARM & GLAD Don’t mind the incongruous location in a nondescript centre by the side of busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this minimalistchic little bar has probably the best selection of boutique wines in Joburg. Leave the car at home and order a bottle or two – just the one glass will never be enough. Order French-inspired nibbles from the bar menu or for something more substantial the contemporary-styled Warm & Glad café and restaurant next door is run by the same management and patrons are encouraged to mix and mingle between the two venues. Wines change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events.QAlbans Square, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.acepearl.com. Open 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00–23:00, Sat 14:00–22:00. Closed Sun–Tue. Warm & Glad, www.warmandglad.com. Open 07:30–16:30, Tue– Fri 07:30–22:00, Sat 08:30–22:00. Closed Sun. B THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British gastropub trend, The Griffin deals in craft beers, top-notch posh pub food and fancy-looking wallpaper. Attentive staff who remember you on every visit and music you can actually talk over attract easy-going young professional types on their way home from the office.Q1 Corlett Dr (Illovo Junction, cnr Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za. Open 12:00– 23:00, Sun 12:00–16:30, Mon 17:00–23:00. BW L’OPULENCE Not strictly speaking a wine bar but this glittering gold lounge bar and contemporary tapas spot has an exceptional high-end wine selection and plenty of Champagne on ice for the high rollers. Regular theme parties attract a glamorous, fun-loving crowd and local stars such as 5FM’s DJ Fresh can often be found on the decks.QLegacy Corner (shop 310), adjoining Nelson Mandela Sq, 2 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 6984, lopulence.co.za.

Open 12:00–24:00. EL PARLIAMENT A rooftop gastropub with a serious focus on food. A balcony runs the length of the pub, offering sunset views over Sandton, and there’s a regularly changing selection of local craft beers and ciders. Not a late-night kind of place.QCnr Victoria Ave and 11th St, Benmore, tel. +27 11 783 1467, www.parliamentrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE An unusual location with an incredible view of the Sandton skyline. Every inch of this photogenic warehouse space is decorated with the owner’s amazing collection of antiques and vintage bric-a-brac. Retro party music and great craft beers make for a fun night out. The retro-styled Milk Bar downstairs is also worth a visit.Q6 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235, www.katyspalace. Open Wed 16:00–02:00. Milk Bar also open Fri 06:30–23:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife SMACK! REPUBLIC Award-winning beers brewed right in the Joburg City Centre. The (very) micro-brewery is based at Arts on Main in Maboneng, and every Sunday during the fashionable Market on Main (p. 55) you can meet the brewers and try one of their four signature beers – the crisp, blonde Bree Street Belle is our favourite.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, www.smackrepublic.com. Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

SAB World of Beer

BEERS AND BREWERIES You don’t need to go out of your way these days to find craft brews on tap – almost every decent bar in the city has at least two or three brands on its menu. Plus Joburg has a number of great micro-breweries producing some of the finest craft beers in the country.

GILROY’S PUB AND BREWERY Book in advance for a fun Saturday morning tour with wisecracking owner and brewmaster Steve Gilroy. The adjoining pub and beer garden is packed on weekends. Gilroy’s is located on Joburg’s northern fringes – the Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve and the Cradle of Humankind can be reached in 20 minutes.QCnr Beyers Naude and R411, Muldersdrift, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 11 796 3020, www.gilroybeers.co.za. Open Tue 11:00–18:00 (drinks only), Wed, Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00– 23:00, Sun 11:00–18:00. Closed Mon. Kitchen closes one hour earlier.

OAKES BREWHOUSE This all-women-run brewery sits under a giant oak tree on the grounds of an attractive old manor house in historic Modderfontein, a serene, green neighbourhood halfway between Sandton and O.R. Tambo airport. The adjoining 33 High Street restaurant is a great stop for lunch with your beer – choose from an easy-drinking American Pale Ale, Pilsner-style lager, or the dark and strong Butt Stout.QCnr Main Rd and High St, Modderfontein, tel. +27 83 260 7960, oakesbrewhouse.co.za. Open for beer tastings and sales 10:00–19:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00, Closed Mon. SAB WORLD OF BEER Founded in 1888 to satisfy the thirst of Joburg’s gold rush miners, the mega-brewer SAB Miller has since conquered the planet and produces dozens of world-renowned brands. The World of Beer tour is a light-hearted, multisensory experience tracing the history of all things beer, and includes two drinks at the rooftop bar.QC-4, 15 Helen Joseph St (cnr Gerard Sekoto St), Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 4900, www.worldofbeer.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00 (last tour 17:00, Sun, Mon last tour 16:00). Admission R95, students R85.

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SOWETO GOLD (UBUNTU KRAAL) You can find the signature Soweto Gold Lager at many of Joburg’s bars, and on a visit to the quirky Ubuntu Kraal craft brewery in Soweto you can also try their newest creations, such as the refreshing Soweto Gold Apple Ale, which pairs perfectly with one of the delicious meaty dishes from the brewery’s ‘gourmet township grill’ menu.

Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, Soweto, tel. +27 74 738 0355, www.sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THE COCKPIT BREWHOUSE Located in a pretty little Victorian house in Cullinan (around 40km east of Pretoria), Cockpit has an extensive range of award-winning ales and stouts and serves classic pub food.

Take a tour of Cullinan’s famous diamond mine, just 100m down the road (Premier Diamond Mine, tel. +27 12 734 0081, www.diamondtourscullinan.co.za), or drop by the brewhouse after a Dinokeng safari (see p. 44).Q80 Oak Ave, Cullinan, tel. +27 12 734 0656, www.thecockpitbrewhouse.co.za. Open Thu 12:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00– 21:00, Sun 11:00–16:00.

TRADITIONAL BEER Traditional homemade South African umqombothi is nothing like Europe’s sparkling, fizzy lagers or rich malty ales.

Made from maize or sorghum, umqombothi is an acquired taste – milky-caramel in colour and with a sour and slightly gritty palate, it has a low alcohol content (around 3%) and is often served warm. In any of Soweto’s many shebeens (informal township bars) you’ll find a mass-produced version of umqombothi, labelled Joburg Beer, on sale in distinctive red and white buckets or Tetra Pak cartons under the slogan The Taste of the Big City. Traditionally umqombothi is a shared drink, served in a large communal pot or calabash. It forms an important role in traditional ceremonies such as rituals in which ancestors are contacted (amadlozi), and many township tours include the opportunity to partake of a bowl of this special brew (see p. 50). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Chapter 12 Wild Joburg

Sleepy cats, Joburg Zoo Many people think of Joburg as a wild place – we do too, but probably for different reasons. For some time now wild animals that roamed what were once grassy plains have started to reappear across the city. Clive van den Berg’s giant The Eland sculpture (2007) marks a gateway district to the city, Braamfontein, and is a reminder of the majestic animal in a location from which it has long disappeared. Artist Faith47’s striking mural on our cover Una Salus Victis Nullam Sperare Salutem (2015) depicts zebras running across the city (cnr Fox and Rissik Sts, City Centre), reclaiming space from the concreteness of the city jungle. Within a few kilometres and radiating outwards from the city are opportunities to see animals in the wild and the ultimate sighting of the Big Five – African lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard, and white or black rhinoceros (tragically a species facing extinction because of the lucrative global trade in rhino horn). It’s not only animals that make Joburg wild – 500 000 years ago early Stone Agers camped on the hills of Melville Koppies, where geological formations can be traced back three billion years, and today the remains of our early human ancestors continue to be unearthed at Maropeng in the Cradle of Humankind. There are many ways to encounter wild Joburg and live to share the story. Here’s our top stops and wild things to look out for.

WILD THINGS AND PLACES GARDEN SAFARI Many a Joburg visitor has been awestruck by the sight of the prehistoric-looking hadeda ibis on garden patrol in Joburg.

They are usually in pursuit of the legendary Parktown prawn, a species of king cricket that would not be out of place in a horror movie. The prawns jump, kick, have a shell to repel any attempts to squash them, eat dog food and, when challenged, emit a weird gooey substance with a foul smell. If there were a Big Seven, they would be included. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Justin Lee

JOHANNESBURG ZOO While we think seeing animals in the wild is the best way to view them, the Joburg Zoo is an excellent way of getting up close to nearly 320 animal species, including the Big Five, white lion, brown bear, the endangered wattled crane and white rhino. One of the city’s most popular attractions, the zoo, founded in 1904, covers around 55 hectares of land and has a busy schedule of activities, including early-morning zoo trots and night visits.QJan Smuts Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org. za. Open 08:30–17:30 (last admission 16:00). Admission R75, for children, pensioners and students R46.

MELVILLE KOPPIES The Melville Koppies (‘koppie’ means ‘small hill’ in Afrikaans) is a mini-nature reserve and archaeological treasure with artefacts from the Stone and Iron Ages. The vegetation here is completely indigenous and represents the richness of Highveld grasses, flowers and trees. By far the best way to visit is on one of the guided walking tours or hikes offered at weekends – see the website for details of scheduled tours.QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org.za. Admission R50, for children R20.

MONTECASINO BIRD PARK With hundreds of fascinating bird species, from domestic to exotic, birds of prey plus a huge pelican and a sloth who gives slothfulness a good name, this is a super attraction for all ages. If possible, time your visit for the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows at weekends and on public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Blvd, cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 08:30–18:00. Admission R64 for adults and children over 10, pensioners and children under 10 pay R36.

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Wild Joburg

Morukuru River House, Madikwe

Thaba Eco Hotel game drive

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDEN One of Gauteng’s most beautiful parks 30 minutes’ drive from the city. A number of habitats can be viewed here, attracting a diverse and protected array of birdlife – at last count 226 species. In autumn you might be lucky enough to spot the Verreaux’s eagles diving dramatically in a display of courtship near their nest beside the waterfall. Various reptiles and mammals, including caracal (wild cat), small species of buck, black-backed jackal, South African hedgehog and Cape porcupine also live in the garden.

Many of these animals are nocturnal so the garden offers organised night walks in the warmer months.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/ gardens/walter-sisulu. Open 08:00–17:00. Admission R35, scholars R12, pensioners R25. Entrance for kids under 6 is free.

MORUKURU FAMILY For a seamless transition from stylish comfort in the city to luxury in the wild, book into these sister properties: the ultra-stylish and intimate boutique hotel Athol Place & Villa and Morukuru Family homes in Madikwe. You’ll find the fully staffed Owner’s House beneath the canopy of an ancient Morukuru tree on the edge of the Marico River.

River House is on the water’s edge, which is within strolling distance via a walkway. Farm House, set in a 100-hectare fenced area on the other side of the mountain, has five suites and is ideal for a large family getaway.QAthol Place & Villa, 90 Pretoria Ave, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 7553, www.morukuru.com.

ZOO LAKE Take a rowboat across Zoo Lake to admire the waterfowl at the island bird sanctuary, stroll about the sprawling parkland or use the one-kilometre-plus jogging path. There’s also a kids’ playground with swings and climbing equipment and plenty of geese (people think they’re ducks) eager to be fed. Be warned: they are actually a hardy gang of Egyptian geese that look tame until the bread comes out. If you decide to feed them aim high and far into the water so they don’t outflank you. Lately the geese have been joined by a flock of sacred Ibises. Pack a picnic basket or head to the family-friendly Moyo restaurant, where you can also sip sundowners and enjoy a meal on the deck overlooking the lake.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 646 1131.

Admission free.

WILD STAYS DINOKENG Just more than 100km from the city centre but still within the province’s limits is Dinokeng, the first free-roaming Big Five malaria-free game reserve in Gauteng. Ideal for a weekend getaway, you can choose from a variety of accommodation options that include fully catered, bed and breakfast, self-catering, tented camps and camping and caravanning facilities.QOff the R735, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 711 4391, www.dinokengreserve.co.za.

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RHINO AND LION NATURE RESERVE At this 1 200-hectare reserve situated in the Cradle of Humankind, a declared World Heritage Site about 40km north-west of Johannesburg, you can view more than 30 different animal species, among them lion, leopard, buffalo, white rhino, zebra, eland, wildebeest, hyena and wild dog.

For day visitors, picnic and braai facilities and a small swimming pool are available, or book an overnight stay in a chalet or log cabin. There are three restaurants on the property, and you can pre-book horse rides, hot-air balloon rides or abseiling into the Wonder Cave, believed to be 2,2 billion years old, to see amazing rock formations.QOff the R540, Krugersdorp, tel. +27 11 957 0349, rhinolion.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–18:00. Rates from R1 950 per night. Admission R140 for adults, R100 for children under 12.

THABA ECO HOTEL Set in Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, the largest proclaimed reserve in Joburg, eco-conscious Thaba Eco Hotel is an ideal family or romantic getaway 18km from the city centre. Stay in spacious luxury thatched rondavels, or for more privacy book into the contemporary-style rooms with incredible countryside views. The area is rich in flora, fauna, bird life and history. The hotel’s name refers to indigenous Tswana settlements dating back to 1300. Roam the grounds and encounter wildebeest and zebra on eco-walks and hikes, or book a horse ride. In winter months book a stargazing evening.Q46 Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel.co.za. Rates from R2 190. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Wild Joburg WILD NIGHTS GOOD LUCK BAR One of Joburg’s wildest periods can be traced to its time as a gold rush town, when fortune-seeking miners set up camp in Ferreirasdorp in the city centre. Drinking was so much part of Joburg then that the first post office was recorded as being a gin box placed in a tent in the mining encampment in 1886. This bar is named for the original Good Luck bar, one of the city’s first, which opened here in 1895.Q1 Fox St, Ferreirastown, City Centre, tel. +27 76 043 3893, www.1fox.co.za. Open Sat 10:00–24:00, Sun 10:00 until early evening.

ZEBRA INN Definitely one of the city’s quirkiest spaces. You’ll know the Zebra Inn by the bold stripes that cover the two-storey building, perched on a main route through the city. The signs outside advertise it as a hunting club, restaurant and bar, and takeaway den for ‘fast food at its best’. What we can vouch for are the cheap drinks, the charm of eccentric owner Swazi Werner, and a chance to throw off the trendy artsiness of neighbouring Maboneng for a wild night of live DJ music and pool. The bar is also a gallery for Werner’s vast collection of marathon medals and more than 100 taxidermied animals – the spoils from his days as a big game hunter. An African rock python skin stretches above the entire length of the wooden bar.Q252 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Kruger St), Maboneng, tel. +27 82 494 7763. Open daily from 12:00.

SAFARI DESTINATIONS The distances below are measured from Joburg. All of these are an easy drive on major roads and highways: Pilanesberg (183km) It’s only a three-hour drive from Joburg to the Pilanesberg Nature Reserve, a Big Five, malaria-free reserve set in the crater of an ancient volcano.

The reserve is also home to around 360 bird species, wild dogs, roan, tsessebi and sable antelope.Qwww. pilanesbergnationalpark.org.

Waterberg (292km) Although not as well known as the other areas mentioned here, this is a Unesco-protected biosphere reserve housing more than 1 500 private game lodges and the Marakele National Park, home to rare black rhino. Malaria-free and spectacularly scenic, its backdrop is the meeting place of four mountain ranges.Qwww.golimpopo.com/waterberg.

Madikwe (357km) The fifth-largest game reserve in South Africa is in North-West province on the border with Botswana. In this malaria-free Big Five reserve you might spot the endangered African wild dog.Qwww. madikwegamereserve.co.za.

Kruger National Park (405–561km) One of Africa’s largest Big Five reserves, spanning the provinces of Limpopo and Mpumalanga and unmatched for its diversity of animal, plant and bird species.Qwww.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/ default.php. Distance depends on which gate you enter. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Elephant in the City by Falko

Mark Straw

ANIMAL SANCTUARY BUSH BABIES MONKEY SANCTUARY Bush Babies cares for abused and orphaned primates in their natural habitat, located on seven hectares of land in a Magaliesburg Mountain gorge. Next door is an elephant sanctuary.QOff R512, Hartebeespoort, tel. +27 12 258 9908, www.monkeysanctuary.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00.

Tickets R275, pensioners R210, children under 14 R170.

MAROPENG Check into the Maropeng Hotel located in the Cradle of Humankind and designed to blend into the surrounding countryside overlooking the hills and valleys of this Unesco-protected reserve. Bookings include a ticket to the Maropeng museum and Sterkfontein Caves, two must-see attractions. Start the day with a visit to the Maropeng Visitors’ Centre located next to the hotel.

The word Maropeng means ‘returning to the place of our ancestors’ and the towering structure is designed to resemble an ancient burial mound. A visit takes you on a journey spiralling into the earth, led by educational and interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day, with a special focus on humankind’s fascinating evolution.

A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of world-famous hominids Little Foot and Mrs Ples were discovered. On a 45-minute guided tour you’ll learn more about how our early ancestors lived and about the wonders that archaeologists and paleoanthropologists continue to unearth, including the Cradle’s most important recent hominid discovery, homo naledi. The Cradle is an area of academic research with 16 fossil-rich sites, only two of which are open to the public.

QMaropeng Hotel R400 off R563 Hekpoort Rd, Sterkfontein, tel. +27 14 577 9100, www.maropeng. co.za. From R700 per night.

QVisitors’ Centre and caves open 09:00–17:00, last tour 16:00. Tickets from R120 for adults (Visitors’ Centre only), R165 (caves). A wide range of prices and combo tickets available.

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Sightseeing

Number 4 prison, Constitution Hill

APARTHEID HISTORY Johannesburg has been shaped by its apartheid history, and Nelson Mandela’s story is inextricably linked with this.

APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid, from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence, telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org.

Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R75, students, pensioners R60, under-18s R60 (not recommended for children younger than 10). K CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum with window display exhibits was once the offices of the first black law firm in the city, Mandela and Tambo Attorneys, a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheid’s restrictions on black life. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of Mandela as a boxer.QC-5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

SOPHIATOWN – THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced all its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is the site of a modern community centre and the historic home of Dr A.B. Xuma, who was ANC president in the 1940s. The house is now a museum dedicated to the culture of old Sophiatown and the memory of those forcibly removed from their homes. Look out for the centre’s monthly Sophiatown Jazz Encounters concert.Q73 Toby St, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, www.sophiatown.net. Open 10:00–14:00, Sat 09:00–13:00, or by appointment. Closed Fri, Sun. Walking tour of Sophiatown every Sat at 11:00 (costs R120, kids R40). Entrance R35, guided museum tour R70.

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CONSTITUTION HILL This vast complex includes the colonial-era Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the contemporary Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity and humanity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place. Visitors can also visit the impressive modern Constitutional Court building.

A wide range of tours is available.QD-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www. constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00 (last tour at 16:00), Wed last tour at 13:00. Sat, Sun 10:00–15:00. K HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM Soweto’s best museum, exhibits focus on the events surrounding the Soweto uprising of 1976 in which hundreds of protesting schoolchildren were shot by the apartheid police. A wealth of startling photography, personal testimonies, videos and informative texts are used to great effect.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R30.

LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the resistance movement and it was here that Mandela and his comrades formulated their plans for the armed struggle against apartheid. The displays offer fascinating insights into the Rivonia raid and trial, which led many of those involved to life in prison on Robben Island, as well as amazing stories of the liberation movement’s most audacious arms-smuggling operations. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00. Admission R60, children 8–17 years old R30, under 7, free. Guided tours from R110. K NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY Founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive, the centre’s permanent exhibition focuses on Mandela’s life and times and his dedication to social justice, complemented by many personal artefacts.Q107 Central St, Houghton, tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela.org. Visits by prior appointment only. Free entrance. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUMS Despite its young age (Joburg was only founded after the discovery of gold in 1886), the city has a rich history. For museums with a focus on South Africa’s apartheid history see p. 46; for more on the Ellis Park Rugby Museum see p. 13, and for the SAB World of Beer see p. 42. Find Maropeng and the Cradle of Humankind featured in our Wild Joburg feature (pp. 43–45) and the Origins Museum in our Braamfontein pages (pp. 34–37).

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of fascinating thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War, the Anglo-Boer Wars and armed resistance movements that fought against apartheid, such as Umkhonto we Sizwe (also known as ‘MK’, the armed wing of the African National Congress). An impressive range of military vehicles that you can climb into makes this an even more interactive experience.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www. ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Admission R35, children R25, pensioners R15.

LINDFIELD HOUSE On a quiet street in Auckland Park you’ll find this monument to mostly Victorian life (with some Edwardian references), presided over by Katherine Love who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Step inside, accompanied by Love who will be dressed as a parlour maid, and you will be transported to a different time as you are guided through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that brilliantly conjure the everyday life of the Victorians. End the visit with high tea – see p. 33.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, http://lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open 10:00–17:00, booking essential. Tours start from R50.

L. RON HUBBARD HOUSE Scientology founder L. Ron Hubbard lived in this impressive post-war modernist home atop Linksfield Ridge in the late 1960s. Owned by the Church of Scientology the house is now a museum dedicated to Hubbard’s life and times.

For most visitors the faithfully restored interiors resplendent with original 1960s furniture and decor, and the expansive views over the city are the biggest attraction.Q40 Hannaben St, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 054 0540, www.lrhhouse. org. Open 10:00–21:00. Admission free.

MONEY MUSEUM Hidden inside the sparkling halls of the Barclays Bank building is this little museum dedicated to all things money, detailing the evolution of currency from ancient times when whale teeth and shells were traded to 21st-century global banking. Interesting items include Roman coins and banknotes from across the world, old-fashioned piggy banks and a massive Victorian calculator. Note you must show a passport or driver’s licence to enter.QE-5, Barclays Tower West, 15 Troye St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 350 3003.

Open 08:30–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Satyagraha House, Orchards

JOBURG HOLOCAUST & GENOCIDE CENTRE Scheduled to open in April, this centre brings together the parallel historical narratives of the genocide committed by Nazi Germany in World War II Europe and the more recent genocide that occurred on African soil in Rwanda in 1994 (the year of South Africa’s transition from apartheid rule to democracy). The museum takes its message from the writings of death camp survivor Primo Levi: ‘It happened, therefore it can happen again’ and seeks to be a permanent reminder of the dangers of indifference.Q1 Duncombe Rd (cnr Jan Smuts Ave), Forest Town, tel. +27 11 640 3100, www.holocaust.org.za.

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908-1909 Gandhi lived here with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, a German-Jewish architect, who designed the space. He lived a simple meditative life, developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and nonviolent civil disobedience). The house is now a beautiful guesthouse and museum and offers visitors a contemplative and spiritual experience.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse. com. Open 10:30–16:00. Admission R40.

SCI-BONO DISCOVERY CENTRE Get switched on at the science museum where the exhibits engage and entertain growing minds and there’s something for all ages. Regular themed exhibitions and talks are part of the programme. The venue is also available for kids parties.QB-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono.co.za.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30–16:30. Admission R20, kids R10.

WORKERS MUSEUM Built in 1913 for male African migrant workers of the nearby power plant, until the early 1980s the small Newtown workers’ compound housed up to 300 men who were forced to live in appalling conditions. It is now a museum detailing the struggles of South Africa’s migrant workers and paying homage to their important role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.QB-4, 52 Rahima Moosa St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0600. Open 08:30– 16:30. Admission free.

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Sightseeing TOURS Taking a guided walk is the perfect way to experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view and is also a safe and easy way to encounter the streets of the city for the first time. We recommend these experienced tour guides. For tours of Soweto, see p. 50.

David Krut Projects, Parkwood

ART GALLERIES Joburg’s flourishing contemporary art scene has created prominence on the global stage for local artists, curators and gallerists. There is an impressive number of private galleries, all of which are free to visit and offer opportunity to interact with local artists during walkabouts and exhibition openings. The stretch of Jan Smuts Avenue between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues in Parkwood and Rosebank is Joburg’s Art Gallery Row, the perfect place to begin your exploration of the South African contemporary art scene. These are some of the highlights.

CIRCA AND EVERARD READ GALLERIES An architectural landmark, Circa Gallery specialises in contemporary fine art, sculpture and photography. The gallery is linked to the more classical Everard Read Gallery via a short walkway lined with a show-stopping sculpture collection.Q6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT PROJECTS & BOOKSTORE Specialising in print works, you’ll find the David Krut Projects gallery in Chester Court (142 Jan Smuts Ave), besides photography specialists Res Gallery, and Gallery 2. On the opposite side of the road is the extraordinary David Krut Bookstore, stocking a unique and handselected range of exquisite local and imported art books.

While you’re there, take a look at the adjoining shop Hadeda, which sells colourful crafted goods imported from Mexico.Q151 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 5646, www.davidkrutprojects.com. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY At the forefront of promoting contemporary art, Goodman’s focus is on artists who engage in a dialogue with the African context and the gallery represents leading figures William Kentridge, Sam Nhlengethwa and David Goldblatt.Q163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30– 17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS Jeff Mulaudzi, founder of Alexandra Bicycle Tours, meets visitors at the Marlboro Gautrain station (1 stop from Sandton) and takes small groups on two- or four-hour cycling tours of the historic Joburg township Alexandra, taking in historic sites and local ‘kasi’ food and culture.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, www.alexandratours.co.za. Tours from R300 to R400.

AFRICAN SECRETS Specialising in culinary walks through the city’s diverse immigrant communities such as Cyrildene’s Chinatown, Indian Fordsburg and the inner-city Ethiopian district Little Addis.QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets. co.za. Tours from R100. Four-hour private tours R2 250 per group.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS Open-top hop-on, hop-off bus with 11 stops, including Braamfontein, Newtown and the Apartheid Museum. Also links to a daily Soweto minibus tour and a walking tour of Maboneng with MainStreetWalks.QTel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Bus leaves from Park Station every 30–40 mins. Last bus 15:40.

DLALA NJE Walking tours around the tough inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturday) and Yeoville (Sunday), including a visit to the 52nd floor of the Ponte building for awe-inspiring views of the city. The Yeoville tour includes drinks and food at local African restaurants and a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org.

MAINSTREETWALKS Based in trendy Maboneng and specialising in inner-city tours that highlight the city’s history, its exciting art scene and myriad communities. Tours include street art walks, bar crawls and cycling tours. City Sightseeing Bus link runs Saturday–Sunday from Carlton Centre.QG-4, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za.

PAST EXPERIENCES Joburg’s Original Walking Tour Company offers a range of well-researched offbeat tours that take in the inner city, its communities, buildings, history, art and incredible graffiti, as well as tailor-made walking and shopping tours.QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. Check online for the regular weekend budget tours schedule. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto

Live music at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers Heather Mason In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up to fight against inferior education. But the history of Soweto goes back a lot further to the 1930s when its first suburbs Pimville and Orlando were built with the same motive of housing black South Africans who had flocked to the gold fields since 1886 in search of work. Today Soweto is home to close to 1,5 million people and its neighbourhoods are a diverse mix ranging from informal shacklands around Kliptown to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive. A top tourist attraction, Soweto has

ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING Regina Mundi Church played a significant role in the struggle against apartheid and has the bullet holes to prove it (1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville).

Mandela House Museum is the most popular attraction on Vilakazi Street (8115 Ngakane Street, corner Vilakazi Street).

The Hector Pieterson Museum is a deeply moving memorial to the events leading to the Soweto school uprising on June 16, 1976 (8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R30).

Walter Sisulu Square is where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955 and where you’ll find a fascinating small museum (Klipspruit Valley Rd, Soweto).

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it all: worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and a wealth of exciting new entrepreneurial initiatives. Whatever you choose to do in Soweto, you’ll find that it is the people who make your visit most memorable.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To really make the most of a first time visit it is best to take a tour with a local guide. For tourist information visit the Soweto Travel Bar at 8039 Vilakazi Street. A hub for local tourism providers, you can book tours and accommodation, rent a bike, find out about local events, catch an art exhibition, shop for local fashion and accessories or just hang out with a drink or two.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www. sowetobackpackers.com.

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This upmarket hotel looks out over Kliptown’s historic square and is themed around Soweto’s history. Order the signature cocktail, the Kliptini.QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za.

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Sightseeing: Soweto SOWETO TOURS

The former home of political activist Charlotte Maxeke, Kliptown

KLIPTOWN TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo Dube (also known as TK, of TKD Tours) specialises in walking tours of this poor neighbourhood with an astonishingly rich history. TK takes visitors into the heart of the community and connects them with locals who have engrossing stories to share. Tours are very flexible and adapt to the interests of each group, whether it be the traditional medicine stalls, local workshops, architecture, community gardens, graffiti or street food that catch your eye. A highlight of every tour is a visit to the extraordinary house-museum of local historian and photographer Oom Bolo who regales visitors with eye-opening personal stories of historic Kliptown and life under apartheid. Tours also include a visit to the inspirational local NGO Soweto Kliptown Youth, a community centre providing Kliptown’s neglected children with a range of programmes focused on empowerment and life skills.QCall Ntokozo Dube +27 73 133 5234 or email tktours.dube13@gmail.com to book.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Run by local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa, choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours by bike or tuk-tuk of Soweto, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art, local delicacies and traditional African customs. Just remember to bring your sunscreen, even in winter the sun can be fierce. Tours end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back with a cold drink and delicious bunny chow in the lovely garden in front of Lebo’s backpackers. Tours can be customised.

QTours leave from Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, 10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, www.sowetobicycle-tours.com.

BAY OF GRACE TOURS Passionate conservationist Raymond Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide offering bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam that show a very different side to Soweto township life.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours.wozaonline.com.

EYITHA TOURS Mbali Zwane’s ‘Sophiatown to Soweto’ tour starts in Joburg’s Sophiatown, a once vibrant multi-racial community that was completely demolished in 1955 when the apartheid government declared it a ‘whites-only’ suburb.

The tour traces the lives of those forcibly evicted from Sophiatown to Meadowlands in Soweto, where residents share their personal stories of life before and after the forced removals. Tour also includes visits to Soweto’s main heritage landmarks.QCall Mbali on tel. +27 79 319 0578 to book, eyithatours.yolasite.com. Cost R500 per person.

SOWETO MAP

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Sightseeing: Soweto COOL SOWETO Don’t visit Soweto looking only for evidence of the past – you’ll miss out on its exciting contemporary life. To sample local craft beers visit Soweto Gold brewery (see p. 42) or join local fixie bike hipster cyclists Fixin Diaries (www.fixindiaries.co.za) for regular social cycling events.

EYETHU LIFESTYLE CENTRE A local arts and culture hub Eyethu hosts regular live music events and houses a gallery promoting young artists, as well as the smart wine bar, restaurant and lounge Eyethu Cellar Door. A worthwhile detour for lunch or dinner.QCnr Machaba Dr and Ishabalala St, Mofolo, tel. +27 27 72 987 9886, www.eyethucellardoor.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 14:00–01:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Thesis Concept Store, Mofolo

EAT SOWETO

ORLANDO TOWERS Covered in murals inspired by the township’s rich cultural history, these cooling towers are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark. A magnet for thrill-seekers, you can bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top (see p. 58), and at the nearby Soweto Outdoor Adventures (+27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za) try rock climbing, go-karting and paintballing or take a quad bike tour of Soweto.QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset or by prior arrangement.

Township cuisine is typically centred around meat, served shisa nyama-style (barbecued) or as a rich stew, and accompanied by pap (thick maize porridge), morogo (wild leafy vegetables) and spicy chakalaka relish.

Alongside the usual cuts are specialities like tripe, ox liver, skop (slow braised cow’s head) and walkie talkies (spiced, grilled chicken feet). Sometimes nicknamed ‘township sandwiches’ Bunny chows and kotas (hollowed-out loaves of bread filled with curry or chips and sausage meat) are sold on the street. For a typical local lunch try one of these places:

THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store has been selling its own clothing brand since 2008. The brand references Soweto street culture and their slogan T-shirts and ‘bucket’ hats are among their most loved products. Thesis also hosts street parties and a social running club.Q173 Mashsaba Dr, Mofolo, tel. +27 11 982 1182, thesissocialjamsession.blogspot.com.

Open 10:30–19:30. Closed Mon.

CHAF POZI Looking over Orlando Towers is this huge shisa nyama restaurant. The set-up is beer garden style, the sizzling, spiced meats are barbecued to order and there’s a party atmosphere on weekends.QOrlando Towers, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www.chafpozi.co.za.

Open Wed, Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

LOCRATE MARKET Mixing food trucks, craft beers, cool handmade items, street fashion and vintage finds that weekend market aficionados love, with a distinctly Soweto kind of cool courtesy of local DJs and musicians. Started by two Soweto brothers, the market has an innovative programme of events.QCnr Kudu St and Moema St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Open every 1st Sun of the month, from 10:00–17:00. Check website for venue details.

SOWETO ART AND CRAFT FAIR A relaxed, family-friendly place to enjoy the weekend buzz with musicians and poets playing on the open-air stage and stalls selling local art, crafts, fashion and food.

The last Sunday of the month is Seven Colour Sundays where food vendors serve up traditional homemade specialities.QSoweto Theatre, Cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, www.sowetotheatre.com. Open first Sat and Sun of the month from 12:00–21:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LEBO’S OUTDOOR RESTAURANT Part of Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (see p. 49), come here for the best bunny chows made with the freshest bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast iron pot).QLebo’s Soweto Backpackers. Lunch 12:00–14:00. Breakfast available 07:30–10:30, dinner 18:30–20:00. Groups require prior booking.

VILAKAZI STREET This is the heart of Soweto’s tourist route. Take your pick from an array of traditional and modern eateries along Soweto’s most famous street, once home to both Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela. For hearty African stews there’s Sakhumzi, for kotas stop in at Mandela Family Restaurant and for a mix of traditional and modern cuisine try Nambitha, NexDor or Thrive Café. At the bottom of the street the huge KwaLichaba Car Wash and Pub is a weekend social hotspot with a braai menu. Jostle for space with craft sellers, tour groups, car guards and coaches.

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Sightseeing: Pretoria THE UNION BUILDINGS Designed by Sir Herbert Baker in 1910, the impressive Union Buildings are the official office of the president and were originally built to commemorate the union of the South African British colonies into one country. Although you cannot enter, you can still admire the exterior, the imposing Nelson Mandela statue and the wonderful views across the city.QGovernment Ave, Arcadia.

Voortrekker Monument

Just 50km away, Pretoria in Tshwane is a gentle antidote to Joburg’s frenetic pace. It is also three degrees warmer.

Founded in 1855, the city has a rich history and culture and there’s plenty to see on a day trip or weekend away. Beat the traffic blues with a Gautrain trip (see p. 17), and while there use the Gautrain buses or the new bus rapid transport network A Re Yeng.

WHAT TO SEE CHURCH SQUARE The grand square in the heart of the city is surrounded by beautiful old buildings such as the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela and his compatriots were sentenced to life in prison during the famous Rivonia Trial of 1964 and the Flemish Renaissance styled Ou Nederlandsche Bank. At the centre is a statue of Afrikaans leader and Transvaal President Paul Kruger. Survey the square from the terrace at the quaint art nouveau Café Riche.

FREEDOM PARK The 52-hectare Freedom Park is an impressive memorial themed around humanity, freedom and healing that is dedicated to the memory of the many South Africans who died in the country’s long struggle for freedom, democracy and equal rights for all.QCnr Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, tel. +27 12 336 4000, www.freedompark.co.za.

JAN SMUTS HOUSE MUSEUM This immaculate museum in the suburb of Irene brings to life the Smuts family’s Doornkloof home and reveals much about the life of the statesman and much decorated general Jan Cristiaan Smuts (1870-1950).QJan Smuts Ave, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 1180, www.jansmutshouse.co.za.

Open 08:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 08:30–16:30.

PRETORIA ART MUSEUM For an overview of 20th and 21st-century South African art and regular exhibitions, visit the Pretoria Art Museum.

Opened in 1962 the building is a fine example of the International Style in architecture, set within a slightly neglected sculpture park.QCnr Francis Baard and Wessels Sts, Arcadia Park, tel. + 21 12 344 1807. Open 10:00–17:00, Wed 10:00–20:00, Sun 12:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets R22.

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VOORTREKKER MONUMENT Inaugurated in 1938 to commemorate the Great Trek – the often treacherous journey that Boer farming families undertook during the 1830s and 1840s from the Cape Colony to escape British control, this imposing 40m-high granite structure is located on a hill next to the old Fort Schanskop which contains a small exhibition about the Anglo-Boer Wars.

QEeufees Rd, Groenkloof, tel. +27 12 326 6770, www. vtm.org.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Tickets R55, kids R30.

WHERE TO STAY AFRICAN PRIDE IRENE COUNTRY LODGE A luxury bolthole for a weekend getaway with an excellent spa, picturesque views over rolling lawns and an adjoining golf course.QNellmapius Drive, Irene, tel. +27 12 667 6464, www.irenecountrylodge.co.za.

PROTEA HOTEL FIRE AND ICE! MENLYN Graffitied walls, a signature milkshake bar, DJ sessions, comedy nights and half-a-metre long pizzas served at the pool deck. A fun hotel with lots of personality.Q213 Thys St, Summit Place Precinct, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 471 8600, www.proteahotels.com.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK SAVANNA NEW One of the best places in Pretoria to try authentic African dishes from around the continent such as Malian mafe, Nigerian egusi soup or grilled tilapia with Congolese pondu sauce. Friendly service and a no frills atmosphere.QUnipark, 725 Arcadia St, Arcadia, tel. +27 61 897 1978. Open 08:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–21:00.

GINGER & FIG Drop by this hip little café in Hatfield for super breakfasts, coffee and the ‘cruffin’, a delicious croissant-muffin hybrid.

QBrooklyn Centre, 751 Jan Shoba St, Brooklyn, tel. +27 12 362 5926, www.gingerandfig.co.za. Open Mon 07:00–17:30, Tue–Fri 06:00–09:00, Sat 07:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–13:00.

CAPITAL CRAFT BEER ACADEMY NEW Steampunk workshop meets Alpine beer hall in this temple to all things craft beer. Choose from more than 100 beers from South Africa and beyond.QGreenlyn Village Centre, Thomas Edison St, Menlo Park, tel. +27 12 424 8601, www.capitalcraft.co.za. Open Tue 14.00–24:00, Wed–Sat 10:30–24:00, Sun 10:30–20:00. Closed Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Dr Pachanga, Work Shop New Town With fine weather a feature of Joburg summers plus plenty to buy we recommend these shopping destinations where you can spend as much time indoors as outdoors. Here you can enjoy a meal or a drink and some people-watching in a sheltered courtyard or open city square, with plenty of shopping bags arrayed at your side.

ROSEBANK

DIRECTORY Rosebank Mall Entrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Craddock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.rosebankmall.co.za. Open from 09:00-18:00, Fri 09:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00.

Rosebank Art & Craft Market Craddock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, www.artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00-18:00, Fri 09:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00.

This popular shopping district with its three interlinked malls has hundreds of stores, as well as a wide range of dining options and the best African craft market in the city. At the heart of the district is Rosebank Mall with an impressive array of local and international high street brands plus a Planet Fitness gym and arthouse Cinema Nouveau.

Stop in at Exclusive Books for tasty African bean coffees and to stock up on all the latest titles. For camping and safari essentials visit Cape Union Mart, pick up a comfy pair of South African leather sandals at Tsonga, pure South African mohair shawls and eye-catching jewellery pieces crafted with ostrich egg at Indegenius, and buy unique Joburg postcards and notebooks at Iwasshot in Joburg :).

The Rosebank Art & Craft Market adjoining the mall is a must-visit for all your souvenir needs. You’ll find keyrings and magnets, jewellery, and clothing in bold African-prints here plus cute beaded animals, carved wooden figurines, paintings and even furniture, sold by traders who represent the united nations of Africa. On Sundays visit the excellent rooftop Rosebank Sunday Market (see p. 55) with its delicious food stalls, loads of arts and crafts stalls, plenty of entertainment for the kids and vintage bric-a-brac, antiques and accessories to browse.

The pedestrianised Zone@Rosebank and The Firs have a wide choice of popular restaurant and fast food chains with streetside or courtyard seating. If you are here at night drop by Liquid Chefs or News Café for cocktails or Katzy’s jazz bar in the Firs centre. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Shopping

Rosebank Art & Craft Market

Work Shop New Town

NEWTOWN

MELVILLE

The heritage district of Newtown, an area known as Joburg’s cultural precinct, is where you will find the landmark Market Theatre (celebrating 40 years of local theatre productions), MuseumAfrica, the Worker’s Museum, Sci-Bono Science Museum and the city’s most exciting new shopping development Work Shop New Town.

Work Shop New Town brings together more than 30 South African clothing, jewellery, accessories and crafted goods labels in a space first constructed in 1911 to house the Potato Sheds of the city’s fresh produce market. Running alongside the store is the railway track that kept early Johannesburg supplied with fresh food and goods. The Potato Sheds look onto the busy square of Newtown Junction shopping centre, and next door is The Potato Shed, a barbecue smokehouse restaurant.

Among the brands to look out for are Wolf & Maiden for hand-stitched leather handbags and accessories, and Maxhosa by Laduma for show-stopping knitwear pieces carrying the brand’s distinctive geometric patterns inspired by the amakrwala (Xhosa initiates) tradition of having to dress up in new formal clothing following their initiation into manhood. Then there’s Pichulik for statement neckpieces made from rope, and Maria McCloy Accessories for shoes for him and her in vibrant African prints. For colourful and well-cut dresses, stop in at Kisua. We also love Vernac’s accessories made from woven plastic China shopping bags, Famke’s delicate silver and brass jewellery, thrift store treasure-finder Dr Pachanga and elegant pieces by Kat Van Duinen. At Glitter Bar you can take a break from shopping and have your nails done.

While most people know Melville as a nightlife capital for students, Joburg visitors, filmmakers and down-with-thepeople creative set, by day it’s a fun shopping destination with its main streets easily accessible on foot. New on the block is 27 Boxes, a container shopping complex with an exciting array of local brands including Black Coffee for artfully constructed fashion statements, Love Jozi for iconic T-shirts and homeware pieces that celebrate Joburg, Yda Walt for her fun screen-printed designs, and Republic of Recycle for the cleverest and most attractive ways to wear re-used items made from washing-powder bags and crisps packets.

The centre’s open courtyard, amphitheatre and playground make this a great hangout spot. If you live by the maxim that life is short, start your meal with dessert. Head straight to Von Pickartz for memorable Belgian waffles topped with nutella, strawberries, vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce, or Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream for mouthwatering flavours. For a plate of grilled prawns and fries that you will want to drench in the house sauces, go to Prawn Stars, and for a restaurant experience get a table at the steampunk-style smokehouse The Countess for plates of ribs, brisket and other meaty cuts accompanied by the restaurant’s pickles, homemade preserves and smoky sauces. On 7th Street vintage fans will adore Reminiscene, while Bookdealers has excellent used titles. For lunch or drinks on the terrace and tasty contemporary South African fare stop at Lucky Bean. The restaurant also hosts food and music evenings. Booking for these is essential. On 9th Street is the boutique Bamboo Centre (see p. 57).

DIRECTORY Work Shop New Town B-4, 100 Carr St, Newtown Junction, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), www.workshopnewtown.com. Open 11:00–19:00, Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

Newtown Junction Cnr Miriam Makeba and Carr Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0105, newtownjunction.com.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00.

The Potato Shed Newtown Junction, cnr Miriam Makeba and Carr Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 590 6133. Open Mon 12:00–16:00, Tue, Wed 12:00–22:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 10:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–18:00. Closed Thu.

DIRECTORY 27 Boxes 75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, www.27Boxes.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

Closed Mon. Reminiscene 2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7905, www. vintageclothing.mahoonas.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. Bookdealers 12 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 4054, www.bookdealers.co.za. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00– 21:00, Mon 09:00–21:00.

Lucky Bean 16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckyb.co.za. Open 11:00 until late. Closed Mon.

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Shopping FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, the neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, today the predominantly muslim area is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. In the centre is the Oriental Plaza with more than 350 stores selling colourful Indian fabrics, Asian spices, jewellery, brassware, kid’s toys, wedding ware, glamorous evening dresses and contemporary fashion. After filling up on the best coconut samosas at the legendary World of Samoosa, make your way down to the Fordsburg Square flea market on Commercial Rd (between Mint and Central Rds), particularly lively at weekends, for cheap and cheerful trinkets, knock-off DVDs and fresh coconuts. For traditional sweet meats head to nearby Shalimar Delights.QOriental Plaza A-4, 38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St (formerly Bree St), Fordsburg, www.orientalplaza.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30– 15:00. Closed Sun, and during Friday prayers 12:00–14:00.

MARKETS Craft and food markets are popular hangouts and a great way to mingle among locals. For the biggest selection of good quality African crafts and souvenirs the Rosebank Art & Craft Market is open every day (see p. 53). On Saturday mornings Braamfontein is the place to be, jostling hipsters for space at the Neighbourhoods Market (see p. 35). In Soweto visit the hip monthly Locrate Market or Soweto Art & Craft Market (see p. 51).

BRYANSTON ORGANIC MARKET This is Joburg’s original outdoor market, in existence for close on 40 years and still offering a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. From African arts and crafts and health and wellness products to preservative-free and colourant-free home-baked goods, plus authentic Panama hats, there’s plenty of dream catchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight.

Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www. bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

MARKET ON MAIN The Sunday heartbeat of the trendy downtown Maboneng district. Food and design are centre stage with dozens of gourmet food stalls downstairs and vintage fashion and

Frames from Woodiz at Market on Main

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hipster design items one floor up. Housed in an old industrial building that flows into a central grassy courtyard this is a great starting point for exploring this happening neighbourhood.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 868 1335. www.marketonmain. co.za. Open Sun 10:00–15:00. Full moon night market last Thu of the month 19:00–23:00 at Common Ground (2 Beacon Rd).

NORTH WEST MARKET On the rooftop of Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes centre you’ll find this weekly night market which brings together local fashion and design brands, gourmet snacks, cold craft beers and cocktails plus DJ sets from 27 Boxes residents We Heart Beat.Q27 Boxes, 75 3rd Ave (parking entrance on 4th Ave), Melville, www.nwmarket.co.za. Open every Wed 16:00–22:00 and last Sun of the month 09:00–16:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET There are lots of treasures waiting to be found at this popular rooftop market. The massive covered space accommodates talented crafters working with myriad materials, as well as local fashion stalls, second-hand books, antique bric-a-brac, unique artworks and design pieces, farmhouse produce and vintage clothing. Relax with beers or cocktails from the rooftop bar while you listen to live music and enjoy a delicious lunch from the food stalls – the spicy Malaysian beef rendang curry is our favourite.QRosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, www. rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

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Shopping

From left: Ceramic Factory, cushion by Halsted, Pichulik’s Angelos wing neckpiece from Work Shop New Town

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES From handblown glass and ceramics to custom-made jewels and the finest craft gin, fill your shopping bags here.

HALSTED NEW Fee Halsted set up Ardmore Farm in the late 1980s in rural Kwazulu-Natal. There she brought together Western ceramics techniques with African art, working with talented young artists to create mesmerising pieces, rich in colour and whimsy, delicately hand-painted, their witty designs inspired by the natural environment and local folkloric traditions. These pieces are now modern-day collectables. Halsted translates the intricate hand-painted ceramic motifs into homeware fabrics and accessories.QShop 17, Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, www.halsteddesign.com.

Open 09:00 –17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. COLLECTORS TREASURY For browsers it doesn’t get much better than this bookshop specialising in second-hand and rare editions. Founded in 1974, Collectors Treasury stocks a dizzying array of books, maps, collectibles, engravings, prints, porcelain, fine china, vinyl records and small antiques spread over a few floors of an eight-storey city block. And if they have what you ask for, the owners will locate it, as if by some miracle. The books are heaped along walls, staircases, and arranged atop any surface that will hold them. Take your time to unearth some treasures.QF-4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 334 6556. www.antiqbook.com/ bookdealer.phtml?o=collectorstreasury. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. MUSEUM OF MAN AND SCIENCE Not quite a museum but certainly a fascinating cultural trip with plenty of curiosities. This traditional medicine or muti shop has been around for over 60 years stocking more than 1900 indigenous herbs prescribed by inyangas (traditional healers). A desiccated monkey carcass has been pinned to the wall for at least the past 20 years and the ceiling is a sea of dried herbs, strings of beads and animal remains.QC-4/5, 14 Diagonal St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 836 4470. Open 07:30–17:00, Sat 07:30–13:30. Closed Sun. 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BRYLLIANTA DIAMONDS & TANZANITE This appointment-only destination is a plush, private and secure jewel boutique offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton. Owner Bryna’s many years of experience will ensure that you can tell the difference between your carats and your carrots, and understand the quality and value of stones before you make your purchase.Q16th Floor, Office 06, The Forum of Sandton Square (2 Maude St), Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 7867, www.bryllianta.com.

CERAMIC FACTORY Quirky and functional ceramic design items that are uniquely South African. Ceramic Factory constantly produces new ranges, often with an updated retro feel and lots of humour.

Its Linden concept store has just received a dramatic makeover. Ask to see the biltong plate, a superb modern take on serving this local delicacy.Q59 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 11 057 4314, www.ceramicfactory.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. TINSEL GALLERY Geraldine Fenn and Eric Loubser’s exquisitely curated gallery showcases unique locally-made contemporary jewellery pieces by South Africa’s top designers. Fenn and Loubser also create custom-designed pieces at their on-site studio. The gallery hosts a number of exhibitions and popup shows throughout the year. See their website for details of upcoming shows.Q11 Cecilia Ave, Risidale, tel. +27 11 782 4051, www.tinselgallery.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat by appointment only. Closed Sun. NORMAN GOODFELLOWS The collector of wine, spirits or craft beer cannot do better than this drinks emporium, which specialises in expert advice and service and stocks a superb range of local and imported brands. In addition, it sells an impressive range of glassware, decanters and drinks accessories. An online store offers deliveries nationwide and there’s an international gift service for sending home your favourite wines. See p. 40 for gin recommendations.Q192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, Sandton, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Other branches can be found in Melrose Arch and Benmore. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping SMELT NEW This glass studio and gallery in the courtyard at Factory on Grant, Norwood’s cute shopping complex, will lure you in with its array of eye-catching glass objects swirling with colour. From chunky perfume bottles to bowls and paperweights, each item is unique and has been hand-blown in the studio, where you can book your own glass blowing session.Q70 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 82 457 1674, www.moltenglass.co.za. Open 09:00-17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00-14:00. Closed Mon. LOVE JOZI This innovative T-shirt and design company mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, finding inspiration in the rise of Joburg as a world city. Buy the well-cut designer T-shirts and objects with with bold graphic prints. The latest range includes a shopper emblazoned with what has become Joburg’s most familiar bird, the Ibis hadeda. The store shares space with top drawer fashion label Black Coffee. You can also find these labels at Work Shop New Town (see p. 54).Q27 Boxes, 75 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.lovejozi.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) ‘From the streets of Joburg to the streets of the world’ is the tagline of this innovative studio, an outlet for former street kids who receive photography training. iwasshot in joburg :) produces a range of products that include mounted canvases of their unique urban photographs, T-shirts, notebooks, cushions and photo frames. It sells them from a studio in Maboneng, a kiosk at Rosebank Mall (see p. 53) and online.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, www.iwasshot.com.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

PRESIDENTIAL SHIRTS NEW In 1994, designer Desre Buirski gave a hand-printed batik shirt to Nelson Mandela’s bodyguard with an accompanying note thanking him for his sacrifices. He was photographed for the front page of local newspaper wearing it the next day. The handpainted silk shirts she subsequently designed for the president became known as ’the Madiba shirt’. Today the brand stocks shirts, kaftans and sarongs.

QNelson Mandela Square, entrance on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 784 2394, www.presidential.co.za.

SHWE SHWE POPPIS NEW Not a standalone store but a delightful creation, Shwe Shwe Poppis are colourful fantasy figures hand-sewn from drawings by kids at a Soweto crèche. Shweshwe is a patterned fabric first imported by missionaries and used in the traditional dress of Xhosa women. The Shwe Shwe Poppis range includes dolls, bean bags, children’s aprons, key rings and other fun accessories. Available at Rosebank Sunday Market (see p. 55) and Motherland Coffee in Dunkeld and Rosebank (www.motherlandcoffee.com).Qwww.shweshwepoppis.com, tel. +27 11 931 6229. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Hadeda shopper, Love Jozi

SHOPPING CENTRES You have arrived in mall city. From the excellent Rosebank Mall that throngs with young things shopping for the newest trend and families enjoying Rosebank’s streetside cafés (p. 53) to Melville’s quirky shipping container complex 27 Boxes (p. 54) or Fordsburg’s busy Oriental Plaza with its bargain-priced fashions and homewares, there’s a mall for everyone (p. 55).

Sandton City, adjoining Nelson Mandela Square, is Joburg’s biggest mall and Diamond Walk is its swankiest section. Once you finally figure out your way around you’ll find everything you need under one roof. Hyde Park Corner is full of designer stores, ladies who lunch and the rest of the Porsche Cayenne four-wheel-driveowning jet set. Small boutique-sized shopping centres are also popular. The charming little 44 Stanley, in a converted 1930s industrial complex, is packed with cute courtyards cafes and chic little boutiques. In Melville the petite Bamboo centre houses a sophisticated collection of local fashion stores, cafés and an independent bookshop Love Books and in upmarket Bedfordview, Village View is a good destination for eating, drinking, pampering and socialising, just 15mins drive from O.R. Tambo airport.

SANDTON CITY Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

HYDE PARK CORNER 6th Rd (cnr Jan Smuts Ave), Hyde Park, www.hydeparkshopping.co.za. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00.

VILLAGE VIEW Cnr Kloof and Van Buuren Rds, Bedfordview, www.villageview.co.za 44 STANLEY 44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, www.44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00– 15:00. Most stores and cafes closed Mon. BAMBOO Cnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, www.bamboo-online.co.za. Most stores open stores 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00.

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Sport & Outdoors HYUNDAI BALLOON This tethered hot-air balloon rises 120m above an unexpectedly lush green Mushroom Farm Park (Hyundai Sky Park) in Sandton Central’s business district. Weather permitting you can enjoy an incredible view over Sandton. This park also has a playground, hilly landscaped lawns and an outdoor gym making it popular with families for weekend picnics.QDaisy St, off Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 6881. Open 08:00-18:00.For adults R95, kids under 10 pay R65. Special packages include a Champagne basket ride (R600), or one with a picnic basket (R300).

Orlando Towers, Soweto

AERIAL ADVENTURES There are many ways to get high in Joburg and all of the ones listed below won’t get you into any serious trouble. To make your choices easier we have arranged them in order of how fast they’ll make your pulse race. iJUMP One thousand square metres of trampoline fun for kids and adults. An array of in-house ‘i-jumpers’ are on hand to show you the ropes and help you attempt gravity-defying tricks and backflips, and the arena also has a bouncing dodgeball section and basketball ‘court’.QClearwater Crossing, Corner Hendrik Potgieter and Christiaan De Wet (Rd or Drive?), Roodepoort, www.ijump.co.za. Open Mon-Thu 09:00–21:00, Fri 09:00–22:00, Sat 08:00–22:00, Sun 08:00–20:00. Last jump session two hours before closing. Cost R120 (from age 7 up) or R70 (age 2–6).

ROOF OF AFRICA Despite being built in the 1970s, the hulking 223m colossus that is the Carlton Centre is still Africa’s tallest skyscraper.

Nowadays the Carlton, like the rest of the area around it, is no longer a prestigious address but the 50th-floor 360-degree view is unrivalled. Telescopes are a welcome addition to the bird’s-eye experience. Head down the escalators in the Carlton Centre Mall and look out for the Roof of Africa logo at the start of a corridor to your left.QCarlton Centre, 150 Commissioner St, City Centre, City Centre, tel. +27 11 308 1331. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 09:00– 14:00. Admission R15, children under 10 years old R10.

DLALA NJE This innovative tour company, meaning ‘Just Play’ in Zulu, funds the community centre at Ponte City. This building was once the most notorious of Joburg landmarks and is now a beacon of hope in the tough neighbourhood of Hillbrow. Dlala Nje offers tours into Hillbrow and neighbouring Yeoville, both areas with diverse immigrant communities from across Africa. Their night tours are a culinary adventure that start with a stopover on the fascinating Yeoville ridge where preachers stake out their territory and host their congregations. From there you will get a taste of Cameroonian and Congolese food on Yeoville’s main street, followed by a nightcap in a 52nd-floor apartment in Ponte City.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org.

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ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area in Melrose. There are a range of obstacle courses that cater to a variety of age groups and strict safety procedures are in place. Choose from five courses plus the 200m Big Zip Line. Finish the adventure with the taste of delicious French crepes sold at the restaurant.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 78 438 7463, www.acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00-15:00, Prices start at R100 for ages 3-6, R110 for 7+. Up to R250 depending on course.

CITY ROCK JOHANNESBURG This indoor climbing gym, one of the biggest in the southern hemisphere has a staggering set of numbers: 28 000 grips, 2 000m² of high wall climbing, 124 top rope anchors, 9 automatic belay walls. Climbing safety is top of mind here with new climbers and belayers required to pass the compulsory Top Rope Belay test after an introductory video or course.Q173 Republic Road and Fourth Lane South, Fountainbleau, Randburg, tel. +27 10 007 2732, http:// cityrock.co.za/johannesburg.

GOLD REEF CITY Rated as having a fear factor of 10 the Tower of Terror at Gold Reef City Amusement Park involves a heart-stopping 50m drop at a speed of 100km per hour into an open mine shaft. Park officials advise you to bring a change of clothing.

For an ever so slightly less thrilling experience ride the Anaconda, an inverted roller coaster. You can hear the screams from the parking lot.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity. co.za. Open Wed to Sun 09:30–17:00, daily during school holidays (March 18–April 5). Admission R165. Group discounts available. Only open in mild weather.

ORLANDO TOWERS Bungee, swing, climb, abseil or scad fall at Soweto’s iconic towers. If you don’t have the stomach for the drop, ride up to the viewing platform for an eyeful of Soweto. Arrive on the day or book in advance. Groups of six or more require advance bookings.QOrlando Towers, Dynamo St (cnr Old Potch Rd), Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www. orlandotowers.co.za. Open Thu–Sun 10:00 until sunset.

Also open during the week for large groups by prior arrangement. Cost R550 for bungee, R450 for power swing and R80 to ride to the viewing platform. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Advanced

Contacts

Book a two hour, four hour or full day tour of Soweto by bike with Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tours.

Soweto is relatively flat making for an easy ride and there’s always an interesting rest stop around the corner.

Join Critical Mass for the monthly mass cycle around the inner-city, including a pit stop in trendy Maboneng. Cyclists of all ages show up in their brightest gear to reclaim the night time streets for two-wheelers. If you don’t have your own bike, contact the organisers in advance to arrange rental.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Tel. +27 11 936 3444, lebo@sowetobackpackers.com, www.sowetobicycletours.com.

CRITICAL MASS starts at cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein at 19:00 on the last Friday of every month. jhb.criticalmass.co.za.

Novice golfers can take advantage of the nine-hole mashie course at Huddle Park. One of the only public courses in Joburg, the pace is very relaxed and there’s also a crazy golf puttputt course.

You’ll find no shortage of world class courses in Joburg. Among the most challenging are the beautiful championship course at Glendower and the Rocklands course at Country Club Johannesburg (CCJ) with its fiendish rough.

HUDDLE PARK Club St, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 640 4456, www.huddlepark.com.

GLENDOWER 20 Marais Rd, Dowerglen Ext 2, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 453 1013, www.glendower.co.za CCJ Lincoln St, Woodmead, tel. +27 11 202 1600, www.thecountryclub.co.za.

Choose from a number of easy nature trails meandering through the scenic Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens (see p.

44 for more). The longest is the 5.3km Geological trail which ascends the Witpoortjie waterfall.

Rise early to tackle the Hennops Hik- WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL ing Trail with its unique indigenous GARDENS Malcom Rd, Roodflora and panoramic views over the epoort. Open 09:00–17:00.

Magaliesberg mountains. For expe- HENNOPS Entrance off the R511, rienced hikers the 11.3km Krokodil- 10km south of the R105 junction berg Route takes about four hours.

(45 minutes’ drive north of Sandton), www.hennopstrails.co.za.

Last entrance 12:00.

Running

Run, walk or amble through Joburg’s finest parklands at one of the social 5km Park Runs which take place every Saturday at 08:00 in 11 different parks including Delta Park and Modderfontein Reserve. www.parkrun. co.za.

Joburg’s high altitude (1 700 metres) makes great, if gruelling, training for long distance runners. Join the ultramarathon crowd on Thu at 17:45 and Sun at 07:00 at the Pirates Sports & PIRATES SPORTS & RUGBY Rugby Club for a 10km or 21km road CLUB 25 Braeside St, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 5025, www. run. piratesclub.co.za.

Walking

Pack a picnic and have a leisurely stroll through the beautiful Johannesburg Botanical Gardens, which is criss-crossed by paved walkways. The pretty terraced rose gardens are the perfect resting stop.

Take a stiff climb up the Westcliff WESTCLIFF STEPS parking enSteps (210 in total) for a reward- trance on Crescent Drive, pedesing view over a sea of trees covering trian entrance cnr Wicklow Ave Joburg’s suburbs. Park on Crescent and Westcliff Dr, Westcliff.

Drive and walk through Westcliff to JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL admire the historic mansions.

GARDENS, Olifants Rd, Emmarentia. Open 06:00–18:00.

Join young and old yoga fans For the more adof all levels for a relaxing Sunventurous (and day morning 90-minute Vinyasa coordinated) Flow session in the park with yogi, try 90 minYoga Works. A kids’ class runs utes of yoga with parallel to this, making it perfect every pose performed on a SUP for the whole family.

(Stand Up Paddleboard). The SUP Yoga on the Dam class begins with a short lesson on how to stay afloat.

Hiking

Golf

Cycling

Beginners

Yoga

Sport & Outdoors

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Both take place at Johannesburg Botanical Gardens (see above).

YOGA IN THE PARK Sun at 09:00 (Thomas Bowler Street entrance), SUP YOGA Sat at at 09:30 and 11:30 (Dabulamanzi Canoe Club). www.yogaworks.co.za.

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Joburg Basics

The view from the terrace of Flames at Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville, Greenside and Braamfontein are traditionally late-night haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry.

Different provinces have different rules regulating the availability of alcohol.

BANKING AND MONEY BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www.absa.co.za), FNB – First National Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units.

VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% is levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August.

Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11.

Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones.

CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn. co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www. telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband. co.za). All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol stations and online.

RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying to get a local SIM. VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac Cappuccino Cinema ticket Daily newspaper Litre of petrol Loaf of bread Local beer (in a bar)

R25.50 R20–R25 R55 R4–R15 R11.50 R8–R11 R23–R26

NEED TO KNOW DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa. Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally. South Africa’s power supplier, Eskom, has been struggling to meet demand and occasionally implements ‘loadshedding’ (planned powercuts to release pressure on the grid). Find the loadshedding schedule at citypower.co.za.

POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC). The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament.

The current president is Jacob Zuma.

SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’.

There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (www.joburgtourism. com) and Gauteng Tourism (www.gauteng.net).

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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Joburg Basics TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception.

Although every effort is made to keep visitors safe, no city is crime-free. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and ask locals for advice.

When exploring the city use registered and accredited tour guides. See page 48 for our recommendations, and www.joburgtourism.com (tel. +27 11 703 5327) for tips and safety information.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Various services aim to ensure the safety of Joburg’s visitors and more than 4.6 million residents. These include: Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JMPD), the South African Police Service (SAPS) and the Gauteng Traffic Police. When in uniform, officers wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. You have the right to ask officers to identify themselves with their identity cards whenever they approach you.

POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services

PLACES OF WORSHIP There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa. Joburg has many places of worship and spiritual sites (see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket. com for addresses and contact numbers of various religious congregations). In suburbs like Yeoville and Hillbrow you can follow the sounds of the charismatic preachers from Nigeria and Cameroon, who set up in backyards and under makeshift tarpaulins. On weekends many public parks are commandeered by churchgoers. You will see groups of people dressed in blue-and-white, green-and-white or khaki suits, a trademark silver star identifying their allegiance to the Zion Christian Church (ZCC). Preachers worship on top of Yeoville Ridge, the highest green point in the inner city, which is believed to bring followers closer to their god.

62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

INTERNET ACCESS

More and more cafés, restaurants and accommodation establishments offer free wi-fi. Speeds are decent but can vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed things up and you’ll notice dug-up pavements as fibreoptic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card.

MILKY WAY INTERNET CAFÉ Offers public computing facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from 19:00–23:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03, The Zone @ Rosebank, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00.

MEDIA South Africa has a free press and was ranked 42nd out of 179 countries in Reporters Without Borders’ 2014 press freedom index. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV channels. Read Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), Daily Maverick (www.dailymaverick.co.za), Sunday Times (www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za) or Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co.za). For the raciest headlines, read The Daily Sun. Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM) for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9).

SABC (www.sabc.co.za) is the public broadcaster, and e.TV and eNCA (www.etv.co.za and www.enca.com) are free-to-air TV channels.

MEDICAL CARE Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock.

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST This practice offers emergency medical and dental care.

Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366.

It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7.

MAYS CHEMIST A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QNetcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, www.swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Weekends and public holidays 09:00–16:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL A level-1 trauma centre that caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27 11 480 5600. Open 24/7.

NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7.

THE SMILE FACTORY For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786.

QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and most big malls will be open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

January 1 March 21 March 25 March 28 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

POSTAGE The South African Post Office is not well regarded after a protracted recent strike, so don’t expect postcards or parcels to arrive timeously. Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo airport (Terminal A1 International Arrivals.

Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOUTH AFRICANISMS South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern and Southern Sotho, Sotho, Swati, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most South Africans speak more than one language, but city life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe. While English is the lingua franca, cultural diversity has created a South African language of its own. Handy words include: Babelas Hangover Bakkie Pick-up truck Boerewors Sausage of minced meat and spices Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994 Braai Both the act of coal-grilling meat, and the event at which it is eaten Brinjal Aubergine, eggplant Bro or Boet Brother, meaning friend Bunny chow A hollowed out loaf of bread filled with curry Car guard Someone who offers to help you park and look after the car Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European and African origin Dagga or zol Marijuana Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder Howzit How are you?

Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans) Jol To go out on the town, to party Just now or Now-now Any time in the near future, from two minutes to many hours Lanie A boss or smarty-pants Lekker Tasty or cool Monkeygland sauce A fruity, tangy meat dressing (there’s no monkey in it) Mzansi A Zulu word for South Africa Pap A stiff porridge made with maize-meal and best served with a tomato-and-onion gravy or a meat stew.

It is a South African staple ‘Plastic?’ When someone asks you this question they want to know if you want to buy a plastic bag in which to carry your shopping Robot Traffic light Sawubona A greeting in Zulu Sharp! Great!

Shisa nyama A braai, often outside a butcher shop Sho’t left A nearby stop in taxi-commuter lingo Skyf A cigarette Spaza shop An informal convenience store Tekkies/Takkies Athletic shoes Tokoloshe A mischievous evil spirit Tsotsi Someone up to no good Walkie talkie Boiled, seasoned and grilled chicken feet Yebo Yes (in Zulu) February – April 2016

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CITY CENTRE MAP

RENAMED STREETS In March 2015 a number of city streets were renamed. Street signage is still being updated. These streets are: Bree St = Lilian Ngoyi St, Jeppe St = Rahima Moosa St, Noord St = Sophie de Bruyn St, President St = Helen Joseph St, Sauer St = Pixley ka Isaka Seme St.

SANDTON MAP

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